Magical

Magical |1
Magical
By Elena Nodel
Magical is the second design in the ebook,

Touch of Magic, a collection of sweaters
designed for everyday wear that are fun,
functional, and modern.
Magical is worked as a top down unusual
raglan construction and is completely
seamless. The design features a small front
cable, ribbed sleeves, pockets, and fun hem
finishing touches.
Depending on the options you choose, the
sweater can be boyish or girly, in other words,
it is a unisex design.
Elena Nodel 2012
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Sizes Available:
When choosing a size, please do not rely solely on age categories. Measure your child and choose the
appropriate size based on actual chest measurements. About 2 -2.5 inches of positive ease is already
incorporated into the pattern.
Length is measured from the underarm to the end of the hemline.
Yarn Requirements (yds/m)
Chest
Sweaters
Measurement
Length
6m
17/43.5 cm
7.5/19 cm
230/210
260/238
300/274
9m
18/46 cm
8/20.5 cm
260/238
290/265
330/302
12m
19/48.5 cm
8.5/21.5 cm
330/302
360/329
400/366
18m
20"/50.5 cm
9/23 cm
350/320
400/366
450/412
24m
21"/ 53 cm
9.5/24.5 cm
390/357
430/393
480/434
3T
22"/56 cm
10/25.5 cm
420/384
475/434
525/480
4T
23"/58.5 cm
10.5/27 cm
430/393
500/457
550/503
5T
24"/61 cm
11.5/29.5 cm
450/412
525/480
575/526
6-7
25/ 63.5 cm
12.5/32 cm
475/434
550/503
625/572
8-9
26/ 66 cm
14/35.5 cm
525/480
600/549
700/640
9-10
27/ 68.5 cm
15/38 cm
575/526
625/572
750/686
10-12
29/ 73.5 cm
16.5/42 cm
700/640
750/686
900/823
12-14
30/76 cm
17.5/44.5 cm
750/686
900/823
1000/914
Size
Short
sleeve
sleeve
Full
sleeve
Gauge: 21 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with US #5/3.75 mm

needles or size to obtain gauge.
If you are having hard time getting that gauge, then here is what you can do:
If your gauge is 22 sts and 28 rows, then work one size bigger than you normally would.
If your gauge is 20 sts and 25 rows, then work a size smaller than you normally would.
If your stitch gauge matches one of the above but you have more rows then you will be guided as to
where to add rows to compensate.
Suggested Yarn:
Sweet Merino DK by Colour Adventures (100% merino; 250 yards/229 m in 4.0 oz/115 g);
Dia Merino DK by Colour Adventures (100% merino; 231 yards/211 m in 3.53 oz/100 g);
Cloud DK by Colour Adventures (80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 231 yds/211 m in 3.53 oz/100 g);
Exquisite DK by Lioness Arts (70% baby alpaca, 20% silk, 10% cashmere; 240 yds/219 m in 3.53 oz/100 g).
Samples are shown in Sweet Merino DK (Dusk colorway) and in Exquisite DK (Iris colorway).
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Notions:
p2tog = purl two stitches together as one,
US #3/3.25 mm circular needles (30 cm and

60 or 80 cm);
skp = slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the
US #3/3.25 mm double pointed needles

(optional);
over the knitted one;
US # 5/ 3.75 mm circular needles (30cm, 40

cm and 60 cm or 80 cm);
knit into the back of the same stitch, then
i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2;
US #5/3.75 mm double pointed needles

(optional);
Cable needle;
following stitch, then pass the slipped stitch

kfb = knit into the front of the stitch, then
slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made
out of 1;
pfb =purl into the front of the stitch, then
purl into the back of the same stitch, then
3 stitch markers A, 2 markers B, and 1

marker C;
slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made
3 mm crochet hook (optional)
dliR = directional lifted increase to the right
Tapestry needle (optional);
(see reference chapter): pick up the loop on
Sewing needle;
the row below the next stitch on the left
Sewing thread;
needle, knit it;
Lengths of waste yarn/stitch holder;
dliL = directional lifted increase to the left
1 button (~1/2 inch wide);
(see reference chapter):pick up the loop 2
2 optional buttons (3/4-1 inch wide).
rows below the last stitch worked on the
out of 1;
right needle and knit it;
Abbreviations:
M1L = left leaning increase; with the left

needle pick up the bar between stitches from
pm = place marker;
slipm = move marker from the left needle
to the right needle;
the front, then knit through the back of the

loop;
M1R = right leaning increase; with the left
k = knit;
p = purl;
behind, then knit through the front loop;
st(s) = stitch(es);
M1RP = right leaning increase; with the left
rnd(s) = round(s);
RS = right side of the work;
behind, then purl through the front loop.
WS = wrong side of the work;

k2tog = knit two stitches together as one,
Garter ridge = is a ridge formed by
i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2 sts;
knitting RS and WS once.
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Cable Key Abbreviations:

No stitch = stitch that has been decreased on the previous
round.
2/2 LC = put 2 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the
work, k2, then k2 from the cn;
2/1 RPC = put 1 stitch onto the cn, hold to the back of the
work, k2, then p1 from the cn;
2/1 LPC = put 2 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the
work, p1, then k2 from the cn;
Close Cable Loop:
1. Slip 3 sts to the right needle.
2. Then pass the middle stitch over the 3rd (one closer to the needle tip) [1 st closed].
3. Then pass the formed stitch back to left needle.
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4. Pass the first stitch on the left needle over just transferred one [1 st closed].
5. Then transfer formed stitch back to the right needle.
6. Pass the first stitch on the right needle over just transferred one [1 st closed].
7. Then transfer formed stitch back to the left
8. Leave the stitch where it is and purl it.
needle; pass the first stitch on the left needle

over just transferred one [1 st closed].
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Pattern Notes:
1. If you are using other than recommended yarn, you might need ~ 50 -70
yards more (but not necessarily) or less yarn for your project (~ 50-100
yards less for alpaca/silk blends).
2. You will start your garment by working on the neckband first, and then you continue
by shaping back and front. To start with, you will be working flat, and then eventually
the work will be joined for working in the round.
3. Once sleeves are separated, you will have to choose pattern options and proceed based
on those as appropriate (i.e. girly version or boyish/unisex).
4. Raglan increases for front and back are done on every row for the most
part.
5. Sleeve increases are done at 6, 7, 8 rows intervals (depending on your size).
6. There are two cables to choose from. I recommend working Cable Chart A for sizes
6m to 6-7 and Cable Chart B for sizes 8-9 and up, however you may use either cable
for any size.
7. When the cable chart is finished, the previously cabled sts are part of the body and
should be knitted.
8. While shaping the sweater body, you will have an option for working pockets. This
option is suitable for both styles (girly and unisex/boyish).
9. Body sts are placed on hold. Pockets are worked in parts: the pocket itself and the
pocket trims. Pocket trims are worked with I-cord edgings. The technique creates
short rows automatically, thus making trims curvy and allowing them to fit nicely
alongside the pocket flaps edge.
10. Once pocket(s) and pocket trims are made, they are attached together with crochet
hook or sewed together with a tapestry needle.
11. The rest of the body is worked next, and then the pocket(s) are attached to the body by
knitting pocket and body sts together.
12. There are 3 different hemlines to choose from.
13. Sleeves can be worked as short sleeves, or sleeve, or full length sleeves.
14. Sleeves have girly and unisex/boyish versions.
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Cable Chart A:
Written Instructions:
Round 1: p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3.
Round 2: p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Round 3: p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1.
Round 4: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1.
Round 5: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1.
Round 6: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1.
Round 7: p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1.
Round 8: k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1,
k1.
Round 9: k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1.
Round 10: k1, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k1.
Round 11: k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1.
Round 12: k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1,
k1.
Round 13: k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1.
Round 14: k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1.
k1.
Round 17: k2, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k2.
Round 19: k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2.
Round 20: k2, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k2.
Round 21: k2, p1, close cable loop, p1, k2.
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Cable Chart B:
Round 9: p1, 2/1 LPC, p6, 2/1 RPC, p1.

k1.
k1.
Round 13: k1, p4, 2/2 LC, p4, k1.
k1.
k1.
Round 17: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1.
Round 18: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1.
Round 19: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1.
k1.
k2.
Round 22: k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2,
k2.
Round 23: k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2.
Round 24: k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2,
k2.
k2.
Round 26: k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2.
Round 27: k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2.
Round 28: k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC,
p1, k2.
Round 30: k3, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k3.
Round 32: k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3.
Round 33: k3, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k3.
Round 34: k3, p1, close cable loop, p1, k3.
Written Instructions:
Round 1: p4, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p4.
Round 2: p3, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3.
Round 3: p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Round 4: p1, 2/1 RPC, p6, 2/1 LPC, p1.
Round 5: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1.
Round 6: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1.
Round 7: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1.
Round 8: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1.
Elena Nodel 2012
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Pattern Instructions:
Sizes are set up as follows:
6m (9m, 12m, 18m, 24m), ( 3T, 4T, 5T, 6-7), (8-9, 9-10, 10-12, 12-14).
NECKBAND:
Note: the larger sections of stitches

between markers are sleeve sts.
Using long tail cast on and 40 cm larger

sized needles (3.75mm), cast on 59 (63, 63,
Row 2 (WS): k3, slipm, work sleeves as
67, 67), (67, 71, 71, 71), (75, 79, 83, 87 ) sts.
given for your size, slipm, kfb x2, slipm,

work sleeve as given for your size below,
Rows 1-3 (WS, RS, WS): knit.
slipm, k3.
Row 4(RS) buttonhole row: k2, yo,

knit to the end, 1 stitch increased.
Sleeves Sizes 6m and 8-9 only:
Sizes 6m to 24m only:
k2, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till marker
Rows 5-7 (WS, RS, WS): knit.
Sleeves Sizes 9m, 12m, and 9-10 only:
Go to Bodice instructions.
p1, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till last 3 sts before

marker, k2, p1
Sizes 3T to 6-7 only:

Rows 5-9 (WS, RS, WS, RS, WS): knit.
Sleeves Sizes 18m to 3T, and 10-12

only:
Go to Bodice instructions.
p2, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till marker
Sizes 8-9 and up only:

Rows 5-11 (WS, RS, WS, RS, WS, RS,
WS): knit.
Sleeves Sizes 4T to 6-7 and 12-14 only:

k1, *(p2, k2) *, repeat * till last 3 sts before
marker, p2, k1
Go to Bodice Instructions.
Row 3 (RS): k2, kfb, slipm, work sleeves as
BODICE:
given for your size, slipm, [pfb, p1] x2, slipm,

Row 1 (RS): knit and place markers as
work sleeves as given for your size, slipm,
follows:
kfb, k2
K3, pm C, knit 26 (28, 28, 30, 30), (30, 32,

32, 32), (34, 36, 38, 40), pm A, k2, pm A,
knit 26 (28, 28, 30, 30), (30, 32, 32, 32),
Sleeves Sizes 6m and 8-9 only:

p2, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till marker
(34, 36, 38, 40), pm A, k3.
Elena Nodel 2012
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Sleeves Sizes 9m, 12m, and 9-10 only:
needle and hold to the back of the first 3 sts
k1, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till last 3 sts before
on the left needle, knit stitches together
marker, p2, k1
from the left needle with the ones held on
Sleeves Sizes 18m to 3T, and 10-12

only:
the cable needle.

You have just joined your work for knitting
in the round.
k2, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till marker
Knit to the 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1.
Sleeves Sizes 4T to 6-7 and 12-14 only:
Marker C is now your beginning of the
p1, *(k2, p2) *, repeat * till last 3 sts before
round marker.
marker, k2, p1
Sizes 8-9 and up only:
Row 4 (WS): k3, pfb, slipm, work sleeves

as given for your size on Row 2, slipm, kfb,
Row 7 (RS)/Rnd 1 joining in the

round:
k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves as given for
k5, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern,
your size on Row 2, slipm, pfb, k3
slipm, kfb, work Rnd 1 of the Chart B over

the central 14 sts (page 8), kfb, slipm,
Row 5 (RS): k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work

sleeves as given for your size on Row 3,
slipm, pfb, p3, M1R, M1L, p2, pfb, p1, slipm,
work sleeves as given for your size on Row
3, slipm, kfb, k4.
work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k3, place

last 3 sts on the cable needle and hold to the
back of the first 3 sts on the left needle, knit
stitches together from the left needle with
the ones held on the cable needle.
Row 6 (WS): k3, p1, pfb, p1, slipm, work

sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k4, M1RP, p2,
M1RP, k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in
pattern, slipm, pfb, p2, k3.
You have just joined your work for knitting

in the round.
Knit to the 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1.
Marker C is now your beginning of the
round marker.
Sizes 6m to 6-7 only:

Row 7 (RS)/Rnd 1 joining in the
round:
k5, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern,
slipm, kfb, k1, work Rnd 1 of the Chart A
over the next central 12 sts (page 7),
kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern,
slipm, kfb, k3, place last 3 sts on the cable
All Sizes:
You should have 18 sts at the front and 14 sts
at the back.
Please read instructions on the
following pages (page 11 - 12) in full
before continuing knitting, up to
Separate Sleeves chapter.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 11
Rnd 2 sleeve increases: M1R, work
Keep working as given for Rnd 4, working
sleeve in the established pattern till marker,
appropriate cable rnd at the same time for 4
M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to front central 12/14
rnds.
sts, pm B, work cable Rnd 2, pm B, knit to

2 sts before marker , kfb, k1, slipm, M1R,
work sleeve in the established pattern till
marker, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before
Sleeve Increase Rnd: M1R, work sleeve in

the established pattern, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit
to front central 12/14 sts, slipm B, work
appropriate cable Rnd, slipm B, knit to 2 sts
marker C, kfb, k1.
before marker , kfb, k1, slipm, M1R, work

Note: newly made sleeve sts need to be
sleeve in the established pattern, M1L,
worked into the existing rib pattern.
slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb,
For example, if your sleeve edge stitches
k1.
were p1, k2.k2, p1, then the newly made

sts need to be purl stitches as to give you p2,
k2.k2, p2 thus continuing the rib pattern.
Keep working as given for Rnd 4, working

appropriate cable rnd, and then working
Sleeve Increase Rnd every 8th (7th, 7th, 7th,
Rnd 3: work sleeve in the established
7th), (7th, 7th, 7th, 6th ), (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) rnd
pattern bringing newly made sts into the
till you have the following number of sts for
established rib pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to
each sleeve: 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40,
front central 12/14 sts, slipm B, work central
42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts.
stiches cable Rnd 3, slipm B, knit to 2 sts

before marker, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeve in
the established pattern bringing newly made
sts into the established rib pattern, slipm,
kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1.
Rnd 4: work sleeve in the established
pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to front central
12/14 sts, slipm B, work appropriate cable
rnd (Rnd 4 for this rnd), slipm B, knit to 2
Note 1: once you get the correct number of

sts for each sleeve, just continue working
sleeve sts in rib pattern without further
increases for the following section.
Work as given on Rnd 4 (i.e. raglan
increases on every row) until you have the
following number of sts for Back: (read
note 2 on the following page)
sts before marker, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeve
44 (44, 48, 50, 52), (56, 62, 64, 66), (66, 68,
in the established pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to
68, 74) sts
2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 12
Note 2: If your row gauge is smaller than
the one given for your stitch gauge (for
example 30 rows instead of 28), then for
sizes up to 3T stop at 2 sts less for back than
the above. For sizes 4T and up: stop at 4sts
less for back than the above and work as
follows (work 2 rnds below once up to size
3T and twice for other sizes):
SEPARATE SLEEVES:
Continue with your cables to the end
of the chart if necessary and at the same
time:
Girly version:
Remove marker C, put the next 32 (34, 34,
36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts
Rnd 1: work in pattern across all sts with
on hold, remove marker, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1,
no increases.
2), (2, 1, 2, 2), (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, pm C
Rnd 2: work as rnd 4.
(beginning of rnd marker), cast on 1 (2, 2, 2,
Continue with instructions below as
2), (2, 2, 2, 2), (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, kfb into the
appropriate for the size you are making.
first stitch of the front, work across front
Note 3: If you havent worked last 2 rnds

of the cable, then your front will have 4
more sts than the back.
Note 4: Once the front cable is complete,
the remaining 3 purl sts will be worked as
knit stitches on the RS as the rest of the
body from this point on. Remove markers
B1 and B2 when the cables are finished.
Sizes 6m to 3T, 8-9 to 12-14 only: work
stitches to the last stitch, kfb, remove

marker, put next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40,
40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove
marker, cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 2), (2, 2, 2, 2), (3,
3, 3, 3) sts, place marker A, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1,
2), (2, 1, 2, 2), (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, kfb into the
first back stitch, knit across back stitches to
the last stitch, kfb.
next two rnds as follows:

Rnd 1: work all sts in pattern with no
Total stitch count should be 101 (107,
increases.
113, 117, 123), (127, 133, 139, 143), (149,
Rnd 2: as rnd 4.
155, 159, 167) sts.
Sizes 6m to 24m, 10-12, and 12-14

only: repeat rnds 1 and 2 above.
(Please note that if you are still

working on the Cables then you will
All sizes: work in pattern, no increases.
have 5 sts more than the total counts
Back should have 48 (48, 52, 54, 56), (58,
given).
62, 64, 66), (68, 70, 72, 78) sts. Once again,
If you havent finished last 2 cable rnds, the
front will have 4 more sts than the back.
Elena Nodel 2012
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Unisex/Boyish version:
Girly version without pockets:
Remove marker C, put the next 32 (34, 34,
Knit and increase at the sides after every 2-3

inches until the hem as follows:
36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts
on hold, remove marker, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1,
K2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before marker,
2), (3, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, place marker C
M1R or dliR, k2, slipm, k2, M1L or dliL, knit
(beginning of the rnd marker), cast on 1 (2,
to 2 sts before the end of the rnd, M1R or
2, 2, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, kfb into
dliR, k2.
the first stitch of the front, knit across front

stitches to the last stitch, kfb, remove
Knit and work increases till the sweater

measures about 5.5 (6, 7, 7.5, 8), (8.5, 9, 10,
marker, put next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40,

40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove
marker, cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4,
4, 4, 4) sts, place marker A, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1,
2), (3, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, kfb into the
first back stitch, knit across back stitches to
11), (12.5, 13.5, 15, 16) inches or 14 (15.5, 18,

19, 20.5), (21.5, 23, 25.5, 28), (32, 34.5, 38,
40.5) cm as measured from the underarm or
till desired length minus 1.5 inches/4 cm.
Proceed to the Hemline Chapter, page 17.
the last stitch, kfb.
Girly version with pockets:
Total stitch count should be 101 (107,
Knit and increase at the sides after every 2-3

inches until the hem as follows:
113, 117, 125), (131, 137, 143, 147), (153,
K2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before marker,
159, 163, 171) sts.

(Please note that if you are still
working on the Cables then you will
have 5 sts more than the total counts
given).
M1R or dliR, k2, slipm, k2, M1L or dliL, knit

to 2 sts before the end of the rnd, M1R or
dliR, k2.
Knit and work increases till the sweater
measures about 2.5 (3, 3.25, 3.75, 3.75),
BODY:
(4.25, 4.75, 5.25, 6.25), (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5)
You can easily adjust body length by knitting

to the desired length.
inches or 6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5), (11, 12, 13.5,

16), (19, 21.5, 24.5, 27) cm as measured from
the underarm or till desired length minus
For example, if you are making your sweater
4.5 (4.5, 5.25, 5.25, 5.75), (5.75, 5.75, 6, 6),
based on a chest size, but not on the age
(6.75, 6.75, 7.5, 7.5) inches or 11.5 (11.5, 13.5,
group, then knit to the length specified for
13.5, 14.5), (14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 15.5), (17.5, 17.5,
the proper age group or till desired
19, 19) cm.
length.
Proceed to the Pockets Chapter, page 14.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 14
Unisex/Boyish version without
Starting from the beginning of the rnd
pockets:
marker, knit 7 (7, 10, 10, 12), (13, 13, 13, 13),
Knit till the sweater measures about 5.5 (6,
(13, 14, 15, 16) sts, place marker, knit to the
7, 7.5, 8), (8.5, 9, 10, 11), (12.5, 13.5, 15, 16)
10 (10, 13, 13, 15), (16, 16, 16, 16), (16, 17, 18,
inches or 14 (15.5, 18, 19, 20.5), (21.5, 23,
19) sts before the other side marker, turn
25.5, 28), (32, 34.5, 38, 40.5) cm as
your work.
measured from the underarm or till desired

length minus 1.5 inches/4 cm.
Insert a lifeline into these front sts to enable

body sts to be picked up at the correct point
Proceed to the Hemline Chapter, page 17.

Unisex/Boyish version with pockets:
Knit till the sweater measures about 2.5 (3,
3.25, 3.75, 3.75), (4.25, 4.75, 5.25, 6.25),
(7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches or 6.5 (7.5, 8.5,
9.5, 9.5), (11, 12, 13.5, 16), (19, 21.5, 24.5, 27)
cm as measured from the underarm or till
desired length minus 4.5 (4.5, 5.25, 5.25,
5.75), (5.75, 5.75, 6, 6), (6.75, 6.75, 7.5, 7.5)
inches or 11.5 (11.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5), (14.5,
14.5, 15.5, 15.5), (17.5, 17.5, 19, 19) cm.
later.
Set up:
You will be setting up pocket stitches and
putting pocket trim sts on hold. Trim sts
need to be worked separately as they need to
be worked for more rows then the rest of the
pocket to enable them to snugly fit the curve
created by the pocket flap; once complete,
pocket trim sts will no longer be a part
of the base of the pocket, but rather a
vertical side to the pocket (see picture
Proceed to the Pockets Chapter.
below; arrows show the pocket trim

sts location at the start and at the
POCKETS:
end).
Keep all your markers in place, i.e.

beginning of the rnd marker and side
marker.
Approximate pocket length: 3 (3, 3.75, 3.75,
4.25), (4.25, 4.25, 4.75, 4.75), (5, 5, 5.5, 5.5)
inches or 7.5 (7.5, 9.5, 9.5, 11), (11, 11, 12, 12),
(13, 13, 14, 14) cm.
Follow pocket instructions based on
the appropriate age group, not the
chest size.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 15
Row 1 (WS): Keep working yarn at the
Row 5 (WS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl
front, place 3 sts from your right needle to
to the end of row.
the left needle. Working yarn will be coming
Repeat Rows 4-5 :
between the sts on the left needle and the

newly transferred ones. Pull the yarn
6 (6, 8, 8, 10), (10, 10, 11, 11), (12, 12, 13, 13)
more times.
towards the tip of the left needle, and purl 3

sts, knit 5. Put the 8 sts you just worked on
stitch holder for pocket trim. Purl to the last
8 sts before marker, then knit 5, turn your
work.
You should have increased by 8 (8, 10, 10,

12), (12, 12, 13, 13), (14, 14, 15, 15) sts at each
pocket side and worked a total of 17 (17, 21,
21, 25), (25, 25, 27, 27), (29, 29, 31, 31) rows,
ending with the WS row. That count
Row 2 (RS): Keep working yarn at the

back, place 3 sts from your right needle to
the left needle. You can remove the pocket
marker now. Working yarn will be at the
back and coming between the sts on the left
includes the set up rows.

Row 6 (RS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit
to the end of the row, then cast on 4 (4, 5, 5,
5), (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 7, 7, 8) sts.
needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull
Row 7 (WS): purl, at the end of the row
the yarn towards the tip of the left needle,
cast on 4 (4, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 7, 7, 8)
and knit 8 sts. Put the 8 sts you have just
sts.
worked on the stitch holder.
Row 8 (RS): knit
Note: Stitches on hold are the pocket trim
Row 9 (WS): purl.
sts and will be worked separately from the
Leave sts on hold and cut yarn.
rest of the pockets.
Total number of rows worked is 21 (21, 25,
Pocket Flap:
25, 29), (29, 29, 31, 31), (33, 33, 35, 35).
Row 2 (RS continued): slip 1 stitch as if
You will be working on pocket trims next.
to purl, M1R or dliR, knit to the last stitch

before sts on hold, M1L or dliL, k1, turn your
Right Pocket Trim (as worn):

Transfer the 8 sts from hold onto the
work.
Row 3 (WS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl
to the end of row.
Row 4 (RS) increase row: slip first
needles, and with RS facing you attach yarn

at the end of the sts. Turn your work over.
Row 1 (WS): pfb, knit 4, turn work over.
stitch as if to purl, M1R or dliR, knit to the

last stitch, M1L or dliL, k1.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 16
Row 2 (RS): Keep working yarn at the
pocket. You should have worked about 18
back, place 3 sts from your right needle to
(18, 19, 19, 21), (21, 21, 23, 23), (24, 25, 26,
the left needle. Working yarn will be at the
27) garter ridges as seen on the RS, finish
back and coming between the sts on the left
with a WS row.
needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull
Next RS row: knit all sts.
the yarn towards the tip of the left needle,

and knit 9 sts.
Row 3 (WS): slip first stitch as if to purl,
knit 5, turn work over.
Bind off knitwise. Cut yarn.

Using crochet hook or tapestry needle
attach/sew the pocket trims to the pocket
edges. You were slipping stitches; those
Keep repeating Rows 2-3 till the pocket trim
should form a nice clear selvage edge and
fits all the way around the curve of the
make it easier for attaching trims to the
pocket. You should have worked about 17
pocket edges.
(17, 18, 18, 20), (20, 20, 22, 22), (23, 24, 25,
26) garter ridges as seen on the RS.
Ensure the trim is fitted into the curves

created on the pocket flap so that the bind
Bind off on next WS row knitwise. Cut yarn.
off section of the trim is vertical, for sewing

in place later.
Left Pocket Trim (as worn):

Transfer sts from hold onto the needles, and
Kangaroo pocket:
with RS facing you attach yarn at the

Using the lifeline as a guide, attach yarn
beginning of the sts.

Row 1 (RS): kfb, knit 4, turn work over.
before the start of the pocket and with

works RS and pockets WS facing you pick
Row 2 (WS): Keep working yarn at the
up and knit the back top loop/purl bump of
front, place 3 sts from your right needle to
each pocket stitch (along trims and pocket);
the left needle. Working yarn will be
knit to the end of the rnd.
coming between the sts on the left needle

and the newly transferred ones. Pull the
yarn towards the tip of the left needle, and
Knit for 20 (20, 24, 24, 28), (28, 28, 30, 30),
(32, 32, 34, 34) rnds.
Place pocket sts on spare needles.
purl 3 sts, knit 5, p1.

Row 3 (RS): slip first stitch as if to purl,
On your next rnd, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2,

2), (1, 1, 1, 1), align pocket sts with body sts.
knit 5, turn work over.

Keep repeating Rows 2-3 till the pocket trim
fits all the way around the curve of the
Knit through one pocket stitch and 1 body

stitch together till all pocket sts have been
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 17
joined with the body sts, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3,
24), (25, 26, 27, 28) sts], knit across pocket
2, 2), (1, 1, 1, 1), slipm, knit to the end of the
sts till last 17 (17, 20, 20, 22), (23, 23, 24,
rnd.
24), (25, 26, 27, 28)sts, then once again
Knit for two rnds. Go to Hemline Chapter.
attach body sts with left pockets stitches as

previously, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2, 2), (1, 1, 1,
Two Pockets:
1), slipm, knit to the end of the rnd.
Using the lifeline as a guide and with works

RS and pockets WS facing you, attach yarn 5
sts away before the start of the left pocket
trim, pick up and knit 5 sts through the
Knit for further two rnds. Go to Hemline

Chapter.
HEMLINE:
back top loop/purl bump underneath the
There are three options to choose from.
pocket, then pick up and knit sts underneath
Each option will give you a hemline that is
the left pocket trim (8 sts). (13 sts total).
about 1.5-2 inches wide.
Knit across to the beginning of the rnd.

Next rnd: knit to the start of the pocket and
pick up 13 sts similar to the way you have
done on the other side. Turn work.
Girly version (if you have worked side

increases): evenly decrease across the rnd by
12 (12, 12, 12, 16), (16, 16, 20, 20), (20, 24,
24, 24) sts as k2tog.
Row 1 (WS): purl
Simple Hemline:
Row 2 (RS): knit
Change to smaller sized needles (3.25
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 till you have worked a

total of 20 (20, 24, 24, 28), (28, 28, 30, 30),
(32, 32, 34, 34) rows, ending with the RS
mm).
Rnd 1: purl
Rnd 2: knit
Repeat these two rnds 5-7 more times.
row at the beginning of the rnd
Bind off on a purl row/purlwise.
marker, not the end of the row.

Place pocket sts on spare needles.
Buttoned Hemline:
On your next rnd, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2,

2), (1, 1, 1, 1), align pocket sts with body sts.
Front hem: with smaller sized needles
Knit through one pocket stitch and 1 body
(3.25 mm), knit to the side marker, cast on
stitch together till all right body sts have
6 sts. Turn work.
been used up [17 (17, 20, 20, 22), (23, 23, 24,
Row 1 (WS): knit to the beginning of the

round marker, cast on 6 sts.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 18
Rows 2-5: knit
Bow-tie Hemline (girly):
Row 6 (RS) buttonhole row: k2,
Tip: you might want to use two sets of
k2tog, yo, knit to the last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2.
needles to make knitting easier.
Rows 7-10: knit
Knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6), (8, 8, 10, 12), (12, 14, 14,
Optional Rows 11-12: knit
16) sts past the beginning of the rnd marker.
Bind off on the WS knitwise.
Cast on 40 (40, 40, 40, 40), (45, 45, 45, 45),
Back hem: for the back sts left on the
(50, 50, 50, 50) sts. Turn your work.
needles, RS facing and smaller sized
Row 1 (WS): using smaller sized
needles (3.25 mm), attach yarn and knit
needles (3.25 mm), knit all the way to the
across.
end of the row, then cast on 40 (40, 40, 40,
Knit every row for the same amount of rows

as you did for the front.
Bind off on the WS row knitwise.
40), (45, 45, 45, 45), (50, 50, 50, 50) sts.
Row 2 (RS): using second set of smaller
sized needles now knit across to the end of
the row.
Row 3 (WS): knit
Row 4 (RS): knit
Repeat last two rows 4-6 more times.
Bind off on a WS row knitwise.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 19
SLEEVES:
Size 10-12: p2tog, p1, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2,

p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Use larger sized needles (3.75 mm).
Size 12-14: p2tog, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2,

p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Girly Version:
Transfer 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40,

42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts from hold, attach
Unisex/Boyish Version
yarn and pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4,

4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 6) sts, pm, pick up and knit 3
Transfer 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40,
(3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4, 4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 6) sts.
42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts from hold, attach
Total stitch count should be 38 (40, 42, 44,

44), (46, 48, 48, 50), (54, 56, 58, 62) sts.
Work sleeves in pattern to 1 stitch before
picked up underarm sts, then
yarn and pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), (5, 5,

5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, pm, pick up and knit 3
(3, 4, 4, 5), (5, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) sts.
46), (48, 50, 50, 52), (56, 58, 60, 64) sts.
Size 6m: p2tog, p1, k1, slipm, k1, p1, p2tog,

work in pattern to the marker.
Work sleeves in pattern to 1 stitch before

picked up underarm sts, then
Size 9m: p2tog, k2, slipm, k2, p2tog, work

in pattern to the marker.
Size 6m: p2tog, p1, k1, slipm, k1, p1, p2tog,

Sizes 12m and 6-7: p2tog, k2, p1, slipm,

p1, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Sizes 18m and 24m: skp, k1, p2, slipm,
p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Size 3T: skp, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k2tog,
Size 9m: p2tog, k2, slipm, k2, p2tog, work

in pattern to the marker.
Size 12m: p2tog, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2,
p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Size 18m: skp, k1, p2, slipm, p2, k1, k2tog,
Sizes 4T and 5T: p2tog, p1, k2, slipm, k2,

Size 8-9: skp, k1, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k1,
k2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
Size 24m: skp, k1, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k1,
Size 3T: skp, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k2tog,
Size 9-10: skp, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k2tog,

Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 20
Sizes 4T and 5T: p2tog, p1, k2, p1, slipm,
For example: k1, k1, p1, marker
p1, k2, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the
After the decrease you will have k1, p1,
marker.
marker
Size 6-7: p2tog, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2, p2tog,
If your 3rd stitch to the left from the

marker is p1, then decrease as p2tog.
Size 8-9: skp, k1, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k1,
For example: p1, k1, k1, marker
After the decrease you will have p1, k1,
Size 9-10: skp, p2, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p2,
marker
Decrease B is made as follows:
Size 10-12: p2tog, p1, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2,
If your 3rd stitch to the right from the

marker is k1, then decrease as skp.
Size 12-14: p2tog, k2, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2,
For example: marker, p1, p1, k1
k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.
After the decrease you will have marker, p1,

k1
All Versions:
If your 3rd stitch to the right from the

marker is p1, then decrease as p2tog.
You have just decreased your sleeves by 2
For example: marker, k1, k1, p1
sts.
After the decrease you will have marker, k1,
Work in pattern for 6 rnds.
p1
Next work a decrease round: (described

in detail below, the aim is to preserve the
Follow instructions for your desired option
appearance of the rib pattern as much as
and length.
possible).
Decrease Rnd: k1 or p1 (depending on
Short Sleeves (All Versions):
your size), decrease A, work in pattern to 3
Sizes 6m to 24m: work in pattern for 2
sts before marker, decrease B, k1 or p1
more rnds. Bind off in pattern.
(depending on your size).
All other sizes: repeat last 7 rnds, and
Decrease A is made as follows:
then work 2 rnds in pattern. Bind off in
If your 3rd stitch to the left from the
pattern.
marker is k1, then decrease as k2tog.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 21
Long Sleeves (Unisex/Boyish
34 (36, 38, 40, 40), (42, 44, 44, 46), (50, 52,
Version):
54, 58) sts.
Work in pattern until work measures 3 (3, 3,
All sizes:
3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4, 5, 5) inches or 7.5
Rnd 1: purl
(7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5), (7.5, 10, 10, 10), (10, 12.5,
Rnd 2: knit
12.5, 12.5) cm from the underarm.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 for
Work Decrease Rnd.
2 (2, 2, 2, 2), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) more
Work in pattern, working decrease rnd
times.
every 6th (6th, 7th, 8th, 8th), (8th, 8th, 9th, 9th),
Increase rnd: evenly increase across the
(9th, 10th, 11th, 11th) rnd until you have the
rnd as either M1R or dliR by 6 (8, 10, 10, 12),
following number of sts: 30 (34, 34, 36, 38),
(12, 14, 14, 14), (16, 16, 18, 20) sts.
(38, 38, 38, 40), (42, 44, 46, 46).
Work in pattern till sleeve measures about
52), (54, 58, 58, 60), (66, 68, 72, 78) sts.
6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 9, 10), (10.5, 11.5, 12, 13), (14,
Sleeves:
15, 16.5, 17.5) inches or 16.5 (19, 21.5, 23,
Knit for 1.5 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 3), (3.75, 4, 4, 5.5),
25.5), (26.5, 29.5, 30.5, 33), (35.5, 38, 42,
(6, 7, 7.5, 8.5) inches or 4 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5),
44.5) cm or till desired length.
(9.5, 10, 10, 14), (15, 18, 19, 21.5) cm.
Please note that due to the unusual
Go to Sleeve Cuff chapter, page 22.
construction the sleeve lengths given above

are about 1 inch/2.5 cm more than the
Full Length Sleeve:
average standard sleeve length.
Knit till your sleeve measures about 5.5 (7,
Bind off in pattern.
7.5, 8, 9), (9.5, 10.5, 11, 12), (13, 14, 15.5,

16.5) inches or 14 (18, 19, 20.5, 23), (24,
or full length Sleeves (Girly
26.5, 28, 30.5), (33, 35.5, 39.5, 42) cm as
Version):
measured from the underarm.
Sizes 6m to 24m: work in pattern for 1

rnd.
Please note that due to the unusual

construction the sleeve lengths given above
All other sizes: work in pattern for 8 rnds.
are about 1 inch/2.5 cm more than the
Stitch count should be:
average standard sleeve length.

Go to Sleeve Cuff chapter, page 22.
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 22
SLEEVE CUFF:
Knit and evenly decrease as k2tog by 12 (12, 14, 16, 16), (16, 18, 18, 20), (20, 20, 24, 28) sts.
Total stitch count should be 28 (32, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 40), (46, 48, 48, 50) sts.
Change to smaller sized needles (3.25 mm).
Rnd 1: purl
Rnd 2: knit and evenly decrease as k2tog by a further 3 (4, 3, 3, 3), (5, 5, 5, 4), (7, 7, 7, 7) sts.
Total stitch count should be 25 (28, 31, 33, 33), (33, 35, 35, 36), (39, 41, 41, 43) sts.
Rnd 3: purl
Rnd 4: knit.
Repeat Rnds 3 and 4 for 4-6 more times.
Bind off purlwise.
FINISHING TOUCHES:
Weave in any loose ends.
Sew the pockets on the inside of the

sweater if two pockets option was
chosen.
Sew pocket trim edge vertically to the

sweater.
Block the sweater.
Sew button(s) on.
Wear and enjoy!
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l | 23
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Heartfelt thanks and my deepest gratitude go to my wonderful group of testers (Angela,
Aneta, Cathy, Deidre, Emily, Erika, Esin, Eva, Janet, Justyna, Ilse, Klara, Kristin, Lynley, Maria,
Meg, Natasha, Paula, Vaida, and Zaviera), whose hard work and most valuable input made this
pattern possible.
Special thanks go to Janet for helping me with the presentation and editing of this pattern.
COPYRIGHT:
Please respect my designer rights, and as such the copyright of this pattern will always remain
with me. I am providing this pattern for personal home use only. You may make garments from
it as gifts or donate to charities and fundraisers. Commercial use of this pattern is a violation of
the copyright. Selling products made from this pattern or distributing this pattern in any
manner is prohibited under the copyright unless I, Elena Nodel, have granted express written
permission.
CONTACT INFORMATION:
Email: ElenaNodel@gmail.com
Website: www.AnadiomenaDesigns.com
Pattern Designs: www.ravelry.com/designers/Elena-Nodel
Colour Adventures Yarns on Etsy: www.Anadiomena.Etsy.com
Blog: www.AnadiomenaDesigns.blogspot.com
Ravelry Username: Anadiomena
Ravelry Group: Anadiomena's Adventures
Facebook: www.Facebook.com/AnadiomenasDesigns
Twitter: www.Twitter.com/AnadiomenasDesi
REFERENCES:
Directional Lifted Increases:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnrV0Uf2cLk&NR=1
How to decrease stitches evenly across a row:
www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/EvenlySpace.html
How increase stitches evenly across a row:
www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/IncreaseEvenlySpace.html
Elena Nodel 2012
M a g i c a l C h e c k M a r k T a b l e s | 24
Check Mark Table for Cable A and corresponding sizes:
Written Cable A Instructions

Rnd 1
p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3
Rnd 2
p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2
Rnd 3
p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1
Rnd 4
p1, k2, p6, k2, p1
Rnd 5
p1, k2, p6, k2, p1
Rnd 6
p1, k2, p6, k2, p1
Rnd 7
p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1
Rnd 8
k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1
Rnd 9
k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1
Rnd 10
k1, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k1
Rnd 11
k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1
Rnd 12
k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1
Rnd 13
k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1
Rnd 14
k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1
Rnd 15
k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1
Rnd 16
k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2
Rnd 17
k2, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k2
Rnd 18
k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2
Rnd 19
k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2
Rnd 20
k2, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k2
Rnd 21
k2, p1, close cable loop, p1, k2
Sleeve Increases
Elena Nodel 2012
Front and Back Increases
M a g i c a l C h e c k M a r k T a b l e s | 25
Check Mark Table for Cable B and corresponding sizes:

Written Cable B Instructions
Rnd 1
p4, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p4
Rnd 2
p3, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3
Rnd 3
p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2
Rnd 4
p1, 2/1 RPC, p6, 2/1 LPC, p1
Rnd 5
p1, k2, p8, k2, p1
Rnd 6
p1, k2, p8, k2, p1
Rnd 7
p1, k2, p8, k2, p1
Rnd 8
p1, k2, p8, k2, p1
Rnd 9
p1, 2/1 LPC, p6, 2/1 RPC, p1
Rnd 10
k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1
Rnd 11
k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1
Rnd 12
k1, p3, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p3, k1
Rnd 13
k1, p4, 2/2 LC, p4, k1
Rnd 14
k1, p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3, k1
Rnd 15
k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1
Rnd 16
k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1
Rnd 17
k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1
Rnd 18
k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1
Rnd 19
k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1
Rnd 20
k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1
Rnd 21
k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2
Rnd 22
k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2
Rnd 23
k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2
Rnd 24
k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2
Rnd 24
k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2
Rnd 26
k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2
Rnd 27
k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2
Rnd 28
k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2
Rnd 29
k3, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k3
Rnd 30
k3, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k3
Rnd 31
k3, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k3
Rnd 32
k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3
Rnd 33
k3, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k3
Rnd 34
k3, p1, close cable loop, p1, k3
Sleeve Increases
Elena Nodel 2012
Front and Back Increases

Magical

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Magical |1

Magical is the second design in the ebook,

Elena Nodel 2012

Gauge: 21 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with US #5/3.75 mm

Elena Nodel 2012

p2tog = purl two stitches together as one,

US #3/3.25 mm circular needles (30 cm and

skp = slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the

US #3/3.25 mm double pointed needles

over the knitted one;

US # 5/ 3.75 mm circular needles (30cm, 40

knit into the back of the same stitch, then

i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2;

US #5/3.75 mm double pointed needles

following stitch, then pass the slipped stitch

3 stitch markers A, 2 markers B, and 1

slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made

3 mm crochet hook (optional)

dliR = directional lifted increase to the right

Tapestry needle (optional);

(see reference chapter): pick up the loop on

the row below the next stitch on the left

needle, knit it;

Lengths of waste yarn/stitch holder;

dliL = directional lifted increase to the left

1 button (~1/2 inch wide);

(see reference chapter):pick up the loop 2

2 optional buttons (3/4-1 inch wide).

rows below the last stitch worked on the

right needle and knit it;

M1L = left leaning increase; with the left

the front, then knit through the back of the

needle pick up the bar between stitches from

behind, then knit through the front loop;

M1RP = right leaning increase; with the left

needle pick up the bar between stitches from

RS = right side of the work;

behind, then purl through the front loop.

WS = wrong side of the work;

Garter ridge = is a ridge formed by

i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2 sts;

knitting RS and WS once.

Elena Nodel 2012

Cable Key Abbreviations:

3. Then pass the formed stitch back to left needle.

Elena Nodel 2012

5. Then transfer formed stitch back to the right needle.

7. Then transfer formed stitch back to the left

8. Leave the stitch where it is and purl it.

needle; pass the first stitch on the left needle

Elena Nodel 2012

Elena Nodel 2012

Elena Nodel 2012

Round 9: p1, 2/1 LPC, p6, 2/1 RPC, p1.

Elena Nodel 2012

Note: the larger sections of stitches

Using long tail cast on and 40 cm larger

Row 2 (WS): k3, slipm, work sleeves as

given for your size, slipm, kfb x2, slipm,

Rows 1-3 (WS, RS, WS): knit.

Row 4(RS) buttonhole row: k2, yo,

Sleeves Sizes 6m and 8-9 only:

Sizes 6m to 24m only:

k2, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till marker

k2, (p2, k2), repeat * till marker

p1, (k2, p2), repeat * till last 3 sts before

p2, (k2, p2), repeat * till marker

k1, (p2, k2), repeat * till last 3 sts before

k2, (p2, k2), repeat * till marker

p1, (k2, p2) , repeat * till last 3 sts before