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Diy - Popular Woodworking Plans
Diy - Popular Woodworking Plans
Router Table-Mate
Make your own router table for less than $50 by
using these woodworking drawings and techniques.
This one is easy to make and store. CLICK HERE
Garden Swing
This swing is simple to build but looks great in
your yard or on your porch CLICK HERE
Morris Chair
I don't care what they say about dogs, Morris chairs
are a man's best friend. This reproduction of a
Shop of the Crafters chair is sturdy and
comfortable, as you can learn from these free
woodworking plans.. CLICK HERE
Tansu Chest
This Japanese-style Tansu chest can be used in
several different configurations to fit your lifestyle.
No matter how you stack it, it stores a lot of items,
as we show you with this free project.. CLICK
HERE
Contemporary Shelves
It's rare that bookshelves look as interesting as the
objects you display on them. These shelves are
easy to build and knock down for storage. CLICK
HERE
Bungalow Mailbox
This project was by request. As I live in the 'burbs
and have to walk to the curb to pick up my bills, a
mailbox mounted next to my front door would be
purely decorative. CLICK HERE
Finishing it Up
For an office environment, I favor
the durability of oil-based
polyurethanes, although if I were
building this for my home, I might be
tempted by the hand-rubbed feel of
the newer gel varnishes. When your
finishing process is completed,
simply screw on four 2"-diameter
wheels (locking casters will keep it
from rolling around while you open
and shut drawers), and bolt on the
drawer pulls.
And now, the moment youve been
waiting for: Go ahead and fill those
drawers with all the stuff that usually
clutters up your desk.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1259 (8 of 9) [1/20/2004 7:50:55 PM]
Getting Started
A trip to an art or office-supply store
is the first step. Select the photo
page size you want to work with.
Some pages simply are plain sheets
that are inserted in clear plastic
sheet protectors. The protectors, in
turn, are usually punched for use in
a three-ring binder. The sheets I
used were hole punched for post
binding and hinged, meaning each
sheet was made to fold at a given
place along the edge where it would
be bound into the album.
I selected a sheet size that was 12"
x 12". Next I ordered my post
binding screws and hinge from Lee
Valley. The screws, called Chicago
Bolts in the catalog, come in
various lengths, with each length
allowing for a " adjustment. The
brass hinge comes in a 3' length
and is easily cut.
The page size and hinge gave me
dimensions I could start to work
with. The wood covers finished size
is " x 12-" square. This allows "
for the cover to overlap top and
bottom. The bound side has
1/8"overlap, leaving 3/8" for the
open side. When I cut the pieces I
made the width 12-5/8". This
allowed a table saw cut to separate
the binding strip from the cover
piece. The cover thickness was ",
which is perfect for the hinge leaf.
Lock-n-slide
The locking mechanism for the post
is a length of threaded rod with nuts,
a couple of fender washers and a
handle slipped through the column.
To make the clearance holes in the
column, measure down 1-" from
the top on the front side and make a
mark in the center of the column.
Take the column to your drill press
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1215 (3 of 7) [1/20/2004 7:51:16 PM]
Torsion-box Top
I wanted to make the top of the
stand as lightweight and strong as
possible, but still stable. To
accomplish this I used "-thick
Baltic birch plywood and built an
open-front torsion box.
Before making the box, locate the
center position on the bottom
plywood piece and mark where the
top of the post will meet the box.
Then screw two 1-" x 1-" x 5"
solid-wood blocks to the underside
of the plywood, centered and on
either side of the posts location.
Use these two mounting blocks to
attach the table to the post after you
have completed the table.
To form the box, simply assemble it
with a brad nailer, making sure to
align all the edges to keep things
square. The two tops are held flush
to the outside ends, leaving a 3"wide gap in the center to allow
plenty of room for a circular saw or
jigsaw blade. The space in the
valley ends up at a 2-" depth,
which should allow clearance for
almost any jigsaw blade and lots of
room for the blade of a circular saw.
With the table frame complete, nail
" x 2" x 4-" backs into the spaces
at the rear of the box, closing up the
opening. The hardwood fence is
next. Drill four clearance holes and
screw the fence to the back of the
box, screwing into the backs.
To avoid any concern of binding a
saw blade during the first few uses,
cut a notch in the fence 1" wide and
as deep as the blade depth youre
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case.
Finishing
On the knobs, top and all the inside
pieces (except the Masonite), I
wiped on a light honey-colored stain.
Then I painted the case a dark red
and added a topcoat of lacquer to
protect the paint. Hang the doors,
nail in the back and add the knobs.
The hinges I used to hang the doors
are available at Woodworker's
Supply. The maple knobs I used are
available at Horton Brasses.
I have no idea how the Shakers
would feel about seeing one of their
cabinets filled with Parcheesi,
Connect Four and Uncle Wiggly
games. But Im sure at least they
would approve of the efficient use of
space. PW
Troy Sexton is a contributing editor for Popular
Woodworking.
Two Triangles
I was able to get all the necessary
parts (except the back) out of a 4' x
4' piece of cherry plywood. Start
construction by ripping two 12"wide pieces from the sheet of
plywood, then crosscut the pieces to
38" long. Next, strike a pencil line
from one corner, 12" from what will
be the back edge, and connect it to
a point on the opposite corner, 1"
from the same back edge. Mark
both pieces, making sure you have
left- and right-facing pieces.
Head to the band saw with the two
pieces and cut along the pencil line,
leaving about an 1/8" wide of the
line. Then take the two pieces to the
jointer and trim the angled edge
straight and fairly close (1/16") to
the line. To make the two pieces
identical, clamp them together,
flushing up the back and top edges.
Using a sharp bench plane I made a
few passes on the angled edge to
even up the pieces.
Router Table-Mate
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1108 (1 of 8) [1/20/2004 7:51:45 PM]
Tabletop Inserts
Make the round tabletop inserts
from 1/8" acrylic. I made three
inserts to cover most of the router bit
sizes Id encounter. First set the
circle jig to cut a circle that is the
same size as the insert hole. Set
your router to make an outside cut
instead of an inside cut. To rout the
acrylic, just drill a hole to
accommodate the circle-cutting jigs
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1108 (4 of 8) [1/20/2004 7:51:45 PM]
pin or nail.
The three hole sizes I made in the
inserts were 1", 1-" and 2-". The
smaller holes were drilled using hole
saws but the larger size required the
circle-cutting jig.
Plywood Boxes
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1092 (3 of 7) [1/20/2004 7:51:54 PM]
Many Mouldings
There are five types of moulding:
The crown mould. Buy it pre-made
from a hardwood supplier. The "
cap on top of the crown mould. This
is simply square stock with a 3/8"
roundover cut on one edge. The
waist mould. This covers the seams
between the upper and lower units.
You can buy stuff like this off the
rack, or you can make it. First cut
your stock to size. Then use a
beading bit to cut the center bead.
Then use a " cove cutter in your
router to cut the coves on the top
and bottom. Be wary that as you
make the second cove cut the
moulding wont be as steady. The
base mould. This is flat stock with a
" cove cut on one edge. Shelf
moulding. This goes on the front
edge of the plywood shelves (which
youll make later). I used a rail and
stile bit to make this mould in two
passes. You also could use a
Roman ogee bit and get the same
effect. Cut a shallow rabbet on the
back as shown in the photo at right.
Hand sand all your moulding before
applying it. Attach the moulding with
glue and nails. Start from the center
and work out. One word about the
waist mould. Position it so it sticks
up " above the lower case (see
Doors
Build the doors the same way you
built the face frames with one
exception. Youll need to cut a 3/8" x
3/8" groove on the rails and stiles for
the solid wood panel. That also
means youll need to cut haunches
on your tenons to fit into the
grooves.
With raised panels I allow a 1/8" gap
on each side so the panel can
expand and contract in the groove.
To raise the panel, first cut the
approximate angle on the panels
edge using your table saw. Then
use an 8-degree raised panel cutter
in your router to raise the panel.
This way youll only need to make
one pass on your router table. Sand
the panel, assemble the doors, then
sand the rest of the door. Peg the
tenons, cut the pegs 1/16" proud
and sand them smooth but not flush
to the doors.
Attach the pulls and fit your doors so
theres a 1/16" gap all around. I use
Amerock adjustable non-mortise
hinges. These hinges are pricey
(about $3 each) but they are worth
every penny because they are
simple to install and are adjustable.
See the Supplies box at the end of
the story for details.
Finishing
I used a clear finish on this piece,
sanding between coats with 3M
sanding sponges (fine grit). Nothing
gets into moulding and raised
panels better. When everythings
dry, nail your back pieces in place
and hang your doors. PW
Troy Sexton is contributing editor for Popular
Woodworking.
Garden Swing
Seat Frame
Once back in the shop, start
construction by cutting the seat rails
and stringers from the 2x4s. As you
probably know, dimensional lumber
comes with rounded edges. Youll
need to get rid of them. Cut the
pieces for the rails and stringers to
their 3" thickness by first running
one edge over the jointer until they
have a square edge, then rip them
to 3" wide. To give the seat a
comfortable back angle, set your
saw blade to an 7-degree bevel and
run the back rail on edge to give a 7-
that later.
Morris Chair
A faithful reproduction of a
classic.
I don't care what they say about
dogs, Morris chairs are a man's best
friend. The reclining back, wide
arms and expansive seat create the
perfect place to watch TV, read the
Sunday paper or simply contemplate
the finer qualities of a well-crafted
beer.
For the last 10 years, I've spent
every weekend planted in the
original version of this chair, which
was built by the Shop of the Crafters
in Cincinnati, Ohio, during the
heyday of the Arts & Crafts
movement. The Shop of the Crafters
was founded by German-American
businessman Oscar Onken (18581948), who ran a successful framing
company until he entered the
furniture business in 1902,
according to Kenneth R. Trapp's
history of the company.
Unlike many furniture-makers of the
day, Onken didn't want to merely
copy the Stickleys of the world.
Onken produced an unusual line of
Arts & Crafts furniture that was
influenced more by German and
Hungarian designs than the straightlined Stickley pieces of the day. In
all honesty, a few of Onken's pieces
were kind of ugly. Most, however,
had a refinement and lightness that
rivaled some of the best work of the
day.
This Morris chair is an almost exact
replica of the one produced by
Onken and his company. It differs in
only two ways. One, the original
chair was constructed using dowels
at the major joints. After almost 100
years of use, the front and back rail
came loose. This chair is built using
Mortises: Machine or No
Machine?
First cut all your pieces to size
according to the Schedule of
Materials and begin laying out the
locations of your mortises. The rule
Assembly
Now you're almost ready to
assemble the chair frame. You'll
need to first miter the tenons slightly
where they meet to fit in the
mortises using your table saw. Now
finish sand everything. I went to 150
grit using my random-orbit sander
and hand sanded the whole piece
with 180 grit. Yes, it makes a
noticeable difference.
Now glue the front rail between the
front legs and the back rail between
the back legs. Clamp and allow your
glue to dry. Use 1/4" dowels to pin
the tenons from the inside of the
chair. This strengthens the weakest
point of this chair. It's at this joint
where the original chair came loose.
Glue the side rails between the front
and back legs and you can see your
chair take shape.
Finishing
This takes some effort, but it is well
worth it. The first step is to dye the
chair with an alcohol-based aniline
dye that's reddish. See the supplies
list for ordering information. Then
apply one coat of boiled linseed oil
to the chair. You can get this at any
home center store. Wipe off the
excess and let it dry overnight. The
linseed oil helps seal the wood
before your final coloring step and
Tansu Chest
Contemporary Shelves
Replaceable Center
Now cut the hole for the 4" x 4"
replaceable insert. First locate and
mark the position centered on your
table, then mark in from that line by
3/8" to locate your cutting line. Drill
clearance holes in two corners of
the square, then use a jigsaw to cut
out the center piece. Next,
determine the thickness of the
material you will use for your insert
(the 3/8"-thick Baltic Birch we used
is actually metric and shy of 3/8")
and set a 3/8" piloted rabbeting bit in
a router to a height to hold the insert
flush to the top surface of the table.
While your jigsaw is still out, locate,
mark and cut out the notch in the
back of the table. This allows the
table to move closer to the drill
press' post and tilt without
interference.
As a final friendly touch on the table,
I used a 3/8" roundover bit in my
router to soften all the edges on the
table, both top and bottom. You'll
get fewer splinters if you do this.
Finishing Touches
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1050 (5 of 7) [1/20/2004 7:52:22 PM]
Bungalow Mailbox
1/8"
5/16"
1/8"
SUPPLIES
1/2"
15 1/2"
3/4"
22"
3/4"
14"
1/4"
21 1/2"
1/4"
3/4"
1/4"
4"
1/4"
12 1/2"
4"
Drawer slide
20"
20 1/2" 22"
10"
20"
File hanger rail see detail above
3/4"
Horizontal section
Profile section
15 1/2"
3/4"
1/8"
22"
1/8"
13 3/4"
3/4"
1/4"
21 1/2"
1/4"
3/4"
1/8"
1/4"
2 1/8"
4 1/4"
1/8"
2 1/8"
4 1/4"
1/8"
2 1/8"
21 1/2" 22"
3"
11 1/2"
1/8"
1/4"
3/4"
Elevation
Profile
ITEM
DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L
M AT E R I A L
CABINET*
2
2
1
12
Sides
Top & bottom
Back
Edge trim
211 2
211 2
14
Bottoms
Upper sides
Upper frts/bks
Lower sides
Lower frt & bk
Upper false frts
Lower false frt
Hanging rails
121 2
4
4
10
10
41 4
111 2
16
211 2
14
201 2
24
Birch ply
Birch ply
Birch ply
Cherry
191 2
20
121 2
20
121 2
133 4
133 4
20
Birch ply
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Birch ply
Birch ply
Cherry
D R AW E R S
3
4
4
2
2
2
1
2
SOURCES
11 1/2"
12 1/2"
1"
3/16"r.
2 9/16"
CL
Exploded view
1/4"
typ.
3/4"
24"
12"
101/2"
3
2" 3 /4"
1 3/4"
1 1/4"
5"
20"
1 1/2"
3"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
5/16"
5/16"
20"
16"
10 3/4"
3 1/2"
16"
12 1/4"
3 1/2"
2"
CUT-OFF STAND
N O . L E T.
4
1
4
2
1
2
6
4
1
1
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
ITEM
Column sides
Post
Feet
Mounting blocks
Bottom
Tops
Dividers
Backs
Fence
Roller block
DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L
3
11 2
3
11 4
1
11 8
3
3
31 2
13 4
12
12
2
2
33 4
2
2"
20
20
16
5
24
10 1 2
12
41 2
24
91 2
M AT E R I A L
Hardwood
Hardwood
Hardwood
Hardwood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Hardwood
Hardwood
H A R D WA R E
NO. ITEM
1
1
4
1
2
2
2
2
1
1
4
2
4
2
4
ITEM
DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L
3
Top pieces
Table pieces
Legs
Stretchers
Corbels
4
11 2
3
4
3
4
55 16
5
11 2
21 2
7
141 2
10
293 4
18
9
M AT E R I A L
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
14 1/2"
10"
1"
#10 biscuits
R 7"
/4"
01
R1
31
/4"
#10 biscuits
1/2"
5"
5 5/16"
1"
29 3/4"
7 3/4"
7/8"
1/8"
1/4"
2"
1 1/2"
Outline of stretcher
Outline of top
1/2"
3/8"
dowel
3/4"
3/4"
1/8"
chamfer
3/8"dowel
Reverse orientation of
cutout on second stretcher
9"
1/2"
3/4"
"
2 1/2"
1 1/2"
R1
1/4"
Outline of leg
1/8"
1/4"
1 3/4"
2"
1/4"
18"
SUPPLIES
Popular Woodworking readers
can order this 12" antique globe
for $70 (a 10 percent discount)
plus shipping (and sales tax if
you live in Ohio).
Contact:
The Map Store
5821 Karric Square Drive
Dublin, OH 43017
614-792-6277
Face Frame
2
1
1
Doors
4
6
4
Carcase
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
5
10
1
L E T.
ITEM
SUPPLIES
DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L
A
B
C
Stiles
Top rail*
Bottom rail*
D
E
F
Stiles
Rails*
Panels
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Top
Sides
Bottom
Dividers
Nailing strip
Blocking 1
Blocking 2
Adj. shelves
Masonite shelves
Back
M AT E R I A L
21 2
2
51 2
511 4
45
45
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
21 2
21 2
17
433 4
181 2
185 8
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
19
171 4
163 4
161 4
11 2
21 4
13 4
161 4
161 4
47
50
511 4
47
451 2
461 2
451 2
451 2
225 8
201 4
511 4
Maple
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
Poplar
Masonite
Ply
Woodworkers Supply
800-645-9292
L
M
B
A
H
48"
2 1/2"
2 1/2"
16 1/2"
B
F
2 1/2"
43 3/4"
E
18 1/8"
2 1/2"
51 1/4"
18 1/8"
2 1/2"
2"
2 1/2"
3"
C
3" 1"
1/2"
19"
17 1/4"
16 1/4"
47"
L
M
Outline of top
22 7/8"
19 7/8"
K
M
H
51 1/4"
P
O
N
3"
5"
3" 1"
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
Sides
Shelf
Cleats
Kick
Door
Back
Top
Dimensions T W L
3
3
3
3
3
1
3
4"
4"
4"
4"
4"
4"
8"
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
12" x 38"
10" x 11"
3" x 11"
11" x 7"
11" x 22"
113 4" x 255 8"
11" x 12"
Material
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Acrylic
ply
ply
ply
ply
ply
ply
#6-32 x 1/2"
flat head screw
Brass threaded
insert
1/8"
1/2"
Plexiglas insert
1/4"
3/4"
Router base
attached to
underside of top
3/4"
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
2
2
2
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
Dimensions T W L
3
Table top
4" x 23" x 35"
3
1
Top edge banding
4" x 1 2" x 11'
Workmate board 3 4" x 4" x 273 8"
3
3
Prop stick
4" x 18 4"
1
Prop bracket
2" x 112" x 4"
1
Fence bottom
2" x 8" x 41"
Fence sub fronts 1 2" x 3" x 121 2"
Dust chute sides 1 2" x 41 8" x 8"
1
Dust chute top
2" x 4" x 5"
Chute angled top 1 2" x 5" x 43 4"
1
Chute back
2" x 5" x 5"
1
5
End ribs
2" x 2 8" x 3"
1
5
5
Mid ribs
2" x 2 8" x 2 8"
Fence adjust. front 3 4" x 4" x 16"
Material
CL
4"
birch ply
solid birch
any hardwood
dowel stock
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
Baltic birch
any hardwood
CL
CL
5
1 /8"
4"
H
M
G
L
F
5"
1/2"
1/2"
x 1/8"
dado
13"
5"
8 5/8"
3"
3" radius
6"
1/2"
1/2"
1/2"
4"
1/8"
1/2"
1/2"
1/2"
6"
41"
8"
2" 2 3/8"
3/8"
1/2" x 3/8"
rabbet leaves
1/8" overhang
on fence sub
fronts "G"
1/2"
8 5/8"
3 1/4" 4 3/8"
5" 4"
5
1/2"
5 1/2"
1/2"
4"
41"
5 1/2"
5 1/2"
1/2"
6"
1/8"
25
2 1/2" 3"
6"
3/8"
2 1/2" 3"
1/2"
1/2"
3"
5"
8 5/8"
1/2"
1/8"
Columns
Back
Mat.
P
P
P
Ply
Ply
Ply
Ply
P
P
Mat.
P
P
P
P
Ply
Ply
Ply
Ply
P
P
P
P
Ply
Ply
P
Ply
1" x 3" x 30"
P
1
1
1
4" x 39 2" x 26 4" Ply
Columns
Back
Mat.
40 1/2"
39"
3/4"
Case dimensions
24"
21 1/2"
3/4"
3/4"
1/2"
1/8" of frame
extends into groove
in side of large
case
12 3/4"
31"
4 3/4"
2 1/2"
3 1/8"
3/4"
18"
3/4"
3 1/4"
19"
2 1/2"
19"
2 1/2"
1/4"
x 3/4"
rabbet
3/8"
1/2"
radius
Upper case
top
31"
4 3/4"
2 1/2"
Stock crown
moulding
3/4"
Upper case
side
3 1/4"
1/4"
x 3/4"
dado
1/4"
x 3/4"
rabbet in
sides
Upper case
bottom
44 1/2"
1/2"
3/8"
1/8"
1/2"
1/8"
50"
Waist
moulding
bead
3/8"
1/4"
radius
1/4"
Bottom set
into 1/4" x 3/4"
dado in sides
3/4"
2 1/2"
1 1/2"
1/4"
Lower case
bottom
1/2"
2 1/2"
3/4"
4"
10 1/2"
2 1/2" 2 1/2"
31"
4"
3/4"
40 1/2"
2 1/2"
1 3/4"
14"
19"
24"
3 1/2"
3/4"
4 1/4"
Base moulding
2 1/2"
1 3/4"
Lower
case
side
3/4"
1 1/2"
5 1/8"
23 1/2"
90
7"
26" 20 7/8"
A
7 degree angle
on A, B, & E
5/8"
1 A
2 B
1 C
11 D
2 E
4 F
21 G
2 H
2
I
2
J
2 K
2 L
2 M
2 N
19
3"
I
13
17"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
5 3/8"
55
2 1/2"
3/4"
1/4"-20
hardware
M
I
17"
1/2"
5/
3"
20"
60"
L
J
1 1/2"
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Cedar
Table back
2 1/2"
CL
E
F
Material
Dimensions T W L
11 2" x 5" x 55"
11 2" x 21 2" x 207 8"
11 2" x 8" x 60"
5
1
1
8" x 2 2" x 20 2"*
11 2" x 3" x 60"
11 2" x 3" x 17"
5
1
8" x 2 2" x 20"
11 4" x 3" x 231 2"
11 2" x 4" x 12"**
3
1
7
4" x 1 2" x 19 8"
1" x 11 4" x 61 2"
1" x 11 4" x 81 4"
5
1
8" x 1 4" x13"**
1 1/2"
17"
1 1/2"
Schedule of Materials:
Swing A-Frame
No. Item
4
1
2
2
4
4
2
4
4
8
4
Dim.T W L
Material
Frame legs
4 x 4 x 96" PTP
Top center rail 4 x 4 x 96" PTP
Top outer rails 2 x 4 x 96" PTP
Leg supports
2 x 6 x 48" PTP
Swing-N-Slide EZ Frame Braces
Swing-N-Slide Leg top braces
3
8" x 6" eye bolts
3
8" flat washers
3
8" nuts
S- connectors
6-foot lengths of chain
x 1/2"
notches
cut into legs
CL
35 1/4"
7 5/8"
1 7/8"
7 1/2"
10 3/8"
3/4"
radius
1 7/8"
9 1/2"
6"
3/4"
22 1/8"
8
8 1/8"
6 1/8"
3/8"
1/4"
28 1/4"
4 3/4"
1/4"
Profile
22 1/2"
1 5/8"
3 1/8"
2 1/2"
1 7/8"
2 3/4"
3 1/8"
2 1/2"
1 7/8"
2 3/4"
3 1/8"
2 1/2" 23 1/2"
1 7/8"
2 3/4"
3 1/8"
2 1/2"
1 7/8"
2 3/4"
3 1/8"
2 1/2"
3 1/4"
1 5/8"
6"
1 7/8"
CL
8"
1 5/8"
1"
7/8"
5/8"
7/8"
2 1/2"
1 7/8"
5/8"
2"
7 3/4"
1/16"
overhang
1"
4"
1/8"
2 1/2"
5 1/2"
1 3/16"
See rail locations for
info on the rails.
22 1/8"
1 1/8"
4 3/4"
7/8"
1 3/4"
1
radius
1 3/8"
2 3/8"
4 1/2"
Elevation
20 1/2"
3 3/4"
1 1/2"
7/8"
6 1/4"
3/8"
3/4"
3 3/4"
Back Rod
MORRIS CHAIR
NO.
ITEM
Chair frame
2
Front legs
2
Back legs
2
Applied sides
1
Front rail
2
Side rails
1
Back rail
2
Side slats
2
Arm bldps
2
Arms
2
Cleats
1
Back rod
Drop-in seat
2
Seat stiles
5
Seat rails
Adjustable back
2
Back stiles
5
Back rails
1
Bottom rail
DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L
15 8
15 8
15 8
3
NOTES
33 4
21 4
13 16
43 4
43 4
43 4
75 8
6
6
17 8
2
21
21
4
22
24
22
113 8
41 2
351 4
201 2
235 16
21 2
21 2
231 2
17
17 8
17 8
31 4
281 4
171 2
171 2
2" TOE
2" TOE
4" TBE
4" TBE
4" TBE
2" TBE
4" TBE
4" TBE
4" TBE
SUPPLIES
Slotted Piano Hinge
Rockler: 800-279-4441 or
rockler.com
J.E. Mosers Golden Amber Maple
water-based aniline dye
Woodworkers Supply:
800-645-9292 or woodworker.com
Lilly Professional Glaze, choose the
color warm brown
Woodfinishingsupplies.com:
507-280-6515 or
woodfinishingsupplies.com
7/8"
1/4"
1 3/8"
5/8"
3/4"
1 3/8"
7 1/2"
7/8"
2 1/4"
1 5/8"
1"
7/8"
1/16"
1 1/16"
3/4"
4 3/4"
1 7/8"
Back
rail
Cleat
Back rail
3/8"
7/8"
3/8"
Leg
1 1/4"
1/16"
7/16"
2 1/8"
Cleats
4 3/4"
Side rail
Leg
1
1/2"
3/4"
3/8"
5/8"
2"
Arm
2 3/16"
3 3/4"
Rail Locations
Front rail
1/16"
Front
rail
7/8"
Cleat
2
4
2
1
4
4
2
2
2
4
4
1
3
1/4"
1/2"
1"
3/4"
Upper Cabinet
No. Item
1/2" 1/2"
3/4"
1/4"
2"
1/2"
1/2"
1"
1"
10" 13"
17"14"
1"
1/2"
1/2"
22 5/8"
2"
22 5/8"
3/4"
Dimensions T W L
2"
2
4
2
1
2
4
8
4
6
2
2
4
Material
x 17" x 51"
1" x 2" x 16"
3
4" x 15" x 16"
3
4" x 16" x 47"
3
4" x 2" x 16"
3
4" x 2" x 21"
3
4" x 1" x 21"
1
11
4" x 7 16" x 21"
1
11
4" x 4 16" x 21"
1
4" x 1" x 7"
1
1
4" x 4" x 46"
3
4" x 13" x 16"
3
3
4" x 4" x 13"
Ply
M
Ply
Ply
M
M
M
Ply
Ply
M
M
Ply
M
Dimensions T W L
Material
4"
4"
x 13" x 31"
1" x 2" x 11"
3
4" x 11" x 11"
3
4" x 11" x 27"
3
1
4" x 10 2" x 11"
3
4" x 4" x 8"
1
1
2" x 4" x 10 8"
1
1
2" x 4" x 7 2"
1
1
3
4" x 7 2" x 9 4"
3
4" x 3" x 8"
1
1
2" x 3" x 10 8"
1
1
2" x 3" x 7 2"
Ply
M
Ply
Ply
Ply
M
Ply
Ply
Ply
M
Ply
Ply
1"
1/2"
51"
Plan
31"
1/2"
3/4"
2"
8"
3/4"
8 1/2"
8"
2"
1/2"
13"
10"
1"
1/2"
3/4"
1"
1/2"
3/4"
3"
12 1/2"
4"
4"3
11"
/4"
12 1/2"
3/4"
2"
7"
4" 1"
1/2"
2"
Elevation
20"
2"
51"
10"
20"
1" 4"
2"
1"
4"
2"
1/2"
17 1/2"
16"
3/4"
1/2"
1"
14"
17"
Profile
1"
1/2"
17 1/2"
4"
1 1/4"
4"
1 1/4"
17 7/16"
17 7/16"
1 1/4"
1 1/4"
17 7/16"
17 7/16"
84"
84"
1 1/4"
1 1/4"
17 7/16"
17 7/16"
1 1/4"
1 1/4"
17 7/16"
17 7/16"
1 1/4"
4"
1 1/4"
4"
1 5/8"
1 1/2"
16"
1 1/2"
16"
1 1/2"
16"
1/4"
1 1/2"
10 1/8"
3/4"
12"
7/8"
54"
Elevation
Profile
5/8"
Plywood shelf
lamination
Solid
maple
3/8"
1 1/4"
5/8"
31
Plywood
Solid
side
maple
lamination
3/4"
1 1/2"
3/4"
27
3/8"
3/8"
3/4"
3/8"
3/4"
Dimensions T W L
Material
3
1
4 Sides
4" x 11 4" x 84"
Plywood
3
4 Sides
4" x 11" x 84"
Plywood
3
1
10 Outr. shelf tops
4" x 10 8" x 16"
Plywood
1
1
10 Outr. shelf bottoms
2" x 10 8" x 16"
Plywood
3
3
5 Cntr. shelf tops
4" x 10 8" x 16"
Plywood
1
3
5 Cntr. shelf bottoms
2" x 10 8" x 16"
Plywood
1
1
2 Backs
4" x 17 2" x 76"
Plywood
3
3 Aprons
4" x 4" x 16"
Plywood
3
1
4 Side edging
4" x 1 2" x 84"
Maple
3
1
15 Shelf edging
4" x 1 4" x 16"
Maple
Supplies: Woodworkers Supply (800-645-9292), 12 6" taper
connectors, # 928273 $4.95/pkg. of four. 18 wire shelf supports, # 826028,
$1.45 apiece for 10+.
1"
3"
1/4"
Material
Plywood
Hardwood
Plywood
Hardwood
Hardwood
Hardwood
Plywood
1"
1/2"
1/4"
1"
1/2"
hole
Hole locations
2"
1/8"
F
1/8"
2 1/2"
1 3/4"
1/8"
1/8"
3/4"
C
11/16"
1/4"
1 1/4"
3"
B
E
T-slot track
C
A
G
See detail above
#4 x 3/8" screws
3/8"
3 1/2" 4 1/2"
3/8"
1/4"
1/2"
3/8"
Plan
6"
7 3/4"
1/2"
3/8"
13"
10
1/2"
1/8"
1/4"
1/8"
1/2"
3/8"
6"
7 3/4"
1/2"
3/8"
Elevation