Cotton

Cotton is actually a hair attached to the seed of the cotton plant. It is the oldest fibre used
for clothing purpose. The important cotton growing countries of the world are Argentina, Brazil,
China, Colombia, Greece, Egypt, India, Mexico, Pakistan, Peru, Russia, Spain, Turkey, U.S.A,
West Indies etc.
DEFINING COTTON
Cotton is a fibre that grows from the surface of seeds on the pods or bolls. It is composed
basically of a woody substance called Cellulose.
TYPES OF COTTON
1. SEA ISLAND COTTON
This is of the highest quality and the most valuable of commercial cottons. It grows on
the coast of the Gulf of Florida in Barbados and in other adjacent islands where the climate is
favorable. The average length of cotton is 2.0 inch and more, diameter 1/1500 inch and owing to
its fineness it can be used for spinning counts as high as 300s.
2. EGYPTIAN COTTON
There are two kinds of Egyptian cotton, brown and the other white. It is like Sea Island
cotton, very regular and contains few immature and dead fibres. Its average length lies between
1.5 inch and 1.75 inch, its diameter is about 1/1500 inch, and it can be spun as 200s count. White
Egyptian cotton is not so fine, having a staple of about 1 inch and is suitable for up to 70s count.
3. SOUTH AMERICAN COTTON
This has a staple length between 1 and 1.5 inch. It has a mean diameter of 1/1300 inch
and has come into prominence recently because it appears to be very suitable for mixing with
regenerated man made fibres. It can be spun upto 150s count.
4. AMERICAN COTTON
This is cultivated in the United States, and is the most abundant type of cotton. The staple
varies between 1 and 1.25 inch and diameter is 1/1200 inch. It has a good natural colour but
cannot be used for the extremely fine counts. It can be spun upto 70s count.
5. INDIAN COTTON
It is a short fibre of between 0.6 and 0.8 inch length. It is therefore only suitable for
spinning coarse count. Its diameter is 1/1200 inch.
6. CHINA COTTON
This is about the lowest commercially acceptable grade. The fibre being only 0.5 to 0.7
inch long. Its twist is not highly developed and it is rather harsh. It does not spin a good yarn
alone, and is usually used in a mixture with better qualities. Its diameter is 1/1200 inch.

NATURAL HISTORY OF COTTON

The cotton plant belongs to the natural order of the mallow family. It grows in subtropical climates. There are various species.
1. Gossipium herbaceum
2. Gossipium hirsutum
3. Gossipium Peruvian
4. Gossipium barbadense
The first two are cultivated in America and India. The third and as its name implies,
originated in Peru and spread to other South American Countries. Last one produces the fine silky
Sea Island cotton and is cultivated in Gulf of Florida.
STRUCTURE OF COTTON
Each hair consists of single elongated cell. The upper end tapered to a plant whilst the
lower end is open where it has been removed from the seed by the gin.
MATURED FIBRES:
The fibre contains many convolutions through out its length. In a fully ripened cotton
fibre there are between 200 to 300 convolutions per inch. They are more numerous in the better
qualities than in coarser varieties. Sometimes, however, there are cells with comparatively little
twist; they are the unripe or only partially matured ones.
DEAD FIBRES:
On occasions twist is entirely absent, the cell walls are extremely thin and the lumen is
collapsed so that the fibres look more like flat pieces of slightly twisted tape. These are dead
fibres in which growth came to an end before they were mature.
By microscopical examinations, differential staining and the action of swelling agents, it
is possible to discern four principle components of the fibre.
PRIMARY WALL
There is the primary wall of the young cell which becomes the outer skin of the matured
fibres.
CUTICLE
The primary wall is covered with a cuticular layer of wax and pectic matter.
SECONDARY WALL
The secondary wall constitutes the bulk of the cellulosic component and is laid down in
successive layers visible as rings in the cross- section of a swollen fibre corresponding with daily
growth ring in tree. Within these are minute fibres deposits, fibres which are packed alongside
one another running in spirals.
LUMEN

When cotton fibre is alive the centre is filled with liquid nutrients and protoplasm, when
the fibre dries the liquid disappears and an almost empty space, known as the Lumen runs length
ways through the fibre.
CONSTITUENTS OF COTTON
Raw cotton contains cellulose, oil and wax pectoses and pectins, proteins and simpler
releted nitrogen compounds, organic acids, mineral matter and natural colouring matter. The
approximate composition of raw cotton is as follows:
Cellulose
Oil and Wax
Proteins, pectoses and
colouring matter
Mineral matter
Moisture

85.5%
0.5%

5.0%
1.0%
8.0%

PECTINIOUS MATERIAL
The impurity found in the largest amount consists of pectinious material. They are
primarily calcium and magnesium pectates with free pectic acid and methyl pectate, another
carbohydrate similar to cellulose. These may be converted into soluble product by alkali
hydroxides. So these are removed by boiling alkali when cotton is prepared for bleaching.
PROTEIN
The proteins found in cotton fibre, mostly consists of vegetable proteins. These proteins
consist of polypeptides and amino acids.
FAT
A small amount of fatty material, which is mostly cotton seed oil, is found in raw cotton.
It is probably due to damaging of cotton seeds in ginning. There are glycerides, oils and waxes.
MINERAL MATTER
Cotton contains a small amount mineral matter which is left as an ash after cotton is burned. The
mineral matter is present in the cotton due to soil and atmospheric impurities when the pod burst.
It consists of chlorides, carbonates and sulphates of potassium, calcium and magnesium.
CELLULOSE
When all the impurities have been removed the main constituent of the fibre, cellulose,
remains. Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5)n. Pure cellulose is a white substance
with a specific gravity of 1.5. It burns freely in air with a luminous smokeless flame. It is
hygroscopic. Cellulose is insoluble in water and organic solvents, but dissoluble in ammonical
copper hydroxide and in concentrated zinc chloride and calcium thiocyanate. It is insoluble in
solution of alkalis but dissolves in cold concentrated sulphuric acid. It is attacked by
hydrochloric, nitric and sulphuric acid. Solution of cellulose is colloidal in their properties.

CHARACTERISTICS OF COTTON
Advantages
1. Cotton can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics. Among the sheer fabrics are cambric,
batiste, chiffon, lawn, organdy and voile. Medium weight cottons include broadcloth, drill,
flannel, poplin, terrycloth and long cloth. The heavy weight cottons include brocade, corduroy,
denim, pique and velveteen.
2. Cotton can be mercerized to improve luster, absorbency, dyeability and strength.
3. Textured effects are easily achieved either by yarn structure (high twist yarns, nub yarns,
boucle yarns, and crimped yarns), fabric construction (crepes, seersuckers) or application of
special finishes (embossing, napping).
4. Cotton fabrics can be easily dyed or printed with almost all the classes of dyes. Pigment
printing can be done with the help of a binder.
5. Cotton is absorbent, does not build up static electricity and is a good conductor of heat and
hence is very comfortable to wear.
Disadvantages
1. Untreated cotton wrinkles easily.
2. Cotton is susceptible to mildew if left damp.
3. Cotton is flammable.
4. Fabrics take a long time to dry.