Camera Stabilizer Plans An instructional manual on how to build a full stabilizer rig by Cody DeeganTable of Contents Tools Needed 5 Introduction 6 Building the Sled 8 Building the Arm 31 Building the Front-Mount Vest 48 Setting up the Stabilizer 59 Extension Spring Chart 60 How to Balance 6r Checking Z-axis tilt 65 Checking X-axis tilt 66 Building a Low-Angle Bracket 67 Building a Balancing Stand 71 Safety Tips 73 Building the Back-Mount Vest 77CII Da aa | Tools Needed Ruler with measurements in 16ths Flexible measuring tape Power hand drill Drill press* Drill press vise* Chop saw* 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2” wrenches and/or sockets allen wrenches Phillips screwdriver Centerpunch Metal file 55/64”, 27/32”, 1/2”, 5/16”, 1/4”, 3/16” drill bits 10-24 tap and matching #25 drill bit 1/4-20 tap and matching #7 drill bit 5/16-18 tap and matching 17/64” drill bit 3/8-16 tap T-handle tap wrenches 1/2” rotary file 2” x 1” 60 grit flap wheel bubble level hammer pencil C-clamps Rattail file 45-45-90 triangle Dremel tool (optional) * Alocal maul sp ean do all tb euting and ding, a well asthe 2 welds sd. Measure eve ing ot beforehand and mark ial leary, The es work sop has do,INTRODUCTION The camera stabilizer represented in these plans has been designed solely for the purpose of achieving a simple, durable, yet economical construction coupled with extreme functionality. A Canon XL-1 was used to test the rig, and performance was exceptional. Given the weight of the camera fully loaded was about 8 pounds, anyone using this design for other cameras will need to be aware that different springs will be needed — there is no spring-tension adjustment on the arm. Instructions for proper setup of differing camera/monitor/battery combinations are included. The stage can be fine tuned left —right and forward — back. The sled telescopes from 22 inches to 40 inches. The gimbal assembly utilizes six bearings for fluidity, can be fine-tuned for balance requirements, and can be 6 Camera Stabilizer Plans adjusted easily up and down the main shaft of the sled. The vest allows for adjustments in size, but the builder may need to alter the design to suit the operator’s unique build and stature. The rig is constructed almost entirely in aluminum to assure a durable and somewhat light-weight setup, but be aware that building this stabilizer is a labor-intensive project. Having a metal shop cut all the aluminum and drill all the holes is convenient, but expensive. The majority of the materials can be found at a hardware store. A few items may need to be ordered. The plans include a list of all materials needed and step-by- step instructions on how to construct the stabilizer, with clear, concise illustrations throughout.= a PADDED EEDA NOTES The Manfrotto 679 monopod can be found at many online camera shops. It is also referred to as a Bogen 3016. Metal fabrication, welding, and machine shops should have aluminum, The stabilizer represented in these plans was built with 5000 and 6000 series aluminum. For the main gimbal bearing, there are many online shops if one cannot be found locally. There is no high-speed movement involved with a stabilizer so almost any bearing will work (Obviously bearings can be extremely varied and an actual Steadicam rig would require tight tolerances on its bearings, but that subject is beyond the scope of this manual), Skateboard bearings are easily found in any skate shop. ABEC 3 or 5 are preferable. Flanged bearings are more expensive but are much easier to work with. Keep in mind this manual deals with the use of skate bearings. Cork/rubber gasket material and weatherstrip adhesive can be found at an automotive supply store. 1050 Denier Cordura can be difficult to locate and expensive. Please note that virtually any medium to heavy-weight fabric will work fine. Foam padding can be found at fabric stores and is easily cut with scissors or a knife. Most of the sewing can be done with a sewing machine, but expect to do some by hand as well. All nuts and bolts are coarse thread — not fine. They are considered a UNC type. Stop nuts are also called lock nuts with nylon inserts. If holes are not lining up precisely when assembling, hold the pieces together and use a power hand drill to run a bit through the parts in question. Please ensure everything is tightened down securely before use. Camera Stabilizer Plans can assume no responsibility for damage to equipment due to poor craftsmanship or misuse. Camera Stabilizer Plans 7Building the Sled k Quantity qd) qd) qd) qd) a (2) (3) (3) (a a) Q) a) (2) a) 8 Camera Stab Size Manfrotto 679 us” x 13” x 13” ua” x 1 12” x 10” 18” x 1” x 30” wa” x 212” rx 1” ie” x 1” op x 2:12” ine” x 3/4” x 25 1/8" 1 us” x 2 12” x 58” 5/16” ID X 7/8” OD 10-24 x 1/2” 10-24 x 1/2” 10-24 10-24 14-20 X 5” 4-20 x 1” 4-20 X 3/4” a” 14-20 14-20 14-20. 4” 5/16-18 X 2 1/2” 5/16-18 X 1 12” 516-18 sil6-18 3a” x 8” ID 134” x 6 34” small tube individual P ier Plans Description three-section monopod flat aluminum: flat aluminum aluminum angle aluminum pipe aluminum pipe (optional) aluminum square tube pan ball bearing skateboard wheel bearings socket head set screw machine screws washers hex nuts hex bolts hex bolt allen socket screws washers wing nuts nuts set screws (allen) hex bolt (full thread) hex bolts stop nut hex nuts galvanized bushing 90-degree EMT elbow (std rad) cork/rubber gasket material 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive bubble levels shaft collar (optional) PAP AP RAPP HRAWVU TA ea aaa aaa The base, camera plate, battery plates, x-axis plate, and z-axis plate can all be cut from the 1/8” x 13” x 13” flat aluminum. Carefully measure and layout all cut lines. Allow at least 1/16” space for each cut.LY = 5/16" hole @> = Whole 12" }—}— base ‘The shape of the base is not necessary - I had originally modeled my design after the Glidecam and later realized the shape serves no purpose. 10. Camera Stabler Planety = 3/16" hole 4@-=1/4 hole After all the pieces are cut out, ensure all edges are smoothed down. Layout measurements for the holes and the slots as shown. Use a centerpunch to mark the center of each hole. It is recommended to have a metal shop cut the long, rectangular slots. A less efficient method would be to drill two adjacent holes at the start of each slot to allow a reciprocating saw blade access. Use a dremel tool after the cuts to smooth out the slot. Camera Stabilizer Plans 11+ cur” 5 Li <— cut 5” { <— cut = pole A pole B pole G 9 discard > @ Dismantle the monopod completely. Cut a 5” section fron Pole A - this will be the gimbal slide. Cut a 2” section from Pole B - this will be a reducer for the gimbal handle. Remove the top stoppers from Pole B and Pole C.-_ A = BUVG GET Polle B needs to be welded to the center of the x-axis plate. Palle C needs to be welded to the center of the base plate. Leave these xt 5/16" @® =v" hte \ a ti Pole B Pole C Aer dling shrough. widen these holes 1/2" From the 1/16” x 3/4” x 25 1/8” aluminum square tube, cut two 12 1/2” pieces. Drill two 3/16” holes in each as shown above using the holes in the base as a guide. Widen one side to 1/2”. Insert four 10-24 x 1/2” screws with washers into the wid- ened holes using a magnetized screwdriver, Attach to the sled base with four 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 13Cut a slit on three sides of the gimbal slide about an inch long (a jigsaw works well for this). The main bearing needs to fit into the 2 1/2” ID x 1” aluminum pipe. Use a 60-grit flap wheel mounted to a hand drill to sand down the inside of the pipe until the bearing fits snugly inside. Let the pipe cool down after sanding before trying to insert the bearing. If not, the aluminum will contract and the bearing will be extremely difficult to remove. 1M Camera Stabilier Plans PRO AUAEAHAHRHAHHMA HPP RPP RRRLay the bearing on a smooth, hard surface. Position the slitted-end of the slide into the bearing. Rest a block of wood on top of the tube and gently pound with a ham- mer until the slide is completely inserted (fig. 1). Using a rotary file attached to a hand drill, file down the raised guides in- side the tube at the bearing end (fig.2). File about an inch down the length of the guides to allow the tube to slide freely on the | main shaft. Use a right angle to ensure the slide is perpendicular to the bearing (fig.3). Use the hammer to adjust the slide if needed. Next, insert the bearing (with slide at- tached) into the aluminum pipe collar. If the bearing will not go in, take a larger pipe and place it onto the bearing. Using the block of wood, gently hammer the bearing into the collar. Camera Stabilizer Plans 15, VETAttach the fastener to the end of the tube. _ Slide the gimbal assembly onto Pole B. | Ff Put a fastener on Pole C and then insert Pole C into Pole B. Attach the fastener to the end of Polls B. POOR OPTRA nnnnnanAaA aaaAUT With the sled flat on the floor, tape a pencil securely to a door frame at gimbal height. Use a level against the main shaft to assure it is perfectly vertical. Wedge washers underneath the base to adjust if nec- essary. Set the middle of the collar against the pencil and slowly rotate the bearing until a line has been drawn completely around the collar. Remove the bearing from the collar. Using a cloth measuring tape, VERY CAREFULLY mark out two points equal distance from each other along the pencil line (one method is to measure completely around the collar and then divide by two). Choose a mark, - measure out 1/4” on both sides of it, and plot two more points. Secure the collar in a vise and mark all four points with a centerpunch. Drill the three grouped points with a 5/16” drill bit, and the point on the opposite side with a 17/64” drill bit. Thread the 17/64” hole with a 5/16-18 tap. Camera Stabilizer Plane 17At the points where the three holes intersect, the drill bit can be used again to remove the tips of metal. A dremel tool will easily smooth out the slot. w/6t" Layout four marks equidistant from each other on the pencil line (measure around the — *. pipe and divide the measurement by four). A 17/64” hole that was just drilled should lay halfway between two of the marks. Centerpunch and drill with a #7 bit. Thread all four holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Cut a 1/8” x 5/8” x 1” piece of aluminum angle and set it on the collar overlapping the slot. Use a pencil to mark the slot opening onto the angle piece. Ce SS Also mark where the inside edge of the collar meets the angle. HUAAKTHARAHHAPRAnaneaneaa ee. 18 Camera Stabler Planscur The idea here is to place a 17/64” hole * in the angle bracket that lines up with the slot in the collar, and also to place a #25 hole in the bracket that will allow a set screw to pass through and rest against the inside of the collar. Remove the excess metal from the top of the angle piece with a grinder. 8 Set the angle piece in a vise with the slot marks facing up and mount to the drill press. Use the pencil marks as a guide to line up a 17/64” drill bit in the center of the angle bracket. Drill the hole and then thread it with a 5/16-18 tap. 17164" dil bit Adjust the aluminum angle in the vise so the other side is facing up. Use the pencil mark to line up a #25 drill bit in the center of the angle. Drill the hole and thread with a 10-24 tap. 25 drill bit Aaa Camera Stabilizer Plans 19Reinsert the bearing into the collar, then screw in four 1/4-20 x 1/4” set screws to hold the bearing in place. 35/16” From the 1/4” x 1 1/2” x 10” flat aluminum, aes layout measurements and cut the metal into (mssiewsifrss) three pieces. Grind all the edges smooth. 33/8" | =i (opace allowed for cut) Bua” 35/16" If you are using a chop saw to cut the metal, you can use the side of the saw blade as a grinder to smooth out the edges after a cut. 20° Camers Stabilier Plane ARARARARAARATDTHAHRRARKAnnnannannaee.Weld the three pieces together into a U-shape. Maintain a 3 3/8” distance. between the vertical pieces. the lead. To accurately find the center point for the 17/64” hole, tape a bubble level LENGTHWISE on top of the U-joint, hold a pencil vertically with the tip up and balance the U-joint on 3378" WELD WELD Measure and mark the location for a 27/32” hole on one of the vertical pieces. Set the entire U- joint on the edge of a table to centerpunch the mark. r= Adjust the U-joint on the pencil until it is bal- anced. Mark the balancing point. Reposition the U-joint on the pencil and lay the bubble level CROSSWISE. Adjust the U-joint until it is balanced. Mark the spot. Cen- terpunch where the pencil marks intersect. Camera Stabilzer Plans 21Don’t forget to drill the 17/64” hole in the center of the U-joint. Use a 5/16-18 tap to thread the hole. Set the U-joint on a piece of wood and clamp to the drill press table. Line up a 27/32” drill bit with the centerpunched mark on the U-joint and drill through both vertical pieces. Next, use a 55/64” drill bit and pass it through the top hole. Then flip the U- joint over and pass the 55/64” drill bit through the other hole. What this does is to widen the 27/32” holes just slightly 55/64" drill bie enough to allow the skateboard bearings to fit. AARARARAARRARRRR. Lay the U-joint over the edge of a sturdy table. Place a bearing on the hole just drilled, set a piece of wood over the bearing, then use a hammer to pound the bearing tightly into the U- joint. Make sure the bearing is flush. Put another bearing into the other side. 22 Camera Stabler Pane oe we adie lie ial RillCut the ends off the EMT pipe as 15/32" Shown. Insert the 2” piece of pipe cut from the monopod into the straighter end of the curved pipe by placing a piece of wood over it and pounding with a hammer. The smaller pipe acts as a reducer to create a tighter fit for the bearings which will be added in a later step. 5/16” hex nuts i> iP 5/16” x2 1/2" full chread hex bole PIIB atop mire Insert a 5/16-18 x 2 1/2” full thread hex bolt through the U-joint and add (3) bearings, (3) 5/16-18 hex nuts, and a 5/16-18 stop nut, 3/4" x 1/8" bushing Pound a bushing into the end of the EMT pipe with a hammer, then drill a #7 hole through the pipe and the bushing. The hole does not need to go completely through - just drill to the center of the bushing. Camera Stabilizer Plans 23 GsTo accurately find the hole placements for the gimbal handle, line up the end of the EMT pipe with the center of the first nut on the U-joint bearing assembly. The space between the bearings should be about 1/4”, just enough room to insert two 1/4-20 set screws. Mark four lines on the EMT pipe that coincide with these spaces and centerpunch two points directly in the center of the lines. Drill two #7 holes through one side of the pipe only. | wpriew ©) Mark a point on the other side of the EMT pipe that coincides with the center of the first bearing. Centerpunch and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit. 24 Camera Stabilizer Plans Now mark a point on the top of the EMT pipe that coincides with the center of the first bearing (make sure the front of the pipe is still lined up with the center of the first nut). Centerpunch the point and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit. PRORRAHREHRAAATARTAHHHAnHnnnnnnnnyDUPRE aaa aaa Thread all five holes in the EMT pipe with a 1/4-20 tap. Jem Insert the U-joint bearing assembly into the pipe. First, screw in two 1/4-20 x 1/4” set screws into the “spacer” holes. These keep the assembly from falling out of the pipe. If you tighten them too much, they will contact the nuts and the assembly will not turn. Next, insert two set screws onto the first bearing. These keep the assembly from wobbling around inside the pipe. If you tighten them too much, the bearing will distort and not turn freely. Spin the U- joint to make sure it rotates freely, then jiggle it to make sure it does not wobble around. Adjust the set screws if necessary. When satisfied, a bit of J-B weld can be used on each set screw to hold it in place. This step is optional due to its permanency. Use a 1/4-20 x 3/4” socket head screw for the hole at the bottom of the pipe. This is used to lock the pipe to the arm, which eliminates any jolts that can occur while running with the rig. Camera Stabler Plans 25Take two 5/16-18 x 1 1/2” full thread hex bolts and mount a 5/16-18 stop nut on each. Insert the bolts through the bearing holes in the U-joint. Thread one directly into the main collar. Thread the other one through the right angle bracket and into the slot in the collar until it seats against the main bearing. Insert a 10-24 x 1/2” socket head screw down through the bracket until it seats firmly against the bearing. This completes the assembly of the gimbal mechanism. Instructions for how to adjust the gimbal to achieve a dynamic balance are explained at the end of the book. 26 Camera Stabilizer Plans RAAOTDDAHRALTFAAAAAAAAAHHAHAAHHHHnonanne.Wr = 3/16" hole ———— ee @ -#7 hole 5/16" Four pieces need to be cut from the aluminum angle: two 8” parts and two 5” parts. The 8” pieces need slots cut. Drill all holes as shown using the camera plate holes as a guide for the 8” pieces and the z-axis plate holes as a guide for the 5” pieces. Tap the #7 holes with a 1/4-20 tap. eas es Attach the slot- ted 8” aluminum angle pieces to the camen plate using four 10-24 x 1/2” screws, four 10-24. washers, and four 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 27Use a 1/4-20 tap to thread the #7 holes in the z-axis plate. Use four 10-24 x 1/2” screws, four 10-24 washers, and four 10-24 nuts to attach the 5” alu- minum angle pieces to the z-axis plate. 28 Camera Stabllzer Plans Put the camera plate as- sembly onto the z-axis plate assembly. AAARAARRAAARATAAARHAAHAHAATAHHHHHHaae.QUT G ERT Mount the entire stage assembly onto the x-axis plate. Secure it with four 1/4” washers and four 1/4-20 x 3/4” allen socket screws going up through the slots. Insert four 1/4” x 3/4” allen socket screws with washers through the sides of the stage assembly. Put a 1/4” wingnut backwards on a 1/4” x 1” hex bolt. Insert the bolt up through a hole in the feamerayplatcy Insert two 1/4” x 5” bolts with two 1/4” washers through the holes in the battery plate. Run the bolt ends through the slot in the sled base. Add the other battery pilatte, two 1/4” washers, and secure with two 1/4” nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 29Using weatherstrip adhe- sive, attach cork gasket ma- terial to the camera pllate. If more weight is needed on the base: Slide a 1” od x 2 1/2” pipe over the lower shaft. Add dumbbell weights to the pipe (see page 59 for proper amount of weight to use). A 1” shaft collar can be mounted above the weights to hold in place. Put the gimbal assembly onto the upper shaft. Reassemble the sled and lock down the fasteners. Bubble levels can be attached with weatherstrip adhesive, one lengthwise and one crosswise. They can be placed on the camera stage or on the base to assist in balancing the sled. 30° Camera Stabilizer Plans POUR annnnnnnnnannnnnannnngannagr.Quantity (1) (1) (4) (1) (24) (22) (31) (21) (23) (8) (8) (8) (11) (22) (11) (1) (4) Size ve”x 1 1/4" x 40” 14” x 1” x 76” 1a" x 2 172" x 2 12! va” x 3" x 14” 5/16” ID x 7/8”0D 5/6” 10-24 x 2” 10-24 10-24 1/4-20 x 2” a” 1/4-20 5/16-18 x 4” 5/16-18 5/16-18 3/8-16 x 1 1/4” 15” K 4.5" x Description aluminum square tube aluminum square tube flat aluminum steel angle ABEC 3 skateboard wheel bearings washers machine screws washers hex nuts bolts (grade 8) washers stop nuts hex bolts (full thread) hex nuts stop nuts hex bolt (full thread-grade 8) extension springs (see chart p.60) Camera Stabllzer Plans 31 Building the Armad @ BONES pe" te 2 uw @ av8 tee ~f- rise tote Eight “bones” need to be cut from the 1/8” x 1” x 76” aluminum square tube. Each bone is 9” in length. Measure and cut one at a time. Grind or file the edges after each cut. ruler pencil Take a bone and measure in from the edge 1/2” on both ends as shown. Mark the spots with a pencil. : Now lay the ruler so that both marks rest on its edge and connect them with a pencil line. 82 Camera Stabilizer PlansVUUVWURT UU make a pencil mark. Set a centerpunch at each mark and give it a good tap with a hammer. On the side of the bone, measure across 7/8” from one end, 1/2” up from the edge, and mark with a pencil. This is where a 1/4” hole will be drilled. Centerpunch. 64” drill bit drill bit 1/4" drill bit ‘T-handle tap wrench 3/8-16 tap 5/16-18 tap Set the marked tube onto another tube and clamp them both to the drill press table. Make sure the bones are flush with each other. Drill a 17/64” hole at each cen- terpunched mark completely through both bones. Camera Stabilizer Plans 3Take one of the bones just drilled and use it as a template: set it onto one of the undrilled tubes. Use the holes as a guide to line up the drill bit and bore through both bones. Repeat this process for all the remaining bones so that they all have the exact same hole place- ments. Remember the mark you made for the 1/4” hole on the side of the first tube? Set this bone on top of another and drill the hole through both tubes. 1/4” drill " against the posts as shown and mark the’ hole placements. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16” drill bit. post B and post D 55/64” drill bit ” drill bit C-clamp Set post D onto post C and clamp to the drill press table. Use a 27/32” drill bit to bore completely through both posts at the crosshairs on post D. Then remove the posts from the drill press and clamp post A onto post B. Also drill two 27/32” holes VUDU UU through both pieces. Camera Stabilizer Plans 3955/64” drill bit hammer block of wood Place a skateboard bearing onto one of the holes of post D. Set a piece of wood on top of the bearing, then pound gently until the bearing is seated flush inside the post. Set three more bearings into the post. It may be necessary to file the inside edges of the 55/64” holes slightly with a round file or rotary file to allow insertion of the bear- ings, Next, use a 55/64” drill bit and pass it through all four holes in each post one-by-one. The pur- pose for this step is as follows: when drilling completely through the posts with the 27/32” drill bit, the top hole may widen slightly as the bottom holes are being bored. To bring all the holes back to the same size, it is necessary to drill each one individually with a slightly bigger bit. Repeat this process for the remaining three posts. 40 Camera Stabilizer PlansPhillips screwdriver 3/8” wrench or socket Attach two of the steel angle pieces to post B and post D as shown with six 10-24 x 2” screw, six 10-24 washers, and six 10-24 nuts. Attach the two more steel angle pieces to post C with six 10-24 x 2” screws, six washers, and six nuts. Attach the angle piece to post A as shown. (3) 10-24 x 2” machine screws (3) 10-24 washers (3) 10-24 hex nuts Mark a hole placement on the bottom of the steel angles on both arm segments. This part is a little tricky: Set each bracket assembly on a piece of wood and clamp to the drill press table. Make sure the clamp is not in the path of the drill bit. Drill 5/16” hole through both angle pieces in one pass. If the bit will not reach the bottom angle, stop the drill and raise the table with the bit still inside the first hole, then proceed. Camera Stabilizer Plans 41 AQVQU URI Ga aaa aaa1/2” wrench or socket two 7/16” wrenches or sockets (8) 5/16” washers (4) 5/16-18 x 4” full thread hex bolts Pay careful attention to how the posts and bones are oriented when assembling: the BOTTOM of post Ais situated near the 1/4” hole in one of the bones, and the TOP of post B is situated near the 1/4” hole in the other bone. Thread each of the bolts partially up through the bones and the bearings in the posts. Add two 5/16” hex nuts and spin them up the shaft with your fingers. STOP thread- ing the bolts just as the end passes through the top washer on the post. 42 Camera Stabilizer Plans ‘STOP the bolts hereSAA Set tube A and B in place as shown so the i holes line up with the bolts. Again, make sure they are oriented correctly by noting where the 1/4” holes are at. Place clamps lightly on the bones as shown to hold them in place while the bolts are completely thread- ed in. Secure the bolts with stop nuts. 2 (4) 5/16-18 stop nuts 4 Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts into the 1/4” holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt. (4) 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts — (4) 1/4” washers (4) 1/4-20 stop nuts Camera Stabilzer Plans 43(8) 5/16” washers (4) 5/16-18 x 4” full thread hex bolts The assembly process for the second arm segment is identical to the first. Pay careful attention to how all the bones are oriented. 44 Camera Stabilizer Plans pose C Serre ita ae CAEL sate nike Goa Wee Oe Be(AAA aaa Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts into the 1/4” holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt. (4) 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts (4) 1/4” washers (4) 1/4-20 stop nuts Insert a 3/8” x 1 1/4” full-thread grade 8 hex bolt up through the angle piece. Get it nice and tight. T used a hand grinder to shave off the threads of the bolt @ after it was tightened into the an- gle piece so that it would fit snug into the bushing on the gimbal handle. Another option is to use a 3/8” x 3 1/2” grade 8 bolt, use a 3/8-16 die and stock to cut threads down to 1/2” from the Q hex cap, then have a metal shop remove the last 2 3/4” of threads. This will improve stability. Camera Stabilizer Plas 45Attaching the elbow is very tricky. A 5/16” washer needs to be placed atop each bearing and the entire assmbly fitted into the steel angles. The bearings can be pushed up or down slightly with a wrench to adjust the fit, which should be snug. Insert a 5/16” x 4” bolt down through the assembly. Slip on two 5/16” nuts as the bolt progresses. You should be able to use your fingers to spin them into the proper position above each bearing. Screwdrivers can also be used to wedge the nuts still as you wrench the bolt down. 5/16” stop nuts can be added to the ends. When complete, you'll have excess bolt hanging out which you can cut off if you want. 46 Camera Stabler Plans PARAKRARARARAAAARARARARARARARARRRPS .MUU Attach the shoulder joint assembly to the post D brackets in the same manner as the elbow joint using a 5/16” x 4” full thread bolt, two 5/16 nuts, and two 5/16” washers if needed. Put a 5/16” stop nut on the end of the bolt. Attach the four springs and the arm is complete. Camera Stabilizer Plans 47Quantity (a Q) qd) (14) (4) (4) @5) (22) qd) qd) (2) (2) (2) (6) ql) ay 16D) qd) Size 14” x 2 3/4” x 13” 38” x 4" x 17” us” x 7” x 10” 10-24 x 1” 10-24 x 34” 10-24 x 12” 10-24 10-24 5/16-18 x 4” 5/16” ua”? X 3/4” ua) ua” 150” 30” x 70” 10” x 25” va” x 30” x 45” 48 Camera Stabler Plans Description flat aluminum flat aluminum flat aluminum machine screws machine screws machine screws washers nuts hex bolt (grade 8) wingnut hex bolts washers knobs (female) buckles strap material 1050 denier cordura (or medium to heavyweight material) 1050 denier cordura foam pad Building the Front-Mount Vest AHAARARAKRANDARARARAAAHRAARAAARAARARAREe wire hanger Layout measurements for the waist plate on the 3/8” x 4” x 17” flat aluminum. Drill all holes accordingly. The aluminum needs to be bent in four places. To do so, make a guide with a wire clothes hanger by bending at the measured points. Fit the hanger to your hips and adjust the bends. Use the wire guide to tell how much the aluminum needs to be bent. Camera Stabler Plans 49@ =1/4" hole 2122" 21/2" @ = 3/16" hole oO 312° a0 3472" Use the 1/3” x 7” x 10” piece of flat aluminum to make the chest plate. Drill holes, cut out the shape, then bend the extended sides slightly. 50 Camera Stabler PlansHTATDAIDTATATTTPADTATAA Aaa aaa aaa 3/8" Use the 1/4” x 2 3/4” x 13” flat aluminum to build the vertical brace. All holes are 3/16”. The bottom four can be traced from the waist plate for better alignment. Cut two vertical 1/4” slots as shown using the 1/4” holes from the chest plate as a guide. Using the steel angle left over from the arm materials, cut two 1 1/4” pieces. Drill three 3/16” holes all the way through. 13" 19/16" 3/16" holes aie (2) is very sharp. ha¥ Be sure to grind all the edges with the side of the chop saw or a grinder - steel Camera Stabllzer Plans 5110-24x1/2" G 10-24 x1" Set the angle pieces against the waist plate and trace the holes. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16” bit. 52 Camera Stabilizer Plans ARAKRKRARKRANARAARAARAKRAAARAARARARRARKR.UDP DAR TTD Attach the last buckle to the left side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4” machine screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts. Line up the steel angle pieces with the holes in the waist plate. Insert six 10-24 x 1” machine screws with six 10-24 washers. Tf the screws do not push easily through both components, run a 3/16” drill bit through the waist plate and steel angle holes with a power drill. Tighten everything together with six 10-24 nuts. Run a 5/16” drill bit down through the steel pieces. Attach a buckle to the right side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4” machine screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 53Insert a 5/16” x 4” bolt through the steel angle pieces and secure in place with a 5/16” wingnut. Here is how the vest should look thus far. 54 Camera Stabilize Plans PHO ATA RONAN AAA eePlease note: these measurements are for an average sized person. Some adjustments may be necessary. Try using paper or cardboard first and see how it molds around your torso. -_—— 5" 12” 9" LL _, a7 Cut out two pieces from the heavy-weight material in the shape above. With the good sides facing each other, sew the pieces together as shown. Camera Stabilzer Plans 55Turn the sewn fabric inside-out and insert a piece of foam cut out in the same shape (but slightly smaller). Sew the bottom of the fabric closed. The two vertical straps should be about 24” long and | the horizontal strap should be about 42” long. Sew all three to the vest as shown. 56 Comers Stabilizer Plans NARDRHRARAARARARAARARAARARRARARARRRRE.HOTTA ATTTAATAAT ATTA aaa 25" Fold the 10” x 25” fabric in half, good sides facing in, and sew the edges together. Turn the fabric inside- out, insert a piece of foam cut in the je same shape (slightly smaller), and sew the fabric closed. Attach a 36” buckle strap as shown. Camera Stabilizer Plans 57Pee eae aaa The completed vest 58 Camera Stabler Plansa Setting up the Stabilizer Remove the camera base from the stabilizer stage to attach a camcorder. NEVER mount a camera to the stage with the camera base still attached - the camcorder could fall and become damaged. Try to match weights between the stage and the base - if the camera weighs 4 pounds, put 3 to 4 pounds of weight on the base in the form of a monitor, battery, and/or dumbbell weights. Usually it is good to have more weight up top than on bottom. Weigh the sled fully loaded and consult the chart on page 60 to find which springs to use on the arm. For instance, if a 3 pound camcorder is being used, put a 2.5 pound dumbbell weight on the base. If the sled weighs 6.5 pounds, total added weight equals 12 pounds. According to the chart, the proper springs to use would be two .085 springs on the rear of the arm, a .085 on the front, and a .075 on the front. If an 8 pound camera is being used with a 3 pound battery and a 1.5 pound monitor, put a 2.5 pound dumbbell weight on the base so the base weighs close to the the stage. The sled weighs 6.5 pounds, the base will have 6.5 pounds, and the stage will have 8 pounds. Total weight equals 21.5 pounds. According to the chart, the proper springs to use would be four .093 springs. Try to always have someone help when adorning the rig. The vest goes on first, then mount up the arm to the waist plate. Next, have the helper assist in holding up the fully-loaded sled while the gimbal handle is attached to the mount on the arm. Camera Stabilzer Plans 59EXTENSION SPRIN CHART ‘The extension springs used in these plans are made of MUSIC WIRE and have no finish. FULLY-LOADED SLED WEIGHT up to 9 pounds 9-12 pounds 12 - 16 pounds 16 - 21 pounds 21 - 26 pounds 26 - 37 pounds Extension springs can be ordered online. The first number represents the diameter of the spring. The second SPRING COMBINATIONS (1) .75"x 4.5” x .075 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" x .085 in rear (2) .75”x 4.5” x .075 in front (2) 75" x 4.5" x .085 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" x .075 in front (1) .75”x 4.5” x .085 in front (4) .75"x 4.5" x 085 (1) .75"x 4.5"x 085 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" .093 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" .085 in front (1).75"x 4.5" x .093 in front (4) .75"x 4.5" x 093 (1) .75"x 4.5" x .093 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" .105 in rear qd) a) 75" x 4.5" x .093 in front 75" x 4.5" x 105 in front number is the length (including loop ends), and the third number is the thickness of the wire. SPRING SPECIFICATIONS spring (music wire) rate initial tension su, 75” x 4.5" x 075 3.600 2.000 .75"* 4.5" x .085 6.900 3.000 75" x 4.5" x .093 11.000 4.000 15" * 4.5" x 105 21.000 5.000 60 Camera Staiier Plans ig_max_def 6.000 4.400 3.500 2.600 sug_max_load 23.000 34.000 42.000 60.0001. Weigh the Camera, Battery, and Monitor (label the values as X,Y, and Z respectively) 2. Determine the position of their c.g.’s (center of gravity) 3. Choose where you want to place the Monitor (this will give you values for A and D) 4. Choose how long you want the sled to be (this will give you the value for B) 5. Determine where the battery should be using XN this equation: lulliply Z times D, then multiply by A, then divide the result by B times Y. This will give you a rough idea of how) far to place the battery's ¢.g. away from the main shaft. a(zD) 6. Determine where the camera should be using this equation: AX. cistence between Camera c.g. and Monitor es B. sistnce perweon Camera c.g, and Battery eg lance between Camera c.g and Main Shaft GS stetonce erweo a fultiply Z umes D, then subtract Y times ©. Divide the Alstones between Menken e-a:and Mele Bhat: result by X. TI ou a rough idea of how far to y i distance between Battery ¢.9. and Main Shatt lace the cames 7. Balance side-to-side by moving the camera left or right until level. 8. Balance fore-to-aft by moving the battery forward or backward until level. 9, Fine tune the fore and aft balance by adjusting the camera forward or backward 10. The sled should now have a good STATIC balance. Rotate the main shaft until the camera is facing in the opposite direction. If everything is still level, you have an acceptable DYNAMIC balance. If not, move the battery in or out about 1/4”, Static balance with the camera and try again. If things are way off, the gimbal needs adjusting. Camera Stabler Plans 61 OOGTTTTTTTaaaaa aaaNext rotate the sled 180 degrees and see if it still hangs level. If not, see page 65-66 for gimbal adjustments. Mount the camera according to the equation and rotate the sled to a horizontal position. Slide the gimbal along the shaft until the sled stays balanced. This is the center of gravity. Now slide the gimbal up towards the camera about 1/2” and lock it down. The sled will slowly return to a hanging position. Count how long it takes for the sled to “drop”. Adjust the slide up or down. the shaft until you have acquired a 3-second drop time. 62 Camera Stabilizer Plans ~ HOWTO BALANCE Start with the sled mounted on a stand without a camera attached. The battery and monitor arrangement needs to be adjusted so that they are balanced together. In this example, the monitor is mounted to an aluminum square tube that can be moved forward and backward. Adjust until the base hangs level according to the previous equation. AAR ARARARAAAAAARAKRAARARARARARAARAPOTD Adjustments can now be made with the gimbal to achieve a dynamic balance. First, the forward-backward tilt needs to be analyzed. Start with the camera facing right and note the position. Then rotate the shaft until the camera is facing left and note the position. In this example, the camera is leaning back equally in both positions, which means balance can be achieved by moving the camera forward. Loosen the side socket screws on the camera platform and slide the entire camera plate forward until the sled is balanced. Next, the side-to-side tilt needs to be analyzed. Start with the camera facing forward and note the position. Then rotate the shaft until the camera is facing rearward and note the position. In this example, the camera is leaning to its right side equally in both positions, which means balance can be achieved by moving the camera to the left. Loosen the bottom socket screws on the camera platform and slide the entire camera plate to the left until the sled is balanced. Stabilizer Plans 63What if the camera does not lean equally in both positions? This means the gimbal is not adjusted properly. Begin by analyzing the forward- backward tilt in two positions: tighten tighten N\A 64 Camera Stabilizer Plans In this example, the camera appears balanced in the first position, but leans far forward in the second position. To adjust, loosen the gimbal stopnut on the leaning side and tighten the stopnut on the other side. This will slide the main bearing and allow for balancing adjustments. Check the positions again and continue to trim accordingly until balance is achieved. side tilt in two positions: In this example, the camera appears balanced in the first position, but leans far left in the second position. To adjust, loosen the gimbal stopnut on the leaning side and tighten the stopnut on the other side. Check the positions again and continue to trim accordingly until balance is achieved. NOUHAHARHTTAanngnnannanaananaaaganananraegChecking Z-Axis Tilt Many consumer stabilizer products have been known to have misaligned gimbals, which makes achieving a dynamic balance impossible. Fortunately, this design allows the user to make fine trim adjustments to the gimbal. Face the side of the sled with the camera facing backwards and slowly spin the shaft until the camera faces forward. Note the levelness of the sled in both positions. If it is level in one position, but lobs forward in the other position, then the balance point is too far back on the collar. Loosen the 10-24 screw and the 5/16” bolt in the small angle bracket slightly Wf to allow adjustments to the é collar. The 5/16” bolt can be moved forward or backwards within the slot of the collar. | In this instance, the bolt needs to be moved forward. Camera Stabilizer Plans 65 HUGGER TTTAAAATTTATT TTTChecking X-axis Tilt | | Face the front of the sled and spin the shaft. If the top lobs to the right and then returns to vertical, the balance point is too far left. The gimbal is designed to allow minor adjustments left or right to compensate for x-axis drift. Use two 1/2” wrenches to adjust the nuts on the bolts which will move the bearing collar. If the balance point is too far left, then the collar needs to move to the left. Spin the shaft again, trim the camera, and adjust more if needed. 66 Camera Stabilier PlansBuilding a Low-Angle Bracket PATA TET Dea Quantity (1) (2) (2) (6) (2) (2) (20) (10) (1) (2) (1) (2) (2) () Size 1”x 10” us” x 212" x 4” 1" x 1x 5” 10-24 x 1 12” 10-24 x 3/4” 10-24 x 12” 10-24 10-24 1a” x 1” 14 14” v4” 2112” x 4” small tube Description aluminum square tube flat aluminum steel right-angle brackets machine screws machine screws machine screws washers nuts hex bolt washers wing nut nuts cork/rubber gasket material 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive Camera Stabilizer Plans 67Try to find steel angle brackets that are pre-drilled. Lay them on the aluminum square tube and trace the holes with a pencil. Centerpunch and drill six 3/16” holes all the way through the aluminum square tube. 3/16" hole 1/4" hole | 3/16" hole Set an angle bracket centered on Centerpunch all marks. Drill a 1/4” each 1/8” x 2 1/2” x 4” piece of flat _ hole in the center and two 3/16” aluminum and trace the holes. holes on the outside. Use weatherstrip adhesive to mount the cork material onto one of the flat aluminum pieces. When adhesive dries, drill the three holes through the cork. {68 Comera Stabilier Plans AHKHHKHAKHHAHRHHARARARAARARRARARARRPPRS.ADTOTISTET TOOT Mount the bare flat aluminum piece to a bracket with two 10-24 x 1/2” screws, four 10-24 washers, and two. 10-24 nuts. to a bracket with two 10-24 x 3/4” screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts. @ 1 1 Mount the corked flat aluminum piece qe & Attach the angle brackets to the aluminum square tube using six 10-24 x 1 1/2” screws, twelve 10-24 washers, and six 10-24 nuts, Camera Stabilizer Plans 69Two holes should be carved out of the cork on the camera plate to accommodate the nuts on the low- VEX Couonon ror angle bracket. 70. Camera Stablizer Plans Push a 1/4” x 1” hex bolt through a 1/4” washer and one of the holes on the camera plate. Feed the bolt through the center hole of the low- angle bracket, add a 1/4” washer, and tighten down with a 1/4” wingnut. Mount the camera to the low-angle bracket using the same camera-mounting bolt and wingnut from page 29. FARAH ARAHAAKRHHHAHRARAARARARARARARARRRPR,AAMT dded dade dade aad Building a Balancing Stand 14” 34” % 4 xe <— 5/16" hole IMARK E leave 1/8” gap You will need a 1/8” x 1 1/4” x 72” steel square tube 1/8” x 1 1/4” x 42 3/4” steel square tube. Begin he 72” piece and mark off two measurements as shown. Drill a 5/16” hole at one end. Lay the piece flat and draw a 45-degree angle on both sides of each mark using a 45-45-90 triangle. Cut out the two triangular sections, leaving a 1/8” gap at the apex. and a with t Camera Stabler Plans 71Bend the tube into the shape shown with your hands. x indicates where aweld ts needed ! —~5/16-18 stop nuc > 5/16" washers _—5/16-18 x4” full chread grade 8 hex bole note: welds are not necessary if corner brackets are used Take the 42 3/4” steel tube and cut it in half. Mark off measurements as shown and lay the pieces against the larger frame at the marks. Weld the two pieces to the frame and also weld at the bends. If welding is not desired, use corner brackets at each right angle. Drill 1/4” holes and mount with 1/4” x 2” bolts. Insert a 5/16-18 x 4” full-thread grade 8 hex bolt through the hole and secure with two 5/16” washers and a 5/16-18 stop nut. Spray with a rust-protectant paint. 72 Camera Stabilizer Plans QTHOKATRADKROKRARAKRAHAAARARRARRARge.VURPUPURTET EERE The following excerpt is reprinted from the SOC magazine: The Operating Cameraman Fall/Winter 1995/96 -Vol. 5, No. 2 By Dr. Carl C. Howard III and Dr. Carl C, Howard Jr 1. Proper posture. Proper posture in this case means keeping your legs under your weight at all times and avoid bending at the waist as much as possible. If itis required of you to put yourself in an awkward position with the Steadicam, have spotters standing close by to help you with any difficult movements, 2. Keep the camera as close to your body as possible. ‘The closer to your body you keep the camera the less stress you put on your back and the less chance you have of injuring your back. When those times arrive when you must hold the camera at arm’s length, only do it for short periods of time and use a support if possible, 3. Try fo avoid standing and turning the camera to the back. ‘The combination of the twisting involved and the stress put on the low back greatly increase the possibility of a Jow back injury, particularly a discal injury. 4. Maintain a good exercise program. Although no exercise program will guarantee freedom from a back injury, a good exercise program can greatly decrease the possibility of a back injury. How? Here are four main recommendations to keeping a strong and healthy back. Strengthen the muscles of the low back. Strengthen the abdominal muscles. Strengthen the leg muscles including glutes, quadriceps, hamstrings, and calves. Regularly stretch the hamstrings and low back. Proper exercise and stretching even for people already in great shape will undoubtedly make operating a Steadicam much safer. Stay safe ‘When filming with a Steadicam or any other type of camera for that matter always be aware of the safety measures involved, Taking a few moments to think of a safer way to accomplish a shot may save you immeasurable amounts of time, money, and pain. 80% of all people will experience low back pain at some point in their lives. Don’t push the odds higher by not following good safety procedures and good common sense Camera Stabilizer Plans 73There had to be plans on how to build one on the internet. Or so I assumed. After weeks of searching, I found none. NONE! I couldn't give up, [had to have one. I began to research and develop ideas on how to build one with supplies found at my local hardware store. After a year of research, designing, building, and 5 prototypes later, I now have my own camera stabilizer - and Tove it! And I documented all my efforts along the way so that if someone else ever has the desire like I did, they can go on the internet and find what they’re looking for. 74 Came Stabile Pons In my pursuit of wanting to be a filmmaker, I began acquiring equipment, one piece at a time as my finances would allow. I really wanted to have Garrett Brown’s infamous invention, the Steadicam. The ability to achieve smooth shots while maintaining the freedom to move anywhere the action is instilled a desire in me that had to be fulfilled. After pricing the professional and consumer-grade models, | realized I could never afford one. RARARRARAAKARAKRHAAARAARARRARRARARRRRRRPS.WUC eee aaa 5.8” Rainbow LCD Monitor, switchable between 16:9 and 4:3 and available in NTSC or PAL. This color monitor is designed to be used without a hood in full sunlight. Powering up the monitor requires some dismantling of an XLR4 cable. Connectors can be attached to wires 1 and 4 so that the monitor can hook up directly to any 12- volt battery source. The unit weighs 1.3 pounds, perfect for stabilizer use. This particular model is being powered by a PowerSonic PS-1250 12 volt 5.0 amp hrs rechargeable sealed lead-acid battery. The unit weighs 3 pounds and can sit on a shelf for two months without need of charging. Don’t fully discharge this battery. Never let it fall below 9 volts. Charge with a PSC-12500-A automatic charger for safe and reliable charging. Also shown is a Varizoom VZ-Pro- L remote variable- speed zoom and focus controller. Camera Stabilizer Plans 75This is an earlier prototype of the vest represented in the PLANS. The chest plate has since been modified, but everything else is the same. The low-angle bracket is a simple, yet excellent piece of equipment to have for getting smooth shots way down low. 7% Camera Stabilizer Plans ARAKRAARAAAAARARARAARARHRARRRPaae.GOUT Building the Back-Mount Vest Quantity Size Description (1) sis” x5" x6” flat aluminum (1) a8” x 4" x 15” flat aluminum (2) vs" x 1 vax 15.12” aluminum square tubes (1) sus”x 1 x 2” x 9” steel rectangle tube (3) ua” x 3" x 5” steel angle (2) 5/16-18 x 3” hex bolts (grade 8) (1) 5/16-18 x 3/4” hex bolt (grade 8) (1) 5/16-18 x 1 va” hex bolt (grade 8) (4) sie washers (3) 5/16" stop nuts (6) ua" x 212” hex bolts (grade 8) (4) 14” x 34” allen socket bolts (12) 14” washers. (6) va” stop nuts (4) 10-241” machine screws (8) 10-24 washers (4) 10-24 hex nuts (1) 24”"x 72” medium-weight nylon (1) 14" x 24” x 36” foam pad () sturdy belt (2) 114"x 40" straps Q) buckles Camera Stabilizer Plans 7?@ 3/16" hole @} ve boe 4p) 5/16" hole 12” ; ra ae Sa 112” 6” 2” —_—, oS 5” 78 Camera Stabilizer Plans The waist plate is almost identical to the front-mounted version. Cut two slots in the flat aluminum piece and drill two 1/4” holes. = = ns = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = i = = = = = = = = = = = =| See eee eee eee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee (x2) Drill five 1/4” holes as shown in both aluminum square tubes. 15 12” “ Cut three pieces from the steel angle. Drill the 5/16” holes, then align the pieces as shown and weld them together. > hote gut = wiv a” 19/16") (2) 178” Put some weatherstrip 2 adhesive on the bottom ; ,, | ps of a 5/16” washer and set it in place over the > lower hole on the steel = 5/16" holes bracket. 4 / © Camera Stabilizer Plans 79)5/16" holes Insert the Y-bracket into the steel tube. Put a 5/16-18 x 1-1/4” hex bolt through the center holes of both parts and secure with a 5/16” stop nut. Screw another 5/16-18 x 3/4” bolt down through the steel tube to adjust the tilt of the Y- bracket. 17/64” hole Drill two 5/16” ee tap) holes, a 17/64” hole, and two #7 holes in tenet SL #Tholes the steel rectangle a7 (1420 la) tube as shown. Thread the 17/64” {se hole with a 5/16-18 low tap. Thread the #7 one tb holes with a 1/4-20 aad tap. Drill a 3/8” hole. *The backrest to a cushioned office chair usually has a nice curved steel tube that can also be used instead of a straight steel tube. Screw in four 1/4” socket screws and adjust them to vary the roll of the Y-bracket. 80 Camera Stabilier Plans AAAa eee Cut out two bell shapes from the nylon material, (x2) Jay them on top of each other, and sew them together, leaving the bottom open. Turn the material inside out. Cut a piece of foam in the same shape, slightly smaller, and insert it into the material. Sew up the bottom. | 6” Run the straps through the buckles, through the slots in the back plate, then back through the buckle as shown. Sew the ends of the straps back to themselves. Sew two belt straps to each wing of the vest pad. Camera Stabilzer Plans 81Mount the upper back plate to the two square tubes using 1/4-20 x 2 1/2” bolts, four 1/4” washers, and two 1/4” stop nuts. Next run four 1/4” bolts through the vest pad, the waist plate, and the aluminum square tubes. Use eight 1/4” washers and four 1/4” stop nuts to secure. To mount the arm connector assembly to the vest, put two 5/16-18 x 3” bolts through the vest pad, belt, waist plate, and steel tube with four 5/16” washers. Secure with two 5/16” stop nuts. 82 Camera Stabilizer Plans ARRARARAARARARARANRAARAAARAnAAARAAAPA| Attach the ends of the straps to the waist plate by running four 10-24 x 1” screws through the vest pad, belt, waist plate, and straps. Use eight 10-24 washers and four 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 83 CREE RRERERREEEREOR RE OR ee ee eee ee ey