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THE
BEST
of
the
PA S T R Y
COMMUNITY
Issue 12, FEBRUARY 2008
US World
Cup Team
Fashion
Show
Silicone
Simplicity
Cranberry
Three Ways
Kugelhopf
The Vanilla Extract from Eurovanille

is unique. It contains no alcohol
and is more concentrated (200g/
liter) than the standard alcoholbased products. Because there is no
alcohol evaporation and more vanilla
beans per measure, the yield will be
approximately 4 times higher.
Available exclusively from:
770-252-6377
www.pastrynet.com
10
Issue 12, FEBRUARY 2008
FEATURES

6 Shadowing the US World Cup

Team to Lyon Part 1
Interview with En-Ming Hsu
by Pastrys Best Staff
10 Recipe for the Runway
by Kim Rothrock
DEPARTMENTS

12 Silicone Simplicity
21 Hot Choclate
25 Michel Cluizel Recipes
by Michael Joy and Susan Notter
21
by James W. Mullaney
White Chocolate Dlice

Vila Gracinda Rasberry
22
35
29 Verrines et Petit-Gteaux
by Stphane Glacier
34 Coquelicot
by Oliver Bajard
35 Attraction
38 Pistachio Crme Brule Verrine
39 Boston Creme Cake
by Laurent Duchne
by Theodore Pary
by Theodore Pary
39
40
40 Kugelhopf
by Mitch Stamm
43 Partner Information
45 How in the World
by Michael Joy with Anthony Chavez

46 Happy New Year
with Randy Sebastien
46
MAGAZINE EXCERPTS
17 Pasticceria Internazionale
Innovative Desserts from Italy
22 Thuris Magazine
Cranberry Three Ways
OUR COVER
Pagoda Cake
Courtesy Michele Hester and Sugarveil.
For details, go to www.sugarveil.com.
www.pastrysbest.com | 3
David Kee
Publisher
Darryl Lilly
Manager
Betsy OBrien
Editor
Darryl Lilly
Art Director
Publishers Press
Printing
Kim Rothrock, Michael Joy,
Beatrice Schneider, Mitch Stamm
Contributing Writers
En-Ming Hsu, Stphane Trand
Chris Northmore, Cindy Cameron
Pastry Advisors
ADVERTISING
Darryl Lilly
P.O. Box 71442
Newnan, Georgia 30271
770-252-6377
darryl@pastrybest.com
Pastrys Best Magazine is published quarterly by Pastrys Best, LLC. All contents
are copyright 2008, Pastrys Best Magazine. All rights reserved. No portion of this
issue may be copied, scanned, or reproduced in any manner without prior written
consent from the Publisher. Unauthorized users will be billed appropriately for
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Pastrys Best Magazine, 2008
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www.thuries.fr/magazine
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From the Publisher

Friends,
At one time, chefs hung on to their recipes as if their
life depended upon the secrets they held. Today, while a
few still have that sentiment, most are willing to openly
share their knowledge, tricks, tools, discoveries and
creations with the rest of us. This has been one of the
many refreshing developments of the last decade in the
pastry community.
Web forums and publications such as Pastrys Best are
new hubs for the dissemination of industry knowledge.
This openness has challenged many to try new things,
think outside the box and come up with more and more
originality something from which we all benefit!
We have dedicated this issue to recipes and have asked
many of our contributors to share some of their more
unique creations, along with some nice photographs.
These recipes are practical, different and above all look
and taste great!
So, go ahead, feel free copy them all you want and even
take credit for them if you want. Were family and we
dont have secrets anymore!
Want more recipes? Get your fill by purchasing our
compilation of Pastrys Best first 10 issues! Go online to
www.pastrysbest.com and get a copy!
Enjoy!
David Kee
Publisher
david@pastrynet.com
A truly International magazine

tailored to the passionate pastry
professional.
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To subscribe go to
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From The Publisher
A 384-page Compilation Edition of

the first ten issues of the magazine
is available online for $49 plus
shipping.
Until the World Cup event in January 2009, and in each of the next five issues, Pastrys Best will be following the teams
progress with contributions from coach En-Ming Hsu and the reflections of team alternate Jim Mullaney.
Shadowing the
US World Cup
Team to Lyon
by Pastrys Best Staff
he selection of the 2009 United States World Cup team took place at LAcadmie
de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland on November 3 and 4. The following pastry
chefs made the team and will represent the U.S. in Lyon for the finals of the
World Cup of Pastry.
David Ramirez
Rosen Shingle Creek Hotel, Orlando, Florida (Captain)
Rmy Funfrock
The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado
Roy Pell
The Phoenician, Scottsdale, Arizona
Jim Mullaney
The Cloister, Sea Island, Georgia (Alternate)

The judges were Pierre Cantrel, Derek Poirier, Gilles Renusson and Anil Rohira.
The team will be coached by En-Ming Hsu and Sylvain Leroy.
6 | February 2008 |
The Alternate View

The Beginning
By James W. Mullaney

As 2007 comes to a close and 2008 begins, I
reflect on what I have been a part of this past year
and find myself feeling fortunate to be where I am.
Just a year ago my friend, David Ramirez and I
flew to Lyon, France to commis for Team USA 2007
and today we are part of Team USA 2009.

A few months ago we participated in the
national selection process in Gaithersburg,
Maryland. David was chosen captain and sugar
Here we go again! Its time for

another Pastry World Cup for
En-Ming Hsu!
Whats your motivation?

A. The motivation for me is that each passing World
Cup gives me two more years to become fluent in French
so that I may return triumphant to Lyon and parle
en franais avec Monsieur Paillasson. Or, at least,
understand the chatter during the competition!
On the pastry side, the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie
has always been special for me. Having been a part of
the US organization since 2001 when we won the gold
medal, I have become more involved with our recent
teams, working directly to support them.
Team USA 2001, my team, would not have been
successful without the efforts of Chefs Stanton Ho,
Donald Wressell, Jody Klocko and Keegan Gerhard.
Fully understanding what it takes for a team to get
ready, I want to help other chefs experience what I did:
the unique spirit and atmosphere of this extraordinary
event and to come home with the gold.
the road to the next World Championship.
James W. Mullaney is the Executive Pastry

Chef at The Cloister at Sea Island in Georgia.
He is also winner of the 2005 National Pastry
Championship.
Feature Story
What are the objectives for this years team?

A. The main objective is to win the gold medal. To get
there, the team must work hard to stay on schedule, be
innovative, and focus on the small details that make
a difference in their performance. Its difficult to work
continuously for over a year on the same subject. They
have to stay on track and weather through times that
can seem very frustrating.
artist for the new team. Remy Funfrock was picked

for degustation, and Roy Pell will work chocolate
and ice. My role will be that of alternate, an
unusual position for me and a sour pill to swallow.

After the initial disappointment of the
announcement and a little soul searching, I made
the decision to push as if I were a full fledged
team member and help them reach the goal of
becoming World Champions. I knew this meant
I would have to work hard at every position and,
potentially, not be needed for any. This would also
present equipment issues. I have most of what I
need for chocolate, but degustation, ice and sugar
all have specialized equipment that I would have
to purchase.

So, by this years end, whether I remain the
alternate or become a team-member, I will be a
stronger Pastry Chef with better skills. And as
a bonus, Ive been asked to share this experience
with the readers of Pastrys Best Magazine through
this column. Future issues will detail the planning,
preparation and execution of a well laid plan on
How did the word get out about potential

prospects for the team?
A. Applications for the team selection were distributed
through our sponsors. Finalists were invited to compete
at LAcademie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland.
Feature Story
Explain the selection process and how the finalists

were chosen.
A. The team selection process has changed from year
to year. Most of the selections in the past have involved
a competition that mimicked the requirements of the
actual Coupe du Monde competition in Lyon. The
selection for Team 2009 was different. The application
specified that if there were fewer than six finalists, a
practical would not be held. The team would be selected
based on the candidates application, portfolio, and an
interview with a jury. It just so happened that we ended
up with six finalists, so the practical was not held.
When was the final selection decided?
A. The National Team selection was held on November 3
and 4, 2007, at LAcademie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg,
Maryland which is the official training site of the
2009 team. The selection weekend
was sponsored by Valrhona. The
team was picked after an in-depth
interview with each candidate.
LAcademie de Cuisine hosted a
dinner in honor of the finalists
that evening. On the following day
the team held their first meeting,
planning their schedule and
discussing their theme, dessert
concepts, and ideas. The first
practice is scheduled for January
with monthly group
meetings thereafter.
8 | February 2008 |
How was it without a practical?

A. The selection worked well without a practical,
particularly since the finalists abilities were known
through previous competitions. In addition to skill and
work experience, the jury members interviewed the
candidates individually to learn more
about them.
How did team dynamics fit into the process?
A. Team dynamics were important. All aspects of each
candidate were considered in the selection process,
including skill, motivation, and personality. It was very
difficult for the jury. Team dynamics were considered
because the group will spend a lot of time together and
there will be some difficult times. It will be up to each
member to resolve any problems and continue with the
progress of the team.
What are the strengths of each of the members of
this team?
A. What is exciting about this team is the talent they
bring together. They are very passionate about their
work. Each chef has over 20 years of working experience,
and all have excelled in pastry
competitions. David Ramirez,
Team Captain, and Jim Mullaney,
Team Alternate, have competed
together three times, collecting
Gold and Bronze Medals in the
2005 National and 2006 World
Team Championships, and a Silver
medal in the 2004 Bread and Pastry
Championship. David is Executive
Pastry Chef of Rosen Shingle Creek,
Orlando, and Jim is Executive
Pastry Chef of The Cloister Hotel,
Sea Island.
Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef of The Phoenician

Scottsdale, was part of the 2004 Culinary Olympics
team that brought home a Silver and Gold medal. Remy
Funfrock, Restaurant Pastry Chef of The Broadmoor
Colorado Springs, has competed twice in the National
Pastry Championship, winning Silver medals both times.
As pastry chefs for leading hotel and resort properties,
they are well rounded in all aspects of the pastry field.
They have divided the competition responsibilities based
on personal interest and strength, but that may change
as they develop their routine.
David is said to have the blood type C for his love of
chocolate, so he will be primarily responsible for the
chocolate artistry. Remy and Roy will work together
on the ice carving and sugar piece. Remys passion is
desserts, so he will focus on the desserts as well. Jim,
who is extremely goal-oriented, has already immersed
himself into learning ice carving. He has the daunting
task of needing to be ready in all the required fields at
a moments notice if something should happen to one of
the other teammates.
VARDA CHOCOLATIER
41 S. Spring St. Elizabeth, NJ 07201
800-448-2732 www.vardachocolatier.com
For Any Occasion
What is to be accomplished in the next

three months?
A. Their first practice is in January, so much will
depend on what they accomplish then. By March, the
team should have their buffet concept complete and
have their flavor profiles for the desserts decided. It is
important for them to be secure with the buffet designs
before they start to build the pieces. They will work on
several dessert ideas in January and refine from there.
The beginning is probably the most difficult part in the
process. The year goes quickly so they need to think
carefully through each step and focus on
working efficiently.
Are we on schedule and what are our chances
at this point?
A. The team has a schedule of target dates for 2008. It
is a tight schedule, so they need to stay focused. Being
a serious group, they will make it happen. They have a
strong support system surrounding them. At this point,
their chances are as good as the other 19 teams. Like the
others, it will be up to them to do their best. What really
counts is how they feel, especially mentally, at their last
practice in December and in the days leading up to the
competition. I am very confident that they will represent
America well and achieve their goals.
Model wearing creation

by Chef Steve Evetts.
Kim Rothrock is a
consultant to the
specialty foods and
foodservice industry.
With over 20 years
experience n the
field as pastry chef in
a number of award
winning New York
restaurants and with
companies such as
Balducci, Dean &
Deluca and
Dairyland. Kim is
especially sensitive
to trends and
product development
in pastry.
Photos courtesy of
Hall PR, NYC
10 | February 2008 |
Recipe for the Runway

Lights, Camera, Melt?
by Kim Rothrock
Chef Zac Young struts

down the catwalk
Chef Martan Howard

and his autumn
innovation
Ingredients:
Chocolate
Fashion Designer
Pastry Chef or Chocolatier
Method:
Designer and Chef collaborate to
create fashion concept. Chef executes
fashion concept in chocolate and
chocolate products.
presentation:
15 minutes prior to fashion show, apply
chocolate ensemble components to
model.
The 10th Annual New York Chocolate Shows opening night eventthe
Chocolate Fashion Showis not a competition, but a celebration of creative and
technical chocolate skills that pairs pastry chefs and chocolatiers with fashion
designers to create edible ensembles for the runway. The event benefits City
Harvest, a food rescue organization dedicated to feeding the citys hungry.
Chef RichardCapizzi
with his model
Designers & Chef/Chocolatiers:

Carmen Marc Valvo and Yvan Lemoine of iFood Studios
Michael Plosky and Martin Howard of Brasserie 8 1/2
Abaete and Richard Capizzi of Per Se Restaurant
Adam Ciafarani and Steve Evetts, Marriott Hotel
Adrienne Toubbeh and Stevie Famulari, Sugart
Catalin Varga and Ortrud Carstens, Haute Chocolature
Irina Shabayeva with Tim Brown and Joshua Needleman, Chocolate Springs
Jessie Lyric and Bethany Thouin, Bethany: Chocolatier
Nicole Romano and Zac Young, Butter Restaurant
Tim Brown and Joshua

Needleman
Feature Story
Silicone Simplicity
Susan Notter, Pastry Chef Consultant
Modern art with minimal effort
Susan_Notter@yahoo.com
Michael Joy, Chicago School of Mold Making

Joy@ChicagoMoldSchool.com
Produced by Beatrice Schneider
ome chefs have the ability to make things look easy.

Pastry Chef Susan Notter is one of these people. She
is among a growing number of pastry chefs being
asked to provide an artistic bridge between classical hand
skills and innovative new casting techniques. As a
seasoned competitor, Susan knows judges want to
see strength in hand skills such as pulled and blown
sugar. She also recognizes that they want to be
surprised with new designs and techniques.
Chef Notter has coauthored several books and

travels the world teaching a wide range of
pastry classes. She knows rst hand the creative
challenges todays chefs face in professional
kitchens. With less time and higher expectations as
the norm, we want to help bring some balance back
into the equation. To help chefs meet this challenge,
Chef Notter and I will demonstrate two versatile
techniques. The rst is a quick and easy way to
make custom silicone shapes and the second is
a fast-track casting technique. The results
will startle you with how easy it is to
achieve individual, creative results in
a short period of time.
2. Cut out the paper shapes.

Three designs (from a book of symbols)
are copied and enlarged. Next, the inside
shapes are cut out.
3. Transfer the images to foam core.

Before transferring the images, cut the
foam core into a manageable 8 x 11
section. This is the same size as the
acetate you will place beneath it in
photograph 8.
4. Cut out the shapes.

With a new blade, cut out the foam core
shapes. Next, cut connecting lines between all three shapes. This will create a
multi-piece template that can be separated to release your silicone shapes.
5. Sand the edges smooth.

Using an emery board or sand paper,
smooth the inside surfaces. The edges
dont have to be perfect, but they should
not be jagged or rough. (Do not sand in an
area where food is prepared.)
6. Seal the foam edges with glue.

Use Elmers craft glue to seal the inside
foam edges. Feed the glue onto the edge
and then smooth it with your nger.
When dry, the layer of glue will reduce
the porosity of the foam. (Glue has been
pigmented for clarity.)
7. Apply Vaseline as a release agent.

Once the glue has completely dried (two
hours or so), apply a thin layer of Vaseline
to the inside surfaces. Only a thin glaze
of Vaseline is needed. Do not apply a thick
gloppy coat or it may inhibit the cure of
your silicone.
8. Reassemble the template.

Not shown: A sheet of acetate is taped into
a new sheetpan. Next, apply drops of
Elmers glue to hold down the foam core
to the acetate surface. (Without acetate,
the silicone will stick to the sheetpan.)
9. Press the foam core at.

To ensure a tight contact surface between
the foam core and acetate, small bags of
rice are used to weigh it down. Allow the
glue to dry for several hours.
Pastry Educaiton
1. Primary materials needed:

Flex & Bake silicone, thick foam core,
Elmers glue, Vaseline, scissors, X-Acto
knife, acetate sheet.
Pastry Education
10. Mix the silicone.

From the Flex & Bake starter kit, 200
grams of base are weighed out. When
using liquid silicone materials, gloves and
safety glasses should be worn. Do not mix
or pour in areas where food is prepared.
11. Add the catalyst.

Flex & Bake silicone is mixed in a ratio
of 10:1 by weight. To complete the batch,
20 grams of catalyst (purple) are added to
the base. Mix until a uniform violet color
is achieved.
12. Pour the silicone.

To reduce air bubbles, pour the silicone
in a slow, thin stream (needling). Most
bubbles will stretch and burst before
entering the form. It is alright for some
small air bubbles to remain on the surface.
13. Allow the silicone to cure.

24-36 hours later, the foam is ipped
over and unmolded. If the silicone is still
tacky (cold rooms can slow the cure),
do not unmold. Place entire sheetpan in
a 100F oven (or warm area) for several
hours. Leave alone until silicone rms.
14. Clean up the silicone shapes.

Fiskars curved-tip craft scissors are the
best for trimming ash (excess silicone)
from the edges. Remember to save your
foam core template. It can be used again.
15. Post-cure the silicone.

Before using your silicone shapes, wash
them in warm soapy water and bake
them in an oven at 300F for 3 hours.
This is necessary to complete the cure of
Flex & Bake silicone.
16. Prepare for casting.

On a sheet of vinyl, two silicone Noodles
are contoured around the silicone shapes.
When casting on vinyl, always put
parchment paper beneath it. Otherwise,
the vinyl will stick to your table.
17. Pour the black Isomalt.

First, Chef Susan Notter cooks and
pigments the Isomalt. Next, she adds
a teaspoon of pearlescent powder and
swirls it into the pot before pouring the
Isomalt into the Noodle forms.
18. Add clear Isomalt for a special effect.

Chef Notter pours a small amount of clear
Isomalt into the forms. The clear Isomalt
will enhance the metallic effect. At the
same time, she lls the (back right) corner
shape with clear Isomalt.
20. Unmold the Noodles.

The Isomalt is allowed to cool for at least
thirty minutes before the silicone Noodles
are removed.
21. Remove the silicone shapes.

Chef Notter carefully removes the silicone
inserts.
22. Remove the embedded shapes.

The red casting is ipped over to expose
the encapsulated silicone inserts (see step
16). Chef Notter uses a scissor tip to help
pry the shape out.
23. Peel the vinyl off the casting.

Since the black casting is more delicate,
Chef Notter pulls the vinyl downwards
off the edge of the table. Pulling the vinyl
down and away from the sugar is better
than trying to pry it up off the vinyl.
24. Compose the sugar elements.

When working with bold, geometric
shapes, Chef Notter comments, Dont
be overly fussy with extra decoration.
Beautiful results can be had quickly when
you keep your designs clean and simple.
25. Second composition.

With the remaining elements from the
pour, Chef Notter builds a second amenity.
Once again, it is a simple, non-fussy design
that creates a strong effect.
26. Result!
Notice how Chef Notter placed a bright
red sugar sphere to draw your eye to
the front of the piece. Add a few trufes
and the result is rst class. Look at that
metallic effect when the light hits it!
27. Encore !
Two simple shapes + two simple colors =
one VIP amenity ready to go! Thank you,
Chef Notter for sharing your artistic skills.
To learn more about casting, visit Tips &
Tools at www.ChicagoMoldSchool.com.
Pastry Educaiton
19. Pour the red Isomalt.

Isomalt is cooked and pigmented red.
Next, a teaspoon of white pearlescent
powder is swirled into the pitcher.
While pouring very slowly, Chef Notter
completely covers the silicone shapes.
INNOVATIVE DESSERTS
FROM ITALY
AUTHORS RISOTTO
Tao risotto
Rice creams
Two risottos prepared simultaneously with cuttlefish broth

White whisked with extra-virgin olive oil with aged Pecorino
cheese
Black sepia toasted rice whisked with extra-virgin olive oil with
Pecorino cheese
cuttlefish broth
water
rice starch
sugar
extra-virgin olive oil
Cuttlefish gelato
cream milk
skimmed milk powder
glucose powder
dextrose
stabilizer
salt
roasted cuttlefish
fresh cream
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
500
350
130
30
100
In order to obtain the 4 different creams to decorate the plate,

add, to taste, saffron, basil, liquorice and tomato.
460
56
30
130
8
6
200
110
RISOTTO
A traditional Italian dish which can be prepared with a suitable
variety of rice such as Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. It is one
of the most common ways of cooking rice in Italy. It is first cooked
briefly in butter or olive oil until evenly coated and the rice starts to
turn translucent, before the broth is added, one ladle at a time.
Warm the milk with the dextrose, the glucose and the cream
milk. Let it thicken on the heat, then add the roasted cuttlefish.
Mix well and let it cool. Add the fresh cream and cream it.
* For the sepia gelato, add 6 g of fresh cuttlefish ink.
sepia (cuttlefish ink) black risotto
extra-virgin oil white risotto

liquorice rice cream
tomato rice cream

black sepia gelato
basil rice cream
roasted cuttlefish
saffron rice cream
Magazine Excerpt
cuttle fish gelato
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
GIROTONNO
tuna fish mood
Candied tuna fish

Salted tuna fish candied in olive oil at 43C for 8 minutes.
Smoked tuna fish
Filet tuna fish marinated in salt and sugar for 12 hours, flavoured
with smoked aromatic herbs for 40 minutes.
Tuna fish tartar*
Natural fresh tuna fish finely minced and seasoned with extra-virgin olive oil and red orange juice.
* Finely chopped raw meat or fish, optionally with seasonings and
sauces.
Bottarga gelato
water
skimmed milk powder
glucose powder
dextrose
stabilizer
salt
oil
tuna fish bottarga*
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
560
110
60
140
8
8
80
40
Warm the milk and add sugar and salt. Dissolve the glucose in
water and some milk, and incorporate to the first batter, still on
the heat, and keep stirring. Let it cool and add the tuna fish bottarga, the cream, the dextrose, the stabilizer and the oil, then
cream.
*Salted product treasured in Sardinia and Sicily, sometimes called poor mans caviar.
Sea granita
microfiltered sea water
water
sugar
gelatine
g
g
g
g
120
5
5
2
Soften the gelatine in cold water for 15 minutes, then dissolve it

in hot sea water; add the sugar let it cool and put in the freezer.
These two recipes are from the Buontalenti Gold Trophy 2007
chef Luca Landi
www.greenparkresort.com
gelatomaker Mauro Petrini
www.gelato.it
THE ITALIAN ENTREMET
at the Coupe du Monde de la Ptisserie 2007

JESSICA
Hazelnut crunchy mass

potato flour
hazelnut powder
30B sugar syrup
water
chocolate entremet
Magazine Excerpt
Gianduja nougatine
hazelnut pralin
40% Jivara chocolate
hazelnut crunchy mass
fleur de sel salt
g
g
g
g
200
150
240
2
Melt the chocolate at 45C; add all the other ingredients and mix;
add salt and melt. Spread the crunchy mass 5 mm thick to obtain
14 and 16 cm diameter disks. Put them in rings of the same diameter, 4 cm high, lined with acetate.
g
g
g
g
50
150
200
30
Mix all the ingredients and spread them 4 mm thick on a Silpat.

Bake in the oven at 160C for 15-20 minutes; let it cool, then
crumble.
Jivara chocolate cremeux
milk
cream
yolks
sugar
40% Jivara chocolate
g
g
g
g
g
400
300
150
50
45
Bring milk and cream to the boil; whip the yolks with sugar; add the
boiling liquids and cook at 82C. Add the gelatine and pour onto
the melted chocolate, obtaining an emulsion, using a mixer. Pour
140 g of cremeux into the 14 cm diameter ring, and 160 g into the
16 cm ring. Blast chill.
Chocolate biscuit
yolks
sugar
invert sugar
egg whites
sugar
dehydrated egg whites
flour
starch
Xocoice 84%*
cocoa
warm milk
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
300
160
40
375
120
2
70
50
180
20
180
Whip the yolks with 160 g of sugar and invert sugar; sieve the flour
and the starch, and warm the milk up. Whip the egg whites with
120 g of sugar. Emulsify the milk with Xocoice and cocoa; lighten
with some egg whites. Add the remaining egg whites to the yolks,
then the flour and the light mass. With the help of a scraper spread on a Silpat and bake in the oven at 220-230C (steam intake
valve off) for 7-8 minutes. Take the biscuit out from the oven and
cool. Make two disks of 14 cm and 16 cm diameter, put them on
the cremeux and blast chill.
*Xocoice 84% Valrhona is a chocolate powder with a low content
of cocoa butter, ideal for gelato.
Mango and passion fruit mou caramel
sugar
cream
butter
mango pure
passion fruit juice
vanilla
water
gelatine
g
g
g
g
g
no.
g
g
210
75
75
100
50
1
30
5
Cook up to 104C.
Caramelize the sugar, add the cream and the butter, then the fruits.
Cook again up to 105C; add the gelatine and strain. Mix dipping
and pour 110 g into the ring of 14 cm of diamter and 130 g into
the ring of 16 cm. Blast chill.
Guanaja chocolate
mousse
gianduja nougatine
tiramisu cream
mango mou caramel
and passion fruit
Jivara chocolate cremeux
Mascarpone cheese
milk
sugar
yolks
espresso coffee
g
g
g
g
g
600
100
75
60
15
Pasteurize the yolks with sugar up to 65C; add the coffee and pour
the mixture onto the Mascarpone cheese and add the milk; work in
a planetary mixer. Pour 200 g of the cream into the ring of 14 cm
of diameter and 240 g into the ring of 16 cm. Finish with the biscuit
and blast chill.
Guanaja chocolate mousse
milk
yolks
sugar
70% Guanaja chocolate
whipped cream
g
g
g
g
g
400
250
150
600
1000
Bring the milk to boil, whip the yolks with the sugar; pour the boiling milk and cook at 82C; pour onto the melted chocolate, creating the emulsion. When the mixture reaches 45C add the whipped cream. Prepare two rings of 16 cm and two of 14 cm of diameter. Remove from the previous rings and put the fillings in the centre, pour the chocolate mousse and blast chill.
Angelo Di Masso
www.deliziepandellorso.com
Fabrizio Donatone
www.fabriziodonatone.com
Fabrizio Galla
www.fabriziogalla.it
Magazine Excerpt
chocolate icing
chocolate biscuit
Tiramis cream
All you need to know about the

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PLATED DESSERTS WITH GELATO
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Hot Chocolate
Recipe created by James W. Mullaney
Recipe yieild: 25 80 ml servings
Flourless Chocolate Cake
(Makes 25 mini-muffin Flexipans.

Bake in a water bath)
70
ml Heavy cream
284 g Butter
170 g Sugar, granulated
142 g Couverture, 65 %
50
g Cocoa powder
2
Vanilla bean, scraped
4
Whole eggs
Boil the butter, cream and sugar. Pour over
the couverture, vanilla bean and cocoa
powder, mix well. Add the eggs. Pour into
Flexipans, fill halfway. Bake: 250 F (120
C) for 20-25 minutes.
Combine the cocoa powder and milk, mix

well, no lumps. Place the sugar, cream and
scraped vanilla beans into a sauce pot and
bring to a scald. Add the cocoa powder/milk
mixture, bring back to a scald.
Mix the butter, cream cheese, sugar, baking

powder, vanilla extract and sea salt until
creamed. Add the yolks in stages, scrape
after each addition. Sift the flour and add
to the mixture. Mix well. Whip the whites to
a meringue, fold in. Spread, bake, cool, cut
into small consistent cubes. Toast to a crunchy
crouton.
James W. Mullaney
is the Executive
Pastry Chef at
The Cloister at Sea
Island in Georgia.
He is also winner of
the 2005 National
Pastry Championship.
Photos courtesy of
James W. Mullaney
Assembly
Place small linen napkins on a long rectangular
plate. Place the croutons into a ramekin on
the left side of the plate. Place a ramekin of
sweetened whipped cream on the right side of
the plate. On the far right, place a ramekin of
fresh raspberries garnished with shredded gold
leaf. Place a disc of the flourless chocolate cake
into the bottom of a coffee cup, pour the hot
chocolate over the cake and serve immediately.
Chef Recipe
Hot Chocolate
454 g Milk
145 g Cocoa powder
510 ml Sugar, granulated
910 ml Heavy cream
2
Vanilla bean
Cream Cheese Pound Cake Croutons

340 g Butter
225 g Cream cheese
454 g Sugar, granulated
8
g Baking Powder
15
g Vanilla extract
8
g Sea salt
6
Egg yolks
340 g Cake flour
6
Egg whites
cranberry en coulis:
1 Cranberry Meringue
Recipe created by Teddy Cadars

Recipe yield: Two cakes
Biscuit Sacher
M elt 80 g of 72% dark couverture with

105 g of butter and whisk until smooth.
Fold in 120 g of egg whites that have
been beaten with 65g of sugar, then
add 130g of egg yolks.
L ightly fold in a sifted mixture of 20 g of
cocoa powder, 50 g of powdered sugar
and 25 g of flour.
S pread in 2 frames 23 x 3 s 1 ,
bake in a 335 F (170 C) degree oven
for about 10 minutes.
Cranberry Coulis
Bring 280 g of cranberry pure to a boil
with 200 g of pear pure and
150 g of sugar, adding 100g of
cornstarch dissolved in 25g of water
(photo #1).
Bring the mixture to a boil again and
add 60 g of cocoa butter, whisk until
smooth and pour it immediately over a
pistachio dacquoise in a frame

23 x 3 x 1 ; freeze.
Lime Meringue
B ring 150 g of sugar with 120 g of water
to 250 F (120 C).
Pour onto 75 g egg whites that have
been beaten with the zest of half a lime,
beat until cool; use immediately.
Orange Chocolate Cream
P repare a pastry cream made with
120 g of orange pure with chocolate
and orange zests, 20 g of egg yolk,
30 g of sugar and 10 g of flan cream
powder.
O ff the heat, add 8 leaves of gelatin
soaked and drained (20 g); cool.
F old in 500 g of whipped cream and
90 g of Italian meringue; use
immediately.
ASSEMBLY
In a 23 x 3 x 1 frame, place a
layer of biscuit sacher, then a layer of
orange chocolate cream (photo #2),
then a pistachio dacquoise and then the
cranberry coulis (photo #3).
Continue filling the frame with the
orange chocolate cream, finishing with
a biscuit sacher; chill.
Finishing and Presentation
Remove the frame and cover the cake
with the lime meringue, combing in
a design and caramelizing with a
torch. Decorate with dried cranberries,
chocolate decorations and gold leaf.
candied cranberry:
Cranberry Macaroon
Recipe yield: For about 12 persons
Macaroon
Candied Cranberries
Bring the following ingredients to a boil:
100 g of lemon juice, 300 g orange
juice, 100 g cranberry nectar, 1 vanilla
bean split and scraped, 2 cinnamon
sticks, 5 g fresh ginger, the zest of
half a lemon, 30 g of piloncillo (brown
Mexican sugar) and 400 g sugar
(photo #1).
Add 130 g of frozen cranberries and

bring to a boil for about 10 minutes,
then cover with plastic wrap and let cool
about 12 hours and drain.
Add 85 g of sugar to the syrup, bring
to a boil, add the cranberries and cook
about 3 minutes; cool. Repeat this
operation again with another 85 g of
sugar.
Dark Chocolate Cream
P repare a crme anglaise with

100 g of cranberry nectar, 150 g of
cream, 3 egg yolks and 50 g of sugar.
Pour (photo #2) over 340 g of 72% dark
chocolate, whisk to blend and after
cooling fold in 450 g of whipped cream
and 60 g of candied cranberries.
S et aside, covered with plastic wrap in
contact with the surface.
ASSEMBLY
On a macaroon base, spread a thin layer
of dark chocolate cream, cover with thin
slices of mango, then pipe over them with
the chocolate cream in a pastry bag with
plain tip #7 (photo #3). Sprinkle with
candied cranberries, top with a second
macaroon.
Brush the mango with a neutral glaze
and decorated with gold leaf.
In a food processor, finely grind

250 g of almond powder with 250 g
of powdered sugar, adding red food
coloring and 95 g of egg whites.
B ring 250 g of sugar to 250 F (120
C) with 85 g of water. Pour over 95 g of
beaten egg whites and continue to beat
until cold then fold in the first mixture.
Pipe oval shaped meringues, bake
about 7 minutes in a 375 F (190 C)
oven, then for 7 minutes in a 340 F
(170 C) oven.
cranberry in ganache:
3 Chocolate Cranberry Bar

Recipe yield: About 86 pieces
Cranberry Ganache
M ake a light dry caramel with 50 g

brown sugar, 150 g white sugar, 65 g
of honey and 1 vanilla bean split and
scraped, deglazing with 320 g of hot
cream and 130 g of butter (photo #1).
Pour over 250 g of milk chocolate
and 780 g of dark chocolate, whisk
to blend. Add 350 g of cranberry
pure, whisk again. With a rubber
spatula, fold in 10 g of dried chopped
cranberries (photo #2), whisk until
smooth; chill.
Dried Cranberries
Coarsely chop fresh cranberries and
then dry them on parchment paper in
the oven for about 30 minutes at
200 F (90 C).
ASSEMBLY
Place a frame (13 x 13 x ) over
a plastic guitar sheet that has been
spread with a thin layer of dark
chocolate. Cover with the cranberry
ganache and let crystallize for about
12 hours.
With the aid of a guitar, cut 3 x 1
rectangles and enrobe them with milk
chocolate (photo #3) then marble
them with white and red cocoa butter.
Spray with white and red glitter (P.C.B.
Creation).
We would like to thank the Cranberry Marketing Committee and the Sicoly, Silvarem and Alpes Jus companies for their helpful collaboration.
Partner Recipe
Partner Recipe
Awarded Meilleur
Ouvrier de France
ptissier (Best
pastry maker in
France) in 2000,
Stphane Glacier
is an independent
pastry consultant
and author of aMeilleurs Ouvriers de France
number of books
(available through
Stphane GLACIER
Gatan PARIS
Awarded Meilleur
Ouvrier de France
ptissier (Best
pastry maker in
France) in 2000,
Stphane Glacier
is an independent
pastry consultant
and author of a
number of books,
including this excerpt from his most
recent Verrines et
Petits-Gateaux
available at.
www.stephaneglacier.com
French and English text

29
TropicalTropical
VerrinesVerrines
Verrine
desdes
Tropiques
Verrine
Tropiques
Crme coco
Crme coco
Coconut cream
Coconut cream
Dacquoise
coco
Dacquoise
coco
Coconut Dacquoise
Coconut Dacquoise
Coulis glifi
mangue
Coulis
glifi passion
mangue passion
Jellyfied mango
& passion
fruit
Jellyfied
mango
& pure
passion fruit pure
Boucle chocolat,Boucle chocolat,

fruits rouges, menthe
fruits rouges, menthe
Chocolate curl, red
fruit, curl, red fruit,
Chocolate
mint leaf
mint leaf
Coulis gelifi Coulis gelifi

mangue passionmangue passion
Jellyfied mango and
passion
Jellyfied
mango and passion
fruit pure
fruit pure
Crme coco
Crme coco
Coconut cream Coconut cream
Recipe Book Excerpt
Coulis gelifi Coulis gelifi

mangue passionmangue passion
Jellyfied mango and
Jellyfied mango and
passion fruit pure
passion fruit pure
Dacquoise coco Dacquoise coco
Coconut Dacquoise
Coconut Dacquoise
Crme coco
Crme coco
Coconut cream Coconut cream
64 l Les Verrines
64 l Les Verrines
29
Petit Antoine
Le PetitLe
Antoine
Le Petit
Antoine
Le Petit
Antoine
Croustillant
Croustillant
pralin pralin
Praline(crispy
croustillant
(crispy praline)
Praline croustillant
praline)
Dacquoise
Dacquoise
noisette noisette
Hazelnut Dacquoise
Hazelnut Dacquoise
CrmeuxCrmeux
chocolat chocolat
Chocolate cream
Chocolate cream
chocolat lait
PlaquettePlaquette
chocolat lait
Milk
chocolate block
Milk chocolate
block
chocolat lait
Chantilly Chantilly
chocolat lait
Milk
chocolate Chantilly
Milk chocolate
Chantilly
Rosace de chantilly,
Rosace de chantilly,
fil dor
chocolat, feuille dor
fil chocolat, feuille
Chantilly swirl, Chantilly swirl,
chocolate ribbon, chocolate
gold leaf ribbon, gold leaf
Chantilly chocolatChantilly
au lait chocolat au lait
Milk chocolate chantilly
Milk chocolate chantilly
Recipe Book Excerpt
Couverture
chocolat lait
Couverture chocolat
lait
Milk chocolate couverture
Crmeux chocolat
Crmeux chocolat
Chocolate cream Chocolate cream
Dacquoise noisette
Dacquoise noisette
Hazelnut Dacquoise
Hazelnut Dacquoise
Croustillant praline
Croustillant praline
Praline croustillantPraline croustillant
118 l Les Petits-Gteaux

Contemporains
118 l Les Petits-Gteaux
Contemporains
www.pastrysbest.com
31| 33
400 g
150 g
35% fat whipped cream

Meringue
Boil the milk and cream, then pour onto

the egg whites. Incorporate into the
chocolates, heated to 50C. Blitz in a food
processor.
Mix the ganache into the whipped cream.
Pour the mixture into the meringue and mix
delicately. Spread into two 1000g moulds.
Light poppy cream
Crme ptissire
293 g Full cream milk
88
g 35% fat cream
2
g Vanilla pod
29
g Caster sugar
2
g Crme ptissire stabiliser
59
g Egg yolks
24
g Powdered cream
2
g 150 Bloom powdered gelatine
12
g Water
Boil the milk, cream and vanilla with the
previously mixed sugar and stabiliser.
Blanch the egg yolks with the sugar and
powdered cream. Loosen the mixture with
the hot milk, then pour into a saucepan.
Cook the mixture until it begins to bubble.
Fold in the previously hydrated and heated
gelatine. Cover with cling film and leave to
cool on a very cold baking sheet.
COQUELICOT
(Chocolate and Griottines dessert with poppy cream)
Recipe created by Olivier Bajard
World Champion in the Art of Dessert, MOF in Ptisserie
Chocolate pte sable

88
g Softened butter
32
g Icing sugar
1
g Fine salt
70
g Fine flour (type 55)
10
g 10% fat cocoa powder
Beat together the butter, icing sugar
and salt. Fold in the flour and cocoa
powder, previously sifted together, and
mix. Roll out the dough to 0.3cm. Bake
at 150C for 20 minutes. Seal with
mycryo cocoa butter.
Chef Recipe
Chocolate sponge
100
50
25
25
50
25
25
25
125
2
63
2
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
Egg whites
Whole eggs
Invert sugar (trimoline)
Caster sugar
Fine flour (type 55)
10% fat cocoa powder
Clarified butter
Sambirano cocoa paste
Beaten egg whites
Powdered egg whites
Caster sugar
Fine salt
Whisk the eggs, yolks and sugars to a

ribbon consistency. Beat the egg whites
with the sugar, salt and powdered egg
whites to soft peaks. Fold in the flour
and cocoa powder, previously sifted
together, into A. Incorporate the butter
and cocoa paste heated to 50C into A
+ B. Incorporate half the meringue into
A + B + C. Mix the preparation into the
second half of the meringue. Pour into
a dessert ring. Cook in a pulse oven at
155C for 25 minutes. Once cold, cut
into two 0.7cm thick slices.
Meringue for the mousses
84
g Caster sugar
141 g Beaten egg whites
Beat the egg whites to soft peaks with
the sugar.
Chocolate Mousse
100
50
120
150
75
g
g
g
g
g
Full cream milk

35% fat cream
Egg yolks
70% couverture
Cocoa paste
75
488
53
150
12
g
g
g
g
g
Meringue
Crme ptissire
Nemours poppy aroma
35% fat whipped cream
Water
Whisk the chilled cream until thickened.

Whip until frothy. Add the flavouring at
the end. Fold the crme ptissire into the
whipped
cream. Add the cold meringue. Put 1500g
mixture into each mould.
Chocolate Icing
125 g 70% Tannea couverture
38
g Sambirano cocoa paste
100 g Unsweetened concentrated

semi-skimmed milk
10
g Sorbitol crystal E42
15
g Crystal dextrose
175 g 35% fat cream
25
g Butter
Heat the milk and sugars. Melt the
couvertures to 50C. Incorporate the hot
milk and the cream at room temperature
into the couvertures, then blitz in a food
processor.Ice the dessert at 27 - 30C.
Assembly
Ganache glaze sprayed with a pistolet

Chocolate mousse
Chocolate sponge
Fresh strawberry coulis
Poppy cream and Griottines
Chocolate sponge
Chocolate pte sable
Ha zelnut Feuillantine
(makes 1
100 g
185 g
185 g
185 g
35
g
35
g
60 x 40 cm sheet)
Almond/hazelnut pralin
Hazelnut paste
Pailletine
Caramelised hazelnuts, chopped
Butter
Melt the couverture. Mix the pralin and

hazelnut paste. Delicately mix the pailletine
and hazelnuts. Spread on to 2 sheets of
greaseproof paper. Chill in the freezer.
Cut into discs the same diameter as the
glasses.
Hazelnut cream
25
g Milk couverture
100 g Almond/hazelnut pralin
50
g Hazelnut paste
125 g Whipped cream
Melt the couverture and fold in the pralin
and hazelnut cream. Delicately mix in the
whipped cream.
Lemon cream
60
g Lemon juice
50
g Sugar
50
g Eggs
37
g Egg yolks
5
g Butter
grated zest of lemon
In a bain-marie, heat together the lemon
juice, zest, sugar, whole eggs and yolks.
Cook, whisking, to 85 C, then pass
through a chinois.
Hazelnut Crumble
90
g Butter
100 g Flour
55
g Ground unskinned hazelnuts
45
g Icing sugar
2
g Salt
Mix all the ingredients to a sandy
consistency. Cook on Silpat at 150 C until
blond all through.
Garnish
350 g Griottines
200 g Caramelised hazelnuts
Assembly
Fill the glasses with hazelnut cream using a
piping bag. Place a feuillantine disc on top.
Scatter on some Griottines mixed with
caramelised hazelnuts and top with
another feuillantine disc. Pour on the
lemon cream. Cover with hazelnut crumble.
Decorate with Griottines Dcor (with their
stalks).
ATTRACTION
Recipe created by Laurent Duchene, MOF in Ptisserie
Recipe yeild: 10 glasses
RECIPE REQUIREMENT
Griottines
Chef Recipe
From the largest processor of fruit in

alcohol in the world, Les Grandes
Distilleries Peureux, comes the Wild
Cherry in Brandy called the Griottine.
Available from
770-252-6377 or www.pastrynet.com
Creative
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can purchase directly online!
Product &
Service
Guide
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Fax 770-252-6996
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www.pastrynet.com
Pistachio Crme
Brule Verrine
Recipe created by Theodore Pary, Chef Owner, Pastry Star
Recipe yeild: 18 10 ounce serving dishes
(3 to 3.5 oz of each gele and 5 oz. crme brule)
First Layer (Bottom)

Apricot Gele
1.5
225
36
50
kg
g
g
g
Apricot pure
Sugar
Gelatin sheets (7)
Lemon juice
Bloom gelatin by putting gelatin sheets in a

bowl and fill with water to just cover them.
Combine the apricot pure with the sugar
in a pot and heat to dissolve the sugar.
Once the sugar is completely dissolved
remove from the heat. Squeeze excess
water out of gelatin and place in heated
pure, stir and let dissolve. Add lemon
juice and pour into desired serving vessel.
Let set until completely firm.
Second Layer (Middle)
Fruits of the Forrest Berry Gele
1.5 kg Juice from thawed and strained

Fruits of the Forrest
225 g Sugar
36
g Gelatin sheets (7)
50
g Lemon Juice
Bloom gelatin by putting gelatin sheets in a
bowl and fill with water to just cover them.
Combine the Berry Juice with the sugar in
a pot and heat to dissolve the sugar. Once
the sugar is completely dissolved remove
from the heat. Squeeze excess water out
of gelatin and place in heated juice, stir
and let dissolve. Add lemon juice and let
cool. Pour over apricot gele and let set
until firm.
Chef Recipe
Third Layer (Top)

Pistachio Crme Brule
250 g Crme brule base
100 g Pastry cream base
1.5 kg Whole milk
460 g Heavy cream
350 g Pistachio paste
PastryStar Ingredients used:

Apricot Pure (PS04329)
Fruits of the Forest (PS05249)
Gelatin Sheets (PS00214)
Crme Brule (PS00120)
Pastry Cream Supreme (PS00106)
Pistachio Paste (PS30045)
Place the pastry cream base along with a

small amount of the milk in a bowl and mix
to make thick pancake consistency. Place
the remaining dairy products in a pot with
the pistachio paste and heat to a short boil.
Pour the brule base mix into the heated
dairy and mix while bringing back to
another short boil. Let the mixture cool a
bit and pour over the IQF Gele. Let stand
for at least 3 hours to set up completely.
Decorate with sugar.
Boston Cream Cake

Recipe created by Theodore Pary, Chef Owner, Pastry Star
SPONGE CAKE
1.5 kg Vanilla sponge cake base

900 g Whole eggs (room temperature)
480 g Warm water
Pour all ingredients into a mixing bowl
fitted with a whip and mix on high speed
for 8 minutes. Pour mixture into a sheet
pan. Be sure to level the top with a straight
edge utensil to achieve evenness and let
stand 15 minutes before baking. Bake 4 to
8 minutes at 400 F (205 C), watching the
cake bake and testing it for springiness.
When touching the cake it should feel firm
and bounce back to shape. Once cake
has cooled, cut circles using a cake ring of
desired size.
Joconde Cake
580 g Joconde sponge base
300 g Whole eggs
160 g Water
80
g Butter (melted)
In a mixing bowl fitted with a whip,
combine Joconde Sponge Base, eggs and
water for 8 minutes on high speed. Turn
mixer to slow speed and slowly add melted
butter. Let stand for 15 minutes before
baking.
Joconde Decoration
100 g Butter (room temperature)
100 g Powdered sugar
100 g Egg whites (room temperature)
100 g Flour
In a mixing bowl fitted with a paddle, mix
butter and powdered sugar at low speed
and without incorporating air. Then mix
in whites until fully incorporated. Finally
add flour. When coloring or adding cocoa
powder, you should add it at this point.
Once all of the ingredients are mixed
together, spread evenly on a Silpat and
drag design comb through. Let stand in
freezer until firm.Once firm, cover with
joconde mix, spreading very evenly. Let
stand for 15 minutes before baking. Bake
at 400 F (205 C) for 6 to 10 minutes,
watching it carefully.
Make the pastry cream by mixing the

Crme Supreme base with the water and
heavy cream. Whisk for 3 minutes at high
Assembly
1. Assemble cake by placing the cake ring
on a cake board and lining the cake ring
with plastic confectioners ribbon so the
cake will not stick.
2. Line the decorated joconde strip, cutting
a little long in case of shrinkage.
3. Place one layer of cake at the bottom of
the ring and then cover with a thick layer
of the rum pastry cream mix, leaving
enough room for one more cake layer.
4. Place second cake layer on top and
cover with chocolate glaze or PastryStar
Shokoshine.
5. Heat Shokoshine and very quickly pour
a small amount onto the cake and
quickly spread over entire cake. (Note:
the Shokoshine sets up very fast so it is
important to work quickly.)
PastryStar Ingredients used:

Joconde Cake Base (PS00252)
Sponge Cake Base (PS00250)
Pastry Cream Base (PS00101)
Rum Flavor (PS00071)
Shoko-shine Glaze (PS10907)
Chef Recipe
Boston Cream Filling

360 g Crme supreme base
800 g Water (cold)
200 g Heavy cream
200 g Whipped heavy cream
85
g Powdered sugar
30
g Insta-gel
10
g Rum flavor
speed until shiny and smooth. Mix the

powdered sugar with the Insta-gel, set
aside. Whip heavy cream to soft peak and
pour in powdered sugar, Insta-gel mix
just before cream is to soft peak. Fold the
whipped cream into the pastry cream mix
and add rum flavor.
raditional breads and pastries satisfy and soothe

the soul on many levels. If all goes well, the baked
goods look, smell, feel, and taste great. However,
beneath the veneer of sensorial perception, there is
another level of satisfaction reserved for appreciative
and discriminating consumers as well as artisan
bakers.
KUGELHOPF
by Mitch Stamm
Using traditional ingredients and processes forged with

modern technology,it is rewarding to link the past to
the present while looking to the future. It is fulfilling
to study the history and cultural lore that surround
these products, but when the written and oral histories
collide, it can be even more exciting. The dialogue
that ensues is motivating, stimulating, and even
entertaining to baking enthusiasts.
Shrouded Origins
Mitch Stamm is an
instructor at Johnson
& Wales University
in the College of
Culinary Arts at the
International Baking
and pastry Institute
where he specialized
in artisan breads
and pastry. In addition, he teaches
plated desserts and
baking formula
and technology. He
frequently provides
consulting and training to restaurants
and hotels.
Photos courtesy of
Mitch Stamm
Take Kugelhopf. Or is it kugelhupf, kougelhopf,

kouglof, gugelhopf, gugelhupf, gouglehopf, or cougelhof?
There are as many spellings as there are stories
surrounding the origin of this popular cake. And
even more recipes. Germany, Hungary, Switzerland,
France, Austria, and Poland have fables, lore, and
traditions surrounding kugelhopf. It is so popular in
some regions that there are kougelhopf festivals with
amateur and professional competitions to determine
the best in the land.

The only point of agreement seems to be the fluted
molds, called Turks heads and/or turbans, in which
they are baked. Some say that the molds resemble
the turbans worn by the Turkish invaders of Austria.
The cake was created to commemorate the victory
by the Austrians after the bakers awakened the
sleeping city and the attack was successfully repelled.
Wait a minute; weve heard the same story for years
about the origin of the croissant; that it derived its
shape from the crescent on the Turkish flag after the
bakers sounded the same alarm. These vagaries and
inconsistencies have fueled the debate waged among
bakers working (fittingly) all night.

Another, more plausible theory is that the mold
resembles the headdresses worn by the women of
Eastern Europe. The molds are frequently given for
wedding presents. They become heirlooms and are
passed down from generation to generation.
A Versatile Product
Kugelhopf is neither as rich nor as sweet as most

brioche recipes. It is prized for its slightly drier crumb
and subtle, complex flavor which make the cake perfect
for dipping in coffee or toasting and serving with butter
and jam.
Often considered as a breakfast pastry, it is also
ideal for high tea service. Individual, miniature
kugelhopfs enhance petit fours selections and make
excellent mignardises. Stale, its perfect for French
toast, bread pudding, or grilled Nutella and banana
sandwiches. The possibilities are endless. There has
been a trend in recent years to offer savory kugelhopf.

Pierre Herm has made kugelhopf with onion, walnut,
and bacon. Again, the possibilities are limited only by
the bakers imagination. A miniature savory kugelhopf
is perfect for and amuse bouche.
Making Kugelhopf
Fortunately, the fabrication of kugelhopf is not as

contentious as its history. Typically, it is leavened with
yeast, enriched with butter and egg yolk, sweetened
with sugar, and enhanced with citrus and dried fruit.
As with other members of the brioche family tree, no
special equipment is required to produce kugelhopf. It
mixes beautifully on a spiral mixer; however, excellent
results can be achieved with a vertical mixer fitted with
a dough hook.

Enriched dough mixing methodology requires
intensive mixing due to the large amount of sugar
and butter incorporated, both of which inhibit gluten
development. With its tall and contorted shape, gluten
development and a good bake are critical to prevent

collapsing of the finished product.

Another means of achieving dough strength is the
use of an overnight preferment. The build up of organic
acids provides the necessary strength to the dough and
improves flavor and shelf life.
A Curious Display
Kugelhopf is a marketing dream. Its distinctive shape

lends itself well to display and stimulates curiosity.
Savvy entrepreneurs line their shelves with extra and/
or old to create excitement and awareness. Hotels and
restaurants can use a pyramid of kugelhopf as a prop for
breakfast or dessert buffets. Unwrapped, a display lasts
for weeks or months depending on the environment.

Some would say that the stories surrounding the
traditions and lore of kugelhopf draw battle lines,
creating and perpetuating boundaries. I would say
that the opposite is true. It erases the lines and blurs
boundaries for those who embrace the product and the

dialogue.
Bread Traning
41
Kugelhopf
SPONGE
470
293
2
g
g
g
Bread flour
Cold milk
Instant active yeast
In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix all

ingredients on 1st speed to clean-up. Place the dough in a
covered container and ferment overnight.
Final dough
1166 g Bread flour
348 g Milk
320 g Sugar
300 g Egg yolk
35
g Vanilla extract
32
g Instant active yeast*
23
g Salt
600 g Unsalted butter
5
ea Lemon zest
4
ea Vanilla bean
550 g Golden raisins
765 g Preferment
Bread Training
In a spiral mixer, mix the milk, egg yolk, vanilla extract,

yeast, preferment, salt, sugar, and yeast on low speed
to clean up, approximately four minutes. Mix on second
speed for 4 minutes. Add half of the butter, half of the
lemon zest, and half of the vanilla bean. Mix on low
speed for 4 minutes. Mix on high speed for 2 minutes.
Add the remaining butter, zest, and vanilla bean. Mix on
low speed for 4 minutes. Mix on high speed for 2 minutes.
Evaluate dough development using the window pane test.
If unable to pull a window, continue mixing on high
speed until the dough can be stretched to reveal a thin
membrane. Incorporate the golden raisins on low speed.
The desired dough temperature is 75 - 78 F (about 24
C). Place the dough in an oiled and covered container
for 2 hours punctuated by a stretch ad fold after 1 hour.
Divide into units of 700 g each. Pre-shape into a tight
ball and cover. Allow 20 minutes for the dough to relax.
Make a hole in the center of the ball and place the dough
seam side up in the prepared pans. Note: Use softened
(not melted) butter and sliced almonds to coat the bottom
and sides of the pans. Proof in a moist, enclosed, 75 -78
F (24 C) environment until the dough rises to the top of
the pan. Bake in a 335 F (168 C) oven until the cake is
golden brown, approximately 30 minutes. Allow the cake
to cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Invert to unmold.
Presented by the
2008
www.pastryprofessionalsmn.com
presents
Partner Information
Pastry Seminar
March 30 z z z April 1
2008
March 30 - April 1, 2008

The Pastry Professionals Association is proud to provide an
educational experience with instructors that are known for
their expertise in the field so chefs can receive the additional
training they want. Pastry Seminar 2008 will be held Sunday,
March 30 through Tuesday, April 1, 8AM to 5 PM at Le Cordon
Bleu College of Culinary Arts, Mendota Heights, MN. Each days
schedule includes two - 4 hour classes with optional evening
demonstrations.
CHOOSE FROM:
Color & Chocolate by Susan Notter
Flavor Composition of Desserts by Anil Rohira
The Art of Air Brushing while using Casted Molds by Stephane Treand
Creating Unique Confections by Andrew Shotts
Brazilian Recipes & Ingredients by Flavio Fedrico
Creating Desserts for the Buffet Table by Marshall Rosenthdal
Business Coaching by John OMalley
Setting a Beautiful Dessert Buffet by Keith Hanson
Working with Sugar & Pastillage by Ewald Notter
Sculpted Cakes by Bronwen Weber
For more information, visit our website at
www.pastryprofessionalsmn.com
Partner Information
March 29th - April 2nd 2008
Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Center - France
Note To Our Readers

Pastrys Best is a growing magazine, and were
constantly attempting to improve ourselves with the
help of the pastry community. We would like to grow
to a bi-monthly publication, but to do so we desire your
International
Exhibition
Bakery, Pastry, Ice-cream
feedback whether positive or negative in order to

develop into a resource even more valuable to you. We
all need a common ground and platform in which to
voice our creativity, experiences, innovations and talent.
We believe Pastrys Best is poised to do just that with
Share your
your help! So drop us a line and let us know how we

can best serve you and the industry.
job passion
Happy Designs!
Darryl Lilly
Publications Manager
darryl@pastrysbest.com
with
A truly International magazine tailored to the

passionate pastry professional.
www.europain.com
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For further information please return this voucher to :

Promosalons - 1611 N. Kent Street, Suite 903 Arlington, VA 22209
Fax: 1-703-522-5005
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in the World?
How
in
How the World?
By Michael Joy and Beatrice Schneider
By Michael Joy and Beatrice Schneider
With competitions showcasing more and more amazing feats

of artistry that push the boundaries of the pastry medium, we
often get asked, How in the world did they do that? In the
previous issue, we featured sugar casting techniques used by
Pastry Chef Anthony Chavez at the Paris Gourmet Pastry Chef
of the Year competition. Since many readers of Pastrys Best
Magazine participate in culinary competitions, we thought it
a good idea to further explain the sculpting and mold making
processes used to help create Chef Anthonys translucent jaguar
effect. Heres how we did it.
2. A drawing is made to verify proportion, size, level of surface detail and

image orientation.
3. Using the drawing as a blueprint, a clay

model is hand sculpted. At this point, any
alterations requested by the chef are made.
4. From the (blue) clay model, a

negative silicone mold is made.
Please note: The camera ash creates a
positive illusion in the negative mold.
5. To make a positive shape, the mold

is prepared with release agent and
is lled with silicone. The result is a
silicone copy of the clay model.
6. To cast, Chef Anthony pours clear sugar

over the silicone jaguar. After it cools, he peels
the exible jaguar shape out of the sugar.
How In The World?
1. Chef Anthony selects an image of the

jaguar he wants translated into sugar.
Happy New Year!

Executive Pastry Chef Randy Sebastien and his
assistant Franck Sauvat from the Rio Suite and Hotel
Casino filled one of their 15,000 square foot ballrooms
with a multitude of custom designed desserts. With
several months of planning and an additional three
days to bring the massive room to a chocolate friendly
temperature, Chef Randys team began to set up on the
day after Christmas and worked non-stop through New
Years Eve. Four hundred and fifty work hours later,
2200 guests were treated to this delectable delight.
Nice work team Rio!
Photos and information spotted by Michael Joy.
The WildCherry on Top
From the largest processor

of fruit in alcohol in
the world, Les Grandes
Distilleries Peureux, comes
the Wild Cherry in Brandy
called the Griottine.
Imported in the United States by
www.pastrynet.com
770-252-6377

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THE

The Vanilla Extract from Eurovanille

6 Shadowing the US World Cup

by Pastrys Best Staff

10 Recipe for the Runway

25 Michel Cluizel Recipes

by Michael Joy and Susan Notter

White Chocolate Dlice

38 Pistachio Crme Brule Verrine

39 Boston Creme Cake

by Michael Joy with Anthony Chavez

Innovative Desserts from Italy

Cranberry Three Ways

Pastry Global FSI 852-2494-1907

In collaboration with www.pastrysbest.com

From the Publisher

A truly International magazine

From The Publisher

A 384-page Compilation Edition of

Rosen Shingle Creek Hotel, Orlando, Florida (Captain)

The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado

The Phoenician, Scottsdale, Arizona

The Cloister, Sea Island, Georgia (Alternate)

The Alternate View

Here we go again! Its time for

Whats your motivation?

the road to the next World Championship.

James W. Mullaney is the Executive Pastry

What are the objectives for this years team?

artist for the new team. Remy Funfrock was picked

How did the word get out about potential

Explain the selection process and how the finalists

How was it without a practical?

Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef of The Phoenician

For Any Occasion

What is to be accomplished in the next

Model wearing creation

Recipe for the Runway

Chef Zac Young struts

Chef Martan Howard

Designers & Chef/Chocolatiers:

Tim Brown and Joshua

Modern art with minimal effort

Michael Joy, Chicago School of Mold Making

Produced by Beatrice Schneider

ome chefs have the ability to make things look easy.

Chef Notter has coauthored several books and

2. Cut out the paper shapes.

3. Transfer the images to foam core.

4. Cut out the shapes.

5. Sand the edges smooth.

6. Seal the foam edges with glue.

7. Apply Vaseline as a release agent.

8. Reassemble the template.

9. Press the foam core at.

1. Primary materials needed:

10. Mix the silicone.

11. Add the catalyst.

12. Pour the silicone.

13. Allow the silicone to cure.

14. Clean up the silicone shapes.

15. Post-cure the silicone.

16. Prepare for casting.

17. Pour the black Isomalt.