/

^'

WITH NUMEROUS

ILLUSTRrlllo^^S

"

^.nooP^

Presented to the

LIBRARY of the
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
from
the estate of

MAKK SELTZER

^o,

"H Uti^vbi-^

-6

BEYOND
THE

HIMALAYAS.

A STORY OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE IN

THE WILDS OF THIBET.

BY

JOHN GEDDIE,
AUTHOR OP " THE LAKE REGIONS OP CENTRAL
ETC.

"JViTH

T.

AFRICA.'

ETC.

Jllustrations.

NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW.

EDINBURGH

AND NEW YORK.

1884.

preface.

HE

problem of opening up an overland route

from the Ganges to the Yang-tze

subject

which has long piqued and baffled the curiosity

of their seniors

ought

tion for the imagination of

young

and

gers.

Many have

if,

for

as formerly,

strange and wild

wares

his

whole nest of

the

China,

"

and dan-

two crowded Eastern

the

the

to

find

explorer,

in

search

Chinese puzzles" regarding the

;

and the

missionary, in pursuit of his self-denying labours.

at one point, however,

Only

and by a roundabout way, has

the journey been accomplished.

reflect

trader,

courses of giant rivers and mountain chains

when we

attrac-

sought of late years to climb over

India and

new market
of a

some

in encountering manifold obstacles

the division-wall between

worlds of

people,

among

they take delight in wandering

scenes,

to have

This

is

not wonderful,

that the traveller in these countries

must run the gauntlet

of savage

mountain

tribes, jealous

PREFACE.

VI

Chinese
to

officials,

and fanatical Thibetan lamas, in addition

surmounting the extraordinary natural

the frayed-out ends of

crossing

interpose between the

The

Assam

difficulties of

the Himalayas that

frontier

and China proper.

surface of this unexplored region

wrinkled up

is

into deep folds, like the hide of a rhinoceros

these furrows
to flow,

and down

rank are known

five rivers of the first

though their channels have never been traced

throughout.

the

Their sources are in

most remote

nooks of the table-land of Thibet, and their waters

find

an outlet at points so

Shanghai.

But here

far apart as Calcutta

a space their

for

and

main courses are

drawn together within a narrow compass, resembling,

to

use the expression of Colonel Yule, the learned editor

of

"

Marco

Polo,"

"

the fascis of thunderbolts in the

clutch of Jove, or the parallel lines of railway at Clap-

ham

It is over this, the

Junction."

most

difficult bit of

"cross country" perhaps in the world, that

seeks to lead the reader

and as there

is

Bob Brown
no authentic

record of the same line of country having been traversed,

it is

impossible to say

found to agree with

how

nearly his narrative will be

At the same time the scenery

facts.

and manners described resemble what might be expected

from the

relations

Gill,

and others

of

the

distinguished French and

Hue,
who have

English explorers

Carne, Cooper, Margary, Baber,

western China and Thibet.

penetrated

into

South-

(Monitnh

I.

II.

III.

"mysteries,"

THE JOURNEY INTO THE HILLS,

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK,

...

30

IV.

THE IRON WALL,

...

57

V.

UPS AND DOWNS,

...

61

VI.
VII.
VIII.

IX.

X.
XI.
XII.

THE VALLEY OP THE SHADOW,

76

YAKS AND LAMAS,

89

...

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS,

105

A HAVEN OF

113

AMONG THE

REST,
PIGTAILS,

124

PERILS BY LAND,

...

137

PERILS BY WATER,

...

145

XIII.

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES,

152

XIV.

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM,

1G8

XV.
XVI.
XVII.

A HALT IN A PAGODA,

181

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST,

193

THE LOST

204

CITY,

XVin. THE GREAT SAPPHIRE,

XIX. LOST,

XX. FOUND,

220

233
244

BEYOND THE HIMALAYAS.

CHAPTER
"

MYSTERIES.'

WONDER
We

I.

what

were

Europeans,

lies

sitting,

in

?"

beyond
a

group

of

the veranda of a bunga-

The

low into which an Indian sunset was shining.

scene was intensely tropical and Eastern.
plants

twined

trellis -work

up the

four

of

Climbing

the

veranda,

festooning the pillars with masses of broad green leaves,

starred with brilliant

purple and scarlet flowers.

In

the garden beyond were clumps of foliage and blossom

of types

only

in

which
a

home" you

conservatory.

dwarfed and
pale

" at

drooping

But

exotics

in exile, the plants

had a

are accustomed to see

here,

instead

of

the

and grow

that

pine

free,

vigorous growth

that showed that they were breathing native

air.

It

MYSTERIES.

10

was

like

the difference, in

of wild animals cooped

up

fact,

between a collection

in a menagerie

and the same

creatures roaming free in their forest haunts.

too,

some of them

and

rare,

familiar,

but

many

of

Fruits,

them strange

shone out temptingly from amid the dusk of the

leaves like great golden orbs, or in clusters.

The huge,

clumsy form of an elephant could be descried moving

up one

of the avenues towards the house, his pendulous

trunk swinging to and fro in unison with his deliberate

step,

and only occasionally vouchsafing a discontented

grunt in reply to the appeals of the mahout to increase

his speed.

native gardener, dressed, like the elephant

driver, in white calico,

which made a striking contrast

with his dusky

was approaching

face,

leisurely manner, bearing

in

an equally

on his shoulders the hoes and

other tools with which he had been trimming the walks.

Other black attendants were preparing the hookahs for

the last evening smoke, and removing the cups from

which we had been drinking a fragrant draught of tea

while in the large chamber behind, on the other side of
the green jalousies, the lamps were being lighted.
All this spoke unmistakably of Hindostan.

But looking away from the

prospect

that

features in the

the

veranda

house,

over the wide

commanded, there were

landscape that would have struck an

Anglo-Indian as not familiar in Indian scenery.

hill-slope stretched

down

A long

in front of us, covered with

"

dark masses of virgin

clearings, planted

MYSTERIES.
forest,

with

11

between which were wide

short, trimly-kept shrubs, that

young

practised eye might have recognized to be

trees.

At a

distance of a mile

and a

channels, separated from each other

belts of the

by

tea-

half, or rather

many

more, a great river flowed through the valley in

covered with

islands densely

bamboos, and reeds, and broad

sal-trees,

same vegetation bounded the two

Our bungalow looked partly

across

shores.

and partly up the

stream, on the other side of which wood-covered hills

rose

peak behind peak, with deep ravines seaming

sides,

and dark valleys winding between

until their colours

their folds,

and shapes seemed to melt into those

of the array of clouds attending

upon the sun, who was

How

about to set behind them.

splendours of that tropical evening

ness and the

their

harmony

shall I describe the

the gorgeous rich-

of the piled-up masses of vapour,

the soft glow of the unfathomable depths of rosy, pearly,

and cream - coloured

sky that lay between, and the

flood of level light that poured across the

mountains

from the descending sun

must

with his own eyes in order

to

see such a

picture

have a conception of

already falling

on

its

It

is

indescribable

beauty.

the river

one

The shadows were

some

figures

that

we

had been watching as they moved through the reeds

might

be

yet been

a group
driven

of

home

tame buflaloes that had not

;

or

troop

of

wild

cattle

"

12

MYSTERIES."

taking possession of one of

or

it

their island strongholds

might even be native boatmen punting their way

up one

of the

narrow

creeks, so

dim had

their outlines

become.

The

however, struck on another great range

light,

of mountains on the hither side of the stream,

whose

purple sides rose like a mysterious and impassable wall

on our extreme

It

right.

was

in the direction of this

range that the speaker's eyes were turned as he pro-

nounced the words that stand at the opening of the

chapter.

have to introduce him

most important personage in

this

first,

as

by

far the

You had

narrative.

only to glance at Dr. Roland to see that he was no

ordinary
that

my
face

is

"

man

what

Tom

chum,"

At

either in physique or intellect.

I felt

when

I first set eyes

on him

least
;

and
His

Wilson, felt exactly the same.

and neck had been burned a ruddy brown by

exposure to

many a

blazing sun, and deep study had

ploughed one or two wrinkles in his broad brow, though

he was

still

man under

trace of the fatigue

middle age.

and hardships he had endured in

travelling all over the globe, in his

His eye had none

was bright and kindly, and

not describe his features in
face

tall,

powerful

figure.

of the supercilious or abstracted ex-

pression that repels one in some

that his

There was no

inspired

men

of learning

alert like his step.

detail,

it

I shall

and need only say

you from the

first

with con-

"

fidence

and

to love

it.

Tom and
we

us,

felt

lost that

know

that

wken we heard

that so great a

it

my

man was coming

a great awe of him.

awe, but

13

and that you afterwards learned

respect,
I

MYSTERIES,"

We

friend

to visit

never entirely

soon became merged in the strong

personal attachment which

we

learned to entertain for

him.

He had come

to spend a

friend Mr. Marshall,

district of

who had

settled in the

Upper Assam, and with

and your humble servant

my

as Robert, or, as
call

few weeks with

me, Bob Brown

his old

most remote

whom Tom

I forgot to introduce

Wilson
myself

familiar acquaintances choose to

had been

living for nearly a year,

learning the business of tea-planting.

The doctor brought,

along with his inseparable negro servant Hannibal,

whom

he had rescued from a dismal swamp in Louisiana where

the poor hunted fellow had found shelter from a brutal
slave-master, a wonderful collection of explorers' appa-

ratus

quadrants, chronometers, thermometers, aneroids,

know

botanical cases, collecting boxes, and I

else

for

besides rifles

his love of

science.
use,

sport

wing

and over

it

and other instruments

was only second

of the

bungalow was

Hannibal lay in watch

to his love of

set apart for his

like a

we were often of an evening privileged to

not what

of the chase,

dragon

but

enter the doctor's

sanctum, and looked on with breathless interest while he

made experiments

or classified the plants

and animals he

14

"

had secured during

his

making

MYSTERIES."

good - naturedly

day's tramp,

commentary on the

for our benefit a running

habits and peculiarities of the beetles, spiders,

that he tenderly spitted

lichens, orchids,

and pressed
times, too,

on

and ants

and of the mosses,

pins,

and ferns that he carefully spread out

Some-

to death in the interests of science.

we had had

the treat of accompanying

him on

his sporting excursions to the hills or in the jungles along

the river side, and had under his eye bowled over

many

a head of forest game, such as wild pig and deer, though

our teacher in the art had hitherto taken the post of
danger, and had reserved to his
elephants,

rhinoceroses,

buffaloes,

own gun

the tigers,

and bears that had

come in our way.

was not strange that

It

come

in the circumstances

to regard Dr. Roland with enthusiastic admiration

we would not have done

that there was nothing that

show our devotion

was

to him,

It

towards those eastern

and heard him express

the other

wall ?"

as familiarly

with

his "

a baffled

wonder"

as to

surprise

gazing

away

and eager

air,

what was on

side.

Can you not

first

know

we watched him

hills,

to

our view, there

that, in

was therefore with some

as well as curiosity that

the

and

scarcely anything that he did not

as the alphabet.

"

we had

tell us,

then,

to break the silence, "

sir,"

said

what

is

Tom, who was

beyond that big

"

"

MYSTERIES.

15

Mystery," said the doctor, dropping his voice to a

stage whisper, but looking all the while

serious,
"

that

Do you know, young

"

fate

the

romance

still

around which a

And yet you can

he continued,

has placed you in the one nook of

inhabitable earth
lingers

more than half

fellows,"

little

find nothing

do than killing chickens."

(This

more heroic

was a bantering

had shot a

fowl,

all

"

There

is

about you, except along the valley

by which you came up hither from Calcutta.

there

Those heights across the

river,

behind which the sun

just about to hide himself, are, as

hills of

huge

That

Afghanistan

nay, as I could

There

is

and grandeur.

hot steaming plains

above

tier

carries

you

No

of

you

is

foot-

me

tell

neither then can

I.

mountain range stretches from here to

and the Crimea.

for height

you know, the

Can any

the great Himalaya.

the secrets of their recesses

the

to the edge of

the plantation, in mistake for a pheasant.)

mystery brooding

refer-

when

ence to an exploit of mine on the previous day,

that had strayed away

to

like

to

show you,

nothing like

Its base rises

of

India,

a vast staircase of
glittering

to the Caucasus
it

heights,

in the world

from

directly

and ascends
mountains
thousands

tier

till

of

it

feet

above the line of perpetual snow, that will never be

trodden by man.
until

If

you climb up by one

of the passes,

your head swims and you catch your breath in

short gasps

by reason

of the rarity of the air,

you

will

"

18

find that there

MYSTEEIES."

comparatively speaking, no slope to

is,

descend."
"

Then, has the Himalaya only one side ?" I asked.

Bob

" Yes,

and on the top

is

Thibet and the Roof of

the World."
"

And what happens

to

you

after

you get on the

roof ?"

You remember what happened to the Duke of York

and his ten thousand men ?" said Mr. Marshall, smiling.
" He marched them up a hill, and marched them down
"

I wouldn't advise you, Master Bob, to attempt

again.

The Thibetans might take a fancy not

that climb.
let

you away at

all,

to

but nail you up on the frontier as

a warning to other trespassers, as a gamekeeper does a

weasel."
"

Why

should

stupid country

?"

make such a

they
said

Tom

fuss about their

in a tone of disgust.

" I

never heard that there was anything very pretty to be

seen there."
.

" It is the

the world,

Holy Land

my

by being the

of one of the great religions of

made

sacred

Grand Lama, the

living

" It is

boy," said the doctor.

residence of the

Buddha, and must be kept pure from the profane feet

of unbelievers,

the country.
I believe that

hand

all

who might

besides take a fancy to occupy

They have guarded

their frontiers well.

you could count on the

the Europeans

who have

fingers of one

penetrated to the

"

I think

heart of Thibet.
It

ever.

is

MYSTERIES.
it is

17

very foolish policy, how-

a cold, wild, and barren region.

If the

lamas opened their doors to strangers, they would soon

satisfy their curiosity

But

and go away.

as

long as

they keep the world waiting outside, the world will

want

But leaving that matter

to get in.

the

that great river there,

grown from the

one knows
stream of

Isn't

its size

full-

with no fountain-head that any

hills,

of.

aside, look at

Bramaputra, coming

that a mystery

about which there

is

There
so

much

is

no

con-

jecture."

thought the maps made

" I

said
"

Tom
You

it

out to be the Sanpoo,"

Wilson meekly.
mustn't pin your faith to
"

the doctor replied.

Some

of

all

you

find in maps,"

the wildest and most

fanciful romances extant are to be found in these lines

of

mountain ranges,

rivers,

and deserts which the geo-

In this case they have heard

graphers trace for you.

of a stream that flows through the highlands of Thibet,

and then they perceive a

flood of waters issuing

the hills to meet the Ganges.

bare

highlands

above

is

The

from

river of the cold,

no more like the tropical

stream below there than the hard-featured Thibetan

like the mild

Hindu and they run in opposite

;

is

directions.

But the people that make the maps don't know whither
the one goes, nor from whence the other comes
"

And

(090)

so,"

interrupted Mr. Marshall,

2

"

they join the

"

18

head of the

MYSTERIES."

to the tail of the second,

first

and construct

a monster like the mermaid that the Yankee showman

made out

monkey and

of a

what

doctor,

map-makers

these yarning

"I could not do a

" I

his head.

fall

of strange capers,

?"

shaking

bit better," said our sage,

But

just think

Why,

in that mysterious gap.

over a

the

score of precipices, cut all sorts

and be

terribly

shaken and jumbled

What

is

to hinder

from diving wholly underground, letting

this river

before
it

But come now,

fish.

you make yourself than

daresay they are right.

what might happen

Sanpoo must

better splice could

becomes the Bramaputra.

it

flow over the top of

side
"

and going

"It

is

then popping up on the other

off to join the

Come, come,

" this beats the

it,

my

Irrawady

friend," said Mr. Marshall, laughing;

maps hollow

as a fiction."

not so utterly impossible as you fancy," re-

sponded Dr. Roland gravely.

happen up there with the

"

All sorts of queer things

rivers.

They have a

trick of

disappearing in the earth, and coming to the surface

again miles and miles away, after traversing

'

caverns

measureless to man,' like Alph, the Sacred River that

By

the

suddenly turning to

us,

ran by the palace of the great Kublai Khan.

way, youngsters," he went

"

you have read Marco

"

on,

Polo's travels of course

No," I answered shamefacedly.

Tom

plucked up a

little

courage on the strength of

"

his

"

having once

MYSTERIES."

ground up

the history of the medi-

an examination

eval traveller as

had long ago forgotten

"

"

subject, and, of course,

he was beginning,

so

it;

19

Wasn't that the old Venetian bloke that

" Please don't call

doctor sternly
to describe

Marco Polo a

" indeed, I

am

any one by that

of the earth at least

'

"

broke in the

bloke,' "

not sure that

But the great ones

title.

must be spoken of with respect;

and you would never talk

of Christopher Columbus, or

Vasco da Gama, or David Livingstone, as a

Brave old Marco

I

proper

it is

'

bloke.*

one of the same glorious band

is

cannot fancy anything more

entrancing

and

young

to

fellows like you, or to your elders either, than the story

of his marvellous journey across Asia, if only

your head
should,

into

and try

what you

to see with your

describes in his quaint

quented regions he

'

mind's eye

What

language.

carries

heights you scale, and

you put

read, as, of course, every one

you

into

what he

wild, unfre-

What giddy

what abysses you

'

cross,

from the

time that you land with the needy soldier of fortune on

the shores of Asia Minor until you see

him

return, loaded

with Tartar wealth and honours, to his native

are brought

by the

cities of

city.

You

Samarcand and Balkh, over

the Pamir steppe, and across deserts of sand and stones

and

salt

by a route that no Western

been able to follow

way

of the

Old

Man

traveller has since

and you hear strange tidings by the

of the Mountain, of Prester John, of

"

20

Gog and Magog,

MYSTERIES.

of wild camels

of sapphire, jasper,

and hairy oxen,

and chalcedony, and

mines

of

of the mysterious

Then when you

voices that haunt the Wilderness of Lob.

reach the Court of the Grand Khan, what barbaric riches

and splendour you witness within and without the royal

palace,

whose walls are thirty-two miles

in circuit,

great hall where the fierce Tartar warriors,

perhaps fought their

to

way

the

who had

from Japan

across the world

Germany, drank wine out

of flagons of gold; the

hunting parties that set out in chase of the lion and

smaller game, with falcons and leashes of leopards and

lynxes;

and the splendid stud of milk-white horses

from which the chargers of the princes were chosen.

After that you pass on through exceeding

and magnificent
rivers
"

and

rich, powerful,

broad and noble

across

"

Stop, stop

" cried

making the eyes

of

cities,

worthy Signor

their bundles

"

Mr. Marshall.

See

how you

are

of these lads sparkle with your stories

Polo's travels

They

and setting out in quest

sands of gold dust, and perhaps will

will be packing

of his river with

fall

into the

jaws

of that wonderful serpent of his with claws like a tiger

and glaring eyes

'

bigger than a f ourpenny

us rather about your plan for your

own

loaf.'

trip

Tell

up the

mountains next week."

" I

was

just coming to that," said the doctor. " Marco's

River of Gold Sands

is

on the other side of these moun-

"

tains.

we

If

could

'

MYSTERIES.

interview

'

21

him, I daresay he could

us more of the country beyond than any one knows

tell

we have

to-day, for

learned very

in the six hun-

little

dred years since he wandered through China.

if

I have time, to go as far

sible,

up through the

with the hope of seeing a

little

I intend,

hills as pos-

into the heart of

the mystery."

Tom and

We

exchanged eager glances.

promised two or three weeks' holidays, and

cherished hope that we would be allowed

had been
it

was our

to spend

them

You may be sure that when we heard

was to be we became more than ever

with Dr. Roland.

what

his route

ardent in our wish to accompany him.

"

Where does

the road

lie

over these

hills

"

began

Tom.
"

That

exactly the question," said the doctor, knit-

is

ting his brows musingly.

is

a road at

all.

"

Nobody can say

that there

Here we are within a comparatively

few miles of the confines of China, and we might, for

we

see or hear of

it,

be as

many thousand

all

leagues away.

There must be somewhere up there an *iron wall' of

division between India
five or six

hundred millions of people

tants of the earth

met

and China; and

down

vast circuit

about road."

to this day.

either for trade or war, they

by Cabul and Kashgar,

it

has kept apart

half the inhabi-

When

they have

have had to make a

or

some other round-

22
" Is it impassable, then, sir

much

" I don't

believe either in

I daresay there

possible.'

the obstacle
there going

if

"
?

is

way

one could only hit

home

to roost

high-flier enough,

'

it.

knows the

some of the

hill

impassable

or

im-

of clambering over
I fancy that stork

clue

or

if

he

is

vultures could

not
tell

you."
"

What do you

sir ?" I

think one would find

if

he got over,

asked.

" Well, Bob, that

lucky

man would

probably find a

deep valley, ending in a chasm with precipitous walls

and a

river at the

a canon; and

if

bottom

what they

call in

America

he managed to scramble down without

breaking his neck, and embarked on the stream, he

would be shot down

many

for

and shot at by wild

tribes

weeks, and at length find himself sailing

down

cataracts

the Irrawady, past the Peacock Palace of Mandalay, the

thousand temples of Pagham, and the Golden Pagoda of

Rangoon, to the
"

sea."

That would bo a lucky man indeed," said Mr. Mar-

shall, lauo^hinor.

"

But

if

he despised following the

river,

and scaled

the range of mountains beyond," continued the doctor,

"

he would come upon just such another ravine and

stream, and this would carry

more through a

him a thousand

wild, untraversed

miles and

back-country, amid

half-barbarous Shans and wholly savage Karens,

per-

23

haps past the mines of rubies and sapphires of the king

of Ava,

would

until he

find himself at the

mouth

of

the Salwen, in the British harbour of Moulmein, in the

Bay
"

of Bengal."

And suppose he

over

^which

it

is

despised the Salwen too, and skipped

way

the only

I see of crossing it

asked the master of the house.

"Then

at a short distance,

terribly long in time, for

among the

clouds, he

would carry him high up

it

would

measured by space, but

find a third

and

greater

still

river

the Mekong.

And

if

canoe,

and

still

clung to him, he would pass

his

amid scenes

luck

he built for himself a bark

of incredible grandeur

and

terror,

through

the very heart of Indo-China, emerging at last

the French settlers in Saigon.

were

enough

good

not

for

If

the

the

among

Mekong

attention

itself

of

this

haughty explorer, he would only have to go a stage or

two

further,

of Thibet,

and

after another sojourn in the mountains

he might get

and

afloat

on the River of Golden

Sand,

the head-waters of the mighty Yang-tze-Kiang

itself,

descend, past junks and joss-houses, pagodas

and porcelain towers, exchanging nods with mandarins

and bonzes,
'

to the Pacific Ocean.

So, instead of

one

iron wall,' there are four lines of ramparts at least, with

a deep trench between each, separating us from the

Flowery Land."
"

May Tom and

go with you to the

hills, sir ? "

said

MYSTERIES.

24

I,

after a pause, looking appealingly

Tom meanwhile

Mr. Marshall,

from the doctor to

seconding the request with

his eyes.
It

was now the turn

of

the

elders

to

exchange

glances.
"

You would be

of great use to me, boys, I admit,"

said the doctor gravely; "but the journey will be a

rough one and not without some danger.

been
less.

you know,

stories,

There have

of the hill tribes being rest-

You would be away three weeks at least, and

know that Mr. Marshall can spare you for

do not

so long."
"

Let us go inside and talk the matter over," said Mr.

" It is

Marshall.

beginning to

fall."

When we
bungalow,

already almost dark, and the dews are

were

was

it

Tom and

I should

proceeded

listened

all

accompany Dr. Koland

was long

It

fall asleep

that night

dreamed that
shaggy yak,

ere excitement

fleeing

saucer eyes that chased

yawning

gulfs,

we

at the

would allow me

and when at length I dozed

was Marco

was

and we then

discuss the arrangements for the

to

journey.

our elders proceeded, while

or rather

eagerly

seated round the table in the

settled, after serious consideration, that

Polo,

and

that,

off,

to
I

mounted on a

from a hideous dragon with

me up

steep hills

bottom of which

and across

I could hear

water gurgling and roaring through caverns, while the

"MYSTERIES."
crashes of the stones as they

bumped from rock

into the abyss somided loudly in

I

found that

nightmare,

my

25

my

ears.

to rock

Awakening,

neighbour Tom, also suffering from

was snorting violently

wildly beating the wall with his

fists.

in

his

sleep

and

CHAPTER

II

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

RIGHT

HILLS.

and early one morning, a week

after

the conversation recorded in last chapter,

set out

So early

was

it

we

on our journey to the mountains.

that some of the stars had not faded

from the sky, and the fog had not yet cleared away
from the banks of the Bramaputra when we turned our
backs upon

it

and our faces towards the

ning to glimmer over these

associate with all that

heavier luggage was

elephants.

warm

One

is

which we had come to

mystic and marvellous.

carried our tent,

clothing which

Our

packed upon the backs of two

we

mountain-tops to which

who

hills

sunrise, begin-

hammocks, and the

expected to require on the cold

we were bound.

Hannibal

would, I believe, have undertaken to drive a giraife

or a hippopotamus in the service of his master

was

in

charge of the other huge beast (Ghenghiz by name), and

from his elevated seat glanced with an

air of

calm pride

at the cooking apparatus, the doctor's scientific instru-

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

ments, and the packages

and spare

cartridges,

to call

him

containing

for

an

preserved

meat,

that were neatly arranged

Han, as we were accustomed

or

would have made a

and white"

27

rifles

Hannibal

behind him.

HILLS.

capital " study in black

It is impossible to

artist.

imagine

anything blacker than his skin or whiter than his newly-

washed cotton uniform,

or than the whites of his eyes

and his rows of shining

teeth, as

in

acknowledgment

of a

word

he grinned delightedly

of praise

gave him for his arrangements.

about him was his hair

(his

becoming grizzled with age

Han was
a

still

faithful,

which the doctor

The only neutral

but though past his youth,

whom we

were not long

discovering a thousand good qualities that

expected.

He was

though we suspected

time that he would have

expressed the slightest wish

members
;

of

that

in

all

the

if

Dr. Roland

direction.

The

our party were mounted on

and behind

us,

about a dozen Assamese natives,

as porters

not

hesitation in cooking

little

either of us for his master's breakfast,

stout hill ponies

we had

in

kind enough to take a patronizing

interest in us youngsters,

three white

He was

possessed of enormous strength.

honest fellow, in

tint

wool rather), which was

in

Indian

who were

file,

came

to act partly

and partly as guides and beaters of game.

Mr. Marshall accompanied us a

little

way, and we parted from him with

and many admonitions on

his

distance on our

warm

side to

hand-shakes,

be wary and

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

28

careful

of

and not

ourselves,

HILLS.

overstay

to

long

our

time.

am

not going to narrate in detail our experiences in

the earlier part of the journey, having perhaps already

much time in preliminary description, and

having much more exciting events to tell of further on.
We tried to cover as much ground as possible in the
spent too

day's march.

We

weeks or a month

and

it

We

occasionally

thought

we

had

we

little

provisioned " for three

was our

into the mountains as possible,

time.

"

were only

time,

and

desire to get as far

to return within that

sport;

therefore, for

got a shot at a deer, and twice

but

we

saw the striped yellow coat of a tiger slink-

ing through the jimgle.

came upon a small herd

On

one occasion

we suddenly

of wild elephants

one another in a pool in the river

shampooing

but immediately they

caught sight of us they trumpeted loudly, scrambled up

the bank, and were crashing their

bamboos before we could unsling our

When we

way through
rifles

the

and take aim.

pitched our tent and " went into camp" in the

evening, some of us generally turned out with rod and

line,

and in half an hour would bring in a basket

trout,

which under Hannibal's

capital addition to our fare.

the

first

skilful

of fine

hands made a

The track we followed

few days was one well marked by the

for

feet of

elephants, cattle, and natives, generally leading through

thick scrub and forest, and keeping near to the banks of

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

stream

the

that

down

flowed

HILLS.

to

29

Bramaputra.

the

Often our eyes were unable to penetrate more than a

few yards into the depths

of the forest, so dense

and

matted was the wall of trunks and branches woven

together
side

by

creepers of every size that rose on either

while overhead the leaves met so closely as almost

Though

to shut out the light of the sun even at mid-day.

the air in these leafy tunnels

was

and damp, we

close

were glad to escape the hot glare of the sun that we

encountered as soon as

we

reached the open.

We

could

then see steep rocky banks hemming in the stream

we

were ascending, and gradually drawing nearer and be-

coming more precipitous as we advanced.

still

They were

covered with vegetation to the summits; but ahead

of us

we

sight,

and at night a breeze swept down the valley that

could see bare and jagged peaks coming into

felt as if it

had blown over snow, and made us glad of

the shelter of our tent and blankets.

Every mile we

advanced the mountains seemed to wrap us more closely

in their folds, to take

and

to look

more strange and distorted

down more frowningly on

shapes,

us as trespassers

in their domain.

On

the sixth day after

Poolongyan,

we

struck

we had

off"

left

the path

our bungalow at

we had

hitherto

been following, and took a more direct cut into the

mountains, by a side valley on our right.

who had

Dr. Roland,

carefully studied the lines of the hills

and the

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

30

HILLS.

sketches and accounts of previous travellers, and cross-

questioned the native guides, had come to the conclusion

that

was

it

in this direction,

be found.

It

in quest of

was now, however, that the

march began.

of the

anywhere, that a depres-

if

snowy range we were

sion in the great

would

real difficulties

Regular path there was none,

though now and then we could take advantage of well-

marked

lanes ploughed through the mass of juYigle

by

the heavy bodies of elephants and rhinoceroses, and here

and there could trace narrow

trails

that had apparently

been followed by the wild native tribes in their hunting

or

We

marauding excursions.

elephants to the front to beat

had

send our

to

down a

own

track through the

undergrowth, and our guides had to ply their knives

vigorously upon the tough bamboos, lianas, and reeds
before

we

Often

could penetrate the thickets.

we were

compelled to take to the bed of the stream, in which,

fortunately, as the dry season

there

was comparatively

horses,

and

men

little

scrambled

had now
water

fairly set in,

and elephants,

and stumbled over the

slippery boulders and ledges in the most uncomfortable

way.

It

was wonderful

to see the care

and surefooted-

ness of our sagacious beasts as they picked their

from rock to rock

into the stream,

escaped

but sometimes they would

and the

without

riders

bruises,

in

slip

were fortunate
addition

Hannibal was fain to descend from

to

if

way
down
they

wetting.

his hie^h station

on

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

his elephant's neck,

81

where he was jolted about and torn

and lashed with thorns and

and to pursue the way on
ever, this part o

HILLS.

briers

more than he

liked,

For Dr. Roland, how-

foot.

the journey yielded a rich harvest.

His geologist's hammer was constantly in requisition,

chipping fragments of the rock, and his note-book, in

which he entered the

results of his researches,

be seldom long out of his hands.

We,

seemed to

of course, flung

ourselves with extraordinary ardour into the task of

assisting
birds.

him

We

in the discovery of

were so

successful,

new

plants, insects,

and

and gained so much praise

from our patron, that Hannibal, who appeared to see

scientific functions invaded,

vulgar duty of

his

while he was doomed to the

looking after the baggage, began to

regard us with disdain and perhaps a spice of jealousy.

On

the whole, however,

good-humour.

as could be expected,
gress that

we were

any previous

we were

all

in high spirits

and

Everything had hitherto gone as smoothly

and we had made such good pro-

already beyond the limits reached

by

explorer.

we had been ascending was gradually

changing to a gorge.
Where we could get a glimpse of
the hills above us, we could see great cliffs towering up
The

to

little

valley

meet the sky, with

trees

and shrubs clinging

crannies,

and

the

and shadino: them as with a ^een

cliffs

trailing plants

to the

hanging over the edge of

veil

while

overhead huge naked boulders were piled one above

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

32

HILLS.

another, and appeared only to wait the

wind
see

first

In front we could

to fall crashing into the valley.

where the perpendicular walls closed

in,

leaving only

a narrow passage between them, and ahead

hear the sound of falling waters.
waterfall, however,

we had

breath of

we

could

Before reaching the

to traverse a sort of canal,

where the stream had an almost imperceptible flow

between marshy banks covered with dense jungle and
forest trees that interlaced their branches

Under

arcade overhead.

leafy

and formed a

gloomy archway,

this

through which the sun only here and there shot down a
pencil of light,

we waded

for

more than half a mile with

the water nearly to our armpits.

van, holding aloft his

rifle

The doctor

and revolver

led the

to save

them

from the wet, and cautiously piloting the way, which

was

full of boulders,

roots of trees,

deep miry holes, trunks, limbs, and

and other

obstacles.

Behind him came

the mahout and one of the elephants and the line of

porters, bravely struggling

mud

while

Tom and

I,

with their loads through the

leading the ponies, brought up

the rear, along with Hannibal and his big charge, both
of

them

in rather cross temper,

owing

to a difference of

opinion as to the rate of progress which

for

it

was proper

an elephant to make in the circumstances.

The

worthy old negro's ill-humour was not removed by the

unmerciful

chaff" to

which we subjected him, and a

little

incident occurred that threatened further to upset him.

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

new

resplendent butterfly of a

four or five inches across, and

all

HILLS.

33

species,

with wings

ablaze with glorious

shades of blue, purple, and crimson, issued from the

and

thicket,
doctor,
it

who

after

round the head of the

fluttering

could only vainly shake his revolver at

it,

passed on to one after another of the company, finally

concentrating

attention on Hannibal,

its

taking a special delight in parading

its

and apparently
beauties within

a foot or two of his nose.

"

Aha

our black friend, wagging his

said

"

head

savagely and showing his teeth like a cat that sees a

sparrow from behind a pane of

do what you

like,

nearah, will you

The
at that
face,

do you?

glass, "

you

You

Hey!

t'ink

jes'

you can

come a

little

?"

butterfly, responding to the sarcastic invitation,

moment danced a few

inches closer to Hannibal's

and by a dexterous sweep of

his

hand he held the

Instantly the negro's ill-humour,

prize in his fingers.

which was never of long continuance, was appeased, and

for the rest of the
elation he

day he could scarcely conceal the

He

felt.

got his share of the too

attentions of other tribes of insects

sand-flies,

and the

rest

mind them.

(690)

to

wing

or

but he seemed scarcely

There was not one of

was not glad enough

and dark tunnel

marked

mosquitoes, ants,

that stung us on the

dropped on us from the trees

to

us,

who
damp

however,

emerge again from

this

into the clear light of day, close beneath

THE JOUENEY INTO THE

34

the cascade which

we had heard

HILLS.

gradually sounding

louder in our ears.

We

were a forlorn company when at length we came

to a halt at the foot of the

falls.

Our hands and

faces

were torn with thorns and swollen with the stings and
bites of our insect tormentors,

rents here

and

and our clothes had gaping

there, besides being

soaked with water

and plastered with mud from the waist down.

bal, particularly, cut

contrast

to

a bedraggled

figure, in

Hanni-

melancholy

the spruce and dandified air he assumed

before his bright plumage

had been drawn through the

we were, hunger had the upper

and we set to work with a will in

Tired and wet as

mire.

hand of

fatigue,

helping our cook to get ready our meal

a mess of

rice,

with preserved meat sandwiches and some excellent crayfish,

or "fresh- water lobsters," as

we had
cup of
It

fished

we

called them, that

up from the stream, added

to a

smoking

tea.

was a wild scene that environed us

we

as

sat

around a great slab of rock, doing ample justice to our

fare.

Towering granite

cliffs

rose almost sheer above

us to a height of six or seven hundred

feet.

Piled-up

fragments of rock lay around their base and encumbered

the bed of the stream, and were overgrown with an
extraordinary variety of forest and water plants,

among

which beautiful ferns and long streaming mosses predominated.

On

the summit of the crags, also, broken and

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

HILLS.

35

splintered masses of stone were confusedly heaped,

and

some of them seemed to lean over in the act of plunging

We could make out

into the valley.

dwarf shrubs

cling-

ing to the clefts high up, and hiding behind the boulders,
plainly seeking shelter from the cold rude blasts that

blew on the plateau above.

Just before us the walls of

the gorge approached each other within a distance of

down a

thirty feet, and

and bounds, roaring and chafing over and

in flying leaps

under the rocks in a

In

pool below.

in time of flood, as

and

line of foam,

fill

we

up the

the space between the

could plainly see

rocks,

it

must

and thunder through the gap in a

"

What

we

are

"We

doctor.

We

plied our
further.

did

now,

sir

"

but

cliflTs;

by the markings

the whole channel

resistless torrent.

inquired

Tom

we

of the

am

but also the ponies,

if

we

us," re-

are to go

any

not disappointed about the elephants, as

not expect

Besides, another

up

"
?

must not only leave the elephants behind

chief, "

to do

fill

little

will not be able to get the elephants

these rocks, will

"

falling into a deep

present shrunken condition the

its

river did not nearly

of water high

steep incline rushed the stream

to

be able to bring them so

far.

day with the care of Ghenghiz weighing

on his mind would be the death of Hannibal," glancing

slyly at that worthy,

looked

much

relieved.

been kindling the

fire

who shook
"

his grizzled poll, but

While you hungry blades have

and boiling the

kettle, I

have been

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

36

clambering up the rocks at the

thoroughfare' that

climbing

trees,

you can

am

for horses,

There

fall.

and

is

no

'

scarcely for foot-

But we have had some experience

passengers.

find

way

HILLS.

and there

is

hoist yourself

in

a root there by which I

up

to the river-bed above.

not quite certain," said the doctor after a pause,

and speaking with great deliberation, "but I think I

make out

could

at the extreme end of the gorge,

within a couple of days' march, the great

which we are in

is

and

divide

'

of

search."

"

Then shouldn't we push on

"

Not

my

at once

"

broke

in.

quite so fast. Bob," said Dr. Roland, smiling at

eagerness.

"We

have to

settle first

not to be our turning-point.

We

can

whether this

still

or three days and be back at the bungalow

But there

appointed.

pushing on.

What

if

is

risk,

spare two

by the time

can see plainly, in

one of the thunderstorms that

occasionally break on these hills at this season were to

come down

We

might be imprisoned in the mountain-

gully above for a

week

or more.

It

might take that

time before the flood would subside sufficiently to

escape

by the

fall

and the

let

us

sides of the gorge, so far as I

could observe, are so steep that you might as well think

of scaling a church spire.
If

Then

there are the hillmen.

they discovered our movements, and chose to bar our

way,
"

it

would be more awkward even than the

But we have seen no natives

since

we

floods."

crossed the

THE JOURNEY INTO THE

frontier,"

we

objected,

"and

those

HILLS.

37

we met within

the

border were quite quiet and peaceable."

"That sudden disappearance

puzzles

is

the very thing that

and troubles me," replied our

"

gravely.

These wily rascals

we have

every step

may have

little

nat-houses

evil genii of the jungle

men seldom

we

and meat

offerings of fruit

Did you observe

passed on our
laid

down

way had

fresh

to propitiate the

and the mountains

The

hill-

take the trouble to do that unless some

raiding scheme or other mischief

we

been watching

taken, though they have never

allowed us to catch a glimpse of them.

that the

speaking

friend,

is

afoot.

Now

that

are so near the mountains, I think I will push on,

with Hannibal and two of the guides, and try to reach

the water-parting.
better

still,

But you,

boys,

must remain here

or

return with the elephants and ponies and the

rest of the party to the outlet of the stream, for

camping

You may look for us in about a week."

The reader may fancy how terribly disappointing a
prospect this was for us, and how we urged the doctor

and pasturage.

by every argument

At

length, after

in our

much

power

hesitation,

that the dangers were, after

that

we might be

safer

all,

to take us with him.

and bearing in mind

only conjectural, and

under his own eye than

alone with the native attendants, he consented that

left

we

should start with him next day to pursue the journey

up stream.

THE JOUKNEY INTO THE

38
" I

wish you had spent your time, Tom, in teaching

your pony to climb

legs

HILLS.

and begging

trees, instead of

standing on

for a biscuit," said the

wistfully at our clever

little

"

nags.

its

hind

doctor, looking

We

shall

have to

be the beasts of burden ourselves from this point.

advise

you

to put

and Hannibal

will

on as much clothes as you can

show you how

sacks to the best purpose.

marching order as
to

possible,

We

to

bear,

pack your knap-

must be

in as tight

but must have enough food

keep the keen mountain hunger at bay for several

days."

CHAPTER

III.

THE CLEFTS OF THE KOCK.

^^J^10NG

P^^
i^^j^l

before the sun had peeped over the walls

march

of the ravine our preparations for the

were complete.

In spite of the wetting of

the previous day,

we

felt quite fresh

for travel, thanks partly to the delicious plunge

and

enjoyed in the pool immediately on awakening.

eyes of the doctor and the

critical

"

The

darkey" had super-

intended every detail of toilet and packing.

ponies,

fit

we had

Elephants,

and attendants stood marshalled, ready

for depart-

when we had ascended the rocks at the

Picking our way cautiously over the boulders,

ure to the rear

waterfall.

wet and slippery with the spray from the

clinofino:

now

to a tuft of grass or fern,

overhanging branch, or knuckle of rock,

selves

up rather

stiffly

for

cascade,

and

now to a root,
we hoisted our-

we had donned more

clothes

than was as yet quite comfortable, and had each besides a

wallet and a

gun slung

to his shoulder

stood on the topmost ledge.

We

till

at length

we

raised a hearty cheer,

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

40

which was responded to from below

and then each party

stepped out briskly, our late companions towards the

down

rendezvous
heart of the

stream,

and we into the unknown

hills.

It is impossible to conceive a

more desolate and

terrific

now

turned.

scene than the one on which our eyes were

A great

chasm seemed to have been rent

the mountains, winding and zigzagging,

till

it

was

less

panding a

than a stone-throw

into the core of

now

across,

contracting

and then ex-

but with the sheer walls everywhere

little,

throwing deep black shadows half-way across the

It

seemed to be the gloomy portal to the retreat of the

Efreet

who guarded

the secret of these hills

Tom and

not strange in young explorers like

were introduced

it

was

myself,

who

and

for the first time into the scenery of

this wild land of precipices

or

gulf.

and abysses, that

for a second

two our hearts sank with an involuntary

awe and

Above the

terror.

cliffs

however, and far back behind the

feeling of

that hemmed
murky recesses

us

in,

of the

ravine, a high mountain-ridge could be plainly discerned,

running north-east and south-west, with the morning

sun gleaming on

shadows into
doubt that

its

it

its

snow-covered peaks, and throwing

deep notches and hollows.

was the "Iron Wall"

prolongation of the Patkoi Chain

more than

The

fifteen or

sight infused

twenty miles

new

We

had no

the impassable

and

it

seemed not

distant.

spirit into us,

and we tramped

THE CLEFTS OF THE KOCK.

on stoutly

of the stream

was

worn smooth with the

of stone,

met us

in spite of obstacles that

The bed

step.

41

filled

with huge blocks

water passing

friction of

over them, and piled one above another as

of the hills

if

the giants

had been amusing themselves by trying

Our progress was a

up the chasm.

fill

at every,

ing, leaping, sliding,

Sometimes we would

and wading.

way

be picking our

to

process of crawl-

cautiously along a narrow ledge at

a dizzy height above the stream; at others endeavouring

to follow its

banks by scrambling over the boulders, and

then again taking to the stream

itself,

which hurried

downhill in a continuous series of rapids and cataracts.

Great fissures seamed the sides of the

and

side valleys

of jungle

and

of

coarse wiry grass covered the

and at a few spots there were patches

We

forest.

thickets, as well as

game

peered anxiously into these

up the branch

or of possible enemies, but

life,

human

at intervals,

opened up, more dark and forbidding

than the main gorge.

less steep slopes,

clifis

or otherwise.

glens, in search of

saw

scarcely

any

Winged game had

appeared, and the only four-footed creatures

trace
dis-

we saw

were two or three Ovis Ammon, the wild mountain sheep,

splendid fellows with

prodigious horns, that bounded

up the nearly perpendicular

crags,

and disappeared over

the sky-line too far off for us to get a shot at them.

The only sport the ravine afforded was angling

and a

dish of a curious, snouted, whiting-like fish afforded us

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

42

We

an excellent mid-day meal.

ourselves with tropical fruits

could no longer regale

we had

for

left

behind us

the sago-palm and the rubber-tree, the banyan and the

and the

plantain, along with the tiger

valley beneath us, and the plants

were those of more temperate

trees not unlike our northern
Still

we

difficulties

buffalo, in the

we now

encountered

and

chiefly pine-

regions,

firs.

held onward and upward, and privations and

were made amends for by seeing the snowy

range before us grow gradually nearer and

we

halted

reduced

we

the day,

for

its

distance from us

calculated

by

clearer.

that

When

we had

manding a view up and down the

suitable camping-place for the night,
after duly setting a

at least one-half.

recess in the rocky wall, with a platform in front

satisfied

low

com-

ravine, offered a

and we turned

watch and kindling a huge

in,

fire,

on the whole with what we had done, and pre-

pared to enjoy a well-earned night's repose.

I think the fatigues of the

much

day must have been too

for me, or the cutting breeze that

the snows, and

vented

made me

me from

I could not

shiver within

dropping off to

compose myself to

sleep.

rest.

and one of the Assamese porters turn

passed the

first

for

my

blanket, pre-

At

all

events,

heard Dr. Roland

in, after

having

watch, and Hannibal and our other native

follower take their places.

blew down from

The doctor was

"

dead beat"

he had been geologizing as well as marching

all

day

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

and

43

two Assam men,

did not seem to notice that the

willing but superstitious fellows, lingered together for a

few moments and exchanged some hurried words.

Han

heard old

lecturing his companion, with the air of

superiority that he always assumed in addressing coloured

men

of other types than his own, on his ignorance

want
"

You remembah," he

said, "

nevah to speak b'hind the

you have

b'cause

a niggah like you ought

You grumble

sahib's back.

ovah big

to climb

stones,

other big stones on your back, do you, hey

know

that Doctah Sahib

natives
to

and

of manners.

"

make dem

Why, you

You

don't

name with the

when he goes back

the doctor's

all into

You

Poolongyan.

"

and carry

'fraid

rupees
of

the

'

are

nats,'

you

he could catch your biggest nat, and

fool,

cork him up in him small bottle" (this was evidently

a blundering allusion to the doctor's splendid collection

of gnats

and other

had made one

insects of the

same

eyes well skinned,

"

which he

class

You
and mind your own

of his specialities).

jes'

keep your

business, will

you?"

Much more

to

delivered himself

the same

of.

effect

the worthy negro

The Assam man made no

response,

and Han's own voice sounded drowsily, and at length

The

was

in-

past

my

half-closed eyes towards the entrance of the cave,

and

ceased.

creased

feverish,

uneasy sensation I

by a fancy that

saw a shadow

felt
flit

THE CLEFTS OF THE EOCK.

44

by hearing a pebble
I could lie quiet

two

or

rattle

no longer; and

that the hour was close at

the rocks outside.

hand when

morning watch.

to share the

down

besides, I

I got up,

upon the ledge where our guard was

was convinced

Tom and

I were

and stepped out

set.

The

fire

had

dwindled down until only two or three half -extinct

The moon had gone down, and the

brands remained.

had hardly begun

sunrise

indeed the

"

to

tinge the sky.

was

black hour " that precedes the dawn, and

my eyes could

only penetrate a few yards into the

darkness that seemed to surround the dying

wall.

It

murky

fire like

There was light enough, however, to see the

prostrate

figure

Hannibal, stretched

of

close

to

the

embers, and a prolonged snore gave further testimony to

the

way

in

which he was keeping watch.

The

had half suspected.

much

It

was

as I

toils of

the day had been too

and

for once his sense of

for the honest fellow,

duty had succumbed to exhaustion.

But where was

my

companion on guard

his

eye around in search of him, but in vain.

stepped aside to see

some

rock.

my

neck, and rattled against a

boulder within a few feet of me.

fired

my

instant I moved, an arrow whizzed

past, almost brushing

I felt paralyzed.

Then

he had ensconced himself behind

if

At the

I glanced

Then gathering

For a second or two

my

wits about me, I

my

hand,

whence the arrow had come.

In-

gun, which I had brought loaded in

in the direction from

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

46

stantly a howl of pain announced that I had done some-

thing more than check the hidden foe and rouse

The doctor and Tom Wilson rushed out

companions.

from the
self up,

my

grotto, rifle in

hand; and Hannibal picked him-

and began violently to rub

his eyes, evidently

completely at a loss to understand where he was.

few hurried words

In a

what had happened, and

I explained

emphatic point was given to them by two or three other

arrows that came hurtling about
to

withdraw into the cave

and

trampling out the remains of the

Here we lay with our

until daylight

in eagerly
startling

rifles

It

us.

this

we

was

clearly time

did, after hastily

fire.

cocked, anxiously waiting

would break, and spending the interval

comparing notes as to the meaning of the

event that had occurred, and discussing our

future plans.
trap prepared

It

was plain that we had

by a party

have been following our

fallen into a

of the wild hillmen,

trail

who may

for days, or perhaps

been lying in ambuscade in one of the thickets

passed on the previous day's march.

had

we had

The disappearance

of both our native porters puzzled us sorely.

we suspected complicity on their part with

but afterwards we came to the conclusion

At

first

our assailants;
that they had

been seized with panic, on perceiving the dangers and

difficulties

of

the enterprise, and had probably over-

heard some of the doctor's remarks about the

hood of the dreaded

hill-tribes

likeli-

being out upon a raid.

THE CLEFTS OF THE EOCK.

46

They had

seized the first chance of escaping

and we

trembled to think of the fate that had overtaken the

deserters,

and which in a few hours might be our own.

After a weary time of waiting, the objects outside began

slowly to loom out more plainly in the darkness, and by-

and-by the morning light shone into our place of

retreat.

The enemy had kept at a respectful distance, and contented

themselves with
into the cave

now and

to the entrance,
besiegers

again flinging an arrow or lance

from below.

We now

were gathered some distance

a narrow passage

down

by which

off in

score

of

two groups,

each, one party holding

we

alone

could retrace our

stream, while the design of the others seemed

to be to prevent our pushing further on.

an excited

yell

when they

They

As we were

could survey the foe at comparatively

wild, truculent-looking

raised

perceived us, and sent a

arrows in our direction.

sheltered behind the rocks, these did us no harm,

more

The

and reconnoitred the ground.

numbering about twenty men

steps

ventured cautiously

little

well

and we

risk.

crew surely never gathered

together for a deed of rapine or bloodshed.

They were

rather under the middle height, but with enormously

long

and powerful limbs.

Mongol type that more

hill

regions

Their faces were of the

or less prevails throughout these

but in the case of

more harsh and

<5ur

assailants all the

sinister features of the Tartar counte-

nance were exaggerated to positive hideousness.

Their

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

small,

bones,

eyes were

oblique

" villanous

low

"

set

47

underneath

forehead

and their flattened noses, high cheek

and wide mouths displaying broken rows of

yellow teeth, did not invite the confidence and sympathy

of the stranger.

Their skin? appeared to have once been

copper coloured, but abstinence from earliest childhood

from the use

of soap

a thick coating of

and water had plastered them with

smoke and

dirt.

covering they wore a rough garment

or

some other coarse material;

by caps

Over

this repulsive

woven

of yak's hair

their heads

were defended

of fur or bear-skin, or with great parasol-shaped

hats of wickerwork, adorned with yak's tails

and

their

For weapons they carried

great splay-feet were bare.

a bow and arrows and spears, and most of them had

lonsr-bladed knives stuck in their belts.

we made no movement, they began

Seeing that

to

shout to us in harsh, guttural tones, and indulged in an

insulting pantomime, obviously daring us to

and meet them.

One

rascal held aloft

a tin saucepan

one of Hannibal's most cherished possessions

had

pilfered

brandished
negro,

when
"

for

it

come forth

which he

from the neighbourhood of the

much

This was too

in triumph.

who was

bringing his

rifle

fire,

to bear

and

for the

on the

thief,

the doctor struck up the barrel.

Don't

fire

Tom and

one of you
I

were

till

I give the

word," he said,

also fingering our triggers.

think what a terrible thing

it

is

"

Just

to take the life of a

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

48

human

however degraded.

being,

we

exasperating them, until

way

of escape except

by

We

must beware of

are sure that there

is

no

fighting; and, remember, in

our present case every cartridge

is

worth to us a king's

ransom."

Again the trophy was flourished in the

air

and the

enemy, who had evidently no idea of the range of our

The

weapons, advanced a few paces nearer.

splendid shot, brought his

steady aim, and

had

nibal

rifle

doctor, a

to his shoulder, took a

The saucepan, from which Han-

fired.

time produced some of the greatest

in his

triumphs of the cooking

art,

dropped from the hands of

the astonished savage, a hole being driven clean through

and

the bottom of

it,

confusion, he

and

after a second or

companions

his

two

fled in

of comical

dismay.

At

the pass below, however, they rallied, ashamed of their

Afraid of venturing to close quarters, they

panic.

now

disposed themselves behind rocks and shrubs, so as to

command every yard

to

have adopted the

tactics of starving us into surrender.

was now time

It

ing

ourselves

desperate.

We

and seemed

of our path of retreat,

to decide

on a plan of extricat-

and the circumstances seemed indeed

waited, of course, for our chiefs direc-

tions.

"

There

is

just one

way open

a cheery, hopeful voice.

with so

many

"

for us, boys,"

We cannot

he

force that

yelling savages guarding

it

said, in

gateway

we

cannot

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

climb up these sheer walls of rock

cannot remain where

food with

"And

it

and

it is

plain

is

berry dear

cost, too,"

grumbled that personage,

"

How

to cook your dinnah when you go knock de

bottom out dat pan, sar

"

we

not obstructed;

at the cost of Hannibal's frying-pan."

glancing ruefully at the ruined cooking- vessel.

am

we

with only a couple of days'

are,

The path ahead

us.

have cleared

we

49

We'll better settle

how we

are to get

time to

with us

cartridges

and food

first,

then clothes

saucepans and luxuries of that kind to their

quick march
the gorge

to

no

is

we

fate,

leave

and

Somew^here between this and the top of

some spot where young,

shall surely find

up

active legs can scramble

back to the friends we have

especially

there

Get ready everything we must take along

lose.
:

any dinner

"But

cook," answered the doctor dryly.

when we have

hasten our steps.

Bob,

to the plateau above,

left in

flights of

my

lad,"

and

so

the valley behind,

poisoned arrows to

he added more gravely,

looking critically at one of the arrows, as

we resumed

our march up stream, "you have had a very narrow

escape.

slight prick

from

with a very short lease of

this

would have

left

you

life."

As we

proceeded, our persecutors left their intrenched

positions

and cautiously followed in our wake, taking

care to keep well out of range of our

rifles.

There was

another remarkable change in our surroundings, for the

(090)

THE CLEFTS OF THE EOCK.

50

granite rocks gave place to stupendous

cliffs

formation, and the scenery seemed to

grow more weird

and

The

fantastic every minute.

bed into deep ruts and

river

of limestone

had worn

basins, hollowing out for itself

yawning archways and caverns

in the rock, or leaving

strangely-carved blocks standing in mid-stream.

of the
tites

cliffs

was honeycombed with

hung from the

with a ghostly

roofs

effect.

its

The face

White

caves.

stalac-

and glimmered in the obscurity

Above towered the

similitude of

feudal castles, with ruined turrets and tottering walls,

decaying minsters with needle-pointed spires and flying

buttresses, columns, obelisks,
outline, all

It

and towers of every strange

standing sharply defined against the sky.

would scarcely have surprised us

backed manikins, like the

we had been

trolls,

reading of in

a train of hunch-

if

gnomes, and kobolda

German

fairy stories,

had

issued from one of these darkling caves, bending inider

the weight of the great sacks of gold and precious stones

that they carried on their shoulders.

It

was with a

kind of shudder that we fancied we saw movements in

the depths of the grottoes, as of
to

and

fro,^

shadowy things

flitting

doubtless some of the large vampire bats,

the capture of which had been one of the main objects

that had lured the doctor into the mountains.

But to-day we were

or

in

no mood either for geologizing

making notes on natural

with

all

the speed

we

history,

could muster.

and we pushed on

No

breach,

how-

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

hemmed us

opened up in the prison walls that

ever,

offering a portal to liberty

foothold on the

cliffs

and

safety.

61

in,

There was no

which even a goat could take

advantage of as a ladder of escape.

Instead, the crags

towered above us on either hand more threateningly and

steeply than before, and in front also vast precipices,

surmounted by seemingly unscalable heights, barred our

way

for

we had now arrived

we had come

mountain-chain

seemed to frown on our

also

The

skies

enterprise, for great clouds

were gathered overhead, and the

gorge was close and suffocating.
to perceive that our

the base of the

close, to

so far to see.

in the confined

air

Our pursuers seemed

hour had come, for they uttered a

shout of triumph as they crept nearer, skilfully taking

advantage of the enormous masses of rock that had

slipped

down

into the gorge

and obstructed our way,

but which their bare feet easily surmounted.

Suddenly we saw them

stop, glance at the sky,

and

hastily take shelter in the clefts of the rock near them.

At the same moment a deep shadow appeared

us,

to fall

on

and looking up, the heavens overhead seemed covered

with a black, sulphurous-looking

fold,

"

pall, rolled fold

and gradually being drawn down

Run

run, lads, for your lives

and seizing an arm apiece of

closer

within

upon

us.

"

said Dr. Roland,

Tom and

me, he hurried us

at the top of our speed to the

mouth

opened a friendly refuge close at hand.

of a cave

which

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

52

Hannibal followed on our heels

and hardly had we

ensconced ourselves within w^hen the skies appeared to

and a great blaze of white

open,

recesses,

exceeding

light of

vividness illuminated the gloomy gorge to

followed instantaneously by a

its

innermost

terrific

crash of

thunder, that seemed to echo and re-echo from every

cleft

and cavern in the mountains.

Flash followed

and peal succeeded peal with stunning

great hailstones, or rather blocks of
larger,

than a pigeon's egg, began to

and dancing

fantastically

madly round

in

down

among

the

ice,

flash,

and

rapidity,

as large, or

fall, first

hopping

rocks,

whirling

an eddying wind that came sweeping

the gullies, and then, as the gusts increased in

strength, tearing along in solid battalions, lashing wildly

the sides of the

the

of

shelter

cliflfs,

and battering us even in the

cave with

After the hail came sleet

the
;

hard jagged

particles.

and then rain descended in

great sheets, and continued for an hour and a half,

the

almost

incessant

crashing

amid

and rumbling of

the

thunder.

While

this

tremendous concert was proceeding,

we

looked on breathless and awe-stricken, hardly daring to

exchange a word with one another.

not have been easy to have

made

Indeed,

it

would

ourselves heard amidst

the pealing of the thunder, the howling of the wind, and

the roar of
before

many

waters

for the stream,

which a

was a mere brook, had become a powerful

little

torrent,

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

that chafed like a netted lion

the rocks, and was

every few yards by streams that tumbled

reinforced

down

among

53

the gullies in lines of foam, or cascades that pre-

cipitated themselves over the edge of the

cliffs.

Just as the storm seemed to be expending

last burst,

upon our
beneath

fury in

a new and more terrifying sound struck

ears.

us,

its

The

solid

mountain shook and trembled

and a loud and long-resounding crash seemed

to announce that the world

was

Even

falling in ruins.

the doctor's cheek blanched, I fancied, for an instant

and the thought that occurred to

that

not

we had experienced one

uncommon in Assam.

Almost immediately the

our minds was

all

of the shocks of earthquake

rain

ceased,

and the sun

appeared to be struggling through the clouds

was obscured by thick dust that

air

When
had

this

filled

but the

the valley.

had cleared away, we at once perceived what

An

happened.

extensive

landslip

had occurred

between us and the spot where we had seen our savage

foes seek shelter.

huge mass of the mountain had

toppled over into the gorge, completely blocking

it,

with

the exception of a narrow gap through which the pent-

up waters

of the stream

this obstacle there

from pursuit

if,

were rushing.

was none.

Passage over

At length we were

indeed, our pursuers

safe

had not been

buried under the falling mountain.

We

could not

aflford

to wait long

musing over the

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

54

singular

manner

which we had been released from

in

the more immediate danger.

midable encompassed

Other

So

ns.

perils

not

less for-

far as could be seen,

we

were shut up in the heart of a mountain, as in a kind

of well, surrounded

by

frightful precipices

on

and a hundred miles from the nearest outpost

tion.

Our

first care, of

point where the

course,

was

some
If

accessible.

we

than death from starvation

failed in this, nothing less

stared us in the face.

of civiliza-

to search for

would be found

cliffs

all sides,

The afternoon was already

ad-

vanced, and with our almost exhausted supplies no time

was to be

lost.

At

seemed as

first it

if

we were

to be

balked in every attempt to escape from our prison in

the clefts of the rock.

Many

the head of the gorge, but

We turned

precipices.

fissures

all

branched

off"

from

alike ended in terrific

back from the

last of

them, tired

out and almost despairing.

What have you got there, Hannibal ? " asked Tom

the negro, who had stooped and picked up an object

"

of

from the ground.

know

"Don't
" 'Pears to

"

Something to

eat, I hope."

I'm sure, Massa Tom," was the reply.

be a bit of hoop, but might once have been a

cutlass."

The doctor took the rusty

bal's
"

hands, and examined

This

is

it

piece of iron

from Hanni-

long and narrowly.

important, boys," he said.

other travellers have been here before us.

" It

means that

It is a knife-

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

blade of Burmese manufacture.
the Shans from the

with the

medicinal
of

yak's

mountains.

the

past this spot

It

and

if

life

ornaments and

also metal

road

that

plain

is

musk,

and other productions

hair,

barbarians can follow

for trade, I think Britons

a matter of

cross the mountains,

in exchange for furs,

hill-tribes,

plants,

have often heard that

Upper Irrawady

and barter these knives, and

cloth,

55

it

leads

merely

need not shrink from

and death.

it

in

Let us go back and look

again."

We

raised a hearty cheer at this good news.

Fortune

seemed resolved to smile on us in our extremity; for our

shout startled an antelope that had taken cover behind
a rock near at hand, and

up the

The

cliffs.

it

dashed in a slanting line

doctor's rifle

was

instantly at his

shoulder, but to our surprise he did not

fire,

himself with covering the animal's body as

contenting
it

bounded

along the precipitous face of the crags.

" Fire,

doctor

fire,

or

it

will be

with his accustomed headlons:

The

gone

" called

Tom

eacrerness.

doctor, however, took his time

report of the

gun awakened the echoes

but at

last the

of the hills,

the antelope, after a desperate effort to maintain

foothold, fell

rock,
" I

till it

its

from a great height, crashing from rock to

lay motionless at the bottom.

wished to watch the track

doctor, as

and

it

took," explained the

Hannibal shouldered the body and we turned

THE CLEFTS OF THE ROCK.

66

away.

"And now

I think I

have the clue that will

lead us out of this trap."

That night we supped cheerfully on roast haunch of

venison,

and

I think that, in spite of the lamented loss

of our cooking apparatus, the

whole party enjoyed a meal

so plentifully sauced with hunger

except myself.

CHAPTER

IV.

THE IRON WALL.

OT

only did

not relish supper, but I passed

another night of feverish restlessness, and in

^1

the morning I felt quite

that I was suffering from the

of

fever,

that

myself and

my

saw plainly

in

Dr.

cheerful tone, that he

for

havine: been the

deadly

peril.

last gasp, rather

to

my
We

in

was

fact

symptoms

wade

our

knew, however, that the

companions depended on our

getting out of our present position with

I

first

had doubtless caught

through the marshes below.

lives of

The

ill.

all

speed

and

Roland's face, in spite of

his

was keenly reproaching himself

means

of

brinofiner

us into such

resolved, therefore, to bear

up

to the

than add to his anxiety, or be a burden

comrades.

began the ascent of the mountain, following as

closely as possible the steps of the antelope

the doctor leading the way, and I bringing

where iny companions had

we had

shot,

up the

rear,

least chance of noticing

my

THE IRON WALL.

58

have a very confused and vague remem-

distress.

brance of the events of this notable day.

and

describe the features of the Iron Wall,

lead a party over

sequence, as

its

the nature of

This, however,

it.

is

cannot

I could not

of small con-

wonders, with the particulars regarding

its

rocks and

plant and animal

its

life,

will

be fully dealt with in Dr. Koland's great work of travel

I only know that, slowly and painfully,
we scrambled our way upwards to the region of cloud

and discovery.

We

and snow.

crawled like

flies alonor

the flank of the

mountain, treading narrow ledges where a single false

would have been

step

to rock

that

and

root,

destruction, clinging desperately

and stepping across yawning

made the head swim

their depths.

we

as

fissures

peered fearfully into

Grass and shrubs gave place to Alpine

mosses and lichens or naked rocks, and patches of snow

There was urgent need that

lay in the sheltered spots.

we

should cross the

slept out

"

divide" before nightfall; for

on the bare mountain-side

being frozen to death, or

previous day overtook us
like straws.

It

if

we

we

noticed

rock,

signs

it

to

move a yard

was by

precipices

aside
;

and

notches and steps cut in the

that proved that the

others before us.

ran the risk of

should be blown into space

and occasionally the trunk

crevasse

by

many

we

a storm like that of the

was impossible

from our path, girded in as

we

if

of a tree laid across a

way had been

It led to a

deep

traversed

" saddle,"

which

THE IRON WALL.

we now saw
feet, as

in the ridge above us,

we

near as

on either

69

some

himdred

fifteen

could judge, below the

snowy peaks

side.

For myself,

I despaired of ever reaching this goal of

My fingers trembled

our desires.

my knees knocked

and

together as I crept along the dizzy ledges, and a film

gathered before

my

companions.

I tried to set

my

eyes as I strove to keep pace with

An

ague

fit

them and keep

made

my

teeth chatter as

in a cry for help,

and the

wind from the frozen heights above pierced me

insensible state,

and struggled on mechanically with the

We

strength of delirium.
of the lower

had climbed high above the

and a majestic panorama of

hills,

mountain and valley was spread below

if

an

Latterly I think I must have fallen into a half-

icicle.

level

like

in a

up the

dream

were being

carried,

It

us.

by no

seemed as

will of

my own,

steep slope of a colossal wave, with a tempestuous

sea of white-crested billows heaving

and

falling

around

me, and unfathomable black gulfs opening up between.

At
on the

last

nature gave way, and I sank

track.

My comrades

down

helpless

moved on some paces before

they observed what had befallen me, and then in an

instant they were all about me.

urging them to leave

ward

for their

own

me

to

safety.

my

fate,

remember feebly
and to hurry

The doctor

and prepared a draught from the

little

felt

my

for-

pulse,

medicine-box

that he always carried about with him, speaking cheer-

THE IRON WALL.

60

fully

and

my

and

affectionately as I endeavoured to swallow

Tom

dear friend

grasped

brawny shoulders

serious burden

fortunately I

Tom would have

a light weight, and sturdy

much more

it

other hand, while

Then Hannibal hoisted me

tears gathered in his eyes.

tenderly upon his

my

and

was

been a

the up-hill march was

resumed as I lapsed into unconsciousness.

For a second or two

I "

came round," and opening

eyes found myself supported

by

my

my

companions, and

surrounded by deep snow, with icy peaks rising on

The sun was going down behind

either hand.

us,

and

threw gigantic shadows on the mists that were gathering

below

and the snowy ridges that

white-crested waves

a lake of purple.

now

had fancied were

looked like icebergs floating in

In front of

us,

however, there was an

opening in the clouds, and a glimpse was caught of a

deep

like

defile

that which

we had

left

behind

us,

opening in the distance into a larger valley, where there

was the

far-off

gleam of rushing waters.

The doctor was

finishing

the

word

me

to understand that

tory

"

Irrawady."

that

some remark, and

had

we had

my wits

caught

sufficiently

reached the

we had surmounted the great

about

crisis of vic-

barrier,

and

dis-

covered the hidden upper course of the great river of Bur-

mah.
"

waved

Hurrah

firm,

!"

my

hand, and uttered a feeble " Hurrah."

echoed

Tom

and then the whole

"

in a voice that struggled to be

expedition

"

cheered in chorus.

OHAPTEE

V.

UPS AND DOWNS.

HEN

came again

in a cave,

to

my

lowers at the

we

falls,

fir

skins of deer and

For a moment or two I imagined

that I had never left the grotto where

the night after

was lying

on a comfortable couch of

branches, covered with

bear.

senses I

we had

slept

had parted from the bulk of our

and that

all

on

fol-

that had happened since

the desertion of our guides, the attack and pursuit of the

savages, the thunderstorm,

the mountain

and the perilous journey over

was a nightmare dream.

The

cliffs

that I

caught glimpses of through the entrance of the cave had

the same fantastic shapes that had become familiar to us

on the other
spires

and

side of the Iron Wall,

pinnacles,

flanked

and rose into slender

with turrets and over-

hanging eaves that seemed to put the laws of gravity at

defiance.

noted

But

this,

as I propped myself

upon

my

elbow and

perceived that there was an important

change from the scenes I had

left.

The

valley

was

UPS AND DOWNS.

62

wider,

its

walls were higher, and the whole features of the

landscape were on a grander

warmer

climate, too,

That we were in a

scale.

was evident from the

half -tropical

plants that draped the entrance to the cave,

to the

nooks and crannies of the rocks;

and clung

while above,

great pine forests began, and stretched almost to the

summit of the

hills.

I tried to sit up, in order to get

a better view, but was glad to

fall

back again upon

the fur pillows, and bear with what patience I could the
affliction of

waiting for an explanation.

had not long

In a few minutes the honest

to wait.

mouth

black face of Hannibal appeared at the

He

cave.

my

stepped in upon tiptoe

of the

but when he saw

eyes wide open and staring inquiringly at him, he

gave a

and half

start, half of fright

of joy, as if

he were

about to jump out of his skin, and hurried up to me.

"

Oh, golly, Massa Bob

while two
as

if

biff

!"

tears rolled

he

said,

down

seizing

my

hand,

the sides of his nose,

racing each other to reach the tip

"

you have got

frewit?"
"

Through what, Han

still

somewhat confused.

below the mountain

Before

and were,

Han

"

"

I replied, for

my

Have we come

ideas were

right through

could reply the doctor and

Tom

entered,

of course, not less overjoyed to see that the

fever had left me.

From

the three I gradually got

explanations of what had happened since I lost con-

UPS AND DOWNS.

To

sciousness on the mountain-top.

63

my surprise

I heard

that a whole fortnight had elapsed since then, during

my

which time

companions more than once feared that

they would lose me.

The descent

of the mountain, they

assured me, had been comparatively easy.

ran a long

way down

into the valley,

and taking advan-

tage of the hard-pressed snow that lay upon

had constructed a kind

glacier

they

it,

of sleigh, with a brake contriv-

ance to regulate the speed, such as the doctor had seen

Canada and Russia, and

in operation in
easily

down

slid rapidly

was a dangerous

and

The passage

to the region of pine forests.

any moment a crevasse might

one, for

have opened and swallowed us

but there was no other

way of descent, and we arrived safely at the bottom.

From thence my comrades had carried me by easy stages
to the spot where I now lay, within hearing of the
They made

rushing flood of the Irrawady.

toils

that

had caused

breaking down

but I

for thankfulness I

had

them by

light of the

inopportunely

so

knew what unspeakable

to

them

cause

for so bravely sticking

me

my

by me, and

so tenderly nursing

weakness.

Afterwards I had chances of paying a small

part of

my

debt of gratitude

ended we had

all

in

for before

had our share of

fever,

delirium and

our journey

and had each

our turns of being nurse and patient.

my fever fit, and while I

my comrades were not idle.

During
strength,

was recovering

The doctor was

UPS AND DOWNS.

64

out on the

every day, accompanied either by

hills

Tom

or Hannibal, surveying the ground, hunting, or collecting

information

scientific

" at

home," as

we

while one of the party was left

learned to call our cave, to attend to

Fortunately game was not

the sick and to the cooking.

and many a fragrant stew Hannibal prepared,

scarce,

by the

aid of our last preserved-meat tin, with the

pheasants, wild duck, quail, and deer that

daily bag

made up the

while the river yielded a welcome change of

when we were lucky enough

fare, especially

to

hook the

lordly mahseer, a fish as large and as fine-flavoured

and other garnishing were not wanting

doctor's botanical

for here the

knowledge came very usefully to our

and we soon learned

grew
laid

at

Pot vegetables, edible mushrooms, salads,

as the salmon.

aid

such was the opinion of one hungry convalescent

least

to like the wild

plentifully on the higher groimd.

under contribution the

rhubarb which

For dessert we

fine walnut, chestnut, apricot,

peach, and cherry trees that covered the slopes of the

gorges, as well as the brambles, wild gooseberries, strawberries,

and rasps that throve in the covers below

that altogether
to be

pitied,

we

in

so

were, in respect to food, not greatly

spite

of the doses of

indigenous drugs which the doctor

tete

and other

made us swallow

daily as a precaution against fever.

We
valley,

could not, however, live for ever in this secluded

and our main subject

of anxiety

was our future

UPS AND DOWNS.

route.

there

careful survey of the

was no escape by the

stream.

About

narrowed to

two

little

66

ground had shown that

up

river, either

above us

miles

the

or

down

Irrawady

more than a dozen yards, and tore

with a sound like thunder down a

of cataracts,

series

between sheer walls of rocks rising to a height of many

hundreds of

feet.

yards below

us

scarcely so steep

At a

stream

the

and narrow

tier

till

another

entered

partly clothed the face of the

few hundred

of a

distance

for fine larch

cliffs,

they seemed dwindled to shrubs

impassable either by land or water.

side

valley,

off,

fir

tier

but

trees

above

equally

Nearly opposite

us was a reach of comparatively calm water

great distance

and

and rose

gorge,

and at no

on the other bank, the entrance to a

similar

one

the

to

we had

descended,

promised us the only loophole of escape.

Plenty of logs

and brushwood was scattered along the

shore, left there

by the summer

floods,

which we noticed marked a

rise

of forty or fifty feet in the river-level in the confined

channels above and below.

easy to construct a raft

had made me

fine

of this material

and as another

feel strong

we embarked one
and

Out

was

fortnight's rest

enough to resume the march,

morning on

after half-an-hour's

it

hard

toil,

this

cumbrous

craft

and several narrow

escapes from going to pieces on the

rocks, or

being

swept down by the current and eddies, we managed to

reach safely the opposite bank.
(690)

UPS AND DOWNS.

66

we

Landing, and shouldering our knapsacks, which

had taken care

several

days'

to

uninhabited country,

we

down

it

stream, where

among the

with what was needful for

store

march through a

allowed our raft to drift

was soon

" It is six weeks, as

left

and whirling

tossing

little

speech.

boys," he said, " since

you know,

our friends at Poolongyan.

turn there a fortnight ago

We

were due to

but instead,

and more troubled

re-

we have been

and further away,

drifting, like that raft there, further

into wilder

away

rapids.

Then the doctor made us a

we

and probably

sterile

scenes,

with no possibility

by the way we have come. We must now

make up our minds about what we are to do and I say
that we must turn our backs upon India and make
China our aim. We have made one great discovery
of return

though chance, rather than design, has led us to

Others as wonderful

ambition to

make

have to climb these

lie

ahead

hills

and

and

it

will be a noble

In the

ours.

th'fem

it.

first

hope that we

reach the valley of the Salwen river, where

we

place,

shall shortly

we

shall

be

able to purchase mules at some of the tribal villages or

at a Buddhist monastery

up

into

Thibet,

for,

you know, we are going

and there the

priests are the

kings.

You must

be prepared to meet dangers and hardships

more than

to, if I

would ever have dreamed

had known where our

trip

of exposing

would have led

you
us.

UPS AND DOWNS.

We

shall probably

precipices
see

and

67

have to face wild beasts and robbers,

and hunger

torrents, cold

but I do not

why, with stout hearts and limbs, and

and

consciences,

in a

lELst

and with weapons to

extremity to defend our

come through them

all.

clear heads

our larder, and

fill

we

lives,

should not

We choose to consider ourselves

as explorers, not as fugitives,

and cheery endeavour

will

be our watchword."
"

Be not
Be a

like

dumb, driven

hero in the

strife,'

cattle,

"

chimed in Tom, swinging a tough oak cudgel he had cut

to assist his steps.
fellow's beautiful "

So

was

it

words of Long-

to the

Psalm of Life

that

"

toilsome ascent of the Thibetan mountains

if

we began
;

and

you could have watched us as we stepped

would have

said that there

was some

the

I think

out,

you

of its fire in our

eyes and our hearts.

It

was not long before we had

to

make

large

on our stock both of courage and of patience.

might weary

my

demands
I fear it

readers to have a daily record of our

arduous journey among the bare and savage mountains

through which our route

now

can assure them that in actual fact

wearisome than

it

could possibly be

They may get some small

that had to be undergone,

if

many days. I
was much more

led us for
it

made

in description.

idea of the mere fatigue

they can find a staircase six

thousand feet high or more, and climb to the top of

it

68

UPS AND DOWNS.

every morning and

down again every

this

would not take account

The

of the way.

But even

night.

of the terrors

and the

perils

we had

slippery ledges along which

to

pick our steps, and where a crumbling fragment of the

down

rock disturbed by the foot would bound

dreds of feet into the gloomy ravine,

boom

lost in the

ridges,

after

all

piercing

rest, so

hun-

snowy

our toilsome climbing,

was the

we sought

the air in which

Then we had

spent breath.

for

distant splash

of rushing waters, brought us to

on which,

dared not

its

cold,

and so

we

rarefied

in vain to fetch back our

to scramble

down

steep

slopes, torn into

deep ruts and covered with splinters of

slaty rock, as

some huge harrows had been dragged

athwart the

if

hills,

until

we found

ourselves in the

gloomy

depths of a ravine, where only a thin slip of blue sky

was

to be seen overhead.

At mid-day our

faces

would

be cracked and blistered by the frosty winds that blew

on the mountains

and ere

nightfall the close, sultry air

With all our

make no progress. The gorge
warmth and shelter, we would

of the confined valleys almost stifled us.

exertions

we seemed

to

where, for the sake of

halt for

we had

the evening was an exact model of the one

left in the

precipitous

morning.

When

the

new

barrier of

mountain had been painfully climbed, the

top disclosed more heights, snowy, bare, or pine-covered,

rising in front of us.

It

must not be thought, however, that there was no

UPS AND DOWNS.

69

Often the route

beauty or grace in these savage scenes.

and hollows, where, in spots

carried us over grassy hills

sheltered from the powerful sun, the sward

sown with

daisies, buttercups,

and

was thickly

less familiar flowers,

whose names and properties the doctor took care to explain to us.

We

were sure to meet with slopes covered

with rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and other plants

with glossy green leaves and bright blossoms, and to
pass through

of

forests

tall

cedars,

firs,

and

larches,

before coming to the cold, bare heights above.

But gradually,

we

as

advanced, the features of the

scenery grew more harsh and abrupt

of the mountains pushed

the gaunt bones

themselves further through

their turfy covering, until

only thin patches of green

Game,

checkered the sterile rocks.

down

daily " bag " dwindled

until

it

no longer yielded

us a satisfying meal at the close of the march.

began to vex

us.

We

The

too, failed us.

Hunger

were constantly coming upon signs

of the wandering tribes of savages that haunt these

hills,

in the shape of embers of camp-fires and remains of

temporary huts.

The track we were following was

evidently often used

parties
first

by them, and some

had passed over

we had

to

wish that

any

sort,

only a

little

time before.

At

congratulated ourselves at not falling in

with such dangerous

of

it

of their hunting

wayfarers

we would
were

it

light

man

but

upon a
or

beast.

we now began
living creature

Were

it

the

UPS AND DOWNS.

70
latter,

might serve us for a meal

it

we might be

served in our turn

if

the former,

but any risk seemed

from cold and

better than the certainty of starvation

hunger.

On

the fifth evening after

we had

crossed the Irra-

wady, we halted for the night in a small grove of forest

trees.

In truth, so

"

and we were glad

to take advantage of the shelter the

To add

trees afforded.

we that we could
many yards further,

dead beat " were

not have dragged our tired limbs

to our misery, our last scrap of

food had been eaten, and to-night, for the

must go supperless
"

Hallo

the trees, "

" said
if

"

all

we

to bed.

this isn't a holly

the rest

time,

Tom, stretching himself below one of

Christmas-time at home

of

and

first

Doesn't

it

remind one

roast-beef, plum-pudding,

Please don't speak of roast-beef and plum-puddin',

Massa Tom," said poor Hannibal, the cook, pleadingly.

" It hurts
"

And

my

feelin's."

please don't speak of hollies, Master

you should say

"

"

Why,

Look

Tom, when

oaks," put in the doctor.

this is

at these

a holly,
leaves

is

it

not, sir

and the

"

Tom

prickles,"

hastily withdrawing his hand, for he

rejoined.

he added,

had allowed one

of

the sharp spines to run into his finger.

"

But look

at the height,

and the bark, and more par-

ticularly the acorns," retorted Dr. Roland.

" It is the

UPS AND DOWNS.

71

holly-leaved oak of Thibet, Tom, and wiser

you have been deceived by

men than

it."

" It

Let us camp under one of them," I suggested.

"

will be a double reminder of

"

Both dearer

So we

England and good

for their absence,"

cheer."

murmured Tom.
bushy oak

selected one of these strange,

trees,

that promised to give us effectual shelter, and soon were

seated around a crackling

fire of

dry

fir

branches.

" Is there nothing left in the pantry at

asked the doctor

make a brew
"

No,

of

"

all,

Hannibal ?

not even twice-used tea leaves, to

sar," replied

Han

sadly, at the

same time produc-

ing from his pockets and laying before the embers some

down from

ripe

chestnuts that he had knocked

trees

with stones while we had been discussing the holly

the

versus oak question.

There was
the

loving

over

the

little

opportunity to-night for rehewing

squabble

division

of

that

we had every meal-hour

the food, in

which each man-

oeuvred to get the largest shares for his neighbours.

am

afraid Hannibal told terrible fibs about the quan-

tities

he consumed while cooking, in order to excuse his

small appetite

when

his

dishes were

doctor was deaf to the arguments of

The

myself,

being a big full-grown man, he ought to have

that

double the share of us lads.

time

produced.

Tom and

the

members

It

of the party

was the same at bedwere continually quar-

UPS AND DOWNS.

72

for

relling

most uncomfortable

the

heaping

or

post,

who were " caught napping." Then,

on the march, I hardly knew whether to cry for vexation or for gratitude at the way my companions persisted in treating me as still an invalid, who ought to be
relieved of hard work as much as possible.
It is incredclothes about those

ible

by which that

the dodges

rascal

Tom

generally

the most frank, straightforward fellow breathing

try to get possession of
it

my

gun, and insist on carrying

As was only our

for me.

would

and throughout the journey

duty, every one tried

to keep

now

up as contented,

manly, and .even "jolly" a demeanour as he could, for

the sake of his comrades

but each must have

the situation was becoming desperate.

felt that

So we cheered

the appearance of the handful of chestnuts, though, for

myself, I felt so

hungry that I could have

sat

down

asked

prepared to do justice to a leg of elephant.

"

What

will

happen to us to-morrow,

some of us of the

"I would not

sir

"

doctor.
like to prophesy," he replied,

"but

we must be near the crisis of our troubles.

distance we have marched, we must be quite

think that

From

the

close to the basin of the Salwen.

we have found no
hollow.
in

savages.

we

first

time,

gorge between the ranges, only a

I shouldn't wonder

front of us,

For the

if,

when we

crest the hill

should see both the river and the

They have apparently hunted

all

the

game

UPS AND DOWNS.

from

this side of the watershed,

and have followed to

Or, perhaps, they have been

the banks of the Salwen.

northward on a

73

and are now seeking

raid,

from

shelter

the Thibetan troops in their remotest gorges."

From Thibet and

its

gradually turned, as
little

snows and savages our discourse

was always sure

it

claimed as our country; and

friends at home^

we

to do, to the

we

island in the northern seas which

so proudly

talked long of our

and how small idea they could have of

our strange surroundings.

the keen frosty air

The night had

made us

shiver

and

fallen,

for our camping-

ground was higher than any we had yet reached, and

our clothes, ill-suited in any case for such an arctic
climate,

up

were torn by thorns and rocks.

close to the

smoke curled
above

fire,

in

and heaped on more

clouds

great

So we crept
fuel,

till

the

through the branches

us.

All at once
of the

we were astounded by

a violent shaking

boughs overhead and a monstrous black appari-

tion gradually descending almost into our midst.

First

appeared a shapeless mass, covered with long shaggy

black hair, hanging from a lower limb of the tree

and

then shoulders and fore paws, and lastly a snouted head

emerged into

sight, as

with angry gruntings the creature

leisurely descended the trunk.

that

it

So surprised were we

was a few seconds before we could

we were

about to be

"

interviewed

"

realize that

by a mountain

UPS AND DOWNS.

74

who had probably climbed

bear,

acorns,

and

the tree to feast on the

and had remained hidden in the thick

we had

failing light, until

Our guns were

perch.

"

foliage

smoked " him

off his

and the

piled behind the tree,

doctor had barely time to slip round and seize his

rifle,

He

seemed in a

shockingly bad humour, for he growled

angrily and

when

his

champed

bearship was

among

us.

his great jaws together, as,

still

half -blinded with

the smoke, he blundered forward into the

the lighted brands in

all directions,

admit, putting us ignominiously to

the doctor had got his

gun

fire,

scattering

and, I hra bound to

By

flight.

ready,

and

this time

fired

but a

branch catching his sleeve, the bullet only grazed Bruin's

made again towards

nose from

and prudence, he

the tree, but a smart blow over the

and

after a struggle

It did not, however, suit

we

between wrath

shuffled off into the darkness.

hungry

possible supper disappear in this

started in

search.

travellers to see

manner;

own

that

my heart jumped

round the trunk of a

face,

to

my mouth

tree, I felt

so,

taking

It is not altogether

pleasant to hunt for an angry bear in a dark

I

and

turned

Hannibal with a burning fagot made him

change his mind

our guns,

He

him the more.

cheek, and enraged

wood

and

when, coming

a hot breath in

my

and saw a shadowy shape, that seemed of gigantic

dimensions, within

yard or two of me.

For the

second time that night, I fled with the bear close at

my

UPS AND DOWNS.

heels

shot

75

but luckily the doctor was close at hand, and a

through

the

brain

bowled over

my

slouching

pursuer.

By-and-by we were feasting joyously on

bear-steaks

and

am

in a position to say that for

desperately hungry men, and

when

there

better to be had, they are not to be despised.

is

nothing

CHAPTER

VI.

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

EXT

morning we breakfasted on Bruin, and

resumed the march.

Bearing in mind the

likelihood of the savages being near at hand,

we thought
so,

it

instead of

carried

proper

to

following

circumspection

track that would have

us directly over the ridge in front,

ceeded southward some

ran parallel to
top,

move with
the

it,

distance

down

we

pro-

the valley that

and then climbed cautiously to the

and peered over, under the shelter of a great rock.

What we saw

entirely satisfied us of the correctness of

the doctor's views as to our whereabouts, and of the

wisdom

of the precautions

ourselves.

rated

we had taken

not to expose

Before us were short ranges of

by narrow

general direction

valleys,

and

all

hills,

sepa-

running in the same

north and south

as those

we had

much lower than that on which

we could make out beyond them what

already crossed, but so

we

stood, that

appeared to be a long deep furrow ploughed through

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

This could hardly be other than the

the mountains.

On

long-looked-f or gorge o the Salwen river.

side

were more

chiefly attracted our notice

that lay directly at our

theatre

was hollowed

it

off

A kind
hill,

was the scene

of natural amphi-

and completely enclosed

The only

from the range.

we had pursued the direct

and a narrow rocky gorge below, by which a
if

The rocks where

small stream escaped to the Salwen.

we

peaks.

its

were a pass at the upper end, that we

should have traversed

route,

feet.

in the

by two spurs thrown

openings from

the other

lines of hills, rising step behind step to

a snowy range, with the sun glistening on

But what

77

stood descended almost perpendicularly, and

you could

fancy that you could drop a stone upon a grassy

flat

extending on each bank of the rivulet below, though

must have been almost a quarter

this piece of turf

We
The

a singular-looking group was gathered.

almost fancied that

who had hunted

we

recognized our acquaintances

us so persistently a few weeks ago.

features, the gestures, the costume,

so far as

we

could

make them

and the weapons

out from our lofty

station

men

but these people seemed to have come

generally resembled those of the

contact with civilized

ways than even

the western side of the Iron Wall.

clad in the fells of wild beasts,

what appeared

On

away.

of a mile

it

Assam

hill-

less into

their brethren

Some

and wore

of

on

them were

for

ornament

to be strings of coral beads round their

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

78

and large earrings dangling on

necks,

their shoulders

but others had no covering from the cold beyond a

We

waistcloth and their long black hair.

make

could

fancied

we

out tattoo-marks on their limbs and chests.

Groups of sheep, goats, and small, shaggy-coated horses

and mules were pasturing on the

grass,

and the deep

baying of several huge yellow dogs came up to

But the most curious-looking

of

immense hairy

beasts, like

were a score or so

objects

enormous

among

down-looking heads,
bisons
laps

a long

fell

and humps

muzzles,

of hair descended

and flanks almost

to the

from

told

like

dew-

their

ground, and their

tails

little

were huge bunches of white or brown

reflection, of course,

cattle,

They had

the other animals.

short

with

goats, yet

something about them reminding one of domestic

that quietly fed

us.

Tom and me

hair.

that this must

be the famous yak, the domestic ox of Thibet

Hannibal was sorely puzzled, and one could

from

see,

his nervous glances in their direction, that rather

face one of these mysterious-looking creatures, he

but

than

would

encounter a dozen of savages.

Smoke

curled

up from the

were going on for a

tones

what

steps

we

feast as

and preparations

valley,

we

stood discussing in low

should take.

One

of the

yaks was

led out into an open space, and, apparently at a given

signal,

one of the

men

sprang upon

it

with the bound of

a panther, and plunged a long knife into

its

throat.

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

79

Instantly the whole savage crew flung themselves on

the struggling beast, and cut and slashed and hacked

off great pieces of flesh

sight

was not one

feeling

it

with sickening

to inspire us

but

necessary to be doing something, and fearing

we would be caught sight of by

we began to move towards the pass,
that

brow

ourselves concealed behind the

had not gone

ment

The

ferocity.

with confidence

in the

when we

far

camp

the group below,

carefully keeping
of the

We

hill.

noticed an unusual move-

of the savages.

They seemed

have

to

suspended their meal, and to be hastily preparing for

flight.

Looking back into the valley we had

once saw the cause of the commotion.

emerged from the

shallow stream

hills,

at

we had waded on

the previous night.

scouts posted on the pass,

given them notice of the approach of danger.

The new-comers drew

to imagine a

were on

we

and was already crossing the

The hillmen had evidently

who had

left,

cavalcade had

foot,

nearer,

and

it

would be

Some

more motley group.

difficult

of the party

but the majority were mounted on horses

or on yaks, while

brought up the

a train of pack-mules and donkeys

rear.

The

objects

the

of

company

seemed to be partly military and partly trading

for

while most of them carried long spears, and here and

there the stock of an old flintlock

showed

were attired

like peaceable merchants.

same variety

in features

itself,

others

There was the

and dress as in martial equip-

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

80

ment.

Bold, harsh, Tartar traits

and rough sheep-skin

garments predominated, but there were several members

of the party

whose regular

features, full, flowing beards,

and ample robes and turbans

races of

We

recalled the

Mohammedan

Western Asia.

had not long time

deliberation,

for

and Dr.

Roland at once decided that we should show ourselves.

The appearance

men
suddenly

of four

one intensely black

three of

them white and

starting

up from among

the rocks, caused unbounded surprise and not a

Seeing, however,

consternation.

how

little

small our party

was, the strangers quickly recovered from their panic,

and several
at once

were levelled at

barrels

made

signs of amity,

us.

The doctor

and shouted something

who evidently
understood him, for after a short parley we were signalled to approach.
Our new acquaintances, we found,
were a party of horse who had been sent out to punish
in Chinese to the leader of the band,

a raid which the Lu-tzes, a notorious tribe of robbers,

had made

into Thibetan territory, and, if possible, to

recover -the plunder.

Along with them were several

traders from Kashgar, who,

we

learned,

had

across the breadth of Thibet with their wares,

seized this chance of getting

unsettled coimtry between

of Tali-fu, to

an

travelled

and had

escort across the wild,

them and the Chinese mart

which they were bound.

The captain

of

the

Thibetans was a

tall,

stalwart

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

fellow,

with a

black eye, and

fierce

who was

movements,

81

restless,

energetic

only distinguished from his

fol-

lowers by the greater profusion of coral and turquoise

ornaments about him, and by the jade-hilted sword stuck

He seemed

in his belt.

do with us

have an

greatly puzzled to

for the lamas

inveterate objection to strangers, and especi-

doctor, however, rightly

The

judged of the kind of arguments

must have used

that the Kashgaree merchants

come

this prejudice

leader, in

the

to

the priestly rulers of Thibet

Englishmen, entering their sacred country.

ally

of

know what

which we

Indian

to over-

and after a short chat with the

some

distinctly heard the clink of

rupees

which pass freely current in

we were allowed to join the band.

Our new friends were astonished when they heard

Thibet,

whom

from us that the marauders of

they were in

pursuit were so close at hand, and hastened forward

with

all

speed to overtake them

but when

sight of the green basin in the mountain,

minutes before

we had

was quite empty.

it

Savages, yaks, mules, horses, sheep,

if

rubbed

one of those belated travellers

pageant until the whole of the

the

my

" Clanalpine's warriors "

hill

had opened and

eyes,

and

felt

like

who have watched a fairy

little

pany have vanished at cockcrow; or

(690)

in

where a few

seen so animated a sight,

and dogs had disappeared, as

swallowed them up.

we came

green-jerkined com-

like Fitz- James

when

sank from sight at the beck of

Q

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

82

Our Thibetan guard probably did not

Roderick Dhu.

trouble their minds with such fancies

set spurs to their horses,

glen, over rock

and

for

they instantly

and went clattering down the

hillock, at a great rate, leaving us

foot-passengers far behind.

By-and-by from the gorge below came sounds of

battle

hills,

hoarse shouts and words of command, the deep

shots that echoed and echoed again

among the

lowing of yaks, the neighing of horses, and the barking of

dogs.

When we

over.

The robbers had managed

reached the spot the fight was already

to escape with part of

their prey into their inaccessible retreats in the

tains,

moun-

but the greater portion of the booty had been

recaptured.

men was

group of dismounted

gathered

about a form lying prostrate on a ledge of rock.

was Tzang, the leader

be

in the fray, he

first

of the troop.

It

Eager, as usual, to

had spurred on in

front,

and had

been struck on the chest with a poisoned arrow by one

Dr. Roland drew near,

of the retreating freebooters.

and

so skilfully did he dress

and cauterize the wound,

that after an hour or two's rest the patient

was able to

resume his seat in the saddle.

During

this

by doing justice
roast
tea."

was

yak
The

beef,

halt

we made amends

for our long fast

to the strange fare spread before us,

a huge bowl of tsamha, and

last dish

caused us a

wry

"

buttered

face or two, for

it

against all our prejudices to see boiling tea beaten

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

up

83

and

in a churn, with rancid butter instead of cream,

The tsamba

salt in place of sugar.

is

oat or barley meal

porridge with great lumps of butter in

it

and we soon

was our main

learned to relish this strong dish, which

When

of diet during our stay in Thibet.

article

the

march was continued we were mounted on hardy mules,

selected

booters

from the herd recovered from the Lu-tze

and what was

we were

portance,

free-

to us of nearly as

much im-

warm

sheep-skin

clad in the rude but

garments in which the natives can face the rigorous cold

of this high region.

Nothing
evening,

had

we

until,

over some dangerous

and abysses are

as

bits

familiar

of road

to

our

to us

as

if

when

the

and

its

arms,

shelter after so long

The banks

at this

to the level of the stream with a slope

that seemed gentle

to,

left

welcome sight

sojourn amid inhospitable rocks.

accustomed

we

It was, nevertheless, a

chose

the deep, green river- valley opened

down

but

footing with

inviting us to rest

point sank

We

their

mules,

unerring instinct.

who

the

things in this

country as hedgerows are in England, and

matter

in

reached the banks of the Salwen river.

to pass

precipices

unusual interest occurred

of

after

what we had

lately

and they were covered with

been

fine trees,

the vivid greenness of whose leaves was in delicious

contrast to the black

cliffs

around.

Below, a beautiful

sward, scattered over with clumps of wood, spread on

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

84

each side of a smooth current flowing between rockyislets.

Everything spoke of smiling peace and kindly

warmth, and a thin yellowish vapour that floated over

the water gave a softer charm to the scene.

To our

surprise, instead of descending to the

we

of the valley,

made

preparations were
"

What do

for camping.

mean by staying up
when we might be so snug down in

these stupid fellows

here in the cold,

that delightful valley ?" asked downright

doctor.

" I

for a king,

buttered porridge
"

of the

and there must be

trout lurking in these deep pools, which

fit

Tom

and peaches hanging in

see plainly apples

the trees, waiting to be plucked

into a stew

bottom

halted on the bleak mountain-side, and

and beat

Han

could

make

their tea-gruel

and

all to sticks."

Content yourself with porridge for to-night, Tom,

"

You would have

and be thankful," replied our

chief.

been very glad of

when you were looking

it last

night,

on.

with such hungry looks while the bear-steaks were getting

brown.

would not advise you

that paradise; and

quite well

to pluck the apples in

you may be sure that our guides know

what they are

That

about.

deceitful, smiling

valley of the Salwen has been of evil omen, since long

before Marco Polo wrote that

for certain'

"How

is

who attempted
that, sir?"

'

any stranger would

to cross

asked

1,

die

it."

while Hannibal looked

from the doctor to the river and back in dumb horror.

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

"

Malaria

was the
over

it

name of the demon that haunts it,"

You can see the sickly mist hanging
If you went down there, and waited
now.
the

is

"

reply.

just

long enough to cast a

Come away, boys

fish

you would be more

line,

away with you

bring

to

85

certain

fever and ague than trout.

Both

there will be no fry to-night.

and frying-pan are beyond your reach, and here

is

smoking dish of tsamba coming."

"

And

does nobody live on the river

"

we

asked, for

the mysterious stream excited our curiosity.

" I

believe that

some

"

valley," said Dr. Roland.

fearful
their

haste,

and snatch

They

fling in the seed

have also gone down the

stream, in search of the yellow metal.

the sands of

all

these rivers, and

on the Yangtze and the Mekong

it is
;

peculiarly plentiful on the Salwen.

have never returned to

tell

They have died

or not.

with

their harvest at the risk of

Gold-seekers

lives.

the tribes sow rice in the

of

but

There

is

gold in

regularly

worked

it

is

said to be

The treasure-hunters

whether the story was true

the fever, or have been

of

swept down by the wild waves of the Lu-kiang, as the

Salwen

is

named up

the 'Valley of

here.

Some

the Shadow,' because

through gloomy chasms, with the

their

brows together overhead

two claims
"

And

of the tribes call it

cliffs

it

and you

see that it has

to the title."

is it

the same

all

the

mostly runs

nearly knocking

way down

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

86
"

Not exactly

all

the

way

eight hundred miles from this

among

selves

British

for at its

mouth

you would
and

shipping

the

some

find your-

comfortable

bungalows of our countrymen at Moulmein and Martaban.

But I daresay there

is

no stream in the world that has

so confined a basin, considering its great length."

" It

must be

like old Euclid's definition of a line

length without breadth," said Tom.

"But how
more
tell

dat ribber to be got ober, sar ?" was the

is

practical

remark

you how him get

"

of Hannibal.
'cross,

Did Massa Polo

and come back again

all

'live ?"

"

We

will see

to-morrow morning," replied the doctor,

and we could get no further explanation from him that

evening.

At daybreak we followed the range bordering the

river,

and soon came upon the water boiling and roaring far
beneath us between steep walls scarcely a stone-throw
apart. Gradually the opposing clifis approached nearer,

we came

to a stop at a spot

where

advance a hundred yards further.

now

it

Our Thibetan guards

prepared to leave us and return home.

looks and rough boisterous manners

first,

but

we had found them

and

seemed impossible to

Their

fierce

had alarmed us

not unkindly.

at

Their

captain, Tzang, took a quite affectionate farewell of the

doctor,

whom

he credited, and I daresay rightly, with

having saved his

life.

He

insisted,

in

token of his

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

gratitude,

on pressing upon

on which we were
but at

this,

riding.

us, as

Our

a present, the animals

chief

would not hear of

the matter was adjusted

last

87

by Tzang

accepting in turn a handsome gold chain which the

"

wandering

distributed

rajahs," as

among

ing, while all this

few

rupees

they are called up here

were

the followers, and were received with

noisy shouts of delight.

of friendship to

from his watch.

doctor removed

Tom and

was going

I could not help think-

on, that it

was

abandon us on the edge

scarcely

an act

of a precipice,

and that unless the mules could jump across the gulf
that lay in our path, they could hardly be of service to
us.

We

said nothing, however, as the doctor

seemed

quite satisfied,

and advanced confidently towards two

slim lines that

we now

for the first time noticed span-

One

ning the abyss, like spiders' threads.

of these lines,

which we found, on approaching, to be of wire chain,

started

from an elevated point on the opposite bank,

and sloped down towards our

side,

was higher on the hither bank.

extremity

of

this

latter

while the other rope

To a platform

chain the

doctor

at the

ascended,

seated himself on a sort of leathern sling that

moved

along the rope on a skid, cast himself loose, and in an

instant he

a bird.

had skimmed across

Then unfastening the

to the opposite cliff like

sling,

and adjusting

it

on

the other chain, he slipped back to us with equal ease.

After this illustration of the method of usinof this

THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW.

88

curious bridge,

we

could have no hesitation, and the

mules and baggage of our party, which

still

included

the Kashgaree traders, were slung one by one upon the

rope,

that

and launched safely across the chasm.

when

my

my

turn came to take

seat

own

on the strap

of rough hide on which the precarious passage had to

be made, I

by a

did not feel comfortable.

Suspended, as

thread, over the gulf of darkness, with the plash

and boom of the torrent

awe-stricken and almost

became giddy and

securely on firm

faint,
soil.

from below, I

rising

terrified.

For

felt

moment

but in the next I was standing

I

think

we were

all

relieved

when, waving farewell to our Thibetan friends on the

other side,

we

turned our backs on

Shadows and Eiver

of Death.

that Valley of

CHAPTER

VII.

YAKS AND LAMAS.

OR

the next few stages of the route nothing

very wonderful befell

The track was

us.

more frequented, and more care had been

taken in

its

construction.

way had been hewn

face of the

cliffs,

In some places a narrow cause-

for a considerable distance along the

and occasionally the road was carried

over strong timber beams driven into the rock, and

paved with rough boards or

The track

slabs.

still

zig-

zagged as before from the clouds into the bowels of the

earth,

as

and back again

we were now on

of Tali, led us
east.

There

approaching

more
were

into the clouds

but

its direction,

the highway to the famous city

to the

plenty

civilization.

southward instead of due

of

The tribesmen

glared at us with greedy eyes, as

if

we were
whom we met

that

signs

they would have

liked the excitement of rifling our packs and perhaps

cutting our throats

but our resolute bearing and our

arms probably prevented attack.

They were dressed no

YAKS AND LAMAS.

90

longer in skins, but in blue and white cotton cloths,

which had probably been woven in Manchester.

of goats, sheep,

and yaks

the patches of
barley, oats,

level

Herds

pastured about their huts,

and

ground were waving with ripe

and buckwheat, showing that more peaceand kidnapping

able pursuits than robbery

filled

up

part at least of their time.

Then

as

we approached

the "divide" between the

Salwen and the Mekong, we came at long intervals on

Thibetan grazing-farms and hamlets, and were able to

how

study

this secluded folk

The great two

stones,

or

without

three story houses, built of rough

mortar,

looked

The

as they really are.

features,

behave themselves at home.

like

tall stature,

"

border

keeps

strongly-marked

and abrupt gestures of the people

the coarse

garments of sheep-skin, drawn in at the waist by a

belt in

which at

least

one formidable knife was always

stuck; the strange nick-nacks of glass, turquoise, and

coral

which they wore as charms or ornaments

all

in thorough keeping with the houses.

dwellings there were perhaps more

and rude

and the

dogs that slouched at their heels, were

big, fierce-looking

curiosity than

we

liked

dirt,

Within the

and confusion,

but the hearty good-

made amends

will

and hospitality

We

were regaled with milk, butter, cheese, eggs, and

tsamba unlimited

of the people

-for

alL

and we could hardly prevail on these

mountain shepherds to take anything in payment.

YAKS AND LAMAS.

arm

sight of Hannibal's bare

ebony placed alongside

of

was thought

of our white skins

91

recompense,

sufficient

and would make a whole company roar with laughter

for

an hour.

We

were warned, however, that

sant so long as

was

it

all

very plea-

we were among the common people, but

who cherish a
fanatical hatred of our race and creed, we might " look
These lamas, as the reader may know,
out for squalls."
dwell together, sometimes in communities of many thousands, under a vow of. celibacy and in perpetual contemthat

when we came

across the lamas,

plation of the virtues

By

all

who

of

their

great master, Buddha.

accounts, however, they are a sad set of rascals,

live in ease

and

idleness

on the

toils

of

men more
who have

ignorant but more honest than themselves, and

managed by degrees

of the country into their hands.

fear that

if

foreign

power and wealth

to gather all the

The cunning knaves

commerce found

its

way

into the

country their day would be done, and hence their deter-

mination to turn back every stranger from their frontiers.

We

had some doubts

as to our

welcome when we

learned that another day's march would bring us to a

lamissary highly reputed for the sanctity and learning

of its inmates.

able

to

into

the good

possess

By

rare good fortune, however,

ourselves

graces of

of

the

we were

means of getting

the suspicious monks.

We

YAKS AND LAMAS.

92

were informed at a Thibetan hamlet that a party of

wild yaks, led by a bull of extraordinary

size,

had been

seen lately roving on the slopes of the neighbouring

snowy mountain.

The doctor resolved

to

set

out in

he had a special wish to study the peculiarities

chase, as

of the wild breed.

Scouts brought in news that the yaks were feeding

in a grassy valley in a mass of mountains three or four

miles

and partly in the direction in which we were

oif,

We

moving.

learned that at the head of the glen there

was a pass over the mountain

snow-line

some distance above the

at

and our plan of action was to send a party

of our Thibetan friends,

who were

easily

tempted by the

prospect of fresh meat to join the enterprise, to disturb

the animals and head them

up the

They would

valley.

be almost sure to endeavour to escape over the pass

here, it

was arranged, we should

lie

and

in wait to intercept

them.

We
after a

started at

most fatiguing climb reached our posts before the

day was

any sign
shelter,
it

an unearthly hour in the morning, and

far advanced.
of a

and in

Here we watched long without

reward for our trouble.

spite of our

terribly chilly

warm

There was no

fur coverings

we found

work waiting among the snow, more

especially as the thick clouds of

vapour that rolled about

us shut out our view of the world below.

"

This

is

the coldest job

we have had

yet,

and

I can't

YAKS AND LAMAS.

wonder that even yaks don't

like to

93

come up so high,"

rubbing his numbed hands and stamping his

Tom

said,

feet,

while the rest of us also hopped about as

if

we

were executing a new figure in a country dance.

Hush

"

"

said Hannibal,

who had an extremely quick

" t'ink I

heah dat big fellow grunt.

sense of hearing

Ha

ha

you

come up heah,

jes'

will you,

and get some-

fing to grunt for."

We

listened,

and

after a little heard

like that of a steam-engine, followed

an angry snort

by a

deep, hoarse,

lowing note that might have been mistaken for distant

thunder, and by the faint shouts of the beaters.

After

a brief interval, which, however, seemed to us eager

stalkers

an

age,

an immense shaggy head and shoulders

rose over the crest of the

glared around.

It

hill,

and a pair of

was the big

bull

fiery eyes

himself,

and a

splendid fellow he looked indeed, as he stood for a few

seconds petrified with rage and astonishment at the sight

The doctor might have got a long shot

of us.

at

him

at

that moment, but he waited in expectation of the bull

coming nearer.

My

front of the low pass

little to

the

direction.

left,

three companions were posted in

;

while I had taken

now

station a

ofi"

in that

had brought with me an old-fashioned

borrowed from our Kashgaree

this I

my

in case the herd should head

fellow-travellers,

placed the barrel of

my

rifle,

heart thumping with excitement dropped

rest,

and on

and with a

down on one

YAKS AND LAMAS.

94

knee behind

With a

cide the bull.

me

towards

crested the

This curious movement seemed to de-

it.

furious roar he charged straight

while his companions, following his lead,

brow

of the hill,

a wave of tossing horns,

had always

strictly

and bore down upon us

tails,

choice,

As

and shot

for myself,

for killing's

my

make

yards I

fired.

were now, however,

attention

who seemed

left

with

was taken up with

in a desperate hurry to

When

acquaintance.

he

was within

The shot struck him on the

rather low, and he

all

We

to

after shot resounded in the hills.

my whole

the monster bull,

With

game

and in the present case he had only wished

secure the big male.

no

like

chief

charged us against the barbarous

sport of wantonly destroying the wild

sake,

Our

and manes.

fell

bellowing loudly

the haste I was capable

shoulder, but

among

of, I

fifty

the snow.

pushed another

cartridge into the breach, and stopped just in time, with

a bullet through the heart, one of the consorts of the

mighty

bull as she

came pounding down upon me.

while, the lord of the herd

had struggled

Mean-

to his feet, stag-

gered forward some yards, and stood the picture of bafiled

rage

^his

grand front and spreading horns thrown high

in the air,
his tail his

and

his eyes blazing

shaggy

sides,

and pawing with

snow that was stained with

trigger of the second barrel,
fell

dead

" in his tracks."

with wrath, lashing with

his

blood.

his hoofs the

I

drew the

and with hardly a groan he

YAKS AND LAMAS.

My

95

companions had been equally successful in stop-

ping the charge of the younger bull and his mates, who,
after each receiving a shot in a vital place,

had turned

and attempted to escape before getting their

final coup.

Hardly was

this brisk incident over

when

the beaters

appeared at the head of the pass, and great was their

rejoicing

over our achievement

but for ourselves, I

many

think a feeling of regret at having deprived so

was almost above our

splendid, vigorous creatures of life

sportsman's triumph.

Having possessed ourselves

with as much yak's

with

us,

we

as

flesh

of the big bull's head,

we

and

away

cared to bring

presented two of the carcasses to our assist-

ants as a recompense for their help, reserving the others

as a timely present for the inmates of the lamissary,

which could be reached in three hours' ride from the

On

spot where our adventure occurred.

the route

we

were rejoined by our travelling companions, the Kashgaree merchants,

who

listened to the details of our

hunt

with no other response than a solemn "Allah be praised!"

at the close.

They did not appear

to

of the sportsman feeling themselves,

gan

to

either,

suspect that they

have a large share

and indeed we be-

were not much of traders

and to wonder what were

really the contents of

the strange packages and bales that they carried with

them.

If I

been because

have said
I

had

little

little

about them hitherto,

to

tell.

They

it

has

coldly repelled

YAKS AND LAMAS.

96

"

our attempts to

fraternize "

with them, and though

they were pleased enough with our companionship so

long as

we were exposed

they seemed to feel

to attack

our

from the robber

presence

tribes,

become more em-

barrassing with every mile that brought us nearer to

the frontier of China.

mysterious

about

understanding
Thibetans.

that

There was certainly something

their

and

journey

existed

between

the

excellent

them

and the

But Khodja Akbar Khan, the

chief of the

party, a grave personage with deeply-marked, sinister-

looking features, and a flowing black beard edged with

gray, looked the last person in the world to let a secret
slip

from him, and, judging by a fanatical gleam that

now and then shone

felt

more at

would probably have

"
his ease cutting off the heads of " infidels

like ourselves

pany.

in his eyes, he

than in travelling quietly in their com-

His two chief associates appeared to be com-

pletely under subjection to him,

and

their half-dozen

attendants were as silent as mutes.

Meanwhile

it

was plain that we were approaching the

precincts of the lamissary.

signs of the Buddhist faith
into this country.

little cylinder,

at the

We

had already seen many

and worship

since

we had come

Every other person we met carried

which he kept twirling round, muttering

same time something half below

his breath.

At

the door of each dwelling stood one and often several

larger cylinders of the

same type, and every one that

THIBETAN WITH HIS PR A Y NQ' M

I

LL.

Page

96.

YAKS AND LAMAS.

97

passed out or in gave the wheel a turn for the benefit of

the household.

On

the summits of the rocks

other specimens of these prayer-mills

driven by the wind

we

invariably found a

we

observed

for such they

were

while at the crossings of streams

water-wheel revolving with

little

the current, and enclosing a cylinder written over with the

met our eyes wherever we went.

strange characters that

At every pass over the mountains we came upon what

in our own Highlands at home would be called a cairn,
made up of stones left there by faithful devotees of the
Yellow Religion in gratitude for having escaped thus far
the perils of the way, and to propitiate the favour of the
evil

spirits of the hills

letters

were

inscribed.

and on each stone the mystic

From

by the wayside,

the trees

and at the end of long wands hung

like

fishing-rods

over the streams, fluttered scraps of paper or cloth with

the pious formula repeated upon them, so that a breath
of

wind could not blow without wafting

to

heaven

thousands of prayers from the wayfarers that had passed

over this road.

we were about

The great
to visit

sanctity of the monastery

was shown by the

stretched across the ravine which led

up

lines that

to its gates,

and from which dangled innumerable rags of

oiled paper, scribbled over

on both

sides

were

with prayers

carved

wjth

the

silk or

and the rocks

never-ending

petition.

We
(690)

began to meet the inmates of the monastery

7

YAKS AND LAMAS.

98

walking singly or in twos and threes

tall,

strange-

looking figures, generally dressed in long gowns of red

or green serge, with a yellow scarf across the shoulders,

and red

Their heads were shaven

boots.

and under-

neath their black eyebrows they cast disdainful and

we

suspicious glances at us as

passed.

Around

their

necks they wore strings of coral beads like rosaries, and

each carried in his hand a

little

assiduously twirled while he

may have been

prayer- wheel, which he

mumbled

They

his litany.

learned and pious men, but there could

be no question that they were deplorably dirty.

"

What do

tering,

Tom

these fellows

mean by

continually mut-

'Niminy-piminy, niminy-piminy,' sir?"

asked

the querist, turning to our usual source for infor-

mation, as

we

rode up towards the gate of a great pile

of blind-looking buildings that

might have been mistaken

now came in sight, and

for

an old feudal

"

that

strength

"

but for the gilded roof rising in the centre, with gables
turned up at the corners, like those

we had

seen in

pictures of Chinese pagodas.

" I

daresay

anything
as

it

sounds more like

else," said

much meaning

'

niminy-piminy* than

Dr. Roland, smiling, " and has about

to them.

They intend

to say,

'

Om

mani pemi hom.'

"And what
" It
"

means,

But," said

does
'

'

Om

mani pemi hom' mean, then?"

Oh, the jewel in the

lotus.'

Tom, looking more puzzled than

before,

YAKS AND LAMAS.

" I don't see that that
*

makes

the jewel in the lotus

"

it

much

99

What

plainer.

is

"
'

Nay, you have cornered me now, Tom," said our

friend

about

"

whole

libraries

books have been written

of

and instead of making

it,

it

plainer they have

only made the mystery more profound.

Every

syllable

has been taken to pieces, and every letter dissected, and

the strangest and most contradictory meanings discovered

hidden in them.

pointing to a group
wheels,

have no doubt our friends there,"

that

were busily twirling their

"have the whole controversy

ends, like the prayer itself.

of the

votaries

their

and

of Buddha,

life

is

supposed to be a

which will admit them,

through millions of changes, into Nirvana

the state of total unconsciousness which

notion of heaven and future

that at

finger-

It is the universal petition

prayer for that perfection of

after passing

at

any given moment

bliss.

this

is

their sad

You may be

mystic prayer

is

sure

being

repeated by hundreds of thousands of lips in Buddhist

lands."

us

am

much

prehend

not sure whether the doctor's explanation

the wiser, and
it

when we

we were

still

made

struggling to com-

halted at the gate of the lamissary.

Notice had been sent of our coming, and the chief lama,

with his principal

officers,

was

in waiting for us, most

gorgeously dressed in robes of red and yellow, and his

head crowned with an immense gilded

hat.

He was

YAKS AND LAMAS.

100

weazened-faced old man, whose expression of features

spoke more of cunning and meanness than of benevoI thought I caught a look of intelligence ex-

lence.

changed between him and Khodja Akbar, whose arrival

did

seem

not

to

surprise

towards us with an

On

will.

him, and then he turned

not bode any good-

air that did

Dr. Roland coming forward, however, and

explaining, as

we gathered from

spoke in Chinese,

his gestures,

for

we had

the handsome addition

he

pro-

vided for the larder of the monastery, the old bonze's

mien underwent a wonderful change, and

his features

puckered up into a smile that was meant to be

It is against the strict rules of the order to

affable.

partake of

the flesh of any animal, for according to the Buddhist

belief it

may have harboured the soul of some of their dead

ancestors

but in these remote mountains the monks do

not keep their vows very

So our present was

strictly.

graciously accepted, and a party of

men and mules was

hastily despatched to the pass to bring

casses of the

away

the car-

yaks before they would be discovered by

the gaunt Thibetan wolves, while

we were ushered

into

the interior of the lamissary.

We

found ourselves in a spacious courtyard, sur-

rounded on three sides by the living-rooms of the lamas,

with a great temple, highly decorated and
us.

After being shown the lodging which

gilt,

facing

we were

to

occupy for the night, we were taken into the temple,

YAKS AND LAMAS.

101

where a huge brazen statue of Buddha was the chief

object,

and was surrounded by

altars of offering, barbar-

ous musical instruments, and carved dragons and other

The walls were painted with strange

fantastic figures.

pictures

and devices in glaring

were rows of small

of manuscript,

we

figures of

and other

colours, while in recesses

Buddha

in solid gold, rolls

Here, by direction,

treasures.

deposited our principal valuables under the care of

the presiding deity.

deference

We

noticed that even here great

was paid by the Buddhist

priests

to

our

Mussulman companions, though what could be the bond

of union between people so widely separated

and creed we could not imagine.

for I noticed that

by

race

It could not be love,

on leaving the temple Khodja Akbar

spat on the ground in token of his abhorrence of the

idolaters

though

the Buddhists deny that they are idol-

worshippers, and say that the figures in their temples

are only memorials in honour of their great teacher.

The

insult

was noticed by one

of our

lama guides, and

shall not easily forget the look of concentrated hate that

he darted at the offender.

We

were afterwards served with an ample meal, in

which the unfailing tsamba and buttered tea formed the

principal dishes

but there was also a variety of small

cakes and confections, in the making of which the monks

showed not a

little

skill

and

taste.

fellow-travellers, as usual, ate apart.

Our Mussulman

They

retired early

YAKS AND LAMAS.

102

from the guest-chamber

and as

it

was slow work ex-

changing ideas with the monks by means of

signs,

we

were not long in following their example.

The sun was shining brightly

we awakened next morning,

the early hour at which

had been up the previous day, and the

ment

of the

when

in the courtyard

yak hunt, having caused

To

sleep our usual hour of rising.

toils

all of

and

we

excite-

us to over-

our surprise

we

found,

on making inquiry of the monks, that Khodja Akbar and

his

company had

left before

we were

up, without taking

More than

the trouble of saying good-bye.

that, the

gate of the lamissary was not only closed, but a goodly

number

were gathered about

of the inmates

We

bar any attempt to pass through.

it,

as

if

to

could see from

the doctor's looks that he was very uneasy and anxious

to get

off.

plot of

some kind was being woven, and

we had

got entangled in the meshes against our will.

Luckily

we had

to take

charge of our weapons for

worst

we were

resisted the pressing offers of the lamas

well armed.

us, so

that at the

Dr. Eoland asked to see

the chief lama, and he came to us with a face that had

lost all
fact,

the forced amiability that

it

wore yesterday.

In

without understanding the words he addressed to

our chief,

we

in his voice,

could notice distinctly a tone of insolence

which grew gradually more marked as the

conversation proceeded.

We

waited anxiously for the

upshot, feeling that some dangerous crisis

was approach-

YAKS AND LAMAS.

The doctor seemed

ing.

103

by

to begin

offering thanks

we had received, and a cahn request

now be allowed to bid good-bye to our

for the hospitality

that

we

hosts.

should

The lama

replied in

mocking

accents,

and as the

doctor proceeded to repeat his request more firmly, the

high priest appeared to give an emphatic refusal

the

men with whom

nearer in a threatening
rising high.

as

we

could,

We,

also,

was

the courtyard

manner

while

filled

drew
words

as they heard

much
for we

while hiding our anxiety as

began to get our weapons ready

was

suspected that though the shedding of blood

for-

bidden to the brotherhood, they were capable of finding

means of making away with troublesome

would

satisfy their consciences

was time

to act

from

the enclosure until his eye

hung near the convent

his belt,

fell

gate.

score.

his

Drawing

with energy.

a six-chambered one

on that

make up

Dr. Eoland appeared to

visitors that

mind that

it

his revolver

he glanced round

on an immense gong that

The

sight of

probably

it

reminded him of the capital practice that he had made

at Hannibal's saucepan,
target,

many

he

fired five shots in

it

we brought

our

its

rifles

as at a

quick succession, drilling as

holes through the sounding brass in a

must have sadly marred

while

and taking aim at

way

after performances.

that

Then,

to our shoulders, he turned

on the mob of lamas that had been hurrying up from

all

sides,

but

who now

fled helter-skelter, tripping

over

YAKS AND LAMAS.

104

each other and on the hems of their long gowns in their

way

of the terrible little weapon.

lama alone held

his ground, but his yellow,

haste to get out of the

The

chief

wrinkled face was so convulsed with fear and surprise

that
of

was quite comical

it

the power

flintlock
soldier,

He had some

but this marvellous article,

property

of

was new

to him,

firing

without

notion

an old-fashioned

indeed,

one of the regular arms of the

is

to see.

the gun,

of

Thibetan

with the magical

needing

to

be

loaded,

and he evidently believed that the

doctor held in his hand the lives of himself and all his

convent.

When,

therefore, he heard the request to bring

out our mules and to throw open the gate repeated in

stern tones, with the revolver pointed at his head, he

sulkily gave the necessary

who
now
little

command

to his underlings,

hastened to obey the order, plainly more anxious

to see us

beyond

their walls

than they had been a

before to retain us.

In a minute or two

we were

again mounted on our

long-eared but sagacious steeds, retreating in triumph

with our baggage, which had not escaped some

though

we

the extent, and pursued at a safe distance

curses,

pillaging,

did not care just then to examine narrowly

by

yells,

and stones from our hospitable entertainers of

the previous evening.

CHAPTER

VIII.

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

OR

several hours

we

rode on with scarcely any-

other purpose in view than to put as wide a

distance as possible between us

and our

Several roads, or rather bridle-tracks, led

hosts.

We

in different directions from the lamissary.

late

away

chose the

one that the doctor's pocket-compass told us agreed the

most closely with the

line

towards the south-east.

we wished

to follow

I cannot, of course, tell

the others were as rough and steep, but

if

namely,

whether

they were,

do not believe that the lamas can much enjoy riding

exercise.

A path

more

bare, desolate,

and savage as

to

surroimdings, or more narrow, slippery, and rugged under

foot,'

we had not
as we

upon us

yet traversed.

The sun glared strongly

crossed a patch of open country, or

scrambled and slipped along a broken mountain-side

while

down

path.

Still,

which we plunged

in the deep gorges into

ever and anon,

we had

difficulty in

we hastened on with

all

making out the

the speed our nags

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

106

were capable

occasionally discussing eagerly the ex-

of,

which we had just taken

citing scene in

part,

and the

motives that could have prompted the lamas to keep us

more often

prisoners, but

silent

for the roughness of

the track generally compelled us to ride in Indian

and

keep

to

our wits about

all

Soon

us.

after losing

and

sight of the lamissary the signs of cultivation

habitants disappeared, and for some time

file,

in-

we had been

wandering through a region that seemed utterly deserted

by man and

beast.

As the sun got low

in the heavens the doctor

rein in a little green valley,

at once began to nibble the clover

" I don't

know

than where we

my

Our

if

We

grass.

were

we

the day.

will find

any place more snug

remarked our

we cannot be

reckoning

river.

toils of

are,"

and

down on the sward, thoroughly

glad to fling ourselves

exhausted with the

drew

where our hungry animals

far

leader, "

though by

from the great Mekong

friends the lamas will hardly care to

so far to fetch us back,

and

I think

come

we may camp

here

we have

seen

pretty safe from pursuit."

" Is.

the country uninhabited,

neither

men

sir,

that

nor houses for the last few hours

"

I in-

quired.
"

My

notion

is

that

we

are in the border-land between

Thibetan and Chinese territory," said the doctor

"

and

like other border-lands in barbarous countries, it is not

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

a quarter to choose for leading a quiet

107

would

life.

not have thought you would be so anxious, Bob, to meet

with your fellow-men after the

little

experience you had

with the Mishmis and the Lu-tze, not to mention our

entertainers of this morning.

that

we have met with no

"

well skinned

of us, as

"

and not

must keep our eyes

let sleep

get the better

when we allowed Khodja

slip away unperceived."

did this morning

it

Akbar and

usually to be found

is

We

districts.

" to-night,

surprised, though,

roving banditti, for in this

country a troop of these rascals

between the settled

am

his

company

Have you any

"I should not

to

idea where he has gone

like to venture a guess about a per-

sonage so mysterious

but

it

is

plain that he has not

travelled

by

travelled,

we would have overtaken him and

this road, otherwise, at the speed

Between

pany.

have seen the

"

You

com-

his

ourselves, I should not be sorry

last of

if

we

them."

needn't cook anything for

bal," said

we have

Tom, trying

me

to-night,

to put the best face on

it;

Hanni-

"I

feel

too tired to eat."

"

Berry lucky dat

dryly

" It

" couldn't

is,

Massa Tom," replied the negro

gib you anyt'ing

was a pity we

let

juicy yak-steaks, wasn't

it

if

you asked

those fellows have

?

"

for
all

it.'*

these

pursued Tom, with a mis-

chievous twinkle in his eye.

The question was

too

much

for Hannibal's composure.

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

108

Visions of the whole unwashed crowd of lamas feasting

on the

" roast

and boiled

"

which we had provided for

them, while his dear master had not a morsel to

rose before him, and he shook his
direction
"

fist

eat,

fiercely in the

from whence we had come.

Don't see any more bears hidin' around, Massa Bob?"

he asked, after recovering his good humour.

Involuntarily I glanced along the slope of the hill
above, and fancied I caught a glimpse of some dark-

behmd

looking object suddenly withdrawing from sight

a mass of rock.
to the spot,

more

I called the attention of

and we prepared cautiously

examine

it

it

was some spy watching

movements, whether in the interests of robbers,

lamas, or

we

to

This could hardly be a bear, and the idea

closely.

that occurred to us was that

our

my companions

Mussulman

ascended the

hill,

traders remained to be seen.

the figure of a

hind the rock and drew near to

ture of eager curiosity

From

his features

us,

man

from be-

with a singular mix-

and of hesitation

and other

rose

As

in his manner.

signs, including

tattoo-marks

on his cheeks, we judged him to belong to the same race

of savages

whom we had

seen scattered by the Thibetans

on the other side of the Salwen.

all

But

in the

new-comer

the harsh traits were subdued and refined.

He was

decently and cleanly clad also, in blue cotton jacket and

wide trousers
civilization

and altogether there was a certain

about him which

we

air of

hardly expected to meet

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

with in such a

109

You may judge

spot.

our surprise

if

was diminished when, having approached within a few

paces of us, he looked anxiously from face to face, and

then rapidly made the sign of the

tised in

The

Roman

such as

cross,

prac-

is

Catholic countries.

doctor, however, appeared to

have a clue to the

mystery that puzzled us so greatly, and entered into a

by means

conversation with the native, who,

of signs

and a few words of Chinese and French, led our conductor

to

understand that his dwelling was close at

hand, and that he would be glad to conduct us thither.

The

offer

was made with a friendly

vinced the doctor that

in a

it

few minutes we had

saddle, and,

was made
drao^ored

good faith

in

our

and

limbs into the

stiff

with the stranger as our guide, were again

climbing rocky

hills

and threading stony

about a quarter of an hour

of a pretty,

cordiality that con-

winding

we came upon

valley, that,

with

In

passes.

the upper end

fine trees shad-

ing the small stream flowing through the centre, and a

few sheep and goats pasturing on the slopes that rose

gently on either

side,

had a charmingly peaceful and

inviting aspect after the rugged

which we had reached

cottage, surrounded

this

by a few

and toilsome ways by

haven of

neat

with a

little

rest.

fruit trees,

garden in front containing vegetables and even a few

flowers,

To

occupied a sheltered nook in the valley.

this the guide led us,

and motioned us

to

dismount

and

110

ASTKAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

while our mules began to crop the grass,

selves under the

Our host disappeared

inside,

with a huge wooden bowl

and a

feeling

of

seated our-

and presently came forth

with rich goat's milk,

filled

pile of crisp barley cakes, which,

he

of welcome,

we

shady porch of the hut.

with a gesture

Then with a natural

laid before us.

good breeding he withdrew into the back-

ground beside his wife, whose shyness would not allow

we

her to come forward, though

could see that in dress

and looks she was as unlike her wild unkempt kindred as

her husband.

It

made me almost ashamed,

after listen-

ing to his declaration a few minutes before that he had

Tom

no appetite, to see the way in which

"

tucked

into "

it

little,

last.

Then

march

prepared to follow him

down

and

for

we

this pleasant spot

the valley.

On the way he explained to us that

man of our nation had come among
tribes of this district,

was time

it

and rather wonderingly

had counted on passing the night in

we

we

after

the master of the hut, whose name,

turned out, was Nga-te, signed to us that

to resume the

rest of us

and the bowl, which had

seemed bottomless, was emptied at

had rested a

But the

the milk and cakes.

were not a whit behind him

Wilson

a wise and good

the wild robber

after years of labour

and

appointment, had persuaded them to lay aside

savage habits and their wandering

life,

around him in this valley, where they

and

to settle

now

dis-

their

down

dwelt peace-

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

ably and pleasantly,
instead

flocks,

taught them

tilling the

fighting

of

Ill

ground and tending their

He had

and plundering.

beautiful lessons of mutual love

bearance out of a book

but

it

was

chiefly

and

by

for-

his ex-

ample of self-denying kindness, patience, and gentleness,

that they had become devoted to him, as our guide

appeared to

on the

and

be, heart

a stray goat

hills for

Nga had been searching

when he first noticed us.

soul.

Something about our appearance gave him the notion

that

we were

the same race as his pastor, and the

of

longer he watched us he grew the more convinced of the

fact,

and he was about to

steal

away and warn the

when we observed him.

chiefly by signs, we passed

settlement of our coming

Thus
other

discoursing,

cottages,

several

embowered in leaves and with

little

patches of cultivated ground about them, the occupants of

which came to
interest,

their doors

and saluted us with respectful

no doubt wondering what manner of people we

were and whence we had come.

At a sudden turn
scene

broke

descent,

upon

in the bed of the valley a lovely

us.

down which

in a series of cascades,
ful ferns,

and by

on their autumn
either side,

At our

feet

was

steep

the brook at our side bickered

overhung with masses of beauti-

fine trees that

dress.

were beginning to put

Below, the

hills

receded on

and the vale opened up to meet a mighty

stream, whose turbid current ran like a broad yellow

ASTRAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

112

band

across the landscape.

This could be none other

than the famous Mekong, the great river of Cambodia,

whose

course,

from

unvisited source in the northern

its

mouth

deserts of Thibet to its

in the Chinese Sea, pro-

bably rivals that of some of the longest rivers on earth.

On

rolling

this

shore

by

flood,

on the opposite

overshadowed

lofty pine-clad peaks that dipped their feet in

the water,

we gazed

for

some seconds

yet

we

we

were to encounter on

dreamed of the

little

its

perils

and

sufferings that

Then we turned

bosom.

our eyes on the scene immediately below

of houses,

mere cabins in

arranged

with some sense of order and

size,

though as

in awe,

us.

score

but neatly thatched and

were

taste,

grouped about a building of rather larger dimensions,

near which was a

little

chapel surmounted

by a

cross.

Fruit trees, most of them of kinds which you are familiar

with in the temperate zone, grew thickly about the

dwellings,
close

and

trailing plants covered their walls.

apples, peaches,

Around the

and apricots shining among the

village

wheat, and maize

and

So

were we to them that we could make out the ripe

were

and down near the

light tinted plots,

us must be " paddy

tains that

fields of ripe or

"

foliage.

ripening barley,

river

were dark

which our Assam experience told

or rice-fields.

The

desolate

moun-

surrounded the scene, like the frame of a

picture, only

made

this green

and peaceful

little

Eden

look more refreshing and inviting to us weary travellers.

CHAPTER
HAVEN OF

EAVING
who
i

REST.

our mules in charge of the villagers,

testified

ment

IX.

at

our

as

much

house of the missionary, wishing,

by

surprise.

We

delight as astonish-

we hastened

arrival,
if

to

the

possible, to take

him

were not disappointed in

lookine: over the trim beech hedsje that

this

garden,

we found him

and

unconscious that such guests were at hand.

all

for

on

surrounded his

absorbed in the care of his plants,

The

carefully-propped fruit-trees and the alleys of rhododen-

dron and

tall

who had been

ting winds.

box

cast a shade

for people

so long exposed to scorching sun

The

rustic seat

hung with broad vine

grapes,

most tempting

and

cut-

under the veranda, over-

leaves

and

clusters

of purple

seemed made for jaded limbs to repose upon.

The flowers and

ferns, the cool-looking little spring of

water in the centre ornamented with pebbles and aquatic

plants, the glimpse

we

got through the open

books and writing materials,

(690)

all

window

of

spoke of a cultivated

A HAVEN OF

114

But most

taste.

EEST.

was the worthy pastor

attractive of all

himself, as, ignorant of our scrutiny,

he bent earnestly

over his task of weeding his plants.

His rather

dignified

tall

and

was clad in flowing cotton garments,

figure

which in cut were a compromise between the Chinese

and European
middle age

fashions.

He was

considerably past the

and time and care had ploughed some

wrinkles on the broad forehead and smoothly-shaven

cheeks.

The general expression

winning

goodness

but

stem

capable of giving a

the

full

dark

was one

eyes

of

seemed

and the kind-looking

glance,

a look of energy and

of being compressed with

lips

of the face

decision.
" Bonjour,

M. TAbb^" said the

doctor, in his heartiest

tones.

The Abb^ Ducrot

and

ecclesiastical

for such

we

learned was the

name

rank of the excellent French missionary

started at hearing so unexpectedly the accents of his

He

native tongue.

looked up quickly, and his eyes

meeting the black grinning features of Hannibal,

happened to be directly in his

" line

of vision," the

who

Dutch

hoe which he was using dropped from his hands in his

amazement.

am

not sure whether the good man's

idea

was not that he was about

Evil

One

and

at the other
of

Tom and

if

this notion

members

was

to be assailed

dispelled

first

by the

on glancing

of the party, the youthful faces

myself, and the bronzed features and the

A HAVEN OF
ample beard

REST.

115

of Dr. Roland, appearing as if

by magic just

above the level of his garden hedge, were in themselves

bewildering enough.

however, explained

how

few words from our

leader,

matters stood, and M. Ducrot

hastened to us, welcoming us with the warmth of an old

friend,

and with a charming courtesy of manner,

as if

we

were honoured and long-expected guests.

As

now

the sun had

this season,

we

set,

and the nights are cold at

did not linger long outside

and

for the

same reason, when we had been ushered into the good

priest's dwelling,

we were glad

to gather

round the stove,

while our host lighted his lamp, and bustled about, with
the aid of a native pupil and Hannibal, to lay the resources of his bachelor establishment at

After our performances at Nga's,

so

much

or as he

justice to the

would have

good

we were not

preferred to revel in

the luxury of being again surrounded

of civilized

we might
study.

life.

able to do

father's fare as it deserved

We

liked.

our disposal.

by

all

the signs

Everything looked so home-like that

almost have been seated in a snug English

The

light

shone on well -filled

book -shelves

ranged round the walls, and a white table-cloth, with

knives, forks, and glasses, actually graced
Still

more surprising was

it,

the board.

perhaps, to see the abb^

bring forth a box of prime havannahs, which he smilingly

tendered to the doctor.

self,

Our host did not smoke him-

but some of his friends at Shanghai had forwarded

A HAVEN OF REST.

116

to

him

this present,

guest could find use

which he would be delighted

if

his

for.

This led them on to speak of the European society

at Shanghai,

which Dr. Koland had

visited,

and where

he had picked up the smattering of Chinese he possessed.

Our

host, in order to give us lads the benefit of the con-

spoke in English, which

versation, good-naturedly

talked with

make

man

much

us feel as

if

But

fluency.

we were

it

he

did not need this to

in the presence of a country-

though, of course, M. Ducrot was not only of dif-

ferent race but of another creed than ours.

in this remote region, surrounded

But away

by savage and

hostile

between Frenchman and English-

peoples, the distinction

man, stanch Protestant and zealous Bomanist, so great

as that

seemed in Europe, was of comparatively

we were

Last evening

account.

was loaded with danger and

dice

in

suspicion.

Hate and preju-

were barely covered by a thin show of

and everything was

petty, false,

and

little

an atmosphere that

hospitality,

To-night

base.

we

All was frank, manly, kindly,

breathed again freely.

and honest, and we understood the

difference

between

Christian Europe and benighted Asia.

To our host we were

planet,

like messengers

and he eagerly questioned us

from another

as to the great

public events, the discoveries in science, and the move-

ments in

literature

and

from the outer world

art,

since he

and on

all

last

these

had tidings
matters Dr.

A HAVEN OF REST.
Roland was able fully to

117

We

satisfy him.

recounted

our adventures, and presented him with some scraps of

"home" newspapers which we found among our

old

The news

packages.

them was three months

in

old,

but

a year had passed since he had heard from Europe,

and he accepted them more eagerly than

been crisp bank-notes.

own

of his
colony.

they had

if

In return he told us something

experiences in founding this flourishing

was a history

It

of heroism

little

and devotion, better

worth recording than that of our own aimless wander-

Even now, when

but too long to be inserted here.

ings,

success

had so far crowned

his efforts,

he could not

tell

when

misfortune might come,

blue,"

through the hatred of the lamas, the jealousy of

the Chinese
ruin

officials,

" like

a bolt from the

or the outbreak of civil war,

and

all his labours.

This led the abb^ and our chief to discuss at great

length the circumstances of the land and the times

and

though the

rest of the party did not understand half of

what these

seniors talked about,

we knew

that they had

found a clue to the mysterious conduct of Khodja Akbar

and the people of the monastery.

as decrepit

and
of

disease

and

feeble, like

some huge giant

had made almost

Mohammedan and

of the empire had, a

They spoke

helpless.

of

China

whom

age

The outbreak

other rebellions in different parts

few years

before, threatened to

up the Flowery Land into discordant fragments, and

break
it

had

A HAVEN OF

118

only recovered

unity after a terrible

its

province in which

war had raged

BEST.

we had now

arrived

effort.

In the

Yunnan

civil

for nearly a generation; a Mussulman

kingdom had been founded and destroyed amid

incredible

Flourishing cities had been razed to the

bloodshed.

ground, and by battle, massacre, famine, and pestilence

six-sevenths of the population

had been swept away.

The

had no sooner begun

province, M. Ducrot told us,

recover from

Reports had come to him of

to break out again.

risings of the

called

to

exhaustion than disturbances were ready

its

Panthays

in the country

were eager to throw

as the

Mussulman
river.

The lamas

of Pekin,

and would

beyond the

off the

yoke

new

rebels were

gladly encourage the insurgents.

Our

seniors

had no doubt that Khodja Akbar, instead

of being a " trader,"

was none other than a Mohammedan

" mullah," or priest,

charged with the task of stirring up

the smouldering zeal of the followers of the prophet, and

probably the bearer of important tidings from some other

disaffected portion of the

of the

Sun and Father

opinion that

we

wide dominions of the "Brother

of the Moon."

They were

also of

could not safely carry out our intention

of proceeding through China, with the certainty of fall-

ing into the clutches of the " white flags " or the " red
flags,"

the Imperialists or the Panthays,

the brigands.

was open

Then the question

to us

The most

arose,

feasible

or into those of

What

other route

seemed to be one

A HAVEN OF

REST.

119

that led to Bhamo, on the Upper Irrawady, in the territory

Golden Foot.

of His Majesty of the

for

Burmah we would meet

" lions

But even in making

on the way," in the

shape of robbers, rebels, and savages, not to mention

lofty mountains

and deep

rivers.

The doctor suggested the great

roar

we

whose hoarse

river,

could hear without, as a means of escape from

The abb^ shook

our predicament.

"Frenchmen have found

it

his head.

impossible to follow

up

that most intractable stream further than the Chinese

he

frontier,"

" I

with a touch of national pride.

said,

acknowledge the great qualities of your countrymen, M.

le

Docteur

energy

but

my own

their courage, their perseverance,

I cannot

and

their

admit that they will succeed where

compatriots have failed."

"But though Frenchmen were unable

river in the rainy season,

in descending

succeeded
for travel

And may

to ascend the

might not Frenchmen have

it

in

the season

not Englishmen

"

favourable
replied the

doctor, a little amused.

"

That

" but,"

said the excellent missionary, smiling

is true,"

"

he added,

you are a weak party, and

will be

almost at the mercy of the turbulent and barbarous

tribes that dwell
"

Yes

but

on the

we

are

river."

humble

travellers,

and not im-

portant personages, with grand schemes in their heads

of opening

up an unwilling empire

to trade,

and

so

we

A HAVEN OF

120

may

escape some of the troublesome notice that greater

have the river to

fall

jects, for

We

fatigues.

it

will be well to

and thus closed the

this

first

and kindred sub-

already talked far into the night.

spent a delightful

ourselves and

we had on

conversations

we had

rate,

back upon."

True, also," said the abbe

many

of

At any

met with.

folks have

"

REST.

our

beasts

week

and

at Ping-wan-chin,

from our

rapidly recruited

Nothing could exceed the kindness of the

abbe, or the goodwill and helpfulness of the villagers.

We

were not

idle

The

either.

doctor's notion of rest

included several hours a day of botanizing and geologiz-

surveying the

hills,

and similar work.

We

ing,

in

gauging the volume of the

climbing the beetling

cliffs

on the margin of the

Mekong, and exploring the woods

quite a dangerous " sensation."

We

had been busy

It

and one day we had

happened in

day scrambling over

all

collecting mineral, plant,

river,

had even a few mild adventures

this

way.

rocks,

and animal specimens

and

and in

the quiet of the afternoon, previous to starting for home,

we

rested for half

an hour.

Dr. Roland had perched

himself on a ledge of rock that overlooked a wide extent

of country

and

after

having made an outline sketch of

the hills and valleys that the view commanded, was

now

thoughtfully smoking one of M. Ducrot's cigars, while

Mandarin, a young Thibetan dog belonging to the abbe,

had

fallen asleep at his feet, tired

with several hours of

A HAVEN OF
Not

racing and chasing.

REST.

was stretched

far off I

length on a juniper bush, enjoying

so suggestive of "

my

121

at full

fragrant odour,

its

native heath," and watching the

frantic efforts of a beetle with a burnished-copper

to climb

was

up a slippery

letting

my

piece of rock.

when I fancied
Looking down into the little
day-dream,

from the doctor, to

my

In

me away

thoughts bear

heard a pebble

fall.

gully that separated

me

horror I saw a great mountain

him, and seemed in the act of contracting

make a

spring.

and before

smoke

fact, I fear I

into a kind of

which had stolen up to within a few yards of

leopard,

fear,

back

My tongue seemed
I

could utter a word, a

muscles to

little

puff of

few yards of me, accompanied with

rose within a

the report of a

its

to be paralyzed with

rifle,

convulsions of death.

and the leopard

It

rolled over in the

was Tom, who, more

careful

than myself, had kept his gun loaded near his hand,

and who had managed just

in time to send a bullet

crashing through the great cat's skull.

You

should have seen

how

the doctor and Mandarin

started up, the one from reverie

sleep,

and how the

body, as

if

latter

and the other from

barked and growled over the

he had the whole credit of the performance,

while our chief came up and shook

hand.

Tom warmly by

I also grasped the dear fellow s fist hard,

feelings of deep thankfulness for

the

with

what he had done, and

with reproachful regret that I also had not been found

A HAVEN OF

122

on guard and ready

little,

as

REST.

Hannibal said

for the emergency.

Tom

but he looked at

in a

way that

said as plainly

words that he owed him a good turn, which he would

take

the

earliest

Tom had

animal

repaying.

The

was a female, and a search

of the

chance

possible

shot

of

neighbourhood threw light on the extreme boldness she

had shown;
off,

lives

many

for in a recess in the rocks, not

we came upon

three very

young leopard

cubs,

paces

whose

the mother had evidently believed to be in jeo-

We

pardy.

brought home the cubs, which were about

marked

the size of half-grown kittens, and prettily

and

M. Ducrot was to try the experiment of rearing them.

We

have not heard since what was their

The day had now come when we had

to our

kind host and the

the village.

many

friends

to bid farewell

we had made

in

A longer stay with them was not unlikely to

bring the settlement into trouble

time to spare,

fate.

if

we were

to

make

and we had not any

use of the most suit-

The doctor

able season for travelling.

gleanings in charge of the abb^,

who

left his scientific

in turn loaded us

with everything he imagined would be useful, while his

flock also

brought their goodwill

offerings.

They gathered

together to assist in packing our mules, and to see us

depart

shouted

away.

and, as they had learned from their pastor, they

Bon voyage
Our rest in

"

simple, kindly folks

"

after

this

us as

happy

we

valley

rode slowly

among

had been very grateful

these

to us.

It

A HAVEN OF
was

like a half-way house

REST.

where we had found shelter

and a welcome in a tempest, and we

we

123

felt

sad at heart as

prepared to plunge again into the storm.

lent priest

seemed at

least as sorry to part

The

with

He

us.

accompanied us some distance beyond the village

when

excel-

and

at last he shook our hands at leaving, I think I

saw moisture

my own

in his eyes.

were not very

am

not sure, however, as

clear at the time.

CHAPTER
AMONG THE

X.

PIGTAILS.

were to mention the outlandish names of

we

half the places that

passed or where

we

halted during the next few stages of our

journey, or to describe the

we

threaded, the streams

hills

we

we

climbed, the defiles

crossed,

customs and dresses of the people

and the strange

we came

in contact

with, the patience of the most gentle of readers might

At

be worn out.
could

down

roar of
ears.

its

our

but

were

eyes

still

an endless succession of ascents

we began
getting

to think

perhaps

accustomed

to

it

was

heights

that the mountains were not so lofty nor

the valleys between

left

we

turbulent waters was never long out of our

and depths

had

followed as closely as

the banks of the great Mekong, and the

The road was

and descents
that

we

first

behind

them

us.

quite so profound as those

we

There seemed to be more level

ground, and there certainly were more people and cultivation.

The

hill-tops

grew more rounded and

grassy,

AMONG THE

PIGTAILS.

and the slopes of the valleys were

125

and were

less steep,

covered with beautiful woods of pine, oak, chestnut, and

other trees.

Sometimes the

were scattered over a rolling

trees

sward, singly or in clumps, looking like an ornamental

English park, and there were not wanting troops of

deer and coveys of partridges and pheasants to complete

the resemblance.

At the bottom

of these green

along the banks of the

and

wooded

glens,

streams,

wooden cottages with vegetable gardens, orchards,

and

tilled fields

tributary

little

became not uncommon.

The doctor pointed out

to us

how

the shaggy yaks

and coarse-wooled sheep that we had seen feeding on

the

hills,

guarded by rough-coated and loud-tongued

Their place was

Thibetan shepherds, had disappeared.

taken by more domesticated-looking animals

people at

work

in the fields

were dressed in

loose cotton garments, instead of sheep-skins

As we advanced southward, gradually

and Indian corn superseded the thin
rye,

and plantations

of a

warmer

plant,

climate.

of sugar, cotton,

The white

from which opium

plains

below

where

silk

us,

is

and the

light

and

and
furs.

descending, rice
barley, oats,

and tobacco

flowers of the

and
told

poppy

manufactured, blazed in the

and mulberry and tea

or tea culture occupied a

trees

showed

busy people.

At

length a thicket of bamboos by the side of the river

warned us

to

keep on the

alert for the " big

game "

of

AMONG THE

126

the jungle

we had

the

fairly

tiger,

PIGTAILS.

the alligator, and the buffalo

returned

into

tropical

climes,

after

as

sojourn in the arctic regions.

The change

in the faces and in the manners of the

At

people was even more wonderful.

vals,

we came on little

stone,

villages

huddled together as

if

at long inter-

first,

composed of a few huts of

keep each other warm,

to

and not unlike the Thibetan hamlets we had

visited.

But the natives spoke neither Thibetan nor Chinese, nor

any other language that the doctor was acquainted with
and they lived under

chiefs

who appeared

bably

it

was

us,

however

their picturesque costume,

care

They were

nothing for either grand lama or emperor.

very kindly and hospitable to

to

and pro-

jaunty

little

hats perched on their heads, gaily-coloured jackets and

embroidered
cloth, like

light

belts,

legs

swathed in long

Piedmontese peasants,

rolls

among

cast,

that

made us

feel

these half-barbarous tribes than

among

people

When we

much more

left these

of

together with their

shade of complexion and high, well-cut features

almost a European

did

and

of

more at home

we

afterwards

civilized.

villages, generally

loaded with

presents from chiefs and people in exchange for the

small trinkets

we were

able to offer them,

we found

we had bidden farewell to simplicity and homeliness.

The paths we now struck upon were still rough and
dangerous, but they were more frequented, and great

AMONG THE

PIGTAILS.

127

labour and cost had been expended upon them.

Tunnels

were scooped along the sides of the gorges, and the road,
laid with great blocks of stone,

was supported

for many-

hundreds of yards over the abysses by great beams.

Bridges of stone arched the torrents

came

to a really important

and by-and-by we

work

suspension

bridge,

crossing, in

one span of two hundred

As

the Mekong.

the

of

on firmly by the handrails

down

made the

the gorge

and threatened

river,

mules by the

structure, leading our

iron
feet,

chains,

for

and

the chasm of

was no longer a track

there

along the right bank

engineering,

of

hung on heavy

we

bridles,

for us

crossed

this

and holding

the gusts that blew

bridge swing most ominously,

to hurl us over into the

muddy

current

that boiled a hundred feet below us.

Leaving the
districts that

to

river,

our

road then carried us into

became gradually more

Tom and me

at least,

more unfamiliar.

no longer be a doubt that we were

strange world of China.

If

whisked away into another

had,

by a wave

of his

enchanted region,

we

and puzzled by the

civilized,

and

yet,

There could

fairly within the

we had been suddenly

planet,

or

if

a magician

wand, transported us into some

could not have been more confused

sights

that

met

us.

The people

were so yellow, smooth, and smirking, so shaven and

shorn, their little beads of eyes leered at us so cunningly,

and

their pigtails

hung

so

funnily from under their

AMONG THE

128

wide-brimmed

hats, that

laughing in their faces.

ternatural

PIGTAILS.

we had some ado

to

keep from

The babies had a look

age and wisdom, and the old

men

looked

overgrown and wrinkled babies, in petticoats and

like

Instead

slippers.

manners

ot

of

the

bold, free

the mountaineers, our

stride

new

The

were soft-footed and insinuating.

and rude

acquaintances

corners of their

eyes were always wrinkling with a joyless grin

and, to

the truth, they struck us as more amusing than

tell

attractive.

we

of pre-

Most of them seemed miserably

occasionally

met with a high dame, dressed

poor, but

in richly-

flowered silk and glittering with precious stones, seated

in a sedan-chair, such as our great-great-grandmothers
used,

and borne along

at a swinging trot

naked

of four almost

We

coolies.

on the shoulders

were privileged, once

or twice, to see these ladies dismount,

and

that the humblest

home would have

village

at

lass

I do not think

envied these poor creatures their silks and jewels,

had seen them hobble painfully

mutilated stumps which were

them

for a

all

if

they

few yards on the

that fashion had left

for feet.

The

and the common people stared at us

ladies

strangers with undisguised curiosity,

and often openly

burst into shouts of laughter at the comical figures

in their eyes.

we

cut

They were good-natured enough, however,

and I daresay a British country crowd would not have

behaved better

if

a party of Celestials had suddenly

AMONG THE

PIGTAILS.

dropped among them from the clouds.

we would meet with an

But

occasionally

dignitary in his palan-

official

mounted on a mule, and attended by a

quin, or

bearers and attendants

and then we never

have a glance of extreme

at us, and

we were

we were and
tact

129

and

and perhaps,

arms, and the presents

we

we were

whither

patience,

till

we took

failed

to

and suspicion directed

ill-will

stopped

score of

could explain what

bound.

also,

Our

leader's

our bold front, our

care to bestow, brought

us safely out of what several times looked a serious

Accompanying the mandarin as a guard

predicament.

would be a party

of three or four soldiers, dressed in

flaming red, armed with

bow and

arrows, matchlocks,

long spears ending in three prongs, and other uncouth

weapons, and bearing a red

hideous dragon,

writhing

all

We

tail.

teeth,

flag,

and claws, and wings, and

noticed that at no great distance

we were
upon a group which we had no
from the

by

official

party

their white turbans

huis," or
sacres,

on which sprawled a

almost certain to come

difficulty in recognizing,

and whiskered

still

to

abound in the country

steps of the " red flags."

let

(690)

aside on the

us pass, and glared at us in a

showed

interfere

They drew

with

dislike
us,

and suspicion

having,

it

and

it

were dogging the

certainly occurred to us that they

plainly

Hui-

Mohammedans, who, notwithstanding the mas-

seemed

path to

faces, as "

narrow

way

that

but they did not

seemed,

more pressing

AMONG THE

130

matters

attend

to

PIGTAILS.

than a doubtful quarrel with

to

strangers.

The

air,

we

soon found, was

and wild rumours

full of alarm, uneasiness,

and the family

were country gentry

fleeing

parties

we had met

to the walled

towns for

Reports came to us that the "Hui-huis" had

refuge.

again raised the flag of rebellion, and were flocking to

hear a prophet from

We

holy war.

Chinese towns

afar,

who had come to preach a

if we entered any of the

were told that

we would

thrown into prison

certainly be

on suspicion of being in complicity with the insurgents

while

if

we

fell

into the hands of the rebels, a

worse fate would befall

us.

Thus we kept away

towns and

as far as

and

villages,

still

tried

to

we

could from the

approach again the

banks of the Mekong, which we knew must be recrossed

if

we were

It

was

ever to find our

easier to travel

parts than

it

fields

to

Burmah and
fire

and sword had

For hours we would march through

and gardens overgrown with weeds, and

the wrecks of cottage homes buried

nettles,

safety.

unobserved through these country

must have been before

wasted the land.

ruined

way

among thorns and

and from which no smoke had

risen since the

blazing embers had been quenched with the blood of the

happy
then

families

who had

we would come

and a

plot of

to a

once dwelt here.

Now

wooden shanty, recently

ground reclaimed from the waste.

and

built,

Thriv-

AMONG THE
ing crops of
little

rice, grain,

garden was

PIGTAILS.

131

and potatoes grew around

full of

and other vegetables that the Chinese are so

growing

the

and ducks, hens,

geese,

skilful in

and pigs played round

the doors, and

made

dwelling as

the owner had been an Irishman.

if

the beans, cabbages, cucumbers,

as free with the interior of the

On

seeing a mounted and armed party approach, the poor

people would come hastily forth and present us, in fear

and trembling, with

their offerings of curdled

cream,

cakes, vegetables, a fowl, or a piece of pork, along with

the kJiata, or " scarf of felicity,"

little

or gauze which fashion requires should

seeds of the sun-flower,

cottage,

surprised

the

which the Chinese

crack with great dexterity, but which

we knew

oflfered

and water-melon plants that

were growing round every

accompany every

For dessert we were

gift in these countries.

nothing of

square of silk

also pears of great size

we

and

could

make

flavom*,

which

how to dispose of. Our hosts seemed

when we insisted on paying for all we got.

better

They appeared

to

would proceed

to

expect

that

the "foreign devils"

them

butcher

in

return for their

kindness.

The few passengers we now met on the way were equally

fearful

and suspicious

and a

string of coolies,

whom wo

suddenly met in turning a comer of the rocky road,

flung
of us.

down

their packs

and

fled in

dismay at the sight

Strange was the merchandise and strange the

AMONG THE

132

coin

in

tea,

stamped and
us

strange

this

"bricks" of

among

their

He

flies

and
set

and

it

lizards

and what

not,

which he

on end the hair of every chemist

was in

reality,

he told

us,

a kind

for this repulsive medicine the Chinese

were eager to give

lieving

salt,

The doctor showed

particularly pointed out a collection of

projecting snout, which

;

and loaves of

each possessing what seemed to be a long

caterpillars,

of fungus

copper,

wares packages of drugs manufactured

enough to

in Europe.

For money we found

land.

bars of

lettered, in circulation.

from bones and

said were

PIGTAILS.

many

to be a sovereign

times

its

remedy

weight in gold, be-

for every disease.

We

were puzzled by finding whole bales of eggs about the

size of

a pea, which our chief explained were the spawn

of the curious

wax

insect,

which are every year conveyed

from Yunnan to the provinces farther north and placed

on trees, where, on reaching their larva stage, they deposit

a

wax which

is

one of the most important articles of

commerce in the country.

One evening we had

side inn

halted for the night at a road-

not one of the " fine hostelries

"

which Marco

Polo describes as having found in this quarter in his

day, but a humble and very dingy and dirty place, where

the landlord had nothing better to set before us than a

mess of

rice

and a

"

ham," which, on examination, turned

out to be the leg of a dog, and was therefore removed

untouched.

The doctor

plied his pair of " chopsticks

AMONG THE
with great

skill

"

133

on his own portion of

on smilingly while we
particles

PIGTAILS.
rice,

vainly strove to

ways

their

growled Tom, eying the dish hungrily.

spoon now
my

up a few

from the plate to the mouth.

Confound these people and

" I

and looked

lift

think I have had enough," said

I could not get the

plate.

I,

of eating

"If I had a

pushing

away

"dog-ham" out of
" I think, sir,

head, and felt rather squeamish.

1"

my

on the

whole, I would rather swallow Chinese medicine than

Chinese food."
"

Don't you think that for folks that will by-andrby

be setting up for great travellers you are rather too

particular

" said

China, though I
"

Amen

the doctor.

we

" If

hope we won't

" said

Tom and

are to be long in

I in a breath.

You will have to make your minds up to get over

many of the little prejudices you have brought from
Europe.
What would you say, now, to fried rat, or a
"

stew of black cat

tables here

flesh,

which you

"Ugh! ugh!" we

cried,

while Hannibal got up and

walked about uneasily, with

"

"Ah

his eyes rolling in his head.

dish of black cats' eyes

delicacy,
!

will find at the best-

is

considered a great

but I fear that would be beyond our means."

please don't, Massa Doctah

in a lamentable voice.

!"

pleaded Hannibal,

AMONG THE

134

" Birds'-nest soup,

"

now," said Dr. Roland, paying no

to the appeal, " or tipsy

heed

shrimps

"

interrupted Tom.

?"

"What are they

PIGTAILS.

That sounds

rather jolly."
"

When

Live shrimps, made tipsy with wine.

gambol and hop on the

you catch them in the

dish,

they

air be-

tween the chopsticks, and convey them to your mouth."

" I

am

sure I should never get tipsy on tipsy shrimps,"

Tom, shaking

said

" I

was about

his head.

to say," proceeded the doctor, " that

these are luxuries only to be got on the sea-coast

for a glimpse of the salt water, I daresay,

glad to

make a meal

" I believe I

and

we would be

of these jolly shrimps."

would even swallow a whole black cat

for that sight," said

"

Tom.

what are our prospects now,

The

doctor's voice

lost

But when are we

to see

it

sir ?"

some of the cheerfulness

always had when he was speaking to

us, as

he

it

replied,

You know what the landlord told me a little ago.

The Mekong is just beyond the nearest range of hills,

"

but beyond the river the country

the rebels and the banditti.
roads,

is

in the possession of

They hold

grief.

am

only too true, and that our retreat

"

the regular

and a party of traders who attempted to

through has come to

sides

all

towards

the coast,

What must we

afraid that
is

steal
it

is

cut off on both

and towards Burmah."

do, then, sir ?" I asked.

AMONG THE
"

Move on

and look out

PIGTAILS.

135

we

hopefully with the river as

for

some way of escape from

are going,

this distracted

empire into the savage countries to the south.

could only hear of a guide

we
"

could traverse

How

if

we but

am

find

can these people be so

begin fighting again,

when

some one to lead

Ay,

my

boy, that

is

us."

mad and wicked

the whole land

the misery and ruin of the last war

"

we

If

sure there are routes

!"

as to

is still full

of

I exclaimed.

a more reasonable remark than

your objection to Chinese food," said the doctor rather

sadly

"but I fear that

it

applies to

more people than

to

Chinese."

While we were speaking, we heard a hum and a shuffling

of feet without

looked

in,

and the landlord opened the door and

What he

with a gesture of apology.

told the

doctor was to the effect that the only survivor of the

trading party, whose disaster at the hands of the rebels

we had heard of, had been brought to his house, and

was now lying downstairs in a dying state. The unlucky fellow, the landlord informed

Chinaman, but a barbarian

news we pricked up our

Shan

a Burmese
ears, for it

Shan.

He had

and the region was

At

this

was through the

country, tributary to Burmah, that

find a route,

was not a

us,

we hoped

to

practically unexplored.

escaped almost by miracle from the knives of

the rebels, and, in spite of his wounds, had

the river.

He

seemed now in the

swum

last gasp,

across

but he had

AMONG THE

136

PIGTAILS.

been brought hither in the expectation that the foreign

On

necromancer would heal him by his magic.

the

strength of some simple remedies which the doctor had

applied with success, his fame as a physician,

means the same thing in China, a

sorcerer,

abroad, and already he had had brought to

what

or,

had spread

him

patients

wanting a leg or an arm, for the purpose of having the

missing limbs restored.

We

found the new patient lying in the courtyard,

surrounded by a gaping crowd,

sent

about their

business.

whom

the doctor at once

The wounded man had

several ugly slashes about his body, none of

fatal character,

but he was in the

ness from loss of blood.

his

them

last stage of

The doctor

carefully

oi a

weak-

bound up

wounds, and took the other measures in his power

him

to give

relief

and he was soon rewarded by the

poor fellow opening his eyes and casting on him a

grateful look.

He was

under the middle

size,

but of

a firmly knit and wiry frame, apparently capable of

enduring great fatigue.

His complexion was a coppery

brown, several degrees darker than the colour of the

Chinese

his features

were more regular and agreeable,

according to our taste, and their expression was more

open and manly.

His name was Yung- wan.

The doctor

determined that he would stand by him, not only from

motives of humanity, but also in the hope that he would

turn out to be the guide for

whom

he had sighed.

CHAPTER XL
PERILS BY LAND.
XING- WAN
and

care,

rallied rapidly

few days he was able to

in a

He showed

in the saddle.

ment

to his

under the doctor's

much

so

sit

attach-

kind benefactor as almost to arouse the

jealousy of Hannibal, whose chosen duty of anticipating

all

our chief's wants he began to invade.

were again prepared for a

plained to

Yung

start,

the line

we proposed

asked him for his services as guide,

ready consent.
tated.

Some

idea

little to

we

When we

and had ex-

therefore,

to follow,

we

and

expected

our surprise, the Shan hesi-

could not fathom seemed to strike

him, and he cast a suspicious glance at us, and even

made a

step or

two towards the

door.

Then another

impulse seized him, for he returned and heartily pro-

mised to accompany

us,

telling us that

he knew the

routes well, and that they would lead us past his

own

home.

For some days we travelled

parallel

with the

river,

PERILS BY LAND.

138

with

of incident to

little

of red sandstone

journey.

trees,

with here and there a stray plant

with strange devices of " squirming

"

dragons and gay-

while within the threshold was a

where the family burned "joss-sticks" or

altar,

of aromatic paper to

The people were

seemed

memory

the

inquisitive,

made

all

hills

The wooden houses were painted

tropics.

coloured birds

The

were well clothed with oaks, chestnuts,

and other familiar

from the

mark our

after one

little

squills

of their ancestors.

but not evil-disposed, and

pattern, like their quaint

little

gardens, and their fields divided like a chess-board.

Now

and then we caught a glimpse of the distant smoke

of a town, or of the red tunics of a

to both

we gave a wide

body

of troops, but

White watch-towers and

berth.

many-storied pagodas were perched on the heights, but

these also

we came

the river,

it

Where we got a peep

not near.

were often perpendicular, and many canoes

of rock that

paddled by nearly naked figures plied upon

night

fires

it.

boats attracted

fish

that crowded round the

by the gleam.

travelled,

Yung-wan

described to us in detail

the terrible fate that befell his late companions.

object

of their

journey he

could

it

with his own eyes

The

not or would not

explain; but there could be no doubt

had seen

At

were lighted on board, and the fishermen

might be seen spearing the

As we

of

ran in a swift current between great walls

for our guide

that they had been

PERILS BY LAND.

murdered in cold blood by the

139

rebels,

who had

evidently

got notice of their movements, and had laid an ambuscade.

The

depicted,

the

leader of

by a few graphic

"white flags"

Yung -wan

gestures, as a black-browed,

black-bearded personage, with piercing, restless eyes, and

wearing a huge white turban.

other,

for

We

the portrait recalled our

Khodja Akbar, who appeared fated

glanced at each
old

acquaintance

to be the evil genius

of our journey.

Our guide
far

at length decided that

we were

sufficiently

from the seat of danger to risk crossing the Mekong,

which

here, for once,

smooth deep current.

had a broad surface and flowed in a

was tedious work guiding the

It

mules down the steep, slippery bank to the river margin,

and having them punted and rowed across one by one

in a small barge that served as a ferry-boat.

On

the

other shore, also, the hills rose steeply to a height of

several

hundred

feet,

and the slope was covered with

great boulders and projecting masses of rock, overgrown

with thorns, brambles, creepers, and stunted forest trees

clinging to every ledge

was

and

a level cleared space,

cleft.

Near the summit

which we marked out from

below as a suitable resting-place for the night, and

leading up to
water-side

we

it

from narrow landing-places on the

could trace two rough tracks through the

mass of jungle and rock.

The path

starting

from the platform which was the

PERILS BY LAND.

140

lower down the stream of the two, seemed to be the

more open

but our boatman landed us at the bottom of

the other, explaining that

for

saddle animals.

was the only one practicable

it

If this

were the

we

case,

could

only wonder what the lower track could possibly be

like, for

the

a more detestable bit of road

We

met.

had

bridles,

to

we had

never yet

dismount and, leading our mules by

climb and struggle through thickets

full

of great barbed thorns and matted creepers, and over

polished and

slippery boulders

now and then plunging

and ragged

tree-roots,

into a mud-hole, or falling prone

and sending a cannonade of big stones bounding down

the slope, to the danger of the heads and limbs of our

The sweat was pouring from

companions behind.
brow, and
footing

my

energies were all directed to keeping

and helping

my

my
my

poor mule over a rock, when,

without any warning, I suddenly found myself pinioned

by a

pair of strong arms,

and saw the gleam

my

mense knife within a foot of

brief struggle

around

me

throat.

There was a

scuffling of feet, a clash of

weapons, and the discharge of a shot or two

vainly strove to set myself free
well comprehend that

an im-

of

we had

while I

but before I could

fallen into

an ambuscade,

the whole party had been overpowered, and were pri-

enemy who outnumbered us

soners in the hands of an

by ten

to one.

Where our

could hardly imagine, for

captors had sprung from I

we had

carefully siu-veyed the

PERILS BY LAND.

141

ground before beginning the ascent, and had seen no

human

trace of a

the plot

had been

The ferrymen were

being.

and indeed we had reason

spies

watching our

The

entered Yunnan.
the victims

least

trap,

plainly in

to believe that there

movement

we had

since

however, did not catch

all

for in the midst of the confusion I got

glimpse of the lithe form of

Yung-wan

slipping from

the grasp of his assailants, and creeping like a serpent

into the jungle.

We
ascent.

doctor

were hurried unceremoniously up the

Our
still

rifles

had been dragged from

rest of the
us,

but the

held his in his hand, and looked so threat-

eningly that none of the bandits ventured to dispute

its

We

possession.

determined bearing

worse than

When we

and as

resistance

would have been

we submitted to the guidance

best grace we could muster.

useless,

captors with the

longer

took courage from his calm and

reached the cleared space above,

empty and bare

as

we had

seen

it

it

of our

was no

from the

river.

group of perhaps twenty scowling cut-throats, armed

to the teeth,

was

collected

round a white standard

stuck in the ground, and in front of them stood a black-

bearded man, with eyes that fairly flashed with hate

and triumph from under

white turban.

dark brows and enormous

Our presentiment had come

Akbar himself!
it

his

For

true.

some unknown reason

It

was

unless

were the mere blind prejudice of race and creed

PEEILS BY LAND.

142

he bore a
"

fierce

grudge against

rock ahead" of

all

and had become the

us,

He

our plans.

greeted us with a

mocking, contemptuous smile, but made no other sign of

His followers fingered their knives, and

recognition.

looked at him as
sacre.

if

eagerly awaiting a signal for mas-

The doctor glanced round

coolly, as if

survey of the whole situation, and then,

still

taking a

holding his

gun, took a step or two nearer to our arch

My

foe.

eyes had followed those of our chief, and looking below,

I observed, though no one else seemed to notice

boat leaving the spot where

if

by

own

its

abandoned

their post,

in the plunder

that

will,

we

landed,

down-stream.

and

drifting, as

The boatmen had

and were hurrying

up-hill to share

and the idea flashed across

Yung- wan had something

to

the

it,

my

mind

do with the movement

of the craft.

My

thoughts were recalled by the voice of the doctor

addressing

Khodja Akbar

in

firm,

temperate

reminding him, as I understood from the

the good

offices

we had

tones,

gestiures,

of

paid to him, and asking for an

explanation of his violent and lawless treatment of us.

The only reply vouchsafed was a few muttered words,

and a sign

to one of his followers to take the doctor's

gun away from him.

Our

leader turned

upon the man

so fiercely, that the latter fell back a step or

two

and

then Khodja himself, with an ejaculation of rage, laid his

hand on the

barrel.

It

was high time

to act.

The

rebel

PERILS BY LAND.
soldiers

both

and brigands

had

seemed a mixture of

for there

their swords drawn,

143

and several had lighted

The insurgent

the fuses of their matchlocks.

had

chief

not counted on one weapon which an Englishman always

carries

The

about with him.

doctor, retaining his hold

of his rifle with his left hand, with his right " let out

with

all his

strength in the face of the insolent miscreant,

who dropped
" Run for
I

who had

I started to

he had been

shot.
"

the boat " he shouted to us.

Take the

had expected

rascal

if

hand path

right

ground as

to the

this order,

first

seized

and tripping up the big

me and

still

retained his hold,

run down-hill by the track that led to the

Tom and

lower landing-place.
well prepared.

They seemed

Hannibal were not so

to take the doctor's action

as the signal for a general onslaught, and wrestling themselves free, they "pitched into" the nearest of the

in the

most vigorous

Perhaps, after

style.

all,

enemy
was

this

the happiest course that could have been taken; for

the Chinamen
cuiFs,

fell

back, astonished at this lesson in

fisti-

and before they had quite recovered, Dr. Roland

seized the victorious warriors

force wheeled

collars,

and by main

them round and launched them

direction he wished
in their steps.

by the

them

in the

to go, following in hot haste

Meanwhile, in beginning

my

flight,

my

eye fastened on the doctor's precious note and sketch book,

every leaf of which I

knew he valued

at a " king's ran-

PERILS BY LAND.

144

som," lying in the grass, where

The impulse

dropped.

pick

it

Lucky

up.

it

seized

was

it

me

had been unheedingly

and to

to swerve aside

I did so

for at the instant I

my head, and
prize of my rifle,

stooped, a three-pronged spear hurtled over

my

who had made a

me and came crashing

nearest pursuer,

stumbled over

my

Seizing-the gun, I continued

in the race.

Down we went

rock and stump, and tearing

and

lianas,

being

now

pell-mell, leaping

" like

mad " through

with a yelling crew at our

occasionally whizzing past us.

climbing

flight,

the ground.

to

Our

heels,

last

over
briers

and a shot

late practice in hill-

stood us in good stead, but

how we

ever

reached the bottom without broken necks or limbs, I

could never understand.

on

his face, stood

In the boat, with a broad grin

Yung-wan the

able astonishment of

Tom and

guide, to the unutter-

Hannibal.

We

spent no

time in explanations, but, leaping into the boat, pushed

well out into the current before our pursuers reached the
shore.

We

part of our
liberty,

had

lost

baggage and baggage animals, and

ordnance, but had saved sweet

and bore away no scratch from the

what the thorns had

inflicted.

life

battle

and

beyond

CHAPTER

XII.

PERILS BY WATER.
T

first,

however, our safety did not seem so well

We

assured.

and brow

were followed along the slopes

of the hill

by the whole "rebel

army," and shots, some of them, no doubt, from our

own
lay

captured guns,

down

flat

fell

in the boat, so as not to afford a target,

and thus escaped

little

the firing ceased.

the stream with a

we had heard

that

enemy on

though two of the bullets

injury,

actually struck the craft

We

about us in the water.

new
for

and caused ugly

The boat seemed

After

leaks.

to slide

with

impetus, and a hoarse roaring

some time became

louder.

The

shore sent up a triumphant shout, and I raised

myself and looked around.

We

had

drifted for

more

than a mile from the scene of the late encounter, and the
river

was swinging round a

curve,

and entering one of

those gorges with sheer walls of rock of which

we had

already seen too much.

There was only an hour of daylight

(C90)

XO

left as

we

shot

PERILS BY WATER.

146

into this dark portal.

The current was already turbid

and

strong,

and deeply coloured with the red clay from

the

hills.

The

w^ater,

tall

cliffs

which looked

of escape there
so smoothly

like

threw their shadows on the

a rolling torrent of blood.

was none,

for the rocks

on either side rose

and perpendicularly that a

have climbed to the

top.

Way

squirrel could not

Ahead was a broad

line of

white, and the roar of the tumbling flood became so loud

that

we had

by each

to shout in order to

For aught we knew,

other.

cataract with a sheer plunge of a

we were

make our

hastening

helplessly

might be a

it

hundred
but

voices heard

feet to

seemed perfectly aware of what lay ahead,

us that these were only

We

confidence.

stream, and
line of

" rapids,"

before us a dark opening in the

foaming and tossing water

we

life.

and

for this

it

an

swiftness,

we

In a second or two, and

could properly collect our thoughts,

on the edge of
exceeding

signified to

and we gathered more

had pulled well into the centre of the

now saw

struggled literally for dear

before

which

Yung- wan, who

we were

inclined plane of water, glassy with

while on either

side

the angry

stream poured over a ledge of rocks seven or eight feet

in height.

me, as
of

remember the idea curiously occurring

we sped down

an arrow, that

it

was

like the bit of

that one often sees between the

of breakers.

to

the smooth slope with the swiftness

Next moment

snowy

unbroken water
tops of a line

was holding on

to the side

PERILS BY WATER.
of the boat with

all

my

might, as

147

heaved and rocked

it

and spun round and shipped quantities of water in the

With much

boiling pool below the rapids.

mainly by the

skilful steering of

to sheer clear of the whirlpools

" again

we urged

our wild career

and boiling

reefs,

and

ado,

Yung- wan, we managed

and
;

And

then

rapids,

and

rocks.

for

"

new

and contending currents

caldrons,

followed, mile after mile, in uninterrupted succession.

The thunder
ears,

was constantly

of the falling water

in our

and we were wet through with the spray from the

The boat sometimes was

rapids.

quite unmanageable.

and waltzed, and curvetted

It polkaed

like a horse rebel-

ling against a tight bridle, in the eddies, in a

might have seemed comical from the

appeared in quite a different
caught

like a steed

would bring

loose rein, until another eddying pool

At

there

last

smoother water.

seemed

that

Then, as the current

light.

would bound forward,

it

it,

way

shore, but to us

some

little

with
it

prospect

up.
of

For half a mile we had had no rapids,

only a swift current beaded with foam, that churned

against
ripples

its

banks, and was broken here and there

from a submerged rock.

out the boat, which was half

filled

We

by

were busy bailing

with water, when

we

became aware that another danger lay in store

for us.

The walls

stream,

narrowed

of
to

the canon contracted, and the

half

its

former breadth, rushed like an

enormous mill-race down a

steep,

confined

channel,

PERILS BY WATER.

148

interrupted

by rocks and

cross currents.

the prospect ahead told us that the boat in

glance at

condition would certainly capsize

shoot these formidable rapids on board of

less

time than

it

occupies to tell of

its

present

we attempted

if

to

In almost

it.

our measures were

it

taken, under the directions of the doctor

and Yung-wan.

We

them the guns,

stripped off our clothes, wrapping in

our slender stock of ammunition, and the note-books, for

Already

protection against the wet.

we had

fastened

short lengths of rope to the gunwale of the boat, in

anticipation of

an

At the head

upset.

the crazy craft began to

tilt

keeping a firm grip on his

of the rapids, as

and rock in the

little cable,

surf, each,

slipped over the

side into the wild chafing torrent.

Away we went

at "express speed," borne like chips

the troubled stream,

we were about

first

down

into a deep trough, as

to search the stream to its bed,

heaved up on a ridge of water,

like a

boat kept a pretty even keel, for

of her like outriggers,

we

on
if

and then

huge wave.

The

acted on either side

and the velocity of our course

seemed to keep our heads well above

surface.

But once

me for a
As we rose out

or twice a sudden swerve of the craft sent

second or

two completely under water.

of another hollow

and crested the

last

watery

ridge, I

caught a momentary glance of a seething mass of foam

below me, and beyond that a wide pool in which eddies

were

circling

and masses of water were welling up

like

PERILS BY WATER.

149

great boils, as the river prepared to take a more gentle

flow through a more open country.

It

was the bottom

of the rapids and the end of the caiion

deadly peril in conjunction.

Instinctively

closed like a vice over the rope,

day was shut

light of

my

buzzing in

and
"

my

whole

ears, as

faculties

out.

safety

my

and

fingers

and next instant the

There was a singing and

the waters closed over

my

head,

seemed to be concentrated into

holding on."
I could only

seemed an
for

my

life

age,

my

The

little

time under water, yet

during which I was in desperate

with the

again raised
round.

have been a

evil spirits of the

Mekong, before

gunwale with water,

in the pool below the rapids.

The doctor and Hannibal were shouting

Tom from

of the

noble

The Shan

But where was Tom,

The rope by which

before

Mekong sucked him down

great

after

old Hannibal

saw

Tom ?

lump

rose in

my

Had

the cruel flood

and was that warm,

in

its

throat,

unfathomed

and the scene

till I felt as if I could lose my own hold

my dear companion. A shout from trusty
recalled me to my senses.
He had struck

swam round me
and sink

guide, also, I

gallant, honest

heart already growing cold

and

saw him clinging a few seconds

was hanging limp beside me.

abysses?

my name

the other side of the craft, and I was

able feebly to respond.

near me.

head above the surface and looked

boat, full almost to the

was turning slowly round

that of

it

conflict

PERILS BY WATER.

150

out from the boat, and was making his

strokes towards the foot of the
direction, I

as he was,

was with great

made headway through the

all

difficulty

dived.

for

Hannibal

and

spot,

we waited

We

time in vain.

still

Striving with

our power to prevent the boat from drifting

from the

an

Powerful

surface currents

At length he

stronger undertow.

itself

and again disappeared.

it

vigorous

Looking in that

thought a dark object showed

instant in an eddy,

swimmer

way by

falls.

away

breathlessly, but for a long

way

were giving

to despair,

when

the black woolly head of Hannibal emerged some distance

below

us.

He seemed

to be supporting something,

he gave a signal for help.

wan had

fish

able to retain

my

by short rapid
hold

his

way through

strokes.

Tom was

The guide had

hoped, alive.

could reply, Yung-

by

bore us of

its

his

own

the

was barely

unconscious, but,

relieved Hannibal of

was completely

the care of him, for the worthy negro

exhausted

but the doctor cleverly guided

the boat toward the group.

we

we

and was making

left us,

water like a

Before

and

exertions.

Fortunately the stream

accord behind the shelter of a big

rock,

and we managed to scramble on

care

was

given, of course, to

exquisite pleasure, after a

shore.

Our

first

Tom, and we had the

few minutes, of seeing him

open his eyes, look round on us in a bewildered way,

and then, with a

ask

"

faint smile

and a gleam

which of us had fished him up."

of his old fun,

PERILS BY WATER.

We
we

had barely strength

to secure our boat

down on

cast ourselves

161

and then

the rocks, supperless, and

without troubling ourselves to look for a softer resting-

humbly thankful that we had

place,

such terrible

peril.

referring to the

In that

come

The sun was only

safe out of

setting,

and on

we found that only

we entered the
time we calculated that we had run
doctor's

thirty-five minutes

gorge.

all

w^atch

had elapsed

since

seven or eight miles, and descended nearly a hundred

feet.

We

questioned the doctor whether he had ever shot

so dangerous a passage in his canoeing experiences in the

Hudson Bay
had

"

country.

He was

not sure but that he

but never," he added, pointing to our boat,

so clumsy a tub as that."

:>

" in

CHAPTER

XIII.

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

HEN

awakened next mornine:

&

terribly battered

and bruised

ribs

was in a

state.

slept the sleep of exhaustion,

felt

had

and had not

my

the sharp corners of the stones digging into

and

" small

the

my

of

back,"

attentions that the mosquitoes

paid to

my

prostrate form,

I rubbed

looked about me.

It

realize

where

arising

I was,

and

tivated.

at least

smarted for these

eyes vigorously and

falls

my

had

ears, that I

and never come up.

settled,

and

cul-

and sounds were sometimes

familiar that one might fancy he

an English landscape.

I could

clear,

There the country was open,

sights

had

we were no longer in
China we had seen beyond the

was

at least in the

The

the

insects

had a confused notion, partly

from a loud booming in

One thing
rapids.

my

noticed

was some time before

gone to the bottom of the

China

and other

and now

hours of oblivion.

or

was

so

in the midst of

Everywhere there were signs of

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

busy and

long occupation, a

at

all

The

an untrodden wilderness.
river, leaving

jungle,

people,

civilized

and a

knew the changes of summer and winter.

once we were introduced into the heart of

climate that

Now,

153

hills

drew back from the

between them and the margin room for a

marshy

in

some places and rocky in

others,

com-

posed of bamboos and other tropical plants, woven into

a dense mass by creepers and by high grass and under-

Some

growth.
thicket,

and

trees,

tall

their long

mostly palms, rose above the

plumes showed like standards and

More open

pennons above an army.

the foot of the

aught we could

All

was

wild, luxuriant, tropical.

the presence of

see,

began at

and stretched up to the summits of

hills,

the lower spurs.

forest

man had

For

never dis-

turbed this solitude,

and certainly there was no path for

him on

by

land, except

cutting a lane through the rank

The only movement was that

vegetation.

of the coppery-

coloured flood that rolled past, flecked with foam, and

the only sound was the dull roar of the cataract, that

seemed to

We

plenty of
sight.
dip.
I

rise

and

fall as

we

listened.

were not long in discovering that there was

life

Our

about, though

earliest

move was

Hannibal took a

was watching

water, while

his

it

fine

was not

visible at first

to the river brink for a

header from the bank, and

dusky body

as

it

moved through the

preparing to follow him,

when

his

face

appeared above the surface, his eyes almost starting

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

154

from

his

head with

He

terror.

climbed with extra-

ordinary alacrity upon one of the rocks that strewed the

margin, just as a long snout emerged from the stream,

and a pair

of ugly jaws,

armed with formidable

snapped viciously within a yard of him.

crocodile;

It

teeth,

was a

and we soon found that the river swarmed

with these hideous

more cautious

in

reptiles, so that

the

henceforth

and places

times

we were

selected

for

bathing.
"

No

life

"

cried the doctor, echoing a

made a minute
is

or

two

not a great deal too

"

before.

much

life for

look at Tom's face and neck.

Take

remark I had
care that there

your comfort.

am

Just

sure I could count

the marks of the stings and bites of at least a dozen

different kinds of insects, to say nothing of the leeches

that have been feasting on the parts of his nether limbs

that his tattered trousers don't cover.

them

for you, Master Wilson

There's a red pimple on

the bridge of your nose, now.

Shall I classify

Its size

and colour show-

that a soldier-ant must have been visiting you in your

dreams
" I

said

should like to classify them and dissect them too,"

Tom, looking round

mentors.

and the

"

The

rest are

flies

fiercely in search of his tor-

and ants and hornets and spiders

bad enough,

most abominable wretches.

sir,

but the leeches are the

Why,

have shifted

my

place several times, and on each occasion a score of these

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

little

are,

demons have gone

you

see,"

for

me

155

Here they

at once.

pointing to several small black creatures,

making

the thickness of a stalk of grass, that were

him with

towards
"

somersault

curious

movement,

actually tumbling like clowns on the sawdust, in their

haste to suck
"

me

dry."

They must smell the blood

of an Englishman, like

Giant Blunderbore," I suggested, picking off an intruder

which was making

"

its

way

into

my own

Talking of Blunderbore," said Tom,

boot.

" I

am

glad that

we have dropped out from among the Chinese, even

though we have fallen among leeches."
" I am not at all sure whether we will not drop into
China again as we advance," remarked the doctor " But
what has Blunderbore
"I must
penitence, "
It

there.

all

do with China

confess, sir," replied

Tom, with a look

that I felt like an ogre all the time

was very wrong,

tion to send

them

to

my

over the place.

we were

know, but I had an

foot through their houses

They were

so

inclina-

and kick
small

flimsy and toy-like, they seemed only set up, like

Sallies,'

in order to be

knocked down.

with their queer, shiny, yellow skins

of

'

and

Aunt

Then the

people,

I don't

know

whether their faces looked more comical when they

were young and smooth, or when they were old and

And

creasy.

things

oh, their

and those

funny topsy-turvy ways of doing

ridiculous pigtails

!"

and here

Tom

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

156

burst

fairly

ashamed

sling

tails,

to

my

But

me

shoulders,

and carry them

"Why, they looked

if it were we
Do you remem-

at us as

barbarians and the guys.

we met

He

stared at

you

like

an owl

he were ever

if

wiser and more learned than you."

" So, perhaps,

it

the day before

with the big glass button on his hat, and

sir,

through his great goggle spectacles, as

much

away

the young man, amusement giving

nails like birds' claws

so

off

one of the giants in the story-books.

ber that old fright of a mandarin

yesterday,

"Several times the

conceit of these people that took

my breath," continued
way to wrath.
who were the

am

a dozen of them by these pig-

my

them over

was the

laughing, in which, I

of

joined him.

to seize

castle, like

it

fit

we

to say,

idea struck

into

he was," said the doctor severely.

"And

would have been worth while having a peep through

these

Chinese spectacles.

conceit of all of us. Master

as absurd

would take down the

It

Tom.

No

doubt you look

and frightful in their eyes as they do in

yours,

and who knows whether they have not as much

reason

Do you know what

daughter say,

whom you

than himself

less ridiculous

" I

don't know," said

thought she looked

How

my

She

"

That was too bad of

said,

?"

Tom

with some

curiosity.

" I

way."

"

'

I overheard the mandarin's

seemed to think a good deal

like a devil

he looks

her," said

Tom

"

'

in

an aggrieved

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

167

"I don't know why she should have said

voice.
that."

Because their notion of ugliness includes blue eyes

"

under straight brows, a well-developed nose, and red

set

hair."

my

not red," argued Tom.

"

But

"

But that whisker

hair

is

promises

out so anxiously

to

are

looking

We

be of that hue.

must not be censorious on other

people's

and

tastes

I have no doubt that every look and move-

manners.

ment

you

which

for

of ours offended the old mandarin's sense of pro-

priety

for

he

is

one of the great

literati,

and has

all

the wisdom of the Celestials at the end of those long

If

finger-nails of his.

he had understood English, he

would have had something

your use of

and

slang,"

to say to you,

Tom, about

added the doctor, as a parting

to bring the colloquy to an end

shot,

for our frugal

breakfast, mostly plucked from the trees growing about

us,

was now

over,

and

it

was time

to think of resuming

the voyage.

The Mekong had now spread out

a mile, and was a magnificent
current.

We

stream that

river,

to a breadth of half

with a strong, deep

could hardly believe

we had found

it

was the same

contracted between precipices

and plunging over rocky ledges just above.

several

broken

times, it

is

bits of water,

true, to

career

We

had

down rough and

which a day or two ago would

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

158

have seemed dangerous, but after our

thought this mere
better able

given

to

child's

also

an overhaul as we

we
was

we had

could, plugging

and calking the seams with the tough

holes

a species of palm, which Yung-

fibres of the leaves of

wan

late experience

Our boat

encounter these passages; for

as thorough

it

up the

play.

pointed out to us, and which Dr. Eoland was of

opinion might

form an important new substance for

rope manufacture.

Indeed this portion of our journey was that in which

we had most

and opportunity for studying the

leisure

natural history of the strange lands

we were

exploring.

Dropping down-stream with the current, which bore us

on

swiftly, yet not so fast as to prevent our noting the

objects of interest
ally

on the bank, the doctor was continu-

on the outlook for new facts in botany and zoology,

up

to store

in his note-books,

astically seconded

him

in

boat voyage was full of

though

had

it

had been

so

left

us

The

their calls

but

insects that

on our arrival

and we learned from the doctor

to extract

He

discoursed

of the curious habits

that the

we became inured to

comfort and information out of miseries.

tormentors,

enthusi-

enjoyment and instruction,

also its discomforts.

in this region never

we

his researches, so

prompt in making

their attacks,

which gradually swelled

I need not say that

out almost to bursting.

and wonderful

intelligence of our

pointing out to us a huge spider, lurking at

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

159

the bottom of an ingeniously-constructed trap, closed

a hinged door, that he held half open with his

by

foot,

while he enticed his unwary prey within by a sweet

fluid

with which his den was smeared

or a long train

and marching

of ants, each bearing a fragment of leaf,

in military order, under the direction of their generals,

colonels,

and

captains,

their antennae

who gave

lower

those of

to

orders

by a touch

ranks, while

of

their

scouting parties were thrown out in front, in order to

give warning of danger.
of ants that lived

pelling their

by

He showed

and slave-hunting, com-

fighting

weaker brethren

us other varieties

and build

to quarry

for

them, and even to notice the baby-ants and feed the

lazy old tyrants of parents
actually kept

"

dairy cattle

"

and

still

little

other kinds that

green insects that

sucked the juices of the wood and leaves, and

regularly "

milked

"

and watched by

who were

their masters.

hundred things that would have escaped our attention, in

the water,

among

the grass, and on the trees, were pointed

out to us by our kind teacher and friend.

Little bits of

bark, or lichen, or stick turned out, on being examined,

to be beetles, or bees, or locusts, or spiders

and withered

leaves,

and crumpled

on being approached, spread gor-

geous wings of purple,

scarlet,

and

blue,

and

sailed

away

in the shape of butterflies, or disappeared out of view

with a spring that betrayed them to be crickets in

guise.

dis-

Often the doctor made us land, in order that he

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

160

might possess himself of some new or peculiar orchid or

fern, growing, perhaps, far out

on some overhanging branch;

and no conservatory could have shown a more brilliant show

of blossom, fruit,

We

had

not

for,

speak

of

the

that

thorns

stabbed

and sharp-edged blades that cut

among the

lurking

leaves,

and

it

w^as

like

like razors,

were scorpions and other venomous

there

did.

to be cautious, however, in our botanizing

to

poniards,

and foliage than our boat sometimes

creatures

difficult to dis-

tinguish a serpent coiled round the stem of a tree from

the twisting roots and branches of the vines and other

creepers.

In the river we had plenty of opportunity for

studying the water-tortoises and snakes

latter beautifully-marked slimy things

their heads at the surface

The

the flesh creep.

and we could not

them

and the

crocodiles

were as big as young

ever, to

watch the

membraneous

we

swam with

were only too

It

was

dragon-lizard," as

flippers like wings,

familiar,

powder and shot on

did not mind, even

alligators.

little "

that

when they

curious,
it

saw plenty

hornbills, pigeons,

harsh

voices

of

how-

spread

its

and sprang nimbly from

branch to branch in chase of the insects on which

We

of the

with a slippery ease that made

afford to waste

lizards

some

noisy troops

and other birds

of

parrots,

it fed.

macaws,

of gorgeous colour

and

and the monkeys were such constant

attendants upon us at our halts, and kept up so incessant

a chattering, that they soon became a nuisance.

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

As

to the nobler forest animals,

The doctor shot two

of them.

we

161

much
we only
breaking his way
did not see

but

fine deer,

got a distant sight of a rhinoceros

through the bamboos in a great hurry to get out of our

sight.

with a magnificent pair of horns, w^ho

buffalo,

was enjoying himself by rolling

of us as

we were

stalking him,

worth while wasting one

in a long shot.

muddy pool, got wind

and we did not think it

in a

of our

few remaining cartridges

" bag,"

upon might have yielded something

to our

happened that our larder was

the time

full at

yielded us several varieties of capital fish

no

On

the other hand,

but

it

the river

and we had
mere love

desire to kill these splendid creatures for the

of slaughter.

we came

troop of wild elephants that

we would

gladly have

put a bullet through any tiger or leopard had they

come our way, but they prudently kept out

of sight,

though I daresay the jungle contained many of these

big cats."

We were
not, as

not long in discovering that the country was

we had

At the

at first supposed, uninhabited.

close of our second

day on the

river

we

sighted a

little

thatched hut, some distance back from the river bank,

and

set

on high

piles,

apparently to preserve

the floods, while a small skiff

Not knowing what

reception

care to avoid notice, passing

shelter of

(690)

a wooded

island,

11

it

was drawn up on

we might
down the

have,

during
shore.

we took

stream under

and camping on another

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

162

Next day we came upon

rocky island for the night.

more

some of them standing

huts,

solitary

on their

perches in the marsh, like long-legged herons, while

others were

drawn together

natives were out

upon the

with spear and angle

came

river in their boats fishing

and

after

The men were almost

chests

The

villages.

much

parleying

we

an understanding, and ventured to pay them a

to

visit.

their

into little

and

legs

manner

entirely naked, but their

were tattooed in elaborate patterns, and

of wearing their hair in a

round tuft on

the crown of the head, the rest being shaven, was pro-

bably considered

The women

by them ornamental.

and were adorned

wore bright-coloured pieces of

cloth,

with a profusion of beads and

silver anklets, bracelets,

and

necklaces.

were

"We

soon

good

these simple wild people of the river,

different

friends

with

who were very

from the ferocious savages who had hunted us

among the mountains.

They were timid and slow-

minded, and looked at

the marvels

all

with

our guns, for instance,

we had with

the large
doctor,

a kind of stupid wonder,

down as the
magic.
Nothing took their fancy so much as
nails in the soles of the boots worn by the

contenting themselves with setting them

results of

us,

all

and they got the notion that here lay the charm

by which we were able

things that

we showed

to do all the incomprehensible

them.

One afternoon when our

chief

had

lain

down, after

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

a hard forenoon's work,

for a siesta,

168

on the bamboo

bench in one of the huts, while we rested under a huge

banyan

up

tree close by,

Hannibal startled us by jumping

declaring, in a great fright, that

niggahs

steal into the shanty.

"

he had seen

We

"

foah

thought he must

have been dreaming, but hurried with him to the en-

and there sure enough was a group of natives

trance,

around the
other,

sleeping doctor, pointing out to each

still

with awe and admiration, the rows of nails in the

stout shoes, while one stooped

face,

down

and, with a scared

ventured to scrape one of the mysterious objects

with his

nail.

shout from Hannibal caused him and

his companions to spring almost to the roof of the hut,

and

their

dismay

tufts

hair to stand

of

almost

erect

with

while the doctor sat up, and rubbing his eyes,

asked what

was

it

all

about.

Hannibal was terribly

indignant at the liberty that had been taken with his

master's person

Our naked

but the latter only laughed.

hosts were not savages in the strict sense

of the word, for around their houses were some plots of

cultivated ground,
poultry.

and they reared large numbers of

After their lights, too, they were followers of

the faith of

Buddha

and near each

village there

was

a wretched shed, open on three sides to the winds of

heaven, with a patch of reed thatch hanging over

for a " pagoda.'*

it

like

we found was their apology

Further down the stream we reached

a ragged umbrella, and this

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

164

structures

more worthy of the name, and the surround-

ings changed again as rapidly as in a transformation

up the heights among the woods

were

laid out in terraces,

beneath was occupied by

the lower slopes

where sugar, tobacco,

and the poppy plant were grown

and the

paddy

"

fields,"

watered by innumerable canals and

willows, poplars,

all

fields

were

shaven and

yellow grain,

full

walls

and pigs grubbed

rice-harvest

was now

busy, dapper

of

of

gathering

little

in

the

and heaping the straw into stacks

like

our hayricks at home.

doctor's

impossible ani-

painted

the

The

in the courtyard around.

figures,

Little

and here and there a wide-spreading

from beneath which

and the

ground

flat

divided and

and they were lined with

cottages peeped, while poultry pecked

ripe,

cotton,

ditches.

bridges, carved with quaint figures of

mals, crossed these streams,

banyan,

willow

Towers of stone and pagoda roofs glimmered

pattern."
far

"

Again the landscape became of the

scene.

pig-tailed,

It actually

prophecy had come

true,

seemed as

if

the

and that we were

slipping back into China.

These busy harvesters, however, were not Chinese,

though they had borrowed most of their

civilization

from the Flowery Land, and we were now where the

word

of the imperial ruler of

Some tame

elephants that

large burdens,

and groups

Pekin had

moved
of

to

and

little

fro,

hump-backed

weight.

carrying

cattle, re-

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

minded one

India

of

than

rather

China.

looking pyramids of stone, ending in a

called pictures

we had

a district of the secluded

is

We

while

China,

of

title

the

spire, that re-

were actually in

Shan State

claimed by the King of

dominions, though his

Strange-

seen of Burmese and Siamese

buildings, rose near the villages.

which

166

is

Kiang-mai,

of

Burmah

as part of his

disputed by the Emperor

natives

are

generally

able

to

maintain their independence against both these potentates.

we got from Yung-wan, who was

and I believe
quite at home among his countrymen
that it was through his influence that we were able to
come and go unmolested, and received so much kindness.
This information

We

soon saw a hundred points of distinction between

them and the Chinese.

and more gaudy in
of feature

They were gayer

taste ; and, apart

from the

and language, we could at once

man among

in

manner

differences

tell

a China-

a group of marketing people by his plain

dark-blue or white raiment, contrasted with the gorgeous

hues of crimson, purple, and green worn by the Shan

ladies
priests,

and gentlemen.

As

for the " phoonghees,"

their flame-coloured robes almost

with their splendour.

blinded

or

one

The Shans were more bold and

open in speech, and, we thought, walked with a freer and

more manly

gait.

and more cleanly in

They seemed
their persons

also

more

truthful,

and houses, than the

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

166

which

Celestials,

not saying

is

and good-natured, which

It

may be

from our
people

much

and as hospitable

saying a great deal.

that this favourable impression arose simply

understand and sympathize with the

efforts to

had made us thoroughly ashamed

for the doctor

of our prejudices,
felt in

is

and

Tom

admitted that he had not

the least degree a return of his " ogrish " humour.

However

that

may

be,

we had

we

to be grateful for the kindness

when we

certainly

much

reason

received at a time

stood sorely in need of attention

for each of

us had a touch of fever, as a result of our sojourn in

the marshes, and

we were

detained for over a

one of the largest of the Shan

size

villages,

week

which from

We

might almost have been called a town.

in
its

chafed

at the delay, to the great surprise of our entertainers,

who had no
Orientals,

not

ill

idea of the value of time, and, like other

But the

were never in a hurry.

spent, for

we had an

interval

was

opportunity of studying

the curious collection of people of different races that

gathered every third day to market, and which embraced

not only
copper,

many

salt,

but Chinese traders in

tribes of Shans,

and precious stones

sleepy-eyed Laotians,

bringing fruits and spices from the regions further

the river

Burmese

pedlers,

Birmingham hardware

Anam, and savages

pattern of tattoo.

down

with Manchester prints and

for sale

natives of

in all stages of nakedness

Siam and
and every

SWAMPS, SHANS, AND SAVAGES.

From

this point,

Yung-wan informed

167

us, there

was a

route that would bring us to Mandalay, or to the British

possessions on the

We

Lower Irrawady.

had engaged a

crew of canoemen to carry us up a tributary which here

falls into

the Mekong.

found, to start until

was

It

impossible, however,

we had taken

we

part in the great

annual festival in celebration of the ingathering of the

rice-harvest.

I will not venture to describe the barbaric

how

the flags flaunted, and the gongs crashed,

scene,

and the trumpets blared

revelled,

flowers,

how

the adults feasted and

and the young people danced and scattered

and the phoonghees scattered incense and walked

in procession, followed

by the heavy-footed elephants

bearing the emblems of the bounteous harvest.

will

my

always have a picture in

magnificent river, as

we saw

it

mind

by the

between the stems of

bamboos and the leaves of palms and other

plants, illuminated

But

of the broad,

tropical

torches of hundreds of boats

that passed backwards and forwards on

its

waters, while

the songs of the rowers reached our ears in a wild and

weird chorus.

It

mighty Mekong.
before the mists
stage of our
again,

we

was the

last

glimpse

Next morning we
had

risen

from

we had

of the

started westward,

its surface,

on the

last

weary wanderings, which would land us

hoped,

among our dear countrymen.

CHAPTER

XIY.

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

last there

seemed some prospect of our being

able for a time to " take things easy."

rest at the

ful to us

Shan

but somehow

village

we had

Our

had been very

grate-

got so accustomed to

be moving onward, that even our short halt had seemed

a deplorable waste of time.

all

bent on home, and the

Our thoughts were now

way

before us

and rough and beset by dangers.

was a new experience, and

in

two slim

for our

still

long

some respects one of the

most pleasant we had yet had.

progress

was

The canoe voyage

We

had movement and

little crafts,

propelled

by the

dexterous strokes of the native boatmen, slipped through

the water like fish

and at the same time we were

re-

lieved of the distressing toil that

had hitherto taken up

almost the whole of our energies.

Our prows were

ing westward

point-

the doctor told us, after consulting the

pocket-compass which had so often been our "guide,

philosopher,

and

friend,"

during

the journey, that

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

drawn

straight line

in the

course

169

we were pursuing

would, as nearly as he could calculate, carry us to the

shores of " Merrie England"

The thought

itself.

inspired us with a wild wish to seize the

paddles and put on a " spurt " for the old country
felt as if

we

could have flown over the

hills

and

we

forests

and waste places that intervened between us and the

friends
us,

who were no doubt

and probably had, by

But when we had made a

in paddling,

anxiously looking for news of

this time, given us

up

for lost.

practical trial of our proficiency

we were not long in discovering that we would

own comfort and the rapid progress of

best consult our

the voyage by leaving the

work

entirely in the hands of

Dr. Roland could ply a paddle

the native canoemen.

almost as skilfully as the Canadian pioneers, in whose

birch-bark canoes he had ascended and descended

a stream in the great North-West.

arm was a splendid

ally

pull" was required.

when

whom we had

have no more

flesh

Hannibal's powerful

a long pull and a strong

But each had to admit that he

was beaten hollow by the

canoemen

"

many

under-sized,

spindle-legged

who seemed to
than would make a

engaged, and

on their bones

respectable supper for one of the crocodiles that eyed us

greedily from the water.

to this
lives

work from

infancy,

These

men had been

and had passed

on the rivers and creeks.

their

inured

whole

Their paddles struck

the water with a finely-measured beat, while each sinew

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

170

of their muscular frames,

which were almost

free

from

the encumbrance of clothes, stood out like whip-cord.

Away we skimmed
making

like

swallows up-stream,

then,

foam

excellent " time," while a beaded line of

streamed away in our wake, and the

"

whish" of the

canoes, as they sped through the water, sounded like

an

accompaniment to the musical but rather monotonous

In the leading boat was

chant sung by our boatmen.

him Yung-wan and myself

the doctor, and with

little

the

Shan guide eagerly explaining and answering the

questions of our chief as to the nature of the country

Tom and

ahead.

The weather continued

canoe.

warm

Hannibal were in charge of the second

in the

sidered pleasant picnicking at

seasoned

now

delightful

home

blister our faces

hue than they already

bore.

but

we had got

warmth and

to extremes of

sun could hardly

was one

We

hills for

or

which we were bound,

sit

and the

to a darker

and approach

and the rain and

two on the eastern

could therefore

well

of our chief inducements in

storms, which were certain to overtake us

range of

too

There were few indications

hurrying out of this country

week

cold,

and hands

of that break-up of the harvest weather

of winter which

for another

perhaps

mid-day hours for what would be con-

in our boats

if

we

hail

waited

side of the great

still

held

off.

and enjoy the

grand panorama which passed before us on either bank of

the stream, and watch leisurely the strange aspects of

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

revealed

The tributary

to us.

we were voyaging would

important stream

that not one of the

sulted so

much

in Europe be considered an

yet on our return

maps

home we found

of this country

which we con-

The French

Commander Lagr^e had

we found was

called the

the main

left

some distance below the point where

which
;

of the

as indicated its existence.

expedition under
river

it

new bend of the river

Mekong on which

in Further India which every

life

171

this affluent

Me-Hem

who have penetrated a

known region had also
from that we were now
The current

little

way

into this almost un-

followed quite a different line

pursuing.

in these

smooth, and pretty free

lower reaches was deep and

mud

from sand and

though occasionally our rowers had to exercise

to avoid running

skill

on

fishing.

Their

across from
;

bank

make

tiny canoes were

their

their living

by

continually darting

with the cur-

and judging from the quantities of queer-looking,

which we saw lying at the bot-

of the boats, they appeared to

sport

banks,

all

of the inhabi-

to bank, or floating past us

brilliantly-coloured fish

tom

Many

shoals.

tants on its banks appeared to

rent

entered

and Captain M'Leod and the other English travellers

meet with excellent

as likewise did the vast flocks of cranes, pelicans,

ibises,

and other

swam

about us in search of prey.

birds, that

congregated on the trees or

care to supply ourselves with rice

Though we had taken

and other

stores for

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STKEAM.

172

the journey, at the village below,

we

did not disdain to

vary our fare by occasionally making a meal of the

slimy-looking finny creatures which the hospitable fisher-

men

ofiered to us

when we

or of a brace of wild ducks,

could secure that luxury without a waste of ammunition.

But

must confess that there was no

much

relished so

as a broiled

venerable-looking native

many salaams ; and

great, ugly,

warty

haunch of iguana, which a

headman presented

our sensations

same evening pointed out

lizards,

the signs

all

when

to us with

the doctor the

to us,

on a branch, one of the

whose

rich,

found so appetizing, were decidedly

From

we saw around

by no means the only

us,

a numerous

distance back from the river-bank

and heavy
from

it.

and

fish-

or even the chief em-

The land

ployment of the population.

we had

juicy flesh

" queer."

population occupied this portion of the valley

ing was

which we

tid-bit

crops, chiefly of rice,

for a considerable

was cleared

of forest,

had just been reaped

Native hamlets, pagodas, and sharp-pointed

pyramids, which are so puzzling a feature of the architecture of this country, peeped out from the midst of
fine groves of nut-bearing

and there were houses

and other

fruit trees.

and bath-houses opening out upon the river

seats of

Burmese mandarins, Shan

Chinese merchants.

be seen, and

Here

of larger dimensions, with gardens

doubtless the

chieftains, or

wealthy

Flocks of well-fed cattle were to

now and then a

domesticated elephant

but

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

the

work

of the

173

farm here, as in British India, seemed

to be chiefly performed

passed us laden with

by the

rice,

Large boats

buffalo.

maize, buckwheat, and other

kinds of grain, or with piled-up cargoes of vegetables

and

fruit for the

these vessels

markets on the Mekong.

we saw Burmese

In some of

pedlers seated

by

their

packages of cloth, crockery, and hardware goods, for

the most part, probably, of English manufacture, which

they were conveying down-stream, in order to be ex-

changed for the products of China and the Shan countries.

I noticed with surprise

travelling

an

merchants

guarded with peculiar

empty

pale-ale bottle

the sight of an object so

in the old country,

the-way a

It

care.

rigid of water-drinkers

among

and

was none other than an

" I

There

common

perhaps

had he come upon

locality as the valley of the

is

no accounting

too

it

common

in so out-of-

Mekong.

it.

for

tastes,"

he replied.

understand that empty beer bottles have been the

'rage' for

some time among the nobility and gentry of

this part of the world.

is

even the most

I think that

would have hailed with delight

I questioned Dr. Roland about

"

the wares of these

which seemed to be

article

No

great man's reception-room

thought properly furnished unless a pint bottle

up on the

place of honour.

All the shrines of

round about here have secured at

least

familiar specimens of English glass-work.

is

stuck

Buddha

one of these

The

chief of

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

174

we

the Shan principality through which

has lately been

set of

made happy by being

a dozen of these

state,

able to complete a

which are ranged in a

bottles,

behind his throne of

line

are travelling

under the great brazen

gongs and the elephants* tusks which he esteems, next to

Bass's labels, as

among

possessions.

seems that these bottles and labels are

It

his

most precious and wonderful

believed here to represent the highest efforts of art as

practised

among our benighted countrymen, and

executed

with

infinite

to be

and with the aid of

labour

magic."
"

What

ridiculous

people

What

a funny craze

!"

I remarked.

"Did you ever hear

'china craze' at

of the

home?"
" I

asked the doctor, with some sarcasm in his tone.

however

forgot,

there

one heirloom belonging

is

to

the prince which he values more even than his beer

bottles.

gem.

He is
On the

said to be the possessor of a magnificent

question whether

is

it

a diamond, or a

ruby, or an amethyst, or a sapphire, authorities differ

but

all

agree that

it is

a jewel which has no peer in size

or in brilliancy in these parts.

cealed

the
it

is

King

kept a profound
of

The

secret.

place where

Burmah, got an inkling

would not be long

it is

con-

If the prince's suzerain,

of its w^hereabouts,

in changing hands, for that despot

lays claim to all the precious stones that are found in his

dominions.

Kumour

has

it

that he would barter even

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

his white elephant

which

175

you know has an

official

rank in the state only second to the king himself

for

the Prince of Kiang-tong's jewel."

"Do you
asked
"
"

think there

is

any truth

in the story?"

I.

That

There

more than

is

is

can say," rejoined Dr. Roland.

nothing impossible about

it,

and the country

we

are about to enter has been famous in

its

abundance in precious

wan, from

whom

of

or,

have

much about

indeed, to talk at all on the subject

diamonds and diamond-mines.

restlessly all the time

afraid

Yung-

of the information I

given you, but he seemed disinclined to say

the big brilliant,

ages for

I questioned

stones.

had most

all

we were

somebody might overhear

He

peeped about him

speaking, as

if

he were

I suspect that he

us.

has got into trouble at one time or other about smuggling jewels, and

is

him and rake up

his old fault.

afraid that

some one

They

tell

will recognize

me

that these

Burmese packmen often carry much more valuable wares

across the mountains than Manchester cottons, or even

empty Bass and porter

bottles

tiny

little

packets con-

cealed about their persons containing gamboge, saffron,

cardamoms, sandal-wood, and other precious drugs,

who

and dyes, or

knows

some

gem

spices,

of great price

that has escaped the vigilant eyes of the Royal Proprietor

of the

Mines of Rubies and Sapphires.

the doctor,

"

But," pursued

as our dear old Scotch friend, Mr. Marshall,

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STKEAM.

176

would have

stones

visit to his

wan

wonder what he
talk

this

of

Highness of Kiang-tong

me,

tells

is

doing at this

princes

and precious

We must

neither here nor there/

'

is

said

moment, Bob

is

whose

put

Yung-

about a day's journey distant on our

We

until our next trip into Further India.

our

off

capital,

left

have no

time to spare at present to look on the glories of his

gems or

row

his

of bottles, or to listen to his

wind and

orchestra of drums, gongs, cymbals,

As

struments, and Chinese swivel-guns.

for our friends

the Burmese pack-merchants, I suppose you

makes

their presence here

" Because," said

I,

" it

most

grand

string in-

know what

significant to us

shows that there

is

a track in

this direction leading to British territory."

my patron rejoined

" Yes,"

"
;

and a well-beaten one ap-

I regard the portion of our route

parently.

we

are

now

entering on as a very important and interesting one.

The dividing chain between the Mekong and the Salwen

Biver has never been crossed by any European in the
latitude

where we now

Thibet, where
pore,

we

It is a spur

are.

the Himalaya, and runs

crossed

down almost
it

off

by

a few weeks back, to Singa-

on the Strait of Malacca.

as I said

thrown

continuously from

It

is

almost unexplored,

but you can see that a considerable trade

is

carried over its passes between the countries to the east

and those on
British

its

western

side.

An

commerce might be found

excellent opening for

here.

You remember

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

the strange-looking

brown masses that you saw exposed

in the bazaar on the river, and which

" I fancied it

did not look at

!"

might be cheese,
it closely,

because

fermented

parts here

and the

it

"

I.

tea.

in

oil,

"

bricks.'

and use

it

drier hilly

a half-fermented

The Burmese and the

as a kind of dessert.

the great treat here next to iguana

The red clay that you saw

flesb.

strict secret,

made

is

mould

is cul-

the famous stickis

their marvellous lac-ware.

of the ash of a kind of

wood found

kept
It is

in these forests.

But

still

eral

wealth that are visible on every hand.

more important,

It

There are

which the Chinese, by a process that

lac out of

Why,

Assam and

cotton and tobacco plantations, and the silk-worm

tivated.

budding planter

grown on the

It is

But

didn't appear nice."

leaf is reduced to

and packed into

natives fry
is

it

said

especially as the plant is of the

not the Chinese variety.

state,

sir,"

have made a mistake like

like you. Bob, should not

more

sold in slices

cried the doctor, highly amused.

man, that was tea

that,

was

?"

to customers

" Cheese

177

I think, are the signs of

min-

You must

have noticed how plentiful copper ornaments and imple-

ments are
copper.

the very shares of the ploughs are

of

have seen specimens of iron ore that are the

richest I ever examined.

There are also said to be mines

of gold, silver, tin, antimony,

tion the diamond-diggings."
(69C)

made

12

and cinnabar, not

to

men-

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STEEAM.

178

Though

Roland was partly

I half suspected that Dr.

poking fun at me, I own that

this talk of

hidden and

untold wealth had a strangely exciting effect on me.

had visions of us

all

returning from our travels like

Aladdin or Sinbad, with our pockets bulging out with

precious stones.
"

mines

as

betrayed
"

on

we have a look about us

we are here ?" I asked in a

for the diamond-

Couldn't

my

foolish

No, Bob," answered

my

end.

tone that I fear

and eager thoughts.

my

kind friend, laying his hand

"The 'Arabian Nights'

shoulder.

The Valley

of

Diamonds and the Enchanted Cave

My

are nowhere in this neighbourhood.

bring

you

safe

which, against

are all at an

duty

is

to

and sound through the dangers into

my

will, I

now-a-days employ a

have led you.

roc,

genii, or

As we cannot

a fiery

griffin

to

take us up by the girdle and carry us over the tops of

way on our
we have no time to spare for looking for diamonds,
There is
when we are more likely to catch fever.
something far more valuable, however, which we may
the mountains, but must plod most of the

legs,

find in the direct path of duty."

"What is that, sir?"

" What would you say if we were
'

to discover the true

trade route to China,' about which so

much has been

written for generations past, and in quest of which so

many

regularly organized expeditions have set out in

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STREAM.

vain?

179

added the doctor, returning to his

think,"

half -bantering tone, "

if

we

bring back news of two

routes to the Flowery Kingdom,

we

new

will be entitled, not

only to the thanks of the Geographical Society, but to

But here

those of the British Chambers of Commerce.

come

at last

our friends, in time to

break off this long

harangue."

The conversation had taken place

canoe in a

where

it

as

we

sat in our

reach of the river, just above a place

still

ran for a couple of hundred yards in a swift

and rather broken

ado in ascending.

current,

which we had had no

Yung- wan had gone

little

to arrange for

our taking up our quarters in a pagoda which rose close

to the river-edge,

and our crew had stretched themselves

on the bank to

rest after their exertions, leaving the

me

doctor and

in charge of the boat.

The second

which was deeper in the water than

some distance behind

get a

anxious for

little

ours,

canoe,

had

fallen

we were beginning to
appearance, we saw our com-

but just as
its

panions in the gathering evening light beginning to take

the current
will.

On

it

could hardly be called a rapid

with a

they came handsomely, the canoemen plying

and shouting

their

accustomed chorus until silenced by lack of breath.

For

their paddles with all their might,

some seconds the boat appeared

to

remain stationaiy,

the vigorous strokes of the paddlers barely enabling

to hold

its

own

a^jrainst

the violence of the stream.

it

Then

A CANOE VOYAGE UP-STKEAM.

180

we heard Tom's
and

voice endeavouring, in very

tune, I admit, to raise

slow,

and the

effect

was not what

it

would have been had the crew been British

last

for the

The measure, however,

encouragement of his boatmates.

was too

bad time

"Rule Britannia"

doubtless

At

tars.

Hannibal struck in with one of the maddest and

merriest of his " plantation dance " ditties, and the

responded to

it

as

if electrified.

"

Hand

over hand

men
"

the

boat came up, breasting the current and sending the

spray flying from

its

bows, and soon

moored beside our owru

it

was securely

CHAPTER XY;
A HALT

UNG-WAN

IN A PAGODA.

now approached with

the news

that he had arranged everything amicably

with the monks

chilly at night,

and as

it

was now quite

even in these tropical latitudes,

we

lost

no time in removing ourselves and our baggage to the paEver since leaving the Mekong we had made some

goda.

Buddhist

"

Kyoung "

or temple our halting-place for the

night,

and in every case we had received kindly entertain-

ment.

These religious houses, indeed, serve the purpose of

public inns in this country.

we found very
Thibet.

The phoonghees,

different personages

or priests,

from their brethren in

Harsh fanaticism and savage

zeal for the faith,

which, perhaps, were fostered by the bleak prospects and

biting arctic air of those lofty plateaux, did not well

accord with the soft genial clime into which

now

descended.

people,

who

them

and

These phoonghees were

allowed their vows to

if

sit

we had

lazy, easy-going

very loosely upon

they were quite capable of cheating and

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

182

had

lying, they

clearly

no mission

for persecution like

Their features and even their garb indicated

the lamas.

a milder temperament, and the very structure of the

temples

and

and

light

built of

airy, fantastically painted

bamboos neatly joined together

and gabled,

presented

the greatest possible contrast to the blind, gloomy, prison-

which the inmates of the lamis-

like cells of stone in

They were probably no

saries hide themselves.

than they should

be,

better

and many of them, no doubt, led

dissolute lives, but it could at least be said in their favour

that they did not neglect the golden virtue of hospitality.

The

phoonghee,

who now met

us

and

escorted us to our sleeping -places for the night,

was

old

chief

particularly gracious

what the aspect

sail

had led us

until

we

and communicative.

He

of the country during the last

to anticipate

that beyond this point, and

Burmah

reached the boundary of

must not expect

to find

told us

few hours'

proper,

we

any more Buddhist monasteries

with doors open to weary

The

travellers.

cultivated

land along the banks of the stream had gradually grown

narrower, and patches of virgin forest

had intervened between the

of the marshes and
ridges began to

hem

rice plantations.

in the valley

had taught us

to

throw out

That evening's experi-

that, in the

our course would no longer be one

and

Instead

down, hilly

alluvial plains lower

spurs to the banks of the stream.

ence, too,

now and then

most

of "

literal sense,

smooth

sailing."

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

The worthy

phoonghee was pleased to take

chief

great interest in our journey

presents which

little

respectful

183

due

we made

perhaps to sundry

him, not to mention the

manner which we invariably adopted towards

these spiritual guides and the symbols of their national

faith

and he concerned himself much about the lack

of intellectual

nourishment such as his order afforded, to

which we would be condemned during our sojourn among

the " savages."

It troubled us

much

was a prospect

learn that there

more, however, to

of our suffering

from

bodily hunger during the remainder of the journey

also,

that

we need no

longer expect to find

tection in the "passport

on a slip of bamboo
of

some of the

"cut

which

in

any pro-

Burmese characters

the doctor,

by the expenditure

Indian rupees, had secured

last of his

before setting out on the canoe voyage from the

who

represented the Court of Mandalay.

official

The important

question of the means of transport was then discussed in

all

its

bearings,

Yung- wan,

preter between us

and our

of course, acting as inter-

host.

It

seems that

it

was

the practice for travellers bound westward to leave the

stream at this place and hire mules, ponies, or oxen for

the transmission of themselves and their baggage across
the

passes,

under the protection of a guard.

circumstances at
peculiar.

The

Chinese

frontier

The

the present moment, however, were

fighting that

between

was going on within the

the

Imperialists

and

the

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

184

Mohammedan

insurgents had unsettled the whole region.

Large numbers of the Chinese population had

the border, which

fled across

was within about a week's march from

where we now were, and had thronged into the Shan

villages to escape the

these refugees
.

had found

shelter in the very

under whose roof we were

down within

Some

impending massacres.

of

monastery

Eumours had come

sitting.

the last day or two that the Emperor's

troops had defeated and scattered the rebel host, who,

was thought, would not unlikely

also

it

across the

flee

frontier for refuge.

This was rather disquieting news for us

wish to stumble again on Akbar

Khan in

we had no

our travels.

As

the Chinese were again bundling up their effects and

making preparations

to return to their homes,

animals were scarcely to

phoonghee also warned us

The friendly

be had.
that, if

we

baggage
old

followed the ordin-

ary bridle-route leading to Mandalay and the Irrawady,

we would be
as we reached

likely to land ourselves in trouble as soon

the territory where the

King

of

Burmah

bears absolute sway, as Englishmen were at present in

peculiarly bad odour with that

His advice was, that

we

if

monarch and

we were determined

Me-Hem

should continue to ascend the

as

we

on

foot,

after

could,

all,

and then endeavour

his subjects.
to

push on,

river as far

to cross the

mountains

who

were,

more to be trusted than a Burmese guard.

But

taking our chance of the

" savages,"

A HALT

A PAGODA.

IN

he considered that we ought to

fortably where

we were

for a

185

com-

settle ourselves

few months

peaceful times should return, and

more

until

the interval he

in

should have time to thoroughly discuss with the doctor

the question of the duration of the "sixty-four great

Cycles of Time," the vanity and misery of

and

the illustrious virtues of the great

which
^

way

topics he

hoped to convert

human

Buddha, on

life,

all of

his guest to his

own

of thinking.

Dr. Roland, of course, declined, with

of thankfulness, this courteous

many
Even

offer.

expressions
if

we had

had time to waste, I fear that the prospect of having to

listen

to

the worthy old phoonghee's long and misty

" explanations " of his religious

views would have made

us flee the hospitable roof of the kyoung, or at least

have made us often take advantage of that excellent

inscribed

among

hundred and twenty-seven

the two

Precepts of the order, which directs the

monk

preach the law to one lying down, unless sick."

settled,

however, that, as to the route

we should follow

his advice,

by Yung- wan, and

still

rule,

we

"

not to
It

was

should pursue,

which was urgently supported

more

effectually

by the discovery

that pack-animals could not be got at present for love or

for

money.

As we had again
it" for

before us the prospect of " roughing

weeks to come, we indulged ourselves next morning

with a few hours' extra

rest;

and the head of the kyoung

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

186

and

his assistants conducted us over their establishment,

pointing out with especial pride the

little

images of

marble, or jade, often with gems set in the

silver, brass,

place of eyes, the lamps, candlesticks, fans, and other

offerings presented

by the devout

among

to the pagoda,

which we were amused at observing the inevitable empty

beer bottle, a greasy tobacco pouch that had probably

found

way

its

sailor's

pocket,

European

and other equally humble and vulgar

More

articles.

interesting to us

where we found a goodly

ings,

some

to the shores of Further India in

was the

library,

collection of the sacred writ-

mostly written in the ancient Pali language, intro-

duced hither, with the

religion,

from Ceylon, and inscribed

on palm

leaves, ivory tablets, or plates of copper,

together

by

cords.

bound

There were other manuscripts, from

which Dr. Roland was, by great favour, allowed to make

extracts
lads,

and

notes.

By-and-by a troop

with shaven heads,

for these

filed in

of

demure

for their daily lessons

kyoungs are the public schools as well as the

our departure.

and we took
monks
accompanied
The yellow-robed

places of entertainment in these countries

us to the river-bank, and warmly bade us farewell

we

little

parted from them with a

and

much more kindly feeling

and faith than we had

tovfards the Buddhist priesthood

acquired in the highlands of Thibet.

Again
its

afloat

on the stream, we soon discovered that

character and the appearance

of

the surrounding

A HALT

IN

A PAGODA.

From a

country were rapidly changinor.

navigable river,

187

slow-flowing,

was becoming a brawling mountain

it

torrent; and the banks, no longer level

were overhung by high

and

cultivated,

and dense masses of

cliffs

forest.

water were found at intervals, but these

Still reaches of

were becoming more

There was yet plenty of

rare.

water for our canoes, but our upward course became a

Often

strenuous, imremitting struggle with the current.

we

had to land, and with ropes drag our canoes

main

force

up some

piece of rushing, broken water

the paddlers could not face

and sometimes

it

by

which

was found

necessary to haul our light craft on shore, and carry

them bodily

to the

smoother water above the rapids.

This was not an easy task

stream was uncovered,

of rock,

and where the

water's edge,

it

was next

humble

By

their features

and

whom

where the bed of the

to impossible to cut

and trample

jungle and high grass.

Now

a native hut or two, of very

construction, surrounded

recognized the owners

of

for

forest approached close to the

way through the dense

and then we came upon
a

was strewn with great masses

it

by a small

dress, or rather

want

clearing.

of dress,

we

of these shanties as the " savages"

the phoonghees had given us so unfavourable

an account.

But we found them

and perhaps, as

is

mild, inoffensive people

the case elsewhere, they are regarded

as barbarians merely for the reason that they are of alien

race

and customs.

As Yung-wan did not understand

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

188

we did not profit from their counsels so

we might have done but we gathered from

their dialect,

much

as

their gestures that there

was danger about

whether

from man or from wild beasts we could not make out

and

that

we

should keep a

watch against sur-

strict

prise.

The country grew more wild and broken, and

more

The

beautiful.

forest

us

in,

the

tall

around us especially became

Where high

of grander proportions.

also

trees rose like

cliffs

did not

hem

a wall on either hand,

shutting out the sky, except where the course of the

stream opened up before us a

vista,

which frequently

revealed glimpses of the lofty, saw-like peaks of the

mountain mass to which we were bound, and which now

seemed wonderfully

close at hand.

Or

might compare

the towering trunks and overhanging foliage of these

noble trees to the columns and roof of a stately and

solemn cathedral

aisle.

Only here everything was

of

Nature's workmanship, and she displayed a variety of

form and gorgeousness of colouring in her work which

man

cannot hope to approach.

The stems and branches

of the trees were draped with the most beautiful mosses

and

ferns.

while

Some were

we saw

of tiny

and

delicate structure,

specimens of a kind of "staghorn" fern,

whose fronds were four or

five feet in length.

Magnifi-

cent orchids also attached themselves to the bark

is

and

it

impossible to describe the richness and brilliancy of the

A HALT IN A PAGODA.
tints displayed

orders

of

by

this

flowering

189

the most splendid of

High

plants.

aloft,

the

all

where the

sunlight glimmered on the tops of the monarchs of the

forest,

many

species of tropical birds fluttered about

and

repeated their calls to each other, the grating harshness

of their notes being strangely in contrast with their

gorgeous feathers.

Sometimes a

little

sun-bird or some

other bright-plumaged creature would dart

an

insect into the

gleam of

its crest

gloom of the

down

after

forest below, the metallic

and throat shining

like a spark in the

Troops of monkeys also gambolled about at

darkness.

a safe elevation, and seemed to take immense interest

in our movements, leaping along

by our

sides,

from branch to branch

and occasionally scurrying down the trunks

in order to take a nearer

view of the intruders through

the leaves or between the rocks.

The

slightest gesture

on our part sent these scouts darting like lightning up

again

among

the higher

their mates in

branches, where they joined

angry screaming, chattering, and expostu-

lating, which, I daresay, if it could

have been interpreted,

would have made us heartily ashamed

of our conduct.

ground told us

monkey

The heavy thud

that, if

we were

to venture

objections to our presence

into our stupid

Radiant

human

butterflies,

of the impropriety

of a large nut

skulls in a

on the

on shore, the

would be hammered
more impressive way.

with the most elegantly formed

wings and lovely markings, fluttered over the stream, or

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

190

hovered from flower to flower on the banks.

In the

evening, moths that rivalled their noonday-loving brethren

came forth

in beauty

and the burnished, scaly coats of

innumerable species of insects of the beetle tribe fairly

Nowhere had we seen

blazed in the shadow.

tropical

we

nature under such alluring aspects, and never had

.had such opportunity of adding to our knowledge.
alas

we

But,

No

could only gaze longingly and pass on.

time could

now

collecting

and we did not know what unseen dangers

be spared for botanizing or for insect-

might be lurking for us in the

forcing our
energies

way

The labour

thicket.

of

up-stream occupied almost our whole

and the touches

from which each

of fever

of

us suffered also impaired our enjoyment of the scenery.

"

Our canoes

brought up

"

in

little

pool in the

stream, where the deep reach of water was surrounded

by

steep

cliffs

screened

by masses

of vegetation so dense

that only here and there the dark rock revealed itself

behind the curtain of green.

them bearing

fruit, others

Graceful trees,

many

of

covered with blossom, grew in

the most inaccessible places, and their leaves and branches

were

reflected in the

ing-plants crept

calm surface of the

pool.

Climb-

and wound themselves everywhere, and

wove the whole into one matted web of greenery.

lovelier spot

we

we had

not yet reached in our travels

rested a little to enjoy the scene,

place suitable, decided to

camp here

A
and

and finding the

for the night.

A HALT
"

IN A PAGODA.

Wouldn't they give us something

191

if

we

could carry

down in Kew Gardens ?

remarked Tom admiringly. " Why, it would take the
scientific fellows weeks, I suppose, to classify the new
plants.
And wouldn't stay-at-home folks stare ? They
off this scene bodily

and

set it

have no notion of the splendid things that there are in the

world, and they won't believe us
"

And

wouldn't

we

when we tell about them."

give something for a glimpse, even

for a second or two, of the sights that every

day meet

the eyes of those 'stay-at-home' folks that you speak of

so scornfully ? " asked Dr. Roland.

" I

am

sure that for

a sprig of hawthorn, for the scent of an English meadow

with

daisies

and buttercups, or

side covered with gorse

for a sight of a breezy hill-

and fragrant with heather and

thyme, you would gladly surrender

blaze of green

Hannibal,

and

gold,

if

all

this gorgeous

not even your supper."

who was engaged

in preparing our well-

earned meal, by dexterously cooking over the embers a

couple of jimgle-fowl, looked up and shook his head.

But Tom and

I clapped our

hands approvingly

and the

doctor proceeded,
"

These gaudy hussies of flowers that stare at

vis

so

impudently are no more to be compared with the shy,

sweet wildings at home than the croaking, screaming
dandies of parrots overhead are to be likened to our
larks or thrushes; ay,

Tom,

or

own

your mandarin's daughter

to one of the girls of our tight little island."

A HALT IN A PAGODA.

192
" I

" that

have often wished myself," said Tom,

we

might come across a good honest nettle or bramble.

Still, sir,

you must allow that

very grand and

this is

beautiful."
"

to

Very beautiful

my

mind

is

are not so badly off after

Hannibal with our fowls done to a turn.

will find these as palatable as if they

poultry

"

though

freshness and sweetness and simplicity are

Come; we

best.

indeed," returned the doctor

which
and

Here

all.

I think

we

were home-grown

are supposed to be the descendants of

this wild breed

to have quite a

'

gamey' flavour in

addition."

Yung- wan, who had been absent

now

for a couple of hours,

approached, nimbly making his

way towards

us

through the undergrowth and over the rocks.

He had

been

he had

out

on

shown himself
us, at

the

so skilled,

a distance of

was a

scouting

duty in which

and he reported that above

little

more than a quarter of a

mile,

village inhabited

by Shans and Danoos, a

tribe

speaking a broken dialect of Burmese.

reconnoitring, he

After carefully

had ascertained that the inhabitants

were peaceable and well-disposed, and he had arranged

with the headman for our obtaining quarters for the
night.

Having

finished

our meal,

stream, and reached the

Just a

week had

we again proceeded up-

village as night

elapsed since

we had

was

left

closing in.

the Mekong.

CHAPTER

XVI.

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

slept soundly

on the hard matting spread for

us in the guest-chamber of the headman's

house

The

astir.

that

first

but next

thing that was

we must now

made

early-

plain to us,

was

bid adieu for the time to our canoeing

For the

experiences.

morning we were

last

stage

two the

or

river-

journey had seemed to us rather more toilsome and

Where we were not

troublesome than a march by land.

straining against the current,

we were

and baggage over stock and stone

thorough

brier."

And

briers for the length

the whole,

we were

this point, it

year to

The

make any

"

thorough bush,

such bushes for denseness, and

and sharpness of

their thorns

On

progress

at this season of the

by water.

where we were now resting was one of

the halting-places of the traders,

who on

their

journeying here struck the river and followed

(690)

not disappointed to find that, beyond

would be impossible

village

carrying our boats

13

its

land

banks

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

194

for

some distance on

and to Burmah.

way

their

We,

of

to the

course,

mountain passes

assumed that we

should pursue the same track, more especially as the

headman declared

known

that the only

crossing-place of

Yung-wan, however,

the range lay in this direction.

took our leader aside, and assured him that he

a

much

safer

at

this

fell

into the

Certainly the outlook in the

spot.

direction pointed out

The banks

by the guide was not very

of the little tributary,

inviting.

which was hardly larger

than a brook, were clothed with thick primeval

which looked as
foot

of

and more suitable path, which could be

reached by ascending a small stream that

Me-Hem

knew

if it

forest,

had never been trodden by human

while a well-defined path led up the main valley,

and the wood there appeared

The

penetrable.

to be

doctor, however,

much more

dence in our guide's faithfulness and

of refugee bandits

and

rebels

more

definite form.

skill.

confi-

The

stories

from Chinese territory

having sought shelter in this wild

to us in

thin and

had complete

district

were repeated

They were supposed

to be

lying in wait to pounce upon any party venturesome

enough to attempt to

cross the

days no one had dared to

considered,

we thought

it

make

pass,

and for several

the journey.

All things

preferable to take our chance

of being lost in the forest

and eaten up by wild

beasts,

rather than run the risk of falling again into the hands
of

Akbar Khan and

his associates.

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

The headman

195

of the village expressed great astonish-

ment when he heard

He

of our resolve.

assured us that

the jungle paths in the direction in which

to go all ended within a

we proposed

few miles of the spot where

we stood, and were only used by hunters. Nothing was

known of the forest-covered country beyond, except that
it

extended to the foot of mountains that were, quite

in-

In his view, the only alternatives were,

re-

accessible.

maining where

we

we had come.

Yung- wan, however, continued

were, or returning

and the doctor obdurate to

" local authority."

sacks

very

confident,

the arguments of the

"We shouldered our guns and knap-

light they were, as

out on such a journey

I

all

by the road whence

beseemed people setting

but the doctor's note-book, which

had rescued "under

was not forgotten

fire,"

bade

farewell to our friends of the village, and to our boat

crew,

who had proved

and plunged
It

such willing and trusty workers,

into the dark

and lonesome

was some time before the

silence

forest.

and monotony of

our surroundings began to impress themselves upon

We

us.

were rather elated at being once more our own mas-

Again we were thrown entirely on our own

ters.

sources,

and our

spirits rose as

dependent on our

whims
sue.

road.

own

legs

and

we thought
wills,

Numerous

we were

and not upon the

of a tropical torrent, for the route

Not that we had much

that

re-

we

should pur-

choice in the matter of a

paths, indeed, led through the

bamboo

A TRAMP THROUGH THE

196

FOREST.

jungle and grass immediately surrounding the village

fields

but the tracks piercing the

were hard to find and

we
left

taller

difficult to follow.

forest

beyond

It is true that

could not stray far either to the right hand or the

generally

we were 'hemmed

by walls

in

of inter-

twined stems, branches, and leaves, sometimes composed

of

saw and razor edged

grasses

and barbed thorns, so

thickly set that there hardly seemed

its

way through.

visits to

the pathway,

wind

minders

room

for a snake to

That serpents did manage to pay

we had

and we had

to

frequently unpleasant re-

keep a sharp watch

lest

we

should place a foot on some slimy poisonous wretch that,

on hearing our approach, was slowly

cover, looking all the
for

the

trailing himself into

more wicked and ugly, we thought,

rainbow sheen on his scaly hide.

greater obstacle, however,

and twisted
over which

was found

much

in the fallen branches

roots that stretched across the path,

we were

and

continually stumbling, while a cold

shudder would run through one as the thought occurred

that at last a snake had been trodden upon.

webs, as big, as

Tom

Spiders*

remarked, as " small cables "

at least, almost of the thickness of cotton thread

or

ex-

tended across the pathway, and were strong enough to

give a sharp blow
against

them

incautiously ran our noses

in the obscurity.

gigantic cobwebs
leaves

when we

we

The

proprietors of these

often noticed lurking

by the wayside, and watching,

among the

like patient fisher-

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

men, for what fortune might bring into their

197

Great,

nets.

bloated, wicked-looking ogres they looked, with bodies

as walnuts,

large

as

We

length.

had

and sprawling

little difficulty

legs six inches in

in believing the stories

that travellers have told about tiny sun-birds building

abandoned webs of these monsters.

their nests in the

Our track seemed

than by man.

elephants, rhinoceroses,

beasts

of the

little

and other bulky creatures

brought us by-and-by to the banks

It

stream whose valley

after following

the woods.
sions,

have been more trodden by wild

to

it

The

some

for

we were

ascending

and

distance, it turned again into

trees gradually

became of larger dimen-

We

and the undergrowth disappeared.

were in

the primeval forest, where the axe of the wood-cutter

We

had never sounded.

we were no

could breathe more freely, for

longer hedged in

by

grass

and jungle.

The

trodden path grew more and more faintly marked, and

at length
line

we

was

We

lost.

chose

for,

climbing-plants that
forest, like

could pursue our

in

spite

of

the

way

in

air-roots

hung around each giant

of

any
and
the

the guys and ratlins about a ship's mast,

passage seemed to be indifferently open to us in every

direction.

The mighty stems

palms and other

trees,

of

different

species

of

measuring sometimes thirty or

forty feet in girth, towered aloft to a height that strained

when we looked up. We felt mere insects in

we wound around and between these immense

our eyes
size as

A TRAMP THUOUGH THE

198

FOREST.

who had wandered

trunks, or like a party of Liliputians

into

a forest

solemn

stillness

Twilight gloom and

Brobdingnag.

of

reigned here, though a storm might be

raging without, or the sun of the tropics shining ver-

down on

tically

the thick mass of foliage overhead.

Here and there a gleam

found

of sunshine

its

way down

through the branches, like a ray from a bull's-eye lan-

on the boles and

tern, scattering bright flecks of light

of the great trees, or on the sodden, leaf-strewn

roots

ground over which we marched.

of blue

At

intervals a patch

sky might be seen overhead.

This was where

some hoary veteran

had

fallen in the ranks

roots,

and lay prostrate

of the forest

from old age and decay at the

on the ground, or hung suspended by the innumerable

lianas

and

lialines that

united

it

with the other

trees,

which, one might fancy, were in the act of lowering

their old

companion slowly into

reached one of these prostrate stems,

make a

halt for rest,

and

lovely things with which

also to
it

rough bark was a kind of

mosses,

and

ferns,

we were

glad to

examine the rare and

was generally
"

When we

grave.

its

covered.

mosaic work

The

" of lichens,

and each high branch that had caught

the sun had been

made the adopted home

of delicate

flowering parasites that would have stocked a conservatory.

Beetles

coats of mail
tions

and other boring

insects

had perforated the rotten wood

and in the midst

of our

with shiny
in all direc-

most interesting inves-

A TKAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

tigations,

we were sometimes put

199

to ignominious flight

the colonies of ants that had taken possession of the

by

decaying trunk.

Still

more unpleasant were the

atten-

which sundry black, wriggling scorpions seemed

tions

anxious to bestow on us
their quarters

checked

my

when we

disturbed them in

under the bark or the leaves

hand just in time, as

and once

was about

to examine

a beautiful object, which turned out to be the green and

spotted body of a small poisonous snake.
that

among

and colour

ino:

of

life,

full of

and we were tempted

wings like the

that

clear

the tree-tops, a hundred and fifty feet over-

was a world

head, there

was

It

birds, or

to

movement,

light,

we had

wish that

nimble limbs like the monkeys,

we might spend our time up

there instead of crawl-

throuofh the dismal shades below.

On

leaving these sunny spots, the gloom of the forest

seemed deeper than before, and the utter solitude and

sameness of the interminable vistas of trees confused and

Yung-wan, however, was perfectly in

depressed us.

He

element.
instinct,

power

picked out the easiest

we were
signs

of

He

danger

order that he might

we had

in his

haunting

being watched or tracked, however,

seemed to possess him.

for

unerring

and had apparently complete confidence

to guide us through this labyrinth.

fear that

him

way with

his

glanced suspiciously around

and often made us

make a detour back upon

come, and discover whether

we were

halt, in

the

way

being

fol-

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

200

lowed.

had

Yung- wan,

got "

to justify these precautions

certain that

it

with the

since his adventure

rebels,

Nothing occurred

ambuscades on the brain."

and, for ourselves,

we

felt

was impossible that any enemy could have

been tracking us up without revealing ere this time some

sign of his presence.

Hitherto

we had come

few

across very

of the big

game

of the region.

Plenty of foot-tracks and other signs of

elephants, tigers,

and rhinoceroses had been observed, but

we had

only caught momentary glimpses of these large

animals in the

them and

flesh.

We

for us.

This was perhaps lucky both for

had no wish

to

expend our small

remaining stock of ammunition in shooting them for

mere sport
held out,

and so long as other sources of food supply

we were

well enough satisfied that the wild

beasts should give us a " wide berth."

Now

the guide

halted at a small rivulet with steep rocky banks, which

ran like a deep gash through the

crossing-place

forest.

over the stream which

There was a

bore marks of

having been often used by the heavy forest animals.

Yung-wan

remain perfectly
about to

and made a sign

listened intently,

make

still.

Was

the mysterious

his long-expected spring

for us to
"

enemy

on us

We

hearkened attentively, but for some moments heard nothing except the rushing of the brook.

we heard

At

last

we thought

a sound of snapping branches, and the noise

soon became quite distinct.

Under Yung-wan's

direction

A TRAMP THROUGH THE

we

FOREST.

201

concealed ourselves carefully behind a mass of rocks

and shrubs near the

and awaited the

ford,

sound of breaking twigs and heavy

and now and then came a grunt

footfalls

The

issue.

drew nearer

or a trumpeting note

that alone would have told us that a troop of elephants

Soon the broad forehead of an enor-

Was approaching.

mous
in

"

air,

tusker "

His trunk was carried high

appeared.

and he proceeded deliberately and carefully to

re-

connoitre the position before advancing.

The elephant

stretched out his long proboscis to right

and

blew great clouds of steam from

Evidently he scented danger

it

with a

make

out where

it lay.

and

dissatisfied air.

perhaps, like our guide,

he was troubled in mind about ambuscades

not

left,

but

Had he known

could

that four

guns were bearing upon him at a distance of not many

yards away, he would have been ev^n more
breeze was blowing

ill

at ease.

down the ravine, and we had taken care

to ensconce ourselves to leeward of the crossing-place, so

that he could not get the " wind " of us.

his ears doubtfully,

After flapping

and taking a nervous glance around

with his small eyes, he made up his mind that the fancied
danger was a delusion.

His body emerged from out

the thicket, and as he leisurely picked his

way down

the

broken bank and across the stones formintr the bed of

the rivulet,

we had

a capital view of him.

splendid

fellow he was, standing at least ten and a half feet high,

and bearing an enormous pair

of tusks.

Close behind

A TRAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

202

him came two female

elephants,

and a young half-grown

male, and another female, with her

the rear.
passage

with

we were

privileged to see,

to

up

and we looked on

but without seeking to disturb them.

interest,

elephant by
it

baby," brought

was only a small family party whose

It

was curious

"

It

watch the attention bestowed on the baby

mother, and the anxiety she showed that

its

should keep pace with the elder members of the party.

It exhibited

some reluctance

she gently pushed

it

then carefully guided

to descend to the brook, so

from behind with her trunk, and

its

stumbling steps up the other

slope.

When

the last of this interesting group had disap-

peared into the

that

marked

forest,

and before the cracking

had ceased

their progress

resumed our march.

We

of branches

to be heard,

we

began to discover that small

streams running through deep gullies at right angles to our

course formed a feature of this forest country.
these water-courses the ground

Between

heaved up in

which became steeper and higher as we advanced.

wood here was not

so dense

ridges,

The

and high as that which we

had passed through, and presently we reached a glade

on the summit

of one of the ridges

prospect of what lay ahead.

which gave us a

The country around us had

the appearance of a tossing sea of forests, that rose in

higher and higher billows until

it

seemed to

roll itself to

the foot of a lofty precipitous mountain wall, that ex-

A TEAMP THROUGH THE FOREST.

203

tended, as far as our eyes could see, right across our path,

and was now so close at hand

to set behind
see,

it,

its

that,

with the sun beginning

shadow already

fell

on

We could

us.

where the green ocean of verdure dashed itself against

these

cliffs,

that masses and lines of trees climbed high

up among the
but above,

all

rocks, like the spray of a

looked

broken wave

" dark, substantial, black,"

in the

fast-descending twilight.

"We were too tired to discuss the problem of

formidable obstacle was to be surmounted
ourselves comfortable where

we

were, and

so

how this
we made

in

a few

minutes were sleeping the sleep of exhaustion and of a

good conscience.

more

light

The morning, perhaps, would bring

and better

counsel.

CHAPTER
THE LOST

HE

XYIi;
CITY.

morning, however, did not bring us

we

comfort that
first

all

object that caught our

the

The

could have wished.

waking eyes was

the great wall of mountains standing before us grim and

immovable.

Its aspect

was indeed changed from that

of the previous evening, for the

brightly on

its

scarred

sun was

and wrinkled

now

front.

shining

"Beaked

promontories " ran out from the main mass of rock, and
its sides

were ploughed with deep ravines.

Some

of these

might possibly afford a passage by which the crags might

be scaled, but they did not look promising at a

"I suppose

view.

first

this is the outer buttress of the

Tanen-

Toung-gyee Mountains," said the doctor, after a quiet

survey.

" I

should like to

know how Yung- wan

pro-

poses to get us across."

The guide was engaged

of inspection,
little

and we could

round

in his usual preliminary

see

him on an

elevation

distance off carefully scanning the landmarks.

some

THE LOST

CITY.

206

wonder that the Shans and Burmese should take

" I

the trouble to invent so long and ugly a name," remarked

Tom, whose
his having

at

mood was probably explained by

dissatisfied

had no breakfast.

" I

any enormity that the Chinese

commit in the matter

of

names

should not be surprised

or the Thibetans

below are easy-going, sensible people, and really

Toung-gyee'

is

would

but our friends down

Tanen-

too absurd a title to give to their principal

range of mountains."
" I

think

we might

only get over the

am

" I

afraid

ascent that

many

like

we

it,

see

we

could

answered the doctor quietly.

fact,"

that

if

is

only

the

step

first

opposite to us

and

if

in

the

there are

our muscles and our patience will be well

we

tried before

get over the name,

But why

get to the top.

this

sudden

gush of tenderness towards the Shans and the Bur-

Tom ?

mese,
state

Is it because in

your present famished

you are fondly remembering the lean chicken and

the mess of rice which

you helped

to

consume at the

headman's hospitable board yesterday morning

active

young man

of healthy appetite like

not be above breakfasting on

is

to be

had

and at

this

have

my

An

you should

when nothing

fruit,

moment

better

eye on the

very choicest fruit that the tropics can produce."

"Where ?"
other

cried

members

alacrity.

Tom, jumping

to his feet, while the

of the " expedition" also

showed sudden

THE LOST

206

The doctor pointed

tint of green

CITY.

some

to

a different

trees, of

tall

than those immediately surrounding them,

on the slope overhanging the stream below

In a

us.

few minutes, by scrambling and slipping down the steep

bank, and at the cost of sundry rents in our already

ragged clothes,

we were

standing under the shade of the

grove that had allured us from

had a

tree

stately, tapering

over

a hundred

dome

of leaves.

dusky masses

of

and surmounted by a shapely

feet,

At

The prevailing

afar.

stem rising to a height of

that great height

fruit

of

we

could descry

most tempting appearance

glimmering among the branches.

There was no need,

however, to climb so high to reach them, even

had been within our power,

for the fruit

the ground was thickly strewn with

it

to

was

the feat

ripe,

Tom

and

bronze-coloured

up a

Dr. Roland picked

globes larger than oranges.

specimen and handed

if

but no sooner had that

young hero removed the tough, leathery

rind,

and carried

a portion of the creamy pulp under his nose, preparatory

to conveying it to his stomach,

puzzled, half -disgusted

than an expression half-

came over

his features.

He

with-

drew the tempting-looking morsel from

his lips,

looked reproachfully at our leader, as

he suspected

that a practical joke

"

Eat

smell

it

and

was being played on him.

up, man," said Dr. Roland.

or the stink,

if

if

so

you choose

Tom, impelled by a keen

"

Never mind the

to consider

it."

appetite, again boldly ap-

THE LOST
proached the fruit to
tasting

his

lips

207

and immediately on

changed to one of ineffable

his expression

it,

CITY.

enjoyment.
"

is it, sir ? "

What

became anxious

asked

I,

who, with Hannibal, now

to try the experiment in

Wilson was finding such absorbing

" It is the durian,"

monarch

Tom

our friend replied, " the undisputed

I

of tropical fruits.

had no idea that

in so high a latitude as this, though

in the

which

satisfaction.

Malay Peninsula,

it

grew

common enough

it is

But try

to the south of us.

it

for yourselves."

None

of us

seemed to receive exactly the same im-

pression of the taste of this regal fruit, but all agreed

that

it

was

and

delicious

pulp, of the consistency

away
juices

in our mouths,

and

and appearance

we seemed

flavours that

it,

rich

of custard, melted

to detect all the fruity

had ever

visited

The

combined into delectable union.

about

As the

indescribable.

our palates

strangest thing

however, was the peculiar, half -fragrant, half-

putrid odour that assailed our nostrils.

was more than

satisfied,

If the palate

the nose was more than dubious

about the merits of this luscious banquet.

" Well, lads,

Has pear

what do you think

or pine-apple or peach

quintessence of sweets

" Certainly not," said

"

"

of

your breakfast

any chance with

asked the doctor.

Tom

Except in one respect,"

enthusiastically.

ventured to add.

this

THE LOST

208
"

Ah, yes

compared

think there

about
"

a bad sewer

to the stench of

it

perfumed pocket-handkerchief."

as felt through a
"I

to be sure there is that queer smell.

traveller has

CITY.

is

more

of the sewer than the

perfume

it."

Perhaps there

Bob, there

is,"

was the

"

doctor's response.

Well,

Even

nothing quite perfect in this world.

is

the durian has

weak

its

point

but after

exquisite fruit, and almost worth, as

all

it

an

is

somebody has

said,

the trouble of making a voyage to the East in order to

taste

The

it.

a handsome sum for that

your hand

London would give

rich dinner-givers in

but

it

ruddy fellow you hold

fine

in

will not endure being carried half so

far."

"

What would the bench

under this tree

" said

of

Aldermen give

Tom, waxing eloquent, as he pro-

ceeded to divest another durian of

skin.

"

his chair

The Lord Mayor

and

get into

my

my

namesake of the
if

calipee,

burnished

would leave

and exchange

ragged jacket,

if

his

he could only

I appeal to this hon-

I address you,

friend Mr. Robert Brown,

ask

and

shoes this instant.

ourable assembly.

its stiff,

himself, I believe,

his calipash

robes of scarlet for

to be sitting

sir,

and

my

learned

and the honourable and gallant

illustrious Carthaginian general

you can imagine a more tranquil

spot, or

and

a more

perfect picture of enjoyment."

The

orator

was interrupted by a rough and sudden

THE LOST
push administered by the

and the durian

yards.

CITY.

209

doctor's hand, that sent

rolling over

and over

two

for

him

or three

second after, a great round mass from the

branches overhead

with a heavy thud, and made a

fell

deep dint on the very spot where the

Had

had been

seated.

moniously

off his balance,

self-satisfied

youth

he not been thrown so uncerehe would certainly have been

stunned, perhaps seriously hurt,

by the heavy

fruit fall-

ing from so great a height on his head.

We

lost

no time in moving away from

this attractive

Yung- wan was

but rather dangerous spot.

signalling to

make a

us from the ridge above, and as he was eager to

start,

we

were, half an hour later, again trudging up-hill

and down-hill, through brake and

our

little

forest, at the heels of

guide.

Some change was now made in the direction we were

Instead of making straight for the high

pursuing.

mountains we had seen in

a

little

fore us,

front,

towards the south.

and we were soon

tired

Yung- wan

"

edged

off'*

long day's march lay be-

enough of

toiling

up the

narrow valleys of mountain streams, varied only by

stiff

climbs over hilly spurs covered with jungly forest and

down

into the stony

bed of another

Each time we

torrent.

caught a peep through the thicket of the range,

a

little

hand

it

higher and nearer

perately hard to reach.

(690)

but considering

looked on the previous evening,

If

it

it

how

loomed
close at

appeared des-

they had not seemed so solidly

X4

THE LOST

210

CITY.

planted on their foundations, one might have fancied

we pursued, and that

we were only making up on them after a long stern-chase.
We now entered a wider valley, between hills that
that the mountains were fleeing as

could be

made out

to be spurs

the main range.

Something

but for some time

we

thrown

else

off directly

by

caught our attention,

hesitated to credit our

own

eyes.

Could these chisellings on the rocks and these hewn

slabs,

forming a kind of broken causeway underfoot,

actually be signs of the presence

in the heart of

wilderness

what we had believed

But the

and handiwork of man

races that

to be

now

have neither the inclination nor the

an unexplored

inhabit this region

skill to construct

works whose remains we saw scattered about

efforts at

us.

the

Their

house architecture are represented by flimsy

huts of bamboo, bound together by ratans, or at most

wooden temples
carvings.
forest, for

for their idols, covered with grotesque

Their roads

are

mere

trails

through

the

which, probably, they were originally indebted

to elephants

and

buffaloes.

But the race who had con-

ceived and executed the vast labours with which this

lonely valley

Anak "

was strewn, must have been

of the " sons of

people with a purpose, belonging to an earlier

age and to a higher civilization than their degenerate

successors of to-day.

The doctor had

an examination

of the remains, that

on the ancient

site of

little

doubt, from

we had stumbled

a settlement of that mysterious

THE LOST

CITY.

211

Khmers, whose ruined

people, the

and temples,

cities

buried in the depths of the forests of Cambodia and

Siam, are among the chief marvels of the East.

Excited by our discovery,
spite

of the guide's

we pushed

injunctions to

rapidly on, in

The

be cautious.

causeway which we followed, though crumbling away

and broken

many

in

and shrubs growing

afforded a

had trod

places,

in

and with

long

grass

the interstices of the stones,

more smooth and easy road than any we

for

many a

long day.

The

traces of ancient

occupation and decayed grandeur grew more numerous.

Everything bore the impress of extreme antiquity

from

all

we

and

saw, no one might have visited this forsaken

spot for a thousand years or more.

of stone under foot

were worn

The massive

slabs

with the friction of water.

down
Heavy

Masses of earth and crumbling bricks had slipped

the sides of the valley and obstructed the path.

blocks of stones, which had evidently formed the foundations

still

on which the brick superstructure had been

for the

most part held their

site of

by dense masses

of thorns

works had, from

manned by

and creeping-plants.

position

their
;

and form, been

and when they were

These
built

entire,

and

the energetic race that had constructed them,

no enemy could possibly have approached

hold.

though in

the ruins was nearly obliterated

some places the

for defensive purposes

positions,

built,

There were

many

their strong-

places in the valley

and on the

THE LOST

212

hills

that confined

it

which were suited

and before scrub and

the rich

soil

CITY.

were allowed to overgrow

forest

of this district,

for cultivation,

it

must have supported a

teeming population.

Clambering over a

pile of

we came

masonry,

view of an amphitheatre of

in full

enclosing in their

cliffs,

'embrace the ruins of the " Lost City."

The

tall,

sombre

crags were beginning to cast long shadows, and beneath

them was a chaos

of

huge mounds and

walls, shattered

and tottering towers, broken monuments, and

statues that

above which
of

had been hurled from

now waved mournfully

a rank jungle vegetation.

weeds were now the only

scene,

it

These thorns and evil

traces of life in this once

and our sense

feeling

produced on our minds.

advanced into the midst of the

and

the dark plumes

and they only deepened the

desolation which

colossal

their pedestals,

ruins, our

of oppressive loneliness

of

busy
utter

As we

amazement

increased.

We

passed through long and wide courtyards, paved with

brick and stone, and strewn with fragments of beautifully

carved columns and capitals, and bas-reliefs of gods and

warriors and dancing-girls.

Leading from these were

now

dismantled and broken, and

flights of

broad

steps,

overgrown with weeds, and spacious avenues lined with

gigantic figures of

man and

beast.

Here the head of a

sculptured elephant or the grinning face of a stone tiger

or

dragon peered

out

from under

the

overhanging

THE LOST

CITY.

213

branches, and a few paces further the form of a giant

lay prone

among

short

lying beside him.

off,

the rubbish, with his great club, broken

What

struck us

much was

the contrast which the rude design and execution of

these misshaped monsters presented to the delicacy and
taste of the

covered.

ornaments with which the buildings were

Further on, confused piles of masonry, the

ruins of former palaces and temples, blocked our way.

Underneath, some of the doorways and chambers were

almost complete

but nearly

and the great blocks

and poised

all

of granite

the towers had fallen,

and ironstone were

The giant

in every conceivable position.

creepers that

grew between the

tilted

and clung and

stones,

twisted with their long roots and branches over the

buildings in every direction, like the twining bodies of
boa-constrictors,

had helped

to complete the ruin.

had been more, however, than the hand

time
if

enoraored in the

some

terrible

work

of

of destruction.

earthquake had shaken

fanes on the heads of the worshippers,

There

man and

of

It looked as

down

the sacred

and buried the

proud lords of this mysterious city under the ruins of

their palaces.

We

sought shelter in a spacious chamber in what

appeared to be the principal temple, which had risen close

beneath the brow of the rock, and resolved to delay
the
It

morrow making a

was some

close

till

examination of the ruins.

time, however, before our excitement

and

2U

THE LOST

CITY.

the strangeness of our surroundings would allow us to

sleep,

and we talked long into the

unprofitable conjectures as to

who had

they had been

tures,

and what kind of

night, chiefly

what manner

in

of people

raised these wonderful struclife

they could have led in

this secluded valley, before the mysterious calamity

had

occurred that drove them forth from the shelter of their

Cyclopean walls.
to

have

all

The

beasts of the night also seemed

awakened and

to be calling to each other

with weird bowlings and shrieks, and great bats

about our room with an eerie sound.

imagined

flitted

One could have

that the spirits of the ancient inhabitants

been aroused out of their long

sleep,

had

and were questioning

one another as to the strange visitors from the world of

the living

We
made

who had invaded

their city of the dead.

were early afoot in the morning, however, and

considerable progress in taking measurements of

We

the ruins.

elaborate than

The temple

found them even more extensive and

we had supposed on the previous evening.

which we had passed the night

especially in

had been a stupendous and beautiful

structure.

We

ascended the remains of an outer staircase of stone, and

thus getting on the top of the ruined

way with

diflaculty

we found

made our

and danger, sometimes along the

crumbling edges of walls,

halls, till

edifice,

and through vast dilapidated

ourselves close to the rock which

formed part of the precipice that girded in the

valley.

THE LOST
The other members

who

of Hannibal,

CITY.

215

of the party were a little in front

lingered

behind to peep into some

dark corridors that attracted his

notice.

shout of

alarm from the negro brought the rest of us to his

side.

His eyes were rolling nervously in their sockets, and as

soon as he could get breath he whispered, in terrified
accents, that

man

he had seen the form of a

down a gloomy

passage which seemed to lead

disappear

away

into

the interior of the building.

This was disturbing news, and Yung-wan's yellow

face, I thought,

We questioned

turned to a

wan

ash colour with alarm.

Hannibal closely as to what he had really

that,

though brave as a lion in other

little

not above the influence of superstitious

"Sawum plain, Massa

" saw um clear as mud."
"

Why

"

Hi flopped out o'

t'ing,"

didn't

respects,
fear.

of

him

sight, right b'hind dat dar

answered Hannibal,

still

griffin

guarded the low entrance of the passage.

o'

a ghost

wobbling

in a state of great excite-

ment, and pointing to a hideous stone

have ketched hold

he was

Doctah," he protested earnestly,

you catch hold

we knew

confused, and

seen,

as he seemed to be a

anyhow

"

"

which

Couldn't

he added

re-

proachfully.

What was he like ? Was he in the native dress ? "

" No
'spectnot like de niggah fellahs round yere
myself."
honest
Hannibal's
ably dressed man like
As
"

THE LOST

216

cotton jacket was

and

his

now

CITY.

a thing of shreds and patches,

knees and brawny calves revealed themselves

" respect-

freely through his trousers, his notions of being

ably dressed

"

were not extravagant.

him

"

Have you

"

No, Massa Doctah," returned the negro, slowly pon-

dering, as

if

ever seen anybody like

before

he were recalling one by one the features of

the mysterious stranger, and trying to find resemblances.

"

Nebber seen anybody a

"

Would you know

again

bit like him."

the face

if

you were

to

meet

it

"No," said Hannibal gravely, scratching

then brightening up a

but I would

know

little, "

de back,

if

I wouldn't
I

met

his wool;

know

de face

it."

"

Then you saw only

his

"

Only de back,

was the reply received by the

sar,"

astonished doctor, while

we

back

could not help bursting into

a laugh at this result of the cross-questioning

Meantime a

light

had been kindled, and we stooped

and entered the dark

portal,

wings and yawning jaws

corridor after all

under the outstretched

of the grifiin.

It

was not a

only a recess in the wall, which con-

tained nothing except a few large vampire bats, which

came flapping against our

made our

hearts

jump

light

with a suddenness that

to our mouths.

At the

farther

end, however, was a wide crack, where the walls had

been rent apart, and

it

was just

possible that a

man

THE LOST

CITY.

217

might have squeezed himself through

tried the aperture

by

turns,

and

it

this opening.

Yung-wan's supple form could by any

through.

If

any one

We

was found that only

possibility get

evilly disposed towards us

in hiding on the other side, the guide

were

would have been

completely at his mercy had he attempted alone to explore the dark chamber with which the " crack in the

we would have been

wall " seemed to communicate, and

unable to render him any

It

was thought

search further

aid.

best, therefore,

and

it

not to prosecute the

seemed so improbable that another

human being could be in this hidden spot besides ourselves,

and so hard

to believe that

narrow cranny in the

anybody could escape by the

wall, that

we

almost succeeded in

persuading one another, and even Hannibal, that he

must have mistaken the

flutter of

vanishing form of a man.

made us

all

uneasy

the " lost city

"

a bat's wings for the

The incident had, however,

and we became more eager to leave

we had

behind us than

little

ago been

to explore all its secret recesses.

Rising above the other ruins were the remains of what

had once been a

great part of

lofty tower
it

was

still

crumbling, but strong even in

of

singular

shattered and

standing,
its

decay

proportions.

the grotesque

carvings with which the outer walls were covered for

the most part

still

retained their positions.

It

was Dr.

Roland's opinion that this was probably the greatest of

THE LOST

218

CITY.

the " high places " in which the idolaters

had worshipped,

pile
"

holy

as

of holies " in their

was

it

of the ruins the guide led us,

way upwards through dusty

cases,

in

where the only

by apertures

sionally

custom to have the

their

of the stars.

and proceeded
galleries

light sometimes

in the walls

and

roof,

To

this part

to

wind

and narrow

was what

on the

Near us was a low doorway in the

Yung-wan dived without

hesitation.

Stooping low, in case

to follow.

we

we emerged

side of the
cliff,

way

groped our

Of course we had
should strike our

we

slowly

upwards through the rock-hewn passage

what appeared a

we

moun-

aiid into this

heads against the projections on the roof,

again

trickled

and where we occa-

Rather unexpectedly,

the heaps of rubbish.

for

his

stair-

had to crawl on hands and knees to surmount

into the daylight on a platform

tain.

built the

temples as near as possible to the

day and the influence

light of

who

Then

terribly long space of time.

greeted the light of the sun, on a second plat-

form much higher up the

cliff

than the

first.

Here we

found steps cut in the rock, which ascended in zigzags

towards the summit of the mountain.

A heavy block

stone lay close to the dark portal from which

emerged.

Yung- wan made a narrow examination

ground, and appeared reassured by what he saw

his request,

mouth

we

of

we had
of the

and, at

assisted in rolling the boulder against the

of the archway.

Pausing

now

for a

little,

to fetch breath,

we began the

The Lost

219

Though the

ascent of the mountain.

cut,

citv.

steps

were deeply

and our hold made secure by iron pins which had

been driven into the rock at the more dangerous places,

this

As the

part of our task was no easy one.

least

robust of the party, I had several times to rest a few

minutes to get

down upon

my

" wind,"

and

to take another look

the marvellous and mysterious scene

we were

leaving.
"

Come away, Massa

Bob," said trusty Hannibal, reach-

ing out a hand to help

me

"

along.

Jest think you're

gwine upstairs to dinnah."

" It

must be dinner in a light-house then, or at the top

of a factory stalk," put in

"

Tom.

Say we are climbing the

at once," cried Dr. Roland,

some paces ahead.

"

steps of the temple of

who

Forward, lads

the mountain in sight at

last."

Fame

was, with the guide,

I

here

is

the top of

CHAPTER

XVIII.

THE GKEAT SAPPHIRE.

AN

you make out yet whereabout we

and whither we are going

"

his brows,

away

asked Tom.

No, Tom," replied Dr. Roland, knitting

which did not escape our

sat,

make

it

out

"

notice.

No,

exactly," he repeated, as he put

his pocket-compass,

which he had been consulting

as he narrowly scanned the hills

below

"

are,

on which for several days an expression of

anxiety had
I can't

and valleys around and

us.

Nine days had elapsed

six spent in canoeing

in marching

since

we had

left

the

Mekong

on the tributary stream, and three

on foot through the jungle and

judging by our worn frames and tattered

forest

but

clothes,

it

might have been supposed that we had been as many

months on the tramp.

this

was a

We

serious matter,

were

when

the

and when we had

was

settinsf

cold,

high mountainous regions.

in,

literally in rags
chill,

and

broken weather

asrain

ascended into

The journey had been

THE GKEAT SAPPHIRE.

and

toilsome

monotonous,

on

the

221

constantly

river,

by

struggling against the current, or hauling our canoes

main

force

up the

rapids,

and

since our

water voyage

ended, a no less desperate tussle through the dark, dense,

tangled thickets, and by a track that seemed to lead us

continually up-hill.

"As
after a

make

far as I can

pause, "

out," proceeded

our guide has

left

the doctor,

the valleys that might

be expected to bring us to the passes leading to the

Salwen

river,

and

is

carrying us directly to the steepest

parts of the dividing range, with

what

object I cannot

imagine."
"

Do you

not think,

sir,"

I asked, " that

there

has

been something mysterious about Yung-wan's behaviour

You remember how relucand how eager he has been since

from the very beginning

tant he

was

to join us,

to bring us into this quarter

"I would answer

Tom

said

to

hastily.

him and
" I

harm

He

well I might, for I

my

life,"

owe mine

to Hannibal."

would

too, sar,"

"

struck in the negro.

in dat coloured man,

do not doubt

sure, does Bob.

some scheme in
us.

And

good faith with

Dere

is

no

Massa Doctah and Massa Bob.

quite right all frew."

"I

am

for his
"

He

his

it,"

" neither, I

is

that ho has

the doctor rejoined

What

have noticed

head that he has not yet divulged to

seems in constant fear of

beino^

watched and

GEEAT

TfiE

222

though the

surprised,

You

quite friendly.

SAtPfilRE.

hereabout

hill-folks

have been

observed in what a hurry he was

and the precautions he took,

to dismiss our canoemen,

by doubling and returning on

they were following

To-day he has been more

us.

excited and suspicious

his path, to discover if

than ever, especially since

we

we made

our

heard the rumour in the village where

mid-day halt that the rebel army in Yunnan had been

scattered,

and that some of the refugees were supposed

to have fled for shelter to these mountains.

after his

And now,

hard day's march, he has climbed up to the

brow

of the hill above to reconnoitre the position,

see

there are no spies about."

if

"Have you not asked

his

him, then,

have, but got no satisfactory reply.

that this

is

doctor, after a

I believe

The

in

we

leader

proceeded the

few moments' thought,

" I

have not been

we

are

now

away from

the line

following.

are on the eve of the greatest discovery

Look

at these heights."

turned towards the quarter indicated

the only direction in which

the limits of the

little

we

by our

could see beyond

glade where the guide had left us.

were now high above the

left

insists

is,"

our journey has yet yielded.

"We

He

fact

the only route.

anxious to turn

had

what he has

head?"

" I

We

sir,

and

level of the plains,

and

behind us the tropical jungle, but coppices of

oak, birch, and bracken, growing

amid rocks stained

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

223

white with lichens, shut out the landscape on three sides

On

of us.

the remaining side there opened up a pros-

pect of dark valleys and of

wooded

meet

hills rising to

a lofty range of mountains, whose peaks, standing out

grandly to the south-westward, reared

themselves in

columnar masses, grouped together like the tubes of some

stupendous organ, or showed like vast lines of broken
wall capped

by fragments

domes and truncated

if

of towers

and overlooked by

cones, tilted this

way and

that, as

the whole were in the act of tumbling into ruin.

So

we had

diffi-

strange and wild

was

their appearance, that

culty in persuading ourselves that

we were

not looking

upon a fantastically-shaped cloud that had formed

in the evening sky.
scalable heights,

cold

itself

wind blew from these un-

which were flecked with snow, and we

had already had a warning

of the harsh climate of the

mountains in a shower of

sleet.

The doctor explained

to us that these rocks bore on their slopes the traces of

what he

called " igneous action."

up, perhaps

earth
it

They had been thrown

from the bottom of the ocean, when the

was heaving and bubbling with intense

was

possible that the fires that

not yet extinct.

We

heat,

had formed them were

had seen many signs of recent

volcanic action, having crossed several brooks of

or tepid water close

by

and

warm

and having

this

very evening found a sulphur spring, so hot that

we

ice-cold streams,

could not bear to keep our hands in

it.

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

224
" I

should not wonder," said Dr. Roland in conclusion,

we came upon

" if

real, live,

smoking volcano.

It

has

often been conjectured that an active volcanic region

would be found hereabout.

caps

if it

It will be a feather in our

has been reserved for us to discover

He was
scrambling

down

it."

by Yung-wan, who appeared

interrupted

the face of the rocks with the activity

of a cat.

The

him

along with the suppressed excitement in his

for,

face, there

to

results of his survey

was an

air of

had evidently pleased

triumph in the

way he

signalled

us to begin the ascent at once, as soon as he was

fairly in view.

there

He had

were no

cautiously

up under

anxiety was

now

satisfied himself

about

spies

cover, as

apparently that

instead

for

on his

of

creeping

first ascent, his

to get rapidly to the top.

only

We followed

him, wondering what was about to happen next, and

hardly able to keep the guide in sight, so steep and

work

rugged was the way.

After half an hour's tough

we

and could see not only what lay

crested the ridge,

beyond, but the whole country around

had already guessed,

we were on

the highest of the spurs thrown

range between the

behind

us,

we saw

and a number of

us.

As the

doctor

the summit of one of

ofi*

from the dividing

Mekong and Salwen rivers. Looking

the ridge on which we were standing
parallel ridges stretching away east-

ward, with steep valleys between, towards low, hot lands

by the

river.

In front and on both sides of us was the

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

225

we had now a

majestic central chain, of which

fuller

view; and almost at our feet was a deep, desolate gorge

Beyond

that appeared effectually to bar our way.

and

gorge,

far

away among

was an

of probably thirty miles,

riveted our notice

rising

from

its

summit

object that instantly

cone with a light blue vapour

Yung-wan looked on

veritable volcano

impatiently, while

the doctor

noted as carefully as possible the position of the

crater,

"

would be angry

might do us an injury.

much

to something
fact, of

part.

smoking

and we spoke excitedly about our discovery.

even muttered a word or two to the

nat

this

other peaks, at a distance

at his

effect that

the "fire

home being looked

He wished

He

at,

and

to call our attention

nearer at hand

the mountain, in

which the ridge we were standing upon formed a

It

was a huge mass

some three thousand

feet

naked brown

of

above

bably nine thousand feet above

have been many miles in

us,

and therefore proIts base

sea-level.

and

circuit,

its

that appearance of a long ruined wall that

in other giants of the range.

the top had been blown off

rock, rising

must

summit had

we

observed

It looked, in fact, as if

by some

terrific explosion,

which had strewn the fragments of the mountain over

all

the neighbouring slopes.

"

And

have no doubt that

pened," said the doctor, to

this notion.
(690)

"

Some time

is

whom

exactly
I

ventured to impart

or other there
15

what has hap-

must have been

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

226

a fearful outburst of smoke and flame up there, and the

would be

air

with fiery ashes and sulphurous

filled

fumes."
" It

Tom.

must have been warm times up here

flames belching

up hundreds

red-hot rocks raining

"

then," said

"It would have been worth while seeing the

down

Hardly worth the

risk,

will find it quite quiet

crater,

and

of feet into the air,

into the gorge there."

Tom," said the

now, I fancy

"

doctor.

We

only an extinct

with perhaps some water at the bottom.

I can-

not imagine what in the world Yung- wan wishes with us

up

there,

seeing

but I

down

am

we

are to have the chance of

Time

to turn in, boys," he added,

glad

the vent.

looking at the clouds and at his watch.

Of course

would have been out

it

of the question to

have begun the ascent that evening, so we kindled a

and made ourselves as snug

as

we

could for the night

under the shelter of some gnarled and stunted

To

tell

trees.

the truth, our quarters were not very comfortable.

Rain and
rose,

fire

sleet

began by-and-by to

fall,

and the wind

and moaned and howled and sobbed among the crags

and hollows of the mountain.

keep the

fire

of green

wood

We

were barely able to

alive in the

wind and wet,

gave out much more smoke than heat.

and

it

raw

air pierced to our

bones

and as we

The

cold,

sat shivering

on

the sodden ground and huddling together for warmth,

we

cordially agreed that

we would

gladly exchange our

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

227

swamps

present chilly camping-place for one in the

consolation was, that

horizon

we saw a

the volcano
call

away on one

be-

Our only

low, even with the mosquitoes for company.

spot of the

murky

yellowish glare, which must come from

"our

we

volcano," as

already began to

it.

Daylight at length broke, and

we

our cramped limbs, to which our thin

rose

and stretched

damp

clothes

still

Breakfast did not occupy us long, for Hannibal

clung.

had nothing better

bustard,

to offer than the cold

remnants of a

knocked over on our yesterday's march and partly

devoured at

The mountain did not

last night's supper.

look any more inviting in the gray morning light

I never felt less inclined or able to devote

cause of science than on this occasion.

and

myself to the

Hannibal glanced

nervously at the smoking cone in the distance, above which

a dark cloudy shape

now

of the Arabian Niofhts.

man

or beast

was

stitious fears.

The events

demons

nails,

of the

of the night

and eyes

of the mountains,

by

telling in

tales of the baleful

and of the "beloos"

monsters with

iron teeth

and

like live coals.

" Dere's nuffing to fear,

whom

when

had shaken him,

tried to beguile the time

wood

"

was not above super-

broken English some horrifying

power of the nats

or

Thouofh as bold as a lion

in question, he

and Yung- wan had

his

hovered, like one of the " gins

Massa Tom," he said to "Wilson,

he had taken under his

special protection since

THE GKEAT SAPPHIKE.

228

the adventure at the

with

and Hannibal, whose own voice was quaking,

cold,

thought

Tom's teeth were chattering

falls.

it

duty to inspire his youthful companion

his

" If

with courage.

dem

one of

ghosts come for us, he'll

have to go away pretty quick.

man

Massa Doctah

not de

is

to put up with nonsense from dese sort of

folks, I

tell you.'*

"

am

Oh

bother

!"

Tom

said

shaking for

Do you think I
Han ? I declare if
"

peevishly.

fear, like yourself,

these stories of Yung-wan's have not

stick

Why, man,

on end.

him from a

glaring at

posterous

beloo

'

it

made your wool

must have been some

tiger

thicket that he took for that pre-

of his,

and

his nats

were nothing more

or less than vapour, like that above the burning

moun-

There's nothing to fear, Master Hannibal,"

tain there.

he concluded, giving the worthy black a resoimding slap

on the back.
Nevertheless the party were not in high spirits

when

they began to climb the mountain, the exception being

the guide,

who seemed

every yard of progress

enough by

this

to

grow

secretly

we made.

more elated with

The reader has heard

time of hill-climbing, and need not be

troubled with an account of this weary part of our day's

work.

The sun blazed out

half-frozen over-night,
slopes

way

and

make up

to

we were now

were steep and rugged, and

over the black and

it

brown

for being

half -roasted.

was not easy

The
to find

rocks, the heaps of

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

and

scoriae

track

the

ashes,

and the streams of cooled

some

of

229

former

overflow

lava,

marking

superheated

of

materials from the burning pit in the bowels of the

Kough

mountain.

grew

grass, ferns,

and some other plants

in tufts, but hardly in sufficient quantity to help

much in our ascent and a fine volcanic dust found

way into our eyes, nostrils, and mouths, and almost
suffocated us.
The sun had passed the meridian when we
us

its

halted on the top, in

what seemed a

sterile,

blasted plain

strewn with ashes, cinders, and masses of black, fused

rock, like refuse from

some vast furnace.

was a wide and deep

depression,

In the centre

and approaching the

edge cautiously

we peeped

a great

oblong shape, perhaps a mile in length

pit, of

by a quarter

of

over into the abyss.

It

was

a mile in width, and surrounded by

nearly precipitous rocks, except on, the side opposite to

where there was a gap in the walls of the

us,

Once

this void

crater.

had belched up smoke and flame and red-

hot ashes, and the mountain had trembled with the

shocks and echoed with the din of the terrible

within

it

but the silence of death and utter desolation

was now on the

five

strucrGfle

hundred

feet

scene,

and the gray gleam of water

below us showed that a lake occupied

the bottom of the vent.

We

worked our way with much

the gap I have spoken

we

of,

and

difficulty

round to

after a perilous descent

stood on the margin of the lonely tarn.

stream

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

230

of water of a yellowish-red colour escaped from

down a gloomy

flowed through the cleft and

We

beyond.

it,

and

ravine

were now on the western side of the

mountain, and the guide confirmed by a nod the doctor's

opinion that this water must help to swell the flood of

the Salwen.
-black

So dark and

was the

sinister

and blasted crags hemmed us in so

scene, the

closely

and

frowned on us so threateningly, that I could not help a

feeling of

mysterious awe and almost terror stealing

over me, or wonder at the superstitious natives believing

that this was a place where the evil spirits had peculiar

power.

We

seemed utterly cut

living thing, in a spot

off

from every other

which had more

of the nether world than of the fair

The dark lake before us looked

as

of the features

and sunshiny

if it

earth.

were never visited

even by the winds of heaven, though there was a kind

of troubled

movement on its

the position of the springs

surface

that

About three hundred yards from

of the

cliffs,

was a

little

probably
made

us,

island

and

my

close

of profound depth, for

stone quite close to the margin,

we

under one

a pinnacle of bare

rock rising a few feet above the surface.

must have been

indicating

flesh creep.

The water

on flinging in a

noticed the bubbles

rising at the spot for nearly a minute.

by

As we were thus engaged we heard a splash close

us, and found to our surprise that Yung-wan had

divested himself of his clothes, had plunged into the

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

231

and was already swimming towards the

lake,

island.

Breathless with wonder and suspense,

we watched him

He

did not remain

as he

made

way

his

to the rock.

there long, turning almost at once to regain the shore.

was not

It

we

he was within a

till

few yards of us that

observed that he was in a state of extreme distress.

With much trouble we succeeded

shore,

He

hauling him on

in

where he immediately sank down exhausted.

held out his right hand, which had been tightly

clenched, towards the doctor,

and opening

it,

disclosed a

bluish-coloured pebble, in the form of a rough crystal.

More puzzled than

and examined

it,

chief's

We

face.

while

excitement which

He

our guide.

ever. Dr.

we no

Roland took
less

saw breaking

we had

it

from him

narrowly scanned our

into

some of the

it

noticed for some days past in

uttered an exclamation, and

Yung- wan,

forgetting his prostration, started to his feet.

"

Why,"

cried the doctor at length, " this

is

a sapphire,

and, I should think, one of the very finest and largest

in

existence

It

must weigh

The man who possesses

He handed us the gem to

least.

than a pigeon's egg

hundred carats at

five

this is

look

a prince."

at.

It

was larger

crystal of six sides, terminating

at each end in a six-sided pyramid.

through the roughened outer surface

A
;

pale blue shone

but there was a

chip on one of the sides, disclosing a lovely cerulean

tint,

matching one of the softest and deepest shades of

THE GREAT SAPPHIRE.

232

the evening sky, and with a brilliancy of

was a gem
diamond

of the

itself in

value

its

own.

and one could not look at

It

only inferior to the

"first water,"

without the heart beating with pleasure in

it

extreme

its

radiancy and beauty.

Dr. Roland handed the brilliant back to
-but

Yung-wan

refused

it,

its

signifying that he

as his offering of gratitude to his benefactor

for

having had

doctor

his life preserved.

would not hear

reluctantly to take the

He was now,

if

of

again into his keeping.

it

to leave the lake

and sharing in his eager-

ness to escape from this forbidding place,

down

the fee

This, of course, the

more anxious

than he had been to reach

it

and the guide was compelled

gem back

possible,

owner

meant

we

hastened

the bank of the stream, and entered the

amid the gathering shadows.

defile,

CHAPTER

XIX.

LOST.

we hastened

OE, some time

on, hardly

drawing

breath to exchange a word with each other,

as

we

climbed over the blocks of

or

slid

lava and basalt with which the bed of the stream

paved.

were

You would have

fleeing in panic,

had you seen

said,

with

we

the host of evil genii of

all

And, in truth, we did

the mountains at our heels.

was

us, that

like those heroes of the old romances,

feel

when they had

away some potent ring or charm from an enchanted

castle, and knew that the incensed magician was busy
borne

summoning

his familiar spirits

down

spells in order to bring

them.

It

seemed as

if

and working

his

wicked

trouble and disaster

upon

a secret danger were brewing for

us up by that "uncanny "-looking lake, and that our safety

lay in getting quickly
shores.

away from

its

lonely and desolate

There were more substantial reasons for pushing

on, however.

We

had no

high up the mountain

desire to pass another night

and hunger was making impor-

LOST.

234

tunate calls upon us, which

we had no hope

of satisfying

in that cold, deserted region behind us.

We
we

had at

come

last to

to a halt

were

for not only

exhausted by fasting and severe exertion, but the

darkness was gathering in so deeply that

We were

longer pick our way.

we

could no

fortunate enough to find

-some nuts and berries on the shrubs that again began to

line our path,

water

and

we
by

for

looking fluid

The pool
that

still

cool, fresh

down from

our side that ran

also yielded a

our

better,

spring of

did not dare to drink the sulphury-

few

" fresh- water

though not enough to

meal,

ravenous appetite, was perhaps better than

the lake.
;"

oysters

appease

so

our

we had any

right to count upon.

We

had now time

finding

the

of

to hear the

great

sapphire,

guide's story of the

and Yung-wan,

after

carefully reconnoitring

the ground

were no

had no hesitation in satisfying

listeners

near,

to

see

that there

our curiosity, as far as his limited power of expression

in English

and Chinese went.

He

told

us that he

belonged to this part of the country, or rather to the

district

crossed.

on the eastern side of the mountain we had just

He had

been engaged at the famous ruby and

sapphire mines of the King of Burmah, which lay some

distance to the westward of where

finding that
seized

we now were

but

any treasure he found was immediately

upon by the myrmidons

of

His Golden-footed

LOST.

235

Majesty, the " Proprietor of the Mines of Rubies, Gold,

and

he proudly styles himself, he

Silver," as

and made

profitless diggings in disgust,

his

left these

way

his

towards

Passing through the jungles near the mouth

home.

which

of the stream

we were now

following

us

Salwen

more than a day's journey

into the

fell

ahead

he

fell

little

upon a spot which

gem-workings told him

precious stones.

He

wels

experience of

his

a likely

work

set to

he told

place

to

to sift the gravel

find

and

sand with such tools as he could lay hands on, and ere
long he came upon several small rubies and topazes.

Thus encouraged, he went on

days, until he

cent

was rewarded by turning up the magnifi-

gem which we had

His

feeling

first

elation,

of stupefaction, then extreme

How

fear.

should he dispose of

which might make him the

man

wealthiest

seen.

was one

but lastly

this treasure,

secretly digging for several

of his

tribe,

bring him trouble, or perhaps death

retium to Burmah.

time

know

and,

greatest

He

dared not

The English he did not

besides,

and

but was more likely to

the

country of

at that

the

Red

Karens, the sworn and deadly enemies of his race, lay

between them and him.

On

the other hand, Chinese

traders were in the habit of passing through his native

country, and he

and stones of

knew them

price.

He

to be great dealers in jewels

resolved to

make

his

way

into

China, and there find a merchant for the great sapphire.

LOST.

236

But here

also there

frontiers

were in the hands of lawless bands of robbers,

were dangers to be encountered.

and there were rumours

broken

out.

single

The

of insurrection having again

unarmed man

would

like himself

be certain to be plundered, and probably murdered.

must hide

gem, and bring a merchant to

his

it

should have strength enough at his back to carry

in safety.

Then he bethought him

He
who

it

off

of the lake in the

crater.

There could be no safer hiding-place

from

its

secluded position, none of the natives of the dis-

trict

would venture near the

for apart

spot, out of terror for the

supernatural beings that were supposed to lurk there.

fear

and trembling he ascended

to the

haunted tarn, and

hid the sapphire in a cleft of the rocky

centre.

In

islet

in the

Then he made his way to China, which he reached

almost naked, having been stripped by brigands of the

lesser

gems he had brought away with him, and barely

escaping with his

life.

had found a merchant

truth of his story.

At the

whom

Yunnan-fu he

city of

he had convinced of the

The scheme

finally concocted

was

that a trading-party should be organized, and should

start, as if

to

proceeding by the usual direct trade route

Mandalay, with Yung-wan as guide.

When

they

had reached the neighbourhood of these mountains, the

Shan would lead them

was concealed
fluence,

and

it

to the place

where the sapphire

was hoped that through

and by the aid of

bribes, his

tribe

his in-

would be

LOST.

237

engaged to form a strong convoy in carrying the

to China.

In the party, as

it

gem

turned out, was one of

who were secretly engaged in stirring

Mohammedans to revolt, and this man, Yung- wan

the conspirators

up the

suspected,

had got an inkling

journey, and had betrayed

ferocious leader,

of the true object of the

them

and

Had he

Khodja Akbar Khan.

caped, their intention, he believed,

life,

into the hands of his

to induce

him by

had been

not

to spare his

and promises

torture, threats,

In Yung-wan's

to reveal the hiding-place of the sapphire.

opinion, the spies had never once taken their eyes

him; and one

party

who

was that

of the first faces he noticed

his traitorous companion.

off

among the
Mekong,

surprised us at the ferry on the

of

es-

Since our ap-

proach to the hiding-place of his treasure, and especially

after hearing the report that stragglers

from the broken

rebel bands had been seen in the neighbourhood, his

suspicions of spies

dogging his

Again on

and almost with

his knees,

the doctor to take the sapphire.

steps

had redoubled.

tears,

He had

he besought

not,

he vowed,

once slept soundly or had a moment's ease of body or of

mind

since the hour

upon him

like

when

its fatal

beauty

first

gleamed

a star in the dark bosom of mother

earth.

Dr. Roland gently explained to

of the

him

that

question to accept such a gift at

" Besides,"

he added, with a smile,

" if

it

it

was out

his hands.

has been such

LOST.

238

a burden on you,

my

ness to wish to roll

you what we
thither,

we

friend, it is hardly
it

will

will go

gems, as

To

if

you choose

If

I will tell

to guide us

with you to the spot where you

Who

unearthed the sapphire.

ing to us, " but

But

over upon me.

do.

an act of kind-

we may

we had come

knows," he added, turn-

away laden with

each come

out of Aladdin's cavern."

this the guide joyfully assented, telling us that

the place was only a few hours' march from our direct

Then we resigned our-

route to the British border.

keep a

selves to sleep, after arranging to

strict

Nothing happened

in turns during the night.

watch

to disturb

us, except that towards morning Hannibal roused us,

and declared with great earnestness that he had seen a

dusky shape watching

appeared from
"

he

Saw um

insisted,

us,

and that

it

flop right

dis-

down

b'hind dat dar bush, sar,"

wiping the cold sweat from his brow, with

his eyes rolling in his

head

but he could give no other

account of the apparition, except that

a bull " and had eyes " like live

Tom

immediately

sight.

thought

we ought

shrub before approaching

and

was

as " big as

coals."

to " blaze
it,

it

away a

bit " at the

was inwardly

of the

same opinion, but the doctor pointed, as one excellent

reason against "blazing away," that
rifle

cartridge

followed

left.

by the

He

we had

just one

stepped quietly up to the bush,

rest of us,

when we found

that though

LOST.

239

loomed so big in the foggy

it

had a hearty laugh

Hannibal, which was none the

at

he infected some

could not have

light, it

We

given cover to a catamount.

less

loud

because

of us with his half -superstitious fears,

and scathing were the sarcasms

as to

how

his " bull "

had

found shelter behind a few twigs of willow.

When day had

and our marclj

fully broken, however,

was resumed, we found that we had not wholly shaken

off the feeling of disquiet that

the

moment

had crept upon us from

that the sapphire had

The scenery

come

the ravine through which

of

wending was weird and oppressive

The

black,

gaunt walls looked as

scathed with

into our charge.

fire,

if

in

the

we were
extreme.

they had been

and plant and animal

life

seemed to

be timorously venturing back into the valley after some

terrible catastrophe that

with

hot,

had

laid it waste.

bubbling sulphur springs

that trickled

down

the rocks

white, green, purple stains,

and basins from which

little

We

met

water-courses

the waters tinged with

and exhaling powerful gases

puffs of

steam and jets of water

rose at regular intervals.

Yung-wan now

told us, in

something that added not a

On

his

last

visit

firmly believed
active

and

here,

them

violent.

the crater and ran

an awe-stricken whisper,

little to

our sense of alarm.

these snorting demons,

to

be,

as he

had not been nearly so

The stream that escaped from

down

the gorge was then a mere

LOST.

240

dribblet

now

ran in a powerful current, that rose

it

above mid-leg when

that

it

we

forded

was stronger both

it,

and in force

in smell

since

But the most remarkable thing was what

yesternight.

When

he told us about the crater-lake.

into

and we even fancied

he had dipped

on the occasion when he had concealed the

it

had a

sapphire,

the water

warmth.

On swimming

hardly

pleasant,

to the island

on

sensible

this last visit,

he had crossed spots where water was welling up so

hot that he could scarcely bear

had relaxed

much

and

it

was

this that

powers and weakened his strength so

that he was barely able to struggle back to the

Even

margin.
ture to be

with

his

it,

at the edge

we had found

somewhat more than

dismay the

signs

of

We

tepid.

greater

the tempera-

remembered

activity

we had
and

noticed in the burning cone to the southward;

from some words that the doctor

let fall,

we

gathered

that an explosion of the volcano might occur at any

moment, though, on the other hand,

"

it

might linger

on,

getting up steam," for a month.

Was

it

the glamour of the great sapphire that

us start and listen at every

the jungle

little

sound

made

we heard

in

the snapping of a twig, the rustling of a

branch, or the fall of a handful of earth from the rocks

We

were more nervous and fearful in

than we had been when surrounded

by

bandits, or

when plunging down

this forsaken dell

by savages

or

the rapids of the

LOST.

We

Mekong.

men who,
is

241

"felt" danger rather than saw

in the darkness,

know

it

is.

And

yet,

like

that some malign thing

watching them, without being able to

where

it,

tell

what

or

apart from the faint noises I

may

have mentioned, and which

probably have been

caused by some deer, or monkey, or bird, absolutely

nothing disturbed the profound and deathly solitude.

The gorge widened a

room

as

little

we advanced,

cipitous walls continued as high as before.

day

was taken

rest

to be

leaving

stunted trees on both banks, but the pre-

for

more

tall

and

where the jungle began

at a spot

We

dense.

Our mid-

were

talkino: over

our

plans in a less elated tone than might have been ex-

pected from people

who had

just "

come

into a fortune

"

which, perhaps, might be explained by the fact that

we had had
the
far

call of
off,

and

nothinof to eat since the

it fell

perfectly

interval

of silence

shriek for help.

sounds of

stalking this sort

of

stick,

his long knife stuck into his belt in

still

was repeated a

(690)

in

armed only with a

coming suddenly upon a

we kept
call

skilful

stole into the jungle,

and of course having

case of

when

musically on the ear of hungry men.

Yung-wan, who was

game,

mominof

a bush-turkey was heard in the thicket not

little

was

We

tiger or a panther, while

in our places.

After a pause the

further off; and then another

startlingly

broken by a loud

sprang to our

scuffling, trampling,

IQ

feet.

We

heard

and breaking of branches,

242

LOST.

were going

as if a terrible struggle

on,

and we dashed

through the thick undergrowth of thorns, the creepers,

and the

air

in the direction of the noise.

roots,

was quiet again when we reached the

we

All

spot, except that

could hear the sound of retreating footsteps already

some distance

But our thoughts were soon wholly

off.

absorbed in an object

body

on the

of the guide, motionless

ground.

It

was the

and covered with blood.

The doctor bent over him, examined the wounds on

back and

his

looked at

chest,

us with

and

felt

his

Yung- wan was dead

stood too well.

Then he

pulse.

an expression of face we under-

He had

dently been surprised from behind, and a mortal

had been
self;

to

inflicted

evi-

wound

on him before he could defend him-

but he had had time before being overpowered

draw

his knife,

in his hand.

paces off

which he

He had

not

still

held firmly clenched

fallen

alone,

we found another bloody and

damp earth and leaves.

extended on the

for

a few
form

lifeless

It

was that

of a swarthy man, of the Chinese type of features, but

wearing the white turban and other tokens of having

belonged to the army of rebel Panthays.

The doctor

and Hannibal thought they had noticed his face in the

group that surrounded the insurgent leader on the
occasion of our capture

but

Tom and

had

that the countenances of these people were so

that

we

to

admit

much

alike

could scarcely distinguish one from another.

LOST.

We

243

had no doubt, however, that

whom

poor Yung- wan had told

in his first expedition

this

us,

was the man about

who had

and afterwards turned

joined
traitor

him
and

much difficulty in guessing who was the

accomplice who had escaped.
On searching, we found that Yung-wan's girdle, in
which, as we knew, the sapphire had been concealed,
had been rudely torn open. The gem was gone
The

we had

not

knowledge also of the mine of precious

stones,

from

which we had promised ourselves such untold wealth,

had perished with

its

discoverer; for

who

could

now

guide us to the secret spot where he had found this

fatal treasure

trouble us at

fellow

Little,

first.

however, did such reflections

We thought

who had been

dangers and hardships

of the faithful, devoted

our companion through so

of

his unfailing

patience, his touching gratitude,

many

courage and

and of the deep debt of

we owed him in return. It was with sad

we bore him to a cavity in the rocks,
in lieu of a better sepulture.
Beside him we laid the
corpse of his assassin, and we rolled a large stone over
thanks that

and

full hearts that

the hole as a defence against the vultures.

CHAPTER

XX.

FOUND.

HEN

the mournful duty

was

over, other ideas

Anger

took possession of our minds.

ceeded

to

We

sorrow.

were

filled

suc-

with

hot and fierce indignation against the cowardly villain

vjho had so treacherously murdered our cheerful and

kindly
It

little

was

and we determined to track him down.

guide,

back without our seeing him

way

he could have doubled

scarcely possible that

of escape

and

was down-stream.

besides, his obvious

So we resumed our

route with fresh vigour, keeping a sharp look-out to

right

and

left for

the fugitive.

he had eluded us
of the defile

we were
spite

assassin.

that the

seemed at

we came upon

as if

signs that

showed us that

and gave us hopes that

we would

in

soon come up with the

Drops of blood stained the stones

man we were

out of the struggle

first

but on reaching a more open part

in the right track,

of his start

It

a proof

pursuing had not come scathless

It

was

singular,

and we could not

FOUND.
help remarking upon

even as

it

245

we

hurried on, that our

journey in unexplored lands should be ending as

it

had

begun, in a life-and-death chase through a rocky ravine.

But how
were

different

naked savages

were the circumstances

fleeing for our lives before

fugitives,

now we were

Then we
a band of

messengers of vengeance,

following hard on the steps of our

wounded enemy.

By-and-by we came in sight of him labouring painfully along over the boulders

wood

As we

in front.

and through the brush-

rapidly gained upon him, he

cast a glance at us over his shoulder like the glare of a

hunted

tiger.

It scarcely surprised us to recognize the

face of Kliodja

Akbar

and he appeared

to

know

the fates had pronounced against him, for his

features were convulsed with impotent fury

At

part of the valley there

this

was just
above

and

his eye

dark
hate.

was a spot where

up the crags

possible to climb

and

that

to the

it

level

seemed to measure the distance

between us and him, in order to judge whether he had

time to avail himself of this loophole of escape.

must have decided that he had

he continued his

We

flight

down

must now, according

not, for

without pausing

the valley.
to

from poor Yung-wan, be quite

which

He

what we had learned

close

to

the Salwen,

here, as throughout its course, flows in a confined

and narrow channel.

Before entering the main river,

however, the small stream

we had been

following cast

FOUND.

246

itself
fall

cliff

which

so famous,

this region is

now

of little

the sides of the

clifis,

trunk, which had to

Khodja Akbar, with a

and crossed by a

At

forest above.

and then

He

of

his force to hurl

shrank from taking the

life

before, the

cartridge

on the

but he

of a fellow-creature, even

one caught red-handed, in this way, and to

last

end of

from the

it

have shot him dead

course,

stepped

seizing the

moment, and several times

this

doctor might,

all

single tree-

appearance fallen accidentally

all

across with wavering steps,

the log, he strained

yawning gap,

until he reached a

from the

into this position

rock.

spread out their

more than a hundred yards, crept along

close to the falling water,

our

while

fine forest trees, including the magnificent teak

branches almost over the cascade.

lead

Above the

in a turbid waterfall.

hung higher and grimmer than ever

the crags

aloft,

for

over a steep

expend

The heavy trunk

deed.

would not be moved, and the fugitive turned again

We

for flight.

of this natural

tremble,
at

sea.

had approached within a few yards

bridge,

Thinking that

about to give way,

near me.
shock,

when

and then heave

two

I felt the solid

like

the

deck

a portion of

ground
a

of

ship

the rock was

I instinctively clung to the bushes

There was a brief pause, and then a violent

or three times repeated,

senses the crags about

and

me seemed

to

my

to rock

large fragments detached themselves from the

confused

and
clifis

reel

and

FOUND.
fell

247

crashing to the bottom, and a loud splash announced

that a mass of ponderous size had fallen into the water

beneath, while a dull muffled sound like distant thunder

reached

my

All this
it

ears.

may have occupied

me that at least

only a few moments, but

a couple of minutes had

appeared to

elapsed before I had collected

my

The

from a stunning blow.

few hours

if

just recovering

tragic events of the last

the assassination, the burial of the victim,

the pursuit of the murderer

all

and

scattered wits,

looked about me, dazed and giddy as

had

driven from our minds

from

recollection of the danger that threatened us

the awakening volcano behind us, and this earthquake

shock

bewildered

Almost the

first

us

at

first

by

unexpectedness.

its

thing I observed clearly was that an

now

impassable chasm

barred our advance

that crossed the chasm had been shaken from

and was

floating in the pool beneath.

the tree

its

place

A mocking

laugh

from Akbar the Kashgaree, as he passed from sight

round a projecting

crag, told us that

that pursuit in this direction

There was nothing for

was

it

he also perceived

hopeless.

but to

"

hark back

the spot where, as I have before mentioned, the

seemed

scalable.

With

infinite trouble the

"

to

cliffs

whole party

succeeded at last in reaching the summit of the rocks.

"We found ourselves amid dense and lofty forests that

almost covered the country in front as far as our view

FOUND.

248

extended, heaving and sinking, according to the irregularities

teak

The

of the surface, like a vast sea of green.

tree,

with

leaves, that

its

have so often been compared to the ears of

an elephant, predominated
varieties of

trunk and great pendulous

stately

many

but there were also

palms and other plants of the

beau-

tropics,

tiful for their flowers or their foliage, or valuable for

the

fruits, dyes,

gums, drugs, and spices that they

yield.

Within easy reach we descried the valley of the Salwen

lying like a deep trench across our way, just as

seen

it

when we had been

slim rope.

Its

we had

hundred miles higher up,

in Thibet three or four

slung across

its restless

waters on a

banks now, instead of being naked and

gaunt, were clothed with dense verdure; but they looked

scarcely less savage.

when we

"We knew, however, that

had reached the farther shore we should have

limits of the absolutely

unknown behind

left

the

and that

us,

a few comparatively easy stages more would bring us

among our fellow-countrymen,

and

voices

for

whose homely faces

and home-like ways we were longing with

an energy that only those who have sojourned

and savage countries can understand.

in far

We
cliffs,

like us

followed as closely as

we

dared the edge of the

occasionally peering over to see

Akbar were
pectedly

if

any

to be detected in the gorge below.

we came

traces of

Unex-

in sight of him, resting on a rock not

far beneath the waterfall.

The pain

of his

wound had

FOUND.

249

overcome him, or he had met with some obstacle in

front which he could not pass

that he was

now

safe

or perhaps he imagined

We

from farther pursuit.

could

almost have dropped a pebble upon the spot where

he sat

but he had evidently no suspicion that

we were

so near to him.

As we leaned over the cliffs, discussing in low earnest

tones what means we should take to bring our enemy
to bay, a noise which we had heard for some minutes,
and taken

for the distant roar

more loudly on our

sound

increased,

rapidly,
valley.

ears.

and

it

a waterfall, smote

Every moment the volume of

seemed to be approaching us

and from the direction

As we

of

upper end of the

of the

listened, it swelled into angry, terrible

notes, that filled the air

with foreboding and alarm.

We

looked at one another, already half conjecturing the

truth before the doctor told us,

by

sign rather than

by

word, that the earthquake must have rent wider the

gap in the mountain above, and that

this

must be the

escaping waters of the lake in the crater that were

hurrying towards us down the gorge.

Khodja Akbar

also

had heard the sound, and had started

The

fierce feeling of anger

and

which had inspired us during the

to pass

away when we saw

cliffs

for

vengeance

few hours seemed

the poor,

exposed to so appalling a doom.

cular part of the

desire
last

to his feet.

wounded wretch

There was one parti-

where, with our help from above.

250
it

was just

FOUND.

him

possible for

We shouted to him at the

us,

highest pitch of our voices, and

him where he should

eagerly signalled to

towards

to .reach a place of safety.

Perhaps

was already too

it

prayer or an imprecation

lost in the noise

I cannot tell

or

was

the great sapphire, for the sake

it

his

hand

in innocent blood

for at that instant the

main body

flood reared itself above the rocks at the

chafed and angry

fall,

of the
like

with a tawny mane of rushing

lion,

waters streaming behind

it.

Another moment, and

had leaped down with a mighty roar on

victim,

He shook

the knife with which he had slain his

it

which he had steeped

of

of the torrent.

and something gleamed an instant in his

his fist at us,

"Brother

the

late, for

The doomed man

channel in ponderous brown masses.

shrieked some words

Was
man

turned

was already thundering down the rocky

flooded stream

hand.

He

but he could not or would not understand

our meaning.

which were

go.

its

and the body of Akbar was tumbling and

ing amidst the wreck of

reeds that were hurrying

it

solitary-

toss-

uprooted trees and broken

down

to the " Valley of the

Shadow."

There

me

to

scene

is

tell.

not

We

we had

of intense

much

of the story of our journey left for

away

turned

witnessed

relief, for

horror-stricken from the

yet soon there came a feeling

the constant strain of suspense and

FOUND.

251

had weighed upon us so long as we were

suspicion that

under the shadow of the volcanoes, with the great

enemy near

sapphire in our charge, and an unsleeping

We

was now removed.

us,

of teak-cutters

and

us hospitably while

rafters,

reached the huts of a party

kindly people that entertained

we rested

to recruit

and to prepare for

resuming our journey. Some attempts we made convinced

us that

it

was hopeless

wan's sapphire-mine.
abated,

to expect to discover poor

Yung-

After waiting until the flood had

we proceeded down

the swift Salwen for several

days on one of the timber-rafts that descend to the sea

even from this distance up the

We

river.

of dangerous experiences in shooting rapids

past rocks, but nothing that

well inured

we were

and slipping

not by this time

Then came vexing delays

to.

were alarming rumours that a

had plenty

hostile tribe

for there

had formed

a stockade on the river, and the raftsmen would not

way was

proceed until they were certain that the

We

clear.

determined to leave the stream, and, hiring a party

of guides

British

On

and

porters, proceed over-land to the border of

Burmah, now

close at hand.

the third morning

jungly forest of

"

we were marching through a

toddy palms" and bamboos, when the

alarm was given from the front that there was a tiger
in the path.

Sure enough

we found

a great yellow

brute growling and snarling, on the opposite bank of a

marshy stream, over the body

of a deer

which he had

FOUND.

252

brought down, and was loath to leave.

was about

to

fire

we

ammunition from our friends on the

sharp crack of a

Dr. Roland

had replenished our stock of

river

when

the

resounded in the wood, and the

rifle

tiger rolled over, clawing

and tearing up the ground

with his huge paws.

,"

You've done

"

Right through the

" I

Sandy," said a hearty

the beloved tongue of

in

voice

this time,

it

ear, too, as I

our native England.

am

a living man."

think the shot might have been worse," said an-

other voice in slower and more deliberate tones, in which

might

be detected the accents of one born to the

easily

north of the Tweed.

by glowering

"

across the

But what could the beast mean

burn in yon way

?"

Two stalwart figures, clad in half-military, half -sportsman dress, with white " puggerees" and leggings, came up
to the spot

to theirs

And

where the

when we

Our

tiger lay.

hailed

them

surprise

in their

truly strange tatterdemalion figures

was nothing

own lancruao^e.
we must have

seemed as we emerged with our native followers from

the brake, with our sunburned features,

and ragged

jackets.

Our new

unkempt

locks,

friends were Lieutenants

Alexander M'Leod and Henry Yerney, of the Royal

Engineers.

marking

off*

They had been

sent out on the duty of

the frontier between the Karen tribes and

the country claimed

by independent Burmah, and having

completed their task, had set

off"

on a hunting

trip

FOUND.

253

beyond the borders before returning

their

fortune cast them in our path.

when good
repeat

to

what

station,

I will not

when they heard

know they made Tom

these kind officers said

the story of our adventures.

and me blush

till

our faces tingled, with their praises of

what they were pleased

and

to call our gallantry

forti-

tude,

and shook our hands and slapped our backs with

their

heavy palms

until

told

them

we had

that

so,

all

our fortitude to

But we knew

prevent us from wincing.

and

needed

it

all

the time

only they would pay no heed to us

no credit for what had been done,

really

having merely done our best to obey orders, and that to

Dr. Roland, along with faithful Hannibal, the honour and

glory of the journey really belonged.

That night we
mock, after a

slept

under canvas, in a clean ham-

warm and abundant

coming into the enjoyment

we had

lonor

been

meal, thus suddenly

of three comforts to

stranorers.

which

This was nothinor, how-

ever, to the delight of being again with friendly, hos-

pitable people of our

own

nation,

and of hearing news

from home in our sweet mother tongue.

we had

that our trials were over, and that

again within the pale of civilized

glimpse

we

and

got back

with the

first

got of Lieutenant M'Leod's red whiskers and

his companion's

life,

We knew

ruddy cheek.

fortnight later

we were

chief port of British

in Rangoon, the capital

Burmah.

need not narrate

FOUND.

254

was through a

these later stages of our journey, which

known

country pretty well

Rangoon

the reader will not thank

itself

by hundreds

for it is a place visited

To

every year.

first

shall

to describe,

of British ships

for after our severe fatigue

hardly able to

was

duty, of course,

and

of

and

whole party suffered from reaction, and

many days were

for

me

sights

the truth, I have a very indifferent

tell

remembrance of them
privation, the

The

already.

to send a

to our relatives at

long given us up as

It

lost.

stir about.

Our

message to Mr. Mar-

home, who, we found, had

was

settled that

we

should

not return to Assam, but proceed directly to England to

recruit

from the

effects

among

the grim

and the poisonous marshes of the

of Thibet

deserts

of our sojourn

Mekong.

One morning we

stood on the deck of the steamer at

We had

the chief outlet of the Irrawady.

bid good-bye

to all our kind friends in Rangoon, and were about to

set sail for "

Tom and

home."

were looking over the

bulwarks watching the smooth current of the noble

stream, covered with large and small craft, that
crossed

when

and the

it

was

little

more than a mountain

level green banks,

we had
torrent,

with the roofs of pagodas,

churches, and villas rising above the trees, so strangely

in contrast

to

the wild and desolate scenes through

which we had seen

was

close

behind

it

us,

f^ow near

its

source.

Dr. Roland

with Hannibal beside him, giving

FOUND.

255

the finishing touches to the packing of his master's

The doctor

lufffjaore.

Tom

thing that

or I

jocularly to the

weary miles our

we had had

some-

had said half-seriously and

that,

effect

feet

the last remark

cauo^ht

notwithstanding

half-

the

all

had trodden, and the untold wealth

in our grasp,

we were

leaving these shores

empty-handed.

"What do you

"Empty-handed!" he echoed.
empty-handed

That case that Hannibal

contains treasures worth

real value

all

if

is

the world only

the gold-mines in Burmah.

specimens there that will

make some

call

strapping

knew

its

There are

of our

men

of

science open their eyes."

" If

we

could have brought

away

they have opened them wider

the sapphire, wouldn't

still ?"

Tom

slyly ven-

tured to say.

"And

even

you were empty-handed," the doctor

if

proceeded, without paying attention to the interruption,

"you

are not empty-headed, or

Think on the

rare

shown

to

you

it

is

your own

fault.

and beautiful things that Nature has

the grand and mysterious secrets she

has trusted you with, as the reward for visiting her in

her solitude.

Think

of the knowledoje of stranore races

and lands and customs you have learned, not through

the

medium

Above

all,

of books or of teachers, but at first hand.

boys, I think the trials

and dangers we have

come through together must have taught each one of us

FOUND.

256

priceless lessons that

day

lessons of faith

ness, of
ness.

we

shall not forget to our

and hope,

of fortitude

and manli-

mutual forbearance and patience and helpful-

Our pioneering

few years

older,

but

it

made us a
made us many years wiser."

in Further India has

has

Then the steam- whistle sounded, and our

under

dying

way

for England.

THE END.

vessel got

;^
v^

exi