Novasrbija 00 Dedi

96
HOBA CPBHJA
MHorHx Ty4>03HHx CTeHa. Hedo cy rHncoM h cyMnopoM npo>KeTe MHore Kyne Koje cy caciaBJbeHe oa ByjiKaHCKor neneâ, necKa h Jianjuia. Ty ce Ha/ia3H h tbo>kêBHTa BO.ua, qnja je TeMnepaTypa HeuiTo BHiua oa
o6HHHe. Hcto TaKO, y aojihhh Ta6anKe Pene koa cejia
>Kejie3HHKa HMa jaK H3B0p KHce;ie h rBoadjeBHTe bcw,
H3 Koje CO2 y Kô6yKOBHMa CKaqe. y Tona;iOBHhcKoj
PeuH cyMnop ce jaBJba y bc/wkhm KOJiHHHHaMa, o6hmho
hhct h y ê6jbHM >KHuaMa. Haj6oraTHj'e pyAHe )KHue
3ana)KeHe cy y aiHBy 3;ieT0BCKe ro/ieMe Pene h y
AOJiHHaMa aeHHx npHTOKa. Ty cy ao npe 40Ao50roAHHa h TypuH pyAe TonHJiH. Ha nyTy oa KpaTOBa 3a
rieqeHHuy no3HaTH reo;ior Amu Bye BHAeo je koa ce/ia
B.iH3aHua cpe6poHOCHH raêHHT. Ha o6e CTpaHe pene
One h y npaBuy oa H>e npeMa MaHacrnpy bhah ce
npeno 1 km. Ayra, h 20 ao 30 m. Ae6e;ia pyAHa muu,a,
y Kojoj je T. U,BHJHh naiuao rBOâ, MaHraHa, cpe6poHOCHor raêHHTa, nnpHTa h xajiKonnpHTa. Ha npocTOpy
H3Metjy ilyror XpHAa, /IecHOBCKor MaHacTHpa h ce/ia
J],o6peBa BHê ce mnixt oa nHpy;i03HTa. JJajbe HMa
>KHua Koje y ce6H caAP>Ke MaâxHT, cpe6pOHOCHH ra
jiemn h c(J)aêpHT.
HcnHTyjyhH TpocKBy H3 Te o6;iacTH, M. JleKO
Haiuao je y h>oj OBe pyAe: rBOê, MaHraH, ojiobo,
uhhk, 6anap h cyMnop. no Muwjheihy J. Ueujuha, y
nHpHTHMa h xa^KonHpHTHMa Tpe6a Tpa)KHTH TparoBe
nêMeHHTHx pyAa. EpynTHBHO 6pAO, CeocKa KopHJa,
cacraBJbeHO je oa By^KaHCKor necKa h nenejia myje
h upBeHe 6oje, kojh cy cjiohcchh y cnojeBe. BeoMa je
6oraTa cyMnopoM, kojhm cy CBe creHe npoaceTe h kojh
ce necTO jaBJba y Ae6;t>HM >KHuaMa. CyMnopoM je Haj6oraTHJH Aeo KopHJe kojh ce 30Be Kyjia. Ty(J)03He
Mace y KOJHMa ce Ha;ia3H cyMnop cacraBJbeHe cy y
cyMnop je Bpjio
rviaBHOM oa a^yMHHHj'yM-cH^HKaTa
hhct, ca He3HaTHHM TparoBHMa ceêHa h yrjbeHHKa. Ty
je ao npe KpaTKor BpeMeHa Balden cyMnop y BehHM
KO^HMHHaMa. Zlajbe cy Ty(})03He Mace necTO npoêie
rnncoM h npeByneHe onaÔM. y Tyc})y ce jaBJbajy h
;
m
m
5"
CBA
KHMEBHA 3MPyiA
K0J1O XXII. Br. 154.
Dr.
JEBTO AEJHJEP.
HOBA CPBHJA.
i
CPnCKA KH)H>KEBHA 3AHPyrA

(kOJ\0 XX1i)bP.
Dr
154.
JEBTO JEJIHJEP
HOBA CP5MJA.
<CA 40 C/1HKA y TEKCTy H
KAPTOM HOBE
:orp
1918.
CP5H.lt;)
584898
n p e a
y
oboj KtbH3H ,nao caM
p.
reorpa(J)CKH
npervieix n
ohhm o6;iacTHMa ôcaâiujbe CTape Cp6HJe h MaKcAOHHj'e Koje caMHfcaBajy HoBy Cp6HJy. rioKyiuao ca>.i
Aa thm nper/ieiiOM asm ujto jacHHJy h iijto BepHHjy
D/IHKy O 3CM/bH, HdCHHM npHpoAHHM oco6HHaMa, H o
>KHBOTy tteHa Hapoâ. J\a to nocTHrHeM, HHcaM aycraB/bao Ha caMOM onwcy Haj*Ba>KHHJHx nojaBa, Beli
caM noKyiuao na tc nojaBe o6jacHHM, h na hx rpy
nmueM no HanHHy ibHXOBa nociaHKa. Ilo ohom npabh/jv za jc CBaKa CTBap jacHa no Hammy CBora nodaHKa h no HCTOpnJH CBor pa3Bnha, ja caM y oboj
KibH3H H3paAH0 KpaTKy Hcropnjy pa3BHha OHHX MopeêMeHaTa kojh cy Hajjaqe n3pa>KeHn y
npnpoAH 3eM/bHiuTa h tberoBOJ n;iacTHUH H3âraibCM
Te HcropHJe ymao caM y 06/iacT HayiHHX nmaiba c
KOJHMa je Haiua qmajiaMKa ny6;iHKa BeoMa Ma;io no3HaTa. Thmc caM cc h3/io>kho onacHOCTH jxa mh ce *aMepn ujto roBopHM o cTBapHMa 3a Koja jeâH aeo
name ny6/iHKe neMa cnopo HHKaKBor HHTepecoBau.a.
A/ih ja caM no/ia3Ho c rvieAiiLUTa â HHJcaHa OBawBa
Haymia 06/iacT He Mowe 6hth Ba>KHa caMO no tomc
ko/ihko je OBaj h/ih OHaj jieo ny6/iHKe cxBaTa h )Ba>KaBa, Beh no ohhm yTHuajiiMa Koje h>chh pa3HH 06jeKTH BpUJe Ha H3BCCHy 3eM/by H IbCHO CTaHOBHHUJTBO.
36or Tora caM kojx cbbkc nojaBe nacrajao jia tc ymuaje nar/iacHM, jxa hx no MoryhcrBy h o6jacnHM, h 3a
pa3yMeBaibe lunpoj ny6/iHUH yiHHHM ziaKiunM.
Ohh kojh cy noKynjaBa.TH na nony/iapnujy nojcahuq rpane ohhx nayna kojc cy ny6/iHUH OBaKO M&no
J103H3TC, MOllH tiC ZiaKO CXBaTHTH TCUiKOiiC KOJ C3M
<})o;ioujkhx
IV
nPEnroBOP
y obom pa^y HMao #a caBJiaâM. Tpe6a;io je npHKa3HBaite yêcHTH TaKO jx& oho 6yjie. y ochobhhm cbojhm upTaMa HayqHO, a y hcto BpeMe h ny6;iHUH jacHO.
MefrjyTHM. Ta #Ba 3axTeBa Bpjio necTo ce Meijy co6om
HCKJbynyjy. y TaKHM c;iy'iajeBHMa y Hac ce o6hmho y
KOHuecHJaMa npeMa toj HajiuHpoj ny6;iHUH huiô h
cyBHiue iiajieKO,
TaKO jia. ce nayna pa3BOj!tfbaBajia.
y TaKHM c/iynajeBHMa ja caM y3HMao y o63Hp Maxom OHy ny6^HKy Koja HMa H3BecHa HayqHa HHTepecoBaH>a, h o6patjHBao caM ra nHTaita OHaKo KaKO ce
OHa MaxoM o6pat)yjy y HeiwaqKOJ h cj)paHuycKOj jihtcpaTypH, c tom caMO pa3;iHKOM ujto caM y MHorHM aiyqajeBHMa #aBao onuiTa Hay^Ha o6jaiDH>ett>a o nojeAHHHM reorpa(J)CKHM nojaBaMa h HayqHHM TeopnjaMa.
Flope^ Tora caM yêmaBao cboj p:mhhk h HanHH H3Jiaratba TaKO a cy aouhhjh nojMOBH 6h;ih y janoj
Be3H c npBHMa. Mhgjihm #a caM y MHorHM TaKHM oiynajeBHMa ycneo â 6yêM jacaH, a kojihko caM 6ho
HHTepecaHTaH oAJiynHhe HHTa;iaqKa ny6/iHKa.
OHe reorpa(})CKe nojaBe Koje cy o6pal]eHe y ohom
iieny Kibnre r\ne ce roBopn o o6;iHUHMa 3eMJbHiiiTa.
HHcy caMO Ba>KHe 3a pa3yMeBatbe AaHaujtbHx aHTponoreorpa(j)CKHx ojiHOca Beh cy caMe no ce6n tojihko hhTepecaHTHe h 3aHHMJbHBe Aa he hx Mohn MHTaTH CBaKH
ko bojih npHpo^y h ko ce HHTepecyje nnTatbHMa Ha
npnpo^HHX HayKa. IlpHKa3yjyhH HaJHOBHJy reo;ioiiiKy
npoiHJiocT o6;iacTH HoBe Cp6nje, h o6jaiHtbaBajyhH
nâcTHKy tbHxoBa 3eM/bHniTa, ja caM ymao y o6;iacTH
je^He HayKe Koja je y HaJHOBHje BpeMe ynHHHJia 3HaTHe
HanpeTKe, a o KOJHMa Hauia ny6;iHKa Aocaaa HHj'e hhKaKO o6aBeiiiTaBaHa. TaKO he iunpa cpnci<a ny6;iHKa ca#a
y OBaKBOM o6^HKy h Ha OBaj HanHH npBH nyT, Mohn #a
ce yno3Ha c paÔM h3bcchhx npHpoziHHX cn/ia Koje Ha
3eMajbCKOj noBpuiHHH Bpiue orpoMHe noc/iOBe, h Koje
cy 3a opraHCKH >khbot Ha 3eMJbH h jbyzicKy KyjiTypy
oa Heo6HHHO Be;iHKor 3na iaja. TaKaB je Ha npBOM MeCTy pa# TeKyhnx BOâ, kojh ce BpmH no craJiHHM, ca/*a
npH.aHHHO 06pO HCnHTaHHM 3aKOHHMa, H y KOMe OTKpHBaMO to/ihko CHCTeMe h nopeTKa â HaM Taj pa# ne;
nPE/iroBOP
cto Ha^HHH Ha paa cbcchhx 6Mha. TanaBJeH paa npocrpaHHX je3epcKHx BOâ Koje cy, y H3BecH0 reo/ioniKo
BpeMe, CBOJHM HeH3MepHHM, n.iaBHM H TajaHCTBeHHM
uacaMa 3axBaTa.ne orpoMHe npocropHJe Ba^KaHCKor
no^yocTpBa h ocTaBH.ie y n;iacTHUn cpncKHX 3eMajba
BeoMa MHoro TparoBa. HL>hxobh TaâcH cbojom yaaphom CHaroM npeHHanaBa^H cy h Moê^Hpa^H noTajiaibe
o6^HKe 3eMa:bCKe noBpuiHHe h 0CTaBH;w MHoro6poJHe
TparoBe CBora ayror h HeyMopHor pa#a.
HajBehe npHpo^He jienoTC HoBe Cp6HJe h hteH
HOHOC HHHHhe BCrtHKa je3epa, HapOMHTO OxpH^CKO,
flojpaHCKO h flpecnaHCKO, h MHoro6poJHa Ma;ia, h Heo6hmho >KHBonHCHa je3epa no BpxoBHMa ILIape, Kopa6a, riepHcrepa h ApyrHx n/iaHHHa. JeiiHa HapoMHTa
rviaBa y Hauioj kh>h3h nocBehena je onHcy thx Be/iHkhx je3epa, y KOMe cy H3HeceHe npHpojiHe oco6nHe
HdHxobc BOjxe h h>hxob yiHuaj Ha OKo^HHy.

CBa OBa (})H3HMKO-reorpa(j3CKa npoMaTpaâ H3HeceHa cy y onniTeM neny K^Hre. Ha npBOM Mecry y
KeMy je npHKa3aH reorpadpcKH no;iO)Kaj HoBe Cp6Hj"e,
a y noce6HOM neny onncaHe cy nojenHHe Behe o6nacth h npHKa3aH je >khbot napOAa y ibHMa. FlapTHJa o
reorpa(j)CKOM nojiowajy h onwcn nojczmHHx o6;iacTH
nanncaHH cy TaKO aa he hx moHh npoMHTaTH OHa n>6^HKa Koja y onujTe iHTa KibHre. Ty cy H36eraBaHa
CBa o6janin>ejba h CBe Teopwje, h ue;ie nnaBe 6aBe ce
cauHM onHCHMa o6;iacTH h npHKa3HBatt>eM npn/iHKa h
oflHoiuaja OHaKHx KaKBe cy AaHac. y TOMe onejbKy jxao
caM onHC cbhx BapoiHH HoBe Cp6nje. Y3 onHce, no
HapoMHToj >Ke^H Tocno/iHHa CeKpeiapa CpncKe Kh>haceBHe 3a;ipyre, Aao ca^ u HdopHJe nojeziHHHX, napOHHTO Ba>KHHJHX BapOUJH. THMe CaM H3 oG.iacTH CBOJe
HayKe npenjan na 06/iacr iipyre Hayi<e, h cboj nocao
joui bhujc oroKao. HnaK caM ce rpyjxwo â CKynim
ujto bhujc nojiaTaKa o crcaBHOj npom/iocTH HaniHx BeHhx BapoujH. HeMoryhe je 6h/io #a 3a OBaKO KpaTKo
BpeMe aaM noTiiyne ciHKe tc npoin/iocTH. To npeBa3M/ia3H h Mojy CHary h Mojy cnpeMy. Ja caM noKyinao
5a re c/imkc, no Hajno?niaTnJHM pajiOBHMa, nonymiM h
i
npEaroBOP
VI
V4hhhm hx 3a HJHpy ny6/iHKy npHcrynaHHHJHM. Ako h

y TOMe 6yneu, 6ap aoHeKJie, ycneo, 6nhy 3aaoBOJbaH.
FIoâmH 3a OBaj pa.n y3eTH cy HaJBehHM azjiom
H3 no3HaTor pa#a Ochobh 3a reorpa(J)HJy h reo;iorHJy MaKenoHHJe h CTape Cp6Hje" on V. Rp. JoBaHa
U,BHJHha. y TOMe oncoKHOM ,ne;iy Koje je paêHO Ha
HajiuHpoj HayMHOj ochobh, Hamao caM noâTKe CKOpo
o CBHMa nHTa^HMa i<oja cy Morvia HHTepecoBaTH hhTaânKy ny6miKy. H3 tbera cy je^HHO y3eTH noaaTUH
o HaJHOBHjoj reoôiiiKOJ nponuiocTH, 3aTHM onncH nojcuhhhx odrcacTH, na naK h noje^HHHX BapouiH. FlojxaTUH Tora Rena MaxoM cy npepaijeHH y H3BecHoj MepH
jxa 6h 3a ny6;iHKy nocrajm npHcrynaHHHJH. OnnceHeKHx
o6âcTH h npHpo^HHx nojaBa ja caM y Mojy KH>Hry

yHocHO HenpoMeHDeHe H3 V. U,BHJHheBe KtbHre. To caM
hhhho ouRe rê je T. UbhjhH y 36HJeHy o6;iHKy RaBao pe3HMe cbojhx ona>KaH>a h HcnHTHBatba y nojeHHhhm o6âcTHMa. Ta MecTa ce o;yiHKyjy h3bcchhm
oco6HHaMa crHJia, a KaTKa.n cy to y6oKe nimne hmnpecHJe caMor HcnHTHBaqa kojh je^Hy o6;iacT HenocpeAHO oceTH, h 36or Tora 6u CBaKO npepat)HBaH>e
Tora MaTepnaâ hid;io caMo Ha LUTeTy jacHohe h hhTepecaHTHocTH. 36or Tora caM Hamao 3a noTpe6HO na.
TaKBe onwce yHocHM HenpoMeiteHe. CBa MecTa Koja
cy no,n 3HauHMa HaBO.ua yHeceHa, i\n,e to Hapo^HTO
HHJe HanoMeHyTO, y3eTa cy H3 cnoMeHyTora T. U,BHJHheBa
ae;ia. CaMo je Reo HacTpaHH 114 y3eT H3 Rena I\ K.
KocTHha TproBaHKH ueHTpH h nyTeBH". Ha hcth caM
HaqHH nocTynHO h c ohhcom cnoncKe qapuiHJe or V.
OojaHa HoBaKOBnha h ohhcom >KHBOTa ApHayTauja y
JlpeHHUH or F. Tonopa CTaHKOBHha. nope/* obhx ynoTpe6jbaBaHa cy h Aejia ^pyrHx nncaua, Koja hy npH
Kpajy OBor npe^roBopa UHTHpaTH.
Ho6poTOM Mor 6HBuier HacTaBHHKa a caâ mhHHCTpa npocBeTe V. by6oMHpa JoBaHOBHha, ao6ho caM
or MHHHCTapcTBa npocBeTe noMoh c kojom caM nponyTOBao BehH Reo HoBe Cp6Hj'e h nonyHHO OHe noiiaTKe Koje caM 6ho CKynno MHTatbeM JiHTepaType. Ha
thm nyTeBHMa no^HUHj'cKe h BOJHe BâcTH Hume cy
mh Ha pyny. HapoHHTy 3axBa/iHOCT ziyryjeM T. LiepoT
riPEiiroBOP
VII
BHhy, Ta.naiiJHjeM OKpy>KHOM Hane/iHHKy y CKonjby, h

T. AflHMnHhy, OKpy>KHOM Hawe^HHKy y Enm/by, kojh
cy Me HapoHHTO noMor/in npH HcnHTHBatby Hapo/mor
>KHBOTa h npH onHCHBatby Bapouin CKoruba h BnTOJba.
Tocnoiia ocfwuHpn npHêncKor rapHH30Ha h V. Ubctko
IleTpoBMh, AaHaiujbH npeiice^HHK npH-iencKe oniuTHHe,
6uj\w cy npeMa mchh y ripH/ieny BaHpejjHO npe^ycpeivbHBH. y FIpH3peHy MH je CBOJHM BCNHKHM no3HaBaft>eM
fIpH3peHa h n>eroBe HcropHJe Bp/io MHoro noMarao V.
CreBa JlHMHTpHJeBHh, peKTop 6oroaioBHJe. y FIpHIIITHHH H HbeHOJ OKO^HHH HHHHO MH je BC/IHKHX yC/iyra
3a nyTOBatbe h HcnHTHBatte BapoiuH pe3epBHH KaneTaH r. Jaiua HeHaAOBHh. riope^ Tora y CKon;by mh
je or Be^HKe kophcth 6ho moj luko/ickh iipyr r. Jla3ap
vlaHKy.noBHh, a y E>HTo;by T. Zip. IleTap /Ia3apeBHh h
HêroBa rocnotja.
ripH H3paH KhbHre h npn ynoTpe6H .imepaType
noMara;m cy Me cbojhm caBeTHMa HaniH no3HarH HayneihauH: V. V. by6oMHp JoBaHOBHh, flaB/ie [lonoBHh,
JoBaH TomhH, CTaHoje CTaHOJeBHh, Kocia KocthH, Up.
Thxomhp 'fropêBuh. 3a onnce Bapoiun y 06/iacrH
CTape PaiuKe noKynHO mh je HaJBehn #eo nojiaTaKa
moj yqeHHK I\ ISopê rionoBHh. F. riaB;ie FIonoBHh,
kojh je 6ho TaKO by6a3aH na npoHHTa moj pan y pyKonncy, cbojhm yMecHHM npHMeA6aMa yquHHo mh je
bckhkhx ycnyra.
npo(|)ecop JoBaH IIbhjhIi ao3bojiho je aa ce
Kapia Koja je npn.io>KeHa y3 obo zie/io H3pajw y Feo
rpac{)CKOM 3aBO^y yHHBepcHTera, h aonycTHO mh je
aa ce noc^y>KHM 4)OTorpacJ)HJaMa Koje cy ac/iom \beroBa .THHHa CBOJHHa, a ac/iom CpncKor Feorpac})CKor
.
T
.
3aaojia.
riopeA I. UBHjnheBHx, y H^ycrpoBanoM Ac.iy OBora

ynoTpe6êHe cy (})OTorpa({)HJe OBe rocnoiie: Mh/i.
bopojeBHha, Xp. UpHHôBHha, JbyCnmc Ba;iHha, .by6oMwpa IleTKOBHha, KaneTana M. FleJHHHOBHha h Bace
4e;ia
Paay/ioBHha.
Cboj HMenoBanoj rocnojH HCKpeHa Ciaroâpuocr!
Ha Kpajy 6e/ie>KHM OBe nncapcKe h ujTaMnapcKe
VIII
^PEz^^0B0i-
rpeuiKe: Ha c. 73, 6 pe# 03,ao, ctojh Jla3ta3e m. Jlanza3e, h 7 pea 03iio, ctojh ApMan m. Api/an; c. 125,
8 pea 03ro, ctojh (-BfiAe(5<Wgj m. Bmogoz; c. 143, 19
pea 03,n;o, ctojh JXayMipiiKa m. JlayAtyiiKa c. 124, pea
1920, Fw KHHeey Tpe6a aa oTna^He; c. 253, pea 14
03^0 ctojh yeuJbenoM m. U,eujbeHOM\ c. 254. pea 12
03ro, ctojh Ih)irx)i([va m. TLoizdoiava.
;
J.
A-
H T E P A T y
:\
1.) J.
Uaajuh,
A,
Ochobh reorpaupHie
h reo;iorHJe
ManeÔHMJe h Crape Cp6nje. Beorpa/i 1906 1911.

2.) Hcto Ha HeMaqKOM.
3.) ./. Cvi/ic, Die tektoniin
der Rhodoppenmasse. Wien 1902
schen Vorg&nge
4.) /. Cvijic, Die
(H3iiaft>e 6em<e aK'êMHJe Hayna).
K)4.
:>.)./. HeuTektonik der Balkanhalbinsel. Wien
iuhy, fpynHca^be Hapo;ia Ha Ba;iKaHCKOM Flo/iyocTpBy.
Beorpaa 1913.
6.) G77. HoeaKoeuh, CMopaBeHa Bap7.) Cut. /7c>tftf/aw////, BajiKaHCKa
Jiap. Beorpaa 1894.
nHTan>a m Maiê HcropujcKO-no/iHTHMKe 6e/ieuiKe o
Ba^KaHCKOM Ilo-ayocrpBy. Beorpan
1906.
8.)
Cm.
FIpHJien y npBOj iio/ih XIV. Bena. IViac

Kociiia Kocmuii, TproBaqKH ueHTpH fl flpymobh no cpncKOj
y cpeflibeM h hobom BeKy.
Beorpa.il 1900.
10.) &ctupe6oerb H. G, Grapa Cep6i>i
11.)
h A^6aHH'/f. CnuMeHHK Cpn. Kpa.n. Ai<a;i 11
HoeaKoiuih.
80.
9.)
H.cmpe6oerb II. C, 06i>maHH n iciiHTypeuKHxiCep6oBi.

C. NeTepc6ypn>. (886. L2.) Dr. K. Jiredek, Die Handelsstrassen und Bergwerke \on Serbien uhd Bosnien.
Pra^ 18
Hcuiu, Die Siaat und Gesellschaft im
mittelalterliclien Serbien. Wien 1912
14.) Aww/rr., I'paa
CKonne. no pe(})epaTy K. Kocmha y JIpervieAy reorpa(J)CKe .iMTepaType BaAicaHCKor Io/iyocrpBa" cBecKa
J. Xdiiii-HnciLhCDuh, Vpan Bhto.m., y 5paCTBy"j
15
)
CTapa CnGwja, KyManoscKa oG.iacT.

Beorpa^ 1909. - 17.) Jb Koeaneeuh, IIpH.ien. Bejiec,
Oxpua, y ..BpacTny* kh>.
18.) BpanucAas Hytuuh,
C KocoBa Ha cHii.e Mope. Beorpaa 1902.
19.) Ileum.
16.)
flciuu, .ly>KHa
I.
Kocobo.
20.)
Onue
3eilJbe
rpyUieeuh,
napo/ia.
OxpH.iy h
Hobh Ca/i V
OxpnacKOM .lenepy.
nPEAroBOP
X
IlpeuiTaMnaHO
1900.
rpa;i
H3 nUapurpa^CKor FâcHHKa". U,apH21.) racuion rpaeuje, HoBona3apCKH
GaHuaK. Beorpa^ 1913.

22.) Mean KocaHHuh, Honona3apcKH CaHuaK h iberoB cthh^kh npo6/ieM. Beorpan. 1912.
23.) floil Bozdan JlaAeeuh h Mean UpoM
iuuh, BacojeBHhH y TypcKoj rpammH. Hacejba kh>. HI.
24.) IJeiuap MpKOwuh, Cpejute FIoTapje h FIoJiHMJe.
..Hacejba" khd. I.
25.) BeAU ch A, Cep6bi h Bo/irapbi
B-b 6a^KaHCKOMb coK)3i. C. neTepc6ypr'b 1913.
26.)
Hacejba" kk>.
Pucuia HuKOAiih, KpaJHiDTe w B/iacnHa
VIII.
27.) Ilopdanij Msanoeiy, CiiBepHa MaKcuoniH.
Go(J)hh
1906.
28.) Dr. Jos. Mailer, Albanien,
Rume-
und osterreichisch-montenegrinische Grenze.

Prag
1844.
29.) CiueeaH CuMuh, JIcchobckh MaHacmp,
Beorpaji 1913.
30.) Todop CiuaHKoeah, flyTHe 6e.ieniKe no CTapoj Cp6uJH 1871
1898. Beorpajx 1910.
31.) He6ap h iberoBa okojihh3, on, M. M. BeJb., yqnTejba. BpacTBo" VIII.
32.) Ceeiuo3ap ToMiih, CKonlien
CKa
UpHa Topa. Hacejba
cpiiCKHx 3CMajba u Kib.
III.
Putovanja po balkanskomu poUmj.

Rad" Jug. Ak. Zn.
knj. 42.
34.) CpncKe crapHne no Mai<enoHHJn. BejieuiKe
c nyTOBaiba apxwMaHzipHTa AHTonnna or roAHHe 1865.
CnoMeHHK Cpn Kpajb. Ak. IX.
35.) Jos. Muiuko8iik, KocoBCKa 6nTKa. Beorpa;j. 1890.
36.) Co6paHie coHHHeHin A. ruAhcfiepdunza. ToMb TpeTift. Boomi,
33.)
Petar Matkovic,
iuotoku srednjcga vieka.
neiepc6yprb
h Ciapa Cep6ni.
C.
KondaKoaii, MaKe,noHifl. Apxeojiorn iieCKoe nyTeiuecTBic. C. neTepc6yprb 1909.
38.) Xclh
J r., nyroBahbe Kpo3 nopemmy JtpHHa h Bapâpa.
IlpeBCO Mhx. Hhk. MjihH. Beorpa/i 1876.
39.) Andpa
CuiecfiaHOBuh, CTapa cpncKa upKBeHa apxmeKTypa h
>i>eH 3Haqaj. CpncKH Kn>H>KeBHH I/iacHHK" 1903.
FepueroBHua
1873.
37.)
J.
a.
C A
P >K A
J.
\HA
OnuiTH
jieo
rpozpaipCKii Cio.iOMcaj
1.
OniuTe oco6HHe reorpa4)CKor
2.
Be3e ca cyce.tHHM
no;icKaja
...
3CM.i>a.Ma
i TaaBHe cao6pahajHe .iHHuje
11
4.
HaJBaAHHJH
iieo
HoBe Cp6Hje. Ba.iKaHCKo je3rpo
Oqaiihu 3eM.hiiiuiua
II
OCHOBHH
22
H fipB06HTHH
OO.IMUH (yTMliajti VMVTap-
h>hx 3evia.hCKHX cn.ia)

II
Pa.iBHTaK o6/iHKa
17
22
(Pan cno.i.Hnx
....
cn.ia)
33
.Icjctbo je3epcKe Boae

1.
ErejcKo j23epo
2.
Paj TeKyhHx
fterosH yTHitaJH
47
uo.aa
a)
PeMHH
0)
HeKO.iMKo HHTcpecnuTHtix
MOpCKH C.1HBOBH
18
iiojana
pciHHM
50
AOaHHavfa
b)
McTopnj.1 paiBHTKa peMHnx joamia
'0 TparoBH najcTapujHx pcwHHX no.iHHa

p)
Bapaapa
IIocTaHaK
Jberona
.56
pc iHOi
i
C.1HB.1
Y) IIoCTaiiaK HCKIIX
Hi
BeAiiKa je3epu
UHU1HX HOHplIlM
y Hoeoj Cp6uju
II>hxobc (Jnhhukc oco6hhc

I.
OxpiiACKO le.iepo
'
3.
....
....
...
IpCCIiaHCKO it iCp<>
AojpaHCKO Ictcpo
lloceoHii ,ieo
Onnc nojeAMHHx
1
fopttt fJoeapdapje
o(5/iacTM m
moctb
XII
CAflP>KAJ
CTPAHA
BapoiiiH ropn>er IloBap/iapja
II
1.
CKorube
2.
KyMaHOBO
3.
Be.nec
124
4.
LllTHn
127
5.
129
6.
KpaTOBo
KpHBa na.naHKa
7.
Te-roBo
132
8.
TocTiiBap
133
MaAeiu
106
.
121
131
okoauhom Konana u Padoeuiuiua
135
III
TuKeeuiKa kowlauhci
143
IV
Mopuxoeo
146
KOiuAuna u BoJMuja
VI JXojpan u hbezosa KoiaAuna
VII Ouiuiue ocoduue Jyjicne MaKedomije
VIII
IX
a)
BeefjeAiijcKa
149
151
....
CoAyn
3auadna MaKedouuja
Bpcjanna o6;iacT
1.
6hto.i>
2.
npujien
3.
Oxpim
4.
Grpyra
5.
Kpymeso
Flopeq,
166
194
202
211
217
:
6) Zle6ap h
b)
157
163
H>eroBa
OKO^HHa
218
222
KnqeBO h KonaM
226
X KocoecKa Ciuapa Cp6uja

a)
6)
b)
r)
Kocobo h MeTOXHja
Kocobo riojbe
MeTOXHja c okojihhgm npH3peHa
BapouiH Kocobckc Crape Cp6Hjc
230
232
....
....
244
250
HOflpHMCKO-MCTOXHJCKC BapOIIUI
npHripcn
253
2.
neh
261
3.
ToaKOBHua
1.
Kocobckc
BapoiuH
Hobo
Tpvi
262
x<e7ie3Hii'iKc
'.aGaMCHOi
Bapoma
263
268
no/io>Kaja
270
ISpao
naj3iia'jajHHja crioMeHHKa ciape
cpncKe ny/nype
272
CAP>KAJ
XIII
Ciuapa PauiKa
BawHWjt oo.iacTH h npeac.iH
275
XI.
BapouiH
1.
Oape
281
PaniKe
Hobh naâp
290
2. ripHjeno.i>e
293
4.
BepaHe
CjeHHua
295
5.
HoBa Bapoui
297
3.
7.
294
njbeB.-be
296
flpHGoj
301
HOBA CPBMJA.
OniUTH AEO.
Il-)l.\
IUIIA
1.
PEOrPAOCKM
nOJIOKA.I.
HMa H3BecHa cyMa nojaBa Koje yTHMy Ha oniuTC

npnpo;iHe oco6nHe CBaKe 3eMê h Koje cy H3pa>KeHe
y >KHBOTy CKOpo CBHJy Hapojia. CBe Te oco6HHe
MO>KeMO noAe.THTH y OBe ^Be rpync. ripBy rpyny caMHJbaBajy OHe oco6hhc Koje ,no;ia3e on oniUTer no/io>Kaja je^He 06/iacrH Ha 3eMa;bCKOJ Kpy;bH h on h.chhx
Be3a c Be/iHKHM 3eMa/bCKHM MopHMa h KonHHMa. Jlpyry
rpyny caMHn>aBajy OHe oco6HHe Koje AO/ia3e on Be3a
ca caBpeMeHHM Ky;iTypHHM uempHMa h cbctckhm caoGpahajHHM /iHHHJaMa. Ha noc/ieTKy, y OBy ;ipyry rpyny
cna/iajy h OHe ocodHHe Koje nona3e on. npaBua h npnpojiHe janHHe p>KaBHHx rpaHHiia h Bcaa ca cyce^HHM
^p>KaBaMa h Hapo^HMa. 06e OBe rpyne nojaBa oapeiivjy
OHe oco6HHe Koje cy no3HaTc no hmchom oco6uhu
zeozpacpcKO? uo.wxcaja. FIpeMa TOMe, Mcljy oco6nHa.via
reorpacf)CKor no/iowaja CBaKe 3CM:ie pa3.nnKyjeMO Bc
Bpcre, on kojhx npBy BpcTy mhhc iberoBe npnpo;ine
oco6hhc, a Apyry JberoBe Ky/iTypHe h iio/ihthmkc
ocoChhc.
OHe oco6HHe kojc AO/ia3C on onniTcr no.iowaja
je;me 06/iacTH Ha 3c\ia:bCKOj noBpujHHH h on h.chhx
Be3a ca cbctckhm MopHMa h bc.thkhm KonmiMa, yrwty
Hajnpe na k/ihmckc oco6hhc CBaKe 3cm.i>c, a npcKo h,hx
iia tben cno^HH H3rncn h Ha >khbot êna napoja. Jep
woje cy 6/iH>Ke
je no3naTo na CKopo CBe one BeM/bC
eKBaTopy h bc/ihkhm cbctckhm MopHMa HMajy Mnoro
6.na>Ky K/iHMy h jpyK'injy (Ji/iopy h
npnpcsAy on omi\
HOBA CPBHJA
3eMa;ba Koje cy 6;w>Ke 3eMa/bCKHM noAOBHMa h Koje cy
oa Mopa najhe yByneHe y Be;iHKe 3eMajbCKe kohthhchtc.
Hcto TaKO no3HaTO je Aa he OHe 3eMJbe Koje cy
6nu}Ke caBpeMeHHM ueHTpHMa jbyACKe KyjiType h Koje
AOAHpyjy Ba^KHe jiHHHj'e CBeTCKor cao6pahaja, moHh
yqacTBOBaTH y caBpeMeHOM jbyACKOM KyjuypHOM

paAy h )KHBOTy, Jep KyjiTypaH, y CMHCJiy oniiiTe JbyACKe Ky^xype, MOHce 6hth caMO OHaj HapoA kojh je y
crajmoM h HenocpeAHOM AOAHpy c HaJKyATypHHJHM
3eMâMa h HapOAHMa.
jiaKuie
CpncKH HapoA
je
HacejiHO 3eMJbe
Koje cy join
oa ncmeTKa cpeAH>er Bena 6#Jie noA yTHuajeM ABajy,

y to BpeMe HaJBa)KHHJHx KyjiTypHHx cpeAHHa, rpHKOBH3aHTHJCKe H HTaJIHJaHCKO-pOMaHCKe Ylon yTHuaJHMa
thx ABajy Ky^Typa oh je y CpeAft>eM Beny no4eo Aa
pa3BHJa CBOJy HapOMHTy cpncny Kyjuypy, hhjh cy Haj60JbH OCTaUH oqyBaHH y MHOro6pOJHHM upKBaMa H
MaHacTHpHMa HoBe Cp6Hj'e. HouHHJe, npeno BH3aHTHJCKe KyjiType Aomao je caoj MycjiOMaHCKO-apancKe
Ky^Type, mhjh cy yTHuajn 6hjih 3HaTHO H3panceHH CKOpo
y CBHMa cpncKHM 3eMJbaMa, a HaJBHiue y 3eMjbaMa Koje
caqHtbaBajy HoBy Cp6HJy. Ha Taj HanHH cpncKH HapoA
ce Ha;ia3HO Ha craAHOJ npenpeTHHUH yTHuaja bcnhkhx
Ky^TypHHx ueHTapa.
y Hobom BeKy Ky;rrypHH eBponcKH ueHTap noMepeH je H3 HTa^HJe y CpeAft>y EBpony. Haj6;m>Ke h
HajjiaKuie Be3e H3Mel)y CpeAH>e EBpone h HOiaMCKor
OpHeHTa HAy npeno cpncKHx 3erviajba, h to MopaBCKOBapâpcKOM aojihhom. Ha Taj HanHH nojaqaHa je Ba>Khoct reorpa(})CKor nojioataja cpncKHx 3eMajba, jep, nopeA
Henocpe^HHx Be3a ca ueHTpHMa caBpeMeHe JbyACKe KyAType, ao6hah cmo h jeAHy oa HajBa>KHHJHx cbctckhx
cao6pahaJHHx ./iHHHJa. Ta AHHHJa cboj'hm HaJBehHM jienoM
MAe Kpo3 AocaAaimty H K p 03 HoBy Cp6HJy. riocjiczuba
AP>kh HaJBa>KHHJe TanKe Tora nyTa.
C rjiejiuuna obhx pa3HOBpcHx oco6HHa npOMaTpaheMO reorpa(})CKH no;io>Kaj HoBe Cpdnje, h noKyluaheMO Aa OApeAHMO HeKaAamifcy h caAauifoy BpeAhoct nojeAHHux Ba>KHHx cao6pahajHHx AHHHJa, h ohhx
06/iacTH Kp03 Koje OHe npo;ia3e.
rEOfTA'M KH nO/IO)KAJ
OnujTe oco6HHe reorpa(J)CKor nojiowaja.

Crapa Cp6Hj'a h MaKeziOHHJa Ha/ia3e ce H3Meljy
1.
39 56' 50" h 43 u 38* 25" ceBepHe uiHpHHe h H3Met)y

36 34' 45" h 42" 27' 40" hctohhc jxymnne no $epckom no^HeBKy. PbHxoBa noBpniHHa Be^HKa je 74.709
km-. Or ao catamite Cp6Hj'e Behe cy 3a 26.409 km-, a
ByrapcKe Maibe 3a 24.000 km.- Tpaon. nocajiauiihQ
HHue cy hm y r.iaBHOM oBe: OKyKa peKe BHdpHue
Ha jyry, ceBepHa rpaHHua HoBona3apcKor CaHuaKa na
ceBepy, ROJiuna UpHor UpHMa Ha sana^y h MecTe na
HdOKy. 06e 3eMê Ha;ia3e ce y cpejiHHH Ba/iKaHCKor
FIo^yocTpBa, h Ha Taj HanHH #o;iHpyjy ce CKopo ca
CBHMa 6a^KancKHM 3eMJbaMa. 36or Tora cy y npnpoziH
obhx 3eMaâ H3pa>KeHe npHpouHe oco6HHe pa3HHx rqzioBa Ba/iKaHCKor I~Io;iyocTpBa, Koje ce cbojhm BeliHM
,ie;iOM Haâ3H y ohoj o6;iacTH Koja ctojh uor yTHuajeM npHpo^HHx oco6HHa Cpe/u)3eMHor Mopa, h Koja
no3Haia nca hmchom Me^HTepaHCKa 06;iacT. HnaBHe

npHpo^He oco6hhc Te o6;iacTH cy obc OHa npe/urraB. i>a
npeâ3Hy o6;iacT H3Metjy Be ^pyre 06/iacrH, Koje ce ozi/ihKyjy H3 OCHOBe pa3/IHHHTHM npHpoAHHM oco6HHaMa.
Ha ceBepy je Cpe^fba h CeBepHa EBpona, y KOJHMa
iiyBajy oueaHCKH BeTpoBH, h y KOJHMa KHiua nazta y
CBa Ro6a touhhc. Ha jyry je Caxapa, y kojoj ayBajy
cyBH BCTpoBH, h Koja je noTnyno cyBa, CKopo cacBHM
6e3 KHuie. MeAHTepancKa 06;iacT, Kao npe/ia3Ha o6/iacr
je
H3Metjy B;ia>KHe h yMepeHe cpejifee-eBponcKe k^hmc h

cyBe caxapcKe, npHMHâ je oco6hhc h je/iHe h iipyre
o6;iacTH. Or Cpe/iibe EBpone HMa hco6h i iho B/ia>KHe
3HMe, a or Caxape HCKJbyqHBO cyBa ;ieTa. C oBaKOM
k^hmom y Be3H je cno;t>HH usrnejx teM/bHuiTa, cnenna;iHO
iberoB najropibH 3eM.ianH c;ioj, kojh iiaje xpany 6n;by,
h kojh MHoro yTHMe na KapaKTcp 6H;ba, iberoB cno;bnn
H3Me^HHawHH ycntBaiba. no3naTO je â Me/iHTepancKa
BereTanHJa HMa obc oco6hhc: 3e.i>acie oh.i.kc yciieBajy
ixsa nyia y roiiHHH, y npo/iehe h y jecen, a nponaAajy
.iBa nyra, 3HMH h ;ieTH.
3hmh npona;iajy 3601 x/ia;iiiolie, .'icth a6or cyme. JXpseuacTQ 6hjukv o,viHKyj\
.iHiHliCM kojc HMa uBpcTy h cjajny nOBpUJHHy, 11 kojc
Odaje
11
up
,imc
3e/ieHO.
HOBA CPBHJA
OBe oco6HHe MeflHTepaHCKe 06;iacTH jaKo cy H3pa>KeHe y kjihmh h 6HJby MaKe/jOHHJe h Crape Cp6Hj'e. Te cy oco6HHe, y pa3HHM o6;iHUHMa, npo^pjie nym
Bapnapa CBe no KanaHHHKe lOmcype h npemeBCKor
pa3Bol]a. MaKeaoHHj'a h CKoncna CTapa Cp6Hja, c obhm
Me^HTepaHCKHM oco6HHaMa, pa3JiHKyjy ce oji cbhx ocra;ihx 3eMajba y yHyTpamtboCTH EIo^yocTpBa. To cy #aK;ie
OHe npHpo^He ocodHHe Koje je MaKeaoHHJH h Orapoj
Cp6HJH AOHeo HdHxob cBeTCKH nojio>Kaj h HbHxoBe Henocpe^He Be3e c ErejcKHM MopeM, npeMa KojeM cy
OTBOpeHe ay6oKOM h npocTpaHOM aojihhom Bapaapa.
Ca rê^HuiTa cnojbHHx h yHyTaptbHx cao6pahajhhx npH^HKa, 3a MaKeÔHHJy h Crapy Cp6HJy MCOKe
ce pehH #a HMajy HajnoBOJbHHJH nojioacaj Meijy CBHMa
3eMJbaivia Koje ce Ha;ia3e y yHyTpanitbocTH BajiKaHCKor
Ho/iyocTpBa. OHe HMajy HajsroAHHJe h HajKpahe Be3e
c o6a/iaMa JaapaHCKor h ErejcKor Mopa, a HenocpeflHO
ce AOAHpyjy CKOpo ca CBHMa 3eMJbaMa Ba;iKaHCKor
rio^yocTpBa. Ajih 3a Ty Heo6HHHy reorpa(J)CKy bathhoct MaKeaoHHje h CTape Cp6nje oa HaJBeher 3Hanaja
je to uito Kpo3 feHx npo;ia3H MOpaBCKO-BapâpcKa nojiHHa Koja hx aoboah y aowv ca 3eMJbaMa Cpe/tfbe
EBpone h ca CpeôseMHHM MopeM. Ta 3ro#Ha y3_ny)KHa
yô^HHa, Koja npeacraBJba HaJKpahn nyT H3Mel)y Cpe/tfbe
EBpone h Jyro3ana.zi.He A3HJe, yTHqe 3HaTHO Ha nojwTHMKy Ba>KHOCT Ba;iKaHCKor nojiyocrpBa. OBanaB TpaH3hthh 3Hanaj HeMajy h He Mory HMaTH ocTajia ABa MeAHTepaHCKa noJiyocrpBa, AneHHHCKO h nnpeHejcKO.
FIpeHMyhcTBa Koja Ba^KaHCKO fIo;iyocTpBO HMa npeA
hbHMa jecy OBa: oa EBpone HHje nperpatjeHo b&jihkhm
nâHHHCKHM 6eAeMHMa, Kao uito je AneHHHCKO h rinpeHejcKo; y npaBixy ceBep-jyr npoxoAno je h 3HaTHO CKpaheHo; Ha H3.na3y MOpaBCKO-BapAapcKe yAOJbHHe Ha/ia3H
ce ny6oK h npocipaH Co^yHCKH 3a;iHB, KaKBor HeMa hh
AneHHHCKO hh FlHpeHejcKo nojiyocrpBO. Obhm cbojhm
reorpa(})CKHM oco6HHaMa OA^HKyje ce BajiKaHCKO riojiyoctpbo h oa AneHHHCKor h oa IlHpeHejcKor, a Te Here
oco6HHe npeACTaBJbajy rviaBHH y3poK 36or Kora ce
nocê^Hâ no-nyocrpBa, y Be3aMa H3Me^y CpeAfoe EBpone
rEOrPA<t>CKH nOJIO/KAJ
h 5^H)Ker
HdOKa,
Ba/iKaHCKHM riojiyocrpBOM He Mory
hh ycnope^HBaTH.
2.
Be3e ca cyceAHHM
3eMJbaivia.
OHe oco6HHe
Koje cy Aoin/ie oa Be3a ca #ocaâujHDHM 6a^KaHCKHM 3eM^.aMa Tano cy H3pa>KeHe y

>KHBOTy MaKeixoHHJe h dape Cp6wje #a he ce OHe
36or
ocehaTH h no;i hobhm no;iiiTHHKHM npHJiHKaMc
Tora heMO tobophth o AOcaAanjHDHM rpaHHixaMa MaKeÔHHj'e h Ciape Cp6Hje He Kao o HeweM ihto h ca.ua
nocroJH, Beh Kao o rpaHHuaivia Koje cy nocroja/ie h
ocraBH/ie Tpara y OAHOiuaJHMa H3Met)y obhx h Apynix
6a;iKaHCKHx 3eMa;ba.
OHe 06/iacrH MaKeaoHHJe h dape Cp6HJe Koje
caHHH>aBajy HoBy Cp6HJy rpaHHHH;ie cy ce ca ceBepa
AOcaâHDOM Cp6HJOM h ByrapcKOM, c jyra ErejcKHM
MopeM, Teca/iHJOM h EnnpoM, ca 3ana.ua Ap6aHHJOM,
ca ceBepo3anana Bochom h XepueroBHHOM. npeMa nocêAH^HM 3eMâMa MaKeÔHHJa h dapa Cp6HJa HMajy
jaKe npHpoAHe rpaHHue, Koje HHHe bhcokc h Henpoxo^He n/iaHHHe, a caMO cy ca Cp6HJOM HMa.ie pa3HOBpcHe h /iane Be3e, Tano aa cy CBe Tpn 3eMJbe h no
caaa caMHH>aBa/ie jeHy cao6pahaJHy, a aoHeK/ie h
npHpoAHy ue^HHy. MaKeÔHHJa h dapa Cp6HJa y aocaâujibHM cbojhm rpaHHixaMa npeAcraBiba/ie cy je^Hy
.
caMOda^Hy, npnpo^HO orpaHHweny uer.HHy. HaJMBpiuha

h HaJHenpoxoflHHJa je 6H.ia rpaHHua npeMa ByrapcKOJ.
OHa je Hirnia noBHJapuHMa OcoroBa, Pine h Pomona.
ripeMa Cp6HJH p>Ka/ia ce Benua Fo/inja KonaoHHK,
npeMa UpHOJ Popn orpaHaKa FIpoK/ieTHja, a npeMa
Ap6aHHJHn/iannHCKor BeHua MoKpaHoCKa M/ianHHa Ja-
6.iaHHua.
OBe cy 3eM.-be jxzkjiq ca cbhx CTpaHa 3aTBopenc

Be/iHKHM h HenpoxoAHHM n;iaHHHaMa, caMO cy OTBopenc
Ha jyry npe\ia ErejcKOMMopy h Ha ceBepy npeMa Cp6HJn
h ao/ihhh MopaBe. 06e cy 3eM.-be, âKê, 3a cboj cao6pahaj ca cbctom H3BaH Ba/iKaHCKor rio/iyocrpBa 6n;ie
ynyheHe HCK;byqHBO Ha ErejcKO Mope h Ha Cp6HJy.
Hnje/ma oa yHyTpanjjhux 6a;iKaHCKHX 3eMa;i>a HHJe ca
HOBA CPBHJA
HMajia TaKO hhthmhc

h TaKO npnpoiiHe Be3e Kao uito hx je HMajia Cp6HJa
y reorpa(j)CKOM no;iO)Kajy obhx 3eMajba wvia TaKO
MHoro cjih^hhx h 3aje;iHHHKHx oco6HHa aa CBe TpH
3eMJbe caqHHDaBajy jeAHy caodpahajny uejiHHy Ha Baji-
CiapoM Cp6HJOM h MaKeAOHHJOM
KaHCKOM flojiyocrpBy. H3Metjy thx oco6HHa HCTahH heMO

caMO OBe. Kao iiito MaKe/ioHHJa y jy>KHOM ae;iy FIojiyocrpBa 3ay3HMa ueHTpa;iHH no/io>Kaj H3Met}y Ap6aHHje h TpaKHj'e, TaKO h Cp6wja y ceBepHOM neny jiokh
y cpezmHH H3Metjy ByrapcKe h Bochc Y o6e 3eMJbe,
h y Cp6HJH h MaKeAOHHjH ca CTapoM Cp6HJ0M, peKe
TeKy y MepH,zmaHCKOM npaBuy, h THMe ojiaKmaBajy
ycnocTaBJbaibe JiaKHx cao6pahaJHHx Be3a. Y MaKe.nohhjh Teny peKe y npaBuy ceBep-jyr, a y Cp6hjh y
npaBiiy jyr-ceBep. JXbq rviaBHe peKe, MopaBa h Bapaap,
to^hko cy y Ha3a^ noMepHJie CBOja pa3Boi]a aa h>h
xoBa BOnoê^HHua qecTO He npeAcraBJba HHKaKBe npenpeKe cao6pahajy. To je cjiynaj ca npeuieBCKHM actiom
Te BOô,ne^HHue, kojh npeacraBJba pa3BOê y jxojihhh
Oihb MopaBe bcjihkh
je 38.280 km.-, a c;ihb

BejiHKa
cy 66.205 km. 2
Bapâpa 27.925 km.- 06a 3ajeaHo
3a ao/iHHe obhx peKa Be3aHa je rjiaBHa 6a;iKaHCKa
KOMyHHKauHOHa jiHHHj'a, >Kejie3HHua Beorpafl Co/iyH,
hjiu noBHJy.
h Kao uito o6e ,aojiiiHe npeacTaBJbajy je;iHy cao6pahaJHy ^HHHj'y, TaKO hcto Cp6nja c MaKeAOHHjOM h OrapoM Cp6njoM CBe BHiue nocTaje je^Ha cao6pahaJHa h
KyjiTypHa uejiHHa.
Pa3^HKe Koje ce jaBJbajy y npHpcun ao catamite
Cp6nje h MaKeÔHHJe ca CTapoM Cp6njoM npe cy y
cranky #a roptbHM MOMeHTHMa ycnoBJbeHO jcuhhctbo nojaqajy ho â ra oaia6e. TaKe npnpoae cy pa3JiHKe y
kjihmh, BereTau.HJH h npnpoAHHM npoziyKTHMa, Koje
ycaoBâBajy 6oraTy Metjyco6Hy H3MeHy CHpOBHHa. Cp6Hj'a je HarHyTa y npaBuy jyr-ceBep, ynyheHa je Ha
EBpony h npHMHJia je MHore cneMeHTe cpe,nibe-eBponcKe nyjiType. MaKe/iOHHJa je, o6paTHO, HarHyTa
y npaBuy ceBep-jyr, ynyheHa je Ha hctohhc o6a;ie
Cpezio3eMHor Mopa, h totobo CBa je nojx yTHuaJHMa
Me^HTepaHCKe h BH3aHTHJcKO-UHHuapCKe Ky^Type. Hopen Tora, y MaKcnoHHJy h CTapy Cp6njy H36Hj'ajy
Cpe;iH>y
rtorPAt>CKH no/io>KAJ
MHorH TpaHCBep3a^HH iiyieBH kojh hx AOBOAe y aoahp

JaapaHCKor h JoHCKor Mopa. Cp6HJa TaKBHx
nyieBa HeMa, jep cy npnpoAHe /iHHHJe Y^KHue Hy6pOBHHK H HhUI KOCOBO CKaflap nO^HTHMKH 3aTBOpeHe. Cbh obh MOMeHTH yTHua/iH cy #a ce y>K mopaBCKO-BapiiapcKe y#ojbHHe BpiiiH BeoMa jana h BeoMa
>KHBa pa3MeHa npnpoAHHx npojiyKaia h Ky^TypHHx
yTHuaja. FlpeKO Cp6HJe, ManeAOHHJa h Crapa Cp6HJa
AOâ3e y jiojiHp ca Cpe^tbOM EBponoM, h npeKO H>e
npHMajy e/ieMeHTe cpeafoe-eBponcKe Ky/rrype. Cp6nja je
MopaBCKO-BapâpcKOM ao/ihhom npHMH/ia MHore e/ie
MeHTe BH3aHTHJCKO-uHHuapcKe Ky^Type, kojh ce HaJBHiue
ocehajy y o6/iHKy BapoiiiH, THnoBHMa Kyha h ft>HX0By
HaMeiiiTajy, HanHHy >KHBOTa, pa#a h BapouiKOJ houjh>h,
cneuHa^HO jkchckoj. flope^ Tora, thm cy nyTeM y Cp6HJy aolijjih MHorH 3aHaTH, BpcTe nêMeHHTHX Bohana
c o6a;iaMa
h Ky/iTypHor 6H;ba. Ha noc/ieTKy, Te ce 3ajcHHHKe Be3e

ocehajy aoHeK-ne y Tpa#HUHOHa;iHoj KH>H>KeBHOCTH, pa3HHM 06/lHU.HMa npHMHTHBHe HapO^He VMeTHOCTH, HapoHHTO HapOAHHM /IHpCKHM neCMaMa Ca n03HaT0M My3HKOM.
OBaKO pa3HOBpCHHX npHpoAHHx H Ky/nypHHx Be3a
c MaKeÔHHJOM h CrapoM Cp6HJOM HHJe HMa;ia Hnje^Ha
pyra 6a.iKaHCKa 3eM/ba, h y TOMe ca Cp6HJOM He
MO>Ke ce HHJe^Ha or ibnx hh ycnope^HBaTH H nope;i
.nocaAaiuH^Hx ho/ihthmkhx npn^HKa Koje cy HHHH/ie
Be^HKe cMcnbe obhm Be3aMa, yTHuaj 3roxiHHx npnPOahhx Be3a ycneo je jxa j\a cBora jaKor H3pa>Kaja. Ha
p6njoM
Taj HaMHH, Cp6HJa h MaKeôunja ca CrapoM
KyjiTypHa,
eKOHOMCKa
H
nocraHy
jeHa
ynyheHe cy jya
no/iHTH4Ka ue.iHHa. C yTHuajeM kojh y TOMe norneiiy Ha
,
<
MaKeôHHjy
Crapy Cp6njy Mowe bpujhth Cp6nja,
He MO>Ke ce ycnope/iHTH yTHuaj HHje;iHe apyre 6a.iKaHCKe iip>KaBe. H 36or Tora cy Be3e o6ejy 3eMa.i.a raKO
npHpoAHC.
Ojx MHoro Maimer cy nHawaja npupojuie BC3e h.-iMel)y Cp6nje h Kocobckc Crape Cp6nje. Ta Ma>a
H.HXOBa Ba>KHOCT 0;ia3H OA TepeHCKHX TeilJKOiia, oji
3a6aHenocTH npeMa rviaBHOJ KOMynnKauHOHOj .hhhhjh,
H Oa TCHJKHX IIO/1HTHMKHX IlpH/IIlKa KOJC Cy JOT
lena/ia cy tc
B/iaAa/ie y Kocohckoj Oapoj Cp6njn
I
HOBA CPBHJA
10
Be3e 6w\e oa MHoro Beher 3Haqaja, 36or Tora hjto je

Kocobo Cnaâp npeAcraBJbajia Haj3roAHHJH h
HajKpahH nyT H3 Cp6HJe 3a JaApaHCKO Mope. Taj nyT
y CpefltbeM BeKy 6ho je CKopo hcto tojihko Ba>KaH
Kao ihto je .ziaHac BaacHa MopaBCKo-BapAapcKa yAOjbHHa. To je 6wio y oho BpeMe KaA je HTajmja npeAcraBJbajia eBponcKH KyjuypHH ueHTap, a 3anaAHa 6a;iKaHCKa o6a;ia KyjrrypHy neoHy jiHHHJy BajiKaHocor
ITo^yocTpBa. 36or Tora cy qedo h uiHpetba cpncne
Ap>KaBe ynpaBJbaHa Hajnpe yroMe, npaBuy na cy Ten
OH#a cnpeTajia y MopaBCKO-BapAapCKy Ao;iHHy. Cboj
npBo6HTHH 3Hanaj Taj nyT He MO)Ke noBpaTHTH
oh
He MO)Ke nocTaTH rjiaBHa cao6pahaJHa apTepHJa BajiKaHCKor FIo^yocTpBa, na h KaA 6h ce H3MeHHJie no^HTHHKe npH^HKe Koje Ha H>eMy BJiaâjy, h KaA 6h ce
CB;iaflaJie cBe TepeHCKe h noJiHTHHKe TeuiKohe y aojihhh ilpHMa h Ha mcaobckoj o6a;iH. Ajih nouiTO HTajinja nocTaje CBaKH AaH CBe BehH noTpouiaq Hanrnx
CHpOBHHa, BancHocT OBora nyTa MOHte ce noBehaTH KaA
6h ce OACTpaHHfle cnoMeHyTe TeniKohe, KaA 6h ce H3BpUJH^H BCTIHKH TeXHHHKH paAOBH Ha MeAOBCKOJ H
Apa^Koj o6a;iH, h KaA 6h ce HaHHHHJia nym flpHMOBe
Ao;iHHe >Kejie3HHaa.
nâHHHCKH BeHau JaBOp ro;iHJa KonaoHHK He
canHHâBa OHaKO Be;iHKe npenpene 3a cao6pahaj Kao
luto hx npe^CTaBJbajy nâHHHe Ha rpaHHUH ByrapcKe.
y npBOM HMa 3roAHHx npece^HHa h penHHx ao/iHHa, KOJHMa cy AOcaAa hih;ih MaxoM KapaBaHCKH, a
Bpô peTKO kojickh nyTeBH. TaKaB je paiUKii uyui oa
PauiKe ao HoBor fla3apa, kojh je y cpeatbeM Beny
Hinao Ha Fleh, MeTOXHj'y h 3ctcko flpHMopje. 3aTHM,
oa Ba)KHOCTH MO)Ke 6hth h uLouaukko-kocobcku uyiu,
kojh H,zie oa KypinyMJiHJe npeno Flpenojiua 3a IlpHuiTHHy. flajbe cy no3HaTH h MopaecKu iiyule8u Hapohhto OHaj kojh HAe oa Bpatbe npeno THJbaHa 3a
flpHUJTHHy.
ByrapcKa npeMa MaKeAOHHJH h CTapoj Cp6HJH
HMaâ je npHpoAHe Bp;io TeuiKe rpaHHue. Ybnx cy cawHH>aBaâ BHCOKa, njiehaTa h tcluko npoxoAHa 6ma
OcoroBa, Pw;ie h PoAona. Oa caAa he Ta rpaHHua hhh
^HHHj'a
rEOrPA*CKH nOJIOMCAJ
11
BeHueM OcoroBa Ha MaêiuKe FI/iaHHHe, y npaBuy Ha

nâHHHy fbiayiu. 3a aocaaaiutbe rpaHHue H3Mei]y ByrapcKe h MaKeaoHHJe I\ UbhjhH Ka>Ke obo: H3y3eBiuH
A;ine h FIupeHeje, y EBponH HeMa Tano hbpcthx rpaHHua h BehHx npenpena cao6pahajy Kao ujto cy obh
u
36or obhx
MacHBH H3Meh)y ByrapcKe h MaKe#OHHJe
TepeHCKHx TeiuKoha ByrapcKa je cao6pahajeM o^BOJeHa
on Crape Cp6Hj"e h MaKeôHHJe. hfoeHe cao6pahaj*He
npH/iHKe ynyhyjy ByrapcKy Ha hctok h Ha jyro-HCTOK,
y npaBuy y KOMe TeKy tbeHe HaJBa>KHnje pene, y3
Koje ce Mory carpa^HTH Ba>KHe cao6pahaJHe ;iHHHje.
ByrapcKa ce pa3BH/ia y npaBuy thx cbojhx Ao;iHHa, h
3aTO je H3^y>KeHa y npaBuy sana^-HCTOK, Kao ujto je
CpoHJa ay>K MopaBCKO-BapâpcKe ao.ihhc H3Ay>KeHa y
npaBuy ceBep-jyr. CBe OBe TepeHCKe npH^HKe 6H;ie
cy y3poK ujto ce HHJe momo ny>Ke BpeMeHa BââTH
hh H3 ByrapcKe MaKeÔHHJOM hh H3 MaKcuoHHJe By.
rapcKOM.
3.
TâBHe cao6pahajHe jihhhjc
PeTKO ce r\ne MO>Ke Tano jacHO bhacth Kano nojeiXHHe HH3HHCKe /iHHHje, HapoMHTO penHe jxo^HHe, npey3HMajy na ce y.iory h 3Hanaj kojh nojeflHHHM o6;iaCTHMa Aaje ibuxoB reorpacJ)CKH no;io>Kaj. TaKBe peMHe
ao/ihhc napoHHTO MopaBe, Bapaapa h Mapnue, 6mc
cy on HecyMFbHBa yTHuaja Ha Ky/iTypHa h HcropHJCKa
KpeTaiba, Ha o^pa30Baibe #p>KaBa h na pacnopeA Hapo.ua
Ha Ba^KaHCKOM no/iyocrpBy. Ojx cbhx BehHx eBponcKHX
no^yocrpBa, Ba/iKaHCKO ce o;yiHKyje THMe ujto HMa
3ro,ine y3/xy>KHe KOMyHHKauHJe h ujto HHJe, Kao AneHHHCKO H riHpeHejCKO, OJX EBpOne OABOJeHO BCHHKHM
nâHHHCKHM BenuHMa. Ha Ba/iKaHCKOM rio/iyocrpBy
HMajy Ba y3dyjfCHa uyfua, Koja ce cacrajy koa Hniua,
Uapurpaa. Ohh,
h to nyTCBH Beorpaa CciyH h Hhuj
HapoMHTO co.iyHCKH nyT, npeAcraB/bajy HaJKpahu nyT
H3Meljy Cpejiibe KBponc h CyecKor Kanaka. On nonpeHHHx nyTCBa OiyiHKyjy ce THMe ujto npe/ia3e 3ro;v
HHJHM pt'MHHM AO/IHHaMa, IUTO npO/ia3C Kp03 3CM/bC
noBO/bHHje nâcTHKc H BChc n.io^HOCTH h ujto HMajy
12
HOBA CPBHJA
3roAHHJe h Kpahe Be3e c HaJKyjiTypHHJHM eBponcKHM

ap>KaBaMa. Ho;iHHe MopaBe, Bapaapa h MapHue, Kpo3
Koje ohh uny, cacraBJbeHe cy oji npocipaHHx KOT;iHHa
Koje cy noBe3aHe peTKHM h KpaTKHM KJiHcypaMa; nocnejiibe ne HHHe hh npn6;iH)KH0 OHaKO Be;iHKe npenpene cao6pahajy Kao ujto ra HHHe KJincype Ha nonpeMHHM nyieBHMa. HeraKJiH cmo Aa hh npemeBCKo
pa3Boije Ha co^yHCKOM nyiy He hhhh HHKaKBy 036HJbHy
CMemy cao6pahajy. Teace cv TepeHCKe npHJWKe na
HHuiKO-uapHrpajiCKOM nyTy. Oh HMa aa npeê pa3Bolje
H3Mei)y HnuiaBe h HcKpa koa ZIparoMaHa 800 m. ancojiyTHe BHCHHe, h pa3B0ê H3Meijy HcKpa h Mapnue,
OKO 740 M. BHCHHe.
TepeHCKe CMera>e Koje ce jaBe Ha obhm nyieBHMa HHcy hh npH6jiH>KHO OHaKO BejiHKe Kao Ha nonpeHHHM nyTeBHMa. y3#y)KHH nyTeBH npo;ia3e Kpo3
o6âcTH pOAoncKor njiaHHHCKor CHCTeMa, kojh ce on/IHKyje Be^HKHM 6pOJeM npOCTpaHHX H nJIOIJHHX KOTJIHHa
h nêhaTHM n;iaHHHaMa, Koje cy pa3HHx npaBaua h peTKO
cy noBe3aHe y n/iaHHHCKe BeHue. IlonpeHHH 6a;iKaH*
ckh nyTeBH npo;ia3e Kp03 njiaHHHCKe o6;iacTH c bhcokhm,
rycTo 36Hj'eHHM, KpuieBHTHM BeHUHMa kojh npHnaâjy
HajcHpoMauiHHJHM o6;iacTHMa Ba^KaHCKor noJiyocrpBa.
3a y3^y>KHe nyTeBe, HapoHHTO 3a 6eorpaCKOco/iyHCKH nyT, on Be^HKe je Ba)KH0CTH h to ujto cnaja
njiojûy h 6oraTy FlaHOHCKy PaBHHiiy c o6a;iaMa ErejCKor Mopa. 3a tteroB npaBau h 3Haqaj, nopcn; HcraKHyTHx, or Be^HKe Ba>KHOCTH 6ho ]e h nojio>Kaj CojiyHCKor 3a^HBa. 06a;ia H3Mel)y CojiyHa h Op(J)aHa
ojiyiHKyje ce ^y6oKHM 3a;iHBHMa h npeflcraBJba Haj6ojbe
pa3yl]eHy 6a;iKaHCKy o6a;iy.
06a y3/iy)KHa nyTa HMajia cy Kp03 CBa BpeMeHa
bckhkh 3Hanaj 3a caoopahaj H3Met)y EBpone h npeatbe
A3HJe. 06a cy nyTa carpazuuiH PHMJbaHH, h ohh cy ocra/iH
rjiaBHH nyTeBH Bn3aHTHJCKe HMnepHJe. H3ivie.ua aa cy
ce norjiaBHTO ibHMa KpeTa^H noxo^H Amne h xyHCKHX
weTa, ABapH, Hctohhh Toth, y hcko^hko h Oiobchh.
ily>K 6eorpaflCKO-cojiyHCKor nyTa BpuiH ce HH3 Bapâp
uinpeFbe HeManHhcKe cpncKe Ap>KaBe. UapnrpaflCKHM
nyTCM npo/ia3e rviaBHH KpcraniKH noxo^H. Y npaBuy
rEOfPA'PCKU n0.10)KA.i
13
obhx yAo;bHHa none^H cy TypuH pacnpocTHpaTH CBOJy

Bâcr, h n>HMa cy cc Hajneiuhe Kpeiaê Be;iHKe TypcKe
bojckc hbHMa cy AycTpHJaHUH y XVII h XVIII BeKy
6hj\h npHBpeMeHo npoap/m Ha Ba;iKaHCKO rio/iyocrpBO,
h y o;ihhh MopaBe 6nne cy ce MHore Ba>KHe 6HTKe.
Hor/iaBHTO jxyya OBe KOMyHHKauHJe (J)opMHpa;ia ce Cph npeivia jyry ce paiunpHâ.
6Hj'a,
Ba>KHOcr MopaBCKO BapâpcKe y;xo;bHHe Kao Hajnyia h Kao pacKpcHHue HajBa>Khhjhx nonpenHHX nyieBa oceha ce y bcuhkom YTHuajy
kojh OHa BpuiH y >KHBOTy 6a^KaHCKHx Hapoâ. OHa
CBe BHiue nocTaje rviaBHH HOCH/iau eBponcne Ky^Type
h eBponcKor HaMHHa >KHBOTa, kojh ce nonpeMHHM nyTeBHMa CBe BHiue uiHpH y o6;iacTH 3ana/iHe h Mctomhc
MaKe/iOHHJe. y eTHorpa(f)CKOM norvieny OBa je ;iHHHja
BpniH/ia ABOcrpyKe yTHuaje. OHa je Ha noje^HHe neBa>KHHJer y3y>KHor
MaKeAOHCKor cTaHOBHHiiiTBa yTHuaâ H3Je;iHaMaBajyhn, h to je H3a3Ba;io jeAHO/wKocr napo^He cno-
;iOBe
BeHCKe Ky/iType y ue.iOM crcHBy Bapiiapa h Jy>KHe

MopaBe. C #pyre CTpaHe, BapâpcKa yôjbHHa npHByKâ je npe.Ma ce6n orpaHKe CBHJy 6a/iKaHCKHx Hapoâ,
h 36or Tora y itoj >KHBe noMemaHH CKopo cbh 6a/iKaHCKH Hapo^H. IlopeA cpncKo-cÔBeHCKe BehHHe, y
Ap6aHace,
aojihhh Bapâpa cpeiaMo OBe Hapoê
TypKe, a no CBHMa BapoujHMa 3HaTiie Mace TpKa h
UHHuapa. 3HaMaj BapaapcKe h MapHMKe ao/ihhc Typun
cy oceTH/iH OAMax, na cy join y noweTKy CBOje BJiacTH
Ha Ba/iKaHCKOM I~Io/iyocTpBy y o6e jxojihhq Hace/iH/in
Be^HKe Mace TypcKor craHOBHHLiiTBa. Ap6anacH cy ce
KpeTa/in BeHueM IUape h Kapaâra, npeiu^H cy AO/iHHy
Bapaapa h Hace/iH/iH ce y MaibHM oa3a\ia h c iberoBe
:
;ieBe CTpaHe.
Kao HajBa>KHHJa npe/ia3Ha
o6;iacT H3Mcliy
Ba/iKancKO IIo/iyocrpBO je npuByK/io

Ha ce Macy eBponcKHx h a3HJCKHx Hapoaa. II 36or
Tora HHi\ae ce y EBponn Ha TaKO Ma;ioM npocropy ne
cacraje TaKO MHoro pa3HOBpcnHx Hapoaa h paca Kao
na Ba^KaHCKOM rio/iyocrpBy. OiHKa Tor eTHorpaiJKKor
mapeHH.ia HHrê ce TaKO jacHo He bhah Kao y BapâpcKoj ao/ihhh.
6a.iKancKoj ooa.nn HMajy /iBe na/la jana/iHoj
HBpone h
A3Hj'e,
HOBA CPBHJA
\\
naMHUja
uotipenna
kojh o6a;ie JaapaHCKor

Mopa h o6âcrH ap6aHauiKHx njiaHHHa aoboac y aoahp
C MOpaBCKO-BapâpCKOM AOJIHHOM H C nJlOAHHM MaKeAOHCKHM H CTapO-Cp6HJaHCKHM KOTJIHHaMa.
3ana^Ha 6a;iKaHCKa o6a;ia oa PHJeKe (OujyMe)
uyiua,
AO TpqKe npeAdaBJba 3aTBopeHy MOpCKy o6ajiy. OHa

je y cbom ceBepHOM Reny TaKO pa3yêHa h 6oraTa 3a^HBHMa Aa ce c h>om y TOMe norjie^y Mory ycnopet)HBaTH caMO Hene eBponcKe o6a;ie. Ajih je Ta apTHKyjiauHj'a oa Maôr 3Haqaja 3a yHyrapHbH cao6pahaj
Ilo^yocTpBa,
th 3a;iHBH y sajieijy 3aTBOpeHH BHCOKHM, KpIlieBHTHM H HenpOXOAHHM BeHUHMa

kojh ce npy>Kajy napajie^HO c mopckom o6a;iOM. Th
BeHUH cy y3pOK uito 6oraTO pa3ytjeHa AaJiMaTHHCKa
o6a;ia He Moace Aa Ao6Hj'e cboj npaBH 3Hanaj. Pene
Ha 3anaAHOM Ae;iy BajiKaHCKor flojiyocrpBa, Koje TeKy
nonpeMHO Ha npaBau njiaHHHCKHx BeHaua, MaxoM cy
MaêHe, KpaTKa TOKa, aojihhc hm ce BeoMa peTKO 3aceuajy y HaJBHuie BeHue n/iaHHHa AHHapCKor h rpMKOap6aHCKor nâHHHCKor cHCTeMa. OBe HenoBOJbHe npHjihkc MeHbajy ce Ha jihhhj'h Cnaâp
MeTOxnja Kocobo.
Oko CKaâpcKe Kotjikhc njiaHHHCKH bchixh noBHJajy ce
H3 npaBua ceBepo3anaA-jyroHCTOK h npe;ia3e y npaBau
jyro3anaA-ceBepoHCTOK; ohh AaKJie Ha TOMe Mecry npeCTajy hHh napajieJiHo c o6ajiOM, Beh ujiy nonpenHo Ha
o6a;iy, h thmc ojiaKiuaBajy npncryn oa o6a;ie npeMa
yHyTpaujHDOCTH. y pa^Baivia TeKTOHCKor cyAapa AHHapckhx h rpqKO-ap6aHCKHx njiaHHHa kojh ce BpuiH y oboj
o6âcTH, h qHJa cy nocneAHua OBa noBHJafoa n/iaHHHckhx BeHaua, HacTaje hh3 tcktohckhx noTOJiHHa (kot;iHHa) Koje ce peâjy oa o6a;ie npeMa yHyrpauihbocTH.
Te KOT^HHe cy OMoryhHJie ;iaKuiH cao6pahaj H3Meijy
yHyTpauiHjOCTH h jaApaHCKe o6a;ie, h one cy 6hjiq
y3poK ujto je y CpeAfoeM BeKy Kp03 h>hx npo;ia3HO
no3HaTH 3eTCKH nyT, h uito je cKaAapcKa o6a/ia npeAcraBJbajia jeAHy oa Haj6oraTHJHx h HaJKyjiTypHHJHx
o6âcTH Ba^KaHCKor I~Io;iyocTpBa. 3a rpaêfce jeAHe
HopMa^He )Keê3HHHKe npyre oa Ba>KH0CTH je h to uito
cy OBe KOTJiHHe Mei)yco6Ho Be3aHe aojihhom Zlpnivia, h
uito hx OHa h3boah Ha MopcKy o6a;iy.
jep cy cbh
rEOrKVH.KH
no.io>KA.i
IS
Yc/iea OBora TeKTOHCKor cyKOoa MeH>a ce h npaHCTOHHe

jaapaHCKe o6a.ne. Mecro npaBua ceBepoBau
3anaA-jyroHCTOK, or MenoBe Ha jyry OHa HMa y rviaBHOM
npaBau ceBep-jyr. 36or Tora je ja^paHCKa o6a.na OBê
Hajjawe yrHyia h Mope je na\iiy6. he y KonHO npo;ip/io.
H3 obhx pa3ôra, h 36or 3rojHnJHX Be3a c yHyTpaiujboiuhy, MeÔBCKa o6ana 3a Be3e c MTa/iHJOM HMa/ia je
y CpeiiHbeM Beny 3Haqaj neoHe, HCTopHJcne h Ky^TypHe
o6a/ie. Cbh obh momchth ycjiOB;i>aBajy bc/ihkh 3Hanaj
dapor 3eiucK0^ vum CKa0apcKO-upu3peHCtwz iiyula.
CKaAapcKO-npH3peHCKH h;ih 3eTCKH nyT (129 km.
Ryr) no.ia3H or npHCTaHHLUTa MeÔBe h Hê CKaâpckom paBHHuoM ro ce;ia Mjeia, n3HaA Kora cy paBHHHe
cpe;ube-BeKOBHor JJan>a. Ty Hanyiina UpHMOBy K/mcypy,
Koja je 82 km. ^yra, h nociaje 6pacKH nyT. HaJBehe
bhchhc AOcrr.Hce Ha koch JUp3H (653 m.) h n/iaHHHH
flyKH (964 m
Kor Bacnaca, cpeAê-BeKOBHor Cb.
Cnaca, cnyujTa ce nonoBO y AO^HHy UpHMa, aajbe HRe
Kpo3 dpyTCKy paBaH Ha craBaMa Beôr h UpHor UpHMa,
Kpo3 o6/iacr ZbyMy h na ripH3peH. OziaBiie cy BORuna
Ba nyia; jeaaH Kpo3 a<yne CpeziCKy h ChphhhH, Ha
KanaHHK, a iipyrn 3a Jlnn/ban. IlpBH je 3HaTHO KpaiiH
or AaHamiber nyia Kpjn Hê Kpo3 UpHOJbeBCKH K/iaHau 3a VpoineBau (OepH30BHh). 36or Tora ujto ce
neibe Ha 3HaTHe bhchhc, h 36or Tora ujto ce Ha Tpn
Mecra (kor ce/ia TiepaTa, y ojancKOJ PeuH h koa XaHa
<t>;ieTa)
Mopa cnyniTaTH h npe/ia3HTH peMHe Ao;iHHe,
OBaj nyT He mojkc nocTaTH cao6pahaJHH nyT Beher 3Haqaja. HnaK y ;IpHMOBOJ K/iwcypn, 3aTO ujto je H3ay6eHa y MeKHM ({wihujhhm creHaMa h cepnenTHHHMa,
MO>Ke ce nanpaBHTH 3roAHa K&fteaHHmca npyra Koja
6h KocoBCKy CTapy Cp6njy H3B0iui/ia na o6a/ie âRpaHCKor Mopa. BacnocTaB.i.nibe cao6pahaja Ha obomc
nyTy HMa Ra ce 6opn h c iipyrHM TeuiKohaMa, Hapomhto c anapxHjOM Koja na OBOMe nyry B/ia;;a. Mcto
TO^HKy TcuiKohy cawHibaBahe h nHTaibe npHCTamiLUTa,
jcp je MeAOBCKa ziyica n.iHTKa, 3acyTa necKOM, He3aujTHheHa h H3ô>KeHa yâpuy jannx ceBepunx BCTpOBa.
36or Tora, h naR 6h ce ao/ihhom UpHMa npoBe/ia >kc
/ie3iiHMKa npyra, ohj 6h viopa/ia ,ia ce cBpujaBa h.ih y
j
).
HOBA (TBH.lA
16
npHCTaHHiiiTy h;ih Ha kom npHcraHHiHTy y

6;ih3hhh flpaqa.
Ha jyry on CKaâpcKe kottwhc, aojihhc JtpHMa
MeToxHje,
Hacrajy njiaHHHe rpHKo-ap6aHCKor cHcreMa,
h
kojh je ApyKMHJe nâcTHKe on miaHHHa .HHHapcKor chdeMa, Koje ce npyatajy on jby6jbaHCKe no CKaAapcKc
kot^hhc noc/ieAtt>e cy, kojihko ce ca/ja 3Ha, Behe
BHCHHe ho apdaHaiiiKe. Zlajbe, cacraBJbeHe cy on, KpenibaKa, kojh hhhh npocTpaHa, rojia, jaKO KpuieBHTa h
TeniKO npoxojxHa 6njia noja cy nopetjaHa jeAHO 3a
ApyrHM on odajie npeMa yHyTpauiHbocTH. Oa Ba^HOCTH
je na Kp03 HdHx HeMa AyranKHx npo6oJHHixa Koje 6h
nonpenKe npoceua;ie ueo n;iaHHHCKH CHcreM h KOJHMa
6h ce Morao bpujhth cao6pahaj U3ue\)y IlpHMopja h
ApdaHCKH cy bchuh hh>kh, jane cy
yHyTpauiHDOCTH.
36njeHH h cacTaBêHH cy noiviaBHTO on mckhx fynuwhhx creHa, h 36or Tora cy ce y H>HMa Monie pa3BHTH
nonpenHe pe^He aojihhc, on kojhx HeKe, Kao JleBOJi h
LLlKyM6a, npo6HJajy cKOpo CBe nâHHHCKe BeHue. HdhxoBe ao/ihhc cy ycne h K/mcypacre, a;iH ce tt>HMa Mory
carpa^HTH CBe MOAepHe KOiviyHHKauHJe Koje 6u Be3a;ie
ueHTpa^He AeÔBe nojiyocrpBa c mopckom o6a;iOM.
H3 HaBeAeHHx pa3Jiora jacHO je ihto je HaJBaachhjh nonpenHH hctophjckh nyT, dpaHKO-duuLojbCKii uyiu
wnw dapa Via Egnatia, Be3aH 3a rpqKO-ap6aHCKH njiahhhckh cHCTeM h 3a BberoBy HaJBa>KHHJy npo6oJHHuy,
Ao;iHHy LLlKyM6e. OBaj nyT carpaAHJiH cy PHMJbaHH
OAMax nocrce ocBOJeâ MaKeAOHHj'e, na je 3aAP>Kao
cBojy Ba>KHOCT CBe no AaHac. nojia3HO je on Zlpana
(Dyrrhachium) na je nuiao ao;ihhom UlKyM6e (Genusus),
na je npeKO npeceA-flHHe h njiaHHHe KaHAaBHj'e (âHaujH>a Be/iHHKa rircaHHHa?) CHJia3HO y OxpHA (Lichnites), MHJa je b3>khoct y TOMe oito npeACTaBJba TaqKy
Ha kojoj Via Egnatia H3Jia3H H3 inyMOBHTHx ap6aHCKHx
nâHHHa y n;iOAHe h npocrpaHe 3anaAHO-MaKeAOHCKe
kot^hhc Zlaê je nuiao Kp03 npecnaHCKy KOTJiHHy,
npeKO PecHa, npeceA-flHHe TbaBaTa y Ma;iy uanapCKy
h Be^HKy 6nTOJbCKy (neJiaroHHJCKy) KOiviHHy. Hajbe je
Hinao, npeKO npece^HHe Khjiht JlepBeHT (948 m.), y
KOT.THHy Cao\\\)On (OcrpBCKO Je3epo) Ha Boach (Edessa),
oapcKOM
n:orPA<('<
kh no/io>KAj
17
HeKaAaiuiby Bapoiu fle^y MHje ce pa3Ba/iHHe BH#e Kon

nodosa y Co^yHCKOJ KaMnaibH, 11 upeKO Co^yHa
3a LUpnrpa/i. On Co^yHa .no 5HTO.i>a âHac H/ie >Ke/ie3HHua, a on 5HTo:ba no OxpHâ HanHtteH je Ao6ap
ko/ickh nyT. On OxpHiia no Zlpana joiu h caaa Bflaaa
KHpHMHJCKH cao6pahaj. Reo on Oxpnaa no 6HT0^>a
npeAcraBâ Haj>KHB;bH nyT y yHVTpaimbociH Flo^yodpBa. hbHMe ce H3B03e Ha 6HTo;bCKy >Keê3HHMKy
ce;ia
3eM^>opa^HHMKH h crowapcKH npojyKTH Be;ihkhx ae/iOBa Cpeatbe Ap6aHHJe h o6;iacTH bc^hkhx

je3epa 3ana;xHe MaKeAOHHJe. HaponHTo je y jeceH >khb
OBaj nyT, >KHBJbH ho BapoiHKe y/iHue MHornx MaKeAOhckhx BapoujH. To je npaBH Kop30 3anaAHe ManeAOHHj'e, Ha KOJeM ce cycpehy KHpnunje c KO^HMa h
KOHDHMa, xpHmhaHCKH h TypcKH TproBUH, ap6aHaujKe
norâBHue, y KpaTKO CBe pa3He HapoaHOCTH h npy
ujTBeHH oiojeBH 3anaziHe MaKe;*OHHJe h Ap6aHHJe"
cTaHHuy
(UbhjhH, Ochobc
4.
I.).
HaJBawHHJH neo Hose CpoHJe. BaviKaHCKo je3rpo.
VTHuajeM 03Hxnonpe4HHx"KOMyHHKauHJa, nojenHHH

nenoBH MopaBCKO-BapâpcKe ynojhune o6h/ih cy HaPOhhth caoGpahaJHH, Ky/iTypHH h CTpaTerHJCKH 3Hanaj.
y TOMe nor/ieay no.io>Kaj Crape Cp6HJe MHoro je Ba>Khhjh on no/iowaja MaKeAOHnje. liojeflHHH ac/iobh Ct.
Cp6HJe HMajy CKopo AOMHHaHTaH no.io>Kaj Ha Ba;iKaHckom Ilo^yocTpBy Kao Tawne kojc HMajy Be3e y CBHMa
npaBUHMa, h H3 koj'hx ce Mowe naj/iaKiue yTHuaTH Ha
cyce^He 3eM^>e.
3a CTapy Cp6njy on npecy^He b8>khocth je to
ujto HaJBa>KHHJa nonpeMHa KOMyHHKaunja y ceBepno.M
ae/iy no/iyocrpBa H36nja y iboj na MopaBCKO-BapAapCKy AO.iHHy, h ujto HMa 3roAHe Be3e y CBHMa npanUHMa. 36or obhx noBO/bHHx npHpoAHHX Be3a, CTapa
Cp6nja ca cyce^HHM Ae/iOBHMa Cp6nje h ByrapcKe na3BaHa je u,eniupa.iHOM 6aAtCOHCKOM oo.iaiuhy, Koja HMa
HajâKUje HenocpeAne Be3e ca cyce.iHHM
ma. Y
tv 06/iad cna,na CKoncKa oo/iacr c Obmhm IIo.beM,
KyMaHOBOM h npemeBCKHM pa iboIjcm, Kocobo, Kpajemi
HOBA CPUMJA
HOBA CPtiHJA
18
oko Bpaite, JlecKOBua, rinpoTa h HHiua y Cp6Hjn, h

KpajeBH oko TiycreHAH;ia h Cocjwje y ByrapcKOj. y toj
o6;iacTH cKoncKO-npemeBCKa o6;iacT HMa jeAHHCTBeH
no;io>K2j. OHa HMa JiaKe h CHrypHe Be3e y CBHMa npaBUHMa, jipmn y ce6u KJbyq HajB'a>KHHJe y3Ay>KHe KOMyHHKauHJe h fteHy Be3y c r/iaBHOM nonpe^HOM KOMyHHKauHJOM Ha noc/ieTKy, CKoncKO-npemeBCKa je o6;iacT
3HaTHa ca CBor npnpoAHor 6oracrBa. 36or cbhx obhx
oco6HHa, CKoncKO-npemeBCKa o6jiacr nociaje cpczmurre
H3 Kora ce Moate Haj/iaKine 3aBJianaTH npocTpaHHM o6;iaCTHMa Ba^KaHCKor flo/iyocrpBa, h H3 Kora ce Moate pa3bhth je^Ha cHa>KHa AP>KaBa y yHyipamibocTH BajiKaHCKor FIo^yocTpBa. H3 thx pa3/iora, V. LJ,BHJHh je
cKoncKO-npemeBCKy o6jiacr no Ba)KHOCTH h3abojho oa
;
je 6aAKancKUM je3tpoM (Ubhjhh,

OcHOBe I, dp. 47, 52).
HecTO je y Hac HCTHijaHa BaacHOCT no;io)Kaja
Kocoea riojba. him Kao iuto ce H3 ropH>er bhah, Kocobo je Aa/ieKO oa MopaBCKo-BapAapCKe yAOJbHHe, h
c H>OMe je Be3aH0 AyranKOM KaqaHHHKOM KjmcypOM,
ocra;iHX h Ha3Bao
Koja ce jiaKo #a 3aTBOpHTH. Oho AaKjie He Bjia.ua hhjeAHHM Ae;iOM râBHor y3Ay>KHor nyTa. 3aTHM HeMa
nyHe hh npaBe Be3e c AOcaAamibOM Cp6njoM, nnja
nnaBHa KOMyHHKauHOHa h Ky/rrypHa dpyja HAe mopaBCKO-BapAapcKOM yAOJbHHOM. Oho je oa MeToxnje
h nozipHMa Ha jyro3anaAy, h oa Cp6nje Ha ceBepoHCTOKy, orpatjeHo n;iaHHHaMa. Te cy TeuiKohe He3HaTHHJe npeMa IlehH h FIpH3peHy. Oho je npocTpaHa h
npHBpeAHO 6oraTa KOiviHHa, c okojihhom Koja je myMOBHTa h 6oraTa pyAaMa, h cnaAa y Hajn/iOAHHJe AejiOBe
rio/iyocTpBa. HMa Ao6pe npHpoAne Be3e ca CKaAapCKHM
h 6apcKHM upHMopjeM, 3aTHM c HoBona3apcKHM CaHuaKOM. 3aT0 oho yTHne ueHTpa/iHinyhH Ha jeAny MHoro
Maiby o6/iacT, HapoqHTo Ha ceBepo3anaAHe npajeBe, y
Her<o/iHKO h Ha rioAPHM h MeTOXHJy. Oho HMa bckhkh
3Hanaj 3a HoBona3apcKH CaHuaK, 3aTHM 3a Be3e BocHe
h XepueroBHHe ca ueHTpa/iHHM 6a/iKaHCKHM 3eMâMa
h MopaBCKO-BapAapcKOM yAOJbHHOM. C KocoBa ce MOtfte
jaue Ky/nypHO u no;iHTHm<H yTHijaTH Ha HoBona3apCKH
rEorpA*CKH
iio/io>kaj
CaHyaK, h Ha BocHy h XepueroBHHy, ho H3
10
aoca;iaLiiH>e
Cp6Hj'e.
perHOHa^Hy
(06/iacHy) Ba>KHOCT HMajy

Cp6nje.
Ha npBOM Mecry, TaKBa
MHorH ae/iOBH HoBe
je eeAeiuKO-uiiuuucKa o6aclcui, y kojoj ce Ha;ia3e pacKpcHHue MHorHx Ba)KHHx nyTeBa h MHora 3HaTHa TproBanKa MecTa. y toj ce 06/iacrH CTHny npo/iyKTH 60
raie oko/ihhc, 3aTHM n/iaHHHCKHx 06/iacrH K/iene h
Xaca, OBHer I~Io/ba, KonaHCKe KoiviHHe, OcoroBHJe,
FlHJaHua h Ma/ieiua, h Ha noaieTKy, nyieM FIpH/ienTpaACKO, y Be/iec Ao;ia3e npo^yKTH 3HaTHHx #e;ioBa
FleJiaroHHJe, HapoMHTO npH/iencKe oko^hhc
y 3ana^HOj MaKeôHHJH ueHTpa/iHy o6.iacT npeaCTaB.-ba ne.iaiOHiijcKa KoiuAuna, MHJe je cpeAHime BhTOJb. y HdOJ Ce CTHHy MHOrH Ba>KHH nyTCBH H3 Ap6aHHJe, Ennpa, Jy>KHe h CeBepHe MaKeiiOHHJe. 3a n>y
cy Be3aHe KOiviHHe: OxpHACKa, FIpecnaHCKa, KopnaHCKa h CapHô/i, 3aTHM >Kyna >Ke;ie3HHK, 11 3HaTHH jie;iobh KHMeBa h nopena.
CeBepHH neo ao;iHHe UpHMa, HapoMHTO dedapcna
ooaclciTi, npeflcraBJba je#Hy or HaJ3a6aqeHHJHx h najjane
TaKBy,
oabojshhx o6âcTH ue;ie HoBe Cp6Hj'e. Bhcokhm h

npoxoflHHM BeHUHMa OHa je o^BojcHa or UpaMKor FIpHMopja h or 06a tlo/iora. Be3e Koje nocrojc
npeKO bhcokhx nâHHHCKHX npeBOJa BehH aco ro^HHe
cy HeynoTpe6^HBe, jxenoM 36or bcthkhx CHeroBa, a
n,e/iOM 36or HecHrypHOCTH Koja je y thm o6.iacTHMa
B/iaaa.na, h Koja y ap6ancKHM n.ianHnaMa h caj B.Taâ.
y npaBuy ao^hhc UpHMa, npe.via ripH3peHy, caoopahaj ce HHJe Morao pa3BHTH 36or necHrypHHx npn/iHKa,
Koje he h or caaa TaMO B/iaaaTH. Ha Taj HanHn, rq6apcKa 06/iacr BMahe Be3e caMo c OxpHAOM, h, 3a
/icnbHx Meceun, c TocrHBapoM h c TeTOBOM. 36or Tora
he 6hth je^Ha or HaJHeonxo/iHHJHx, h ckohomckhx h
crpaTernjcKHx, noTpe6a R2L ce ne6apcKa 06/iaer ihto
npe Be>Ke, 3roAHHM cao6pahaJHHM ziHHHJaMa, c TeTobom h c ao/iHHOM Bapaapa.
y nac ce MHoro roBopH/10 o reorpacJ)CKOj Ba>Khocth Cuiape Paiiine h.th Hodoua3apcKu: Caw/aha.
To je BHCOKa, KpmeBHTa, npnpoAHo Mnpcro orpafyeHa
TeiiiKO
20
HOBA CPEHJA
nâHHHCKa o6jiacr, ckohomckh aocTa CHpoMauma, Koja

CBOJy HapOMHTy no-nHTHHKy Ba>KHOCT noCuna. 3aio
uito ce Kao kjihh yBJianHJia Metjy ABe cpncKe apataBe.
Ty Ba>KHOCT nojanaBao je h Taj MOMeHaT uito je jejxhsl dpaHa np>KaBa Ty o6;iacT cMaTpa/ia Kao no:ia3Hy
6a3y 3a CBOja âjba ocBajatba Ha HCTOKy h ihto je 6ma
h bojhhhkh nocejia. To je 6ho je^HHCTBeH no;io)Kaj
no^HTH^KH 3aTBOpeHe 3eM^>e, no;io>Kaj Ha ocHOBy Kora
je Ubhjhh ctbopho nojaM noflHTHHKe 3eMJboy3HHe. Ca.ua,
Kaâ cy ce cacrajie rpaHHue zusajy cpncKHx KpajbeBHHa,
CTapa PaiuKa H3ry6nâ je Her#aiHH>H 3Haqaj 3eMôy3HHe. OHa HMa nocne ocô6o^CH.a OTBOpeHe rpaHHue
npeMa ceBepy, npeMa HCTOKy h npeMa jyry. Je^HHO je
3aTBOpeHa npeMa Bochh, h to y npaBuy y KOMe uny
#o;iHHe HdChhx HaJBaacHHJHx pena. H ckohomckh h nojiHTHHKH nOJIO>Kaj JOJ je HecyMtbHBO nOBOJbHHJH. Aj\U Ta
nâHHHCKa o6;iacT He Moace BHiue HMaTH CBOJy HeKaAanjH>y Ba>KHOCT, h to HapOHHTo y BpeMeHy Kaâ ueo
MOêpHH Jby^CKH >khbot CTpyJH y npaBuy npeivia hhckhm
KOTJiHHaMa h ^y6oKHM peHHHM'ô^HHaMa. Je^HHo he canyBaTH Moacaa CBOJy crpaTernjcKy Ba^HOCT, Kao BHeoKa,
TeuiKO npHCTynaHHa h npHpo^Ho yTBptjeHa o6;iacT.
je
nâcTHKa MaKeÔHHJe h CTape Cp6nje, ca cboJHM H30JIOBaHHM KOTJiHHaMa H 3aTBOpeHHM o6jiaCTHMa,

HeodHHHO je noBOJbHa 3a pa3Bnhe OBaKHx HHzuiBHAyajiHHX reorpa(J)CKHx uejinna. Ta 3eMJba y cbom BeheM
Acny oapetjeHa je a )khbh >khbotom kojh je pa36njeH
y BHUie MatbHX ue;iHHa, oa kojhx je TeuiKO cacTaBHTH
je^Hy Ky^TypHy, HauHOHajiny H jipmaBuy ueJiHHy. TaKaB
no/io>Kaj 6ho 6h HecyMftHBO Te>KaK h BeoMa HesroâH.
H 36or Tora AO^HHa Bapâpa, Koja no cpe^HHH npeceua Te o6e 3eMjbe, HMa, h 3a caMy yHyTpauiH>ocT, Heo6hhho Be^HKH 3Haqaj. hfooMe cy 0Be 3eM;be ao6ivic
je^Hy Be;iHKy cao6pahaJHy apTepnjy y Kojy ce cnmy
nyTeBH H3 CBHJy 06/iacrH, koj'om CTpyJH >khbot h KyjiTypa ueê 3eMJbe, h npeMa kojoj ce yêuiaBa >khbot
h cao6pahaj CBHJy ocra;iHx KOT/iHHa.
HoBa Cp6HJa HMa jiaKJie je^Hy ueHTpa^Hy jiuHHJy y Kojy cc CBe cnme h H3 Koje ce Ha CBe CTpaHC
TEOrPA^CKH n0.10>KAJ
21
pa3HOBpcHH yTHuajH. C Tora me.HHiuTa OHa HMa noBOJbHHj'e reorpa(J)CKe npn;iHKe o^

cbhx ocra^Hx 6a;iKaHCKHx 3eMajba, H3y3eB nocajiauiihQ
Cp6Hj'e. Hh ByrapcKa hh TpHKa HeMajy Tano 3ro;ine
cao6pahaJHe apTepHJe Koje B/ianajy cao6pahajeM ue;ie
3eMJbe, Kao iuto je HMa HOBa h /locaAatuFba Cp6Hj'a.
HocMaTpaHDeM reorpacf)CKe Kapie bhah ce na je
canauiiha Cp6HJa 3arocnoaapH/ia HaJBa>KHHJHM TawKaMa
Mory
;iaKO BpuiHTH
y yHyTpaiiJHDOCTH Ba/u<aHCKor I~Io;iyocTpBa. OHa rocnoAapn CBHMa ohhm o6;iacTHMa Koje caMHH>aBajy Tano
3BaHO 6ajiKaucKO je3rpo. A;ih je on HaJBehe Ba>KHOCTH
iuto je Cp6Hja 3arocno#apH/ia CKopo ue/iOM MopaBCKoBapjiapcKOM .ho^hhom, h iuto jy je ocnrypa.ia no6pHM
npnpoiiHHM rpaHHuaMa. Ha Taj HanHH, Cp6nja je no6ujia KJbyv on HajBa>KHHJHx reorpa^CKHx TanaKa y
yHyTpauubocTH Ba^naHCKor no/iyocrpBa, h Ha nyTy je
na nocTaHe, ynpaBO 36or Tora, HaJBa>KHHJa 6a;u<aHCKa
^p>KaBa. Ba>KHOCT reorpa(})CKHx npn^HKa Hauie npoujHpeHe OTai i6HHe je TO/iHKa, h 3a Hac TaKO noBO/bHa,
na je 3HaTaH /ieo Haujux caBpeMeHHKa je#Ba cxBaTa h
oceha. Mh cmo can y TaKBHM npn/iHKaMa na ce ne
MopaMO Kao no cana TyacHTH Ha cboj CKpo3 HenoBojbaH reorpa({)CKH noô>Kaj. 3aBHCH caMo on Hac, on
name Bpe^HOCTH, yMeujHOCTH, ziyiueBHe CHare h Ky/iTypHor pana, na na ce thm jcahhctbcho noBO.'bHHM no.io>KajeM no Kpaja kophcthmo h na ra yMBpcTHMO.
I
npyrn
OB^MUM
,heo.
3EMJbHLL[TA.
y Oca,naiiiH>HM HauiHM H3JiaraH>HMa mh cmo

qeiiihe roBOpHJW o 3Haqajy nojeflHHHx reorpa(})CKHx
o6jeKaTa, h o Ky;rrypHOj h eKOHOMCKOJ Ba>KHOCTH noje^HHHx njiacTHHKHx upia. H y AajbeM H3Jiarafty, HaPOhhto npH onHcy noje^HKHx o6jiacTH. cpeTaheMO ce
BeoMa necTO c yTHuaJHMa obhx HHHHJiaua. Th cy yTHuaJH pa3HOBpCHH h no nopeKJiy HHHHJiaija oji kojhx
#0Jia3e h no janHHii kojom ohh yTHqy. Ohh ce ocehajy
h y ocTaJiHM cpncKHM 3eMjbaMa, Kao h Ha ueôj 3eMajbCKOj* uoBpuiHHH. Ajih o6;iacTH Koje caqHH>aBajy
HoBy Cp6njy pa3JiHKyjy ce or ocrajinx cpncKHx 3eMajba THMe iiito HMajy MHoro CTapnjy reoJiouiKy nponi.JIOCT H KOMn^HKOBaHHJy nâCTHKy, KOJa pa3HOBpCHHJHM
H MHOro6pOJHHJHM CBOJHM C/ieMeHTHMa yTHHe Ha Jby^CKH
>khbot. jja 6h HaM th yTHuajn 6h;ih jaCHH, MH keMO
xpOHOJIOIHKHM pCZJOM H3^0>KHTH nOCTaHaK H pa3BHTaK
OBe nâcTHKe h HdChhx nojeAHHHX eêMeHaia.
I.
OCHOBHM
npB06HTHM
o6nUi\V\.
YTHuaJH yHyiapH>Hx 3eiviajbCKHX
cHjia.
Ha Ba^KaHCKOM noflyocrpBy HMaMO neT
njiaHHHo^JiHKyje cbojhm
HapoHHTHM oco6HHaMa. 0,3, thx CHCTeMa 3a nâcTHKy
HoBe Cp6nje HMajy Ba>KH0CTH caMO TpH, h to :'po,zionckh, rpMK0-ap6aHCKH h;ih nHH^CKH, h ^HHapcKH ruia-
ckhx
CHcreMa,
or kojhx
ce CBaKH
0I..1HUH 3EM/LH11JTA
HHHCKH CHCTeM. [~lpBH 3ay3HMa CKOpO CBe o6^8CTH

6HBiue MaKeAOHHJe h Crape Cp6Hje, aok nocneAfoa
nsa. 3aâ3e y HdHX caMo nojeAHHHM cbojhm orpaHUHMa.
TlHHapcKH h nHHzicKH chctcm 3ay3HMajy ueo 3anaaHH Aeo
Ba^KaHCKor FIo^yocTpBa. FIpBH ce npywa oa Jhy6jhancne KcnviHHe Ha ceBepy no CKaâpcne KcnviHHe Ha jyry,
h no MeroxHJe, KocoBa, KonaoHHKa h PyAHHKa na
HcroKy. hbeMy AaK/ie npnnaAajy CBe n/iaHHHe XpBaTCKe,
Ha^MauHJe, BocHe, XepueroBHHe, UpHe Tope, CeBepHe
Ciape Cp6nje h 3anaAHe no/iOBHHe AOcaAanitt>e Cp6nje.
Ohhackh n.iaHHHCKH CHcreM npy>Ka ce oa CKaâpcKe
h MeTOXHJCKe KoT/iHHe no Jy>KHe TpHKe. HcronHa My
je rpaHHua, y rviaBHOM,
Oxphacko Je3epo h AO/iHHa
UpHor ZlpHMa. 06a OBa n/iaHHHCKa cncreMa npeacTaBJbajy M/iaAe n/iaHHHe Koje cy cacraBJbeHe on BHiue
napaê^HHx BeHaua kojh c ncroKa 3aTBapajy ja^panCKy o6a;iy. CaMO cy bchuh npBor cncreMa npocrpaHHJH,
nêhaTHJH h npaBH^HHJe. cy rpaêHH, a nopeâHH cy
TaKO Aa HaJBHUJH bchuh h bpxobh A0/ia3e cKopo y
cpe^HHH caMor CHCTeMa. Bchuh Apyrora cy y>KH, 36hjeHHJH, HHcy TaKO CHMeTpHMHo pacnopeêHH h ApyKHHJe
cy reo;ioiiiKe rpahje.
Hctomho on 06a OBa CHCTeMa je podouchu uauhuhcku cuciueM, kojh je Ha ceBepy orpaHHqeH 6a/iKaHckhm nâHHHCKHM chctcmom, a c jyra h ncroKa ErejCKHM H MpaMOpHHM MopCM. On CBHX OCTa/IHX, pOAOnCKH
CHCTeM ce pa3/iHKyje THMe liito oh HHj'e cacraBJbeH H3
HenpeKHAHHx nâHHHCKHx BeHaua kojh cy y h3bcchom
peAy nopeâHH, Beli je cacraB/beH H3 BHiiie n/iehaTHx,
Mecro ycaMêHHx n/iaHHHa h ayooKHx h npocrpanHx
KOT^HHa, Koje cy MaxoM y pa3HHM npaBUHMa nopeljanc,
h CKopo 6e3 HKaKBor nopeTKa pa3MeiiJTeHe. Mh OBAe
HeMaMO naK/ie jeAny n.iaiiHHCKy ue-iHHy h;ih jeAan ueo
CHcreM n/iaHHHa, Beh HMaMO pa3ne rpyne ruianniia KOJC
cy ue\)y co6om H30ABajane h H3pa36njaHe. 36or Tora
ce o6hmho h hc roBopn o poAoncKOM nâHHHCKOM
cHcreMy Beh o poAoncKoj MacH.
UeHTpa/my 06/iaer poAoncKor n/ianHHCKor CHCTeMa,
h/ih poAoncKe n.iaHHHCKe Mace, caMHibaBajy n/iaumi
Be/iacnua, LLlap/iHJa, Ilnpnn, PoAone, Pn;ia, Bcluh:.,
24
HOBA CPBHJA
Kapaâr h XopTaq, Koje ce Ha;ia3e y AOcaAaumoj

Hctomhoj MaKeÔHHJH h Jy>KHOj ByrapcKOj. OâBAc
poAoncKH njiaHHHCKH CHCTeM npy>Ka CBOje pa3He, Maite
h Behe, KpaKOBe npeMa 3anaAHOJ MaKeAOHHJH, npeivia
KocoBy, h Ay>K MOpaBCKe AOflHHe npeMa HyHaBy, rjie
ce nojcuHHa BberoBa Man>a OAeJbetba npodnjajy npeMa
ceBepy H3Meijy orpaHaKa AHHapcKor cncreMa h njiaHHHckhx orpaHaKa Hctohhc Cp6nje kojh npnnaAajy KapnaTCKOM njiaHHHCKOM CHdeMy.
PoAoncKH n/iaHHHCKH CHCTeM AOAHpyje ce, AaKJie, ca
CBHMa nâHHHCKHM CHdeMHMa Ba^KaHCKor riojiyocrpBa.
TpaHHue H>eroBe cy HerAe Manê a HerAe BHuie iacHe.
TpaHHHHe o6jiacTH cy o6hmho KOMnjiHKOBaHe reo-JiouiKe
rpaê, h y TaKHM npHAHKaMa je o6hhho TeuiKO OApeahth rpaHHuy H3Me^y ABa cyceAHa njiaHHHCKa CHcreMa.
y râBHOM ce y3HMa Aa ce npeMa AHHapcKOM njiaHHHCKOM CHCTeMy rpaHHMH JIHHHJOM Koja Hê OA Py^HHKa
Ha KonaoHHK h Ha Kocobo Iiojbe; npeMa rpqKO-ap6aHCKOM nâHHHCKOM CHCTeMy TpaHHUe HJXy y TJiaBHOM
aoahhom UpHor UpHMa Ha Oxphacko Je3epo, a Ha
AOAHpy c orpaHUHMa njiaHnne Ba;iKaHa HacTaje hh3
nâHHHa Koje cy no cbojhm oco6HHaMa 03HaqeHe Kao
n/iaiiniie Koje HHHe npe;ia3 H3Mel]y 06a CHCTeMa.
PoAoncKH nâHHHCKH CHCTeM npeacraBJba HajcTapHJH nâHHHCKH CHCTeM Ba;iKaHCKor Ilo^yocTpBa,
ynpaBO H>eroB HajcrapHJH Aeo. CBe ocra;ie njiaHHHe

cy MHoro MAalje oa H>era, h HMajy ApyKHHJy npoujAOcr,
ApyKHHJy HCTOpHJy pa3BHha h ApyKHHiy njiacniKy. PoAoncKH nâHHHCKH CHCTeM npeACTaBJba jeAaH oa H ajcTapHJHx nâHHHCKHX cncreMa Ha 3eMajbCKOj noBpuiHHH.
Ta cTapocr ce onieAa y TOMe hjto cy CBe Te njiaHHHe
cacraBJbeHe oa HajcTapHJHx cTeHa, uito cy CBe h3jiomMan>Hx KOMaAa, h ujto AaK;ie CBe
npeAcraBJbajy caMo ocTaTKe oa HeKaAauntHx nAaHHHa.
H poAoncKH njiaHHHCKH CHCTeM nocTao je OHano
Kao ujto je nocTao HaJBehn Aeo AaHauiiBHx njiaHHHa
Ha 3eMajbCKoj noBpuiHHH nadupaweM nope 3eMajbCKe.
ZU 6hcmo pa3yMeAH nocTaHaK poAoncKor njiaHHHCKor
CHCTeMa, 6nhe noTpedHO Aa y KpaTKHM upTaMa o6jachhmo caM npouec HaGnpaHba. Ha npBOM Mecry Tpe6a
jbeHe y 6e36poj
25
OB/IHUH 3EMJbHIHTA
na OiiroBopHMO Ha OBa nHTan>a KaKo ce Mowe m6upaTH KOpa 3eMa;bCKa Koja je cacraB;beHa on hbpcthx
creHa, KaKBH cy 3Haun Tora Ha6Hpatba h 'kojh cy My
y3pouH? Ha Ta nHTatba curoBopHheMo oBaKo. Ko je
nona3no y Haiue nnannne h 3arvie;iao pa3He no/io>Kaje
Koje 3ay3HMajy c/iojeBH ohhx creHa on kojhx je caCTaBêna n/iaHHHa, BHêhe na cy creHe necTO Ha6paHe
y orpoMHe 6ope Koje cy KaTKaa no MHTaBe KH/iOMeipe
^yre. HecyMibHBO je, âKê, na HMa creHa Koje cy
Ha6paHe CKopo OHaKO hcto Kao luto ce Ha6epe Kouan
cyKHa h/ih n/iaTHa Kan ra c je^He crpaHe noTHCHeMO.
Ha ce h HBpcTe CTeHe Mory Ha6HpaTH, AOKa3a^H cy (J)h3HMapH kojh cy pa3He creHe MeTa^H noji orpoMHH npnTHcaK h y Be^HKy TeMnepaTypy. Ohh cy OKa3a/iH na
h HaJHBpiuhe creHe, non orpoMHHM npHTHCKOM h y
H3BaHpeiiHO bctchkoj TeMnepaTypH, nocrajy e;iacTHMHe,
h na ce Mory npecaBHJaTH Kao KOMaa TaHKe ;iHMe (n/iexa).
Ha Tpehe nHTatbe MO>KeMO o^roBopHTH caMO TeopHJcKH.
3h3mo na 3eMJba HMa CBOJy B-nacTHTy TonÔTy. Ako ce
cnyiHTaMO y y6oKe pyzmnne h TyHeê, 3HaMO na 3a
CBaKHx 30 no 34 Mdpa Ay6HHe, TeMnepaTypa ce noBeha 3a \enan creneH. floujTo no cpeztHuiTa 3eM^>e
HMa npeno 6000 KH/iOMeTapa, to ce MO)Ke 3aMHcvihth KaKO y>KacHa BpyhHHa Bnana y cpe^Hiuiy 3eM;bc
Ty Ton/iOTa Mopa 6hth TO/iHKa na pacrana cBe CTeHe
h CBe MHHepa/ie. 36or Tora ce h npeTnocraBJba â
ce cpe^HUJTe 3eM^>e Ha/ia3H y ycHJaHO tcwhom cratby.
O TOMe cnenone h By/iKaHCKe .laBe, kojc HecyMibHBO
AO/ia3e H3 bc.hhkhx y6HHa, h Koje H36njajy na 3eM.i>y
y ycHJaHO tcmhom craiby.
CynpoTHO TOMe, BacnoHCKe npodopHJe Koje cc
Ha/ia3e oko 3eM.be y>KacHo cy xnanne. C noMohy 6a.lOHa AOKasaHO je na na BHcnuaMa on 10 KibioMCTapa
Bnana TeMnepaTypa on 60 creneHH ncnoA Hy;ie. 36or
OBora cBera, 3eM/ba je npHnytjCHa na ry6n CBOjy ton/iOTy h na ce nocTeneHO x/ia/iH. X/iahetbeM, OHa CBe
BHUje CMaibyje CBOjy janpcMHuy. To x.ialjeibe jaue o<
i.CKa, Koja je
CpCJUUirre sen/be no MBpcra Kopa
CKopo cacBHM x.naAHa. CpejHUJTe ce, <6or Tora, 6p>Kc
rora, H.^Mehy ikcrfl h
x.ia^n h 6p>Ke cMaibyje.
:
HOBA CPBHJA
26
HBpcre Kope CTBapajy ce npa3HH npodopH h uiynjbHHe

Koje npeacTaBJbajy MecTa c;ia6e omopHe moHh. 36or
Tora, y hdhx ce CTponouiTaBa HBpcra Kopa 3eMa;t>CKa,
Koja tom npn^HKOM o6hhho Hcnyua. TaKO HacTajy Be;iHKa yay6jbeH>a y KopH 3eMajbCKoj, oHaKBa Kao uno
cy kotjihhc bckhkhx OKeaHa h Mopa. OHe nyKOTHHe
Koje ce jaBe Ha KopH 3eMajbci<oj 30BeMO pacedu. Ohh
Mory j& 6yny HdpraHH y BHiue JiHHHj'a, a Mory ,na
npe^CTaBJbajy h jeflHy jiHHHJy, Mory rsl H3i7ieaajy Kao
3janehe nyKOTHHe, a Mory h #a 6yay npeKpHBeHH
3eMJbOM.
3eMajbCKa Kopa ce, aaKJie, ycjie/j ry6jbett>a tonÔTe, CMe^KypaBa Kao iiito ce civie}Kypa Kopa or ja6yKe Ka^ ce ocyuiH. Ohh KOMa^H 3eMJbe kojh noTOHy
y jiyCuny Bpuie 6oqHH npHTHcaK Ha OHe cJiojeBe kojh
ce Ha;ia3e y ,ziy6HHaMa. Th cy cjiojeBH noa bcjihkhm
npHTHCKOM KOJH ,HOJia3H or cnojeBa kojh Jie>Ke Ha H)HMa,
a Haâ3e ce aaKJie h y bcjihkoj BpyhHHH. 36or Tora
ohh h Mory aa ce TaKO Ha6npajy.
OBaKHM npouecoM Ha6Hpatt>a nocrajie cy npBO*
6htho CBe nâHHHe Ba-JiKaHCKor riojiyocrpBa. O caMOM
poAoncKOM njiaHHHCKOM CHCTeMy 3Ha ce obo. Oh je
cacTaBJbeH o^ HajdapHJHx CTeHa 3eMajbCKe noBpuiHHe,
norâBHTO or KpncrajiacTHx uiKpHJbaua 1 CBe CTeHe or
kojhx je cacraB;beH poaoncKH CHdeM 6njie cy HadpaHe
y najieo30JHKy, h to npe nepMa 2 PoaoncKa Maca je
.
CBe deHe on kojhx je caciaBJbeHa 3eMajbCKa noBpuiHHa

MoweMO, npeMa h>hxobom nociaHKV, noae;iHTH Ha TpH Bpcie. IlpBy
upcTy caqnH>aBajy KpurtuaAacuiu uiKptubu,u; ohh npeacraBJbajy HajdapHJe deHe 3e\ia;bCKe noBpniHHe h CTajiHO o6pa3yjy ocHOBy Hai1
h HajcTapHJHM ce/iHMeHTapHHM creHaMa. ZXpyry BpcTy cawHâBajy ceduMeHiuapHe cmene, Koje nocrajy TajioweFteM Ha AHy
MopcKOM, a Tpehy MHHe epyuiuueHe cmene. To cy CTeHe Koje cy
nocra;ie H36auHBaH>eM ycnjaHO tcmhhx Maca H3 yHyTpauifcocTH 3eMJbe.
Pa3;iHKyjy ce Mehy co6om nomaBHTO npeMa MHHepajiHMa oa kojhx
cy cacTaB.-heHe, npeMa HaHHHy Ha kojh cy Ha 3eMa^CKOj hobpuihhh
M3^HBeHe, KaTKaa h npeMa reo/iouiKoj CTapocTH, a h thmc uito neKe
Huajy tnojeBe a HeKe hx neMajy.
n.y6ibviu
FeoôuiKy npouuiocT acuhmo Ha wempH nepHO/ie, h to Ha

Apxajurc npeacTaBJba
Me3030JHK h kcho30jhk.
ajxxajHK, naêo30JHit,
HajcTapHJy nepnojiy reo/ioiUKe npouiJiocTH, reo/iouiKy npftHcropHJy,

M3 KOJe HCMaMO HHKaKBH* 3HaKOBa no KOJHMa 6HCMO MOHIH 3aKJbyMHTH
OWIHUH AtLMJhHWTX
o6auk BeHanHHx n.iaHHHa. OHa

aouHHje yTHuajeM TeKyhwx BOfla 6ma nocreneHo pa
3opaBaHa h pa3HoineHa, TaKO Aa je npH noneTKy TepuHTaAa, BepoBaTHO, HMa/ia
je
jepa npeACTaB;ba/ia 06/jacr ca n/iaHHHaMa Ma.ae bhchhc,
npocTpaHHM peMHHM AO^HHaMa, MHoro6poJHHM je3epHMa h paBHHixaMa. y cpe/iHHH TepuHj'epa Hacraje nohobho H3AH3aH5e h Ha6Hpaft>e, npH KOMe 3HaTaH aeo
nâHHHa AOCTH>Ke or npH^HKe nauamiby BHCHHy. Ha6paHe 6Huie M/iatje n/iaHHHe Ha .neBOj o6a;w Bap/iapa.
y to BpeMe poAoncna Maca HMa/ia je MecTHMHue KapaKTep BeHaMHe nâHHHe; caMO noje^HHH bchuh HHcy
HMa/iH oiuTpe noBHj'apue h rpe6eHe, Kao ihto hx o6hmho
HMajy M-rcaê nâHHHe, Beh cy 6h/ih MaxoM n;iehaTHJH h
Ha Bpxy 3apaBHDeHH.
no npH^HUH y hcto BpeMe jaBHiue ce hobh noKpe
c
y npaBOj po/ioncKoj MacH, to jecT y o6.iacTH KpHcra/iacthx creHa, o6pa30Baiue ce y H>oj Be/iHKe nyKOTHHe Koje
Hcnpeceuaiue 3eM^>y y CBHMa npaBUHMa, HCTprauie n.iaHHHCKe BeHue,npeceKouje paBHHue h peMHe#o/iHHe. Zly>K
thx nyKOTHHa hjih paceâ noTOHyme orpoMHe n;iace 3eMajbCKe Kope, a zipyre ocrafloiue Ha cbojhm npBo6HTHHM
MecTHMa, h;ih ce Bp/io Maô noMepHiue. OHê rae ce y
je^HOJ TaMUH cacTaê BHiue pace.ua, h;ih rê pace;ui
ApxajcKH repeal
na je y \htMy 6h.io HKaKBa opraHCKor >KHBOTa
cacTaB.i>enH cy oa KpncTaaacTHx uiKpn;baua. II Ha.wo.iojcKa ucpuoda acim ce Ha ujcct c|)opMaunja 1) npcKaMftpiiyM, 2) Ka.MopnyM.
:
3) cii.iyp, 4) ;icboh, 5) Kapoon H o) nepst. HI Me3030JCKa uepuoda

l\>
.lean ce Ha TpH c|)opMauHje: 1) Tpujac, 2) jypa hS) KpeAS.
H030JCKO. uepuoda ae.iH ce Ha 1) Tcpunjep H 2) KBapiep. TepUHjep ce ae;iH Ha: a) couch, 6) o.iHroucn, bi mhoucii mi) h.ihouch.
Eouea h o.inroueH o6hmho ce naniBajy iid.ieocen, I mhouch m

KuapTep ce .ic.ih
dtuyettyM BOjtyenyM Haj
ii.ihouch neotcH.
cTapMJn TparoBn Jbyxcxor >KHBOTa cy jn.iyBnja.inc CTapOCTO.

3a juuuun&y OJUCTIiy 3evia-T>cKe noBpniHHc najBa>KHHje cy Kap6oncKa h Tcpunjcpua (|)opMauHja.CpcaHHo.M nap60M Tepunjcpa H3tpujeHa cy Be-iHKa yCnpaika y Kopn 3eMa.icKoj. y cpejUlWl repmjepi na
6pane cy h yxuimyTe aanaiiiH.c n.ijuchc u.iaiimie. IIupcucjn, Oijepa
HeBaaa, AT.iac, A.nm. Aiichhhh, KapMTH, ,'lnnapcKc H.iaiuiHC, I'p'iKoap6aHCKe n-iannne, BaanaH, KtBKlS, Xnsiaaajn H Kupju.i.cpn Cbh
aaHaiHH,H kohthhchth h MOpa noweaH cy tck y repOHJepy joGuBa
cboj jaiiauiH^H oo.ihk. y Kap6unv CJ iiabpaHC bpeTan.cKc ii.iaHHHc,
ApjcHH, huiC3H, LllBapuHa.u n Xapu BftOHOMCIOI juawaj hapduna Je
y rOMC ihto cy y m.cmv CTOKMKU orpOMU cK.iaaoBM KaMoiui yi.i.a.
28
HOBA CP1SHJA
OHBHHHiue BehH Aeo 3eMajbCKe nofipniHHe, o6pa30Bame

npodpaHe crapocpdnjaHCKe h MaKeAOHCKe kotjihhc
Koje 6ejaxy onKOJbeHe ctpmchhthm h bhcokhm creHObhthm iiyBapOBHMa, h TaKO nocTame H30JiOBaHe M 3aTBOpeHe.
Kojihko cy My6oKo TOHyê OBe njiace, Moê ce
caMO iiph6;ih>kho ouchhth. TaKO, Ha npHMep, orvieAajio
OxpHACKor Je3epa bhcoko je HaA MopeM 690 m., a
AyooKO 286 m. Vajiumnxa. mnaji itera BHCOKa je 2043
m. npeMa TOMe, oBAe cnyiuTaH>e h3hoch H3JMan>e 1729
Meiapa. H3Me^y AHa npecnaHCKor Je3epa h IlepHdepa Ta pa3JiHKa h3hoch 1678 m., a CKOpo hcto tonuKa je H3Mel]y OdpoBCKor Je3epa h Hhhc CnoncKa
KoT^HHa BHCOKa je 25C m., a JaKynnua H3Ha.ii. H>e 2250
m. OBAe cnyHJTaH>e h3hoch HaJMaHDe 2000 MeTapa.
CKOpo HCTa pa3^HKa je H3Meijy KocoBa Flojba (500 ao
600 m.) h LLIape (2510 m.). OBe pa3^HKe AOCTH>Ky HajBehy BHCHHy oko CojiyHCKor 3a;iHBa, kojh je Ay6oK
oko 1000 MeTapa, a H3HaA H>era je 0;iHMn bhcok 2935
m. Pa3;iHKa AaKJie h3hoch oko 4000 Meiapa. H3 OBora
ce bhah â je cnyniTatbe 6hjio Hajjane oko ErejcKor
Mopa h y ao;ihhh BapAapa.
y BpeMe KaA je noêjio paceAatte poAoncKe Mace,
Hacrajio je Ha6HpaH>e MJialjHx njiaHHHCKHx cHCTeMa Ha
Ba^KaHCKOM Ilo^yocTpBy. HecyMtbHBO je Aa cy tohbeHba h CTponoujTaBaHDa bckhkhx Maca KOj'a M cy y to
BpeMe BpmeHa y poAoncKOJ Macn, 3HaTHO yTHua;ia Ha
o6;ihk h npaBau MJialjHx naaHHHa. To ce bhah no TOMe
hito cy CBe Te njiaHHHe y o6;iHKy BejiHKor jiyKa rpynncaHe oko poAoncKe Mace, riopeA Tora, 6ope MJia1)hx nâHHHa HarHyTe cy yBeK y cynpoTHOM npaBijy
oa poôncKe Mace, h to 6ope AHHapcKor h rpHKO-ap6aHCKor CHCTeMa npeMa 3anaAy, a dope Ba^KaHa cKopo
6e3 H3y3eTKa npeMa ceBepy. H3 Tora ce bhah Aa cy
H3 poAoncKe Mace BpuieHH 6ohhh npHTHCUH Ha 6ope
Mâl)Hx nâHHHa. PoAoncKa Maca, Kao HajcrapHJH Aeo
KonHa, HHj'e cnyyKwia. caMO Kao 6paHa h ycraBa 3a
KpeTaHae 6opa, Beh je aKTHBHO ynecTBOBaâ y cTBapafey Mâi]Hx n/ianHHa THMe ujto je BpniHTia noTHCKe
y CBHMa npaBUHMa.
ce
OTJIHUH 3EMJbHIUTA
Kao ujto ce bhah, poaoncKa Maca npecraB;ba

npaBy paceflHy nâHHHy. HcnpeceuaHa je c BHiue yHakpchhx paceaa, TaKO na cy o^ npBodHTHe n/iaHHHe
ocra/iH caMO KOMann. HiviaMO, aaK/ie, y cpeaHHH Ba;iKaHCKor Ilo^yocTpBa ]ejxny dapy n/iaHHHy, Koja je
6e3 o6^HKa, 6e3 ue;iHHe h pa36HJeHa y 6e36poj ycaM/beHHx rmaHHHa h n;iaHHHCKHx rpyna. H3Meijy obhx
cy &y6oKe KOT.nHHe h pewHe o;iHHe, Koje cy o6hhho
Meljyco6HO Be3aHe, h hhhc rpyne on ayranKHx h npoCTpaHHX HH3HHCKHX JIHHHJa.
Haj,ny>Ky h HajnpocipaHHJy hh3hhcky ;iHHHJy npe/icraB/ba ROJiHHa Bapâpa, Koja je cacraBTbeHa on BHiue
npocrpaHHx KOiviHHa h peHHHx K^Hcypa. Ue;ia BapAapcKa JlojiHna npeAcraBJba o6;iacT y kojoj cy ce
CTeK/iH MHoro6poJHH pace^H, kojh ce HacraBJbajy xu>
/ihhom MopaBe npeMa ceBepy no YrapcKe PaBHHue h
Ha jyry no ocrrpBa CaHTopHHa y Cpeno3eMHOM Mopy.
BapnapcKa nojiana npeAcraBJba najBehy pace^Hy
/iHHHjy Ha Ba/iKaHCKOM rio/iyocrpBy h HaJBa>KHHJH n/iacthhkh e/ieMeHaT y ucioj MaKe;iOHHJH h BeheM ae/iy
Crape Cp6Hje. MaKcaoHHJy h CKoncKy dapy Cp6Hjy
OHa Ae/w Ha rbq CKopo je^HaKe no/iOBHHe, on koj'hx
je^Hy 30BeMO Hctohhom MaKeOHHJOM, a Apyry 3anaAHOM MaKeAOHHJo.M. Hoiuto Meljy Hctohhom h 3anaAHOM MaKeAOHHjOM HMa 3HaTHHx MopcJ)o.TOiiJKHx pa3;iHKa, nonuna Bapaapa npeACTaB:i>a, Ha Taj
naHHH,
Ba>KHy Mopc{)oôiiJKy npeKpcTHnuy. Te cy pa3.iHKe y
obomc y 3anaHOJ MaKeAOHHJH pace/in o6pa3yjy BHiue
rpyna, kojc HAy MaxoM y npaBuy ceBep
jyr. TaKBy
npBy rpyny o6pa3yjy paceAH kojh Hjy ao;ihhom UpHor ZlpHMa Ha Oxphacko Je3epo, Ma/iHMKo Je3epo n
na KOT^HHy Kopne. OBa rpyna paceAa npeACTaBJba, Kao
ujto cmo Beh HCTaK^H, BeoMa Ba>Kny TeKTOHCKy rpaHHUy H je.lHy OA HaJH3pa3HTHJHX n/iaCTHMKHX npeKpeTHHua. HnrAe ce Ha TaKO Ma/ieHy npocropy BC MOry
oceTHTH CBe n.nacTH iKe pa3/iHKe Koje nocTojo H3Meljy
poAoncKe Mace h M/ialjHX Ha6panHX n/ianHHCKHx chcreMa, Kao Ha oboj ^hhhjh. Ha 3anaAy cy M;ia/ie apGaHaiUKe n/iaHHHe, ycKHx, jaKo 36hjchhx Henaua kojh
cy cacraB/bCHH on M/ialjnx a -:\;\ lieflTapHHI CTena, ana
HOBA CPBHJA
MJ
HdOKy cy o6;iacTH npocTpaHHX KOTJMHa, h nêhaTHx

MaxoM ycaMJbeHHX njiaHHHa, Koje cy Me^y co6om pacraBJbeHe npocrpaHHM KOTJiHHaMa h 3apaBHHMa.
Hctohho or OBe jiHHHJe jaBJba ce hh3 imaHHHa
Koje cy, y ochobh, cacraBJbeHe oa pa3HHx na;ieo30jckhx creHa, a caMo no BpxoBHMa ce jaBJbajy Man>a
ocTpBa oa Me3030JCKHx CTeHa. y toj rpynn HaJBa>KHHJe
cy
njiaHHHe
fa^H^Hua,
rieTpHtbCKa
FIjiaHHHa,
H^HHCKa nâHHHa, CroroBo, JaMa, Bncrpa h Kopa6.

Hctohho oa OBe njiaHHHCKe rpyne je HH3HHCKa jihHHJa Koja Hê oa npecnaHCKor Je3epa Ha Khmcbo h
rio-nor. Yby na HCTOKy 3aTBapa rpyna nâHHHa Koja
noHHH>e oa K/wcypcKe rinaHHHe, na HAe Ha HepeACKy,
riepHCTep, Bnrjiy, npocrpapfeCKy, HejiojHuy h Cyxy
Topy kojx rio-nora, Koje cy cacraBJbeHe oa KpHcrajiacthx uiKpHJbaua h KpHcrajiacTHx KpeHfeaKa. UeHTpa^Hy
o6;iacT y 3anaAH0J MaKeAOHHJH npecTaBâ npocipaHa
BnTOJbCKO-npHJiencKa KoTJiHHa, Koja ca CapHtjo;iCKOM
Kotjihhom (o6;iacTH oko OdpoBCKor, FleTpcKor h BpanHHHKor Je3epa) npeAcraBJba HajnpocrpaHHJe yAy6jbeH>e,
y 3anaAHOj MaKeAOHHJH. H3Me^y OBor yAyGjbeHja h aojihhc Bapâpa HacTaje npocrpaHa njiaHHHCKa o6jiacT y
kojoj cy Hnqe, KoKyqb, J\ywu,a, Bâieu h Cejiemca, Koja
ce Ha ceBepy HacTaBJba y Ba6yHy. To je 06/iacr bhcokhxh npocTpaHHX nâHHHCKHxdHJia, HaJHenpHCTynanHHJa h HaJHenpoxo^HHJa o6;iacT y uejioj MaKeAOHHJH,
Kojy je npoceK;ia jcahho AOJiHHa UpHe Pene, h Koje
3aTBapajy BHCOKy nâHHHCKy o6;iacT Mophxobo. Te cy
nâHHHe cacraBJbeHe BehHHOM oa KpHcrajiacrHX h epynthbhhx CTeHa, nopeA kojhx ce, HapOMHTO y hctohhhm
napTHJaivia h 6mvKe aojihhh BapAapa, CBe BHUie jaBjbajy pa3He najieo30JCKe creHe.
OBa nâHHHCKa rpyna 3aBpuiyje ce Ha ceBepy
rpynoM njiaHHHa Koje cy cacraBJbeHe on najieo30jcKHx

h Me3030JCKHx CTeHa. HaJBa>KHHJe nâHHHe y toj rpynH
cy: JanynHua, rojieniHHua, XUyTHua h KapauHua. ripeAcraBJbajy o6jiacr HaJBHUJHX ManeAOHCKHx njiaHHHa h
H3BopHy o6jiacr Bpjio MHorHX peKa. 06e nocjieA*be
rpyne cawHPbaBajy jeAaH Ba:aH njiaHHHCKH 6eAeM kojh
pacraBâ 3ana^Hy ManeAOHHJy oa aojihhc BapAapa.
OBflHUH 3EM;bHIlJTA
31
HdOHHa
MaKeAOHHj'a je ^pyKMHj'er cacraBa h

CacraB/beHa je HCKJbyqHBo on KpHcra^HHx
iuKpH;baua h epynTHBHHx creHa. Pace^H uny MaxoM y
npaBuy HCTOK-3ana;j, h 36or Tora cy CKopo CBe kot^hhc,
h 3HaiaH neo n/iaHHHa. y TOMe npaBuy H3iiy>KeHe. Yc/iea
Tora npaBua, KOMyHHKauHje c BapâpcKOM Ho^hhom
cy MHoro /iaKuie, a 36or kshx HcTOHHa MaKe/iOHHJa HMa
HHTHMHHJe Ky;iTypHe h eTHorpacpcKe Be3e c ao/ihhom
Bapjiapa ho 3ana^Ha MaKeAOHHja. y ceBepHOM ,ne;iy
HdOMHe MaKeÔHHje, HapoMHTO Ha /locajjaiiJHDOj TypCKO-6yrapcKOJ rpaHHUH, npeB/iat)yjy bhcokc n/iaHHHCKe
o6âcTH; a ujto HêMO najbe npeMa jyry, kotahhc
nocTajy CBe qemhe h npocTpaHHj'e, a nâHHHe CBe
petje, HH>Ke h ycaMJbeHHJe. Ta nojaBa ce OHeK/ie bhah
h y 3ana;moj MaKeaoHHJH. OHa HaroBeunaBa y kom
je
npaBuy npouec paceixaiBa h TeKTOHCKor crponoiiiTaBaHja 6ho hhtchchbhhjh. CBe ihto hacmo /ia;be
npeMa jyry h o6a;iaMa ErejcKor Mopa, tcktohckh npouecH cy CBe M/iatjH h hhtchchbhhjh, crponoiHTaBaHDa
cy CBe M/iaija h CBe Behnx pa3Mepa.
FIojaBa na/ieo30jCKHx h mc303ojckhx creHa y 3ana^HOJ MaKeAOHHJH OKa3yje aa je 3HaTaH aeo 3ana^He MaKeÔHHJe y na;ieo30JHKy h Me3030JHKy 6ho
noTOHyo no^ Mope, y KOMe cy cTanomeHQ OBe creHe.
y Hctomhoj MaKeilOHHJH h y UeHTpa.THHM AeÔBHMa
poôncKe Mace Tora TOêita HHje 6h/io; Te cy 06/iacTH
Kpo3 CBa reo/ioiuKa BpeMeHa npe^CTaB.âê KonHo.
36or obhx pa3/iHKa H3Met)y ueHTpa/iHHX 06/iacTH po,ioiiCKeMace h n/iaHHHa 3ana;iHe MaKeÔHHj'e, noc/iejube,
y paHHj'a BpeMeHa, HHcy CMaTpaHe Kao êo poAoncke
Mace, Beh Kao zieo AHHapcKor n;iaHHHCKor CHcreMa. y
naJHOBHJe BpeMe, na/ieo30JCKe h Me3030JCKe n/iaHnne
3anaAHe MaKeÔHHJe CMaipajy ce Kao npe/ia3Ha o6;iacT
H3Metyy n/ianHHa rpMKo-ap6aHCKor h po/ioncKor cucieMa.
Jep one HMajy 3aje^HHMKHX oco6HHa c oCa^Ba chctcmh.
C rpMKO-apGancKHM 3aje;uiHWKO hm je to ujto cy cacTaB.heHe on ceziHMeHTapHHx creHa, h ujto ce ABa Hajn.iacTHKe.
Ba>KHHja Mopc{)oôiiJKa e.ieMCHTa, kot.ihhc H luaHiiHe

iipywajy y npaBuy eBep-jyr. A^h HnaK to npywarv
32
HOBA CPBHJA
HHje npecyâH (j)aKTop y n;iacTHUH 3ana;nie MaKe;u)Beh npouec paceflaiba, kojh je ztao AaHauiH>H
o6;ihk 3ana;moj MaKeÔHHJH, h kojh je 6ho hctoBpeMeH c ohhm y Hctohhoj MaKenoHHJH. Taj npouec
6ho je o;yiyqyjyhH 3a 3ana.zi.Hy MaKeaoHHJy, h oh je
jrrHuao Ha o6pa30Batt>e n;iacTHKe 3anaAHe MaKeaoHHje
CBe no AOflHHe UpHor flpHMa h OxpH^CKor Je3epa.
36or Tora UpHH XlpHM h OxpH^CKO Je3epo npencraBjbajy 3ana.zi.Hy MopcJojiouiKy rpaHHuy poôncKe Mace.
HHj'e,
y Be3H c obhm tcktohckhm oco6HHaMa poaoncKe

Mace je h nojaBa epyuiuueHux cmena y MaKeaOHHJH
h Crapoj Cp6HJH. flouiTo epynTHBHe o6;iacTH npeaCTaBTbajy Haj6oraTHJa pyAHniTa Ha Ba^KaHCKOM flojiyocrpBy, nHTatt>e nojaBe epynTHBHHx CTeHa HMa OBê BHiue
eKOHOMCKH h npHBpe^HH 3Haqaj, h 36or Tora heMO h>hxoBy nojaBy npHKa3aTH caMO y HaJKpahHM upTaMa.
flpaBau h pacnopcn nojeAHHHx pace.ua y po#onCKOj* MacH HHje 6ho caMO o# BaaoiocTH 3a âHaHJH>y
nâcTHKy, Beh h 3a nojaBy HerâiuHbHX ByjiKaHa h aaHaniHDH pacnopeji epynTHBHHx CTeHa. HaJBeha Maca
epynTHBHHx CTeHa Ha Ba^KaHCKOM Ilo^yocTpBy Be3aHa
je 3a BejiHKe paccznie ^hhhjc HMajy, y rviaBHOM, #Be
TaKBe JiHHHJe.
FIpBy npe^cTaBâ noMeHyTa MopaBCKO-BapâpCKa
;iHHHJa, a Apyry JiHHHja Koja pacraBJba jyacHe orpaHKe
Ba^KaHa on Cpe#H>e Tope, CaKpa h GrpaHue. FIpBa
npe^craBJba HaJBa>KHHJy pacenHy jiHHHJy Ha Ba^KaHckom no^yocTpBy, ^y>K Koje cy H3BpuieHa, Kao ujto
cmo BHucnH, Haj^y6jba TOHDetba Kope 3eMJt>HHe. 3Hanaj
Apyre JiHiwje je y obomc OHa ce y o^nroueHy h mhoueHy Ham;ia Ha rpaHHUH ABajy pa3^HHHTHX tcktohckhx noKpeia. Ha ceBepy, y Ba^KaHy je BpuieH npouec
na6HpaHDa, a Ha jyry, y poaoncKoj MacH, npouec pacenaH>a. npouec Ha6Hpan>a ce BHUje BpuiH y xopH30HTa/iH, h, Ka^ ce ycnopean c npouecoM paceâHba, kojh
ce BpuiH y BepTHKa^H, oh je MHoro njinhn. HauiaBniH
ce Ha npeKpeTHHUH thx ABajy pa3;iHHHTHx noKpeia,
jy>KHO-6a/iKaHCKa pace^Ha JiHHHJa 6n;ia je or ABa CKopo
0E/1HUH
33
3fc.MJbHLU.TA
cynpoTHa npoueca pacrp3aHa,
h 36or Tora
craB/ba/ia ziHHHJy Hajc/ia6Hje omopHe MohH.

cy ce y tboj jaBH/w ay6oKH pace/iH, ;iy>K
je
npea-
36or Tora
kojhx cy
H3BpuieHa Haj;iy6jba TOJbetba Kope 3eMa:bCKe. Ta toibeifea H3a3Baâ cy HCTHCKHBatbe orpoMHHx Maca JiaBe
H3 3eMa^>CKe yHyipauiFboCTH. 3a MopaBCKO-Bapâpcny
paceAHy /iHHHjy Be3aH je hh3 Be/iHKHx epynTHBHHx
06/iacTH. y H>eMy je, Ha ceBepy, Hajnpe py^HHMKa epynTHBHa 06/iacT, H3a Koje, Aajbe npeMa jyry, Rona3e
KonaoHHMKa, BpatbCKa, KpaTOBCKO-3/ieTOBCKa, mophxobCKO-MenieHCKa, tjeBê/injcKa h BcneHCKa. Taj hh3 3aBpiuyje ce y co/iyHCKOJ paBHHUH. y H>eMy je HaJBa>KHHJa h HajnpocTpaHHJa 06/iacT KpaTOBCKO-3/ieTOBCKa,
Kojy heMO y TpeheM e;iy OBe KhbHre HaponHTO onHcaTH.
Hpyni oilman hh3 MHHe o6.iacrH epynTHBHHx CTCHa
Koje ce jaB/bajy Ha jyry Ba/iKaHa h H^we^y n/iaHnna
HcTOHHe CpdHJe. OHe noMHtby Ha UpHOM Mopy jaM6o.icKO-6ypracKOM epynTHBHOM o6/iaiLihy, H3a Koje ce aa/be
npeMa 3ana,ay HacraB/bajy cpezitbe-ropcKa, BHCKapcKO,'byjbHHCKaHupHopeHKayHcTOMHOJ Cp6nJH.Taj hh3 epynTHBHHx deHa Be3aH je 3a yHyiapibH o6oa Ba/iKaHa h 3a
napowHTe TeKTOHCKe nojaBe Koje Hacrajy npn noBHJan>y
6a^KaHCKHx BeHaiia, h 3a y;iy6;beiba Koja ce jaB/bajy

na rpaHHUH H3Me^y orpaHaKa KapnaTa h Ba/inaHa.
II.
Pa3BMTaK
06/iMKa.
Pa,i cnojbHH.x CH.ia.
yHyiapH.e 3eMa.bCKe
cn/ie Koje CToje y Be3H ca

npeacTaB.bajy je;ian on naJBa>KHn
jhx (J)aKTopa y CTBapaiby n/iacTHMKHx 06/iHKa Ha 3CMaJbCKOJ riOBpiHHHH. TlopeKÔ H pail THX CH.ia BH^C.lil
cmo y nponi/ioj r/iaBH. One CTBapajy CTpyKTypy, r/iami.
H OCHOBHe UpTC y 3CM3.1.CKOJ n/iaCTHUH. HpcayKTH
ii.HxoBa pa.ia OAAHKVJy ce Be/iHKHM AmeB3HJam H
rpyGHM (])opMa.Ma. H>hxobhm gejCTBOM CTBOpenc
jiaJBehe n.iaHHHc iia sena/bCKOj HOBpuinHn Hj6tceHM
naJBehHX CMTCKHX MOpa. One ma.uiBajy nocrajan.r
hobhx n/iamiHa H pa36HJan>c H ynponaujhaBaibe cTax/iafr)eH 3 eM
ir.r. \
seitibe,
HOBA CPBHJA
34
npBH
upouec BpuiH y o6;iHKy H3H3aH>a H

Ha6Hpatba, a Apyrn y o6;iHKy paccnatta h dponouiTaBatba. 06a npoueca aajy njiacTHUH CBaKe 3eMjbe
H>eHe ,HHMeH3HJe h ibem
oho uito je iviaBHO y HdOJ
OCHOBHe MOp(J)OJIOUJKe upTe.
riopcn yHyiapHoHx 3eMajbCKHx cHJia, or orpoMPhjhx.
ce
Hor 3Hanaja cy h cnojbHe 3eMajbCKe CH/ie, Metjy kojHMa Ha npBOM MecTy aojiase pa3He aTMOC(j)epcKe
cune. Metjy H>HMa je HaJBaHomJH pa^ TeKyhHx BO.ua,
3aTHM je3epCKe h Mopcne BO#e, h Ha nocjieTKy ao;ia3e AHeBHe h ro;miuH>e npOMeHe y kjihmh h TeMnepaTypH Ba3^yxa. O k>hxobom pa^y roBopHhe ce
onuiHpHHj'e Ha HAyhHM dpaHaivia. OBê heMo HdahH
caMO HaJBHAHHJe h HaJKapaKTepHCTHMHHJe oco6HHe h>hxoBa paâ. Taj ce paa cacroJH y CTBapaH>y hobhx
cacTOJH ce ynpaBO
o6jiuksl Ha totobhm npeAMeTHMa
kojh cy HacrajiH
o6jeKaia
njiacnmKHx
y MoaejiHpaiby
jxejcTBOM yHyTapfeHx 3eMajbCKHx CHJia. TaKBa ce npe^daBa Ao6Hj'a yBeK Kan nocMaTpaMO na^HHe HeKe
nâHHHe Kojy cy H36pa3na;ie MHore peKe h noTOUH.
Te CHJie pa3opaBajy h pa3H0ce CBany njiaHHHy, CBaKO
6pô h CBaKH Aeo 3eMajbCKe noBpiHHHe kojh ce anace
H3Ha^ MopcKor orjieaajia. OHe, âKJie, CBa y3BHmeft>a
MOêjiHpajy h pa30paBajy, ynpaBO pa3opaBajy hx moAe/inpajyhH. flope^ Tora Te CHJie He Tpne bhchhckc
pa3^HKe, rpy6e (J)OpMe, hh BeJiHKe ^HMeH3HJe. 36or
Tora Ha cyBOJ 3eMjbH OHe pa30paBajy CBe uito ce oa^HKyje H3BeCH0M BHCHHOM, IlITO CTpiIIH H UITO HMnOHyje, a MaTepnja;i kojh ocTaHe on Tora pa30paBait>a
npeHecy peKe no o6a;ie MOpCKe h Ta;io>Ke ra Ha any
Mopa h oKeaHa. Thm MaTepHJaÔM HcnyâBajy MOpCKe
KOT^HHe, h tbHxoBa AHa CBe BHiue ce y3#H>Ky npeMa
bhchhh MopcKor oivieAajia. Te cn/ie He Tpne, aaKJie, hh
BejiHKHx BHCHHa hh npeTepaHHX ^y6nHa. hbHxoBa je
rexuha na 06/iHKe 3eMajbCKe noBpiHHHe AOBe,ziy y H3BeCHy BHCHHCKy paBHOMepHOCT.
C o63HpoM Ha OBaKaB pa#, cnojbauiH>e CH/ie cy
na3BaHe pa3opHHM h/ih AecrpyKTHBHHM cHJiaivja, jep
oHe pa3opaBajy CBe nâcTHMKe o6jeKTe Ha 3eMajbCK0j
;
noBpiiiHHH.
CynpoTHO TOMe, pa yHyTap?*>HX
CHJia
ivjo-
iMUH 3tM7bHHJTA
rao 6h
ce,
no cbojhm HaJBa>KHHJHM oco6HHaMa, 03Ha-
ihth Kao CTBapajyhH. OBe 03HaKe, pa3opHH h crBapajyhH, HMajy caMO Ba>KHOCTH Kan je roBop o bhchhckhm pa3^HKa\ia Ha 3eMa;bCKOj noBpuiHHH. HHane, pan
cnojbHnx (})aKTopa, c o63HpoM Ha opraHCKH >khbot h
ochobh je MHoro noBO^HHJH ho

pa^ yHyiapfcHx 3eMa;bCKHX CH/ia.
Oil HapOHHTe Ba>KHOCTH 3a /byACKH >KHBOT je tt>Hxobo pa3opaBaibe bhhjhx nâHHHa, Koje cy, 36or cboJHX BCTCHKHX BHCHHa, OUITpHJe K.lHMe h c/ia6nje nnonhocth, y oniHTe He3roHHJe 3a opraHCKH >khbot h ^>y^CKy Ky^Typy. MBpcre creHe on kojhx je cacraBJbeHa
3eMa/bo<a Kopa o6hhho cy, caMe no ce6w, Hecnoco6He
na aajy xpaHy opraHCKHM dBopoBHMa. Tpe6a na noty
yTHuaJH cno.-bHHx (J)aKTopa, HapoHHTO npoMeHe y Ton/ioth Ba3/iyxa h Ba3;iyiiJHa boas, na #a ce Te creHe
pacnpcHy h na ce npeTBope y CHTaH necaK y KOMe
oH/be MO>Ke ycneBaTH. 3a JbyacKH >khbot h Ky/nypy
on HaJBeher 3Hanaja je pan Tenyhe BOê, Koja npoceua n/iaHHHe, OTBapa 3aTBopeHe kot/ihhc h noMohy
peMHHx nojiuna, Koje OHa y mbpctoj creHH H3^y6e,
CTBapa ^y^HMa MoryhHOCTH na c Matbe Hanopa npe,ia3e Behe o6.iacTH. Th OAHOinajn H3Me^y pana ne.'by^CKy Ky.nypy, y
dpyKTHBHHx
CH/ia h /byacKor >KHBOTa cy M.MorocrpyKH

h pa3HOBpcHH, h c ibHMa heMO ce y naujeM pany Meujhe
cpeiaTH. OBjie Tpe6a na ce HcraKHe to na cno;bHH
cj)aKTopH âjy noc/iexubn o6/ihk nâcTHUH CBaKor 3cm/bHiHTa, h na HMajy MHoro Teimbe Be3e c opraHCKHM
>khbotom h jby^CKOM Ky/iTypOM ho yHyTapibH 4>aKTopH.
36or Tora heMO ce paaoM npBnx (faKTopa Ma;io bhhjc
na6aBHTH.
I.
/lejcTBo je3epCKe Bo/ie.
ErejcKO Jeiicpo h
ii.ciokii
yinuajn.
y oho BpeMe KaA cy ce OHe npoMCHe Bpnju.ic y pononcKOJ nâHHHCKoi Macn Ha jyroHCTOKy on Da/iKaHCKor
rio/iyocrpBa, y 06/iacrH aaHaujjber ErejcKor Mopa anaaa.ie cy iipyKHHJe np&ftHKe. V to BpeMe BHJC Gh/io ia
iiaujHier ErejcKor Mopa, Beh je Mecro Hera 6h/io koiih<>
36
HOBA
CPliH.lA
Koje je Be3HBa;io Ba^KaHCKo riojiyocrpBO cMaÔM A3hjom

Tora KonHa cy AaHaiHH>a ocipBa h nojiyocrpBa
ceBepHor Aejia ErejcKor Mopa (CnopaAH, KHKJiaAH,
Tacoc, JleMHoc, Jle36oc). y to BpeMe HHJe 6hjio hh
5oc(j)opa, hh JlapAaHejia, hh MpaMOpHor Mopa, h moivio
ce H3 EBpone y A3Hj'y npe;ia3HTH cyBHM. CuaBHO ce
3Ha Aa je to KonHO 6hjio noKpHBeHO 6e36poj*HHM je3epHMa, oa kojhx cy ocTa^H MHoro6poJHH TparoBH Ha
pa3HHM erejcKHM ocTpBHMa. y HaJHOBHJe BpeMe T. Ubhjnh je yTBpAHO Aa CBa Ta je3epa HHcy HHurra Apyro
AO npeocTaTUH jeAHor orpoMHor je3epa Koje ce npyxlzjio oa npeno;iua h rpAeflHHKe fOwcype ao erejcKHx
ocTpBa Koca, PoAOca h KpHTa, h ao o6a;ia Majie A3Hj'e.
To Be^HKo je3epo Ha3Bao je EzejcnuM Je3epoM. hberoBy ocHOBHy noBpuiHHy MHHHâ je odjiacr oa BoAeHa
Ha 3anaAy ao MecrHHe Kjincype Ha HCTOKy, h oa Be.
OcTamH
jiaome Ha ceBepy ao CeBepHHx CnopaAa Ha jyry. H3

Te ocHOBHe Mace hojjih cy pa3HH Kpaun kojh cy 3aâ3H^H Ay6oKO Ha jyr, 3anaA h ceBep, h HcnyHHJiH
je3epcKOM boaom CKOpo CBe KOTJiHHe MaKeAOHHJe,
CTape Cp6HJe, Tecajinje h TpaKHJe. JeAaH TanaB Ay6okh 3a;iHB Huiao je aojihhom BapAapa ao CKoncKe
KoT^HHe, Koja je y HajcrapHJoj (})a3H npeACTaBJbajia
jeAaH oa HajnpocrpaHHJHx h HaJAy6jbHx 6aceHa Tora
Be^HKor je3epa. H3 CKoncKe Kotjihhc nojia3HJia cy
Tpn KpaKa, oa kojhx je jeAaH nuiao AaHauitbOM npeuieBCKOM yAOJbHHOM h cnajao ce c BpaH>CKHM 6aceHOM,
Apyrn je Hujao KaqaHHHKOM KjiHcypOM h cnajao ce ca
kocobckhm 6aceHOM, a Tpehn je nuiao AaHauntOM BapAapcKOM K^HcypoM, JlepBeHT, y tctobckh 6aceH. M3
BpatbCKor 6aceHa Huiao je jeAaH pyKaBau, Kpo3 TpAe/mqKy fOincypy, h cnajao ce c jiecKOBanKHM 6aceHOM,
kojh je npnnaAao jeAHOM ApyroM, hcto TaKO orpoMhom je3epy, FlaHOHCKOM Je3epy, Koje je noKpHBaô
ue^y AaHaiHH.y yrapcny PaBHHuy, 3axBaTajio ue;iy AaHauiH>y LUyMaAHJy, h Ay>K MopaBCKe AO^HHe Aonnpajio Ha jyr ao JlecKOBua h FIpoKynjba. H3 KocoBCKor
6aceHa, kojh je npnnaAao ErejcKOM Je3epy, Hiujia je
npeKO ripenoûa jeAHa OTOKa Koja ra je cnajaâ c npoKynaMKHM 6aceHOM, kojh je npnnaAao FlaHOHCKOM Je-
01,/lHUH MKMJbHLUTA
37
Kocobckh 6aceH 6ho je Aajbe y Be3H c mctoxhjckhm 6aceHOM, kojh ce npoayacaBao najbe ,ny>K nojiane UpHMa MOKâ npeMa cKaâpcKoj kot^hhh.
3epy.
Ha jyro3anaAHOJ fberoBOJ nepH({)epHJH, y jâHaiuCo/iyHCKOJ KaMnatbH, o#Baja;ia cy ce flBa KpaKa,

h to jeâH je Hiuao ^y>K aoahhc pene BHcrpnue ao
AaHaumer KocTypcKor Je3epa, a ApyrH on Boaena npeKo
MyxapeMCKe Fipecen/iHHe y 06/iacr âHanjtbHx je3epa
OcTpoBCKor, BpanHHMKor, IleTpcKor h 3a3epaua. rioc/ieflFba neTHpH je3epa npeacTaBJba/ia cy je^Hy je3epcKy ue^HHy mhjh ce 6aceH npy>Kao on Kh3/ih HepBeHTa koa JlepHHa ao Kapaua/iapa Ha ceBepy on Cp6nue. To je3epo Ha3Bao je T. LJBHJHh KâcHMHHM hmchom
EopaejcKO Je3epo. Oho je 6h;io OTBopeHO Ha TpH
dpaHe, h to: MyxapeMCKOM je3epoy3HHOM 6h/io je y
Be3H ca co^yHCKHM 6aceHOM h c rviaBHHM 6aceHOM
ErejcKor Je3epa, Kapaya/iCKOM je3epoy3HHOM Ha jyry
KOMyHHUHpa/io je c jy>KHHM erejcKHM GaceHOM, a kh3/ihAepBeHTCKOM je3epoy3HHOM npe;iHBa;io ce y aaHaintby
6HTO^>CKO-npHêncKy h/ih ne/iaroHHJCKy KOT^HHy. fleâroHHJCKO Je3epo npywa.io ce jxaneKo Ha ceBep H3Mef)y
nâHHHe Ba6e h BadyHe, 6h/io je 3aTBopeHO ca cbhx
cTpaHa, h mhc/ih ce na Hnje oTHuaô hh npeMa rojiuhu
Bapâpa, hh npeMa Oxphackom h FIpecnaHCKOM Je3epy.
npe^CTaBâô je #aK/ie HajoflBojeHHJH h naj3ana;iHHJH
neo ErejcKor Je3epa. Ha 3anaAy on ibera, Kao HapoMHTa je3epcKa rpyna Koja HHje 6n/ia y Be3H c ErejcKMM
Je3epoM, 6n/ia cy aaHainiba jeaepa, Oxphacko h npecnaHCKO. ripBO je HMa/io CKopo hcth o6/ihk Kao h
iiaHac, a jpyro ce npy>Ka;io Ha ceBep no Pecua h na
jyr no Kopwe h ro Aanaunber Ma/iHHKor Je3epa.
ApecnaHCKO, Ma;io h Ma/iHMKO Je3epo npeAcraB/ba/ia
cy je/UH je3epcKH 6aceH. H3 BapâpcKor 6aceHa npy>Kao ce jeân KpaK jxy>K ao/ihhc UpHe Kpo3 o6.nacr
MopnxoBO, h Aonnpao je ojx npn/iHKe no npea .ianaiiiH>y CKOMHBHpcKy K/incypy y ao/ihhh UpHe.
Kao ujto cmo BHê/iH, HMaMo TparoBc jeAHor
orpoMHor je3epa Koje je 6h/io AyraMKo npeKo neT
CTOTHHa KH.ioMeTapa, h Koje je cbojom boaom 6h.io
HcnyHH/10 CKopo cbc kot/ihhc (/rape CpGHJe, Mane
feoj
HOBA CPBHJA
38
HHJe, CeBepHe TpHKe, TpaKHJe, JyacHe ByrapcKe h

3HaTHHX aejiOBa 3ana;me Ma;ie A3HJe. 3eMJbe BajiKaHcKor no^yocrpBa H3iviefla;ie cy y to BpeMe cacBHM
apyKHHJe ho AaHac. To je 6wia npaBa je3epcKa oSjiacT,
Moivio ce Ha CBe dpaHe nyTOBaTH je3epHMa, jep CBa
Mecra Koja AaHac ;ie>Ke Ha Ha^MopcKoj bhchhh HcnoA
800 m. 6nâ cy noA boaom, h 36or Tora cy CBe npeceflJiHHe HcnoA 800 m. npe^CTaBJbajie je3epoy3HHe koJHMa ce moivio njiOBHTH.
Obo je3epo cupHcaô ce Kao uejiHHa CBe aok ce
HHJe no*iejio o6pa30BaTH ErejcKO Mope, HaponHTo
HjeroB ceBepHH ,aeo. Taâ 6HBa paceAaibeM OTBopeH
H>eroB jy>KHH okbhp, h BOâ ErejcKor Je3epa noneâ
je OTHuaTH y ErejcKO Mope. To OTHuaibe jane ce oceTH/10
Hajnpe y 3ana,zjHHM je3epCKHM 6aceHHMa. noHHHby ce
3ana,zi;HH 6aceHH npeTBapaTH y 3ace6Ha je3epa. Hajnpe
ce h3.hbojh;io FleâroHHjcKo Je3epo, na OHâ Eopnejcko. FleâroHHJCKO Je3epo h3abojhjio ce 3a BpeMe Tepace 1 oa 670 #o 680 m. Oho y to BpeMe ry6H Be3y
c EopaejcKHM Je3epoM. noaie,att>e y hcto BpeMe ry6H
Be3y c E/iHMejcKHM Je3epoM (KOTJiHHa Cp6Hue), a^H
3aap>KaBa Be3y c Akchjckhm Je3epoM, Koje je 3ay3HMa.io y niaBHOM AaHaniFby Co;iyHCKy KaMnaity. HhtcpecaHTHO je aa je ErejcKO Je3epo, h nocjie noniTO je
H3ry6H;io Be3e ca 3ana^HHM ManenoHCKHM 6aceHHMa,
o^pHcaô CBOJ AyÔKH 3a;iHB kojh je Hiuao aojihhom
Bapâpa naK ao rpaeJiHHKe JOwcype. Hcto TaKO o#p>Kaô je noaie Tora h Be3e c naHOHCKHM Je3epoM. To je
BepoBaTHO moivio 6hth ycne;; Tora ujto cy ce y oboj 06,/iacTH BpjiiHJiH npouecH HHTeHCHBHHjer cnyuiTafta, Te je
TaKO BapaapCKH pynaBau ErejcKor Je3epa Morao ay^Ke
BpeMeHa ji& ce o#P>kh y Be3H c rviaBHHM je3epcKHM
daceHOM.
Obhm H3flBajatt>eM mh cmo AOUHHJe ao6h;ih BHiue
caMOCTa^HHx je3epcKHX 6aceHa, oa kojhx cy hckh y
noMeTKy 6h;ih Be3aHH caMo OTOKaMa, a AOUHHJe cy h
Te oTOKe npecyuiHê, na cy MHora caMo Kpo3 nojêMHe
1
Je3epcKe Tepace cy npH6pe>KHe je3epcKe ^HHHje Koje 110Ba/iOBa. O HsHXOBy nociaHKy ro-
dajy yziapHOM cHaroM je3epcKnx

BOpHheMO flOUHHJe.
0B/IHU.H 3EMJbHUITA
39
nehHHCKe xo^HHKe Mel]yco6HO KOMyHHUHpaâ. Hhbo

H30.iOBaHHx je3epa h flajbe je cn;iaujH>aBao. HHTepecaHTHO je Ra je to cn;iaLUtt>aBaH>e Boê BpmeHO CKopo
y CBHMa je3epHMa napa/ie;iHO. TaKO, Ha npHMep, y cbhmi
KOT^HHaMa caMocra^HHx je3epa bhahmo Ra HMa hcth
6poj Tepaca, caMO Te Tepace peTKO cy Here bhchhc
Hivia 3HaKOBa Ra to cn/ianjttjaBatt>e HHje hui/io phtmhmkh, to jeer Ra ce je3epcKa BORa cnycTHâ Ha jeâH
hhbo na ce Ty hcko BpeMe 3a^p>Kaâ, na ce noHOBO
cnycrn/ia Ha join hh>kh hhbo h Ty ce oneT Heno BpeMe
3a;jp>Ka/ia, h TaKO najbe. Cn/iaHJHDaBaH>e je3epcKe Bojie
BpuieHO je ocuH^Hpajyhn. Boâ ce je3epcKa cnyuiTa/ia
Ha jeâH hh>kh hhbo h Ty je ocrajaâ hcko H3BecH0
BpeMe. yâpHOM CHaroM cboj'hx Ba/ioBa, OHa je y
npH6pe>KHHM napTHJaMa yceuaâ 3ape3 h;ih Tepacy.
Flocne H3BecHor BpeMeHa je3epcKa BORa ce He cnycrH
Hero ce noHOBO nonHe 3a hcko^hko MeTapa, noTonH
MHora Hace;ba h rpaljeBHHe Koje cy ce Ha;ia3H.ne Ha
o6a/iH h/ih Ha cyBy. Tepaca ocraHe hcko/ihko MeTapa
hor boaom. OBe noRBORne Tepace, 3aTHM TparoBH Hace:ba, TeMejhu Kyha h apyrnx 3rpaAa kojh ce Ha/ia3e
ncno;i Boae, Haj6o/bH cy 3HaK 3a to Ra ce hhbo je3epa
noneo. H3a OBora Hacraje noHOBHO cn/iauifbaBaibe je3epcKor OMeââ, h oho ce o6hmho cnycrn HH>Ke Hero
iHTO je h paHHJe 6h/io. 3a obo OBaKO cn/iaimbaBajbe
je3epa y KOMe HMa h Haao;ia>KeFba h y3MHua*ba je3epcKe BOAe, Ka>KeMO Ra ce Bprnn ocuH/inpajyhH, a oho
cn/iaujHDaBatt>e kor Kora BOâ ona.ua Ha Hume HHBoe
na ce BHine HHKaA hc noBpaha na BHUje, Ha3HBaM0
Phtmhmkhm onaaafbeM.
OBa K0/ie6aiba je3epcKe bojiq 6n/ia cy HajoceT.bHBHj'a h naj6o.*be cy npoywena Ha Octpbckom Je3epy.
Ko je nyTOBao >Ke/ie3HHU0M or Co^yHa BnTO/by, Morao
je c ocrpoBCKe >Ke/ie3HHMKe craHHue Ra bhah y je3epy
jeâH KpembawKH Kpm Kojny 06/iHKy no/iyocrpBa 3a;ia3H
y jC3Cp0, H KOJH JC C KOnHOM BC3aH jeflHHM CQRJIOM.
Ha TOMe Kpiijy HMa TeMeâ h 3H^0Ba or Kyha, a na
Bpxy ce bhrm yaMHJa c MnnapeTOM. Ty je ro npe ne
aeceT h neT roAHHa 6h.io cc/io kojc ce 3Ba/io Crapo
OrrpBo. Oho je MMa.no CYBy MSV C koiihom. Qkq
HOBA CPBHJA
40
18581860 roAHHe none/ia je je3epcKa BOâ HaAo/ia3hth, noTonnjia je Majiy npece^JiHHy, h oa Tora no;iyocTpBa nocTa/io je caMO Ma;io octpbo. CejbauH cy ce
pa36erviH h Hace;w;iH y BoêHy, BHTOJby h okojihhm
Ueo
Kpm, ochm Bpxa Ha KOMe je uaiviHJa,

6ho je noji boôm. Boâ ce 6una none/ia oko 18 MeTapa H3Ha^ cBor paHHJer cratta. TaKO cy nonâBJbeHa
MHora ceâ h MHorH nyieBH Ha o6a;iH OcipoBCKor
Je3epa, a MHora ocrpBa y je3epy 6H;ia cy noKpHBeHa
bojiom. ToAHHe 1899 Taj je Kpm npe.a.CTaBJbao nojiyoctpbo hhjh je Bpx, Kpm ca uaMHJOM, 6ho 17 m. Ha.n;
bohom, a 1910 H3 BOê je BHpHO on Hbera caMO Kpm
ca uaMHJOM. Kao ihto ce bhah, y Octpobckom Je3epy
Boâ ce H3BecHO BpeMe nunte na ce OH,na cnyuiTa.
BpeMe Koje npoTeKHe H3Mei]y HaJHHacer cnyuiTaft>a h
HaJBHiner H3aH>a je pa3JiHHHTO y rviaBHOM, Taj pa3MaK
y BpeMeHy h3hoch 23 jxo 33 roAHHe.
OBaKO pHTaMCKH h ocuHJiHpajyhH cnyuiTaâ ce
Boâ cBHJy MaKeÔHCKHx je3epa, ochm OxpH^CKora.
CnyuiTajyhH ce TaKO, BOAa je3epCKa je Ha noaieTKy
H3ry6nâ OTOKe Ha noBpuiHHH, h je3epo je npecrajio
Aa othhc OHa je3epa Mnja je KcnvmHa cacraBJbeHa oa
KpenH>aHKHX CTeHa, nonejia cy Ha nocneTKy aa oTHny
Kpo3 no^3eMne nehHHe h xoflHHKe, kojhx y KpemtaqKHM
TepeHHMa yBeK HMa. Ha Taj HaqnH CBa 3ana^HO-iviaKeÔHCKa je3epa, H3y3eB OxpH^CKO, npecrajia cy aa
OTHHy no noBpuiHHH, Beh oTHny noA3eMno, Kpo3 no^3eMne nyKOTHHe h nehHHCKe xoahhkc TaKe noii3eMHe
OTOKe HMajy npecnaHCKO, Majio, Octpobcko, FleTpcKO
h BpanHHHKO Je3epo.
Joui BHUie cy ncyineHa h cnâcHyâ OHa jesepa
Koja cy ce Ha;ia3HJia 6;iH>Ke Bapâpy. Oa MHoro6poJHHX
je3epa Koja cy ce HeKaA Ha;ia3HJia y KOT/iHHaMa Kpo3
Koje AaHac Bapaap npojia3H, ocra/ie cy caMO Matte
MOMBapH h 6apc i<oje ce caâ ona>Kajy Ha HaJHH>KHM
napTHjaivia thx KOTJiHHa, napoHHTO y flo;iory h CKonce/iHMa.
Taj
ckoj Kotjihhh.
Oa
Hei<aAauiH>HX bc/ihkhx je3epa Jy>KHe
MaKeÔHHje, ocrajia cy nc3HaTiia je3epa Koja cy MaxoM

6e3 OTOKe, w Koja CBe BHiue Ao6HBajy mrneji MOHBapa.
Be3 HKaKBe otokc cy Ty3;iy- Fr>o;i, BeuiHMKO h AjBar
OI./IHUH 3EM/bHUJTA
41
PwaHCKO h AMaTOBCKO Je3epo wviajy

upHBpeMeHy OTOKy, a caMO HojpaHCKO Je3epo HMa
HopMa/my OTOKy, Koja OAH;ia3H y PwaHCKO h Am3tobcko
Je3epo. OBa je3epa HeMajy hh no^3eMHnx OTOKa. Ycneii
Tora lino He OTHwy HHKya, y ibHMa ce Bpuie Be;iHKa
BOêHa HcnapaBaFba. MHoro6poJHH MHHepa.iHH cacrojun
kojh cy ce Ha;ia3H;iH y je3epcKoj boah, h Koje ziOHOce
noTOUH h peKe, none/in cy na ce y Behoj MepH Ta/io>Ke Ha jiuy h no OKpajuHMa thx je3epa. Tano cy
ch/icko Je3epo
Hajnpe cra;io>KeHe M/iaae KpewtbaHKe creHe. y caaaunbe

BpeMe y hckhm je3epHMa ce Ta/io>Ke cojih (NaCl h MgCb).
y HaJHOBHJe reo/ioiuKO BpeMe, Ha o6a/iaMa obhx
je3epa Ta;io>KH ce HCKJbyqHBO co. Co ce Ta;io>KH/ia h
3a BpeMe BH3aHTHJe, jep KaHTaKy3eH cnoMHFbe cnaHa
je3epa y 6;ih3Hhh Co/iyHa. Ta/io>KeH>e c/iaHe nope Hajjaqe je y Ty3/iy-Too/iy, AuH-Tbo^y h AMaTOBCKO-apwaHCKOM Je3epy. Hero TaKO npnnajy ce^>auH n,a y
cKoncKoj BâTHJH, Koja npcucraB/ba nocne;ubH ociaiaK
Heraauitber CKoncKor Je3epa, H3a jyiapibe poce, Ha
TpaBH ocraHe Hena co Koja ctouh MHoro npHJa.
MHoro6poJHH cy 6h/ih y3pouH kojh cy yTHua/in
na ce HcyiuH bcahko ErejcKo Je3epo h noje^HHa Maiba
je3epa. Ha npBOM Mecry yTHua/io je to iuto ce crponoujTa/ia 3eMa;bCKa Kopa y iberoBHM jy>KHHM napTHJaMa.
Thm CTponoLUTaBaH>eM oTBopen je jy>KHH o6o^ 4 ErejCKor Je3epa h oho je otck/io y ErejcKo Mope. To je
6ho npBH h MaBHH y3poK ujto je npona/10 KrejcKo
Je3epo. noaie Tora cn/iatmbaBa/ia cy h HcyujHBa.ia ce
nojeiiHHa OABOJeHa je3epa. Ako npoMaTpaMO pacnopeA
thx je3epa, onâ bhahmo jxa hx HaJBHine HMa y 3ana/iHOJ MaKeÔHHJH, Maibe y J>tohctomhoj, a y ciHBy
Bapâpa HeMa hx HHKaKO. Hero TaKO ona>Ka ce Aa cy
ce y 3anaHOJ MaKeAOHHJH OApwa/ia caMO OHa je3epa
Koja HHcy 7 c;iHBy Bapjiapa. Ako npaTHMO reo/iouiKy
HCTopnjy Bapâpa, BHêheMO na cy Hcyiuena cBa OHa
je3epa y Koja je yuj/ia Ma Koja npHTOKa Bapaapa. npeMa
TOMe, jeaaH oa MaBHHX y3poKa ujto cy npona/ia Miiora
caMOcra/iHa MaKeÔHCKa je3epa 6ho je Bapaap, kojh
ce cbojhm npHTOKaMa 3aceuao y OKBHpe KOT/inna y
KojHMa cy 6una je3epa, 3a/ia3HO y kot/ihhc h Mcyujiiiiao
HOBA CHBHJA
Ha kojh HaMHH
râBa.
H^yhHx
or
hx
je
to BpmeHO, BHAeheMO y jeAHoj
IlopeA OBora, 6ho je oa b3>khocth h jeAaH Apyrn

to cy npoMeHe y kahmh. H3 3eMJbHHe npoUIAOCTH 3HaMO R3L Ce HeCTO jaBJbaO HH3 TOAHHa Koje
cy 6oraTe khuiom h CHeroM, a H3a h>hx cy ce jaBâê
roAHHe Koje cy cyiiiHe. Y npBHM roAHHaMa CBe pene
HMajy BHiue BOAe h CBe cy Ay6A>e; je3epCKa boas y
TaKHM roAHHaMa HaAOAa3H, nette ce, nAaBH tbHBe, nyTeBe h Hacejba, Kao iiito cmo bhacah y Octpobckom
Je3epy. 3a BpeMe cyuiHHx roAHHa BOAa onaAa, h mh
Haâ3HMO noA ibom TparoBe HerAamiber JbyACKor paâ.
To cy Ta HHTepecaHTHa KAHMCKa KOAe6aii>a, Koja ce
H3MeHayjy or npHAHKe CBaKe TpHAeceT h TpH roAHHe.
Ako hacmo Ry6jbe. y npouuiocT, mh HaAa3HMO
TparoBe jeAHor Beoivia BAaaoior h xjia^Hor Ao6a Koje
30BeMO Aedeno do6a. 3a BpeMe AeAeHor ,3.06a KAHMa
y cpncKHM 3eMâMa 6wi3. je BAaaoia h xAaAHa or npHAHKe Kao y AaHaniJboj CKaHAHHaBHJH. Taaa cy nojeAHHa MaKeÔHCKa je3epa HMaAa BOAe y H3o6HJby, h
ibHxoBe KOTAHHe 6une cy HcnyHbeHe boaom. flocAe
Tora HacrynHAO je cyBJbe h TonAHJe BpeMe, Koje Tpaje
CBe ro AaHac. HeMajyhn aoboa>ho npHTOKa, je3epCKa
ce Boaa CBe BHiue ncnapaBaAa h cnyiiiTa;ia, rok ce
Be^HKa je3epa HHcy pa36HAa y 6e36poj MaibHx, hah
cy ce cacBHM HcyiHHAa.
(J)aKTop, a
ErejcKO Je3epo 6hao je oa BeAHKor yTHuaja Ha

nAacTHKy MaKeAOHHj'e h CTape Cp6nje h no H>eH rou,hhjh pa3BHTaK. MHoro6poJHH cy TparoBH oa OBor je3epa canyBaHH y AaHainitoj nAacrnuH MaKeAOHHj'e h
CTape Cp6Hj'e. Ko je 6ho, Ha npHMep, y CKonA,y h
neo ce Ha CKoncKH rpaA, BHAeo je Ha jyry c OHe CTpaHe
BapAapa nAaHHHy Boaho. Ako ce nocMaTpajy ceBepHe
naAHHe Te nAaHHHe, BHAehe ce Aa OHe He naAajy y
o6AHKy OAceKa hah y o6AHKy jeAHe HarHyTe nAouiTHHe,
Beh ce ona>Ka Aa cy Te naAHHe pauiHAatbeHe Ha BHuie
paBHHJHx noAOBa h Mara>Hx OAceKa kojh naAajy npeMa
CKonA>y h npeMa aoahhh BapAapa. 36or thx noAOBa,
ueAa ceBepHa naAHHa BoAna HMa H3rAeA orpoMHHX
Ob/IHUH 3EMJbHHJTA
43
deneHHua, y Kojwvia cy noje^HHH cryntbeBH bhcokh

no 6/iH3y croTHHe Meiapa. Ca rpa.ua ce MO>Ke Ha6pojaTH oko /iBafleceT TaKHx nojxoBa, on kojhx cy MHorH
npoKHHyTH h HcnpeceuaHH japyraMa h AO^HHHuaMa
MafeHxnoTOKa. Kaa 6hcmo H3Mepn/iH BHCHHy thx nojeflHhhx noAOBa, OHâ 6hcmo bhac/ih na ce cbh th noaoBH,
no cbojoj bhchhh, Mory rpynHcaTH y #Be a MO)KAa h
y TpH BHCHHCKe ue;iHHe. HaJBHiiiH noAOBH npe^craBâjy
KOMaê je^He Tepace Koja ce AH>Ke oko 460 MeTapa
H3nan ô^HHe Bapâpa, a H3naA Mopcne noBpiuHHe 3a
750 m. To je HajuiHpa h HajnpocrpaHHJa Tepaca, Koja
y HaJBehoj MepH o6pat)eHa. Hcnofl H>e ce bh#h HHaca,
3HaTH0 y>Ka Tepaca, Koja je MHoro BHiue HCKHâHa, a
y Matboj MepH o6pa\)ena. Ta je Tepaca BHCOKa 640 no
670 MeTapa. Hcno/i h>hx ce bhh jom je;ma MHoro
paBHHJa h HH>Ka Tepaca, wnja ce paBHHHa npy>Ka on
ce/ia Bo^na no ô^HHe Bapâpa, npeMa kojoj ce OHa
JIOMH H CnyilJTa jeAHHM Bp/IO CTpMHM oacckom. OlHMHe
npHJiHKe ce BHae h y BpatbH, HapoMHTO Ha na^HHaMa
nâHHHe Kpcrn/iOBHue, Ha KOJHMa ce bhah ceâM TaKHx
noiiOBa, CBe jeâH noBpx Apyror. HaJBHUJH h HajnpocTpaHHJH noAOBH 30By ce TioiHKa. OBe Tepace ce BH/ie
y CBHMa KOT^HHaMa Crape Cp6nje h MaKe/iOHHJe, or
Fpfle/iHHKe K/iHcype no Teca^HJe. Te Tepace cy MaxoM
cacraBêHe on (})HHHJer necKa h r/iHHe, a nocyTe cy
iecro uubynKOM, h 3aTO cy 3roziHe 3a 3eMJbopaAH>y
h Hace/bene cy. Ako npaTHMO pacnpocrpaibeH>e nojeahhhx Tepaca, BHzieheMO na ce najBHrne Tepace He 3aApwaBajy y KOT^HHaMa, Beh H3/ia3e H3 ibnx na ce jaBJbajy y cyce^HHM KOTJiHHaMa, H3 kojhx oneT H3.ia3e
na ce yBâne y nojeAHne K.incype, y KOJHMa H3r/ieAajy
Kao HeKH BHcehn noAOBH, Kpo3 ibHx ce npo6HJajy h
jaBJbajy y Tpehoj kot/ihhh, h nay TaKO no ue/ioj 3eM^>H.
36or obhx Tepaca na/jHHe nojejiHHHx KOT/iHHa h nonHHa He naâjy onaKO crpMeHHTO h He H3Me;ujy Kao
CTeHOBHTH 3hôbh, Beh ce cnyiiJTajy crymbeBHTO h
MaxoM cy o6paêne. TaKaB H3rvie;i na^nnaMa nojeaHhhx jxo^HHa h KOT/iHHa zia;io je ErejcKO Je3epo. hbeobo ce aho HeKaaa ne.no no HaJBHUJHx Tepaca. Taâcn
je
je3epa yAapa.nn cy Ha
Ty o6a/iy, 3acena/iH ce Ha
noj,
HOBA CPBHJA
npaBH;iH yceKe h noAOBe Ha tboj, h Ta;io>KH;iH Ha H>HMa
je3epcKH Myjb, necaK h uiJbyHaK. IIoiuto ce je3epo
cnyuiTaô CBe HH>Ke, oho je h Ha hhjkhm cbojhm craHaHMa cbojom yâpHOM CHaroM CTBapaô Tepace, h 3aTO
Ha CBaKOJ na^HHH HMa hx y BeheM 6pojy.
y Be3H ca OBaKOM HcropHJOM ErejcKor Je3epa
pa3BH^H cy ce o6;ihuh bcjihkhx Kjincypa Ha BajiKaHckom FIo^yocTpBy, HapOMHTO y Grapoj Cp6HJH h MaKeAOHHJH. Ko je nyTOBao Kpo3 je^Hy or thx Kjincypa,
Ha npHMep Kpo3 rpAeJiHHKy, KanaHHHKy h/ih hh3 BapAap, h aKO je na3H0 Ha o6;ihk obhx Kjwcypa, oh je
Morao BHêTH obo. CrpaHe thx aojiHHa Ruiny ce or
pene Hajnpe CTpMeHHTO Ta ctpmchhtoct npe;ia3H KaTKaR y npaBe creHOBHTe OAcene, h #o;iHHCKe na^HHe
HMajy H3r;ieA okomhthx 3H.noBa. KaR ce HcnHeMO Ha
npBH OAceK, OHâ o6hmho bhahmo #a ce c o6e CTpaHe
.nojiHHe, rope noBpx ocena hh3 peny, npy)Kajy noAOBH
KOJH Cy HCTO TaKO Ca CTpaHa 3aTBOpeHH CTpMeHHTHM
naAHHaMa. Kan ce nonHeivio h Ha OBe na^HHe, Ha H>HMa
oneT Haâ3HMO noÔBe kojh nay y npaBuy pene h
kojh cy oneT 3aTBOpeHH na^HHaivia. neibyhH ce TaKO
or pene y3 na^HHe H>eHe Ronime mh Ha;ia3HMO BHiue
OBaKBHx noAOBa. Ako 3arjie,naM0 y ^Ha obhx noaoBa.
BHjieheMO, BehHHOM, r& ohh HHcy cacraBjbeHH or HCTor
MaTepnjaâ or Kora cy cacTaBJbeHH ctchobhth oaceuH
kojh 3aTBapajy kophto AaHauiH>e peKe, Beh or necna,
r/iHHe h o6jiyTKa. flo oBOMe necKy h niHHaMa HayKa
o^pe^yje uiTa cy to hoaobh, rz jih cy to ocraTUH or
Rua Hene penHe AOJiHHe hjih or je3epoy3HHe.
KaR ce OBaKBe KJincype nocMaTpajy c Behnx bhCHHa, H3rê,najy Kao ROJiune Koje ce CBe BHuie cyacaBajy
h y KOJHMa nojczmHe Tepace H3rvie,najy Kao yMeTHyTe
o;iHHe. OBe Tepace h noÔBH cy or Be;iHKor 3Hanaja
3a )khbot y obhm KflHcypaMa, h 3a tt>HX0By npoxoahoct. JXna AaHauiHsHX AOJiHHa Mory Ra HMajy h cbojhx
npouiHpett>a noja 6h ce Morvia o6paijHBaTH h Ha KOJHMa
6h ce HOBen Morao Hace/iHTH. Ajih cy TaKBa MecTa
MaxoM 3aicnohbeHa or cyHua, h no BehH rqo AaHa
Haâ3e ce y ceHun, a or peMHe BO/ie noja ce y peun
o6apa npeKO 6p3aKa h c/ianoBa, Rime ce napa noja
;
0E/1HUH 3KM.1>HIUT.\
OBa Mecra mhhh B;ia>KHHM, 3hmh je30BHTO crynQHHM h

BeoMa He3roAHHM 3a >khbot. Ako y K/iHcypH HeMa npocrpaHHJHx npoiuHpetba Koja cy nyme h jaqe ocbctjbeHa, Hace^?a H36eraBajy OBaKBa nojiuucKa rpoTâ h
nctby ce Ha Tepace, Koje cy 3a 3eM:bopa;iiby 3roAHHje,
Koje cy cyHHaHHj'e, cyB/be, CBeT^Hj'e h 3a ;by.acKH >khbot
noBO^HHJe. TaKBa Mecra y K/mcypaivia Koja cy jane
H3HeceHa npeMa cyHuy h 3aK/iOFbeHa on BeTpa, wecro
npeAcraBâjy Mecra Heo6HMHo 6/iare K^HMe, h Mecra
BeoMa 3ro;iHa 3a
/ieMH/inuiTa.
FIphmhthbhh khphuhjckh
cao6pahaj kojh je CBe no HaJHOBHJer BpeMeHa B/ia;jao

y obhm o6âcTHMa, h kojh je Ha pacno/iowetby HMao
cacBHM npHMHTHBHa TexHHMKa cpe^CTBa, o6hmho Hnje
Morao a ce Bprnn nopezi pene, Beh ce neo Ha TaKBe
ncxnoBe h Tepace h HLuao je nyw. ibHX.
THnoBH obhx flo;iHHa Haj6o.be ce Mory bhucth
aKO ce or Cb. H;iHJe (E/iec XaHa) y KanaHHMKOJ K/ihcypn nonHeMO npeMa ce/iy 5/ian.HMa. TaKBor cy Tuna,
y rviaBHOM, CBe BapâpeBe K/wcype on CKon.-ba no Conyua. OBe cy K/iHcype nocra.ie Ha OBaj HaMHH. OHe cy
y CTapnja reoôujKa BpeMeHa, h to y BpeMeHa npe
Hero je nocra/io ErejcKO Je3epo, 6H/ie MaH>a cyBa
y/ierHyha, on kojhx cy Kpo3 Hene Morvie Tehn h pene.
BehHHa thx yrtemyha nocra/ia cy cnynjTaibeM 3eMJbHujTa /iy>K Behnx nyKOTHna y Kopn 3eMa;bCKoj. Kan je
nocTaô HrejcKO Je3epo, h Kan ce iberoBO or/ieaa/io
noneô no bhchhc thx y/iernyha, oho ce ynuno y n>ux,
y HeKHMa ce none/io no Be^HKe bhchhc, h OHe cy npeAcraB.ba.ie je3epoy3HHe, a y ^pyrnMa je 6h;io n^HTKO, h
je3epcKa ce BOâ ay>K FbHx npe/iHBa/ia H3 kot/ihhc y
KOT^HHy. Je3epcKa bo/u yaapa/ia je y CperoBe thx
0/iHHa, noarpHâ/ia je h.hxobc naaHne, CTBapa/ia je
Tepace h ype3e, h Ha Taj naMHH hx je npoujHpHBa/ia.
KaKO je y je3epHMa cn/iawn.aBa/ia BOâ, cn;iaiHibaBa/ia
je h y h>hxobhm OTOKa\ia h je3epoy3HnaMa. JIho crape
OTOKe ocraô je rope y BHCHflH, H jeaepCKB BOAa je
none y hh3hhh noHOo mnpH.ia aho je3epoy3Hne h
nonoBO je crBopn/ia na cbom any Tepacy h Mpea na
cbojhm iia/wnaMa. Ona AOJiHHa je 6H/ia y>Ka on OHe
HcyujeHe CH.ia je ynpaBO yceieHJ y iboj, M lur.iejia.ia
HOBA CPBHJA
46
Kao aa jy je HeKO yMeTHyo y crapHjy aojiHHy. TaKO

ce cnâimbaBaibeM je3epcKor oivieAajia CBe BHiue cny-
je
aho je3epoy3HHe,
aojiHHa joj je 6HBa;ia CBe

y>Ka, a CBe BHiue HeKa,naiuH>Hx aojihhckhx noÔBa ocrajajio je y BHCHHaMa. Ha noaieTKy je npecyuiHJia je3epoy3HHa h Mecro H>e ce jaBHJia pena. OHa je y nocneAHae aho je3epoy3HHe yceKaa CBOje kophto, Koje
ce CBe BHiue y.ayo'jbHBajio h yceuaô, aok #0JiHHa HHJe
&o6ma cboj KjmcypacTH o6;ihk ca ctpmhm ctchobhthm
iiiTaô
na^HHaMa, h y6oKHM h ycKHM aojihhckhm ^hom.

flopeA obhx yceKa h Tepaca, on ciapor ErejcKor
Je3epa ocrajie cy MHore 3apaBHH, Koje ce nunty n3naji
AaHauiBDHx penHHx AO^HHa no HeKOJiHKe ctothhc MeTapa, h Koje cy MaxoM OTBOpeHe y cbhm npaBUHMa.
CBe TaKBe 3apaBHH Koje ce Ha;ia3e Ha BHCHHaMa Hcno^
800 m. npeAcraBJbajy ocTaTKe Hei\o;auiH>er je3epcKor
AHa. OGh^ho cy cacraBJbeHe or ivuiatjHx mckiuhx CTeHa,
h nocyie cy necKOM h uubyHKOM. Or thx noBpuiH
obc
H3Me^y TpAejiHHKe Kjincype h ErejcKor Mopa
HaJBa^HHj'e cy
HMa y râBHOM RBe TaKBe noBpuiH.
JeflHa, BHiua, pa-
cnpocrpaHbeHa je H3BaH h H3Ha,n, KOTjiHHa, h tbeHa ropH>a

HBHua aoriHpe ô bhchhc oko 800 m. Oco6hto je npoCTpana h THncKH pa3BHj'eHa oko Bapnapa, or CoJiyHCKe
KaMnafBe ro KanaHHHKe h rpêJiHqKe Kjincype. Y h>oj
cy yceneHe cse K;wcype Bapâpa, Ha HBHuaMa je pa3hobpcho pa3rpaHaia h Hapowro ce y6oKO yBJiaqn y
floTnyHO ce aia>Ke c pacnpocTpaft>eH>eM ErejCKor Je3epa 3a BpeMe HberOBHx HaJBHiuHx oraita BOê;
AOJiiiHe.
ochm HaJBHiue
erejcfce Tepace,
Koja je ropH>a
HBHua
OBe noBpuiH, Ha H>oj ce Kao BHJyraBH o#ceK bhah Ha

BHiue Mecra h je3epcKa Tepaca or 670 690 m.
Hoioa OBe HMa HH>Ka noBpui, pa3BHj'eHa noiviaBHTO Ha 060Ay je3epCKHX KOTJIHHa, MeCTO H Ha HHCKHM
npenaraMa H3Mei^y KOT/iHHa nocjie,nft>e je Bpcre paBHa,
npocTpaHa noBpm H3Me^y AKcnjcKor, MnrAOHHJCKor h
CTpHMOHCKor Je3epa, 3aTHM ypaBH>eHO 3eMJbHurre H3Meijy TpnnoJbaHe h JlapHCKe Kotjihhc nnja noBpuiHHa
cene HaGpaHe MepMepe. Hn>Ka noBpui ce noTnyHO aia>Ke
ca pacnpocTpaH>eH>eM ErejcKor Je3epa hhckhx cratt>a
OIl.lHUH 3l-;M:bHLLITA
17
h/ih ca pacnpocTpatt>eH>eM nojeaHHHx kot/ihhckhx je3epa, 3aTO ce Ha \bo] BHê oBne OHAe o/iceuH h.ih
o6a;ie thx je3epcKHx crania.
OBe CBe noBpiiiH cy je3epcKor nopeK-ia h ewe cy
n/iHOueHe CTapocrH. 3ay3HMajy 3HaTHe Ae/iOBe Ba;iKaHCKor Ilo^yocTpBa, h Aocajia cy yTBptjeHe h HcnuTaHe norâBHTO y 06/iacrHMa ErejcKor h IlaHOHCKor
Je3epa. Ha ceBepy or TpAe^HHKe K/wcype jaB/ba ce
npocrpaHO ypaBêHo 3eM^>HiuTe, c bhchhom oko 750
m., h c/ia>Ke ce c pacnpocrpaHDeHaeM HaHOHCKor Je3epa
n^HOueHe CTapocTH. BehH #eo CeBepHe h Cpeê Cp6HJe npHnaaa oboj h/ih hh>koj noBpiuH, Hapcmmo ue;ia
LllyMa^HJa, h oâBAe ce OHa npcTacro yBâMH y CBe
r/iaBHHJe aojiuhq. 3aceHeHa je y Hajpa3HOBpcHHJHM cra-
pHM creHaMa, h peTKO cy Ha HdOj cmyBaHH je3epcKH

ce^HMeHTH. Here Bpcie je noBpiu Koja je pa3BHJeHa
y CeBepHOJ Bochh, h HaponHTO y CeBepHOj" ByrapcKOj
oa HyHaBa ro Ba/inaHa, rê ce TaKot)e npcTacro yB/ianH
y3 6a/iKaHCKe ao/ihhc Mcokc ce npaTHTH Kpo3 ue/iy
B/iaiuKy HcnoA Jy>KHHx Kapnaia, y Koje ce y3 ao^hhc
npcracTO yBâHH, a jaBJba ce h y yHyTapibHM KapnaTckhm 6aceHHMa.
TaKHx noBpiuH HMa y Mctoxhjh, oko jlpHMa h
CnaAapcKor B;iaTa, y aoiboj XepueroBHHH h HaîaUhjh. CKaâpcKa noBpiu je BepoBaTHO MapHHCKor nopeK/ia, jep je #OKa3aHO na je Ta 06/iacr y n/iHOueHy
6H/ia noTon/beHa MopeM.
Je3epcKe cy noBpiuH jaKO pacnpocrpie Ha Ba;iKaHCKOM rio^yocrpBy, h HMajy bc/ihkh 3Hanaj 3a 6a/iKaHCKy Mop4)0ôrHJy.
2.
Pan TeKyhHx Boaa.
y obom
o/ie/bKy heMO H3HeTH KpaTaK nper/ie/i o

TOMe KaKO cy nocTa/ie h KaKo cy ce pa3BH.ie peMHe
AO/iHHe y MaKeÔHHJH h Crapoj Cp6HJH. npn o6paAH
Tora nHTan,a ApaoheMO ce OBor peaa. Hajnpe heMO
H3HeTH oniuTe XHaporpacjKKe npu.iHKe y MaKCAOHHjii

h Crapoj Cp6nJH, na heMO npehn Ha online oco6hhc
ilhxobhx AO.'iHua. 3aTHM heMO [ipehH Ha CTBapH KOJC
HOB A CPBHJA
18
KapaKTepncnmHe 3a noje^HHe peKC

ii ifcHxoBe aojihhc Una noc/ieTKy heMO H3HeTH reo;ioiiiKy
HCTOpHJy nOJe^HHHX OJlHHa, KOJOM heMO 06jaCHHTH
cy cneuHa^He h
KaKO cy OHe
Koje ce
nocra/ie.
Hajnpe BHê
Mhcjihm aa
je
OBaj
IloHeheMO naKJie
ojx
oco6HHa
Koje cy HaJHHTepecaHTHHJe.
HanHH H3âratba obhx nHTatba
A sroâH he 6hth HaponHTo ca.ua, nocne

paTOBa y KOJHMa cy orpOMHe Mace Haiuer Hapoaa
npomjie Kpo3 OBe 3eMJbe h yno3Ha;ie hx y ucjihhh.
ZIpyrH aeo Haiuer Hapoâ, npaTehH BOJHa KpeTaH>a,
HMao je HenpecTaHo reorpa(j)CKy KapTy npe^ o^HMa,
h TaKO cy onuiTa reorpa(})CKa 3Han>a y HameMJiapoay
caâ 3HaTH0 npouinpeHa. MHorHM HauiHM 6hctphjhm
BOJHHUHMa .ziecHJio ce oho lino ce emaBa;io MHorHM
nyTHHUHMa kojh cy nponyTOBajiH Be;iHKe o6;iacTH ohh
noHHft>y reorpa(J)CKH npOMaipaTH. HecTH cy caâ aiyqajeBH na h HecrpyqHa Jinua Tpaace o6jainH>eti>a o hhTepecaHTHHM reorpa(})CKHM nojaBaMa Koje cy 3ana3HJia
Ha cbojhm bojhhm noxo^HMa. 36or Tora heMO mh none c npHKa3HBaHDeivi ohhx nojaBa Koje cy HaJBHuie
yoqjbHBe h Koje cy HaJHHTepecaHTHHJe.
HaJ3roAHHJH.
a)
PeiHH H MOpCKH CJiHBOBH.
Pene MaKeAOHHJe h CTape Cpdwje o6pa3yjy TpH

MOpCKa H BHUie peHHHX CJIHBOBa. Mel]y MOpCKHM CJIHBOBHMa HaJBa^KHHJH je g/ihb ErejcKor Mopa, kojh je
bchhk 48.311 km. 2 h KOMe npnnafla HaJBehn aeo MaKe,noHHJe h CTape Cp6nje. DiaBHa peKa y c/iHBy ErejCKor Mopa je Bapâp, mhj'h c^hb je bcjihk 27.925 km.-,
h kojh npeACTaBJba HaJBaaoiHJy peKy y yHyTpauiH>ocTH
uejior Ilo^yocTpBa. Oihb UpHor Mopa y Grapoj Cp6hjh Be^HK je 13.698 km. 2 y ibeuy je HaJBehn ckhb
peKe MopaBe, KOja ca cbojom noBpuiHHOM on 8552 km. 2
npeflcraBjba CKOpo flBe TpehHHe uejior upHOMopcKor
crcHBa. CBe peKe ja^paHCKor MopcKor cnHBa npHnaâjy
c^HBy peKe JlpHMa, kojh ce zieJiH Ha cjihb 5e;ior
,
flpHMa (4.271 km. 2 ) h Ha cjihb UpHor flpHMa (3.367

2
km. 2 ). Flopefl obhx ocTaje HaM noBpuiHHa o,n, 5.059 km.
,
OL/1HUH 3ElUbHUlTA
Kojy caMHFbaBajy c/ihbobh nojeAHHHx noHopHHua m

06/iacrH 6e3 oTOKa.
Pa3Bol]e H3Me!iy ErejcKor h JajipaHCKor Mopa HMa
KapaKTep HopMaAHor pa3Bot)a, jep ce ap>kh n/iaHHHcKor BeHua kojh un.e oa HepeACKe H/iamme, Ha FlepHdep, Bnr/iy, nocTpafoCKy nânHHy, Bncipy h LUapn/iaHHHy. Pa3Bofje H3Meljy erejcKor h upno-MopcKor
cAHBa ap>kh ce y r/iaBHOM BeHua LUapa UpHa Topa
(Kapaâr) PyjaH. Hoahhom JleneHua o6.iacT erejcKor
cviHBa npeâ3H npeKO Tora BeHua, yâ3H y KOTAHHy KocoBa FIoA>a, ii Ty, Mecro HopMa.iHor pa3Bot)a, Haciaje
noBHJa, pa3Boê y kot/ihhh. C.iHMaH o6/ihk HMa pa3uo\)Q. Ha npemeBCKoj npeccA^HHH.
CBe pene 3anaAne
MaKeaoHHJe, H3y3eBuiH o6âcTii 6e3 OTOKa (cahbobc
je3epa CapnljOAa, Ma/ie h Be.iHKe npecne), 3aTHM ycKe
06/iacrH apiiMCKor c.THBa, npnnaAajy CAHBy peKe BapAapa h BHCTpHue TâBHe npnTOKe BapAapa y 3anajxiioj
MaKeôHHJH cy: TpecKa, MapKOBa PeKa, Ba6yHa, UpHa
PeKa, Kapa A3MaK. To cy yjeAHO h iviaBHe Aecne npnTOKe BapAapa. /IeBe npHTOKC BapAapa cy /leneHan,
fIqHH.a ca KpHBOM, Bpera.imma ca 3/ictobckom PeKOM
h KpHBOM JlaKaBHuoM. 06hmhhm pa3Maipan,CM na KapTH
bhah ce na je cahb BapAapa HapoMHTo npocipan y

3anaAnoj MaKeAOHHJn. Ha /icboj* cipann BapAapa H>efob cihb je npocrpaH caMO y CKoncKOJ Crapoj CpCnjn
h CeBepo-HCT04HOJ MaKCAOHHJH, r\ae cahbobhm3 nqHHc
ii
Bpera/iHHue AOCTH>Ke y npaBuy npeMa ncroKy najliinpe CBOJe ^HMeH3HJe. MeljyTHM y jy>KHOM je.iy cboj'c
/icbc o6a/ie, Bapâp 3HaTno ry6n y Be/nmnnH cBora
c/iHBa, 3aTO UJTO ce cahb CrpyMe, ao.thhom pexe OpyMHue, a>6oko yB:iaMH npeMa 3anaay H Aonupe y nenocpeAHy 6.iH3nny BapaapcKc- /Io.ihhc. 36or thx npn.iHKa,
Bapâp na cbojoj JieBOJ CTpami, oa yiuha Bpei a.nnme
npeMa jyry, HCMa hhjcahc Behe npnTOKe. KaA ce OBe
npn^HKe nocMaTpajy c Mopc})OAOLHKO-reoAoujKe Ta ike
r/ieAHLHTa, oiiAa ce mokc pehH Aa je BapAap ycneo Aa
npoujHpH cisoj cahb CByaa iac ce uncy OCehaAH hobii
yTHuajn kojh cy HacTa.in nocraHKOM ccBepnor ;i
trejcKor Mopa. IloiiiTO h Crpy.Mima npuna/u CAHBy
Erejcxor Mopa, 0Ha je MOMa hc caiio
i
ll"UA ('MIJA
HOBA CPl.HJA
f>0
ripen perpecHBHOM epo3HjoM Bapaapa, Hero 4aK je

ycneBaâ h aa MecrHMHije bo^h c h>hm ycneiiiHy 6op6y.
36or TaKBHX npHJiHKa, pa3Botje H3Mel)y Bapâpa h
CTpyMe npejxcraBJba BeoMa H3BHJyraHy KpHBy jiHHHJy
KOJa HaJIHHH Ha flBOCTpyKO JiaTHHCKO cjiobo S. Pa3Boije H3Mei)y Bapâpa h CTpyMe Hê Hajnpe nâHHHckhm BeHueM OcoroBHJa-Maêm, rê ce c;ihb Bapâpa
npHMHne aojihhh CTpyMe Ha o#CTOjaH>e oji\5ro 20 km.
BoAOAeJiHHua, KOJa je no jy>KHHx orpaHana Majienia
HiiiJia
y npaBuy ceBep-jyr, oajchhom ce noBHja y
npaBau jyroHCTOK-ceBepo3ana,zj, p>KH ce hcko BpeMe
nânKaBHue, na or ft>e CKpehe noHOBO jyry h ap>kh
ce y rviaBHOM cpejiOKpahe H3Meljy LLlTHna h PanoBHiiiTa.
OaaTJie BOAoê^HHua OKpehe noHOBO Ha hctok, jep
BapâpeBa npHTOKa KpHBa JlaKaBHixa ycneBa rsl ce
ay6oKO yByne y o6;iacT CTpyMe. Ha 3ana#y or BapouiH
CTpyMHue BOAOAeflHHija C e Rpxai noBHJapua Fl/iaym
njiaHHHe h ujie y rviaBHOM napa/ie;mo c aojihhom BapAapa. Kor BapouiH CrpyMHue pena CTpyMa ycneBa rb.
ce je^HHM cbojhm KpaKOM npHMaKHe Bpô 6;iH3y ro y
#o;iHHy Bapâpa, h Ty ce BOAOAeJWHua npHMnqe rojihhh Bapâpa Ha oflcrojatbe on 10 ao 15 km.
6)
HeKOJiHKo
HHTepecaHTHHX nojaBa y peMHHM

AOiiMHaHa.
Be^HKe cTapocp6HJaHCKe h ManenoHCKe peKe orTHMe ujto MHore or h^hx nocTajy y npoCTpaHHM KcnviHHaMa Koje cy HeKaâ 6H;ie HcnytteHe
je3epHMa. TaKO, Ha npHMep, Bapâp nocraje y nojioniKoj Kotjihhh, BejiH JlpHM nocTaje h pa3BHj'a ce y Metoxhjh, HaJBehH aeo Co/iyHCKe BHCTpHue pa3BHja ce y
.jiHKyjy ce
kot/ihhh HeKaAauifter E/MMejcKor Je3epa, a IipHH UpHM

nocTaje y Oxphjxckom Je3epy. y OBOMe h y mhohim
nojaBaMa bhrq ce Be3e H3Mef)y HerAauiHjHx h AaHanih>hx je3epa h penHHx AOJiHHa.
Hpyra onuiTa nojaBa je Ta uito Be^HKa BehHHa
râBHHx peKa Tene y MepHAHj'aHCKOM npaBuy, h to y
npaBuy ceBep jyr, ceBepo3ana,n-jyroHCTOK, h o6paTHo.
TaKaB npaBau y rviaBHOM HMajy OBe peKe: Bapaap,
OtiJIHUH 3KMJI.HUJTA
51
UpHH JlpHM, CrpyMa, Mecra, BncrpHua, Ta^HK, Mo

paBa h MHore H>HX0Be npHTOKe. Or Ba>KHOCTH je r2l
ce HcraKHe h to rz. OBe peKe He TeKy y HdOMe cviepy
h ano cy HCTora npaBua. BehHHa peKa Tene y npaBuy,
or ceBepa Ha jyr h;ih or ceBepo3ana;ia Ha jyroHCTOK,
a/iH hx HMa Aocra Koje TeKy h y o6paTHOM npaBuy
to jecT y npaBuy or jyra Ha ceBep h on jyro3ana;ia
Ha ceBepoHCTOK. y TOMe ce pa3.iHKyjy peKe MaKe.noHHJe h Crape Cp6Hj*e or peKa MHorHx cyceAHHx 06âcTH, HapoHHTO Cp6nje, CocHe, Ap6aHHj'e, y KOJHMa
CKOpo cse rojiuhq HMajy MaxoM hcth npaBau h CBe
peKe TeKy CKopo y hctom CMepy. C tom pa3.iHK0M y
Be3H je h OBa. y nocneaibHM o6;iacTHMa npaBau peMHHx
AO^HHa ynyheH je y npaBuy naâ nojeziHHHx bhchhckhx
ue.iHHa; peKe Cponje, Bochc CeBepHe ByrapcKe H
Ap6aHHJe TeKy y npaBuy na/ia n.naHHHa, a i\iaBHa pa3BOâ ^p>Ke ce HajBHUJHx n.iaHHHCKHx BeHaua kojh ce
Ha/ia3e y ilhxoboj no3ajHHH. y MaKeaoHHjn h Crapoj CpoHJH n.naHHHe peTKO o6pa3yjy bc/ihkc n/ianHnCKe BeHue, Beh Bp/10 necTO npeacraB/bajy H30/iOBaHe
BHCHHCKe ue/inne, h 36or Tora HHcy Morvie 6hth or
TaKor yTHuaja Ha npaBau penHHx ROJiana. OBê cy
o6hhho Be/iHKa TeKToncKa y/iemyha h tcktohckc hh3HHCKe .THHHJe npe^craB/ba/ie oG.iacTH y KOJHMa cy ce
cKyn;ba/ie Bone Ma/inx peKa h o6pa30Ba/ie ce Bche
peKe. OHe cy mccto o6pa30Ba;ie h npBo6HTHy penny
6a3y ORZKne cy peKe yHa3a noMepa.ie CBOJa KopHTa,
naceua.ie ce y n/iaHHne h n/iannncKe npenare H3Me))y
nojcAHHHX KOT.inna. To noMepan>e pemwx ao/inna y
Ha3a ;T hujô je Mecro TaKO jia/ieKO rz cy KaTKa.i 6mBaê npeceneHe HaJBHine n.ianHiie, a peKa je cbojhm
penoM /locervia y cyce/wy KOT/iwuy, y kojoj je CBe
peKe noxBaTaâ h npnnojn/ia hx y ce. IlpBoGnTHO,
peKa je 6n.ia rzkjiq npncn.i>ena rz ce ap>KH npaBua
BC/IHKHX TeKTOHCKHX y.lCIfiy ha, KOJHMa je OHa MOMa
Haj6p>Ke H naj.iaKUJe nocrnhn MaBini uh:i >KHBOTa CBaKe
nojeAune peKe, to jeer Halm cboj H3/133 Ha MopcKy
oGa.iy. rioujTO cy Bounce hhjhmckc /ihumjc npeaecTHunpane bctchkhm paceAHMa, kojh
izom hiii.th y
pHflHJaHCKOM npaBuy, pa^yM^HBO HaM je 3auiT0 Behnna
HOBA CPBHJA
peMHHx AO^HHa y 3ana^Hoj h CpeaiBOj MaKeAOHHjn

Hiiajy MepHUHjaHCKH npaBau. PeMHe ,no;iHHe cy nojaqaê h o;iaKuia;ie npoxoAHOCT tcktohckhx hh3hhckhx
jiHHHJa h THMe 3HaTHo .nonpHHejie TOMe uito cy OBe
o6;iacTH HapoqHTO npoxo^He y MepnnHJaHCKOM npaBuy.
Tpehy Ba>KHy oco6HHy hhhh caM o6;ihk penHHX
AO^HHa, 3aTHM jaqHHa h HaMHH TOKa h pana peqHe
boac Be^HKa BehHHa pena MaKezuDHHJe h CTape Cp6nje HMajy K0MU03UuiHe iajiw cacuiaejbene doAune.
OHe cy cacraBJbeHe oa HH3a KOT.iHHacrHX npouiHpetfca
Koja cy Me^yco6HO Be3aHa aojihhckhm TeaiauHMa h
K^HcypaMa. OBaj o6jiuk penHHX AOJiHHa yaioBJbeH je
HapOHHTHM MOp(j)OJIOUIKHM pa3BHheM obhx 06/iacTH, a
Ha npBOM MecTy thm uito cy pene HMaê .na ce pa3BHJajy y o6:iacTHMa qnje cy ochobhc n;iacrHHKe upie
Beh hujie H3pai)eHe, uito cy ce RZKJie pa3BHJa/ie y
Hac/ieênoj nâcTHUH, Koja ce, Kao uito cmo paHHJe
HCTaKJIH, OAÎHKOBaâ H30^0BaHHM npOCTpaHHM KOTJIHHaMa, Koje cy 6une nocrajie y>K H3yKpuiTaHux ;iHHHJa
oa pacczia. FIoujTO je pena HMaâ roTOBe HH3HHCKe
^y>K KojHx je H3paljHBa;ia cBOje kophto, h n>eH
rviaBHH
ce
Mopc})o/iouiKH paA cacToiao y TOMe na noBe>Ke H30.iOBaHa KOTJiHHacra yAy^Jbetba, na npocene
H3Met]y Pbux npenare h ctboph KJiucypacre nojinne.
/iHHHj'e
Ko
nocMaTpao jeHy Behy MaKeÔHCKy peKy

y ue^HHH, Morao je ona3HTH aa qecTO y He3HHy aohbeM TOKy cpeTaMO ycKe, KJweypacre ao^hhc Koje
cy nyHe 6p3aKa h cnanoBa, h 36or Tora OHe Hucy hh
y HajiiohbeM jieny cbot TOKa 3roAHe 3a n/iOBHA6y.
Hcto TaKO, necTO y roptt>eM TOKy thx pena Hatjy ce npocrpaHa KopHTa y KOJHMa peKe Teny cnopo h M/iHTaBO,
npaBehu 6e36poj 3aBOj'a (MeaHziepa) h cTBapajyhu npuBpeMeHa je3epa, cra;iHe Monapu h 6apyuiTHHe. HaJHHje
je to uito ce Tane pa3;iHKe Bp/io qecTO

ona>Kajy y jchhoj hctoj peuH h uito ce nan Mory h Buuie
nyTa #a noHOBe y je^HOj hctoj penHOj aojihhh. Cnopo ce
MO>Ke pehn a& pena OBe oco6HHe npoMeHH oho^hko nyTa
Kp03 KO/1HKO KOTJIHHa H KJIHCypa npolje y CBOMe TOKy.
Jep totobo y cBanoj Behoj kot^hhh jaBe ce y Behoj
MepH oco6HHe Aoiber TOKa, a y CBanoj K/incypn oco6HHe ropiber TOKa. Te cy nojaBe Ba>KHe AaKê 36or
TepecaHTHHJe
OBJIHUH 3EM:bHUJTA
<
Tora ujto OHe oco6HHe Koje cmo hsbhr^h na rvieaaMO

y ÔKseM Tony peKa Ha;ia3HM0 y roptbeM, h o6paTHO.
C obhm y Be3H cy h OHe HHTepecaHTHe Be3e H3Met)y râBHHX pena h HdHXObhx npHTOKa. Ho^HHe mhothx, HapoHHTO BapaapcKHX npHTOKa, y/ia3e y AO/iHHy
CBOJe rviaBHe peKe bc/ihkhm o;iceuHMa npeKO kojhx ce
pe^Ha Boaa o6apa y 06/iHKy c/ianoBa h BOAonaâ.
Zlo^HHa rviaBHe peKe qecTO je npeBHiue ,ny6oKa npeMa
AOflHHaMa tt>eHHx npHTOKa, Koje cy npeMa fboj ocraê
Kao BHcehH.
CBe OBe nojaBe Mory ce o6jaaiHTH KOMn/iHKOBaHOM HCTOpHJOM H HeHOpMaJIHHM pa3BHheM nOJC/lHHHX
peHHHX CHCTeMa, H JOUJ HCZlOBOJbHO H3pat)eHHM peMHHM
;io/iHHaMa. HHJe^Ha Beha ManeAOHCKa pena He npeacrraB^>a je^Hy Mopapo/ioujKy ue^HHy. OHe ce hh y cbojoj
reoJioiUKOj npoiuôcTH HHcy pa3BHJa/ie Kao je;ma ue^HHa. ripBo6HTHO HHJe nocrojajia jeAHa peKa, Beh BHiue
peKa. oa kojhx ce CBaKa pa3Bnja.ia y noneTKy Kao
3ace6Ha ue^HHa h;ih Kao Aeo jeAHor Apyror pe<iHor c/iHBa. Kao TaKBa, CBaKa je HMa;ia cbojc HapoMHTe AOibe epo3HOHe 6a3e, Koje cy y BehHHH npeAcraBââ or/ieAa;ia pa3HHx, MaxoM H3o/iOBaHHx je3epa.
FIocTaHKOM ropiher AeJia ErejcKor Mopa Hacra/ia je
>KHB^>a epo3Hj'a, BehHHa peKa ynyheHa je y npaBuy
npeMa jyry, npeMa ErejcKOM Mopy. Mnore H30/iOBane
je3epcKe KOiviHHe kojc cy npeAcraB;ba;ie AOibe 6a3e
CTapHx peKa OTBopene cy, jbnxoBy BOAy h ueo c/:hb
Hac/ie^H/ia je h yByK/ia y ce HOBa peKa. HHAHBHAya^He ocodHHe thx npBoCHTiinx peKa HacieAH/>e cy h
HOBe peKe, h TaKO cy nocra/ie pa3/iHKe y hoboj peun.
Te
nojeAHHHx peKa nncy ce

CBe jxo cajia MOMe OAcrpaHHTH, hh yc/ieA Tora hjto
MHorH ;iOKa;iHH h pernoHa/iHH tcktohckh noKpeTH kojh
cy ce Bpinn/iH y Aounnja reo/ionjKa BpeMcua 3HaTHO
yMHO>KaBajy h nojawaBajy tc pa3/inKe. hbnMa ce liory
o6jacHHTH h OHaKe Be3e H3Metyy hckhx r/iaBunx peKa
h HdHxobhx npHTOKa, napoMHTO y c/iHBy BapAapa.
YcneA napowHTHx tcktohckhx noKpeia na yinhy h y
AOtbeM TOKy BapAapa, noc;ieAbH je TaKO jaKO yAy6no
CBOje Kopnio Ra cy ymha n.eroBHx npHTOKa Koje cy
pa3/iHKe
AO/wnaMa
HOBA CPBHJA
6mie y HHBoy BapâpcKe Ho^HHe, ocrajia bhcehH. Thm cy Hacra;iH oianoBH Koje Ha cbom ymhy
npaBe MHore npHTOKe Bapijapa. MHore npHTOKe Te)Ke
#a hhbo CBor KopHTa cnyde #o HHBoa Bap,napa; to
nonemaBatfee noHHe ce najnpe BpiiiHTH Ha caMOMe
ymhy, r\n,e npHTOKe Hajnpe h npHMe ocrajie oco6hhc
Bapjjapa; or BapâpeBa yuiha Te oco6hhc nocieneHO
ce no^Hy uihphth y3 kophto npHTOKe. Ha Taj HaqHH
h cânoBH noMepajy CBOj'e MecTO y3 kophto npHTOKe,
npH neMy MHorH, nyTyjyhH TaKO y3 kophto, 3a ayro
ocTaHy y uejiocTH a mho ce pa36wjy y 6e36poj MaHdHx c;ianoBa, kojh Mory 6hth y 6;ih3hhh, h OH#a o6pa3yjy CTeneHHnacTe cnanoBe, h;ih ce Mory Me^ycooHo
yâJbaBaTH, h OH#a MecTO jen.Hor câna zjo6HBaMo BHUie
paHHJe
crcanoBa y jeAHOJ penHoj aojihhh.
y peKaMa MaKeaoHHJe
h CTape Cp6HJe cpeiaMO

KaTKa,zi nojaBe Koje H3rêâjy HejionmHe h Heo6jauiHiHBe, h Koje 36or Tora hito cy peTKe, h uito ce He
noayiiapajy c npHJiHKaMa y HOpMa;iHHM pe^HHM #0^HHaMa, CMaTpajy ce Kao npHpo^HH Kypno3HTeTH. Kao
TaKBe CMaTpajy ce MHoro6poJHe uoeu/e Ha pa3Bol)HMa
nojejiHHHX mopckhx h peHHHx cjiHBOBa, MHoro6poJHe
^yiiHOBaTe OKyKe y penHHM #OJiHHaMa, cnyqajeBH 6u~
(fiypKdniijci, h MHore pyre reoMOp(f)o/ioinKe nojaBe.
y HopMa;iHHM npH^HKaMa, rviaBHa pa3Boi)a cy MaxoM
Be3aHa 3a nojcuHHe bhchhckc uejiHHe, jipme ce MaxoM
râBHor noBHJapua Kora n/iaHHHCKor BeHi;a h rpe6eHa.
H 3aTo cy peTKe h Heo6HMHe nojaBe Ka^ ce Hat)y pa3Bolâ y AO^HHaMa, Ha npece^JWHaMa h;ih y KOTJiHHaMa.
TaKa pa3Bol)a 30BeM0 uoeujaMa. y CTapoj Cp6HJH
HMaMO ABe noBHJe, Koje cy 0,0. Be;iHKor 3Hanaja 3a
cao6pahaj h npHpo^He Be3e H3Meijy cyce^HHx o6jiacth. To cy npeuieBCKa h KOCOBCKa noBnja, Ha pa3BO^y
H3Met)y Bapaapa h MopaBe; Ha npBOJ je BOÔAe^HHua
H3Mel)y MopaBnue h fIqHH>e, a Ha ^pyroj H3Mel)y HepoztHMKe, oahocho JleneHua, h Chthhuc 06e noBHJe
cy oa HapoHHTa 3Hanaja 3a cao6pahaj, jep ce npeKo
HjHx H3 je,zi,Hor penHor CHCTeMa npeâ3H y pyrH 6e3
BehHx TepeHCKHx TeniKoha. Ha noBHJaMa cy qecre nojaBe 6H(J)ypKauHJe to cy onyqajeBH y KoJHMa ce BOâ
;
55
GB/IHUH 3EM.JbHllJTA
peKe panBa y Ba KpaKa, on kojhx jeaaH Hê y

peKy jeflHor peMHor CHCTeMa, a apyrn y pe*y apyror
CHcreMa. FIoBHJe Hacrajy MaxoM Ha Taj HanHH ujto cy ce
caâiuFbe peKe pa3BHJa/ie h y Ha3a;i noMepa.ie Rym.
jeiiHe CTapHJe hh3hhckc jihhhjc hjih iuto cy o6e 3auj/ie
y ao/iHHy je^He iipyre peKe h noê/in/ie je Met)y co6om,
h/ih Ha noc/ieTKy Ha Taj HaMHH ujto je jenHa peKa noMepn/ia y Ha3aa csoje kophto, npeceK/ia npBodHTHo
pa3BOê h yin/ia y flo/iHHy /ipyre peKe.
rtocMaTpafeeM npaBua 0/iHHa noje.aHHHx MaKeilOHCKHx peKa, HapoHHTo BapiiapeBHx npHTOKa, onawa
ce na Te peKe MHHe Mecro ny^HOBaTa CKpeTaiba H3
CBor npBodHTHor TOKa, TaKO jya qecro y iipyroM
noMHy TehH y o6paTHOM npaBuy.
zie/iy CBora TOKa
y TaKHM npn/iHKaivia peKe npaBe OHe My^HOBaTe OKyKe
jeiiHe
y npaBuy cbojhx jio/iHHa, qnja ce nojaBa o6hmho He

nonyiiapa c bhchhckhm h TepeHCKHM npn/iHKaMa. y MaKeÔHHJH qecre cy peKe Koje y ropibeM ae/iy CBor
TOKa TCKy y MepniiHJaHCKOM npaBuy, ApwehH ce npaBua
TeKTOHCKHx hh3hhckhx /iHHnja. A.iH OHe oajeâHnyT
HanyiHTajy OBaj npaBan, CKpehy Ha AecHo h/ih Ha /ieBO,
Mecro noTnyHO nonpeMHO Ha npBo6nTHH npaBau, h TeKy
K/incypoM Koja cewe Be/iHKe n.iaHHHCKe ucthhc Ko,i
oBaKHx OKyKa HajqyjiHOBaTHJe je to luto ce bhah aa
ce npBo6nTHa HH3HHCKa .iHHHJa Rym. Koje je peKa TeK/ia
h Aa;be y hctom npaBuy h uoji hcthm npH/iHKaMa npoity>Kyje, na ce peKa nnaK He ap>kh Te /ihhhjc Beh CKpehe
na AecHO h/ih na /ieBO, na ce 3aceua y Be/iHKe ii/ianHHC.
Hero TaKO 4)hhh cy h ohh c/iyqajeBH r\ae peKa tohc
nope^ jciHe CTapHJe pe4He AO/inne h/ih nopea KaKiu
apyre hh3hhckc /ihhhjc, na ce nnaK ne ap>kh roTOBe
h H3paJ)ene ao/ihhc Beh ce 3aceua y n/iaHnne h MBpcTe
CTene, y KOJHMa je Mopa/ia Mnoro cnare noTpouiHTH
40K je H3iiy6H/ia CBOjy ycKy, KpmeBHTy h cryniheBHTy
flO/IHHy.
Cbc oho nojaBe npeAcraB/bajy Ba>KHe npoo.ie.Me y

pewnnx nojinna. Hckh or thx
npo6/ieMa noda/iH cy, 6ap y h3bcchoj Mepn, jacHH H3
AOca,aaujH>Hx namnx n:i.naran>a. Ocra/ie nojaBe 6nhe
Mopcj)o/iorHJH Aanaojibnx
jacnc h
c.TiietiH.x
HJ/iaran.a,
KOJHMa
he
Chtm
HOBA CPKHJA
56
KpaTKHM
upiaivia
npeacTaBjbeHH nociaHaKH pa3BHhe Haj-
Ba>KHHJHX peHHHX flOJIHHa.
HdopHJa pa3BHTKa peMHHX IJOJIHHa.

TparoBH HajeTapHJHX pe^HHX ffOJiHHa.
b)
a)
Ha ocHOBy
AaHaiuibHx mop4)ojioujkhx e;ieMeHaTa,

TeiUKO je CTBOpHTH CJIHKy
OHOJ IUiaCTHUH KaKBy je
HMaâ poôncKa Maca npe ho ujto je pa30peHa TeKtohckhm npouecHMa h npe ho ujto .cy y h>oj nocrajie
KOT/iHHe. Meijy AaHaiutkHM mop(J)o;ioujkhm o6/iHUHMa,
noTH^y H3 BpeMajio hx je 3a Koje ce MO>Ke pehH
MeHa npe nociaHKa KOTJWHa. Hhhh ce #a ce to MOHce
c BehoM cHrypHOuihy pehH je^HHO 3a HeKe bhcokc
npecejiyiHHe Koje ce jaBJbajy H3Met]y noje#HHHx koth 3a BHCOKe AOflHHCKe noÔBe H3Ha^ hckhx k;ihcypa. Hdhxobhm AeTajbHHM HcnHTHBaH>eM, npo(J)ecop
UbhjhH je yTBpAHO Aa Te npecezyiHHe h aojihhckh
noÔBH npe^CTaBJbajy KOMaije peHHHX OJiHHa Koje cy
er3HCTnpa;ie y BpeMeny npe o6pa30BaH>a KOTJiHHa, h
Koje cy npouecoM pacenan>a h CTBapaH.a KOTJiHHa 6njie
jiHHa,
HCKHAaHe h yHHuiTeHe. Th ocraTun o# ynponamheHHx

peMHHx AO^HHa Beoivia cy npocrpanH, y nonpenHOM
npoc})H^y noKa3yjy OHy CHMeTpHJy Kojy HMajy CBe HOpMajme pe^He jxo.wue, h Ha nocneTKy Ha hckhm je HatjeH
CTapH peMHH UJJbyHaK, a Ha HeKHM HaH3MeHHHHO peMHH
h je3epcKH THMe je HdHxobo nopewio HecyMtbHBO yTBpiêHO. 3a kotjihhc Koje cy nocra;ie paceAan>eM nope
3eMajbCKe y CBHMa je3HUHMa y3eT je HeMaHKH Ha3HB
zpa6en; OBe penHe AOJumz Koje cy crapnje or kotjiHHa Ha3BaHe cy upezpadencKUM doAunciMa, noiuTO cy
nocTOJa/ie npe ho luto cv nocTaê kotjihhc.
TparoBa or nperpa6eHCKHx #o/iHHa HMaMO Be
BpcTe. JeûH npeAcraBjbajy BHCOKe npeceA/iHHe H3Mel)y
noje^HHHx KOTviHHa, Koje ce jwxiy bhcoko H3Ha/i HajBHmer crania Erejcnor Je3epa. 3HaTaH #eo npece^HHa
Koje ce Ha;ia3e Ha BHCHHaMa mnaji 800 m. npezurraBJbajy ocTaTKe on riperpa6eHCKHX pewHHX o;iHHa. y h>hx,
oa Ka^ cy yHHuiTeHe, HHJe hhioa y;ia3H/ia peMHa hh
je3epcKa BOAa.
OHe
npeflcraBJbajy yivipTB/beHy AOJiHHCKy
ob/ihuh 3em;bhujta
57
napwaa, ocraTKe on HCKOMaâHHx penHHx nojiuna kojh

cy oda^H Ha cbom npBo6HTHOM no;io>Kajy, noK cy
.apyrn HdHxobh flercoBH
npouecoM paceaatba 6h ih
OTKHHyTH h 3a HeKO^HKe xn/ba;ie Meiapa cnyujTeHH y
ay6HHy, rê ce, nonpHBeHH bc;ihkhm MacaMa je3epCKor h peHHor uj.'byHKa, caja Kpnjy Ry6oKO Hcno.ii
KOT^HHa. Kao Ha\ny6jbH yceuH y n/iaHHHCKHM npenaraMa H3Mef]y nojexiHHHx KOiviHHa, ohh cy on yBeK
6h;ih on HaJBeher 3Hawaja 3a cao6pahaj, h 6h;ih cy
on Be^HKor yTHuaja Ha no/io>Kaj h pa3BHhe hckhx BapoujH. Kao HaJTHnHHHHJH npcucraBHHUH TaKHx nperpa6eHCKHx no;iHHa cy OBe npece;yiHHe: T>aBaT H3Metjy
nenaroHHJe h FIpecnaHCKor Je3epa, ripncaT H3Met)y
npn-iencKe kot.ihhc h BapâpcKHX >Kyna Ba6yHe, Xaca
h K/iene, FI/ieTBap H3Met)y npn/iencKe h pajaMKO-THKBeiuKe KOT^HHe, FIpeBTHC H3Meljy KopMaHCKe h npecnaHCKe KOiviHHe h 6yK0BCi;a npece^HHa H3Mefyy npecnaHCKe h oxpHACKe kotjihhc. 'foaBaTCKa npeceii/iHHa
npy>Ka ce on dnmrbCKe KOiviHHe no PecHa, cacraBJbeHa
HaJBHina OHa
je on Tp:i pa3He napinje, on kojhx je
koa ce/ia MarapeBa r\ne je iunpoKa 1 no iVi kh;ioMeTap. Mhhh ce na OHa npe/iCTaB.ba ocraTaK on \enue
AO/iHHe, Koja je nuj/ia aa/ieKO Ha jyr no jiaHaimbe
co/iyHCKe paBHHue. Kao AajbHH ibeHH TparoBH MOKâ
Mory ce CMaTpaTH npece#/iHHe KH3/iH-HepBenT, H3Mehy
6HT0^>CKe KOT/iHHe h OcTpoBCKor Je3epa h MyxapcMCKa ynonuua H3Me^y OcrpoBCKor Je3epa h Co/iyHCKe
PaBHHue. rioc/ic;ube nse 6n/ie cy aouuhjc npeTBopeHe
y je3epoy3HHe, na cy yjiapHOM cnaroM je3epcKHx Ta;iaca h Ta/ioweibeM je3epcKHX ce^HMeHaTa 6n/ie 3HaTH0
Aec})opMHcane HnaK ce ibhxob npBo6HTHH ao/ihhckh
KapaKTep 3HaTH0 owyBao. FI/ieTBap h Flpnca^ npeacraBâjy KOMane on npBo6HTHor Kopma FI/ieTBapcKe
h ripn/iencKe PeKe, Koje cy npe pa3Bnha BapiiapcKC
Ho/iHHe H3 ropHjHX o6;iacTH pena Ba6yHe H Pajua
TeK/ie y npaBuy aanaiiHbe npn.iencKe kot/ihhc. II>hxobh TparoBH BHê ce h aaHac Kao 3apeui h noaoBH
kojh ce y npo;iy>Keiby n/ieTBapcKe h npHcaacko np
cea/iHHe BHê Ha HBHua.\ia h no dpaHaMa npn.iencKe
KOT^Hfie. Obc peKe cy npona.ie y 6op6n c BapiapeBHM
ma
58
HOBA CPEHJA
npHTOKaivia
Ba6yHOM h
Koje cy noMepHJie CBoja

y H3BOpHy o6;iacT FIpHJiencKe
h ITneTBapcKe PeKe, OTe;ie hm MHoro6poJHe H3Bope h
Bo^y, h TaKO hx o6e3râBHJie, ycneji Hera cy erne 3aKp>KJbaBHê, cjihhho Kao iiito HOBeqj:^ Tejio nowHe
A2l Kp>KJbaBH H BeHe
Ka^ My Ce OflV3Me MHOrO KpBH.
O oboj HHTepecaHTHOJ 6op6H Koja ce y AH;iyBHyMy
pa3BHJia H3Met]y BapâpcKHX npHTOKa h ^pyrnx Makchohckhx peKa, o pa3HHM o6^HUHMa Te 6op6e h o
KopHTa y
Pajueivi,
na3aji, 3am;ie
HbeHHM râBHHM y3pouHMa, roBopHheMo onuiHpHHJe kza

6yêMo roBopHJiH o reojioiiiKOj* hctophjh Bapâpa.
ZIpyry rpyny nperpa6eHCKHx ^.o^HHa HHHe OHe
AO^HHe Koje cy 6une TaKO hhckc aa je npH HaJBHiiiHM
je3epCKHM CTatbHMa y jbhx yuina je3epcKa BO#a, h
Koje cy xyro BpeMeHa npe^CTaBJbaê je3epoy3HHc.
y neKHM o.a. H>HX, nouiTO ce ouchh/io je3epo, pa3BHJie
cy ce peKe, qnje nonum #aHac npeacraBJbajy a,y6oKe
h TecHe K;wcype, hhjh je o6/ikk h HanHH nocraHKa npeflCTaBJbao jeâH oji ohhx HayqHHX reorpa(J)CKHx npo6/ieMa
O KOJHMa Ce MHOrO AHCKyTOBaJIO,
KOJHMa nOCTOJH
MHoro TeopHj'a h xHnoie3a, h Koje cy o6jaiuft>eHe TeK
OBaKBHM .neTajLHHM CTyAHJaMa KaKBe je npo(j) U,BHJHh
BpiiiHO Ha BajiKaHCKOM rio^yocTpBy. JIho TaKBHx crapHx ao;iHHa caqyBaHO je y o6jiHKy Behnx h MatbHX
(
KOMaiia,
noKpHBeHHx HaH3MeHHMHHM c/iojeBHMa
je3ep-
CKor necKa h penHor mjbyHKa, kojh ce KOHcraTyjy bhcoko H3Ha,n Ana Ranauiibux KJincypa, h kojh npaheHH
h HcnHTHBaHH Ha BejiHKHM /jajbHHaivia, Aajy cjiHKy npodpaHHx, 6naro HarHyTHX pennnx AO^HHa. TaKBe penHe
;io;iHHe o6hhho cy mnpe h npocrpaHHJe on ohhx crapnx peqHHx .nojiHHa Koje HHcy HHKaKO 6n;ie npeTBopeHe y je3epoy3HHe. TaKBH cy KOMa^H crapnx o;iHHa
OHaj H3Ha,fl; ce;ia Kapaua;iapa, H3Metjy eopêjcKe h
e^HMejcKe KOT/iHHe, KHSJiH-UepBeHT, H3Meijy 6nTOJbCKe
KOiviHHe h OcTpoBCKor Je3epa, 3aTHM MyxapeMCKa h
BâôBCKO-BCueHCKa yôjhHHa.
OBany h oihhho KOMnjiHKOBaHy HCTOpnjy h n;iaCTHKy HMajy CBe Behe h ny6jhe KJincype BajiKaHCKor
flo^yocTpBa. Hdhxobo npBo6nTHO nopeK.no Moace 6hth
pa3^nqHT0, a/in je 3a ibHxoB AaHauitbH q6jihk HaJBa>K-
OBVIHUH 3EMJbHUlTA
59
HHJe to uito cy CBe y H3BecHa reo;iouiKa BpeMeHa npe;ihm BHiue napTHJe H3paêHe yâpatbe.M je3epcKHx Ta.iaca. TaKBor nopeK/ia
CKopo cy CBe Behe K;incype Ba/iKaHCKor Ilo/iyocTpBa,
H3Met]y kojhx cy Hajno3HaTHje h Haj6o/be HcnHTaHc:
Tbep/ian Ha UyHaBy, KanaHHMKa K/wcypa, rpnenvmna
K^Hcypa, 3aTHM MHoro6poJHe Maibe K/iHcype y ô'*hhh
MopaBe, Bapâpa, y peKa\ia Jy>KHe MaKeaoHHJe h TeCTaBJha.ie je3epoy34He, h niro cy
ca.iHJe.
FIoGTaHaK Bapnapa w H>eroBa pe4Hor eJiHBa.
BapâpcKa nonwrn cacTaB/bena je on HH3a npocrpaHHx KOT^HHa, Koje cy Mehyco6HO Be3aHe tcchhm h
Ay6oKHM K.iHcypaMa. Bapâp H3BHpe HcnoA LUape, y
ce;iy BpyTOKy, na npoTHMe Kpo3 KOTTiHHy flo/ior, Koja
je ziyra 45 no 50 KH.ioMeTapa. On H3Bopa no K^Hcype
ilepBeHa Teqe y npaBuy ca jyro3ana#a Ha ceBepoHCTOK.
y K^HcypH ZlepBeHy npaBH onupy OKyKy h caBHJa Hajnpe y npaBau ceBepo3anaA-jyroHCTOK, 3aTHM y npaBau
3ana^-HCT0K, h noHOBO y npaBau ceBepo3anan-jyrohctok, h ceBep-jyr. riocaeîba ABa npaBua, c Ma^HM
H3Mena\ia, ocTajy cse no iberoBa MopcKor yiuha K/ihcypa HepBeH, Koja pacTaB/ba no/iouiKy 03 CKonrKe
kotjihhc, yra je 17
20 km. On yuiha TpecKe no KaTânoBCKor B/iaTa Tene Kpo3CKoncKy KOT/iHHy. On yiuha
riMHfbe no BatUHHa Ce/i
Hacraje TaopcKa K/iHcypa,
ayra 4 no 5 km. On Be/ieujKe K.iHcype no JJeMnp KanHJe Bapjao npoTHMe .ipo3 KOT-iHHy THKBeui, Koja je
iiyra oko 50, a HJHpoKa oko 40 km. AeMHp KanHja je
HaJBeha BapâpcKa K^Hcypa. On aeMHp-KanHJCKe no
cTpyMHWKe >Ke/ie3HMUKe cranHue nyra je oko 19 km
a cacraBJba thkbcldky h i)CBl)e;iHJcKO-6oJMHJcKy kotKOT^Hna ujHpoKa je 5 no 6 km., a ny.THHy. nor
raMKa oko 30. H.Ma H3rvie/i npouiHpene pemie ,io;ihhl\ ll'/.i'iv
be h Co/iyncKe Kawiaibe Bapaap npoK.incypy, Koja jc iiyra 10 km.,
Unran>cKy
Kpo3
na3H
a AyooKa 100 no 150 m. Kao uito ce bhah, ao/iHHa BapcacTaii.i.cua je on neT bcahkhx KOT/iMna, hcto
;i.apa
to/ihkoi 6poja neliH.x K.iHcypa, h on .-tHaTiior 6poja
60
HOBA CPBHJA
MaH>Hx aojihhckhx npoiiiHpetfea KJiHcypacrnx yceKa, H3koj'hx Bapaap npaBH MHorodpoJHe OKyKe h 3aBOje.
3a HdcpHJy Bapaapa oa HaJBehe BaaoiocTH je
#a ce HdaKHe to jxa cy CBe OBe kotjihhc y pa3Ha
reoôuiKa BpeMeHa 6une HcnyHbeHe je3epHMa. Ta je3epa
cy npBo6HTHO npeAcraBJbajia êÔBe ErejcKor Je3epa.
ZlouHHJe cy OHa npeTBopeHa y caMocTa^He je3epcKe
6aceHe. J\a ;ih cy th 6aceHH 6hjih Meijyco6HO Be3aHH
je3epoy3HHaMa h OTOKaMa, Kao luto cy 6hjih MHorH
y Jy>KHOj MaKeOHHJH, H Hj'e AOBOJbHO jacHo. Bapaap
ce noneo pa3BHJaTH TeK nan je Be^HKO ErejcKO Je3epo
pa36HJeHO y Maite 6aceHe. Bh^jih cmo #a je y aaHauiHDeM aohdCm c/iHBy Bapâpa 6wio pa3BHJeHO Akchjcko Je3epo, Koje ce nocjie^Hbe hsabojhjio oh ocra;ihx ne;iOBa ErejcKor Je3epa, h Koje je 3axBaTa;io aaHamtbH Co^yHCKH 3a;iHB h Co;iyHCKy KaMnaBby h npyyuano ce Ha ceBep no .naHauiHber Ap^KaHCKor Je3epa h
UHraifcCKe KjiHcype. Hajâjbe ce ORpynajio y Be3H ca
dpHMOHCKHM (CTpyMHHKHM) H MHI\n,OHajCKHM (aJBaCHJICKO-6eiiiHHHHM) Je3epoM. Be3e cy npeKHHyTe ycjiea
Mehy
'
cnâniHDaBaHDa Boae y CBa TpH je3epa.
Kaa
je orjieâ/io
AKCHJCKor Je3epa cnaô ro #aHaiiiH>e Ha^MopcKe bhCHHe oa 250 m., oho je nonejio nocTajaTH caMOcrajiHO
je3epo. O CTapocTH AKCHJCKor Je3epa 3Ha ce to %a je
oho nocrajajio 3a BpeMe JieêHor #o6a h nocjie H>era.
HaK;ie nocTajaô je y BpeMe Kaâ ce npBH nyT jaBjbajy Ha 3eMa;bCKOj noBpuiHHH TparoBH jby^cKor >khBOTa. npBH jbyjiu jaBH/iH cy ce jjaKJie Ha 3eMJbH Kaaa
HHJe 6h;io BapâpcKe ilo^HHe OBane KaKBa je aaHac.
Akchj'cko Je3epo He 6h moivio oncTaTH #a je H>eroB
okbhp npeivia ErejcKOM Mopy 6ho OBano OTBopeH Kao
uito je OTBopeHa aHaniH>a CcnyHCKa KaMnaH>a npeMa
Co^yHCKOM 3a^HBy. JyatHH okbhp AKCHJCKor Je3epa,
kojh ce jaMaHHO h paHHJe noêo cnyuiTaTH, cnycTHO
ce noTnyHO h Hiime3ao nocne .zmJiyBHyivia. Kaa ce cny~
ctho Taj okbhp, Akchj'cko Je3epo je otckjio. Ajih ce
AOUHnje ErejcKO Mope h3;ihjio no #aHaujH>oj Co-JiyHCKOj
KaMnaHDH, na ce aoijHHJe nocreneHO noByKJio.
BapâpcKa ao;iHHa nonejia ce HHTeHCHBHHJe pa3BHjaTH Ten o;i KaKo je HUjqe3ô Akchjcko Je3epo h k&r
Oli/IHUH
31
M.bHHJTA
Mope
noByK.io H3 Co/iyHCKe KaMnan>e. y

KaMnattiH npH Kpajy an/iyBHyMa jaBHiue
ce MHorH pace^H, kojh ce Met)yco6Ho H3yKpinTauje.
BehH êo 3eM;bHiHTa kojh o6yxBaTHiue th pacean
ce ErejcKo
Co/iyHCKOJ
noTOHy.
PeKe Koje cy ce y/iHBa-ne y Akchjcko Je3epo h

Co;iyHCKH
3a^HB ErejcKor Mopa, noc/ie HcyniHBaiba
y
AKCHJCKor Je3epa h noB/iaHefoa Co.iyncKor 3a;iHBa, 6Hine
npoziyweHe. y TOMe npo.ay>KHBaH>y ohc noneine TehH
no AHy 6HBiuer je3epa. Hdhxobo kophto ce âKê Ha
Taj HawHH cnycTH.io. Mum ce cnycrnô h npo^y>KHô
kophto, peKa je Ao6H/ia Behn na^ h penHa Boâ je
none.ia 6p>Ke TehH h jane yceuaTH ce y .aoTaâiubbe
KOpHTO, KOJe je 04 HOBOr KOpHTa 6H^0 3HaTH0 BHine.
TaKBe npoMeHe H3BpujeHe cy h Ha Bap/iapy, kojh ce
y^HBao y Akchjcko Je3epo. Oh je noweo â y;iy6:i>yje
Hajnpe ce
CBOJy Ao;i.iHy h na je noMepa y na3a,n
cnycrHO y UHrafbCKoj K/incypn, na je CBOJe kophto
npo,ay>KHO Kpo3 6oJMHCKO-*)eBJ)e/iHJCKy KOT/iHHy. Thm
npo;iy>KHBaibeM y Ha3a^ yceKao ce y npewary Koja je
pacTaBJba/ia 6oJMHJcKo-t)0Bl)e.iHJCKy h THKBCiHKy kot^HHy, a thm yceuaiheM nocra/ia je Aanaunba JleMnp Kannja. Ha Taj HaqHH Bapâp je y ce iiphmho CBy Bo;iy
H3 THKBeiUKor je3epa h H3 ohhx peKa kojc cy ce y.inBa;ie y thkbcluko je3epo. Ha Taj namm Uapjap ce
3HaTH0 o6oraTHO boaom. Ii)eroBa CHara nnce je nocraja/ia Beha, h oh je pa3BH0 join Bciiy aqjizthoct. Jep
3Ha ce A2L ce jawmia h CHara joauc peKe wepn no mho>khhh n>ene Bo;ie h no 6p3HHH c kojom othmc. Ha
cviHHaH HawHH Bapaap je h aa/be na ccBep npoaywaBao CBOJe kophto, 3aceuao ce y npeuaie kojc cy noia/ia3H0 y nojecroja/ie H3Mel)y nojeAHnnx KOTAHHa,
h TaKO ce
ce,
npHMao
H.nxoBy
Bo;iy
je3epa,
AHHa
y
BHUje 6oraTHO boaom h cna>KHO ce.
Ohc peKe Koje cy ce pannje y/iHBa.ie y Cojmhjcko,
(
ckohcko h no/ioniho je3epo, nocra.ie cy

npHTOKe Bapaap3. k'a.i je Bapxiap nainao y to kot.ihhc.
oh je oueAHo\Bo^y h.hxobhx je3epa. Je3epcice npirroKe
cy no ie.ie Aa TeKy no ;iny crapor je3epa n one cy Ha
iiaA h noieJie cy Dpxce
Taj HawHH aoGn.ie crpMnjn
THKBeujKO,
<J2
HOBA CPliHJA
TehH, hcto OHaKO Kao iiito je h Bap#ap noneo 6p>Ke

TehH Ka^ ce HcyuiHJio Akchjcko Je3epo, h Kaâ ce
H>eroBa AOJiHHa cnycTHJia Ha aho AKCHJCKor Je3epa.
36or Tora cy ce h HOBe BapâpcKe npHTOKe noêjie
jaqe yceuaTH y AOTa.ua hi n>e cBOje kophto h CBe BHine
ra y Ha3a^ noMepaTH. CBe BapâpCKe npHTOKe y to
Ao6a uuajie cy OBy 3ajeAHHHKy h oniiiTy oco6HHy: CBe cy
ce y6oKO yceaaê y ROTajiamibe kophto h noMepaê
cy ce y Ha3a. HaponHTO je 6hjio Baaoio noMepatbe
y Ha3a^. Thm noMepaHbeM peKe cy 3aceua;ie y CBOjy
H3BopHy o6âcT h y CBOja pa3Botja. Oho je qecTo BpuieHO TaKO HHTeHCHBHo aa cy MHore peKe npoceKê
CBOja pa3B0â, npeuuie npeKO h>hx, h ymne'y o6;iacTH
h c^HBOBe Apyrnx peKa. OBê HMaMO AaKJie one hhTepecaHTHe npHMepe 6op6e H3Meljy nojeAHHHx peKa.
BapAapCKe npHTOKe, ycjiez BejiHKe 6p3HHe CBor TOKa
h c orpoMHOM kojihhhhom BOê, OAJiHKOBajie cy ce H
BehoM CHaroM, h OHe cy o^HOCHJie no6ejiy y 6op6n
ca peKaMa apyrnx cjiHBOBa. y toj 6op6n MHore peKe
H3 Apyrnx c^HBOBa nory6H;ie cy CBOje H3BopHe o6;iacth, h roptbe AeÔBe cbojhx zto^HHa, a OHe cy ocrajie
ca caMHM aohdHM cbojhm tokom. BapaapcKe npHTOKe
cy ce 3aceK/ie y n>HX0By o6;iacT, npeceKJie cy tt>HX0By
AOJMHy, h CBy Boay H3 hhxobhx H3B0pa OKpeHyjie y
CBOja KOpHTa. TaKBe peKe noje cy nczuiervie y toj
Be^nqaHCTBeHOj* 6op6H, HHcy H3ry6n;ie >khbot, a;iH cy
H3ry6H/ie CBOjy BO^y, H3ry6n;ie cy CBOjy KpB h CBOjy
cHary. H OHe H3ryie,aajy H3aHl)a;ie h AOTpajajie. O h>hxoboj HerAaujH>oj Be^nqHHH CBeAoqe H>HXOBa npocTpaHa
KopHTa, a H>HX0By calamity c/ia6ocT npeAcraBJbajy Ma;iH
BOâeHH Mâ3eBH kojh Teny Kpo3 Ta npocTpaHa KopHTa.
Cajviax ce bhah Aa 3a TaKO Ma;ie peKe He npHCTajy
TaKO npocTpaHa KopHTa. Te peKe Ha-anne Ha MpuiaBe
jbyê kojh ce o6yKy y oê/io KpynHHx Jhyjxu. hbnxoBa
v
cyA^HHa c^HHHa je cyA^HHH jby^CKor Te/ia Ka# My ce

o/iy3My Be^HKe ko^hhhhc KpBH. OHe BeHy h cnpeMajy
ce aa noTnyHO npecaxHy.
H3HeheMO HeKOJiHKO npHMepa o toj HHTepecaHthoj 6op6n Koja je BoijeHa Ha Heranitt>eM pa3Boljy
Koje je oj^Bajaô cjihb Bapâpa h zipyrnx MaKeAOHCKHx
1HUH 3BM/bHUlTA
pena. Th npHMepH HHTepecaHTHH cy h Kao npHpo^HH
KypH03HTeTH h Kao AOKy.MeHTH o TOMe KaKO je nocrao
âHaiuibH c.iHB Bapaapa. Hajnpe heMO npehH Ha TXpny
Peny h Ha HCTopnjy fbeHa pa3BHha. OHa h no ny>khhh CBOje ô^HHe h no Be^HMHHH cbot cnHBa npeacraB/ba HaJBehy npHTOKy Bapâpa. y H>eHOJ /io/ihhh
H3^Bajajy ce Ba e/ia, kojh ce Mefjy co6om cacrajy y
je^Hoj Bpô oiiiTpoj oKyuH. TopibH tok UpHe npezicraB/ba ô.iHHa Koja Hue Kpo3 >Ke.ie3HHK (JleMHp Xiicap) h BHmrbCKy KoT/iHHy ro CKOMHBHpcKe K.iHcype.
y TOMe jiQJiy UpHa PeKa Tewe MaxoM y npaBuy ca
ceBeoa Ha jyr. HpyrH neo npeflcraB/ba tbeHa ao;iHHa
on CKOMHBHpcKe K;iHcype no yiuha y Bapâp. y TOMe
pena cKopo y npaBuy ca jyra Ha ceBep;
/ie/iy TeMe
Tewe naKJie y npaBuy kojh je cynpoiaH npBOMe. 06a
ce nena Ha /iaKaT cacTajy h H^y y npaBUHMa kojh cy
riapa.ie.iHH. H Hajo6HHHHJH nocMaipan Kaa nocMaipa
obo MeH>att.e npaBna nociaBuhe nHTafoe: 3auuT0 peKa
TaKO oiHTpo Meiha npaBau, CBora toko. Ako Ha npn/io>KeHOJ KapTH npoMaipaMO nojimiy UpHe PeKe, BH/ieheMO h
OBy CTBap, Koja HCTOTaKO H3Meâ ny^HOBaTa h Heo6jaiujbHBa. OHa Tewe Kpo3 BnTO/bCKy KoT^HHy, HHj'e je jxho
bhcoko oko 600 m h 3aceua ce y n.iaHHHe Koje cy
BHCOKe npeKO 2000 if. Ta nojaBa HaM nocTaje join
My^HOBaTHJa Ka,T H3 KapTe bhahmo na je peKa HMa/ia
mhoto Hn>Ke 3eM/bHUJTe h MHoro noBOJbHHJe ycviOBe
na OTeqe npeMa Octpobckom Je3epy, y npaBuy crape
,
je3epoy3HHe
Kh3.th
JlcpsQur.
rioc/ie
Tora ao/ia3e h
MHorn Heo6HMHH o6/ihuh y ibenoj ao^hhh. y >Ke/ie3KM UJHHHKy H BHTOJbCKOJ KOT/IHHH HMa paBHO, HO
poKO aho, 6/iare CTpaHe h Tewe cnopo, a y MopnxoBy
H THKBCUJy, HapOMHTO >' IipBOM, HMa #y60KO H TeCHO
AHO, Tene 6p30, c MHoro 6p3aKa h BOônaâ OHa na
K/ie y ropjbCM TOKy HMa OHe ocoCnne Koje ce y apyniM
peKaMa BHiie MaxoM y aoibeM TOKy, a y AOH>eM TOKy
HMa ocoGhhc ropiber Tona.
CBe Te nojaBe Koje H3r/ie;iajy h hcoGhwho h peTKe,
pa3BHTKa. McnnHCTopnja ibCHa
MOH<e oGjacHHTH
yTBprêno
obo.
V neoreny je
Te
THBahbCM
je
HCTOpHJe
nocroja/ia jeAHa peKa Koja je TeK/ia Kpon >Ke.ie3HHK
1
HOBA CPHHJA
(>-!
h y^HBaâ ce
y bc/ihko riejiaroHHJCKO Je3epo. I"IoBe3H c EopêjcKHM Je3epoM npeno

npcce^HHe Kh3/ih ZtepBeH. Y hcto BpeMe nocroja/ia
je h Apyra peKa Koja je Huuia Kpo3 Mophxobo h yjiHBaâ ce y thkbcuiko je3epo. JlaHaiiiHDe CKOHHBHpcKe
lOmcype y to BpeMe imje 6yuio, Hero je Ty 6hjio pa3Boije H3Met]y THKBeuiKor h ncaaroHHJCKor je3epa. Oapa
AOJiHHa UpHe Pene y H>eHy AaHaumeM nejiy oa MopHxoBa ao ymha y BapAap 6nm je MHoro BHuia h
npocTpaHHJa oa tteHa AaHamtber KopHTa. TparoBH Tora
cxapHjer KopHTa Mory ce h AaHac upaTHTH Kpo3 MoPhxobo CBe ao CKOHHBHpCKe JOincype. npeA h>om hx
cacBHM HecTaje. 3HaMH Aa je crapa peKa AonHpa/ia
cne/ihbe je 6hjio y
caMo ao CKOHHBHpcKe K/iHcype. Kaâ je BapAap noMepatbeM CBOJe aojihhc y Ha3a# Aonpo ao y 6aceH
CTapor THKBeuiKor je3epa h Hcyiuno ra, AOJMHa mopHxoBCKe UpHe oajcahom Ao6H.na je Ha CBOMe AOTanauiiteM ymhy CTpMeHHT naA, h OHa ce nonejia y/mBaTH y AOJiHHy BapAapa, Koja je 6HJia MHoro AyoVba.
Ylonena je Tehii bcmikom 6p3HH0M, h 3aTO ce nonejia
jaKO yaydjbHBaTH. H OHa je nonc/ia 3aceuaTH ce y
CKOMHBHpcKo pasBotje, npeceK;ia ra je, yiu;ia je y 6ylTOJbCKy KOT/IHHy H HaHCna 6HTOJbCKO wjiyl neâroHHJCKO
Octpobckhm
Je3epoM, na je nocae aojihhom UpHe y BapAap noTnyHO otck/io. OHaj Aeo UpHe kojh je TeKao Kpo3
je3epo, Koje je Hajnpe H3ry6HJio Be3y c
>Ke;ie3HHK Hajnpe je jiyiao no o.ueêHoj 6HTOJbCKOj

kotjihhh, aok h H>era MopHXOBCKa Upna Hwje yxBaTHJia, yByKJia ra y CBOje kophto, h H>eroBy BOAy oa-
y BapAap. Eto TaKO je nocra;ia OHa OKyKa koa

CKOHHBHpa h CBe OHe ocrajie nojaBe Koje HaM H3r;ieAajy My^He h HcnorHMHe.
Be;ia
C/iHHHa 6op6a BOAHJia ce H Ha pa3Boi)y Koje pacraBJba c/ihbobc FlpHêncKe h FI/ieTBapcKe Pene c je^ne
dpaHe, h Ba6yHe h Pajua c Apyre CTpaHe. npn;iencKa
h FI/ieTBapcKa PeKa yjiHBajy ce y BHTO/bCKOJ Kotvihhh
y UpHy, Ba6yHa ce nenocpeAHO y^HBa y BapAap, a
Pajau y UpHy PeKy, h to y ibeHy AOtt>eM TOKy. KaA
jiociviaTpaMO AO/iHHe npBHX ABejy peKa, bhahmo OBe
ibHxoBe oco6HHe aojihhc cy npocTpaHe, a peKe He:
Ob/IHUH 3tfAJbWB
H^yhH
3HaTHe.
y3 AOAHHy,
mh y
H>eHoj H3BopHOj 06-
He Haâ3HMo ohhx iavBopeHHx, oKpyrviacTHx

y ropn>eM cbom
yAy6:betba Koja Ha.iHwc na Me.ieHKe
TOKy pene H3rvieAajy Kao OAceqeHe, jep cy y 3a.ietjy
OTBopeHe. KaA ce HAe y3 AO.iHHy Pajua y npaBuy
npe\ia IT/ieTBapcKoj ripeceA.iHHH, bhah ce, y bhchhh oa
250 m. H3Ha^ AaHatutber penHor KopHTa, jenHO CTapHJe
peHHO KopHTO, Koje je HarHyTO cynpoTHO npaBuy y
KOMe naâ AOAHHa Pajua. KaA npetjeMo n.ieTBapcK-y
FlpeceAAHHy, to crapo kophto BHAeheMO h no HBHuaMa
npHêncKe Kot.thhc. Obac je to kophto HarHyTO y
npaBuy y KOMe tchc ITieTBapcKa PeKa. ITo obomc
cTapoM KopHTy bhah ce na je y paHnja BpeMeHa TeKAa
je^Ha peKa H3 ropibe o6;iacTH Pajua y npaBuy ITpH/iencKe Kotahhc Haj6o/be onyBan KOMaA Te AO/inne
H3 OBora ce bhah
je caMa FI/ieTBapcKa ripeceA^HHa.
Aa pa3BoJje H3Met)y HêTBapcKe PeKe h Pajua nnje
6h/io yBeK Ha IT/ieTBapcKoj npeceA^HHH Beh MHoro
To pa3Bol)C
Aa.be y ropn>eM Ae/iy AaHaimber Pajua
4
km.
hctomhhjc
je
6h/io
HaJMaite
oa AaHamiber.
ao 5
H3 OBora CBera bhah ce na je IT/ieTBapcKa PeKa H3ry6H/ia cboj ropn>H tok, :iaTO ujto joj ra je npeoTeo Pajau.
OiHHHe cy nojaBe KOHcraTOBaHe h na pa3Bolj>
H3Met)y IlpHJiencKe PeKe h 5a6yHe, oahocho n>ene
npHTOKe H3BopiHTHue. Ha n>HX0By pa3Boljy naJBa>KHHJy TaHKy npeAcraB. ba npecen inna IlpncaA. OBaj HMa
H',r:ieA uinpoKa ceA-ia Koje ce OiWHKyje iipocrpanHM
paBHHM AHOM KOJC MHHH VTHCaK HCKC CTape AOAHHC
y npaBuy npeMa M3BopiHTHun cnyujTa ce crpMO, h
paujw.naibeH je mhohim Ao/iniiaMa, a npeMa ITpH/ienuH
HMa Bp/10 6nar Harn6. y npaBuy npeMa Ilpn/ieny uchoa
CaMOBH/iua ao MapKOiwx Ky.ia o.iaro ce cnyujTa hoa
kojh ce ona>Ka c o6e cTpane npn/iencKe Pckc h kojh
H3MeAa Kao Ra npeAcraB.-ba npoAynvCibe paBHora npiicaacKor Ana. Taj no;i je mccthmhuc nocyT
peMHHM o6^yuHMa, Meliy KOJHMa iipea/ialjyjy oC/iymi
KBapua. iMecTHMHue iia/ia3ii ce na tom noAy chbh hook,
;iacTH
tBOpilC
MSBOpHC
UOBA
[Vlllc 06.1 a cth
K-JC
HI
'ICTCI!
1
1
BHJA
HOfiA CPBrfJA
MoapHKacra h >KyhKacTa rjiHHa, a npeno obhx je nocyT

penHH uiJbyHaK c MacoM odjiyTana oa KBapua h oa
KpHcra;iacTHX iuKpHJbaua. OBaj MaTepHJaji HecyMH>HBO
Ka3yje na je obhm nojiou TeKJia BOAa, h as oh npeflcraBJba odaTaK Heraaiunber penHor KopHTa.
H 3a FIpHJienKy h 3a FljieTBapCKy PeKy KapaKTePhcthhho je to lino hh jeAHa hh apyra HeMajy H3BopHe
neêHKe, ujto hm pa3Boi]e npeflcraBJbajy npeceflJiHHe,
h ujto o6e npcucraBjbajy Majie penHue c He3HaTHHM
BOAeHHM Mâ3eBHMa, a Teny y npodpaHOM KOpHTy.
BeJiHHHHa KopHTa He o^roBapa HHKaKO bcjihhhhh peKe,
Tano fla nocTaje HecyMH>HBO na namwibe peKe HHcy
Monie HanpaBHTH obo kophto. OHe cy ra HanpaBHJie
OHâ Ka^ cy pacnojiarajie BehoM MacoM Boae h Ka^
cy HMajie CBOje H3BopHe qeêHKe. ripeivia onHcaHHM
npH^HKaMa HecyMifcHBO je aa je h npHJienKa HeKaâ
6HJia MHoro flyaca, h #a je tfeeHa AOJiHHa 6HJia CKpaheHa 36or Tora ujto je H3BOpiuTHU.a yiujia y H>eH
ropftH tok, OTeJia joj H3BOpHy qeêHKy, npeceKJia je
h CKpaTHJia. HecyMH>HBO jia H3BopiUTHua pacno;ia>Ke
BehoM CHaroM h &a HMa >KHBJby epo3HJy ho FIpHJienKa.
To je floiijjio ycê^ Tora ujto y o6;iacTH Ba6yHe naâ
BHUje aTMoaf>epcKHX Tajiora (KHuie h CHera) ho y o6;iacth FIpHênKe; 3aTHM ujto je Ba6yHa 6;iH>Ke aojihhh
Bapâpa, h ujto ce HenocpeAHO y;iHBa y Bap/jap. BhAejiH cmo Beh Kano je jane yy6,jbHBatt>e ôjiHHe BapAapa npeHeceHO h Ha H>eroBe npHTOKe, Koje cy 36or
Tora noêjie joiu jaê ayncTH CBOje kophto h npo^y>KaBaTH ra y Ha3a,n.
Hcth TaKH npouecH H3BpujeHH cy Ha pa3BOt^y
MervieiUHHue h UpHe Pene. npHTOKe MervieiUHHue, Koje
ce 30By KynaBHua h Bht^h, npo6H;ie cy oporpa(})CKo
6h;io MopHxoBCKo-MerjieHCKHx njiaHHHa, 3aiujie cy y
Mophxobo, h 3aceKJie ce Meijy H3BopHe Kpane FIopCKe
h MaêMCKe Pene, Koje ce yjiHBajy y UpHy. FIoujto
h MerêujHHua h UpHa npunaflajy criHBy Bapâpa,
TeiuKo je 6h;io o6jacHHTH Kano ce cjihb MeivieiHHHue
Morao pa3BHTH Ha ujTeTy cjiHBa UpHe PeKe. 3aca;i,a
ce Ta nojaBa o6jaLuu>aBa OBaKO. MerjieHCKa crpaHa
MOpHxoBCKO-MerêHCKor pa3Bot)a 6/iH>Ka je Co/ryHCKOj
OB^HUH
3EM;t>HllJTA
6)
cy, Kao iiito cmo BHae/iH, y HajHoH3BpiueHa Be/iHKa crponoiiiTaBpeMe

reo/iouiKO
BHJe
Batha 3eMJbHiiiTa. Y;ia3ehH Henocpe^Ho y Co^yHCKy
Ka.\inaiby, MeryieujHHua je npe oceTH/ia noc;ie;ume Tora
CTponoiuTaBaHDa ho UpHa, Koja ce y;iHBa y Bap/iap,
h Koja je Te nocaeAHue Morvia occthth tck nocpeAHO
KaMnaibH, y kojoj
npeKO Bapâpa.
Ha oiHMHe npouece Mowe ce cbccth h cKpeiaibe

FoêMe Pene kor KyMaHOBa, rue ona ounpoM onyKOM
CKpehe npeMa jyroHCTOKy, h Tene K/iHcypoM y rimiihy.
Crapo kophto Fo/ieMe kojhm je OHa TeK/ia npeMa BapAapy bhah ce h caâ. To je oho npocrpaHO kophto
kojhm Tene n^HTKa h TpoMa Xaua/iapcna Pena, Koja
HeMa hh to/ihko CHare na Ro\)e ro Bapaapa, Beh ce
H3ry6n y 6/iaTHiHTHMa CKoncKe Kot^hhc JXojmua XaijaâpcKe PeKe npencTaB/ba noYbu rqo HeKaâume Fo.ne.Me PeKe naR ce OBa y/niBa/ia Henocpeano y Bap/iap
h Kaa HHJe npe/nrraB/ba/ia npHTOKy FlMHibe.
H3 oBora CBera bhah ce Ra je ctchb Bapâpa
npBo6HTHO 6ho mhoto y>KH. FberoBa 3ana^Ha rpaHHua
mnjia je or MopHxoBa na ceBepHy o6;iacT Pajua h
BaCyHe, oaaK/ie ce npywa.ia Aa;be npeMa ro/ieiiiHHUH
h AaHaujn>oj aojihhh TpecKe. O^Te npBo6HTHe boaoiie/iHHue iberoB ce c/ihb npeMa 3ana;iy npoujHpHO Ha
npocTopnjy Koja je innpoKa neaeceT no meceT kh/ioMeiapa, a yra iKa ABanyTa to/ihko. Kao nocrcenHua
i
OBora Lunpetba Bap/iapcKor c/iHBa 6h/io je to hjto cy

ce HcyiHH/ia cBa OHa je3epa y Koja je Bapâp yuiao
Ma h je^HOM cbojom npHTOKOM. Ocia;ia cy aaK/ie caMO
OHa je3epa ro kojhx nnje Ronpna HHJe^Ha npHTOKa
BapAapa.
r)
HocTaHaK hckhx bhujhx noBpwH.
Ko na>K^>HBo MHTa nauja Hanaraiba, mowc ona3hth Ra cmo ro ca/ia naJBchy na>KH>y o6paha.in na
n.iacTHMKe nojaBe kojc ce Ha.ia3e Ha BHcnuaMa Hcnoa
MO Mdapa anco.iyTHe bhchhc. Caâ Tpe6a xia bhahmo
KaKO H3r/ieaajy omh achobh 3CM.iHLUTa kojh ce na.i,i ie
na BHCHHUMa H3Ha/i 800 m. hhohhc. Ko C DCO
68
HOBA CPBHJA
Kojy MaKeAOHCKy nâHHHy Morao je ona3HTH obo.

KaA ce H3 Hene KcnviHHe hjih peHHe nomine nen>eMO
Ha nâHHHy, HêMO y3 n;iaHHHCKe na^HHe Koje cy o6hhho
dpMeHHTe. 3a Te nanHHe bhacjih cmo a& OHe Mory
6hth H3JiOMJbeHe y BHuie noAOBa, a Mory HMaTH h 06jihk BHCOKor creHOBHTor 3H#a. Kajx ce nonHeMO Ha
n;iaHHHy, mh bhahmo â n;iaHHHa y cbojhm HaJBHmHM
napTHJaMa HMa o6;ihk npocTpaHe 3apaBHH Koja ce
npyao no hckojihro KHJiOMeTapa, h Koja je o6pac/ia cohhom TpaBOM, a peê luyMOM. y BehHHH MaKeaohckhx h CTapocp6Hj'aHCKHx njiaHHHa HeMa ohhx Rythx h ycKHx n.iaHHHCKHx noBHJapau,a h rpe6eHa Koje
Haâ3HMO Ha BpXOBHMa CKOpO CBHJy ^HHapCKHX H
rpqKO-ap6aHCKHx njiaHHHa. FIoBHJapuH h HaJBHine napTHJe ManeÔHCKHx nâHHHa H3ryie#ajy Kao na cy 03ro
3apy6jbeHe h HceneHe. OHe ce cacroje or 3apaBJbeHHx
noBpuiH Koje cy Ha CBe CTpaHe oTBOpeHe, npeMa ojih>khm KOT^HHaMa o6hhho H3epeHe, hjih cy CBeAeHe y
o6^HKy BeoMa 6;iarHx Ky6eTa. H3 thx 6j\2lto CBe#eHHX, He3HaTHO H3epeHHX h TajiacacTHX 3apaBHH AHJKy
ce Matta y3BHiuett>a Koja cbojom bhchhom MHoro He
o^cKany on CBOJe 6JiH>Ke oko^hhc Te bhcokc noBpuiH
y MHoroMe Hajmne Ha OHe je3epcKe 3apaBHH Koje ce
jaBJbajy Ha BHCHHaMa HcnoA 800 m. Ann Ha obhm noBpuiHHaMa HeMa je3epcKor mjbyHKa h necKa, hhth Kakbhx npyrnx je3epcKHx TparoBa. FIocTaBJbeHO je nHTafce: KaKO cy nocrajie Te noBpuiH?
Hivia je#Ha HayqHa TeopHJa Koja o6janiH>aBa noCTaHaK obhx noBpuiH. Flo toj TeopHJH OBe noBpuiH
cy nocTaê AejcrBOM TeKyhnx BO.ua. MoptyoJiouiKu pan
TeKyhHx BOâ BpuiH ce oBaKO. 3aMHC/iHMO jeAHy Mnany
nâHHHy Koja HacTaje HadnpatbeM h H3AH3aHDeM nope
3eMa^>CKe HJIH MOMCHTa/lHHM H3flHBaH>eM By^KaHCKHX
Maca. KaA Ha Ty n;ianHHy naAHe npBa KHma, CHer hjih
neji, jeâH ijeo i^HXOBe BO,u,e ynnhe ce y 3eMJby, a
ApyrH he noTehH hh3 njiaHHHCKe na^HHe. Bo.ua ujto
OTHqe hh3 nâHHHy H3iiy6Hhe Ha nâHHHH Ma;ie >KJie6oBe. kojh he nocrajaTH CBe,ay6jbH h CBe iiiHpH ujto
BHiue ce cnyiHTaMO HH3 njiaHHHy. Bjih>kh >K/ie6oBH
he ce cKynjbaTH, cacrajaTH h CBOjy sojiy chochth y
iia
09
0E/1HUH 3EM^>HUJTA
he 6hth CBHMa 3aje^HH iKH h Behu

jbhx. Ha noAHO>KJy n.ianHHe th lie
ojx CBanor or
xu\e6oBn npeAcraBâTH Beh Ma;ie noTOKe h peKe.
Kaaa HAeMo y3 Te noTOKe, BH/ieheMO &a ce CBe BHiue
paMBajy h jxa CBe MaibH 6HBajy. Ako /iy>Ke BpeMeHa
nocMaTpaMO jeaaH o# ohhx Maibnx >K.ie6oBa, mh heMO
BH/ieTH na ce ohh noc.ie CBaKe KHine CBe BHiue yay6jbyjy, h na tbHxoBa BOâ o^hoch CBe BHiue 3e\i;be h
KaMetba. TeKyha BOâ Ha Taj HannH pa3HOCH h pa30paBa n/iaHHHy. y TOMe je noMawy h MHorH zipyrn
npnpoAHH (J)aKTopH. Ha npBOM Meciy npoMeHe y ton/iOTH Ba3Ayxa. yaieix jawer 3arpeBaH>a no jiany h x/ia\)en>a no hoHh, cieHa Mopa #a npoinnpyje h na CTe>Ke
CBOj'y 3anpeMHHy. riouiTO CTeHe HHcy e.nacTH<iHe, OHe ce
npHTOMecTe3aFby pacnpcKaBajy upacnaaajy. HayhH hh3
n/iaHHHy, peKa ce cpeia ca mhofhm KOMa/jHMa oji pacnaAHyTHx cieHa. Te>Ke KOMaê peKa H3 noneTKa o6h/ia3H, a Maibe hoch co6om. Obh OAJiOMJbeHH
KOMazw
creHa c.iy>Ke peuH Kao HeKa Bpcia TBpôr opyija kojhm 0Ha ny6e h npomnpyje CBOje kophto. TeKyhn y
o6;iHKy 6p3aKa h cnanoBa, peMHa BOâ yiiapa obhm
creHaMa o CBOje aho h pa3opaBa ra. 06H/ia3ehH oko
ohhx KpynHHJHx cTena, peKa o/jhoch oko h>hx chthhjc
KaMefee h OHy 3QMJhy Ha kojoj OHe ;ie>Ke. OHa nocreneHo Hcnâwe caB CHaj MaTepnja/i c kojhm cy tc crene
noAynpie. Kan hm TaKO OAHece ocHOBy, ciene ry6e
paBHOTe>Ky h cave ce CKOTpjbajy HH3a CTpaHy. LLIto
Ay>Ke Tpaje OBaj pa/i pewne boac ona he cbojc kopHTO cbc BHUje yiiy6jbHBaTH, a n/iaHHHy CBe BHiue pa3hochth. MHore cy nâHHHe na OBaj Hawnn 6n;ie peMhom boaom pa3HeceHe H cKopo cpaBn>eHe c(mopckom
je/iaH m.ne6
kojh
nOBpU-IHHOM.
A/ih &a 6h peMHa BOAa noTiiyno pa3ne.ia ruiaHHuy,
noTpe6HO je ja ce n/iaHHHa hhk3ko ne H3AH>Ke n ;ia
ce mopcko oryieaa/io HHKaKO hc cnyima. MopCKO orvieAa/io h na/iMopcKa Bucmia nânHHeJnpeACTaB.hajy
naJBa>KHHJe t3mkc y cBaKOJ peMHOj ao/ihhh. >Khbot
CBaKe peKe nownibe na Bpxy n.iamiHe a cnpwaBa
na o6a^H MopcKoj. UIto ce bhujc n.iannn
\iM\an MopcKor or/iena/ia, thm jc h naa pc nior kop
i
HOBA CPEHJA
70
kophto HMa BehH naa h iiito je

y online crpMHj'e, penHa BOâ 6pa<e Tene h jane yâpa
y jjho h 6oKOBe CBora KopHTa, h OHa he ra CBe BHiue
npoiiJHpHBaTH h y,ny6jbHBaTH. Ako Tano peKa pa^H Ha
BehH,
uito penHO
croTHHe xHJba.ua ro^HHa, OHa he ycneTH #a pa3Hece

ue/iy nâHHHy. Ajih CBe ujto peKa BHiue pa30paBa h
pa3HOCH n/iaHHHy, naa n>eHa KopHTa nociaje CBe MatbH,
peKa CBe cnopnje Tene h 6HBa CBe Matbe cnocodHa aa
ce yceua h jya hoch cboj MaiepHJaji. Ako Majio ijeTajbHHJe nocMaTpaMO pa^ je^He TaKe CTape peKe, mh heMO
BHêTH obo. y ft>eHy AOibeM TOKy .no/iHHa joj je npoCTpaHa, n/iHTKa h 3acyTa iujbyHKOM h necKOM. PeKa no
fooj TpoMO Hê, h cboj tok HecTO noiviepa ca^ Ha AecHy
ca# Ha ;ieBy cxpaHy. OHaj MaTepnjaji ujto ra je CHe/ia
c nâHHHe ocraBJba y cbom KopHTy. Oko Te peKe
AecHO h JieBO iiinpH ce Tajiacacra 3apaBaH, y kojoj ce
He BHê pa3Boija H3Meijy nojeAHHHx peKa, h y kojoj
cy Beha y3BHineHDa Bp/io peTKa. y ropHbeM TOKy peKa
je joui 6p3a, #o;iHHa joj je join Aocra #y6oKa, peKa
joui pa30paBa h pa3HOCH nâHHHy, ajw Taj MaTepnjaji
He MO)Ke #a CHece no Ha MopcKy o6a;iy. Ako Ay>Ke
BpeMeHa noTpaje OBaKO CTaH>e, peKa y cbom ôiêM
TOKy 3acyhe CBOJy ao/iHHy MaTepnja/iOM, noMepahe ce
CBe npeMa 6oKOBHMa, h TaKO he ypaBHHTH Be/iHKe npoCTopHje. y TaKHM c/iynajeBHMa o6hhho ce pa36nje y
BHiue pyKaBa, oTOKa h MeaHêpa, kojh nocTeneHO H3ry6e Be3y c peKOM, h on h>hx nocrajy ycrajajie BOê
H/IH MpTBHUe.
C je^He njiaHHHe o6hhho Tene BHiue peKa; OHe
je CBe pa3opaBajy, h CBe CKyna cTBapajy OBaKe 3apaBHH KaO UJTO Cy BpXOBH MaKeÔHCKHX IIJiaHHHa.
obo nHTau>e. H3 nocanaum>er

bhah ce n& TaKe 3apaBHH nocTajy Ha MajiHM
BHCHHaMa, Ha KOJHMa peKa HMa BeoMa 6nar na#, h
r#e je ft>eH pa^ He3HaTaH. Ako je TaKO, onzja KaKO cy
nocTa/ie OBe noBpujH Ha noBHJapuHMa MaKeaoHCKHx
n/iaHHHa kojh ce Ha;ia3e Ha nâHHHaMa on npeKO 2000 m.
HaztMopcKe BHCHHe? Ha to nHTaH>e aajeMO OBaj 0,0x0Bop. H3 reo/ioiuKe npoin/iocTH 3HaMO #a cy njiaHHHe
poôncKe Mace y apxaHKy na6paHe, h %a cy Kpo3 ueo
A;ih cajja HacTaje
H3/iarait>a
OBJIHUH 3EM;bHlllTA
71
MHpoBaê. To BpeMe, Koje h3hoch Ha mh.iHOHe ro^HHa, 6mo je aoBOJbHO #a pa3opH h pa3Hece
n/iaHHHe po;xoncKor cHcreMa. H\ia 3HaKOBa no KOJHMa
ce MO>Ke 3aK^.yHHTH na cy n;iaHHHe poaoncKor chcreMa npH Kpajy 6uj\e CKopo cacBHM pa3opeHe h pa3-
Me3030HK
flOTajxamibHM n;iaHHHaMa flecn/io ce ctihhho

Kao Ka^ ce cacene jejiHO /ipBO h or tbera ocraHy caMO
TpynHHe. H on nâHHHa po;ioncKor CHcreMa ocra/ie cy
HeceHe.
6me
caMe TpynHHe.
A^h y o/inroueHy
Haciaje noHOBO H3,nH3a*be n;iaHHHa poôncKor CHcreMa. H3rêâ na cy MHore n;iaHHHe 3a BpeMe Tora H3,/iH3aHDa h;ih HeuJTO aouHHJe
HcnpcKaê, na cy ce jeziHe napinje H3AHrvie y BHCHHy,
a apyre cy ce CTponoiuiaê y ny6nuy. Te H3AHrHyTe
napTHJe on HeKa/iaiHPbHx nâHHHCKHX TpynHHa canyBaHe cy y ohhm bhcokhm noBpuiHMa Koje ce jaB.hajy
Ha BHCHHaMa H3Ha 800 m. h Ha noBHJapuHMa n;iaHHHa. Hhhh ce na cy noBpiun npH TOMe H3H3a*by BeHhhom caMO H3epeHe h/ih 6/iaro cBeaeHe. Je^HHO je
noBpiH Koja je 6H/ia Ha Mecry AaHaimber O/iHMna cBeAeHa y o6;iHKy o6;ior Ky6eTa. Thm Kpy>KHHM H3#H3aibeM nocTao je ziaHaLmbH O/iHMn. ilpyre n/iaHHHe, Kao
na npHMep Jy>KHH KapnaTH h nâHHHe CeBeponcTOHHe
Cp6nje, 6H/ie cy Ha6paHe, h Her/iaiiiiba noBpm jiodHâ
Taâcacr o6/ihk.
Eto Ha Taj nawHH ce o6jaLmbaBa nocraHaK bhcokhx noBpujH h 3apaBibeHHx nâHHHCKHx noBHJapaua y
nâHHHaMa Mane/iOHHJe h CTape Cp6nje. Tpe6a AOiiaTH
na cy npe OBaKO o6jamibaBaHe h OHe noBpuin ujto ce
Ha;ia3e ncnojx 800 m. bhchhc T. UBHJHhy je nom/io 3a
pyKOM na AOKa>Ke na Te nospiuH npe^CTaB.bajy una
CTapHx je3epa. 3a noBpniH H3HaA Te bhchhc hhjc ce
join Morvio to AOKa3aTH. Topibe o6janjihLMi>e kojc cmo
najiu 3a nocraHaK bhcokhx noBpiun no i ie;io je Aa cmue
036H.bHe CBOJC npOTHBHHKe, Ha npBOM MCCTy r. LJ,BHJHtia,
kojh lie ra Momna aoneK/ie h h3mchhth. Ta nayqna
no^CMHKa MOH<e 6hth HHTepecanTHa caMO .ta crpyqibaKe. \\ 36or Tora y n,y OBfle hcIicmo y/ia3Hin
je
MUtJA ^roirlJA
HI
Bejikwa je3epa y Hoboj Cp6njn.

FbHXOBe (|)H3HHKe 0C06HHC
BejiHKa je3epa Ha BajiKaHCKOM FloJiyocTpBy cy

orpaHHMeHa Ha Jyn<Hy MaKeaoHHJy. Ha npocTopy oa
OxpH^CKor h IlpecnaHCKor je3epa Ha 3ana,ny, no Cepeaa
Ha HcroKy, h ao 41 ceBepHe reorpa(})CKe uiHpHHe, nopeljaHO je 19 je3epa. CBa Ta je3epa Ha;ia3e ce y Bejihkhm KOT^HHaMa Koje cy BehHHOM nocrajie cajiOMOM.
BehH #eo thx je3epa npeAcraBjba npeocTaTKe on, HerâuiHDer ErejcKor Je3epa, a caMO 3a jeâH aeo h>hx
(Oxphacko, IlpecnaHCKO h Majio) HHJe ce Morvio noKa3aTH aa cy 6n;ia y Be3H c ErejcKHM Je3epoM. MeJiyTHM HecyMH.HBo je &a cy h OHa nocrojajia y BpeMe
ErejcKora Je3epa.
3HaqajaH je pacnopea h reorpa^CKH no;iO)Kaj
obhx je3epa. HaJBeha eBponcKa je3epa, He panyHajyhH
y to jiHMaHe h #pyra npH6pe>KHa MopcKa je3epa, Mory
ce noAe.iHTH Ha TpH rpyne, h to na ceBepHa eBponcKa
:
je3epa, ajinnjcKa je3epa, h jyjKHO-MaKeÔHCKa je3epa.

HajawiepcKO h B;iaTHO Je3epo y MafjapcKOJ H3y3HMajy ce Kao njiHTKa je3epa. IlpBa rpyna je3epa Be3aHa
je 3a o6;iacT Be;iHKe ceBepHe rviauHjainije. fIo3HaTO je
Aa je y AHJiyBHyiviy 6H;ia noA jicaom CBa CeBepHa Ebpona, or JieêHor nojia #o JWHHje Koja ujie or JIohAOHa Ha ,ape3eH, JIaBOB, KnjeB h Ka3aH. Ta rjiauHjauHJa ocTaBHJia je H3a cede orpoMHe Mace creHa,
râuHJaJiHor uubyHKa, necKa h Myjba kojh AaHac noKpHBajy 3eMJbHHJTe CeBepHe EBpone. fIoniTO je pacronjbeH nen Be^HKe ceBepue rjiauHj'auHJe, H3a h>hx cy
ocrajia h Be^HKa ceBepnoeBponcKa je3epa. Zlpyra 06jizct bcahkhx eBponcKHX je3epa cy je3epa y A^nHMa h
ibHXOBOj Haj6^H>Koj okojihhh. OHa cy Be3aHa 3a o6;iacT
HerAauiH>Hx h AaHannbHX a/mnjCKHx nieqepa.
AncTpaxyjyhH Majia nâHHHCKa, peHHa h o6a;iCKa,
norviaBHTO ^HMaHCKa je3epa, MO)Ke ce pehH #a or noMeHyTe jy>KHe rpaHHue ceBepHe rviainijauHje no ErejCKor Mopa HeMa TaKO bckhkhx je3epa Kao luto cy
Hama jy>KHO-MaKeflOHCKa je3epa.
3a no;io>Kaj obhx je3epa Ba>KHO je to uito cy
OEJIHU.H 3EMJbHHJTA
73
nopeijaHa oko ceBepHor 6aceHa ErejcKor Mopa. Kan

npeêMO Ha Ma;ioa3HJcKy CTpaHy ErejcKor Je3epa, HaHâ3HMO Ha Apyry rpyny je3epa, h to Ma/ioa3Hj'cKa
je3epa. OHa c MaKeÔHCKHM je3epHMa MHHe nojac je3epa Koja cy pacnopefjeHa oko ErejcKor Mopa, h 3aio
HDHxoBy 06/iacr Kao ue/iHHy MO>KeMO Ha3BaTH ezejcuo.u
je3epCKOM 30H0M.
FIpoTHBHo a^nHJCKHM h ceBepHoeBponcKHM je3epHMa, jy>KHO MaKeÔHCKa je3epa HHcy Be3aHa 3a nojaBy
rviewepa Ha Ba;iKaHCKOM no/iyocipBy, h h>hxob nocraHaK
HeMa Be3e ca rviauHia;iHOM enoxoM. hbnxoBe onune
oco6HHe cy OBe: npBO, Ha/ia3e ce y o6;iacTH HaJM/iahHx.
TeKTOHCKHx ca/iOMa Ha Ba^naHCKOM rio/iyocrpBy pyr0
3ay3HMajy nna HajivuiatjHx MaKeaoHCKHx KoiviHHa, h
Tpehe, Be/iHKa BehHHa h>hx, Kao ujto cmo BHae/iH, npe^craBâjy ocraTKe on Heniaujhber ErejcKor Je3epa, Koje
je nodojaô Ha HeraamtbeM bcihkom erejcKOM KonHy, h
Koje ce pacnpocrHpaô y6oKO no y o6;iacT naHamiber
ErejcKor Mopa h no Ma;ie A3Hje.
Haj'3HaTHHJe on cbhx je Oxphacko Je3epo, Kojr
je Be/iHKO oko 270, km.- y6oKO 286 m., h Koje je HajAy6^>e on cbhx. HajBehe je FIpecnaHCKO Je3epo, kojc
je bcuhko oko 288km. j a ziy6oKO 54 m. Iberon je jieo
h Ma/io Je3epo, Koje je Be/iHKO 52 km-. Jy>KHO on obhx
je Ma/iHMKO Je3epo, a MHoro na:uc na jyry KocrypcKO
Je3epo. Ha HCTOKy on FIpecnaHCKor Je3epa HMa y npocrpaHoj kotjihhh Koja ce 30Be CapHtjo/i MeTHpn je3epa:
OcrpoBCKo, FleTpcKO, 3a3cpun h BpanHHHKO. Mcl]y
jbHMa Octpobcko je HajBehe h Hajay6/be
oho je Be/ihko oko 77 km.-, a ay6oKO 62 m. V Co/iyncKOj KaifnaihH h na n>eny hctomhom o6ojiy HMa ueTHpH Mana
h n/iHha je3epa
PIa3apcKO, P>KaH h.th ApMan h Ty3J\y\)on. Mctomho on Co/iyHa y kotjihhh Jla3ra8e HMa
ABa je3epa: AJBacn;icKO h Bclijhmko. Ha nocicTKy, y
AOjpaHCKO-cepecKoj kot/ihhh HMa Tpn jeaepa JlojpanCKO, ByTKOBCKO H TaXHHCKO.
Mh lieMO OBae npHKa3aTH <|nun iKe oco6hhc
caMO ohhx Be^HKHx je3epa Koja cy npuna/ia Hoboj
Cp6HJH.
;
HOBA CPBHJA
74
1.
OxpnucKo Je3epo.
Haâ3H ce y npocrpaHOj h #y6oKoj kotjihhh

npaBua ceBep-jyr Koja ce cnycTH/ia H3Metjy Vammmxe
Ha HCTOKy h MoKpaitcKe nâHHHe Ha 3ana,a.y. ZfyranKo
30 KM, UIHpOKO 13 KM, B&TIHKO 270 KM.'2 JiyCOKO
286 m, a Ha;ia3H ce Ha bhchhh on 690 m. Flo Be/iHhhhh 3ay3HMa apyro, a no ay6HHH npBO MecTO Metjy
cBHMa 6a;iKaHCKHM je3epHMa. y ue-noj EBponn HMa caMO
ce/iaM je3epa Koja cy AyoVba on OxpH^CKor. HaJBeha
y;iy6jbeHba Ha;ia3e ce y neHTpa/iHOM #e/iy iberoBa #Ha.
HaJBehy KOJiHHHHy BO/je ôdHBa H3 H3Bopa kojh H36njajy hjih Ha je3epCKHM o6a/iaMa hjih Ha H>eroBy #Hy.
Bo#a thx H3Bopa je 6ncTpa h y CBa roAHintba BpeMeHa HMa cra;iHy TeMnepaTypy 0,3, 9 no 11C. DiaBHH
H3Bopn H36njajy Ha jy^KHOj* h hcto^hoj o6ajw. Ha jy>Khoj o6a;iH Hajjaqn H3BOpH cy CBeTOHayMCKH, uynieMHldkh h Bpejia no^ KpacnoM. npBH je Hajjaqn h H36auyje oko 40 Ky6HHHHx MeTapa Boae y ceKyH^H. rionBo;jHe H3BOpe MeuiTaHH 30By BHpqeTa". 0a h>hx cy
Haj3HaTHHJa KajiHinKO Bnpne, JIhhcko Bnpne h OryaeHMe. Bona OxpnacKor Je3epa aaKJie je noTnyHO H3BOpCKa. Bpe/ia Ha tberoBoj jy>KHOj o6a;iH noraqy HecyMfeHBO H3 no,n3eMHe OTOKe IlpecnaHCKor Je3epa, Koje
je bhcoko 906 m., h yâjbeHO 16 KH/ioMeTapa. OBa
HHda H3BOpcKa BOAa je on BejiHKor 3Hanaja 3a cj)H3HHKe ocoOHHe je3epcKe BO#e. 36or n>e je, y rviaBHOM,
Boâ Oxpn^CKor Je3epa Heo6H mo 6ncTpa h npoBHAHa.
3a BpeMe MHpHHx h Be^pHx âHa Ta npoBHflHOCT H3hoch on; 12*4 m. no 16*2 m. OxpH^CKO Je3epo ce HHKaa
He Mp3He, a TeMnepaTypa H>eroBe Boê HHKaA He naâ
4C. Ta TeMnepaTypa y CBHMa ,ny6HHaMa
HcnoA
je
HHJe Hera.
Ha
,ziy6HHaMa
no 30 MeTapa, TeMnepaTypa Boae
onajia cnopo h paBHOMepHo, CBera 3a 2.4 C hjih

008C 3a jeaaH MeTap. On 30 no 35 m. TeMnepaTypa
je onajia 3a 1.6C, a on 35 no 40 m. ca 2.4C. on. 40
no 45 3a 2C, on 45 no 50 3a 0.8C, a H3Meijy 50 h
60 m. 3a 2-2 C. IlpeMa TOMe TeMnepaTypa je Hajjane
ona;ia na ny6nmi on 35 no 45 m., h to 3a 4-4C hjih
je
OB/IHUH 3EMJhHim\
75
3a 0.44C 3a 1 m. Ay6HHe. riocne Tora HMa Ma/iHX npeKHjxa Ha y6HHaMa or 45 ro 50 m., a or 50 ro 60

noHOBO ce jaB.ha 6p>Ke onaânje, h to 3a 022 U C Ha
1
m. Or 60 ro 70 m. onaâ 3a 1 m. 0*1 4C, a or 70 m.
ro 220 m. TeMnepaTypa ona,na Ha CBaKH Mdap ,ay6HHe
3a 0018 U C. Kzr OBe npoMeHe y TeMnepaTypn npoMaTpaMO y npaBuy 0,503^0 npeMa rope, ohrsl bhahmo
r?l TeMnepaTypa Harvio CKawe Ha rbz Mecra, h to Haj-
npe Ha Ay6HHaMa or 60 ro 50 m., a 3aTHM Ha ny6nor 45 ro 35 m. FlpBO noBehaBaHe TeMnepaType

3BaheMO cnope^HH h;ih RO\hn TeMnepaTypHH ckok, a
apyro ropHoH h/ih rviaBHH TeMnepaTypHH ckok. Boay
KOJy AOdHBa H3 OHHX MHOro6pOJHHX H3BOpa, OxpHACKO
Je3epo ry6n Ha rbz HanHHa, h to HcnapaBaiteM h otokom koa CTpyre, Koja ce 30Be CrpyuiKH h/ih UpHH
ZIpnM. Hcno/i BapoiiJH CTpyre UpHH UpHM noAHBJba
h pa36nja ce y 6e36poj pyKaBaua h KpaKOBa, or kojhxce jeâH HaTpar Bpaha je3epy h ry6n ce y M/iaKBaMa.
HMa 3HaKOBa H3 kojhx ce Moace ca cnrypHomhy
3aK^>yMHTH r& je orvieaa/io OxpH^CKor Je3epa y jeBeTHaecroM BeKy 3HaTHO napacio, iijto ce bhah no mhoro6poj*HHM KaîipMHcaHHM nyTeBHMa, jbHBaMa h KyhaMa
Koje ce 3ana>Kajy y nojeAHHHM npH6pe>KHHM napTHjaMa, 3aTHM uito cbh MeuiTaHH TBpê aa je je3epcKO
or/ieaa/io 3a noc/iea^nx ceâMAeceT ro ocaMêceT rojHHa nopac/10 3a 5 m. To aoHeK/ie noTBpljyje h no3HaTH
iincau XaH, kojh
1863 6aBHO y OxpH/iy.
ce vor.
/laK.ie h OBne HMaMO CKopo ciHMHy nojaBy Koja je
ona>KeHa h Ha CKaâpcKOM B/iaTy. HaJBepoBaTHHje je
R2. cy Te npoMeHe je3epcKor or/ie:ia/ia npoy3poKOBane
k/ihmckhm npoMenaMa. A/ih he CBaKaKO 6hth OAyTnuaja
h OHe nojaBe Koje HaBOAH h Kocra FpynqeBHli UpHMOBa OTOKa kor CTpyre 3acnna ce necKOM kojh Hahocc bhcokh Ta/iacn jy>KHora BCTpa. J\o npe 80 ro 90
roaHHa Mopa/ia cy TpH ce/ia r2l MHcre to yinhe. Ohh
cy ra mhcth/ih Ha Taj na hub ihto cy CBaKe jeceHH HaroHH/w 6hbo/ic ;ia npol)y ZIphmom or CTpyre ro ila6oBJaHCKe K/mcypc. To jc MHinlieibe caaa npecra/io, 11
3aT0 je hhbo je3epa Hapacrao.
yc/ie;i pa3/niMnnr
Be&poeu u KpeHUube
Haivia
HOBA CPBHJA
76
3arpeBaft>a BejiHKe je3epCKe npodopHJe h bhcokhx,

MaxoM ro/iHx nâHHHa ihto je OKpyacaBajy, HMa Ha
Oxphackom Je3epy ahcbhhx BeipoBa kojh cy hctobcthh

ca GKHHHHM npHMopcKHM BeTpoBHMa. y TaKBe cnaâjy
8eulepmiK,,HohniiK hjih zopniiK, a BepOBaTHO h cuipMeu,.
Ohh totobo csaKora AaHa AyBajy, H3y3eBiiiH 3HMCKe
Taâ ce CMeHbyjy ceBep, jyr,
Meceue, Kaâ hx HeMa
h ApyrH Matte BHiue JiOKa;iHH BeTpOBH TaKBH cy: Enemhhk, kojh ^yBa H3 nomine CaTecKe, MpaniHHK, kojh
^yBa or norpawa npeMa ceBepy, rpaAHiHHHK, on
Tpnenue npeMa 3anaAy h GronaH, on fleurraHa npeMa
JlHHy. JleTH ce obh BeTpOBH peTKO jaBJbajy, h ja caM
3a ABe HefleJbe 6aBJbeHba Ha Oxphackom Je3epy noCMaTpao caM ceBep h BeJiHKy 6paH" Kojy oh nuyne.
Je^HHO BeTepHHK AyBa CBaKH AaH h y CBHMa AejiOBHMa je3epa ynpaBO, to HHJe BeTap, jep HeMa npaBua,
Beh nnpKaHDe h frapjinjatfee Koje ce pacnpocTHpe c je3epa y pa3HHM npaBUHMa npeMa o6a;iaMa. rtoHHibe
yBeK H3yTpa Ha 2 no 3 caxaTa nocê paân>a cymja,
a npecraje no npaBH;iy oko 3 c. no n., ajiH KauiTO h
AOUHnje, TeK oko cyHneBa 3a;iacKa. y 3 c. no n. hjih
AOUHHJe, H>era cmchh crpMeu, kojh MeHba npaBue, ajiH
BehHHOM AOJia3H ca 3. h J. 3., Kauiro h ca rajiHHHue.
;
Kao
us.
je
CTpMeu noêiaK HohHHKa
ojanajm Hoh-
hhk, npoH3BeAeH BehHM pa3JiHKaMa y 3arpeBan>y je3epcKe noBpiHHHe h okojihhx njiaHHHa. Jep crpMen, je
jann Bdap kojh peAOBHO AH>Ke BHCOKy 6paH"; nocne
cyHneBa 3a/iacKa 3Apy>KH ce c npaBHM hoHkhkom, kojh
npecTaje TeK npeA cyHqeBO paijaHbe. KaA HeMa CTpMua,
BeTepHHK ce oceha ao npeA cyHqeB 3a;ia3aK, a Taâ

ra CMeHH o6nqaH hoHhhk hjih ropHHK, BeTap kojh npeKO
uejie Hohn y cbhm npaBUHMa c njiaHHHa npeMa je3epy
AyBa, CBe ao npeA cyHneBO patjaHbe. Jann je on BeTepHHKa a 3HaTHO cjia6HJH on crpMua, kojh Harjio naâ
c njiaHHHa Ha je3epcKy noBpujHHy, yâpa o Hy h bpth
je, AH>KyhH TaKO onncaHe HCKHAaHe Tajiace.
Oil cyHneBa paljafoa na no 7 hjih 8 c. np. n. OBJiaAa
npn^HKOM cMCHe HohHHKa h BeTepHHKa noTnyHa th-
Oxphackom je3epy.
CTpMeU H OCTaJIH BeTpOBH, OCHM^HeBHHX, AH>Ky
LUHHa Ha
OEAHUH 3EMJbHLUTA
Be/iHKe Taâce,
Ta/iacc
oa
1*5 m.
nocMaTpau
ja caM hcko/ihko nyia
bhchhc, kojh no 10 ao 12 caxaia
xyne h /ioivie ce no je3epy. A/ih nopeA OBora Ta/iaCHor KpeTatba, BOAa OxpHACKor Je3epa noKa3yje KpeTaibe jouj oa ABe Bpcie
1.
flocae jaKHx BeTpoBa npnMehyjy ce dpyje
h Kpeiaibe je3epcKe BOAe cynpoxHo oHOMe npaBuy
y KOMe je Bdap AyBao. HapoMHTo ce ona>Kajy ABa
KpcTafba, je^no c J. Ha C, oa Cb. Hayivia Ka OxpHAy, Koje HacTyna nomaBHTO noc/ie ceBepHor Beipa,
h TaKBO KpeTatbe OxpnfjaHH 30By CeBepoBa BoAa;
noc/ie jy>KHHx BeipoBa Kpehe ce BOAa ca C. na J.
y3^y>KHOM ocobhhom OxpHACKor Je3epa, h to KpeTaFbe 30By JyroBa BoAa. 06a KpeTaiba Mory ce jabhth h noc;ie crpMua, kojh Meâ npaBue. OHa ce
Haj6o;be pacno3Hajy nopeA pTOBa h oko no/iyocrpBa
TpeneTa, 3aTHM no /ie/iyjaiby h no no/ieraiby npH6pe>Khhx 6n/baKa, Tpcja h pece. KaA je CeBepoBa BoAa,
waMUH ce h caMH Kpehy oa Cb. HayMa npeMa OxpHAy,
a o6pHyTO KaA je JyroBa BoAa. Pn6apcKe Mpe>Ke 6hBajy Aa.icKO Ha C. h;ih Ha J. OAneceHe. H3rvieAa AaK.ie
jacHO na ce CeBepHa BoAa jaB/ba yc/ieA Tora hjto
ce AyBaibCM BeTpa ca ceBepa HaroMH/ia BOAa y jcahom
Kpajy je3epa, h, KaA Bdap npecraHe, ona noHHibc
npeMa C. OTHuaTH
hcto BpeAH y npoTHBHOM cmhcny 3a JyroBy Boay.
2. KaiiiTO ce jaB/ba h ApyKunje Kpeiaibe je3epCKe boac, Koje ce Mopa HAenTHi|)HKOBaTH ca no
thm seiches, ripn noTnyHO r/iaTKOj noBpiHHHH h.ih npn
cnaGHM BCTpoBHMa, hhbo je3epa Hapacre, 3am\i naanc
Ha ceBepnoj h/ih jy>KHOj o6a/iH OBa^Hor je3epa. Ph6apn Ka>KyAa MaMUH kojh cy y3 oxpHACKe h/ih cb. iiayMCKe o6a/ie, ocrany Taâ na cyBy. /la.i.e H3i.ic;i,:
ce TaKBe AOHHBeâuHJe je3epcKe noBpujHHe npo.MaTpajy h na 3ana,THH.\i h na hctomhhm o6a/iaMa
OHA.e tac je oho 3HaTHe HJupHHe; n3i.icAa Aa ce onaKBe nonpeMHc AenHBe/iawije napo inro onaxcajy koa ce/ia
Ileiirrana. KaA nacraHy 6o:i>e h Ky/iTypunje npwiHKe
;
oko OxpHACKor Je3epa, na \btuy he ce seictu s MohH

oco6hto Aera/i>no npoyianaTH, 36or ona/Mocm 6acciia h iberoBe nâcTHKe. Miije HOUbyqeHO ;ia ce na
HOBA CPBHJA
78
KOHdaTyje h ruiHMa h ocena, jep ce MO>Kfla

oho ocrajaH>e naMaua Ha cyBy MOe c HHMa AOBecTH
y Be3y."
noc;ie #aHa ca khujom
JXneene upoMene 6oja.
h dypoM, Hacra;io je 6hjio Jieno BpeMe. CyHue nene,
Ba3,nyx je Ha,n je3epoM npoBHâH, a Ha o6a;iaMa TpenepH japa hah naj, kojh o6aBHJa h HaJBHiue BpxoBe
oko je3epa Ja6;iaHHuy, Kpcrau h Ta^nqHuy. Oko naMaua je Tonâ nâBa je3epcKa Boâ, y Kojy bha â:ieKO npo^Hpe, a r#e oh H3.ua, Hadajy OHe n;iaBeHKacTO-upHKacTe Ay^HHe o,zi kojhx ce crpaxa HeMa, jep
je je3epo thxo h rviaTKe noBpuiHHe; y H>HMa HMa, Ka>Ky
pH6apH, TaKo MHoro pn6e Kao apooHor necna. Or je3epa ce pa3BHj'a npeMa nâHHHaMa 6nar BeTpnh, kojh
ynpaBO He ayBa, Beh nnpKa, hap^nja, h 30Be ce BeTepHHK, HajnpHj'aTHHJH BeTap OxpHACKor Je3epa; to
ynpaBO HHJe BeTap, jep HeMa npaBua, Beh Hac ca cbhx
cTpaHa o6^HBa cbok Ba3#yx kojh HMa MHpnc Boae;
36or H>era je Oxpn^cKO Je3epo nem HapOHHTO npHjaTHO. Oh He npaBH Tajiace, Beh (J)HHe Ha6ope Ha je3epcK0j noBpujHHH kojh H3i7ieflajy Kao ohh Ha npnTHCHyTOM n;iHLuy, h th cy HadopnhH TaKo o6;ih Kao
aa je je3epcKa noBpuiHHa yjbeM noKpHBeHa; Herê ce
rpyne Hadopa npeceuajy h HMajy njiaH Mpence.
Taâ jienoTy je3epCKy yBehaBajy h Jiene je3epcKe nTHue, oco6hto 6e;iH JiadeflH, kojh bh:oko HaA je3epOM jieTe, jaTa or KpeuMaHa, kojh hhcko JieTe h
cBaKH Mac na/jajy no je3epy, h upHH hopobh, kojh ce
no je3epy nbypajy. Oho Ta,n;a h jby^HMa o>khbh, oco6hto aKO je na3apHH nan y OxpH^y, CTpy3H h florpaauy Kao nocyTH no je3epy, HCKpcHy MHoro6poJHH
qaMUH, kojh y aa/bHHH Kao upHe nere H3i7ie,najy,
6/iH>Ke Kao HenpaBH/me MpKe Mace, jxok ce jeflBa He
pa3a3Hajy Kao hslmixu nyHH Jbyjw, aceHa h 3eMJbopa,nHHMKHX npOH3BOAa H3 OKOJIHHX CCfla.
Ajih He6o h Bas^yx HHcy hh jeâH caT noTnyHO
HCTH H3Ha^ OBe BCrtHKe H fly60Ke KOTJIHHe Koja je
onKOJbeHa Bp/io bhcokhm nâHHHaMa. Mac cnja jy>KHO
cyHue, MHJa ce 3paKa HenpnjaTHO oceha; 3aTHM Hanno
HacTynn x;iaflOBHHa or o6;iaKa KOJHMa ce He6o Ha/i
HbeMy
79
HUH 3EMJbHUITA
je3epoM npeBywe, joiu Heiuhe npHJaTHa no-rcyx/ia/ioBHHa

or MecTHx npaMeHacrHx o6;iaKa Kpo3 Koje ce cymje
oceha. FIoTnyHe thiuhhc HMa Ha Oxphackom Je3epy
caMo paHO H3jyipa, npn^HKOM CMeHe BeipoBa: HohHHKa
h BeiepHHKa. A Kaz* y3My xyjaTH jaKH BeTpoBH h He6o
ce npeByqe upHHM rycTHM o6/ian.HMa, 6oja Bojxe OxpuRCKor Je3epa nociaje y ue^HHH upHKacra, a no ifeoj
ujyMe, ujyuiTe h npcnajy bhcokh Ta/iacn Kao upHe
Mace, HHJa ce caMo TeMeHa 3a6e/iacajy, KaR ce cKpuie.
Taj HenpnjaTHH yTHcaK yBehaBa ce npea Bene h Hohy,
Kaâ jc3epo ncnyâBa MOBeKa je30M h cTpaxo.M.
Boja BOê je y npn6pe>KHHM n;iHfiHM napTHJaMa
cy6/iaKycTpHCKor
to je
o^ceKa oTBopeHo-3e;ieHa
ro
He({)pHTCKO 3e/ienH/io, oco6hto npHJaTHO KaR je rho
noKpHBeHO 6h/io B/iaKHacrHM 6h;io ry6acrHM h ê6e/ihm a/iraMa. Or cy6;iaKycTpHCKor o^ceKa npeMa HajBeBehHM ny6nHaMa BORa nocraje CBe BHiiie n/iaBa
npnx h ;ienHx Rana Boja OxpnncKor Je3epa HMa Ton;io
n/iaBeTHH;io, Koje je npnjaTHHJe o^ He6ecKor n/iaBeTHHâ to je OTBopeHO, npo3paMHO h npoBH^HO n.ianpnjaTBeTHHJio, a/iH HnaK 3aracHTHJe or ne6ecKor
:
<
HHJe
je
on o6HHHor MopcKor
n/iaBeTHH/ia,
Koje je
OBaj HopMa/ian pacnopeA 6oja y

Oxphackom Je3epy Mecro ce Men>a. KaR cyHue Kpo3
06/iaKe npocHJaBa, 6oja Bone nocTaje 3aTBopeno-n/iaBa,
c Ma/io 3e.rceHH.ia
Kan cyHue 3aê 3a rycre odâne,
y iby ce Meina CBe BHUje upnora nan nantjy nepjacTH
h npaMenacTH o6/iau,H, kojh no je3epy ocraB/bajy ceHKe
Kao /incnaTe rpane, 6oja borq nocTaje3e/ieHKacTO-n/iaBa,
AaK/ie bhujc 3e/ieHKacra \te obhx h npeTxoxmux npoMaTpaiba bhah ce jxa 6oja BOAe 3aBHcn: 1, ORRy6nHQ,
jep je naJBeha pa3.iHKa H3Mel)y npnGpoKnnx napTHJa
ao cyC/iaKycrpucKor OAceKa, r\ae je 6oja 3e/iena ca
pa3HHM HHancaMa, h ay6oKor je3epa, trq npeB.iatjyje
2", or cacraBa una, jep aKO je
n/iaBa 6oja
obo nojx
a/iraMa, Bona je <e/iena; aKO je or crena, on/ia
6ojy boac MCLua npupo^Ha 6oja cTene; a aKO je on
lu.i.yHKa.onaa je Bona OTBopeHO 3e/iena ca inapaMa, htr.,
3, or naoG/iaqeHocTH, jep, y Ma kojoj ntpTHJH, je3epo
HMa npyKMHJy 6ojy npn BeapoM h cynwanoM BpeMtMiy.
joiu 3aTBopeHHje.
80
a
HOBA CPBHJA
ApyK4Hjy Ka^ nau^y o6;iauH,
UlTeHOCTH.
y 3 caTa
noc/ie
no^He
h;ih
npH upHOJ HaTy-
noHHe flyBaTH
peÔBaH
BeTap OxpH^CKor Je3epa, crpMeu, kojh H3 noqeTKa

caMO hap^HJa, a^H MOKe #a ojaqa, h Taâ xyJH ayBa
HCKH,naHO, Ha MaxoBe, h 6p30 y36ypKa ue;io je3epo.
Or H>era nocTajy KpaTKH, oirnpH Taâcn, qnja ce TeMeHa Kprue h kojh ce KaTKa^ npecKaqy. Ka^ 3aê
cyHue, CMeHH ra hohhhk, Majio jaqn or BeTepHHKa h;ih
AHeBHora BeTpa; oh nnpKa h hapjinja ca okojihhx
nâHHHa ca cbhx CTpaHa npeivia je3epy, HeMa .naKJie
Kao h BeTepHHK je^Hor o^peijeHor npaBua. 06hhho
noHHe hapjinjaTH Ha 2 #o 3 caTa nocjie cynqeBa 3a;iacKa,
na ce oceha uejiy Hoh h H3j'yTpa, #ok ce cyHije He
po^H. Ta.ua ra CMeHH BerepHHK, ajiH He ojiuax, jep
H3Met]y hdHx HMa KaTKa/i, Kpaha, KaTKa^ pyxta. nay3a
noMeHyie THiHHHe. Ann je caMO oko Cb. HayMa Ha
jy>KHOj o6a;iH je3epa HohHHK peÔBaH Bdap, kojh noqHHDe h npecTaje, Kao ihto je rope H3Jio>KeHO. I~Io
ocTa^HM êÔBHMa je3epa oh ce no npaBHJiy jaBH TeK
:
npefl 30py."
2.
npecnaHCKo
FlpecnaHCKO Je3epo.
Je3epo 3ay3HMa jy>KHH aeo npoKOTJiHHe Koja ce Ha;ia3H H3Metjy nepHcrepa h

Hepe^CKe nâHHHe Ha HCTOKy, h Ta^nqnue, Cyxe Tope
h Top6eua Ha 3ana^y. CeBepHH &eo Te kotjihhc npeflcraBJba aho HcyuieHor je3epa; to je pecaHCKa paBHHua. MHoro Behn ago kot^hhc je no# ripecnaHckhm h Ma;iHM Je3epoM. H Ma;io Je3epo, Kao h pecaHCKa paBHHua, npeACTaB.7ba;iH cy AejiOBe ripecnaHCKor Je3epa. Majio Je3epo je TeK y HaJHOBHj'e BpeMe
o^BojeHo THMe uito cy je3epCKH BajiOBH Hadaua^H
orpoMHe Mace necKa Ha MecTy rue cy o6a je3epa 6njia
Be3aHa. HapoA pa3;iHKyje Tojieiviy Flpecny, no;* kojom
pa3yMe ceBepHH #eo npecnaHCKe KoT/iHHe, no jiHHHj'e
Koja 6h Be3HBa;ia Kohcko, octpbo Be/iHKH rpafl h riePobckh 3a^HB. OAaBê npeMa jyry HacTajy Majia npecna h Ma;io Je3epo.
dpaHe
OBflHUH 3EM;bMUTA
81
flpecnaHCKor Je3epa Ha;ia3H ce Ha bh

chhh or 906 m. Be/iHKO je 288 km. 2 a ay6oKO 52 m.
Oho je âKê HaJBHuie h HaJBehe or cbhx bc/ihkhx
Orviezia;io
6a^KaHCKHx je3epa.
y ceBepnoM Reny flpecne h y3 nepHdepcKe o6a/ie,
6oja je3epcKe BOê je >KyhKacTa h upHKacro-wyhKacTa,
rok je Rym. 3anaAHHX KpeHfoaqKnx o6a;ia flpecne
OTBopeHO-3e:ieHa, hc^phtckh 3e;ieHa h MacrcHHKHHa 3ejienu.ia.
Ma;ioj
oko cbhx o6a/ia
je
ripecnH,
Koja
borsl 3e/ieHa.
jiokh
y KpeHfoany,
H3Haa ayd/bHx nap-
Ma;ie flpecne h H3Ha# hhbhhkc H'creHCKe yBa.ie,

Menia ce y 3e/ieHy 6ojy BOê hchito n.iaBeTHHâ.
y ceBepHOM neny Ma;ior Je3epa 6oja BOe je oko
o6a/ia upHKaaro->KyTa, a ii3Haa y6;bHX napTHj'a Hh/ih6apcKH >KyTa y jy>KHOM ycKOM #e;iy, koj'h je yoKBHpeH
Kpewtt>am<HM OAceuHMa, 6oja BOe je OTBopeHo-3e.ieHa.
HaJBeha je npoBHAHOcr je3epcKe BOê 6n;ia Ha^
HHBHMKOM Vjiy6liHOM OR 7'2 If. H jy>KHO OR ibe 7'4 m.;
HHawe npoBHHocr BOAe npecnaHCKor Je3epa pacre y
rviaBHOM y npaBuy ca C. Ha J., 3aTHM y npaBuy ca H.
Ha 3. MeijyTHM je y ueÔM MaôM Je3epy He3HaTHa h
peTKO r#e npe/ia3H 1 if., 36or onncaHnx opraHCKHx h
THj'a
xyMycHHx cacrojaKa.
Hi thx Mepeiba nana3H rz y f o;ieMoj ripecnn h
Ma;iOM Je3epy HeMa TeMnepaiypnora CKOKa, HeMa ra
hh y KpniiCKOj yBa/in or 27 m. Ay6HHe. Mel)yTHM ce
y hhbhhkoj yiia.in Ma;ie flpecne KOHdaTyjy rbz TeMnepaTypHa CKOKa, Kao h y Oxphackom Je3epy: jeân
y Ay6HHH or 15 ro 25 m., a zipyrn 35 ro 45 m.; ohh
cy jacno oflBojenn jeanuM oiojeM borq or 25 ro 35 m.
y KOMe TeMncpaiypa Bp;io cnopo ona;ia.
npocrpanoj f o/ieivioj ripecnn, unja je ue/ia noBpiHHHa JieTH H3/I0>KeHa jaKOJ HHCOâUHJH, MHJa BOAa
ca;jp>KH MHoro cycnenÔBaHHX necTHua h n.Ma wyiy
6ojy, 3arpeje ce JieTH ueo boachh oioj or noBpuinne
ro AHa; na noBpujHHH 6n/ia je TeMnepaiypa bo
a Ha Rny h ;xy6nnH 27 m. caMO 18", aaK;ie je 6n/ia
TeMnepaTypHa pa3/iHKa na KpajtbHM noBpnjHna.Ma boAeHor c.noja or 27 m. Ae&bHHC cavio 2,5 C. Te.MnepaTypa Bozie ona/ia HCTHHfl neimo 6p>Ke na ;iy6nnn
110M\
HOBA CPBHJA
82
ojx 15 no 25 m., a^H ce He MO>Ke roBopHTH o npaBOM

TeMnepaiypHOM CKOKy. JXok ce Oxphacko h OcrpoBcko Je3epo HHKa^ He 3aMp3aBajy, o6a FlpecnaHCKa cy
ce nocJieflHDHx 90 roAHHa uejia Mp3Jia, H3y3eBiuH hhBHHKy yBa^y, Koja ce Morvia caMO Aa npeByqe TaHKOM
/ieAeHOM KopoM. MeijyTHM je Ha Tojieivioj flpecnn jieA

6ho TpH nyia TaKo Ae6eo Aa ce ca caoHHuaivra npe;ia3H;io c je^He CTpaHe je3epa Ha Apyry. npeMa TOMe,
y npecnaHCKOMe Je3epy Haciyna 3a BpeMe Bpjio onrrpHx
3HMa HHBepCHa CTpaTH(J)HKauHJa BOAe no TeMnepaTypH,
t.j. cjiynaj Aa cy ropfoH crcojeBH BOAe HH>Ke TeMnepaType ho AOtbH, HHja je TeMnepaTypa Taâ BepoBaTHO
oko 4 C; aok y Oxphackom h Octpbckom BiaAa
CTa^Ha AHpeKTHa cipaTH(J)HKauHJa, T.j. roptt>H cnojeBH
cy yBeK BHiue TeMnepaType ho aoh>h. ToMe je y3pOK,
nopeA oiUTpHJe kjihmc FIpecnaHCKor Je3epa (Koje jiokh
oko 200 m. BHiue on. OxpHACKor, a oa OcTpoBCKor qaK
OKO 370 M.) H (J)H3HKa^HHX OC06HHa BOAe (MHOrH H
K^ynHH cycneHAOBaHH Aejinhn), join h Maft>a Ay6HHa
FIpecnaHCKor Je3epa, 36or Koje je tberoB TonÔTHH
pe3epBoap He3HaTHHJH ho y Apyra ABa je3epa, Hapomhto He3HaTHHJH ho y OxpH^CKOM Je3epy.
Ha ripecnaHCKOM Je3epy B/iaAajy hcth ahcbhh BeTpOBH KaO H Ha OxpHACKOM, H 30By Ce AeHHK H HOhHHK.
OCHM OBHX BeTpOBa, KOJH Ce CBaKH AaH CMefbyjy,
AyBa JieTH OB.ua OHAa h 3ropeH, h to ca Ta^HHHue;
o6hhho noMHe OHAa KaA npecTaHe achhk a join ce He
nojaBH HohHHK. Oh OAroBapa, AaKJie, CTpMuy OxpHACKor Je3epa."
3.
AojpaHCKo Je3epo.
42*65 km.'2 bcjihko, 10 m.

Ay6oKo, a orvieAajio My je 148 m. bhcoko H3HaA MopCKe noBpniHHe. HMa o6/ihk oKpyn/iacre yBa/ie Koja
je HeuiTO BHuie H3ByneHa Ha jyry h ceBepOHCTOKy.
JXho fceroBO HMa o6/ihk Kap^nue nnja ce HajAy6/ba
TaqKa Haâ3H 6/iH>Ke npeMa jyroHCTOHHOJ o6a;iH. BoAa
My HMa TaMHO h 3aracHTO 3e;ieHKacTy 6ojy, a CKopo
je^HaKO je Tonâ h Ha AHy h Ha noBpuiHHH. ./TeTH
ZlojpaHCKO Je3epo
je
8^
Ob/IHUH 3hMA>HLUTA
HMa TeMnepaTypy 4*4 ao 158 Ue.iCHjycoBHx. BoAa

My je /iaKa, ynoipe6:baBa ce 3a nunc h KyBaibe. rio
6hctphhh h npoBHAHOCTH BOAe ZlojpancKO Je3epo ce
H3Aoaja oj cbhx n.iHTKnx MaKCiioHCKHx je3epa. HajBeha npoBHanocT My je 3'65 if. ripoBHAHHJe je ho BeIUHHHO, AJBaCHACKO H TaXHHCKO. IlpOBHAnO je CKOpO
nao Octpbcko Je3epo. Koje je on, n>era ceâM nyia
ny6jhe. Hhbo HojpancKor Je3epa HHJe ue;ie roAHHe
daâH h Ha hctoj bhchhh, Beh pacre h onaâ npeMa
Ao6y roAHHe. F/iaBuy BOAy Ao6nBa on Bpeâ Koja H36Hjajy Ha tberoBOj hbhuh, h oa hoaboahhx H3Bopa.
y (J)e6pyapy nomiy th H3Bopn H36auHBaTH Behe Mace
BOjie, h je3epcKO orvieAa/io noMHe Har.io pacTH. TaKO
Tpaje ao anpHAa, KaAa noHHe onaâTH. HaJBehe craH>e
je3epcKa BOAa AOCTHHte y anpH/iy. Taâ ce BOAa nonne
BHUje on no/ia Meipa HaA cbojhm pannJHM CTatbeM.
Onaâ CBe no aBrycra. V jeceH h 3HMy odaje Ha hctom
CTaiby. Or Ha3aa AeceT roAHHa ona>KeHO je na BOAa
cbc BHUje pacre. y noneTKy Mapia 1901 je3epcKa BOAa
je 6H/ia to/ihko HaAom/ia â cy r/iaBHa y/inua, MapHiHJa h no.noBHHy na3apa y BapouiH Hojpany 6hah toahko non/iaB/beHH Aa ce Mopa/io no HaMeujTeHHM AaCKaMa npe/ia3HTH. Ta.ua cy ABOpnuira cbhx Kyha y thm
y^HuaMa Gn/ia noA boaom. Pn6apcKe KO/iH6e 6n/ie cy
TaKOê non/iaB.-bene h 36or Tora MHore HanyujTene. Te
roAHiie je3epcKO ornenano je napac/io 3a 80 canTHMeTapa. JXa He 6h Bapoiu 6H.ia cacBHM non/iaB/beHa, mopa/iH cy npoKonaTH Kopnro fro.iaje Koje ce 6h.io 3acy/io. Ta#a je kophtom "I.So.iaje, noTeK/ia 6p3a h jaKa
pena, kojom ce y naMuy momo cnycrnTH y ApuaHCKO
1
Je3epo.
no je.iepy ce Hecro ona>Kajy, KaA je BOAa Mynia

h 6e3 Ta/iaca, mccthmhuc K.io6yKOBH kojh A0;ia3e oa
hoaboahhx H3Bopa. Te H3Bope pn6apH no3najy Ao6po
36or Tora ujto ce oko h>hx pn6a Kynn, h 30By hx
t
,KaJHauHMa".
O BowHhy
je
1900
ne/io je3epo ce
pa3opno CBa AOBHima h pnGapjKc
CMp3.io h nen
Ko.infie. Jit
OAp>Kao neT !!c;u' ba H iia n.eMy ce npe/i<i3H:io c jcahot Kpaja Ha ApyrH. flaMTH cc ah ce uc.io aaicpano h
6*
84
HOBA CPBHJA
npe 20 roAHHa. HHane CBaKe 3HMe 3aMp3Hy ce caivio

n^HhHHe nopeA o6a;ia.
Oa BeTpoBa HajjaîH je BapAap" h/ih kphbh Beiap,
kojh noAH>Ke Be;iHKe Taâce. Obh Hajjane Jiynajy HCTO^Hy
o6a;iy, Koja je 36or Tora noTnyHO HHcra o^TpcKe. Oia6hjh cy ceBepoHCTOHHH KpnBeu.", h ceBepHH, kojh ao.na3H c BejiacHue, KajiHiiiHHK" hjih npaB Beiap". Hajchjihhjh je ô6poBeH", KOJH JXOJia3U c jyroHCTOKa, KOJH
je jaK Kao npaBa o/iyja, ajw kojh ,ayBa Bp;io peTKO h
06HHHO 3HMH.
nOCEBHM
01 IMC
JXEO.
IIOJEAHHHX OBJ1ACTH W MECTA
I.
I'OPhbE nOBAPÂPJE.
HajroptbH neo BapâpeBa c/iHBa npeAcraB/ba 3ace6ny npnpoAiiy, eKOHOMCKy, na ,noHeK/ie, h Ky/nypHy uejinny. Ca cbhx CTpaHa onKO/beH je bc/ihkhm nâHHHaMa,
H3Met)y KOJHx cc npo6HJajy ycKe h TemKO npoxojuie
K.iHcypacTe penHe ,ao;iHHe. Ha ceBepy, npe\ia KocoBy,
MeToxnJH h ao/ihhh Jy>KHe MopaBe, 3aTBopeH je LLIapoM,
UpHOM TopoM (KapanaroM), PyjHOM h Ko3JaKOM. Ha
3ana;iy je 3aTBOpeH To/ieiuHHUOM h 5a6yHOM, a Ha jyry
BeêiuKOM K/iHcypoM. HcroMHy My rpaHHuy MHHe Bpera^HHua h 3/ieTOBCKa Pena.
Hempa/my o6/iacT y TopHaeM noBapâpjy mhhh
CKoncKa KoT.iHHa. V fboj ce CTHwy nyieBH ca cbhx
CTpaHa, h H3 ibe ce neHTpa/iHiuyhn yTHMe Ha ue.ny ry
o6;iacT. 3a iby je ckohomckh Be3an h flo/ior, kojh ca
Popn>HM IloBapaapjeM KOMyHHunpa Cyxoao.umoM. Ha
3ana^y cy n.iaHHHCKC >nyne K/iena, Xac h Ba6yna, Koje
ce no cbojoj k.ihmh, Be/ieTaunJH h Hapo;uioj npHBpeAH
3iiaTH0 paanmcyjy oj o6;iacTH oko Bapaapa. no cbom
)KHBOTy h cao6pahajy ynyhene cy Ha BapâpcKy noJinny, h mhhc eKOHOMCKy no3a^HHy BapoujH Be/ieca.
Hctohiui fleo Popiber IloBapjapja caMHibaBa japaBan
Obmc floê h KparoBCKe pyaapcKe 06/iacrH. ropn.n
Mi/ieiu h KowaHCKa KoT/inna yc
BcriHKe yAa.bCHOCTH, TepeHCKHX TeujKoha h 3ace6Hor
>KHBOTa HMHJy 3HaTH(> ApyKMHJe K.1HMCKC H npHBpCAHO
iipH.nHKr, h nOfUUQfl
loneK.ne Kao lacefma ofi.iacr,
(vihb Bpera.'iHHU",
HOBA CPBHJA
88
DiaBHy h ueHTpa^Hy o6;iacT y roptbeM IloBapAapjy hhhh Ckouckcl KoiuAima, y Kojy ce CTHHy koMyHHKauHj'e ue;ie o6;iacTH, h Ha Koje OHa yTHê ueHTpajiHiuyhH. y CKoncKy KoTJiHHy panyHaheMO OBe 06/iacTH:
B;iaTO hjih BjiaTHJy y aojihhh BapAapa, CKoncKy UpHy
Topy, Topiba h IloHba Ceâ h Top6eme. FloBpiuHHa
UpHe Tope h CKoncKe paBHHije h3hoch 393 km'2 flaHopaMa CKoncKe KoT/iHHe je oco6HTe Jienoie BHAe
ce BHCOKe, rvioMa3He n/iaHHHCKe Mace, MaxoM rojie, HeKe
h inyMOBHTe, 3aTHM ouiTpH BpxoBH h rpyne oa 3aBpiiiKacTHx BpxoBa Hajjienmn cy JaKynnua h Jby6oTHH,
kojh cy HaJBHiiiH, h hhjh HMno3aHTaH H3nieA nojanaBa
h to iuto cy h êTH noA CHeroM. riopeA Tora CKoncKa KoT^HHa ce OA^KKyje BejiHKHM 6pojeM ycKHx h
Ay6oKHx K^HcypacTHx AOflHHa Koje ca cbhx cTpaHa y
n>y H36Hj'ajy h bhahkc Ha CBe cipaHe OTBapajy. TaKBe
cy KJincype JlepBCH H3Mei]y TeTOBCKe h CKoncKe Kot^hiic, KaqaHHHKa lOincypa H3Mel]y noc;ieAtt>e h KocoBa, TaopCKa FOiHcypa npeMa Bejiecy h KJincypa
FlqHfbe H3HaA KaT/iaHOBa. Ha ceBepy h HCTOKy OHa je
OTBopeHa, jep ce aho HêHO AH>Ke Ha 3apaBHH ZIyre
hbHBe h OBHe nojbe.
y cKoiicKoj pasHimii pa3JiHKyjeMO ABa AeJia, h to
kojh
ce Haâ3H y paqBaMa BapAapa, JleneHua h
Aeo
TpecKe, h jyroHCTOHHH Aeo, kojh je MaxoM noA moh,
BapaMa, h kojh ce 30Be EAauluja. npBH Aeo, kojh

heMO 3BaTH Ckoucko Mefyyeofje, cacraBJêH je oa n;iaBHua h HaHoca ropitHx Tpnjy pei<a. Th cy HaHOCH y
Ay6HHH oa LUJbyHKa h necKa, a no Bpxy ao 1 ao 3 m.
BHCHHe je upHa MyjbeBHTa 3eMJba, Koja je 3HaTHe n;iOAhocth. y MeljyBofjy cy necra njiHTKa, necKOBHTa y;iemyha, Koja cy Hcnyn>eHa MOHBapaMa h 6apaMa. Ha-
Pohhto MHoro TaKBnx MOHBapa HMa H3Mei)y BapAapa

h jy>KHor o6oAa CKoncKe Kotjihhc. HaJBeha je OHa ihto
ce npy>Ka oa 6nBuie TypcKe rHMHa3Hj'e npeMa A^n6eroBy HH'iviyKy. Te MO'nsape npeAcraBJbajy ocTaTKe oa
nerAaiHFber BapAapeBa KopHTa, i<oje je oh HanycTHO
h noqeo Tehn ceBepHHJe. H3y3eBuiH OBe MOHBape, h
one naprnje oko BapAapa h TpecKe, ocra/iH Aeo MeJjyBOâ je Bp/io nôAaH, totobo ce MO>Ke
pehH>JAa
je
TOPIbK nOBAPÂPJE
to HajnÔAHHJH jxeo CKoncKora Uojha. Boê H3 pcKa

H3Be,neHe cy y ja30Be KOJHMa ce HaTanajy ibHBe h
Kpehy BO,neHHue. 36or OBora 6oraTdBa y bojxh h OHaKor cacraBa 3eM;bHHJTa, MeljyBOê je hcoGhmho ujiojxho.
Ochm o6hhhhx >KHTa ceje ce nnpHHan, hciijto naMyna
h aHacoHa, a Bp;io MHoro h noBplia.
y BâTHJH ce Bapâp, y3 npo/ienbe h jecetbe
KHiue, ch/iho pa3êBa h n/iaBH BehH jieo BâTHj'e. Hcto
Tano, MHore pene He Mory jxa Aonpy y Bapaap, Beh ce
pa3/injy no no;by. 36or Tora cBera y OBa ,1106a ro-
AHHe B.iaTHJa npe/icraB/ba npaBO je3epo, Koje ce .aouHHj'e noByne, a/iH on ibera ocTaHe no no;by MHoro Bo#e
h Be^HKHx 6apa. 3aio ce ueo OBaj Kpaj 30Be B.iamo
turn BjaiUnja. On thx MOMBapn HHKa/j He npecytnyjy
fopne BjaiTw h KaiuAanoecKo Je3epo. FIpBO je .nem
Ayro 50 no 100m., a ^pyro je bcjihko 424 km.- Obh
cy je3epa no HBHuaMa o6pac/ia poro30M, kojh cranoBhhijjtbo cene h ynoTpe6:baBa y AOMahoj npHBpcin.
y ohom Ae;iy B/iaTnje kojh .neTH ocTane cyB HMa Bp.To
6vjhhx /iHBaâ. 36or Tora CBera B/iaTHJa je cpeîbe,
rae me. h c/ia6e po^hocth. 3HaiaH iben êo hhjc 3a
o6pal)HBaibe, Beh je nojx c/ia6HM /iHBa/iaMa h naujaMa;
h 3aTO no ibeMy HMa /ie MHoro TopoBa, oko kojhx
cKoncKe ue;ie6i iHJe TOBe cTOKy Kojy npoaajy TproBUHMa h Ko/by 3a nacTpMy.
n Oene F1o.bc je 3apaBan, Koja ce H3HaA CKoncKe
Kot.ihhc .iH>Ke 3a 100 ,10 150 m. h HMa cpcaiby bhcHiiy oko 400 m. Ha 3ana;iy je orpaHHweno Bapâpo.M,
h to on ytulia Bpcra.iHHue no yinha Il iHiie.
BcroBa
ceBepHa rpaHHua je HH3 epynTHBunx Kyna, Koje npe/iCTaB.i.ajy pa3Bol)e H3Meljy Bpera/nmne h KpHBe Pokc,
a pa3Bol)e H3Mel)y 3/ieTOBUJTnue h A3MaKa je lberoBa
HCTOMHa rpannna. Ha jyry Aonupe no HH3a noBC3aimx
6p;u h Koca, Meljy KOJHMa je iiaJBHinii Boroc/iOBau,
OR 550 M. BHCHHC, HaJKapaKTepHCTHMHHJM II C3 CBHX
crpaHa BHâH, KynacT Bpx Obmct Ilo.ba. V obhm rpaf
Obhc fIo:i>e AyrawKO, y npaBuy ca ceBepa

na jyr, 40 no 60 KM., a LunpoKO ca HCTOKa iia 3ana,i
oko 30 km. Apea/i je iberoB bchhk oko 1400 km.
I'jiaBiia peKa OBMera flOM, A3M8K, iipnrnwe Bpcra/iHHuaMa
je
90
HOBA CPBHJA
hhuh. hberoB je oihb bcjihkh oko 609 km.-, a Ay>KHHa

oko 40 km. CKopo y cpeztHHH OBqer IToJba je HeroBO
MaBHO MeCTO H Tp>KHUJTe, Cb. HHKOJia HJIH KjIHCeJIH.
JyroHCTOMHH Aeo OBHer flojba, Ha AecHoj o6a/iH Bpera^HHiie a y 6;ih3hhh UJTHna, 30Be ce Jokcbo flojbe.
flpocTpaHO MeljyBoê H3Meijy FlqHHbe h KpHBe
PeKe Koje je Ha C. orpatjeno KpHcrajiacTOM njiaHHHOM
Ko3jaKOM a Ha H. AonHpe CKopo ao hxnyiHHe C/iaBHUiTa, 30Be ce Cpedopex; MattH hctohhh Aeo Te 06jiacTH, y HenocpeAHOj 6jih3hhh OiaBHuiTa, 30Be ce
CiupatÛH. CpeôpeK h CrpauHH cy Be;iHKe njioqe Ha
KOJHMa ce AH>Ky MHorH KynacTH tojih BpxoBH, nopeiâHH y npaBixy ceBepo3anaA-jyroHCTOK. HMajy cpeAH>y
BHCHHy OA 500 AO 600 M., C HaJBHUIHM BpXOBHMa
OKO 900 M.
Ha jyro3ana,ny oa Be-JieuiKe Kjiwcype cy cjihbobh
Tono;iKe h Ba6yHe, kojh cy CKyna bcjihkh 930 km 2
C/ihb obhx peKa noAeJbeH je y ABe >Kyne. y ceBepo3anaAHOM Ae/iy n>eroBa je acyna Xac, HcnoA nâHHHe
TojieiuHHue h HjeHHx orpaHaKa; OHa 3axBaTa c^hbobc
Tono^Ke h Toptbe Ba6yHe ao H>eHHx cacTaBaKa ca
peKOM H3BopuiTHuoM. y Xacy HMa oko 24 ce/ia, oa
koj'hx je rviaBHO BoroMHJia, npHBpeAHH ueHTap >Kyne.
Oa daBa H3BOpuiTHue h Ba6yHe, Aajbe hh3 Ba6yHy,
HacTaje >Kyna KAeua, o6yxBaTa h ce/ia oko qyKacTor
Bpxa HCTor HMeHa, h Aajbe H3Metjy peKe Ba6yHe h
OBora Bpxa ao BapAapa. DiaBHO ce/io h aAMHHHcrpa.
thbhh ueHTap K;iene

25 cejia."
je
MHneBO.
K/ienH HMa
oko
TeuLoechca KoulAUHa']e BejiHKa oko 232 km 2 Orpa\)ena je Ha C. 3. IUapoM, Ha J. B/iaxHHHuoM h ByKObhkom, a Ha J. H. CyxoM TopoM h >Kcahom. Remi ce
Ha Tpn napTHJe. Hajseha je ToptbH Flojior, y Kojy ce
panyna odjiacr oa BapAapeBHx H3BOpa h nâHHHe
ByKOBHKa ao TeTOBCKe BncrpHue, h y kojoj je maBHO
Medo TocTHBap. CeBepHH Aeo kotjikhc, oa TeTOBCKe
BHCTpnue ao BapAapCKor ZlepBeHTa, 30Be ce JIohdH
rio;ior, h MOHce ce y3eTH na je TeTOBO HêroBO niaBHO
Medo. Oa TeTOBa ce ao ,HepBeHTa npywa ncnoA LLIapa
BaôBHTa noAropHHa, cacraBJbeHa nonnaBHTO oa penHHx
TOPHjE nOBAP/lAKIE
nâBHHa, Hajryiuhe HaceêHa, h 30Be ce nonrop\ CKopo

y cpe^HHH no^ropa je Ma;ia KO/ia6a Teapue. Hanoc/ieTKy, HaJHHJKH #eo TeTOBCKe KoiviHHe, oko caMora
Bap/iapa totobo HeHaceêa, 30Be ce Bapâpnja TeTOBCKa KoT/iHHa HMa oTBope caMo Ha hctomhom OKBnpy,
h H>HMa cy or HajpaHHJHx hctophjckhx BpeMeHa BOAH/ie
h Boê KOMyHHKauHJe 3a CKon;be. F/iaBHH h umpH
otbop HaâiH ce H3Me^y Cyxe Tope h n/iaHHHe /KeiiHa,
h 30Be ce y hctomhom ae/iy Cyxoao/iHua, a y 3ana/uiOM
Ka;upMH-5ora3; H>HMe BOAHapyM OATeTOBa0 CKon/ba.
Xlpyrn otbop je K/iHcypa BapâpeBa Ha C. on. /KeiHa,
h 30Be ce ZtepBeHT. To je OHa Be/iHKa OKyKa kojom
Bapâp o6H/ia3H oko >Ke;ma h y;ia3H y CKoncKy Kot/iHHy; rt>0Me bo/ih pt)aB KapaBaHCKH nyT kojhm ce Hae
H3 ce.na Hoiber flo/iora h LLJape y CKonê".
V Ckohckoj Kotvihhh ce Beh ocehajy yTHuajn MeAHTepaHCKe k/ihmc HapoHHTo ce oceTH Be/iHKa pa3/iHKa Kaji ce Henocpe/iHO Jiohe or Bpaibe y CKoncny
Koiyinny. fiera cy npaha, ca Matbe khiuc, paHHJe noMHihy h Ryma Tpajy. KyMaHOBCKO-npeuieBCKa 3apaBan,
h aKo je HHCKa, npeacraB/ba 3HaTHy npenpeKy 3a yTHuaje MeAHTepaHCKe k/ihmc JleTH cy y CKoncKOJ paBHHmi
necHOCHe were, Ba3Ayx je Bpyti h or 6apcKHX ncnapen>a 3aryuj.^HB; h npn MaibeM BeTpy CBa ce o6aBHje
y 06/iaKe or npauiHHe. 3H.\ia je Ha npoTHB Bp/10 oiiJTpa.
Oco6hto je rocbrzh x/ia/iaH ceBepHH Bdap kojh
iiyBa npeKO KyManoBCKo-npeujeBCKe 3apaBHn h Hanocn
orpoMHe CMeTOBe. HapoMHTO je jaK na flyroj Hhbh h
na npocTopy H3Mctjy CKon/ba h KyManoBa.
y 06/iacTH MapKOBe Pene, yc/ica Tora luto je
ujywa HCKopeibena n 3eM:iHinTe noinynu oro/ie/io, Ba3^yx je Tonao h cyx. flpeKO OBe cyBe h 3arpejaHe n/10mc /ieTH CTa.mo ayBajy jaKH BeTpoBH, kojh yûmviaBajy
CTapn je3epcKn necaK h My/b h pa3H0ce ra no CKonCKOJ Kotvihhh, o6aBHjajyliH ce Mecro y cu/iawe o^ npaHJHue. MecTe cy /lOKa/we 0/1 v June, a
pa;* ;ieTH no
mime nyTa t\
Omie Ho/be npeACTtBJbi yaAiiniyTy n na cbc
li pane OTBopeny 3apaBaii. Vc/iea Tora KJlHMa je El|
MeH;bHna, uecie cy inMioro/ie n o/iyje. tana
>pa,
1
92
HOBA CPEHJA
ncapKa h 6ecKHiuHa. 3HaiaH jxeo je jicth Tano

cnpjbeH h ro na. HMa H3ryieA dene. CBe je nowyTcao
h yBenyjio, caivio no c;iaTHHaMa HMa Majio 3e;ieHHJia.
H MaftH BeipoBH AH>Ky npauiHHy, HdHHa y MaHboj MepH
ho Ha 3apaBHH MapKOBe Pene. CyHqaHH 3paun neKy
h JiaKO 3arpeBajy oroê^H, >KyhKacTH, JiHCKyHOBHTH necaK, kojh ce 6jbemTH h He aa y ce nor/ieaaTH. CKOpo
HHi\a;e HeMa #pBeTa. JXpBO 3a rpatjy ao6HBajy oa KocoBCKe MnTpoBHue. OraH> y KyhaMa o/ip>KaBajy oiamom h ca Majio ApBa. H3iyieaa &a yBeK HHJe 6hjio
OBaKO rojio. Ha yAajbeHHJHM MecTHMa Hat)e ce joui h
ca^ no kojh xpacT.
Oihbobh Tono;iKe h Ba6yHe cy ca cbhx cipaHa
3arpai]eHH njiaHHHaMa roJieuiHHUOM, BoponojbeM, Ba6yHOM h MyKacTHM BpxoM KjienoM, a OTBopeHH cy caMO
npeMa Bap,n;apCKOj ao;ihhh koa Beêca. IlopeA Tora
OHe cy eKcnonHpaHe npeMa ceBeponcTOKy. CpeAâ
BHCHHa hm je 250 jio 300 m. Vcneji, cbhx thx ocodHHa,
c^hbobh Tono;iCKe h Ba6yHe cy JieTH Ma;io cbokhjh
oa ocTa^Hx o6âcTH Koje cy uoa hctom reorpacj)CKOM
uiHpHHOM. JleTHoe KHHie HHcy peTKe. Ba6yHa h Tono^Ka HHKa^ He npecymyjy. Flo roJieniHHUH, Ba6yHH
h oko npncaâ HMa CHTHoropnue, MecTHMHue h KpynHe
rope. Hho KOT^HHe je BehHM aejioM h ;ieTH 3eêH0.
no k^hmh h BereTauHJH h onurreM H3rvie,ay, obh c;ihbobh HHHe RoneKJie npeâ3 H3Me^y MczurrepaHCKe h
cpeAHê-eBponcKe k^hmc
3aKôtbena IUapOM Ha ceBepy a OTBopeHa Cyxoaojihuom npeMa CKoncKOj Kotjihhh h Bapâpy, TeTOBCKa KoiVIHHa p>KH Cpe^HHy H3Mel]y jy>KHHX H/IH
MaKeÔHCKHX H ceBepHHx HJIH cTapocpdnjaHCKHX KOT/iHHa. noaiezutHMa ce BHUie npn6^H)Kyje. 3HMa je
cueroBHTa, ouiTpa, #yra, a;w 6e3 #yroTpaJHHx jaKHx BeTpoBa; noHHibe y rviaBHOM Ha Mecen jiaua. npe ho y Ckonjby, a xjiaAHoha nonycTH Heuno AOijHHJe ho y CKonjby.
ripo/iehe h jecen cy KpaTKH h khihhh. ./IeTH ce Bpjio
peTKO oceha HecHOCHa MaKeAOHCKa >Kera, Beh je Ba3j\yx MaxoM cbok h npnjaTaH,
Kao y Majy y jy)KHHM
MaKeôncKHM KOT^nnaMa. 0;yiHKyje ce 3HaTiiOM ko/ihwhhom aTMOC(j)epcKHx Ta/iora, HaponnTo KHme h cHera,
jieia cy
93
TOPFbE nOBAPflAPJE
Koje aohocc MaxoM 3ananHH h jyro3ana^HH BeTpoBH.

Oco6hto cy or BeTpoBa 3aK,ioft>eHH npncojuH h ton.iH Flo^rop h ocTa.ie jy>KHe crpaHe Ulap-ri/iaHHHe h
fbeHa cyno^HHa. TeTOBCKa je KoiviHHa HapoHHTO mhoro6poJHHM iuapCKHM peKaMa jano hbbo nibQua pe i ma
h noTOMHa Boâ ce pa3BOiin BaâMa, h ue/ia KoiviHHa
6HBa BeiuTaqKH HaBO/ubeHa.
y Be3H C OBaKHM (J)H3HMKO-reorpa(J)CKHM H K/IH.Mckhm npn/iHKaMa, jaB/bajy ce h pa3,iHKe y npHBpeAHOM
>KBOTy Hapcaa, cneunja/iHO iberoBy HanHHy 3aHHMa?ba.
y CKoncKOJ paBHHUH oa.ihmho ycneBajy BHHorpa^H,
HapoMHTO Ha npHCOJHHM dpaHaMa CKoncKe Kot.ihhc
Flo caMOj* paBHHUH ceje ce MHoro >KHTa, Maibe ziyBaHa
h a(})HOHa. y paHHj'a BpeMeHa oko ÎeneHua 6n/ia cy Be
.iHKa opH3HUJTa, or koj'hx cy cana ocTa^H Ma^H Ae/iOBH.
y Uphoj Fopn ^y^H ce 6aBe noiviaBHTo o 3eMJbopajibH, jxocra h o BHHorpaAapcTBy, o6Ae/iaBajy ;iaH h
Kyjejby, h neryjy CBH/ieHy 6y6y. nopci Tora koa
nyhe ce 6aBe join o ixynijep.iyKy h ApBOAejbCTBy, a
Kao neKapn Hjy h y ryp6ei7iyK nopea Tora pa/je Ha
na^HHuy y CKoncKOJ paBHHUH, a 6aBe ce h npaB.beh.cm hy\iypa. Ce;ia oko KaiviaHOBCKor Je3epa 6aBe ce
MHoro h pH6apcTBOM. KaiviaHOBCKO Je3epo je Bp/io 60raTO ph6om. y hbeMy HMa tuapaHa, coMOBa h jery.i.a.
Ue.no je je3epo H3naBano je/uioM MOBeKy noji 3aKyn,
a r/iaBHH 3aKynHHK nem\ je3epo Ha HeKO/iHKO n noB6\i",
Ha KOJHMa /iOBe MaibH 3aKynHHUH. Pn6a ce /iobh pa3hobpchhm cnpaBaMa, or kojhx cy MHore cnoMeHyie
y napTHJaMa o OxpHjucKOM h /lopjaHCKOM Jc-3epy. Crahobhhlutbo oko MapKOBe PeKe 6aBH ce 3CM:bopa;iibOM,
Mane CTOwapcrBOM; Top6eiuH npaBe mhoto hyMypa,
kojh npoâjy y Be/iecy h y CKon.i.y.
Obmc Ilo.be npeAcraB/ba o6.nacT cpe^n>e ujiorhocth. Hajn.io;iHHJe je Cb. HHKO.bCKo Ho.he h no/iHHa A3MaKa. Flo ii.ioahhjhm Ae/iOBHMa Obmct Io i>a ceje ce
noMaBHTO niuenHua, sanm m.ik win a(J>HJOH, no<
JUfcH y iiajnoBHJe Bpe.Me y orpoMnn.M pa.iMepa.Ma.
Miioro BHHorpaAa. y cpe^HBaiby /ie-nine nonaxcy
ihto Maryp6ci,irijaMa'' H3 cyaumix
.iema. M uviena iia je y mhmjmm BptMHHi
\
94
HOBA CPEHJA
JXanac je BHiue doqapCKH Kpaj ho 3eMjt>opaahhmkh. no H>eMy ce BHê MHora craâ pBaua h Bejihkh HonopH KOHâ h roBe.ua, Koja y okojihhh ôcra
ueHe. OBue cy KpynHe, HMajy ^yry ByHy, jano cy ueibeHe h Kynyjy hx 3a 6anHJia. BâTHUiTa y oko^hhh
LLlTHna 3acejaHa cy opH30M, ocia^H aeo paBHHixe je no#
KyKypy30M, nmeHHijoM h MaKOM. nocJie^tbH ce MHoro
ca^H h no3HaT je y ueôj MaKe#OHHJH. CMOJiy or MaKa
H3B03e y Co^yH h npoâjy chivicckhm TproBUHMa.
y cjiHBy Tono;iKe h Ba6yHe ct3hobhhujtbo ce
AHHJe.
norâBHTO 6aBH 3eMjbopa^JbOM, HapoHHTo BHHorpaAapcTBOM h 6aiuTOBaH^yKOM. Flo ;iyKaivia y rojiuhu

5a6yHe ceje ce nmeHHija h opH3, kojh je aia6HJe Bpde, 3aTHM MHoro BapMBa, Koje ce ueHH Kao Haj6ojbe
y MaKeAOHHJH h HMa HajBehy u,eHy. Ha oko/ihhm n;iaHHHaMa Ha;ia3e ce BâuiKa daqHJia, Ha KoJHMa jipxte
oko 6000 OBaua. B/iacn npoBOAe 3HMy y Teca/iHJH.
y o6âcTHMa ccBepHo or OBner flojba npHBpe}khbot 6ho jane 3aBHcaH or npHpoae 3eM;t>H
je
Ahh
LUTa, HapoMHTO foeroBa neTporâ^CKor caciaBa. Or
M/iaAor HaropHMHHa Ha 3anay .no cejia HHBH^HHa kor
KoâHa, h or n/iaHHHe Ko3j'aKa Ha ceBepy no OBner
Flojba Ha jyry, npocTHpe ce KpaTOBCKO-3;ieTOBCKa epynTHBHa 06/iacT, Koja je cacraBJbeHa norjiaBHTO or Tpaxhiohahhx CTena, 3aTiiM MecTHMHue or 6a3a^Ta, JieyUHTHTa, aHêsHTa h ryfya. To 3eMJbHiirre je y npaBuy
3ana,zi;-HCTOK ^yro 45 ro 50 KHJiOMeTapa, a y npaBuy
ceBep-jyr 10 jio 30 km. Hcnpeceuaho je HH30M nyKOTHHa, or koj'hx r/iaBHe H#y y npaBuy HCH.-3J3 h jxyxt
kojhx ce H3^nâ HaJBeha Maca epynTHBHHx cieHa.
Joui h caaa ce Mory peKOHCTpyHcaTH ByjiKaHCKe Kyne
h o6;ihuh Kpaiepa, kojh cy MaxoM AecrpyKUKJoM jaKO
Ae(})opMHcaHH. y TaKO je^HOM CTapoM By^KaHCKOM KpaTepy uana3n ce Bapoiu KpaTOBO, a y .apyroM MaHaCTHp JleCHOBO, 3aTHM MHOrH BpXOBH, KaO U,pHH BpX,
KopHj'a h flpyrH. OcoBHuy h niaBHo y3BHuieH>e OBe
epynTHBHe o6;iacTH mhhh hh3 By^KaHCKHx njiaHHHa h
Kyna Koje ce RWKy Ha JieBoj dpaHH Ta6aHKe h KpHBe
PeKe. y TOMe HH3y cy HajKapaKTepHCTHWHHJH IleneHHua, PfâBHua, UpHH Bpx, Orpa>KeBau h Hyi<a. OBa
,
iOFIi!
nODAHAAPJE
oporpa({)CKa ocoBHHa epymHBHor jeM/bHima

Be>Ke ce Ha H, 3a OcoroBCKe n.iaHHHe, a Ha 3anajiy ce
r.iaBHa
ry6H y TepuwepHOM 3eMJbHinTy oko riHHH>e.

OBe creHe cy MaxoM jaKo TpouiHe, .iai<o ce pacnaâjy, h on ilhx ociajy ,ne6e:iH c/iojeBH necKOBHTe
3eM/be, Koja je MaxoM upHa. MnaK 3e.\i;bHiiJTe HHJe
nnojxuo, jep npeKO ;ieTa HeMa AOBo;bHo KHine, h oho
odaje cyBO h cnpjbeHO. Cneuna.THO Tpe6a mhoto khhic
3a OHaj cyHljepacTH Tyc[), kojh ce y neraK pacnaâ.
3aTO je CpeaopeK y .neTO cyBa BHeopaBaH, 6e3 ApBeia,

ca cnapyuieHOM TpaBOM, cnp/beHa, y r/iaBHOMe cype H
UpHe 6oje. flope^ Tora n3Bopn cy Bp;io peTKH, h ujto
iix HMa cacBHM cy c/ia6H; peMHue h noTouu npeKO /ieia
iipecyiue. 36or Tora ce 11a cpeôpeMKOJ BHeopaBHH nein
jaKo oceha ocKy/iHua y boah. Hctc je c})H3HOHOMHJe h
nÔAHOCTH h dpauHH. no ibCMy CKopo HeMa ^pBeTa,
hhth TparoBa on uiyMe.
OBe 06/iacTH, nanac Tano cupoMaujHe, y 6ynyhmocth he je^HOM necyMfbHBO npcAcraB/baTH jeiiHy on
Haj6oraTHJHx 06/iacrH y npoujHpeHoj Cp6HJH. KpaTOBCKO-3/ieTOBCKa epyriTHBua o6.nacT npeAcraBJba jeany
Haj6oraTHJnx h HaJ3Ha\icHHTHJHx pyAHHx 06/iacrH 11a
ue.iOM FIo^yocTpBy. Join Xaiiu Ka.npa hcthmc 3/ia-rae
H cpe6pne KpaTOBCKe py;iHHKe, h bcnh na cy ce on
ibHx y KpaTOBCKOJ Ky3HHUH hobuh KOBa.iH. Amu Bye
je 3a6e.ie>KHO na KpaTOBCKH pyanHmi caapwe nor.iabhto cpe6poBHTH raviemrr y nopc|)npy, h na ce on 400
OKa ra/ieHura #o6HJa 200 OKa o/iOBa h 700 apaivia
cpe6pa. W npe TpHAecer
rpflecer ro^HHa cy no-
jcjhhh npejy3HMaMH na/iH/iH pyê y KpaTOBCKOJ okoMHoro MecTa Mnoro6poJHH cy TparoBH hoBHJer h dapHJer pyâpcrBa, napowHTO oko KpaTOBa,
3/icTOBa, TypcKor Pyâpa, Ho6peBa, Jleiunnua, y no-
.ihhh Ha
mum
Ky.ie,
Ta6aMKe Pckc h KpiiBe. To cy MaxoM pyaapcKe

pyAapcKH noTKOim H pync, h Miioro6pojnc Kync
OH TpOCKBC.
TâBHa na/ia3HUJTa pyzia H pyzuuix >KHna cy OBa.
peKe riOBHUJHi;e, npHTOUM KpHBC, H3
ce cyMnop h ihiic, KOJHMa je npenyiena iiOBpujmia
y AOAHHH
.;
96
HOBA CPBHJA
MHorHx Tyc})03HHx creHa. Hedo cy rHncoM h cyivinopoM npo>KeTe MHore Kyne Koje cy caciaBJbeHe oa ByjiKaHCKor nene;ia, necna h jiannjia. Ty ce Ha;ia3H h rBO>KêBHTa Boâ, nnja je TeMnepaTypa HeiiJTo BHiua oa
odHHHe. Hcto TaKO, y aojihhh TadaMKe PeKe koa cejia
>Kejie3HHKa HMa jaK H3Bop KHcejie h rBo>KijeBHTe BOAe,
H3 Koje CO2 y Kjio6yKOBHMa cKane. y Tona;ioBHhcKoj
PeuH cyMnop ce jaBJba y bcuhkhm KOJinqHHaMa, o6hhho
hhct h y ê6jbHM )KHuaMa. Haj6oraTHj'e pyAHe >KHue
3ana>KeHe cy y aiHBy 3;ieTOBCKe ro;ieMe Pene h y
AO/iHHaMa aeHHX npmoKa. Ty cy ao npe 40Ao50roAHHa h TypuH pyAe toiihjih. Ha nyiy oa KpaTOBa 3a
neneHHuy no3HaTH reojior Amu Bye BHAeo je koa ce/ia
B;iH3aHaa cpe6poHOCHH rajieHHT. Ha o6e CTpaHe pene
One h y npaBizy oa n>e npeMa MaHacTHpy bhah ce
npeKO 1 km. Ayra, h 20 ao 30 m. Ae6e;ia pyAHa >KHua,
y kojoj je T. U,BHJHh Haiuao rBOHri)a, MaHraHa, cpe6poHOCHor rajieHHTa, nnpHTa h xajiKonnpHTa. Ha npodopy
H3Metjy Zlyror XpHAa, JlecHOBCKor MaHacTHpa h ce/ia
JXo6peBa BHAe ce 7KHu,e oa nHpyji03HTa. ,Hajbe HMa
>KHua Koje y ce6H caApê Ma/iaxHT, cpe6poHOCHH rajichht h ccf)ajiepHT.
HcnHTyjyhH TpocKBy H3 Te o6jiacrH, M. Jleno

Hamao je y H>oj OBe pyAe: rBoadje, MaHraH, ojiobo,
uhhk, 6anap h cyMnop. flo MHnubeH>y J. Ueajaha, y
nnpHTHMa h xa^KonnpHTHMa Tpe6a Tpa>KHTH TparoBe
nêMeHHTHx pyAa. EpynTHBHO 6pAO, CeocKa Kopnja,
cacTaBêHO je oa ByjiKaHCKor necna h nenejia >Kyie
h upBeHe 6oje, kojh cy cjiokchh y côjeBe. BeoMa je
6oraTa cyMnopoM, kojhm cy CBe CTeHe npo>KeTe h kojh
ce qecTO jaBJba y Ae6;t>HM >KHu,aMa. CyMnopoM je Haj6oraTHJH Aeo Kopnje kojh ce 30Be Kyjia. Ty(J)03He
Mace y KOJHMa ce Ha;ia3H cyMnop caoraBjbeHe cy y
cyMnop je BpJio
rviaBHOM oa a^yMHHHj'yM-CH^HKaTa
hhct, ca He3HaTHHM TparoBHMa ceêHa h ynbeHHKa. Ty
je ao npe KpaTKor BpeMeHa BaJên cyMnop y BehHM
KOJiHMHHaMa. Hajbe cy Ty(})03He Mace necTO npo)KeTe
rnncoM h npeByneHe onaÔM. y Ty(J)y ce jaBJbajy h
>KHue nHpHTa h xa;iKO-nHpHTa. Oa fl/iaBHue h UpHora
;
rOPtt>E
Bpxa ao
ce/ia
p^n.iuBua
riOBAPflAPJE
npywa
ce
yAoaHHa no 4Hjhm
crpanaMa BHAe Tyc})OBH kojh cy jaKO npo>KeTH cyivinopoM. Hde ce nojaBe BHAe Ha I,JrypH h H3Met]y H>e
h ce/ia IlpHKOBua. Ha l.lrypn Ha;ia3e ce KynHima oa
ce
crape TpocKBe. Y npHMepuHMa Koje je AOHeo HbhjhIi,

Jlp. M. CTOJHJbKOBHh Haruao je MHoro o.iOBa, >Ke;ie.3a,
h CH^HKaTHor AHOKCHAa, npn/iHMHO 6aKpa, a^yMHHHj'a,
MaHraHa h aHTHMOHa, Bp/io Ma.no UHHKa, Ka.TUHJyMa,
MarHe3HyMa h Ka;wyMa.
Je^Hy oa Haj6oraTHJnx 06/iacTH y onujTe y Crapoj
Cp6HJH h MaKeAOHHJH npeAcraB/ba TeTOBCKa KoT/iHHa.
y cTaiby je Aa HcxpaHH He caMo CBOje craHOBHHHJTBO,
Hero h oKo.iHe KpajeBe.
hbene r.iaBHe Ky.nypne 6ha>kc cy KyKypy3, jenaM,
pa>K h OBac. Oko ce.ia Manpa ncnoA FocTHBapa HMa
Bp/io Ao6por AyBana. Ha o6a;iaMa BapAapa ceje ce
MHoro .nana h KOiion;be. Ha^ne, OHa je BoheM jeAHa oa
Haj6oraTHJHx KpajeBa Ba/iKaHCKor no/iyocrpBa. Oa TeTOBCKe BncrpHue no KawammKe K/incype, ueo npodop
je noKpHBeH niyMOM oa Bona,
y bhujhm napTHJaMa
pady KeereHOBH, kojh cy na bcthkom r/iacy y ne/ioj
CnoncKOJ dapoj Cp6nJH, a.in oa cBera Boha Hajno3naTHJe cy MyBeHe no/ionine ja6yKe, Koje cy OAaBAC
npeneie y Cp6HJy h no3Haie noA hmchom tctobckhx
ja6yKa. HaJBHine ce ueHe rocTHBapcKe jaGyKC, Hapomhto y rocTHBapcKHM ce/iHMa Bo>khuh h PeMaHHMa.
rio/ioiiiKe ja6yKe cy ce y bc^hkhm KO.iHMHnaMa H3B03H/ie h y Hapnrpa;i; h.hxobc naj6o/be Bpde 30By ce
y.ia6nje. II.Ma mhoto h 6ociaHa, kojh nopeA KouanCKor y>KHBa najGo.i.H rviac, nopeA Tora h uc.thx Caima
KpymaKa h in.i.nna. BnnorpaAa HMa Maibe h bhho je
/ioujhjc. TeTOBCKa KoiviHHa je 3naTiio 6oraia H myMOM,
h CTanoBHHUH ce 6aBe yrvbapcTBOM h apboac.i.ct
Yc.ieA MHornx bhcokhx ii.ianHna, oKO/inna TeTOBCKa
HMa ycioBe 3a cTowapcTBO. LUapcKO h KOpa6cno cuiyBCHO je n cnyno ce n/ialia no CBHMa yaiceAOHckhm BaponiHMa. TparoBa CTapor pyAapcTBa n
PVAimx Ha.Ta:mujTa HMa H3HaA ce/ia /laKajnue koa
1
I'ocTHBapa. IIoa
BaiHiie rpaAHha
ii'
nnaRHHOM ByKOBHKOM na/ia3e ce pa3k^jh ce 30Be 3bc3AHho Ka/ie

noA
;
HOBA CPKHJA
>8
caMOKOBH, rê ce rBO^Kê Tonn;io. A. Bye

cnoMHibe y Ulap-ruiaHHHH ABe MHJbe oa TeTOBa Hene
crape pyAHHKe h 6aKapHe pyAe koa cejia MejioneKa.
OrpoMHy BehHHy CTaHOBHHiiiTBa y ropêM noBapâpjy hhhh cpncKO CTaHOBHHinTBO, Koje ce jienn Ha
npaBOCJiaBHe h MyaiHMaHe. Ajih nopeA Cp6a HMa y
oboj o6;iacTH h Apyror CTaHOBHHiiiTBa: Typana, Ap6aHaca, B;iaxa h U,HraHa. Kp03 OBy o6;iacT npo;ia3H eTHorpa(})CKa rpaHHua H3Mel]y Cp6a h Ap6aHaca. OHa HAe
y râBHOM npemeBCKO-KyMaHOBCKOM yAOJiHHOM, h to
oa PHCTOBua nopeA FIpeiiieBa h OAMax 3anaAHO oa
KyMaHOBa. Ap6aHacH ce cnyniTajy npeMa >KeJie3HHHKOj
jihhhjh, Mec.THMHue cy je npeimiH, Kao koa KyMaHOBa, h
y caivioj BapouiH KyMaHOBy HMa ap6aHauiKHx nopoAHua
Koje cy noTypqeHe; hcto TaKO HMa hx h y CKon^>y, a Kao
Ap6aHacH Ap>Ke ce caMO 3040 Kyha K3tojihhkhx Ap6aHaca. y aiHBOBHMa nHHtbe h KpHBe HMa He3HaTHHx
Maca HOBHj'er h crapHJer CTaHOBHHiiiTBa, TaKO h. np.
TypaKa h TypCKHX Myxaunpa HMa y CBHMa BapouiHMa,
TAeÔHH 06HHH0HHHe BehHHy CTaHOBHHiiiTBa; BpJIO peTKO
hx HMa y ce;iHMa OBe o6jiacTH. TaKO BehHHy ^HHe y
CpeAfeeM h H,oft>eM Kotbapy, PaxMa30Buy, ArHHOM
Cejiy, UlHuiOBy h lOienoBuy y KyMaHOBCKOj o6;iacTH.
Rajhe TypcKO je cejio OpojocoBije, a HMa hx MHoro y
TypCKOM PyAapy h y cejiHMa Ope/iy, UpeHKy h y 3;ieTOBy. Hcto TaKO HMa hx y KapiiinjaKy, y roptBHM
h ^.ohdHm CejiHMa, y onuiTe y MapKOBOJ Peun. Ha
Obhcm nojby mhcto cpncKa ce;ia npeoB/iatjyjy y ceBepo-3anaAHOM Ae/iy h noA BorocnoBueM, a y jyatHOM
h>hm
cy
cy
Ae/iy
TypcKa.
npnnaAajy
TypcKOM
nêMeHy Jy-
pyUHMa, Koje ce BeoMa AaBHO Aoce^Hô H3 Ma;ie

A3Hj'e; HMajy H3nieA nen>a h opOHyjia CTaHOBHHUJTBa,
npeACTaBJbajy MO)KAa HaJHeKy;iTypHHJe craHOBHHUJTBO
obhx KpajeBa. /IpyKqHJH cy Typun KoifcapH, kojh
h jeAHH h Apyrn
cy Tpe3BeHH, BpeAHH h Bp/io paAHH
3Hajy noHeiiJTO cpncKH h 6yrapcKH. npnnaAajy ohom
;
nojacy kojh ce npyata oa Op(J)aHCKor 3a/iHBa ao ceBepo-3anaAHe HBHue OBqer

flojba, h kojh je Ha3BaH BapAapcKHM TypcKHM nojacoM.
OBnenojbCKH JypyuH cy HajceBepHHJH Aeo oa Tor He-
Be^HKOM
TypcKOM
99
TOPHdE nOBAPÂPJK
npoKHHyTor TypcKor nojaca, kojhm je oiobchcko craHOBHHLUTBO pa3ABOJeHO Ha ABC nOÔBHHC Tc ABC
noÔBHHe cy oohmho 6e3 Be3c, h Ta noABOj'eHOCT je
HecyMfoHBO yTHua/ia Ha to na ce CTaHOBHHiuTBO Hctomhc
h 3anaHe MaKeÔHnje y pa3/JHWHTOM npaBuy pii3BHJa. Thmc cy 6e3 cyMtbe n3a3BaHe MHore pa3/iHKe kojc
ce onawajy H3Met)y craHOBUHLUTBa Hctomhc h 3anaAiie
MaKCAOHHJe. H cpncKo cranoBHHiuTBO Oa4er floâ
MaxoM H3r.ic.ia 6caho, y H3AepaHoj oachh, qecro no;iyro;io, Tynor H3Meiia h y6njcnor jyxa. FIopcATHKBeiuKor
CTaHOBHiiiuTBa Ha ;ieBOJ CTpami Bap/iapa, CTaHOBHHUiTBO
OBMer no.ij.a npeACTaBJbanajGeiiHHJe CTaHOBHHiuTBO ue^c
MaKCAOHnjc h CKoncKe CTape Cp6nje. CacBHM cy ^pyKMHJH,CHeprHMHHJH HTpC3BCHHJli COJbaaHOKO BOTOClOBUa.
Obo TypcKO craHOBHMLHTBO, oa Obmct
no:i>a npoAp.io
AOHeK.ic h y AOibH aco pe:<c 5a6ync, rae ra HMa
hcko^hko ce/ia, on kojhx cy najno3naTHja Top^H 11
jc
Hoilh OpH3apn, 3aTHM Hcap-BajHpH. riopezi oaora y

ToptbCM rioBapAapjy HMa h HeuiTO B/iaxa, napoMHTO hx
HMa MHoro y ceBepo-HCTOHHOM zie/iy aocaAamtbe Ckoiickc
CTape Cp6nje, 3aTHM y cycciHHM 06/iacrHMa na CBe
CTpane oko flOca/iaLuibe cpncKO-6yrapcKO-TypcKC Tpohx Ha (, iapoj ri/jan;niH H na cpncKOJ h 6yrapckoj CTpaiiH, 3aTHM iia 6yrapcKoj crpaHH oko KoMa H Cpc6pne. HnaK ojj cbhx ccBepmix n/iamina Ba/iKaHCKor Uo/iyocrpBa, naJBHUJC hx HMa y n.iaiiHHCKOJ rpynn OcoroBa,
r;ie he nx 6hth oko Tpn xn;baAe Ayma; HMa hx y konancKOM AC/iy 0:oroBa, na H/iawKaBHun H na 6yrapcrpaiiH HCfiOA Pyjua, h ^Ba Maiba nacc:i>a ncnoA
CK(
.ÎecKOBCKor Manacnipa. riopcA Tora nx HMa n era/inn
nacraibCHHx, y mhoihm napoujHMa, napouHTO y Kowana.nanuH, K'yMaiiOBy n IIlTHiiy /le/ie ce
HHMa, KpHB
iia UpHC it bwie B/iace. Hckh cy 0,1 ibiix CTa/ino nace/bemi, a.iH hx Behrniy mhhc HOuaACKii B.iacn, kojh
êTH>KHBe no n/iaHiinaMa, xpaiic nor.iaBHTO OBue h koh>c,
a 3hmh CH.iajc y xcyaHHJa MecTa, a napo'iHTO y ao/inny
Kpnue H (Imhii.c, H Ty n/ulujy 3a SHMtby Hciiamy. V
KOMan.KOM Kpajy o.Mii H[u;ic;aB i3jv H C8JU r.iaBue KMnme ohhm KpajeBima aajy y
je ca ko
Mel)C. Ihia
.1
i!
KOJIHKO CpeAH>%BeKOBHH H
OlUl
n.i[
HOBA CPBHJA
100
ohh kojh ce cra;iHO HaciaHe, 6p30 ce noaiOBeHe. Hcto

TaKo HMa HeuiTO BJiauiKHx JieTH^Hx Hacejba no n;iaHHHaMa JlayTHUH h Co;iyHHUH, Ha KOJHMa ce ap>kh roAHLUHbe oko 6000 OBaija. 3hmh cna3e y Teca^HJy, a;w
hx HMa y npn;ieny cra;iHO HacraHbeHHx h nocaoBetbehhx. 3Ha ce Aa hx je y cpeAH>eM Beny 6ujio y obom
Kpajy MHoro
BHme
rsl
cy nocnoBeHoeHH.
CTaHOBHHUiTBO CpeAOpeKa, CpauHHa, npHBOpe 1!Kor Kpaja, OcoroBHJe h KonaHCKe o6;iacTH 30Be ce
UJoilUf a H>HX0Ba o6;iacT LUoHAyK h/ih HIoucko. Mecto ce LlIormMa Ha3HBajy h cpncKH craHOBHHUH OBner
flojba, uiTHncKe, paAOBHUiKe h crpyMH n<e okojikhc,
FiHJaHija, Maêma h Pa3ôra; 3aTHM qecTO LLIonHMa
Ha3HBajy craHOBHHK^ BHiuHx Ae;iOBa BpatbCKe n^Htbe,
BâcHHCKe o6âcTH, JIy)KHHue h rinpoia, a y ByrapCKOJ CTaHOBHHKe PaAOMHpCKe, Bpe3HHHKe H CO(J)HJCKe
Kot^hhc Flo HajnpocTpaHHJHM rpaHHuaMa, LlIonH 6h
npe^CTaBjba^H Be-nHKH eTHorpa(J)CKH nojac oa Bpan>e h
rinpoia, na ao UlTHna h CrpyMHue ao 6;iH3HHe BapAapa. Ha HCTOKy Aonnpy ao HcKpOBe K/incype, Coa Ha 3anaziy 3axBaTajy norpaHHHHe
(J)Hj'e h JlynHHue,
BHCOKe n;iaHHne H3Meijy ByrapCKe h Cpdnje, npeJia3ekH
3HaTHO y Cp6Hj'y. A^h rpaHHue LLlonoBa h itHxoBa
reorpacJKKa o6;iacT HHcy noy3AaHe. Ta ce o6;iacT MOH<e
h npouiHpHTH h cy3HTH, jep ce HMe lllon CMaTpa Kao
norpAHO, h peTKO ko xohe Aa npH3na Aa je Lllon. Beh
ce npeMa TOMe bhah Aa HMe LLIonoBH He npeACTaBJba
HHKaKBO n/ieMeHCKO HMe; hcto TaKo 3na ce Aa ohh
He npeAcraB/bajy HHKaKBy eTHorpa(J)CKy ue;iHHy, jep
je CTaHOBHHiHTBO pa3HOBpcHa nopeKJia, AOcejbeHO H3
MHornx cyceAHHx o6;iacTH.
Kao je3rpo moncKe o6;iacTH MO>Ke ce cMaTpaTH ago
Flojba ao nnpoTCKor BncoKa ca OrapoOBner
oa
Cp6HJaHCKHM JUon^yKOM, CO(})HJCKHM, paAOBHIHKHM H
6pe3HHHKHM KpajeM. IUTa 3HaMH hmc lllon, KaKBa je
iberoBa eTHMOJiornja, HHJe AOBOJbuo jacHO. HeKH nncun
aoboahjih cy ra y Be3y ca hmciiom Tpa iKor n/ieMCHa
CaneJH, Koje je >KHBe/io i<paj Be/ior Mopa npeKO nyia
oa ocTpBa Taca. Ann je yTBpêno Aa je to o6jaujtbeibe
carnHM npoH3Bo;hHO h 6e3 CBaKe jacHe Kay3a/iHe Be3e,
i
TOPIbE nOBAPAAPJE
101
Me^yTHM 3Ha
ce aa #aHac HMe LLIon HMa c/ihhho 3Haqeibe Kao llito ra HMajy HMena Top/iaK h LLlHJaK, hjih
AOHeK.ie Kao h HMe Ba;wja y Bochh. To cy CBe norp'AHa HMeHa, h 3a ibnx je Be3aHO 3HaweH>e upociuaK,
dllB.bUK H ZAyflClK.
HnaK H3Me.ua â pacnpocrpaibetbe H.vieHa LUon,
6ap y OHOMe iberoBOMe y>K0M 3Haqeft>y, Hehe uhth 6e3H3BecHH.x jawHx pa3/iora. TaKO na npHMep 3Ha ce â cy
TpuH 3hmh ro^HHe 1048 pa36n.TH BOJCKy neMeibenjKy
o& 80.000 /byAH, nama/in je Ha npeâjy h nace;iH/iH
je no paBHimaMa Cpeûa, Hnuja h OBner
riojba'.
Hcto TaKO 3Ha ce â cy y toj 06/iacrH Hace/baBaHH
h KyMaHH. CnoMeny.iH cmo #a y oboj o6.iacTH Koja npeacraB/ha AaHaiLHbH IUon/iyK HMa ôcra B/iaxa. 3Ha ce
Aa hx je y cpe^fbeM BeKy on.io mhoto BHiiie h rsl hx
je ocra noc.iOBeibeHo. Ka/i cse obo CBeêMO yje^HO,
nocraje HecyMibHBO na cy LLIonoBH npoH3Htu/iH H3
CNiece Cp6a, rieqejbera h B.iaxa. ITpeMa TOMe nocTaje
BepoBaTHO na je HMe IUon npBo6HTHO~Mopa/io 03uaqaBaTH HeKaKBy eTHorpacJ)CKy MemaBHuy.
HecyMibHBO je â LLIonoBH AaHac y MHoroM noi.iejy npeixcraB/bajy napouHTy eTHorpac{)CKy ue^nny,
Koja ce 3HaTHo pa3.iHKyje on craHOBHHLiiTBa ocra/ie
MaKc/ionHJe, na h o;i cranoBHHiuTBa ocra/ie Cp6nje n
ByrapcKe. HMajy Aocra cbojhx napounTHx cthhhkhx
h ncHxo.ioiiiKHx upia. Toko, na npHMep. IIJonoBH naPOmhto y miaBMHCKHii of>/iacTHMa, /khbc TaKO naTpnapxa.THHM II IipHMMTHBHHM /KHBOTOM fla Ce C IbHMO y
tomc nor/ie;xy jcina kojh /ipyrn Kpaj CTape Cp6nje H
MaKeflOHnje iioxce ycnopeljunaTH. TaKO na -npHMep
ce ynopeijyjy ca iiaTpnapxa/iHHM o6;iacTHMa aanajgHHX
h ceBepo3ana;iMHx cpncKHx o6/iacTH, bhah ce na mi
y ujupoj onoj ujoncKOJ oo/iacTH ncMa hh Tpara on
ii.ieMCua hh opaTCTBa, hh cbhx ohhx nojaBa Koje npaTe
n/ieMeHCKy opi ami unnjy, Kao ihto cy ruieneHCKO oceI
!ian,c,
KpBHa ocbi
ije/unmica n.ieMc-ncKa h
GpacTBena
na 6paCTBeHOJ
3aCHHBaH>e H rpynncaiit
A.iM
jcinn
ornn'iKa
nojaBa
HM8
COUHaJIHO
OCHODHUH.
HMaii.a,
no Kojnj
ce
UIonoBH 3hj
iicyjy
on hctoihhx
[injano:
no
102
HOBA CPBHJA
jaBa 3a#py>KHora >KHBOTa. FIopeA Te oco6HHe, h nopeA

pa3HHx je3HHHHx oco6nHa Koje moncny o6;iacT aoboac
y HenocpeAHy Be3y ca cpucKHM craHOBHHUJTBOM Hctohhc
MopaBe, y iiioncKOM craHOBHHiiiTBy HMa Ba>KHa join
je^Ha eTHHHKa oco6HHa, a to je idto CKOpo cbh LLIoc/iase c/iaBy, qera npaBe* 6yrapCKe o6;iacTH hhHeiviajy.
TaKO, Ha npHMep, HcnHTyjyhH pacnpoCTpatbeH>e pa3HHx jihhtbhcthhhhx h eTHorpac})CKHx
oco6HHa npo(J)ecop Be/iHh je yTBpAHO caeAehe: Aa
ocHOBHe, cpncKe je3HHHe oco6HHe Aormpy Ha hctok ao
^HHHj'e Koja HAe oa hctomhc HBHue nâHHHe njiayiua
Ha nâHHHy TaBpaH, na Aajbe Ha roptbH tok Bpera;iHHue y npaBuy npeMa TiycreHAHJiy. Oa thx Ba>KHHx
ocodHHa cy HajrviaBHHJe OBe: 1) peqHHK o6;iacTH Ha
3ana#y OBe jiHHHj'e je mhcto cpncKH 2) ynoipe6jbyje
ce cpncKO ft h \), MecTO 6yrapCKor -hit h >ka; 3) cbo
C/IOBeHCKO CTaHOBHHUITBO 3ana^HO OA Te JIHHHJe CJiaBH
c/iaBy, Koje Ha HCTOKy OATcnHHHJe CKOpo hhioko HeMa;
4) 3a^pyre ce jaBJbajy CKopo HCKjbyqHBO Ha 3ana^y
oa Te ;iHHHJe.
H3ivieAa Aa cy h y cnojbHeM H3nieAy OBora eraHOBHHiHTBa canyBaHH TparoBH pa3HHX eTHOrpa(J)CKHX
MeuiaBHHa h ohhx TytjHX paca c koj'hm ce ct3hobhhiijtbo
OBHX 06âCTH y pa3HHM HCTOpHJCKHM BpeMeHHMa Meuia/io. y BehHHH npeoB/iatjyje o6nHaH ctcobchckh THn,
kojh ce OAîHKyje cpeAfcOM bc^hmmhom, bcnhkhm n;iehHMa, HJHpoKHM jiHueM h jaKHM jaroAHuaivia. IlopeA
obhx ocodHHa Ban<He cy K>HX0Be ncnxHHKe oco6nHe. TaKO
Ha npHMep mhhh ce Aa je obo CTanoBHHiiiTBO y BehHHH cyMopno, ca Maibe BeccrcocTH h xyMOpa, h Beoiwa
Gna6e 4>aHTa3HJe. y TOMe cy ohh npaBa npoTHBHOCT
CTaHOBHHiuTBy 3anaAHe MaKeAOHHJe, cneuwa^HO npH/iencKe OKOJiHHe, qnje je CTaHOBHHiUTBO no3HaTO 3(5or
CBOje AOceTJbHBOCTii h xyiwopa. Hncy 6hctph hh aocctJbHBH, a^H Cy jaKO H3Ap>KJbHBH. C OBHM OCodHHaMa
je y Be3H h to ilito H3rvieAajy qecTO BeoMa HenoBepJbHBH, Mo>KAa h ^ynaBH, h HHcy oco6hto npeAy3HM;bHBH. A/ih HHcy hcto TaKO npraBH, Kao uito cy qeiuhe Cp6n 3anaAHHx h ceBepo-3anaAHHX KpajeBa. IlopeA obhx oco6HHa, 0A3anaAHHx cpncKHx KpajeBa pa-
noBH
KaKO
TOPFbE nOBAPAAFJI
3/iHKyjy ce h
THMe
iiito
HeMajy encKHx necaivia, Hapowmo

/ihpckhx necaMa, Koje cy MecTO
jyHawKHX, Beh HMajy

rpy6e h BHiue ceH3ya/iHe.
XUHauiibe craHOBHHUJTBO y cTapo-cpf>njaHCKOM
UJon^yKy pa3HOBpcHorajenopeK.Ta. ripeMaôcaâmibHM
HcnHTHBaibHMa H3ivieaa na he HaJBehw aco AOce.beHor
CTaHOBHHUJTBa 6hth nopcK.ioM MaXOM H3 ueHTpa^HHX
cpncKHx o6/iacrH, napowHTO oa KocoBa, rn:baHCKe oko/iHHe Jla6a h H6pa, 3aTHM oa He6pa, a HMa hx kojh
Ka>Ky na cy nopeic/iOM oa E/i6acaHa. BepnBaTHO, to he
6hth floce/bemuiH H3 cpncKHx oa3a y Jy>KHOJ MaKehhjh, kojhx je y cpejubCM BeKy 6uno 3naTH0, h oa
hx cy cc HeKe caMyBa.ie HaK ao Aainc Hero t3ko
or Ba>KHOCTH je: H3 HCTopHJCKHx cnoMeHHKa 3Ha ce j\a cy
Cp6H PauiaHH or 12 ao 14 BeKa y 3HaTHHM MacaMa Hace.baBaHH no uchom LUon/iyKy, n to napoHHTO y crapocp6njancKH LLJon/iyK m y OKO/iHuy Co({)HJe
nopeA
obhx 611.10 je AOce.i>aB3iba ca Jyra h HcroKa, Hapoihto oa Be/ieuiKe h npn-aencKe o6;iacTH, 3aTHM hx je
6h/io on. Je^peHCKor Bn/iajeTa, or caMOKOBCKor h RynHHHKor npaja. nopcA obhx yce:baBaiba 6h.io je 3HaThhx HceâBaiba, iiaponHTO y BpaibCKy riMHiby, HhorciiiT, Ilo/baHHuy, CKopo Kpo3 ue/iy MopaBy, ;io KparyjeBa4Ke JleneHHue. Hcto TaKo HMa hx Bp/10 mhoto y
ByrapcKOJ, Ka.MO cy ce oacc;ih;ih noc/ie oc.ioooheiba
ByrapcKe.
;
H3 OBora
ce bhah Ra ce y obom cTaHOBHHUJTBy

pa3HOBpcnH
TparoBH n oco6hhc, kojh noKa3yjy
ocehajy
Ra je obo cTanoBHHUJTBO 3ace6He eTHorpacfKKe kom-
no3nunje. Mhc/ih ce #a jc on.ie 6h/io iipbo6htho crahobhhujibo KOJe je H3auuiO M3 yKpiuTan>a C/iOBena,
neneibera, ca Ky.vamiMa 11 B/iaaiMa. A;ih cy na obo CTaHOBHHUJTBO KOJe je lipOH3HLU/10 H3 yKpiJJTaiba 3HaTHO
yTHua.in aoce.i.'jHHUH H3 3anaAHHX cpncKHx 06/iacTH, h
KY.nypH Aa
to jc cTanoBHHiuTBO y
>BHOJ
nac iiornyno cpncKO.
ILIo'i.iyKnpcACT.JB.'ba jeiHny oG/iacrCKoncKC Crape
Cp6nje h MaKeAOHMje y kojoj ce jaan>ajy ccJia pa36njenoi BJiactiHCKor Tuna. Ta cy ce.ia pa36njetia naBHiue
rpyna i:oje ce iiuiaae o6hmho Ha
Hirna Koca h
HOBA CPBHJA
104
6peroBa h^h no crpaHaivia h>hxobhm. TaKBa ce;ia o6HqHO

3ay3HMajy Be^HKe npodopHJe, KauiTO no 8 no 10 km.
y npeqHHKy. Kyhe jenHe rpyne npnnajxajy MaxoM jeAhoj nopo^HUH. Kyhe y nojeAHHHM rpynaMa cy o6nqHo
36njeHe, h no TOMe ce Taj Tnn ce/ia 3HaTH0 pa3;iHKyje
on pa36njeHHx ce;ia y 3ana^HHM cpncKHM 3eMJbaMa,
HapoMHTO y lUyMazjHJH h GrapoM Bâxy.
3a nojaBy ce;ia BJiacHHCKor Tnna KapaKTepHcnmHe
cy ABe CTBapn, hto: pacnpocTpatt>eHbe OBor Tnna noayaapa ce y niaBHHM upTaMa c pacnpocrpatbetbeM rnvieHa
LLIonn h LLloncKO .npyro, MaxoM y CBHMa npoMaTpahhm cjiyqajeBHMa OBa cy ce;ia HaêHa y KpHcrajiacroM,
rpaHHTHOM h M;iai)eM epynTHBHOM 3eMJbHuiTy Koje je
HcnpeceuaHO hccthm AyooKHM AOJiHHaMa, hjih cy y n>eMy
qecTH caMOda^HH h H3o;iOBaHH o6^huh, Kao epynTHBHe
Kyne h njione. 3anaAHa rpaHnua oBora Tnna cejia nê
y râBHOM BeHueM n;iaHHHe PyJHa, owax hcto^ho on
npeuieBCKO-KyiviaHOBCKe yAOJbHHe. On Mempua h KyMaHOBa CKpeHe npeMa jyroncroKy, npeceua IlqHiby
H3Ha^ LLIynjber KaMeHa, na 3aTHM Hê pa3BolieM H3Meijy nnHHê h BperajiHHue, Ha n/iaHHHe UpHH Bpx h
fljiaBHuy, jy>KHO on KpaTOBa
on lUynjber KaMeHa no
nâBHue rpaHHua je HMajia y rviaBHOM npaBau hctok3ana^, 3aTHM CKpehe jyroncTOKy, h xBaia ce roptt>e
Bpera^HHue Kon cejia Tpqe, TaKO na ce;ia uejie OcoroBHj'e h n/iaHHHCKHx Ae;iOBa FlnjaHua npHnaâjy BJiaCHHCKOMe THny, noK cy y ocra;iOM flHJaHuy h Majiemy
ce;ia paspeijenor h 36Hj'eHor THna. B/iacnHCKH THn cejia
npeâ3H dyrapcKy rpaHHuy h pacnopeêH je no hyctchah/ickom KpaJHUJTy h 3HaTHOM Aeviy 3Henojba. y
Cp6HJn cy BJiacHHCKora THiia BHma ce;ia Bpan.cKe IlHHike
h CBa ceâ y oiHBy B/iacHHe no ;iy>KHHHKe KOT/iHHe,
y Kojoj ce H3BpuiH npe;ia3 y ce;ia 36njeHora THna.
3ana#H0 on, OBe o6/iacni jaB/bajy ce #Ba THna
ce/ia, h to THn 36hjchhx hjih ckouckux cejia, h humjiyKKiix cejia. 06a THna jaBJbajy ce no ue;ioj CKoncKOJ
kotjihhh, y aojihhh MapKOBe PeKe h Ha Obmcm rio;by.
IlpBH je THn MHoro neiuhH. HaJTHnnqHHJe je pa3BHj'eH
y CKoncKoj UpHOJ TopH. Ta cy ce.rca o6j\\\K2l hjih OKpyr/iacror hjih AyryjbacTor. y i^HMa o6hhho HMajy nê
;
rop*t>E
105
noBAPAAPJE
Me^y co6om ceKy. Ha pacKpuihy

thx ABajy y/iHua HMa o6hhho npa3aH npocTop, kojh
ce 30Be zyeno (y nHpOTCKOM Kpajy h y Jy>KHOJ Maneaohhjh cpedceAo). Kyhe cy cacBHM yipnaHe h 36HJeHe
je^Ha ao Apyre, h.th H3a jeAHe HH>Ke bhph HenocpeAHO
KpoB Apyre, bhujc
y MHT/iym<HM cciHMa Kyhe cy rpynncaHe oko 6eroBCKe Kyê. OHe Mory 6hth nopetjaHe y HH30Be c o6e
dpaHe 6eroBCKe Ky/ie, c jiHueM OKpeHyTHM yHyipa, Tano
Aa cno^.a CBe HHHe jeaaH 3ha, h.ih Mory 6hth pa36auaHe oko 6eroBCKe Ky;ie. y noc/ieAêM c/iyqajy, Kyhe
cy MaxoM orpaijeHe 3HAOBHMa on hepnHHa. flyTeBH HAy
o6hhho H3a obhx ce;ia h;ih nopeA HdHx, a BeoMa peTKo
Kpo3 ibHx. y cpeAHHH hhtvihhkhx ce/ia cy Be/IHKe, abocnpaTHe 6e;ie 6eroBCKe Kyhe. CacToje ce o6hhho H3
rviaBHe y/iHue Koje ce
oê.êiba 3a MyiUKe hjih ce.iciMjyKci, h xapeM.iyKa, OAeOko h>hx cy Apyre 3rpaAe 3a

XapeM^yK Hecro MO>Ke npeadaBâTH h 3ace6Ha 3rpaAa. Taaa y3a ib HMa Be;iHKa
6aiuTa, y Kojy ce H3 xapeM^yKa MO>Ke HenocpeAHO
HhH, a ca cbhx dpaHa je orpatjeHa bhcokhm 3haom oa
hepnHMa, KaKo 6h >KeHe 6n/ie 3aK;ioH>eHe on noivieAa
crpaHMeBa.
TunoBH ceocicux teyha HHcy y AOBOJbHoj MepH
HcnHTauH. Je^HHo y CKoncKOj UpHoj TopH HMaMO Aera i>HHJe HcnHTany ceocKy Kyhy. Ona ce y online oa.iHKyje bcihkhm AHMCH3HJaMa, HapoMHTO cy pa3BHJeHe
;beiba 3a >KeHe h Aeuy.
nocayry, Koibe h >khto.
y xopH30HTa^H; HMa hx
06e Bpde
byuia h (iaociipaiTiHUna.
u;
cy 3HAaHe
oa HeoTecanor KaMen>a h/ih hepnn'ia, h CKopo CBaKa je 3HAOM on hepriHqa orpaljeHa.

KpoBOBH cy oa npyha, a Mory 6hth noKpHBemi CJULUOU
aacKOM h iicpnnqeM. ZlBocnpaTHHue Mory 6hth ue/ie
t
na ABa cnpaia, aKO cy Ha iiiibene na paBHy 3eM^.HUJTy,

h/ih MO>Ke caMO jeân Aeo 6hth Ha ABa cnpaia a Apyni
aeo na jeAan cnpaT, aKO je Ha crpMenHTy jeM.bHUJTy. Ha
roptbeM cupary HMajy peAOBHO Tpn npocropHJe
Kyu
xHH.a (Kyha ), wapAaK h OAaja. MapjaK npeAcraBâ
ca crpaHa omopeH AOKcaT kojh ce uciom crpaHOM
ropnera cnpaia npywa. Kyha' mo>kc 6hth nperpafyena,
H ouna ce y jeAHOM Ae/iy Kyna Ha onbniiiTy. a y Apyi
HOBA CPBHJA
106
roMe, kojh ce Ta.ua 30Be nnonnHJia", HohHBa CTOKa, y

AOtbeivi cnpaTy je ulpeM, y KOMe ce ap>kh Mpc, nnhe,
KOBMe3H c pyBOM, h 3eMJbopaAHHqKe cnpaBe; KaTKa^
je nperpatjeH, h OHâ y ApyroM jieny HohHBa CTOKa.
npH3eM^>yiue HMajy yHyrpaiiitbH pacnopca. hcth Kao h
ropibH cnpaT ^BoenpaTHHue.
y orpaêHOM ABopHiirry je zyeno, h eypna (x;ie6Ha neh). Oko obhx Kyha HMa Maô 3rpaâ. HaJBa>KaM6ap, koui 3a KyKypy3, n;ieMH>a 3a CTOHHy
HHJe cy
xpaHy, roBeAapHHK h KOHHHa. Hapo^HTe 3rpa^Hue y
UpHOJ TopH cy deeojcmue 3Zpaduu,e, y Kojwvia AeBOJKe
jxpme cBoje CTBapn, h y KoJHMa cnaBajy.
y HHCKHM KOTJIHHaMa, 3aTHM Ha Obhcm flojby,
Kyhe cy MHoro je^HOCTaBHHJe, Man>e, noKpuBeHe Kpobhhom, jeAHoenpaTHe h je/uiohejiHHHe.
:
BapouiH TopHber noeap/iapja.

1.
CKOiuse.
ceBeposana^Hoj hbhuh CKoncKe

KoT^HHe, c o6e CTpaHe ;wiHHe BapAapa, Koja je Ha
tom MecTy oko 2 KHîOMeTpa niHpOKa. BehH #eo CKonjba
Haâ3H ce na jieBOj o6a/iH Bapâpa, a MatbH Ha AecHOJ,
HcnoA njiaHHHe Bo^Ha. JXecun #eo BapouiH ce HajiasH
Ha noc.aeAtfcHM orpaHUHMa UpHe Tope, a jicbh je Ha
HaJHH>KOJ BapâpcKOj TepacH. I"IoJiO)Kaj CKonjba oapeKoje npoce\)eu je npaBUHMa MHoro6pojHHx AOJiHHa
CKoncKy
MacHBe
h
njiaHHHCKC
AOBOJxe
OKO^He
uajy
KoT/iHHy y AOjwp c MHoro6poJHHM o6âcTHMa. Hajnpe,
Nomina Bapâpa aoboah ra y Be3y c KOT/iHHaMa Cpejxê
h Jy>Kne MaKeAOHHj'e. HajropfbH ecr Bapziapa h npece^JiHue KanjipMH Bora3 AOBO#e ra y Be3y c hjioahhm
FIo/ioroM, a npeKO n>era h CBHMa >KynaMa HcnoA LLIape,
BHCTpe, ca c/ihbom peKe Pa^HKe h UpHor UpHMa. J\ojihhom peKe Tpeci<e OTBopeH je npHCTyn y 3aTBOpeHe
06/iacTH flopeH, Khhcbo, Konan h 3ajac. JXojihhsl JieneHua npo6HJa n/iaHHHCKH BeHau LLlap-nâHHHa UpHa
Topa w aobojxh CKoncny KoTJiHHy y Be3y c Kocobckom
CTapOM Cp6HJ0M h c ao^hhom Be;iHKor /IpHMa, Koja
Ha;ia3H
ce
Ha
lOPlbK nOBAPflAH-iK
10'
Crapy Cp6njy H3bo;ih Ha .laapaHCKO Mope. HH3HHckom .ihhhjom KyiviaHOBO Ayap/iapn Be3aHO je 3a npemeBCKO pa3BOê h 3a Romwy MopaBe. Ho/ihhom rimiê
h KpHBe 0iip>KaBaHa je Be3a ca TiycreHAn/ioM h Co4)hjom, a npeno OBMer flo/ba hujjih cy nyTOBH 3a
HcTOHHy h JyroncTOMHy MaKeÔHHJy, cneuHa/iHO 3a
o6;iacT CipyMe, 3a iJojpan h Cepe3. Ba>KHOCT CKonâ
je AaK.ie y TOMe luto ce Ha/ia3H na H3â3y MHorHx
pewHHx AO/iHHa h Ha pacKpcHHUH Ba>KHHx nyTeBa.
y CKon:by pa3/iHKyjeMO ;iBa Ae/ia, h to jeâH c
AecHe a Apyrn c /ieBe dpaHe Bapâpa. leBH neo je

BHiuH a êcHH hh>kh
npBH je Ha je^HOM 6pery koj'h
ce H3Ha ao.ihhc H>Ke oko 50 m., a apyrn je y paBhhuh. Ha caMOj* ceBepo3ana#HOJ hbhuh cnoMeHyior
6pera je HyiuaHOB Tpa^, kojh je ujththo y.na3e y ro.iHHe JleneHiia, Bapâpa h TpecKe. H3 OBora ca bhah
#a je no;io>Kaj CKonjba Kao h MHorHx Haiunx HajcraPhjhx Bapo.LH 6ho ycnoBJben crpaTernjcKOM Ba>KHOLiihy
OHora MecTa Ha KOMe je HaMHiben.
TâBHH Reo BapouiH je Ha ;ieBOj ooa/.H Bapjjapa.
Thm rqjiom npoTime peMHua CepaBa, Koja je BehHM
AC/iom noKpuBeHa h c/iy>KH Kao npHpo^HH KaHa;iH3aTop.
y TOMe cy ae/iy HajcrapHJe rpaêBHHe, Koje cy ocra;ie
noc/ie no>Kapa or 1689. Ty cy pa3HH tbpao 3HâHH
xaHOBH, Kao KanaH Xan, Cy.TH XaH, KjyTy6 XaHe. KypiiiyM/iH XaH h MHore uaMHje.
3a KjyTy6 XaHe npnna
ce r2l je y ibeMy HeKa^ 6n/ia 6n6;iHOTeKa. y To\ie
ae/iy BapoiuH je h Be;MciUaH, kojh ce He Mowe ycnopetjHBaTH hh c ohhm y Co/iyny. na hh c ohhm y CapajeBy, a:iH kojh, 3a CBaKor OHora ko npBH nyT H3
Cp6nje 0/ia3H Ha OpneHT, npe/icTaB;ba npaBy 3HaMeHHTOCT.
To je cK;ion or tcchhx, pa3HOBpcHo H3yKpujTahhx y/iHua, noKpHBeHH.x kpobom or AacKe, y KOJHMa
;
cy AyhaHH
c pa3HOBpcHOM podoM h MnoroGpoJHe 3apaiiHOHHue. y Be3HcraHy HMa CKopo cbhx

ohhx pa^fba Koje y TOMe Kpajy iioctojc Ty Iictc Hahn
cbc 3anaTe h cbc paAH.e, h cbc lijto ce iicmc h KyBa
h 3a jeacibe npoâje. Pa;ube luy h ujapeHo h Memobhto h no rpynaMa, a/iH 6e3 peaa h utcreMa.
i>
HaT/iHJCKe
HOBA CPBHJA
108
HeTe nahH Ka3aHUHJe, kojh npaBe Ka3aHe h /iene MaHrane no ôpMaMa Bor 3Ha oa Kojera Ao6a Hacnefyehhm, a h HOBora BpeiweHa TeHeheunje, kojh npaBe h
njiexaHe (frypyHe, TaKO no 3^y qyBeHe koa Hac. Ty heTe
Hahn MaflH(J)aKTypy HCTOMHy, OHy HOBy h npOMeHjbHBy,
CBaKe roAHHe h CBaKH qac ApyKHHj'y; OBy BaJKaAainiby,
crapy h HenpoMeHjbHBy, ca bcmhthm Mycipaivia h 60jaMa n>eHe hniaJKe, inaMajiaue, Kymnje, maMHJe h t. aOHaMo heTe Hahn nyuiKapa, kojh Beh MejiaHxojiHHHo
rvieAa cboj 3aHaT, h OBAe crpaniHO noTHCHyT chjihom
(J)a6pHKauHJOM h ycaBpiHaBaibeM BojeBaBba h opy>KJa;
OBaMO KyjyHUHJy rê join nêTe CBOJe (})HJiHrpaHCKe
paztOBe no MycTpaMa 3a Koje oh h He aiyTH Aa cy
MO)KAa oa CTapnx JejiHHa OHaMo oneT Tep3HJy h yKpaj
tt>era 6oraTO H3Be3ene KOMaAe pyxa ap6aHaniKor, oneT
ca BaJKaAauiHDHM KpojeM, HaKHTOM h uiapaMa ohhx
hcthx MoniBa Koje Ha;ia3HTe h y (pHJinrpaHCKHM nocÔBHMa KyjyHUHJCKHM, h qaK y nocjiOBHMa 3HAapa hjih
pe3ana Ha KyhaMa, Ha apbchhm pe3apHJaMa, y ko^hko
to caMo MaTepHJa^ Aonyuna, h Ha pa3HHM cnoMeHHUHMa. H3paAa 6pHTaBa qyBeHa je jaKO y CKonjby, h
HdOm ce 6aBe hckojihko paAH>H H3Metjy rpaAa h crape
fcynpnje H3BaH Be3HCTaHa. PaAH>a HOBa h dapa, H3B03Ha h yB03Ha, dpaHa h AOMaha, ceocKa h BapouiKa,
*OBAe ce y nyAHOJ MeujaBHHH yKpuiTa h AOAHpyje. H
Ty je jom BpeBa, JiapMa, Jiyna 3aHaTa, rypaH>e, noTHCKHBaHDe, noraâtbe." (C. HoBaKOBHh, C MopaBe Ha
BapAap" c-63 64) y 6jih3hhh Be3HCTaHa je qyBeHH
;
KypiuyMAii-XaH. To je ABoenpaTHa, BeoMa npocTpaHa

srpaAa, Ae6ejinx 3HAOBa, 3HAaHa oa TecaHa KaMeHa,
ca MHoro cBOAOBa, h hcko^hko 6a;iKOHa oa TecaHa
KaMeHa. CBe cy co6e Ha cboa ca3HAaHe, a 3rpaAa je
6n.na oôbom noKpHBeHa. ZlBopHuiTe My je KajiApMH*
caHo, a Ha cpeAHHH je 6ho meApBaH (boaockok)*
y AOhbeMjfcnpaTy cy 6une Mara3e, a y ropiteM
co6e 3a nyTHHKe, Oa 1878 nocrao je TaMHHua ko*
cobckot BHJiajeTa. CTapocT oBor 3Aan>a HHj'e aobojbho
HcnHTaHa. HeKH MHC/ie Aa je Ta 3rpaAa npeocrajia join
oa JycTHHHjaHa, Apyrn MHCJie Aa je to 3a BpeMe uapa
flyujaHa 6una KacapHa, a Tpehn TBpAe Aa je to Typ-
tOPlbE nOBAlUAIMi
100
cKa rpafjeBHua. Cnrypno jc caMO to Aa je Ta 3rpaâ

npeocra.ia H3a no>Kapa oa 1689 roAHHe.
y tomc jne.iy BapoiuH cy MHoro6poJHe i.ia.MHJe,
kojhx he y ue/iOM Cnon/by 6hth oko 26. JeAan oa
HaJ3HaMeHHTHJHX TypCKHX apXHTeKTOHCKHX cnoMeHHKa

jc Fa3H-Hca-6eroBa uaMHJa, Koja je rpaêHa Ha Meciy
HerâiUHDe upKBe cb.
ueôj rpal)H B/iaAa

ce
n noTnyHa cHMeipnja 6e3 HKaKBe norpeiuKe, Aa joj
'fooplja.
caMO ahbhth mokcmo" (C. HoBaKOBHh). 3nAaHa je TecaHHM je^HaKHM qeTBpiacTHM KaMeHOM. CBaKH KaMeH
y 3H^y onTonen je TpodpyKHM peAOM n/bocHaTe TaiiKe
ixurne ca iuhpokhm KaTOBHMa Ma^Tepa. TpaêHa je
AaKê c/ihhho nao iuto cy rpaljeHe MHore 3aAy>n6HHe
Haiunx cpeAHêBeKOBHHx B/iaAa/iaua. KpoB joj je oa
h H3 Aa/iena bhah. Oko ite je
CHMeTpHMHa, /ieno orpaljena aB-nnja, a npeA yâcKOM
je noA .nenHM khockom necMa, ca /ienoM Ba30M Ha cpe
Ahhii, H3 Koje H36HJa hcko^hko K.-byqeBa BOAC 3Ha*
MeHHTa je h BypMa/iH-I.IaMHj'a. To je npocipaHa qeo.ioBa, Koje ce 6ej\n
TBpiacTa 3rpajia, ca npocrpaHHM TpeMOM na CTy6oBHMa

y npeAH>eM neny; 3HAaHa MeTBpiacTHM jeAHaKHM KaMenoM, H3Mel)y Kora cy yMeTHym KBaApaTH oa uhivie h Ma^Tepa, TaKO na ueo
3ha HMa H3ivieA reoMeTpHJCKor M03aHKa, kojh mhhh npHJaiaH yTHcaK. Hapomhto bhcokhm MHHapeTOM OA.iHKyje ce Jaja-naiHHHa
uaMHJa. Ty je h caxaT-ny/ia oa upBeBe unr/ie, y o6;iHKy
3BOHHKa HMa ;ien H3rvieA. y ceAaMHaecroM BeKy nyThhuh cnoMHiby y CKon/by jeAHy ApBeny Ky/iy ca catom h 3bohom. To he BepoBamo 6hth OHa ny/ia 3a
Kojy XauH-Ka/iqba bcth Aa je H3 BpeMeHa HeBepHHKa.
He MO>ne ce AOKyqHTH na :ih AaHaujiba caxaT-Ky/ia HMa
KaKBe Be3e c tom apbchom Ky/iOM. 3a Me/ia-uaMHJy
roBopn ce Aa je naMHii.ena Ha Meciy upKBe Cb. BpaMCBa, a <a Cy/iTan-MypaTOBy jcahh Be/ie Aa je 6n:ia
upKBa Cb. BoropoAHue. a Apyrn Cb. rieipa. y MeAaMaMHJH HMa BOAa, Ha Kojy AO/ia3e CpnKHibe kojc
paljajy, h yMHuajy ce. y TOMe Ae/iy BapouiH je h upKBa
Cb. Cnaca. To je Ma/io, cno.'ba HeyrvieAHO h HeynycHo
3AaH>e, Ay6oKO yKonano y 3CM:i.y, <Gor iera HSTJieA*
Kao &a je y TypCKO BpeMe rpatyeno. yHyTpaujiboeT upKBe
;
110
HOBA CPBHJA
npeixcraBJba oho hjto je OA^HKOBajio

ocra/iHx.
To
je
OBy upKBy oa
yMeTHHHKH oa ApBeTa H3paijeHH o.iTap
h neBHHije.
y TOMe
Ae;iy BapoiiiH HMa BHiue uiexoBCKHx TeneT

xaMaMa, TpH npaBOcnaBHe h jeAHa KamnHHKa
KHJa,
upKBa. Kao h y CBaKOM Medy y KOMe >KHBe MyaiOMaHH,
h Ha nepn(j)epHJH CKonjba HMajy BejiHKe npocTopHj'e Koje
3ay3HMajy MycnoMaHCKa rpo6â. TaKBa jeAHa npocTOpHJa Ha;ia3H ce Ha ceBeponcTOHHOM Ae.ny BapouiH. Ty
cy rpo6jba pa3HHx TypcKHx jyHaKa kojh cy aiaBHO najiH
npH ocBajatby CKon/ba. Ha HaJBHineM 6pery je Typ6e
Ta3H-6a6e, 6apjaKTapa Typcne BOJCKe, kojh je nao Ha
TOMe Medy. Oa Ta3H-6a6e ao BapouiH Kaaty Aa HMa
ceâM rpodoBa, y KojHMa je caxpatbeHO ceAaM Be3Hpa
kojh cy na^H npn ocBajatby CKonjba, h kojh cy 36or
Tora nocTa^H ra3Hj'e" (nocBeheHH jyHaun).
Kao y CBHMa opneHTajiCKHM BapouiHMa, h OBAe
craHOBHHuiTBO >khbh noAeJbeHO no pa3HHM BepaMa. Oji
rpazja npeMa HCTOKy h ceBeponcTOKy, Ha noBHJapuy
6pera je TypcKa Maâ, H3Mel]y rpaAa h BapAapa je
JeBpejcKa Majia, a c AecHe CTpaHe BapAapa je 4>paHaqKa Majia, y kojoj CTaHyjy EBponjbaHH. ZloMahe
XpHIllhaHCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO (Cp6H, TpUH H UHHUapH)
}khbh c o6e CTpaHe BapAapa OHaj Aeo cpncKor craHOBHHUJTBa KOJH Ce 6aBH npeTe^KHO 3eMJb0paAH30M >KHBH
y nepH(J)epHJCKHM Maxa;iaMa, HapoqHTo y Maxa^H TonxaHH h Hanpy, a 6aurroBaHH >KHBe MaxoM Ha paBHHUH
nope# BapAapa. Ha nepn(})epHJH BapouiH cy unraHCKe
Ma/ie, a nocyieAH>e BapouiKe Kyhe npecTaB/bajy CTaHOBH
6ocaHCKHx h xepueroBaqKHx MyxauHpa.
Hobhjh jkhbot noHHFbe Aa ce pa3BHja Ha o6a;iaMa
BapAapa h y paBHHUH c JieBe CTpaHe BapAapa. Ty
je HajMOAepHHJH h Hajjienum Aeo BapouiH, kojh ce oa^HKyje hobhm MOAepHHM 3rpaAaMa h npaBHM yjiHuaMa.
Ha o6aâMa BapAapa cy noKa;iApMJbeHe h nonnoHaHe
y;wue Koje Cflyace 3a uieTH>y h Ha KojHMa nonHH>e CBe
BHuie Aa ce pa3BHJa cao6pahaj. HapoHHTy >khboct h
jienoTy CKonjby Aaje BapAap, kojh cbojhm npocrpa
HHM H 03HAaHHM KOpHTOM jypH 3HaTHOM 6p3HHOM.
Boja BOAe je 3e;ieHKacTa h dncTpa. Ha BapAapy cy
rOPtt>E nOBAPflAPJE
ABa MOda. JeAaH
je
1 1
crapH Ayuianos Mociu, kojh npej-
craB;ba joiu jeAHy CKoncKy apxHTeKTOHCKy 3HaMeHHTOCT.

H3HâH je na BHiue y BpiuaK CBeAenux onaHa, Met)y
KOJHMa je cpeAH>e HaJBHiue, TaKo Aa je moct y cpeAHHH
naJBHiuH, na ce OAaT/ie cnyuiTa npe.via o6e o6a.ie peKe.
Tope je moct noKa/iapM/beH. HBHue cy My HeKaA 6ane
orpaêHe no Mdap bhcokom orpaAOM oa TecaHor KaMeHa, a y cpeAHHH je 6ho weTBpTacT 6a;iKOH. y hoBHJe BpeMe moct je Ha Bpxy upoiuHpeH h Taj je 3ha
cpyiueH. Hobh moct je ApBeHe rpaê
McUXopuja.
CKon;be npcAcraB/ba jeAHy oa HajCTapwJHx BapoiHH y yHyTpatiihbocTH Ba/iKaHCKor Ilo.iyocTpBa. Kao Bapoui nocTojaô je join npe Hero cy PhmjbaHH ocbojh^h OBe 3eMA>e. HajcTapHJa cy My HMCHa
Scupi, Skupoi, Skopion, Skopia. Scupi ce npBH nyT
cnoMHR>y y IlTO/iOMeja h y IlaJTHHrepoBOJ Ta6;iH.
Joiu y noneTKy upyroi a BeKa CKynH cy 6h/ih pHMCKa
KO/iOHnja Hace/bena Hcny>KeHHM phmckhm BOJHHUHMa
H3 BHMHHaunyMa (naHaujH>er KocTOua). y ibHMa je pHMCKa K)7iTypa ocraBH/ia Be/iHKe TparoBe. Oa Cnyna cy
no.na3HAH 3HaMeHHTH ApyMOBH npeKO y/innjaHa (Jlnn;baHa Ha KocoBy) 3a Ila^MauHJy, y JIhxhha (Oxpha),
y Fle.iaroHHJy, y Be/ia3opy (Be/iecJ, y Hajcyc (Hhlu)
h Cep^HHy (Co<t>HJy). CKynH cy 6h;ih yKpaiueHH xpaMOBHMa, KynaTH/iHMa, 3rpaAaMa, a y &IH3HHH cy ce
.
pyAHwun
rBOwIja, 3/iaTa h McpMepa. Floc/ie

nocTajy rviaBHH rpaA
npec{)eKType .H-ipAaHHJe, h enncKoncKa pe3HAenuH<a. y
CTpaiiJHOM 3eM.bOTpecy oa 518 roAHHe CKynn 6hujc
cpaBibeHH ca 3eM/bOM.
y 6;iH3HHH CKOIlA>a pOAHO Ce BH3aHTHJCKH Uap
JycTHHHJan Ce.io y komc ce poaho 3Ba/io ce Taypncnja h.ih Taopecnja. y 6/ih3hhh Tora ce.ia Gho je rpaa
Be opnjaHH. HeKH MHC/ie Aa Taypncnjy Tpe6a Tpa>KHTH
HerAe y Aananjiboj TaopcKoj fOincypn h y ce.iy Taopy,
kojh ce na/iaje jyxoib oa KaiTianoBCKor Je3epa, n^Meljy
CKon.i>a h Be/ieca.
VHOie Aa no hmchy B<
pHJaHH h no hckhm ocraTHHwa oa CTapnna, Ta Mecra
Tpe6a Tpa>KHTH y AanaujibeM ceny BopAOBUHMa. JyCTHHHjaH je nopywene CKynH noAnrao h na.mao UX
Ha/ia3H;iH
KoHCTaHTHna
BeJiHKor CKynH
Hpym
112
HOBA CPBHJA
JyCTHHHJaHa ripHMa. BH3aHTHJCKH HCTOpHK npOKonHJe

OBaKO onHcyje Taj rpaA: HHJe JiaKo H36pojaTH 60>KaHCKe xpaMOBe, hhth ce Mory peHHMa onncaTH abopoBH BejiHKauia hh BejmqHHa ABopaHa, hh JienoTa Tp>KHiiJTa, hh y/mua, hh necivie, hh Kynamna, hh aomobh
c npoAaBHHuaMa. npocTO Aa Ka>KeM, Bapom je BejiHKa
h MHorojby,nHa h y CBeMy 6;iaroyroAHa, h TaKBa Aa
MO>Ke 6hth crojiHua CBeKO/iHKe OBe o6;iacTH". ITopeA
Tora JycTHHHj'aH je HanpaBHO HapOHHTy TpaoiHuy, y
Kojoj je 6hjio CMeuxreHO BHuie AyhaHa. T. CTOjaH HoBaKOBHh mhc^h Aa he to 6hth RamwibH KypuiyMJiH XaH,
y KOMe ce join y ceAaMHaecroM Be Ky npoAaBa;io h
KynoBaô.
Bpjio BepOBaTHO je Aa je JycTHHHJaHOBa rpaijeBHHa H HyBeHH CKOnCKH BOAOBOA, KOJHM Ce AOBOAH
Boâ H3 CKoncKe UpHe Tope, ABa h no caTa AaJieKo
oa CKonâ. Taj boaoboa cnoMHite ce Kpo3 aeo
cpeAfcH BeK. y hobom BeKy cnoMHfty ra CKOpo cbh
nyTHHUH kojh cy npouiJiH Kp03 CKonjbe. Taj boaoboa
HMa npeKO 100 CBOAOBa kojh cy bhcokh 3*25 m. Cry6obh h cboaobh rpaljeHH cy oa TBpAe qeTBpTacre uhje HaMeuiTeH KaHa;i 3a BOAy,
rvie, a 03ro Ha ft>HMa
0*80
h noKpHBeH.
kojh je DJHpeK
y cpeAHeBeKOBHOj Cp6HJH CKonjbe je 6hjio jeAaH
oa HaJ3HaMeHHTHJHx rpaAOBa, H3i7ieA CKonjba no3HaT HaM
je H3 pa3HHx HauiHx HCTOpHJCKHx cnoMeHHKa. Bapoiu
je 6nâ onacaHa 3KAHHaMa Ha KOJHMa je 6hjio BHuie
Ky/ia, Kao uito cy nHpra o6;ia" h nHpra BOAeHa".
Ha rpaACKHM KannjaMa 6n;ie cy orpoMHe Kannje, oa
kojhx cy HaJ3HaivieHHTHJe Be;iHKa BpaTa" h BOAeHa
BpaTa'. y ihemy je 6hjio h jeAHO yTBpêtfce, 3aTHM
MHoro upKaBa, naâqa (nanaTa) h ABopoBa. KaA cy ra
Cp6n roAHHe 1282 y3e;iH oa BH3aBTHHaua, craHOBHHiutbo My je 6h;io npeTe>KHO rpqKO. y jeAHOJ noBC/bH
KpaJi>a Mn^yTHHa H3 roAHHe 12991300, cnoMHtbe ce
orpoMHa MHo>KHHa rpqKHx (j)aMH/iHJa y CKonjby. H3
6e/ie>KaKa KaHTeKy3eHOBHx 3Ha ce Aa je jom roAHHe
1350, AaKê 70 roAHHa nouiTO cy ra Cp6n 3ay?.e;iH,
6h;io y FbeMy TaJHHX bh33hthjckhx npHcrajiHua. y neTpHaecTOM BeKy nocraAe <eAHa oa HaJBa>KHHJHx cpns
rOFHaE nOBAPAAPJE
113
ckhx BapoiiJH. Bho je pe3HêHUHja cpncKiix Kpa^>eBa

Ohh
h uapeBa, napoMHTO uapeBa flyiuaHa h Ypoiua
ra Ha3HBajy aiaBHH h MacHH uapcKH rpa^ CKon/be".
y ibeiviy ce ronHHe 1346 flyman KpyHHcao 3a cpncKor,
rpwKor h 6yrapci<or uapa. y ibeiviy je Here ro/iHHe
cpncKH MHTpono/iHT npor/iaujeH 3a cpncKor naTpnjapxa.
ToiiHHe 1349 ^p>Kao ce y CKon^y bc;ihkh ca6op Ha
KOMe je AOHeceH h H3paf)eH MyBeHH HyiuanoB 3aKOhhk. Obhm 3aKOHOM cy ypefjene CBe cpncKe 3eM/be,
o^pef)eHe cy BepcKe h hmobhhckc npH/iHKe, h oahoch
H3Mel)y noje^HHHx apynjTBeHHX K/iaca.
Ko/ihko je to 6no BamaH rpa^, bhzih ce Haj6o:be
no ohoj na>KFbH Kojy cy CKon/by noKâiba.iH npBH Typckh Cy^TaHn. J\ok joui HHcy 6h/ih ocbojh/ih Uapnrpafl,
CKonê ce CMaTpa.io je^HOM oa eBponcKHx TypcKHX
npecroHHua. TaKO, Ha npHMep, Cy/iTan Baja3HT p>Kao
je npecTOHHuy Mac y Je;ipenH.\ia, a Mac y CKon/by.
OjMax mhm ra ocBOJHLue, Typun noMeme KO/iOHH30BaTH
jo.iHHy Bapiiapa, h Ha npBOM Mecry o6paTHiue na>KFby
Ha CKon;be. TaKO y TOKy 14-or h 15-or BeKa TypuH
Hace^Hiue y CKon;by Be/iHKy MHO>KHiiy TypcKor craHOBHHUJTBa.
y neTHaecroM h mccHaecTOM Beny na CKon:baHckom Tpry Morauje ceo6nTH HajjeBTHHHJe h naj6o, be

cpncKo h Mal)apcKO po6;be. 3a TypcKor BpeMena, HaPomhto y LuecnaecTOM Beny, CKon:be je 6h/io HaJBche h
HaJ3HaMeHHTHJe uecTO y ynyTpaiuibocTH Ba.iKancKor no.lyocTpBa. y luecHaecTOM Beny paMyna.no ce ,ia y Ckoi:
H.via na 30 000 Kyha. TproBa.io ce nor.'iaBHTo KO>KaMa.
T
Objic cy ce ko>kc npenpaB.-ba.ie, H y on.iue 6H.ia je pa3BHjeHa KO>KapcKa HHAycTpnja. Ko>Ka, BocaK h apyre
Ira.iHj'y,
cnpoBHHC OAHocH/ie cy ce npeK
ja 3a
HapoMHTO 3a M/ictkc h AiiKotiy. y to Bpe.Mc na CKOnckom Tpry jaB;bajy ce h JeBpejn, kojh noMHiby KOHKypncaTH h MJieiaHHiia h Jly6poBManHM3. HyGpoBMann
cy TproBa/w bhhom. Bm/ih cy noKynona/w Miioro
Kojy cy 3aca.an^H Bnnorpa,iHMa h BolnbamiMa. Bmiorpaae cy hm o5pal)HBa/in cpncKH poooBH, Koje cy ohh
3a jeBTHHe HOBue 02 Typaxa KynoBa.in. V
:aeI
ctom BeKy CKon;be ce cnoMHibe Kao Miioro-foyAHa TpOBA
CPIIIJA
HOBA CPBHJA
114
roBHHCKa sapoiu. roAHHe 1604 panyHaô ce Aa y ibeMy

HMa 40.000 Kyha. y to BpeMe nopeA JeBpeja y Tprobhhh ce jaBJbajy h JepMeHH. CKonjbe je Taâ HMajio
/ien h >khb 6e3HdaH; npenpacaH ojiobom noKpHBeH KapaBaHcepaj y BaponiH h H3BaH BapoiiiH Jiene TproBe
OKHheHe zipBeTHMa MHore uaMnje; boaoboa; y-nnue
AacKaMa noKpHBeHe; ;iena HieTa/iHiUTa jany TBpljaBy
h râcoBHTy caxaTHy Ky/iy, HHJer ce 3BOHa 3Byun Ha
Aa;ieKO pa3êraxy no nuTOMOJ 3eênoj okojihhh. y Tptobhhckhm Be3aMa CTajaiue ca Co;iyHOM h Upaqeivi. Pa3TIHHHTe CHpOPHHe (ByHa H BHHO) H KOpAOBaH H3B03HJIH
cy ce y ilpaq, ao Kora cy KapaBaHH Ronasmu 3a neT
AaHa. HaMUH h Maê 6apKe nflOBJbaxy hh3 Bapjâp ao
Co/iyHa. y 6jih3hhh 6exy 6oraTH 3/iaTHH h cpe6pHH
pyAHHUH, a y rpa^y ce KOBauie HOBau." y tbeiviy je 6wj\o
Bp;io jeBTHHO ^HBeiH. CMaTpa;io ce Kao jeAHO oa HajUHBHJiH30BaHHJHx TypcKHx MecTa, H3 Kora cy H3aiU^H
MHorH TypCKH yqeHH jbyAH.
flocê OBor MHpHora pa3BHha, OBy HanpeAHy
Bapom npH Kpajy ceAaMHaecror BeKa 33acch BejiHKa
Hecpeha. ToAHHe 1689 AycrpHJaHUH ocBOJHiue oa Ty;
cy ce Typun noByKJin H3 hbera.

aycTpwjcKH renepa;i IIhko/iomhhh,
noujTO HapeAH Te ce Hajnpe CBe n3Hece H3 Bapoiun,
3ana;iH je ca cbhx CTpaHa, na ce nyH paAOCTH noByne
Kpo3 KaqaHHK y npH3peH, rAe ra nocjie AeceT AaHa
CTH>Ke Ka3Ha Bo>Kja. yMpe oa nyre. Oa 12.000 Kyha,
40 uaMHJa h 7 ao 8 bc/ihkhx xaHOBa, mije HHiuTa oera;io.
OBaj ânoMHCJieHH aKT flHKOflOMHHHJa ynponacTHO je
CKonjbe, h oho ce HHje moitio nonpaBHTH hh nocne
200 roAHHa. y ocaMHaecTOM Beny CKonjbe npeAcraBpai<a CKonjbe, noiiiTO
17 OKTo6pa
1689
jbame BeoMa ona/iy h Ma/ieny Bapom, Koja je TproBa/ia

KopAOBaHOM. HeKH ra naK cnoMHity caMO Kao npeHohHiHTe. FlpeA ibHM ce cnoMHibe jeAHa TBpljaBHua
Koja je qyBajia KapaBane kojh cy Kpo3a \h npo;ia3H;iH.
CBe ujto ce BHiue oamhhcmo y ACBeTHaecTH BeK, CKonjbe
ce CBe BHUje onopaB/ba;io. flyTHHUH H3 npBe no/iOBHHC
AeBeTHaedor Ha3HBajy ra H3 noqeTKa ocpeAibOM BaponiH. Amh Bye ra craB/ba Mel)y TypcKe TproBe Apyrora peAa. H3 ciinca aouhhjhx nyTHHKa bhah cc KaKo
HU'ibK IlOH.UUAl'.IE
115
CKon;be y 19 BeKy CBe BHiue Hanpeayje. Oa iue3AeceTHx h ceAaMêceTHX roAHHa npo n.ior BeKa no^Hibe
Harvio naiipcjOBaTH. HaponHTo je nowe/io HanpeAOBaTH
o;i KaKO je nanHibeHa >Ke/ie3Htfua h oa KaA je nocra.io
cpeAHime KOCOBCKor BH/iajeTa (1886 roAHHe.) CKon.be
ce y nocneAibe BpeMe TaKo pa3BHJa/io Aa je oho jxanac
je^Ha oa HaJBeiiHX H HaJBa>KHHJHx BapoiuH y yHyTpaniHjOCth flo.iyocTpBa. HapoHHTy he Ba>KHOCT ao6hth aKO
ce Be>Ke >Ke.ie3HHU0M ca 3ana#H0M MaKeAOHHjoM, Ha-
P0MHT0
AOAHHOM UpHOr UpHMa.
Ako ce AOBeê y Be3y 3HaiaH 6poj CTaHOBHHUJTBa

nojeaHHHx BapoiuH y Hoboj Cp6HJH ca ohiuthm Ky.ih npHBpeAHHM craibeM 3eM;be, BHAehe ce Aa
BC.iHHHHa BapojJH He npeAdaBJba H3pa>Kaj Ky.nypHor
h ckohomckot ciaiba 3eM/be. Y Crapoj Cp6nJH h MaKeAOHHJH BaponiH cy Hecpa3MepH0 BeAHKe, h npeMa
cbom Ky/nypHOM cratby h npeMa cranky cbojc okcthhc
Obc nojaBe ao.ia3e OTyAa luto cy ce CKopo CBe Bapouin y XIX BeKy nenpnpoAHO pa3BHJa;ie. HMa BHUje
pa3/iora 36or kojhx cy ce BapoiuH y nocae^fbe BpeMe
HapoMHTO jaKO pa3BHj'a.ie. Ha npBOM Meciy y3poK je
to ujto HMa 3HaTan Aeo Myc.iOMancKor cTaHuBHHiiiTBa
Koje >KHBe CKopo napa3HTCKH, oa npnxoAa HHT/iyKa.
Taj Aeo CTaHOBHHUJTBa. h to CKopo CBe MHT/iyK-cax iGnje, nacTanH.ie cy ce y BaponiHMa, h ry >KHBe CKopo
HHKaKO ne yqecTByjyhH y npHBpeAHOM >KHB0Ty BapoiuH,
hc paêliH HHUJTa h xpanehH ce oa npHXOAa Koje mm
AOHOce ibHxoBe MHcfwnje. Xlpyrn Aeo CTaHOBHHUJTBa
MHHC pa3H0BpCHH MyxaUHpH To Cy MyC/IOMaHCKH Hce;bCHHUH kojh ce AOce.'baBajy H3 ohhx oG/iacrH Koje
cy HeKaAa dn/ie TypcKe h kojc cy norna.ie noA ncKy
xpHiuhaHCKy ApwaBy. HaJBHiue hx HMa H3 AOcaAaibe
CpGnje, H3 DyrapcKe h H3 Bocne. Obo cTaHOBHHiiJTBO
npeAcraB.ba/io je OHaj ejieueoaT kojh je y TypcKe BapoujH yHOCHO HaJBHOie HeMupa h ncpeâ, n kojh je
npeMa xpHiuhaiiHMa ca iyBao HaJBHiue Mpwibe. riope;i
ohhx iiahH he ce KaujTO y Bapo:iiHMa CTape Cp6nje h
no Koja ap6anaiiiKa (f)aMH/iHJa, 3aTHM Aocra AOce/beHHKa
H3 TypcKHx MaKeA r HCKnx ce.na. H Hi nOJOAHHHX 0(
TypHHM
HOBA CPEHJA
cth cpncKO-MycÔMaHCKor craHOBHHiUTa. CBe obo dahobhhiiitbo 6kjio je noji bcjiukhm yTHuajeM Typcne
nyjirype h TypCKorje3HKa. Myc/ioMaHCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO
CKopo CBHJy BapoiuH Crape Cp6Hj'e, a napOMHTO MaKcnoHHJe, pa3yMe h roBOpn TypcKH. Cbh cy npHMa;iH
TypcKH HawnH >KHBOTa, TypcKH nor/icn, Ha cbct, h Typckh cy oceha^H.
Ha hcth HaMHH na#a y ohh 3HaTan 6poj xpnuihaHCKor craHOBHMiJTBa i<oje >khbh y BapoiuHMa Crape
Cp6HJe. To je CTaHOBHHUJTBO ABOJaKor nopeK/ia. JeAHO cy TpuH H UnHuapH, kojh cy aolujih ca pa3HHx
dpaHa Ba^KaHCKor Ilo^yocTpBa h HacejiHJiH ce nao

TproBUH, hhhobhhuh, peiê Kao saHaT^Hj'e. ZIpyro je
cpncKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO, Koje je y bc/ihkoj BehHHH cnyqajeBa nopeKÔM H3 cyce^HHX ce;ia h;ih H3 6jih>khx
BapouiH. To cpncKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO MO>KeMO npeiwa HaHHHy 3aHHMaHDa noae/MTH y TpH rpyne. ripBy rpyny
MHHH OHO CTaHOBHHUJTBO KOJe Ce 6dBH BapOIHKHM Hahhhom paâ (TproBHHOM h 3aHaTHMa), a Apyry rpyny
hhhh CTaHOBHHUJTBO Koje 3aKyn./byje noje^HHe u>HBe y
okojihhh BapouiH,. cneuHa.HHo Ha o6aâMa Bapiiapa, h
Ha KOJHMa npoH3Bat3a HCKJbyquBO 3eên. To cy ohh
no3HaTH 6auiTOBaHH kojh >khbc CKopo HCKJbyqHBO Ha
nepH(J)epHJaMa Bapoiuu h o6pa3yjy 6aujTOBaHCKe Ma;ie.
Tpthy rpyny o6pa3yje CTaHOBHHUJTBO Koje ce HCKJbyHHBO 6aBH 3eMJbOpaAH>OM H )KHBH HCKJbyHHBO O 3eMJbOpajiibH. TaKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO )khbh HajBHUje y Ma^H TonxaHH h Hanpy. To CTaHOBHHUJTBO HMa MaxoM CBOJe jbHBe,
Koje ce Ha;ia3e o^Max no BapoiuH, h;ih y3HMa 3eMJby
Ha no/iOBHHy h TpehHHy oa CKoncKHx ara h 6eroBa.
>KHBH CKOpO HCKJbyHHBO CeOCKHM WHBOTOM, CaMO pa^H
3eMJby, cam a(J)HOH, nuieHHuy, KyKypy3 h #yBaH.
BaujTOBaHH >KHBe nope^BapAapa HaJBHine y JeHH-Maxa/iu h ra3H-MeHTaui-Maxa;iH. Obo^hko 3roMn/iaBaH>e
xpuuihaHCKor HCKjbyqHBO 3eM^>opaAHH iiKor h ceocKor
craHOBHHUJTBa y BapoiuHMa MO>Ke ce o6jacHHTH jcuhho
yTHuajeM HecurypHHX h necpeiêHux npu^HKa Koje cy
Bââê y obom jieny EBponcKe Typcne. CraHOBHHLUtbo je BeoMa MHoro 6e>Ka;io H3 ceâ, 3aTO ujto je y
roribi-:
noBAHjAivit
17
cy 6n/ia ce^HiuTa B/iacTH, momo >khBeTH 6e36c^HHJe h CHrypHHJe.

OBe rbq Bpcre BapouiKor craHOBHHUJTBa He pa3,iHKyjy ce caMO no 3aHHMaiby, Beh h no Hammy lienor )KHBOTa, napo^HTO no HaHHHy ue/ior KyhHer pana,
yHyTapibevi pacnopeziy h cnoJbaujtbeM H3rj\ejxy Kyhe.
y 3eM/bopa;iHHHKOJ KyhH pa3/iHKyjy ce TpH nena.
coKaKa
je Kyha, Koja je ;iHueM OKpeHyia o6hhho
On
yHyipa npeMa flBopy h h>hbh. Ha Kannjy, Koja je nopezi
Kyhe h/ih y caMOJ KyhH, je npocipaHa, BehHM ae/iOM npa3Ha npocTopnja Koja ce 30Be w ABop". Ta je npocropHJa
03HnaHa 3haom no 1 2 2 m. bhchhc ZlBop HHje noM
noên. hberoB cpeH>H h rviaBHH #eo 3ay3HMa n ryMH0
MecTO ce mccto ABopa ue/ia npocTopnja 30Be ryMHO.
BapoiiJHMa,
r\ae
no6njeH apBeHH CTynau 3a koj'h ce

Be>Ky KOibH Kan Bpxy. Taj arynau 30Be ce CTO>Kep'
y yrviy ^Bopa nope/i caMe Kyhe je a\i6ap" HawmbeH
on âcaKa h npyha h o6hhho na #Ba cnpaia. y noHoeM ce ^p>kh o6hmho >khto, a ropibH je OTBOpeH. On
HacpeA
ry.vina je
Bchhk AeHa (BacKpca) no jeceHH Ha aM6apy
ce Be4e-
paBa h cnaBa. Hajo,oFbH eo ABopa, koj'h H36nja Ha

3ay3HMa n/ieMiba a y kojoj ce #p>KH c/iaMa h no-
tbHBy,
ônpHBpe^HH
ITneMiba je CBa on n-neiepa, noKpHBeHa je cviaMOM, h Ha fboj cy ABOj'a Hacnpaiuna BpaTa,

kojhx jeAHa H3â3e y ABop a /ipyra y aB/injy.
CBaKa 3eM.bopaAHHMKa Kyha ap>kh croKy, h to HajMan>e Kpany, B0/ia h Marapua. Ohh kojh >KHBe Ha
caivioj nepn(j)epHJH Bapoiun H kojh HMajy BHiiie ibHBa,
npme h 6nB0/ia h neuiTO OBaua, on kojhx npoaajy
m/icko y BapoiiJH, 3a Marapua Ka>Ky na je to Heo6n iHo
3roAna h npaKTHMHa >KHB0THiba 3a npeHamatbe Ma/inx
TOBapa H3 ibHBe y Kyhy h o6paTno. By6pe Koje na^ne
CKynâ ce npeKo 3HMe na roMH/ie h ocraB/ba y aB/ihjh na ce o npo/iehy H3nece Ha ibHBy. CroKa HohHBa
-iom
y n/ieMibH h/ih y napowHTOJ 3rpaAH Koja ce
u
Iohzumo
on yniOBa y aBopy naMHHH h 30bc noH,nH/io
MOH<e npeACTaB.baTH h HapoHHTO o/ie;beH neo y Kyln
yHyTpaujibOCT 3eM;bopaAHHMKe Kyhe je ouaj. Cn>
ee y;ia3H y npocropnjy Koja ce 30Be n Tpevme*
Kora boac BpaTa y no/i3eM/be h/ih w BH36y\ y *Kyhy'
a;iaTH.
1 1
HOBA CPBHJA
(KyxHtba) h y conne". Y bh36h ce ap>kh bhho, paKHj'a, cHp, Meco h ;iaHa (Kynyc). y KyhH" je Ha no#y
3eMJbaH0 orHDHLUTe ca cbhx CTpaHa KaMeHHM njionaivia
onepBa>KeHO, a H3Ha,n; ttera o rpe#H bhch Bepyra".
Ha orHDHiiiTy ce peTKO jio>kh BaTpa, jcp cy upBa CKyna.
36or Tora Ha MaHrajiy pacnajbyjy hyMyp, h Ha Hêiviy
ce KyBa. X;ie6 neny y BaponiKOJ (J)ypyHH. OnbHurre
je AaHac 36or Tora H3ry6H/io CBOJy (})yHKUHJy, jep ce
Ha tt>eMy HHKa^ He jicokh. HnaK oho ce CKOpo y CBHMa
KyhaMa rpa^H TeK H3 HaBHKe. y yrviHMa cy KOB*ie3H y
KOJHMa ce MecH xjie6. Co6e cy HenonoljeHe, caMO je
conqe" H3Ha H36e nonoêHo h npeKpHBeHO MyTa4>om" (chbhm npocTHM hHJiHMOBHMa koj'h ce npaBe
MaxoM oa K03je RJiaKe). y je^HOM yniy je uunjiep c
jacTyuHMa. IlpH Bpxy 3Hfla oko uejie co6e je Majia
ApBeHa no^HHHua, pa(})", a y jeAHOM yr/iy je HKOHa.
CaMO je Ta co6a OKpeneHa; ocra/ie npocTOpHJe cy petê
OKpeneHe. Kan, ce xohe Aa cnaBa, OHâ ce no Henonoi)eHOM no^y npocrpe poro3, na no tbeiviy Hh^hm, a
no hH^HMy jiyuiQK. ripo3opH cy ôcra Be/iHKH, co6e
cy BHAHe, a Ha np030pHMa cy H3yKpniTaHH MajiH jxpbchh ^HpeHHhH kojh Tpe6a #a cnpene CBanora ko
6a Kpo3 npo30p xTeo aa npcape y co6y.
Kao uito ce bhah, 3eMJbopa,HHHHKa Kyha y CKonjby
canyBaâ je HCKjbyMHBO OHaj THn kojh je HMa;ia Ha
ce^y, a nopca, Tora npHMHJia je h Aocra BapouiKHx e;ieMeHaTa. H3Me^y 3eMJbopaAHHHKHx Kyha npo;ia3e MajiH
ycKH h KpHByâBH coKauH kojh ce CBaKH nac panBajy
h 3aBpuiyjy 3aTBOpeHHM yjiHijaivia, Koje ce y Bochh
30By w hop-coKauH".
CacBHM je ApyKMHJH THn Kyhe ocra;ior craHOBHHUITBa. H TprOBaHKH H 3aHaiVIHJCKH AeO CTaHOBHHuiTBa HMa hcth THn Kyhe H )KHBH CKOpO HCTHM Ha-
HHHOM >KHBOTa. y TOMe HHCaM MOraO HahH HHKaKBe

pa3/iHKe H3Metjy Kyha cpncKor, rpqKor h uHHuapcKor
CTaHOBHHUJTBa. Ueo >khbot npBo6HTHO ce o6pa30Bao
yr/ie/iaFbeM Ha TpKe h U,HHuape. H y TOMe nornejiy
jaBJbajy ce caMO pa3^HKe Koje ce h HHane BH,ne H3Me^y
6oraTHJer h CHpoMauiHHJer craHOBHHUJTBa. yTnuaj rpnKor h UHHuapcKor craHOBHHinTBa Ha BapoiiiKH jkhbot
119
ropibE noBAP/upjE
je Bp/IO Be/IHKH. y BehHHH Bapoiun HapOHHTO

Jy>KHe, 3anaHe h CpeAibe MaKeaoHHJe rpHKH je3HK
pa3y.Me ce h roBopH ce mhoto.
06HMHO
Kyhe xpHiuhaHCKe, HapoHHTO 6oraTHx xpniuhana,

He pa3.iHKyjy ce MHoro ojx Kyha MyoiOMaHCKHx. F.iaBna
pa3/iHKa je yTOMe luto cy npaBOcnaBHe Kyhe BHiue H3HeceHe Ha coKaK, a MyciOMaHCKe cy yHeceHe ynyipa.
Oko MycÔMaHCKHX Kyha BejiHKe npodopHJe cy ooa
6aujTaMa, kojhx y TaKO bc;ihkoj MepH HeMa y xpnui-
haHCKHM KyhaMa. ITopeA Tora xpnujhaHCKe Kyhe Meljyco6ho cy noBe3aHe KannunuHMa, TaKO aa ce Kyhe ueôr
je^Hor Maiher Kpaja Mory o6HhH KanHUHUHMa a Aa ce
He H3at)e Ha y/inuy. Kpo3 KannuHKe ce >KeHe Meljyco6ho nocehyiy, a y Be ie ce Kpo3 ibnx HAe Ha noce.na,
a MecTO cy Kpo3 KanHi,iHKe 6e>Ka.iH h caKpHBa/in ce
no^HTHMKH KpHBUH Koje je roHH;ia TypcKa B.iacT. y
xpHiuhaHCKy ce Kyhy y;ia3H Ha Be/iHKy KanHJy oa zpBda, Koja ce H3HyTpa 3aTBapa/ia Me/MMHHM TojaraMa
h.ih HapoMHTO jaKHM qe/iHHHHM KBaKaMa. Kp03 Kannjy
u
ce Hajnpe yê y npa3an npodop kojh ce 30Be ABop
y ABopy y pa3HHM yr/iOBHMa cy MyTBaK (Kyjua), 6ynap
u
h 6aBMa
BaBHOM ce Ha3HBa Ma.ia ao no.na Meipa
BHCOKa cocf)a uBeheM 3acat)ena. AB.inja je yBeK Ka.iapMHcana. TIpH y/ia3y y Kyhy, o6hmho c /ieBe dpane,
HMa npocTop kojh je ca crpaHe OTBopen. TaKO Aa je
H3HaA ibera ocraB/beH caMo TaBaH ropiber cnpaia. Taj
je Aeo noAe/beH na ,i,Ba Ae/ia.
JeAaH ociaje y HHBoy
aB^Hje, h oh je non/iowan, a Apyrn Aeo je ao Tpn neUHMeTpa y3AHrnyT oa 3eM.be h nonoljcn jc Aacu
npBH Aeo 30Be ce TpeM", a Apyrn cocJ)a u Ha cocjih
l
ce .neTH Bewcpa, a Mecro h cnasa.
H3 rpeMa
ce y/ia3H y
cpeAiby npocropHJy Aoiber Aoua, kojh ce 30Be ,Kyi
To je Aanac :.iaxo.M npa3an npocTop H n.Ma anauaj
Ijyapaha H3 Kora boac Bpara y pa3He cooe, kojhx
o6hmiio HMa bhujc. K'yxHiba mo>kc KaTKaA R
ic 11
Kyjua
ce
nporropuja
y caivioj KyfaH. Taaa
y jeAHOj oa
30Be jauaK u y jayaKy je onbHiiiTe hccucho y 3H

Mccto je cocf)a orpatjeiia caMHM npo3opHMa. Taaa ce
una 3obc
i.iaM.iyK".
yHyTpaLmboci co6a je OBaKa.
la jnpe ao Bpaia je
zieno 03HAana (Jiypyna oa hep.
.,
HOBA CPBHJA
120
iiHHa, BHcoKa oa noAa no KpoBa; OHa ce jioaoiJia H3

je^He co6e, a y Apyroj co6h 6ho je xaMaM. TaKBa neh
je 6una. yBeK OKpeneHa. Y3 neh je 6ho xaMaMiJHK", y
KOMe ce yMHBaô. Okojio npH 3H#0BHMa cy on âcana
HaHHH>eHH ,no;ianH", y Koje cy ce Meiaê cnaBahe
xajbHHe. Ha roptbeM cnpaTy H3HaA TpeMa h cocj)e je
ca dpaHe OTBOpeH npocrop kojh ce 30Be y CKonjby
ja3;iaK", a y TeTOBy qapiiaK". Ha ropfeeM cnpaTy
CBetuTeHHqKHX nyha necTO je 6wia h 3ace6Ha co6Hua
Koja je CBa 6wia yKpanieHa HKOHaMa. Ta codnua 3Bajia
ce napaK;iHC". y napaK/mcy ce CBeuneHHK mo;iho
Bory, HcnoBenao, HHTao mojihtbc xpHinhaHHMa, a necTO
h TypuHMa. CBe co6e h y AOtbeM h y ropn>eM cnpaTy
y KOJHMa ce cnaBajio 3Ba;ie cy ce npocTO co6e, a OHe
Koje cy 6n,7ie 3a npHMaibe 3Bajie cy ce odaje. V o#ajaiwa okojio CBa neinpn 3Hâ je MHHflepjryK. TaBaHHue
Ha co6aMa cy on MajiHX aaniHHua Koje cy TaKO nopeâHe #a iHHe o6/ihk 3Be3jxe, hjih ce y 06/iHKy cyHqeBHX
3paKa pa3Hâ3e H3 cpe/iHHe. OBaj ooVihk Kyha je BeoMa
CTap. EHi7ie3 BpayH, kojh je 1669 h 1670 roAHHe 6ho
y CKonjby, 3a/ia3HO je y noje^HHe CKoncne Kyhe h
onHcao hx. Oh hx OBaKO onncyje: 0;viHHHHJe cy Kyhe
3acTpie hH.iHMHMa, a TaBaHHue cy hm CByna HSAejbeHe
y Tpoyrvie, KBa^paie h pa3He Apyre o6;iHKe, na no3/iaheHe h Huiapane pa3HHM 6ojaMa. Ajih HHrê y mapaMa
HeMa HHKaKBe CJIHKe HH >KHBOTHH>e HH dH-JbKe". 1 06hhho
ce cnaBa Ha AyineuHMa kojh ce npocrpy no no^y. y
HOBHj'e BpeMe CBe BHiuenpeoBJiatjyjy .upBenHH rB03eHH
KpeBeTH. y AOtbeM cnpaTy cy y Hajcrapnje BpeMe 6n;ie
HapoMHTe npocTopnje3a KOft>e Kojecy ce 3Ba;iH axapH".
HouHHJe cy axapH nocrajiH 3ace6Ha 3rpaâ y ABopy.
y TaKHM npHAHKaMa o^Max H3Ha^ Kannje 6n.aa je no.HHrnyTa 3rpaâ 3a ccho y Kojy ce ca coKaKa ceHo y6a-
srpa/uma 3Ba;ia OTJiyKaHa".UHacHeMa

axapa hh OTJiyKaHa HHKaKO. Kao ihto ce bh#h, BehHHa
AaHaui?bHX CKoncKHX Kyha HMa mrnen ohhx Kyha KaKbhx je 6hjio y CBHMa BaponiHMa y Cp6nJH, h kojhx h
AaHac y bcjihkom 6pojy HMa Haj6oraTHJe Kyhe OBora
UHBajio, h Ta ce
C. HobakommIi, Ba^naHCKa mn-aita,
c.
84.
rOi'IbK
PIOBAPAAPJE
THna HMa.iH cy I'puw h UHHuapn. Kyhe cy rpanH/in

MajdopH H3 oKO^HHe He6pa.
Kyhe Mvc/ioMaHCKe HMajy CKopo hcth yHyTapibH
pacnope^. CaMo ce Ha;ia3e cbg y 6aujTaMa, kojc ce y
Hepcay OAp>KaBajy, a/in cy nyne 3e/ieHHJia h Ba3iiyxa.
Ymhhh/io mh ce Ra ce MycnoMaHCKe Kyhe y yHyipaiuFbOCTH MHOrO HHLUhe /Ip/KC HO XpHIuhaHCKC
KyManoBO
ce na.na3H Ha Meery rê KyManoBCKOiipenieBCKa yao/iHHa H3/ia3H y npocrpaHH 6aceH peKe

Hwmbe, H to na pacKpnjliy nyTCBa kojh Hay 3a flpe-
meBO, KpHBy ria/iaiiKy, KpaTOBO h CKon/be. Oho ce

Haâ3H Ha CTaBaMa KoTOJCKe h OnajcKe PeKe. Ojx OnajcKe PeKe OABaja ce npe/i BapouiH jenaH KpaK kojh
ce npoBOAH Kpo3 KywanoBO h kojh je CBe ro HaJHOBHJer BpeMCHa npe;iCTaB;bao r/iaBuy Boay y KyMaHOBy
Taj KpaK 30Be ce Baaa. Ha iboj HMa cejia.M soêHnua
H ibOMe ce HaBOAibaBajy cbc 6aujTC. Onaj neo rpaâ
Kpo3 kojh npo/ia3H Baaa o/viHKyje ce bcahkhm 3c;iehh.iom h Be^HKHM /ipBeheM Koje pade no 6aujTaMa
h ^BopHiuTHMa. Ojx roAHHe 1893 Ky.MaHOBO je roGujio
,ao6py Bo/iy, Koja je boaoboaom noBeaeHa H3 aTapa
BqrvuuU.
KjiHua je y KyManoBy oiuTpHJa no y Ckoh.
.icTihe BpyliHue cy OCTa 3naTHC, a/in cy amme x/iaAnohe, 36or jaKHx ceBepHiix BeTpoBa, HeoBnmio bcthkc
h necHOcne. Jlenbe hoIih h Beuepn cy necpa3\iepHO
XJiaAHe. Ta x/iajHoha AO/ia3H 36or 6/ih3Hhc Behux n.iaHUHa, cnenna/iHO Kapa-ZUra, a h 36or KyManoBCKOnpeujeBCKe yAO.iHue, kojom x/iajxnn ciBepiiH BeTpoBH
npo^Hpy y CôncKy Kor.iHuy, H 360T Tora ce KyMaHOBCKa K/iHMa ne CMarpa 3a naJ3ApaBiijy. KyManoBO
npeACTaB.âô oGhhho
je CBe ao noweTKa XIX BCKa
Behe ce.no, Kao ujto je caaa M/iaAO-HaropnuaHe. Taihh:
KBa c&lfl y to BpeMe npeiiCTaB.i.3.'i
KpiiBa Ila/iaiiKa, I'lbM/iane, <l>epn30BHh, u jxp. Jolii oko
-hjio cavio ,\
xpmiiti
KyMai
<aune
ckhx h ABaêceT u
laHCKHX Kyfaa.
ce/ia
HOBA CPBHJA
\L1
HMaô
650 Kyha, oa kojhx je 350 Kyha 6hjio xpnniliaHCKHx h 300 MycÔMaHCKHx. Hanac y KyMaHOBy HMa
12 469 cTaHOBHHKa. hberoBO craHOBHHUiTBO yMHO>KHJio
ce Heo6HMHO Harvio 3a 70 roAHHa. KyMaHOBO ce Ha;ia3H
y 6/ih3hhh CTapora }KerviHroBa, h oho je npHMH;io HeKaAaujti>H 3Hanaj }KerviHroBa. Ho npe cpncKO-TypcKHx paTOBa oa 1876 h 1878 roA-, y KyMaHOBy je 6h/io BHiiie
MyciHMaHa ho xpniuhaHa, a noc/ie thx paTOBa 6h/io je
BHme xpHmhaHa. FIoc;ie thx paTOBa 3y;iyMH HaA cpnckum ceocKHM cTaHOBHHuiTBOM nocra/in cy Behn, H OHO
ce noqe.no CBe BHme HacratbHBaTH no BapouiHMa
Kao Hy CBHMa TypcKHM BapoujHMa, y KyManosy
ce pa3/iHKyje xpniuhaHCKH h Myc/iHMaacKH êo rpaâ.
XpnujhaHH 3ay3HMajy ncroMHH, jyro-HCTOMHH h 3a.iaAHH
Aeo rpaâ, a MycaHMaHH ceBepHH h ceBepo-3aiuAHH,
a y 3anaAHOM jxeny Meuiajy ce ca xpHtnhaHHMa. Y/iHue
y TypCKOM Aejiy rpaâ cy ycKe h KpaTKe, a y cpncKOM
OHe cy npaBe h innpoKe. KyMaHOBO ce Ae/iH Ha 12
Maxaâ, oa kojhx cy Hajcrapnje Bapoui-Maxaâ, TeKe,
BapH6eroBa h BeAHHCKa Maxaâ. OHe cy ce nopeljajie
Ay>K Baê, Koja HAe ynopeAO ca OnajcKOM Pckom. H3Metjy thx, HajcTapnJH je Aeo rpaâ oHaj oko EcKH-IJaMHJe, y ueHTpy TypcKorAefla rpaâ. Hajcrapnje KyMaHOBCKe nopOAHue MO>Ke ce pehu Aa OBAe acHBe oa
npe 150200 roAHHa.
rioiHTO je TaKO cpa3MepH0 hobo MecTo, y KyMaHOBy Heiwa HHKaKBHx ocraTaKa oa CTapHHa. HMa caMo
neKO/iHKO 3HQMCHHTHX 3rpaAa. Oa thx cy HaJ3naMeHHje
THje OBe:
UpKBa
Ce.
HuKOAe y BapoiH-Maxa/in,
Koja
CTapa npeno 85 roAHHa; upKBa

pancKoj Maxa/iH, Koja je noAnrnyTa 1902 roAHHe.
EcKU-LâMU y OpTa-ByHap Maxa;iH, noja je noAHrHyTa
1751 ro^HHe; OHa HMa Tpn BeAHKa KydeTa h MHHape,
h OAîHKyje ce bckhkhm AHMeH3HJaMa; HMa BeAHKa hMahba, oa kojhx npHMa roAHnjfr>e oko 8.000 AHHapa.
H3 HCTor BpeMeHa je h CaxauL-Kyjia. Jenu-IJaMuja je
noAHTHyTa 1803. IlopeA Tora HMa ceâM iueKiija, oa
kojhx je HajBehy noAHrao LLIex UJepHCJ), nceêHHK H3
JlecKOBua. y 6ah3hhh EcKH-yaMHj'e je h XyhyMaT, cpe
CKa ABoenpaTHa 3rpaAa oa cna6or MaTepnjana, noAHje
Ce. Tpojuiê y Ka-
rHyia 1880 ro^HHe. BeAedu/e, to je Ma/ia ^BOcnpaTHa

oniUTHHCKa Kyha. flope/i Tora 6n/ia cy Tpn Tpra, a a'>
npe npaTKor BpeivieHa nocTojao je h y KyivianoBy 6e3HdaH. On jaBHHx npHBaTHHx 3rpajia HCTH^y ce xotc.t
Co/iyH h TpaH XoTe/i.
3aHaTH cy y KyMaHOBy npn/iHWHO pa3BHj'eHH H
CBe no naJHOBHJer BpeMeHa 6wj\w cy opraHH30BaHH y
ecHacJ)e. HajcTapHJH cy rpHMapCKH, a6ai,wjcKH, hypwHjCKH, CaMapMHJCKH, MyTaBUHJCKH H nOTKHBaHKH. On CTaPhjhx 3anaTa Hiviajy ecHaciKKe ype/i6e: hypqnjcKH,
nanyuHJCKH, MyTaBunjcKH, a6auHJCKH. Haj6o/be ce pa3bhoh HaJBHiue je pa3rpanaThypMHJCKH 3aHaT. Oh npe^craB/ba yjeiiHO h HajypeêHHJH ecHacJ). hberoBe ypeAê
cy najcaBpnieHHJe h HajopHrHHa/iHHJe, TaKO na oh npe^craB/ba HajyMe/iHHJH ecHacJ) y KyManoBy. 36or Tora
Ha JiHTHJaivia hypqnjcKH ecHacj) Hê npe/i CBHMa pythm. OBaj 3anaT npe 90 roAHHa nonemi cy Be/ienianH
y KyMaHOBO. Ho npe npaTKor BpeivieHa 6ho je y pyKaMa CTpaHaua, a caâ cy cbh npeiu/in y pyKC KyiviaHOBaua. Tiyp'iHje wviajy H CBOj'y 3ace6Hy 3rpajiy TiypMH-Xan y Ehack Maxa/in, y KOMe cy CByn y naoKO/io
noAHTHyTe hyp^HJCKe pa;ube. HMa hx 29. /iBopniiiTe
TiypwH-Xana je OKpyrvia o6;iHKa, y komc cy tByn y
HaoKO/io noAHTHyie hypMHJCKe pa/wonHiie h npoaaBiiHue.
MyTaBUHJCKH 3anaT hcto TaKO jc 3acTyn/ben, H\ia 19 pajXHOBHiia. MyTaBMHJe paê nonpoBue, Bpchc, Top6c, fincare, h to naJBHiue on K03je nnaKe. Ro ripe 20 roAnna
6ho je wyscH H nanyunjcKn 3anaT, kojh je caâ npeTBopen y .jiOHâypauHJCKH". H KyjyHUHJCKH 3aHaT cy y
KyiviaHOBo aohc.th Be/ieiuann, h to oko 1830 roAHHe.
KyManoBun cy no npe 40 ro/inna o6pal)HBa m caivio
/ihbcho h KOBano cpeupo. A on rana cy nowe.in
o6pahyjy h cpc6pHy >KHuy.

riope^ 3aHaTa, KyMaHOBHH ce 6aBc Aocra h km bopaAH>OM. CBaKH HMyhHHJH KyMaHOBau n\ia no hciijto
3HpaTHe 3eMA>e KOjy oopaljyje
muhmb hah apraTH.via. Kan AOMaha
HHAycrpifja pa BHjeHa je H3p
vkho
cyKHa, K.iaiiin.a hVih jupia
cc no ueAOM BaAKaHCKOM IIo/iyocrpBy.
TproBHHa je jaico
njeHa.
fapomw
I
HOBA CPBHJA
124
BHJeHa TproBHHa ca >khtom, ctokom h byhom. y okojihhh KyMaHOBa HeMa BHHorpaâ, a;iH je 3aTO qyBeH
onHj'yM H3 KyMaHOBCKe okojihhc Kao Ba>KHa >Ke;ie3HHHKa cTaHHua h Kao eKOHOMCKH ueHTap c^HBa TopHse
n^Htbe h KpHBe, KyMaHOBO he HMaTH BejiHKy 6yjiyhnocT.
3.
Be7iec.
Bejiec HMa oco6hth no;io}Kaj jiokh Ha yâcKy y

BejieuiKy K/wcypy, h to Ha o6eMa crpaHaivia Bapnapa,
Koje cy Be3aHe MOCTOBHMa, 36or qera cy ra Typun
Ha3Ba^H TiynpH.iH. Me^yTHM je crapH Bejiec, Beêc
:
BH3aHTHJCKe nepnoAe h 6yrapcKHx h cpncKnx BpeMeHa,

oho HeKO^HKO MHHyTa Ha HH)Ke, HH3 Bapnap, a Ha #aHauiHoe ce MecTO noTnyHO npeMecTHO y TypcKO BpeMe.
H ca/ja ce to MecTO 30Be CrapH Bejiec; H3HaA H>era
je Ka/ie, a ncnoA fr>era MapKOBa MexaHa.
ZJajbe on
Beêca jicbom o6a/ioM Bapaapa ao npecBeTe BHAe ce
TparoBH cTapor nyTa, a koa IlpecBeTe Hena Bp;io ciapa
KaJi/ipMa h pa3Ba^HHe upKBe o kojoj MHCJie Aa je HajCTapnja BeJiemKa upKBa. y Be;iecy caAa HMa no KhqeBy oko 15.624 craHOBHHKa, OioBeHa h Typana.
.
Bapoui H3Meijy ABejy KJincypa: TaBeêujKe; no TOMe oh BJiaAa BapAapcKOM

KOMyHHKauHJOM. Bejiec je y paHHJHM BpeMeHHMa 6ho
CTaHHua KHpnyHJCKor cao6pafcaja 3a OAMop Ha y/ia3y
h npn H3â3y H3 BapAapcKnx KJincypa. Ha TOMe
MecTy je OBMe riojbe OTBopeHO npeMa BapâpcKOJ
aojihhh, h Mopa koa Bcrceca Ha H>y H3;ia3HTH, a TaKo
hcto h cBa o6jislct Bpera/niHue. Ha AecHOJ o6a/iH
BapAapa cy OpH3apcKe BpaTHHue, h HSHMa boah npH;iencKH nyT. Ha Taj na^HH Bejiec je ueHTap h hbop y
komc ce BapAapcKa KOMyHHKaunja yKpiiiTa ca Ba>KHHM
KOMyHHKaunjaMa Koje BOAe npeMa HcTOKy h 3anaAy
oa Bcrceca. Ha tbHMa je pacnopeêH hh3 3HaTiiHX BapoiiiH i<ao ihto cy
KonaHe, LLIrnn, Bejiec h flpH/ien,
h Taj HH3 je CKopo y jeAHOJ jihhhjh, Koja je.ynpaBHa
Ha BapAap; pa3y\ie ce na je ibHXOB no;io>Kaj, ochm
Bejiec je
opci<e h
Aajbe
urmr.
ii\jDi\r,ir\rir.
Tora onuuer y3poKa. yoiOB/ben h ;ioi<a;iHHM npn.iHKaMa, Koje cmo 3a BehnHy thx Bapoiun paHHJe o6e/IOKH/IH.
Be/iec je Bp;io ciapo Mecro

noMHtte ce join
216 rojXHHe npe XpHda no;* hmchom Bn/ia30pa (ypa
Ha a^6aHCKOM je3HKy 3HaqH moct). Bn/ia3opa 6una je
HaJBehH rpaa y rieoHHJH. On HMeHa Bn/iasopa y cpe^H>eM Beny pa3Biio ce o6/ihk Be/iec (BsXsdd6q). Ch ce
npyn<ao 3ana;uiOM o6a/ioM Bapâpa, eceT MHHyTa jy>Khhjc cu ânaiuHDer Be.ieca, o Meiwy h ca^ CBeôqe ABe
pa3Ba;beHe upKBe, kojhx je no npeTepanoM npHqaity
Be.neiuaHa 6h/io no 36. Be/iec dapora BCKa 6ho je
na rpammvi MaKeÔHHJe h HapnanHJe.
O Be/iec cy ce OTHMa.in pa3Hii Hapo^H. On ZlapiiaHaua
ocbojh ra 216 npe XpncTa MahejOHCKH Kpajb
tl^n.inn III. PoiiHHe 168 npe Xpwcra 3aje^HO caMaheaohhjom no\)e non PnM/baHe h ocTaê y B/iacni hctoiHe pHMCKe uapeBHue no Kpaja êBeiora BeKa.
Kaâ
6yrapcKH B/ia,aaou.H, KopHcrehH ce cpncKOM necaoroM
h nouenaHOinhy, ocBOJHLue ManeiiOHHJy h ;ip>Kauje je
no nponacTH 6yrapcKe ap>KaBe 971. Uocne hcko^hko
ro^HHa nuroiue. ce npoTHB rpMKe B/iacTH MaheAOHUH,
npeABoijCHH cboj'hm jyHaMKHM uapeM CaMyH/iOM, h ochoBaiue napeBHny Koja je AonHpaâ no Ja^paHCKor h
Be.ior Mopa, h 3a hcko BpeMe h ByrapcKy 3axBaTa/ia.
floc/ie nponacTH iiaheAOHCice uapeBHue (1018 rem.)
AOinao je c ibOM h Be/iec non rpm<y B/iacr. Kan cy
3anaAH>auH ocbojh.ih rpm<o uapcTwo 1204, GyrapcKH
nap Ka/iojaH ynoTpe6n Ty npwimcy to 3aB.iaaa He
hom MaheAOHHJoif, a Mo>Ke 6hth h BenecoM, jop
6eiue y ibcroBoj B/iacrH h OxpH/i. rioc/ie norH6Hje
Ka/iojauoBe 1207 noKOi
>yrapcKor npecmna HêroB
cecrpHh Bopn.io, on MHjer HacHJba noooKe y Cp6njy
>pOMHp Crpea, Kojn je, join 3a >KHBOTa HeiiatbHHa,
:
KopHcr*
6opG
latbHHHM ocBajaihCM no
Kpcraoia H
xohhjh, AHrao
'H3anTiije h
ycraHaK y jyro-HCTomioM Kpajy MaKC/iomije

H nocrao HeroB
I
M ce
3anoi
HOBA CPBHJA
2b
hhk y CrpyMHUH. Ho .nouHHJe CTpe3 ce owe-me on

Tpna, ocbojh TBpH rpa FIpoceK, kojh je BJiazjao BapâpcKHM TecHaueM JleMHp-KannjoM, h H3a6pa oBaj rpafl
3a CBOj'y npeeTOHHuy. Ysanyji je rpnKH uap noKyinaBao #a ocbojh npoceK, c Tora ce H3MHpH ca CTpe30M h
yâê 3a h> CBojy yHyny no KhepH. KaA He3axB3jiHH CTpe3
oneT OTnaê ojx Tpna, obh ce H3MHpHiue c ByrapHMa
( 1 202 rofl.) Te oh 6h ociaBêH caMOM ce6H, He HMaê KyA,
Hero ce noKopH 6yrapcKOM uapy, h Beh 1206 ro^HHe
3anoBe#anje y FIpoceKy Ka.nojaHOB BOJBOâ LIlHUJMaH.
y to BpeMe BJiaAame y Cp6njn OreBaH HeMattHb, Ope30B Tena no npBOJ >KeHH. Oh BpJio Jieno npHMH Crpe3a,
kojh My npH6en<e oko 1208 ro#., no6paTH ce c HdHm
h naze My Bojcny Koja ocbojh HcTO^Hy MaheAOHHJy
cBe ao IlpoceKa, y KOJeM CTpe3 oneT HaMecra ceon
npecTO. Ojibbjiq je oh ynpaBJbao hcko^hko ro/jHHa
cbojom jipynaBOM, Kojoj je no cboj npwiHUH h Bejiec
npHnaâo, npH3HaBajyhn Ha^ co6om BpxoBHy BJiacr
deBaHy HeMaibHhy, a Kaâ je noKymao
ce o# tbera
OTpme, norn6e (1213) oa hckhx Be^HKauia kojh HHcy
xt&tih #a ce o^Bajajy oa CBOje 6pahe y Cp6njH.
floaie cmpth CTpe30Be, Beêc ôê y pyneToAopy KoMHeHy, Tana enupcKOM AecnoTy, a ojx 1222
uapy. no6eHBLUH h 3apo6HBimi 1230 ro^HHe uapa
Toôpa, kojh 6eme TacT Ta,naHbeM cpncKOM Kpajby PanocrcaBy, 6yrapcKH uap JoBaH AceH II ocbojh ue.ny
MaKeÔHHJy, âKê h Be/iec, a;iH ra Beh noc;iel6roAHHa noBpaTHuie Tpun, h ocrajje y h>hxoboj B/iacTH cse
jxo Kpajba CTeBaHa JleHaHCKor, kojh ra crajiHO npncaje^HHH Cp6nJH. 3a Bâê HymaHOBe ynpaBJbaiue Be.necoM
kojh Haiu apxnenHCKon XUhhjio Ha3HBa cJiaBhhm" rpa,aoM
3naMeHHTH êcnoT cpncKH JoBan
O^HBep, onyx >kchh CaMynâ HeMan>Hha, 6paTa ,flymaHOBa no ouy.
Ka# cy TypuH ocbojh^h MaKeAOHHJy, #oujao je
FbHxoBy
BâcT h Beêc, kojh ce noMaKao Heinro cey
BepHHj'e.
y ceâMHaecTOM BCKy iiOAHmyTa
y Be.iecy
BâAH'iancKa crojiHua, Koja ce h ânac obac na;ia3H.
je
unut MUDrtrMArJL
4.
IViaBHH jxto LUTHna je oko pene Xothhc, a MaMy ce nen>y y3 Tam^H-BaHp h y3 Xncap. flpo,ay>KaBa ce ro cacraBana Bpera;iHHue h Xgthhch rotobo ce cadaBHo ca Hobhm CeÔM, Koje je y onHcaHOj
K/incypn Bpera iHHue ojMax hcuor LLJTHna h ynpaBO
ite/OBO npearpatje. y oko/ihhh ce npHna Ra je y CTapo
BpeMe" LLlTHn 6ho iia Je>KeBy Llojby, ceBepHO or CBor
ânaujiber MecTa, h â ce 3Bao Je>KeB TpaA. IlpoTHBHo
obom HapcuHOM BepoBaihy, LUTHn ce y Bp/io paHHM
cnoMCHHuaMa noMHtbe. V hctophjh ce LLlTHn Bp.ao paHO
cnoMHFbe. y 111 BeKy noc/ie XpHCTa LUTHn ce 3Bao
AcTk6o h 6ho je je#an or HaJBa>KHHJHx rpaÔBa y
neoHCKOJ o6.nacTH. Bh33hthhuh cy ra 3Ba;iH Ctwioh
(It r.if-iof). BH3aHTHHUH cy ra y3e.iH or uapa Ca.\iyH.ia
roAHHe 1015. ByrapH cy ra y3e;iH or TpKa 3a Bpeiwe
uapa Ka.iojaHa. H3i7ieAa Ra. je h LLIrHn 6ho y ;ip>K3BH
6yrapcKor OAîeTHHKa Crpe3a h fla je HMao Hcry cyfl6nny Kao h Beaec. >Ha ce Ra cy ra C?6h y3e;iH noc/ie
Ben6y>KACKe 6nTKe. Ifjnvie je ynpaB.mo /lyiuaHOB ,a,ecnoT O.uiBep, a noc.ie nponacTH HyiuaiiOBa uapcTBa
h>hm je ynpaB/bao khc3 Kohctshthh. He 3Ha ce Kaâ
cy ra y3e/in Typun or Cp6a. Kpo3 CBa BpeMeHa y
cpeatbeM BeKy 6ho je cbc ro ceAaMHaedor Bena yTBpljeno MecTO Ha Xwcapy cy pa3B3/iHne cTapor rpaaa h
ABejy upnaBa Cb. JoBana KpcTHTCi.a h MeTpêceT MyMCHiiKa y Hobomc Ce^y je upKBa Cb. Cnaca, a no3naro je Ra je h obo 6h.io ceAHiiiTe Mopo3BHUJKe ennCKonnje, Koja ce y cpeaibeivi Beny npeMeujTaâ H3
Mopo3BH>KAa y Ma/iem, 3;ieT0B0 h Hobo Ce/io. Ochm
Tora no/io>Kaj LUTHna je or CTpaiernjcKe bs>khocth,
jep je on Ha y:i33y y no3Haiy K/iHcypy Bpera/wnue;
H to je noBOA H3 Kora 6h ce momo h3bccth rh je
janaiiiibH no.iowsj LLlTHna Be/iHKe cTapocm. Kao h
Miiore name Dapoinn, h LLlTHn cey cpeaibCM BCKy ac.tho
Ma rpa;i H no^rpalje; noc/ieaibe ce noK3TK3;i no rpMH33HBy 3Ba.io aMnopHJe. LLIthhcko noj.rpaê hm3.io
xa/ie
je
BHiiie
inr.ie.T.
ce.ia
ho
M3MeA Bapomn
ManacTHp
HOBA LPiiKJA
XnjienAap je y luthiickom noArpa^y HMao neAeceT cra1
coBa (HMaâ) noA BHHorpaAHMa.
OKO/iHHa UlTHna je cpeAfoe njiOAHOCTH. CeBepHO
HMa oko Bpera;iHHae npocrpaHHJa paBHHua,
BapoiuH
oa
ajm MecTHMHue 6apoBHTa. Oko thx 6âTnuiTa 3acejaH
je opH3, a no oucahhjhm MecTHMa KyKypy3, niuenHua
h MaK; nocjie^HDH ce Bp.no MHoro caAH, h hjthhckk
a4)H0H h iuajiaraHCKO Macô no3HaTH cy y MaKeAOHHJM
CMO^y oa Mana H3B03e noiviaBHTO y Co^yH h npoAajy
emviecKHM TproBUHMa. HnaK no njiOAHOCTH iHTnncKa
KOT^HHa H30CTaje MHoro H3a KonaHCKe h paAOBHiiiKe
KOTVlHHe.
LLlTHn
hhhh yracaK nene h Bp/io Be^HKe Bapoinn

TypCKor Tnna, cBaKOJano jeAHe oa HajjieniiiHX y obhm
KpajeBHMa. Oco6hto cy .nene MHoro6poJHeTypcKe abocnpaTHe Kyhe. CTaHOBHHiHTBO je y BehnHH cpncKO,
3aTHM TypcKO, a nopeA Tora HMa MHoro JeBpeja h UhraHa. JeBpeja HMa oko 800 Ayma, a;iH ce y HapuiHJn
Bp;io jai<o ocehajy. H ano cy Cp6n y litany y Bp/io He3HaTHOJ BehHHH, y okojihhh tberoBOj norâBHTO >KHBe
Jypyn,H. TaKO cy, Ha npHMep, H>HX0Ba CBa ce.na Ha 3apaBHH H3Mei]y IllTHna h PaAOBHnrra Koja ce 30Be JypyK/iyK h y kojoj HMa 26 hhcto jypyqKHx ce;ia, nopeA Apyrnx y KOJHMa cy noMewaHH ca Cp6nMa. Mel^yTHM je h caM LLlTHn y paHHJHM BpeMeHHMa CBe ao
XIX BeKa 6ho hhcto TypcKa hjih npeTe>KHO TypcKa Baponj. Oa noneTKa XIX Bena none/in cy ce Cp6H ca
ce.na y BeheM 6pojy AOcejbaBaTH Taj ce npouec HenpedaHO HacTaBJbao. H caA ce y IllTHny 3Hajy CTapHJe
h HOBHJe cpncKe nopoAnue Koje cy ca ce/ia AOcejbeHe.
HapoMHTO Hxje MHoro y hobom ce/iy, h oho ynpaBO
hhhh Aa LIlTHn HMa OHy He3HaTHy cpncny BehHHy.
Ha^>e je HecyMtbHBO Aa je npnpaniTaj koa Cp6a Behn
ho koa TypaKa. TypuH cy ocHa>KeHH MyxauwpHMa H3
ByrapcKe h Cp6nje kojh cy ce noc/ie paTOBa oa
1878 roAHHe y IllTHny HacraHHJiH.
.Ho paTOBa oa 1876 h 1878, h npe ho luto je ca;
bien,
c.
Jirêk,
Staat
und
iesellschaft
iin
mittelalterliclien Ser-
li.E
nOBAPAAHJL
129
rpaêHa BapâpcKa >Ke/ie3HHua, LUinn je 6ho jeaaH

on HeKo;iHKo Haj*Ba>KHHJHXTproBaMKHx ueHTapa MaKeÔHHJe h Crape Cp6nje. fc)cHM ue/iora c/iHBa Bpera/iHHue, HMao je jhkhx TproBaqKHx Be3a ca jy>KHOM Cp6hjom, napoHHTO BpatbeM h JlecKOBueM, 3aTHM ca
cyccAHHM KpajeBHMa ByrapcKe. Y ibeMy je oco6hto
6h.io pa3BHjeH0 KO>KapcTBO h H3B03H/io ce na XH.-ba.ne
KO)Ka or .iHCHua, KyHa, 3eMeBa, h t.A. Kazia je noc/ie
1878 r. H3ry6HO BC3y c ByrapcKOM h Jy>KHOM Cp6njom, h TproBMHa h OBaj KonapcKH pazi cy na/iH. hberoBy pa3BHTKy cMeiajy h ohh ceocH TproBH KaKBHx
HMa y 3/ieTOBy, Bhhhuh h Cb. Hhkojih. HnaK LLJTHn
HMa TproBaMKH 3Hanaj 3a hctomhc KpajeBe, Hapoqmo
3a Ma/ieiiJ, rhijanau h KoMaHcny KoiviHHy, 3aTHM 3a
OB'ie Flo/be h JlaKaBHuy. Oh je ynpaBO jouj jaK jioKa.THH TproBHHCKH ucHTap. Ca BapiiapcKOM Ô^HHOM
h h.chom >Ke.ae3HHMK0M npyroM LLlTHn HMa Tpn KOMyHHKnuHJe: LUTHncKO-Be/ieiHKH pyM, h /ioujHje nyTCBe
kojh BOe 3a KpuBO/iaK h Fpa/iCKO y TnKBeiuy. Thm
ce nyieBHMa H3B03e npOH3BO^H Bpera/iHHue, OBMer
rio:ba h Hoibe /laKaBHixe, a yB03e pa3H0BpcHH CTpaHH
ecnann. Be/ieiiJKH je /ipyM norviaBHTo 3a ko/ickh caoCpahaj, a Apyra ABa cy ca\io KapaBancKH nyieBH,
Bp.io /ioujh, a ochm Tora Mopajy ao >Keê3HHMKHX daHHua Bapâp Ha cKe/iaMa npeliH. A/ih /ieTH ce na Bap/iap ra3HTH, h naTOBapeHe Ma3re h Koibe npcBoê npeKO
H.era. Ha obhm nyieBHMa ce join bhah >khb KapaBanckh caoGpaiiaj, cpnajy ce noBopKe or KapaBaHa, nor/iaBHTO Ma3re, HaTOBapene tbokIjCm, caH^yuHMa neTpo/ieyMa H ecuanHMa. Ohh cy /ieTH hcto TaKO nocehenH nao h mTHiicKO-BeêujKH nyT, jep ce H>HMa Taâ
yoxce nhn, a npaliw cy, n KapaBancKH npeHOC je jeB-
THHHJH.
rCpBTOBO.
KpaTOBo cc iia.ia3H Ha ceBepHOM iie/iy no3naie

KpaTOBCKO-3/ieTOBCKC By.lKaHCKC OU/iaCTH, y Ô.'lHHH
HMKC PcKC, ]CRUe OR liaJBa)KHHJHX npHTOKa KpHBe
Bapotu je y tcchom o6/iyKy kojh je yoKBHi
..'
HOBA CPBHJA
130
peH orpaHUHMa oa JlHcua, 3aTiiM /leiuheM, ByKOBueM

h nâBHuoM. KaA ce nonHeMO Ha jcnaH oa obhx bhcoBa h norjieâMo o6;iyK kojh 3aiBapajy n;iaHHHe h
y KOMe jiokh KpaTOBO, BHAeheMo Aa ueo o6;iyK HMa
u3rneA jeAHor ByjinaHCKor Kpaiepa. H HecyMttHBo ce
KpaTOBO Ha/ia3H Ha Meciy 113 Kora cy HeKaAa H3
3eMa^CKHx Ay6nHa
KpaTep
H36Hj'a;ie ycHj'aHo-TeMHe ByjiKaHCKe
caA Ma;io ouneheH, a Ta6am<a

Pena ra je npope3a;ia y npasuy HCTOK-3anaA. Th npope3H cy Tano tcchh Aa He KBape odihth o6m\i< Kpaiepa.
BapoiiJKe i<yhe cy no Kocaivia H3Met)y peûnx japyra, y Bp;io ctpmhm no;io>KaJHMa, h Bp;io cy 36njeHe.
Te Koce cy Ay6oKO noTOUHMa pa3pHBeHe, TaKO Aa jc
qedo caodpahaj H3Metjy cyceAHHx waxaâ AOCTa hc3ronaH 36or Ay6oKnx japyra Koje ce Mopajy npe;ia3HTH. 36or OBaKor nojiconaja, cBaKH npncryn KpaTOBy
TeujKe cy hcto Tai<o h KOMyHHje HapOMHTO Te>KaK.
KauHJe H3Mel]y KpaTOBa h cyceAHHx MecTa. XU 6u ce
OAp>Ka;ie Be3e H3Met)y pasuHX jienoBa BapouiH, naHHHdChh cy npeKO japyra KaMeiiH moctobh ca jeAHHM bhCOKHM CBOAOM. CaMO THM y3aHHM MOCTOBHMa, npeKO
kojhx Ko;ia He Mory npehn, Be3aHH cy Meijyco6HO noje^HHH acjiobh KpaTOBa kojh ce Haâ3e no crpanaMa
CTpMnx Koca. y^Hue cy BHjyraBe h hccto TaKO crpMe
Aa je y3 thHx xeinKO hrh HeKe cy ynpaBO ycKe creneHHue H3Meijy ABa HH3a Kyha, h Te cy creneHHue
yceneHe y MeKine ByjiKancKe creHe. MecTH cy hopcoKauH. Kyhe cy y 6jih3hhh jeAHa ao Apyre, KauiTO jeAHa
Ha Apyry HaanoiteHe, h, y3a CTpaHe Koca nopeijaHe,
BHpe jeAHa H3HaA Apyre. YjiHue cy y hckojihko 6;ia>Ker
narH6a jeAHHo y TypcKOJ Maxa^H Cy^TaHa MypaTa.
H3HaA OBe Mace oa 36hjchhx BapouJKHx i<yha H3AH>Ky
ce MHora MHHapeTa h bmtkh ouaun TypcKnx Kyha, TaKO
Aa je KpaTOBO Bapom /iene nepcueKTHBe, Kojy joui
nojanaBa aM(j)HTeaTpa/iaH pacnopeA nojeAHHHX Bapoinkhx AeÔBa h Kyha.
He3roAHOM no/io>Kajy
KpaTOBO je AaKae y TaKO
Aa ce Bch no TOMe bhah A3 je jcahho 36or pyAapcTBa
momo na obom MecTy nocTaTH. H3rvieAa Aa je Ha obom
Mecry h/ih nerAe y oko/ihhh 6h;io jom phmcko pyMace.
Taj
je
ropibE noBAFUAp.ii-:
131
JnpHHeKy je hckh KpaTOBau noKa3HBao HoMHUHJaHOBC HOBue Kojn cy y BapoujH HalêHH. KpaTOBO ce npBH nyT noMrnte y MeipHaecroM
Beny, a Beh je y npBO TypcKO BpcMe 6h.io Ba>KHO
mgcto. Xaun Ka/i(J)a Hcrnqe 3.naTHe h cpe6pHe KpaTOB-
ziapcKO
naceê.
K.
CKe py^HHKe, h Be/in
cy ce ojx ibnx y npaTOBCKOJ

Ky3Hnun hobuh KOBa.iH. Taj pyâpcKH pa^ je h jxoixHHJe noc/ie ccaaMnacror Bena HacTaB:i>au, a/in y MaibHM
pa3MepHMa. Amu Bye je 3a6e/ie>KHO na KpaTOBCKH py/ihhuh ca;ip>Ke nor.naBUTO cpe6poBHTH ra/ieHHT y nopcf>npy. Th cy py;mnun 6oraTH. 1836 roAHHe cy y KpaTOBy 6n/ie ABe nehn. A Bye ce c6aBecTno na. ce on
400 0Ka ra/ieHHTa Ao6nja 200 OKa o/iOBa h 700 apaMa
cpe6pa." H npe 30 ao 40 roAHHa cy nojejxHHH c.na6H
npiuy 'iiMaqn Ba;in^H pyae no KpaTOBCKoj oko.ihhh na
Mnoro MCCTa Koja cmo Beh noMeHy.in.
jxa
BapouiHua
Kpitne Peice, Ha anco/r

!>
y KJiHcypH Kpi
M3 ocorOBCKHi
Ila/irnKa na.ia'in ce y ao.iwiH

r
oj
bhchhh oa 682 m. Ona je

v OBa npaBit npn H3:iacKy
;iTBopena h y n/iannne
Ay6oKO yByweiia Bapom, Koja ce Ty pa3BH/ia 36or HapoMHTiix cac6pahajHiix npiuiHKa H 36or >Ke.ne3nnx py^HHKa y 6.1H3HHH. Hi pom mia onaj H3IVI % KOJH HMajy
cBa MecTa Koja ce HaJiaae na crpMHM crpaHaMa pemnix
He AOJiHHe, rpaijene
Aonmia. Kyhe cy no crpanav
na.
je^na noBpx
na.iumnyje
jir
CBaKa Kyha na Taj naqnn Ma OTBoput nor.uu y pe my

/lo/ntny h na cynpOTHy CTpany peKo. .V TaKHM uapouniMa, npeima cy Kyhe 36njene He oceha ce OHa tci
it
CKo6a ii
paBHHUH.
KpuBa
Kao y 36HJeHHM
I
la.iaiiK.i
nace:i>nMa y
vpno wibao hbo
>na
Il.trvnua ;ia je Ty
je nojiirnyTa
ro/inne
ok
Hajnpe 6wio mbjio vTBpljen.c kojc je 'ivna.io
Kpoa K/iHcypy, h
je oko 1634 n
;a je oniicao
naiua. EanHJa "l
ro yTBljetbe, h cnomhm>c ;ta je Beh y to BpeMc nana \ rnplr
>HJI0
liUBA C.h'bHJA
800 Kyha, Koje cy 6me noKpuBCHe AacKOM h hepaMHaom. riopeA Tora y tboj je 6n;ia pa3BHJena >Ke;ie3Ha
MinycrpHJa h pyAapcrBo. Pyzte cy ce, H3rêâ, BaAH-ie
y aojihhh KpHBe PeKe, jep EBAtija 4e;ie6HJa Be;iH Aa
je Ba3Ayx y KpHBOj IlaâHUH npHJaTan, ajin boas hhjc
Ao6pa, jep npo/ia3H Kpo3 >Kene3He pyjxe. 3a ruianHHe
H3Metjy KpaTOBa h KpHBe fla/iaHKe Ka>Ke Aa cy nyHe
dape myMe, hhjh BpxoBH AOCTH>Ky He6ecHe BpxoBe,
a Ha H>HMa HMa >Ke;ie3HHx pyAa y toahkoj* ko/ihhhhh
Aa hm HeMa hh noêTKa hh Kpaja. y OBOMe npHKa3HBa^y HMa AaK/ie OHe no3Haie opHCHTa/iCKe npeiepahocth c kojom ce cpeTaMO h koa BH3anTHJCKHx nncaua
i<aA, Ha npHMep, onncyjy nojeAHiie BapoujH h ibHXOBa
6oracrBa.
7.
TeTOBO.
TeTOBO je y cpe^HHH kotahhc, noA orpaHKOM

LUape kojh ce 30Be ri/icma h kojh ce 33Bpuiyje 3apaBfceHHM 6pnom Ba;nene; y iberoBy 3ajiel)y je npodpaHa h Ao6po HacejbeHa AOAHHa TeTOBCKe BncTpnue
hjih FleHe. Ha bhchhh je or 430 ao 450 m., MaibHM acjiom
y paBHHUH, BehHM no crpaHaMa, uejio yoKBHpeHO BohtbaUHMa h BHuorpaAHMa. Bapom je TaKo 6oraTa H3BopcKOM
h TenyhoM boaom Aa ce c FbOMe Mory nopeAHTH caMO
BoAen, Bep h I-beryiu. MecMe cy MnorodpoJHe h bpao
jane. BncTpnua je pa3BeAeHa y MnorHM Baâivia Kpo3
CBe KpajeBe BapouiH h Kpo3 ABOpniura y CBaKoj ce Kyhn
nyje H<y6opeibe Bhctph'ihhhx BOAa, h CBaKa Kyha HMa
H3o6njba BOê; oco6hto je to cjiynaj ca xpninhaHCKHM
KpajeM HcnoA Ba/iTena, kojh je jaManHO yc/ieA Tora
pe-naTHBHO jhct. TeTOBO ce xBa/in Kao HaJ3ApaBHj'a
Bapoui obhx KpajeBa."
V FbeMy HMa 20.070 ciaHOBHHKa, oa kojhx bchHHy HHne TypuH h TypuH3HpaHH Ap6aHacn, a MaibHHy Cp6H.JoiH oko noÔBHHe 19 BCKaTeTOBCKa iapmHJa je 6n;ia noiviaBHTO MyxaMeAaHCKa, a TaKo h
mh(J)/ihuh TeTOBCKe Kotjihhc. Oa KaKO je nacTaJio 3a
rproBHHy h TeKOBHny 3roAHHJe h cvioGoAHHJe BpeMe,
xpHuihaHH cy ce nowe/in ckohomckh CBe BHine cua;
TOPhbE IIOBAPAAPJH
lOO
h totobo CBa BapoiiJKa TproBHHa npeni;ia je y

ibHxoBe pyKc, a h mhoth hhcJlihuh. Cbc no ceiiaMêceTHX rcuHHa 19 BeKa TproBHiia ce Kpeia/ia BHiue npeMa
CKaupy ho npeMa Co/iyny XaH (Albanesische Studien,
c. 105) je 3a6e/ie>KHO aa je CKaâpcKH H3B03 6ho oko
420.000 rpoiua (y neTpêceTHM ro^HHaMa 19 BeKa).
>khth,
8.
ap.
CacBHM
je jpyKqHJH TocTHBap, kojh je Ha cbom

Mecry y TypcKO BpeMe no^HrnyT, H3rvieiia,
oko MaHacTHpa Cb. HHMHTpuja, h Kao aa cy My upBH
cTaHOBHHUH 6hjih ccbaun ii3 oko/ihhx ce/ia. Oh je y
ropibeM ne;iy TeTOBCKe KoiviHHe, r\ne ce n/iaHHHCKe
kocc ziOMe npeâ3ehH y paBan, h npeacTaB/ba ueHTap
n.iaHHHCKHx KpajeBa kojh cy Ha 3ana^y h jyry oji
TeTOBCKe Kot/ihhc. y ibCMy iiMa 4387 ciaHOBHHKa,
Meljy KOJHMa je 300400 xpninhaHa, a ocia.io Typun
h TypuH3npann Ap6aHacn; iiMa h Ma/iH 6poj LLlKOApaHa,
kojh cy ziaTHHH, 3aTHM hcko/ihko B/iaujKHx nopozwua.
MapujHJa je Ma.ia. Cbh ayhanH on jipBeia no3Haia
TypcKa wapiunja. TproBHHa h 3anaTH cy y TypcKHM h
ap6aHauiKHM pyKaMa, caivio Bp.io Ma;io y cpncKHM h
B/ianiKHM. vloiij 1910 r., Ka^ je F. HbhjhH TaMO 6ho, obo
je 6Hâ apaMHJCKa Mapuinja, cacBHM HecHrypua, y kojoj
MecTo KpB naâ ii Mecro ce 3aTBapa oko Bapoiun cy
C/1060AHO KpcTapnîi ap6anaujKH KawauH, h CBa MapmHja, a Hapo iHTo oho Ma/10 xpHUjliana, 6h/ih cy y naJBCdpaxy. Kao Ilch m TuKOBHua, TocTHBap je cna;iao y Bapoui anapxHJe h Hacn.ba. \\3m\b3jih cy ga ce
ap6aHamKn KanauH, o6oraTHBiijn ce h/ichom, Hace/byjy
y IocTHBapy.
Cpc,iHUj;<j M'viropa nocraje cbc bhluc cc/jo It
m a 50 60 ;iyliana h kojc ce nocreneno y
apufii y KOJeM
lOUJHUy npeoGpaha. Ho UbhjhIicbhm o6aBeniren.nMa,
;iaiiauiibeM
1 1
Apuayni c iiliijto Ma.no Tyvthm no

hmi
*y y
nx cy 600 xpiiujhaiicKii
\p6anacn cy hobhjh
UH
rpajy OHHy May
;or.iaBHTO
paKa h C/ion-
hhum.
HOBA CPBHJA
134
npBeHCKo; HMa hx AocejbeHHx H3 ,He6pa, Kao uito cy

Kapa-BehnpOBUH h MexMeA-A/iHJHHH, 3aTHM H3 npnujTHHCKor ccrca T/iore, H3 ce.ia Ja>KHHua noA Jby6othhOxM, Kao uito cy Beiiia;mH h FIphujobuh, a H3 Maha
cy >KaT^njeBUH.
y Ckoikkoj
Crapoj Cp6nJH, napoHHTo y oko/ihhh

CKonvba h KyMaHOBa, caqyBami cy mhoth MaHacnipH
h upKBe kojh cy noAHrnyTH 3a Bpeivie HeMaibHhcKor
Bâiiatba y obhm KpajeBHMa. HapOMHTO je MHoro TaKHx
MaHacTHpa h upKaBa y CKoncKOj Upnoj TopH. Oa thx
upKaBa h MaHacTHpa hckh cy y pa3Ba/iHiiaMa a hckh
cy joui OHyBaHH. HaJ3HaTHHjn cy obh
MaHacTnp MaTeJHh h^h Maiejqe koa KyMaHOBa, 3aAy>6nHa uapnue
JcneHe, upKBa Cb. Tooptja y cejiy CTapoM HaropnnaHy,
3a,n y>K6HHa Kpajba Mn;iyTHHa. 3a Ty upKBy pycKH apxeo/ior KoHjiaKOB Ka>Ke Aa ra je nopa3H/ia" cbojhm H3rjieixoM, h Aa je to jeAiia oa naJBehnx cpncKnx upKaBa.
:
>
K^nicypH MapKOBe PeKe je MapKOB MaHacTHp ca

xpaMOM Cb. HHiwHTpnja, kojh je toahhc 1345 oohobjbeH oa Kpajba ByKauiHHa. riopeA. OBora y CKoncKOj
UpHOJ TopH cy OBe ciape upKBe h ManacTHpn: ManacTHp ApxaHre/ia Muxan-na, kojh je HanHibeH 1641,
ABe upKBe y ce/iy KyqeBHuiTy, c6e rpaljeHe y cpncKOM
CTH^y, ManacTHp ycncnnja CBeie BoropOAHuc. y ce/iy
Hepe3HMa noA KapuijaKOM je MaHacTHp h upKBa Koje
je joui 1164 roAHHe noAHrao BH3afiTHjcKH uap A/ickCHJe KoMHen. y ce/iy Jby6oTHiby cy pa3Ba/iHHe upKBe
Cb Hhko/ic, Koja je 6n;ia carpal)ena 3a bdcmc uapa
ZlyiuaHa.
B^H3y KpaTOBa Ha/ia3H ce MaHacrnp /Icchobo, 3aAy>K6nHa ZlyujaHOBor bojboac O/iHBepa. Taj je Manacmp 3HaMeHHT no cbojhm yTHuajnivia Koje je y cea
BpeMeHa BpilJHO H3A CpnCKHM CTaHOBHHLUTBOM OHHX
oa naJBehe Ba>KH0CTH ujto je
y iherviy cawyBan npBo6HTHH >KHBonnc. floa Ko3Jai<OM
je MaHacTHp KapnHHa, kojh ce y cpeAHêM cei<y ;mao
ApxiubCBHua libera je na cbojoj GaujiHiiH noAHiao
KpajeBa. Ajih je 3a
iiac
rOIMhE nOBAPAAPJE
ceBacTOKpaTop ZlejaH >KapKOBnh 3a BpeMe LUpa jlyujaHa. riope^ obhx cy 3Ha\ieHHTH MaHacTupH riwHibCKH,
FlaâHaMKH h Be/ieujKH.
II
MA/IEW C OKO/IHHOM KOHAHA H PAflOBMIITA.
Maêiu jeyoKBHpen LuyMOBHTHM n/ianHHawa cpeAibe bhchhc Bpa:myroM, flapyuoM, Totchom h CyocTpc;iom, Koje ce CKyna 30By Ma/ieineBCKe Il/iaHHHe. rboroBa y3iiy>KHa ocoBHna je MepuAHJancKora npaBua, ;i\rawaK je oko 20 km., a mnpoK HaJBHiue oko 10 km.
Cpe;uba BHCHHa ;wa KOT.iHHa je oko 700 m. hberoBi
n.iaHHMe cy y oG.iyKy nopeânc, h thmc je kot/ihh
c jy>KHe CTpaHe cacBHM TBpô 3arpaêHa, a ca ccBepne
OTBopeHa. 3aTO Ma/iem HMa OHaKBy cpeAH>e CBponcKy
K.iHMy Kao BHiue 06/iacrn jy>KHe Cp6HJe. y MaKejxoHHjii iieMa Beher KOHTpacra ho iuto je
H3uet)y OBe
KOT^HHe h KOMaHCKe h/ih pa/ioBHiiiKe, h aKO cy y nenocpeAHOj 6/ih3hhh. HcTHiia y Ma/ieni ce panyna H
ona BHeopaBaH oko IJyMaKaJHe h MaMyiviHJe, Ha kojoj
ce Beh ocehajy yTHuajH Ton;inje, jy>KHe k/ihmc Ha iboj
cuer peê najia h Bp.io KpaTKO BpeMe ce o^p>kh. A.th
no npaBOM Ma/ieiny 3H\ia je Bp.io oiHTpa n MHoro
cuera iianaâ, kojh ce MeceuHMa o.ap>KH. 3aio HaTon.mjy
BHCopaBan oko MaMyT.iHJe Ma.ienjcBun Hcrepyjy npeKO
3HMe h nanacajy CBOjy crony, h oh je 3aje;uiHMKa cboJHna Ma/ieiHCBCKHx ce.ia. OBaj naj6o/bH h najn.io;ubijn
Aeo Ma/iema, napoMHTo naiuo.vi, .iHBaaaMa H inyMOM,
ocrao je nenace.i>eH jc/ihho yc/ie/l necHrypnocTH. JIcth
neMa y Ma/ieiny ohc 3anape H Bpyher h 3arym/bHBor B33ayxa Kao no cyceanHM KOTJlMJiaMa. II obac npeoB/iabyjy TOIWH A&HH, a.ni je naxiyx cbc>k, hc6o je mccto
oG.iauno H naaajy npaBH ii.i.ycmt, Kao no ceBepniiM
Oa.iKancKHM seMJbaiM. II npo.iehe H jccen HMdjy
nyno ocoCiine BaniHl KpajeBa.
n.iacTHMKH ce oko Ma.ieiiia, aiano h oko IlHJaHua,
H3ABajajy Tpn /ic.ia
KpHCTaJtdCTe, myMOBHTe n/iaHHHC,
HOBA CPBHJA
Koje HHHe dpaHe, 3aTHM HeoreHe nône h xyMHHa, Koje
MHHe BHiiJH CTynatb y kotvihhh h i<oje cy pa3pHBeHe
noMeHyTHM ypBHHaMa; OHe c;ia3e y npaBy ajiyBujajiny

paBaH h;ih aho KOiviHHe. IlecKOBHTe HeoreHe n/ione
cy HenjiOAHe, peTKo cy rê Ky^THBHcaHe, MaxoM cy
yipHHe h no tBHMa npeno JieTa nace MHora CHTHa CTOKa.
A^yBHj'a^Ha paBaH oko BperajiHHue, Be.aHKe anco^yTHe
BHCHHe, HajdojbH je Aeo Majieina. OHa je CBa OHaKO
3eêHa Kao BHCOKe paBHHue jyro-3anaAHe Cpdnje, jano
je HaTonjbeHa boaom MHoro6poJHHx H3Bopa kojh no
HdOj H36Hjajy, a pa3BeAeHa je y Baâivia h BOAa BperajiHHue. Hivia OTaBa Kao no HauiHM KpajeBHMa H Ky/iTypHe cy 6njt>Ke MaxoM cacBHM Apyre ho no AOcaAamHdHm KOT^HHaMa. Ceje ce MHoro KpoMnnpa, 3aTHM
xejbjxe, pa>KH, npoca, jemvia, OBca, nopeA KyKypy3a h
nmeHHue; HeMa AaKJie naMyKa, opH3a h BHHorpaAa
ocra;iHX MaKeÔHCKHX KouiHHa.. 3ejieHe ce necTH BohtbauH, HapOHHTO uiJbHBapH, h OKyhHHue cy orpaijeHe
nôTOBHMa h BpjbHKaMa, qera y cycejxHHM KOiyiHHaivia
TaKOê HeMa.
Majieui ce He Moê ncxpaHHTH, h MaêmeBUH
cBane ro^HHe )khto Kynyjy. DiaBHO hm je 3aHHMa*be
CTonapcTBO, Hapo^HTO OBue h K03e, a HMa flocra h
CBHfea. Jep naina h jiHBaAa HMajy aobojl>ho, h no crpaHaMa nâHHHa, h Ha BHeopaBHH oko MaMyiviHJe no
HeoreHHM njionaMa, h HanocrceTKy OTaBe oko Bpera;iHHue. Ctokom cy Haj6oraTHj'a ccrca BjiaAHMHpoBO h
BepoBO, h HdHXObc OBue Kynyjy crpyMHHKH TproBUH h
H3B03e 3a UapHrpa^.
He Mory H3B03HTH hh noBpfce hh Bohe, jep ra
je HnaK y MatbHM Ko;iHHHHaMa. IlqeâpcTBO je rê rê
jane pa3BHJeHO, HaponHTO oko ceâ YMJieHa. Jaqe je
pa3BHjeHO ApBOAejbCTBO, rpaê ajiaTKe h H3B03e Ha
bhhhhkh na3ap. Flo BaâBHuaMa npaBe Ao6ap majaK,
kojh ca npoflaje y UlTHny h KonaHHMa.
A;ih Kao cbh nâHHHUH koa kojhx ce HHcy oaoMahH^H caBpuieHHJH HannHH paâ, MaêuieBUH He Mory
>KHBeTH oa cbhx obhx npoH3BOAa, Beh y MacaMa HAy
y nena;i6y, ryp6ei7iyK", noA cbojhm AparoMaHHMa",
Hajneinhe y OBne Flojbe. MHorH 3najy h AyHêpcKH
MA/IELU C
0K0.THH0M KOHAHA H PAOBHIJJTA
137
ryp6ei;iyK qeTaMa" Koje npeaBOAe

HaJBHine y HcroMHy MaKejOHHJy, a.in h y
3aHaT h uny y
ycTa6aiue,
/ipyre 3eMJbe.
Majieiuy HMa 15 ce;ia, h BehHHa craHOBHHUJTBa

npHnaâ LLJonoBHMa; to je oho hcto craHOBHHiUTBO
Koje je h y rinjaHuy, no OcoroBHjH, oko KpHBe fla;ianKe h y zeny jyro-HcrowHe Cponje. r/iaBHo Medo
je IlexHeBo, h/ih, Kao iijto cy ra 6ujih y HOBuje BpeMe
TypUH, Ha3Ba ih, OcMaH/iHJe. V ibeiuy HMa 5 ro 600
Kyha h 4
cy Typun. To je Ma/ia na/iaHKa ca ;ienoM
wapuiHJOM y Kojoj npeoB.ialjyjy 3aHaTH rpHHapcTBO h
KyjyHun;iyK; Ty je h ceflHWTe My;wpa. TaKO je flexhcbo H3rvie,na;io 1900 ro. MefjyTHM je 3eMJbOTpecoM
on 1904 ro^HHe riexqeBo CKopo ca 3eMJbOM cpaBH>eHo;
MHore HOBe Kyhe Koje ce 3HAajy, aahe na/iaHUH moêpHHJH H3Mej,. Hpyro bcthko Mecro y Maêuiy je
BepoBO ca 400 Kyha on kojhx cy caMO 100 TypcKe, a
HMa HeKO/iHKO Kyha xepueroBaqKHX Myxai,inpa on Hhkiunha h KoâuiHHa. Th iMyxaunpn ocHOBa.TH cy jezuio
hobo cc.no: Be3rahe BHine BepoBa; noinyHO cy owyBa/in jy>KHH flHa/ieKar, HOimby h odnwaje, a ,noce;beHH
cy noiuTO je UpHa Topa 3ay3e/ia H>nxoBe KpajeBe.
H.\ia hx h H3 6H/iehcKe o6âcTH. Metjy TypuHMa npeOB/iaf)yjy Myxaunpn H3 ByrapcKe, a/in HMa h no kojh
Myxauwp H3 hhhikc hih ziecKOBaMKe 06/iacTH. y OCTantut cc.iHMa HeMa hh TypaKa hh Myxaunpa, Hero cy
hhcto uioncKa. OHa cy pa3pel)eHOi mna Kao y OcoroBHJH. Kyhe cy hm MaxoM nêiape h/ih 03HAaHe on
Heo6pah,eHor KaMCHa, hepaMHAOM h/ih kpdbhhom noKpHBene. Ilviajy MaxoM flBa cnpaia, h Ha ropibeM HMa
wapjxaK (iiHBaHaHa) noA kojhm je cyBOTa, n 30Be ce rboo.
Vicnon Ma/ieiua Bpcra/innua y/ia3H y KOT/iHHy
Koja ce 30Be HnjaHau h Koja je hcthx n.nacTHWKnx
oco6nHa ca Ma/ieinoM. Ona OB/ie npHMa npHTOKy >Ke/bOBHuy, Koja H3BHpe y n/iannnH Ko.i.
nnjaiiaMKa KOT/imia je 15
16 km. jyraqKa, y
km. rnnpoKa, aho joj je anco/iyTHe
cpejouby pyKy
bhchhc 600 630 m. OHa je na 3ana;iy orpaHHMeHa ocoruBCKOM K/incypoM, H3 Koje Bperamiima H36nja TeK koa
IlcTn6aibe. Kao Ma/ieui, h OBa BHcoKa KOT/iHHa
''.-,
HOBA CPBHJA
138
ruiaHHHCKy K^HMy Koja je c;iHHHa ca ceBepHHJHM 06jiacTHMa Ba.iKaHCKor no/iyocrpBa, h npOH3BOAe thx
Man>e je uiyMOBma oa MaJiemeBCKor OKBHpa,

Bzh no dpaHaMa ro/iaKa hMa bhcokc rope no ko-
o6.iacTH.
a/in
cy H3MemaHe 6yKBa, xpad h 6op. Cejy ce ncra

>KHTa Kao y Majiemy, a Hajn;iOAHHJH Aeo oko U,apeBa Ce;ia >KHTHHua je nnjanaHKa. HMa Aocra uubHBapa, Te HjjbHBe h cyme. Ajih nnaK h OBAe jedOHapctbo iviaBHO 3aHHMaibe. y rinjaHuy je 12 ce/ia, a nnaBHO
je UapeBO Cejio, Koje ce paHnje 3Bajio BaaubeBO. HMa
H3rvieA najiaHKe ca MaÔM napiuHJOM. Oa 300 nyha
220 cy TypcKe, a ocrajie xpninhaHCKe. y nnjaHanKHM
joj
ce^HMa HMa MHoro noMaKa."

Majia PaAOBHLUKa KoiviHHa npeACTaBJba roptbH
Ha
C./IHB CrpyMnue, Koja ce OBAe 30Be CTapa Pena.
Il/iaqKOBHue,
Kocaivia
h
Orpa>KAeHOM
ceBepy je orpatjeHa
oa kojhx ce HajBeha Ha AecHoj CTpaHH noApnuiaHCKe
Pene 30Be H3BeAeH. Ha jyry je yoKBHpeHa hh>kom
MacoM nâHHHe CMpAeaca h KynacTHM BpxoM nnjiaBTene. Ha 3ana#y je 3apaBaH Koja ce 30Be JypyKJiyK.
Ha HCTOKy H3Meljy Orpa>KAeHa h CMpAewa ycKOM ao;ihhom, nopeA ce;ia nonpajqeBa, npoB-JianH ce pena
dpyMHua. PaÔBHuiKa KOTJiHHa je Heo6nMHe njiOAHO-
oa-nhmho ycneBajy aKHTa, opH3, naiviyK, a(j)Hjoh h noBphe. PaAOBHuiKa >KHTa cy HapOHHTO n,enbeHa.
PadoeuiuiHe je Bapoinnua Koja je npe paTa HMa-na
oko 7000 cTaHOBHHKa, on kojhx cy BehHHy ca^HtbaBajiH
Typun. Hcto TaKO h y oko^hhh PaAOBHurra Jypyun
cy canHFbaBa/iH 3naTHy BehHHy ciaHOBHHuiTBa. Bapoinnua je CBa y BpTOBHMa h 3eêHH^y, H3 Kora ce HapOMHTO H3AH>Ky BHTKe TOnO/IC U,eÔ CTaHOBHHUJTBO,
nopeA TproBHHe h 3aHaTa, 6aBH ce h 3eM;bopaAH>OM.
HapiuHJa je Ma/iena, a;w >KHB/ba h 6ojbe ypetjeHa ho
y MHOrHM CyCe^HHM BapOIHHMa. CpnCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO,
Koje je y MaibHHH, HMa hckhx TaMHHx ycnoMeHa o npolhjiocth. Hajcpe>KHia je ycnoMeHa Ha HeMatbnhcKy cpncny AP>naLy, jep 3najy Aa je Tana y PaAOBHuny ceAeo
nenoj KHecpncKH BOjdOAa. XU/be ce nejacHO npnwa
ABopoBe
rnibH Pa^H Koja je ce6n HanpaBHâ
y caAaiuiboj HaupcKOj MaxaAU, h TaKO je nocra/ia Bapom
cth.
tboj
MA/1EIH L OKO.'IHHOM
KO lAHA H PAJIOBHLHTA
l
139
Koja ce no iboj npo3Ba.ia. Zla.i.e ce npnwa aa je y ce.iy

KoHMCTy, y ao.ihhh JlaKaBnue, Gn/ia Be/iHKa Bapoiu,
rpa h MHTpono^HJa.
y panoBHiiJKOJ kot.thhh H oko/ihhh npeB/ialjyjy
Ma/ia ccna oa 10 ao 20 Kyha, a/in HMa h bcthkhx ca
150 Kyha. BdiHHOM cy MHT/iyun. CBa cy 36njeHa, oko
ii>hx HMa wedo Boha h ja6/iaHOBa.
Y cTaHOBHHiuTBy
tomc
yqccTBOBa.iH
npciiaibe
o
cy
nocTOJn
.na
y hckhm
bc.ihkhm ceo6aMa Koje cy ce KpeTa/ie npeMa ceBepv.
napoMHTO npeMa Cp6nJH.

OporpacJ)CKH ce OcoroB cacrojn H3 jibs %ej\a
H3Mel)y kojhx je Ay6oKa npecczyiHua ZleBeGanp 1200 if.
CeBepHH, MHoro hh>kh ago HeMa jeAHor HMeHa, Ma na
ce Ha crapHJHM h aaHanjibHM napiaMa 03HanaBa HMehom HoranHua. To je y>KH Benau Mepn/wjaHCKor npaBna,
kojh ce npeKo riaTapnue Be3yje ca CTpeinepoM, a Ha
3ana,ny je y Be3H ca Ko3JaKOM. HajBHUja iberoBa TanKa
je Fo/ieMH Bpx, 1830 m. Ha jyry on fleBe6aHpa je OcoroB y y>KeM CMHC/iy. Oh HMa cpe;iiby BHCHHy oko 1600 m.,
cacroJH ce nor/iaBHTO H3 Be n/iaHHHCKe Mace Koje cy luhPOkum 6h/iom Be3aHe hctomhc, Koja je Ha rpaHHUH H3Meijy CKoncKe CTape Cp6nje h ByrapcKe h Kojy heMO no
najBHUjeM Bpxy 3BaTH PyJHOM, h 3ananHe, nnja jenajBHiua TaMKa UapeB Bpx, kojh Typun 30By Cy.naHTene. 06e cy Mace 3Be3flacre crpyKType h npeAcraBJbajy r.ioMa^ne oporpacj)CKe MBopoBe. Ma.no BHiua je
HCTOHHa, mhjh je Bpx PyjaH (2230 m.) h HaJBHinn Bpx
OcoroBa. Ca ibera H3Bnpe KpaK Bpera^HHue, Koja ce30Be
Typannua, 3aTHM KpnBa PeKa. Ojy ibera ce na cbc crpaHe
pa3Hâ3e orpoMHa n/iaHHHCKa h BHCOKa 6n/ia, h to:
npeMa Jyry Ba/iTauuHHua (1990 m.), na HCTOKy BcrBynap (2050 m.), na 3aTHM npeMa Tiycren/iH.'iy niyMObhth noBHJapau LUariKC (2189 m.), Ha ceBepy BaitfAepima (1990 m.), h na 3ana;iy HjnpoKO 6h/io koj'hm ce
PyjaH bokc 3a UapeB Bpx OBaj je Ma/io'iinwn (2104
m.) h hctc CTpyKType h n/iacTHKe Kao PyjaH; na jyry
ozi ibera o^Baja ce Gn/io KniKa, na
cBepy HypaMKo
Bh/io, a na 3anaAy noMHibam SIoneH.
Ochm MacHBHocTH h 3Be3AacTe CTpyKType, Ocu}
<
HOBA CPBHJA
[40
fob HMa join obc rwacTHHHe ocodHHe. Ha hbeiviy HeMa

jaKO H3HeceHHX H OLUTpHX BpXOBa, Beh Ce H3Ha^ nioMa3He Mace Ma/io AHHty 3aBpinKacTH ro;iH BpxoBH. A;ih
je caB pa3yt)eH Bp;io &y6oKHM #o;iHHaMa h npeAcraBJba
Ba)KaH xH^porpa(})CKn MBOp H3Mel]y n^Htbe, KpHBe,
Bpera.nHHue h Crpyivie; oco6hto cy ay6oKe h K/iHcypacTe AO.iHHe Ha jyro-3anaAHOj CTpaHH OcoroBa, Kao
iijto je Ronuua 3;ieTOBiiiTHU,e, 3aTHM Crape h;ih KonaHcKe PeKe h >Keê3HHue.
OcoroB je myMOBHTa nâHHHa, y kojoj npeBJiaIjyje jiHCHaTO jipBehe, a oko HaJBHinnx BpxoBa HMa h
6opoBe rope. CaMO cy My jyaoie CTpaHe BehHM aejiOM
ro;ie. FlauiOM je Bpjio 6ora*r, h nooie LLIapa, Kopada
h JaKynnue HecyMH>HBO je y tom norvie;iy Haj6ojba
iMaHHHa obhx odâcTH. 36or Tora, h 36or Behe cnryphocth, HeMa y obhm ceBepHHM AeÔBHMa CTape Cpdwje
h MaKeôHHj'e hh y je^Hoj njiaHHHH BHuie UpHOByHana
ho no OcoroBy; HaJBHuie h>hxobhx npnBpeMeHHx Hacejba HMa no JIoneHy h Ka^HH-KaMeHy y H3BopHnrry
3êTOBHTHue, hjih ynpaBO tbeHa Kpana JeuiTepna. Ha
hctomhoj 6yrapcKoj CTpaHH PyJHa HMa KO^n6a Be^nx h
Uphhx B;iaxa. Ochm Tora ceJbauHMa okojihhx cejia
npeaajy 3;ieTOBCKH h KonaHCKH TproBUH CBOj'a Be^HKa
craâ Ha ncxpaHy h TOBJbeFbe
H3Mel]y OcoroBa h nnjaHaMKO-Ma/ieineBCKHx n;iaHHHa npo6nja ce Bpera;iHHaa Bpjio .nyranKOM KJiHcypOM, Koja ce 30Be OcoroBCKa h;ih FlHJaHaqKa. Bncona
nâHHHCKa o6;iacT Ha #ecHoj CTpaHH H>eHoj, hjih ynpaBO
jyro-HCTOMHe CTpaHe OcoroBa, 30By ce OcoroBHj'a. Flo
H>oj cy CBa ceâ B/iacnHCKor h/ih neMaTCKor THna; HaPOmhto je jano pa36njeHO h y MHore Maxa/ie noAejbeHO
Be/iHKO ceô ZlpaMMe na aecHOj CTpaHH Bpera/iHHue.
Je^HHO 36njeHO cejio OBe o6;iacTH je KajiHMaHue. Obo
je jeâH HenpoKHHyT nojac ceâ BJiacHHCKor THna, koj'h
ce oa Bpera/iHHue Kpo3 OcoroBCKy o6;iacT, KpaJHmTe,
CpeôpeK h CrpanHH npy>Ka ao nnpoTCKe Jly>KHHue."
J\ho KoqaHCKe KOTJiHHe je cacBHM paBHO, a;iyBHJa^HO je,ziHHO Hcnoa ceâ Hhbhuc HMa AH^yBHJa^Ha
Tepaca 8
10 m. BHCOKa h cacTaB^.eHa oa o6^yiaKa
;
\ /IK III
C 0K0/1HH0M
K04AHA
PAAOBHIIITA
141
KBapua h KpHCTa.iacTHX uiKpH/baiia. Ochm Tora ce ok-
BnpoM no/ba bhah 3apaBibCHOCT y Kojy
KOT/iHHa
je
y/iowena. FloMeHyr je neo Te
3apaBibeHOCTH H3\iet)y
je HcnoA hctomhot
hcko/ihko
jiena
FI/ia'iKOBHiie
KM/iOMerapa iunpoKa.
C/wmia je riHuen/ieHy kojh ce jaB/ba oko 6ocaHCKO-
KoMapa HOpH3apa; 3apaBibeH0CT
..
xepueroBaqKHx Kapawx no/ba.

Kpo3 KonaHCKy KOT^HHy npoTHMe Bpera/iHHua,
Koja je OBiie h /icth 6oraTa bohom. To AO/ia3H OTyaa
ujto ce y KonaHCKOJ kot/ihhh cKyn/bajy Kpaun h CKopo
CBe bo/iom jane npirroKe Bpera/iHHue, Kao
3/ieTOBPeKa, Maca/iHnua h/ih
lUTHixa, CTapa h.ih KonancKa
OpH3apcKa PeKa, OcoJHHiia ca ripeK/ianjuHiiOM h B/iaTaujHHuoM, h 3pnoBCKa PeKa. y KonancKOJ kot/ihhh
je XHiiporpac{)CKa ne/ieHKa Bpera/iHHue, h OHa ce OBAe
Kao 3HaTna peKa CTBapa. y3 KHine h Ton/beibe CHeroBa
ce y KOT/iHHy cra iy h MHorH noToiw h peMHue, Hapohhto c n.ianKOBHue. CBe Te MHoro6poJHe npHTOKe roHoce n/ioziHe nanoce h odnaB/bajy po;iHy 3eM/by ko:
OHa je ibHMa h ao6po HaBO/ubeHa

noTnyHHJe ycvie/i Tora iuto cy Bpera/iHuua h ibeHe
jawe npHTOKe y Miiore Baê pa3BeAeHe.
Ca CepecKHM Ilo/beM, Mer/ieHOM n MeTOXHJoM,
KonancKa KOT/iHua je Hajn/io;iHHJa y Crapoj Cp6nJH h
MaKeAOHHJH, OHa je ynpaBO pacKomne n/ioaHOCTH. PaBaH y3 jy>KHy nnnuy no/ba 3acal)cna je nor/iaBHTO nyBanoM, o komc ce 6aBe Jypyun H3 n/ianKOBHMKHX ce/ia.
CpeAibH, Ma/io y/iy6/beHH /ieo kot/ihhc 30Be ce KopHTO.
Oh je h y no3HO zieTO HaTon/beH boaom, h H3y3H\iajyhH HCKe 6apcKe napTHJe, Koje cy noji poro30M, caB
je 3acejaH opH30M. To je rviaBHH npoH3Bo;i OBe kot/IHHC, H KOMaHCKH opH3" no3naT je Kao Haj6o/bH OH
ce Ha CKoncKOj nnjaiui uchh naJBHiue, h aohuhjch je
npe 1878 roji. h y Bpaibe h /IecKOBau. Oa ocoroBCKe
K/incype na aok Bpera/wnua hc H3aê H3 KOMancKe
kot/ihhc, CByn cy nope;i n>e caivia opH3HHJTa, caMO no
oue^HHJHM uecTHMa Kyxypya. rio opH3nnjTHMa je b
BaaaMa pa3BCAcnu, h ona Ty ctojh no 40 Aana, aok je
opiia Be vnnje h.ih ;iok He Hcnap;i, na ce OHM HOBa
qaibCKe kot/ihhc
jolu
nyiijTa.
Haj/iy6;bH Aeo
kot/ihhc
je
AaK/ie
npeKO
Lie-
HOBA CPbHJA
I4z
orpe3ao y OBy BeniTa4KH AOBeAeHy BOAy,

H3HaA KOJC Ce jeAHHO AH>Ky HCyhKaCTH OpH3HH B.iaTOBH.
jior Jieia
AOJWHaMa Bpera/niiiMHHHx npmoKa,

HapoHHTo oko OcoJHnue h IlpeKJiaiiiHH4Ke Pckc 3athm y AOft>eM TOKy Maca/mnue OBAe oko cejia OpH3apa pOAH Haj6oJt>H nnpHHaq KonaHCKe KOiviHHe, h
3eM:ba je HajcKynjba. H KOâHCKH KyKypy3 h;ih uapeBHua ueHH ce Kao Haj6ojbH y MaKeAOHHJH. TaJH ce h
Bpô Mnoro 6ocTaHa, HapOHHTO oko ce/ia HuBHue; Te
/iy6eHHue cy oa HaJBehHx, Bpjio MecTO 1015 KH/ia
TeniKe. y Majioj kojihhhhh ceje ce npoca h nmeHHue.
36or 6apa kojhx MecniMHue wvia, 36or BOAe Koja
no OpH3HLIlTHMa CTOJH AOK He HCnapH, KOMaHCKa KOTjiHHa je Bpô He3ApaBa, h Majiapnja je OBAe cra;iHa 60êcT HapoHHTO ce oa n>e ;ieTH naTH KaA cy Be;iHKe >Kere.
A KOMaHCKe êTPbe >Kere no3Haie cy, jaqe ho h y hckhm
Ba3Ayx je Bpyh,
jy>KHHJHM MaKeAOHCKHM KoiyiHHaivia
OpH3
ce ceje h y
3aryuj^>HB, TOKaK, a y3 to ce hcchocho ocehajy cyHnaHH 3pauH, kojh neKy. YcjieA Tora, h ycaeA opH3HHiTa,
AHOM KOT^HHe totobo neivia Hacejba, aok cy no CTpaHaMa
fteHHivi MHoro6pojHa, Be^HKa h Bp/10 6oraia ce;ia. y
Haj/ieniuHM cy noÔKajniwa ceâ HcnoA ri/ianKOBHue,
Kao Mop03BH3A, rAe je 6n;ia ciapa enHCKonnja, a Ha-
POhhto BHHHna, Koja je Ha 3apaBHH noA orpOMHOM h

UiyMOBHTOM FlnaHKOBHUOM, Ca CBe)KHM Ba3AyxoM H
boaom. OHa je h HaJBehe ce.no KonaHCKe KOiviHHe,
ca MHorHM jiennivi TypcKHM Kyhaivia. CraHOBHHUH Bpjio
M
nOHCKH
Cy >KHBH H aKTHBHH, H BHHH4KOM 6yHOM
cy ycTaHUH y obhm KpajeBHMa. Metjy TypuHMa npeOB;iafjyiy JypyuH h MyxaunpH H3 6yrapCKHX BapouiH.
y cpeAy je y Bhhhuh na3ap, kojh He ycTyna koHaHCKOM. TprOBUH H3 okojihhx BapouiH, HapOHHTO
KonaHa h IIlTHna, AOHOce ecnane, h cejbaun H3 konaHCKe oKo^HHe, OcoroBHJe, rinjaHua h Ma/ieina, AOTepyjy cTOKy h AOHoce KO>Ke, ByHy, Maaio, BOcaK, hta.
y3 nyT ce cpeTajy KapaBaHH chthhx Marapaua, kojh
cy ocaiviapeHH h c o6e CTpaHe bctchkhm ecnanHMa HaTOBapeHH y n>HMa cy noivieHyTH npoH3BOAH, Koje cejbaun npoAajy, h Apyrn, Koje cy y Bhhhuh KynwiH.
JXpyKHHju cy TproBaMKH KapaBaHH, MaxoM kohckh.
;
MAJIBPJ C
OKO/IHHOM KOHAHA H PAflQBHUJ TA
143
KnpHunje cy B;iacH, kojh >khbc nomaBHTo Ha OcoroBCKHM nâHHHaMa, h 6aBC ce o CTonapcTBy H khpnun/iyKy Ohh 3HMy npoBejy no oko/ihhm BaponiHNia
h ce.THMa, a mhoth y ibHMa odaHy h cra/mo ce Hacrane. TaKBHx B.iaxa HMa y KonaHHMa 35 Kyha, y KpHboj Ila.iaMUH HHHe npeKO 3HMe 3HaTaH Aeo cranoBHHiiiTBa, a HeKH cy h HacTaibeHH. Y HuBHHanHMa HMa
5 Kyha cra/wo HacTaibcunx B/iaxa, HMa hx OBixe y Bhhhuh h no apyrHM KonaHCKHM ce.iHMa. Obh HacrafbeHH
B.iacn ce 6aBe norviaBHTO o KHpnuH.iyKy, a ohh hoMa^CKH ca OcoroBa, Jlonena, hta Apwe epre/ie KOH>a
h na bHMa Bpuie npeHOce ecnana. JleTH necTO chocc
h npo/iajy CHer ca OcoroBCKHx n;ianHHa, 3amM ApBeHy
rpa^y. ria3apHHM je /xaniiMa qapmnja nyna y KowaHHMa
,
BHHHUH THX
B.iaiUK'HX
rHKi
KHpHl,IHJa."
::iika
kot.iuha.
Ha/ia3H ce H3iief)y n/iaHnna n/iaByma,
HayMUHKa
KOHMaTa H H3MCl)V UiyMOBHTHX MopHYQBCKHX H.iahhiii Ha jyro-3anany. HyraMKa je oko 50 KH.ioMeiapa,

mnpoKa oko 40 KH/iOM6Tapa, a Be^HKa 2.047.7 km2 rioc/ie
MeTOxnjcKe KoT/inne, THKBem je naJBeha y Oapoj Cp6hjh h Mai:eAOHHJH. IViaBF*' THKBeiHKy KOMynHKauHJy
nope;i
Bap,iapa
oj. crapnue npecTaB/ba.na je AO.iHiia
Tora nonpewHHM KOMynHKaiuijaMa HMa/ia je BC3e ca
H
Ipn.neriCKOM h BHTo:bci<OM Kot.thhom. ca MopuxonoM,

ca LliTHnoM h OpyMHuoM. HapOMHTO je pannje 6ho
Ba>naH nyT 3a ripn/ien, na komo ce H jaHac cpeiajy
KapasanH Ma3rn ca ecnannMa h mhoto khphuhjckhx
kojh cy
Ko/ia, h na noc/ieTKy Mnoro6pojnH xaiioBH,
IHOM Bap/iapa
CBe AO .mnac c 'lyBann. Oa Kai> j<
npupa;uua î.ic.umna, unaj je nyT OR CBOJe BaxcHOI
larao
'o.
TnKBeuj je naJHH/Ka n naJTon/inja kot.thii,

MaKeAOHHJe. Y n.eMy yceBH C83py na Meceu aana npc
hu y Ckohckoj h Bhhu.i/koj KOTJIHHH. CHCI na/i a peTKO
HOBA CPBHJA
144
h o^p>kh ce caMO HeKO^HKO Aana. Knma naâ y jeceH

h y noneTKy npo;ieha Taâ je 3eMJbHiiiTe HaTonjbeHO,
Bâ>KHO, nomyHO 03e;ieHH, a penHije #o6HJy Bo^y. Beh
KpajeM (j)e6pyapa noHHite #a 3e;ieHH, KpajeM jyHa HaCTyna HecHOCHa >Kera, Koja je hco6hhho jaKa; Ba3ayx
je Bpyh, H3 to^hx nnona h necKa 3paqn TonjioTa h
6Hj'e Kao japa. Ueôr Jieia He6o Hnje HHKa^ Hao6;ianeHO h cyHue dnje 6e3 npeciaHKa. H3BOpH npecaxHy,
a Ma;ie pe^Hue npecyuie. JjpBa cy h uiyMe BeoMa peine,
h 3aTO HeMa xnanoBUHe, hh 3aKJioHa oâ; cyHua. Bp;
ckh Aeo THKBeiua Ha ;ieBoj CTpaHH Bapâpa ;ieTH je

caB ro h upH, 36or Tora ihto ce jaKO pacnaâjy MO,npH
h McyTH neinwapH h npH TOMe npeBJiane hckom uphom
HaBâKOM. PeTKH cy 6yceHOBH TpaBe, kojh cy noTnyHO
cnapyuieHH, TaKO rb. HeMa hh name. YceBH cy peTKH h
MaxoM KpHCJbaBH. TaKO JieBa 6p4CKa cipaHa THKBema
Ha^HHH JieTH Ha npaBy nycTHtby. Ceâ cy 3HaTHO
Man>a Hero Ha #ecHOJ CTpaHH. Kyhe cy cacBHM y 6;iH3y,
6e3 peâ Ha6auaHe, He3rpanHa o6;iHKa, HawHtbene oa
HeoTecaHHx n;iona, 6e3 Ma^Tepa, noKpHBeHe Tan>HM
nemnapcKHM n/ionaMa hjih KpoBHuaivia. y ABopnuiTHMa,
hh oko cejia, HeMa HHrê apBeTa. 3aTO cy 3hmh h3jioaceHH jaKHM BeTpOBHMa, a ;ieTH hx 6nje HecHOCHa Hcera,
36or Tora ce y obom Kpajy THKBema yMwpe, craHOBhhuitbo ce pacejbaBa, h HMa MHoro nycTHx ce;ia. Ty
CTaHyje TypCKO imeMe JypyuH, kojh npeACTaBjbajy rpoMO,
jieibo h HeKy^TypHO ct3hobhhujtbo, h Koje thm oco6hHaMa 3HaTHO noBehaBa onuny 6e^y OBor Kpaja.
MHoro je njioAHHJH h HacejbeHHJH onaj #eo .THKBema kojh je Ha Aecnoj CTpaHH Bapnapa. OBjxe Kao h
y aojihhh PajHe, CBa n/iOMacra 6pâ Koja cy cacraBjbeHe oa necKa h KpenH>aKa 3acat)aHa cy bhhobom jio30m.
To je orpoMaH BHHorpaACKH Kpaj, c kojhm ce bhhorpa^CKH KpajeBH AOcaAauitbe Cp6nje He Mory ycnope>)HBaTH. THKBeiu ca PajueM h CxpyMHUOM npeAcraBJba
HaJBehy BHHorpaâpcKy o6;iacT y ue;ioj MaKeAOHHJH.
HaJBHiue je 3acaêHa ;i03a upHora rpo>Kâ, on, Koje
HMa BHme Bpda, a 30By ce HnKOAHHKa, HnmaBKa h
THKBeiHKa ;i03a; Maê je 3acaêHa 6e;ia Ji03a, Koja ce
30Be flpHapKa, a joiu Man>e BerviepKa, Koje HMa up-
THKBEUJKA KOT/IHHA
BeHKade 6o6e Kao crpyMHMKO rpo>Kê. HaJBHme ce

rpomê ce/ia PocoMaHa h KaMeH rojiz. U,eHTap THKBeiuKH je Ka8adapu,u, y KOMe ce npoâje thKBeiuKO rpoKê h bhho. y ibeMy CTaHyjy thkbcujkh
6eroBH, totobo caMO IloMauH, kojh BehHHOM roBope cpnxBa/in
ckh. noc/iezubHx roiiHHa Kao Ba>KHe nHJaue 3a rpo>Kl)e

nocTanc cy h >Ke/ie3HHMKe craHHue J\euup KanHJa,
KpHBO/iaK h Tpa^cKO. PaHHj'e ce rpowlje H3B03H/io HajBHiue 3a Co/iyH, a 3a nocjiembux 10 roiiHHa najBHiue
y Cp6njy Flope^ rpowlja npoaaje ce y bchhkhm ko^HMHHaMa bhho, paKHja h cnphe. Flo BHHorpaiiHMa HMa
AOCTa ao6pa Boha. Ha aecHoj crpaHH Bapâpa y ThKBeujy y bchhkhm KO/iHMHHaMa ca^H ce ac[)HOH, cy3aM,
aHacoH h naMyK. y ao/ihhh UpHe ceje ce aocra nnpHHna, oko UpHe HMa nocra poro3a, or Mera ce npaBe
acype h H3B03e 3a ripn/ien h Co/iyH. HnaBHO MecTO y
TnKBeujy jecre KaBaâpue. To je Bapoiu 6oraTHX thKBeiHKHX 6eroBa, MHJe ziene Ky/ie caMHibaBajy HajBehH
h Haj/ieniiJH Reo Bapoiun. MecTa BaTOiua h HeroTHH
AoGnjajy CBe Behn 3naqaj, HapoMHTO noc/ieaibH, jcp je
y 6/ih3hhh KpHBO/iaK, h y ibeMy ce np>KH jeâHnyT
Heê^Ho na3ap. HeroTHH HMa MapiHHJy h h3mca3 Kao
Ma/ia BapoujHua. H y JbeMy ce/in aocra thkbcujkhx 6eroBa h HMa ziennx hcko/ihko 6eroBc<HX ny.na. Tpa^CKO
h KpHBO/iaK cy >Ke/ie3HHqKe craHHue 3a FIpH/ien h
IUTHn, o6a cy >KHBa, Harvio nanpe^yjy h paciy. y Tpajckom HeMa ce/ia bc!i caMO xanoBa kojh paê nor.iabhto y jeceH 3a BpeMe H3B03a rpowfya. MeljyTHM je
KpnBO/iaK bcnhko ce/io ca Ma/ioM HapuinjoM npcTOKHO
ocMaH/iHJCKOM, a Ma/io noMaMKOM. Ca o6e nooieAH>e
TaHKC H3B03C >' BC.THKHM KO.HHMHHaMa n/IOMC OR apTH/louiHcra Koje \qrho HCMaMKO ^pyiHTBO ccmc y ce.iy
FIonaanJH h H3B03H y HeManKy, 3aTHM 3a Co/iyH, Hhhj,
Btorpaa h
CocJ)njy.
Ha accho] dpaHH Bapâpa
cy ce/ia 6o/ba h Beha

ho Ha /lesoj. Ce.i.auH cy MaxoM MH(}) iHJe KaBa/iapcKtix
h HeroTHHCKHx CeroBa. no bhhjc Hmjwuja craHyje y jeai
hom ayrawKOM, 3ajca"HMH0M, npn3CMH0M cranycaBHiLie

nperpaaa h ouaKa. Th CTanomi Mory Chth Kao H.np.
onaj y MH(}).TyKy Kopnjn ro 80 Mdapa jiyraMKH. Heka
HOBA CP6UJA
!>
HOBA CPB1IJA
14(i
cy ce;ia ncmejbeHa Ha BHiue MHiviyKa, ajiH BehHHa cejia

canHHaaBajy HHT/iyK je^Hor 6era.
^pyKHHJH H3rêA paBHuue oko Bap.napa, Koja ce npy>Ka on BeneiiiKe JOwcype .ao XleMHpKannje. PaBHHua je 3acejaHa >khtom, a no crpaHaMa cy
Hajqeiuhe BHHorpa/m. HajnjioAHHj'e cy napTHje H3Mel]y
yjianua h FpaacKor h Horaje h TpivmHiuTa.
CacBHM
je
IV.
MOPMXOBO.
3a THKBem je eKOHOMCKH Be3aHa BHCOKa n;iaHHHCKa o6âcT Mophxobo, Koja noHHtbe on FIojioujKor
MaHacTHpa y THKBeiuy h npyaca ce y3 AO^HHy UpHe
CBe no CKOHHBHpcKe K;iHcype. hberoBy ceBepHy rpaHHUy HHHH HH3 BHCOKHX H CTpMHX nJiaHHHa, H3Met)y
kojhx cy HaJBehe flpeujjbeH, PyjeH h Pa,no6HJbCKa FLaaHHHa. H3Meijy BHm/bCKe Kotjihhc h MopHxoBa je Ce/ienKa nâHHHa, a Ha ziecHoj crpaHH UpHe cy mophxobCKO-MerjieHCKe njiaHHHe, H3Me^y kojhx je HaJBHuia Hwne,
ca cbojhm BpxoM KajMaK-Ha/iaH, kojh je 2525 m. bhcok.
On CKOHHBHpcKe
K/iHcype no rioôujKor MaHaCTHpa Mophxobo je AyranKo oko 50 KHJiOMeTapa; noBpujHHa fceroBa h3hoch 1390 KBazipaTHHx KHJiOMeTapa,
a cpe^Fba BHCHHa My je oko 1000 MeTapa. Mophxobo
je AaKê HaJBHina KOiviHHa MaKeAOHHJe h CTape Cp6nje.
MopHxoBCKO-MerêHCKe njiaHHHe, nopea ocoroBCKO-MaJieuiKHX njiaHHHa, riepncTepa, JaKynnue h IUape

npencTaBâjy HaJBehy nâHHHCKy Macy y Hoboj Cp6HJH.
OHe cy
dpaHHM
ca cbhx crpaHa onKo;beHe ,ny6oKHM h npoKOT^HHaivia h peHHHM #o;iHHaMa. Ha ceBepy

cy TnKBeui h Pajau, Ha 3anaAy je FleâroHHJa, Ha jyry
je Capntp/i h MervieH, a Ha HCTOKy nonnna. Bapâpa
c H>eHHM KOT^HHaMa. y cpeijHHH Tora BHCOKor n;iaHHHCKor CK/iona je KopyTHHa Mophxobo, Koja ce Haâ3H c o6e CTpaHe UpHe. y n>oj HeMa Behnx jezmocraBHHX paBHH Beh cy caMO OBiie-OHê Man>e 3apaBHH,
Koje 30By UoaohU. Ocra;jH HberoB fleo HHHe BHeopaBHH
M0PHX0B0
147
h MacHBHe, MaxoM 3apaBtbeHe Koce, Koje cy npoceHeHe

h pacraB/beHe Ay6oAo;iHHaMa. Flo TOMe cbom H3ivieAy
MopnxoBO Ha.iHMH Ha BHCOKe n.aaHHHCKe 06/iacrH xepueroBaqKe rioBpuiH h upHoropcKHx BpAa. K/iHMa je
oiuTpa, HecTO c oco6nHa\ia cpeAtbe-eBponcKe k^hmc
Zlo/iHHe cy Bpô Ay6oKe h nyHe boac BHHOBa /103a
y H>eMy He ycneBa, a nêMeHHTO Bohe Bp/io peTKO.
CBe n/iaHHHe ochm Ce/iem<e npenpHBeHe cy rycTHM bhcokhm ujyMaMa, Met}y KoJHMa npeB/ial)yjy neTHHapn.
Mophxobo npeacraB/ba HajinyMOBHTHJy o6.iacT iicae
HoBe Cp6HJe. TproBHHa c APBHMa jaKO je pa3BHJeHa.
HhHXOBa ,npBa cnyiHTajy ce cn/iaBOBHMa ao y Bapjap,
oiiaKê cy ce y paHHJa BpeMeHa peKOM cnyujTa/ia ao
Co/iyHa. y iiiyMaMa HMa MHoro MeABeAa, ByKOBa, cpHa,
jeêHa h ahba>hx cBmba. Uopeix Tora jaKO je pa3BHjeHO CTOMapcTBO, jep je ue/ia 06/iacT Bp/io 6oraTa naujaMa. ripe neTpAeceT roAHHa XaH je panyHao Aa y
MopHxoBy HMa oko cto xn;baAa OBaua. I~IopeA cto*
qapcTBa MopnxoBJbaHH ce MHoro 6aBe ApBOAe/bCTBOM

h 3HAapcTBOM. Mophxobckh Aynijepn nyiyjy MHoro no
CBeTy, MaxoM y BehHM rpynaMa no 20 ao 40 h>hx y
jeAHOM iipyuiTBy. hbnxoBe AyHtjepcKe Apy>KHHe cy Maxom opraHH30BaHe, h HMajy CBora Bot)a, kojh norafya
nocao h npHMa nopyi;6Hne. Hay h Kao HaAHHwapn y
6;iH>Ke kot/ihhc rAe o6pat)yjy ilhbc
y toj TeujKO npncTynaMHOJ h 3aTBopeHOj o6;iacTH
HeMa HHrê npaBora nyia, Beh caMO nyTaiba Koje cy
c/iwHHe upHoropcKHM HororrynHMa, h pefye KOAOB03a.
OHa npe.acTaB.ija HaJMHCTnjy c/iOBencKy o6/iacr y ue/ioj
MaKeAOHHJH. CaMO y ce/iHMa KoHOiiHWTy h Mpe>KHHkoj HMa ne3HaTaH 6poj AOce/bCHHx Ap6anaca, a y TpaaeujHHUH, ByAHMepuy h BemHiHTy HMa Ma/io B/iaxa.
MopnxoBO je, nopeA Tora, o6.iacT naTpnapxa.iHe ny/iType ca jeABa npnMeTHHM TypcKHM h rpm<o-UHHuapckhm Ky^TypHHM yTHuajeM. Obo CTanoBHHiHTBO h no
cbojhm ncnxHHKHM oco6HnaMa mhhh 3acc6ny oa3y y
MaKCAOHHJH. Oho je OTBopeHO, aocct.i.hbo, OTpecHTo,
a nopeA Tora Mnpno h Bp/io rocro/byfiHBO. Obo je
MO)KAa jeAHHO CTOMapCKO CpnCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO Koje
ne 3Ha 3a Kpaijy h n/iennA6y crow
148
HOBA CPBHJA
CBa MopHxoscKa cejia cy cio6oAHa.

wnja hh HHT^yqKor eKOHOMCKor CHCTeMa.
HeMa mhcj)OBe hmobhc
npH^HKe, nopeA qHdor n.iaHHHCKor Ba3Ayxa h cjio6orhot CToqapcKor >KHBOTa, yTHua/ie cy 3HaTHO Ha pa3BHhe HapOHHTHX nCHXHMKHX OC06HHa. Mel)y MOpHXOBCKHM Ce/IHMa CBOJOM BCnHMHHOM H npHBpeAHHM )KHBOTOM
HapoMHTO ce H3iiBajajy nBa, h to Pojtcden, qnje crahobhhihtbo nopeA CTonapciBa 3HaTHO npnBpet)yje h
pyâpcKHM 3aHHMaHDeM; 3aTHM BuiuaAuuiule, HajBehe
MOpHXOBCKO CQJIO OR 220 Kyha, aAMHHHCTpaTHBHH ueHTap uejior MopuxoBa. 06a OBa ce/ia cy Ha Aecnoj
dpaHH Uphe. JleBa cipaHa je Manê HacejbeHa, a nopeA
Tora Ty cy h ce;ia mhoto Maita. Y MopHxoBy HMa Ma;io
dapor >KHBOTa h ocTaTana oa CTapHna. y po>KAeHCKOM
MajâHy HMa TparoBa CTapor pyâpcKor paâ H3 cpeziHaer BeKa. Hojiohikh MaHacTHp 3HAaH je y cra/iy oxpHAckhx upKBeHHX rpabeBHHa h H3nieAa no TOMe Bpô
CTap. nopeA Tora, y ce/iy Mctchhuh HMa MaHacTHp cb.
H/iHJa, y ce^y MaHacTHpy je MaHacTHp Cb. BoropoAHua, a koa ce.na B30BHha je MaHacTHp LIe6peH.
Mhhh ce Aa he MopnxoBO nopeA HOBo6pACKe h
KpaTOBCKe o6;iacTH nocTaTH HaJ3HanajHHJa pydapcna
o6Aaciu y ueôj Hoboj Cp6HJH. Ubhjhh je Hawao mhoro6poJHe TparoBe pyAa oko ce;ia Po>KAeHa, Ha .neBOJ
dpaHH pene BHCTpnue, a HapoMHTO y pojkachckom
MajâHy kojh ce 30Be A;iujap h kojh ce Ha;ia3H 4 ao 5
KHÔMeiapa oa cejia PomjieHa. A/iinap je ao6ho hmc

no noMeTHHM c/iOBHMa HberoBHX 3aKynHHKa A/iaTHHa h
LLlapHHJo. y HêMy je noHeô 036n/bHHJe HcnHTHBahbe
oa 1889, a 1891 je 3anoMeo npaBH pyâpcKH paA. y
KbeMy o6hhho paê oko 120 paAHHKa, a nonaTKaA
hx HMa h ao 400. Pa^HHUH cy MaxoM cejbaun H3 oko^hhc BaAH ce o6hmho aHTHMOH, pea^rap h ayponnrMeHT. Tbpah ce j\a py#a caiip^KH 60% aHTHMOHa h Aa
HeMa HHKaKBHX IHKOAJbHBHX CaCTOJaKa. Ha nOBPLUHHH
CT^Ha MecTo ce BHAe h KpHcra;iH rnnca. JeAaH crpyqfcaK (KpeHep) Hainao je y ApymTBy c pea^rapoM hob
MHHepa;i jiopaHAHT, a 4>y/iOH je KOHcraTOBao cth6/iht,
cepBaHTHT, aHTHMOHCKy 6;ieHAy h Ba;ieHTHHHT. HMa pyAapcKHx onaHa H3 paHHj'er BpeMeHa, no KojHMa H3nieAa Aa
TbfcB'ftfL/IHJCKA
KO'IVIHHA M
bOJMHJA
nor/iaBHTo BafyeH aHTHMOH. HecyMJbHBO je #a HMa TparoBa or pyâpcKor pa.ua H3 XII h XIII BeKa. y H3Bophoj o6;iacTH peKe BâtuHue, napoMHTO Ha craBaMa
B/iaujHU.e h MajjeMCKe PeKe, UbhjhH je Haiuao Kynnlura or aHTHMOHCKe TpocKBe. AnTHMOHa, pea.irapa h
aypHnHTMeHTa HMa Ha mhothm MecTHMa OBe 06/iacrH,
a.iH ce Ba;je caMo y A;mjapy. HsuaR Po>KAeHa Ba^H
ce h xpoMHT. riope^ obhx râBHux pyâ HMa MHoro
rnnca h cyMnopa. Ha H3rope/ioj MyuH nope^ ce/ia
Po>KAeHa HMa h >Ke;ie3HHX pyâ.
je
V.
fbEBTbh/IMJCKA KOTJ1MHA
V\
M3MeJ)y UnraHCKe K^Hcype h
bOJMHJA.
HeMHp Kannje
nocToje RBe roTOBo cpac/ie BapâpcKe KOT/iHHe, Koje cy

y ue/iHHH oko 30 KH/iOMeTapa AyraMKe a oko 6 kh.lOMeTapa innpoKe. OHe cy Ha 3ana^y orpatjeHe bhco-
KHM UJyMOBHTHM OrpaHUHMa MopHXOBCKO-Mer/ieHCKHX

nâHHHa, a na HCTOKy to/ihm Kapadan/iOM, 3aiHM
orpaHUHMa Fl/iayuja h Be-iacnue. PaBaH TbeBlje/iHJCKe
KoT^HHe cadaBêHa je or Ae6e;iHX chviajiOBa wy-rora
necKa, 3aTHM or n/iaBHHa h naHoca pa3Hnx pena Koje
y/ia3e y ToeBljcnujcKy KoT/inny. IlpeMa TOMe KoiTinna
He 6h 6n/ia oco6htc nô^HocTH, a/in cy o6e KOT/iHHe
6oraTe boôm, Koja ce pa3BOAH h n/iOAHOcr 3naTno nojaqaBajy. TjeBlje-injcKa KoT^HHa Beh CKopo cacBHM je MeAHTepaHCKe k/ihmc; 3hmh naaa Bp/io TanaK cuer, npaBe
3hmc CKopo HHKaKO HCMa; Knunia BpeMeHa cy npo.iche h no3Ha jeccH. CyinianH 3pami cy zieTH jaKH,
a/in hc ca>KH>Ky h ne np.be Kao y oko/ihhh Co-nyna h
HeMa ohhx 3anapnHX hohh Kao TaMO. Yc/iea Tora /icth
KoiviHHa TocBljo/injcKa hhjc onaKO cnp.beHa, no Jtoj
HMa npaBHX ziyroBa or naBHTnue, Kynnne, r\w
py>Ka h >Koyiba
ona aaK/ie HMa Me^HTepaHCKy k.i;
ca cbokhjhm ^ctom. 36or obc k/ihmo H uoracTBa boac
OBzie ce Mo>Ke o6pai)HBaTH Ky/nypHO 6n/be, h 3601
;
Tora
je
OBa KOiviHHa Bp;io 6oraTa.
HOBA CPBHJA
150
KouiHHa je Ha npBOM MecTy CBH-napckh Kpaj, nopeA BoAeHa jeâH oa rjiaBHHx CBHâpckhx ueHTapa y MaKeAOHHJH. Flo ce^HMa h oko ce/ia
BHAe ce bc/ihkh AyAHttauH, oHaKo Kao y 3ana^Hoj Cp6hj*h uiJbHBauH. nopeA AyAHfoaKa HMa Aocra bhhorpa.ua, rt>HBa noA naMyKOM, cycaMOM, AyBaHOM h 60daHOM. y 3HaTHOJ kojihmhhh ceje ce nuieHHua h KyKypy3. 3a TbeBê^HJCKy KoiviHHy MOH<e ce pehH %a je
CKopo npeHacejbeHa, aok UnraHCKa K^Hcypa h HeMHp
Karmja HHcy CKopo HHKaKO HacejbeHe 36or Hecnryp'foeBêjiHjcKa
hocth
Koja ce y H>HMa oceha. TbeBêjiHjCKa ceâ cy

HeodHHHO Be^HKa, cnaAajy y HaJBeha cejia y MaKeAOhhjh, a ochm Tora OHa cy MHoro6poJHa h 36HJeHa.
TaKBO Hacejbe je Ha npBOM Medy caMa TbeBê^nja,
Koja je ao npe 25 roAHHa 6ma ceô, a oa TaAa je
nocra/ia cpeAHurre Ka3e h ceAHtme KaJManaivia. Ty je
caAa >KHBa BapouiHua, qnja je iviaBHa yjinua npaBa h
HMa H3rêA cpeAft>e-eBponcKHx BapouiKHX yjinua cnopeAHe cy yjinue TecHe h KpHBe, o6hhho TypcKO-BH3aHTHJCKor THna. HcnoA Bapoiun cy bcjihkh AyAHtbaun
h nojba ca cycaMOM h naMyKOM, a H3HaA fte cy no
dpaHaMa BHHorpaAH. Y nocneAifcHM roAHHaMa noAHrliyTc cy ABe (})a6pHKe 3a HcnpeAatt>e CBHJie, pa3BHO ce
>khb paA, h CTaHOBHHUiTBO je ca pa3HHX dpaHa npHTHuajio; HMa y feoj h eBponcKHX crpaHaua, 3aTHM, y
HajHOB; je BpeMe, y npHJMMHOM 6pojy h co/iyHCKHx JeBpeja, a;iH HaJBHUie HMa OiOBeHa, oko 3.000; 3aTHM
;
Typana h MepKe3a, oko 1.200, h B/iaxa, oko 150.

Jy>KH0 oa TbeBije^HJe npocTHpe ce o6;iacT hhcto
TypcKor CTaHOBHHUJTBa, y kojoj cy HaJBeha ce;ia MajaAara, oko 3 500 Ayma, h Kapace/iaBa, oko 2.100 Ayma.
36or HapOHHTHX TepeHCKHx npHJiHKa Ta cy ceâ pa36njeHa y BHiue Ma^HX 36hjchhx Maxa/ia. Kyhe cy hm
Be^HKe, ABoenpaTHe, OKpeneHe h ca bhtkhm ouauHMa,
h orpaljeHe bhcokhm 3HAOBHMa oa hepnHna. HMa Typana h y ApyrHM ce^HMa, TaKO Aa he hx CBera 6hth
y BeBê^HJCKOJ Kotvihhh oko 15.000 Ayma. Jyro3anaAHO oa TaeBijejiHJe noHHH>e o6;iacT BJiaiiJKHx ce;ia,
Koja HHHe ucaHHy ca BâmKOM o6;iacTH Mcn/ienoM. A;ih
3HaTHy BehHHy y TbeBê^HJCKOJ Kot^hhh MHHe C/iobchh,
AOJPAH H KOT/IHHA
L>1
kojh >KHBe y Be^HKHM, 36hjchhm ce;iHMa, KOJHX HMa

BHiue cao6o^HHx ho mhc})mhjckhx. Kyhe h OKyhHHue
thx ce/ia cy orpaf)eHe 3H0BHMa on hepntma, a y;iHue
cy ycKe h BHJyraBe. KpoBOBH Ha Kyha.via cy on TpcKe
h hepavinne. Uempa/iHa npocropHJa y oiobchckoj KyhH
30Be ce uoAaiuna^ y Kojy ce Hajnpe c BpaTa y.ia3H h
oko Koje cy nopeâHe co6e ca KaMHHHMa y iboj ce
rocTH AoneKyjy h npeKO aaHa cejH. rithn HeMa HHi\ae.
floA je on Ha6HJeHe 3e\i:be Koja je hSkom 3eM/baHOM
CMeiuoM npcMa3aHa, TaKO n& je r/iaaaK h â /jeno H3ivieâ. Kyhe cy MHcrnje ho y ocra.iHM MaKeAOHCKHM
ce.THMa, na naK h y MHorHM o6;iacTHMa AOcaaauiibHx
cyio6oAHHX 6a^KaHCKHX 3eMa;ba. Kyha ce ;iaKO BeipH
h npeacraB.ba je^Hy on HajcaBpiueHHJHx Bpcia ceocKe
Kyhe Ha ue/iOM no/iyocrpBy. CTaHOBHHiHTBO je Ky;iTypHHJe on ocraôr MaKeAOHCKor, na naK Ky/iTypHnje
on CTaHOBHHiiJTBa HeKHx ceBepHHx 6a;iKaHCKHx 3eMa.ha.
riopeA er3apxHCTa h naTpHJapujHcra, y H>HMa je 6h;io
KaTo.THMKHX, nporecraHTCKHX h yHHJaTCKHX npHcra/nma.
CTaHOBHHiHTBO ce Bp;io mhoto 6aBH neHa/i6oM, Koja
je Bp/io BepoBaTHO 6n/ia on yTnuaja h Ha npoMeHe y
je3HKy h Ha obo BHme Ky/iTypHO craibe caMor ciaHOBHHUJTBa.
;
VI.
IOJPAH M hbtloBA KOT71HH
Ha jyro3anaAHOj CTpanH ZIojpaHCKor Je3epa
na-
Bapouj floAeHUH h.ih Upjpan. On je ckohomckh ueiiTap ziojpaHCKe KOT/iwue, ochm Tora neaa.ieKO
on ibera npe;ia3e ^Ba nyTa jeâfi npeKO OypKo jKC/ie3HHna, Koja nopen jc3epa 3a Cepe3 bo;iii. M.via totobo aM^HTcaTpa.ian no/iowaj h hcoChmho /ien h3mca c je3epa. BehH aeo BapoujH ce na/ia3H na jeiinoj Tepacn; Kyhe cy Ml
BHCOKC, .IHIICM OKpCHyTC je3epy, C MHOrHM npo3op
/ia3H ce
h Tec))epHMHMa uoKcaTHMa).
OHe
cy
MaxoM
no/iHrr
152
HOBA CPEHJA
jczma H3Ha^ jpyre, rb. 6yl CBana HMaâ Jien H3rjiea

Taj roptbH .neo je TypcKa Bapoiu c kphbhm,
TecHHM h ctpmhm yjinuaMa HMa oko 600 Kyha, BehH*
hom Ha .ziBa 6oia; Ha npo3opHMa cy ApseHe peiueTKe
h^h KaBe3H", c jiHua HcnoA CTpeje Ha 3Hziy pa3He
iuape, a ^.BOpHuiTe orpaljeHO je bhcokhm 3haom npeMa
yjiHUH, #a ce He MO>Ke HHiiiTa yHyipa bhacth. y okojihhh npeoBJialjyjy TypuH, y CBaKOM norjie^y Bp;io 3aocra/iH, Te Bapoiu, ochm o6HHHe Typcne MapujHje, HeMa
je3epo.
HHKaKBor 3Haqaja. Oko BeJiacHixe npeoBJiatjyje cjioBeHCKO CTaHOBHHuiTBO, Koje H#e y neHaji6y, 3a BpeMe
MceTBe, no cyce&HHM MaKeaoHCKHM KOiviHHaMa, Hapohhto co-nyHCKOj. nopco. je3epa je xpHinhaHCKO-cjioBeHCKa Ma/ia c rviaBHOM napiuHJOM h na3apoM (TproM), Koja
HMa oko 400 Kyha. DiaBHa yjinua hjih qapuiHJa c ,nyhaHHMa h KaâHaivia npyâ ce cacBHM nopeA o6a/ie,
na je Ka/unio, npn HaJBehHM noBOAitHMa, je3epo
n;iaBH. OHa je Aocra innpoKa, npaBa, h HeMa THno6HHHe
TypcKe qapuiHJe, Beh BHiue eBponcKe: Kyhe cy MaxoM
ziBocnpaTHe, HOBHJera, ccnyHCKora THna oa cjia6e rpatje,
Ha ropibeM ce cnpaiy craHyje, a y AOft>eM cy .ayhaHH
6e3 heneHaKa h;ih Ka(|)aHe ca cro/iOBHMa h CTO/wnaMa,
BehHHa Kyha je Ha rbsl cnpaTa. 3haobh aotbera cnpaTa
cy or KaMeHa. a ropibera oji crca6HJe rpaije, Hajqeinhe
or TpcKe, ynpaBO oji .neca Koje cy TaHKHM caojeM Ma;iTepHcane cnojba h H3HyTpa. y AOtbeM cnpaTy ce peTKO
CTaHyje; Ty je BejiHKa o#aja ca cry6oBHMa, y kojoj ce
CK/iaitajy pH6apcKe Mpeace, aâTH h .apyre CTBapn. Flo
upBenHM CTeneHHuaNia ce neite Ha roptbH cnpaT, Ha
KOMe ce CTaHyje. Bcahkh jieo BapoiiiKor CTaHOBHHniTBa,
HapoHHTO OiOBeHH, oko 250 Kyha, npeKO 1.000 jxywa,
6aBH ce h >khbh o pH6apcTBy. Je3epo je ph6om npe6oraTo: coMOBHMa, mapanHMa, 6e.nBHU.OM h KOCTepOM.
XBaia ce roAHiHHbe oko 350.000 OKa, a TypcKa BJiacr
y3HMaâ je roAHintbe êceTKa oko 1.500 TypCKHX nupa.
Hh Ha je^HOM MaKeÔHCKOM je3epy HHJe pn6apctbo TaKO pa3BHj'eHO Kao Ha JlojpaHCKOM Je3epy. O
pH6apcTBy ce oBê 6aBH pejiaTHBHO BehH 6poj craHOBHHKa ho na #pyrHM je3epHMa. Pn6y pa3Hoce h
npoâjy no CBHMa oko^hhm MecTHMa, 3aTHM y KyKyuj
AOJPAH H
HA
lb!
h CrpyMHuy. JlojpaHUH cy npH3HaTH

Haj6o/bH pH6apn, h ohm cy rviaBmi pn6apn h
fbeBfye;iHJy, Be.iec
Kao
TaXHHCKOM, AJBaCHTCKO-BeUJHMKOM,
PwaHCKOM h A.viaTOBCKOM Je3cpy Taj ibHxoB pa a je
HeKa BpcTa ncqa.a6apcTBa. HojpaHCKH pw6apH HMajy
HaJBHiiie h Hajpa3HOBpcHHJHx cnpaBa h naMnna 3a XBaHa
DyTKOBCKOM,
Taibe pH6e.
Oco6hto cy HHTepecaHTHa
H>HX0Ba ziOBHuiTa Ha
ZlojpaHCKOM Je3epy. FIpH6pe>KHH tpckom o6pac/in ê60 JioBHiiiTa, Koja
/iobh je3epa noiieêHH cy Ha 50
cy MaxoM npHBaTHa CBOJHHa. JloBHiuTa cy orpaticua h
1
zajbe Hcnperpa^HBaHa TpcTeHHM .rcecaMa. y /lOBHLUTa

nytHTajy THue noAceMeHHx KpH/ia, Koje ce 30By npaja
h BpaHHUiufua, OHe nâiue pw6y h 36HJajy je y CBe
Maibe nperpa^cHe oaejbKe ( w aM6ape"), i\ae je OHâ pw6apn XBaTajy. 3a to Bpe.vie craHyjy y KO/iH6aMa Koje
cy koa ôBHiHTa no^HrHyTe. MHoro6poJHH pH6apn cy
bc/ihkh #eo rcaHHe y obhm KO/iHGaivia oko /lOBHUJTa,
TC >KHBe aM(J)HOHJCKHM >KHBOTOM. Ko.1n6e Cy AHTHyTe
i,5 m. FIo6hy npH6pe>KHoj 30hh, mc je ,ny6HHa 1
jeHO je Ko;be h/ih AHpeuH, npeKO ibnx cy no.no/Kene
âcKe, a CTpaHe H KpoB cy oil TpcKe. Te Ko/in6e cy
/iaK/ie no no/iowajy h KOHcrpyKUHJH CKopo hctobcthc
c upencTopHJCKHM na/ia(j)HTCKHM rpaljeBHHaMa. y ocTa.tom. BemiKa pn6apcKa BeuiTHHa, MHoro6pojnH pn6apckh a/iaTH, 4y,ana /iOBHiiiTa kojhx Hna ie ne.Ma na
KCAOHCKOM H OCTa^HM 6a/IKaHCKHM jC3CpHMa, H OBe
KO.iH6e Koje /inue na na/iac})HTe, BepoBaTno cy 3naK
HeKor crapor, nac/ieljHBanor Hamnia pa,aa h >KHBora.
Flo TOMe ce â.'be bhah %a je Hojpan npBo6HTHO mo-
pao 6hth pH6apcKO nace/bc. Cousinl
IH,
HCTtiHa,
na ociiOBy AOKa3a kojh HHcy noyMiaiw, na y c/iobch-
CKOM CTaHOBHHUJTBy
Koa XepoAOTa
tobhx naKO/baua; to
pujcKoj
/iHTeparypn
n.via
H.\ia
je
KpBH crapnx
onnc jc3epa
II -'Olia.
ije
je3epo y reorpa<J)CKOJ H n:roca
hachth(J)HI
MaKcaoncKHM je3epHMa. Xcp

onncyie 6op6y
mje moMefyy riepcHJaHam H IleoHa. Ca.\io on,
nine
rao Mera6a3 &a cas/ia
rianreoHa h jeaepa
flpasHJac
A/u
1)1
HOBA CPBHJA
h npeMa oHHMa kojh cy ce HacraHHJiH Ha

caMOM je3epy, h to y rpafjeBHHaivia Ha KOJby, Koje cy 3a
3eMJbOM Be3aHe JCUHHM JCHHHHM yCKHM moctom. Kojbe
Ha KOMe doje OBe apBeHe craJHije #OHe;iH cy npBH
nyT 3aje^HO cbh qjiaHOBH orceMeHa h no6o;iH y je3epo;
ôuHHJe je yBezieH o6nMaj aa CBaKH kojh y3Me jenHy
>KeHy, a CBaKH je y3HMao BHtue eHa, Mopa aohcth TpH
Koua c njiaHHHe Op6e;ioc h no6nTH hx. CBaKH on fleOHaua HMa Ha obom Kony KOJiH6Huy y kojoj CTaHyje,
h Ha Hboj cy Bpaia, Ha noiiy K0^n6e, i<po3 Koja ce
cjia3u je3epy. Ma;iy Aeuy Be3yjy y3HU0M 3a Hory fla
xpaHe pnHe ynazmy y je3epo. KotBe h Terviehy
6aMa, kojhx HMa TaKO MHoro ,aa hm je ÔBOJbHO caMo
OTBopHTH BpaTaHua h cnycTHTH y je3epo Ha y3HUH
npHBe3aH npa3aH koui na #a ra noc/ie He 6aui Ayror BpeMeHa H3ByKy nyHor pn6e. u
FIoy3iiaHO je Aa cy HieoHH craHOBajiH y jyrohctomhoj MaKe,a;oHHJH h #a je ripa3HJac y tom Kpajy.
FIâHHHa IlaHreoH je âHaiuHDH FIpHap, H3Ha^ yuiha
CrpyMe h CTapor AivKJDHno/iHca. Op6e/ioc je Bejiacnua
h H>eHH orpaHUH H3Mei)y Axios-a h Strymon-a, to jeer
Bapiiapa h CrpvMe, Cousinery (Voyage dans la Macedoine, t. I., c. 93 h 180) je TaqHO HAeHTH(J)HKOBao XepoAOTOB f!pa3HJac c AaHaniHbHM JJopjaHCKHM Je3epOM;
Ha to HHJe o6pahaHa AOBOJbHO BejiHKa na>KH>a. A/ih
npeMa HajHOBHJHM ncnHTHBattHMa UBHJHha, Flapqa h
no., MO>Ke ce cMaTpaTH CKOpo Kao yTBplêHO n& je Flpa3Hjac AaHauiH>e ZlopjaHCKO Je3epo. XeponoT noMHtbe
Ha jyry on npa3HJe 3âTHe pyflHHKe, h XpH30xoc Haboah (no napweBy peapepaTy) #a je jy>KHO on ZlojpaHcKor Je3epa HaHinao Ha TparoBe CTapor pyâpcTBa. To
he MO)Ki*a 6hth TparoBH pa#a Ha MameTHTy.
noKyuiaj
amy
H3 noMeHyTe 6e;ieiiiKe XepoÔTOBe bhah ce aa

cy rieoHH cTaHOBa^H Ha cyBy, Ha n;iaHHHH FlaHreoHy",
h Ha je3epy. Flo TOMe je HajBepOBaTHHJe aa cy FleoHH
fIpa3HJaca 6h;ih pn6apcKa nêMeHa h #a cy 36or Tora
cTaHOBa.iH y naâcJ)HTHMa. 3aTO h naHauiH>H aojpaHckh pn6apH )KHBe Be/iHKH aeo ro^HHe y MOêpHHM
naâc})HTHMa, 3M(J3h6hjckhm jkhbotom.
flOJPAH H HjITOBA kot/ihha
155
HojpaHCKa KOT^HHa je Bp/io no6po Hace;beHa: y

o6âcTH Tbo/i-Bauiy, noil kojhm ce iimchom noApa3yMeBa CBa KOT/iHHa ca cbojhm okbhpom, n\ta hx oko 28
ce/ia. HaJBHiue hx je Ha ohoj oueziHOJ npocipaHOJ paBhhuh on ceBepo-HCTOHne o6a/ie 30 najHHe Be.iacHue.
no HdChoj no^ropHHH h Ha Bockh. BehHHa cy. ynpaBO
BHiue 03 ABe TpehHHe, TypcKa h/ih jypyHKa. Mucra cy
xpnujhaHCKa
cnoBeHCKa
ce/ia caMo: flaTapoc,
HHKy/inh, Hhmohu h Hyp6a;iH; HoH>e h Topê Top6acobo cy noMaHKa, noTypneHHx CnoBCHa, ocaM cy Me-
iiJOBHTa, a ocra/io cy CBe MyxaineaaHCKa.
BehHHa cy
no êceTHny nyha, a HajBeha cy .Hoite h Topiê rop6acoBO ca no 120 Kyha,

3aTHM, Matba, Ai<aHua;iH h Cyp.iOBO. OiOBeHCKa cy hh3e\uby. JypyuH
c{)/ihuh, ;iok Typun HMajy concTBeHy
cy Hace/w/iH OBy 06/iacT BepoBaTHO y hcto 306a Kan
h one KpajeBe nope^ OpcfiaHCKor 3a/iHBa.
Tnn MyxaMeâHCKHx ce.ia je OBaj OHa cy Ma/ia
h jano 36HJeHora THna H Ha TaKO \ia/iHM .aa^HHaMa
jya ue/ia ropiba paBan H3Meâ Kao jeziHO bc/ihko ce.io
ca MHorHM Maxa/iaMa h.ih KpajeBHMa. J\a je OBaKaB Tnn
y npHpoan JypyKa, jom 6oJbe ce bhah no ohh.m ce.iHMa
Koja .tc/Kc Ha na^HHH Be.iacHue noBHCOKO, h koa kojhx ce Mory jacHHJe yoMHTH H3ABOjeHe rpyne Ma;ia.
Ochm Tora naâ y omh Aa ohh npeTnocTae.i.ajy
rio.io>Kaje Ha hh>khm n.iaminaMa (na npHMep, BeujHK)
h.ih noAropHHaMa, rê cc pa/inje 6aBe CTonapcTBOM
nero 3eMôpaAfHOM, a c.ia3e y paBHune ca\io onit
Bp/io Ma;ia,
rAe
je 3eM;t>HUJTe
Bp.io n.iOAHO.
Kyhe cy hm MaxoM hhckc, jeAHOKaTue h cno;ba

paBunun o6hmho cy caivio
TeMe.'bH oa Ka.Mena, a 3Haobh oa hepnn ia, rioKpuBCHC
cy qeiuhe kpobhhom ho hepaMHAOM. OtfyltHHUC cy
Bp.io Ma/ie, necTO h 6e3 orpaAe. OBa ce.ia
:poneoKpeMene. Koa ohhx y
MaujHa, nycTa, 6ea 3c.ieHH.ia h cy.Mopna.

C/iOBeHCKa ce/ia cy Beha, raKohe 36HJeHOi tuna,
ho 6e3 Maxa/ia H KHBJba H ano cy miuJi.ihu.'
3aHHlfflb y kotvihhh je sembopiAiba, a nc>A lie.iacnIIOM
K
iTOMapCTBO; MaJBHllir HMI CHTHC
<>Ke,
<
HOBA CPBHJA
156
h OBaua, ajiH ce no JiHBaâMa h yTpHHaMa Hanacajy

Be^HKH ue-nenH BOJiOBa, KpaBa h 6HBo;ia. CBa je OBa
CTona MaxoM jypyqKa, jep cy HH(}HHJe caMO paTapH,
h omepeheHH no^.CKHM paÔBHMa totobo npeKO ue;ie
ro.nHHe.
Oa iuyMCKor .apBeha HMa y paBHH HaJBHuie ny6oBa, 6pecTOBa h AHBJbHX KpymaKa, a CTpaHe OKBHpa
cy MaxoM rojie h;ih no;; Me^HTepaHCKHM MaKHJaivia.
MecTHMHixe Ha BeâcHUH HMa 6yKOBe rope, riope^
o6a;ia h Monapa pacre rycT 6apcKH iueBap, a no
nojby HMa h npocTpaHHX yTpHHa ca ô6poM TpaBOM.
y BapoiHH ZlojpaHy totobo HCKJbynHBO 3aHHMafte xpniuhaHCKor cTanoBHHuiTBa je ph6o;iob, aok ce
TypCKO BHUie 6aBH
TprOBHHH H 3aHaTHMa. Je^HHO
OBê pa3BHJeH0 je Ma;io h rajette cbhjichhx 6y6a h;ih
K0)KypaKa M h to He pa^H, TproBHHe, i<ao oko TbeBiê^Hje, Beh ko/ihko je noTpe6Ho CBH/ie 3a n;ieTeH>e pH6apcKHx Mpe>Ka.
K/iHMa je Majio ouiTpHJa Hero oko BeuiHHKor Je3epa, jep HHi\o.e OBê HeMa Ky^Type naMyKa h MaaiHHa HapoqHTO cy 3HMe cryAeHe, TaKO jia ce noKa^HiTO 3aMp3He ueîo je3epo.
TypcKH ceJbauH hjih Jypyun Hdora cy rana h
ocodHHa Kao h ohh no BeuiHKy: OMaêHH, jaKO upHOMaibacTH h onajbenH; noByneHH h HenoBepjbHBH.
3Hajy caMO TypcKH h doje Ha npHMHTHBHOM CTynHby
^pyujTBeHor pa3BHTKa, jep HeMajy peAOBHHx uiKOîa.
PaAe caMO ohojihko ko/ihko hm je noTpe6HO 3a >khbot h He npehy ce ,na;ieKO,
o6hhho jio na3apa y
AKaHyajiy,
Ha
ZlojpaHy h
KOJHMa npoâjy HeuiTO on
CBOJHX CTOHapCKHX H 3eMJbOpaHHHKHX npOH3BOAa. Oneno hm je: upHe naKiunpe, ryn> c pyKaBHMa kojh
BHce ojx paMeHa, no3a#H mnpoK nojac, Ha rviaBH (J)ec,
oko Kora o6hhho yBHJajy inaMHJy hjih neniKHp, a Ha
noraMa onaHun. >KeHe hm ce Kpnjy on CTpanaua.
XpnujhaHCKH, CAOBeHCKH eJieMeHaT je npeMa Typ,
ckom Maô6pojan Kao peTi<o rjie y ztpyroj 06/iaerH.

OioBeHH cy noTMHHêHe h Bpe^He HH(})4HJe, kojh nope#
Tora qeuihe crpaâjy on 3yj\ywia cbojhx jaqnx cyceâ,
OniilTE
OCOBHHE JTOCHE MAKEAOHHJE
iuto Haj6o:be ÔKa.iyjy pa3opeHa
MHhmuh
HHhmcko
ce/ia
Ha ceBepHoj o6am\ je3epa. Oil
rt>Hx
h;ih
cy nonpH-
Ma.iH MHoro iuto ujTa o^ oAe.ia, roBopa h HawHHa >khBOTa: TaKO HMa hx ixocia kojh yBHJajy ujaMHJy oko
c{)eca, a y roBopy ynoTpe6/baBajy MHore TypcKc peHH
H ue/ie H3pa3e. Obo nooneiiibe ce HapoMmo ona>Ka
koa iiojpancKHx pn6apa, kojh y3a CBaKy Apyry. Tpchy
u
pen AOMehy TypcKy: ,/ieueK", (})eKaT
H iipyre. Y
bc^hkhm ce/iHMa non Bc/iacnuoM, HoibeM H TopfbCM
rop6acoBy, HMa C/iOBCHa MyxaMeânaua h.ih FIoMaKa
kojh hc 3najy TypcKH. Ohh cy npHMH.iH Hc.ia.M y ô6a
jypyqKe HaBa/ie y OBe KpajeBe na 6h caqyBa^H thmc
CBoja HMan.a,
Ma na je Xlojpan Ha Ba>KHOj >Ke:ie3HHHKOj npy3H
Co;iyH
Ccpc3 Uapnrpa^, nnaK je aa/icKO H30crao
rproBHHOM h npo.MeTOM on ohhx MecTa nopea BapAapa, na npniviep o.t. 'IbeBhje/iHJe. C Tora cy h KOMyHHKauHJe y oboj kot.ihhh BHiiie ziOKa/iHor 3nanaja. HajBa>KHHjH je onaj nyT npeKO ypKe h Boj.MHJe 3a dpyMHny, a h onaj hh3 Tbo/iajy 3a Kapacy.iH. y kot/ihhh
HMa join Asa Ba>KHHJa nyra jeiiaH boah hchoa Bockc
y AKaHua/iH, r\ae ce jcnaHnyT neiiejbHO p>KH na3ap
3a OHa ropfba ce.na, a apyrn ynopeô ca >Ke/ie3HHMKbM
,
npyroM y nopojcKO
no:be.
Cao6pahaj
je,
ochm
>kc.ic
3HHU0M, HCK/byniBO caMapcKH, MaxoM na KoibHMa, na

waK h na je;iHorp6HM KaMH.iaMa: y Bapoujn HMa je;iaH
TypMHH neKO/irfKO KaMH.ia h c ibHMa pajn khphumjckh
.jaHaT. Caoopahaj H3Meljy Bapoiun h >Kc.ic3iinHKe craHHue BpojH ce o6hhho npeBoweibCM na taMUHMa.
VII.
OnUJTE OCOBHHE iy>KHE MAKEAOHHJE
MaKeAOHHJy lime
apaMCKa kotjihhi
Jy>KHy
cepecKa h
Koje cy H3Met)y n.;i>: n KOJC hx

ziyncKa Kor.iHiia Ha ujhpoko ii
pa
co/iyncKa,
AOJpaHCKa,
iHcamiM yaojimiaifa,
B<
lopena,
158
HOBA CPBHJA
KpaTKy JeHHKejcKy KjiHcypy, a #paMCKa je KoiviHHa

hhckom nâHHHOM Chmbojiohom 3arpaf]eHa oa KaBa;iCKor 3a^HBa. CBe cy y odâcTH MeAHTepaHCKe K7inMe
h/ih cy H3;io>KeHe tbenHM jaKHM yTHuaJHMa. y hhx ce
cTHHy MHore peKe H3 OKO/mor n/iaHHHCKor 3eMJbnmTa,
Koje HaHOCHMa noM/iaijyjy j\ho ^KOiyiHHa h HaBOAfoaBajy ra. 3aio Jy>KHa MaKeÔHHJa cna.ua y HajnôAHHj'e
KpajeBe He caMO Ba^KaHCKor FIo^yocTpBa Beh Huejie
EBpone. Objxq. ycneBajy Ky;iTypHe hujhue BejiHKe Bpcnhocth. CepecKa KOTJiHHa Aaje HaJBHiue naiviyna oa cbhx
o6âcTH eBponcKe TypcKe, 3aTHM y 3HaTHOJ kojihmhhh
nc3HaTora TypcKor ^yBaHa". A;w rjiaBHa o6;iacT OBora
AyBaHa je ApaMCKa KOiviHHa c HyspaiviHJCKOM ynomihom, h ApaMCKO-Hy3paT^HJCKH AyBaH ce HaJBHiue ueHH;
Aajbe y oboj kotvihhh ycneBajy naMyK h opH3. y cojiyHCKOJ kotvihhh ce raJH naMyK, opH3 h TiyBaH (nocjie^hbH norjiaBHTO oko fla3apa), a y MervieHy, kojh
H36nja y KaMnatby, KyjiTHBHine ce nanpnKa y Behwvi pa3MepaMa; no3HaTO je Aajbe jxa ce OBê nonpaBH.ay.no6njajy roAHiuibe no ABe >KeTBe. CrpaHe KoiviHHa, HaPOhhto npncoJHC, noKpHBeHe cy BHHorpaAHMa, H HaJBHUie
ce ueHH rpo>Kê h bhho oa Hberyma h ryivieHue y co^yHckoj BaâHAOBa y Bojmhjh, 3aTHM ueôr ceBepHor OKBnpa
cepecKe KOT/wne. HdHna obh BHHorpaiiH no npocrpaHCTBy H30CTajy H3a thkbchikhx h crpyMHMKHx. Jano cy
pacnpocTpajbeHH ziyAHibauH h MHoro ce pa^n Ha cbh.lapcTBy. y HeKHM Bapotnnivia h ce/iHMa, Kao BoêHy,
TêBlje/iHjH h okojihhh, totobo cy CBe Kyhe yzieineHe
3a CBHîapCKH paA y CBHMa KOiviHHaMa ce ceje cycaM
h acJ)HOH. PacnpocrpahbeHe cy CMOKBe, 6aêMH, Ke-
deHH
h opacH, jxok cy MacjiHHKe Bp/io peTKe. H ano^

CBHMa KOiviHHaivia cejy >KHTa: Kynypy3,
nnreHHua, h Apyra.
Ha ceBepy on KoiviHHa cy Bp/io npocipaHe, naujHe
n.iaHHHe, 6oraTe ctokom, h CTonapcTBO je Bp;io Ba>KHa npnBpe^Ha rpaHa jy>KHO MaKe/ioHCKor craHOBiiHiHTBa. riope^
B/iaxa, H C.lOBeHCKO H TypCKO CTaHOBHHLUTBO Ce BeJIHKHM
Ae;iOM 6aBH o CTonapcTBy. rioujTO cy 0Be kot^hhc Me#HrepaHCKe kjihmc h 3hmh 3e/ieHe, to nâHHHCKH cTonapn,
napoMHTO B/iacn h Ap6anacH, c/ia3e y jeceH ca cbojom
cjieTKy ce y
onWTE OCOBHHE
JV>KHii
MAKEAOHHJE
ctokom y CBe noMeHyTe KOiviHHe, h 3aTO cy ohc 3Hmh

qecro npeKpH/beHe orpoMmiM crajHMa chthc ctokc
UpBeHa rparâ h hy.viyp, kojh ce Ha n.iaHHHaivia npaBH,
3HaTHH Cy npHXCaU CTaHOBHHLUTBa, THM 3HaTHHJH UJTO
Ha noc.ieTKy cy
cy nehH MaHra.iHMa OAMetbeHe.
jy)KHO-MaKeAOHCKe nâHHHe h py.iasia doraie, iiapomhto xpOMHTOM, ra.ieHHTOM, aHiHMOHHTOM, pyaaMa >Ke.ie3a, pea.irapoM h aypHnnrMCHTOM. A/ih je 3eM:bHiuTe
Bp/io CHpoMaujHO yr/beM, h, cyiiehH npeMa aocza no3HaTOM reoôujKOM cacraBy, He\ia H3Meâ ,ia he ce
HahH CTapHJH yrajb y BehHM KO/nmnnaMa.
A/ih nopea obhx npcayKaia n/iaHHHe h Ton/inx
H nJlORHHX KOT.IHHa, CTaHOBHHlilTBO Jy>KHe MaKe/lOHHJC
npHBpetjyje h HapoMHTHM HawnnHMa paiia kojh He y/ia3e
y no3Haie 6n;iaHue. TaKBH cy Ha npBOM Meciy npnxoan
oa na\)?i ca jeapH/iHMa, o KOJHMa ce 6aBe norviaBHTo Tpun.
He3HaTHHJH cy npHxoAH on nena/iCapcTBa, noiiiTo craHOBhhujtbo Jy>KHe MaKenoHHJe ne urq y ohhm pa3MepaMa
y neqa;i6y Kao ocra.io. HaJHe3HaTHHJH cy npiixcaw oa
napoMHTHX 3aHHMavha Kao ujto cy Bapunje (na npHMep
y KepeHKejy win riaj.saiby koa Co^yHa, r\ae ce CBe
CTaHOBHHUjTBO on 1.000 Kyha o tomc 63bh), KaMenopecuH (HapoHHTO o6pat)HBaibe MepMepa oa Bo3ara
h CMHihuue), ph6o.iob y Mopy h jc3epnna n apyra 3a-
HHMaiba."
ce
n CÔBeHH3HpaH.e Baponui je ohllith npouec kojh

napowHTO y npotn/iOM BeKy Bpinno y MaKeAOHHJH.
C/iobchh cy ce aoce.i>aBa;iH H3 ce/ia y Bapomn nomabhto 36or Belie HecnrypHOCTH no cemiMa. Jlounnje je
Ha to nocraja/ia oa cuq Beher yinuaja TOKiba no kojoj
cc ccocko CTanoBHHUJTBO CKyn/ba y nempHMa >khb;bera pa.ua h Kyjuypimjera >KHBOTa. 36or 0Ba ABa
y.-^poKa C/iobchh cy riper B/ia;ia/iH CKOpo y CBHMa a-
ponjHMa CKoncKe Crape CpGwje h CeBepHe MaKCAOnnje.

Hcth npouec ce BHJe y jeAHlKOJ Mepn H3Bpuino y kocobckoj h MdoxiijcKOJ Oapoj Cp6njH. nor/iaBHTo 36or
ap6aHaujKor CTanoBHHiiiTBa, Koje y BapoujHMa oapa/in |c
>KaBa wecTO Behy iiecurypnocr no no ce.iHMa
ochm Tora y Bapomn npnTHua/io Miioro6pojHO ap6aHaUJKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO OK0.1I1HC. V .K/KHOJ MaKC/lOHIlJH
;
H0BA CPBHJA
ibU
âHac cy Oiobchh y BehHHH naji TypuHMa h Tpumvia

caMO y BoAeHy, JlojpaHy, Kynymy h JIaHra3H. Tpun
HMajy BehHHy y HDcryiuy, Cepe3y h KaBa^H, a TypUH
y ria3apy, Bepy, HeMHp-Xncapy, 3n;baxoBy, JlpaiviH h
FIpaBHiiJTy. LLIto Oiobchh HeMajy no BapoiiJHMa Jy>KHe
ManeÔHHJe CBOjy BehHHy ochm noMeHyTa Herapn MeCTa, TOMe HHj'e pa3ôr HecHrypHocr hhth caadHJH ny;ic
>KHBOTa h pazia. HanpoTHB, to je o6a;iBOJe HanpeiiHHJe
y BapoiiJHMa Jy^KHe ho CeBepHe MaKe/ioHHJe. JeaaH
OA Ba>KHnx y3pona roptbe nojaBe je OBaj y mhofhm
KpajeBHMa jyHe ManeiioHHJe HMa Typana h TpKa h no
ce^HMa BHUje ho OiOBeHa. XLajbe, Oiobchh cy HMa;iH
.aa H3p>Ke y BaponiHMa Jy>KHe MaKe/iOHHJe
Be^HKy
KOHKypeHUHjy c Tpunivia h U.HHuapHMa, 3aTHM c JeBpeJHMa h JepMeHHMa, kojhx cbhx Hivia MHoro BHine y BapomHMa Jy>KHe ho CeBepHe MaKeAOHHJe.HaKo cyjy>KHOMaKeÔHCKH OlOBCHH BpJIO IHTe/lJbHBH H HHTCHHreHTHH,
h aKO cy, AO/iasehH ca ce;ia y BapouiH, npHCBOjn;iH
no3Haie JieBaHTHHCKe norêê Ha cbct, 6e3 kojhx He
6h moivih no BapoujHMa HanpejiOBaTH, nnaK HHcy moivih, 36or noMeHyTHx KOHKypewaTa, pcnaTHBHO OHaKO
HanpeAOBaTH Kao no BaponiHMa CeBepHe MaKeflOHHj'e.
A;ih ce Oiobchh npn cbcm tom CBe BHUje ocehajy h
HaMHOwaBajy h y caMOM Co/iyHy h Cepe3y.
YTBpêHO je
cy BapouiH Jy>KHe MaKeziOHnje
Bp/io crape, ochm Tora y BehHHH or HdHx npeoB/iar^yjy Tpun c LI,HHuapHMa, Typun h JeBpeJH, no npe,aHcno3HUHJH BapoujKH cneMeHTH (AHTponoreorpa(})CKH
npo6/ieMH Ba^KaHCKor I~lo;iyocTpBa. Hace;ba I). HdhXOBO CTaHOBHHIHTBO CKOpO Ce HCKJbyHHO 6aBH
TpTOBHHH H 3aHaTHMa, He H
3eMJbopaAH>H, Kao IHTO
actiom CTaHOBHHUJTBa, MaxoM
je cnyMaj ca 3HaTHHM
Mâ^HX, HapoMHTO mhcto cpncKHX h 6yrapcKHX BapouiH
y ceBepHHM e;iOBHMa Ba^KaHCKor rio/iyocrpBa.
OcTaâ Hacejba no cojiyHCKOJ, 'aojpaHCKoj, cepecKOJ h ^paiviCKOJ cy norviaBHTO MH(J)^yuH, peê cjio6o#Ha ceâ, KaAiHTO h MeniOBHTor Tnna, aKO ce jeZiaH êo ce^.aKa OTKynno. Ochm TpaKHje HHi\ae HeMa
y TypcKOJ BHine MH^HKa, hhth je HBpiuhH MHT.iy^KH
CHcreM, ho y obhm paBHHM h nô^HHM o6âcTHMa Koje
:
OllUJTfc
OCObfc.
KH MAKEJOHr
lbl
cy cy.iTaHH oaMax no ocBOjett>y japHBa/iH Kao THMape

h 3HjaveTe, h no KOJHMa je HaccbaBaHO TypcKO 3eMjbopaaHHHKO craHOBHUJTBO H3 Ma.ie Ajhjc A-ih HMa
wajeBa ja cy c.io6o;iHa ce.ia nocra/ia MHT.iyuiiiia
ujto cy ce y HeBO."bH npoja.ia h.ih ujto hm ce
KakaB CH.iaH TvpwHH HaMemyo 3a 6era. Ce.io npHnaja
h.ih jejHOM 6ery. h Taja je jeaaH wrjiyic, h.ih je noje.i>eHO Ha jBa h.ih BHine 6eroBa, h Taja ce cacrojH
H3 BHUje MHT.iyKa. BeroBH rpaae HHT.iyqKe Kyhe, a.iH
H>HMa npHnajajy h OHe Kyhe h.ih craje Koje 6h caMH
3eM,"bH carpajH.in. BeroBH cy
ce.*baiiH Ha oeroBCKOj
nor.iaBHTO Typun, Kainio Fpun, JeBpejn h /IeBaHI
thhuh, cacBkM peiKO Giobchh. Mh*hhjc ce 30By opaHH

h.ih japuyuje (Hano/iHHapH), h nor.iaBHTO Ha toHMa noHHBa MHT.iyMKa CHoreMa, 3aTHM aj.baKHuje h.ih momuh,
kojh HeMajy CBOJe Temehe croKe, h 3aT0 He Mory no-
y CBaKOM
MHi/iyKy HMa cy6aina, Typhhh h.ih ApoaHac, kojh 6era 3acryna, MOTpehH Ha
ce.i>aKe, Ha noje.iy xpaHe h jpyrnx npoH3Boja H3Mef)y
6era h Hw(})qHja. Oh nocTaB/ba ceJMene, kojh qyBajy
japHUHJcKeH>Hse. fIoo6.iHKyH pacnopejy K>ha HMa aaa
THna MHT.iyKa. JejHH cy reoMeTpnjcKor o6*iHKa, noil
japHunje.
crpojeHH Kao KBaapaT h.ih npaBoyraoHHK, a jpyrn H3r/iejajy Kao ce/ia 36HJeHa h.ih pa3peêHor THna obhx
paBHHixa.
ripHMepH npBHx MHT.iyKa cy To.ioc y cepecKoj

KOT.1HHH H K'OMaMap.lHJa Ha HCTOHHOJ o6a.1H AMaTOBCKor Je3epa. Ma.io 6o."bH yTHcaK MHHe mht.i>uh jpyre
Bpcre, y KOJHMa craHOBH nncy noa hcthm kpobom h
y KOJHMa je c.io6oja KpeTan>a Beha. ripHMep OBora
THna je ce.io h'yrfa.WBO y Co.iyHCKOj KavnatbH.
CBe HenoKpeTHO HMatbe. 3CM/ba h 3rpaje, npnnajajy 6ery, a noKpeTHO, a.iaT, CTOKa h jpyro, npn3 japnuHJH.
Flo/ia ceMeHa jaje 6er, a no.ia japnUHJa. Oj .ieTHHe ce Hajnpe h3abojh uapcKH neceiaK,
o Kowe cbh car.iacHO TBpje aa 6HBa yBeK BehH oj
jeceTHHe. Ocra-io noae/ie Ha jeaHaKe aenoBe 6er h
UHJa. FIpeMa TOMe 6h japnuHJa Tpe6ao ja jo6nje
ieTHHe. Be.ie ja ao6njajy caMO 30
.
UCBA CPMUA
11
HOBA CPBHJA
162
Japnunja jiajbe Aaje 6ery neTBOpa KOJia ApBa roAHiUHae,

aKO HMa rope y oko^hhh. Ako 6er HMa Apyre seMjbe
ocHMHHT^yKa, japHijHJe Mopajy Ha H>oj no HeKOJiHKO AaHa
roAHiutfee KyjiyHHTH.
Ako
japm,inja
Kynn rAe HnBy, 6er
rvieAa Aa oh Ty 3eMjby o6pai)yje. Ako HHj'e

#y>KaH, japHunja Moace HanycTHTH 6era h tteroB HhiviyK.
Tokh je no;io>Kaj MOMaKa hjih ajjbaKHHJa. Ohh
HeMajy CTOKe hh 3eMjbopaAHH4KHx cnpaBa, h o6pat)yjy
6eroBCKy 3eM^>y Kao HajaMHHUH, AodHBajyhn xaK:
CTaH, xpaHy h 100
120 rpoma roAHLHH>e. Ber hx
MO>Ke yBeK ca HHiviyKa KpeHyTH. HMa h TaKBHx ajjbaKHHja KOJH caMO daHyjy Ha HHiviyKy, nâhajyhn CTaH
h KyjiynehH 6ery h;ih cydauiH hcko^hko AaHa roAHiutbe.
Ohh necTo o6paljyjy Apyre 3eM/be, Koje HHcy 6eroBCKe, h MaxoM Ao6njajy BHuie oa npHHOca aceTBe ho
japnuHje. Ohh Mory TaKO HMyhHHJH nocTaTH, a;m to
ce, TBpAe, He CMe ca3HaTH, jep aKO A03Ha 6er, Aahe
hm Ha cn;iy d3uezap h^h japHUH/iyK.
Hepaô
japnuHja h aj^>aKqHJa nâhajy ochm AeceTKa

h OBe uapcKe AaHKe h/ih AaBaHHHe" 6adejb yum bojHHuy, eexuAUHy hjiu AaHaK 3a H3ApH<aBatt>e uapcKHx
jbyAH KaA cy Ha nyiy, h joAiiapecu, AaHaK 3a nyieBe;
nocêAH>H ce AaHaK MO)Ke c Tpn AaHa roAumtbe oTKy:
JiyHHTH.
KaA
y o63Hp, japHi^ja Aodnje ronoBOJbHOM cjiynajy 30% CBOJe 3apaAe.

HnT^yuH reoMeipHJcKHX o6;iHKa hjih c pa3pel)ehhm KyhaMa, kojh H3 AaîeKa Kao upHe roMH;ie H3rvieAajy, BaataH cy cneMeHaT y reorpa(})CKOJ cjihuh jywHOMaKeAOHCKHX paBHHua. no H>HMa ce AaJbe bhah h
CJiHKy AonyHâBa H3MyHeH0 h qecTO (})H3H4kh yniviaô,
AHume
ce CBe y3Me
npjbaBO h oro/iejio HHiviyqKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO, Koje ce

BeKOBHMa MyqH noA onncaHOM ckohomckom HajaMHHikom CHdeMOM. Oho je HCTHHa yCnjeHora Ayxa h c
MHoro poncKHx oco6HHa, a;iH je y tbeiviy noA AyroTpaJHHM npHTHCKOM HaroMH;iaHa BejiHKa cyMa eHeprnje
3a noKpeT, ocrôêifce h Mopa^Hy eBOJiyuHJy."
163
co/ivh
yiii.
ccriVH.
TaKO Aa/ieKO Ha
jyr h nouuTO je 3aB/ia,aa/ia CKopo ue/iOM MopaBCKOBapâpcKOM yaojbHHOM, ona je THMe nocTa/ia rocnoaap
ue/ie OHe no3aAHHe h ohhx reorpa(})CKHX /iHHHJa koJHMa je ycrcoB/ben reorpa(})CKH no/iowaj h HanpeâK
Co.nyHa. Co.iyH na Taj naMHH nocTaje Haj6.iH>Ke h HajnpHpoAHHJe npHCTanHiine cpncKO. FIopeA npnjaTejbckhx Be3a Koje nocTOJe H3Meby TpMKe h Cp6nje, h
obh he MOMeHTH 3HaTHO aonpnueTH Aa MaKeaoHHJa
h Oapa Cp6nja Hehe H3ry6nTH 3Hanaj co/iyHCKe eKOHOMCKe nosa^HHe, hhth he Co/iyH 6hth oiuTeheH Kao
mopcko npHCTaHHLUTe. H3 obhx pa3/iora roBopwheMO
o Co/iyny BHiue ho iuto Iicmo roBopiiTH o xipyrHM
MecTHMa i<oja ce Ha.ia3e H3BaH rpaHHua npouiHpeHe
Cp6nje.
0,1 ohhx MOMeHaTa kojh cy yc.iOBH.nH bc/ihkh
rioniTO ce Cp6HJa
npoiuHpn/ia
obh. Y H>eMy ce CBpHajnpocrpaHHJa h najnpoxonHHJa 6a/iKancKa HH3HHCKa .THHHJa, MopaBCKO-Bap/iapcKa yô;t>HHa.

{-bene aHTponoreorpaijKKe BpeaHOcru cy Beii
jiobo^jHo HCTaKiiyTe. 3a Co.nyn je o# Ba>KHOCTH ujto
Ta .THHHJa H36nja na naj^y6.-bH, HajnpocTpaHHJH h najsaK.ioii.L'HHJH 3a/iHB Ba-iKaHCKor Ilo^yocTpBa. Co/iynckh 3a/iHB je OTBOpcn, c.io6o;jaH, HCMa Mopey3HHa KO
JHMa ce MO>Ke .naKO :*aTBopnTH h HMa c/io6oAHHJe h
pa3H0BpCHHJC BC3C C OCTa/lHM flC/IC BHMa Cpeao3eMHor
pa H Ca CBHMa CBCTCKHM nOMOpCKHM KOMyHHKaUHja.\ia no HJeâH /ipyrn ;ieo ncnyocrpBa, H3y:ieB FpHKC.
co y3iiy y o63up ahmch3Hjc ne.ior flo^yocTpBa
h ny6Hiia Co.iyncKor 3a.iiiBa, no/ionoj Co.iyna hhjc
nepHcjicpHJCKH, Bcii ce bhiuc npnG/iHwyjc ueHTpa.iHOM.
Ha Taj naunti Ccwiyfl je no cbom reorpaijKKOM no/io>Kyjy OApeljeH :ia ca6npa iiajpa3H0BpcnHjc BC3e bc/imkhx AC/iosa Ilo.iyocTpBa. Hope^ cbhx obhx MOMenaTa,
*a Co/iyn je OM na>KH0CTH
H to uito HMa naJKpahe
3nawaj Co/iyHa
maBa
naJBa>KHHJH cy
iiaJKpalia,
ca
ic
one
iiHJn.M
CpeAH>OM Eaponon h <.a CyecKHM Katia.ioM

iiobo.'i.hc ocoohhc ywHHH.nc cy COJiyH naJBa*
nDHMOpCKOM napoiun
u.nor
no/iyocrpBa.
HOBA CPBHJA
164
Co;iyH je y CBa HdopHJcKa BpeMeHa 6ho jenHa or

HaJBaH<HHJHX 6a^KaHCKHx BapoiuH. y HOBHJe BpeMe
noMeo je Harjio HanpeiiOBaTH or KaKO je npoceneH
CyecKH KaHa/i h carpaêHa MopaBCKO-BapnapcKa h 6hTOJbCKa >Keê3HHixa. Or Ta/ia je Co/iyH nociao HajBa>K*
HHJe npHCTaHHIUTe 3a H3B03 CHpOBHHa 6a^KaHCKHX 3eMajba h 3a opneHTa;iHy TproBHHy hckhx cpeAibe-eBpon^
ckhx Ap>KaBa, HapOHHTo HeMaMKe h Aycrpo-yrapcKe.
Oh je ROcaRa. 6ho rviaBHo H3B03HO Medo EBponcne
TypcKe h HajBa>KHHJe npHcraHHUJTe BajiKaHCKor riojiyocrpBa. H3 H>era ce H3B03e cbh npoayKTH cyccaHHx
o6âcTH, HapoHHTO >KHTa, naMyK, .ayBaH, kokohh, MaK,
cycaM, CTOKa, ByHa, Koace, K03ja ;uiaKa h pyiie. 3HaTaH
je h yB03 eBponcKHX hhayctphjckhx npoH3BOiia h kojiOHHa^HHx ecnana. y Co/iyHy HMa h hcko^hko (J)a6pHKa 3a H3pa^y naMyKa, KO>Ke, MeTa/ia, 6oja h canyHa,
3aTHM BHLiJe napHHX MJIHHOBa.
y cTapoM h cpejin>eM Beny CojiyH je 6ho jejiHa
OR HaJBa>KHHJHX, flOUHHJe H HaJKyJITypHHJHX rpqKHx BapouiH. Or 1430 ncmntt>y ce y \b HacejbaBaTH Typun,
kojhx HMa oko 30 40 OOOr ripn Kpajy 16 Bena Hacejih/ih cy ce uinaHCKH JeBpejn h;ih CecfiapduM, or kojhx
je je.naH aeo npHMHO HaiaM. Taj zieo 30Be ce JJoHMe
una MaMiiH. flpBHx HMa oko 60 70.000, a japyrnx oko
10.000. TpKa je 3a TypcKor BpeMeHa 6hjio 20
25.000.
Bpoj OiOBeHa HaponHTO pacre, oco6hto or KaKO cy
npecrajiH npeianaTH ce y TpKe. Bnhe hx oko 10000
Aytna. Ha nocaeTKy HMa JleBaHTHHaua h EBponjbaHa
oko
8.500.
npn6^H>KHO
he
6hth
Co^yHy
oko
160.000 ayiua.
no 6pojy h no >KHBOTy h pa^y, HaJBa>KHHJe co/iyHCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO cy JeBpejn. Ohh cy no3HaTH He

caMO Kao HHTejinreHTHH h OKpeTHH TproBUH, Beh cy h
4)H3hhkh CHa>KHH, TaKO rz Bpuie HaJTe>Ke HOcaHKe h npnCTaHHiUHe nooiOBe. Mefyy co^yHCKHM ct3hobhhqjtbom
npeacTaBâjy HecyMibHBO HajcHa>KHHJy pacy. Hncy iiaKJie (J)H3hmkh AereHepHcaHH Kao ujto ce HHane necTO
ona>Ka ulor JeBpeja. Ctea je nojaBa 36or Tora join nyRHHJa UJTO je OBO CTaHOBHHUJTBO na HH>KCM cryrifby
Ky/iType, ujto HeMa ce/ia H3 kojhx 6h ce moivih (j)H-
oonyH
165
3HMKH o6HaB. baTH h ujto ce BeoMa peTKO yKpiuTajy

c ^pyrHM pacaMa. H3rvie;ia na hx oiipwaBa Bp/io ype*)eH HBpCT nopOAHHHH >KHBOT H y60Ka CpOAHHMKa
r
A>y6aB. riopcA JeBpeja y Co.nyHy ce ona>Kajy HajBHiue
TpuH h JleBaHTHHUH. Fpun cy noc/ie/iibHx êceT no

ABaêceT roiiHHa 3HaTHO nocpHy/in h y CBHMa noc/io
BHMa ycryKHy/in npeA JeBpeJHMa. Ha TproBHHy cy on
Be^HKor yTHuaja EBponjbanH, kojhx HMa cra.iHO h npnBpeMeno Hace.fbeHHx; to cy MaxoM TproBUH h iproBaMKH
hhhobhhuh >Ke;ie3HHm<Hx, boaoboahhx h noLUTaHCKHX anpeKunja, HH>KehbepH h npeiiy3HMaMH. hfc>HxoBa je Te>KJba aa y KpaTKo BpeMe cieKHy, na aa ce
BpaTe y CBOJy 3e\i;by. 36or toi a je h.hxob paA h TproBHua MaxoM eKcn/ioaTaTopcKH. y XVIII Beny EBponjbanH cy no oko/ihhh co^yHcnoj ap>Ka/iH MHT/iyKe,
kojh cy ce o;yiHKOBa/iH zienHM 6aujTaMa h BH/iaMa. y
ropibHM, na h y cpezubHM c/iojeBHMa TpKa, JeBpeja h
JleBaHTHHaua, na pa3H0BpcHe nawnne oceha ce noBpniHa
3ana;iHO-eBponcKa Ky/nypa h pacnpocTpaibeno je 3Haibe
(J)paHuycKO-.ieBaHTHHCKor je3HKa. OBa >KHBa h c/ioGoiwa
Bapoiu, y kojoj je nopeA uapnrpaACKe Flepe h Tanaie
6h.io HajBHiue /ihmhc hmobhc 6e36eAHOCTH y TypcKOJ,
npHB/iaqn/ia je mhoto h C/iOBeHe ca ce.T h cyceinnx
BapoiuH, h ohh cy ce y nocêAibHM iieueHHJaMa naMHO>kh/ih y Co/iyHy h nnne hee nepnqbepHJcKe KpajeBe.
Me^y ibHMa ce pa3;iHKyjy ABa e.iCMeiiTa: cpncKH h 6yrapcKH rproBUH, saTHM CaujTOBanH h pajxnHUH tokhx
h rpy6;bnx noc/iOBa Co/iyH je y uo.ihhh Bapoui MeujOBHTor, HCTOMfbawKor h MeAmepaHCKor THna, nownibc
Ha o6a/iH MopcKoj kcjom, na komc naaa y own BeacKy/ia, Kojy cy BepoBaTHO M/iennhH rpaAH.in, ocra;ia
Bapouj neibe ce oAaBAe aMqbmcaTpaAHO ao ciapor
rpa.aa JeAHKy/ie-Ka/iecn, na mhjoj ce Bp/io crapoj ochobh
AH>ny 3haobh, BehuM ac.iom H3 M/ieTaqKe enoxe. V
BapoujH cy i<ylie c/ia6e, MaxoM TypcKO-opnonTa/icKor
THna h apBCHe rpafye. rio3HaT je co/iyncKH 6e3HCTCH,
kojh npeAcniBJba neny jo
y.inny npcKpuBcuy apb:hhm KpoBOM; y lbOMy cy Ayhann muxom OTBoponn, po6a
"Miecona CKOpo CBa Hano.be H unsa/ia hcm3 cbctôcth
hh CBewa Ba3Ayxa, Te ce Bp.io Mecro ona>Kajy mnoBH
areHTH,
my
HOBA CPBHJA
166
H3HypeHH h 6;ieAH. Ha jyro-HCTOKy or Bea3-Ky;ie je

hobh Haj/ienuiH rqo BapoiuH, Ka/iaiviapHJa, ayranaK hh3
BH/ia, c^hmhhx OHHMa Koje ce BHâjy Ha Kpcjiy h FIpHHKHny koa UapHrpaâ.
IX.
3AHAAHA MAKEAOHMJA.
a.)
no
BpcjaMKa o6jiacT,
cbojhm reorpa(})CKHM Be3aivia h njiacnmKHM

oco6HHaMa, 3anaAHa MaKeAOHHJa ce 3HaTHO pa3;iHKyje
or HdOHHe MaKeAOHHJe h rojihhq Bapaapa. 3anaHa
ManeiiOHHJa ce Ha;ia3H H3Me^y Ap6aHHJe h rioBapâpja.
Ap6aHHja ce OAJiHKyje bhcokhm h 36njeHHM BeHUHivia,
ycKHM h K^HcypacTHM AO^HHaMa, h iijihtkom h HenpHCTynaHHOM o6a;iOM. XtojiHHa Bapâpa npeAcraBJba Ay6oKy HH3HHCKy jiHHHJy, Koja upoâ3H Kp03 cpezuiHy
ManeaoHMJe h MHore o6;iacTH roboru y Be3y c MOpeM.
OHa HMa HHTHMHHJe Be3e C HCTOHHOM MaKeAOHHJOM
ho ca 3anaAHOM, 36or Tora iuto KOiviHHe Hctohhc MaKeAOHHJe mxy nonpenHO Ha npaBau, BapâpcKe aojihhc
h npeMa tt>oj cy OTBopeHe, a o;iHHe 3anaAHe ManeAOHHJe nay napa.ieJiHO c aojihhom Bap/japa, MaxoM y
npaBixy ceBep-jyr, TaKO #a ce c HdOm HHrê He rorvlpyjy h HHcy OTBopeHe npeMa iboj. flaKJie, npBH y3poK
ujto je Sana^na MaKenoHHj'a OABOJeHa or rojiuhq BapAapa AOâ3H or npaBua npyaotba h>chhx KOiviHHa.
HpyrH y3poK je y TOMe lqto cy CBe KOiviHHe 3anaxiHe
MaKeAOHHj'e or BapâpCKe #o;iHHe OABOJeHe bcnhkhm,
n/iehaTHM n;iaHHHaMa, Kao uito cy Hhmc, Ce-aenKa, Ba6yHa h To leniHHua. Flopcn. Tora Tpe6a HcrahH h obo.
Ho^HHe3anaAHO-MaKeAOHCKHx peKa, Koje TeKy y npaBuy
3ana,n;-HCTOK, h Koje 6h no cbomc npaBuy 6Hê 31 OAHe
3a ycnocTaBJbatbe Becsa H3Mel)y 3ana;uie MaKeônHjc
H Bapâpa, HMajy MaxoM o6;ihk peHHHX >KApe;ia, TecHaua h KJiHcypa, TaKO rz cy Ha MHorHM MecTHMa npocto nenpHCTynaMHe. 36or TaKHX 06/iHKa HHcy ce mojvih
pa3BHTH Ao6pH nyieBH hh Ry>K Upue hh y3 TpecKy.
3a cao6pahaj c rioBapaapjeM ocTa^H cy bhcokh n;rahhhckh npeBOJH h npece/uiHHe Koje ce Aajy /iaKO 3a-
SAfUmHA MAKKflOHHJA
TBopHTH, u Koje cy 36or BCTHKe BHCHHe h ctpmchhthx
naiiHHa 3roAHe CKopo HCK/byqnBO 3a khphuhjckh cao6pahaj. TaKBe cy npeceA/iHH.: IlpeBTHC H3Metjy KopqaHCKe h npecnaHCKe kot/ihhc, IlpncaT H3Met)y ne;iaroHHJCKe KOT.iHHe h peKe Ba6yHe, h fl/ieTBap H3Met)y
THKBema
h ne/iaroHHJCKe kot/ihhc Cbh obh momchth

yTHua^H cy Ha to iuto je 3anaAHa MaKeaoHHja npeMa
ocra/iHM .aeÔBHMa MaKe/iOHHJe ocra;ia 3aTBopeHa, iuto
je >KHBeâ AOHek;ie oaBOjeHHM >khbot, h luto HMa toJIHKO CBOJHX HHAHBHJXya^HHX OC06HHa.
OBe o6.iacTH cy OTBopeHe jenHHO npeMa Co^vhckoj KaMnafbH, h H>HMa npo/ia3H cnoMenyTa Via Egnatia CaMO^Taj aeo npeACTaB.'ba npe;ia3Hy 06/iacr H3Mel)y Hotter noBapaapja h Ap6aHHj'e.
3anaAHa MaKeÔHHJa ce cacTojH on obhx mecT
npocTpaHHX KOT.iHHa. HaJHCTOHHHJa je KOT^HHa CapuIjoa, y Kojy cnaâ 11 oGâcT oko OcrpoBCKor Je3epa.
hbeH ckohomckh ueHTap je Bapoinnua CypoBHMeBO.

3ana;iy on CapHtjo.ia je FleAazoHiija h/ih 6uiuoA>chO-upiueucKa KoiuAUHa. y \ho\ HMa TaKO mhoto BapoiHH Aa ce no 6pojy h bc/ihhhhh BaponiH He Mowe
c ihOM ycnopet)HBaTH Hnje^Ha Apyra o6;iacT Ba/iKaHCKor rio.iyocTpBa Koja 6h 6n/ia H>eHe Be;iH iHHe. HajBa>KHHJe cy Baponin: Bhto^>, ripn/ien, KpyuieBO h JlepHH. CeBepo-3ana^HO on OBe je Ma/ia KOT^HHa }KeAe3huk h/ih IXeMup-Xucap, y kojoj ce Kao ckohomckh
ueHTap pa3BHja ce/io npH6n/iua. 3ana#HO on Fle/iaroHHJe je upecuancKa komaiiho. h/ih Flpecuci, y kojoj cy
ABa je3epa, FIpecnaHCKO h Ma/io. P/iaBHa cy MecTa Pecan h HnKO/ieu. BehH Aeo OxpudcKe koiuauhc 3ay3HMa je3epo, Ha mhjhm cv o6a.naMa BapouiH h BapouJHue: OxpHA, Crpyra, FIoju pa;ieu h CrapoBa. C obom
kot/ihhom je na ceBepy Be3ana Ma/ia, a/in >KynHa, n/iozina h rycTO Hace/bena KOT/inna He6pii,a, oko ropn>er
h cpeîber TOKa peKe CaTccKe, y kojoj ce pa3BHJa .ioKa.iHH ucmap 3aer7iaBe. Ha jyry on OxpnacKe je
KopHdHCKCl KOUIAUHCI C BapOUJH KopHOM. V BC3H Ca 3anaaHO-MaKCAOHCKHM KOT/innaMa cy Ue6ap h Pena Ha
ceBepy, h/ih kot/ihhc oko Pa/iHKe h n>emix npnTOKa
Ha
eve w Ma/ie PeKe.
HOBA CPbHJA
168
M noje^HHe 3ana,nHo-MaKe;iOHCKe KOTKHHe Me^yco6ho cy Be3aHe bhcokhm npece^HHaMa, KOJHMa cy

caMO H3y3eTHO 6hjih HaHHiteHH Ao6pH uyieBH. 36or
Tora ce Hapo^HH >khbot y nojeflHHHM KOTjiHHaivia pa3BHJao cKopo He3aBHCHO oil )KHBOTa ycycejiHHM KOT/IHHaMa. HaJBHiue cy H3o;ioBaHe h o^bojchc OxpnziCKa h
FIpecnaHCKa KoTJiHHa. HapoMHTO jvhchh acjiobh nocrce/ufce kotjihhc Ta o^bojckoct je H3a3Ba.na MHore
pa3^HKe Koje ce ona>Kajy y HapoAHOM >KHBOTy noje-
AHHHX
KOTJIHHa.
CKopo cacBHM
on. obhx KOT^HHa cy OABOjeHe

3aTBopeHe nJiaHHHCKe KOT;iHHe y CeBepHoj MaKeAOHHJH Khhcbo, flope 1! h 3ajac.
Kaumci. H3Met)y obhx KouiHHa h oko fr>HX cy
BHCOKe nâHHHe, Koje cy MaxoM npeKO 2000 m. bhcokc,
ruiehaTe h ca npocTpaHHM 3apaBrt>eHHM TeivieHHMa. VCJieA 3HaTHHX BHCHHa H Be/IHKHX KO^HMHHa aTMOC(})epckhx Tajiora kojh najjajy y obhm 06/iacTHMa, tbHxoBa
K^HMa je MHoro CBe>Knja ho iuto 6h ce to momo 3aKJbynHTH npeMa h>hxobom reorpa(j)CKOM no/io)Kajy. Ha
CBHMa njiaHHHaivia h JieTH HMa bctchkhx CHe>KaHHKa, kojh
ce Tone, xpaHe MHoro6pojHe H3Bope h noTOKe, h y
HHCKe cyBJbe o6;iacTH inajby orpoMHe KOJiHHHHe boac
36or Tora je K/iHMa Ha nâHHHaMa h JieTH CBeaca, a
Hohn cy h y HaJTonjiHJHM jieTtbHM MeceuHMa TaKO xjiaAHe #a ce TeivinepaTypa Ba3yxa npe,n, 3opy npH6;iH>Kyje Tamm CMp3aBaH>a. YnpaBO 36or OBaKHx nâcTHhkhx npnJiHKa, Ba3Ayx je y KOTJiHHaMa h /ieTH cbok,
HapoHHTO y jyTpy h y Bene, Kazia y hckhm KOT^HHaMa,
Kao Ha npHMep y 6HTOJbCKO-npH;iencKOJ, rpaHHHH ca
xjia^HohoM. Mhhh ce na 6h 3anaflHO-MaKe;iOHCKe kotjihhc, 6e3 obhx n;iaHHHa, y npnoc cbojoj 3HaTHOJ anco^yTHOj bhchhh, no caMOM cBOMe reorpa(})CKOM no;iO)Kajy, Mopaê HMaTH MHoro Tonjinjy, cyBJby, JieTH
qaK h HecHOCHy K;iHMy, oa npn^HKe OHany KaKBy
HMajy KOT^HHe JIoFber h Cpeêr rioBapâpja. To
ce, y ocrajioM, oceha no ohoj 3anapn h hcchochoj Bpyhhhh Koje y dHTO^CKO-npHêncKOJ kotjihhh h Capnfyo/iy saBââjy hhm nacTane thxo BpeMe h hhm npeCTaHy $$. flyBajy ohh pa3HH noBeTapun kojh c pa3-
Ma;ie h
3AriAAHA MAKEflOHHJA
169
hhx nâHHHa AO.ia3e h H3 pa3HHX npaBaua ayBajy, na

ocBewaBajy h pacxâ^yjy 3arpejaHH Ba3yx. /IeTH>e
>Kere y KOT/iHHaMa cy HnaK necTe, h 36or Tora iuto
cy AHa KcnviHHa o6hhho ro/ia, 6e3 iuyMe h Ce3 TpaBe,
OHe cy hbk h HecHOCHe. MecTO ce jiecu aa 3a BpeMC
thx >Kera, Kan je 3eM/ba 3arpejaHa, \ayHy jaMH BeipoBH
h iiHTHy CH/iHe Mace necKa m 3eM.be h ue/ie 06/iacrH
noKpHJy o6/iauHMa on npaiuHHe. TaKBe nojaBe wecre
cy HapoMHTo y CapHtjo/iy.
Be/IHKa BHCHHa, jaKH BeTpOBH H 3HaTHa MHO>KHHa
aTMOC(})epcKHx Ta.iora H3a3HBajy hco6hmho xâ^He h
CHeroBHTe 3HMe, Koje ce cwiHKyjy jaKHM HfteM h Meciom MaMOM 3a BpeMe 3hmckhx Meceuw KOT/iHHe cy
BeoMa qecTO noKpHBeHe rycTOM h B/ia>KHOM Mar/ioM
Kojy 30By CHhbaK". y Te aaHe MecTO ce ona>Ka na cy
BHtiie noBpiuH H3HaA KOT.iHHa, napoMHTO OHe no npHcojhhm CTpaHaMa, orpejaHe cyHueM, noje ce Ha chokhom noKpHBaqy 6/beniTH. Taâ je peÔBHO y MarvioBHTHM KOT/IHHaMa XAa^HHJe HO Ha BHLHHM nOBpiHHMa,
Koje cy cynnaHe h ocBeT/beHe. 36or Tora je y bhco-
KHM UHHUapCKHM BapOUJHliaMa H Ce/IHMa 3HMH Ton/iHJe

HO y 6HTO/LCKOJ KOT/IHHH, y KOJOJ TCMnepaTypa 3HMH
MO>Ke aa naAHe #0 30 HcnoA Hy;ie. To 3Hajy cbh crahobhhuh bhcokhx uHHuapcKHx Hace:ba, KpyujeBa, Toneuja, MarapeBa h TpHOBa. Hera nojaBa, caMO y Maiboj MepH, oiawa ce h y CapHtjo.iy.
OBana CKcecHBHa K/iHMa, Koja ce ozi/iHKyje BeoMa
>KapKHM .leTHva h x.iajHHM 3iiMaMa, CHBa 3HaTHO yMaibena y ohhm KOTJiimaMa mhjc je hho HcnyibeHo boaom.
3na ce na Bene Boaene Mace Bpme na k/ihmh cbojc
oko/ihhc jnojaKe yTHuaje: /ieTH pacx;iat)yjy ua.-uyx
kojh ce no/i yTHuajeM japKor cyHua 3arpeje, a BHlfH
nyujTajy Ton/ioTy Kojy cy .icm y ce npHMH.ie. Be/iHKa
je3epa cnywe y oboj oG/iacrH Kao neKa Bpcra TonôThhx pe3epBoapa. To Ao;ia3H oiyaa iijto ce Boaa cnopwje 3arpeBa ho Baaayx H ro/ie crone. Hcto Tano cnopnje OTnyiuTa Beh npwfJbeHy Ton/iOTy. H3 obhx pa3/iora K/iHMa je y npccnancKOJ h oxphackoj kot/imhh
3HMM Ton^Hja ho y Onro/bCKoj n capnljo.iCKOj kot.ihhh
TaKO, Ha npHMep,,CTaHOBHHHH,CVCCAHMX odacTH BH
HOBA CPBHJA
170
Ka# nyiyjy o,a OxpH.ua BHTo;by,

on TbaBaTa Hadaje 3HaTH0 Beha xjiaaHoha. HecTO je y Oxpnay TeMncpaiypa caivio 3 ao 4 CTeneHa Hcnoa Hyjie, aok je y
20. Hcto TaKO. Kaa ce JieTH flana3H H3 caBHTOJby
paô^cKe h 6HTOJbCKe KoiviHHe npeMa ripecnH h Oxpnuy,
oceha ce ,aa ce AOJiasn y CBe>K h npHjaTaH jieTHoH Ba3xyx. H3 obhx pa3/iora Boaa Oxpn/iCKor Je3epa HHKazt
ce He CMp3aBa, h 36or Tora oho 3hmh, k&h je tteroBa
OKOJiHHa noKpHBeHa CHeroM h JieaoM, 3panH TonjioTy,
noBehaBa TeMnepaTypy Ba3j.vxa h y6;ia)KaBa ouiTpHHy
3HMe. Th ce yTHuajH HapoMHTO ocehajy y ceBepHHM
npH6pe>KHHM paBHHuaMa oko Oxpnaa, Crpyre h y Re6puH, Koje cy 3aK^0H>eHe on ceBepHHx BeTpoBa. 36or
Tora y obhm 06/iacTHMa KJiHMa je Heo6HMHO 6;iara, h
y H>HMa ycnexa n;ieMeHHTO Bohe Koje y apyrHM o6;iaCTHMa He Mo>Ke ycneBaTH.
OBane BHCHHCKe h KJiHMCKe npHJiHKe HHcy aonyCTHJie #a ce y oboj o6jiacTH pa3BHJe Me^HTepaHCKa
(J)jiopa hh Me^HTepaHCKO KyjrrypHO 6HJbe. Obh ynmajn
naâjy y o^h thm BHiue iuto ce OBe o6;iacTH Ha/ia3e y
6;ih3hhh ErejcKor, JoHCKor h Ja^paHCKor Mopa, h uito
;ie>Ke Ha reorpacj)CKOJ euhphhh Ha kojoj o6hmho ocehaMo MHoro jane yTnuaje Me^HTepaHCKe (JMOpe, OHaKBe
on npHAHKe KaKBe ocehaMO y aojihhh Bapaapa. KyjiTypHe 6njbKe obhx o6mlctu cnopo cy HCTe Kao h y
ceBepHHM cpncKHM 3eMJbaMa, caMO c tom pa3JiHKOM ujto
OBjie ycneBajy Ha MHoro BehHM BHCHHaivia.
npuepeda. CyBaTH, kojhx HMa MHoro Ha TeMeHHMa h naAHHaMa nâHHHa, npcucraBJbajy Hajdojbe h
HajnpocTpaHHje nâHHHCKe Hcname Ha Ba;iKaHCKOM flojiyocrpBy. 36or Tora je OBjie p23BHJeHO nâHHHCKo
CTonapcTBO HajiuHpHx pa3Mepa. BaHHJatbe v. cTonapcKa

nâHHHCKa KpeTan>a Bpme ce y bckhkhm pa3MepaMa.
TâBHa cy KpeTan>a OBa. JleTa ce npoBoê Ha iiepHdepy, BHCTpoj, HHMy, JadJiaHHUH, Kopa6y h Ulapn,
a 3HMa y Co/iyHCKOJ KaMnaibH, TecajiHjcKOJ kotvihhh,
apTaHCKOJ paBHHUH h MycaKHJH. KpeTan>a ce Bpme
cBaKHx neT no iuecT Meceun, y noneTKy jieia h jeceHH.
On
BejiHKHX h MHoro6poJHHx craâ, iêâ 3anaAHa MaTaâ o>khbh. CroqapcTBO npeflcraBJba Haj-
KeAOHHJa
UIAAHA MAKLM.OHHJA
171
npHBêAHy rpaHy. Hj^mo ce oaBc naJBHiuc

ApoMyHH h^h UHHuapH, 3aTHM Ap6aHacH, na OHâ ao/ia3e Cp6H. Oa cbhx HaHHHa npHBpe^c, HajBHUie kopHCTH AOHOCH CTOUapCTBO. HapounTO je pa3BHJeHa H3B03Ha TprOBHHa Ca >KHBOM CTOKOM, ByHOM, KO>KOM, CHpOM H MaCTOM.
na>KHHJy
Oa cbhx C/iOBeHa Ba/iKaHCKor no/iyocrpBa, paHHJe cy ce HaJBHine CTOMapcrBOM 6aBH/iH PeKa.iuje h/ih
CTaHOBHHUH OKO peKe PaAHKe H FbeHHX npHTOKa To;ieMe h Ma/ie PeKe. Ohh npnna/iajy cpncKOM n/ieMeHy
MHJauHMa. hbHXOBa ce;ia orpaHHMeHa cy Bp/io bhcokhm nâHHHaMa, MaxoM npeno 2000 m. bhchhc Koje
ce oa/iHKyjy npocrpaHHM, rycTOM TpaBOM o6pac/iHM
6H^HMa. lieo Taj Kpaj oxuiHKyje ce oimpoM ktihmom,
h HesroâH je 3a 3eMJt>opaAH>y. 3a pa3;iHKy oa HOMaA*
ckhx ApoNiyHa, obh HMajy CBOje njiaHHHe Koje cy, no
TpaziHUHJH, otcjih oa B/iaxa. CBe aok Ap6aHacH HHcy
none/in npoAHpaTH y oBy o6/iacr, Pena^HJe cy HMa/ie
Be^HKa craAa OBaua Koja cy /ieTOBa;ia no oko/ihhm
n/iaHnnaMa, a 3HMOBa/ia y npHMopjy ErejcKor Mopa.
CBaKH je HMao Be/iHKa CTaâ. 3a caM ra/iHMHHK ce
tbpah Aa je HMao npcKO 100.000 OBaua. Ha jeAHy 6aMHJy h/ih /ieTH>y Hcnaojy H3/ia3H no 6000 OBaua non
ynpaBOM jeAHor 6aMa. no bc/ihhhhh Kpâ, c tt>HMa ce
Mory ycnopeljHBaTH join caMO hckh B/iacn h Aa/iMathhckh 5yMaHH", kojh ca daAHMa on 5000 ao 10.000
OBaua H3/ia3e Ha n/iaHHHe /iH4Ke, 6ocaHCKe h xepueroBaHKe. FI/ianHHa ce Ae/w Ha ncnauje Koje ce 30By
KiuAe. a OBe ce, aKO Hnje nâHHHa ceocKa, Aajy noA
3aKyn. 3a >khbot Ha n/ianHHH CTOMapH o6pa3yjy yapy>Keiba Koja ce 30By xapauiune, Koje he ca cbojom ctokom eKcnôaTHcaTH n/iaHHHy. U,aK/ie HCTa yupyweiba
Kao h y ceBepo-3anaAHHM cpncKHM 3eMJbaMa. Onaj kojh
y jeAHOJ KapaujHUH HMa najBHme CTOKe 30Be ce texaja. Oh ynpaB/ba 6awHJOM h/ih nocraB/ba 3a to ua
pahexajy. FIopeA napahexaje Ha 6aqnjn je 6an kojh
chph cwp, cfiuiypie HjeroB noMaraq, odayufa, kojh aohoch ApBa, BOAy, totobh Kawa.viaK, Kofuapmija je actc
Koje HaroHH OBue Ha CTpyry ioa hx My3y. Y3 to HMa
iiobhujo cejMeHa HAH ^cpyOenuuja
:axoM iiaj-
172
HOBA CPBHJA
MJbeHH Ap6anacH kojh HyBajy 6a^HJy on apaMHja. Kao

h Aa^MaTHHCKH BynaHH, h obh 3ace6HO nyBajy My3HHue,
a 3ace6HO jajiOBy CTOKy.
OBaj CTOMapcKH >khbot, kojh HMa y ce6n MHoro
onujTer 6a;iKaHCKor, h kojh ce oa ceBepo-3ana#HHx
cpncKHx CTOMapa (WiHKyje MHorHM HecpncKHM BJiaihkhm h TypcKHM na3HBHMa, HHTepecaHTaH je h no Hekhm HaqHHHMa MJieKapcKor paaa, kojh necTO mrnena'jy
Kao npeocTamn HeKe npaciape Ky^Type. TaKaB je
o6Hnaj ynoTpe6^.aBaHbe ycnjaHHX KaMeHHTHX o6;iyTaKa
kojh ce 6auajy y cyiie c MêKOM h 3HpoM (cypyTKOM)
na ce MJieKO ycHpn h na. ce oabojh cnp or Mac;ia.
HHane H3ivien 6aMHj'e h 6anHâ (cTaHa, KOJiH6e) cjihqaH je ocrajiHM 6a;iKaHCKHM KaTyHHMa h 6aMHJaMa.
CTonapn H3 JlpuMKona, H3 cejia oko Ja6;iaHHue
h H3 Tenor Bpâ, He yêcTByjy y oBaKO bcjihkhm KpeTaHDHMa. FIoluto cy TaMO ce;ia o6hmho BHCOKa h n;iaHHHCKa, HoHxoBa CTOKa shmh cHJia3H y .no^HHy UpHor
JlpHMa h H>eroBHX npHTOKa, r#e cy tt>HBe h cronapcKe
CTaje y KoJHMa CTOKa npe3HMH. y npo.nehe, Ka^ ce y
.ao^HHaMa noHHy cejaTH KyKypy3H, Bpahajy ce y cejio.
IlpaBor 6aHHJaHâ Ty HeMa. CaMO OHa cejia HMajy 6aHHJia Koja cy y 6jih3hhh Behnx njiaHHHa.
36or Tora urro BehH rqo 3eMJbHurra 3ay3HMajy
BHCOKe nâHHHe h hito cy MHore KoiviHHe HcnytbeHe
je3epHMa, a AHaHcymeHHX je3epa MaxoM MOâpHa, oceha
ce ocKynHija y 3HpaTHOj 3eMJbH. HajBHme je HMa y
HcyineHHM je3epcKHM KOTJiHHaMa Kao ujto cy 6HTOJt>CKa, CapHôji h KopqaHCKa. H OHe HHcy HcymeHe, na
36or Tora 3HaTHe npocTopHj'e oko UpHe y 6hto^ckoj
kot/ihhh joiu cy no# 6apaMa, Koje npeAcraBJbajy ociaTKe
oa dapHx je3epa. HnaK je 6nTOJbCKa KOT/iHHa HajBehHM AeÔM nocejaHa >khtom, HapoHHTO KyKypy30M. OHa
npeacraBjba arpHKy;iTypHO Haj6oraTHJy 06/iacr 3anaflHe
MaKeÔHHJe. OHa je jejuna y ciaiby â HcxpaHH cbojc
CTaHOBHHUJTO H R2i )KHTO y 3HaTHHM KOJlHHHHaMa H3B03H. Kaa ce peryjiHiue jiojiuna UpHe h kslr ce oueae
6apyuiTHHe h MOMapH, 6HTOJt>CKa KOTJiHHa he 6hth jeAHa OR HajnÔAHHJHX MaKCHOHCKHX KOTVIHHa.
OHe napTHje npecnaHCKe h oxpHACKe kottikhc
3AIIAJ.HA MAKEflQHHJA
hco6hmho cy
7S
n/iojHe. PeceHCKa paBko;ihko Tpe6a 3a cey npea oxpnztCKa He Aaje to^hko >KHTa,
a/in je OKO.iHHa OxpH.ua h He6pua doraTa
noBphe.M,
BoheM, a HMa h BHHorpana. Oxpn^cKo noBphe je qyBeno, nponaje ce MaK h y BnTo.by. MyBeHe cy oxphaCKe Tpeiuibe, Koje cy Be/iHKe Kao opacn h jano mhpniny, 3aTHM oxpniicKe ja6yKe, Koje ce y 3HaTHHM ko.iHMHHaMa H3B03e y Ennp, Teca/injy h TpqKy. Bp/io cy
ueibeHe KpyiiiKe, aytbe, nj/bHBe, nenyHH (unibe) H
oxpn/icKo rpoKê.
Oko OxpH^rKor h FIpecnaHCKor Je3epa jaKO je
pa3BHJeH ph6o/iob. MHoro nopoanua h ce/ia 6aBe ce
HCKjbyHHBO pH6apcrB0M Ocoohto cy uen>eHe oxpHACKe jeryjbe h nacTpMKe, Koje ce y bctchkhm ko/ihmhnavia H3B03e h y ceBepHe Ga^KaHCKe 3eM:be flonnpy.
YoieA Tora ujto cy h HajBehe n/iannHe ro/ie h o6pac/ie caMO >K6yfbeM, OBAe iuyMa He ziaje oco6ht npHHoc.
Hcto TaKO pyAapcrBO Hnje HHKaKBa npHBpe^Ha rpaHa.
FIopeA obhx, HMa join jeflHa rpaHa npHBpeae Koja
CTOJH CaMO AOHCK.ie y Be3H C (})H3HMKHM ocoCHHaMa
ca.Mor 3eM^.HLUTa. To je ue iaA6a h.ih zypoeiTi.iyK. Oahobhhhj'bo obhx 06/iacTH Hfle y neMa/i6y BHiue ho
craHOBHHUJTBO IloBapiiapcKe h Hctomhc MaKejOHHJe.
May MaxoM y ByrapcKy, CpCnjy, PyMynnjy, 3aTHM y
TpMKy, a y najnoBHJe BpeMe CKopo HCK/byMHBO y A.\iepHKy. HajBHiue H^y ApoMynn, h to uny CKopo cbh
CKopo y hctoj Mepn Hjy Cp6n h Ap6anacH H3 ,fle6pa,
Pexe h UpHMKO.ia. Ha crpaHH ce 6aBe pa3H0BpcHHM
3anaTHMa h AOHoce 3HaTHe cyMe HOBaua, KoJHMa ce
H3jp>KaBa bc.ihkh aco CTanoBHHUJTBa. Onawa ce Aa y
ne iia/i6y nay n/iaHHHCKa ce/ia bhujc ho ce/ia Ma KOT/inna.
IjaiiHC KOM\'HUKaHlljt' 11 HCIHUHU Cao6pQ haja Ktt*
puuujcKii cao6pahaj kohquu u xcihobu. Or ko.ihKor yTimaja MO/Ke na 6yjie npupoâ je^He oG.iacTH
na pa3ne oG.ihkc napoancr >KHBOTa, OBAe CC napoihto bh>ih nopea ocra/ior h Ra npjHua raiBHHl K0MyHHKauHJa. W oboj 06/iacTH, Koja ce cacrojH on
HH3a ayOoKnx KOT^nna Koje cy ca cbhx crrpana orpa-
Koje cy HcyiueHe,
HHua aaje to/ihko

cnaHCKy kot/ihhv,
>KHTa
HOBA C^BHJA
\)em bhcokhm nâHHHaivia, 6poj niaBHHx KOMyHHKaUHJa Mopa 6hth orpaHHqeH, a npaBau ibhxob crajiaH.
TjiaBHe KOMyHHKauHje cy Be3aHe 3a Ay6oKe npeceA/iHHe, h;ih napqaA CTapHx AO/iHHa.
Oil 3Haqaja je Aa
ce HCTaKHy OBe ABe reorpa(})CKH HHTepecaHTHe CTBapH.
CBe npeccuJiHHe h CBa napwaA CTapHx AOJiHHa ynoTpe6jbeHe cy 3a KOMyHHKauHje. 36or Tora iiito je orpaHHneH 6poj thx npeceA^HHa, n>HX0Ba cao6pahaJHa Ba>Khoct odaje cra/ma, h nojeAHHH nyTeBH 6hjiu cy y crait>y
Aa cboj npaBau h cboj bctchkh 3Haqaj onyBajy npeKO
ABe xHJbaAe roAHHa. TaKaB je cjiynaj c no3HaTOM Via
Egnatia, Koja HAe oa Jlpaqa aojihhom UJKyM6e Ha
OxpHA, BHTOJb, BoêH h Co/iyH, h Koje ce y nnaBHOM
Ap>Ke AaHannba 6HTOJbCKa >Ke;ie3HHua h dHTOJbCKOOXpHflCKH nyi\
IlopeA OBora Be^HKor TpaH3HTHor nyTa kojh 3ana^HOJ MaKeaoHHJH Aaje 3Haqaj nocpeAHHHKe 3eMJbe,
HMa 6e36poj MatbHx yHyiaapwux uymesa kojh Beacy
noje^HHe kotjihhc Oa k3lko je npopaAHJia 6HTOJt>cKa
ceê3HHua, BHm/b je nociao cpeAHniTe h pacKpcHHija
CBHJy THX KOMyHHKaUHJa, H THMe je KaO BapOUJ 3HaTHO
Hanpe.fl.OBao. TaKaB jeAaH nyT boah oa BHTOJba ao KpymeBa h IlpHJiena, rê ce nocjieAHH paqBa h HAe npeKO
npHcaTa Beêcy h npeKO IT/ieTBapa 3a BapaapcKe koT^HHe Pajau h Thkbcih. 06a cy H3ry6n;ia cboj HerAaumH 3Haqaj oa KaKO je AOBpnieHa 6HTo;bCKa acejie3HHua. Oa Matter je 3Haqaja nyT kojhm ce HAe H3
6HT0^CKe KOTJiHHe 3a >Ke;ie3HHK, 3aTHM 3a FIopeH h
Khhcbo. Bojhu je nyT kojh oa FIpHêna boah npeKO
ce;ia BpOAa 3a Khmcbo h nopen. Be^HKy Ba>KHOCT HMa
nyT kojh ce oa /lepHHa nett>e Ha nncoAepCKy npeceAjiHHy, na panBajyhH ce boah Ha 3anaA y EHJiHurre h
Kopny, a Ha jyr y KocTyp. y Capnljo;iy HMa caMo jeAaH nyT kojh oa craHHue CypoBHneBa boah jyry npeKO
ceâ CoTHpa h Ha;i6aHTKeja y Kajaâp. Oa foera ce
npeMa B/iaxoK;iHcypH OABaja KapaBaHCKH nyT, kojh je
HapoHHTO 36or rypGeuHja jaKO noceheH. y npecnaHCKOJ
kot/ihhh HMa caMo jeAaH Ao6ap nyT, kojh ce ncnoA
'BaBaTa OABaja oa oxpHACKor ApyMa h HAe 3anaAH0M
3AnAHA MAKEJ10HHJA
7f>
o6a/ioM FlpecnaHCKor Jesepa, npe;ia3H npecen/iHHy FIpeBnne 3a Kopny h aajbe 3a JafbHHv. To je no3HaTH
enHpcKH nyT, kojh je nooie Via Egnatia HaJBa>KHHJH y
ue/ioj 3anaiHoj MaKeaoHHJH. Oj OpyMe h OxpHâ
H,ay 3a He6ap BeoMa ptjaBH KapaBaHCKH nyTeBH.
H3Met)y BnTo;ba, PecHa h Oxpnna, no Kopqe h
Kodypa je h can y jeKy Kupui/u/CKu cao6pahoj\ kojh
je nopen HoBona3apcKor CaHuaKa h EnHpa joui jeAhho y obom Kpajy OMyBaH. To cy y r/iaBHOM KapaBaHCKH TpaHcnopTH, kojh ce cacroje on noBopKH Koiba
h Ma3rH HaTOBapeHHx ecnanHMa h 3eMa;bCKHM npoH3BOUHMa. Taj HanHH cao6pahaja HapOMHTO je jkhb y
jeceH xana noMeHyTH nyT H3Metjy BnTo:ba. PecHa h
Oxpnna nocraje nyH CBeia Kao HajwHB/be y/inue y
MaKeiiOHCKHM BapoiOHMa. ripo(})ecop U,BHJHh, kojh je y
BHiue MaxoBa nyTOBao obhm nyTeM, nao HaM je >khb
onwc OBora nyia, Hannna nyTOBarba h npeHohHima
y xaHOBHMa: .Cpeiajy ce i<Hpnunje ca HaTOBaneHHM
KOfbHMa h Ma3raMa: CBaKH Mac ce Han/mH Ha 50 no
100 HaTOBapeHHx Mairn h;ih KOH>a. Hncy peTKe hh
noBopKe on khphuhjckhx KO/ia, Koje ByKy 6hbo/ih
h^h bo/iobh, h Kpehy ce HapoMHTo npeMa Pecny h
Oxpnny. KapaBaHCKH h ko^ckh TpancnopTH Hoce H3 Bhmrba npoH3BOê eBponcKe HHnycrpHJe. MaxoMeBponcKH
6o<$n. Ma3re cy HaJBHiue HaTOBapeHe rB03neHHM MaiepHjanoM, neTpoêyMOM y caHnvuHMa h BpehaMa 6pauiHa. Y3 FbHx nny KHpnyHJe: TocKe ca 6e;iHM (})ecoM
h KapaKTepHCTHMHHM npw Bpxy saiuHêHMM onaHUHMa
ca khtom, Tpuh h UnHuapn on Kopne, Bn/iHiijTa h
Kocrrypa, odyqeHH qecro y aniepHJe, 3aTHM MaKenoHckh C/ioBeHH, noMaBHTO on Pecua h Oxpnna. ca upbchhm qaKiiiHpaMa h |)epMeHHMa. Ha no6po onpeM/beHHM KOFbHMa jailjy TOCKaHCKH H HHHljapCKH TprOBUH
h/ih TypcKH 6eroBH, 3a K0jn\ia nny mccto ibuxoBe c.ivre
h raBa3H
nocnentbH 6oraTO h KHni.acro oneBeHH. TproBUH ce necTO B03e h y KO/iHMa h;ih KapyuaMa. 3aTnvi
npoMHHe ue/ia uHHuapcKa noponnua h/ih BHiue bn,
h >KeHe h neua, cbh Ha Ma3raMa h/ih Ha Kon>HMa, h
Hoce co6om CBe ujto hm Tpe6a 3a iipenohHiiiTe h xpany,
laTHM caH/iyKe ci Kyn/benH.M cTBapHMa ja loMahy no
thc,
176
HOBA CPBHJA
Tpe6y; to Ty MaxoM UnHijapH kojh ce Bpahajy H3 neqa;i6e. YaeK ce Ha obhm jipyMOBHMa cpeTajy MHorH
nonoBH h Ka/iyijepH, kojh cy, y HOBHJe BpeMe, ycnen
no3HaTHX aoratjaja y MaKejiOHHJH, nocrajm Hapo^HTO
noKpeTJbHBH. Hedo ce BHê h yHHTejbH pa3HHx Hapo^HOCTH, ajw norâBHTO cjiOBeHCKe KpBH a pa3HHx
nponaraHiiH, kojh cy y BHTOJby ao6hjih HHcrpyKimje
hjih nâiy 3a cboj MyHHH pazi, y KOMe je HnaK t3ko
Maô Ky^TypHora h npocBeTHora. CpeTajy ce aaKJie
npeacraBHHUH cbhx ^pyiuTBeHHx cjiojeBa 3ana,n.He MaKe/ioHHJe h Aji6aHHj"e h oceTH ce, 6ojbe Hero y qapihhjh h^h nyTyjyhti no ce^HMa, >khbot h ny;ic thx
o6âcTH.
A/ih cy Ha obhm nyTeBHMa niaBHO HnaK KHpnijLHJe ca KapaBaHHMa h kojickhm TpaHcnopTHMa, Hapohuto npBe. Obh ce cnopo Kpehy, npe;ia3e npeKO /jana
OApeêHa Oflcrojatfea h HMajy or CTapHHe yTBpljeHe
KOHaKe. 3Ha ce, Ha npHMep, #a Ha nyTy on BnTOJba
npeMa Kopqn h JaibHHH HMajy Hajnpe na. npeHohe y
PecHy, 3aTHM y CTeft>y, Ha 3anaiiHoj o6a;iH ripecnaHckot Je3epa, y 3Be3H, Ha cesepHoj hbhuh KopnaHCKe
KOT^HHe, 3aTHM y KopHH h aajbe. y THM KHpHUHJckhm npeHohHLUTHMa HMa HaJBHuie h Haj6ojbHx xaHOBa. To cy MaxoM HaJBeha 3atba obhx o6;iacTH.
Orpal}eHa cy bhcokhm KaMeHHM 3haom, HMajy TeuiKa
^pBeHa BpaTa, Koja ce y aKiuaM 3aTBapajy h c MyKOM
ce hko AouHHje nyuiTa. H3y3eBUJH HenoBO/bHe cnyMajeBe, KHpHUHJe CTH>Ky Ha KOHaK npe 3a;iacKa cyHua.
YHyTpa, y obom rpa^Hhy cy .nyraHKe KOHDywHHije, h to
je rviaBHO y xaHOBHMa. Obh cy Ty 36or ctokc h 3a n^y
CBe HMa. CaM xaH je no npaBHJiy Ha aba cnpaTa. y Oft>eM
ropn BaTpa, h Ty ce ueo Ran h CKOpo ue^y Hoh nene
Ka(})a; tby jeaHHO Mory rocrn y xaHOBHMa ao6hth. Ajih ce
necTO y oboj npocTOpHJH h;ih y3 Hby, koji 6ojt>HX xaHOBa Ha/ia3H ziyhaH, y KOMe ce MO>Ke KynHTH ayBaHa,
hn6pHTa, x;ie6a, jaja, a KauiTO h Meca. KHpnunje h
TproBUH Kynyjy Te noTpe6e h caMH cnpaBJbajy jeô, aKO
HHcy co6om noHe^H, h;ih hm cnpaB/bajy xam,inje, kojh
Cy y OBHM KpajeBHMa rOTOBO HCKJbyHHBO U,HHUapH H
Tockc KnpHUHJe h HohnBajy y^xaHy, nopea BaTpe,
3AnAAHA MAKEAOHHJA
177
y K<myiuHHUH nope;i CBOje ctokc Me^yTHM TproBUH, 6eroBH h ocTa^H 6o:h\\ nyTHHUH HohHBajy y
co6aMa ropier cnpaia, hhjh cy np03opn OKpeHyTH Ha
OHy crpaHy iuto Ha nyT rvieiia. y BehHM xanoBHMa HMa
h no Hena co6a 3a rocre. H3y3eBuiH Oxpna, Kopqy,
Ja^HHy, y xaHCKHM co6aMa HeMa KpeBera, h HHCTOTa
je ayrnjcBCKa. HeMa Behe MyKe 3a nyTHHKa ho HohnBaTH y thm co6aMa, a Ha x/ia^HOM BpeMeHy ce to Mopa.
h;ih
no ibHXOBOM
uojyy cy npocrpTe jeAHa h/ih jiBe acype,

h to je CBe y oboj co6h, hhih je noa OHe np^>aBiHTHHe
on Koje ce Kowa je>KH, a ayBapoBH cy H36p:baHH h iotobo
upHH. Met)yTHM y noMeHyTHM xaHOBHMa 6o/be Bpcre no
noay cy npocTpTe ciaMâMe, npeKO kojhx cy y/iewaHH
Hh^hmh h MacHH jacTyuH kojh ce uaK/ie. flopeii nyTHHKa
cy CKopo peAOBHH rocTH obhx npâBHx h OMaujheHHx
co6a nauoBH, qnja ce TpKa h UHKa KaujTO ue/iy Hoh
c/iyina
rxienie cy Bp/io arpecHBHH h pa3Hecy xpaHy
Kojy cy nyTHHUH cnpeMH.in, KaiiJTO H3r/iol)y h OMauiheHe KanyTe. Hncy mhoto 6ojbH hh ohh xaHOBH y ko*
jHMa HMa KpeBeTa.
y ABopnujTy xaHa, petje H3BaH xana, HMa bc/ihko
iipBO, HaJMeujhe n-iaTan h/ih jeiXHa Bpcra xpacra, oko
Kora je y3BHHieH>e, no3HiiaHO h 3eM/bOM Ha6njeH0, Ha;ihk Ha ryBHO, h to je Te({)epHM 3a 6o:he nyTHHKe, r\ae
ce ohh Hajnpe OAMope h nnjy Ka(})y. ya n.era je no
;
npaBH^y MecMa h/ih 6ynap.

KnpHUHJe ca 6hbo/ickhm h/ih bo/iobckhm KO/iHMa
HohHBajy na .iciiom BpcMeny H3BaH xaHOBa nopetiajy
Ko/ia y npyr, Kao Kapy, orpaê ce, h y tom 3aTBOpeBOM npocTopy ropn Be/iHKa BaTpa oko Koje noceAajy; aouhhjc na CMeny cnaBajy TaKO na hx HMa 6yahhx ue.ic HOhH: ohm npeceae nymcliH ^yBan h nnjyhn
KacJ)y. Kaa je zieno BpeMe, h KapaBancKe KHpnuHje na/iowe BaTpy y ABopnojTy xana h oko n>e npecnaBajy
h/ih npecene ue/iy Hoh, y hctom pacno/io>KeH>y Kao
:
H lipBH."
Tuuosu ccaci u Kyha. Hnrae ce TaKO jacHO hc

BHiie pa3HOBpcHH yTHuajH KoJHMa je 6ho H3/io>KeH >khbot CTaHOBHHLUTBa 3ar]ajiHe MaKeaonnje Kao na thnoBHMa ceia w Kyha. Be/iHKe ce paviHKe ocehajy y
OBA cruuA
12
HOBA CPBHJA
1/0
cBaKOMe
TOMe #a jih je cpncKo, apOMyHap6aHaniKO. Tnn cejia, cnoJbHH h yHyiaptbH

H3i7ien ceocKHX Kyha, Kao h caM yHyTpauiiBH >khbot,
y ochobh je iipyKMHJH koa CBa Tpn Hapoâ. flope^
Tora onancajy ce pa3JiHKe Koje ô/ia3e on Tora aa jih
je cejio HHT^ynKo hjih HHJe, #a jih je nojbCKO hjih njiaHHHCKO, JX2L JIH je BHLIie 3eMJbOpa^HHHKO HJIH CTOâpcko. Cbh obh yTHuajH ona>KaHH cy h HaroBeniTaBaHH
h y flpyrHM cpncKHM o6jiacrHMa, ajiH ibhxob yTHuaj
peTKo rue Aa je 6ho tojihko jan, h peTKo i\ne jo,a je
H3a3Bao tojihko pa3JiHKa Kao y oboj o6jiacTH.
Ha npBOM MecTy na#a y oih pa3JiHKa H3Mehj
cpncKHx h pOMaHCKHx Hacejba. y npBHM ce jaBJbajy
pa3JiKKe npeivia TOMe a jih cy HHTjiyqKa h/ih HHcy,
3aTHM npeMa pa3HHM o6jiacTHMa, npeivia TepeHCKHM h
bhchhckhm pasjiHKaMa koa apyrnx ce ona>Kajy pa3jiHKe npeMa TOMe #a jih cy to cejia CTajiHO HacTaibehhx U,HHuapa (ryp6euHJa") hjih cy to KaTyHH hocko
cejiy npeivia
hjih
M3ACKHX ApOMyHa.
no Tnny cpncKHx cejia h Kyha y 3ana^Hoj Makchohhjh HMaivio Be ueJiHHe, on koj'hx npBy caqHHr.aBajy dHTOJbCKa, npecnaHCKa h oxpnucKa KOTJiHHa, a
Apyry cejia JpHMKOJia, PeKe, h ae6apcKor Kpaja.
y npBOM êjiy no Tnny pa3JiHKyjeivio ABe BpcTe
cejia, h to nojbCKa h njiamiHCKa. Ta pa3JiHKa je H3a3BaHa THMe uito cy ce nojbCKa cejia pa3BHJajia no,n, yTHuajeM HHTjiy^Kor CHcreMa, a Apyra cy 6HJia cjio6o,hHHJa or iberoBHX yTHuaja.
CKopo CBa cejia cnoMeHyTHX KOTJiHHa cy hhcJ)/iyun, peh,e je^Hora cnaxnje, BehHHOM BHiiie ibhx. Koa
cbhx hh^^hjckhx cejia KapaKTepncrHHHO je to hjto cy
36ujenoza iuuua, ynpaBO pa36HjeHa cy y BHine rpyna,
y KOJHMa cy Kyhe Meljy co6om jaKO 36njeHe. Ako cejio
npnnaâ je^HOM cnaxnjn, OHâ cy CBe Kyhe 36njeHe y
je^Hy rpyny. y cpe#nHH TaKor cejia je BeJiHKa arHHCKa Kyha, 3H#aHa, OKpeneHa, c Aocra bhtkhx AHMtbaKa,
h o6h4ho Ha ABa cnpaTa. Oko it>e cy 36njeHe CHTHe,
npjbaBe, HeoKpeqeHe ceocKe Kyhe, Koje cy MaxoM ox
neoTecaHor
KaivieHa,
6e3 MajiTepa, 6jiaTOM o6jienjbeHe,
o6hhho noKpHBeHe kpobhhom,
pel)e
hepaMHÔM. Ako
J.-AII.\4"rt
1YJ/\I\C,U VJI
>
npnnaaa hcko/ihuhhh cnaxnja, OHâ ce ce/io acjih

Ha HeKO/iHKO rpyna, ynpaBO Ha oho/ihko rpyna kojihko
HMa cnaxHJa. Y cpe^HHH rpyne je cnaxHJCKa h;ih arnnCKa Kyha, a oko n>e cy KaTKaA 6e3 pezia 36njeHe ce-
ce.io
neiuhe cy y 06/iHKy Kpyra h.ih napaê.lorpaMa orpaJ)eHe 3ajeAHHHKHM 3hjiom 0,1 3eM;be h.ih
hepnHMa, kojh neiuhe HMa najicTpeiiiHHuy. Y noc.neAHdCM cnyMajy ceocKe Kyhe cy 6/iH>Ke hbhuh 3Hiia, a
arHHCKa je y cpenHHH orpaêHa npodopa. TaKaB H3r/iea HMajy h 0Ha no;bCKa ce.ia Koja cy ono6o;iHa.
y CBaKOM ce/iy, na 6w\o hhb4hjcko h;ih c.io6oaho, je^Hora are h.ih BHiue ibnx, HMa yBeK jejaH
c.no6oâH npocrop, o6hmho y 6.ih3hhh upKBe, Ha KOMe
ce cadajy h o npa3HHUHMa Hrpajy ko/io. Taj ce npoCTop, aKO je npn 3eM/bH, 30Be ciupencio (t j. cpece;io), a aKO je noanrHyT on leM.-be, OHâ ce 30Be iuy.\i6a.
Kyha je o6hmho ABOê/bHa h HMa MaxoM abc npoCTopnje, h to Kyhy 3a Jbyae h uonduAy 3a croKy.
ToMe pacnope^y o^roBapajy h ABOJa BpaTa, h to rviaBHa
cy jy>KHa, a cnope^Ha cy ceBepHa. Ha npBa y;ia3e h
-'byAH h CTOKa, a Ha Apyra caMO ^yAH. IlpcA bc.thkhm BpaTHMa c jeaHe h apyre crpaHe HMa TpeM h.ih
upeiuKyhuje, i\ae ce ;ieTH aoneKyjy tocth. HeNia hh
TaBaHa hh ouaKa. Hhm ce innpn no ueôj KyhH h H3/ia3H Ha 6auy y KpoBy. Y3 OBy Kyhy ona>Kajy ce obc
Koiuape 3a wyBaibe CTBapn nojeAHHHX 3a;ipy3rpa,ae
rapa, n/ieBiba 3a ceHO, 3aTHM Tp/ia 3a CTOKy, CBHn.au,
KOKOLUHHau, xaM6apH, KoiueBH, a KaTKaa h x/ieGna neh.
ocKe Kyhe,
nâHHHCKa Kyha ce 3HaTHO pa3/iHKyje on no/bCKe, h to na npnoM Mecry npocrpaHHJHM npocropoM

oko Kyhe. Ha TOMe npocropy pa3.iHKyjeMO MCTupn
ae/ia, h to: mccto rvie je Kyha, ryMHO, ABop h \
hhk. Kyha je Ha Kpajy ABopnujTa 6/iH>Ke y/innn. Cbc
cy Kyhe jeAHOcnpaTue, 3HAane KaMeHOM h 6/iaTOM, a
noKpHBeHe KaMeHOM nÔMOM h c/iaMOM. M.Majv ABOJa
BpaTa, t'o.WMa (jywua) h .ua.ia
Ha Kyhy 3a /byAe h uoHOu.iy 3a
(ceBcpiia).
crony.
AeJtM ce
W Kyhn
ce
m. ujhpa3^HKyjy obh aciobh ozhbiuuule, pyiia no

poKa a 1 Vi m. AyraMKa; oko oribHiirra cy cpednoBoA
H3Mel)y oru.HUjTa h BpaTa, npa3an npocTop na komc
1
IP
fcMecapHJa" (peayina) MecH x;ie6; c JieBe h aecHe OTpaHe

orhbHiiiTa cy miuuuiuia, Ha KoJHMa cnaBajy lvuiatja îeJbajiy a y npcmejby je nauiAaHUK,
Ha KOMe cnaBajy
CTapnja nejhaji. Cbh obh npocTopH cy y hctom HHBoy,

Ha no,ny kojh je HaHHêH oa Ha6njene 3eM^>e. J\o ro;ieMHx BpaTa" y noH^H^H je H36a a
npocTopHJa 3a
rocTe. Ako Heivia H36e", OH,na je y ^BopHiuTy HaHHH>eHa .aBocnpaTHa, qeTBOpoyrjiacra 3rpa;inua, o6;ienjbeHa 6/iaTOM, noKpHBeHa n;ionoM, c TaBaHOM h c Hekojihko MajiHx npo3opa, Koja ce 30Be KyAtme. To je
rocTHHCKa Kyha Ocrajie 3rpa;i;e y ^BOpHnrry cy OBe:
KOIliapa, JKHTHHUa, KOMHHa H .flpBHHK.
y aajbHHH or je^Hor no ABa qaca o^cejia pacrypeHa cy iupAa, h Ha pbeMy je ajatH 3a OBue, ca TpH
CTpaHe 03H/iaH h noKpHBeH caaMOM; ilpecAO je orpaêH
npodop npea ajaTOM; fiAeena 3a ceno h koau6cl 3a
qo6aHe.
CacBHM ApyKiHJH THn Kyha h ce;ia je y UpHMKo;iy, ,ne6apCKOM h peKa^HjcKOM Kpajy y obhm ce^HMa
noHHtty Beh aa ce ocehajy ohh yTwuaJH kojh #o;ia3e
c HCTOHHor jaapaHCKor npHMopja, h kojh cy 3anaziHHM
o6âcTHMa Ba;iKaHCKor ncnyocrpBa aohchh MHore 3aje^HHHKe oco6HHe y THny cejia h Kyha, 3aTHM y mhothm nojaBaMa MaTepnajiHe KyjiType, a BepOBaTHo HHcy
ocra;iH 6e3 H3BecHor yTHuaja hh Ha ncnxojiorHJy Hapoaa. y ZlpHMKO^y ce;ia cy pa36HJeHa y Maxaê h KpajeBe y KoJHMa cy Kyhe H3Mel)y ce6e o6hhho 3HaTHO
yiiajbeHe, TaKO rsl no cnojbHDeM H3rvie;iy uamme Ha
HeKa myMa^HJCKa a jom BHuie Ha upHoropcKa h xepueroBaMKa ce/ia. OBae HMa h 3ace;iaKa, kojhx HeMa y
cnoivieHyTHM KOT/iHHaMa. y nojeAHHHM MaxajiaMa h 3aceouHMa HMa rpyna o^ cpoahhmkhx Kyha, Koje OAroBapajy ueMaTHMa Jyro3anaziHe Cp6HJe h poAOBHMa
UpHe Tope h XcpueroBiai riopcfl. Tora CBaKa Kyha
HMa oko ce6e Behy npoi upnjy y kojoj je BpT h borH>aK h Koja o/iroBapa myMa^HJcKHM OK>hHnuaMa h
xepueroBaHKHM orpaâMa. CBaKO ce;io HMa cBojy 3aje^HHHKy npec/iaBy, a nopea Tora CBaKa nopoanua,
Kao h y ocra/ioj MaKeÔHHJH h Crapoj Cp6nJH, HMa
crcaBy, Kojy OBfle 30By ceeden. Ce;ia peKa^HJCKe o6;ia,
cth m Ae6apcKor Kpaja o;yiHKyjy ce THMe iuto cy CBa

Bp;io Be/iHKa h iuto cy noae/beHa y Maxa.ie, y KOJHMa
cy Kyhe jaKO 36HJeHe. Flo H3paH Kyha, no bcihmhhh
h cnojbHjeM H3MCiiy, OBa ce;ia Ha.iHHe Ha Ma;ie BapoiUHue. Thu je ce/ia CKopo hcth OHaKaB Kao koa U.hhuapa, Ha Koje cbojhm >khbotom h HHawe MHoro Ha/inne.
CeocKe Kyhe obhx o6:iacTH pa3/iHKyjy ce oa Kyha
KOT^HHaMa THMe ujto iiMajy aba, a KaTcnoMeHyTHM
y
Kan h Tpn cnpaTa, iuto cy ce aK/ie pa3BHJa.ie y eepuiuKaAHOM upaenv, aok cy ce Kyhe jy>KHHX KOT^HHa
3an. MaKeziOHHje pa3BHj'a/ie y xopH30HTa;iHOM npaBuy,
36or nera cy ocra/ie jeAHoenpaTHe. IlpBH npaBau pa3BHha je 3ajeziHHMKa oco6HHa Kyha Ap6aHHJe, UpHe
Tope, XepueroBHHe h ZlajiMauHje, Koje no oboj oco6hhh h no napoMHTOJ rpai)H MHHe 3ace6ny rpyny Kyha
Ha Ba/iKaHCKOM rio-nyocrpBy, Koja 6h ce MOMa Ha3BaTH ja^paHCKO-npHMopcKa rpyna. HHTcpecaHTHO je
iuto ce H3 Ka3HBaH>a MHornx MemTaHa ;u)3Haje aa OBaj
THn Kyhe HHJe or yBeK 6ho pauinpeH y oboj 06/iaCTH. T. TOMa CMH/baHHfi, yMHTCfo, KOJH je pOUOM H3
ce/ia TpecoHMe y Peun TBpun aa cy paHHJe Kyhe, aok
cy ce craHOBHHUH 6aBn;iH npeTe>KHo CTonapcTBOM, 6n;ie
npH3eMna GnaMett>aMa no^HmyTa on 6pBaHa h OMa3aHa 6/iaTOM u a oa KaKo je npecra/io CTonapcTBO,
Hapojx ce o/iao ryp6eT/iyKy h 3anaTHMa; KaKo cy BehHHOM jhyAH 3HapH h rpalêBHHapH, to cy h CBOJe
Kyhe yuec /ih npeMa rpaljancKHM" (UbhjhIi, III, 1014
,
1015). Hero TaKO npeHeceHa je y HOBHJe BpeMe

H3 BapoiuH h.th H3 zia.TMaTHiicKor npHMopja ^BOcnpaTHa
3Haana Kyha y XepueroBHHy H â.iiviaTHHCKO 3aropje;
npe H>e je y XepueroBHHH npeoBâf)HBa/ia npH3eMna
c.iaMHHua, a/in Heo/ien;beHa, oa cyBOMehnne, a y ;ia.i-
je 6n/ia 6pBHapa noKpHBena ;iaTaKO h caaamiba Kyha y Upnoj Topn npeB/iaaa/ia je tck y HOBHJe BpeMe. HcropHJa h pa3BHTaK
ap6aHaiHKe Kyhe HHCy im npnG.in>KHO no3naTH. H3
OBora ce nnaK bh/ih a& oBe sajeAHimice oco6nHe y
MaTepna/inoj Ky/iTypn ne Tpe6a cboamth na ncny oco6hto ,ay6oKy crapocr, a joiu Man>e hm Mory 6hth y3poK eTHorpa({)CKe MeiuaBHHe H3Metyy ToMaHa h Cia-
MaTHHCKOM 3aropjy
ckom. Hero
nuD/i v^rDnon.
BeHa, Koje cy, ano hx je KaA h 6ujio,
MHoro crapnje
oa eTHorpa4)CKHx MemaBHHa y hctohhhm h ueHTpajihhm cpncKHM o6jiacTHMa, rjie cy OHa BpiueHa Kpo3
ueo cpe^tbH h hobh BeK, CBe ao AaHac. 36or oBora
ceBep03anaAHe cpncne 3eMJbe, HapoHHTo BocHa, XepueroBHHa, JXanManuja. 6e3 npHMOpCKHx BapouiH h BehH
Aeo UpHe Tope, Ba>KH;ie cy oa yBeK Kao eTHorpa(J)CKH
HaJHHiuhe h HajcBe>KHJe cpncKe o6;iacTH.
Kyha obhx o6;iacTH OA^HKyje ce bcjihkom npoCTopHJOM y kojoj cy ABOp HJIH aBJ.HJa, 6a6HCl, BpT,
nêMft>a 3a ceHO, KOTap 3a
h KapMa 3a ApBa. Ha
KyhaMa cy o6hhho ABOja BpaTa, MaAa epaiRa h iupeM-
amy
chca h;ih
zoAeMa epaiua. Hcnpen roêMHx BpaTa
je
xoahhk, kojh ce 30Be upeiuKyka. BpaTHHue Ha rojieMHM

BpaTHMa cy jane, oa ApBeTa, h 3aTBapajy ce H3HyTpa
noMohy HaponHTHX jaKHX rB03AeHHx nojiyra h 6paBa.
DiaBHe npodopHJe cy Kyha" (Kyxntba), OAaja, OAajne,
npHJaiejbCKa caaja, napAaK, TpeM h hepa;i. y hckhm KyhaMa canyBaH je MpaqaH npocTOp, uondiiAa, Koja je
HeKa.aa c/iy>KH.7ia 3a HohHBan>e CTOKe, a caâ ce ynoTpe6jbyje 3a ocTaBy. TiepajiH cy Ha aoh>cm cnpaTy, h
c/iy>Ke h^h 3a croKy h;ih 3a qyBaFbe pa3Hor jecTHBa:
MacTH, cupa h Kynyca. Ocrajie npocTOpHje cy Ha cnpaTOBHMa. Ha cnpaTy je HaJBaaandja npocTopHJa Kyha.
OnbHUJTe je o6hhho nopeA 3HAa; H3Ha# H>era je ouaK,
y o6;wKy H3BpHyTor JieBKa, kojh xBaTa ahm c onbHHiTa. yHyTpauiH)OCT Kyhe y onuiTe je HCTOBeTHa ca
yHyTpaiHH>onjhy 6a;iKaHCKe BapouiKe Kyhe. Obh ouaim,
MycaHêpe h AOJiann, AOKa3yjy â ce OBa Kyha pa3BHja;ia yrjieAafceM Ha 6a;iKaHCKy BapoiHKy Kyhy. 3a OBy
o6âcT KapaKTepHCTHHHa je npocTopHJa cKpu6miu,a,
HHJa nojaBa npeAcraBJba jeâH BeoMa n3pa3HT AOKyMeHaT 3a couna^He h hmobhhckc npHJiHKe Koje cy ao
npe roAHHy AaHa y oboj o6;iacTH B/iaAa;ie. CKpH6HHua
je HajcKpHBeHHJH Aeo Kyhe. OHa je TaKO noAeuieHa Aa
ce He Mo>Ke ona3HTH, a c/iy>KH 3a cKpHBa^be cTBapn
oa noxape." Kao nooieAHua HecnrypHa acHBOTa h Kao
AOKyMeHT h 3a couHajme npn^HKe, Mory ce CMaTpaTH
h ABOJa HacnpaMHa BpaTa y Kyhn, o6;ihk BpaTHHua h
naHHH 3aTBapan>a BpaTa. HeKe oa thx nojaBa 6H;ie cy
:
3a TypcKO BpeMe pauiHpeHe no ue/iOM FIo^yocTpBy, h

CByiia cy HMajie hcth 3HaHaj, jia ce oa 3y/iyMhapa naKiue
caKpHj'y h yMaKHy: >KeHe, êBOJKe, ;byiiH h HMafee.
HBOpOBH Cy MaXOM nOn.TOHaHH, 063HiiaHH Be/IHKHM 3H-
TeiuKO yhH y h*hx.

EiiiHozpacpcKe CipuAiiKe.
ETHorpacJ)CKe npH.iHKe
y 3ana;iHOJ ManeiiOHHJH cy mhoto KOMn.iHKOBaHnje ho
h y je/uioM ^pyroM neny Ba^KaHCKor no/iyocrpBa. OBae
ce iioiwpyjy Cp6H, TpuH, Ap6aHacH, ApoMyHH h Typun.
TâBHH iieo CTaHOBHHUJTBa caMHihaBajy Cp6H. Ohh y
BeheM iie/jy 3ana^He ManeiiOHHJe MHHe KOMnaKTHy Macy,
Koja je KOMnaKTHHJa h Maibe pa30HJeHa ho ujto je to
oiynaj y apyrHM iie/iOBHivia MaKeiiOHnje. CaMO Ha H>ehhm jy>KHHM h 3anaiiHHM rpaHHuaMa B/iaiia MeuiaBHHa
Hapoiia h eTHorpacJ)CKO mapeHH/io.
Hiiyhn c jyra H3 Ennpa h jy>KHe Ap6aHHJe, enHpckhm nyieM, Cp6a He\ia CBe no npece^HHe FIpeBTHca
HBaH Fl/iaHHHe, ochm 2 3 ceâ cpncKa y KopnaHckoj kotvihhh. HacTajy y npecnn. HBaH n.TaHHHa h
IlpeBTHC cy eTHorpac^cKa rpaHHua H3Meljy TocKa h
Cp6a, ann h H3BecHa Ky/iTypHa rpaHHua. Jep KpajeBH
jy>KHO oil IlpeBTHca cy noil noTnyHHM yTHuajeM rpqKOBH3aHTHJCKe Ky/iType, naTpHJapmnje h rpMKor HauHOHa^H3.\ia
h TOCKancKO CTaHOBHHHJTBO h ApoMyHH ocehajy ce Kao FpuH. CeBepHO or FlpeBTHca th Ky/iTypun
HauHOHa^HH yTHuaJH 3HaTHO ocna6e. CaMO MHoro6pojna
cpncKa Tonorpa(})CKa HMeHa KopnaHCKe kot^hhc h jy>KHO
Oil n>e nojiceliajy Ha paHHJe, jaMawHO MHoro6poJHO cpncKO
CTanoBHHUJTBO, Koje je iie/iHMHue eMHrpnpa/io Ha ceBep,
a ae;iHMHue ce y FpKe H Tockc npeTonn/io.
McljyTHM y KOCTypcKoj 06/iacrH HeMa oujTpe rpa-
AOBHMa, tsko na
je
HHue H.-JMeljy Cp6a h CTpaunx napo;ia. Ca.M KocTyp je

THncKa rpHKa Bapouj. y kojoj ce ry6n MyxaMeiiancKa, TypCKa Man>HHa h cacBHM ne3HaTan 6poj no/iynorpMennx
Cp6a. A/ih no ce/niMa necyMibHBO npeoB.ialjvje cpnCKO CTaHOBHHHJTBO, MHJH JC 3HaTaiI RCO y oO.iaCTH HecpaMy, jyro:3ariajHO Oil KocTypa, noTypwen; HMa npn/iHwaH 6poj Ap6anaca, 33thm Ma/in 6poj Oc.Mati.iHJa h
npaBHX TpKa. Bc.ihkh je 6poj naTpujapujHJcKHX Cp6a
kojh npHnajajy rpm<oj napTHJH. Bp.io je jaK yTnuaj
HOBA CPEHJA
184
rpqKO-BH3aHTHJCKe KyjiType h rpuH3Ma. H cejia h Kyhe

cy ApyKHHj'e ho y ceBepHHJHM KoiyinHaMa. Cejia cy BejiHKa, 36HJeHa,
qedo
c bcjihkhm.
haMa, y khth oa ja6;iaHOBa,
MaxoM OKpeneHHM
peTKO
je
KyKoje cejio 6e3
rpMKor hjih UHHuapcKor 6aKajia, a MaBpoBO (y KOMe

HMa 3HaTaH 6poj Tpna h Unnuapa) HMa Behy HapiiiHJy
Kao BapouiHue.
CacBHM cy ^pyra^HJe npHJiHKe y o6;iacTH CapH\)ony. Obo je HaJBeha Typcna oa3a y 3ana/i,HOj MaKe.hohhjh, rycro HacejbeHa Maôa3HJCKHM Kon>apHMa (or
KoHHJe),KOJH 3ay3HMajyo6;iacT ofl KapaTama jxo B/iaxoKJiHcypcKe nâHHHe, h on OcipoBCKor Je3epa ro KowaHa.
CTaHyjy y ABe BapouiKue, Kajaâpy h IJyMH, h y npeno
cto, MaxoM Ma^HX cejia. Oco6hto je rycT hh3 TypcKHx
ce;ia Ha jy>KHoj hbhuh njioziHora ByuaKa: 3eMJbHuiTe
jio6po o6pal]eHO, Be;iHKe KaMeHe Kyhe c bhtkhm ouaUHMa H KapaKTepHCTHHHHM o63HAaHHM ceocKHM 6yHapHMa; H^yhH ceBepHOM o6ony CapHôjia, npeMa FleTpcKOM h OcrpoBCKOM Je3epy, 3eM^HuiTe nodaje HeujiOAHHJe, ceâ cBe 3anapô>KeHHja: Befc Ha^daHTKej
je TaKaB, a Cothp join BHtue. Jy>KHa rpaHHua Cp6a
npo;ia3H OBae Octpbckhm je3epoM, 3aTHM MajiKOM,
Hnne h KH3^H-ZI,epBeHTOM. Ajih jy>KHO or OBe rpaHHue
odaiy Meljy KOH>apcKHM cTaHOBHHuiTBOM HeKOJiHKe cpnCKe oa3e, HapoHHTo ceâ IlaTejiHK, Bp6eHH h CypoBHMeBO,
Ca CTaHOBHHLUTBOM eHeprHMHHM H Heo6H4HO BpeAHHM.
;
Ha
3ana/iy ce Cp6H rpaHHue ca Ap6aHacHMa.

Ca.ua Ta rpaHHua npo;ia3H Oxphackhm Je3epOM,
TaKoJ'â je Ha 3ana^y on H>era je^HOCTaBHO ap6aHaidko CTaHOBHHiuTBO, Koje 3ay3HMa h dapy cpncKy
o6âcT MoKpo, 3aTHM Topy Ha jy>KHOJ cTpaHH je3epa;
Ha 3anaAHOJ CTpaHH OxpHflCKor je3epa cpncKO je ce;io
caMO Panoxvia, a y JlHHy HMa caMO cpncKa MatbHHa.
no cpncKOJ HOMeHKJiaTypH bh^h aa je

Ha 3ana^y on OxpHACKor Je3epa oko peKe ZleBOJia
h IUKyM6HJe 6hjio cpncKO CTaHOBHHiuTBO. Ha jieBOJ
CTpaHH HeBo.ia, oaiviax Ha 3ana^y oaMycKOTOJba, Ha;ia3H
ce o6;jacT OnapH, 3a nojy H3 xpoHHKe MycaKHJeBe 3HaMO
na je y 15 Beny 6H.na HacejbeHa Cp6nMa; ohh cy ce Ty
m MHoro ôuHHJe 3ap>KajiH, jep y 6HTOJbCKOJ kotvihhh
Me^yTHM
ce
3AnAAHA MAKEAOHHJA
HMa cpncKor cTaHOBHHUiTBa Koje je nopeK/iOM H3

Onapa. y hctoj kot/ihhh, na hsk y Ko3JanHJH, Ha cpnCKO-TypcKoj rpaHHUH, HMa cpncKor craHOBHHUJTBa Koje
nopeKîOM H3 e;i6acaHCKor Kpaja.
Ha Oxphackom Je3epy je mKne jeâH #eo oho
noKpeubHBe eTHorpac})CKe rpaHHue H3Met)y Cp6a h Ap6aHaca Koja ce HapoMHTo y TOKy nocne/uba TpH BeKa
Ha iiJTeTy Cp6a npeMa HCTOKy noMepa/ia. Kao na je
ap6aHaujKO npo^wpaihe npeMa Hcimy 3aycTaBH/ia boneHa Maca OxpHACKor Je3epa, jep, Ma aa h Ha HCimy
on H>era HMa Beh 3HaTHHx ap6aHaiHKHx oa3a y IlpecnH
h 6nTO- bCKOJ kot/ihhh, HnaK cy Ha ocTa/iHM TawKaMa
OBe rpaHHue Ap6aHacn aa/be Ha hctok npo;ip/iH. Kao
UJTO heMO ÔUHHJe BHêTH, TO HHJe H3a3BaHO BehOM
n/ioAHOinhy Ap6aHaca ho Cp6a, Beh apyrHM y3pouHMa,
noMaBHTOTHMeujTo jeoBoôj.HpHa .iHHHj'a H3Me^ynaopy>naHorap6aHaujKorcTaHOBHHiuTBa noB/iamheHe MyxaMeiiaHCKe Bepe h HeHaopy>KaHHx Cp6a, kojh cy >KHBe;iH
y je^HOj 6ecnpaBnoj ApwaBH. 36orTora Beh oko Crpyre
nOxpnâ, join BHiiieHa jyroHCTOHHoj cTpaHH Oxpnackor
Je3epa, qecTo je B/ia,aa/ia ;iHWHa h HMOBHa HecnrypHOCT.
Ha ceBepy on Oxpn^CKor Je3epa je Ae6apcKa
je
eHeprHMHO h pa3y3#ano
ap6aHaujK0 n/ieMe UnGpa/inje, Koje je He caMO noapGana
ujh/io HCKaAaujiby cpncKy 06/iacr >Kyny, Ha /ieBOj o6a/in
UpHMa, Beh npeuj/io h Ha êcHy cipaHy UpHMa h Be/ihkhm oa3aMa Hace.iH/io Pa^HKy. ro/ieMy Peny, 3ajac,
Khmcbo, h npo;ip:io CKopo no Be/icca Ha Bapjapy. Join
ce y nâHHHCKoj 06/iacrH H3Met)y Kopa6a h Bacrpe, y
06/iacT, y kojoj CTaHyje Bp.no
Ka3H, norviaBHTo y Ma/ioj Peun, ,ap>KH

eHeprHMHO n.ieMe cpncno Mnjaun, kojh >khbc y Bp.io
bc/ihkhm 36hjchhm ce/iHMa h 36or kojhx Ae6apcKH ApGaHacn HHcy Be3aHH ca cbojhm oa3aMa Ha HcTOKy.
H3Meljy He6pa h OxpH^CKor Je3epa iia.ia3H ce
o6/iacr jano H3MeujaHor CTanoBHHUJTBa, c o6e crpaHe
ZlpHMa, 06/iacr je.iHMHue apHayTCKa h noapHayhefla,
a ae/iHMHue y nponecy noap6aHaiuaBaiba. O^p/Kaâ ce
Kao mhcto cpncKa 06/iacT ZU'6pua, oko CftTecice, AC
npHTOKe ZlpHMa fte/IH ce na I'opn.y H Zloiby ZU'6pny.
ra CBera 22 ce.ia, on kojhx cy caMO 6 MH(}).iyuH
naj
peKa-iHJCKoj
186
HOBA CPBHJA
Behe je ce.io GiaTHHa, ca 140 Kyha, a.iH MyjinpcKO cejnuiTe je Ma.io ceno 3jer.iaBe. CpncKH je h Uphmko/i,
ca r.iaBHHM ce.iHMa Ja6.iaHHUOM, MoapnqeM h Jlynobom. Me^yTHM oj y.ia3a UpHMa y ZUooBJaHCKy Kjihy HacTajy Ap6aHacn, c o6e CTpaHe peKe, 3aTHM
RBJbQ ao J.e6pa mcuiobhto cpncKo, ap6aHauiKO, Typcko h noMaMKo CTaHOBHHiiiTBO obh nocie^foH cy BeHhhom noap6aHaiueHH.
OcTa.iH HapojH 3anaaHe ManejOHnje, Ka^ ce
ancTpaxyje oj onHcaHHx rpaHHHHux oo.iacTH, jaB.*bajy
ce Kao Behe h.ih Man>e oa3e h aHK.iaBe y ohoj ochobhoj ciOBeHCKOJ MacH, 3aTHM no BapoiiiHMa, HHHehH y
HeKHMa 3HaTHe BehHHe. Meljy s>HMa ao/ia3e Ha npBO
Mecro Apo.MyHH, He tojihko no opojy ko.ihko no 3HaT;
hom yTHuajy.
OBje cy ApoMyHH MHoro6poJHHj*H h or Beher
3Haqaja,
He caMO 3a BapouiKH )khbot,
^pyroM npajy MaKenoHHJe. He/ia
ho h y
Koje.vi
ce y ABe rpyne, Koje
ce 3HaTH0 paauncyjy.
1. JejHH cy HOMajcKH Apomvhh, koj'h cy o6hhho
nopeK.ioM H3 jy>KHe ApoaHHJe, HapoMHTO H3 MycaKHJe
h H3 FIjiHja, h 30By ce OapujepnoTH. HckVbyqHO cy
cronapH ca OBuaMa, He peTKO uptae h epre/ie KOH>a.
HeMajy cra.iHHx craHOBa. JleTO npoBOê no 6a.iKaHM n.iaHHHaMa, oj dape n.iaHHHe y CpoHJH, na jo
ne.ionoHecKHx n.iaHHHa, h majy caMO nacrHpCKe npnBpeMeHe craHOBe hih Ka.iHBe. y jeceH c.ia3e y npH-
Mopcne paBHHue ErejcKora h JoHCKora Mopa h/ih y

npocrpaHe >KynHe kot.ihhc, nor.iaBHTO y Teca.injcKe, y
ypyi&nyK Ha hctohhoj crpaHH O/iHMna, y co.iyHCKy
KaMnafoy, y MycaKHj'y, y n.ioBjHHCKO noê oko MapHue, y cepeck-y h tjeBlje/iHJCKy KOT/iHHy. Ty npe3HMe
ca ctokom, na ce y npo/iehe Bpahajy y n.iaHHHe.
OBe ApoMyHe ciobchcko 6a.iKaHCK0 CTaHOBHHUJTBO 30Be
B.iacHMa, UpHOByHmiMa, CapaKaqaHHMa, h KapaKaqaHHMa. ApoMyHH HeMaiy CBOje n.iaHHHe, h CBe hm je
Te>Ke n.iahaTH cnyne name 6a/iKaHCKnx nâHHHa.
H y 3ana^Hoj MaKejoHHJH je Ma;iH 6poj apockhx CTOHapa. CapanaMaHH h 4>apinepHOTH zio.ia3e
noj cboj'hm crapeiLiHHaMa, Koje 30By qe.iHHUHMa, Ha
3AIIA,HHA
MAKETOHHJA
187
FlepHCTep, Ha JaKynnuy ca Co^yhckom, Ha Hnne, KapaTaui h Ta^HHHuy. HMa hx CBera hcko;ihko croTHHa.
y jeflHOM Kpziy HMa no hcko/ihko xH^>aâ oBaua. hbnx
npaie wobaHH h/ih haje, kojh ce pacno3Hajy no Hapomhtom ujTany, Bp;io ayraqKOM h npn Kpajy /ieno H3BHJaHOM H H3pe3aHOM| TO je HCTH LUTan KOil CBHX CTOnapa Ba^KaHCKor no/iyocrpBa. Y3 h^hx Hiiy Mo6aHCKH
Hia Kpâ ce Kpehe HaTOBapeHO ue;io apoMyHCKO

noKpeTHO ce/io
Ha KOfoHMa h Ha MarapuHMa jamy
jbyjw h >KeHe, y ceneTHMa cy Haipnana Aeua, h ochm
Tora Ha CBaKOM Koiby cy HaTOBapeHH Hh;ihmh, he6aA,
noHâBe, jacryun, 3aTHM aacKe, h totobo CBa Kyhua
iipBeHa rpalja h KyhHO nocylje. Upejx Bene HanpaBe
maTop Ha MepaMa", h Ty npeHohe, a koh>h h OBue
oko inaTopa nacy. CaMO je^Hora aaHa Ha noMeHyTOM
MecTy cpeo caM 1520 Kpaa, oko 50 60 xn/baaa
ncn.
OBaua.
2.
A/ih
rviaBHo
apoMyHCKO CTaHOBHHiHTBO 3ana-
ahc MaKeAOHHJe HHHe cra;iHO HacraibeHH ApoMyHH no

ce/iHMa, BapoujHuaMa h BapoujHMa, kojh ce 6aBe najpa3HOBpcHHJHM 3aHHMaibHMa, ochm 3eM;bopa;iibe, ii
koa Hac cy no3HaTH noA hmchom U,nHuapa; OBAe âK/ie HC\ia ApoMyHaseMôpa^HHKa, kojh cy h HHawe cacbhm peTKH, a HMa hx jcahho Mel)y OapiuepnoTHMa
y MycaKHJH h hcujto Ma/io y Mer/ieHy, y Jy>KHOM MaKeaoHHjn. Flo oG.iacTHMa y KOJHMa CTanyjy Mory ce
noAe.iHTH na ABerpyne: 6HTOJbCKO-KpyineBCKy, h B/iaxoK/incypcKy. I3poj cra.MOBHHUJTBa y thm rpyna.Ma H3Beo caMH3BajraAOBC CTaTHCTHKe, Koja ce noKa3a.ia Kao
na>KJbHBO paljeHa h y rviaBHHM upiaMa noy3aana.
BHTOJhCKo-KpyujeBCKa rpyna je 3naTHO Beha, h y
iboj HMa 28.000 flo 30.000 ApoMyna, h to y Toneujy,
MaÔBH Ty, TpnoBy c MarapeBOM, HnTono/by, 3a
i
y BlITOJby, KpyiueBy, y Ma/iOM ce.iy
TpcTeiiHKy, h y
ripH/ieny.
y BâxoK^HcypcKoj rpynn HMa oko 11.000 ApoMyna, h to y B.iaxoK.iHcypn, B/iany. Cncany, nmin/iHujTy, h fliJbe na ceoepy oa OBBZ, y HeeeciUl h flucoAepy, h bhluc B/ianjKnx nopo/iHiia y HeroBaHy, Be.n
KaMeHy
.âcKOBuy.
HOBA CPBHJA
188
Ochm OBe ABe
me
cy BJiauiKa ceâ HnaK

y6.iH3y, HMa hx h cacBHM pacTypeHHx: y PecHy h y
cyceiiHOM JaHKOBuy, y Hacejby Ka^HBe, H3Meljy PecHa
h Oxpn,aa (Ma #a ce hckh oh obhx Kpehy), y Oxpnuy
h ce;iy Be^HUH koa CTpyre, 3aTHM Ha jyry y BhjihKopâHCKe KoiviHHe: apoMyHiiiTy, Kop^H, y ce^HMa
ckoj CTonaHH, apoMyHCKOJ IlJbacH, h y MopaBH; 3athm y XpynHiiiTy, TpeBeHH, LLIaTHiHTH h Ko>KaHy.
Ca nocJie^fcHM BapoiuHuaMa HMa ApoMyHa y 3anaiiHOJ MaKenoHHJH oko 45.000. hjih CKOpo Va on
cbhx ApoMyHa Ba;iKaHCKor FIojiyocTpBa, me hx no BajraHAOBOJ CTaTHCTHUH HMa oko 150.000.
fIo.ao}Kaj h THn apoMyncKHx Hacejba, Kao h ran
Kyha, Bpô cy KapaKTepncTHHHH. FIpBa upTa kojom ce
o# cJiOBeHCKHx Hacejba pa3^HKyjy, jecre Be;iHKa bhCHHa
cBa cy bhcoko H3HaA cjiobchckhx ceâ, oa
900 1.200 m. BHCHHe, y bhchhckoj 30hh, rê KyjiTypHe
6HJbKe TeuiKO ycneBajy. Rajhe HHcy y jioJiuuaMa, Beh
no cTpaHaMa nâHHHa, Ha KocaMa h rviaBHuaMa, Ha noJIO>KaJHMa KOJH Cy yBeK >KHBOnHCHO, KaiHTO apTHCTHMKH
H3a6paHH; OBaauiHDH Cp6n, ochm MnjaKa, ocHHBajy
cBOja ce/ia y AcnHHaMa, TaKO aa ce He npHMehyjy aok
hm ce He npn6;iH>KHMO. To cy .najbe 3apaBH nâHHHckh noô>KaJH, jaKO cyHnaHH 36or TeMnepaTypHe hhBepcHJe, 3hmh MaxoM TonjiHJH Hero #Ha KOT/iHHa. y HHMa
h oko H>HX cy Haj6ojbH H3Bopn. no npaBHJiy h 6ncTpe
nâHHHCKe pennue, Koje cy y BaâMa cnpoBcaeHe Kpo3 Hacejba. H3Hazi ce;ia je o6hmho 3a6paneHa JiHCHaTa ropa,
HMa me me h qeTHHapa H3MeinaHHx c 6yKBOM, KopHj*e."
CBa ceâ cy BejiHKa Kao Bapouitme h BapouiH,
h Kyhe cy 36njeHe, a;iH ^pyK^nje 36njeHOCTH ho no
cpncKHM cejiHMa: Kyhe cy jeflHa H3Ha pyre, TaKO
rpyne,
#a pen bhujhx Kyha npo3opHMa ivieâ npeKO peaa

hh>khx Kyha; CBe HMajy naKJie cno6ojxaH nomeji Ha
KOT.iHHy, h;ih aKO cy oko rviaBHua, HMajy nor/iea Ha
BHine CTpaHa. CacraBJbena cy on crpMHx h MaxoM ycKHx
y/wua, Koje cy creneHHHacTe, Kao gradini jy>KHO HTaMecTH cy hopcoKaun. Kyhe cy
^HJaHCKHx BapouiH
KaMeHa
3H#aHC,
Oil
y hckhm ce^HMa 3HaTHHM #e;iOM
op TecaHa KaMeHa, MaxoM ^socnpaTHe, cnnqHe #aKfle
;
3AnAHHA MAKEflOHHJA
189
poMaHCKo] KyhH Koja ce jaB;ba oko Cpe>ao3eMHora

Mopa, CMMO UJTO MeCTO paBHHX H HHCKHX KpOBOBa
HMajy BHiue on ruioqe h hepaMHê. yâ3ehH y Kyhy
y.3 creneHHue, &o\)e ce Hajnpe y jeaaH HajnpocipaHHJH
iieo, noâTHy, Koja ce Hana3n h Ha AOtbe.M h Ha ropHjeM cnpaiy Kyhe. a caivio Ha houuKOBHMa Kyhe cy cooe
h KaMape 3a ocTaBe; Ha notteM cnpaiy jeaH hoiuaK
3ay3HMa KyjHa. OHa Be.iHKa npocTopHja je ca jwsaHHMa h MHoro6poJHHM npo3opHMa y \ho'j ce npeKO
;
cem
h Ty ce tocth npHMajy.
Hcth cy /laK.ie no;io>KaJH h THn ce/ia Kao kor
ApoMyHa, TpKa h TocKa EnHpa. Flo CBeMy cy HiieHthmhh ca HacejbHMa yM6pnje h Jy>KHe HTa.inje, caMo
hjto y H>HMa HeMa ohhx ocraTaKa CTape Ky^Type, a
y.mue cy Kao h TaMO ca gradini-Ma. H Kyha je ciHMHa
jy>KHo-HTa/iHJaHCKOj, H3MeH>eHa oho^hko ko/ihko oiurpa
K/iHMa 3axTeBa.
3a BehHHy Hace;ba ce noy3naHO 3Ha za ce HHcy
pa3BHâ H3 Ka.iHBa HOMancKHX ApoMyHa, Beh cy hx
ocHHBa^H ApoMyHH, kojh cy h paHHJe >khbc.th y cnimhhm BapoiHHMa h ce.iHMa. Hhko ce y obhm apoMyHckhm ce.iHMa He 6aBH 3eMJbopajiihOM, hhth ce y ibHMa
y oniuTe 3HaTHO npnBpeljyje. To cy ce.ia apoMyHCKHx
ryp6cuHJa, MaihHX h.ih Behnx penTHJcpa. 3aTO Hiije hh
noTpe6HO aa OBa Hace/ba 6y;iy na r/iaBHHM KOMyHHKaca\io je y
UHJaMa. Ona cy yBCK o/i h>hx yaa/bena
Ma.ioj Mcpn na to Mor.ia yTHuaTH TOKiba za 6y^y
K'.loii.CHa h 03 HacHJba.
flocerHO caM b3>khhj^ apoMyncKa iiace.i.a iiomch>'thx /iBejy rpyna, n Kao npHMepe 3a imixob ran,
3aTHM pa.T H /KHiiOT y ibHMa h '.a ry6cpT.iyK, H3/io>KHhy cBoja upoMaTpaiba o hcko-ihkhm.
HopeK/iOM H3 KpajcBa jy>KHO oa ripcBTHca, OBH
ApoMvnn rpuH3npanH cy jouj/ih y 3ana;my MaKeaoHHjy. .3na.in cy rpMKH Kao h cboj je3HK, ko.i mhothx
ce rpHKH H koh Kyhe roBopn.io. florviaaHTO cy ohm
4>opMHpa;iH 3accCny xpmijhancKy Mapmnjy n "lapiiinjcKH
HaMHfl >KHBOTa, OHaj ihto cy ra johc.ih K3 MyaconbJbh rpaMOCKC o6.iacTH. M caja Boae hc ca.vio TproBawKc Kfbgre Ha rpMKOM je3HKy, Beh je to rviaBHH je3HK
iiaHa
>
190
HOBA CPBHJA
xpHiuhaHCKe napiuHje, aajbe otmchh je3MK, kojhm ce

no HdHxobom MFbeHby MO)Ke CBe Haj6ojbe na H3pa3H. Ohh
cy ce HSJeAHa^HJiH ca rpuHMa h ocHHBa^n h H3^p>KaBajiH rpHKe uiKO/ie. To cy KpyroBH y Kojwvia je HajBHiue ueHbeHa rpHKa MynpocT". Oco6hto ce ueHe h
CMaTpajy 3a HajnaMeTHHJe JiyKaBH Jbynu. Th qapuinjckh ApoMyHH h TpuH cy HajcuaHHJH BejiHKOj naTpHjapUIHJCKOJ UpKBH H HecyMtBHBO BpJIO no6o>KHH. HdHxoBe Kyhe .zumiy no6o)KHOU]hy. Mojie ce Bory no Ba
Tpn nyTa npeKO aaHa h ype^HO nocehyjy upKBe h o
it>HMa ce cbojckh crapajy.
node
CBe nocTOBe,
cpe,n.y
h neTaK. Flo AyBapoBHMa co6a Bnce H3Be3eHH HamncH

kojh onoMHtby Ha mhjioct h Ka3Hy Bo)KJy. HapOHHTO
cy )KeHe no6o>KHe h Bp.no Mopajme; nopOiiHMHH )khbot
je HBpcT h cpoiiHHqKa ;by6aB 3HaTHa. Kao h hckhm
HapOAHMa, no6o>KHOCT hm He CMda #a 6yny HaJBeuiTHJH, necTo pa(j)HHHpaHH eKcn;ioaTaTopH cbojhx 6jih>kh>hx. Ajih hx je Ta oâHOCT BepH BHUie cnpeqaBa;ia aa
ce He Typqe ho ocra;ie 6a;iKaHCKe xpHinhaHe: TpuH, a
HapoHHTO UnHuapn cy ce HaJMan>e on cbhx TypMH/iH.
H OHAa Kan hx Be^HKa UpKBa HHje MOivia na 3auiTHTH,
Kan cy hm h pa3opeHe h Bapoinn h yHHUiTeHa HMaiba,
ohh ce HHcy TypHHJiH, Beh cy ce pa36erviH y Matte
onacHe KpajeBe.
ApoM>HH H3 noMeHyTHX TpHj'y rpyna, a HapoMHTO

ohh H3 3ana^He MaKeaoHHJe, hihjih cy y ryp6eiyiyK
no BapouiHMa h jkhbjbhm MecTHMa Ba;iKaHCKor riojiyodpBa, HapoMHTO nope^ rjiaBHHX ApyMOBa. Y3 fbHx cy
hujjih h npaBH TpuH. riopeA EBponcKe Typcne nona3Hjih cy y Cp6njy h Byrapcny, HapoMHTO npe ocjio6oIjefba, h npe;ia3H^H cy ZlyHaB; noK cy y Cp6nJH h y
cpncKHM o6;iacTHMa ceBepHO on ZfyHaBa npeoBJiaijHBa/in U,HHuapH, y ByrapcKOJ (HapoMHTO Hctomhoj PyMe^HJH) 6h/io je MHoro BHHie TpKa, kojh cy 3HaTHHM
nej\OM 6unu CTapHHUH. Ajih cy caMO nojcuHHanHO, na

h to peTKo, npoflHpa;iH y ceBepo-3anaAHH aeo Ba.nKancKor nojiyocrpBa, on MnTpoBHue Ha ceBep, y CaHuaK, BocHy c XepueroBHHOM h 3ana.aHy Cp6njy, HaPOmhto perKO y Y>KHue, Jlo3HHuy, BajbeBO, ManaK,
KpajT>eBO. Mel)yTHM, cra;iHO cy ce HacTaitHBajiH, no-
3AHAAHA MAKEflOHHJA
191
qapumjcKH e.icMCHaT y noMopaBCKHM

BapowHMa, h y hckhm >KHB/bHM MeCTHMa HCTOHHe Cp6nje. flope^ Typaxa nor.iaBHTO cy
ohh (J)opMHpa.iH THn dape napujHJe, Koja ce MO>Ke
Ha3BaTH rpMKO-UHHuapcKOM. riocp6/beHe miHuapcKe h
rpMKe nopoAHue 6n/ie cy MecTO h or 3HaTHor no.iHTHHKor yTHixaja (HHKO.ia XpHCTHh H3 B;iaua, TeoprHJaAecH H3 <J>ypKe. TepMaiiH H3 MarapeBa, h up.). A/ih cy
HapoHHTO no;i HjHxobhm yTnuajeM (})opMHpaHa 3aHHera/in cy r/iaBHH
h noiiyHaBCKHM
xaHUnja h 6aKa/ia, kojh cy ce pa3HQj/iH h H3BaH

BapoiuH, no cBHMa MecTHMa >KHB;bera paiia h cao6pahaja.
Th THnoBH cy y Cp6ajn CKopo Hiime3/iH, a/in caM
npoMaTpao i{>hxob HaMHH >KHBOTa h pana y Teca/iHjH h 3ana^Hoj MaKCAOHHJH, r\ae cy join y nyHOM jeKy. y mhofhm
ce/iHMa nocToje xaHOBH y3 kojc HMa h 6aKa.iHHua, h y
Teca^HjH je OBa Ba>KHHJa ojxaHa. Th 6aKa;iH u cy no
npaBH.iy naJHMyhnHJH Jbyjlh cbojc oko^hhc MaxoM h
Bp/lO UCU>eHH, Ii TH Cy KHpHOC" H,1H, KaKO C.Y HX KOA
Hac 3Ba.in, KHp" nan hnp u
yBeK cy 6aKa.iH y 3ana^HOJ MaKcÔHHJH UHHuapn h/ih Tpun, noHeKH rpuH3HpaH TocKa. Th OKpeTHH .i>y^H, HMajyhn Bume BpeMeHa, Ao6njy nper/ieA Hajx npocTHM ckohomckhm >khbotom ce/baKa CBOJe oko/ihhc napoMHTO côbchckhx,
kojh, paAchii 3CM:iy, He mhc.ic h/ih ncMnjy BpeMeHa Ra
MHC/ie, h MecTO HeMajy npervieja hh naa cbojhm B/iacnithm CTatbeif; 3Hajy npnxoji h eKOHOMCKy BpeaHocr cBakot ce/baKa h no3HaTHM HanHHHMa hx eKcn.ioaTHUjy no
Kpaja. Ilor.iaBHTo na oBaj nauHH cy ce oGoraTH/in Behnna rpMKHx h UHHuapcKHX cnaxHj'a h TproBaua y 3aMatt>a
naiiHoj MaKeAOHHJH. A/ih ce npH xaHUHJCKo-oaKa.iCKOM 3aHHMaiI,y KOA CBHJy pa3BHJe UHUHJailJTBO, KOJC
hx hh o6oraheHe ne uanyiuTa. /loui/in cy BehHHOM H3
Aa/hmie y crpany eTHorpac})CKy cpeAHHy cavio p.
3apaAe, luto Belie 3a llito Kpahe Bpeice, >aa on ce paHHje ca ryp6eT/iyKa KyhaMa BpaTH.in. He Tpawe yrJiena h qaCTH on Tora, EbHMa crpanor CBCTa. 3najy
KaKo je h.hxobhm npeuHMa h/ih n>H\ia caMHMa oth.viana h pa3opaBana HMOBnna KaKo hm mo/kc 6hth cnpemch paa iia flyxce Bpeue, h iaTO Tpeoa ncwa/niT;:
rehH, h to hm nocrane r/iaBHO 3a BpeMe ryp6eT/iyKa.
H0BA UPkHJA
192
EKcnôaTaTOpCKH paa UHHuapCKHx h rpMKHX xaHi,iHJa h 6aKa;ia, kojh cy y3 to h ununje, 6ho je rJiaBHH
pa3ôr aHTaroHH3My kojh ce pa3BHO H3Met}y ujhpokhx
cjiobchckhx Maca, cpncKHX h 6yrapcKHX, h H3Mel)y IpKa h
UHHuapa. A^h najhe, CBaKa japocT Typcna npeMa xpHui
haHHMa H3^HBaâ ce norviaBHTo nan OiOBeHHMa, jep
cy ce TpuH h UnHuapH, Kao rnnqn h My/ipHJH, 3Ha;iH
tojihko na H3MaKHy #a Typcna HacHjba h>hx mhmon\)y; HCTHHa to HHJe moitio yBeK 6hth, h no3HaTO je
aa cy h ohh nam. Ha nocjieTKy cy TpuH h UnHuapH
HaJ)y Ha^HHa jya y^y y Typcny Qj\ym6y Kao
yMe/iH
ehHMH, MyaBHHH, 3acTynHHUH xpnuihaHa, h t. . J\o\\6hth He3Ha;iHue, to hcto cy
HHj'e, Ka,n cy npecra;iH
pa;m/iH h 6a^KaHCKH CjioBeHH, HapoHHTO ByrapH, am
HnaKHHcy TpuHivia onpocTH^H. Y3 to cy aoiujie upKBeHe, er3apxHJCK0-naTpHJapuiHCKe h HaunoHa;iHe 6op6e
H3Metjy TpKa h Byrapa, Koje cy noMeHyTH aHTaronH3aM flOBe/ie ô HaJBHiue TaqKe. To ce CTajioaowo, h
y3ajaMHa Mp>KH>a H3Metjy TpKa h Byrapa nocrajia je
totobo oco6nHa HapOAHHX ^yiiia.
ApoMyHCKe oa3e y 3ana;moj MaKejiOHHJH Mory
HMaTH H3BecTaHHiauHOHa/iHO-nojiHTHHKH 3Hanaj CaMOaKO
ocTaHy y Be3H c TpuHivia, y hhjoj cy 6;ih3hhh h no^
hhjhm cy Ky/rrypHHM yTHuajeM. PyMyHCKa nponaraHâ
HHje hh y oboj, 3a H>y HajnoBO^HHJoj 06/iacrH, HanpaBH/ia Be.iHKuxycnexa, am je HnaK rpqKH yTHuaj *bOMe
y HeKO^HKO ocâ6êH. Ochm Tora HMa y noc;ie,zitt>HM
AeueHHJaMa cnyqajeBa Jia ApOMyHH h OBê ry6e CBOj'y HaUHOHa^HOCT, npe/ia3ehn y GiOBeHe. MeJjyTHM je noCJieatbe peÔBaH cjiyqaj ca ohhm ApoiwyHHMa kojh
ocraHy ayro ro^HHa y ryp6eTJiyKy hjih ce cra;iHO Ha*
CTaHe y Cp6nJH h ByraprKOJ. HapOHHTO hx HecTaje
MeniOBHTHM >KeHHii6aMa. Ha nocjieTKy, U,HHuapH cy necto 6e3 aeue um ca Ma/io aeue. 3aT<> je HecyM^HBO
A? he BpeMeHOM HecraTH UnHuapa y 3ana,aHoj Mane;iohhjh, oHaKO Kao uito hx je CKopo Hecrajio y Cp-
6hjh h ByrapcKOJ."
IloAOMaj eapoiau. Hanpca cy noMeHyie apoMyHCKe BapoiHH h BapoiuHue, Koje cy 6e3 npaBHX
Be3a ca cbojom oko^hhom, HHcy 36or the nocra;ie, hhth
3AnAflHA MAKEAOHHJA
cy Ha
H>y
jane
193
To cy Haceâ apoMyHCKHx
ynyheHe.
ryp6epi,iHJa.
fIo/IO>KaJH CBHX OCTa^HX BapOLUH Cy 3aBHCHH oa

reorpacf)CKHX h ckohomckhx npn/iHKa iuHpe oko^hhc
h/ih caMO CBOJe kot^hhc To cy Ha npBOM Mecry BapoiHH Koje cy nocra/ie Ha r/iaBHHM TaqnaMa ap6aHaHJKO-MaKeôHCKor nyia h/ih crape Viae Egnatiae; zajbe
Cy OHH eKOHOMCKH UeHTpH CBOJe KOT/IHHe h/ih jeiiHor
Ha noc/ieTKy cy yBeK Ha no/io>KaJHMa
Ae/ia Ft>e3HHa
KOJHMa cna3^ h/ih or kojhx no/ia3e nyTeBH H3 je^He
KOT^HHe y apyry. Me^y ft>HMa ce pa3/iHKyjy RBe rpyne:
je^He cy Ha >Ke/ie3HHMKOj /ihhhjh Koja boah oa Coj\yna BnTo/by, h Te ce mhoto 6p>Ke ckohomckh pa3BHjajy h >KHB^>e pacry, Kao Bhtojb, JlepnH h CyÔBHneBo;
zipyre cy Ha ohom zie/iy ap6aHauiKOMaKeÔHCKor nyia
Ha KOMe B/iaaa CTapH cao6pahaj h npeHoc, h OHe ce
c/ia6o pa3BHJajy hjih CTaiHHpajy, Kao Oxpnjx, CTpyra
h PecaH. Koa BHTOâ je on Ba>KHOCTH join jeaan moMeHaT: fceroB 3HaTaH crpaTerHJCKH no/io>Kaj, 36or Kora
je nocTao
h cpe/iHiUTe no/iHTHHKe ynpaBe BH/iajeTa;
oh je Ha H3/ia3y ap6aHauiKor nyia 3a 6HTo/bCKy kot;iHHy h npeMa TOMe h ueHTap h K/byn 3a bojhhmkc
;
noKpeTe npeMa Ap6aHHJH y HOBHJe BpeMe je ao6ho

Behn 3HaMaj h Kao bc/ihkh bojhh^kh ueHTap cnpaM
TpqKe; oh je 6ho HaJBa>KHHJH bojhhmkh ueHTap ysanaahom ae/iy eBponcKe TypcKe, h n>eroB je rapHH30H peAObho 6ho bc/ihkh 10.000 20 000 ;byAH.
Ochm CypoBHMCBa, CBe ropibe BapoujH cy â;
K;ie Ha OAa6paHHM reorpa({)CKHM no/io>KaJHMa cra/iHe

BpeAHOCTH, h, Kao ujto je HanpeA yTBpljeno, Ha
FhHMa cy joui or rpMKo-pHMCKe enoxe yBeK nocToja/ia 3HaTHa Hace/ba. CaMO ce CypoBHMeBO ammo oa
KaKO je carpafyena >Ke/ie3HHua h HMa y/iory H3B03He
h
yB03He TaMKe 3a CapHô/i, uHnuapcKa Hace/ba
B/iaxoK/incypcKe 30He h 3a KocTyp. y c/ieacliHM peAOBHMa 6nhe npeoraB/beH aeTa/bHH reorpa<}jCKH no/iowaj h >khbot cbhx r/iaBHHX BapoujH 3anaAHe Ma-
KCAOHHJe.
HOBA CPBHJA
HOBA CPBHJA
94
1.
Ehtojl.
BHTOJb je Ha 3ana4H0J hbhuh ne;iaroHHJCKe kot^HHe, Ha no.HHO>KJy nepHcrepa, OHj,e me âBaTCKa

yflOJbHHa H3â3H y neâruHHjCKV KOT.iHHy. Behn aeo
BapoiuH je oko peKe Zlparopa, KOja, Kao CBe 6yJHe
nâHHHCKe pene, jypH Kpo3 Bapom bc^hkom 6p3HHOM.
KopHTO pene je c o6e dpaHe 03H,naH0, h iteroBe o6e
dpaHe npaTH ôcra npocipaH Kej. Kpo3 jyacHH aeo
BapouiH Tene peqnua Kypy-Zlepe. Oko ZJparopa h H3Meijy H>era h Kypy-Zlepe nemn HajjienuiH jxeo BapouiH,
kojh je BehHM aejiOM ro6ho H3i\aefl cpeAHbe-eBponcKe
BapouiH. Me^yTHM je 6e3HdeH Ha JieBOJ dpaHH ilparopa, a Ty cy h pa3HH TproBH, >khthh, apBapcKH h
CTonapcKH. PeTKa je Bapoiu y kojoj HMa tojihko npa3hhx Meda, Mei\naHa", Kao uito hx HMa BHTOJb Ka^
ce Bapoui nociviaTpa c Kora 6jmyKer dpâ, y ftoj ce
MHoro 3e/ieHH;ia.
Bapoui ce .aejiH Ha ABaêceT h neTHpn Maxajie.
TâBHe cy KAUce win Uphceeno MaAO. Y HdOj cy Kyhe
bhah
Bp/io
CBHJy KOH3y;iaTa, CBe 6aHKe, rpnKa MHTponojinja, rpqKa
upKBa, onuiTHHCKO no3opHuiTe, cpncKe h rpHKe uiKOJie.

TOMe ae;iy BapouiH daHyjy HaJBHUie TpuH, jcjihhh3HpaHH Cpon h U,HHuapH. y PoKKa MaAO je 6n;ia
dyrapauiKa MHTpono^nja c 6yrapauiKHM uiKOJiaMa. Ty
>KHBe noivieuiaHO Tpun h Cp6n. .y Mennap MaAO cy
6h;ih ao npe flBe Tpn roijHHe CKOpo caMe 6auiTe. Ca,na
je to hobh aeo BapouiH. H Ty >KHBe noMeuiaHO Cp6n
h TpuH. TypuH h Ap6aHacH >KHBe y MaxajiaMa Koje ce
30By: EMHp-Heê6n, CaâTaui, ZloraH, KjyqyK, UlaADBaH h ByjyK. CBe cy Te Maxaê c flecHe cTpane
Xlparopa. Ty HaJBHUie HMa h uaMHj'a. MycjiHMaHCKO
CTaHOBHHUiTBO thx Maxajia roBopn TypcKH, ap6aHauiKH
h cpncKH. Ilo 3aHHMau>y cy qHT^yK-caxH6nje, capann,
apa6auHJe h no kojh TproBau. y jyroHCTOHHOM ,ne;iy BapouiH HapoHHTO npeMa upkbh Cb. Heaejbe >KHBe 6auiTOBaHH. HacTaêHH cy y Hobo Ma/io (JeHH Maxa/ia).
Ohh pa/ie HdHbc Koje 3a;iHBajy boaom H3 Zlparopa.
Thx 6auiTOBaHa 6nhe npeKO 3.000 ayuia. JeaHa TpehHHa oa h>hx cy cTapnje craHOBHHuiTBo, a ABe Tpe-
3AnAHA MAKtflOHHJA
195
hHHe mhhh HOBHje CTaHOBHHiuTBO Koje je npe iieccT no

neTHaecr roiiHHa floce/beHO, 36or 3y;iyMa, H3 6hto^ckc
oko/ihhc OABOjeno h HenoMemaHO >KHBe JeBpeJH h
U,nraHH, y EbpejcKoj h Bajnp Maxa;iH. A Ha npajy BapoiUH >KHBe 6ocaHCKH Myxai;npn.
y BHTO.'by HMa cpa3MepHO MHoro na3apa. no
TBpljeH^y Up. J. BacHJbeBHha, y BnTO/by HMa neceT
rviaBHHx TproBaMKHX h 3aHaT^HJCKHx na3apa. HajypeIjchhjh h Haj.TeniuH Tpr y BnTO/by je 6e3uciUeH, kojh
je carpatjeH npn Kpajy ceaaMhaecTor BeKa. Be3HcreH
je carpaêH y HeKO/iHKO pe;iOBa h HMa cto ayhaHa h
npoiiaBHHua. r/iaBHH apTHKa;i kojh ce y nseMy npoAaje je npeACH h HenpeaeH naMyK. 3aTHM ce npoAajy
Haj/ienuje (})paHuycKe h KHTajcKe CBH/ie, nepcnjcKH HhflHMH, (J)paHUyCKH UJTO(t)OBH, flH/IHMH H UJTO(})OBH H3
({)a6pHKe y ce/iy UnoBy. A HaponnTy naaaby npHBâqe
Jienn Iih.ihmh H3 npn/inna h Kowana. Je^Ha oa HajMaBHHJHx MapiuHJa je Bacuukq LIapiuuja. Ty ce y r/iaBhom npoâjy ohh apTHK/in kojc iidjBHLue Tpoiun 6hTO/bCKa oKo/iHHa, a hcto TaKo npoayKTH UHHuapcKe
kvIihc hh,ivctphjc H3 cyce^HHX uHHuapcKHx Haceâ.
je/iaH o& HaJBehnx TproBa y Bhnpoâje HCKJbyMHBO >khto h 6paujHO.
Ha ibeMy cy CBe >KHTapcKe Mara3e. noiiJTO ne.naroHHJcna KOT/inna npe^cTaBâ HaJBa>KHHJy >KHTHHuy 3ana;uie
MaKeAOHHJe, y BTo;by je ycpeacpe^cHa >KHTapcKa TproBima sa hckc Ae/ioBe 3ana;ine MaKe,noHHJe, 3a Ap6aHHJy h Efinp. Ha Aiu-llazapy ce npoiiaje croKa, Koja
ce iiaJBHiue H3B03H 3a TpMKy, h ApBeHapnja. Ha HcK.\ie3ria3apy ce npoâjc naJBHUie neKMC3, kojh npaBe JypyuH H3 Kajnap.iHJa; 3aTHM ce npoâje mcji, HayT 3a
npaiubcibe /ieG.ieCHja, KatLiHKc, a Jiem H /iea. Ha Odyn
,apy ce npo/iajy ,apBa, hyMyp, apBcua jannja, a na
JJchckom Ua.iapy ce npo&aje /ian. Koiion.â, Koje Kynyjy HapoMHTO JeBpeJKe H npepaljyjy. Ha tomc na3apy
je h BuSep'XOH, y komc ce na iuyihko npojaje Bcryuana a.iLBa nanpwKa, 6n6ep h 3Cjthh. flopen obhx
HMajy napoMHTH na;iapn 31 npoâjy pn6c, OBaua, Boha,
oiuaâ h co/ih.
y BirrOJbV cy 3acryn;beHH cbh saHaTH kojh cy
/KuiTiHii
TOJby.
IhiAap
Ha ibCMy
je
ce
196
HOBA CPBHJA
6h/ih 3acTyn^>eHH y EBponcKoj TypcKoj. Cbh cy 3aHaTH

opraHH30BaHH h ypetjeHH ecnacpcKii. y BmoJby HMajy
32
HajcaBpuieHHJH h HajrviacoBHTHJH je ecHa(})

KyjyiiuHj'e HMajy CBOjy y/inuy c JieBe
dpaHe ilparopa, Koja ce 30Be KyjyHunjcKa 4apuiHJa.
Haj6ojbe KyjyHUHj'e cy UHHuapH H3 KpytueBa. Ohh cy
join 3a BpeMe KHe3a MH/ioma ,n;o;ia3H;iH y Cp6njy h
uiapa^H cy khokcbo opy>Kj'e. HMa MHoro uaiiyiiLiija,
kojh Ha Cohom Tpry HMajy oko 50 pa^HOHHua. Hcto
TaKO MHoro6poJHH cy h o6yhapu, kojh ce Ha/ia3e y Jemhuj MapujHJH. Capami cy HCKJbyqHBO Typun, a TaKO
hcto h iuadaqu, kojh npenpaBJbajy Koace, HajBHtue jarft>ehe. HMa MHoro h Jopzawtufa, kojh npaBe jopraHe,
jiymeKe, jaciyKe, HJHJbTeTa h MHHaep/iyKe, a y3rpeii
npoâjy h Kpeq. HoKapn h nyiiJKapn cy HCKJbyqHBO
TpuH, noTKHBaqn cy caMo Typu.n. CmnapH cy Cp6n h
UHHuapH. TiypHHJe cy caMo Cp6n. Xa/iBeuHje h 6o3aunje cy caMo TouKe" (Ap6aHacn). 3H#apH cy Ap6aHacH h Cp6n H3 ce;ia CMHJbeBa. XaMajiH, KOBaqn h
CBHpaMH cy HCKJbyqHBO UnraHH. PpynHcaHH cy y QraM6oji HapniHJH h uleAaAU, kojh npoâjy qbHHHJe crape
CTBapn, a TaKO hcto h 6iubapu, kojh npoaajy jieKOBe
Oil TpaBa. BaHKapH h capacjw cy MaxoM JeBpejn h Tpun.
TaKO aK/ie y ijejioM npHBpenHOM >KHBOTy OBe BapouiH
oceha ce He caMo crapa 6a;iKaHCKa h TypcKa npnBpe^Ha opraHH3auHj'a Beh h BepcKa h HauHOHa/ma noijejbeHocr caMor CTaHOBHHUiTea. Oceha ce #a CBaKa
HauHJa HMa cbojc Hac/ie^He, hjih c/iyqaJHO npHMJbeHe,
HaKôHocTH npeMa h3bcchhm BpcTaMa pa#a h 3aHHMan>a.
y BHTo/by HMajy qcrwpH npaBocJiaBHe upKBe h
jeziaH napaK/inc, 3aTHM 37 uaMHj'a, KaTO/iHHKa h npoTecTaHTCKa upKBa h Tpn jeBpejcKe 6oroMOJbe. CXa; npaBocâBHHX upKasa HaJ3HaMeHHTHJa je upKBa Cb. JJhmhTpHJa, Koja je o6HOBJbeHa 1830. 3HaMeHHTa je h upKBa
Cb. Heêjbe, Koja ce Ha;ia3H Ha npnêncKOM jipyMy.
To je CTapa o6HOB/beHa upKBa. y ii>y ce CKynjbajy ceJbauH H3 oko/ihhx 6HTOJbCKnx cejia. 3a ceâM uaMHJa
ce TBpiiH #a cy carpaêHe na MecTHMa Ha KOJHMa cy
HeKaii 6n;ie upKBe. H3Met)y cbhx uaMHJa Haj*3naTHHja
je McaKHJe Ha BHTTIaaapy.
ecHa(})a.
KyjyHyLujctai.
197
3AriAilHA MAKEflOHHJA
BHTOJb je 6no cpejwiuTe 3a cBe BepcKe n HaunOHa^He nponaramie y 3ananHOJ MaKenoHnjn. Ho ooio6o\)etha y Brno/by je 6h/io ocaM pa3HHx rnMHa3nja n
no^yrHMHa3HJa (rpqKa, cpncKa, 6yrapcKa, py.viyHCKa,
nne TypcKe, no jejHa jeBpejcKa n ;ia3apnTCKO-KaTO-
Ochobhhx ujKO/ia TpuH cy nMa;w 10, Cp6H 3,

ByrapaiuH 3, Typun 33 MeKTe6a, aMepHKaHCKa MHCHJa
n KaTO^HMKa no 1. nopen Tora Typun cy nMa/in ynn-
;iHMKa).
Te/bCKy ujKOJiy n jezwy 3aHai7injcKy ujko ly.'KfonwapHHua cy HMa^H Typun 4, Tpun 2, Cp6n n Byrapaujn
no 1. LUraMnapnje cy HMa/in Typun 2, Tpun n Ap6anacn no 1. TpMKe njKO.ne n upKBe n.viajy 6oraTe (J)ohilOBe, oko 18 000 eHr.iecKnx /inpa. Hcto TaKO CBe uaMnje n\iajy 6oraTe BaKy(})e.
riopejx OBora Tpun nM^jy #Be CBOJe 6o;wnue, a
Ap>KaBa je mvia/ia Tpn. Y3 ibnx cy 6n/w riacrepoB 3aboa n ^yiiHHua.
HajnHTe/inreHTnnje n HajHanpezmnje cTaHOBHnujtbo npejicTaB.'bajy Tpun n UnHuapn Onn iiajy toh ue-
Bapomn. OHaj cpa3MepHO Be/WKn eBponcKH n3rvieii

BnTo.'by cy nann ohh. HajMHoro6poJHnjy n Haj6o/by
nHTe^nrcHunjy HMa/in cy UnHuapn.
Hcropnja BnTo:ba Hnje jacna hh oho/wko no3HaTa Kao ndopnja apyrnx Behnx Bapomn HoBe Cp6nje. Mnc.in ce &a je y 6/w3nHn BnTO/ba 6n/ia Bapoin
XepaK/iea, wnjn ce ocramn Bnê na jy>KHOJ CTpaHn BnTo.ba n^yhn ce/iy ByKOBy. H iiHaie oko BnTo.-ba n.via
Mnoro TparoBa on ncKnx crapnx pa3Ba/inHa. IToa nMehom Buto/h (BovtsXlov) cnoMnibc ce 1014 3a BpcMe
B/iaae uapa CaMynâ. H3 ncror BpcMCHa, 1019
20, y
jejxnoj noBe.-bn uapa Bacn/inja cno.vwtbe ce 6nTO/bCKn
enncKon. Hmc Maiiacrnp, KaKO ra caaa 30By crpaHun,
a noKaTK3A n AOMahe cpncKO craHOBuniUTBO, noMntoe
y Behoj Mepn aa ce jaB.i.a tck y 17 BeKy. TypcKn
nncun 17 BeKa 30By ra To/in-MaHacTHp, a to tie 6.nn
;ioj
ujto n BnTo/b-Manacrnp. V upwaBn Kpa/ba ByKamnHa Brno

je 6no jezwo Oil Ba>Knnjnx Mecra. 0,i
Cp6a cy ra ore/in Typun 1382-83, Koje je npciBo
ndo
1.
BojcKOBoha la;ia LlIaxnH.

WnaK w;i cBera OBora ce
biiiii
na Bhto*. wnKan
HOBA CPBHJA
198
HHJe 6ho OBaKO Hanpczma hh oBaKO Ba)KHa Bapoui Kao

iiito je aaHac. Oh je nocrao OBano Ba>KHa Bapoui Ten
y noneTKy êBeTHaecTor BeKa. y 19 BeKy nocTao je
eKOHOMCKH uenTap 3a CBy 3ana;my MaKeflOHHJy, 3a
3HaiaH neo Ap6aHHJe h EnHpa. hberoB ckohomckh 3Haqaj 3HaTHO je nojaqaâ h co/iyHCKa >Kejie3HHua, Koja ce
y H>eMy 3aBpinaBa. TpMKH h ap6aHaujKH ycraHUH KpajeM ocaMHaecTor h noneTKOM AeBeTHaecror Bena yrauajiH cy 3HaTHO a Bhtojb nocraHe hojihthmkh h aaMHHHCTpaTHBHH uemap 3ana,nHe MaKeAOHHj'e. FIoiiito
je 1829 30 CBJianaH ap6aHaniKH ycraHaK, Bhtojb je noCTao r/iaBHO aAMHHHcrpaTHBHO cpe^HuiTe OBor Kpaja.
Hoivie je BHTOJb 6HBao noa npH3peHCKHM h cnonCKHM BHâjeTOM, a JCZIHOM H UOA TiyCTeHAHJIOM. ToAHHe 1835 nocTaje ceAHurre PyMe;iHJCKor BHJiajeTa. ToAHHe 1844 CBeneH je Ha ce^Hune caHuanaTa,
nocTao je oneT ceaHurre Bajinje, a 1868
a 1864
oneT je CBcaeH Ha cpeAHurre 6HTOJbCKor canuaKa, kojh
je noTnaâo nojx co/iyHCKH BHJiajeT. 1874 y3BHineH je
onêT Ha cieneH BHJiajeTCKor cpe^HtuTa, a 1876 cBe/ieH
oneT Ha cpe^HiiiTe caHuaKaTa. ToiiHHe 1881 KOHa^HO
je noaHrHyT Ha creneH BH/iajeTCKor ce^HiHTa. Bhtojbckh BHJiajeT 6ho je bckhk 27.300 KBaapaTHHX khjioMeTapa, a HMao je neT caHuaKa: 6htojbckh, cp6hmkh,
ê6apcKH, KopnaHCKH h eji6acaHCKH.
-
HaJMHOro6pOJHHJe 6HTOJbCKO CTaHOBHHUlTBO HHHe

Cd6h npaBOCJiaBHH, 3aTHM TypuH h Ap6aHacH, na OHâ
U,HHuapH, h nocaeAHoH cy no 6pojy TpuH. npe ocjio6olieH>a panyHajio ce #a y BHTOJby HMa 3000 cpncKHX.
3800 TypcKHX h ap6aHaniKHx, 1000 unHijapCKHx h 200
rpMKHX Kyha. HajcTapnje 6HTOJbCKO CTaHOBHHUlTBO npe^craBJbajy TypuH. Meijy H>HMa HMa nopoiuma Koje cy
or Ha3aA 300 ronma y BHTOJby. npe^craBJbajy mhpho
H ÔCTa nHTOMO CTaHOBHHLLITBO. HMa H3BeCHHX TOKfoa
h 3a eBponcKHM >khbotom. Cpe.aHjeBeKOBHO cpncKO crahobhhlutbo 6h/io je MaxoM pacejbeHO h yHHnjTeHQ. HaHauiH>H Cp6n noHejiH cy ce y Bhtojb HacejbaBaTH KpajeM ocaMHaecTor BeKa, a Hajjaqe flocejbaBan>e H3BpineHO
je y apyroj nojioBHHH aeBeTHaecror Bena. HocejbeHHun
cy
MaxoM H3
cejia
6HTOJbCKe h npHJinncice
OKOJiHHe,
3AnAAHA MAKEAOHHJA
199
HMa hx h H3 ocra/iHx 6;ih>khx BapoujH h HdHxobHX

HMa hx Aocra oa He6pa, 3aTHM oa TeTOBa h
fIpn3peHa. H LlHHuapH cy ce jaqe noMe.in Hace/baBaTH
Ten y ocaMHaecroM BeKy KaA je pa3opeH h>hxob rpaA
MycKonoê. Uhhlupcko ct3hobhhiutbo ce CBe BHiue
yMHOKaBaô AOceâBahbeM H3 UHHuapcKnx Haceâ no
6hto^>ckoj okoahhh. MHoro hx je npeTonêHO y TpKe.
Ap6aHacH cy ce Hace/iH/iH c jyra h ca 3anaja. Ap6aHacn
xpHiuhaHH n TouKe u AOce/beHH cy MaxoM H3 EnHpa. Ohh
cy crapHJH AOce:beHHUH h BehHM Ae/iOM npeTanajy ce
y Tpne, a KaTKaA h y Cp6e. M;iat)H AOce/beHHUH cy
MycÔMaHH Ap6aHacH, kojh cy nopeK/ioM H3 pa3HHx
ccna 6HTo;bCKe h npn/iencKe okoahhc h oa Re6pa.
JIhctom ce npeTanajy y TypKe. y AaHaimboj ApHayTMa^H HeMa CKopo HHJeAHor Ap6aHaca.
CrapHJe BapomKe Kyhe npnnaâjy Tnny online
6a/iKaHCKe BapomKe Kyhe. Taj mn Kyhe cmo onnca.iH
y CKonjby OBAe je KapaKTepncTHMHo luto MHore Kyhe
3ay3HMajy Be/iHKe npocropnje, CBe cy .thucm OKpeHyTe
ynyipa h 3aTBapajy ABopnuiTe y o6;iHKy KBaapara h.ih
napa.ie.iorpaMa. Y TaKHM KyhaMa o6hmho HMa bhujc
cranoBa. Te Kyhe HMajy H3rvieA xaHOBa h/ih KapaBanckhx CTaHHua KaKBe cy ce CBe AOcaA OApmane y
06/iacTHMa y KoJHMa B.iaAa khphuhjckh cao6pa!iaj. Kao
nocaeAHua 3aTBopeHor ncroMtbaMKor >KHBOTa Mory ce
CMaipaTH MHoro6poJHH KanHUHUH kojh no3aAH Be>Ky
cyceAHe xyhe. KannuHKe HMajy h xpniuhaHH h MycioManH. FIpHMajy Aa je y MyT6ax-CoKaKy KannunuMMa
noBe3aHo npeKO iue3AeceT Kyha. 06oa npocTopa kojh 3ay3HMajy Te Kyhe Ayr je npeKO 400 m. riouiTO CBaKa
TaKa Kyha HMa h 6aiHTy, oiua je pa3ymbHB0 Aa ce y
TaKOJ rpyrm 0,1 Kyha MO>Ke ziaKO caKpHTH. M/iaAOTypun
cy Ch/ih napeAH/in Aa ce cbh KannunuH na xpniuhaiickhm KyhaMa 3a3HAajy.
Bhtoa je iiaJBHiue npHMHO eBponcKora. h oa
cbhx Bapoiiin HoBe Cp6nje Menu ce y uinn.io Aa oh HMa
HaJBHUje eBponcKora. JaKH eBponcKH yTnuajn bhac ce
a
cejia.
y H3MeA>' uapoiiJH, rpaAH.n hobhjhx K>ha, houjhh craHOBHHIHTBa H IbeTOBy >KHBOTy. Th Ky.iTypHH na:ipeTUH
aouj/ih cy oa Be3a ca Co/iyHOM, 3aTHM oa 3HaTHor
200
HOBA CPBHJA
6poja UHHuapcKHXH rpqKHx nopOAHua, HapoHHTo npBHx,

Koje nyiyjy no uejioj EBponH h y cBoja 3a6aneHa
Mecra AOHOce MHoro eBponcne Ky^Type h acHBOTa. To
Hanio npeo6pa)KaBaFbe y3poK je iiito y BnTOJby HMaMo
Bp/io Ma/io CTapHX Kyha, ohhx npocrpaHHX MycnoMaHckhx Kyha Koje ce o^HKyjy bcjihkhm npocropnjaMa,
MHOiiiTBOM npo30pa h (J)hhom pe36apHJOM. TaKe Kyhe
Ha^Hqe Ha capaje, h OHe cy 3HaK Be^HKor rocnoflCTBa,
OHora HCTOHHDaMKor êyjiajiuor rocnoACTBa. HsrvieAa Aa
je TaKO rocnoACTBO HeKaAa Bââô h y obhm o6;iaCTHMa, anu je noqejio 3HaTno onaAam CnojbainibH h
yHyTpauiH>H mrneji 6eroBCKHx Kyhay MaKeAOHHJH qedo
caMO noAceha Ha OHy pacKom opHeHTa^CKe apxHTeKType, opHaMeHTHKe h pe36apHJe KaKBe ce nearo BHâjy
no Kyhaivia GocaHCKHX 6eroBa. OHaKHX ;ienoTa h OHaKe
pacKowH Koja ce h caA bhah no MHorHM 6eroBCKHM
Kyhnivia no CapajeBy, TpaBHHKy, Baiboj JlyuH, Mocrapy
h TpaaaMuy, ja caM BeoMa peTKO nieAao y MaKeAOhhjh h Crapoj Cp6HJH. ria nnaK MaKeAOHCKH 6eroBH
hhc> CHpovaiiiHHjH oa 6ocaHCKHx. Ha npoTHB, ja MHcjihm Aa cy mhuto 6oraTHJH. Cjaj y cnojbHeM H3nieAy
Kyha, HannHy aaiBOTa h OAeJia MHoro je BehH y Bochh
ho y MaKeAOH^jn. 36or Tora y Bochh jom h caAa
cpeTaMO BHuie opHeHTajiCKe pacKoinn ho y MaKeAOhhjh. MaKeziOHCKH 6eroBH cy H3rvieAa BHuie noâra^H
Ha xapeMCKH >khbot ho 6ocaHCKH. MaKeAOHCKe 6eroBcKe Kyhe cy 36or Tora qecTO yivieAHHJe H3Hyipa ho
cnojba. CBe je yAeinaBaHo 3a >kubot HceHCKHH>a y xapeMy h 3a npoBOAH>y c ibHMa.
HocaAa cy canyBaHe y BnTOJby ABe TaKe ciape
6eroBCKe Kyhe. CTapHJa h HHTepecaHTHHJa je Kyha
XauH-CiviaHJi 6eia h Mycra(j)a-e(})eHAHJe y EMHp-Maxa^H. Ty caM Kyhy AeTajbHHje onncao h chhmho. C jiHua
je Ayra 27 MeTapa. FIoAe;beHa je h npe3HAaHa Ha ABa
Ae/ia, oa kojhx jeâH 3ay3HMa 18, a ApyrH 9 MeTapa
LunpHHe. Ja caM noKyuiao Aa je chhmhm OHaKBy KaKBa
je H3rjieââ npe Hero je nperpatjeHa h Aa je (J)otorpa(J)HUjeM y ue^HHH. Uo panyHy 6hto^>ckhx TypaKa
Ta je Kyha rpaljeHa npe 250 ao 300 roAHHa. Oko He
je npocTpaHa 6anm, Koja hhhh jeAHy npocTopHjy
3AI1AZIHA MAKEflOHHJA
201
c aB;iHJOM. BauiTa je nyHa uBeha h BohaKa. Kpo3 6auiTy

Tene noTOK, a Ha cpe^HHH aB/inje je /ien boaockok.
y npeceKy Kyha HMa o6j\hk npocTpaHa HeTBopoyrvia
HHJe cy y>Ke crpaHHue ABanyTa Behe on Kpahnx.
CpeiiHHy Tora napa/icnorpaMa 3ay3HMa bc;ihkh npocrop
kojh mhhh xajaiu. C iiecHa h c .rceBa o^xajaTa cy
BeoMa npocrpaHe co6e c nehHMa Koje ce /iowe H3 cyceiiHHx co6a. OBe co6e HMajyomiiTH H3r;ien co6a jeAhq OBaKe opHeHTa^CKO-TypcKe Kyhe. H30Ko;ia cy hhckh npocrpaHH MHHAep/iyun ca iiiHJbTeTHMa. BpaTa cy
yBeK y je^HOM yrviy, H3Me^y jiBa 3H#a. y BpaTHMa ce
pa3/iHKyje cno;bHH h yHyTpaiuhbH neo. yHyTaptt>H aeo
BpaTa OHBHMeH je (J)hhhm pe36apHj*aMa Koje cy Heo6ojeHe, >KyTe h mhctc na 3aT0 MHHe npHJaTaH yTHcaK.
TaBaHH cy yKpaiueHH (})hhom pe36apHJOM. y houieTHMa
cy Ha MHHiiepHMa Hapcmma uiHJbTeTa. ripo3opH cy Be.thkh, bhahh, ca nyHO MafbHX OKana, h MeAajy y 6aiUTy.
y co6aMa HMa MHoro no/inua, pa(j)OBa h .ao.iana, ;ieno
H3pe3aHHx. Ha no/iHuaivia cy or/ieaa/ia. CTaK/io h apyre
CHTHHje CTBapn. y ao-ianHMa cy cnaBahe xa;bHHe, zyiiieuH h jopraHH. XajaT je naiocaH MepMepoM, a code
.aacKaMa. y cpe^HHH xajaTa je inecTocrpaHO ncnynweH>e H3 Kora ce y3AH>Ky MpaMopHH CTy6oBH kojh
ap>Ke 6a;iK0H, kojh ce 30Be ja3/iyK. Ha ropibH cnpaT
Hae ce y3 creneHHue Koje cy OA6e/ior MpaMopa, ca ^pBeHOM /ieno H3pe3aHOM orpaôM. Ha roptbeM cnpaiy
ja3/iyK 3ay3H\ia cpeziHUJHH aeo hcto OHaKO Kao luto
ra 3ay3Hvia xajaT y /unbeM. C ibera je BaHpeaaH norên na nepncrep h OKo/iHHy. .flecHO h /icbo cy oâje
Koje cy nyHe npo3opa ca 6e36poj Ma.inx OKaHa, 36or
kojhx H3ê,aa Ra je CBa Kyha y craK/iy. CBaKa oâja
HMa cboj 3ace6aH H3/ia3aK na TaBaH. Hnrjie ce He iue
H3 co6e y co6y. Co6e cy Heo6nMHO npocrpaHe h nyHe
Ba3/iyxa h CBeT/iocrH. One cy hcto onaKO HaMeujTeHe
Kao h co6e. CaMO HeMajy nehn. Mefyy ibHMa je je;wa
oaaja 3a rocre. HoMaha Me/ba;i 3hmh >khbh y AOH>eM,
a êTH Ha roptbeM cnpaTy. 36or Tora ropibH cnpaT h
HeMa nehn.
BnTOJb HMa zieny OKo/iHHy. Ct3hobhhujtbo 6o^>e
ce KopwcTH npnpo^HHM^ênoTaMa ho craHOBHHUH apy-
202
HOBA CPBHJA
thx ManeiiOHCKHX BapoiiiH. MHoro6poJHe cy 6anrre y

BapouiH h Ha nepncfiepHJH BapouiH y Koje ce
H3â3H Ha Te(J)cpHH. FIpaBe ce H3JieTH h y OKo;iHHy.
MHoro HMa npHBaTHHx eKHnano h Ko/ia Koja ce y3HMajy noji HajaM. Ta(j)epHHH cy opneHTajicKH cneunajihtct, a y BHTOJby H3r/ieAa HMa HaJBHuie CMHG/ia 3a
to. Ha Te4>epHHe ce Hê y OKo/ma cejia h y MaHaCTHpe. Ha hdHx H,ay h xpniuhaHH h Typun. Hapo^HTO
ce H3êTH npaBe JieTH y TpHOBO, MarapeBO h ByKOBO.
OBa ce;ia HMajy H3rjiea BapouiH, h y ibHMa ce >khbh
h pa^H BapouiKH. MHorn TproBUH <HBe y TpHOBy h
MarapeBy. a pa^n,e ;jp>Ke y Bum/by. y TpHOBy je MaHacTHp Boropo^HHHHa ycneH.a, a y MarapeBy CBeTor Tbopt)a. Ha ca6op tphobckh OJia3e CBa 6/iH>Ka h
MHora ^.ajbHa ce;ia. y Te MaHacTHpe AOJiase Ha Tecj)epHH h TypCKe h xpnuihaHCKe nopoanue. H MHore npoBeay TaMO no Behn #eo /ieTa. y thm cejiHMa 3HaTHO
je pa3BHj'eHa TproBHHa, a y HOBHj'e BpeMe noqejia ce
pa3BHJaTH h HHnycTpHja. y TpHOBy HMa (J)a6pHKa rajTaHa h 3a 6ojen>e npe^HBa 3a flOMahy noTpe6y. y
ilnoBy HMa Tpn 4>a6pHKe uiaJKa, hH/iHMa h raJTaHa. y
(J)a6pHKaMa pa^H no 250 ao 300 pa/j,HHKa. y ByKOBy
ce npepat}yje nyBeHa 6yKOBCKa nanpHKa. CTaHOBHHKa
HMa y BHTOJby 48.370.
caivioj
2. IIpHtzren.
H3Mel)y cbhx BapouiH h rpaôBa cpeaibeBeKOBHe

Cp6nje FIpH/ien hjih npn/inn je, y aouhhjhm BpeMeHHMa, nocTao y cpncKOM Hapo/iy Hajnony-napHHJH. y
cpncKOJ Hapo^HOJ necMH peTKO je kojh apyrn rpaa Tano
oneBaH Kao ujto je ripH/wn MapKa KpajbeBHha. Hapo^Ha necMa neBa MHoro h o RpyruM BaponiHMa cpejiH>eBeKOBHe Cp6nje, HapoMHTO o IlpH3peHy, KpyiueBuy,
Cna^py h o CMeaepeBy. A/ih H3r/ie;ia aa je y cpncKOM
Hapo^y, HapoMHTO y iberoBy 3ana^HOM .ne/iy, ripHJien
h Hajno3HaTHJH h HajnonyâpHHJH. CpejubeBeKOBHe Hapo^He Tpa^HUHJe HaJBHuie cy ce 3a,nD>Kajie Ha .zusa
MecTa cpeAHeBeKOBHe Cp6HJe, h to Ha KocoBy h FlpHzieny. FIopeA KocoBa npHJien je HaJMHJinje Hauie hcto-
jrtliAAn-^
fflftntAunrun
KocoBy h npn/ieny HcneBane cy HajPhjcko Mecro.

MHoro6pojHHJc h Haj.ieniue HapoAHe necMe y KOJHMa
ce oneBa Hatua cpeAtoeBeKOBHa npoui/iocr. Kocobo h
npH/ien canHJbaBajy ABa HaJBeha h Haj/ieniua uHK/iyca
uauiHx HapoaHHx necaMa. 36or Tora CBera Kocobo h
npH/ien npeAcraBJbajy ABa Hajno3HaTHJa h Hajnony.iapHHj'a Meda HoBe Cp6nje.
FIonyâpHOCT KocoBa âniue je o6jacHHTH. Koa
npn/iena cy oa Ba>KHOCTH Bp/io MHore cTsapn. Ha
npBOM Medy, HHTepecanTno
je
iuto je IlpH.ien Hajno-
ny/iapHHJH h iuto je HaJBHiue 6ho oneBaH y 3anaAHOM

Acny cpncKor HapoAa, HapoMHTO y Upnoj Fopn, 3anaAHOJ Cp6nJH, XepueroBHHH, Bochh h Ha^MauwJH.
3aTHM je HHTepecaHTno to ujto npn;ien HHj'e npeACTaBjbao hh HaJBehy hh Haj/ieniuy Bapoiu y cpenibeBeKOBhoj Cp6HJH. Ta Be^HKa nony/iapHocr npn/ieny je Aoui.ia
caMO or Tora iuto je oh 6ho npecromma MapKa Kpa/beBHha, HaJBehe /iereHAapHe ahmhocth y ue/iOM JyrocnoBeHCTBy. Upo6.ieM MapKa Kpa;beBHha HHJe AOBOJbHO
o6jaLuibeH hh y cpncKOJ .iHTepapHoj HCTopnjH, a jouj
Matte y AyxoBHoj hctophjh cpncKor HapoAa. 3Ha ce
Aa oh HHJe npeAcraB/bao hh HaJMyApnjer B.iajiaoua hh
HaJBeher BojcKOBoijy, hhth je ocraBHO H3a ce6e KaKBa
Be^HKa Ky/iTypHa h no^HTHMKa Ae.na, hhth je npoiunpno cpncKy ApwaBy. fla nnaK je nocTao HajnonyâpHHJa jyrociOBeHCKa HCTopnjcKa /ihmhoct. MaK ce Mowe
pehn Aa je MapKO Kpa/beBHh Hajnony/iapHnja .ihhhoct
Ha ueôM Ba^KaHCKOM no/iyocrpBy. Jep neMa hctopnjcKe Ga^KaHCKe ahhhocth o kojoj cy to/ihkh h TaKO
pa3HOBpcHH napoAH neBa.nn h Koja je nony/iapHa Ha
Tano npocTpaHoj TepHTopHJH, Kao ujto je MapKO Kpa;beBHh. Hcto TaKO je HHTepecaHTHO iuto je Ty nony/iapHOCT nocTHr.ia HCTopnjcKa .ihmhoct Koja noTHMe H3
jeAHor HapoAa kojh Hiije, 6ap y cpeAtfeeM BeKy, npeA-
craB/bao HaJKy/iTypHHJH 6a/iKaHCKH HapoA. HiiaK Taj

npHMep ujto je /ihmhoct Koja je Hajnony/iapunja Ha
Ba/iKancKOM no/iyocrpBy 6n/ia cpncKor nopeK/ia h
ujto je >KHBe/ia Kao cpncKH B/iaAa/iau, cbcaomh o Be/ihkoj jiyxoBHOj CHa3H cpncKor HapoAa. Ako ce AyxoBHa
jaMHHa jeAHor Hapo/w Mowe uchhth no yTHuaJHMa Koje
luun
Vji
unun
oh BpujH Ha cyceAHHM nêMeHHMa h HapoAHMa, onâ

caM npHMep KpajbeBHha MapKa Haj6ojbe cbcaohh o
TOMe /ia cpncKH HapoA npeAcraBJba AyxoBHO Hajja^H
Hapoa Ba^KaHCKor no/iyocrpBa.
3a Hac je OBê or BaaoiocTH Ra. KOHcraTyjeMO to
flpH/ien nocrao TaKO no3HaT h crcaBaH caMO 36or
je
jxa
Tora ihto je 6ho npecroHHLia KpajbeBHha MapKa. HHane
no CBHMa cbojhm ocodHHaMa FIpHên npeAcraBJba Bapom
Apyrora HJiH.HaK h Tpehera peAa. He Ha;ia3H ce hh
Ha je^HOM oa HaJBa>KHHJHx cao6pahajHHX nyTeBa. CKopo
je^HaKo je yAajbeH h oa BapAapcKe rojwhq h OAcrapor iipaqKor nyTa. 36or Tora HeroB reorpacj)CKH nojio>Kaj Heivia hh OHaj cbctckh 3Hanaj Kao luto ra HMa
Beorpdn m Co.nyH, hhth HMa oniiiTH 6ajiKaHCKH 3Ha*iaj
Kao ihto ra HMa CKonjbe h Hhuj. Hcto TaKO HHJe eKOhomckh npencTdBHHK OHaKO npocTpaHHx o6;iacTH Kao
ihto je 5nTo/b h Kao ihto je y cBOje BpeMe 6ho npH3peH. Oh jc caMO ckohomckh h Kyjirypnn ueHTap Majie
npHJicncKe kot/ihhc h join hckhx cyceAHHX 06/iacrH.
Kao luto je no3HaTO npnjiencKa KOTJiHHa je Aeo BejiHKe nejiaroHHJCKe kot/ihhc, Koja ce AeJiH Ha 6nTOJbckh h npHêncKH Aeo. FlpHJiencKH Aeo nejiaroHHJCKe
kot/ihhc MOHce ce CMaTpaTH CKopo Kao 3ace6Ha kotjiHHa, Koja je ca TpH CTpaHe hbpcto orpaiêHa h or
6HTo;bCKor Rena. OABOjeHa jeABa hckojihko KH/iOMeTapa
iiiHpOKHM npeBojeM kor A/iHHaua. To je OHaj npeBOJ
kojh je y Hac no3HaT uor hmchom BaKapHO TyBHO, Ha
KOMe ce 6n;ia OHa cnaBHa 6nTKa y npBOM 6a/iKaHckom paTy.
Or ocTa^HX KOTJiHHa 3anaAHe MaKeAOHHJe npnjiencKa KOTJiHHa ce OA^HKyje THMe ihto je HajBHuie
eKcnoHnpaHa npeMa 3anaAy h ihto HMa HajjiaKuie h
Haj6p>Ke Be3e ca CpeAfoHM h ropH>HM FIoBapAapjeM.
Ca Tpn CTpaHe onKOJbeHa je bhcokhm h npocTpaHHM n/iaHHHaMa, y KOJHMa HMa bhcokhx npeBOJa h npece^HHa
Koje ce Aajy AaKO 3aTBopHTH h 6paHHTH. To cy npeceA^HHe: Fl/ieTBap, npeKO Kora Hue nyT 3a odJiacTH Pajau h
THKBem, ripncaA, npeKO Kora HAe nyT 3a Ronuny Ba6yHe
h 3a Beêc, h xaiHKa npece^HHa, npeKO Koje HAe nyT 3a
ceô BoroMH/iy. FIopeA obhx nyTeBa or BaaoiocTH je no-
h.ih KHMeBCKH nyf, kojh nae npeKO nmviyKa Bapno.io>Kaj kojh je npnpojHo
6apoce. FIpH.ien aakvie
BeoMa jaKo yrBpêH, a.iH kojh unaK aonyiuia Be3e h
KOMyHHKaiiHJe y CBHMa npaBUHMa. T^khm no.iOKajeM
jB/beHa je eKOHOMCKa h crpaTerHJCKa Ba>KH0CT ripH.iena. Ta crpaTerHJCKa Ba>KH0CT 6H.ia je y3?ok ujto je
FIpH.ien y cpejH>eM BeKy. HapoMHTO 3a BpeMe BH3aHTHJCKe B.iacTH, npejcraB.'bao HajBa>KHHJe Mecro y jaHaiuttjoj 3anaaHOj MaKcjOHHJH. OHa je hcto t3ko jeaaH
01 y3poKa iuto je, Kao norpaHHMHo bh33hthjcko yTBp-
peMKH
ma
ayro BpeMeHa 6ho npejMeT 6op6n H3Me^y Cp6a

h Bh33hthh3U3.
HcropHJCKa npoui.iocT npn.iena je, nnaK Bp.io
npoMeH."bHBa, Kao ldto je 6h.i3 npoMeH.-bHBa npoiu.iocr
Hh H>eroBa HajcTapHJa npoirniocr
ue.ie OBe 3eM.T>e
HcninaHa.
jOBO.i>HO
Oa npH.iHKe npe XH.-bajy roHHJe
jHHa OTeuie ra oj TpKa Byrapn. Kaj cy Tpun >hhujth.ih 6yrapcKy ap>KaBy (roaHHe 971), 3aB.iajaiue h
FIpH.ienoM. Ta B.iacT Tpaja.ia je caMO hcko.ihko roaHHa, jep ra oc.ioCoan shsmchhth MaKeaoHCKH uap
CaMyn.io. kojh je 6ho Tacr Cb B.iajHMupy, B/iajsouy
3eie h IlpHMopja. y 3HMy 1014 rojHHe, nocie HaMe
cmpth CaMVH.ioBe, OTeme Tpun h3hobo OBaj rpaa h
ap>Kaiue ra aBecra h ujecHaecT roaHHa. rioc.ie no6eje
KOjy je, rojHHe 1230. Haa rpMKHM uapeM ToiopoM
KoMHeHOM oap>Kao 6yrapcKH uap JoBaH AceH II npnnaje ripH.ien ByrapHMa, kojh ra ojp>Kauje caMO KpaTKO
BpeMe, jep ra Beh 1246 ocbojh ennpcKH jiecnoT Mhxan.io AHê.i II. a oa H>era 1254 rojHHe JoBaH Baiau,
rpMKH uap. y caBe3y c MuxaH.iOM AHhe.ioM 6ho je
cpncKH Kpa.-b ypouj, kojh je roaHHe 1258 6ho ocbojho
Ilo.ior h o6.iacTH CBe ao ripH.iena. Zla /ih je 6ho ocbojho h npn.ien, He 3Ha ce TaMHO. TpwKH uap noiua/be
npoTHB Kpa/ba Vpouja h aecnoia Mnxan.ia BOJCKy
kojom je 3anoBejao Mmxieio ria;ieo:ior, jouhhjh bh3aHTHJCKH uap Ma.io H3a Tora nouja.'by y noMoh MhxaH.iy h Jpyry bojck)' noj 3anoBe;iHHUJTBOM Tbopfya
AKpono.iHTa, kojh 3ay3Me npn.ien h yjapn Ha Vpouja,
a.iH ra Cp6n koa flpH/iena noiyKOUJe. flpH.ien nnan
t}ett>e.
HOBA
20b
CPfcHJA
Cp6HMa Beh cnnpcKOM AecnoTy, ojx Kora

aouHHJe noHOBO oayseine Bi3aiiTHHUH.
3a CBe BpeMe BH3aHTHjcke BJiaiTH, hcto TaKO h
nojx apyrwvi cpeijfoeBeKOBHHM rocnoâpHMa, FIpHên je
npe^CTaBJbao HajBa>KHHJe bojhhhko h hojihthhko Mecto He caMO y Sana^Hoj Beh y uejioj CeBepHoj h Cpca,HdOj ManeiiOHHJH. Ty je 6h/io cennniTe ueHTpajme bojHHHKe H nOJIHTHHKe B/iaCTH y obhm KpajeBHMa. Kojikko
ce 3a BpeMe BH3aHTHJCKe B/iacrH nojiaraô Ha Ba>KHOCT
IlpH/iena bhah ce Haj6ojbe no TOMe ihto je y ft>eMy
yBeK 6opaBHO no Heno Ofl uapcKor poaa.
y ko/ihko ce ca#a yTBp^HTH Moace, Cp6H cy npBH
npBH nyT 3aB/ia;ia/iH npnjieuoM y cpncK0-BH3aHTHJckom paTy oa 1296-97. y TOMe je paTy Kpajb Mn.nythh on, TpKa 6ho y3eo uejiy CeBepHy Ap6aHHJy, rpa^
Upaq, CKoncKy o6;iacT, OBne riojbe, 3-aeTOBo h flnjaHau, ae6apci<y, KHneBCKy h nope^Ky o6;iacT. H3rneâ aa je Kpajb MnjiyTHH nocrce ocBojetba IlpHJiena
noneo y H>eroBOJ okojihhh HacejbaBaTH Cp6e PauiaHe,
jep ce y aouhhjhm noBejbaMa cnoMHtbe ce/10 Byqje
ihto ra je Hace^HO cbcth Kpajb". Hcto TaKO 3Ha ce
aa je Kpajb Mn;iyTHH nomoiviarao MaHacTHp TpecKaHe npHnaae
ra
Bau.
Ka.ua je FIpH;ien
noHOBO nomao no^
B/iacr bh-
3aHTHJCKy He 3Ha ce TaqHO. T. CTOjaH HoBaKOBHh mhgjih aa je to 6h;io roAHHe 129S, Kaâ ce Mn;iyTHH
noMHpno c rpuHMa, h Kaâ ce okchho Chmohhaom.
A;ih h nocjie Tora nocroja;ia je y IlpHJieny jaKa cpnCKa napTHj'a, Koja je onp)KaBa;ia Be3e c KpajbeM Mn;iythhom h CTeBaHOM fleqaHCKHM. 3a H>HxoBe BJiaê
FIpHên je 6ho cKopo ca cbhx crpaHa OKpyateH TepHTopHJOM cpncKHx B/iaAaaaua. Kpajb CTeBaH JJeqaHCKH
je join BHiue ctcchho Taj Kpyr, ocbojhbuih Beêc h
FIpoceK, h nokyuiaBuiH aa ocbojh h OxpHA, y HeMy
HHj'e ycneo.
flpHên je aeqbHHHTHBHO jiowao y cpncKy Bjiacr
y noneTKy ZlyinaHOBe Bâê, h to H3Meijy 1331 h 1334
roflHHe. ETHorpa4)CKe npn;iHKe Koje cy y caMOM FlpH;ieny h y HberoBoj oko^hhh B-naiia/ie npHJiHMHO cy no3HaTe. BehHHy BapoujKor craHOBHHinTBa caHHtoaBa/iH
cy TpuH, aok cy BehHHy ceocKor cTaHOBHHUJTBa canH-
oftiin/i.nrt
rani\c|i,unriJA
fbaBa^H Cp6n. B.iacn, kojhx je y to BpeMe 6hjio cnopo

no CBHMa cpncKHM 3eM/baMa, y oko/ihhh flpH/iena ce
He noMHfoy. y noweTKy HymaHOBe B/iacrH, y oko/ihhh
flpH/iena cnoMmby ce MHora nycra ce/iHHJTa. HeKO.iHKO roAHHa AOUHMJe BehHHa thx ce/imuTa cnoMmby
ce Beh Kao ce/ia. 3HanH Aa cy 6n/ia Hace/beHa. Flo oBOMe
H3MeAa Aa je noc.ie AO/iacKa noA cpncKy B/iacr HacrynH/io hobo HaceâBafee npn/iencKe OKO/iHHe. KapaKTepHCTHnaH je (J)aKaT 3a TaAainrbH HaMHH ynpaBe
to ihto ce jacHO bhah Aa cy rpwKOJ B/iacre/iH noA
cpncKOM B.iaÔM 6n/ia npH3HaTa npaBa Ha OHa HMatba
Koja je OHa AOTaaa HMa/ia. y noBe/baMa y Kojwvia ce
cnoMHH>y concTBeHHUH HMaiba, HaBeAeno je oca\ueceT
jihhhhx HMeHa. Oa thx ocaMAeceT HMeHa neaeceT h
neTHpH cy mhcto rpqKa, aok je mhcthx rpncKHx 6h/io
CBera AeBCTHaecr. 3HanH Aa cy B/iacre/ia 6n/ia Behnhom rpMKe HapojHocTH. Kpa/b HymaH je KynoBao
HMaiba oa nojeAHHHX B.iacTe/iHHa h noK/ian>ao hx MaHacTHpy TpecKaBuy.
Mhm je ocbojho npH.ien, Ryuian je HaJBehy na>KH.y oopaTHO ManacTHpy TpecKaBuy HapoBao My je
MHora ce/ia, upKBe h Memxe y flo-iory, flopeMy,
KnMeBy, 5a6yHH, no rie/iaroHHJH, HapoMHTO oko 5hTOâ h JlepHHa. riopcA Tora Aao My je TpehHHy npnxoAa oa Tpra npH/iencKora, h ao3bo/iho My je Aa
CBaKe roAHHe o MHTpoBy AaHy ap>kh nanaljyp.
KanaB je flpH/ien y to BpeMe H3r,ieAao, He 3na
ce TaMHO. 3na ce caMO na je HMao yTBplêibe, Ky/iy
npn/iencKy". y ibCMy caMOM 6h/io je Taâ ujecT upKaBa. BaBehH ce roAHHe 1348 y Ilpn.ieny, H3Aao je
HymaH
xpncoBy.-by he/iHJH Cb. CaBe, y kojoj FlpH/ien

Ha3HBa Be/inKOC/iaBHH rpaA npH/ieir. Ko/iHKy je Ba>K>khoct y to BpeMe HMao ripn/icn Hlj6oJb ce bhah no
TOMe ujto ra je Hyujan inadpao Kao jeAHy oa cbojhx
pe3HAenuHja. Hero TaKo y tbeny je GopaBHO h uapeB
jeAHHau ypouj. Kao HaJBa>KHHJeM MecTy y cbojhm hobhm 06/iacrHMa, Hyinan je y npn.ieriy nocraBHO 3a
ynpaBHTe/ba CpeAtbC MaKCAnnnje jeABOr oa najeno-
C06HHJHX CBOJHX MHMOBHHKa, ByKaiHHUa MpibaBMCBHha.

Kao Ba>KHO Mecro ByKainnn je Aounnje flpH/ien ywn-
208
HOBA CPBHJA
hho npecroHHuoM cBora KpajbeBCTBa. Oh je 6ho npecroHHua MapKa KpajbeBHha, kojh ra je, KaKO H3ivie;ia,
B;iauihy ocrao je
joiii BHiue yTBpAHO. flo;* cpncKOM
npeKO iue3AeceT ro/iHHa, CBe 0 cmpth Mapna KpajbeBHha (13^5, ron.).
HaHauitbH npHJien ce aejiH Ha xpHuihaHCKy h
Typcny Ma^y. XpHiuhaHCKe Ma;ie aejie ce npeMa napoxHJaMa h 30By ce HMeHHMa ohhx nonoBa kojh Te na~
poxHJe nocjiyacyjy. TaKO HMaMO flon HnKOJiOBy MaJiy,
non-Tbop^HJeBy MaJiy h XauH-flon HKOHOMOBy Ma;iy.
TypcKe cy Majie OBe Ak MenHT, TpH3;ia, Ta6aHa h
ToKaT Ma;ia. XpnujhaHH ce 6aBe 3aHaTHMa, TproBHhom h 6aujTOBaHJiyKOM. HapOHHTO je pa3BHJeH KOBaHKH H KaJiajUHJCKH 3aHaT. HdHXOBH Cy npOH3BOAH nyBeHe npHJiencKe cennpe h Tecne, Koje ce H3B03e y Beêc, CKonjbe h fIpH3peH. H3pa^yjy h 6aKapHe cyae,
Koje H3B03e y KnqeBO h KpymeBo. KoBaMH cy HCKJbyhhbo xpHiuhaHH. Meijy xpHuihaHHMa orpOMHy BehHHy
MHHe Cp6H. Hivia Heurro Majio Tpna h UnHuapa, kojh
ce 6aBe TproBHHOM h ceocKHM Tep3HJiyKOM. MatbH aeo
cpncKor craHOBHHUJTBa 6aBH ce 3eMJbopa,zufeOM h 6auiTOBaH^yKOM. HaJBHUje npoH3Boae MaK h ayBaH. ripe
je 6h;io MHoro BHHorpaaa, ajiu hm ce BHuie peHTHpa;io aa caae ayBaH h a(})HJOH, h BHHorpaite cy hckopeHH^H. Hay MHoro h y nena;i6y. HapoHHTO cy MHoro
hujjih y AiviepHKy h ByrapCKy.
TypuH cy peHTHepn, HHTJiyK-caxHdnje, a jeâH
êo 6aBH ce 3aHaTHMa. BpJio bcjihkh aeo, 3a TypcKor
BpeMeHa, >KHBeo je on c;iy>K6a. Bh/ih cy nojbaun, Ka*
Ba3H koa 6oraTHx xpniuhaHa, koa ujKOJia h MaHaCTHpa, a mho cy 6h;ih >KaHAapH h nacBaHunje. Tobhhom ce 6aBe CBera ft>HX Tpojnua. HH*iviyK-caxH6HJe
HMajy HapoMHTe jiyhane y KOJHMa npoaajy caMO CBoje
)khto. CKopo cbh caae AyBaH h caMH ra ceKy h npoaajy. Be/iHKa Maca hx >khbh BehHHOM 6e3 nocjia. Flo
Ba3,n:aH ceae y Ka(j)aHH, nnjy Ka(J)y, nyme ayBaH h
pa3roBapajy. floMahn hm je je3HK TypCKH, a;iH 3Hajy
h cpncKH.
y FIpHJieny HMa BeoMa 6oraTHx Jby^H, h xpniuhaHa u TypaKa. HMa xpniuhaHa kojh cy MjuiHOHepH.
:
3AnAHA MAKEflOHHJA
209
cy ce HajBHiue TproBHHOM h /iaBatt>eM

HOBua Ha npnnjion.
ripHên ce ae/iu Ha aeo y KOMe ce Tpryje h H3patjyje, h neo y KOMe cy caMo Kyhe 3a CTaHOBan>e.
TlpBH jxqo je y3 peKy h 30Be ce wapuiHia, a ^pyrH
neo je Ha nepH(})epHJn, h 30Be ce Ma/ia. no Ma.iaMa
cy Kyhe MaxoM npn3CMHe, hhckc h hepa.MHÔM noKpnBeHe. rio Ma/iaMa HeMa ayhaHa.
y npn/ieny je upKBa Cb. UnMHTpnja, on/iHKyje
ce /ienHM bh33hthjckhm cth/iom, c bhcokhm Ky6eTHMa
h mhothm ycKHM h /ienHM npo3opHMa y IbHMa.
ripn/ien je Ha aaHaunbeM no/iowajy noiiHrHyT y
06oraTH/iH
TypcKO Bpe.Me. CrapH npn.ien h.ih MapKOBa Ila.iaHKa

6ho je 3a 20 MHHyTa Aa;be Ha ceBepo-3anaiiy, me
je cana ce.no Bapoiu, HenocpenHO no;* MapKOBHM KyziaMa. Flo OBOMe H3r/iejia jja je crapn npw/ien HMao
THn noarpalja, noiHTO je /iewao HenocpejHO noa
npHêncKHM rpaôM. kbr/ieaa rb ce npect:baBaH>e H3
BapoiiiH y iianaunbH npn.ien Bp.io nocreneHo BpuJH.io.
H\ia aocTa riopo.-inua Koje naMre Ka.i cy ce npece/iH/ie. MipKOBa na.iaHKa caâ ce 30Be MapKOB Fpa^.
CiaHOBHHUH MapKOBa Tpaiia npH4ajy na ce AanaiuibH
npn.ien nce/ino npe cto ,io cto neAeeer roûHa Bh/io
je Jbynu kojh cy naMTH/iw Kajia cy Ha Mecry ânaujH>er npH.iena 6n.ie caNie h>hbc h .iHBaae OpiOBawKa
Pcna 6n/ia je ,iy6oKa, h HHj'e 6n/ia 3acyTa necKOM h
Lu.i.ynKOM nao caja. Kyhe BehHHe ooraiania cy Ha
OpaoBaMKe Peice.
CTaHOBHHUH MapKOBa Fpaaa 6aBe ce 3eM^>opaafbOM h cTowapcTBOM, a nopcj Tora cBaKH 04 h.hx
HMa y npn/ieny h cboj /whan. MuTepecanTHO je ype^LMt.e MapKOBa
rpaaa. He/in ce na bhluc Maxa/ia.
CBaKa Maxa/ia HMa CBOjy c/iaBy, h cijaKa ahwc upKBHuy cbomc CBCTHTc.'by. 3uor Tora y tomc maaom
Merry HMa bhuic upKBHua h ocrraTaKa oa apKBeHHl
CTapHiia. y ToMe HMa h3bcchc c/ih ihocth H3Mel)y npnziena H ripiupena. To cy BapoiDH y KOJHMa ce ojip>Ka/io iiajBHirie ocTaiaKa on cpciibeBeKOunor cpncKor
)KHBoia. CTaHOBHHUH MapKOBa rpa/ia npnnajy ;u je
o6a/in
HOBA CPLHJA
210
HOBA CPBHJA
y H>eMy HeKan 6hjio 70 uito MatbHx, iiito BehHX upKaBa. Zip. JoBaH X. BacnjbeBnh TBpnn na y MapKOBy fpany HeMa jôcejbeHHKa, Beh caMO crapHHaua,
h A2L ce Bapom y obhm KpajeBHMa 30Be yBeK HajcrapHJa rpaiicKa Ma;ia.
36or 3rojiHor nojiowaja FIpHJien je h y cpentbeM
Beny 6ho Ba>naH Tpr, a Kpo3 CBe TypcKO BpeMe y H>eMy
ce iip>Kao jenaH on HaJBa>KHHJHX Bainapa Ha ue/ioM
Ba^naHCKOM no/iyocrpBy, Ha kojh ce ca cbhx CTpaHa
H can je ripn/ien musa TproBam<a Bapom,

h H>eroBH xpHiuhaHCKH CTaHOBHHUH ca BeêmaHHMa h
LLlTHn^>aHMMa cnanajy y Hajnpe^y3HMJbHBnje TproBue
AOJia3H/io.
obhx KpajeBa. Kao na je on cbhx bpcth TproBHHe HajBa>KHHJa TproBHHa ca ctokom, Koje y okojihhh nocra
HMa 36or ;io6pnx nauia no njiaHHHaMa, Hapo^HTO no
JanynHUH, JUyTHUH h Ba6yHH, rê ce rajn MHora
KpynHa h CHTHa CTOKa. flajbe ce 3naTHHj'e Tpryje c nyBaHOM, >khtom, onHj'yMOM h npn;iencKOM nanpHKOM, Koja
je noc/ie MemeHCKe Hajno3HaTHJa y MaKenoHHJH. y
rpa^y ce on nêTBapCKor MepMepa H3patjyjy Ha,arpo6HH
cnoMeHHUH, CTeneHHue, KopHTa h .ap.
y Upuneny *UMd 22.230 craHOBHKKa, ca npeTe>Khom cnoBeHCKOM BehHHOM h 3HaTHHM 6pojeM Typana.
M3Ha;iMapK0Ba Tpana, Ha jeziHOJ rpaHHTHOJ creHH,
jHH)Ky ce npeocTaTUH on rpana KpajbeBHha Mapna. Ta
CTeHa HMa o6/ihk rpoMane ca 6e36poj CTy6oBa h 3y6aiia, ca Bp/io crpMHM dpaHaMa Koje Mecro npe.na3e
y BepTHKa^He onceKe. rpoMana Ha kojoj je 6ho ca3HAaH cpenHDeBeKOBHH MapKOB rpaji, Kao h MHore rpoMa/ie y 6/ih3hhh, HMajy TaKO onupe Kom-ype na MHHe,
HapoMHTO no HofcH, cTpaxoBHT yTHcaK. 3nAHHe HHcy caqysaHe y uenHHH. OHe cy caqyBaHe y hcko^hko peaoBa, kojh o6nâ3e oko deHOBHTe rpOMane. riopen
Tora onyBaHe cy h HeKOJiHKe xy;ie. Thm ciapHM 3hahHaMa h ny/iaMa join Bnuie je nojaqaH OHaj nynHOBaTH
h BejiHHaHCTBeHH o6/ihk rpana. CBe Te 3HAHHe cy nonyua/ie, nocpHyne h opoHyne, TaKO na he ce CBe to
6p30 HCKBapHTH aKo ce ko He nocTapa na to nonpaBH
h yTBpflH. y rpaACKHM 3HAHHaMa pyCKH apxHMaHnpHT
\Kf.aOHHJA
JAU.X
AHTOHHje naâ3Ho je ue/ie uperpiuTH jeMMa h apyror

>KHTa. Tpaa je naiHtbeH oj unne h neceqeifor Ka.Mena.
Ujh
fyeHa
rpaao.M je
y BH3aHTHJCKOM
MapxoBa upKBa, Ma/ieHa h rpaCTMJiy. HcnpeA upKBe je TpeM,
Hac.ioibCH yciiiTO Ha creny, a HeiuTo Ha MpaMopHe CTy6oBe. V z\\y TpeMa cawyBano je 6m/io 18b5
HeiuTo >KnBonHca y tom >KHBonHcy caqyBaHa je c.iHKa
kojh
je
Kpa/beB.iha MapKa. PycKH apxHManiipHT Ahtohhjc Ty

c.iHKy onwcyie oBaKo: C aecne (jy>KHe) cTpane Hac/iHKan je MOBeK on TpHiieceT rojnua y BH3aHTHjCKOM uapckom oê/iy c KpyHOM Ha.iHK Ha apxnjepej Ky MHTpy h
c KpyroM oko rviaBe Kao luto ce Mehe CBeun.via. Y nechoj My je pyuH ayrawaK Kpcr c Be npeâre. C o6e
crpaHe r.i;iBc HMa pa3roBeiaH Hamnc y TpH peâ: *Bl>

X(pncT)a 5(or)a Fl.penL Kpa/i MapKO*.
MaiiacTHp TpecnaBau ca3HjaH je hcto TaKO y
CTeHH. 36or Tora hjto My je 3eM. bHOJTe ctpmchhto, itanacTHp je cacTaB-'ben H3 neKo/iHKO Tcpaca XpaM je
CTapHHCKOT CTH.ia, Ca UlHpOKHM Ky6cTOM y CpCAHHH.
YnyTpa je >KHBonHcaH. W y ibeMy je canyBana c/iHKa
T
Kpa;ba
MapKa
h uapa
C-Râna
JlyiuaHa,
caMO^puiua
CBHX CpUCKHX H flOMOpCKHX 3CMa.'ba.
3.
Oxp
no^HrnyT na ceBcpnoj o6a.iH je3epa.

Oh je eKOHOMCKH ucHTap oxptucKe KOTJlHHe, /leopue,
UpHMKO.ia h To/ior Bp.ia. Ochm Tora na H.cra je y
MHoroMe ckohomckh ynyhen H JU'6ap. Oh je nopeji Bh-<om nyiy,
TOâr.iaBna Fupoiu Ha apGanaLUKOOxpHii
je
cTapoj Via Egnatia re je c tbHue yneico

ih h
c.iGjcmhckh xpaj. Objc je na crapoj Via Egnatia Gn/ia
Bapoiu Lichnidus, a noGie phmckot upeMuia ce
bho Oxpiu, kujh cy oam Bn31RTMJe apMUJlll
-i.
kojh
rapw, KpaTKO npeMe Hopnami, h Hi
cv ra OCBOJMJIH y nnqcTKy B/ia.ie CreBaHa HyiuaHa oko
;
1332-1334 roa. 3a ilytuaHOBO

AOM ctBacTOKparop BpaHKO
BpaHKOBiiha. llo CMprn uapa
au Oxpnoiau H
ypoma Oxpiu je 6hu y
M la/u-Honnh.
212
HOBA CPBHJA
^pâBH KpajbCBHba MapKa, h H>HMe
je
ynpaBâo wy-
naH Tpona. KpajeM 14 BeKa saB/iaaauje OxpHAOiviTypuH.

Hrpao je Ba>KHy yîory y upkbchom WHBOTy 6ajiKaHCKHx OioBeHa. 1018 ro,n,. noziHwe y OxpHiiy caMOcra/iHy apxHenncKonnjy rpMKH uap Bacn.nnje II non,
Kojy cy CBe jxo ocHHBatba caMocrajiHe cpncKe upKBe
cnaâ^H h Kocobo, BeorpaA h PaiiJKa. KpajeM 14 BeKa
h noÔBHHOM 15 6mia je nozi oxphackom h pyiviyHCKa
upKBa, a o^n: nponacTH nehKe naTpHJapniHJe (1459) na
Ao o6HaB^>aH5a H>eHor 1557, h enncKonnje cpncKHx 3eMajba. Oxpn^cKa apxnenncKonnja je yKWHyTa 16 jaHyapa 1707 toji., HacKopo noc/ie yHwuTetba nthKe
naipHJapiuHJe, h o6e cy nomaê noA rpHKy uapnrpaACKy naTpnjapiiJHJy.
TjiaBHe BapouiKe Kyfce h yjiHue cy nopeâHe Ha
CTpaHaMa KpemtaMKe ropnue ynKajbe, noneBiuH on
caivie je3epCKe o6a;ie na no oxpnacKor rpaaa. Kyfce cy
Tano je^Ha H3Haa Apyre H3aHe na CBaKa HMa c npo3opa cno6o.naH H3nieA Ha je3epo. TaKBH cy actcobh
OxpHâ: Bapouj, MapujHJa, roptt>a B/iaujKa Maxaâ h
MecoKpacro. Ha oboj CTpaHH je oco6hto Jiena upKBa
Cb. KnuMema (oxpH^CKa MHTpono;iHJa), Kojy je y HajHOBHJe BpeMe npoynno KoHiiaKOB. OBê cy h pa3BajiHHe on ABopaua ycnaflHH-GeroBHX. y paBHH cy ziejiobh Oxpnaa: Bocna, y kojoj cy Typun, KoMHUJTe, cpnckh Kpaj, 3aTHMCapaj-Maxaâ h .floHba BâuiKa Maxa/ia.
OxpuA je no nojioatajy je3epCKa Bapoui h pn6ojiob je Kpo3 CBa BpeivieHa, Kao h AaHac, 6no cra;iHO 3aHHMaHaesHaTHorAeâ cTaHOBHHUJTBa. PH6ao/iOxpH;ia",
XBajbeHa y HapoAHHM necMaivia, no3naTa je Kao HajyKycHHJa y BehcM acny Ba;iKaHCKor FIo^yocTpBa. rioMHn>e je jouj h CTpa6oH. y Be3H cy ca 3aK/iott>eHHM
noAo>KajeM h je3epcKOM k;ihmom jaKO pa3BnjeHO noDpiapcTBO h BohapcTBO oko Oxpn#a y Jlc6puH, O KOJHMa je h paHHje 6h;io roBopa. OxpHA je Tano 6;iare
K^HMe na MO>Ke 6hth k/ihmcko jickobhto MecTO.
y TypcKO BpeMe pa3BH.no ce y Oxpnny 3aHaTCTBO,
Koje je none/io onaaaTH on KaKO cy carpal)eHe 6anKaHCKe >Keê3HHue Oco6hto je pa3BnjeH hypnujcKH
3aHaT. y OxpH^y cy npaB/beHa jaKO ueibeHa ij[y6eTa,
:-saiiaaha
makkaohh.ia
AH6aAeTa hta. CnpoB hypMHJCKH ecnan Ha6aB/ba;iH cy HapoMHTO hypqnjcKH TproBUH y /Ia'nunry,
hypêTa,
noMaBHTO
Ha /lajnuHUJKHM BaiuapH.via (Leipzigermesse).
Joiu je K. TpynMeBHh 3anaMTHo KaAa ce y OxpHAy oko

50 Kyha 6aBH/ie hyp4HJCKHM 3aHaTOM AaK.ie joiu oko
no/ioBHHe 19 BeKa. CBaKa hypqnjcKa paAfoa 3aHn\ia.ia
50paAHHKa, AaK-ne y OxpHAy je Gn.io 2500 300Q
je 40
pa^HHKa HypMHJCKHX. hbHXOBa je naAHHua 6njia 2025

Ochm Tora cy MHore >KeHe koa Kyha uiH/ie h
rponr.
MOMe 3a Tpw ;iema Meceua jxa 3apaAe 300 AHHapa.
TiypMHJcKH ecnan je pa3HOiueH no ue/iOM BaAKaHCKOM
Ho.iyocrpBy, a HapoMHTO je MHoro npoAaBano Ha BaiuapHMa y Flpn/ieny h Cepe3y. 3HaTaH je Aeo Bapoiun >khBeo oa Tep3njcKor 3aHaTa, h OxpHA ce TaKMHMHO ca
KocTypoM y H3par}HBatby Haj(})HHHJer 6a/iKancKor OAe/ia,
.
Koje
je
Ha Aa/itKO pa3HoiueHO h npoAaBaHO.
Caâ ce BHAe caMO TparoBH oa crapnx 3aHaTa h

TproBHHe oxpHACKe. OxpHA je ociao norviaBHTo uenTap h r.iaBHH rpaA o6;iacTH Koje cy na ibera ynyneHe,
3aTHM Bapoiu pH6apCTBa, noBpiapcTBa h BohapcTBa.
CKopo y hcto BpeMe ca onajiaibeM 3aHaTa, y Oxpnjy
je 6h/io CBe HecHrypHHJe yc.ieA AOce;baBaiba Ap6aHaca.
Typ6eT^yK je y3HMao CBe Belie pa3Mepe; Oxpurjann ce
paAH 3apa le pa3H/ia3e no CBponcKOj TypcKoj M ceBCpHHM 6a^KaHCKHM 3CM.'baMa, HapoMHTO no Cp6njn H
JjyrapcKOJ, h He peTKO TaMO H ocTajy."
O 6pojy craHOBHHUJTBa y 19 BeKy HMaMO OBe noAaTKe Dr. Muller je 1838 roA. 3a6e/ie>KHO Aa y OxpH<pah Aa je CKopo
Ay HMa caMO 750 Kyfya, a A
X. F
cianoBHHKa
6h/io
9
000
hcto
BpeMe
OxpHAy
y
y
Tozer ce o6aBCCTHO Aa je 3a BpeMe iberoBor nyTOBan>a H3ifeijy IttbO h 1870 toa- 6h/io y OxpHAy 15 000
CTanoBHHKa, no.ia xpHwhana no/ia TypaKa, h no
cy BehHHOM Ap6anacH. Y nocieA>boj AeceTnnn 19
BeKa Gh/io je y OxpHAy no Poctkobckom
1.875 flj
Mehy KOJHMa anco/iyTHy Behmiy iHHe GiOBeim.
3aTHM MyxnMCA^HCKe fere, 3950, H ApouyHN,
ncror
Ayuja; no KnqcBy, mhjh cy iio.uhh CKopo
BpeMCHa, HMa y OxpHAy 14 860 Ayiua, Me^y KOJHMa
Byrapa 8.000, TypaKa 5.000, ApHayTa 800, ApoMvua
:
HOBA CPBHJA
214
UbhjhH je paqyHao aa y Oxpnuy

HMa 12 14.000 ayiiia h â HecyMn>HBO BehHHa npHnaâ MaKeÔHCKHM C/iOBeHHMa. Flo H>eroBHM o6aBeuiTefeHMa, Me^y oBHMa BehHHy MHHe AOcejbeHHUH H3 okojihhx ce;ia, HapoqHTo H3 JlpHMKOJia h Jle6pue; y MaH>eM cy 6pojy dape oxpH^CKe nopoawue. Hcth je
Gaynaj h ca MyxaMCuamjHivia, Meijy KOJHMa hobhjh ap6aHaiuKH AOcejbeHHUH qHHe BehnHy; ohh ce y Oxpwuy
Hanio TypuH3Hpajy. BajraHU je yTBp^HO &a cy 150
Kyha oxphackhx ApoMyHa #ocejbeHe norviaBHTO H3
MycKonoJba, Hhkojihuc, JlyHre, Tpa6oBa koa Jlynre h
JlHHOTona. Hivia hckojihko Kyha h npaBHX TpKa. JJaHac
y Oxpnay HMa 11.038 ayiua.
Hh y je^HOJ je3epcKoj BapoiiiH MaKeaoHHJe HHcy
TaKO pa3BHJeHe meTH>e h H3/ieTH Ha qaMUHMa Kao y
OxpHAy. Ha MyBeHHM bcahkhm qaMUHMa ca honiKaMa
npaBe OxpHâHH nemhe H3Jiirre ro OyAeHHMHiHTa,,
onncaHHX jaKHx H3B0pa Ha hctohhoj crpaHH je3epa,
3aTHM ro TopHue h ro IlajbaHa. Behe H3;ieTe npaBe
caMO o npa3HHUHMa. y omh cb. HayMa KpeHe ce H3
Oxpnaa no npaBH;iy 50 60 qaMaua ca oxphackhm nopoHu.aMa, npeMa MaHacmpy cb. HayMa, h, yTpKyjyhH
ce. npncnejy y MaHacTHp, rae hx noqeKajy 3BOH>ett>eM.
C/iHHHe H3êie npaBe h y KajwuiKH MaHacTHp.
460, U,HraHa
600.
3HaTaH rqo oxpHACKor craHOBHHUiTBa >khbh or

pH6oÔBa. Ph6o/iob je Hapo^HTO pa3BHJeH Ha OxpHAckom h npecnaHCKOM Je3epy. MHoro6poJHa ceâ Koja
ce Haâ3e Ha o6a;iaMa thx .HBajy je3epa, Kao h 3HaTaH aeo BapouiKor CTaHOBHHiUTBa y Oxpn^y, OpyrH
h noiirpauy, >KHBe HCKjbyMHBO or pH6o;iOBa. Ta cy
je3epa 6oraTa h y pa3HHM BpcTaMa pH6a h y 3HaTHOj
HdHXOboj ko^hmhhh. Hapoa pa3/iHKyje y rviaBHOM rbz
BpcTe pn6a, h to OHe Koje HeMajy KpjbyuiTH (jbycKe)
h OHe MHje je tcko noKpHBeHO jbycKaMa. npBe 30By
a jipyre ^hb^hm" pn6aMa Metjy mhcthm
u mhcthm",
pn6aMa HaJBa>KHHJa je nacrpBa a a 3aTHM 6ejbBHUa".
npeMa BpeMeHy y KOMe ce ;iobh, h npeMa Mecry Ha
KOMe ce ;iobh, nadpBa je ao6H;ia pa3Ha HMeHa, Kao:
,
3AnA^HA MAKEAOHHJA
/ieTHHua,
3HMKa,
KpecHHua, ryiuaBKa,
215
Ma-
aa/ijanKa,
jojua (on HMeHa Meceua Maja), h np. 06nMHa Te>KMHa nacTpMKe je ABe no tou OKe, bjih hx HMa on
10 h 15 OKa. IlacTpMKa Te tokhhc 30Be ce KpanoThhk" h B KpanoTmma a flacTpMK'a je HajyKycHiija pn6a
.
OxpHiicKor Jc3epa, MOKâ HajyKycHHJa Ha ue:ioM 6a;inaHCKOM no^yocrpBy. Hcto TaKO MacoBHTa je h jery^>a, Koja Mo>Ke 6HTHTeiiJKa on ibq na no neT OKa.
y paHHJa BpeMena OBa pn6a ce npoiiaBa/ia on -iBa no
;ieceT rpoiua Ha ony. Hajcnyruba je 6n;ia ;ieTHHua.
Mehy jHB:bHM u pH6aMa Haj3HaMeHHTnjH je Kpan"
(ujapaH), kojh MO>Ke 6hth Te>KaK on neT na no una*
AeceT OKa. HajcuTHnja h HaJMHoro6poJHnja pn6a OxpH^CKor Je3epa je n/iaujHua', Koja je yKyca c/iHMHa
cap^HnaMa. XBaiajy ce mh/ihohhm?, h CHpoTHiba hx
MHoro TpoiuH Kao CBaKOAHeBHy xpaHy y nocHe naHe,
Pnoapn HMajy MnoroCpoJHe h pa3H0BpcHe cnpaBe
3a xBaTaihe pn6e. HMa hx CBera oko TpmiaecT. Haju
Ba>KHHJe cy obc B/iaK je orpoMHa Mpe>KHna ca nsa
KpH/ia, ziyra on 30 no 40MeTapa, a innpoKa 8 no 10
Meiapa. Onepncaibe c obom Mpe>KOM, HapoMHTO c TaKO3BaHHM neiHTaHCKHM BâKOM, BeOMa je TeiHKO h komn^HKOBaHO h H3HCKyje MHoro nocia. Y3 Taj B.iaK nae
naJMaibc neT Jbyjn, on kojhx CBaKH y o^peêHo Bpevie
BpiuH CBOjy (f)yHKUHJy. npeMa kojoj CBaKH on thx Jbynu
HMa h cboj Ha3HB. OBa ce cnpaBa ynoTpcCâea c
Ha nyMHHH J03epCKOJ, HapOMHTO Ha OHHM BHp ItTHMa u
y KOJH.va h oko kojhx HMa Haj/ieniue pn6e, g6hmho
êTHHue. C/iHMaH je OBOMe Mer\aaHCKH B/iaK u kojh je
CKopo hctc KOHCTpyKiuije, caMO ce oh noc/ie ;iOBa
Mopa H3B;ia iHTH na o6aBy na 6n ce H3 Jbera y/ioB;beHa pn6a Hcrpec.ia. [IeurrancKHM ce B/iaKOM Baje
caMO /ieTunue, a MenaaHCKHM inapaHH, k.ichobh, rpyHUH
h ckoGvcth. Hpyre BpcTe Mpewa cy no3HaTe non
hom BnaMKa'' h /ia Je\ K/byq" je Ma/ia Mpc>KHua
Koja ce 6aua y npocTope kojh cy 3arpafyt.HH, h Koja
ce, nan ytyy y iby pn6e, JCAHHM >'>kltom CMpcKa h 3aTBopn Kao upt'ha. Koja ce onaa h3hoch y wyn. Mpe>kom" ce najHBajy caMO one Mpewe Koje cy nanpaB*>eHe on TaHKor n jaKor ânenor KOHua h.ih on cbm-ic
i
r.
HOBA CPBHJA
216
JXyra je 30 ao 40 MeTapa, a uiHpoKa jeâH MeTap. OHa

ce pa3anHHbe no HohH, a Byqe TeK cyTpa Ran y jyTpy.
OBHMa cJiHHHe cy cnpaBe: Mpejua a M rpyHeiHHHK" h
nocjieAFbe ABe cy on Mpe>KHHe;
caqMa", h henqe".
caqMa" HMa H3r.ien noKJiomja kojh, Kan ce 6auH, paCTBapa ce y Ko;iyT kojh Kan na.ntHe Ha aho je3epa noKJionn pn6y h nocne ce HapoqHTHM y>KeTOM cMpcKa,
3aTBopn; henqe" HMa H3rjiea (J)eca h hyâBa h oho
ce cnyuiTa no Ha .ziho je3epa. Yjihuom hjih jaAHUOM"
XBaTajy ce CHTHe pn6e h jeryjba. OcTKMa, Koje ce npnqBpde Ha jxpiKajbe jiyro 8 no 10 MeTapa, jiOBe ce
pn6e h jeryjbe no JIpHMy oko CTpyre, HapoMHTo ce
jiOBe KpanoBH (uiapaHH) Kan ce y TpCKaMa MpencoM
3aTBope. Ha peKaMa MHoro ce pn6e JiOBe KOUHMa (npBH
,
naôK jeAHHHe KOTeu) h BpmaMa.

3a xBaTan>e pn6e h 3a je3epcKe Ba;iOBe yaeineHH
cy HapoqHTH MyHOBH. Th qyHOBH cy oco6HTa H3iviena.
Hajwqe Ha AyraqaK caH^yK kojh je 03ro OTBopeH. CacraBJbeH je, y ochobh, on ABa orpoMHa qaMOBa fle6;ia
Koja cy ca erpaHe HCKonaHa h KJiHHUHMa npHKOBaHa.
Ha tbeMy cy c yHyTapn>e crpane npHKOBaHe HapoHHTe
AacKe Koje qyBajy MyH on Ta;iaca. HanpaBJbeHH cy TaKO
na Mory H3ap)KaTH HaJBehe Taâce. Ohh ce Mory KpeTaTH caMO y Hanpea 36or Tora ce npe;ubH #eo, npeAHHua", napOMHTHM TepeTHMa ocnrypaBa. MyH noKpehy
BecâqH, kojh Becjiajy caMO c aecHe CTpaHe, a ibHM
ynpaBJba npHMaq" hjih KpMaHOUi. Ako cy B03aqH"
(Bec/iaqn) HceHCKe, OHâ, no hckom odnqajy, OHe Becjiajy caMO c JieBe CTpaHe. HapoHHTe cy Beoiaqnue
>KeHe h êBOJKe H3!ce;ia Tpnejaua h neimafla. TpnejqaHKe cy no3HaTe Kao jane h Kao BeuiTnje BecjiaMHue.
OHe KaA Becnajy peÔBHO neBajy. Haj6oJbH h HaJBeuiTHJH pn6apH cy cejbaun H3 Ta jxBa ceâ MyHOBHMa
ce c^y>Ke 3a xBaiaite pnde h 3a npeHoc po6e h jbyw
H3Mel)y nojeaHHHX MecTa Koja ce Ha/ia3e Ha o6a/iaMa
je3epa. HapoMHTo ce qyHOBHMa BpuiH cao6pahaj Kan
cy na3apHH #aHH y Oxpn/iy, Crpyrn h noarpauy.
riopen obhx HMajy 6oraTHJH Jby^H HaponHTHX qyHOBa
h npoBofyette no je3epy. HMa HapoqHTHx
3a
qynoBa ca KHoaniMa (houiK ) h/ih qapaauHMa kojh
memy
tt
lit
3A11AZIHA MAKEZIOHHJA
cy npecTpTM HrnvreTHMa, a od/ioaceHH nepHHuaMa

(jacTyuHMa), Ha Koje iueTa iH ;ierHy, nyiue, rvieaajy, no
Ma/io apeMajy h y>KHBajy.
y crapHJa BpeMeHa ph6o;iob je 6ho CKQpo crco6oaho 3aHHMatbe. CBaKH ko je XTeo /iobhtii n/iahao je
Ap>KaBH h/ih OHOMe ko je npe^craBâo h y3ypriHpao
TypcKy B/iacr y Oxpnay H3BecHy cyMy HOBaua. y noc/ieaibe BpeMe je yBezieH o6nMaj na /ip>KaBa Aaje noa
3anyn Ha rojjHHy iUHa h.ih abz nojeiiHHHM 3aKynu.HMa.
Th 3aKynu,H no;ie/ie ucrco je3epo Ha noje^HHe ae/ioBe
kojh ce 30By ^cheâ^", na hx aajy 3a H3BecHe cyivje
HOBaua noje^HHHM jioBUHMa, kojh OHâ HMajy npaBa
na ziOBe ro^HHy aana, a^H caMO y TaMHO yTBpfyeHHM
rpaHHixaMa cBora chejba"
Ph6oôb je jeaHa BeoMa Ba>KHa npHBpe^Ha rpaHa
Ha CBHMa je3epH\ia. Oh je KopHcraH, npBO, hjto âje
jeBTHHy h 3ApaBy xpaHy oko.ihom craHOBHwiiTBy; iipyro,
hjto H3B030M pn6e craHOBHHiHTBO 3HaTHO npHRpetjyje,
h Tpehe, hjto je h y BapouiHMa OxpMAy, Cipy3H h
riojupauy pa3B.ijeHa HapoMHTa pn6apcKa unaycTpHJa.
3HaTaH #eo CTaHOBHHHJTBa 6aBH ce n.neieibeM Mpe>Ka,
rpaJ)eibcM qaMaua h neca/ia. h H3pa^0M ocra/inx pn6apcKHX cnpaBa. Ako ce ycne na ce yBeae pauHOHa/mo
pn6apcTBO, h aKO ce ycne na ce npepaijCHa p^6a c
HaujHx je3epa H3Hece na eBponcKe nnjaue, HMahe Be.IHKe KOpHCTH H Ap>KaBa H BpeflHO CTaHOBHHUJTBO OBHX
KpajeBa.
i
CTpyra.
y rviaBHOMe Ha MecTy rae UpHH

UpHM H3,ia3H H3 Oxpn/iCKor Je3epa on Tora H3/ia3a
cy dpy>KaHCKe Kyhe yAa/beHe ca.vio 300400 m. OHa
je npaBa jc3epcKa Bapouj, y Kojoj Behn rqo CTauOBHHUJTBa >KHBH OA pH6o/10Ba, HapOMHTO ojx -noBa Ha jery/by Oa.Max Hcnoj. Opyre, Rp\m je Hcnperpat)nBaH
êcaMa h/ih TajranHMa u pa3HOBpcHO H3BHJyrannM orpaAaMa on npyha. Kpo3 Koje BOAa npoTH ie, a y 3aBojUHMa ce 33Ap>KaBa h XBaTa crpyujKa HAH oxpnacKa
jery/ba, Kojy HapomiTO jy>KHH BeTpoBH HH3 UpHM Ha-
Cipyra
;ic>kh
218
HOBA CPEHJA
repyjy. CTpy)KaHH iwjy caMO
je3epcKy BOiiy m' florae

norviaBHTO or pn6e h ncmpha. OrpyuiKe >KeHe cexBaê
Kao Hajjieniue y 3anaztHOJ MaKeÔHHJH, nopeA CMH;beBckhx. CrpyacaHH Tpryjy ca Cpett>OM ApOaHHJOM, h y
CTpy3H ce npine BamapH y (})e6pyapy h cenTCM6py,
noMaBHTO 3a npoH3BOAe H3 cpeAtt>e Ap6aHHJe. y
Crpy3H HMa 4120 CTaHOBHHKa, Meijy KOJHMa no KtmeBy

h Poctkobckom npeBJialjyjy MaKeAOHCKH Oiobchh, a/iH
HMa h 3HaTHa ap6aHaiiiKa MatbHHa."
5.
KpynieBO.
ceBepo-3ana^H0M jieny 6HTOJbci<o-npHJiencKe

KOT^HHe, Ha naAHHH y bhchhh on 1170
1200 m., CMeuiTeHa je y n/iHTKOj japy3H KpyuieBCKe PeKe, noA 6pAOM
rpyMeH>eM CKOpo 600 m. HaA paBHH kot^hhc Be/iHKa
Bapoui KpyiueBO jeziHa oa HaJBHiunx BapouiH Ba/iKaHCKor FIonyocTpBa. y^Hue cy nocrpojeHe no dpMHM
CTpaHaivia 6piia h CBe cy crpMe h ycKe, BnjyraBe h
Ka;i,npMHcaHe 6;iOKOBHMa h aobo;mio Heo6pai]eHHM napMa^HMa or rpaHHTa. 3aTO cy MHcre, ajin je cao6pahaj
y tbHMa OTOKaH. Kyhe cy BeviHKe, ca3HâHe oa rpaHHTa h noKpHBeHe (J)h;ihtckhm njionaMa, MaxoM Ha ABa
cnpaTa, ca KaMeHHM ouauHMa, yroAHe h Aocra yKycHe
h CBe ca 6a;iKOHHMa; HeKoje cy cnojba He 6am jienHM

ujapawa H3Ma;iaHe. H Ha KyhaMa h Ha jbyAHMa ce bhah
Aa cy HMyhHH. Caâ je KpyuieBO norviaBHTO Bapoui
ryp6euHJa."
KpyiueBO je y 18 BeKy 6h;io MajiH midpnuK koj'h
cy Kynn/iH ApoMyHH npOTepaHH H3 MycKonojba n Tpamocth. Ohh cy My Aa.nH AaHaiHH>H THn pyMyHCKor Hacejba. JlouHHJe cy ce OBAe Aoce;baBa;iH ApoMyHH H3
Iljbace, MeuoBa, JlHHOTona h HnKOJinue, 3aTHM Cp6n H3
okojihhx 06/iacTH, Hajnocne h Ap6aHacH. Mehy Cp6HMa ce
pa3/iHKyjy ABe rpyne no roBopy h no oackv Mnjaun
H3 JU6pa h BpcjauH H3 okojihhc IlpHJiena, KnqeBa, 3athm H3 >Ke;ie3HHKa H Met)y Ap6aHacHMa HMa TocKa h
,Zln6pa;iHJa. Flo BajraHAy 6h;io je y KpyineBy 1889 roA15000 Ayuia, or kojhx BehHHy MHHe ApoMyHH. CaAa HMa
y KpyineBy 7941 CTanoBHHK.
:
.Xotobo cbh ApoMyHH cy 6h^h h/ih H^y y ryp6eT^yK no cboj EBponw, y noc.ienu>e BpeMe h y AmcpHKy, H M?XOM Cy TprOBUU H MexaHUHj'e. Y paHHJHM
BpeMeHHMa 6h;io hx je MHoro y Beorpa^y, a.m cy ce
npeTonH/iH y Cp6e, hcth je cnyâj ca ApOMynuMa kojh
uny y ryp6eT.iyK y ByrapcKy. riopeA CBe pyviyHCKe
nponaranje, BchHHa hx je ociaâ y rpnKoj napinjii,
Koja HMa BehHHy y KpyuieBy; H.\ia n noc/iOBeibciiHX
Apo.MyHa, kojh nponanajy cpncKOJ 11 6yrapcKOj napthjh. H KpyiueBCKH Oiobchh BehHHOM nay y rvp6eT/iyK Kao nyntjepn, h to y Cp6Hj'y, ByrapcKy h Py.\iyHnjy. BchHHa npnnaaa 6yrapcKOJ naprnJH, Koja je noc;ie
rpMKe Haijawa, a Mau>e cpncKOJ napTHJH (83 Kyhe ca
340 Ayiua) Bpoj MaKeAOHCKHx GiOBeHa y KpyuieBy hcnpeKH,nHO h nar/io pacTe, TaKO za he KpyuieBO no
BehHHH craHOBHHUJTBa H3ry6nTH THn uHHuapcKe saponin, jep obh cbc Maibe npnpauiTajy, h pal)aH>eM h
or aoce/baBajba. y KpyuieBy je 3hmh BHuie MyuiKor
craHOBHHUJTBa ho /ieTH, jcp ce 3hmh mhoth, BpaTe ca
neHa/i6e. CrapHJH, kojh cy nocTa/iH HMyhHH, ne luy
BHuie y newa/i6y, Beh >KHBe on creMeHe roTOBHHe."
McropHJcKHM CTapHiiava 3Ha\ieHHTe cy
o6a/ie
OxpuiicKor h IlpecnaHCKor Je3epa. HaponnTo je HHTepecaHTHa CTpvia KpcubawKa o6a;ia H3Me^y HuBHue h
.lo3HHKa, Koja je BHCOKa 20 no 30 Mdapa. y toj o6a/iH
Mecre cy CTeHOBHTe CTpexe h/ih noTKonuHe, or kojhx
cy MHore npeTBopeue y upKBHue h ckhtobc H3na.i
thx CKHTOBa h upKBHua cy deHe pa3HOBpcne 6oje, a
H3 h>hx cy MecTO H3pac/ie Knre or JipBeha h uBeha
Koje cy ce Ha;me/ie uaji je3epo. CXiMax ncnoji thx
KHTa apBeha h UBeha BHe ce Ha KpembanKHM ctonaMa cnHKe CBCTau*, H3pahjeHe y >khbhm 6ojaMa, naPOMHTO UpBeHOJ H n/iaBOJ, 38THM KpCTOBH yOKBHpCHH
KpyroBHMa, na cviHKe pa3nnx >KHBOTHtba, HapownTO jeêna h cpua, oneT y upBenoj 6ojn. Oih
cTBapn
BHiie na jy>KHOMe o;iceKy Ma-iora rpaaa, y komc je
nehHHCKa upKBHua Cb. na&rca. 3hji upwne H crcne cy
won cjiHKaMa, kojc cy yK>cHHx 6oja, a cgCl eJW cy
i
ZZV
HOBA CPBHJA
Ha H>HMa rpqKora THna. OpHaMeHTHKa hHJiHMa Ha koJHMa Xpncroc jiokh T. U,BHJHha je onoMHHDaâ Ha opHaMeHTHKy HauiHx dapHX hH^HMa. Hcto T3KO Ha OAceny
ManapHJn H3paijeHa je crcHKa Cb. Hmkojic
HaJBehe pa3Ba;iHHe cy Ha ocrpBy An;iy, Koje je
oko ABa KHJiOMeTpa jxyro h cacraBJbeHO je or BHiue
MaBHâcTHx 6pe>KyjbaKa. CTapHHe Ha Awjry npervie/iHO
h jacHO je onHcao npo(}). Ubhjhh (III, 739, 740): Ha
An;iy HMa MHoro pa3Ba;iHHa h #pyrnx dapHHa. Jy>KHH
HaJBHuiH Bpx 30Be ce Ka/ie, h Ha iteMy ce BHAe TeMeJbH H TparOBH 3HOBa. Hcthx OCTaTaKa HMa h Ha
ocTajiHM rjiaBHuaivia, napoHHTo Ha MpaMopy, i\ae ce
jacHO pacno3Hajy TparoBH rpanHfca JXajhe H3ivie,na rsl
je uejio odpBO 6hjio orpaljeHo 3h#om, jep HMa ocraTana or rpa^CKHX 3H#OBa h Ha o6ajiH h y TpecaBCKOJ
npH6pe>KHOJ 30hh. Kao rz cy Ha C. 3. crpaHH 6H;ia
BpaTa ocTpBCKor rpaâ, jep ce hcto h ca#a 30Be flopTa.
CeâuH ca An;ia Ka>Ky aa je or riopTe no FlepoBCKe
Ky-ne Ha DiaiiHOMe flo;by boaho Ka;izipMHcaH nyT,
nope^ n>era 6n;ia je CTpanopa Koja ce 30Be FlHpr, h
jw>Ke ce H3 TpcKe H3Mei)y C. 3. pia An;iOBor h KpHHe.
Oko 3HÔBa HMa no ^Hy je3epa no jny6HHe or, 4 m.
TeMejb ojx 3rpaâ, h cejbaun ca Anjia Rpxte aa je oko
rpaâ 6wjia Kacada (no^rpaê). Flo CTpaHaMa An/ia HMa
pa3Ba;iHHa or MHornx upKaBa h MaHacTHpa. Jlo6po cy
onyBaHe h HMno3aHTHO H3r\ne2iajy pa3BajiHHe HaJBehe
upKBe, o kojoj Ka>Ky rsl je 6n;ia npecnaHCKa MHTponojinja; HbeHH 3haobh cy or TecaHor 6Hrpa, npouia-
paHH peÔBHMa yMeTHyTMx unrajba, H3HyTpa OKpeqeHH,

h Ha fcHMa je oqyBaH >khbohhc; Behnx je AHMeH3nja
ho h je^Ha upKBa oxdhrckot h npecnaHCKor Kpaja.
B/iH3y Hê je ao6po oqyBaHH MaHacTHp Cb. BoropoAHue, koj'h h caR eny>KH. Ochm Tora HMa TeMejba h
3HAOBa or jeiiaHaecT nopyuieHHX MaHacTHpa h upKaBa
kojh cy 6h;ih Ha An;iy h/ih npeKO nyTa Ha o6a;iaMa
je3epa, HapoHHTO Ha hctohhoj ;' 3Hajy ce h CBeun kojuMa cy MaHacTHpn 6h.ih nocBeheHH
Cb. Tbopê, Cb.
HHKO/ia h MapeHa cy Ha hctomhoj o6a;iH je3epa npeMa
Cb. TepMany h npeMa cbctoj Cb. Ahh TopHMKOj
Ha
J, 3. CTpaHaMa Aujia cy: 12 anocTOJia, Cb. flHMHTpHJe,
:
Ha jy>KHOJ crpaHH An;ia je Cb. Cnac. Ha

nocvieTKy ce Ha ocrpBy bhjih o6pafyeH KpenHH KaMeH
on flpvrHX nopyiueHHX rpa^cBHHa.
Ochm CBeTe Tope hhthc Ha 5a;iKaHCKOM Flo/iyodpBy HeMaTo^HKO pa3Ba.THHa on upKaBa h MaHacTHpa.
Ah/i je h y no6o>KHoj IlpecnH 6h/io CBeTO octpbo. y
okojihhm ce^HMa HMa TpaAHUHJa â cy upKBe h ocra-ie
rpaljcBMHe 3H/iaHe Ka# je OBAe 6H/ia Kpa/bUJTHHa u
BehHHa rpatjeBHHa h HdHxobhx ocTaiaKa cy H3
ao6a CaMywÔBor MaKeôncKor uapcTBa, nnja je upectohhlu 6Hâ oBzie (976 1018). Kao na .aouHHJe HHJe
HHiHTa 3HaTHHJe 3Hzuho Ha AH.ny, a MOKua je h onyCTeo. Ceâun ca.MO 3Hajy na ra je 3ay3eo HeKH apHayTCKH 6er h aoBeo Ha ibera c/iOBeHCKe MH(})MHJe nocê
je 3eivvby h HdHX npenpo/iao jeiiHOM
6oraTOM 6hto^jckom TpKy, mhjhm noTOMUHMa
h caaa npnnaiia.
3a BpeMe Mora 6aBJbeH>a Ha An/iy craHOBa;ia je jeaHa
Be/iHKa cÔBeHCKa Hncj^wjcKa 3a;ipyra on 67 M.iaHOBa,
h to Ha C. 3. Kpajy ocipBa, y hcko/ihko Kyha. >KnBe
noMaBHTO on pH6apcTBa, 3aTHM on BHHorpaAa, Boha,
a cejy h HeiuTO Ma/io >KHTa. BcnHKe c/ioBencKe 3a/ipyre naTpnapxa/iHor >KHBOTa KapaKTepHCTHHue cy 3a
CKpoBHTe KpajeBe oko Maê flpecne h Ma/ior Jc3epa".
noy3aHHx HcropHJcKHX h apxeo/iomKnx now Hm
âTaKa no Kojmvia ce 3na #a cy Ha Tpn ocrpBa llpecne:
Ah iy, Tpaiiy h Ma/iOM rpa#y 6wê npecromme crcoBeHCKor ManeiiOHCKor uapcTBa on 976
1018 r. nocne
XDHcra. y cpeiiibeM BeKy noMHibe ce ripecna Kao
Bapouj, je/ina on npecroHHua uapa CaMyn/ia (1014 r.);
no H3BciiiTaJHMa bh33mthjckhx nncaua Ta je npecroHnua 6n/ia na ocrpBy. Ocbojhbujh /Iapwcy. CaMyn/io
Aaae npeneTH y flpecny momith Cb. AxH/iHJa, .lapHiuKor naipoHa; no upkbh Cb. Axn/inja (ca/ta je 30By MhTpono/inja") Ha3BaTO je obo ocrpBO ixonnnje An/i. Flo
ZL\'K.i>aHHHOBoj xpohhuh y6njen je npe^ npecnancKOM
upkbom no 3anoBccrn uapa JoBana Bia;iHC/iaBa (oko
1015 r.) cpncKH JuBan B/iaanMwp. y ycraiiKy 10/2 r.
nopyiun/iH cy rpa.i, uapeB ABop h on;baHKa.in xpaM
Cb. AxH/iHja HeyaqKM h (J)paniiycKn BOJHHmi kojh
v f>u.nn y c/iyw6H BioaHTujcKoj. OHaj xpaM y nehnnn
ATaHac urn.
Am
<
222
HOBA CPBHJA
Ha Ma;ioM Tpa^y noanrao je 1369 r. Tiecap" HoBaK

3a B/iajie cpncKor Kpajba ByKauiHHa.
O cnwKaMa
CBeTaua h CKHTCBHMa Ha K.nn(})OBHMa Majie flpecne
Koje cmo noMHita^H, HeMa hctophjckhx noiiaTaKa, a
HHcy hh HHaqe npoynaBaHe; a;iH je BepOBaTHO #a cy
h OHe H3 OBora ,0,06a,
6) JXe6ap
h H>eroBa OKOJimia,
Bapoui jle6ap Ha;ia3H ce Ha no^HO^jy KpnH nâ^

Koja npe^CTaBJba jy>KHH orpaHaK nâHHHe Kopa6a,
Medo Ha KOMe je Bapoui H3iiHrHyTO je H3 penHHX ao.iHHa h H3ô>KeHO cyHuy. flope/i, Tora, to je Medo ca
cbhx dpaHa onKOJbeHo nâHHHaivia, TaKO jia je ibHMa
nomyHO 3aiuTuheHO o^ BeTpoBa. CBa OKcyiHa 6pâ cy
6e3 ujyMe, h 36or Tora OHa H3 â^HHe 6/beuiTe cbojom 6eJiHHOM. flopea Tora Ha MHorHM BpxyHUHMa HMajy
Ma;ie* upKBHue, noje non/ie^ jom BHiue npHB/iane. Bapouj ce Aemi Ha bhujh h hh>kh Aeo. Jeaan je Ha crpMeHHTOM 6pn\\ a ^pyrH je Ha nojbaHH Koja je or nojinne UpHor UpHMa yziajbeHa TpH neTBpTH caTa Kpo3
cpeiiHHy BapoiuH npoâ3H japyra je^He penHue Koja
.neTH CKopo cacBHM npecyiHH; ajiH cjeceHH TaKO Ha6yja
Aa nonâBH 6/in>Ke kyhe.
Kyhe cy jaKO noTpnaHe h 36HJeHe je^Ha no
jipyre. Kyhe 6oraTHJHx Ap6aHaca cy BeJiHKe h cnojba
;ieno H3paljeHe. Cp6H HHcy CMejiH Kyhe y/ienmaBaTH,
h 36or Tora cy hm cnoâ npocTe h HeyrvieaHe. BhBajio je Cp6a kojh cy noKyuiaBajm na Kyhe cnojba
yênniajy, a;iH cy TaKe Kyhe OHê *pe#OBHo KypiuyMHMa n3peineTaHe. HaJBa>KHHJe cy 3rpaê OBe: Be^HKa
uaiviHJa na cpeziHHH BapouiH, c bhcokhm, 6e;iHM MHHa-
hhhc
peTOM, ca OKpyrviacTHM h jihmom noKpHBeHHM Ky6eTHMa. y toj qa.MHJH Ap6anacH cy ,a.p>Ka;iH 36opoBe Kafl
cy ce 6yHH/w npoTHB BJiacTH hjih Kajj cy cnpeMa^H
HeiuTO npoTHB Cp6a. Flopeix OBe HMa jom neT cnope/uiHX uaMHJa. Bhchhom cBOj'e Ky;ie naâ y ohh h BapoujKH caT, kojh je ca3Han or Hô6patieHa pernor
o6^yTKa, a nope;* Tora join je h HeoKpeneH, TaKO aa
y ujyn^HHaMa H3Mehy nojeAHHHX o6;iyTaKa BpaHe npaBC
dAWAAHA MAKbAUHHJA
rHe3â. Ha jyro3ana,HHOM Kpajy BapoiUH naâ y omh
Be/iHKa ABoenpaTHa KacapHa Koiy cy Ky/iyKOM noAHCp6n H3 XU'6pa H H3 OKOJ1HHC RiHaA BapOliJH,
uor BpxoM ko]h ce 30Be Cb. HiiKo/ia, Ge/iH ce cpnCKa npaBOcnaBHa upKBa, nopeA noje je h rpoG/be. Join
naaajy y omh 6eroBCKe K>he y cpeAHHH BapoiUH, Koje
cy c cno/ba HiuapaHe pa3HHM Goja.via, h npHB/iaqe Ha
ce nawiby. CBe ocra/io ochm obhx 3rpaAa je chtho,
He3HaTno h npâBO. Ma/ie HeoKpcMCHe KyhHiie noKpHBeHe hepaMHAOM, TecHe h BHJyraBe y.iHiie npeipnaHe
CMeTwieM h t)y6peTOM, Aajy oboj 3a6aweHOJ BapoiUH
MH
npaBH HCTOMlbaMKH
H3I7ie/l.
ocra;inM CBeTOM Be3aH obhm nyTenpeivia

BHMa
jyro3anaAy HAe nyT 3a E.iGacaH, npeMa
jyry 3a OxpHA h 5nT0/b, a npewa HCTOKy 3a Ck'orube.
H3 Oxptua ce aobo3h 3eJTHH (HeGpann ra 3uBy
oio"), Mac/iHHKe h jy>Kno Bohe
Oa OxpHâ ce aoB03H pnGa, najBHiue yco/beHe jeryybe. Kao jeAaH oa
3HaKOB3 KaKO je npocTO h npHMHTHBiio Ae6apcKO craHOBHHmTBO cny>KH to QJTO cy h Jlpn.M 11 PaAHKa nyHH
pH6e, a/in hx .flcGpanH hc y.viejy /iobhth h 3aTo ao6aB/bajy yco;bCHy pw6y H3 OxpHAa. H3 E>HTo/ba h
CKonAâ Ao6nBajy TproBaHKH ecnan, a H3 Ta^HMHHKa
hcko/ihko Bpcra cwpa, OBMiy nadpMy h ByHy. /Kuto
ce aohoch H3 BHTo/ba h TocTHBapa. CBaKa K>ha rnvia
CBOje BHuorpaAe, kgjh oa^hmho ycneBajy, h 3Gor Tora
CBaKa K>ha HMa CBora BHua h paKuje.
3aHaTH KOJHMa ce fli-GpanH 3aHHMajy cy obh:
nyilJKapCKH, KyjyHMrljCKH, Tep3HJCKH, KOBaMKH, 3HA3pckh, onanMapcKH. MO/iepcKH, 3urpac})CKH, Ka3anyHJCKn,
h;ipay;ijCKH h GojayujcKH. HyuiKapcKH 3anaT paA^' caMO
ApGanacn. Kyjym.iMjCKH je najcaBpiueHnjn oa cbhx, a
paAe ra HCK/by iHBO CpGif. KoBam cy msxom UiiraHH.
ZUGap
je ca
3nAapcKH 3aHaT
je
BCOMa
pa:*Bnjen.
Hcto TaKO
Bp.io
BeiuTH h 3orpa(})H, kojh yMejy c|)iiHO Ra pe>Ky

aPbo, h Aa npaae y ibeMy (J)nne (f)ur\pe yiivipamibocTH CKopo cbhx 3naTHHJnx upnana 3anaAHe MaKeAOHHje cy n3naAH.in neGapcKii 3orpa({)n. IbnxoBa ce
BeiuTHiia MO>Ke bhacth h y CKOnCKHM upKHa.Ma. Hcto
raKo cy MyBcmi AtGapcKH 3HAapn. Hounpa.iH cy no
cy
224
HOBA CPBHJA
ue;iOM Ba^KaHCKOM FIojiyocTpBy. PanHJiH cy 3HaMeHHTe rpafyeBHHe no uenoj CTapoj Cp6nJH h MaKenohhjh, 3aTHM no Cp6nJH, ByrapcKoj, Bochh h Xepuetobhhh, flaHac Hny no ue/ioj EBponH. Ap6aHacH ce
6aBe HeuiTO Tpr obhhom, ajiH caMO He3HaTHa MaibHHa,
a ocraiaK je >KHBeo Ha paqyH paje. y BapouiH ce H3pa^yje jieno 3eMJbaHO nocyê h raj'TaH, kojh ce H3B03H. H.Majy ABe nnjaue, h to jenHa 3a >khto a npyra
3a HaMHpHwue. FIa3apHH naH je Henejba. XlpjKH ce caMO
no no;iHe. Cejbaun Ha nHjauy no;ia3e y bc^hkhm rpynaMa. Hero TaKO on.rca3e. flpaTe hx HajMJbeHH cejMeHH,
ApHayTH, kojh Tpe6a na hx qyBajy on 3y^yMhapa. Hecto ce necn na th qyBapn Kan H3aljy H3 BapouiH onjbaqKajy cejbaKe kojh cy hx HaJMHJiH. A qecTO cy ce
TH CejMeHH y^py^KHBa^H C TypCKHM BOJHHUHMa na 3aje/iHH4KH onâqnajy cejbaKe kojh cy ce Bpaha^H c
na3apa.
y oko/ihhh ê6apcKoj HMajy nBe cyMnopHe 6att>e.
JenHa je BHine ceâ BaHHiuTa, jenaH can ynajbeHa on
He6pa, a npyra je y no/iHHH pene PanHKe Kon ce;ia
floHoO-KocoBpacTH. Kon ce/ia PaJMHue HMa MajnaH thnca, on Kora npaBe ouaKe Ha Kyhaivia h orHoHiHTa. y
oko^hhh ne6apcKoj ponn Bp;io no6ap nyfiaH, Kora HMa
BHiue BpcTa.
0o;inHa ne6apcKa cBa je Hacen>eHa Cp6HMa. On
thx Cp6a jenHH cy MycnnMaHH a npyrn cy npaBocâBHH FIpBH ce 30By Top6euiH, 3aT0 ujto cy CBOjy
Bepy 3a jenHy npa3Hy Top6y npoMeHnnH". Top6eniH
npencraBJbajy ct3hobhhujtbo Koje je nHTOMHj'e ho Ap6aHacH. CBeTKyjy MHore xpnuihaHCKe npa3HHKe. Mho
roBope h cpncKH h ap6aHaiuKH, a;iH 6o;be cpncKH
y caMOj BapOHiH >KHBe Cp6n, Ap6aHacn h U,hraHH. HMa h hcihto on CKopa nocejbeHnx U,HHuapa.
BehHHa Ap6aHaca )KHBe;io je on jaTaKOBatt>a, Kpaê h
OTHMaH>a. HHaqe no ueo naH npoBone 6ecnoc/ieHH no
Kac})aHaMa. yenen Hepana h pacnyuiTeHa >KHBoTa MHorH
ceonajy npoTHBnpnponHOM h nepBep3H0M HaHHHy >khBOTa. HHane >KHBe y MOHoraMHJH. )KeHe hm ce Kpnjy,
h MHoro cy Mopa/iHHJe ho MyiiiKapun. TaMHO npa3Hyjy npa3HHKe h nocTe paMa3aH. ZloKne ron 6h h>h-
3AflAflHA
MAKEAOHHJA
xob nocr Tpajao, Aoivie ne 6h

Ha y^MHH nyiiJHTH, nmH BOe
CpncKO cranoBUHiuTBO je
HeaeJbe une y upKBy. flope^
HMa y KyhH HapoqnTy co6y y
je HeKa BpcTa OMahe Kane/ie.
CMeo hh jeâH
Cp6HH
h/ih jecTH.
BeoMa no6o>KHO. CBaKe

Tora
csaKa nopoziHua
kojoj ce Mo/ie Bory. To

CBaKa nopozuma c/iaBH
VoJ\eMAaH u to jeer c/iaBy.

CpncKO cTaHOBHHUJTBO e6apcKe OKOJiHHe HMa
CBe one o6nqaje Koje HMa h CTaHOBHHUJTBO iipyrnx
cpncKHx oG.iacTH. CBaKe ro^HHe ce p>Ke h Bpiue jxoAO.iq, KO.ieae, ;ia3apHue, IjypêBCKH ypanaK h 6o>KHhHH
npaaHHUH. HHTepecaHTaH je oGHMaj OBora Kpaja &a ce
CBaii6e h Benwajba Bpiue caMO Ha IleTpoB ziaH (29 jyHa).
CBa.a6a ce CBaa6yje MHTaBHx iuecT AaHa; noMHibe #Ba
AaHa npe FleTpoBa-jiHe, a CBpiuaBa ce Tpehn AaH nocne tot npa3HHKa. M/iaztenun He CMejy y upKBy nhn
oa rieTp )Ba ro HnKo./ba-AHe. Koa upKBe Ha HnKOJbixan nrpajy M/ia/ie ko/io.
nopeu CBOic no6o>KHOCTH HapoA je mhoto h npa3H0BepaH. Bcpyje y BaMnnpe, BH/ie, BeuiTnue, cchkc
mnocyMe h zipyre nojaBe. LLJia cy BaMriHpn, BH/ie h
BeiuTMue, no3HaTo je CBaKOM MHTaouy. CenKe cy nohHa
npHBHhefba, h nocrajy MaxoM oa oriTHMhUx BapKH. HhTepecaHTH^ cy BcpoBaiba y TO/iocyM. Tc/i c>mh Ha/inwe Ha CTapooiOBeHCKe h pHMCKe KyhHe 6oroBe. To/iocyMH cy HCKa BpcTa ^yxoBa kojh HCKJbyMHBO caMO
y KyhaMa npe6nBajy, h caaKa Kyha HMa CBora to/iocyMa. Ohh ce Meljyco6HO pa3/iHKyjy y TOMe hjto cy
hckh Ao6pn a hckh 3/ih. CBany Hecpehy Koja ce y
toj Kyhn ecH, EbHMa npunncyjy. Y bo3H c obhm BepOBaibHMa jaKO je paenpocrpro 6ajaibe h raiaibe. y
CBaKOM noc^y HMa Gajaiba h raiatba, c KOJHMa cy neCTO HOMtHJaHe H MO/lHTBe.
fleoapcKa Houjiba je OBa. MyujKapuH Hoce (})ec
C mfaaHKuM, 3aTHM tiene (ryu.) h cnyiuTcny he/iaBKy,
zio/iaMy, nnjac pa3HHM 6ojaMa nujapaH. Hcnoa AcnaMe
Hoce u iMaAaH M Gcmbh (MaKiiJnpt) h CBH/iene noTKOJieilKe. /leTH ce ne Hoce MaKUjn;
h HCnOA zm/iaMe
HMajy liinpoKc rahe, h Taaa ce Ha noraMa HOCC ToaRyQH.
HCenoce noce 3o6aH i<j ', Koje je iuuhk Ha MyiuKy ,aocboj
ur,n\
CPW
HOBA CPbtfJA
J26
caMO
apyKMHJe HiuapaHO, uiHpoK h KpaiaK

nojac c pecHuaivia ca crpaHe cnyruTeHHM, 6oBqy (Keuejby) oa ByHe h;ih oa naiwyKa. 3hmh Hoce uoKy Koja
Ha/iH iH Ha KanyT. Ha niaBH je luapeHa nana, a ncnoA
H>e n jiapnHHa" oa nâTHa, Koja je H3Be3eHa no crpaHaMa. no neJiy h no BpaTy HCKHheHe cy HOBUHMa.
Ha nojacy ce HaMecTH no hcko;ihko inapeHHX inaMnja,
no Bpx koj'hx Mâê yuene Hoce cpe6pHe na(})Te. Bephoct je koa cpncKHX >KeHa Heo6HHHa. HaK h koa ohhx
Koje MyweBH ocraB/bajy no ABe u no TpH roAHHe. BapoujKe >KeHe paAe caMO AOMahe, a ceocKe h AOMahe
h no^CKe nocaoBe.
/iaMy,
je
b)
Ilope^,
KHêBO h Kona^.
oko cpeAtter TOKa peKe Be;iHKe,

oa ce;ia BpoAa Ha jyry ao ccrca 3Ayn>a Ha ceBepy. To
je nâHHHCKa o6;iacT OHBimeHa bhcokhm 6H;iHMa, a yHy*
Tpa HcnyH>eHa hhckom 3apaBHH Kojy cy jvuiaê, ^ydoKe
peqHe AOJiHHe Hcei<;ie h pa36H/ie je y noBHJapue h
Koce. Mehy pe^HHM AOJiHHaMa HaJBa>KHHJe cy ao/ihhc
BeîHKe, TojieMe h TpecKe; oa ibeHHX MHornx npnTOKa
je HaJBeha Ma/ia PeKa, Ha kojoj je MecTO CaMOKOB.
H3Mel)y Ma/ie PeKe h Tojieivie ah>kc ce noBHJapau 4>ojhhk, ca bhchhom ao 1000 m., kojh pa3ABaja riopeq Ha
ceBepHH h jy>KHH. Me^y ocrajiHM yHyTpamtbHM noBHJapUHMa h Kocaivia HapoHHTO ceH3ABaja niOMa3HH Ko3;aK.
Ha HCTOKy je IlopeH orpatjeH AyraMKHM h luhPOkhm 6pAHMa, a na 3ana#y n/iaHHHOM MeÔHUOM. Ha
ceBepy h ceBepo3anaAy nperpaljeH je oa CKoncKe h TeTOBCKe KOivjHHe orpaHuwvia KapmjaKa h CyBOM TopoM,
Kpo3 Koje ce npodHJa TpecKa, KpaTKOM h KpuieBHTOM
K^HcypOM koa ce;ia LUHiueBa.
H3 OBano hbpcto orpah^Hor riopena BOAe ABa
nnaBHa nyTa, oa kojhx jeâH HAe npeKO ce/ia BpoAa,
npH./ieii h 6HTo;t>CKy KOTviHHy, a Apyrn
3a KnneBO
npeKO ce/ia 3Ayn>a 3a CKonjbe npBH je 6oji>h, actcom
a ApyrH je neniaHKH, CTpM h
je npaBH ko/ickh nyT,
riopeq
je 06/iacr
He3roAaH.
KonaweM
ce Ha3HBa ropibH h cpeAfoH c/ihb Cry-
3AnA;iHA makeaohhja
121
zene h/ih H6pOBe PeKe. Ta o6;iacT orpabeHa je ca cbhx

crpaHa bhcokhm n/iannnaMa: BncrpoM, Ka/ieHAepnuoM,
JaMOM H flpOCTpattjCKOM
fl.iaHHHOM. K.THMa h n/ion.naHHHCKHM

oCiacTHMa aocahoct cy OHaKBe nao y
jiaimhe Cp6nje. y oboj Ao6po o6patjenoj pewfioj ao;ihhh HMa 15 cpncKHX h jeAHO ap6aHaujKO ce/10.
H3BopHH npeiieo ToêMe PeKe h/ih TpecKe 30Be
ce y jeAHOM Ae/iy Topê Khhcbo, a y iipyroM 3ajac.
flpeiieo or BapoiuH KnweBa hh3 VoJiQMy no 6poACKe
K/incype 30Be ce JloFbe Khhcbo.
yc/ie;i Tora ilito je npoxoâH y npaBuy ceBepjyr, riopen npe^cTaB.'ba nocpeAHHHKy o6.iacT H3Met}y 6hTO^>CKe h rKoncKe kot^hhc Kpo3 ibera ce MO>Ke yhH
y 3ananny MaKCAOHnjy h Mory ce o6hHh BapjapcKe

K/incype, Koje ce Aajy /iaKO 3aTBopHTH, h kojc cy y
pamija BpeMeHa 6ujic yTBpêHe. 3aTO ce h npBa cpnCKa ocBajaiba y MaKeaoHHJH He npehy ao;ihhom BapAapa, Beh cy nuj;ia Kpo3 FIopeM flpn/ieny.
y obhm 06/iacTHMa >KHBe noMeiuaiiH Cp6H npaBOCflatiHH, IloMauH, Cp6n Myc^HManH h Ap6anacH. 0;i
cbhx obhx o6.iacTH CTnorpa(J)CKH je naJMHCTHJn riopeM.
On iberoBnx 38 ce;ia caMO y ABa Ma.na ccaa HMa Ap6anaca. CpncKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO y FIopeMy npnnaAa
n/ieMeny BpcjauHMa, kojh npeAcraBJbajy HajcTapnje craHOBHHUJTBO OBHX 06/iaCTH. flopeA IbHX HMa H HdUTO
BeoMa CTapnx AOce.i>cHni<a oj OaApa, Oxpnaa h cyihx o6aacTH. fIopem<H Bpcjaun cy uptfOMatbacTii.
CMdjH h peTKo niaBH. Pacra cy ocpeAiber h Ma/ior. y
OniHTC Cy CHTHHJHI KOCTHJy H rpa^C HO CTaHOBHHLUTBO
Cpejfbe h HcroMHe MiKe.iOHHje; napo'iHTO HCMajy Kao
ohh jaKe BH.iHue h jaoyqnue. Hoce oae/io oa Conor
luaJKa, np.io peTKo oa upHor, 3aTHM no3naTe khmcbckc
Kane. /Kene, TaKotye upnoMaibacre, totobo rapaBe, Bp.io
Cy CHTMC H MCKHX, HO peTKO CaCBHM nHTOMHX upia
.THua. noBC3yjy ce npno.M uapaftfOM h hoco w 3y6yii
pyKaBH na KOtuyjblMa H AOibH o6oa Komy/be H3Be3enH cy upBcHUM rooMeTpHJCKHM cJ)iirypaMa. H ohc DC
o6MOTaBajy noja
:ko hc ohoahko Kao ce/banKe
6HTo^CKora no;ba H ikene u A>yAn cy pp/10 hpcahh.
:
nuoft v^rDHJA
H ano je BehHHa IlopeMaHa y neqa;i6H, CBe cy ibHBe

oko ce.na ypaêHe, h no no;t>HMa ce BHAe Ha pa#y nomaBHTO
}KeHe.
Ce.ua cy no npaBW/iy Ma/ia. HaJBehe cejio je Jlo-
y KOMe HMa 110 Kyha CaMO mecT ce;ia cy hhcj);iyun, a CBa cy ocra/ia cno6oRHd. Cejia cy pa36HJeHa
Ha Maxajie, Koje ce Ha3HBajy no HMeHHMa noje^HHHx
nopOAHua. MecTO ue/ie Maxajie npnnaAajy jeAHOJ noPOahuh. TaAa CBe Kyhe jeAHe Maxajie oiaBe HCTy cnaBy.
CBaKoj TaKOJ Maxa;iH 3ajeAHH4Ke cy ncnauie h inyMe,
a 3HpaTHa 3eMJba jeaHe TaKe Maxaê je OABOj'eHa, y
jenHoj rpynn, h HenoMemaHa ca 3eMJbOM Apyre Maxajie.
H OBAe cy Aaoe Kyhe pa36HJeHe Ha Maxaê, Kao ujto
je to cjiyâj Ha B/iacHHH, rê 36HJeHe Maxajie ca BehHM
6pojeM Kyha H3i7ie.najy H3 AajbHHe Kao 3ace6Ha ce/ia.
CeocKe Kyhe cy MaxoM 6e#He, oa njioia, pacahom cjiaMOM hjih kpobhhom noKpHBeHe, 6e3 ouaKa H
npo3opa To cy Hajrope Kyhe. y HaJHOBHje BpeMe noHHH>y ce jaBjbaTH 3HAaHe Kyhe, nôÔM noKpuBeHe,
Koje cy o6hhho Ha ABa cnpaia. JeAHoenpaTHa ce Kyha
AChh Ha Kyhy h noHAHJiy. Ca BpaTa ce Hajnpe y.na3H
y noHAHJiy, y kojoj je CTOKa. Kyha je oa noHAHJie oaBojeHa HerAe 3haom, a HerAe caMO apbchom orpanoM
hah nêTepoM, kojh je o6hmho bhcokao 1 m., a HHKaA
He Aonnpe ao TaBaHa. Y KyhH ropn BaTpa h craHyje
ce, ap>kh ce CBe KyhHO nocytje, cyiHH >khto h ap>kh
CBa xpaHa. Ty cy hhckc npocTopuje ca npope3HMa y
3H/u)BHMa kojh ce KanKOM 3aTBapajy, upHe oa rapw,
npenyHe nocyâ. Uoix hm je 3eMJbaH. y hckhm jeAHocnpaTHHM KyhaMa HMa y3 OBaj Aeo j>AHa Oiiaja, cacbhm peTKO h abc PeTKO je y3 noHAH/iy Ma;iH oaBojeH npocrop, kojh ce 30Be H36a, h y n>oj ce Apace
Kaue h joui KaKBe ocTaBe.
y ABoenpaTHMM KyhaMa Ha AOH>eM cnpaTy je noHAH/ia, KauiTO h H36a, a yHyTpa y noHAH/iH cy creneHHue Koje BOAe Ha roptbH cnpaT. Ty jbyAH craHyjy. y
H>eMy je HerAe caMO w Kyha" ca jeAHOM OAajoM, y HMyhhhjhx cejbaKa ca ABe OAaje, oa kojhx je jeAHa 3a rode. CKOpo HHKaA He Apace CTOKy y 3ace6HOJ srpaAH.
HBopHuiTe HHj'e orpaheHo, h oko Kyhe peTKO HMa KaKBHiia,
3rpa;ia. CaMO y hckhm ce/iHMa n-aeMtbe

36HjeHe
cy
y \eany rpyny h ;ip>Ke ce aa/be on ce.na.
TophbH h ZloJbH Konan cy CKopo nomyHO cpnCKa o6âcT. y JlotheM KwHeBy BehHHy HHHe Cp6H npaBOCâBHH, a.iH HMa m aocTa FIoMaKa, h jeaHO ap6aHaiuKo ce.io. y TopHDeM KnneBy Ap6aHacH h FIoMauH
HHHe CKopo npeKo noôBHHe craHOBHHUJTBa, a 3ajac
je CKopo caB noap6aHaiueH. >Khbothc npn.iHKey obhm
o6âcTHMa cy chhmhc OHHMa y FIopeMy.
OBe cy 06/iacTH 6n/ie Ha nyiy na 6yny noap6aHameHe. Ap6aHacH cy CBe BHiiie npo^Hpa/in h CBe
bhujc HaceâBa/iH ce. Ohh cy ce Hajnpe jaBJba/in y
qeiaMa Kao 3y;iyMhapH, n:baqKa/iH cy CTOKy, o;xboah/ih
#euy h Jbyne h yue*bHBa/iH cy. Thm cy Hajnpe noctht/ih to jxa je paA h >khbot no ce/iHMa nocTao HeMoryh. Hajnpe ce HanyiuTa/io croMapcTBO no nânHnaMa h o6pat)HBaFbe ohhx 3eMa/ba Koje cy aa/be on
HaMHH OAy3eTH cbh
ce/ia. CTaHOBHHiiJTBy cy Ha Taj
oho
Mopa-io
hHh y nena/i6y. OBa
3a
>khbot,
h
ycnoBH
je
ce;ia Mopa/ia cy HMaTH ap6aHaujKe HajaMHHKe h/ih AepyaeHUHJe, kojh cy hx MyBa^H. Obh HajaMHHUH ce Hajnpe Hace/ie y ccny, h mccto no ujyiviaMa 3y/iyMhapH
cy Taâ y ce/iy. Ohh ^p>Ke Be3y ca cbojhm can/ieMeHHUHMa y He6py, h ohh hx noMawy. HacTajy Tajia otMHue HMaiba, y6HJaiba, h cpncnor craHOBHHUJTBa nocreneHO HecTaje h Hce^>aBa ce. TaKo je y Konawy
ce/io HpyroBO 6h/io CTpax 3a CBOjy OKO/iHHy.
1/cjicn OBaKBHX npn^HKa CBe BpcTe paaa 6n;ie cy
jaKO orpaHHMene, h rviaBHa 3apaAa nocra/ia je neMa;i6a.
y newa;i6y nay cbh MyiHKapun on 13 no 60 roAHiia.
Hnje 6h/io Kyhe Koja no HeKor on cbojhx w/iaHOBa
u
HHje c/ia;ia y ja6aHy
a y kojoj Kyhn HMa bhuic
MyujKHx, koa Kyhe ocTaHe jeân h/ih ABojnua. y nena/i6H ce 6aBe ayHfyep.iyKOM, CTpyrapcrBOM, mhoth cy
x.ic6apH, Kacann, mieiravHJe h nw/napn. Hay naJBHUje
y B.iaiHKy, 3aiHM y Cp6n)y h ByrapcKy
y nena/i6y no/iase o6hmho y MapTy, a Bpahajy
ce noueTKOM HOBeM6pa. HeKH ociajy no ziBe no Tpn
roiuiHe, peê h BHiue ro^HHa.
V caMOM HopeMy je rviaBwa npwBpwiia BohapcTBO
kbhx npyrnx
HOBA CPBHJA
230
Bohe
1
Ao6po h HMa ra pa3HHX Bpcia. Oko

npodopHJe noKpHBeHe BohitauHMa. Haj-
je Bp;io
cy Be;iHKe
Bmue HMa ja6yKa
h Kecrefba, 3aTHM KpyiuaKa, Tpeopaxa h ujjbHBa. Bohe npoâjy nor/iaBHTO y

ripujieny h CKon^by. 3eMJbopaAtt>a je cna6a h craHOBHHUITBO Ce CBOJHM >KHTOM He MO>Ke HCXpaHHTH.
Toivie je maBHH y3poK iuto He Mory o6pat)HBaTH OHe
H>HBe Koje cy yâjbeHHJe on cejia. Cejy nor/iaBHTO KyKypy3, pa>K, jenaM, npoco, ypoB h 6peHHuy, Bp/io petko h nuieHHuy. BHHorpaâ HeMajy, a bhho ao6HBajy
H3 CKonjba. 3HaTaH cy npnxo^ HMa^H on iuyivie. H3B03e jpBeHy rpa^y h hyMyp, 3aTHM pa3He nojbonpHBpe^He aâTKe.
CTonapcTBO je 6uno CKOpo cacBHM HanyurreHO,
jep cy 36or cnrypHOCTH Mopa^H HanycTHTH 6aqH/ia"
y n/iaHHHH. CTOKy jipm.e oko Kyha. HnaK H3B03e Heujto Mpca y flpH/ien, 3aTHM ypjy y TocTHBap, rjne je
HapoHHTO Ap6aHacH Kynyjy.
iuapba,
X.
KOCOBCKA CTAPA CPBHJA.

a)
Kocobo
Kocobo h MeTOXHJa.
MeTOXHJa
npH3peHCKHM
KpajeM h
riojipHMOM MHHe BejiHKy reorpac})CKy ue;iHHy 3a nojy
cy Be3aHe mapCKe myne: CnpHHHh. Cpe^cna, OnoJbe
h Topa, h jihmckc >Kyne fbaB h TycHHê. Ona je Poro3HOM HBpcTO orpatjeHa on CTape PauiKe hjih Hobona3apcKor CaHyana, y kojoj HeMa npocTpaHHX kocobCKO-MeToxHJCKHx KOT^HHa, Beh HacTaje o6;iacT bhcokhx
h KpiueBHTHx nâHHHCKHX BeHaua. C jyra je orpa\)eua UlapoM h KapaâroM, Koje cy npo6HJene Kaqahhmkom K/iHcypoM, Te cy Kocobo h MeTOXHJa y Be3H
ca TophbHM noBapâpjeM h KOTviHHaMa CKoncKe Oape
Cp6Hj'e, Koje cy cjimmhc n/iacTHKe, a^H .apyKHHJe kjihmc
h BereiauHje. YivieTHyTH H3Mei)y paujKHx KpajeBa h
Topiber FIoBapâpja, HBpcro orpaêHH, h npHpo^no
6oraTH, Kocobo h MeToxnja 6h;ih cy ueHTpajma o6/iacr
cpncKe HeMaHbnhcKe /ipwaBe 3a speMe teene HaJBebe
h
KOl.OBCKA ^TAPA LPHHJA
cHare.
h>oj cy
231
MHora Ba<Ha Mecia h hctophjckh cno-
MeHHUH H3 Haiue Be^HKe npouj.iocTH
FIpH3peH Hobo
Bpno, 3BeqaH, flayHH, fleh, JXevauH, TpaqaHHua h

BatbCKa. HeMa HHJeAHe apyre 06/iacrH y CpncrBy Koja
6h ce no to/ihkom 6pojy cnoM.HHKa n no to/ihkhm
HCTopujcKHM ycnoMeHaMa Mor/ia ycnope^HTH c Kocobom h MeTOXHJOM. H 36or Tora cy c npaBOM naujH
dapHJH nncuH OBy o6;iacT Ha3HBa/iH HaiuHM cbcthm
KpajeBHMa h Kpa^>HUOM h uapnuoM npaBOM Cp6njoM a
(M. Mn;iojeBHh).
KOCOBO C MeTOXHJOM H npH3pCHCKHM KpajeM WHHH

OHe
ueHTpa.iHe 06/iacrH Ba/inaHCKor ncnyocrpBa
Aeo
on Koje HMa HajKpahnx h HapoMHTHX npH.ia3a JanpaHckom h ErejcKOM Mopy, h H3 Koje ce Nio>Ke Haj/iaKine
3aB/iaaTH 3HaTHHM r^jiom FIo/iyocTpBa. On oco6mor
je 3Hawaja OBa H>HX0Ba ocoOnna. HeMa bhcokhx, Teujko npoxojHHx nâHHHCKHX Maca Koje 6h hx orpat^HBa/ie Oil Ap6aHHJe h on ô^HHe Be/iHKor UpHMa.
J\ok HHJe 6H.ia carpat)eHa MHTpoBawKO-CKoncKa >Ke;ie3Hnua, TproBaHKH nyTCBH H3 KocoBa h MeTOxnje huj/ih
cy noMaBHTo npeMa CKa^py, aaTHM npeMa Jbeiny h
Zlpaqy. TproBaMKH npoMeT je 6ho naJBHiue Ha Ty crpaHy
ynyheH. JaapaHCKa o6a;ia oko CKa^pa 6n;ia je weoHa
h HCTOpHJcna o6a/ia OBe 06/iacrH; npe;icTaB:ba/ia je
HaeHO npHMopje. Ta otbopchoct HHe3anjTHheHOCT npeMa
Ap6aHHJH jeaan je on pa3.iora ujto cy OBjie Ap6aHacn
Aa^>e Ha hctok npoap/in, h to fla/be ho nnae nyw nyraMKHX rpaHHua H3Mel]y Cp6a h ApCaHaca Ann on
ceâMAeceTHx ro;uiHa npom/ior BeKa, on KaKo je carpaijeHa MHTpoBaMKa >Keê3H.ua, a HapowHTO jzounnje
Kan je ÔBpiueHa ;iHHHja CKon/be Co/iyn, totobo je
cacBHM Hecra/io TproBaMKHx Be3a ca CKajpoM, h TproBaMKH npoMeT KocoBa h Mctoxhjc ynyheH je norviabhto npeMa Co/iyHy.
KocoBCKa CTapa Cp6nja OABOjena je on CKoncKe
CTape Cp6nje n/iaiiHHCKOM npewaroM LiJape h KapaAara, Koje cy npocewcHe .ayrawKOM h tcchom k\m;immkom K.iHcypOM. Ta n/iannncKa npeqara npeAcraB/ba
BeoMa otiJTpy npnpoAHy rpannny. Ha jyry on ifee, Kao
ujto cmo BHjie^H, npeoB;ial)yjy oco6hhc MeAHTepaHCKe
HOBA CPBHJA
22)2
k^hmc Ha ceBepy on KaqaHHHKe fOiHcype He ocehajy

ce hh cj\a6n HdChh yTHiiajn. Kocobo, MeToxnja h jpyre
KcnviHHe Ha ceBepy on KanaHHKa HMajy cpe;ufce-eBponCKy KJiHMy. JleTH HeMa OHaKHX acera Kao y Ckofickoj
CTapoj CpdHJH. He6o je neiuhe Hao6;iaqeHo, KHine cy

qeuihe; aTM0C(J)epCKH Ta;io3H cy npaBHJiHHJe pacnopetjeHH Ha CBa roflHiniba BpeMeHa. iipeKO 3HMe naaajy
bctchkh CHeroBH, 3dor Tora HMa BHuie pe^Hua, Koje hh
jicth He npecymyjy. Per<e hhjh je cjihb kojihko ohhx
Ha jyry on KanaHHHKe Knncype HMajy MHoro BHiue
BOê. HMa MHoro BHine pena Koje ce Mory CMaTpaTH
aa cy EoraTe boaom h qnje cy AOJiHHe h JieTH B.na>KHe
h noKpHBeHe 6yJHHM 3e;ieHH;ioM. 36or Tora CBera y
CKoncKoj CTapoj Cp6nJH HeMa ;ieTH OHe cnpjbeHOCTH

h cnapyiueHOCTH, hhth 3eMjbHiuTe HMa OHy >KyhKacry
h upBeHy 6ojy Kao idto ce bhah jy>KHO on KaMaHHHKe
KjiHcype. y Kocobckoj CTapoj Cp6HJH npeuBJiatjyje
o6pac;io 3eêHO 3eMJbHinTe bctchkh inyMCKH KOMn/ieKCH
xpacTOBe h 6yKOBe rope, 6yJHe name h JiHBaê. Jy>Khhx Ky^TypHHx 6HJbaKa HeMa HHKaKO, a peTKH cy h bhHorpaAH. MecTO ft>HX ce jaBJbajy npocTpaHa nojba ca
>KHTHMa, HapOMHTO nUJeHHUOM H KyKypy30M, 3aTHM
uiJbHBauH, kojh noHHH>y o#Max oko KaqaHHKa h npeMa
ceBepy CBe ce BHuie npocTHpy. Hajjann BeTpOBH cy:
KoiuaBa, Koja ayBa on cyHiia", to jecT on, HCTOKa, a
on Cp6Hj'e ziyBa ceBep. y jeceH no KocoBy h MeTOxhjh H3jyTpa ce enemy rycTe Marvie Koje ce CBe BHuie
pa3petjyjy ihto ce cyHue BHuie neft>e. H3a Marvie HaCTajy Haj/ienniH ;uhh. TaKa MarjiOBHTa jyipa Heo6HMHO
cy xjianHa, a Ha no/me )Kera je HecHOCHa. CHer noHHH>e
naârn o MnTpoBy nue. CBane ro^HHe He na.ua jeîHaKo; aKO na^He bcjihkh, onpxm ce no Meceu flaHa.
Knuja naaa HaJBHine y jeceH.
:
6).
Kocobo
riojbe.
Kocobo je npocTpaHa KOT;iHHa npaBua ceBep-jyr

Zlyra je 84 km., a mnpoKa 14 km. {on npHiuTHHe no
ZIpeHHue). flpoTHBHo ocTa^HM KOTJiHHaMa HoBe Cp6nje,
Aho KocoBa npeflcraBjba pa3Bol)e H3Mel}y npHTOKa Erej*
233
KOCOBLKA CTAPA CPBHJA
CKor h UpHor Mopa. To ce pa3B0ê Ha/ia3H y jy>KHOM
KocoBa flo/ba koa ce/ia HepoAHMâ. Oho je Bp;io

hhcko h npeAdaB/ba M/iaAO pa3B0ê Koje ce pa3Bn;io
Ha AHy Her/iaujiber kocobckot je3epa. HncKa Koca koa
KyKe, cacraB/beHa oa jc3epcKor necKa h uj/byHKa, pacraB/ba c/ihb HepoiiHMKe, Koja tqhq npeMa jyry y /leneHau, hwhb Chthhuc, Koja, noMHibyhn H3 6ape Ca3/iHJe, npHMa UpHO/beBy, UpeHHuy h Jbyuiry c zieBe h
MHore npHTone c AecHe CTpaHe, Kao Ta^HMKy, JaibCBKy,
Ae.ny
TpaManKy, npHuiTeBKy, Jla6 h CaMOApe>Ky. H3.ia3chH

H3na HepoA'iM/ba, HepoAHMKa ce panBa Ha hbhuh
KocoBa h jeâH Aeo ce OABaja h Tewe npoceKOM Kpo3
6pAO BaTy npeMa ceBepy y CnTHHuy. Ha npBH nonieA
Mor/io 6h ce pehw na OBjxe HMaMO peTKy nojaBy jia ce
je/iHa peKa pawBa h y^HBa y ABa pa3.iHHHTa peHHa
c/iHBa. Ann Ta nojaBa HHJe nocra.ia npwpoAHHM nyTeM,
jep je yTBpt)eHO Aa je OHaj npoceK BeiuTawKa TBopeBHHa, a CTBopeH je Aa ce ;iaKUie BOAa HaBpHe y jeany
BOjieHHuy. TâBHa Maca HepoAHMKe Te4e Kpo3 Jy>KHO
Kocobo h yTHne y /IeneHau koa KawaHHKa.
CHTHHua yTHMe y Hoap HcnoA MmpoBnue. OBaj,
TenyhH H3 nâHHHCKe o6/iacTH oa Crapor Ko-naujHHa
y npaBuy 3anaA-ncTOK, AOAnpyje ceBcpHy TaMKy KocoBa,
h OAJeAHOM caBHJa npeMa ceBepy h yceua ce y Bwuje
nâHMHCKe o6.iacTH.
FIojenHHH ac/iobh npocrpaHe kot/ihhc HMajv pa3/iHMHa HMena. HajniHpH Aeo, oa <t>epH30BHha h HepoAHM/ba na ao ByMHTpna, npeACTaBJba npaBO Kocobo, h
IlpHy H>eMy cy r/iaBne kocobckc BaprvujH h Mecra
UJTHHa, ByMHTpH, OcpH30BHtl H JIlUUMH. Jy>KHH y3anH
Aeo KocoBa, noMaBHTO AO/iHua Jlenenua, 30bc ce 06HLU,
a 6pe>Ky^KacTH aco H3ftiel)y HepoAHMKe h Cmthhuc ao
noA n/ianHnv /KeroBau 30Be ce /Iytobh; jcaaH Aeo ziyroBa
jy>KHO o;i <4vpn30BHha 30Be ce nayH-flo/bc; y HajjywHHJeM Ae/iy 06Hiie je KaqaHHK, kojh HMa c/ia6e BC3e
ca Kocobom h npeAcraB/ba Bapoiu na H3.na3y H3 Kanahhmkc K.iHcype. Kao jy>KHH, hcto ce TaKO cy3H h ceBepnn Aco KocoBa h npefje y ByMHTpHCKO-MHTpoBHMKH
pyKaBau, y komc je na Chthhuh no3Haio HcropHJcKn
Mecro flaHTHHa.
:
234
HOBA CPBHJA
Cnopo Ha cpeÔKpahH H3Me^y IlpHiiiTHHe h ByMHTpHa y/iHBa ce y CHTHHuy Jlad, kojh AOJia3n H3
JlancKe >Kyne h;ih Ma;ior KocoBa. HiiyhH H3 Ma;ior
KocoBa, oh y Bctchko Kocobo H36nja JlancKOM K;ihcypoM h;ih TeHeujô^CKHM KaamieM. Onjie rê Ta k;ihcypa H36Hj'a y Kocobo Uojbe H3BpmeH je jenaH o,n;
HajBehHx cbctckhx aoraljaja, 6ho ce kocobcku 6oj. Tok
Tora 6oja npeMa caâiHtbeM no3HaBaH>y CTBapH, 6ho
je OBaj. TypuH cy aolljjih oa HoBor Bp.ua, noaejbeHH
pia KocoBa riojba h KocoBCe6nTKel389 r. npeAdaBACH no.iowaj cpick h TypcKe BojcKe c o6e dpaHe Chthhuc.
KOCOBCKA CTAPA CrbHJA
2'6b
y flBa oApeAa, oa kojhx je aecHH KpcHyo HcnoA 6pna

Ko3HHue, a ApyrH Ha BejbeTHH h na TpanaHHuy. CkohueHTpnca/iH cy ce y FIphuithhh. Cp6n cy aouj;ih c
Ma.ior KocoBa ao/ihhom Jla6a. FIpeMa HcnHTHBaibHMa
Job. MniiJKOBHha, y kocobckom 6ojy pa3/iHKOBa/ia cy
ce OBa qeTHpH crania.
Cp6H cy ce nocrpoJH/iH Ha TepacH c AecHe dpaHe
/Ia6a. y cpe^HHH je buna BOJCKa kojom je KOMaHAOBao Jyr Bor\naH, Ha /ieBOM KpH/iy je 6ho B.iaTKO ByKOBHh, a Ha aecHOM A- BohxhobhH. y no3aaHHH 3a
;ief)HMa Jyr BorâHa 6ho je KHe3 JIa3ap, a H3a H>era
non TpjeMOM y pe3epBH ByK BpaHKOBHh. TypuH cy
6h;ih nocTpojeHH c .neBe cipaHe Jla6a. y cpeAHHH cy
6h/ih JaHHMapH, Ha aecHOM KpH/iy Baja3HT, Ha ;ieBOM
JaKy6, cy^TaH MypaT c rapnoM H3a JaHHwapa, a pe3epBa noA 6pAOM Ma3rHTOM. LUaTop MypaTOB je 6ho
Ha zieBOJ o6a/iH r/iaAHe BoAe noA Ma3rHTOM. FIpBO
craHê 6oja je H3r/ieAaA0 OBaKO. JIcbo TypcKO KpH/io
npe/ia3H Jla6. Cp6n hx AOMeKyjy. OropneHa 6HTKa Ha
.thhhjh ByKa-flpyroBau. JXpyro cTaê: Cp6w cy36HJajy
;ieBO TypcKO KpH/io, 6auajy ra Ha ueHTap h pe3epBy.
MypaT thhc Me^y TypuHMa noMeTenocT. Baja3HT c
pe3epBOM Koja je 6HAa koa Ta3H MecraHa H3 no;ba
Hanaâ Cp6e y 6ok. Oko ra3rf MecTaHa oropMeHa
6op6a. Ty HMa Mnoro rpo6oBa. Jl33ap Kpehe pe3epBy.
CpncKO zieBO KpH.no HeaKTHBHO. TypuH 3ao6H/ia3e cpncko Aecno KpH/io. MeTBpTo craibe: Pa36HjeH0 cpncKO
AecHO KpHAO 6nBa 6aMeH0 Ha ueHTap h pe3epRy, nacraje 36pKa, y kojoj TypuH onKO/baBajy Cp6e. FIoB/iaHH
ce B/iaTKO ByKOBwh h ByK BpaHKOBHh, kojh cy ce noKa3a;iH HaJBHiue neaKTHBHH. Ocra/iH Cp6H, onKo;beHH,
cbh rHHy (Flo pacnpaBH Job. MHiuKOBHha, KocoBCKa
6wTKa BeorpaA, 1890).
C Kocobom cy Be3aHe h Ha bbera ckohomckh ynyhene cycejHe kot.ihhc h npocTpane peine Ao/inne.
TaKBH cy, noMeBiUH c Jyra, CnpunHh, 3aTMM Toptba
M paBa ca BipouuH PibH/iaHOM h Jloiba MopaBa HAH
H3MopHHK; c Kocobom je y Be3H h npocrpaHa hobo6paCKa o6/iacr c MHoro6poJHHM TparoBHMa crapora pyAapcTBa. Oko npaBor lUHpuKor KocoBa cy na jana^y
HOBA CPBHJA
236
UpeHHua c JlanyuiHHKOM, a Ha ceBepo-HCTOKy npodpaHa JiancKa KoiviHHa hjih Jla6, y kojoj je niaBHO
MecTO noayjeBo; y ropH>eM Reny Jla6a je acyna BeâcHua, Koja ce y cnoMeHHuaivia 3Ba;ia nBpx;ia6; kor
Hac, h aKo 6e3 pa3/iora, 3a Jla6 ce OAOMahnno wvie Ma/io
Kocobo. Ha noaieTKy Bpe;m noMeHyTH h >Kyny OapH
Ko;iaiiiHH, o6;iacT npeTe>KHO cpncKor craHOBHHuiTBa,
Koja ce npyaca OAMax H3HaA MnTpoBHue na ro H3-
Bopa H6pa.
KocoBCKa 3eMJba no KpajeBHMa je BHine upBeHKacra, a no cpenHHH nenejbacTa, a oko ce/ia JlnBaê,
Kofcyxe, ra3H-MecTaHa h ro 6;iH3y rVio6o.a;epHHn.e je
upHHixa. 3eMJba je ponHa h MecrnMHue 6o;be po^n Ha
cyujH Hero Ha khiuh. HaJBHine ce ceje nineHHua, jenaM
h KyKypy3; pa>KH ce ceje HaJMan>e. KyKypy3a HMa BHine
Bpda, nao ujto cy ,,6p3aK M Jie6;ie6HJa" h kojiom6oh BejiHKH". 3a nmeHHuy h jeâM 3eMJby opy ruiyroM,
h to ABa nyTa jicth yrape, a y jeceH H3opy pa/ioM
h nocejy; 3a KyKypy3 3eMJby yrape y anpnny, a cejy
oko Cb. HHKOê npojieTH>er. flopezi Tora caae KpoM,
nHp, cejy kpomha (^yn) m jbyTHKy (nanpHKy). Jlp>Ke

flocra h CTOKe, HapoHHTO OBaija, 3aTHM KOHba h K03a.
Pipe 3040 roAHHa HMa^H cy kocobckh ceJbauH h
CBOje nâHHHe, Ha Koje cy ;ieTH h croKy H3roHH/iH, a;iH
y noc/ieafee BpeMe 36or apHayTCKor 3y;iyMa He Kpehy
je HHrAe H3 ceâ. Hirêâ Ra Kocobo Moace nocraTH
jeiiaH or Haj6o/t>HX BohapCKHX Kpajesa. Ha HbeMy ycneBa
CBaKOBpcHO Bohe, Kao Ha np. mjbHBe, ja6yKe h KpynjKe;
HMa no KpajeBHMa h rpoactja, a/w He ca3peBa Haj6oJbe.
BehH aeo 3eMjbe canHhbaBajy HHTJiyun. Hn(J)qHJe cy h
Cp6n h Ap6aHacH, caMO Ap6aHacH peTKO nâhajy arHH
RoxoRaK. Cp6n n.nahajy o6hmho arn neTBpTHHy, a np>KaBH êceTHHy. I~Iope;i Tora Cp6n cy Mopa^H n/iahaTH
h jeâH npocBeTHH RauaK, kojh je or npnjiHKe h3ho~
cho qeTpneceTH neo or CBera ceocKor npnxoâ. Or
Tora AaHKa cy H3Ap>KaBaHe Myc/iOMaHCKe uiKOJie, Kocobo je npaBa arpHKyjuypHa o6/iacr, jep oho aaje toflHKO >KHTa Ra MO>Ke HCXpaHHTH H CBOJe CTaHOBHHUJTBO
h Ra npeodaje 3a H3B03. Or ueÔKynHe kocobckc
K0C0BCKA cTAPA CfbWJA
257
nuieHHue caMo jeana MeTBpTHHa noTpoinn ce Ha KocoBy h oko^hhh, a tph MeTBpTHHe H3Be3y ce 3a Co/iyH.
Ce/ia KOCOBCKa 3ay3HMajy Maxo.M Be/iHKe npocropnje, jcp cBe Kyhe, HapoMHTO cpncKe HMajy Be/iHKe
npodpaHe aB-nnje, Koje 30By o6op". Bp/io Mecro TaKBa
ce/ia no oniuieM pacnopeay nyha c.iHMHa cy luyMa^HJckhm ce/iHMa a kocobckh o6opH oaroBapajy npocrpahhm inyMajiHJCKHM OKyhHHuaMa. y cbskom o6opy HMa
no BHine 3rpana; or h>hx je HaJBa>KHHJa Kvha h Tpemobh, y KOJHMa CTanyje nejhajx, a 3aTHM Ao/ia3C ocra/ie
3rpa>ae 3a CTOKy h 3a ocraBy.
BehHHa thx 3rpazia cy rpaêHe or nêTepa, 06/ienjbene cy 6/iaTOM, a noKpnBCHe c/iaMOM h/ih hepaMMaoM.
HajBa>KMHja h HajnpocTpaiiHJa 3rpana 30Be ce cpncKH
Kyha u a ap6aHaniKH iunHJa u y H>oj je onbuimeH ouaK
npn 3n,ay, kojh je n3Be,aeH y ^HMâK. y Kyhn ce Mecn,
KyBa h p>Ke cy/iOBH h xpaHa. y KyhH ce He cnaBa. Jbynw
cnaBajy y TpeMOBHMa". CBaKa Kyha HMa OHO/iHKOTpeMOBa ko/ihko HMa y n>oj 6paMHHX napoBa. ApHayTH
TpeM 30By n hnêp M y TpeMy He ropn BaTpa, y H>eMy
je pa36oj, KpeBeT,
caHnyun c orqjiom, ByHOM h koHonnôM. HMa rbq Bpcre KpoBeTa. Jcahh cy Ha seiMbH,
cadaBêHH or MeTHpn iiacKe Koje cy HcnyibeHe caaMOM,
a
h 30By ce w nocTe^>a
Hpyrn cy y3AHrHyTH or 3eM^>e,
h 30By ce n Tpoii>aK u CBaKa xceHa iipnai cBOje crBapn
y cbom TpcMy. CBaKa or hhx ,ao6Hje cBy ByHy h konon/by KO|a npnnazia ibeHoj (J)aMH/iH|H, h ca\ia je o6pahyjo. y hckhm KyhaMa HMa napowHTa 3rpaAa, Kojy
Cp6n 30By w co6a u a Ap6aHacn o/iaja u y co6h je
ouaK y KOMe ropn BaTpa, a oko ibera je khmohh mhhep\ na KOMe cnaBajy tocth h npHjaie/bn. IlopeA obhx
u
cy jouj OBe 3rpaAe
6a RBHna h/ih â/innK". y kojoj
M
ce ^P>kh cnp h m.icko, 3aTHM w aM6ap 3a >khto, ap"
u
3a bo/iobc, B TopHLUTe
h nojaTa" 3a OBixe. ApuayrcKe
Kyhe oko Jlan.i.tr Ce/ia h TpaMaHnue HMajy cKopo
hcth pacnopc/i y Kyhn h ABopnoiTy Kao h cpncKe,
caMO MCCTO npHJCMHe Kyhe HMajy MaxoM Ky.ie H napâKe. Kv/ie cy iiBOcnpaine, TBpjo 3H,iana 3/iaiba ca
Ma/iHM .ipo3opHMa h MHoro6pojnHM nyoiKapHHuaMa,
,
HOBA CPbHjA
23b
HapAaun
ce pa3;iHKyjy oa Ky:ia y TOMe ujto Ha ropHoeM cnpaTy HMajy npocTpaHe AOKeaTe.

PacnHTyjyhH ce o )KHBOTy Ap6aHaca h ApHayTauiay okojihhh npHLUTHHe, TpanaHHueH Jlanjber Ceâ,
nncau je A03Hao Aa ce ohh y AOMaheM >KHBOTy. y KapaKTepy h o6H iiaJHMa, 3HaTHO pa3JiHKyjy oa Cp6a npaBOGrcaBHHx. CKopo cbh Ap6aHacn tux KpajeBa Ap>Ke no
Tpn ao neT meHa, npeMa TOMe kojihko je ko 6oraT.
CBaKa )KeHa HMa CBOJy co6y h/ih hH;iep\ CBaKa paAH
3a CBOJy Aeuy, a CBe 3ajeAHHHKH 3a AOMahHHa CBaKa
oa HdHx tokh Aa 3a My>Ka HaMHHH ujto Jieniuy xajbHHy.
My>K }khbh ca CBaKOM Ha H3MeHHue no HeAeJby AaHa.
ApHayTKe Hoce AHMHJe, 6oje hoktc m Kocy. hfoHxoBO
3aHH\iaHDe ce cacTojn y OBOMe: iuHJy, Bp;io MHoro Be3y
h;ih iuapajy", Kao ujto Kaa<y kocobckc CpnKHtbe, yMejy
BeoMa ;ieno Aa TKajy, h to hn/iHMe h cyKHO. M/iat)a
yuena crapHJy 30Be jeHt)a", a CTapnja MJiai^y Hyca".
HecTO Mory Aa 6yAy h jbydoMopHe jeAHa Ha Apyry,
HapOMHTO aKO My>K y OAcny h;ih y qeiviy ApyroM
OABaja jeAHy oa Apyre. MecTO ce AemaBa Aa ce h noCBaAe, h y TaKBHM cjiyiajeBHMa My>K hx noMHpH 6a-
THHaMa.
Cp6H
cejbauH H3 TpaqaHHue h H3 JIanjber Ce;ia cy

mh tbpah;ih Aa ce Ap6aHacH y >KHBOTy h o6HHaJHMa
Bp/io MHoro pa3/iHKyjy oa Cp6a npaBOcnaBHHX. Ochm
MHoroM<eHCTBa h ohhx nojaBa Koje cy y Be3H c TaKHM
nopOAHHHHM >KHBOTOM, HCTaKJIH Cy MH HeKOJlHKO pa3^HKa, oa kojhx cy HaJBa<HHje obc KaA yMpe jeAaH
6paT, Apyrn 6paT MO}Ke Aa y3Me tberoBy yAOBHuy. KaA
ce eHe 3a AeBOJKy, Aajy feeHOM ouy MHoro HOBaua.
CaMOM npoBOAauHJH Aajy ao neT TypcKHX Jinpa. CBaA6eHH cy hm o6imaJH jeAHOcraBHH. y HdHx hc HAe MâAOHceHDa y CBaTOBe Kao koa kocobckhx Cp6a. y h>hx
HeMa hh KyMaHH crapejKa u Hcto TaKO Ha CBaA^y HeMa
M
HH TOM HH CBHpKa". MtfM M/iaAy AOHecy MâAO>KeHoH,
a
AOâ3H MâAHH
cbh CBaTOBH HAy Kyhu. y npBHH
OTau ca Tpn HOBeKa h OABeAy je Kyhn. I~Ioc;ie MOMne
HAe y Ta36nHy ca hcko^hko JbyAH, h noHece CBaKo]
>KeHCKOj Ha Aap no jeAHy ujaMHJy. HeMajy npa^HHKa
ochm BajpaMa h neTKa, na h h>hx CBeTKyjy caMO ao
.
KOCOBCKA CTAPA CPBHJA
239
(noane). 36or Tora hm ce Cp6n no;xcMeBajy:

BajpaMHiiiTe
ro n/iaaHHUJTe, oa n/iaanHiuTe Ha 6yfbHn
ujTe". Bp.io bc/ihkh êo ApGaHaca cy mhbmhjc h >KHBe Ha
3eM/baMa c kojhx cy OTepa/in Cp6e. CKopo cy cbh
HMa^H Te 3eM;be Kao CBOje, na cy hx npoaajiH h nonw^H. HouHHJe cy Ha hcthm ibHBaiwa nocra/iH qHBMHj'e
npHiHTHHCKHx ara h 6eroBa, c kojhx cy hm Bp;io c/ia6
n
n/ia;iHe
AOXOâK AaBa^H.
H3 OBora
ce bh;j.h jxa y >KHBOTy kocobckhx Ap6aHaca HMa Bp/io mhoto TypcKora h onuner Myc/ioMaHCKor. V\3rj\ena &a cy mhoto ;ipyKMHJH /ipeHHMKH Ap-
Hajnpe.y ibHXOBy >KHBOTy HMa mhoto xpniuhaHCKHX h cpncKHX o6HMaja. MiMeJjy thx heMO ncraKHyTH obc CBana apHayicna Kyha y UpcHHixn HMa rycne, h CKopo cbh 3Hajy ry^HTH y3 ryc/ie h cBHpaTH y
raJAe. Hpyro, c/iaBe Ba;ubH-;iaH, npaBe Bazube Bene,
3acTnpy cnaMy, h Ha Bo>KHh Bpuje y BohibaKy h koji
croKe Hde o6HMaje Kao h Cp6n npaBoc.iaBHH. Hcto
TaKO c/iaBe h 'ByprjeB-aaH. ApHayTaniKe >KeHe H3 oko^Hue HcBHMa AO/ia3e y /leBH^Ky upKBy H3Met)y Ycnpca
h Toypl)eB-aaHa h CBana zierHe nopea rpo6a Cb. JaHHhnja, a naa o;ie. CBana ra ziapnBa. ricpeii Tora cbh
c/iaBe Mn.iouja OGn.inha Kao jynaKa h CBor 3eM^>aKa.
Bp;io MHoro ibHx, HapoMHTO no Mctoxhjh, 3a^n>Ka.nH
cy CBOj'a CTapa HMCHa, Kao: GrcnaHOBH^H, rionnhn,
BoJKOBHhH, JleKHhH, ToJKOBHhH, CTOJKOBHhH H iip>TH.
3a JlpcHHMane V. CiaHKOBHh Kawe jya cy hohochth,
rocro/by6HBH h npaBH jyHaun. CBOje i/iaBapc noujTyjy
h cnyujajy. H ohh Kao h xcpucronaMKH h GocancKH
Myc^HMaHH Bp/io MHoro ucHe o6HHaj LUHUjanor KyMCTBa. riope^ Tora ohh noujTyjy h qyBajy cae CTape
cpncKC 3a;iy>K6HHe, upKBc h ManacTHpc. Mhoth naMTe h
crapy CBOiy c.nauy. Pauynajy no npaBOc/iaBHHM npa3HHUHMa. MaxoM HMajy jcany >KCny, Koja ce 3a pa3/inny on TypKHH>a h oa apHayTCKnx >KCHa oko TpawanHiie hc Kpnje on rocTa, napîmo ano ra neMa ko
^p\TH .aoMCKaTH. y onujTe oOViaJH Cp6a Apna)Tauja
v.ii' ro
cc paiîHKyjy o^ apGanauikHX oGiiMaja. Omh hc
roBope jejuaKo, ne ncnajy jcaHaKO h hc MHCie jeaHaKO". H3Meaa npcMa CBCMy aa cy obh ApHayTaiun no
HayiatiJH.
240
HOBA CPBHJA
CBOJMM 06HHaJHMa H no CBOJHM HaBHKaMa MHOro6^H)KH

Cp6HMa H3 3ana^HHX cpncKHx o6;iacTH h ruieMeHHMa
TopFbe Ap6aHnje Koja cy nocra;ia MemaBHHOM H3Me^y
Cp6a h Ap6aHaca. TaKO, Ha npHMep, y h>hx ce no6paTHMCTBO CMaTpa KaO KpBHO cpoactbo, a KpBHa
ocBeia ce BpujHâ Haj6pH>KjbHBHJe.
O H3ivie;iy ce/ia h Kyha Cp6a ApHayTauia y Zlpehhuh Haj6ojby cjiHKy nao je V. Toaop CraHKOBHh, kojh
je Ayro BpeMeHa mHBeo y obhm KpajeBHMa, h KaKO H3nieAa, yMeo je na deKHe Ao6pe Bese ca Cp6nMa ApHayiaiiJHMa. J-bnxoBa ce;ia h HdHxob )khbot y JXpenrnxn
onHcyje OBaKo:
ApHayTaiuH ce y onrirre 3aHHMajy 3eMA>OAejiCTBOM H CTOHapCTBOM, a y IlOApHMJby JOUI H BHHOrpa/iapcTBOM, h CBe CBOje noc/ioBe Bpiue MapjbHBO.
BohapcTBO hm hac oco6hto oa pyê. H y n;iaHHHH h
no nyieBHMa rue roA Ha^y KaKBy AHBJbaKy KpyujKy
hah ja6yKy, KaêMe je. y flpeHHUH caM BHAeo nyHO
Ao6po ypeljeunx BohitaKa. Kyhe cy hm o6hhho Ha
oue^HOM h 3/ipaBOM 3eMJbHuiTy h MaxoM 6;iH3y KaKBe
pene hah H3Bopa ca Ao6poM boaom. y Kyhn h y abopniiJTy hm je Ba3na ype^HOCT h npuMepHa HHCTOTa.
Pyxo hm
paMHAOM
Kyhe cy hm noKpHBeHe heKaMeHHM njionaMa, a HeMa hh neT oa

cto jxa cy nonpHBeHe cJiaMOM h kpobhhom. Oa ocra;ihx Kyha cy jenna TpehHHa 03HAane oa hepnnna, a
ABe TpehHHe cy caMe Kyjie, noAHrnyTe oa KaMeHa h
Ma^Tepa, HapoMHTO y nehcKoj h JjaKOBHHKOJ HaxHJH.
Ky/ie cy hm ABoenpaTHe, a HMa hx h TpocnpaTHHX.
Ha HeKHMa oa thx Ky;ia HMajy noAHrHyre h CTpanope,
TaKohe oa TBpAor MaTepwa/ia, noje cy hm, Kao uito cy
hm h Kyê, ca CBHj'y CTpaHa ca Ma3raAaMa, Kpo3 noje
nyuajy y OA6paHH. KaA ko naAHe Ha KpB, oh ca Te
CTpa>Kape na3H Aa My ce ocbcthhk c Koje cipaHe He
6h npHKpao. Hh HajcHpOMauiHHJer ApHayTaiua abopniiJTe HHJe 6e3 Hy>KHHKa, h ao OBora HMa Ma h Hajje TaKolê hhcto.
h;ih
y3aHHj'a KaûpMa. >KHBe y 3a,apy3H h HMajy Aocra Bejiukq 3apyre. 3aApy>KHe nopoAHue HMajy oko Ky;ie
hnêpe (Bajaie), y KojHMa CBaKH y cbojoj co6h ca cbojom
>KeHOM h chthom
acuom HohHBajy.
OApac;iHJa
Aeija
241
HMajy CBOjy 3aje;iHHMKy co6y y Ky;iH. KaKO y Ky;iH,

TaKO h y o6hmhhm KyhaMa HMajy no je#Hy onBOJeHy
co6y cnpeMJbeny 3a rocre. Co6a rocrHHCKa je ouaK;iHj'a. Ho caMora ouaKa je iiOMahHHCKO Mecro, Koje je
3acTpTo CHua/ieTOM h.ih nycraKHjoM or obhobckc Koa<e.
Ty My je h ueo npn6op 3a Kacj)y.
ZIoMahHH y 3apy3H kojh ynpaB/ba ue/iOKynHHM
HMatt>eM, a HapoMHTO kojh bpujh npoijajy npoH3BOjxa
h BpiuH noTpe6He Ha6aBKe 3a Kyhy, He Mopa 6hth h
HajcTapHJH y Kyhn, a/in ce oh nnaK ca crapnJHM or
ce6e AoroBapa h cnopa3yMeBa. Ciapau ceRH y3 ouaK,
Te AOweKyje h ncnpaha roore, HaiiMeâ crony, a no
kojh CTapau h Hae ca ctokom Ha naiuy. y 3a;*py>KHHM
KyhaMa h >KeHe paie CBOJe KyheBHe noaiOBe, Kao: Meniere x;ie6a, KyBan>e jeâ, MeujeH>e nma h t. r., CBe
no pe;iy Ha Heê^y iiaHa. CBaKoj >KeHH y Kyhn Mopa
Aohn pea, H3y3HMa)yhn 6aMnue. H3 Tora je pejxa ocno6ot)eHa caMO OHa Koja ocrapH h Koja uoBeae cHaxy
3a CHHa, Te je CHaxa 3aMeHH. Ho aKO CBeKpBa 3aBOiH
CHaxy, OHa je noMa>Ke y noc/iOBHMa Kan, je CHaxnH peA.
HeBOJKe y 3a;ipy3H He Mory 6mth pe^yiue. KaA je Koja
>KeHa y apyroM cranky, ocao6uêHa je TeujKora noc/ia.
MecTO ce AeujaBa Ra ce y Kyhn no 3 4 nyia 3a naH
HaMeujTa Tpne3apnja 3a rocTe. 3a o6hmhc ce rocre
h3hoch Ha Tpne3y oho ujto h AOMahn jeay, a to je
2
3 napqeTa cwpa ca cmokom, 23 r. iaBHue upHora
/lyna h Bpyha npoja, h HaJ3aA jeâH nyH MaHaK yapo6^>eHe npoje y M-ieKy. Obo iincy tocth kojh HapoMHTO
AoJ)y y rocre, Beh cy to nyTHHUH kojh, Hiiylin 3a Koje
apyro ce/io h/ih Bapouj, CBpaTe na pynaK h/ih npe
HohnujTe, na Ma th tocth 6h/ih h Heno3HaTH yKyhaHHMa y Mnjy Kyhy no/iaie. 3a 3HaK jia he ce aohcth
pynaK h/ih Benepa, aoMahHii he no3BaTH toctc r?l nepy
pyKe, 3aiiJTa je jeaan or ynyhaHa Beh npHHeo Boay,
apwehn y .neBOJ /leren, a y aecHoj pyuw Kpqar ca boAOm, a npeKo paMeHa y6pyc, Te cBaKOM rucry naj .iereHOM no/mje pyKe flu3HBaibe aoMahnna aa tocth
nepy pyKe, no3HBan,e je Aa tocth ceAHy 3a Tpne3y.
CBaKH HMa CBojy MapaMy oko nojaca, h mhm ce^He 3a
Tpne3y, MapaMy pacnpocTpe npeKo cnyTa. HoMahHH
HOBA CPEHJA
HOBA CPBHJA
242
he cecTH Ha hcth Kpaj h pehn: H3BO/iTe." Pyne nepy

h nocjie jejia. HHKa^ Hehe CBe nojedH hhth Tpara on
npjie6a ocTaBHTH. KaKO ce ko Hajeiie, oh bpxobhm
CTHj'y ÔTaKHe HBHixy Tpne3e, na CBOj'a ycTa, h peKHe:
Japa6H myhyp", ujto 3HanH: Ca3naTe;by CBera, tq6u
HeKa je xsaâ Toct ce Hehe hhioa a nowajiH na je
pâBO yroiuheH, ho ce XBa^H ca penHMa Ka(J)e, nyBaHa
h Myxa6eTa OABHiue, a cojjh h xjie6a kojihko je Bor
#ao. ApHayTamH HHKora He nacre bhhom h paKHJOM.
y MecTO Tora nacre .nyBaHOM h Ka(J)OM. Hehe hh cbojHMa jxa HMeHyjy jejia Koja cy y rocTHMa jejiH. npeMa
rocTHMa h âHHMa je roinheifce. 3a Kyaia, npnjaTejba,
potjaKa h no6paTHMa, rowjiu ohh HaponHTO hjih c/iyqaJHO, KOJbe ce jartbe, jape, OBaH h t.a-, a Ha 6p3y
pyKy Koja KOKOuiKa hjih nHTa, a y AaHHMa CBa;i6e,
CTpH>K6e h t.#., HeMa H3y3eTKa: cbh ce tocth 6e3 pa3^nKe nonacTe. JXoKJie cy tocth 3a co(})poM, jeaaH he
on aoMahnx MyiHKapaua CTOjaTH nopefl co(J)pe, ^p>KehH
y aecHOJ pyuH can/iaK (ruiexaHa nama) ca nnjahoM
bohom. Totobo y CBaKoj Kyhw Hwa cnpeMJbeHHX 100,
200 h 300 Kopa neneHHX 3a nHTe, na Ka^ toct aoije,
nHTa je 3a nac roTOBa. ApuayTainH, Kao h Cp6n npaBOcâBHH, HaJBHme je;iy KyKypy3HH x;ie6, neMeH y
upenyjbH. nineHHHHH xjie6 peTKO jejiy. rimeHHiry npoAajy, a ocTaBe ohojihko kojihko Tpeoa 3a ceMe h Meineibe nHTa. XpaHa hm je CBaKozmeBHa, npeno uejiora
i
jieTa,
cnp,
upHH
Jiyn,
JUanyTa
M/ieKO h Bpyha npoja.
HcaejbHO npoivieHa y xpaHH THMe uito 3a Benepy

KOJby KOKonJKe h;ih Mece nHTe On HOBeM6pa na no anpHJia, npeKO uejie 3HMe, xpaHe ce nacTpMOM ca Kynycom. riacrpMy cnpeMH CBana Kyha, npeMa 3a,n,py>KHOM
h hmobhom crafty, 100, 200 h 300 ona, Kan KOJby 6paBe
3a nacTpMy, HHHe ro36y. Taâ ce 3a rocre o6hhho
cnpeMH Meco Ha nnpHHqy. HajcnpOMaujHHJH ApHayTaui,
Kan 6yae K.aao 6paBa 3a nacTpMy, HMa 2 3, a 6orathjh no 10 h 20 rocTHJy 3a BenepoM.
y nyhn ce npn pywKy h Benepn ACJie Ha Tpn
Tpne3e. ripBO ce nocraBH 3a iieiry, nocjie 3a rocre, a
aKO rocTHJy HeMa, OHAa cbojhm jby^HMa. >KeHe je,ay
najnocne, CBe yjeflHO^H ca pe^yuioM h ca 6a iHH0M,
je
KOCOBCKA CTAPA CPI.HJA

CTBap na ApHayTauj OTepa cBOJy >KeHy,
noK Met^yTHM Kon npaBHx TypaKa o6n ma je CTBap
âHac OTcpaTH je;uiy, a noc/ie hcko/ihko jaHa h zipy-
PeTKa
je
ry >Kehy."
H3 OBora cBera ce bhah na ^peHHHKH ApnayTaujH

HMaiy CKopo Here o6HMnje h >KHBe hcthm >khbotom Kao
h
Cp6n npaBOC/iaBHH. y TOMe noivieay ohh cy MHoro

Cp6HMa ho Ap6anacHMa. FIopeiiTora ohh HMajy
6/iH>Ke
HapOMHTH CMHCaO 33 3CM,1.0paAHHHKH >KHBOT, HapOMHTO

3a BohapcTBO, Hera y npaBHM ap6aHaujKHM 06/iacTHMa
CKOpO HHKaKO HeMa.
CupuHuhcm /Kyiia je ycKa, ayrawKa h BHCOKa

n/iannncKa KoiviHHa noa Jby6oTHHOM, Koja je ca cbhx
crpaHa orpat}ena n/iaHHHaMa h HMa TeLmbe Be3e h c
Kocobom h ca Cpe;iCKOM >KynoM koa fIpH3peHa. Hho
Te kot.ihhc bbabsh ce HaJBehHM cbojhm nejioM Ha aechoj crrpnHH JleneHua. y toj n/iaHHHCKOJ KopyTHHH
HMa CBera ccaaMHaecr cc/ia, o.a kojhx je aeBeT mhcto
cpncKHX, ce;iaM ap6aHaujKnx, a je/iHO je no no/ia cpncko h ap6aHamKO. Ap6aHacn BehnHOM >KHBe yôvbeM,
a Cp6n y ropfbeM jxe/iy CnpHHnha. CpncKa ce/ia cy
Beha h 36HJeHHJa on apoaHaujKHX. Cfla ce nanase y
3e/ieHH/iy on Boha h apBcha, h bcHmhom cy OKpyr/ia
o6.iHKa. Kyhe cy Man>e h Heyr/ie;uiHJe or ap6aHaujKHx,
a/in cy 3HAaHe, o6/ien;beHc, 11 HHKajx Hncy OKpeneHe.
CBaKH Bop
je 3Hom orpaljCH, TaKO na ce Kpo3 ce/io

Kao H3Me!)y rpaiicKHX n/iaTHa npo;ia3H. Ap6aHaujKe
Kyhe cy MaxoM Be/iHKe, on Ka.viena 3HnaHe, onpeMeHe,
hepaMHAOM noKpHBCHc, h HMajy MHoro ouaKa. CBaKa
ap6aHaniKa Kyha HMa nap/UK, kojh je na/iHK Ha ahBanaiiy Kon 6ocaHCKHX Myc/iHMana. KaujTO cy rpyne
on Kyha orpaêHe npaBHM 3HAOM, na H3Meâjy Kao
navitHKe.
I.iaBiio
3aHHManc
CupnnHhana
je
CTonapcrBO.
C o6e crpane
/leneHixa je npaBa n.iaiiHHCKa o6.iacT ca

uiyMaMa, H3 Koje aorone Ha canKaMa .lpBa h rpaljy. V
CnpHHHhy HMajy McrnpH MajiiaHa H3 kojhx ce Ba^H
xpoM. CraHOBHuajTBo ce ne oa/iHKyje ocoGhthm 3npaB-
HH MBpCTHHOM. HMa MHoro ryUJaBOCTH, HapOMHTO

Mefyy Ap6aHacHMa. HuTepecaHTno je na cy cbh Cp6n
JhZbl
244
HOBA CPBHJA
Tep3HJe. C thm 3aHaTOM nyTyjy no

Kocosy, 7Ia6y, FIo/ipHMy H,CKonci<oj oko/ihhh na Kpoje
h iDHJy. y noc/ieaFbe BpeMe Hy mhoto y ryp6eoyK,
HapoMHTO cy hui^
y ByrapcKy h PyMVHHjy. y HajHOBHJe BpeMe wjxy MHoro y AiwepHKy. FIoa yTHuajeM
a
AiviepHKaHaiia
noMHH>e ce Men>aTH HaMHH >KHBOTa H
>KHBOTHe noTpe6e noweê cy ce MeâiM. y Chphhhrckoj }KynH HMa êTpHaecT upnaBa, oa kojhx cy ceâM
y pa?.Ba;inHaMa.
CHpHhaHH zo6pe
b).
MeTOXHJa
okojihhom FIpHSpeHa.
MeTOXHJa h npH3peHCKa o6jiacrnpeiiCTaBJbajyc;iHB

Bejiora JlpHMa ao iteroBHx ciaBa ca UpHHM JIpmmom.
To je npocTpaHa TeKTOHCKa KoiviHHa, noja je or ocra;ihx bhcokhm njiaHHHaMa orpaijeHa
Ha ceBepy Hajnpe
^.eÔBH npoK-neTHJa, Ko>KHDe;i c BornheBHuoM h KonpHBHHKOM, 3aTHM MoKpa ropa, Koja npecTaje hh 3ariaay or MmpoBHue; Ha jyry je orpaJjeHa LLIap Flnahhhom; oil KocoBa je OABajajy uume n/iaHHHe ca mhohim
npeBojHMa: MnMaBnua, ro/ieui h UpHOJbeBa
Ha 3anajiy oko ApHMCKe K.nHcype 3arpat]yiy je Mnp/iHTCKe
nâHHHe. yHyTpa, y kotvihhh, H3n>Ky ce ô 3HaTHe
BHCHHe ocaMjbeHe ocTpBacTe n/iaHHHe: JXemwKa Fl/iaHHHa. MHâHOBaU, H HapOHHTO riaiHTpHK H KopHTHHK
y 6/ih3hhh Ilpn3peHa.
MeToxnjoM ce 30Be ceBepHH jieo TeKTOHCKe kot/iHHe, H3BopHiHHa McneHKa Bejior ,HpHMa, HcnoA Monpe
h KonpHBHHKa jxo npea TbaKOBHuy, h y fboj je nnaBHO
MecTo rieh. JXej\n ce Ha neinpH napTHJe. CeBepHH 6pe>Ky^>KacTH aeo Hcno Cry,aeHHm<e FIâHHHe, >K;be6a
h MoKpe, 30Be ce FIoArop; rptkh ue^y o6;iacT or
IlehH ro cejia PyaHHKa y nojoj HMa oko 60 cejia, h
Mei)y H>HMa Hctok HMa CKopo ueHTpa^HH no;io)Kaj.
Hctohhh eo MeTOXHj'e 30Be ce flptKopynjbe h 3aXBaTa Kpaj Ha .neBoj cipaHH Be/ior JlpHMa. or Uorropa na no pa3Boâ HjMetjy Mnpyme h T/iHhe. y rviaBHOMe c;ihb pene DiHHe, npHTone Be;ior UpHMa. JX^k
cy o6e OBe o6;iacTH 6pe>Ky;bKacTe h .aho hm cacraBJbeHO OR CflaTKOBOflHHX HeoreHHX H CTapHJHX deHa,
:
KOCOB
PAPA CPBHJA
1*0
jyro3anaiiHO or h>hx Hacraje npaBa aJiyBHja^na h rh-
paBaH MeioxHJe, H3Met~jy nehaHCKe BHcrpHue

h UpHMa, h 30Be ce FIpeKO Boae, h y *boj HMa oko
25 ce/ia. 3ananHH rqo oko AewaHCKe BHcrpHue 30Be
ce PeKa, h y fby ce panyHajy oko 45 ce/ia. PaBaH h
no6plja oko TbaKOBHue, 3aTHM 6pe>Ky/bKacTa o6;iacT
Ha AecHoj dpaHH UpHMa, CBe ro yiuha BHcrpHue y
ZlpHM, 30Be ce Xac, h TbaKOBHua je iberoBO nnaBHO MecTO.
;iyBwja/iHa
y npH3pencKoj o6.nacTH ce no Hapo^HOJ homchKâTypH H3Bajajy RBa Kpaja. BpiiCKa o6;iacT Ha /ieboj dpaHn ZIpHMa ro nâHHHe MH.iaHOBua h Bpxa
Ocrpo3y6a 30Be ce rioflpHMa, h y HdOj je HaJBehe Hacejbe
OpaxoBau; OHa iip>KH .ao nyia kojh bo;ih or Upu3peHa npeKO Zlyâ 3a Kocobo. HecHO or OBora nyTa
ro Koua Ba/iKaHa h UpHOJbeBe HacTaje npnapeHCKH
noarop, kojh Tpaje CBe ro RyjbCKe npece^HHe Ha
UpHOêBH
Oko.iuhcl npu3pena.
y oko-hhhh FIpH3peHa
canyBa/iH cy ce CBe ro aaHac Ha3HBH mhothx cpeaBbeBeKOBHHX cpncKHx >Kyna. flocanaiinba opraHH3au.HJa
ap6aHaujKHX h apnayTaiuKHx 6aujH6o3yKa y okojihhh
IlpH3peHa noaypa;ia ce y r/iaBHOM c npocTpaHCTBOM
cpeziibeBeKOBHHX >Kyna. TaKO, Ha npuMep, cyxopewKH
6ajpaK 3ay3HMa 06/iacr ciape wyne FIoAropa, ;by6HHckh 6ajpaK 3ay3H\ia >Kyny CpeacKy, a no/iyiiJKH 6ajpaK 3ay3HMa CTapy >Kyny BpcKOBO, MHje ce H\ie y aaHainH>eM cranoBHHLUTBy H3ry6Hô. Crapy o6.nacT floApHMjbe h/ih AaHaiutby Ilo^pHMy, Koja 3ay3HMa 06/iacr
H3Mt^y Be/ior ilpHwa, UpHor ilpHMa h npH3peHCke
BncrpHue, 3ay:iHMajy 6ajpaun no;iyujKH. Ma/mxowcKH h
u
ocrpo3yriCKH. Crapn naTkOBCKH r\ ..ii> koj ISakOBHue
na3HBoa ce xacKHM 6ajpaKOM, a Ono.bCKa >Kyna ono/bckhm 6ajpaKOM. H3 OBora ce bhah rz H.via hckc Be3e
H3Mehv pacnopeaa h opraHH3au.Hje HauiHX cpeaibeBekobhhx >nyna haouhhjhx apHayTanjKHx6ajpaKa. Ta Be3a
ip>KaHa THMe ujto je 3naTaH Aeo dapor cpncKur
je
CTaHOBHHiuTBa npcujao na Mc/iaM h noap6aHacHO ce.
CBe OBe wyne nyiie cy ocTaTaKa na cpe^JbCBeKOBHe cpncKe CTapHHe, a CKopo CBa ce/ia cy nocrojaâ
h y cpeAêM bck)\ caMo c tom pa3/iHK0M ujto cy oHâ
246
HOBA CPEHJA
Cp6n npaBOCAaBHH, a AaHac BehnHy

HHHe ApHayTamH h Ap6aHacH.
y FIo^pHMJby HaJ3HaMeHHTHJa cy ce.ia BeJiHKa
XoHa h OpaxoBau. Ta cejia, HaponHTO OpaxoBau, no
cbom cnrjbtt>eM H3rvieAy namme Ha Ma;ie BaponiHue.
I-bHxoBa OKO^HHa npencTaBJba Haj6ojby BHHorpaAapcKy
odjiacT y ueAOJ mctoxhjckoj kotjihhh. OraHOBHHUH Be^HKe Xone cy y BehHHH Cp6n npaBOCAaBHH, kojh cy
ce yBeK onJiuKOBami OTpecHTOinhy h jyHaiiiTBOM. dahobhhuh cejia OpaxoBa npe^CTaBJbajy BeoMa BpeAaH
HapoA. 3a jbhx Ka>Ke pycKH KOH3yji JacTpe6oB Aa cy
nopeKÔM aocejbeHHUH oa KpajbeBa h HaqKa y AocaAaumoj CpdHJH, oa nyjia. cy ce nocemiJiu 3a BpeMe
Kapal)opt)eBa yciaHKa. y OpaxoBuy nehcKH MaHacTHp
HMa CBOJe BHHorpa,ne. Cp6H npaBOCAaBHH HMajy CBOjy
upKBy, a ApHayTauiH CBOje Tpn uaMHJe.
06;iacT FIoArop 3ay3HMa cjihb Cyxe PeKe, Koja
Hadaje H3 noTOKa kojh ce cadojy Ha 3anaAHHM naAHtfaMa nâHHHe Xoua BajiKaHa. Ta o6Aacr, HapoHHTO
H>eHH hh>kh achobh, He OAAHKyjy ce 3ApaB0M kjihmom,
36or Tora CTaHOBHHiHTBO je He3ApaBO, h c/iadnje ce
mho>kh. CaAa y HH3HHaMa )KHBe ApHayTauiH h Ap6anacH, kojh cy Cp6e noiepa^H H3 jbhxobhx cejia, h obh
cy Mopa/w Aa ce nacejbaBajy Ha CBoje HerAauitbe KaTyHe. A/ih cy h Ty MOpa;w Aa npHMajy HCJiaM. JeAHO
oa HajBHUJHx ceaa je Ma;iHqeBO, Koje ce Ha;ia3H or
npHAHKe Ha bhchhh or 1000 m. To je ceAO 3HaMeHHTO
36or Tora ihto tteroBH craHOBHHUH npnnoBeAajy rs.
hhjh
je oâTJie nopeKAOM nopOAHua KapaôpêBHha,
je npaRQR no6erao 36or Tora ihto je y6HO qeTnpn
TypqHa. Tpo6oBH thx Typana h AaHac cy canyBaHH.
Cpe^cna >Kyna or ocraAHX o^HKyje ce thm uito
je OHa HaJBHUie caqyBaâ cpncKH KapaKTep. CKopo noÔBHHy HreHa CTaHOBHHuiTBa ca^HibaBajy Cp6n npaBOCAaBHH, a ocra;iH Aeo canHHbaBajy Cp6n Myc/iOMaHH,
kojh cy canyBa^H cboj cpncKH je3HK. FIpBO ce noqejio
TypHHTH ceAO Jby6HHbe, Koje ce Ha;ia3H noA mapCKHM
BpXOM Ko6HAHUOM, HHJe Ce CTaHOBHHUITBO HCTypHHAO
oa npHAHKe npe 170 roAHHa. y ceAy XlpajHHhHMa MycÔMaHH cy CBe ao paTa 1875 CAaBH;m CBOjy CAaBy,
y ltHMa >KHBe;iH
KynH.m cy npoc(ope h
TyprHJy. Taaa hm TypuH Hapenniue jya
jiomhjih Ko/ian,
247
hiii^h
Ha
jih-
ce Mopajy jlo>KaTH jcAHe Bepe, a He hbq. W Cpe/iCKOj /KynH HMa

jxeBer upnaBa, Koje cy MaxoM BeoMa CTape. y cpeafoeM
BeKy Cpe^CKa >Kyna^. 6n;ia je Bp/io 6oraia luyMOM,
Me^y kojom je 6h/io h MHoro neTHHapa. LUp HyinaH
je CTaHOBHHUHMa CpeacKe )Kyne 6ho
daBHO y ^y>KHOCT jxa MaHacTHp cb. ApxaHre.ia CHa6,ueBajy jiyqeM.
Caâ y CpeacKOj HMa caMO Ma/wx ociaTaKa on HerjauiH>HX qeTHHapa. 3a BpeMe TypaKa 6aBH/iH cy ce
npaB-JbefoeM yr/ba, MHMe cy MHory ujyMy ynponacmriH.
06âcT ropa Haâ3H ce H3Me^y LLlape h KopHTHHKa. HMa o6;ihk BHCOKe nâHHHCKe KopyTHHe, Koja
je ay6oKHM 30/iHHaMa peKa n/iaBe, Bpo;xcKe, PacTe.iHiiiKe h HdHxobhx npHTOKa HceneHa y BHiue KOMaâ.
Kao y MHorHM n/iaHHHCKHM o6;iacTHMa, ce/ia OBê 6e>Ke
H3 ,ay6oKHX japyra H netby ce Ha OTBopeHHJa Mecia.
H no cbom n/iaHHHCKOM KapaKTepy h no KaKBohn 3eMjbHima, OBa o6;iacT npeAHCTHHHpaHa je #a nociaHe ctowapcKa o&iacr. Joui no npe;i cpncKo-TypcKH paT on
1875 TopaHH cy HMa^H Heo6HMHO Be/iHKa cra;ia, h 6abh/ih cy ce HCK;byMHBO CTOMapcTBOM. npHMajy na je
6h.io BHUje AOMahHHa kojh cy HMa;iH npeKO 5000 OBaua.
Ha 3hmobhhk Hiii/iH cy Ha o6a:ie ErejCKor Mopa, y
TpaKHJy, na naK h y Ma/iy A3HJy. Hooicai^hx TpH^cceT roAHHa nowe^H cy ZbyM/baHH cbc BHine njbaMKaTH,
h TopanH cy Mopa.iH CBe BHiue HanyimaTH cronapcTBO
h OAaBaTH ce ryp6eT.ayKy. y ryp6eT/iyK way no cBHMa
6a/iKancKHM 3eM;baMa, HapoMHTo no Cp6nJH, Bochh h
XepueroBHHH, ByrapcKOJ H PyMyHHJH, h no Ma.noj
A3hjh. CKopo HaJBehn ;ieo 6o3aMHJa, a;iBeuHJa h ca;ie6uHJa y 6a;iKaHCKHM 3eMJbaMa canHibaBajy ohh.
TopaHH npejcraB/bajy cpncKO Myc/iHMaHCKO crahobhhlutbo Koje ce on OKO/inor ap6anaujKor h apuayTaujKor CTaHOBHHiiJTBa 3naTHO pa:^HKyje h no je3HKy
h no ucnoj ayxoBHOj Ky/nypn. y Topn i!>ia 27 ccaa,
\ieJ)y KojHMa je HaJBehe ce/io Bpo.i. Cbh roBope cpnckh. Ha Hc/iaM cy noMCHH npe/ia3HTH jouj y 16 BeKy,
na cy ce noTnyno HcrypHH/iH y 19-om BeKy. noc/iezui>a
xpunihaHCKa ziywa yMp/ia je y Bpo>iy roflHiie lb
248
HOBA CPBHJA
f-bHX0Be CTape upKBe cpyniHO je 3y6 BpeMeHa. Ajih ce

h aaHac nouiTyjy MecTa rê cy OHe 6mie. O hckhm
npa3HHUHMa CKynjbajy ce koa cbojhx 6hbuihx upKaBa.
nopca Tora na/ie 6a;ubaKe h c/iaBe Hene cpncKe npa3hhkc HapOHHTO oiaBe "BypêB-ân, Kao ihto ra cnaBe
CBe OKO/me o6jiacTH, h cpncKe h ap6aHatuKe. Ha TbypijeB-naH npHpeJ)yjy ce MHore Hrpe, HapoMHTO pBafte.
ZlaHac ce Ta pBatta npHpeijyiy Ha âH CBa^6e, h kzji
ce iiena o6pe3yjy (cyHeTe). U,ejia ce/ia je^Hor ncror
#aHa Bpiue CBa.a.6e h o6pe3yjy MymKy aeny. TopaHH
Hrpajy kojio hcto Kao h cejbPUH H3 CHpHHHhcKe h
CpeacKe >Kyne. Ajih no.a yTHuajeM xoua >KeHCKe He
yqecTByjy y thm KOJiHMa. Ba)KHo je to ujto ohh He nodajy Ap6aHacH Kao ujto cy nocrajiH MyoiOMaHH Cp6n
H3 Apymx o6jiacrH CTape Cp6H]'e. Ajih ce ona)Ka aa
cy ce noqe/ia noapHayhHBaTH OHa ceJia Koja ce Hajia3e
Ha rpaHHUH npeivia JbyMH. HapoHHTO Jieno cpncKH roBope H>HxoBe êHe. MyniKapuH, nayhn no ryp6eTjiyKy
h MemajyhH ce c Ap6aHacHMa, noqejiH cy /ia KBape cboj
cpncKH je3HK. y ryp6eTJiyK ce H#e TaKO MHoro aa no
mhothm cejiHMa 3hmh HeMa MyiuKapaua kojh 6h cckjjh
6a,zi;tt>aKe. 36or Tora ce Taj o6nqaj CBe BHUie HanyuiTa.
Meiuoxuja.
yTBpJ)eHO je na jeMeToxnja 3aKJioiteHa on ceBepHHx BeTpoBa, Bpjio HaBOAibeHa, h mhhh
jeaaHD on Hajnô^HHJHx KpajeBa BajiKaHCKora flojiyoCTpBa cyiiehn no BereTauHJH, H3rjieâ n* y H>oj HMa h
mopckhx yTHuaja ca 3anana. 3nMe cy Kpahe h MaH>e
oujTpe ho na KocoBy: CHer na/ia y êneivi6py, a no
npaBHJiy ra Hecraje KpajeM (})e6pyapa. JleTHHa y Metoxhjh paHHj'e cracaBa ho Ha KocoBy. flo npaBH/iy ce
Ao6njajy #Be >KeTBe, a JiHBane ce no TpH nyia Koce.
HapOHHTO ce xBajin mctoxhjcko noBphe, oco6hto nacyjb, kojh ce y 3HaTHHM KOJiHMHHaMa H3B03H npeMa Mhtpobhuh; Heryje ce h MHoro KOiiiTaHa 3a cTOKy. Bohe oco6hto ycneBa
OB/ie HMa noc/ie TeTOBCKor noaropa
HajBHuie KecTeHa, 3aTHM MHoro ja6yKa, on kojhx ce"
XBajie HajBHuie 6y3Jinje, Koje cy tjjko npoBHAHe aa
ce ceiwe bhah. FIoMeHyTO je 6oracTBO h paBHHX ae/iOBa
MeTOXHJe >K6yi>eM h chthom uiyMOM; a H3uan ZleHana
h flehn HMa no njiaHHHaMa myMa on 6opa, je/ie h
KOCOBCKA GTAPA
CHBW.JA
cwpne, 3aTHM npocrpaHHx cyBaia. MMa AaKAe yoiOBa

h 3a CToqapcTBO bcjihkhx pa3Mcpa h oho je HapoMHTO
pa3BHjeHO y FI/iaBy; moHh he ce eKcnôaTHcaTH h pa3HoapcHa iuyMa.
OBaKO 6oraTa 06/iacr je 3a BpeMe cpeAft>e-BeKOBHe cpncKe Ap>KaBe 6hjiz jaKO Hace/beHa. To ce cavio
y hcko/ihko bhah no mhothm ce/niMa ;;oja ce MecTO
cnoMHfoy y HatuHM cnoMeHnuaMa, HapoMHTO y AeMaHckoj xpHCOBy^>n. Baiue ce Mo>Ke H3BecTH no 6e36pojhhm pa3Ba.iHHaMa oa upKaBa h oa Kyha. He caMO Aa
y CBaKOM apHayTCKOM ce/iy HMa pa3Ba.iHHa oa cpncKHX
UpKaBa, Beh ce Ha ibnx Han/ia3H h H3BaH AaHaumnx ceAa, h
necTO ce jaKO CKpHBeHe y ujyMapuHMa h m.6yihy. 1^3BajiHHe or upKaBa cy napomiTo noMeHyTe koa M. Mn;iojeBHha h Xn^(J)epAHHra. Y npopeljenuM cpncKOM craHOBHHUJTdy Kpy>Ke nptme Aa cy OBje 3a BpiMe uapeBHHe M
6wj\a Bt'^HKa Hace;ba. h or AaHaiuibHX ce.ia TaKBa cy.
5aH>a, Cyxo Tp.io, PyAHHK h floArpalje.
Ocum ZLewana h Cb. riaipHjapiuHje HMa join OAp>KaHHX
MaitHx upKaBa, Koje cy MaxoM 6h.ih h>hxobh mctoch, h
HapoMHTO ce noMHibe TopnoMa y rioAropy.
Caâ je nAOAna MtjTOXHja oia6o HaceêHa. IlpeBâ^yjy Ma;ia ce.Ta or 1020 Kyha. HaJBthe je ce.no
HcrHHwhH, Koje ce y napoAHUM necMaMa 30Be McthHHua. ca 150 Kyha Ap6aHaca h noap6anaujeHHX Myxaunpa H3 Cp6nje. CBa cy ce/ia ocnoBaHa y KpqeBHHaMa,
h no TOMe ce bhah Ra je noc/ie Ky/nypne enoxe, y kojoj je MeToxHJa 6n.ia rycTO Hace/bena, neo OBaj Kpaj
noAHB/bao. h noHOBa cy ocnHBana Ma/ia Hace.ba y iuyMaMa. ripeB/iat)yjy ce/ia pa3peijeHora Tuna, a.in hx HMa h
jaKO pajpcljCHHx. Ccna MeiuoBHTor CTaHOBHHiuTB.i Ae/ie
ce no npaBH/iy Ha Maxa/ie, Koje ce 30By cpncKa, apuayTCKa, ziaTHHCKa, h;ih no HMemiMa nupoAHua
CB^ka
u
Kyha orpafyeHa je o6opoM
n;iOTOM, Ha KuMe je rope
Ka^Ky, 6H.ia:
na6auaHO
Tpibe.
MaxoM
u
je apuayTCKa Kyha,
y cpeAHHH n o6opa
Koja je no npaBH.iy Ky/ia, 03HAaHa oa recanoi waMona,
Ae6eAHX 3HA0Ba, 6e3 npo3opa, nyH>Tpa je n Aau>y no.lyiaMa. y 3HAOBHMa cy oTBopn hjih Ma3ra/ie, ca yaahhm npope3HMa Kp03 Koje ce caMO nyujKa Mowe npo-
HOBA CPBHJA
ByhH.
Ha KpOBy
Kyjie,
H3Mefcjy
bhtkhx ouaKa,
j\u>Ke.
ce no npaBH^y CTpa>Kapa, oneT ca Ma3ra;iaMa 6e3 npo3opa. Flo ce^HMa ce 6e;ie OBe Kyjie, yâjbeHe je/ma
oj. apyre, a H3Me^y h>hx cy Bohtbaun h jiyroBH. Ky;ie
h th JiyroBH cy CKpoBHUJTa h CHara ApHayTa. no my-
MapuHMa xBaiajy 3acejxc h cBeTe ce jeân apyroMe, a

aKO ^yryjy KpB, 3aTBapajy ce y Ky;ie. Beh ohihth H3ivie
uyjia h LuyMapaKa H3MefjyH>HX Aaje yTHcaK o Hecnryphocth Koja y MeToxHJH BJiana. YTncaK HecHrypHOCTH nojaqaBa ce THMe iiito CBaKO hoch nyuiKy, h êna on 12
no 15 roAHHa. Ako koch hjih ope, y 6jih3hhh My je
nyinKa, h hhm Heno3HaT hobck Hanê, ocraBJba Kocy
h n;iyr h y3HMa nyuiKy. Boah bojiobc h hoch nyinny
npeKO paMeHa, KaiHTO oko Ky;ia HMa #pBeHHx qapAaKa. He peTKO cy ohh npnjienjbeHH y3 Ky/ie. A;ih h
OHH HHCy OHOJ1HKO OTBOpeHH Kao no CeÎHMa H3BaH
MeTOXHj'e.
CacBHM cy apyKinje cpncne Kyhe, 6n.no y hhcto

cpncKHM 6hjio y MeinoBHTHM cejiHMa. OHe cy yBeK je/ma
y3^pyry h no npaBHJiy 6e;mor H3i7ieo.a. HajnpHMHTHBhhjh cy Tnn rp6yjbaqe, ynpaBO c/iaMHe K0Jin6e, Ha^HK
Ha cn6ape, kojhx je HeKaaa no Cp6Hj'n 6h;io. 3aTHM
HMa 6pBHapa, caaMOM noKpHBeHHx, peTKO hepaMHÔM,
h Ha nocneTKy n/ieTapa o6e HMajy ABOja BpaTa. OuaKa
HeMa, Beh Ha onaMjbeM cy KpOBy otboph Kpo3 Koje
npoâ3n ahm, h 30By ce opJbaK. Kyha je noêjbeHa
y ABa #ejia, h y jeaHOM je cTOKa, a y npyroM Kyha y
y>KeM CMHC/iy, aK/ie orfeHuiTe c BaipoM, rê caMo
3hmh CTapHjH HJiaHOBH nopojxnue HohnBajy. Oko Kyhe
HMa yBeK hnêpa 3a ocTaBy, n H>KHHa h;ih Bajaia
y KOJHMa ce HohnBa h kojh HMajy yôry co6a. Y3 apHayTCKe Kyhe HeMa hHJiepa h H>KHHa. Ha nocjieTKy y
6/ih3hhh Kyhe HMa h AeBojaHKHx KOJinda h;ih #eBOJa;
hkhx Kyhepa."
r.)
BapouiH KocoBCKe Crape Cp6HJe.
H3B03 h yB03 KocoBa, MeTOXHJe n npn3peHCKe

KOT^HHe 6no je no ceâMAeceTHx roflHHa npomôra
BeKa ynyhcH nor/iaBHTo npeMa CKa^py h Ja^paHCKOM
Mopy, y Matboj
251
npeMa Beorpaay h CapajeBy,
MepH
CKonjby.
Ho Tora ce BpeMeHa o;ip>Ka/ia Ba>KHOCT ciapor

TproBaHKor nyTa FIpHspeH CKaâp, kojh cc y cpejiiheM Beny 3Bao 3eTCKH nyT h/ih Ta-injaHCKH Via de
Zenta. Taj, ca;xa nanyiuTCHH h 3anyiiiTeHH nyT Hjê oa
IlpH3peHa zio/ihhom npH3peHCKe BncrpHne Ha ce;ia
>Kyp h UlK03y, na ;ieBOM crpanoM ZIpHMa Ha Hobh
XaH (ap6aHauiKH XaH-Mpw); 3aTHM npeKO MOCTa Ha
JhyMn (Ypa Jbyiic) h Be3HpoBa Mocia na HpHMy
(Ypa Be3Hpn) Ha Bacnac (Bay-HcnacHT). Rajhe, no
Cnaiipa cy jom OBe r.iaBHe TawKe Ha tom nyiy: KyziyMpnja, <tvieT, Tiaapa Ma;iHT, MHxa/t>Ha, Bap/ieT, Opa-
xoBO-lioJbe (Oyiua Ape), ITyKa, TiepeT, JloroHba CKyibc,

FoMcnh, Tiac})a TypHnpeHK h MjeT, H3Ha/i Kora cy
pa3Ba;iHHC /jajHHa (Hatta). Taj nyT je 6ho yBeK 3a
KapaBane npoxoAan, a y nocieafoHM BpeMenHMa CBe
HecnrypHHJH. Raj caM 1911 roAHHe XTeo ibHMe npohH
on CKa^pa fIpH3peHy, 6ho ra je H3Ha^ MjeTa 3aTBO-
PHO HeKH MHpH/lHTCKH nOMaBHUa.

Or KaKO jc carpaJjeHa KOcoBCKa h MopaBCKOBapâpcKa >Ke;ie3HHua, yB03 h H3B03 ce ynyTHO nor/iaBHTo npeMa Co;iyHy, a ycJien Tora je y pa^y h Tptobhhh BaponiH HacTao npeoKpcT h BpeH>e y TproBamkhm h 3anaT.iHJCKHM KpyroBHMa, Koje ce HHJe join
noTnyHO yMHpnô. Hacra/ia je HOBa >KHBa 6op6a 3a
oncTaHaK H3Meljy Mecra ojawa.ia cy h nocra/ia napoujHMa paHHJa ce<ia h He3naTHH apyMCKH xanoBii, k:io
:
MmpoBHua,
JiHn/baH h
<J>cpH30BHh,
oc.ia6n.iH
cy
paa h TproBnna y crapuM naponjiiMa. Kao FlpH3pi

IlpHUJTHHH II T)aKOBHUH.
0,1 6ep/iHHCKor Konrpeca
je jouj
jeziaii
unnn.iau
nopeMeTHOCTapv BapouiKy paBHOTOKy h ma3Bao Bpeihe

napoMHTo y kocobckhm BapoLUHMa. To cy Myxaunpn
H3 CpGnje h Bocne. On Hajjawer cy ynmaja 6h.ih
xaunpn H3 Minna, .TecKOBna n Bpaibe, KOJH cy. >khRehu
mi paiiHjc y KHBAIM h nanpeziHHJHM eKOckhm ucirrpHMa, yHe/iii y TproBanKii >khbot obhx
oG.iacTH ninne nonpcTa H >khbocth. Ochm rora, obh m>
bojhx Rapoiim m pcHpOTC/lM,
HpM, npoTcpaini Ma
i!
252
HOBA CPEHJA
oâ^H cy ce pa/iy h tckobhhh c bctihkom eHeprnjoM,

He 6npajyhH necTO cpeacrBa h MeHbajyhH yTBpêHe o^Hoce TproBanKor pejxa y kocobckhm h noapHMCKHM BapOUIHMa. y HeKO/lHKO Cy H3MeHHJIH H je3HK H THn KOcobc})ckhx qapujHJa. y tt>HMa ce npe jiocejbeiba Myxaunpa roBopHJio norviaBHTO cpncKH h TypcKH, Matte
ap6aHauiKH; or aoce;beH>a Myxaunpa je ap6aHaiuKH
je3HK Bnuie yodHHajeH. Jlajbe, npe Myxaunpa cy ce
Ap6aHacH, ^.ocejbeHH ca cejia y BapouiH, Ha KocoBy h
y FIpH3peHy Typnn3Hpa;iH, npHMajyhH je3HK h npn/iaroâBajyhH ce TypcKOM ayxy napuinje, OHOMe ujto cy
ra yTBpAHflH Typun ep/iHje. H noc;iett>e je #o;iacKOM
Myxaunpa nopeMeheHO, h MaxoM ce join HHje ycra/iHO
oapetjeHH THn qapuiHJe.

y Be3H c nocjie,a;Ffc>HM MyxaijHpcKHM yTHuajeM HaroBecTHhy je#Hy MHcao Koja ce caâ He MO)Ke flOBOJbHO
o6pa3ô>KHTH. Bhjio je yTHpêHO jia Cp6n ncmeTKOM
19 Bena HHcy hhhh^h BehHHy BapouiKor CTaHOBHHUjTBa
hh y HaJMHCTHJHM cpncKHM o6.nacTHMa, Beh cy >KHBe;iH
no cejiHMa, 6h;ih cy Hapoa oja, cejia, cejbaMKH Hapo.
Morao ce H3BecTH 3aKJbyqaK jia. Cp6n Hncy HMa^H
HAH HHCy JOHI CTeKJIH cnocodHOCTH aa OCHHBajy Be/iHKe BapouiH. fpun h ByrapH, >KHBehn noji hcthm
no^HTHHKHM npnjiHKaMa, HMa/iH cy BapouiH ca cbojhm
BehHHaMa. ropn>H 3aKJbyqaK he ce, H3ryie#a, y HeKOJIHKO npOMeHHTH JieT3iJbHHM CTyAHJaMa o nO^pHMCKOMeToxHjCKHM BapoujHMa. Hivia H3BecHnx noâTaKa h
3HaKOBa jia cy Cp6n h nocne ap6aHaun<e HHBa3Hj'e
nyro BpeMeHa ûhh/ih BehHHy craHOBHHUiTBa y riehn,
a HapoHHTO y FIpHipeHy, r\ae cy join y npBHM nee?THHaMa 19 BeKa npeB.naijHBajiH, a .aouHnje, nocraBuiH
MaH^HHa, ,nyro cy npynami CBy TproBHHy y cbojhm
pyKaivia h AaBa;iH THn BapouiH. Obo ce MO>Ke H3BecTH H3 noâTaKa Dr. J. Mullera, /lyroroflmuFber ;ieKapa y Typcnoj bojcuh, kojh ce Hapo^HTO y obhm
KpajeBHMa 6aBHO h HecyMfoHBO hx y npBOJ no/iobhhh 19 Bena Haj6ojbe no3naBao; HaBeuihy hx npn
pa3MaTpaiby noje/iHHHx BapouiH. Hcto TBpê h crapn
MeuiTaHH. Be^HKH 3Haqaj cpncKor TproBanKor peâ
y obhm BapouiHMa jc jaKO CMaFbeH tck oji nace
253
Ochm Tora cy Tana cpncne Man>HHe

ciapHM
BapoiuHMa
h Mhtpobhuh nocraê He3HaTy
HHJe, jep je noce;baBaH>CM Myxau^pa nopacTao 6poj
MyxaMenaHCKor CTaHOBHHtuTBa Bh/io 6h oh BcnHKor
HHTepeca TaMHO yTBp/iHTH Taj MyxaMeâHCKH npwpauiTaj, Kao h to KaKO cy ce KpeTa/iH 6poJHH oahoch
H3Mc^y Cp6a h MyxaMtjaHaua y CTapHM BapoiuHMa
obhx 06/iacrH; Mo>Kâ he ce y TypcKHM .noKa/iHHM apxHBHMa HahH 3a to ynoTpe6:bHBHX nonaTaKa.
Ca/ia ce Mory y obhm 06/iacTHMa h3jibojhth abc
MaBHP rpyne BapoiuH: nonpHMCKO-MeTOXHjCKe h kocoBCKe BapouiH, h Me^y noc/ieAH>HMa, iia^>e, KOcoBCKe
>Keê3HHMKe BapouiH, h 3a6aneHH /lOKa/inn h aAMHHHCTpaTHBHH UeHTpH."
/baBan>a Myxaunpa.
J.)
riojpHMCKO-MeTOXHJCKe BapOUJM.
To cy npH3peH, fleh h roaKOBwiia. BapoiuH nnonhhx KOT/iHHa, Koje cy aanac yaa/beHe on r.iaBHHX koMyHHKaUHOHHX .IHHHJa H >KHBC nOMaBHTO Oil CBOJHX
OKO.iHHa. Mt'f)y h>h\ a je HajnoBOJbHHJer no/iowaja h
HaJBt hw FIpn3peH, HajBeha Bapoiu y o6;iacTHMa ceBepHO
oa
LLI^p
nâHHHe.
'
1.
eH.
flpii3peH je Ha peun Bhctphuh, woa 6pjoM Ybh;beHOM, no KOMe ce no/iowaj ripn3peHa H3 naieKa pa3no3Haje. Bapoiu je Ha Bhctphmhhoj n/iaBHHH, 3aTHM Ha
na KojwMa je rpan H3 TypcKor

6/ih3mhm ry n/iaiiHue IlaujTpHK,
Illapa.
KopHTHHK h
riopeii Elehif, ripn3peH je na najzieriiueM no/io>Kajy obhx KpajeBa. Hcno/i Bapomn cy
n.iojiHa n>>ApHMa 11 Ilozirop, 3aTHM Ijikobh'jkh Xac,
kojh je TaKoê 3HaTHHM ne/ioM ynyhen Ha npH3pencKy
nHJany; ckohomckh cy 3a npn3pen npHBeaaiie h wapCKe yne CpencKa, Ohclc h ,'byMa /Ke.uMHHMKa eraHHua 3a ripinpen je *.pH30Biih, no Kora boah onncaHH upno/beBCKH nyT.
Hajcrapuja npoiu/iocT flpmpena hhjc
je3epcKHM
Tt-paca.Ma,
Bpi'Mena (Ka.baja).
254
HOBA CFBHJA
HcnHTaHa. He 3Ha ce HHiuTa o tteroBOj npoiujiocTH npe

pHMJbaHa. Hcto Tano He 3Ha ce TaqHo je jih oh Kao
Bapoiu nodojao h 3a BpeMe PHMJbaHa. 3Ha ce caMo
jia je Herae y HberoBOj okojihhh 6una pHMCKa Bappiu
Koja ce 3Ba;ia TepaHiia JHpeneK mhcjih &a je OHa OHJia
Ha Medy âHaiutber FIpH3peHa. ZlpyrH CTpyqtt>auH cy
je Tpa>KH^H y pa3HHM MecTHMa npH3peHCKe okojikhc
TaKO, ,HparaiueBHh je mhcjiho na ce cma Ha;ia3H;ia Ha
daBaMa peKe HcTOKa h DiHHapa, Amh Bye jia je OHa
6HJia Hervie koh JlyqaHa, a JacTpe6oB je Tpa>KH y naHauifeeM ce/iy CyBOj PeuH.
Uoji HMeHOM FIpH3peH (rpqKH IlQiodidva) cnoMHHê
ce y noneTKy jeâHaecrora Bena. ToAHHe 1020 y tbeMy
je BacHJinje MaKeÔHau Byrapoy6nua 3acHOBao enHCKonHJy. y hctom Beny nomaâ noA cpncKy BJiacr.
CpncKH Kpajb Muxanjio Aao j e npH3peH c HberoBOM
okojihhom CHHy BcuHHy Ra HdHM ynpaBjba. Kao ynpaBHTe^> npH3peHCKe o6.nacTH Boahh je pa36HO je^Hy
BH3aHTHJCKy BojcKy Koja je 6HJia ynaâ y Cp6HJy. Oh
je 6ho y o6;iacTH Kpajba Bo^HHa, kojh ce 1073 ro^HHe
y H>eMy KpyHHcao 3a 6yrapCKor uapa. Ca nponaiuhy
cpncKe ^p>KaBe y XI Beny h FIpH3peH nomaâ no#
BH3aHTHJci<y o6âcT. y ^BaHaecTOM Beny HeMajta ra
Ha Kpahe BpeMe ocBaja, anu ra 6p30 Hanyuna. JJouHHJe ra Ha;ia3HMO y BJiacm BH3aHTHJCKor uapa A;ieKCHJa Tpeher, h y o6;iacTH enupcKHx êcnoTa. y hcto
BpeMe JlnnjbaH Ha KocoBy 6ho je y cpncKHM pynaMa.
3a BpeMe Kpajba UparyTHHa (12781282) 6ho je y
cpncKHM pyKaMa. FIpH i<pajy Tora Bena noTna,ne #e(|)hhhthbho no;* cpncKy o6âcT, h y 6p30 noc/ie Tora
nodajie HaJ3naMeHHTHja Bapoiu y cpe^FbeBeKOBHoj Cp6hjh. Kpajb MHJiyTHH, Uap XlyiuaH h Uap ypoiu 6abh^h cy ce qeuihe y ibeMy, h MHoro cy AonptiHcnH jxa
ce pa3BHJe. Kpajb Mw;iyTHH ca3H#a y npH3peny Ha
peuH JleBHUJH upKBy ycneHHJa Cb. Boropo^Hue, Koja
je aouHHJe npeTBopeHa y qaMHj'y h 6h npo3Bana UyMa
UaMH. 3a BpeMe uapa JJyiuaHa FIpH3peH ce pa3BH jio
CBor HaJBeher BpxyHua. Beiue je/jHa ojx naJBehHx h najcâBHHJHX TproBam<HX BapoujH. y IberOBOJ OKOJIHHH
fieiue Buuie rpaôBa h uapcKHx j^Bopaua, Kao iuto cy
KOCOBCKA CTAFA CPbHJA

Ph6hhk, ripH3peH h BHiuerpa^, 3aTHM mhoto B/iacreJ1HHCKHX êTHiHKOBaua. Ko/IHKO je TO 6nna 3HaMeHHTa
h HanpenHa Bapoiu bhuh ce no TOMe ujto je npH3peH
KOBao cboj HOBau. FIpH3peHCKHM rpaaoM ynpaB.^bao jc
KecpaAiija, kojh je yBeK 6ho Cp6HH noâHHK cpncKor
uapa, a TproM je ynpaB/bao KH3 kojh je o6hmh
6ho poiiOM H3 npHMopcKHX cpncKHX rpajOBa, naJBHine
H3 /Iy6poBHHKa h KoTopa. flopeii k>hx 6ho je napuHUK, 3aKyni!HK uapHHe. H iiapnHHUH cy 6hjm MaxoM
KoTopann h ZIy6poBqaHH. Mhhh ce na je cpeaFbeBeKOBHO ripH3pCHCKO CTaHOBHHUJTBO 6h/IO jaKO H3MCIIJaiIO.
Behmiy cy whhh/ih Cp6n noiiaHHUH cpncKor uapa, 3aTHM
je 6h.io KoTopaHa, Hy6poBMaHa, Kopqy/iaHa, Cn/behana
H 3aiipaHa. Hcto TaKo 6h/io je M/ienaHa, <t>/iopeHTHnana h Caca, 3aTH\i Ap6aHaca h B.iaxa. Cbh obh crpaHuu
>KHBe^H cy y Ko.iOHHjaMa. CBaKa on obhx KO.iOHHja
HMa/ia je CBoja iiapoMHTa npaBa. HajBHine je 6h.io Ry6poBMana. Ohm cy HMa;iH h cboj reHepa;iHH KOHcy.iaT.
Ko;ihko je 6m.io dpaHor e/ieMeHTa y npmpeny bhjui
ce ua\6ojhQ no tomc ujto ey OB#e KamiHUH HiiaJiH
^Be upKBe CBdy Mapujy npH3pencKy h CBeior fleipa
noBpx fIpH3peHa. OBne je 6h/io h ceiiHiiJTe npaBOc.iaBHor enncKona. ypoin II noK/ioHno je npH3peHi
CKOMy enncKony
npH3peHCKH (rop^n rpa;i, Bhinerpaj), 3aje/iHO ca rpaacKOM upKBOM. xpaMOM CBeTor

Hhko/ic, na y ibeMy MyBa enncKoncKy pn.3HHny h na
ce y c/iyqajy onacnocTM Mowe y ib ck/iohhth. flounnje
je Zlyujan TBpâBy jiao HOBo-ocnoBanoM MaHacrHpy Cb.
Apatiê/ia, a enncKony y naKna>ay ,iao Tpn ce.ia. 3a
BpeMe 6ypnnx Bp^-Muia Mnorn rpaljann 6n ce noB.iaum.ih y rpa;x. ronuHe 1332 mo.th.i3 je ay6poBa iKa ko/lOHHJa Kpa;ha HyinaHa A8 mm nonycru na ca.vw Mory
y rpn.iv nocTan/baTii cipawe. KaKO 6h 6h.ih CMrypHHJH
*a ce h 3a CBOjy po6>
A Kajx ce ro/iune L372Hhk
A.iTOManoBHli c bojckom npnMHuao npn:ipeny, cbh J\y6poB ianH no6erouie H3 BapoujH y rpan H y MaHaCTHp
rpa.n
<
Cb. Apaiiljc/ia.
C nponainhy cpncKC uapeBiwe iiohuh.l' npona.lam h caM ripn^Kn Kao HaJBa>KinijH rpa^ y ,ap>KaBn.
oh je najBiimo h oceTHo H.cny nponacr. Ilpn3pen je
HOBA CPliHJA
nponao join npe Hero je noTnyHO najia cpejiHbeBeKOBHa

cpncKa ^p>KaBa h npe Hero cy ra TypuH ocbojh^h.
Beh roiiHHe 1433 cnoMHHê ce Kao HanyojTeHo MecTO,
a TypUH ra 3ay3euie hctom 1455, h to 20 nana nouiTO
je na;io Hobo Bp#o. A^h mhm cy noa TypuHMa npH^HKe nocTaê Ma;io cptêHHj'e, IlpH3peH ce noHHê
Bp/io 6p30 onopaBâTH. To je aouuio OTy#a uito je
6ho Ha Ba>KHOJ Taqun Taiiamtber 3eTCKor ApyMa, a 3athm OTy.ua uito Kp03a h. HHje npoâ3HO HHJe/iaH Ba>KHHJH BOJHH .ZlpyM, H TaKO je 6HO nOUITe^CH OR LUTeTHHX
yTHuaja Koje cy Ha nojeiiHHe BapomH BpuiH;iH bcjikkh
bojhh noxoAH. H 36or Tora CBera FIpH3peH Beh y 16
BeKy ce cnoMHH>e Kao a<HBa TproBaqna Bapom, Koja
je HMajia npocrpaHe KapaBaHcapaje h MHoro6poJHe nyhaHe. y 17 BeKy cnoMMfey ra Kao jeAHy oa HajBthnx
BapouiH Ba^KaHCKor ricnyocrpBa JeâH nyTHHK H3
noneTKa ceâMHaecTor BeKa paqyHa aa je y Ilpn3peHy
6hjio 8 600 Kyha. a ccxJwckh apxnenHCKon rieTap roAHHe 1655 3a6e/ie>KH0 je na y fIpn3peHy HMa 12.000
Kyha, Metjy KoJHMa je 6h;io k3to./ihmkhx CBera 30. W
to BpeMe Oia3H/ia cy Ha LLIapy Cy^TaHOBa CTana Ha
jieTtby Hcnauiy. y ocaMHaecTOM BeKy y ripH3peHy cy
Heo6HHHO pa3BHJeHH 3aHaTH h TproBHHa. Oh nocTaje
râBHO MecTO Ha Ba^KaHCKOM flojiyocTpBy 3a H3pa,ay
TypcKor opy>KJa. ripH3peHCKO opy>KJe H3B03H ce MaK
3a MHCHp. HapOHHTO je nyBeH npn3peHCKH caxTHJaH,
pa3He KyjyHUHJCKe h Tep3H|CKe H3paAe. CBH/iapcTBO je
Bpô #o6po pa3BHJeHO. TproBHHa je ycpecpet)eHa y
KBapTy EviHHHTy, r\ne ce Ha/iaaH nonpHBeH 6a3ap ca
orpoMHHM 6pojeM jiyhaHa.
M3Mel}y cbhx BapouiH flocanaimbe CTape Cp6hjc y FIpM3peHy je HaJBHiue canyBaHO ocTaTaKa on
cpe.nHDeBeKOBHHx cpncKHx CTapHHa. Ha npBOM MecTy
Tpe6a cnoMeHyTH upKBy ycneHnja CBeTe Boropo^Hue, Kojy HapoA 30Be CBeTa FleTKa, a Typuw UyMy
yaMH Ta je upKBa TeK y 17 om BeKy 6mia npeTBopeHa y uaMHJy. UpKBa je ca3H/iaHa y 06/iHKy KpcTa
ca neT Ky6eTa Ha rviaBHOM Ky6eTy HMa uiecT OKaHa,
Koja cy ao 30 cm. niHpoi<a, a no 2 m. BncoKa. y cBakom or cnopeflHHX Ky6eTa HMa hx no neTHpH. UpKBa
KOLOBLKA CTAPA CPKHJA
on neweHor hepnHMa. Ha ceBepHOM h jy>Khom Ky6eTy 6n.io je ymcthmmkh HcnncaHO n\ie CBeTor CaBe. Ha 3H0BHMa H3iiyipa 6H/ia je >KHBonHcaHa.
TypuH cy je KpeneM npeMa3a/iH, a.iH h aaHac Ka;i otnaHe hpen bhah ce MHBonHC. Ta upKBa 6H/ia je 3a
ayro noiiiTOBaHa h oa Myc/ioMaHa, HapoMHTo Myc/ioMaflHa cpncKor nopeKâ, nnje cy >KeHe TaJHO nocehHje
ca3HiiaHa
xpaM.
Ba/ie OBaj
Crapa je h upKBa Ce. Cuaca. To je 6wm. conCTBeHa upKBa B/ncre/iHHa M/ia/ieHa B.iaaojeBHha, kojh
je >KHBeo y BpeMe uapa AyiuaHa. y jejiHo Bpevie Cp
6h cy je 6h.ih HanycTH-iH, h y iboj je CTOKa n/iaHAOBa/ia, Tana je MHoro nocTpa;ia;ia. Oj, Cp6a cy je 6h/ih
OTe/lH LiHHuapH.
dapa je h npnea Ce. Boptja, Ma/ia h HHCKa 3rpaziHua. To je 6n,ia nopo^HMHa upKBa 6paTCTBa PyHOBHha. kojh cy ce Hcryp^H/iH.
UpKBa Ceeiuoz HiiKO.ie 6n/ia je 3acyia m^yHKOM
h necKOM jeAHor noTOKa kojh je o/ia3HO c UBHjbeHa.
OrnpH^H cy je 1858 toahhc. H to je Ma/ieHa, He3HaTHa upKBHua, a casnaana je y cpeaêM BeKy.
M*l)y AaHaoJM.HM npn3peHCi<HM gaMnjaina Hivia.HX
cHrypHO joui Koje cy 6n;ie upKBe.
npn3peHCKn rpaa HaMHFbeH je Ha MecTy Heniaiutbe
BH3aHTnjCKe TBpljaBo. Taj rpa^ je HMao mhoto CBOAOBa,
noA3eMHHx xuAHHKa h BOAOBOAa Ha hctomhoj crpann
or TBpâBe 6n/ia ie nauHibcua iiap-jMHTa 3rpa/ia 3a boAeHe 6yHape. Kaaa cy TypuH y ie.iH ripH3pen, TBphaBa
je 6hj\2l
cpyiuena. rioc.ie cy je
Typ
:h
noHaB/ba.iH
Ha
3anaAHoj dpaHH rpaaa MaxMyT-naiua PoTy/ioBbh naMHHHO je BCVlHKy Ky/IV, y KOJy je CMeCTHO 3BOHO Koje
je y3eo H3 c.\iezicpeBCKe upKBe roAHHe 1813.
Ha
caia iipewa jyroHCTOKy, y K.incypH BhCTpHue cy pa3Ba.mne cpcuibCHCKOBHor rpaiia Bmuerpaaa. y cpejitbeu BeKy 3BaJiH cy ra h Bmiierpaa h
opibH rpaA*3a pa^.iHKyoA iloiber TpaAa", to jeer
npH3peHCKe TBpljjBc. To je iipbo6htho 6n/ia BiuanTHJcKa cTpa>napnHua, Koja je nojuiriiyTa na HajaroAHMJen
MecTy y ao.thhh BHCTpnue. CpGn cy ra ytuuWAH rpaAOM H y IbC'My C33HAa^H upKby Cb. HHKO/ie. ToBopH
HUBA CPBHJA
HOBA CPEHJA
258
HeKa orpoMHa cTaiya Koja je,

KaKO TypuH Bepyjy, 6w\a ncnytbeHa AyKaTHMa. IlpeA
rpaÔM je 6ho moct. Y TOMe rpa^y Ap>KaHa je pH3HHua npH3peHCKe enHCKonHJe, y HdOJ cy qyBaHe enncKonHJCKe KHoHre h yTBapn. Cejbauw ce;ia PaBê h Cejia
y Cpe^CKOJ >KyriH Mopa/in cy cra/mo AP>KaTH crpa>Ky
Ha MOCTy h npen, MaHacnipOM Cb. ApxaHreâ. A CBa
OKO.iHa ceâ Mopaâ cy to hcto hhhhth KaA je to Hamao
3a noTpe6HO HryMaH IIoa 6pAOM Ha KOMe je 6ho BhuierpaA uap HywaH je roAHHe 1348 HanHHuo MauaculupCeeiuoz ApxameAa MuxauAa. Y tbCMy je 6wjia
upKBa, o kojoj ce roBopHJio OBaKo: riaTOC npn3peHCKe upKBe, AenaHCKa upKBa, nehcKa npenpaTa, 6atbCK0
3/iaTO h pecaBCKO nncaHHJe HHrê ce He Hajia3e". MaHacTHp Cb. ApxaHreâ MnxaHJia pa3opeH je roAHHe
1615 h oa HDeroBa k iMeHa HaMHtbeHa je CnHaH-naiHHHa
uaMHJa y FIpH3peHy.
Vjie je 6ho rpaA Pu6huk, kojh ce AOCTa cnoMHH>e
cnoMeHHUHMa, cana HHJe jacHO. Jacpe^HDeBeKOBHHM
y
crpe6oB mhcjih Aa ra Tpe6a Tpa>KHTH Ha Mecry Koje ce
ca,na 30Be By3auH;iyK, h Koje ce Ha;ia3H Ha no caTa
AajbHHe oa r1pH3peHa.
y FIpH3peHy HMa 29 uaMHJa. oa kojhx je Haj3HaMeHHTHJa CHHaH-naiUHHa uaMHJa. 3a AaHamiby Ka
TOAHHKy upKBy npHHajy Aa je HaMHibena Ha MecTy
upKBe Cb. JlHMHTpHJa. Ha Bhctphuh je TeKHj'a Mapaiu,
h koa H>e ABa orpoMHa n.iaTaHa, 3a Koje ce mhc/ih
Aa cy H3 BpeMeHa Uapa flyuiaHa. riopeA obhx y BapouiH, HapoHHTO y ohom AeJiy oko BorocjiOBHJe, HMa
pa3HHX ocTaTaKa H3 cpeAêBCKOBHe cpncKe cTapHHe.
H AanaujFbH FIpH3peH je 3HaMeHHTa TproBaMKa h
3aHaT^H|cKa Bapouj. FlaAajy y ohh MHoro6poJHH 3aHaiH
6a.nKaHCKora THna: ceAîapH, caMapuHJe, KOBaqn, 3.naTapn, rpHHapn, KyHAypunje, h t. a- FIo3HaTH cy npn3peHCKH (})H^HrpaHCKH paAOBH, HapOHHTO yTHCKHBaHDe
cpMe y apbo h npaBjbeHoe cpe6poM Be3eHnx HH6yKa,
KyTHj'a, oKBHpa h t. a. no thm h KyheBHHM H3pal)eBHHaMa ripH3peH ce CMaTpa 3a HajoTMeHHJy Bapoiu
obhx KpajeBa h no ibeMy ce ynpaBJbajy h y*yc h
MOAa, napoMHTO >KCHCKa. Bapom je noAeJbeHa Ha 24
ce Aa je Ha
tbeiviy
6n;ia

tia MHoro6poJHe ecHa(J)CKe napiiiHJe (Tep3HMaxaâ, JleBHma, CapanaHa, HeMHpuHJe, >Khthh Tpr,
Maxa/ie h
Ilana3 Hapinnja).
Ha na^HHaMa Tepace Ha koj'oj je npH3peHCKH

rpaa je Bapom Ma/ia, y koj'oj >KHBe cnopo HCK/byHHBO
Cp6H npaBOC/iaBHH. Ta Maxa/ia npeflcraBJba HaJBHUJH h
HaJMHCTHJH ixeo BapoiuH. H3Mei^y nyha h no aB,injaMa
H36njajy MHoroopoJHH Mâ3CBH CBe>Ke n/iamiHCKe Boae,
Koja ce pa3BOAH no aB/injaMa h c.ny>KH Kao HCKa Bpcra npnpo;iHnx KaHaâ 3a MHiuhehbe. Cp6H >KHBe join
npn yâ3y y Bapom, y npaiy kojh ce 30Be 5a>KAapaHa.
TypuH >KHBe y paBHHUH, oko CnHaH-natuHHe uaMHJe,
r\ne je, na>Ky, 6ho HyiuanoB ABop. Mhcjih ce #a Bapom
Ma/ia y cpeflfoeM BCKy HHJe 6n;ia Hacc/beiia, Beh aa
cy Ty 6h/ih BHHorpa^H h jicthoHkobuh npH3peHCKe
B/iacie/ie. V obom ,icny BaponiH HMa ccaaivi Ma/inx
cpe^HDCBeKOBHHX upKBHua. To he BepOBamo 6hth nopojMMne Kane/ie nojciHHHx BcnHKaiua Koje cy ohh
rpa/ui/in y3 CBOJe .ncnbHKOBue.
TproBHHa je Bp/io >KHBa h ro upe 30 zo 10 roAHua 6u/ia je norviaBHTO y cpncKHM pyKaMa; h caja
je cpncKH je3HK nope^ TypcKor h ap6aHaiuKor qapUJHJCKH JC3HK. Behn 3HaMaj cpncKor TproBaMKor e/ieMenTa y bc3ii je 6ho H3Met}y ocra.nor h ca pe.iaTHBHO
6o:lom CHrypnoinliy Koja je y ripn3pciiy no -npe lieko/jhko jieneHHJa n.na/ia/ia. To noMHiby CKopo cbh craPhjh nyniHUH, a TBpê h MCiiiTaHH. [1pn3pen je yBCK
6ho Ba>KaH ueniap TypcKe nojuc H uhbh.ihc B/iacni.
To je Bp.io crapn rpa,i, ca yrnpijeiiHM iapujnjcKHM pekojh je yBCK 6no mhoaom h TproBawKHM era
ro6pojan h MohaH A.in y nocneAH
leueHHjaua
iipH^pcHCKa wapujHJa 6n.ia je y cue BeheM cipaxy on
hy.M.Lana, kojh cy y
IHKO nyia H Bapom oncaJ)HBa.TH. V ripH3pcny jc Kanrro OB-na/iaBa.io 6e3B:iaiijhc,
h MapujHj'a cc 3aTBapa.i,i. To HHJe H3MeH>eHO HH OCHHBanjCM KOHcy.naTa pycKOi
B66 rofl,
aouHHJe aycrpujcKor h Ta.iHJancKor. iia .ia cy napo'iino pycKii
Koncy.iH jaKO 3aujTHliaBn.iH 11;
vaBHe. Vnopeao
ca dpaxoM 0,1 JhyuJb&HB pa3BHjao ce y [lpH3pehv nyzaMeAiRCKO - apHayTCKH ())aHaTM
ilo.i
phm
i
.1
260
HOBA CPBHJA
yTHuajnM3 je y HeKO/iHKO oc;ia6H;ia cpncKa TproBHHa

y ripH3peHy HnaK cy ce Cp6n h nopeii Tora oceha/iH
jaKH h Ky^TypHO cy HaJBHine erojajiH. riopezi ochobhhx
iDKOJia HMajiH cy 6oroc/iOBHJy h TproBaMKy ujKO^y,
CBora JieKapa, h 3HaTaH 6poj iUKO/iOBaHHX TproBaua.
Flo Mmiepy, kojh je ynoTpe6HO TypCKe xapaqKe
cnHCKOBe. ro/iHHe 1838 y npH3peHy je 6yu\o 6000 Kyha,
Me^y KOJHMa je 6hjhj 18.000 npaBoc/iaBHHX Ayiua, nor/iabhto Cp6a. 4000 MyxaMeziaHaua, 2 150 KamnHKa. Flo Mh;iepy cy Cp6H hhhhjih */b, ApHayTH Ve, U,nHuapH Via,
a OcMaH^Hje caiwo Veo npH3pencKor craHOBHHUJTBa.
H3HeHal]yje bcihkh 6poj npH^peHCKnx Cpoa, a/iH HeMa
pa3/iora HeBepoBaTH Mn;iepy. HenyHHX 20 ro iHHa
noc/ie Mn;iepa noceTHO je npH3peH A. Xn/h(j)ep;iHHr
h H3Heo aa y FIpw3peHy HMa caMO 12.000 craHOBHHKa. Taj 6poj He H3iviena BepoBaTaH. Xh;i (êp/iHHr je
âjbe caoniuTHO aa y npH3peHy HMa 3000 MyxaMeiiaHaua, 900 cpncKHX h 100 KamaHMKHX Kyha. H oh je
3anHcao jia je TproBHHa 6n/ia Ta.ua nonnaBHTO y cpnckhm pyKaMa h fla ce TproBajio ca CKa^poM, Beorpajiom h CapajeBOM HenyHHX #eceT ronHHa noc/ie Xhji>(J)epAHHra npowao je Kpo3 FIpn3peH aycTpHjcKH KOHcy;i
XaH h yTBpAHO as. y FIpH3peHy HMa 11 540 Kyha ca
46.000 daHOBHHKa. Join JacTpe6oB je HcraKao j& to
Mopa 6hth HeKa norpeiHKa, jep je y npH3peHCKOM Ca;iHaMe ojx 1874 ro4. 3a6tvie>KeHO &a y IlpH3peHy HMa
3687 #oMOBa, a Jacrpe6oB je Haiuao na hx HMa 4089
(CnoMeHHK Cpn. Kpajb. AKa#eMH|e, XLI, Beorpaa, 1904.
c. 40). Mel)y npH3peHCKHM Cp6HMa je Bp;io Ma/io crapHHaua; Behnna cy ôcejbeHHUH H3 o6/ih>kh3HX ce;ia
h BapouiH, 3aTHM H3 TeroBa, He6pa, H3 UpHe Tope
h THKBeiua. Hvia 21.244 craHOBHHKa.
Flo reorpa(J)CKOM no;io>Kajy ripH3peH 6h Morao
HMaTH, h HMao je y paHHJHM BpeMeHHMa MHoro Behn
3naqaj ho AaHac. Hapo/iHa ra necMa 30Be cpncKHM
UapHrpaAOM". Taj Behn 3Haqaj y cpeAHbeM BeKy HMao
je npH3peH 36or CBor CTpaTernjcKor h KOMyHHKaunOHor no/io>Kaja. Oh je y saKJiotbeHOM no;io>Kajy noa
ULlap-nâHHHOM, a 6ho je Ha nepncj)epHJH ueHTpa/iHe
06/iacTH HeMafeHhcKe zip>KaBe; ibeMy je 6hjio tciiiko
KOCOBCKA CTAPA CPhHJA

npHhw, a H3 H>era ce c bcnhkom bojhom CHarovi Morvio
noMHUJJbaTH Ha ocBajajta jy>KHO on LUape. FIoMeHy/iH
CMO npH3peHCKO-CKanapCKH, IipHCbeBCKH H MeTOXHJCKH
nyT, kojh ce cacTajy y npH3peHy. A/ih h LLIapa je
npoxoiwa n.nanHHa h npeKO nê 6h ce momh cnpobpcth ao6pn ^pyMOBH. MeljyTHM cy npeMa TpaaHUHjaMa h npeMa ocrauHMa on pa3Ba.iHHa, y paHHJHM BpeMCHHMa, Mowna y HeMaibHhcKO o6a. HMaiH 3Haqaja
H KapaBaHCKH nyTeBH, kojh Boae npeKO LLlape; noMeHyTO je na ce Taj KapaBaHCKH cao6pahaj OApwao CBe
ok HHJe carpatjeHa KocoBCKa >Ke/ie3HHua; caâ je jane
nocehen caMO npH3peHCKO-TeTOBCKH nyT KapaBaHCKH
fIpH3peH he ao6hth npaBy Ba>KHOCT caMO aKO nope;*
H*era h;ih Kpo3 H>era npoê ayHaBCKO-jaapaHCKa >Keê3HHua.
2
:ieh.
neh, Ha peuH Bhctphuh, uor orpaHUHMa flpoK/ieTnja, Mowe ce no JienoTH no/io>Kaja ycneniHo TaKmhmhth ca IlpH3peHOM. OHa je BapoujKH ueHTap MeTOXHJe h cycejiHHx n/iaHHHCKHx 06/iacrH PyroBe, FI/iaBa,
BepaHa h Po>Kaja. B/iare je k/ihmc h 6oraTe oko^hhc
y Kojoj je pa3BHJeHO h BohapcrBO, BHHorpaaapcTBO,
CBHâpcTBO h HeroBaibe ;iyBaHa W itoj cy CKopo Kao
h y ripH3peHy pa3BHjeHH TaMO noMeHyTH 3aHaTH 6a;iKaHCKora THna. rioujTO je y flehH 6n/ia cpncKa naTpHJapujuja, OHa je Kpo3 iiyra BpeMeHa 6H/ia nyxoBHH
ueHTap cpncKor Hapo.ua; h cazta je Cb. naTpHJapujHJa
Be^HKH chmbo^ napoimor je^HHCTBa.

Up J. Mn/iep je 3a6e/ie>Kno na je y FlehH oko
ltt.38 tor. 6h;io 2400 Kytia ca 12000 CTaHOBHHKa
or
ibHX cy r&MO 130 Kyha 6n/ie npaBoc/iaBHe, 20 KaTo/ihmkc a ocTa/ie MyxaMcaaHCKe. A/ih je no o6aBeujTciby
Up Mn.nepa otobo CBC nehcKO CTanoBHHiiJTBO cpnckot nopeK.ia, n3y3CBUJH 100 apHayTCKHX, 62 ocm3h
/ihjckc h 28 UHHuapcKHx nopoamn. Ai noc/ieTKy, no
Up Mn/iepy rieii je 6n/ia npe 45^ roA. MHoro Beha
Bapouj, a noTOM jc ona/ia yc.iej nce/banaâ Cp6a. Koja
cy ce 36h.13 ochm tc roiinne join 1481, 1690 h 1740
;
(UHT.
U'.iO
CTD,
74)
HOBA CPBHJA
262
3
5aK0BHi;a.
Ti)aKOBHua je y paBHH oko pene Epe3HKa h Ha

Maô BHineM HeoreHOM 3eMJbHinTy. Ha H>y je ynyben
#eo Xaca, FIojipHMe h MeToxHJe, 33thm hctomhh nej\obh MHpH^HTCKe h Ma^HCHJCKe o6;iacTH. OHa je rviaBHo
ce^HiiiTe apHayTCKHX 6eroBa h cJdhchhx rviaBapa. BapOUJKO CTaHOBHHLUTBO je Bp;io npe,ny3HMJbHB0, a;iH
MHorH, He HMajyhH jiHMHe h hmobhc cnrypHOCTH y cbojoj BapoiuH, paccnH/in cy ce no cbhrdkhbjbhm MecTHMa
ceBepHO o^. LLIap-rijiaHHHe; TbaKOBnaHH cy oco6hto
npe,ay3HM^bHBH TproBUH h xaHunje.
Flo MH;iepy, ToaKOBHua je oko 1838 6uji3l Bpno
Be^HKa Bapoin ca 18000 MyxaMeâHaua, 2000 Cp6a
h 450 KaTOJmqKHX ApdaHaca. MeljyTHM? no Hapo#HOCTHMa Mnviep OBaKO panm^raHDaBa fiaKOBHMKO crahobhhujtbo: 17000 ApHayia, 3800 Cp6a h 180 OcMaH^Hja. XHjbêpaHHr je 3a6eJie>KHO jia je y TbaKOBHUH
1857 ro^HHe 3500 ap6aHaiDKHX Kyha, 60 cpncKHX h
70 KaTo;iHHKHx. Mory ce nope^HTH h noAauw, Koje
je 3a6e;ie>KHO MHviojeBHh (KitHra II, dp. 124). BaBehH ce y TbaKOBHUH 1900 tor., HHcaM Morao ôHh
A0 TaHHHJHX noâTana o 6pojy Kyha. PeKJiu cy mh a
MyxaMe/iaHCKHx Kyha HMa oko 4000, a 6poj cpncKHX Kyha
6h ce
npeivia
pa3/iHHHHM n3BopHMa Kpeiao oko 60130.
rieh h "BaKOBHua cy BapouiH ap6aHauiKe aHapxHJe, KpBHe ocBeie h KpBapHHe, h y ibHMa caMO 3a
neKO BpeMe Menace 3a pyKOM KaKBOM eneprHMHOM MyTecapH^y h KaJMaKaMy â ycraHOBe hckh cHomjbHB peA.
OBaj ce He MO>Ke #a yTBp^H, mrnejia, norviaBHTO 36or
AOCc/baBafea Majwcopa h MnpH^HTa y TâKOBHuy a y

rich noiviaBHTO a6or AOcejbaBatba PyroBaua h ApHayia
H3 nâfea, 3aTHM 36or AHBJber craHOBHHiiJTBa y okojihhh.
rio^c/bene cy na Maxaê, h y ToaKOBHUH, cBaKa Maxa/ia
HMa cBOjy 3ace6ny qapuiHJy, jep mho ycnen KpBH, He
6a cmctih AO/ia3HTH y 3ajeAHH n<y T JapmHJy: CBaKH nan 6h
ce ydnja^H. y ocra;iOM, to ce h OBaKO AemaBa: npea moj
A0â3aK y T>ai<OBnuy 1900 r. norHnyjio jeycpeflHapujHJe
ce#aM jby^H 36or KpBH". H 3anTHJe ap6aHaujKor nopeKJia qecTo HMajy KpB h cmcjih cy #a Me npate caMO Kpo3
i
KOCOBCKA CTAFA CPBHJA

H3BecHe Maxa.ie. JXo npe nBe nocjitjuht roziHHe obo cy
6n/ie Haopy>KaHe BapoiuH: CBaKH mobck, h jiyhaHunja h
OHaj iuto noTKHBa BO.iOBe, HMaiy y3a ce MapTHHKy h/ih peBO/iBep. TypcKa B.iacr Hnje HMa/ia HHKaKBor ayTopHTeia, Beh noje^HHH ap6aHaujKH nor/iaBapn, Kao My/ia
3eKa y FlehH, h Pn3a 6ej h BajpaM Uyp y ToaKOBHun.
flopTa je HMaâ caMO y to/ihko 3Hanaja uito je, AajyhH obhm H ^pyruM 3HaTHHM Ap6aHacHMa BC.iHKa boj-
KHMKa 3Baita h Harpajie, npeKO h>hx Mnr.ia yTHuaTH

Ha Ap6aHace. FIocvieiiHDe cy hckh oa obhx nor/iaBapa
npHMa.iH h on crpanHx, Be^HKHx npmasa. >KHBe ycpea
BapouuH y KyâMa kojc cy orpaêHe bhcokhm 3haom,
h yHyTpa #p>Ke KaiuTo no ctothhc Haopy>KaHHX moMaKa kojh hx nyBajy h y/iHBajy CTpax y BapouiH h no
OKO/1HHH, OflHHHO CpeAH>eBeKOBHHM pa3(5oJHHHKHM pHTepHMa. XpninhaHCKO ct3hobhhujtbo je noil OBaKBHM
npw/iHKaMa je 6e3 HKaKBa npaBa h 6e3 ;iHHHe h hmobhc
cnrypHOCTn: necTO ce zieujaBa &a nojeauHH ochohh ApHayTH yueibyjy 6oraTnje :bye HOBwano, y3HMajy H3
xpniuhaHCKHX iiyhaHa lijto hm Tpe6a a He nâhajy,
OTHMajy >KeHe, h Ha nooieTKy ncrepyjy ca HMan>a h Kyha;
3aTO je cpncKO ct3hobhhujtbo ocnpoTe.no, MaxoM npaBa
f>yKapa, oco6hto y ToaKOBHUH."
KocoBCKe >Ke:ie3HH4Ke BapouiH.
0a H^nxnocTaje HaJBaxuniJH epii306iiii, Kao

Kpmhe nyieBa h Ba>KHa TproBHHCKa craHHua. Kao
pacujto
rioiipuMy,
noMeHyTO, oh je CTannua 3a npH3pen,

npH3peHCKH Ilo^rop, 06Huy, JlyroBe n ribM/iane. 3aio
ujto je nopeA npyre h ujto je y ibeMy Ma/io Ap6anaca peâTHBHo je CHrypua Bapoiunua.
4>epH30Bnh je nocrao ynpaao on Ka/i je carppfyeHa KOCOBCKa H<e/ie3HHua. Ho Taiia je Ha tberoBy MecTy
c>H/ia ujyMa ce/ia HnKOAHMa, h yH>oj Ma;w xaH HeKora
<t>epn3a. HaHac y <J>epn30BHhy HMa oko 400 Kyha h
200 ayliana ca bc;ihkhm MaraumniMa, napowHTO 3a kocobcko >kht, 3aTHM 3a eBponcKe ecnanc, kojh ce OAaBê
je
;ia:i.e
pa3H0ce.
cy Cp6n iiajaKiHBHHje CTanoBHiihx neMa bhiiic 04 38 Kyha. Me^y frl
êpH30Bnhy
uiTBo, h
ai<()
HOBA CPbHJA
264
npBO MecTO 3ay3HMajy npH3peHUH, kojhx HMa 24 nopoAHiie h/ih 32 Kyhe. Rajbe HMa 3 i<yhe H3 IlpHUJTHHe,
h no jeAHa H3 CpeACKe, r^HJiaHa h Beêca. Oa cbhx
je HajdapHJa nopoAHiia CHHaAHHOBHha, H3 npH3peHa,
Koja ce HaceAHJia npe 40 roAHHa, a ocraAe cpncKe nopoAHue cy Aomjie nocjie/ufcux 1520 roAHHa.
MyxaMeâHaua HMa oko 160 Kyha, h oa HbHx cy
100 Kyha 6ocaHCKHx MyxauHpa cpncKorje3HKa, a ocra;ie
ap6aHauiKHX Myxauwpa H3 Cp6nje; h jeAHH h Apyrn cy
AOce^>eHH nocne 1878 roA. Ha nocneTKy HMa hckoahko
Kyha TaMoiiiFbHX Ap6aHaca.
y OepH30BHhy
je
musa KaTo/iHMKa nponaraHAa,
h nodoJH Te>Ktba Aa ce OBAe Hace;iH hito BHiiie ap6aHaiuKHx KamnHKa; HMa hx 22 Kyhe, AOcejbeHe H3 ripH3peHa h H3 CKaiipa.
Bp;io aKTHBHH cy h UnHuapH, kojhx HMa 18 Kyha,
AOCCJbeHHX H3 6HTOJbCKe UHHUapCKe 30He H3 BHTOJba,
Toneina, h MarapeBa h KpyiueBa.
Hanoc/ieTKy cy ce y nocneaFbHM roAHHaMa noqe^H AOcejbaBaTH UnraHH H3 npnuuTHHe, h HMa hx oko
50 Kyha, noâ MyxaMeâHCKe, no;ia npaBoaaaBHe Bepe.
Ha 120 m. oa ce/ia JlnnjbaHa noneâ ce oko JiiinjbaHCKe CTaHHue (})opMHpaTH Ma;ia BapouiHua, a;iH Bp/io
>KHBa. y kojoj ce CKyruba H3B03 h yB03 3HaTHHX Ae./iOBa
KocoBa, ca AyhaHHMa, Mara3aMa h MexaHaMa. JInnjbaHUH
OBy HOBy BapoiiiHUV 30By dacHOH. Ty HMa 10 Kyha Cp6a
H3 JlHnjbaHa, J\. TyiuTepHue, FIpH3peHa, IlpHuiTHHe h
Be/ieca. flajbe HMa 8 Kyha U,HHuapa, Kojncy 3a noc;ieatt>e
ABe iieueHHJe cbh H3 Toneina AOcejbeHH. Ha nocneTKy
HMa 4 MyxaMeaaHCKe Kyhe, oa kojhx cy ABe H3 TbaKOBHue, h jbyAHce6aBe6aKa;icKOM paAfoOM. jeAHa H3 FIpHiuthhc jeAHa H3 CKonjba. J[aHac HMa 3405 craHOBHHKa.
Mel)y AaHaujtoHM kocobckhm BapoujHMa flpuluiuima je HecyMtbHBO HajcTapnja h CMeiuTeHa y hctomhom Kpajy HajuiHpe kocobckc napTHJe. Ona je npaBa
KOcoBCKa BapoiiJ. y HdChoj 6;ih3hhh, Vk caxaT Ha jyry,
AH>Ke ce MaHacTHp TpanaHHua, Hajjienuia HeMa^HhcKa
3aAy>K6HHa Ha nyTy kojh oa npnuiTHHe boah 3a ByMHTpH HMa TparoBa oa upKBe CaMOApe)Ke. HiMet)y
flpniUTHHc h JIa6a 6n;ia ce KOCOBCKa 6nTKa, h Ha tom
:
265
nojby cy CBe TypcKe ycnoMeHe Ha KOCOBCKy 6HTKy.

OBne ce c /ieBe CTpaHe nyTa iuto boah 3a ByMHTpH
H3/I33H rpo6HHua cy/iT3H3 MypaTa
yaMHJa ca May30AeyMOM y komp cy caMO epue h yTpo6a MypaTOBa, a
Te.no je y jeAHOj usmhjh y BpycH. j 6/ih3hhh OBe rpo6HHue je zipyra npocra U3MHJ3 ca rpo6oM Ta3H-MeCTaH-6eja, MypaTOBa 3acraBHHKa, kojh je TaKolje norHHyo y kocobckom 6ojy."
ripHiiJTHHa je 6H/ia jeA3H on 3HaMeHHTHJnx rpaAOB3 y cpeAêBeKOBHOJ Cp6HJH. OHa 6eiue BHiue nyia
pe3HAeHUHJ3 cpncKHX Kpa^>eBa. Kpa/b Mn/iyTHH, CreBaH HewaHCKH, uap HyiuaH, a AOUHnje BpshkobhHh h
rpe6eâHOBHhH 63bh/ih cy ce h nncsAH noBejbe y
flpHUJTHHH. y flpHiuTHHH je CTaHOBao usp Hyuj3H roAHHe 1342, h T3A3 ce koa H>era 6aBHO Kao 6eryHau
BHjaHTHJcKH uap JoBaH KaHTaKy3eH, kojh FlpHiuTHHy
npHKa3yje Kao HeyTBpêHO ceAo c Kpa;beBCKOM nanatom. KaA je U,ap HyiuaH pe3HAHpao y flpHLUTHHH, y3
H>era je 6ho caBeT oa ABaAeceT h mcthph AOcrojaHCTBeHHKa, y mhjhm je Ae6aTa\ia yqecrBOBa/ia h uapnua
Je/ieHa. y FIphujthhh je 6wna Ay6poBaqKa KO/ioHnja,
Koja je Ap*a/ia noA 3aKyn uapHHy. HouHHJe je npHniTHHa 6H/ia npecTOHHua ByKa BpaHKOBHha. 3Ha ce
Aa je h y 17-om BCKy 6wna jeAHa oa 3HaivieHHTHJHX
BapoiuH, y kojoj je 6H/ia A\6poBaMKa Ko/ioHHJa h ynpaBa 06/iHHabHX MaJAaHa. y 18-om h 19-om BeKy 6n.ia
je MyBeHa 36or cbojhx naHa^ypa, Ha Koie cy AO/]a3HAH
TproBUH H3 Co/iyHa, JeApeHa, Ap6aHHJe, BocHe h Hniua.
y noneTKy 19-or BeKa 6n.ia je ct'AHLUTe KocoBCKor
Bn/iajeTa, Koje je AOUHHJe npeHeceHO y flpH3peH h
CKon/be.
B ripHiiiTHHa je Kpo3 CBe TypcKo BpeMe ao AaHac
6H/ia ceAHnue MyxaMeAaHCKHx 6eroBa kojh cy Ap>Ka;iH
3eMjbe Ha KocoBy
ochm jbhx 6hj\o je y npniiiTHHH
TypaKa 3anaT^HJa, kojh cy ce HapownTO 6aBH^H 3aHaTHMa KoibCKe onpeMe h KyjyHyn/iyKOM. Xn/b(|)epbhht je 1857 roA. 3a6e/ie>KHO Aa y ripHiiJTHHH HMa
1503 Kyha, oa kojhx 1200 MyxaMCAaHCKC, a 300 npaBocaaBHHX
nocneAibH ao 1820 toa. HHcy HMa/iH upKBC rio MOJHM 06aBeilITeihHMa je 19 lO roA. 6h/io y
:
HOBA GPBHJA
266
npHiiiTHHH oko 4.000 Kyha, or kojhx je 3.200 MyxaMeâHCKHX, 531 cpncKa Kyha, 6070 jeBpejcKHX, a
ocTaê UHraHCKe h qepKecKe. Mel)y MyxaMeaaHUHMa
HMa MHoro Myxaunpa' H3 CpSnje, a ocrajio cy Ap6aHacH H3 okojihhx cejia h npe;iy3HMJbHBH TbaKOBUH ca
TypuHMa Ep^Hj'aMa. Ho ôcejbaBaHba Myxaunpa h 0B,ne
je, Kao y FIpH3peHy, TproBHHa 6wia y
cpncKHM pyKaMa, a Typun cy )KHBe;iH or npHxoâ ca qH(j)jiHKa h
or 3aHaTa. Caâ cy 3HaTaH #eo TproBHHe npey3e;iH wyXaUHpH, HapOMHTO H3 HHUia H H3 JiecKOBua.
AjIH ripHLUTHHa HHje HaJB3>KHHJH TprOBHHCKH UCHTap Ha KocoBy. OHa je yaajBCHa or >Kejie3HHqKe npyre
78 KHJioivieTapa h npHimeBCKa je craHHua koa ceâ
Dio6onepHue. Hnje Ha iby ynyheHa hh Beha o6jiacr,
ochm JIa6a, KOMe je rjiaBHa nnjaija npniuTHHa, a npBa
jiOKajma FIoflyjeBO. Ha nocneTKy h npHuiTeBCKO crahobhhujtbo je no CKopa npeiiCTaBJbajio 4)aHaTH30BaHy
TypcKO-ap6aHaniKy Macy, HenpHJaTejbCKH pacncJio>KeHy
npeMa HOBHHaMa, na h npeMa H<e;ie3HHUH. Ajih FIpHiiiTHHa Hnan HMa 3Haqaj 36or noMeHyie, h ano c;ia6nje TproBHHe, Kao niaBHH auMHHHcrpaTHBHH ueHTap
Ha KocoBy. JlaHac HMa 18.174 ciaHOBHHKa.
BymiiupH je 6ho Bapoiu apHavTCKe aHapxnje, 3aio
je nope^ n>e >Kejie3HHua npouuia CKopo 6e3 HKaKBa
yTHuaja. H aKO je CTapo MecTO, ocra;io je c Ma/iHM
6pojeM cTaHOBHHiiiTBa. XHJbêp^HHr je 3a6e;ie>KHO rsl

y ByqHTpy HMa 400 Kyha, or kojhx cy 250 Kyha MyxaMeâHCKHx, a 150 cpncKHX. Flo T. CTaHKOBHhy je
6h;io y ByqHTpHy oko 1900 ro^HHe oko 800 Kyha, or kojhx cy 250 cpncKe, a ocra;ie MyxaMeâHCKe; MeijyTHM, no
MHTponojiHJCKOM cnHCKy or 1910. roA-, V ByqHTpHy HMa
caMO 210 cpncKHX Kyha. HaHac HMa 5749 craHOBHHKa.
MHoro
je BaacHHj'a
Muiupoeutâ, Koja
je join
1871
6nâ ceô ca 150 Kyha câMapa. XHJbêp^HHr je 1857

3a6e/ie>KHO jxa je MnTpoBHua He3HaTHO mccto, Maâ
or ByqHTpHa. nocra/ia je naj>KHBJbe kocobcko MecTO
or KaKo je carpalêHa KocoBCKa >Kejie3HHua. rio Jppen-y
je y Mhtpobhuh oko 1890 6h;io 21000 CTaHOBHHKa,
or kojhx cy 16.000 MyxaMeâHUH, a ocra;io norviaBHTo
Cp6n, c Ma/iHM 6pojeM Bâxa h TpKa. Me^ytHM ca.ua
KOCOBCKA
CTAl'A CPBHJA
y Mhtpobhuh HMa oko 1100 Kyha, on kojhx cy, npeivia

MHTponO/IHJCKHM CnHCKOBHMa 180 Kyha npaBOCTiaBHHX
Cp6a, HCTHHa Aocra 3aapy>KHe, a ocTaê cy MyxaMeaancKe. Meljy MyxaMeâHUHMa HMa Bp/io 3HaTaH 6poj
Myxaynpa H3 Bocne h XepueroBHHe, Kojii h cazia roBope cpncKHM j'g3hkom h HHHe HaJBehy Maxa.iy y ceBepHOM Ae/iy MnipoBHue. H.via ôcra h ApHayia H3
Cp6HJe. MHTpoBHua je 3HaTH0 bojhhmko mccto h rap-
HH30H ce mhtpobhmkh necm nette no 10 000 Jbynu.

MmpoBHua je non 3BeHaHOM, ao6po oqyBaHHM
rpaôM, kojh je BehH on Hobot Bp/ia, TBptje on ft>era
3H;iaH, h 6ho je jezma on npecroHHua cna>KHe HeMatbHhcKe iiHHacTHJe. Bapoiu je nocipojeHa H3Met)y H6pa
h CHTHHue, a Kpo3 ity npoTHne pewnua ,'byuna. OCHOBaHa y HajceBepHHieM zie/iy KocoBa, r\ae ce 3aBpujyje >Ke/ie3HHua h oziaK/ie nonHtbe 6ocaHCKH nyi\ 0Ha
je craHHua 3a yB03 h H3B03 3HaTHHx o6;iacTH. Ha H>y
cy ynyheHH He caMO crapn Ko/iaujHH h MeTOXHJa ca
FlehH, Beh h 3HaTHH zie/iOBH ceBepHor KocoBa h n6ap<
CKe zio/iHHe.
Ha nocneTKy,
HaJBa>KHnje je to iuto je
Mh-
TpoBHua yB03Ha h H3B03Ha cTaHHua HoBona3apCKor CaHMaKa. 3aTO OHa noaraje r.iaBno TproBaMKo Mecro Ha KocoBy, c kojhm ce jouj je^HHO OepH30BHh MO>Ke y 6ynyhHOCTH TaKMHMHTH. u HaHaC HMa 9354 CTaHOBHHKa.
BcmcKy npxay, 3 caia Ha ceBep on KocoBCKe MhTpoBHue, carpanno je 3a na^rpodHy upKBy Kpajb Mh.lyTHH oko 1315 r. fIo cbojhm aocra bcjihkhm nnMeHcnjaMa, no tcxhhhkoj caBpuiCHOCTH, no /ienoTH pa3Mepa, no 6oraTCTBy opuaMeHTHKe, no apxHTeKTOHCKHM
o6/inuHMa, HajcaBpiueHHJe h najnpeuH3HHJe H3BezieHHM,
no /ieno CMHUj/benHM h opnrHHa/iHHM KanHTe^HMa, 0By
rpal)eBHny CTaB^>aM Ha npBO Medo on bhx rpafyeBHHa
y poMaHCKOM CTH/iy no^nrHyTHX Ha cpncKOM 3eM/bHUJTy"
(A. CTcc{)aHOBHh). Oil zipyrnx cpncKHX rpaljeBHHa pa3.iHKyje ce obhm: Ky6e Behnx pa3Mepa ho non ocra/inx
cpncKHX upKaBa, n.iHTKO, h 3axBaia CKopo ue;iy hjh(,
pHHy rpal]eBHHe. Cno/bHH 3HAOBH onyrTianaHor KaMena

y Tpn 6oje: 6e;ic, upBeHe h Moupe, Koje cy HaH3Mehhmho nopeâne. Ho no/ia cpyiueHa. rio npe;iart>y y
noHeTKy 15 BeKa npeTBopeHa y uaMHJy, h Aanic ce
bhah MHHape AeÔM nopyiueHO.
HOBA CPBHJA
268
BapoiiiH 3a6aieHor nojiowaja.
JIena je BapouiHua rn>ujiaHe> ckohomckh ueHTap

ropH>e h JXoihe MopaBe. rpbHJiaHe je HOBa Bapoui.
OcHOBao ra oko 1750 roA. BaxTH6er I^HHHh, Ha Medy
CTapora MaHacnipa cb. JoBaHa, Koje je 6n.no MonapHO,
h no TOMe je rtt>H;iaHe HMe ao6hao (T. GranKOBHh,
Uht. actio, c. 2.). CeAHiuTe je TypCKHx 6eroBa kojh
Ap>Ke njiouHe MopaBCKe 3eMJbe. Caâ y HfeHJiaHyHMa
oko 1000 nyha, oa kojhx cy 407 cpncne, a ocra;ie MyxaMcaaHCKe. HeKH oa MyxaivieAaHaua cy AoceJbeHH c
HoBOr BpAa, y KOMe je 3a BpeMe JacTpe6oBêBnx nyTOBaHDa 6hao join 30 MyxaMcaaHCKnx nyha. OcrajiH MyxaMeziaHUH cy no T. CraHKOBHhy (Uht. actio, c. 8) ApHayTauin cpncne KpBH. XUnac HMa 7.767 ciaHOBHHKa.
H Ja*>e8o ce no no;io>Kajy MO)Ke panyHaTH y kocoBCKe BapoujH, a;iH je 3ace6Hora >KHBOTa h pa.ua, HHJe
aoahphvto hobhm KOMyHHKauHJaMa, h npeACTaBJba y
MHoroM noivieAy pyAHMeHTHy Bapoui.

OHa je caâ y Ay6oKoj aoahhh JaibeBKe, y Techom no;io>Kajy oko Kora ce AH>Ky roâ 6pAa, h njiaBHHe HdHxobhx noTOKa 3acnnajy Bapoin. OBa ce Ae/iH
Ha Maxa/ie: Je3epue, BHpoBue, TypcKy Maxa-ny, DiaMy,
JXoiby h TopHoy Maxa/iy, ConoT h ria^KHh. JaiteBUH
TBpê Aa oho paHHJe Hnje 6hao Ha obom MecTy, Beh
H3Mel]y 6pna BopcnHHa h CypH>eBHue, h ohh to MecTO
30By CTapo JafoeBO. fIpnMajy Aa cy CTapo Jan>eBO
ocHOBa^H pyâpH, OHAa KaA ce rpaAHAa upKBa TpaHaHHua. PaceJbeHO je 36or 3y;iyMa, h npnqajy 3a ABa noKojba Koja cy ApHayTH npnpeAHAH y Crapoivi JaibeBy.
Ha AaHaujH>e MecTO Aocejiww cy ce 36or to a luto
cy OBê 6Hê Kyjie hckhx chahhx 6eroBa CnaxnJHha,
Te cy nx obh 3ainTHhaBa/iH.
y 1910 roA- 6hao je (KaA caM TaMO no Apyrn nyT
6ho) 515 Kyha, oa kojhx cy 400 KamnHMKnx Cp6a hah
JlaTHHa" (KaKO hx npaBOG/iaBHH 30By), 75 Kyha ApHayTa h ApHayTaina, 20 Kyha Myxanwpa H3 Cp6nje, 2
Kyhe TypaKa UlaM/inja (h3 LUaivia, M. A3HJa) h oko 18
Kyha MyxaMe^HHCKHX UnraHa. Kyhe cy no npaBHAy hhoKocne, y 2 3 HaJMHorojbyAHHJe HMa ao 15 Ayina.
Meljy ,,/laTHHHMa" (obh npaBOcnaBHe 30By Baa-
KOCOBCKA
TAFA LFbHJA
CHMa) RBe nopoiiHiie cy crapHHanKe, Oce;beHe H3 Crapor JatfceBa, h 6poje 110 K>ha. Te RBe nopoAHue cy
TâcuHOBHhH H na/inhn. Ocra/iH cy CTapn aoce/bCHHUH,
CTapHjH or 200 ro^HHa. HaJBHiue hx je ;joce:beHO npe
300 FoûMa ', h to 4 nopoAnue ca 7y Kyha, h npe
250 roziHHa", h to 4 nopo^Hue ca 40 Kyha. HajM/iatja je
je/iHa nopo^Hua ca 7 Kyha, ôct.beHa npe 200 rojHHa".
Ochm noMeHyTHx nopoiiHua H3 Crapor JameBa, ocra/in
cy zioceêHH H3 obhx KpaieBa:
HaJBHiue hx je H3 TpaMaHHue y Bochh 2 nopo;iHue ca 62 Kyhe. 3aTHM ROJiaie KaTO/inun or (j)nca
BepH a, aoce/beHH H3 Ma/iHcnje, h to jc^Ha nopoaûa
ca 34 Kyhe. Hi KpaTOBa cy aocejbeHe abc nopo^Mue,
Oil kojhx ce pa3rpanaTHj'a 30Be Tni6apn, h 3Haiy Ra cy
rowjih Kao pyiiapH. H3 Fkhn cy aoce/beHe 2 nopoAHue ca 25 Kvha, H3 ripH3peHa 1 noponnua ca 17 Kyha,
H3 Ckoiickc UpHe Tope 2 nopo^Hue ca 15 Kyha H3
CKon/ba 1 ca 12 Kyha. Ochm H3 Bochc, ca ceBepo-sana/ia cy aoce/beHe h OBe nopoziHue: H3 Ckajipa 1 ca
11 Kyha, H3 Ha/iMauHJe 1 ca 16 Kyha, h ca LI_InpoKor
Bpniera y XopueroBHHH 1 ca 18 K>ha Hc3HaTaH je
6poj Kyha Heno3HaTor nopeK/ia. Ymhtc^j ByKa^HH flonoBnh H3 TyujTipnue ,ap>KH Ra cy OHe H3 obhx KpajeBa, MO>Kiia H3 HoBor Bpna.
IlpaBocâBHH Cp6n H3 oko^hhc TBpê Ra cy MHore
-
npaBocnaBue
h R3 cy ce iiouHHje noKaTo/iHMH/ie 3a BpeMe l.lHHOBhha,
kojh cy c/iomh/ih Moh CiiaxHJnha; noKaTO^HMH^H cy ce
Be/ie 36or Tora ujto cy Time 6h.th 60/be 3aujTHheHH
OR HaCHJba. Mct)\THM, KaKO Ce H3 H3/IO>KeHOr BHJH. ,10ce/bCHnun cy blIihhom h3 MecTa h KpajeBa y KoJHMa
je 6h;io h/ih momo 6hth KaTO^HKa. A/in HiMeja necyMibHBO Ra je ro Kpaja 18 BeKa 6h;io y JameBy npaBdc.iaBHiix. jcp je nodoja/ia npaBOc/iaBtia upKBa Cb.
Hhko/r-; na it.mn.M TeneJbHlia je ,inrnyTa naHaujma KaTo^HMha upKBa. Ha/be je y O.ihjmhh JaibeBa na aeCHOJ
CTpanH rpaqaHKC mime ccia BdôBua 6mo npaBoci mmi
MaHacTHp H.;j H.ioBHua. kojm je onycTeo TeK 1762 ro^HHe (Tl. KocTnh, CnoMCHHK Cpn. Kpa;b. AxajieMije
or obhx nopo^Hua npn aocejbaBamy
XLLX,
c.
:*6.-49).
6H/ie
HOBA CPbMJA
ApHayTa h ApHayiaina HMa 70 Kyha, h to iiomhibaTHx CnaxHJHha 20 Kyha, Tama 24 Kyhe, or (J)Hca
Con 23 Kyhe, h nopo/urne HeKpnha 8 Kyha. FIoMeHythx 20 Kyha Myxaijnpa .nocejbeHe cy nocne 1878 roA.
H3 Cp6HJe.
no
3aHHMatby je JatbeBO pynHMeHTHa Bapoinjep

cy ce y iteMy oqyBajiH nocjienttH ocrauH MeTajiHe HH^ydpHJe HoBora Bpjxa. Or Tyqn JiHj'y KaHnn/ia, CBehttaKe,
rpHBHe, npcTett>e, h HaponHTO MHoro KpcTOBa, h npo#ajy hx no KocoBy, Mctoxhjh h npH3peHCKOJ oko^hhh,
3aTHM no Cp6njn, ByrapcKOJ h RiauiKOJ. PaHnje cy
nyTOBa/i'i h npoaaBa/in CBOJe H3paijeBHHe h no cboj
MaKeaoHHJH ro CojiyHa. J\ajbe y MacaMa, a;iH HeyKycho H3patjyjy no KyhaMa aceHCKy HoniHDy h pa3HOBpCHe y6pyce, Koje npoâjy no KocoBy, h noTHCKyjy yKyCHy KocoBCKy Homtby, Koja CKyno craje. HnaK cy peTKH
HMyhHHJH JaHDeBUH.
Meljy npe3HMeHHMa npeoBJial)yjy npe3HMeHa 3a-
na^HHx KpajeBa."
Hobo Epao.
Hobo
Bpzio, ztaHac ceoue or 6 6e;uMx h CHpoMauije caMO no cbojoj npoui;iocTH. y ,npyroj no;ioBHHH 14 h y npBOJ no;ioBHHH 15 BeKa 6h;io
hhx Kyha, Ba>KHO
je^HO on HaJ3HaMeHHTHjnx Mecra y cpcatbeBeKOBHOJ

Cp6njn. FIoa cpncKy BJiacr aolujio je ac(})hhhthbho
roAHHe 1282, 3a BpeMe KDajba Mn;iyTHHa. Kao Tpr
nojaB^yje ce npBH nyT rojxHHe 1325. Taâ ra je 6no
3aKynno ,Hy6poBMaHHH riacKOje TyqeTHh. HoijHHJe y
HbeMy cTa^HO >khbh AyGpoBaMKa KOJiOHHJa. riopeA foe
6una je h MJieTanKa Ko/ionHja, Koja je KynoBaâ n/ieMeHHTe Meiaê h cnajia hx y MêTKe. Ajih or cbhx
Haj3HaqaJHHja je 6nna cacKa KOJiOHnja, jep cy Caen
6h/ih pyaapn. CacKa KOJiOHHJa HMajia je h CBOj'y 6oroMOJby, a Caoi cy y Hobom Bpay ocrajiH HaK ro 16
BeKa, TaKo aa cy ra hckh nyTHHUH y 16. BeKy Ha3H-
je
HeMaHKOM KOJIOHHJOM.
OKOJIHHH HoBOr BpiU y orpOMHHM KOJIHHHHaMa
Konaô cpe6po h 3/iaTO. KoHCTaHTHH <>h/io30(}) Ha-
Ba/IH
ce
KOCOBCKA CTAFA CPbHJA
271
3HBa ra rpan cpe6peHH y HCTHHy h 3.iaTHH u O 60racTBy hobo6p;kkhx py/uiHKa nocroja/ie cy y 3anaAhoj EBponH npaBe 6ajKe, h Hobo BpAO npe/KTaB/ba/io
je je^Hy or HaJ3HaMeHHTHJnx BapoiuH y yHyTpaujibocth Ba.TKaHCKor no/iyocrpBa. Kotihko je 6h.to ueibeHO
y BpeMe KHe3a J4a3apa, bh^h ce na;6o/be no TOMe luto
je Ha CBOJe HOBue cTaBJbao
noiriHc: Novamontana
moneta argentea". HaJBehe CBoje pa3BHhe ;iocTH>Ke
noA BâiioM HecnoTa CreB;iHa H Toypâ, Kaâ je HMa/10
oko 40.000 CTaHOBHHKa. PyAapcTBO 6eiue hcoGhmho
pa3BHjeH0, a TproBHHa Heo6HMHo >KHBa. y FbeMy >khb:baxy JlyOpoBMaHH, Ta^njaHH, CacH h cpncKa B/iacre/ia.
Ha \h ao/iawaxy TproBUH ca cbhx cipaiia, h y ibeMy
ce Moraxy nyTH npBe hobocth. Heh y noneTKy 15
Bena 6enie je^HO or Haj6o/be yTBptjeHHx MecTa, h H3np>Ka MHoro6poJHe Hanane. FIpBH Hana^ H3iip>Ka 1412,
a zipyrn 1427 ro^HHe. 06a nyTa ojiGpaHHiue ra Cp6H,
y3 3HaTny noMoti KO/iomicTa. floc/ie nana CMeêpeBa
Hobo Bp :o ce ;ip>Ka/io TpH roiiHHe na.io je 1441
inn cerenHHCKHM MHpoM 6h BpaheHo oneT Cp6nMa.
To^HHe 1455 cy/naH Myxar.iej II onKO/iH Hobo Bpô,
rpan ce nocne 'ieTpneceT aaHa npejiaae, tberoBO crahobhhluto 6h caceweno h pacnpo,naHO. a iberoBO 60racTBO pa3neceHO. TVivie Hobo Bp0 nponaê nomyHO.
y3a^y;i ce TypuH Tpyljaxy #a ra noAHTHy Ha HeniaiiJiby
BHCHny. Oho ce bhujc HHKa;i ne nonpaiiH. V npijoj
no.ioBHHH 17 Bena pa;; y pyaHHUHivia HHje 6ho npedao. y to Bpe.Me no.ioBiiHa TypcKor cpeGpnor HOBua
KOBaHa je oa cpe6pa Koje je i'>GHBaHo H3 HOBo6p ackhx py^HHKa. Bapoiu caMa HMa/ia je CBera 200 Kyha,
Mel)y KOJuMa je 6h/io 100 TypcKHx h jcnpejCKux. y
Apyroj fio/iobhhh hctot BCKa Hobo Bpô je HMa/10
cBt-ra 10 nyha, a y TypcKO-aycTpnjcKHM paTOBHMa roAHHe 1689 cnoMHibe ce ca\io nao rpaAwh. To nponaaaibe nacTaB.i.eno je y 18-om 11 19-om BCKy.
y iUHaujibeM Hobom Spay h h>ltoboj 6.ih>koj
okojihhh Mnoro6pojHH cy TparoBH on ner\aaiinbc iberoBe bcih'ihhc h pyâpcKor paâ. TaKO, Ha npuMep,
Ha ccBcpy oa Jaibc-Ba, H3Mel)y KypeniujTa h CTpa>Ke.
IlBHjwh je npoMaipao jciaHaecr rpyna ojfl pyaapcKHx
.
<
272
HOBA CPBHJA
OKaHa h noTKona. OKHHMa ce cna3n y HarhyTe, MaxoM

Kpahe noTKone. y Kojwvia ce pacno3Hajy ype3H h yaapuH
qeKHha. Ochm Tora HMa jeHAeKa, 5 ao 6 MeTapa Ay6okhx, kojh Hjty no 3eMJbH. To cy ocraun pyAapcKor
paaa kojh ce KpeTao y npaBijy pyAHHx Hoiua, Koje
HHcy 3a.na3H/ie y Ay6nHy.
Ha caMOM Hobom BpAy BHAe ce MHora OKHa,
noTKonw h 3aKonHHe, HapoHHTO Ha Ma;ioj h BeJiHKOJ
nâHHHH, oko ce;ia BocraHa, y Khcckom FIoTOKy h
Ha MecTy PaBHHiDTy. nopeA Tora Ha/ia3H ce MHora
TpocKBa y TpHHqeBuy, KpajbeBoj Peun, h noA JlemTapeM. HcnHTyjyhH KOMaAe TpocKBe, KOHCTaTOBaHO je
Aa y H>oj HMa HajBHUie >KeJie3a, a ociaô je MaHraH, uhhk,
ca HeiHTO o-aoBa h cyMnopa. HMa MHoro h pyAapcKHX
Ky/ia, h to y Jleinjy, Ha Bpx Be/iHKe UmuuHe, y KpHBOJ
Pcuh. Pa3Ba^HHe oa rpana h TparoBH oa BapouiH cy
Ha bhchhh oa 1100 ao 1 120 Mdapa. Hobo6packh rpaA
je Ao6po onyBaH. Ca cbhx CTpaHa rpaâ BHAe ce mhoro6pojHH TeMeJbH oa Kyha, Koje cy 6H/ie, KaKO H3Me.ua,
3roMHâHe 6e3 npaBn/iHHX yjiHua. DiaBHH Aeo BapouiH
je oko y3BHuien>a Koje ce cana 30Be Banp. Ha HeMy
je 6n;ia upKBa Cb. neTKa, Koja je y uaMHJy npeTBOpeHa. HMajy joui pa3Ba/iHHe oa mcthph upKBe, Koje ce
pacno3Hajy no npenpaTH h o^Tapy. y 6;ih3.ihh rpaAa
cy ABa Be^HKa h Bp;io CTapa jaBopa, TaKotje H3 c/iaBHor cpncKor Ao6a.
TpH Haj3HawajHHja cnoMeHHKa dape cpncue Kyjuype.
Tpn Haj6ojbe onyBaHa h HajiHanaJHHJa cnoMeHHKa CTape cpncKe yMeTHOCTH, Haj3HaMeHHTHJa 6ap y
Kocobckoj Crapoj Cp6nJH, BpeAe Aa ce noce6HO onnuiy
h npHKaH<y.
rjaiupujapiuuja y
nehn
npocTpaHa, ajin HHCKa.

ApxHTeKTypa joj npnnaAa BpeMeHy KaAa je cpncna cpeAHDeBeKOBHa yMeTHOCT 6H/ia none;ia onaAaTH. FIpBodHTHy
3rpaAy 6ho je noAHrao Apyrn cpncKH apxnenncKon,
yqeHHK Cb. CaBe, Cb. ApceHHJe y 13 BCKy. nopeATora,
OHa je y BHine MaxoBa o6HaBJbaHa h Aorpat]HBaHa.
XpaM HMa o6;ihk neTBOpoyraHHKa, c Ma^HM, yKpurreje
hhm
273
BhiCTynaMH", h cacTOJH ce H3 OBa HeTHpH zejia:

Be/iHKe npenpaie, Be/iHKe cpe^Hie upKBe rocnoflHaer
Bo3HeceH>a, jy>KHor ..npHflt.aa" (cnope^Hor o/uapa)
npecBeie BoropoziHue h ceBepHor o;napa Cb. ZIhmhTpHJa. H3Ha^ o/uapa Be/inne upKBe jwxie ce uiHpoKO
h npn/iHHHo cn/bouiTeHO Ky6e, Koje je noKpHBeHO o/iobom. Hcto TaKO H3Ha 06a cnope^Ha o/uapa AHwy
ce join ABa Maiba KydeTa. Ta TpH Ky6eTa doje 36hjeHa \ejxno no apyrora h HMajy cno/ba TOKan h 3Aenacr
H3rnen. YHyTpa naK aajy npeKpacaH ecJ)eKaT, HapoMHTO
36or jane cBeT/iocrH iijto npo6nja Kpo3 MHoro6poJHa
Be^HKa oKHa Koja 3ay3HMajy cKopo ueo 6omhh neo
Ky6eia.
TpH waca aa/ieKo oa naxpHJapiuHJe, Ha H3/ia3y
KTiHcypacre ao/iHHe JleMaHCKe BncTpnue, Ha nonHOH<jy
MeTOXHJCKHx n/iaHHHa, na/ia3H cc MciHCicuiup Uenanii,
hjih Bucoku JJenaHU, HajcviaBHHJa 3aay>K6HHa Be/iHKe
cpncKe npoujôcTH h ibeHe Ky/nype. To je cpncKa uapCKa 3a;iy>K6HHa M na je Jbenuje y CBHJeiy HeMa". PycKH
KOHcy/i Xn/bêpaHHr mhcih na cy Bhcokh HenaHH
naj.ieniUH h HaJ3HaMeHHTHJH cpncKH MaHacTHp, Haj6o;bH
cnoMeHHK cpncKe Be/iHMHHe h no6o>KHOCTH, kojh ce MO>Ke
y6pojaTH Me^y HajcaBpujeHHJa jie/ia BH3aHTHJCKe yMeThocth. rpaAHO ra je 1323
1330 Majdop Bnê KoTOpahhh. TpaêHH cy y po.viaHCKOM CTH.ny. UpKBa je roêMa
h BHCOKa, H3pafjena y o6.iHKy npcra, ca je^HHM OKpyivihm h bhcokhm Ky6eTOM. CaMa iheHa cno;baujHOCT
Xn/bcJjepiiHHra je nopa>KaBa.ia cbojom HeodHHHOM .ienoTOM. CnoâiHibH 3haobh on AO/ie no rope cacroje
ce on MpaMopHHx n.ioMa Koje cy npaBH^HO pacnopel)eHe y xopH30HTa/iHHM peÔBUMa, on kojhx je Hajhh>kh Oil 6e/iora MpaMopa, ApyrH on py>KHMacTor, Tpelin
oneT on 6e/iora, mctbpth on cypora
nocyie Tora nahobo ce H3Meibyje hcth hh3 6oja. KpoB upkbchh je on
o/ioBa. H Ky6e'je noKpHBeno o/iobom, Koje je TaKO Machbho Aa, KaKOce npHMa, HHJe Tpe6a;io noKpHBaTH Ky6e
join on roAHHe 1335 Kaiia je npBH nyT nonpHBeHO.
Hon ^yrHM yTHuajeM BpeMena to je o.iobo o6h.io
6ojy Koja Ha^HMH na cjaj 6aKpa. Ha Ky6eiy ctojh Be.ihkh npacTapn Kpd H3 MacHBHora cpe6pa. Ma hctomB
'
MOBA CPBHJA
HOBA CPBHJA
274
y ohh OKpyniHHa BejiHKor ojrrapa,

nopeji H>era OKpyniHHe Koje npHnaâjy cnopeflHHM
O^TapHMa CB HHKOJie H Cb. JiHMHTpHJa, npOCKOMHAhjh Be/iHKor o;iTapa h ph3hhuh. Tux neT cjeAHfbeHHX
hoj
CTpaHH
na.ua
OKpyrviHHa npeAcraBJbajy Heo6HHHO Jieno cjeAHtbaBafbe

jiHHHJa.
Ha cpe^HHH Be^HKor
o;rrapa je HanHfeeHO Be-
JIHKO OKHO, H3Ha^ KOra Ce BHIH OJIOBHH KpOB

TO
okho je ca dpaHa yKpameHO ca Ba Matta MpaMopHa
CTy6a, Koje cbojhm jietjHMa no^p>KaBajy KapnjaTHAe
;
Koje HMajy o6/ihk 3rp6jbeHa HOBeKa. Ha# cpeAHHOM

OKHa H3paljeHa je jby^cKa rviaBa H3 mhjhx ycTa H3;ia3H
BHHOBa Ji03a Koja ce jienn Ha #Be rpaHe Koje cy c aecHa
h c ;ieBa cn/ieieHe oko OKHa. y jio3obom jinny canpHBeHe cy nTHue h (J)aHTacTHHHe >KHBOTHH>e, yMeTHHHKH
H3BajaHe. UpKBa HMa Tpoja BpaTa, or koj'hx ce jeflHa
Haâ3e Ha sana/uioj CTpaHH, y cJ)acaAH upKBeHe npenpaTe, a Apyra aBoja cy ca ceBepHe h jyauie CTpaHe
Te npenpaie. H3Ha^ CBaKHx Bpaia y KaMeHy je ncrecaH OKpyrviH cboî kojh ce cyatyje y hcko^hko MaxoBa,
Tano Aa thm o6pa3yje hcko^hko npimbeHOBa. CsaKH

oil thx npujjbeHOBa onHpe ce o Man>H MpaMopHH cry6.
H CBaKH or thx npnjjbeHOBa yKpauieH je HapoHHTHM pejbe(j)HMa y KOJHMa cy npe#CTaBJbeHe bhhobc Ji03e, JiHmhe
c HBeheM, cnnpajie h TaHKH >K;ie6oBH. Ha ceBepHHM
BpaTHMa, cTy6oBH npBor pe.ua kojh Apace npinjbeHOBe
o6aBHJeHH cy bhhobom ;i030M, CTy6oBH apyrora peâ cy
OKpyr/iH, Tpehera H3yBHJaHH, qeTBpTora cy HeTBopoyraoHH, neTor ocMoyraoHH. KanHTe;iH thx cry6oBa cy
KopHHTCKor CTHâ. Oihmho je h Ha .npyrnM CTy60BHMa.
UpKBa je y ochobh Tpo6po;ma, HMa, Kao ujto cmo bhae/iH, Tpn o/iTapa, ynpaBO TpH upKBe, or koj'hx je
cpett>a HajiHHpa; Ta HMa h HKOHOcrac oji 6e;ior MpaMopa kojh je no,nejbeH Ha neT no;ba. CTy6oBH kojh
jiene 6poôBe yrvianaHH cy h HMajy poMaHCKe KannTe;ie. Cry6oBH cy bhcokh 7.34 m., a upKBa or noiia #0
ocHOBHue Ky6eTa 19 MeTapa, a no Bpxa Ky6eTa 25 MeTapa. Ilpo30pH cy jeHO.n e;bHH, ABO/iejbHH h Tpcae/bHH,
TexHHHKa npeuH3HOCT Moace ce MepHTH c jiaHaiuibOM
TexHHKOM. TpoAe/bHH oJiTapcKH npo3op HaflMainyje cboJOM JienQTQM, BCTCHHHHOM H 6oraCTBOM opHaMeHTHKe H
%
CTAPA FALUKA
CBa opHaMeHTHKa HMa poMaHCKH KapaKTep, H3 Mera ce \io>Ke biucth n$ cy ce

TparoBH peHecanca, kojh ce y noêTKy 15 BeKa tck
no4eo y Hra;iHJH pa3BHJaTH, occth/ih h Ha cpncKOM
jyBeHH CTyêHMMKH npo3op.
I pa iaHiiu,a, aoBptueHa 1321 ro^HHe, HMa neT Ky6eia. flopeA r/iaBHe upKBe HMajy Ane napaK-ince, Koje,
Kdm ce ivieiiajy c no;ba, wHHe jeaHy uê/inny Ha^ yîa30M Ha bhchhh cnpaTa Ha/ia3H ce Kane/inua Kpa;ba
Mn/iyTHHa. n.iaTHa c no^>a cy on TecaHor KaMena, no/io>KeHa y peOBe H3Mel)y Ba, i\aerae Tpn peAa oneKa,
TaKO aa ce H3Meibyje upBeHa 6oja oneKa ca 6e/iHMacroM 6ojom ;iena h CHBO-3e/]eHKacroM 6ojom KaMeHa.
Ky6eTa cy c no:ba ocHOBe ocMOCTpaHor npaBH-nnor no/inroHa, a Ha npeceuHMa dpaHa cy OKpyr/iH cry6HhH
kojh cy, Kao h 3h40BH Ky6eia, on mhcthx npaBH/wo
Be3aHHx oneKa, noje ce cMen>yjy c oe/iHwacTHM cnojeBHMa ziena. XopH30HTa/iHH h ziyMHH bchuh 3HjiOBa,
Kao h ziyMHH bchuh Ky6eTa, H3BeAeHH cy H3 no TpH
i
cjioja HHK-uaK n.'boiHTHMHue no/iowemix

CBe aaje rpal)eBHHH oco6chh KapaKTep.
Ilpo3opH Ky6eTa cy jeAnoae:bHH, a Ha 3HOBHMa cy
^BOAe.l>HH H TpOJieJbHH. Ha JbOJ HeMa CKOpO HHKaKBHX
nâcTHHHHx opHaMeHaia. OHa ce Mowe y3eTH Kao npHMepaK apxHTeKTOHCKO-ecTeTHMKor caBpmeHCTBa, h to
36or nennx o6/iHKa Ky6eTa, bhtkhx pa3Mepa ue.ie rpaêBHHe, 36or CBor KOHceKBCHTHO H3BeAeHor opraHCKor
CK-nona, h 36or hcoChmho CHMnaTHMne xapMOHH'uie ue/IHHC UpKBy py>KH rOAHHe 1570 npHMHTHBHO 03H-
h.ih
MeTHpn
oneKa,
iijto
AaHa npenpaTa.
XI.
C1APA
PA11IKA.
Ha ceBepo3ana,ay on KocoBa rio;ba Hacraje n/iaHHHa Poro3Ha, Koja noMHibe on BaibCKe bhujc MHTpoBHue h npvwa ce no HoBor Fla3apa. To je npocrpana
h n/iehaTa nâHHHa. Koja OABaja npocrpane KVTAHUt
CTape Cp6HJe on KpiuenHTHx h n/ianmiCKHX 06/iacrH
276
HOBA CPbHJA
3ana^HHx cpncKHX 3eMajba. OHa RZKjie mhhh ouiTpy

rpaHHuy y TepeHCKOJ nâcTHUH cpncKHX 3eMajba.
Ha 3ana,ay h ceBepy on Poro3He Hacrajy o6;iacTM
Ciape PaiuKe h;ih HoBona3apcKor CaHuaKa, Koje ce
h no cbom cnojbHDeM H3i7ie,ny, no k^hmh h BpcTaMa
6njba, no npHBpejjH h HapoiiHOM acHBOTy 3HaTHO pa3^HKyje
ojol cbhx ôcaâuiHDHx

o6;iacTH HoBe Cp6nje.
Ha npBOM Medy na.ua y ohh ujto OBne HeMa OHaKO
npodpaHHx h paBHHx KOT^HHa Beh ue/iy o6;iacT 3ay-
3HMajy BHCOKe KpuieBHTe nâHHHe Koje cy y BeHue

3rpynHcaHe, a 3aTHM ncnpeceuaHe y6oKHM, KjwcypaCTHM H TeUJKO npOXO.ZI.HHM pe^HHM OJIHHaMa y KOJHMa
ce caMO peije jaBJbajy He3HaTHnja npomnpefoa h 3apaBHH. 36or TaKe n;iacTHKe Crapa Paiuna h no cbojoj kjihmh h no Hapoimoj npHBpcuH hhhh jeAHy npH-
po^Hy ue^HHy
3ana^HHM cpncKHM 3eivubaMa, Hapowro

Uphom TopoM, XepueroBHHOM, Jy>KHOM h 3anaAH0M
Bochom h Zla^MauHJOM. riope^ obhx npHpo^HHx pa3^HKa Koje ce oceTe Kan H3 KocoBa npe;ia3HMO npeKO
Poro3He, on Be^HKor cy 3Haqaja h eTHorpa(j)CKe pa3;iHKe Koje cy ourrpo H3pa)KeHe c o6e CTpaHe Poro3He.
Jy>KHO h hctomho on Poro3He je odâcT MOpaBCKOBapnapcKHx Cp6a, a Ha 3anany on n>e HCHBe Tano3BaHH flHHapCKH Cp6n, KOJH BehHHOM TOB.Ope jy)KHHM
HapenjeM, kojh cy HapoMHTo pa3Bn;iH Hamy encny noe3njy, h kojh cy 3a nocaeiiFbHx cto no ABecra roijHHa Ha
cpncKy HCTOpujy Hajjane yTHua^H, npH qeiviy cy y jaBHH
>khbot cpncKor Hapo.ua, HapoHHTO y n>eroBy ayxoBHy
Ky^Typy, yHe;w nyHO CBor cxBaTatba, cbojhx cneuHajihhx ocehatba h CBora 6yJHor TeMnepaMeHTa. Uopen
OBora, Poro3Ha je h 36or Tora Ba>KHa eTHorpa(J)CKa
rpaHHua ujto Ha 3ana,ny on H>e Hacrajy o6;iacTH y kojHMa je npouec acHMH/iaunje, npouec nocp6jbaBaH>a h
nocnoBett>HBaH>a 6ho Tano jaK na Ha ue;ioj o6;iacrH
Koja noHHH>e on Poro3He, KonaoHHKa h MopaBe h
Koja ce npy>Ka no CaBe h Ja^paHCKor Mopa, HeMa
CKopo HHKaKBa apyror Hapoâ ceM cpncKor h;ih cpncKOxpBaTCKor. Oa ohhx 3HaTHHx Maca pOMaHCKor craHOBHHiiJTBa Koje je y cpeAH>eM Beny >KHBe;io no upHOropcKHM, xepueroBaMKHM, 6ocaHCKHM h Aa^MamHCKHM
ca
CTAPA PAUJKA
277
nâHHHaMa, 3aTHM no npHMopcKHM BapoujHMa, AaHac

CKopo HeMa hh Tpara. CBe je to nocp6.êHO h noxpBaheHo. flBe cy cpncKe 3eM/be HaponHTO 3ac.iy>KHe y
TOMe lino je Taj aeo cpncKor Hapo,na 6ho Tano eKcnaHCHBaH, n/ioaaH H jaK. To cy ROcanaum>a IipHa Topa,
XepueroBHHa, a c ?bHMa h CTapa PaiuKa, Koje cy Hace/iH;ie BehH eo 3ana^HHX 3eMa/ba, Koje cy paujHpHJie
yTHuaje jy>KHor ^HaêKTa Ha ue/ioj o6;iacTH H3Mef)y
MopaBe h Ja^paHCKor Mopa. flope/i obhx MOMeHaTa
Poro3Ha je Ba>KHa 36or Tora ujto Ha 3anay h Ha ceBepy oji ibe npecraje Ha^npaFbe ap6aHaiHKor crceMeHTa
y cpncne 06/iacrH. HHHapcKH Cp6H cy, H3rvie;ia, h (})h3hhkh h Ky^TypHO jaHH on Ap6aHaca, aok cy MopaBCKH
h BapaapcKH Cp6n 6h/ih oa h>hx caMO Ky/irypHO jaMH,
1
hm
y mhcto (J)H3hhkoj 6op6H Ma/io Bpeae/io.

y CTapoj PaiuKOj Ap6aHaca HMa caMO y neiiiTepy, h th
cy, KaKO je to F. JoBaH TomhH HecyMH>HBO OKa3ao,
HacH^HO on TypcKe B/iacrH npe ABecra roAHHa Ty Hace;beHH. A/ih je KapaKTepHCTHHHO ujto th aoce/beHHUH
HHcy momh /ja nocraHy cpeaHiiiTe 3a noap6aHauiaBaH>e
CTape PaiHKe, Kao luto cy to cnHHHe ap6aHaujKe oa3e
y Kocobckoj h CKoncKOj CTapoj Cp6HJH Bpio wecro
nocraja/ie, Beh cy iuTa BHiue npe^CTaBJba^H oa3y Koja
Mopaâ
je, nojx yTHixajeM cpncKor je3HKa h Ky^Type,
Meiba
HaMHH
HayMH
cpncKH
je3HK,
cboj
roBopa, zia
aa
h na. y cboj ap6aHauiKH je3HK npHMH cpncKH aKuenaT
h MHore cpncKe penn, Tano <aa ce npaBH Ap6aHacH c
lbHMa Bpô TeuiKO cnopa3yMeBajy.
nopeA OBora Poro3Ha je h Bawna aHTponoreorpa(J)CKa rpaHHua, jep Ha ceBepy ojx n>e Hacrajy ce;ia
pa36Hjena THna, ce;ia y KOJHMa cy Kyhe Mefyy co6om
jaKO yaa/beHe, aok cy Ha jyry ce/ia MHoro 36HJeHHJa.
Kyha ceocna je hcto TaKO pa3/iHMHTa c o6e crpaHe.
Ha jyry je Kyha oa hepnHwa, 6;iaTa h KaMeHa, a na
ceBepy, y CTapoj PaiuKoj, npeH/iat}yje Kyha c apBeujto
hom
je
rpafÔM.
npo^) bcinha, h mynanHjcKH roBop nocrao je

ana/ieKTa Ha hctomhc cpncKe anaaeiae
Tano AaHac luynaaHjcKH roBop HMa rpaMaTHKV, cHHTakcy h anueHTc
xepueroBaMKor roBopa, a oa hctowhoi roBopa, kojh je, kbko ce t<>
HecywH>HBO aowe AOKa3aTH, paHHJe Bâaau > aaHaiuH,oj UJyMaanJH,
HMa tv oco^HHy ujto CTapo 1 H3roBapa Kao e.
1
IloreopHjii
ymuajeM xcpueroBanKor
278
HOBA CPBHJA
FlocMaTpaHa y ue^HHH, CTapa Pamna HMa H3ivieA

OIDTpO OHBHMHHe H HBpCTO OrpaljeHe BHCOKe nJiaHHHCKe 06/iacrH HHJa cpeAfoa BHCHHa Ha Hcrony npe;ia3H
1000 MeTapa, a na 3ana^y ce ap>kh H3Me^y 800 h
900 m. CeBepoHCTOHHy joj rpaHHuy HHHe nâHHHe Tophhk (1550 m) MypieHHua (1485 m), JaBop (1509 m),
To^HJa (1931 m.), h KonaoHHK (2140 m.) OuiTphHy Te
rpaHHue nojaqaBa h Ao;iHHa pene YBua, Koja HAe c h>om
roTOBO ynope^HO. Jynoiy rpaHHuy hhhh joj BeoMa Ay6oKa, CKopo Henpoxo^Ha AOJiHHa Tape, Kojy c AocaAaintbe upHoropcKe CTpaHe npaie bhcokh orpaHiiH
ZlypMHTOpa h CHtbajeBHHe, TaKO Aa je OHa npeMa jyry
Hajjane 3aTBOpeHa. CeBepo-3anaAHa rpaHHua je hhho,
h HMa BHUie hhckhx h jiaKuinx npe;ia3a, 36or Hera je
Crapa PauiKa oa yBeK HMa;ia Bp;io hhthmhc Be3e c jy-
roHCTOMHOM Bochom. Ty rpaHHuy HHHe njiaHHHe Bhr

(1345 m). JaBopje (1487 m.), KoBan (1439 m.) h Jby6nMHa (2239 m.). BaacHH npe;ia3H cy HapoHHTO pa3BHjeHH Ay>K penHHx AO/iHHa. HajBehn &eo penHHx aoAHHa Tene y npaBuy npeMa ceBepy h ceBep03anaAy
3aTO je CTapa PauiKa y TOMe npaBuy naJBHine h npoxoAHa. MHoro6pojHe npnpoAHe Be3e h 3roAHHJH nyTeBii cy OBy 06/iacr HapoHHTO Be3a;iH 3a 6aceH 3ana^He MopaBe n 3a 3anaAHy Cp6njy. y TOMe nornejxy
cy HapOHHTO Ba>KHe AOJiHHe H6pa, PauiKe h YBua, koJHMa paujKH KpajeBH HenocpeAHO H3â3e y MopaBCKy
AO^HHy. Oa BejiHKe CMeTHbe 3a cao6pahaj je 6uno to
ujto HHJe/ma oa obhx pena He npeceua y ue;iHHH OBy
o6;iacT. JeAHHH je JIhm y AnaroHa;iH cene, a;iH je ft>eroBa AOjiHHa ocra/ia 6e3 3Haqaja 36or Tora iuto je Bp/io
MecTO HenpoxoAHa h iuto Ao;ia3H H3 bhcokhx nâHHHckhx o6âcTH. HenpoxoAHOCT y npaBuy ceBep-jyr, HaPOhhto ceBepo3anaA-jyroHCTOK, HapoHHTO je nojanaHa
thm MOMeHTOM ujto rpaHHuy npeMa AOCaAaujH>oj UpHOj
TopH hhhh Ay6oKa KJincypa 6yJHe Tape, h ujto ce
c OHe CTpaHe Tape Ha;ia3e HaJBHiiiH nâHHHCKH bchuh
h BHCOKe KpineBHTe noBpiHH*KOje cy, 36or bctchkhx
CHeroBa, caMo ;ieTH npoxoAHe. 36or Tora cy Be3e up-
HoropcKHx o6;iacTH ca CTapoM PaiHKOM BeoMa TeniKe,

Ha MHorHM MecTHMa CKopo HeMoryhe. Haj3roAHHJe cy
CTAPA PAUJKA
KaKBa Ay6;ba penHa nomwa hac v npaBuy

npeMa ceBepy, Kao iuto je cnywaj c aoahhom JlHMa oa
AHiipHJeBHue ao BepaHa, h c aoahhom Tape oa BapoujH Ko/iauiHHa ao MoJKOBua. To cy jeAHHa ABa npaBua
y KOJHMa ce OBe ABe 06/iacrH Mory BC3aTH 3i~oahhjhm
nyieBHMa. Ocra-nn npe/ia3H, Kao Ha npHMep Ha JleBep
TapH, 3roAHH cy caMO 3a nemaHKH h .naKUJH KnpnMhjckh cao6pahaj. y ceBepo-3anaAHOM Ae.ny, npeMa
Bochh, pene TeKy y npaBuy npeMa n>oj. A/ih y tomc
npaBuy npe/ia3H cy MaxoM y od.iHKy npeceA.iHHa, 36or
Tora ilito cy MHore penHe aoahhc Ay6oKe, K/iHcypacre
OHfle rA
h cyBHiue ycne.
H3 obhx cbhx pa3/iora, h y Be3H c pa3HHM noahthhkhm MOMeHTHMa, pa3yM.-bHBO je ujto cy HaJBa>Khhjh nyieBH 6h/ih y3Ay>KHor npaBua, to jeer npaBua
ceBepo3ana>a-jyroHCTOK. C Tora r/ieAHUjTa yBeK je 6ho
Ba>KaH 6occlhcku ilyifi, kojh je 3aAOBOA>aBao noipe6e
Koje je H3HCKHBao KHpnyHJCKH HaMHH cao6pahaja. On
Mopao Aa ce
je, HAyhH y npaBuy npeMa Mht[)obhuh,
bcthkhm
TepeHCKHM
TeiiJKohaMa,
6opH c
h r2l npe/ia3H
n/iaHHHe 3naTHe bhchhc h Ay6oKe peMHe aoahhc 36or
Tora Taj nyT 3a MOAepaH Haimi cao6pahaja ne mowc
HMaTH ony Bpe^HOCT Kojy je HMao ao cana.
Kha ce HcnHCMO na jeAHy oa obhx bhuihx n/iannna
h Kaâ c ibenocMaipaMO ue;iy 06/iacr Crape PaujKe, ona
H3MeAa Kao bhcok h npocrrpan xoahhk mhjc je aho H3<
6pa3iiaHO napa.ie.THHM, Aocra 36njeHHM h o6hmho Ha3ynnaHHM TeMeHHMa n/iaHHHa Koje CBe HAy y npaBuy
on ceBcpo3anaAa na jyroncTOK, h Koje mhhc re je ue.ia
06/iacr Haj6o. be npoxoAHa y npaBuy lhnxoBa npy>Kana.
r
Ona
npncTynaMHa caMO ca abc cipane, H to H3 aoon PaiuKe, npHTOKe Hopa. CByâ na

ApyrHM MecniMa tokc je npncTynaMHa, jep CBaKH onaj
kojh 6h y ny xTeo Aa npoApe Mopao 6h ce neTH na
bhchhc HajMaiiiC oa 1300 MCTapa. 36or cbhx thx oco6nna CTapa PaujKa npeAcraB.i.a jejny oa najnenpn.
je
.iHne JlHMa h
naMHHJHX h naJMBpiuhe orpal)ennx oOViacTH na Da.iKanckom FIo/iyocTpBy. Ha Taj na iHn y n>y je tcujko npoApeTH, a/in je TeiuKO h H3 HbC tuahH. OBaKO 3aTBopeHt h MBpcTO orpaheHe reorpacj)CKe ue.iHHe nrpa/ie
i
280
HOBA CPBHJA
cy ap;io qecTo npecy^Hy fia)KHOCT y hctophjh cpncKor

Hapoaa. 3aTBopeHe h hbpcto orpafyeHe njiaHHHCKe o6;iacth npeflcraBjbajie cy oa yBeK ueHTpe cpncKe eTHorpac})cKe cbokhhc, yTOHHuiTe cpncne HauHOHajme cbccth, h
Meda y KoJHMa cy ce, Moauia Ha hckoj* npBodHTHOj
cpncKoj ochobh, BpuiHJia pa3Ha couHajma jeAHH>eH>a
cpncKor Hapoaa. y oboj njiaHHHCKOJ, HCKJbyqHBO ctonapcKOj, eKOHOMCKH cHpoMauiHoj, a/iH hbpcto orpaljehoj nâHHHCKOj o6;iacTH yâpeH je TeMejb chahoj HeMaibHhcKOJ npnoBH. HHTepecaHTHa je CTBap uito, Kano
to npeMa caâmiteM no3HaBaH>y Hauie npouiaocTH H3rjie;ia, 3aqeTaK toj
bckhkoj ^pHcaBHOJ opraHH3auHJH
Haâ3HMO y jeflHoj Hamoj crapoj h, Kano H3i7ieaa, onuiTOJ cpncKoj couna^Hoj opraHH3auHJH, Koja je H3pa>KeHa y pacnope^y h ypeêity Haumx cpeAH>eBeKOBHHx
>Kyna. OiHMHy CTBap Ha;ia3HM0 h y aouhhjoj Hamoj
hctophjh. y je^Hoj Apyroj hcto TaKO hbpcto orpaijehoj h HenpHCTynaMHOj, CHpoMauiHoj h CTonapcKOj 06/iacth pa3BHâ ce Hajnpe je^Ha cjiH^Ha couHajma opraH3auHja, H3 Koje je AOUHHJe nocra/ia je^na Majia, njia-
HHHCKa h CTonapcKa APâsa. To je aaHauiHba LJpHa

Topa, hhjh npBH 3aqeiaK caMHH>aBa KaiyHCKa HaxHJa,
Koja je, Kano H3i7ie,na, noqejia aa ce HacejbaBa Ten or
neTHaecTor Bena, h y kojoj ce jaBHJia nêiweHCKa opraHH3auHj'a H3 Koje ce flouHHJe pa3BHâ cpncKa apacaBa
Koja ce 30Be UpHa Topa. H3 OBora ce CBera bhah oa
KO^HKor cy eTHorpa(J)CKO r 3Haqaja, 3a Hapaae OBano

npoMeHjbHBe h hy#jbHBe cya6HHe, OBane njiaHHHCKe
o6;iacTH, Koje cy 3a Ham y HauHOHajmy ercHcreHUHJy
6nne or kophcth 6aui 3a to uito cy ckohomckh CHpoMamHe h HenpHCTynaqHe .Ekohomcko CHpOMauiTBO, HenpHcrynaHHOCT h oiiiTpHHa KflHMe OBaKHx o6;iacTH cy
iviaBHH ycrcoBH uito Tane n/iaHHHe 3a cBe yru>eTeHe
Hapo,ne npcucTaBJbajy yTOHH uiTa h Heny BpcTy HauHOHa^HHx yTBp}]ett>a, y Koja ocBajaH h ynbeTan, kojh je
o6hhho JiaKOM Ha komothhjh h JiaKuiH >khbot, Te>Ke
npo^Hpe.
36or Tora je pa3yMJbHBo uito cy UpHa
Topa, CTapa PauiKa h XepueroBHHa, oa yBeK, npeaCTaBJbaê ueurpe cpncKe eTHorpa(j)CKe cbokhhc h uito
cy y H>HMa 3acHHBaHe /ipwaBe Koje cy AOUHHJe nocTa-
CTAPA PAILIKA
281
Be/iHKe h jane.
36or Tora OBaKe n/iaHHHCKe 06/iaOHe 3a Ky^TypHH HanpeaaK n 3a pa3BHhe
HauHOHa^Hordârocraiba npe.ncraB.'bajy i!3BecHecMeTft>e,
HnaK cy on Be/iHKor 3Hanaja 3a HapoAHy cy;i6HHy, 6aiu
3aTO uiTO cy o6po ynBpiuheHe, ujto HMajy oiiJTpy
K^HMy h npHBpeâH >khbot y KOJHMa ce pa3BHJa Hapojx
je^HOCTaBan h (})H3hhkh hco^hmho jan, kojh ce Harvio
mho>kh h y AaHHM MOMeHTHMa n.iaBH oko ce6e, Kao
ujto n/iaBH noTOK kojh nociaje on CHeroBa kojh ce
BeKOBHMa roMH/iajy y n/iaHHHH, na ce ojuje^HOM pacTone.
ja;ie
cth, npeM.ua
Ca OBaKO bcthkhm BHCHHaMa, on Mopa jaKO yna;beHa h orpatjeHa n/ianHHaMa Koje npe^craB.'bajy jaKy
npenpeKy 3a npoAHpatbe Ton/iHX h B/ia>KHHX npHMopckhx BeipoBa, Crapa PaujKa ocyêHa je na HMa Bp/10
oiiJTpy K^HMy. H 36ujba obo je jeûa on Hajx/iaflHHJHX H HajCHOKHHJHX CpnCKHX OOViaCTH. Ta K^HMCKa
oiuTpHHa nojanaHa je y nocnenthe BpeMe h thmc ujto
je CKopo CBa iuyMa yHHuiTeHa, h ujto je ocra/10 ro/10
Kpemt>aMKo 3eMJbiiujTe, y KOMe 6e3 iiiyMe êMê Bp/10
6p30 Hecraje, THMe ujto npona/iHe y no3eMHe nehHHCKe xoAHHKe h luto je bona oflHece, a ue/ia 06/iacr
cBe BHiue oro.'baBa, CBe BHuie ,ao6HJa o6/ihk KaMeHe
nycrmbe Koja ce /ieTH crpaxoBHTO ycnja a 3hmh oneT
CTpaxoBHTO xnanu- CTapnx oiyMa,
KOJHMa cy nocTOja/ie HHTaBe 6aJKe, h
KOJHMa MHorH nyTHHUH H3 pahhjhx BpeMeHa jaBâjy, CBe BHiue HecTaje, TaKO na ua
BHCHHaMa Hcnozi 1.300 m. uiyMe HeMa CKopo HHKaKO.
Obom yHHHJTaBaiby iuyMe, Koje cy TypcKe B/iacrH mccto CBecHO noMara/ie, Tpe6a ujto npe era Ha nyT,
aKO HeheMO na Ta 06/iacr npHBpeano noTnyuo npona^He. 36or OBaKnx npn/iHKa cyBH h x.ia^HH BeTpobh AyBajy h 6e3 CMeTibe h 6e3 npeKHAa. 3hmc cy
ayre, Bp/10 oujTpe h nyHe cHera. CByaa ce npHwa
Be/IHKHM I10rH6HJaMa OA
BCflHKHM CMCTOBHMa H
CHera h cryaeHH. Ct3hobhhujtbo ce h npeKO ;ieTa ton;io OACBa h r/iaBa My je yMOTaHa
no npeKO youjtphx
36or
OBaKO
3HMa
h
cyBHx/ieTa,
Koja
ujHJy.
lie peTKO HacTynajy, Mecre cy y oboj 06/iacTH r.iaAne
roflHHe, o KOJHMa AOMahH -neTonncuH h caapeMeHH sariHCH MHoro roBope. IVia^He toahhc y tbkhm 06/iacTHMa
282
HOBA CPBHJA
rope nycroiiie ho h caM paT h 6o;iecT. Hapo^ HarpHe H3 rwiaHHHCKHx o6;iacTH y HH3HHe, r.ne je 3eMJba
nîoziHHJa h y KOJHMa >khbh 3eMJbopaAHHqKH HapoA,
kojh, Beh no cbom Ha^HHy 3aHHMattja, MO)Ke npe jia
cnpeMH 3HMHHuy, h Kora caMa npnpo.ua n>eroBa 3aBHqaja 6ojbe ocnrypa or CBaKHx H3HeHaêH.a. 3a BpeMe
obhx naaAHHx roAHHa MHoro6poJHe pauiKe nopoAHue
Hace;iH;ie cy ce y aojihhh 3ana.zi.He MopaBe, oko Y>KHua h y LLIyMaflHJH, 3aTHM Ma/io no KocoBy h Metoxhjh, h Ha nocjieTKy no uejioj Bochh, rê cy Aonpjie
AO CaBe h ao JiHHKe rpaHHue. Kao Haj3aKjiofbeHHJa h
no CBOMe npaBuy Haj3roAHnja o6;iacT 3a Behe mhrpauHj'e Kaâ cy HH)Ke o6;iacTH 6mt Matte cnrypHe,
CTapa PauiKa je c;iy>KHâ Kao Ba)KHa MHrpaunoHa
uaAa 3a CBe OHe nopoAHue Koje cy ce ce^Hê H3 KocoBCKe CTape Cp6nje y npaBuy npeMa Bochh, XpBaTCKOJ H OiaBOHHJH.
Ba>KHHJe o6jiacTH h npeêjiH.
IlOJeAHHHM nJiaHHHCKHM BeHUHMa H peHHHM A0^HHaMa H3AejbeHa je CTapa PauiKa Ha BHtiie MaHbHx
o6/iacni h reorpa^CKHx uejiHHa. HajnpocrpaHHJe yAy6jbeHe, ueHTpa^Hy h HaJBa>KHHJy o6;iacT y oboj n;iahhhckoj o6;iacrH npe^CTaBJba Hoeoua3apcKo Ilojbe,
Koje ce npy>Ka nopeA peKe PauiKe h npocTHpe oa Fla3apHiHTa ao FleTpoBe UpKBe, y jiymimy oko 8 kh;ioMeTapa, a y iunpHny 700 ao 800 MeTapa. To je jeAHO oa
HajBehnx nojba y uejioj Orapoj PamKoj, y n>eHOM hctohhom ,ne.ny HaJBehe, nopeA Tora n/iOAHO h nâHHHaivia
A^h je join Ba>KHHJa OBa H>eroBa KapaKTepHCTHKa. y H>eMy ce 3Be3Aacro cyTH4y ocaM rviaBnnx h Hei<o;iHKO MaH>HX peHHHx AOJiHHa Koje y H>era
yâ3e h;ih H3 Hbera H3;ia3e. DiaBHe cy AOflHHe PaiHKe,
JbyACKe, Ce6HneBe, JoinaHHue, TpHaBCKe h H36hhkc
PeKe h ,He)KeBe. Ha Ba/iKaHCKOM no/iyocrpBy HeMa
Meda rê 6h ce Ha TaKO MaÔM npocTopy cacraBJbajie
TaKo MHoro6poJHe nomme. To je CKpHBeHa, hbpcto 3arpaêHa KOT^HHHua, H3 Koje ce ycKHM Ao;iHHaMa MO>Ke
H3ahn y CBHMa npaBUHMa, h to npeMa jyry h 3ana^y
3aKJiOHDeHO.
CTAPA PAUJKA
283
y CrapH Ko/iaiuHH, y 6epaHCKy h 6je.iono;bCKy 06/iacr,

na ceBepo3ana,ay y CjcHHuy, h napoMHTO /iaKO npeMa
ceBepoHCTOKy ao/ihhom PaiuKe y H6ap. Te cy ce jxo;iHHe aa.ie JiaKO 3aTBOpHTH, h 36or Tora je uena koT^HHa 6H.ia npnpo,iHO yTBptjeHa. y toj kot/ihhh je
6ho npBH 3aMdaK HeMaibHhcKe apwaBC, h y it>oj ce
OHa opraHH30Ba/ia, a Kaâ je .nonHHJe oja ia/ia, paiuHpHâ ce hh3 PaniKy h Kpo3 H6apcny ao/iHHy. V toj
kot/ihhh je 6ho dapH Pac, no KOMe je
Aounnje
cpncKa jipwaBa Ha3BaHa PaiuKOM. CrapH Pac je 6ho
npeMa yiuliy Ce6HMCBCKC y PauiKy, Ha Mecry Koje ce
âHac 30Be na3apHiuTe. To je MecTo oko 7 kh/iomcTapa Ha 3anan yja/beHO on AaHaimber HoBor ria3apa,
yje^HOJpaBHH Koja je ;iyra 300MCTapa, a 150MeTapa
LunpoKa. II AaHac ce bh^c 3HHHe KOJHMa cy 6n/ie 3aTBopeHe K/incype PauiKe H Ce6n4CBCKe, Kojuvia ce jehho MO>Ke yhn y to no/be Hi OBora 3arpat)CHor
KOT/ia momo ce .naKO yliH y caaaiinbe HoBona3ap
no/be h n>HMe 3aB/ia;iaTH, a y c/iywajy HenpnjaTe.ickot Hanajia Paujann cy ce .naKO Mor/in noByhn y OBaj
i
3aTBopenH yrao HoBona3apcKor rio.i>a.

Ha cynpoTnoj CTpann HoBona3apcKor rio.i.a, oko
jejiaH h no KH.iOMCTap ojx Hobot ria3apa, na.ia3H ce
lleulpoRa Hpi<ea jciHa o,t najcTapHJnx nawnx upKaBa,
Koja je HC3ipanHor 06/iHKa, ae6e.iHx 3H/iOBa, ca muoto
MpamiHx H 3an/ieTennx xo^HHKa, h Koja ce 3naTHO
pa3.iHKyje on jipyrux naujux upkbchhx rpai)CBHna h
neMaiiiHiiCKor BpcMena W toj je upKnn Henaiba, y
MeTpAeceToj roamiH cbot>khbot3, H9 KaTO/in iKe npeujao y npaBociaBuy Bepy. y n>oj je Cbcth CaBa mhpno Cpahy CTCBana h Bykana h y H>OJ je ou.ia cto.THua painKe MHTpono^HJc.
Ha ceBepo-3ana^y ox IlerpoBe UpKBe no a
jxa/ieKo, na jcthom r/iaBHâcroM opay Koje ;ioMHHHpa
CBOM OK0.1HHOM, HapOMKTO patUKHM nyiL'M UJ TO B0.T.H
rtsa,
3a CpGnjy, AH>Ky ce pa3Ba.iHiie
Bypfjeeux
Koje je, KaKO hckh iBpê, noAnrao lic.Man.a
H36aBHi
nehmie y Kojy cy ra 6paha 3ati
Xnjbtyep,iu\\\
KOJM )c yjiaSHO J IbHX, OC06hTO \H.nn
'.
284
HOBA CPEHJA
HjHxob )KHBonHc h paqyHa ra Mehy Haj3HaTHHJe ocraTKe

cpncKor <HBonHca HeMaFbHhcKor ao6a.
Ha Bpjio ênoM nojioacajy, y 6;ih3hhh HHTepecaHTHor BpeJia PauiKe h Be/innaHCTBeHor n>eHa Boaonaaa,
Hajiaae ce pa3Ba/iHHe Couohana PaniKOj Ha H3Bopy",
3aAy6HHe Kpajba ypoiua (XpanaBor), TeMejbH ConohaHa cy oa HcyhKacTor CHTH03pHor nemnapa, 3haobh,
cboaobh h Be;iHKO, AOda onyBaHO Ky6e carpatjeHH cy
oa TecaHe CHre, BpaTa h npo3opn cy yoKBHpeHH yrjiaMaHHM MepMepOM ca ype3aHHM mapaMa Koje noacehajy
Ha Hapo^He Be30Be h npcucraBJbajy HajjieniiiH opHaMeHaT ConohaHa. no JienoM pacnopeay noje#HHHx ae/iOBa h onuneM njiaHy. ConohaHH cnaâjy Me^y Hajnenuie HeMaibHhcKe rpaijeBHHe. CBe yHyTapibe crpaHe
3H,noBa cy
uqa MHorHM cjiHKaMa Koje
ce oflJiHKyjy jkh-
bhm, totobo .upacTHMHHM 6ojaMa, npeAdaBJbajy jaKO meMaTH3HpaHe CBeue h aoraâje H3 upKBeHe HcropHje,
h H30CTajy H3a 6ojbHx c/iHKa y rpanaHHUH, y KOJHMa
HMa HecyMfcHBO BHiiie yMeTHHHKora h c;io6oAHora. Ajih
HMa y ConohaHHMa c;iHKa Koje Mory HMaTH bckhkh
HHTepec; cnHKe Koje npeflcraBJbajy hmbot Kpajba fleqaHCKora, h y KOJHMa HMa Hapo#HHX THnoBa y Hapoahoj houihdH H3 TpHHaedora Bena" (UsHJHh, Ochobh,
IN 1155). KpoB upKBe je nopyuien, MecrHMHue h 3hAObh, h upKBa je Ha nyiy #a cacBHM nponaAHe, ano ce
3a BpeMe He nociapa 3a H>y.
y oko^hhm ce^HMa >KHBe HCKJbyHHBo Cp6n cejbauH, Mel)y KOJHMa npeB/ial]yjy Cp6H npaBOG/iaBHH h&a
Cp6HMa MycÔMaHHMa. Cbh MyaiOMaHH HOBona3apcKe
OKo/iHHe roBope cpncKHM je3HKOM. Jenen h Poro3Ha
cy qHcro cpncKH KpajeBK. Th craHOBHHUH roBope jyachhm HapeMjeM, h no cbojhm cnoJbHHM aHTponoôuiKHM H
(J3H3HHKHM OC06HHaMa npHFiaâjy flHHapCKHM Cp6HMa, H
to THny epcKO-H6apcKOM. BehHHOM cy AOcejbeHHUH, h to
oa CTapor KoâiHHHa h upHoropcKHx Bpaa, HaponHTO H3
PoBaua. Metjy Myc/iOMaHHMa. HMa BHUie crapHHaua', ajiH
hdhx HMa BHiue H3 BocHe, XepueroBHHe h UpHe Tope.
CTaHOBHHiiiTBO obhx ce;ia 6aBH ce norjiaBHTO o cto4apcTBy, 3eMJbopaflH>H h KHpHUH/iyKy. 3eM;topa;ufea je
36or HHT^yHKOr CHCTeMa CaCBHM npHMHTHBHa, h CKopo
HHKO OA MHBMHJa He 06HJa T0.1HKO >KHTa A& 6H CC

Morao H3^p>KaTH npeKO ue/ie ro^HHe. Objxq je y nyhom jeny KapaBaHCKH npeHOC ecnana. BocaHCKHM nyTeM npeMa Mhtpobhuh H3B03H ce CHp y Ha6pHuaMa,
KO)Ke, ByHa, KaipaH h apBeHa rpaâ, a yB03e ce pa3hobpchh TaK03BaHH eBponcKH ecnanH. y rojihhh
PaujKe, HapoMHTO oko ConohaHa, ce/ia BpaJKOBaua,
BapeBa, JlyKOupHJeBa h H3Ha^ Hobot PIa3apa, HMa
h jio6pa Boha.
Obh ceâuH, h to cavio npaBoc.TaBHH, >khbc;ih cy

poncrBy
non HaJTe>KHM HHT^yqKHM chctcmom. 36or
y
Tora cy Ky;iTypHO crpaiuHO H30cra/IH, 6oja>K.'bHBH cy,
MpmaBH h HcnHJeHH. a totobo yBeK cy H3rviea;iH
6pH>KHH. Oil H>HX Cy 60Jbe H3paibeHH, OTpeCHTHJH H Bece/iHJH 6h/ih MycÔMaHH, kojh cy 6hjih y MHoro 6o^>hm
COUHa/IHHM h npHBpeAHHM npH.iHKaMa.
Ha 3ana;iy BDe/ia PaujKe h ConohaHa Hacraje KpuieBHTa noBpuj rieuiiuep, Koja je BHCOKa 1000 no 1200
Mdapa. Ona je CKopo CBa cacraB.-beHa on KpenH>aKa,
h y iboj HMa BpTawa, nehHHa, pena noHopHHua h Ma~
/ihx je3epa. HajBa>KHHJe je je3epo H3Mel)y ce/ia BpahaKOBHha, Bnoua h Tyunba, no^ 6pnoM TpajanoM. 3a
to je3epo je Be3ana npnna o Cbctomc CaBH. FleujTep
je noMaBHTO cyBaTCKa o6/iacr c Bp.no peTKHM HacejbHMa, on kojhx cy cpncKa caivio CyxoAO/i h ByêBO, h
Ae^HMHue HyJKe. y ocra;iHMa >KHBe noMCHyTH Ap6aHacH. riojaBa ap6aHaujKor e/ieMCHTa y toj 06/iacrH oceha/ia ce HapoMHTO y TOMe idto je rieuiTep npeâcTaBâ.ia
je^ny on HaJMaibe H03naTHX o6/iacrH y EBponn. 36or
Tora je y KapTaMa 6n/ia npe/tcTaBJbena 6e;iOM 6ojom.
rieuiTep naKJiQ npejcraB/ba je/wy BHCOKy, cyBy
KpmeBHTy BHeopaBaH, c Koje BOAa noHnpe y noA3eMHe
iiehHHe, xoahhkc h peKe, H Koja npeMa TOMe He npnnaâ hh jc/ihom on cycezmnx pe iHnx c.iHBOBa. Ona ce
Ha.ia3H H3Mel)y c/iHBOBa ,'InMa, Mopa PaujKe h Bane,
Koje ce pa3HHM cbojhm Kpamiua 3aceuajy y H>y, a/in
HHJeAna je noTnyHO hc ocBaja.
Ha jyry on IleiHTepH, H8Mel)y peKC BucrpHue h
beujHHue, Hacraje oG-iacr Buxop, kojh je caeraB/beH
or BHine Ma.iHx .lo^mia h kojh uenoj ocViacrn jxaje He
i
286
HOBA CPBHJA
MHpaH THn. 06;iacT je nyHa Boae, HHxce napTHj'e cy

3acejaHe KyKypy30M h 3o6h, hjih cy non myMOBHTHM
Bohfr>auHMa, y KOJHMa HapoHHTO ycneBajy nyBeHe 6hxopcKe ja6yKe. Ha 6pnHMa je myMa CKopo cacBHM yHHuiTeHa, ccjia cy MaêHa, nen>y ce ao 3HaTHHX BHCHHa,
1100 ao 1200 m. BHCHHe, h Haâ3e ce MaxoM noA dpmhm caceuHMa KpeMftaKa kojh ce c neurrepcKe bhcopaBHH cnyiiJTajy nomyHO OTKpHBeHH y nomine 6nxopckhx pena. y cpe/ubeM BeKy y obom Kpajy 6n;ia je
BHXopcKa >Kyna.
Ha cynpoTHOj crpaHH or Bnxopa, Ha jieBOj crpaHH
JlHMa, HacTaje o6.nacT JIohdH KoJiaiuHH, hhjh ueHTpajiHH
Aeo hhhh o;iHHa peKe BpaHeiua. 06;iacT iuyMOBHTa,
6oraTa naiuaMa, y hh>khm napTHj'aMa aocra B/ia>KHa h
o6patjeHa, h Kao TaKBa HMa ycjiOBa jia. npHBpeflHO Hanpcayje. y RoibeM KcviaiuHHy HMa MHoro cpncKor MyaiOMaHCKor cTaHOBHHiuTBa, Koje je nopeK/iOM H3 ropier KoâuiHHa y Aocanauiifcoj UpHoj TopH.
Bnxop h JXo\ku KoâniHH ce Ha;ia3e y HenocpeAHOM aiHBy pene JlHMa, Koja npeAcraBJba HaJBa)KHHJy
peKy h HajKy^TypHHj'y o6;iacT ue/ie CTape PaujKe. Ca
peKOM TapoM JIhm 3aTBapa je^Hy maHHHCKy h cyBaTCKy o6;iacT Koja je H3y>KeHa y npaBuy jyroHCTOK-ce-
Bepo3ana^. y AaHaujHDHM HMeHHMa peKa h MecTa HMaMO

canyBaHa HMeHa cpeAHbe-BeKOBHHx cpncKHX >Kyna. Tano,
Ha npHMep, y cJiHBy peKe JBy6oBHlje, JieBe jihmckc npnTOKe, 6nâ je Jby6oeii1jCKa JKyua ; oko MecTa BpcKOBa
y .naHauiHjeM floFbeM KojiaujHHy 6n;ia je BpcKOBcua
}Kyaa\ y #o;ihhh peKe BpaHeuia 6n;ia je JKyua Bpaneia. Oko Cpeatber JlHMa, y 6/ih3Hhh aHaujtt>er HpHjcnojba, 6HJia je >Kyna Upna CuJena, y kojoj ce Ha;ia3H
MaHacTHp Mn/iemeBa. Ha HMe Hei\aatutt>e >nyne onoMHibe HMe AaHauiiber ce;ia U,pHa CTHJena Koje ce Ha/ia3H y hctoj >Kynn. CeBepHO o# OBe a<yne y ao^hhh
/UHaujFbe peKe 3BJe3AaHKe 6n/ia je atyna 3e/e3d. ZUHac ce Ta o6/iacr 30Be Be/iHKa >Kyna. Oa npnjeno;bcKe KOT/inne ao BnujerpaAa c o6e CTpaHe JlHMa npy>Kaâ ce >Kyna U.a6ap h/ih JJadapCKa }Kyua, y kojoj
cy 6hah ManacTHpn OpaxoBnua h Batba h rpaa JXo6pyn. y aojihhh peKe Tape 6n;ia je }Kytla Tapa, y
CTAPA FALUKA
kojoj
ce/ia
je
cpeaPbeBPKOBHO
TbypVjeBHha Tapa
ZO
npeMhaHe, h aonHHj'a
Jk'Bep Tapa h Hec})ep Tapa.
ce/io
H3 OBora
ce bhjh r2l cy crape >Kyne 3ay3HMa/ie y

caMO Hn>Ka, n.noiiHHJa Mecia, 6.ia>Ke k/ihmc.
Ha 3anajy or JlHMa, ynpaBO H3Mct)y rojihhq
JiHMa h Tape, Hacraje ro/ia h crcHOBHTa KpembaMKa
BHCopaBan, ca MHoro6poJHHM 3aTBopeHHM y/ierHyhH.\ia,
06/iacr o6pac/ia 6ycoBH.via o iupe n/ian BpTaHaMa",
HHHCKe TpaBe Ha kojoj nacy CTaâ chthhx OBaua. To
je, y ue^HHH, HajcyBJba h najHeKy/iTypunja ofi/iacr ue/ie
Crape PaiiiKe, Koja je caMO OBae ourc 3acejaHa jeqmom h KapniuHKOM, H BeoMa peTKO Hace/beHa. JXo.iwhom pene TiOTHHe noêêHa je Ha cBojy HerowHy h
CTBapH
3ana;iny no.iOBHuy, or kojhx je iipyra Matba, a/in Buiua

h cypoBHJa. UeHTpa^HH rqo OBe 06/iacTH mhhh ao/iHHa
pene Tiothhc y kojoj Hajn/io;iHHJH h HaJKy/iTypunjH
Aeo npe^CTaB.-ba FI/beBa;bCKo floê, Koje je nyHO BOiie,
3acejaHO KyKypy30M h apyrnvi >KHTHMa. Ue.ia 06/iacT,
Koja je joiu y noweTKy AeBeTHaecror BeKa 6n/ia noR
iuyMaMa. iiaHac
je
cacBHM
ro/ia.
JlaHaiiiiba Bapoiu fljbeejha nocra.ia je,
KaKO
npe.\ia
CBeMy H3Meiia, TeK y neinaecTOM bck>- y cpeiiif.cM

Beny y I~I;beBa;bCKOM i~lo;by 6h/io je Ma/io nace/i>e
Bpe3HHua h/ih Bpxu6pe3HHua, na peuu ncrora HMena.
3Ha cc Aa je y iberoBOj 6/ih3hhh 6h.io phmcko nace/be Koje ce 3Ba-io Sapua. IfcrJieJUi zia je y aeceTOM
BCKy y oko/ihhh nêBJba 6ho rpaj. kojh ce 3Bao Bpe3hhk. nyniHUH H3 uiLCHaecror BeKa nêB.ê h.ih Tac/inuy cnoMHiby Kao Ma/io ce/io, y komc cy craHOBa/m
npaBocaaBHH Cp6w [1/beBftbCKO llo.j.e on.io je o6paoio rycrHM iuyMaMa y Kojn.via cy ce cai<pHBa/iH xajiiVUH kojh cy neiuhe Hanaâ^n nyTHHKe kojh cy npcKO
;
Hy6poBHHKa
Hum
a;bc 3a
UapHrpa^. A.ih Bell npn Kpajy ujecnaecTor BfKfl (1581
roil.)
roR.) ii y iiOMCTKy cena.MHaeeTor BeKa (1621
noc/ie
najnpe
Kao
Bihe
na
FLbeB/be cecnoMHfbe
neCTO,
Kao Beha B.ipoiuHua, Koja je 6n.ia QOAeJbCHa na hh/Kh
Aeo, Kpaj pcKc. rjie >KMu.i>axy Typuu, h BHU1H fleo, rjM
CTaHOBdxy Cp6n. y noweTKy cejiaiffiaeCTOf BeKa, He
hko ro;iHna lonHwje, cnoMHibe ce Kao Be.iHKa nafl/beB/ba hhj.ih
H3
3a
11
HOBA CPBHJA
2ti8
âHKa y kojoj
je 6hjio ceaHinTe caHnaK-6era xepueroBanKor. Ilo Hapo^HOM npeâtby FIêBjbe je ao6hjio

HMe no TOMe ihto cy OBê 6wbe ruieBape, nJbeBJba"
MaHacTHpa CBeTe TpoJHue.
ycjiea Tora uito je BehH #eo 3eMJbHuiTa orojieo,
Hsiyieaa rsl ce h KJiHMa 3HaTHO noonrrpHJia. HapoHHro
je BHeopaBaH ocra;ia HesaKJiotteHa oa xjia^Hor ceBepHor Beipa, ycnea qera Haciajy Bp;io oiiiTpe 3HMe h
xâiiHe êTtbe HohH. Bcjihkh HaHOCH CHera, BejiHKa
xjiajmoha, h HapoHHTO jaKH BeTpoBH, y3poK cy ujto cy
MHore o6âcTH 3hmh npocTO HenpoxoAHe h no hckojihko MeceuH oa ocra;ior cBda o^BOJeHe. 36or Te
KJiHMe Ha BHcopaBHHMa ycneBajy caMO CTpivma acHTa,
h to HapoqHTO jenaM h ejb,a;a, a nnieHHua h pa>K c;ia6nje. Flojba n pe^He AOJiHHe MHoro cy a<ynHHJe, njioaHHje h HacejbeHHJe. HajnnTOMHJa h HajnjiOAHHJa je
AO^HHa JlnMa, HapoHHTo OHê rjxe OHa HMa Behnx npolUHpetba h uiHpnx nojba. y HdOj nopea ctpmhhx aon-a
ycneBa h KyKypy3, a BHHOBa Ji03a caMO petje, h to
caMO no 3aKJioft>eHHJHM AeÔBHMa H>eHnx npncoJHHx
CTpaHa. npeMa MHorHM 3HaunMa H3rvie;ia #a ce BHHOBa
;i03a y paHnja BpeMeHa MHoro BHine KyjiTHBHcajia. To
CBeAoqe MHora HMeHa h Ha3HBH nojeAHHHx MecTa, nao
BnHorpaAH, J1o30bhk, HTaKo Aajbe. A Kao Hajcnryphhjh AOKa3 3aTo cnyHce HaM Tecnepe MaHacrnpa Tpojnue H3 mecHaecTora h ceAaMHaecrora BeKa, y KOJHMa
ce pa3HHM cejbauHMa, ManacTHpcKHM HHCJHHJaMa, \nonyurra #a caê BHHorpaa u na 6epy rpojKê. Kynypy3
ce ceje h y ao;ihhh Tape, ajin h to y 3aKôn>eHnJHM w
CyHMaHHJHM MeCTHMa. EKOHOMCKe H KJIHMCKe pa3^HKe
H3Mel^y ,ay6oKHx, 3aKôhbeHHx pe^HHx aojiHHa h bhcokhx h OTBOpeHHx noBpuiH cy 3HaTHe. no AHy flO/lHHe
h cpe^HHOM fteHHx CTpaHa noHHH>e ce opaTH npH CBp-
meTKy jaHyapa, a npH Bpxy npn CBpmeTKy MapTa hjih

AOUHHJe. Ha BHeopaBHH ce ope join aouhhjc Ca6Hpan>e jieTHHe no
h no cpcunHH CTpaHa 6HBa KpajeM jyyia, a npn Bpxy KpajeM aBrycTa, a Ha BHeopaBHH
JOUJ AOUHHJe.
Crapa PaniKa HaceêHa je cnopo HCKJbyqHBO Cp6HMa npaBoc/iaBHe h Myc/ioMaHCKe Bepe. H3y3eT8K uhhh
my
289
CTAPA PAUJKA
fleiiiTep,
y kojoj cy Hace/beHH Ap6aHacH. Cp6H Mycno-
MaHH naceêHH cy HapoMHTo Ha rpaHHUH 6ocaHCKOj,

3aTHM y 06/iacHMa Ha jyry on CjeHHue h oa HoBor
ria3apa. To cy CKopo MHcre cpncKO-MyaioMaHCKe o6;iacth. MHane y MHorHM apyrHM 06/iacrHMa >KHBe noMeuiaHH Cp6H npaBOc;iaBHH c Myc/ioMaHHMa. Myc.iOMaHH
MHHe, nopea Tora, BehHHy cnopo y CBHMa BapoiuHMa.
Mefyy HaHMa iiMa aocra h npaBHX Typana, h HeuiTo
Ap6aHaca. Ue/io to Myc/iOMaHCKO ct3hobhhujtbo roBopH cpncKH, a BapoiuKO nopeA cpncKor h TypcKH,
KaTKaa 60.156 TypcKH Hero cpncKH. CeocKO MycnoMaHCKO CTaHOBHHILITBO TOBOpH je^HHO CpnCKH, H TO jy>Khhm HapenjeM, c oco6HHaMa upHoropcKor h xepueroBaHKor roBopa, a Mecro c ohhm oco6HHaMa roBopa
KOJHMa ce oa/iHKyjy HCK/bynnBO 6ocaHCKH Cp6H MycaoMaHH. rio HaqHHy roBopa, no cbojhm o6HMajHMa, a
HapoMHTo no cbom MeHTa^HTeTy, ohh MHHe je^Hy ueziHHy c 6ocaHCKHM MycÔMaHHMa. TaKBH cy HapOMHTO
MîOMaHH crapoceaeouH, kojh npeiurraB^>ajy MHoro
MHpHHJe H CTa.lO>KeHHJe CTaHOBHHlllTBO OA MyC/IOMaHckhx AOce^>eHHKa H3 HeraaunbHX lypcKO-upHoropcKHx
To
cy MaxoM Ko/iaiuHHUH, HhkiiJHhH h KopjeHHhH, kojh cy aoce/baBaibeM y BehHM MacaMa npoujHpH^H h nojaqa/in 06/iacrH xepueroBaMKor
h upHoropcKor roBopa. Ohh cy y OBe h OHano HeKy;iTypHe 06/iacrH yne/iH Mnoro BHUje AHB/bHHe, HecHryphocth, n/bam<e, Hacn.â h npBHe ocBeTe. FIpeMa crapHjeM
MycaoMaHCKOM CTaHOBHHuiTBy, Koje ce o6hhho na3HBa
BoLUibauHMa, obh H3rvie;iajy AHB/baMHHJH, npacKaBHJH,
necia/iHHJH h cnoco6HHJH 3a weTHHMKy aKunjy h n/bam<y.
u
BoiiJHDauH cy tpomhjh, wecro H3iêAajy pe3HrHHpann,
a/in cy nyHH Bcpcne \ip>Kfbe h ocoChtot 4>aHaTH3Ma,
kojh je cra/iaH, totobh Ha HaJBehe 3/iomhhc h cnoco6HH
3a MHoro ujTO-ujTa.
CpucKO npaBOc/iaBHO CTaHOBHHiiiTBO, no cbom nopeK/iy, no oco6nHaMa roBopa h hoiuilh, H no hctoPHJckhm ycnoMeHaMa, ae/in ce na MeTHpn rpyne, h to
Ha: XepueroBue, BacojeBHhe, CrapoB/iaujaHe h PaujaHe. Xepu,ezo8u,u 3axBaTajy y rviaBHOM ouaj aco CTape
Paiune kojh je y cbojc BpeMe npHnaâo apwaBH Xep
norpaHHMHHx
MObA cpihja
06/iacrH.
ly
29U
HOBA CPBHJA
uera CrjenaHa, aaKJie o6;iacTH Ha ;ieBOj CTpaHH peKe

3axBaiajy Aan;ie o6;iacTH oa 6ocaHCKe, oahocho xepuerosaHKe rpaHHije ao Hoft>er Ko;iamHHa h
BHxopa. Ohh Hoce no3HaTO xepueroBanKO OAe/io, c
nâBHM iua^BapaMa, 6jejiaiOM h upbchhm ueiviaAaHOM,
h roBope no3HaTHM xepueroBanKHM Hape4jeM. Bacojeeuhu ce HacejbaBajy c o6e dpaHe pene JlHMa, aonupyhH Ha ceBepy y niaBHOM ao Jby6oBHi)e h JbeiuHHue, qHHe je^Hy reorpa(J)CKy h nêMeHCKy u.e/iHHy c
BacojeBHhHMa y AOcaAauifooj Upnoj Topn, h npeACTaBâjy Tpehn Aeo cbhx BacojeBHha. C BacojeBHhHMa
}KHBe noMeiuaHH AOcejbeHHHH H3 cbhx ocTa^nx upHOropCKHx nêMeHa, HaponHTO Kyqa h rinnepa, a;iH hx
BacojeBHhn He npH3Hajy 3a CBOJe a/ieivie h Ha3HBajy
hx Cp6âqHMa h AiuaHHMa. Hoce no3Haiy BacojeBHhCKy HOUJH>y h roBope HjHxobhm HaHHHOM roBOpa. Y
oko^hhh HoBe BapouiH h CjeHHue, Hapo^HTO Ay>K aocaâujH>e cpncne rpaHHue, )KHBe Cuiapo6Aaiua,Hii koj'h
ce oa odajior craHOBHuiHTBa H3ABajajy cbojom h%ihtt>OM H CBOJHM n03HaTHM nCHXH4KHM oco6HHaMa. 06hhho
cy OKpeTHH h AOBHTjbHBH, Hoce upHe nejieHrnpe, upH
MeiviaâH, KpaTaK upH rytb h upBeHH uia^ oko rviaBe.
Te CTapoBâmKe oco6HHe, HapcmHTo oaoio, Kao jeBTHHHj'e h npaKTHMHHJe, npeHOCH ce h Ha ocra/io craHOBHHUJTBO. PaQJaHHMa 6H Ce M0I7I0 Ha3BaTH CTaHOBHHUJTBO HOBona3apcKe OKO^HHe h aojihhc PauiKe. FIopeKÔM je oa aoceybeHHKa H3 pa3HHx KpajeBa. >KHBe;io
je hoa TeujKHM arpapHHM OAHOCHMa, pace^>aBaô ce
BHuie Hero h jeaaH Kpaj, HapOHHTO y Cpdnjy noA KapafyopfêM. Ojxqjio My je 6e;io cyKHO ca upHHM raJTaHHMa.
JlHMa.
BapoujH Ciape PawKe.

1.
Hobh
riaQap.
Bhac/ih cmo Aa y cpeAH>eM Beny Hwje 6h;io HoBor ria3apa, Beh Aa je y iberoBo] okojihhh 6ho rpaA
Pac. y aouhhjhm BpeMeHHMa Hedaje h ciapor Paca, h
oa 1346 ao 1459 roA. noMHtbe ce TproBHUiTe Kao
HajBa>KHHJe MecTO na TproBanKOM nyTy H3Metjy J\y6poB-
CTAPA TAIUKA
^y
HHKa h Hmua. MeijyTHM npH Kpajy 15 BeKa Hecraje HMeHa

TproBHiuTe, a jaBJba ce aaHaiiiFbe HMe Hobh FIa3ap,
MaxoM y TypcKOM o6.ihky Kao JeHH-fIa3ap. Oco6hto
hccto ra noMHiby nyTHHUH 16BeKa, Koje je npoywaBao
n. MaTKOBHh. Flo H>HMa je Hobh Ila3ap HaJBeha Bapoiu Ha nvTy H3Met)y ,Hy6poBHHKa h HHtua, y kojoj
HMa oko 6000 Kyha, c MHorHM uaMHJaMa, KapanaH-cepaJHMa h jiyraHKHM 6a3apoM; 6ho je HaceêH Typ~
UHMa, Jly6poBMaHHMa ti M.ienanHMa, h KaTO/iHUH cy
HMa/iH Kane/iy y jeAHOj Kyhn. Ha iberoBOM Tpry cy ce
npoiiaBa^H npoH3BOAH H3 MaKeOHHJe, BocHe, Cp6nje
h Ap6aHHJe. Haj>KHBJbe cy 6nne FberoBe TproBaHKe
Be3e ca CKa/ipoM, ,fly6poBHHKOM, CapajeBOM, Hhujcm
h Co^yHOM, n H3BO>KeHH cy noMaBHTO Byna, Kowe h
BOcaK. TaaB 3Hanaj jc 3a;ip>Kao Hobh fla3ap CBe ro
noêTKa 15 Bena. Hobh PIa3ap je jaKo nocpHyo or BpeMeHa Kapa})op*)eBa yciaHKa. 3a BpeMe Kapaôpt)eBa
noxoâ Ha Hobh ria3ap h ziouHHJe npece/in/iH cy ce
H3 BapOHJH, a HapOHHTO H3 OKO/IHHC, MHOTH Cp6H y Cp6njy, h Taj ce npouec h aouHHJe hhjc HHKaKO 3aycraB;bao. Pace/iH/iH cy ce h mhoth MyxaMeâHUH. npecTa/ia
je TproBHHa ca Cp6njoM h Hhujcm, h o^ crapnx TproBawKnx Be3a o^pHOBao je join >KHBe Be3e ca CKaApOM. CTaHOBHHUJTBO Ce 6h.10 TaKO 3HaTHO CMafbH/IO
ja je XwhtyepRunr 1857 r. naiuao y Hobom FIa3apy
caMO 1500 MyxaMejiaHCKHX h 100 npaBOC/iaBHHx roMOBa h/ih oko 12.000 daHOBHHKa. rioc/ie Tora BpeMeHa Hobh I~Ia3ap ce y hcko/ihko onopaBHO, napoMHTO
or KaA je carpaljeHa KOCOBCKa >Ke/ie3HHna, h or Tora
BpeMeiia je yiiyheH norviaBHTO Ha CcnyH.
H ca;ia Hobh ria3ap HMa bc.ihkh jnaqaj h iiajBehy MapiiiHJy na nyTy H3Mel)y FIpH3peHa h CapajeBa.
.Tokh Ha najnoBO/bHMJeM Mecry ucmpa^Hora no.i.a,
HajnpocrpaHHJe h naj6oraTHJe paBHH HoBona3apcKor
CaHuaKa; aa/be je 3(5or noMCHyinx 3Be3Aacrnx ao/iHna
Ha ibera ynyheHa Beha OKO/inna. Oh je r/iaBHo MecTO
h r.iaBHO OAMopnuiTe na CocancKOM nyiy kojh or mhri/bCB/bC H L>0TpOBHHKe >Ke.ie3HHMKC CTaHHUC BOAH
CHy; HCTHna jc 3nawaj Tora nyia 3naTHO onao or KaKo
je Aycrpo-yrapcKa -iayse/ia Bocny. Ha noc.ieTKy je Hobh
292
HOBA CPBHJA
riaaap 6ho h ociao niaBHO ceflHiirre MyxaMeaaHCKHx

6eroBa obhx KpajeBa. y H>eMy, aaKJie, HMa join 3HaTHor eKOHOMCKor >KHBOTa; H>eroB na3ap npeacraBJba h
jiaHac y^Huy Koja je ayranKa oko 80 m. h une nonpe^Ke npeKO ue/ior ueHTpajmora nojba h peKe PaniKe:
to je THncKa TypcKa Hapmnja, norjiaBHTO on apBeHHX
jiyhaHa h heneHaKa, mnan kojhx je #pBeH KpoB, noAynpT .apBeHHM cry6oBHMa, h TaKO je c o6e crpaHe
3HaTaH Aeo na3apa HaTKpHBeH. Te HacjiOHe 30By cauaUHMa, h 36or h>hx ce Moace y qapuiHJH h no plâBOM
BpeMeHy yroflHo KynoBaTH h npoaaBam DiaBHH cy TproBUH h 3aHaT^nje Typun epjinje, 3aTHM MyxauHpH nocejbeHH H3 BocHe h HnKinnha, h Ha nocjieTKy Ma;io TbaKOBaua, je^HHH apHayTCKH npeAcraBHHUH y Hobom ria3apy,KOJH zpyKe xaHOBe h 6aBe ce KyjyHUHJCKHM 3aHaTOM. Ueâ qapuinja roBopn cpncKH. OHa ce yBene
3aTBapa, h CBe HapinHHJiHJe craHyjy H3BaH qapinnje, no
MaxajiaMa. no mom o6aBeniTeH>y HMa caâ y Hobom
FIa3apy 3700 MyxaMeâHCKHx Kyha; y KyhH HMa npoceHHO 5 ayina, h npeMa TOMe y Hobom Ila3apy HMa
oko 18.500 MyxaMeâHaua cpncKora je3HKa. OKOJiHHa
je BehHM aejiOM npaBOcnaBHa; cpncKa cy cejia 6e3 H3y3eTKa Hufyjiyuu, a MyxaMeâHCKa BehHM aejiOM. 3aTO je
Hobh
ria3ap ceaHime noMeHyTHx MyxaMeâHCKHX 6eHaj6enitt>Hx h Hajjbyhnx He caMO OBe o6;iacTH;

ohh cy HapoMaTO cktiohh OTMHuaMa h 3yjiyMHMa, h
3aTO je Hobh FIa3ap craJiHO 6ho je/ma on HajHecnryphhjhx h Haj(J)aHaTHHHHJHx BapouiH eBponcKe TypcKe.
Cp6n cy cKopo OHaKO hcto noTHnrreHH Kao y IlehH h
TbaKOBHUH. OAY3eTa hm je MoryhHOCT 3a Behn paa h
hhko ce He cMe jane odoraTHTH. Kao iuto je noMeHyTO, Cp6n cy ce oji noneTKa 19 BeKa jaKO pacejwjiH,
h no MHorHM BapouiHMa 3ana^He Cp6Hje no3HaTH cy
HMa hx qaK y JaroAOcejbeHH TproBUH na3apuH"
Ahhh. Caaa HMa y Hobom na3apy 160 cpncKHx noMOBa, MaxoM 3aapy>KHHx, TaKO %a. y jeaHOM HMa oko
10 ayina, h npeMa TOMe HMa CBera Cp6a y Hobom fla3apy oko 1600; He3HaiaH 6poj on h>hx 6aBH ce 3aHaiHMa, TprosHHOM, MexaHUHJiyKOM. no mojhm o6aBenrrehbHMa, on Cp6a cy caMO ABe nopo^Hue crapHHUH: KoroBa,
293
CTAPA PAUIKA
MaTHHe, on kojhx HMa h je^Ha HoiaMH3HpaHa rpaHa,

3aTHM Kyjiarnhn, on kojhx je yBeK 6h;io h can HMa
CBeujTeHHKa. Ocra;ie cpncKe nopoAHue cy aocejbeHe
nocyie^HDHx 50 80 toa-, MaxoM H3 oko^hhx ce/ia, 3athm H3 H6apcKor Ko.iaiuHHa, on Be/ieca (jeaaH je on
h>hx CBeujTeHHK), on Oone h H3 PoBHua y UpHoj TopH. u
Caâ HMa 13.433 CTaHOBHHKa.
2.
UpBjexxtoe,
JIokh y jeAHOj ycKOj a Bp/io /ienoj ao/ihhh JlHMa

o6a#Be n>eroBe crpaHe. Behn h rviaBHH Aeo BapouiH
cipaHH Bp.io
je Ha aecHoj crpaHH, aok je Ha apyroj
Ma;iH aeo, oahocho Kpyr KacapHCKH kojh je aycrpHJCKa BOjcKa npn OKynaunJH npHJenoâ no^nr/ia.
JIhm je npo;ia3ehH Kpo3 fIpHJeno;be npH/iH4HO
uinpoK h 3a BpeMe OTanatt>a bc/ihkhx CHeroBa h nanaft>a Be/iHKHx KHiua qedo Moate to/ihko â nano\)Q
Aa AecHy crpaHy ripHJeno.*ba nâBH. 1897 roA. 6n;ia
Kyhe noMeje Be/iHKa non/iaBa, ycrceA Koje cy HeKe
peHe h HeKe nojaTe OAHeceHe. BoAa je Taiia n/iaBH/ia
c
npHj'eno/be CBe no wapiunje. YoieA JiHMa h FberoBHx

nonâBa caMo je Mecro Aocra He3ApaBO h B/ia>KHO.
JlnMOBe cy npHTOKe CejbaMHHua, Koja ce y/ieBa
c AecHe dpaHe JlnMa BHiue
I~IpHJenoA>a Ha Mecry
Ko/iOBpaiy, h Mn/iemeBCKa PeKa, Koja ce y/iHBa y
/Ihm HH>Ke ripnjeno/ba c AecHe crpane. OBa je peKa
êTH o6HMaH noTOK, a.iH KaA HaAofye yc/ieA KHiua h
OTanaiba CHeroBa, TeiuKo je pa3/iHKOBaTH na /ih je
flttM BehH \iJ\H OHa.
FIpHJenojbe no naJHOBHJoj ct3thcthuh HMa 3355
CTaHOBHHKa, oil kojhx anco/iyTny BehHHy MHHe Cp6H
Myc/iHMami. Bapoiu je Aocja iHCTa a h npn/iHMHo ype:
riopeA jeAHoenpaTHHX h hhckhx ujHHApaHHX Kyha

HMa npn/iHHan 6poj ABoenpaTHHX h MOAepHHx 3rpaAa.
IViaBHay/iHua, a h r/iaBHH aeo Bapoiun jcctc qapmnja, Koja
ce upocTHpe nyAi ue/ior ripHJeno.ba
y rviaBHy y/inuy
H3/ia3e joiu caMo hcko/ihkc ycKe y.wume. Y MapiuHJH
r.iaBHe Kaâne h Co^h xoTe.in
On 6o. bHx CJ
fyeHa.
.1
HOBA CPBHJA
294
IJ,pKBeHa Ka(})aHa M h 06yhHHHHa Kac})aHa".

Oa xoTcna /Ihm* h MHHHha XaH".
FIpHJenojbe HMa ochobhy uiKOJiy h HHMcy ruMHa3HJy. Cp6H HMajy h Bpjio Jieny upKBy. On xyMaHHX
ydaHOBa je neBaMKo ADyuiTBO Cb. CaBa", Koje noctojh join Oa npe 20 roAHHa. Myc;iHMaHH HMajy Tpn
uaMHJe.
H3 FIpHJenojba BOAe kojickh nyieBH 3a rL/beBJbe
npeKO HOBor .nHMCKor Mocra h HOBonpoceneHH kojickh
nyT 3a npH6oj, c kojhm ripHJenojbe boah HaJBHinn cao6pahaj. 3aTHM nyT 3a CjeHHny, kojh je ao MHJioiueBor Rona kojickh a OAaTJie khphuhjckh. IlyT kojh boah
3a ripH6oj koa ymha BHCTpnue y JIhm OABaja ce h
3a HoBy Bapoiu, kojh je TaKoije TeK nponijie roAHHe
Kacj)aHa:
npoceêH MetiyTHM, khphuhjckh nyT kojh HAe AHpeKtho 3a HoBy Bapoiu cacBHM je ptjaB h onacaH.
FIpHJenojbe ca JIhmom HMa BejiHKy 6yAyhHOCT,
HapoHHTO joui oa KaKo je nocra;io OKpyaoio MecTO.
Bapoiu ce jcahho Mo>Ke uihphth hh3 JIhm Ha jieBOJ
CTpaHH: AaHaujHDH rviaBHH ago BapouiH anco/iyTHO ce
HeMa rAe BHiue ujhphth.
3.
BepaHe.
JIokh y roptbCM TOi<y JlHMa, a npyâ ce ca o6aABe

fceroBe crpaHe. Behn h r/iaBHH Aeo je Ha jieBOj CTpaHH,
OAaKê ce h 6epaHCKO nojbe HacTaBJba. C AecHe je
CTpaHe Bp;io Ma/iH TypcKH Aeo, H3HaA Kora ce AHê
6pAO JacHKOBau Koje je TypuHMa c/iy>KH;io Kao Ao6po
h npHpOAHO yTBpêiiDe.
OBaj Kpaj c AecHe CTpaHe 30Be ce ApeMH, 36or
Tora ihto cy Ty 6hjih xapeMH TypcKHX HHHOBHHKa h
o(j)HUHpa. HapoAHO HMe Tora Kpaja jecTe npocHHe.
DiaBHa Bapoiu c AecHe CTpaHe actih ce Ha ropHby
h AOH>y Maxa/iy ceBepHO oa h^hx je r/iaBHH Aeo BapouiH,
4apiHHJa. H3Me^y napiunje h yjinue Koja boah MaHacTHpy
bypêBHM CTy6oBHMa HMa npa3aH npocTOp, 6HBiue
rp>KHiijTe, Koje ce 30bc Bervfy'K. rip'eKO JlHMa cy ABa
MOCTa kojh Be>Ky ApeMe ca rviaBHOM Bapoiun. Moctobh
cy noAHrHyTH Ha KpajeBHMa BapouiH. H3 r/iaBHe nap;
<
LUHJe 3a
ApeMe HAe
BepHOJ crpaHH, aok
TAPA PAUJKA
ce
je
hobhm moctom kojh je Ha cecrapH Ha jy>KHOj crpaHH CKopo
nocTao HeynoTpe6^HB.
BepaHe HMa oko 3.0003.500 daHOBHHKa, ojx kojhx
MycnoMaHH MHHe BehHHy. Cp6H xpnujhaHii HMajy ocnoBHy
iHKO^y ca 150 200 yneHHKa h ocHOBuy iHKo^y c aecHe
crpaHe JlHMa Koja cny>KH 3a \)zkq H3 nona/beHHx okojihhx
ce;ia, h caâ HOBO-OTBopeHy HH>Ky rH\ma3HJy. UpKBe
y BapoiHH neiviajy. MeTBpT caia yna:beHH 03 BepaHa Ha/ia3e ce TbyptjeBH Cry6oBH, kojh rpatjaHHMa c/iywe y
MecTO BapoujKe upKBe. Oa Ky/nypHHx yciaHOBa aaHac
Cp6n HMajy o6HOB. beHy MHTaoHHuy, Kojy cy TypuH
npe 6h/ih 3aTBopn^H. Typun cy TaKOê HMa/w ocHOBHy
iHKO/iy h py>K/iHJy (HH>Ky rHMHa3Hj'y). HMajy aaHac h
ABe yaMHJe.
On 60/bHx 3rpaâ cy HeKO/iHKe KacapHC h HOBa
3rpaAa 06/iacHe ynpaBe 6uBiuer TypcKor yhyMaia. CBe
cy ocra/ie 3rpaAe BehnnoM npocre h jeAHocnpaTHe. II
OBiie cy y rviaBHoj qapujHJH, Koja ce Ay>K JlHMa Kpo3
ne/iy Bapouj npoTe>Ke, CBa HaiyienjTBa, rocTHOHHue h
Ka(J)aHe. y Ber/iyKy je 60/bH xotctc FIonoBHha, h y

u
MapoiHJH KacJ)aHe JaKa Kyqa, Kom h LUeKy/iapqeBa
Ka4>aHa.
BepaHe BpujH cao6pahaj bchhhom ca AHupnjeBHUOM, Po>KajeM, flehH, h HemTO ca Bhjctihm no.êM h
CjeHHUOM. OcKy^HixoM 60/bHx KOMynHKauHja, jep cy
cbh nyTeBH Bp/10 pâBH H KHpHUHJCKH, OCHM HOBO
TpacHpaHor 3a AHjipnjeBHu.y, h TproBHHa je y obhm
KpajeBHMa Aocra cna6o pa3BHJeHa.
/Ie>KH Ha BC/IHKOJ H TO/IOJ BHCOpaBHH CJeHHMKOr

no/ba Ha iberonoj ceBepo-3ananHoj crpaiiH, a c Aecne
crpaHe peKe YBua, on Kora je ueTBpT caia yAa:i>eHa.
BapoiH je roTOBO nomyHO opncHTa/icKor Tnna,
hhckhm jeAMOcupaTHHM KyhaMa, ca bhcokhm ihhhiipaHHM KpoBOBHMa, c AyhaHHMa ca heneHUHMa, xaHOBHMa, irr.fl. MnaK, nopeA oanx oco6hh8, caMa Bapow
ca
HOBA
296
CPfcHJA
h yHyipaiuifcocT H>eHora aoiBOTa hoch KapaKTep h Ha

40BeKy ocraBjba yTHcaK hhcto cpncne BapoiiiH.
HMa 4539 CTaHOBHHKa, oa kojhx Cp6H xpniuhaHH
HHHe caMO je^Hy AeBeTHHy; octajio cy MycjiHMaHH. ApHayia H3 neiirrepH HMa caMO hckojihko Kyha. OKO^HHa
naK cjeHHHKa HMa noâ xpniuhaHa h nojia MycjiHMaHa.
Cp6n xpnuihaHH HMajy ocHOBHy iiiKOJiy ca 100 ao
150 yqeHHKa h upKBy, Koja je Ten npe 12 roAHHa noAHrHyia, HHane cy ce npe c;iy>KH^H KanejiOM. CpncKH Aeo
BapouiH, kojh ce Ha;ia3H Ha ceBepHoj CTpaHH, ae/in ce Ha
ABa nena: TopH>y h AOity Maxajiy. TopH>a Maxajia Ao6njia
je ca,na Ha3HB JaBOpCKa yjinua". Hanac Cp6n HeMajy
HHKaKBy KyjiTypHy hhth nan xyMaHy yciaHOBy. npe nethph roAHHe nocTojaô je neBaqKO ApyuiTBO, a 1910 r.
ycraHOBJbeHa je 6nJia h cpncKa HHTaoHHua. y caMOM
CBOMe 3aneTKy Typcne B;iacTH yKHHyjie cy o6aABe
ycraHOBe.
TypcKH Behn ago BapouiH, Kpo3 kojh npOTHne H
pe^Hua TpaGoBHua, HMa HeKOJiHKe Maxajie, oa kojhx cy
HaJBehe FIotok, HMaM Maxajia h MaBHha Maxa;ia. Typun
HMajy Tpn uaMHJe, jeAHa oa HdHx je y rpaAy, kojh ce
Ha;ia3H Ha Bpxy napuinje ao cpncKe Maxajie. TpaA je
Ma^H h orpaêH Bpjio c;ia6HM 3haom, HHane HHJe hh:
KaKBO yTBpljeHje. 3aTHM, Typun HMajy neTHpH ochobhc

ca 500
600 iâKa, neiopa3peAHy rHMHa3njy
(HAaAHJy) h eHCKy paAeHHHKy uiKOJiy HaMen>eHy HCKJbymhbo 3a hn^HMapcTBO. Tihjihmobh ce, oa flene ByHe
cjeHHMKHx OBaua, AOCTa Ao6po h caBpuieHo H3pal)yjy.
y^Hue cy y BapouiH AOCTa uiHpOKe, na npHJiHMHO
h HHCTe. HajrâBHHj'a je yjiHuayiapuiHJa, y kojoj cy h
CBa HaA-neiiiTBa, paAê, xotctch h Ka(J)aHe. Bhbihh xahobh npeTBopeHH cy y xoiejie, oa kojhx cy XoTe/i
Cp6HJa" h JaBOp" Haj6ojbH.
Ha no;ia caia H3HaA BapouiH Ha ceBepHoj dpaHH
Haâ3H ce yTBpêite JlynoniaB, a Ha ceBepo-HCTO^HOJ
dpaHH qeTBpT caTa oa BapouiH je Man>e yTBpl]eibe Ha PaAHiuHha BpAy. Hctohho oa CjeHHue npoTOKe ce npodpaHo cjeHHHKO nojbe, 3 caTa AyranKO h 2 uinpoKO.
FloiuTO je oCpacô chthom TpaBOM, jep je 3a ycese
iiJKOJie
CTAPA PALUKA
297
ocmm OBca "h HeujTO jewMa cacBHM HeruioAHO, he H>eMy

BehHHOM nacy KpAa qyBeHHx cjchhmkhx OBaua.
TproBHHa ce BehHHOM boah ca CKon/beM h CorAe H3B03e croKy h ctohhc npoH3BOAe, a HaPOhhto y CKonê qyBeHH cjchhmkh CHp. H3 noMeHyTHx
BapouiH AOB03e MaHycfiaKTypHy h KO/iOHHa;iHy po6y.
CaB cao6pahaj BpiuH ce KHpnuH/iyKOM, jep Ao6pHx
ApyMOBa HeMa. Jcahhh ApyM boah npeKo JaBopa 3a
HBan>Huy, HHaqe 3a ocra.ie BapouiH, Hobh fla3ap,
ripHJencbe, HoBy Bapoui, Ewjeô Flo/be, BOAe o6hmhh
ziyHOM,
nyieBH.
HcBa Bap;
HoBa Bapoiu .iokh y
jeAHOj Aenoj ao;ihhh Ha bh-
chhh npeKo 1000 MeTapa. Kpo3 uy npoTHne noTOK

kojh H3BHpe HcnoA n;iaHHne CeKHpnue. HenocpeziHo
y3 Bapoiu ca HcroqHe h 3anaAHe crpaHe AH>Ky ce HeKO/iHKa 6pAa. Ha ceBepo3anaAHOj crpaHH je n/iaHHHa
THKBa h ao \he Pa>KHiuTa. Ha jy>KHOJ crpaHH je IJLlTHn
h Bapnue, a Ha jyro-3anaAHOJ CTpaHH je 6pAO OuHHa
CTHjeHa.
HoBa Bapoiu je jeAHHa Bapom y CanuaKy me cy

Cp6n no 6pojy CTaHOBHHiiJTBa jeAHaKH
npaBOcyiaBHH
ca
cBaKojaKO Tpe6a npHnHcaTH

6/ih3hhh cpncKe rpaHHue a h mhcto cpncKOj
Myc^HMaHHMa,
6hbujoj
a ujto
OKO^HHH.
HMa 400 500 nyha
ca 2909'craHOBHHKa, oa kojhx
hhhc no/ioBHHy npaBOCiaBHH Tp6H. Cp6n cy BehHHOM
TproBUH h to, ochm hcko/ihuhhc, TproBUH Ha Ma.io. Behn
Cp6H TproBUH cy h 4H(})/iyK-caxH6HJe.
Typun H3 HoBe Bapoiun cy BehHHOM qn(j)/iyK-caxn6nje, a 3a MH(})HHJe HMajy Cpde ce;baKe H3 oko;ihhx
ce/ia. Ohh naK Typun kojh HeMajy CBOje 3eM:be bcIihhom cy 6aKa;iH n/in CHTHHMapcKH TproBUH.
HoBa Bapoiu aqjih ce^Ha ABa nomyHo OABOjeHa
Ada cpncKH h TypcKH. CBe noipe6e Cp6n Ao6njajy
oa cpncKHx npoAaBaua, a Typun oa cbojhx npoAaBaua.
CpncKH Aeo, kojh ce na;ia3H Ha 3anaAnoj crpaHH,
Ae^H ce Ha Maxa.ie 3e6nH0Bau, Kao i/iaBHa, h Hobo
:
298
HOBA CPBHJA
h Crapo flojbe, 06ajia h OpaHa kslo Maite Maxa/ie. Typckh #eo aejiH ce Ha ABe rviaBHe Maxa;ie
UnraHCKH
BHrTteBH, OAMax ao cpncKor Aejia, h ropH>H Aeo, BpaHomeBau. TypcKH Aeo BapouiH je Ha 6ojbeM nojio>Kajy,
h jcahho Ha TOMe Kpajy HoBa Bapoui MO)Ke ce ujhphth.
Cp6H HMajy ocHOBHy uiKOJiy ca 120 150 IjaKa h
no cnojbaujtbocTH Jieny upKBy. ripe cy Cp6n HMajiH h
neBaHKO /ipyiHTBO 3opa", Koje cy Typun yKHHyjiH, na
je to hmc ca/ja j&to hobo-ochob3hom ApyuiTBy Tpe3BeHOCTH". HCTO TaKO CKOpO je OCHOBaH h Coko".
TypaH cy TaKoê HMajiH ocHOBHy uiKOJiy ca
150 200, tjaKa a HMajy h jeAHy uaMHJy, HHane neMajy
HHKaKBe xyMaHe h KyjuypHe yciaHOBe.
Kyhe cy y Hoboj BapouiH BehHHOM uiHHApaHe,
Ca BHCOKHM KpOBOBHMa, OCHM HeKOJIHKO 60JbHX H MOAepHHx cpncKHx Kyha. TjiaBHa yjinua je napuiHJa, Koja
ce Ay>K uejie BapouiH npOTe>Ke. y h>oj cy r/iaBHe paAH>e,
rocTHOHHue h Kacj)aHe. Bojbh xoTeji je HoBa Cpdnja"
h Ka(})aHa CpncKH Kpajb".
TproBHHa je totobo CBa y cpncKHM pynaMa. H3B03H Ce BehHHOM CTOKa H CTOHHH npOH3BOAH, OA KOJHX
cy qyBeHH KaJMaK h cyBo Meco, oahocho npuiyTa. Cao6pahaj ce boah ca okojihhm BapouiHMa Bp;io pljaBHM
nyieBHMa. Caâ je CBa TproBHHa ynyheHa jcahho Ha
y>KHue, aok je npe 6n;ia ca CKonjbeM h CojiyHOM.
Je^HHH HOBonpoceneHH kojickh nyT boah npeno
KoKHHa BpOAa Jby6nuja 3a y>KHue, ocrajiH cy nyTOBH KHpHUHJCKH h HeAOBpuieHH npeKo BHcrpHue 3a
:
npHj'enojbe h IlpH6oj.
y oko^hhh HoBe BapouiH Ha noMeHyTHM 6p^HMa

HMa ocTaTana oa Kapa-TbopêBHx maHaua H3 1809
roAHHe.
HeTHpH caia Aa;ieKO oa HoBe BapouiH Ha ceBepo-3anaAHOJ CTpaHH je MaHacTHp Baita, 3a^y)K6HHa
Kpajba B/iaAHcnaBa HeMaiBHha. y3 MaHacTHp je h Aocra
êKOBHTa 6aH>a, no kojoj je h ManacTHp ao6ho hmc
6.
UjbeBJbe
ceBep03anaAHOM Ae-ny hobocaHuaKa h oa 6ocaHCKe rpaHHue yâêHO
FIjbeBJbe ce Ha;ia3H y
na3apcKor
(IlJbeBtTLa).
CTAHA PAUJKA
36 KHÔMeTapa. npeivia TOMe oho je noc/ie IlpH6oja

Haj6^H>Ke Bochh h XepueroBHHH oa cbhx Bapoiun y
CaHuaKy. JIokh y Ma.ioj kot/ihhh n:beB/baHCKor noâ,
a c êcHe CTpaHe peKe TiOTHne. Bapoiu h no/be c
/ieBe crpane Tiothhc onKOJbaBajy 6paa h r/iaBHue:
Mhacthho Bpao, JanbH/ie, Vojiy6n\ha BopoBau, FViaBHua, BormueBau, BarH6eroBo BpAO, rLanjeuj h Maiba
n/iaHHHa KopHJeH.
Kpo3 BapoiLL npoTHne Maâ pe4Hua Bpe3HHua,
Koja H3BHpe H3 6e3aHa noa OpyiueBHuoM 11, Ae/iehn
Bapoiu na jiBSi Ae/ia, y LLIeBapHMa koa Mecra Abao
BHHe yêBa ce y TiOTHHy.
Bapoui je cacBHM MHCTa h .iena, niTojeMHHH Haj6o/bOM BapoiuH y CaHuaKy, a no mhctoth cnrypHO je
or Haj6o;bHX BaponiH oc;io6ol)eHHx KpajeBa. HnaK, nopeA
mhothx opneHTa/iCKHX oco6HHa (iiyhaHH c heneHUHMa,
Typcne Kacf)aHe, hqkojiuko xanoBa), oHa HMa H3r/ieA
cpeAfoe-eBponcKe Bapouin. y kojoj ce nopeA rope Haje
6pojaHHX rpaêBHHa Mory bhacth h MOAepHe paAibe,

6o;be Kac{)aHe, xaHOBH-xoTe.iH h MHoro /iennx npnBaTHHX 3rpaAa. Bapoui je noAe;beHa Ha ABa Ae.ia:
KBapTa
cpncKH h TypcKH. CpncKH HMa Tpn Maxa/ie
TyBna
Bapoui.
h
MyciHMaHCKH
naK
MoheBau,
to:
h
Aeo HMa cejiaM Maxa/ia Pn3BaHHJa, XaMHAHja, Xaun
XacaH, Mncnp Axmct, Xai,iH-3eliHpHJe, XyceHH-riaiuHHa
h UnraHCKa Maxa/ia.
n^>eB^>e no HaJHOBnjoj craTHCTHUH oa 1913 roA. HMa
mhhc MyoinMann a ocraCTanoBHHKa,
7940
oa kojhx
TaK Cp6n npaBOCâBHH. Cp6n cy y cBaKOM nor.ieay Kya
h KaMo OAMaK/iH oa Myc/iHMaHa, Koje je BepcKH 4)anaTH3aM to/ihko yTyKao Aa cy y Ky/uypHOM nor.iCAy
ocra/iH hcth OHaKBH KaKBH cy 6h;ih jouj npe 100 roAHHa, a MOKAa h bhujc.
Oa jaBHHX ycTanoBa Cp6n HMajy ocHOBny uiKO.iy
i
ca
500600 yneHHKa,
MeTBopopa3peAHy
rnMHa3HJy
Koja je npe 13 roAHHa ycTaHOB/bcna, h Hiucy AeBOJaMKy, oahocho paAeHHMKy uiKO/iy. 3aTHM, Cp6n HMajy
neBaMKO ApyuiTBO BpaTCTBO" Koje nocTojn join oa
npe 20 roAHna, a Koje je yc/ieA HecpehHnx npn.iHKa
y TypcKoj c BpeMeHa Ha BpeMe o6ycTaB/ba/io paA- Sfa
HOBA CPBHJA
i'iOO
BpaTCTBO" 6wi2L je yBeK h cpncna HHTaoHHua, Kojy

je Hdacy^HHa nocTH3aBaâ KaoH BpaTCTBO". 3aTHM
Cp6n HMajy CBOJy urreAHOHHUy, oHAMaHacTHpa Cb.
TpoJHue", kojh je ao npe hckojihro roAHHa paAHO, a
AaHac je cacBHM yMpTBJbeH.
Myc^HMaHH y BapouiH HMajy oko 10 ockobhhx
uiKOJia ca 1000
1500yqeHHKa, neiopa3peAHy rHMHa3HJy
HAaAHJy" h HH)Ky 6orocviOBHJy MeApecy". FIopeAOBora
TypuH y rijbeB^>HMa HMajy AeBeT ijaMHJa, oa kojhx
XyceHH FlaiuHHa" HaJBeha h Hajje Be^HKa uaMHj'a
6ojba. fIo3âheHH no;iyMeceu,H Ha Ky6eTHMa uaMHJe no
HapOAHOM npeAau>y cajiHBeHH cy oa KpdOBa ca MaHacTHpa MH/iouieBe. IJaMHJa ce Hajia3H y ueHTpy BapouiH, y niaBHOJ napuiHJH, Koja cbojom HMno3aHTHomhy yêniuaBa mrnen BapouiH. Cp6n y BapouiH HeMajy
UpKBe Beh nocehyjy MaHacrnp Cb. Tpojnuy, neTBpT caTa
yâjbeH oa BapouiH Ha iteHOJ ceBepOHcronHoj crpaHH.
UeHTap cpncKor jiena BapouiH je PacKpCHHua",
i\ae ce mecr y^nua yKpurra. Ty cy h Haj6ojbe Ka(J)aHe:
>KHBKOBHhaHMaHacTHpa CB.TpojHue. DiaBHH Kop30 je
Be/iHKa h uinpoKa yjinua y Bapoui Maxa;iH. Oa roCTHOHHua 3a npeHohHune h xoTeâ 3HaTHe cy: ABe
BaJHha rocTHOHHUe (xotc/ih) h rocraoHHua Be;iHKa
Cp6nja" y Bapoui Maxa;m. Oa 6ojbHx KacJ)aHa y ocra;iom Aejiy BapouiH jecy HapOAHa Bauna, Koja je jicth
oco6hto Jiena, h Ka$aHa ApyuiTBeHe nHBape.
Oa 4>a6pHKa y n^>eBJbHMa Ha;ia3e ce OBe ZlpyuiTBeHa IlHBapa, (j)a6pHKa univie h upena, h MaibH napHH
m^hh. flpe HeKOJiHKo roAHHa nocrojajie cy h ABe moAepHe nehn 3a cnpaBJbaibe Kpena. OHe AaHac He paAe,
nouiTO noTpe6y HCTora 3aAOBOJbaBajy Maite Ko;iH4HHe
npena Koje cejbaun cnpaBJbajy.
Haj6ojbH Aeo BapouiH jecre bojhhhkh ;iorop, kojh
ce Ha/ia3H Ha ceBeposanaAnoj crpaHH fljbeBJba. Jlorop
je npe 30 roAHHa noAHivia Aycrpnja 3a CBOJy BOjCKy,
a Tano ra je ypeAHJia ca hckojikko napKOBa Aa no
flenoTH, xHrneHH h bcjihmhhh cnaAa y Haj6ojbe ;iorope
Ha Ba^KaHy. y cpeAHHH HaJBeher h Haj6oJber napKa
HanpaBJbeHO je BeunaMKO je3epo Koje y npeHHHKy hme
oko 70 MeTapa.
CtAPA rALUKA
y TproBaMKOM
cfla6o.
On
KaKO
nor/icay n.beBJbe AaHac ctojh Bp;io

yKHHyT jiy6poBaHKH apyM h Be3a
oa Taâ je h TproBHHa CBeneHa Ha
ce BehHHOM TproBHHa h cao6pahaj
je
Hy6poBHHKOM,
MHHHMyM. Hanac
boah ca Bochom,
y Maôj Mepn. H3B03e ce cnpoBHHe: ByHa, KO>Ke h MHorH ctohhh npoH3Bo;m, a yB03H
ce BehHHOM KO/ioHna-nria h MaHyâKTypHa po6a.
Cao6pahaj ce Bpuin Ko/iHMa. H3 nêBâ BOê
ApyMOBH 3a FIpHJeno.'be, Meia/baKy YcTHnpaqy, h HeAOBpiueH apyM njbeBê CjeBepHH Py/io, kojhm ce
cao6pahaj Bpiun KOtbHMa, KHpnuH-ayKOM. Flo aaHaiuhdCm CBOMe no/iowajy, ho/ihthmkom noae;iOM CaHMana, eKOHOMCKe npn^HKe OBe BapoiiJH c aaHa Ha aaH
he onaAaTH, 36or Hera ce 6ojaTH j& h caMa Bapoiu
TOTa^HO He npona^He.
a/in
7.
npuSoj.
FlpH6oj je Maâ BapoiiiHua, ca cbojhx 8001000

craHOBHHKa. YaajbeHa je CBera 3 km. or YBua Ha 60caHCKOj rpaHHUH. JIokh c/iecHe cipaHe vlHMa, a H3HaA
ibera ca ceBepHe h hctomhc cTpaHe jxamy ce OMaifce
Koce h 6pna flaHa TâBa, Tonyuia. h Bje/iHHKa Koca.
C /ieBe nan crpaHe JlHMa, Ha jyro-3ana;iHOJ crpaHH
ripH6oja, ^H>Ke ce n/iaHHHa Bnh.
Kpo3 FIpH6oj npo/ia3H CBera jenHa r/iaBHa y/inua,
Ay>K Koje cy noanrHyTe Kyhe. OBy y/iHiiy c ;ieBe crpaHe
npoceuajy join Tpn Man>e y^Hue. V cpeaHHH npn6oja
h rviaBHe y/iHue Ha/ia3H ce Ma/10 noBehH npocrop npaBoyrviacror 06/iHKa kojh c/iy>KH 3a npH6ojcKy nnjauy.
Oko H>e cy h 6ojbe npH6ojcKe Kyhe no/inrHyTe. FIpH6oj no cbojoj cno;baujHOCTH HMa Hsr.iQn MHcre cpejxHeeBponcKe BapoiiJH, a h caMa Bapom ca cbojom oko:
/ihhom h
je HHCTa.
Ihmom
kojh
nopea
ibera
npoTHMe
Bp;io
H Cp6n npaBOCâBHH h MycriHMaHH HMajy no

je^Hy ocHOBHy ujKO/iy. Myc/iHManH HMajy ABe yaMHJe,
a Cp6n upKBe HeMajy, Beh ce MecTO hbe c/iywe Kanenow. JawH yTHuaj CBera cpncKora jacHO ce noKa3yje
ii
y3^H>KC iiaA TypCKHM.
302
hoba criMJA
m
Cp6n HMajy
ApyiiJTBO Coko Koje je npe ro^HHy

AaHa ycraHOBJbeHO h HHTaoHHuy Koja je npe ABa Me-
ceua ycraHOBJbeHa, noK Me^yTHM Typijn HeMajy hh jeAhc Ky^TypHe ycTaHOBe. Y CoKo;iy" HMa h hcko^hko
Myc/iOMaHa.
Oil jaBHHx rpatjeBHHa ripH6oj HMa M,sa Jiena xow
Tejia: ripH6oj
h BaHDy". XoTe;i FIpH6oj no cbojoj
ypeJ)eH0CTH cna/ja y Haj6ojbe xoieê oc;io6oijeHHx KpajeBa. Hcto TaKo je MoaepHa h Bp/io (J)HHa Ka(j)aHa koa
rio6paTHMa M Xotck h Ka(J)aHa Ha;ia3e ce y r/iaBhoj yjinixa Ha njiauy nnjaue.

npn6oj je no caâ y TypcKOJ no a^MHHHCTpathbhoj noaejiH 6ho My.nHp^yK, onuiTHHa. Ahckchjom
obhx KpajeBa on CTpaHe Cpdnje npn6oj je nocTao
cpecKO MecTO.
Iloâ caTa yâjbeH on YBua, )Kejie3HHm<e craHHue y rpaHHUH BocHe, y noc7ie,zufce BpeMe nocTao
je Bpjio )khbo TproBanKO MecTO. HanpeAOBaH>e npH6oja
h ^cHBJbH cao6pahaj Hacrahe Ten ca.ua, jep he caB H3B03
h yB03 ca Bochom H3 obhx KpajeBa hrh npeKo H>era.
Cao6pahaj ce BpniH KOJiHMa, ,npyMOM kojh bo^h
on YBua Ha npn6oj, a cuaivie y flpHJenojbe.
JXb3.
*&
<
a:
^
r
c
-
CejbaHKe ws CxoncKe UpHe Tope.
MaHacTup Cb.
FlaHTejjieMOHa.
Ilk'nHocTac
\Uk
yfupKBH Cb. Cnaca
UHl
napoHtUBo
u.i
fapa u
17 u IB se/ca,
oMUapy cAUHuy pesdapujy,

Hf>Kfiui(i,
paooet' de6apt
HfUuc jt o&tuttU MutuAetbe da
:p(i/;t'Hti
cpt
ttty
'
j<
MaHacTHp y ceny Hepe3y (CKoncKa UpHa Topa).
KoHauH y MaHacTHpy Cb.
ApaHije/ia y CKonckoj
UpHOJ TopH.
ManacTHp Cb.
floducHyiu
Aparije/il y
ciun.iy
>
CKoncnoj Hpuoj ropn

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Bafba KaTâHOBo H3Me^y Ci<on, ba h Be/ieca.

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it:
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y no3a#HHH 6pô
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koji flpmiena.
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Nova Srbija
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Novasrbija 00 Dedi

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Novasrbija 00 Dedi

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96

CPnCKA KH)H>KEBHA 3AHPyrA

oboj KtbH3H ,nao caM

HdHxobc BOjxe h h>hxob yiHuaj Ha OKo^HHy.

V4hhhm hx 3a HJHpy ny6/iHKy npHcrynaHHHJHM. Ako h

o6^acTH h npHpo^HHx nojaBa ja caM y Mojy KH>Hry

BHhy, Ta.naiiJHjeM OKpy>KHOM Hane/iHHKy y CKonjby, h

riopeA I. UBHjnheBHx, y H^ycrpoBanoM Ac.iy OBora

Mane^OHMJe h Crape Cp6nje. Beorpa/i 1906 1911.

Ba^KaHCKOM Ilo-ayocrpBy. Beorpan

FIpHJien y npBOj iio/ih XIV. Bena. IViac

H.cmpe6oerb II. C, 06i>maHH n iciiHTypeuKHxiCep6oBi.

CTapa CnGwja, KyManoscKa oG.iacT.

H3 nUapurpa^CKor F^acHHKa". U,apH21.) racuion rpaeuje, HoBona3apCKH

GaHuaK. Beorpa^ 1913.

28.) Dr. Jos. Mailer, Albanien,

und osterreichisch-montenegrinische Grenze.

UpHa Topa. Hacejba

cpiiCKHx 3CMajba u Kib.

Putovanja po balkanskomu poUmj.

iuotoku srednjcga vieka.

OniuTe oco6HHe reorpa4)CKor

i TaaBHe cao6pahajHe .iHHuje

HoBe Cp6Hje. Ba.iKaHCKo je3rpo

OO.IMUH (yTMliajti VMVTap-

h>hx 3evia.hCKHX cn.ia)

.Icjctbo je3epcKe Boae

McTopnj.1 paiBHTKa peMHnx joamia

'0 TparoBH najcTapujHx pcwHHX no.iHHa

II>hxobc (Jnhhukc oco6hhc

okoauhom Konana u Padoeuiuiua

X KocoecKa Ciuapa Cp6uja

naj3iia'jajHHja crioMeHHKa ciape

HMa H3BecHa cyMa nojaBa Koje yTHMy Ha oniuTC

yqacTBOBaTH y caBpeMeHOM jbyACKOM KyjuypHOM

oa ncmeTKa cpeAH>er Bena 6#Jie noA yTHuajeM ABajy,

OnujTe oco6HHe reorpa(J)CKor nojiowaja.

39 56' 50" h 43 u 38* 25" ceBepHe uiHpHHe h H3Met)y

no3Haia nca hmchom Me^HTepaHCKa 06;iacT. HnaBHe

H3Metjy B;ia>KHe h yMepeHe cpejifee-eBponcKe k^hmc h

Ba/iKaHCKHM riojiyocrpBOM He Mory

Koje cy Aoin/ie oa Be3a ca #oca^aujHDHM 6a^KaHCKHM 3eM^.aMa Tano cy H3pa>KeHe y

caMOda^Hy, npnpo^HO orpaHHweny uer.HHy. HaJMBpiuha

OBe cy 3eM.-be jxzkjiq ca cbhx CTpaHa 3aTBopenc

HMajia TaKO hhthmhc

CiapoM Cp6HJOM h MaKeAOHHJOM

KaHCKOM flojiyocrpBy. H3Metjy thx oco6HHa HCTahH heMO

Oihb MopaBe bcjihkh

je 38.280 km.-, a c;ihb

MHorH TpaHCBep3a^HH iiyieBH kojh hx AOBOAe y aoahp

h Ky/iTypHor 6H;ba. Ha noc/ieTKy, Te ce 3ajcHHHKe Be3e

Crapy Cp6njy Mowe bpujhth Cp6nja,

Be3e 6w\e oa MHoro Beher 3Haqaja, 36or Tora hjto je

BeHueM OcoroBa Ha Ma^eiuKe FI/iaHHHe, y npaBuy Ha

T^aBHe cao6pahajHe jihhhjc

3roAHHJe h Kpahe Be3e c HaJKyjiTypHHJHM eBponcKHM

obhx yAo;bHHa none^H cy TypuH pacnpocTHpaTH CBOJy

MaKeAOHCKor cTaHOBHHiiiTBa yTHua^a H3Je;iHaMaBajyhn, h to je H3a3Ba;io jeAHO/wKocr napo^He cno-

BeHCKe Ky/iType y ue.iOM crcHBy Bapiiapa h Jy>KHe

Kao HajBa>KHHJa npe/ia3Ha

Ba/iKancKO IIo/iyocrpBO je npuByK/io

kojh o6a;ie JaapaHCKor

AO TpqKe npeAdaBJba 3aTBopeHy MOpCKy o6ajiy. OHa