© GEOGRAPHIC.” MAGAZINE JANUARY, 1917 CONTENTS 44| The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: |/§ National Geographic Society Explorations in the Katmai District of Alaska Ef With 52 Ilustrations ROBERT F.GRricGs ||C “| Our Big Trees Saved 4] With 10 Tlusteations {| A Game Country Without Rival in America With 16 Mustrations STEPHEN R, CAPPS: i> 100 British Seaports Soh PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C.NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS, WASHINGTON, B..¢. OHO TITIMANN vaesinent JOHN E PILLSBURY MicerresioenT GILBERT H.GROSVENOR, cINEcTOW ANP EOITON JOHN JOY EDSON TaEASUREA. JOHN OLIVER LAGORCE — associAre-corron GEOHGE W. HUTCHISON, asuistamY secarrany 0. P. AUSTIN ‘ SECHETARY WILLIAM J, SHOWALTER . ABSISTAWY eairom BOARD OF MANAGERS 1915-1997 1916-1918, ie17918 CHARLES J. BELL Pian Lane ALEXANDER GRAHAM DELL Peeskteat Aimerican Security Secrotary ofthe intalar Tnventor ofthe telephone eee Henry. PF. Biount J. HawaKe Gone, cc. M. CHester ASW. GREELY Sep Adele Uy Se troy, Arce Bepleors Mado er F eee Civerer A, Gresvewor C. Marr Merriam REDERICK ‘Gecuernpiale ss ona adnmiy ot otras random sat dons E, Prunseuy Stalls "temas, Chiat’ tiread at Gacaca'B: Dua: Niwigation OH. Treva Comminsinner U.S. turenief RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN ies annecdetiesart imnthoes Managing ttiior The Evening vor Groros Sumas, 30 ee Hen Winer: Peace Tel, Machondtt Teemerty 12:5. ambarendot ean rena Mods aAcS Wane, Maly, Shige Phorwuranber S ae S.N.D. Nowrn JOHN M. Wits Cuanr Squmees Poctnaily, Diescibe New York read of Census To carry out the purpose for which it was founded twenty-eight years ago, namely, “‘the increase and diffusion of geographic knowledge,”* the National Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts from the publication are invested in the Magazine itself or expended directly to promote geographic knowledge and the study of geography. Articles or photographs from members of the Society, or other friends, are desired. For material that the Society can use, adequate remunera- tion is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage, and be addressed : GILBERT H. GROSVENOR, Eorror CONTRIBUTING EDITORS A.W. Gaency ALENANDER Geatam Bent C. HaRT MERRiA Davin PaincHi.p 0. A. Trermann Huan M. Saurin Roseer HOLLISTER CHAPMAN N. H. DarTos Waiter T. Swinate Frank M. Crarmanamilton UWeatch | “The Watch of Railroad Accuracy’ SJOMPLETE cased watches at "|| jewelers at $25.00, $28.00, i | $32.50, $40.00, $50.00, $60.00, ===) $70.00 up to $130.00 for the Hamilton Masterpiece in 18k gold:case. Ladies’ Bracelet Watches, $30.00 and $45.00, Hamilton Movement alone $12.25 ($13.00 in Canada). Ask for de- seriptive booklet, “The Timekeeper,” free on request, HAMILTON WATCH COMPANY Dery.a5, LANCASTER =; PENNSYLVANIA ‘““Mention-the Geogtaphlo—Tt identifies you?”COLUMBIA BARRIENTOS HE new-found treasure-voice of the Metropolitan Opera the world’s greatest coloratura soprano—can now be heard cn Golumbla Records exaleatenbe ATE the eugene utc of Rarientccil Fe in her first Columbia lecte recordings of ‘Silence O’er All” and the ‘‘Mad Scene” from ““Lucia,”” and the *'Valse"’ from Gounod's ‘* Mireille.”" Columbia Records are living reflections of the art of the greatest singers of opera. hey ¢ the voice, the interpretation, the personefity of such ‘0, Fremstad, Sembach, acbeth. world-famed artists as Laz Barrientos, Bonei, Gates, V Hear these records at your dealer's today—and you will have heard the artists themsefves! * Hearing is bel New Columbia Records on sale the 20th of every month “Mention the Geographic—It ideatifics you."’0010088 em $1460 $1150 Bath Prices f. 0. b. Racine occ oS Sixes on aE Mr. Bate’s New Extras ve by John W. nd8 goes into the un SN paid for by fnctory savings. which other cars r added cost, They cost us this year about $4,000,000. 100% Over-Strength first ery dollar we Bate’s effick met Mitchell ear. In this model factory—eovering 45 a fine car for less at leant one-fifth = else could lait: This ye ows in Mitchell extras, a . part. res—weé nre buildin; for th rw annown it, Now ever is twice as strong as need ‘This open enclosed, E saving goes into added recent to the cost = Wen ables us to xdd of finish, upholstery and result i8.a ar ands out clearly as ¢ handsomest ear in 31 Extra Features ‘Thi 8 Mitch- ell embodies 31 €xtra ry penny of that Alt this It en Mitchell aonm Price $1460, foo Mitchell Juniors Price $1150, fo. b. Racice Alsmrall ntsiee of enclosed.and convert. iMehodia. Also demountabie toms paid for by fact lifetime eresults of effi They are found in no other high grade car. You will want these extras— of them. Only th Mitchell has them: TY cent extra value, MITCHELL MOTORS aM Inc, Racine, S.A. mean 20 per phic—Tt Wentifies yon,"*Any Weather Is Billiard And Any Home Has Room Weather! | ¢ For a BRUNSWICK Table rith exch table ‘BRUNSWICA, HOME BILLIARD TABLES ‘““Montion the Geograpule—It fdentines you.'*No Other Six Resembles Hudson Super-Six Don’t Be Misled—It is a Hudson Invention Sixes have come into renewed popularity since the Super- Six won the top place. But the Super-Six invention— controlled by our patents—added 80 per cent to the six-type efficiency. And that 80 per cent is what gave it supremacy, when the V-types threatened to displace the Six. Lae in’ 1915, cemember, the Sie vat « wadiog type, Even the Light Sis, which Figdhon gero-Gat nk. hod revealed poms il capleering Kisitallont, nha ot volved the problemof motor vibra- tists Ithad not minced Faction and west. Iis ceducance hed proved clanppcintiog ‘Sizes at that tine belt hacdly « single recon, They were axeally tld by Four. ‘And leading engioners, including the Hud ae aces aaa a remedying aie elves, At thar tian the Six, for high inde carn, scored vergitg. om diplacemnent What Saved the Day Iwan the Super-Six invention, yemembes, waved the day lor the Si ‘Hachor enginoers discovered the short. c Biya basic invention they: corrected the fault. Thy ended neatly all the vibration. They doubled the motor’s endurance, This they chealed a miotoe sehich ha ince wow all the worth-while records, But that doen't mean tht tbe old-t Six ix any better than it wan. pee Twas the Super-Six That Won Tha Sispet-Sia. in k hundred tosty has omt= peslornied all other motor types. It har not icrely broken record, Itharmade new records Schich, 0 year ago, no man cornidered posible, Ui brake the 24-hour endurance recor! by ih broke the transcontiarnt ‘one round rip. A Supes Sie tauriny car weat from San’ Fraacheo New York and back in 10 days und 21 harurs It bear twenty famous rivala up Pike's Peake Ik broke all stock-ear speed recordyy and all for quick accelecatioe Then, after 7,000 recoid-breuking miles, it showed ibell in eye condition. Not a patt tr bearing showed evidence of went. No ther motar ever built han shown.aay~ whee saat such endurance, All By Saving Waste ‘The Sorag Sie deter oe, mm poet than other Bkereise mote. It sim Mt almeat cHsuinates motor frie- wear by ending nearly all tho vibration. That vibeation, which waited power, wor the groat lault of the Six, 11 ia that sebied led to the Eight and Twelve as a posible salmon. Any mooiar ia sehich that laull feuisa can't compace with the Super-Sts, A New Gasoline Saver Tie Huson Su in epdarance and ocmabos, stands loremont in the ond. Tie ew style dion take the pxchinive fy this year anothes . It now outsells any other {rom-rank can. 1 hae 25,000 enthustastic owners, who koow that ma rival cain match tbe, ‘Yoou ean prove ii themes tos And that og other car. eed with it Do tl demand overwhelms wi. $1482 ‘Touring Sedan US Town Cae cd Ta -Linwousine 28 Fawn Car Larnaiaulet | 30 et) TS) TAU Prices Feb, Dtroit) Limomsine Landaates ans HUDSON MOTOR CAR COMPANY, DETROIT, MICHIGAN “‘Mentiow the Geographic—It Idetitities you.'*As the jemenia ate mae i Dedgs Bisthers ear cating te aia to Dodge Brothers dealars oe to tho public. about them. ‘This dy 3n: porsmarce of .palley ine diguntsd. by Dodge Beatbers if hie berg Callens ‘They look upon the resaive: fiapesveinest ef the exp ab a cone steouree, Ke fa' a plalis diity' they ehdie'ta ‘theme selves aid to the pubic, Thete ix be necen of heral detaches The public finds out about them in due time, and expremes appre- Gikiiinad sonar ‘And 2, while the process of better: ment very day, nothing ix taicof itantil abberie is acantnplichedl: The car is basically the ame ear as it was two years ago. Yet. thera ime n. bit of doohe int that it ia a better car. The car of today in worth mote money: than the car of twe yearn aio, ‘The price is the same, but the car jam better car. Not because the coste of materiale have firseared—alibongh they. have. But especially because the stanrarde of construction have ‘bean’ ataadily: raised —the shop prectice made steadily Bner, And at the buyers of the first atm and: every etiperiaent ent. te> cgived full valor. Fines ta proven, Sipivkin fade Ahad at of the cars ve matter how long ago they rere bulkc wee Bhine sad ser. tice today. At in wtill further proven by the high pie oe command when sold at =e Good Value-Always GrowingGreater Toul Car Reactor, 8748, Winter Teurin Carer Roadster, $950, In Canmda. 31335 ‘Sedan, $1185, In Canad, S185, ‘Ailppices fh Data Dooce Brotwers. Deteoir Any car built ky Dodge Brothers though thrown out hy a recent eruption. The sun was shining brightly, but the sky was titled with haze from the volcanie dust itt the air, whieh incrensed the ghastly and mysterious appearance of the desert land- scape and veifol the upper reaches of the valley and ‘the volcannes we hoped to visit. As soon as we landed, we began 10 See evidences of the great Hood, which to be the source of much concert te a ‘The flats were everywhere covered ankle deep with soft. sticky mud. We were unable to find any place to pitch our camp hetween the precipitous mountain sides and the flooded flats, exeept a mound of, gvalanche detritus, which we felt was too tlangerous, for boulders and small-ava- lanehes were rolling dawn the mountain sides all aronnd us every few minutes. We finally reached a bed af pumice whieh had been floated imo place in a grove of poplars, Although there was very wet rind only a few itches below it, the sir face was fairly dry. We were in con-FOR STOCKING 9 SETT RS RANCH BEING LANDED ON KODIAK ISLAND antes in Bping alimiat ne L ¥ Alaska passes from th at of development, te i ae " to he much sought after for Phastowrxpe ty RL. Cg LOW! AT KODIAK the erupt for the first two word . were a hardly wuapect thas re ndcr a foot af ash only foursusie |srearr eatne | w— SKETCH MAP OF RAYS stunt fear, however, that the water woul}! ‘snddenly rise in the night and drive as. out, ‘The desolation of the country beggars description. AN af the trees had per- ished except such as were favored by some special circumstance, stich as prox imity to the protecting mormtain sides. Tp one way the trees and bnishes suffered more seriously than the herbage, for wherever the ground Ind been swept hare of ash the old! roats of the herhage sent up new shoots, so that ina few for- tumite spots Mowers were booming in their pristine profusion. Hut where the ash remaitied to the depth of a fout or more, the ground under the dead trees was absolutely hare. No vegetation had comme through cracks, as at Kodiak, and indeed such cracks may not have been formed becatisc the deposit here is much coarser grained. VOLCANO SND VECENTEY Under the mountain sides, where a few remmants of the forest retained ative. different species had suffered in different ways. ‘The only large trees. were the bal- sam poplars, All of the growing parts and ordinary Inds of these had been killed, but -some of the dormant bids, inuried deep in the bark, bad survived and grown vit into short, Iiishy branches which gave the trees a most bizarre ap- “ance. "The alder, whiieli te the most eharacter= istic Maskan bush, evervivhere was sim- ply exterminated. For our purposes this was somewhat fortimate, far it was easy to break onr way throtigh the branches of the dead thickets, which otherwise would have made traveling difficult. Not a single live sprig of alder was seen until after we had explored considerable coun: try, and then only two or three very snvallMAES, ENDUL berries that disatipents esxtreniely rlicate erry swith which the author is acquainted, shoots were “seca coniting. 4p’ from the Toots When we arrived at the village, the magnittide of the flood wad itnpressed on us as it could not be in the brush-cover dunes where th rsliipec arbed for nding ina sea of liquid mud. high-water mark could be plainly. se feet and 4 halt native hoitees were filled 1 the eaves with punk me had been completely submergerl, es might be seen hy the stranded ptmiice which had ed onte their roof: roof of one had been: floated sway. from the body of the house and Muy at a little di itly floated the high- somewhat The chureh had ev its foundation, f it were (see npposite page) tance. ee from at ced with sugar an rie UB WIRD WenRtes Ay G NIE rRoF USN OF Wve FIVE ANIEES Wine AND Fry ESCITES DET river, whose former bed was close by the houses, had subsided from the Hood conditian crntigh to, show its char- acter, Where formerly was deep was now a maze of quicksands and inter. twining sireains. So much materi: aoe teen dumped into it that the level of its hottom was several feet above its former channel. We coukl see no indication of the farther Somewhere out be yond the rau imore iain ble volume of water w later found t our cost s¢ shifting main ¢ eof our nntel vision we: in wi 5 renin But except for annels it ihed as five miles wide and five 5 deep We ventured far out irom sh whether it would beERK CHURCH AT KATMAT VILLAGE peer yy Ta ANTING IN THE AIUD AND WRECKAGE, FLO of Aluskn is still “Kussian America” Kwesian $s the langaage of the common people. anid the Greek Chitreh fe the only teligiome institmnos, Phintograpdes by 1 Th, Clonee DOWN RY OTHE GREAT 1/ A“nARANARA” NURIED Wy THE MOatIcE HROUGH AYSAL VILLAGE es aif the plains, are sell adapted to afford p om the intense gales of Wintermany feet deep. eral storm which quantity nt was thi th just passed, 1 of this river és undowhe Dst serious obstacle f the distries Whi 5 treaclicrous to travel ¢ pack, the steht tis ‘Our fist thow which thal awhelmed the Tun tion’ showed that the bh ar aboye any tide-marlc thou volcan we had no kaw m Of the volcanoe Bit the ex. raed mre up the valley ve vol the e respect: Mltho io dowkt but that the flood ei! only. a day or two bet , everything indicated that i wa exceptions is too aincertath place to land greatly magnituile ilighte volume of water k sidering: the ulthough the n wet ily hau picker! up nine wantil it westerly pale the might fh ‘om the Mou Fe1 perfectly eal! wi jad changed the haze of About noon we fell uiiting om into a (errific.dust-storm the state of the weathe € the dust so thick that it ablite ything be: storm and were su searching yerul 1 ity. dt per- the sky at being able to find the sus i put oir camp. W ise wat visible, a pale white ly worried lest it should g omething like the moon in daytime, but into our ea ruin all matted our hair so that we ¢ comb it for days. Th WeTe EXTTET eras 2 It would be quite impos sharp particles to describe our feeling ed acute discomfort i our we groped our way forward ine ney country, erly dif nit from amy we ever seen before. Fortunately. the andy surface of the ash every where field our tracks, so that even with Ie addesyurately this day, 3 at first we were niraid that it-might de tas permanent injury ; but after atime the irritation stimulated an increased fh the tear ghinds, which help sel ¢ at our compass we could hardly this day of dust-storm we ¢ex- become lost the valley as far as Sotukn Creek. The due ned the already weird FOLLOWENG AW DEAR RATE character the kindseapi an We f awed all ‘ell-wornt nance. The bear trail wh ¢ that of a heavy snow- inereaseil by the ut- the hare trees, Inilecd, s0 ke were the vintal set rm the with a start of surprise ih (see also page 17 that the bear ing to be - Te was the hear (rails, except le branch inte very noticeable th vf a snow avery I while Tw at) we up and had mare no the river. Apparently mwit the Attempe t1 thy tio, rear a Ta the right they Had Learned by that Everywhere we kept rs, but, although ny tracks belonging 1m ve dick not see we Were father fear that we should come ny, for in such a barren bur believe that they niust he hungry, and im tiny event a she bear with oubs isan ugly to settle with ¢ this region are in size to the Koval st carnivorans animal i shi 50 large as te mute a fully griz a euli by comparis Later, after we had traveled many days Without seeing one, we began to be as anmch concerned for a sor at as we had! heen at frst for fear we should. ‘They doubtless saw ws many times, bat and kept out-of our way, Tt tamother and cubs ris than the who had been advancing toward us had panther turned and retreated on our for we found wi tired up the va ony returntir i fur sent a tn ‘iste side our own footpri tracks. measu eet pally read the f Jeast have learned OTHER s Besiiles ‘bears nt as we fra were alsa freqten! we used. Oh have passed close we clintbed amo ere thy ently just made, sudder cr ane . Some ¢ tear that we could im their soles, doutitless. w tine of the possessor or at lant, and we could fre long, ir trac aly revers We of our the bes in, for we found Ii i tracked us nm we saw bee- ce the marks Wolverines travelers. along the of the latter mustTHE VALLEY OF TEN such a.desert country: we were absolurely: dependent om our provisions, and if a heat or wolverine should take i into his head to wreck our camp in aur absence we should have beet ta liad yay. ‘Three oF four tiles up the valley we came out into the open, where we could see the di 1s of the main range. Standing synire across the head of the valley stood Mount Mageik, its magnificent three-peaked snow-cays bril- fant jn the sunshine. Froty a amali crater cast of the central peal jssned a column of steam, which, although clearly isible for 50 aniles out tn see, appeared diminintive in comparinon with the bulk ‘of the tountain (sec p e 30). Mount Katmai jisel! was conevaled be yond the lend of the valley, so thar we Were to have no glimpse of it until we encamped ap its font ANEW VORCAXIN NAMED FANE CML FEAWTEN But to the west of Mageile. in a posi- thon where no volcano is indicated on thy taps, was tising fram a cumparativ Jow mountain a tremendous column of steam a thousanil feet in diameter and roore thaa a mile high, Comparison with Homer's picture showed at omce that this was the moun- tain he photographed as “Mt. Katmai, Wher he penetraced 1 the upper valley in 1913. Eb awas clear ctiocighs en te ines ligt that it could not be the mountain called Katmai on the maps, which is east of Mageik: Even from our position it was evideiit that this was at present the nibst active voleano of the district. And it was not at all certain: trap that this, rather than Katmai, had heen the seat of the great ctuption whose effects we were studying: for, curiously enough, there hus never bx very positive eviderice, beynnd the statements of 1 few natives who saw the beginning. of the eruption, that it was Katmai, rather than some other volcano in the vietnity, which exploded. Indeeil, there was one well- informed man in Kodiak who assured us that he hail climbed the mountains back of Amati Bay and taken bearings which fixed the location of the vent nearer the coast, ina position whieh he indicate! tiv 9 crass.on.my chart (see map, pare 23). THOUSAND SMOK! ES Fortunately we were able later to ab- tain evidence which fixed the seat of the igfeal eruption beyond question, Jn the first place, we found that the deposits becatie progressively deeper iis we ap: proached Mt. Katmai, while the voleane of Hesse and Herer's photographs was near the edge of the ast fall.” Thus the deposits ‘on the lower slopes of Katmai are 15 feet deep on the level ; but 10 miles farther south, near the other volcano, their depth is to he measured by us many inches, and only a nile or two lieyond the cuutitry is covered: with vegetation, so rupidly do the deposits thin out in that direetion, Moreover, great as is the ac of this volcano. its crater, in compari¢on with the great caldera, whieh we later found in Motint Katmai, is relatively di- tilmitive and quite too small to have threwn ont fact a tremendoms quantity of ash and pumice in so short a time, Further, great as inst have been the shanges wrought in the landscape in the sudden opening of a vent a thonsand feet in ismeter, they were relatively insig- nificant beside the tremendous change we found in Mount Kaunat itself, here can be no question therefore that the eruption was from Mount Katmai and fot front any other vent. But if we were coined that the val: cano of Hesse and Horner's photographs was tot Katiiai, we were equally Gneer- tain of what ie was, for none of the maps y volcano near its location nor y the mountain, and there appears to be Heither record nor tradition of any voltano in that quarter; There ix every reason te beliewe, there woleano sprung inito heing. at th cof the great explosion. fit tremendous as is the phenomenon. of the opening of such a'gignntic Vent thraugh a mountain, we were to find later other aecampariments of the great erup- tion of even greater magnitude. - In order to discuss the new yolkano, it ig necessary to give it some designation, Tt seomed to tts as we watched the new “steamer” that no pame could be more appropriate than one commemorating the work of Dr. George C. Martin, whose orsitions and report for the National‘reese p stood on AvCAM ot 1913 ‘On fiir first exiiddtitian ovr feet dey, wccapied the eamplelely filled wp, seventy at the leat anda new channel has been dig a thottsand feet amas joistusl that tha embers of car eump-tire, on 9 rat alisturbed, Compare the picture op the op Geographic Society will always stand as first aunt of the great eruption of Moubt Katmai, We ther fore suggest that this new. vol called Mount Martin. We were not able to ¢ sition or altitude of th precision, but mately on the map given on page Althongh situated in the main range, i termine the p voreane 4 it considerably lower thay the neighhoring saygumtaine, Ititude is approximatel 5.000 feet. ASH SLIDES WOME THAN A THOUSANt PERT 11GH When we reached uka Creck we found it much more forsiidable than our reconmoiters in the dust storm had indi- gated, waving the otherson the bank, E dropped my pack and waded out through the dead forest for half a mile in the icy foreground of the present picture Phistojgraiph by 1 Th Ch ILLED BY BLAST FROM. TIE VOLCANO i the bank of sel se snl ‘kle Creek, whose chai Turing the year the yn of the former tank cold not he detected, Wet 56 gently was this filling accom the same level and only a fow fect away, were pposite page. water. From that distance it looked wider, dicper and swifter than from the tarting point. [therefore deetded it was impracticable to attempt to cross under our heavy packs, so we camped that night in the dead forest on the flat near by. Next morning, starting to hunt for a practicable ford, we climbed up on to the shoulder of a mountain where we could get a Inrd’s-eye view of the creck below and. select the Hikeliest place tre. Tlete we found a new experience in climbing the great ash slides with which the lower slopes are covered. Wherever the moutitaing were precipitous and too steep for the ash to stick, it slid down into the valleys, coveriigg the Woiver slopes with great fans of sand, which stand at the critical angle ready to slide down the slightest provocation. Some of th ash slopes are more than a tharisarid feet high, ‘Their surface is lose, rolling sund,THLE DED OF FX CREE TS TOTO into whieh une sinks ta his ankles, while continually stides down an te Often the whole sli to move mill, above weve will nd then he is placed in a where he mast keep moving the bottom page alvin wats. of hard w and we air finger-ails a wore the tips of our fingers dawn to the quick in the sharp sand by using our hands to help us in climbing. SG SOE OF QuIEKsaxn Wher we descenied te the ford we found that the hotrarr wasn contimons quicksattd clear acre Sometimes the surface would hold like the crust of a snowdeiits but we were in onstm fear of going down, fer on sounding: with oitt alperistock: we discar- ered that \ e who town into the sand ams ning battom. Often ving and d ourselves flown dering ip With all peditie he eonld not get aut lone was th veTspresent kt never tauched the bettom what might happen next time. the piletle ine qr mir crassings in the AS no one ever got in so-vleep that But ther that we Ty WA SIETPTED A THOESANE pack through lefy de Tt ust lhe experienced d. Evory » takes all and soon of am the strain m, there ix tio. chanee to il one reaches the farther shore, for there t+ no place to lie down or sit down, and if one even stands still he immediately begins to Even the strongest man is well. h exhausted after a mile of such work ch wit is pecttliar in the ex wh and that streams chi through the tin a my - mstic way their cnurses con tinnally, stream is never: the same for half an hour at a time, The whole hottane is rapidly ing flown stream, its contiiuons, steady iiotion re- sembling one of platiorms whi used to transpart passengers Cine stream near our camp had cut clear throngh the accu naes of ash just below a fi 1g a bluff some 70 feet high hundred ya downstream, however, the slope, thon ill very. steep, was less, and the stre: had heen completely overcome by the orminus quantity of pumice in its way was tuiliceous to wateh the strayeoveritig the hiner oid verted with) the yam med Hp in the faiture previous attempt, 1 tvould lave enough energy for a new effort, ‘Then suddenly brealing q any its Leinaels, orld rist far- ward down the slope, pushing a pile of cc hofore it, as though to engulf the writhing this way and thot like a live thing, picking up pi and floating them along as it € fore it had gane far, however, ite sew load would literally ehoke it, nd it wont givo up the struggle in a hiss of gratis pumice stones. [twas quite a probleti to secure water from such water always catried such quantities of large arigular pumice fragments, nol to speak af satid und mm, that it was out GF ie question te-aiempt to wash in thn If we tried, the gumnice woul se grin! fata our flesh as to prohilit any further efforts at clean But while washing ler ne mist drink whether or 10. obliged everywher choice, We » teen for the ih: ip SH stown reat Tans af sand” (see text, pate 64) train aur water through one of ot food- bags: “Oitem we sw WA Haye to strain a (art ef pumice to get a pint of water: The streaa charged so rapidly thie we sometimes hail to moye hetore we could fila bucket. Strnining, of eott wl only the coarser grit Abone of the eamps.aur water ans so fall of mul thit Mr. Folsom refuse) to wash his face for three days, becattse he ‘did not want to.dirty, it with the water we lad to: ibrink.”" CAVERNS POWMED BVUSNOW AtttL WENE ATH TE agit ‘the duy after crossing, Soluks Creek we climbed the mountain to the west in hopes of seeing th for we feared lest the fine whieh hi ent! before Onar quest We reached yotler sunt tmarkeld on omr map, cat off aur that we conld not see Mont Kat- This We called Barrier Mountain, we saad attain onr oh however, ¥ th mit view‘hata B.C SLIDE; SOLU A CHEEK Sime. of thes’ slides shrew Gut Into glauntie fairs mone ingle, their slopes are very hard elimbing, We soon: ground our Stunsling at the critical thin a thotiaund feet ijl, finger-naile to the Gnick in the shay sand of these sliics We tried to toss the yiass ty reach a position where we could see the condi Hon of the valeano, but were balked hy’ a new kia ‘On the way mp one of us, staff into the groatud hurtler than sual, discovered that ik wont throngh inte a cavern eneati ii shinwed that we Were stp. ported on aj arch of ash a foot thick, spanning a deep hole, We found that te wiourittie every where were deeply cavereit with snow, which was concealed by a mantle of ash. and pumice blown over it by the wind. ‘The snow beneath was rapidly. melting ‘ont in the warm weather, leaving the ash stirface standing ax smooth as ever above the cay Sich small holes as the one into which we hail accilentally broken were, of course, of no conscqmence; bunks we looked down one af the side yallevs, we ey 1 could see great cave-ins saventl smooth ash fehl, where a stream bmrrow= ing thramigh the showdriits beneath tail undermined the surface. For half a mile or so the funuiel thus mide had caved in, and then for another half mile at was still intact, viving no inilication of its presence toan unwary traveler (see page 41). Reflecting on the significance af such 7 rts, We caretully chost a path free fram all appearance of buried snowdrifts, We had nut gone a hundred nds, however, when T happened to Samp my foot and was astonished to hear the ground betieath ine ring hallow. We quickly retrented, spread out, and tried another place. “We had not gone far wher all three uf Gs at mee, though feet apart, detected » cavern beneath tis We had absolutely no means of judging whether the hole was 3 feet deep or 50, nor of estimating the strength af the roof. The danger of such a situation was altogether tho great to. wiertake, so we reluctantly turned back, with as yet no view aF the volcano, SELIUNG VALLEY OF Deartr he following day eirele the mnurttait AS Ww we started pen imo upper Kat prncesied the country vely more desert, Small nthe lower The stilltess of Was oppressive. One ay without hearing. a sound but his own footfalls and the plunge of rust er. ‘The bear trails persisted until we turned the corner into the upper valley, but there they disap mit here, the dead forest could travel alla Thy Bh, Oh THe HUES ALE. DENTE LOULY STRETC HS OF SOLUKA cur A must confess that éven after many crossings ¢ streim velthiolt rlshiap Fconld never plunge in witout a shudder of dren¢ from the middle we could see fivither shore, its swift current everywhere churning: the quicksoad, it presents a fevrmidiabte obietack man carrying a pack. 1 was in ¢ sme fismiber of the furty would he mired im its depths, fr, although knees, we contd plunge the Ini! Iemgth af our alpeastock into the quicksand anywhere without finaly bottom (see text, page 35) peares youd ihat point there wete po been affected; and whem we reached the signs of animal fife, except. pair of bald forks of the river we found that the eagles, which reconnoitered ote camp the whole food had come down fron: unter first nig few mosquitos no itself, wreaking havoe in its oudy enough, « humming-bird A deep channel hid been eraded which secmead’ strangely out of place in in the pumice deposits, Part of the way 1 te valley of deaths hail washed out all ef the pumice and Clouds hung so low that Hf ent into-its original bed heside above a thousand feet was obscured, but For miles where th forests had stood. as we pushed np into the valley a fecling the trees were sheared off of tremendous awe porsensed We af the ash (see picture on pa at later, after the stream had eut y the pumice, exposing. the stumps fey trees whieh remail splint ad broken in escribable manner, In places, sheltered froin the extreme fury of the waters, the trees were piled high with driftwood. The vohime of water had heen enor As We proceeded, eviderices OF food mows, We found high-water mark damage rapidly increased ; but we nioticed 25 feet tbove the hed of the that none gi the tributary streams had where the valley was two miles w had quite exhansted aur stock. of super Latives in the lower valley and found. our selves altogether without means of: x- pressing the feelings that arose in us oF ‘of describing the scene before us. The MORE EVIDENCE OF 4 THEME FoonTHE AUTHOR STRUGGLING THROU The swift water rimming over the ash amd pumice parks the surface, giving it a an and sometimes breaky under hs weight. biel sometimes Wok. for a few. we abl lich suddenty dr mewhat Tike traveling im mnow with a wenk erust own ty ity waist Photograph ry Bee Feta THE QUICKSAND OF KATMAT RIVER usr (Crossing these flats will go aking easily nnkte deep he labor involved in euch travel On eannt be deseriied, hot mint be experienced to be appreciated (sec toxt, page at} Z As we gradually came fully to compre- hend what a tremendoms catastrophe this flood iad been, we were more anid more thankiul for the good liek which had, delayed our expedition umtil'after it had gassed. Tf we had hinded a week eurlier, we woul! certainly have beet over- whelmed, unless: hy chance we had hap- pened to be om high ground, ont of the valley, at the time.of the disnster, We had finally penetrated as faras we could up the valley and. camp “ hoped, abont opposite Mount Katmai tnt we conld, not be sare of ott position, for the elotats titing low. 8 PLOW OF NIGHT KEM ot TWO MILES LONG Here we beheld a formation quite dif- ferent from angthing else we lial seen, A tavine which branched off from the main valley behind a spur of the mown tain was filled by what looked like a great slot was a bright MOE THEA terrascotta red In every detail of its form excopt for its crevasses it was ex- aetly like a glaeter: beginning Ht a con- siderable elevation, where the ravine was narrow, it sloped evenly down to the valley level, widening as it descended, so aS to assume a triangular form, Af the color had not been so from overvthing else in the kind would have been quite sure it was a glacier covered with dirt, But in a situation no glactor could have es without a thick covering of the omni: present ash We. conchuded, therefore, that it must be amass of mud which had run down off the volcano, Laer, when we visited it, its atrueture ‘onfirmed this theory. As ‘it lay.an top of the ash. it had evidently been formed shige the eruption. Althorgh it was hard and firm, so.as to Ie easy. walking, both its structure and its form showed clearly that it hid reachied irs position ina semi- fluid condition. Like a glacier, it had aRESTEN relatively steep front “anil was convex. highest in the middle, so-as to turn the drainige aff 1 the ig cach of which & deep canyon had beet ett. Hut despite the indications that it had once been tivid, we or other evidens ing out, such as one_would have to find in a mud-floye, Ts length we estimated by our piel Its highest part attained a nearly 1,000. f ain which poittt it sloweil 10 abont 300 fect at the hase. We re not so well able to estinuite its thicl But the edges where it wis depth af the valle an, this ane other sim ir later found, develop very vugraphy, <0 that on FeLamil ti one miglit ris urine himscli to he in western North Dakota if it were tnt for the streams trickling everywhere from. the melting snows. When the mud dries it becomes hard and holds its shape, so that the sides of the THY Tieatt, eullies remain vertical, a5 they.are ct the streams. and do not crumble wonlil softer svi LAVA ALL wows HO HieaGares is the o the crater We were wery mich 31 F the ejecta close enitrent itt prised character Postcards ing great rocks which are sa “hurled froma th an0, ves had expected to fined something the sort. The fact is, however, that the violence Of the explosions was thing which eaqm blown ty “emithiere ice six inches find, and the very ak ska. sh heen ent. jirgest pleee we could + Mount Katmai was than nine inches in its longest dimen: Nowhere was there any flow of lava in with the recent eruption that the Java as it rose through the throat of the volcano was so heavily charged with-gases, mostly steam, wider enormous pressure, that on reaching the sur into a froth af pum either blown by the stidden exA SNOWDREY COVERED DY TWO FEET OF WISD-BROWN AT NIWEAGH. H, NEAR K, AP SEACLEWEL, JULY F3, ‘Thus protected from the sun, me ine of the snow ie vo retarded 1 at in many plies formerly uncowered early inthe season the soow-nmow fails tote amd te ae lati rig peur hy year pansion of the inelivded gas or exploded af course, still retaining the passibility of and tas completely disrupted, forming later hecoming the means of revegetating es andl dust, Qn first thought one awed by a foree that could har! great rocks throngh the air than one which merely throws up ashes aml dust, Bur when one reflects thatash arid pumice rock blown to fragments hy th of the explosion, he that much forces are involved than would he required to toss bonliers about, apt ta be more CROSSENG ITE KIVIEE alley, jw of the voleang, some few remnanis af y ect in sh tered nooks on the steep moudtnin side. desolation af the In one climb we found Tiving plants .of deviketuly, lady-fern, salmon-herries, at willow, a sedge, anid a bedstriw. The ‘af must of these were injured { the margins, and in general they appeited more dead thas alive, thotugh, intr CiWr next venture was to try to the river to examine the lower slopes of the yoleane and the mud-flaw, This. ws found a very formidable undertaking Alshough the stream was divided into many chamuels, none ai which was decp, it Ww > Swift mast to carry us aw Indeed, both Fulton and 1 went down wider its current and succéeded int getting ont only with dificulty, We did hot mind the ducking, even thon water was icy cold, but we were in fear of wetting our precious came page 34). A secosD ross Ss (see NeW WoLeX! rnc ren ng, the sky and when we woke we twheld Off to the westward f from be After two days of wa cleared the whole range. seats at steady eolumm, Mount Martini, wh: tear thsi I) was coneealeHt GREW Our experie even accustomed to stupendans dine size of he. wun size of the slille © my axtonishmusit, when he emer rely shale: hin wt, yu a height of nearly 4,000 fee hind a foothill, which, from is position, we named Obseryation Mountain, Next were the three peaks of Mount Mageils (see page 32), covered with newly fallen snow, Across its northwestern slopes fortnerly tan the trail to Rerig. Sea, across Katmai Pass, which, thongh re: puted difficult and dingerous, looked very easy from aur position. Cin the purtheast sid flanked by a lofty three the yp keil vol which we called ‘The Trident (sie 65). [ts three peaks are, arranged mw semi ar fashion, leavinue betwe them an amphitheater open taward mai Valley, whieh looks somewhat like an ancient crater breached on are side. ‘The highest peak appears fram the valley like an almost perfect come, trameated the top.as though by a crater, Its he 6.790 feet. us given by the t fissure at the The present crater is ASH SLID OF ein taking this picture furnished an amusing examph jong 8 Wve Ws by which we were stirronnded jd Le patted, | sent ane of tlie men 1 id from the forest s find birt in the resulting pleture. eee text, paige 34) ure SLID, of our inability, to form any teal conception of the Desiring to have a. seale by which the con it for that purpose: but, ti nil began to climb up the slope F eonkl ‘Gur triopgutation gave it Iuse of this-peak (altitude about 3/500 fect), fram whieh issued, somewhat in termittently, a column of steam, AL thotygh the volime of this steam: was quite small jn comparison with that of Mageik and Martin, it sometimes ns sumer quite respectable proportions, rie ing 3,900 feet or more, ‘There is good reason to believe that this vent also ap. peared. in comnes with) the great eruption, onm rinsr simran Next in i Mount Katmai it StOUNT RATTALAL Je [rine stood s was quiescent during our visit and at first sight pre- vered) with ash as from ceniparison with Mott Mageik As we studied it. how ww that its great bulk reducThe crest, as_seen froin the valley, forms a great-are some three miles: in length, high- est at the ends, and broken in the middle by a sharp, tooth-like rock, whieh stands ap out of the lowest place in the rim Even from the valley the edges of thiseury- ing rim are so sharp ais to give the top a hollow appearance, in- identi the great crater within (p. 48). MOUNT KATMAT 1S NOW MERELY a stun OF 11S FORMER ULE Although Mount Katmai was seen by many white men be- fore the erupt there is no record of any photograph or scription of it: sot there is no very nite means of rleter- mining the configura tion of the mountain before the explosion It was higher than Mageik, however, and originally must haye quite overshidowed the latter, because though: mel: less eon- ously phiced in The Ce hart of the dist sont chart, it is evid beak of former days oming back into th the total desolation of 1 > page 49) A ROCK WHTEH ROLLED OFF 7 Wik, WE WATT 1 Geodetic $ how: tnwck grea! wer val uF a three ked mountain with an elevation. of The highest p while the middle north 7.260 ft gave its name to both river ake was to the risa with its pres: But even ven ly the nt that the preset mon af ter he country in the ‘Puen hy Ls Cries © MOUNTAIN 6! RE UP THE VAR ACKOSS Ontke v sharlow of the volcanoes was like fins ing the earth after a visit to the inferno. jow green the trees looked! How the birds sang! How beautiful the green motrnital And this was the itry on which we had ed nity superlative: of devastition effort to compare it with Kodi ves had not fully realized the awful devastition nuar cao nmtil we felt the relief from emplation in the ver the viainity of the ruined’village were tmuch reliewal vo find our though a wolverine y he had evi wis Of such fresh signs not disturbed! anything: 1 to look for Mr, dently beet susp of tan and Onr July 20 we begJohnson to come ta take us Imek to Kodiak, accoring to appointment. We Tearned Liter tht he tried to us both that day and the next, Int was un- ahle to land, On the gtst, however, the weather was cleat and calm, so tut he able te get ashare, We were rejoicing it the prospect of av speedy return to Kodiak, Int soon found that our troubles were, not for before he could get us off a “nor easter” blew up, So that he had to. aban- don us hastily on the beach and make fo his boat with the word “Back at the first chance.” “The sea rose so quickly that he had difficulty in regaining the stoop and renching a plice af safety, Tt was tic return derable ing for three days that he was able and then, although there was con surf running, we lost no tine in ge aboard (see page ANIZING TH ENPEDITION OF 1916 Fried ont of Phe expevlition of Tort on substantially the same lines as th the preceding year, ¢xeypt that it wis possible to organize the work more ther- oughly an comingene’ coy with h could not have heen nthe experience of the 1s year. “The party consisteil of am, Me D1 Church, as pho- tographer, and myscli, ‘The experience the previous year showed the necessit Cerploy Ment Of a packer als. Here we met one of out i ar we found th afraid of the volesna ed to o to the mainkam ched the matter to the chief, he "Me no I mini," and ow af later that he tind. arlvised his followers, “Life is better ths monex,” i problem most. happily met, however. when we thonght of Walter Mattuken, the celebrated. one - handled hear hunter of Kodiak. He agreed to go without any hesitation and stuck to. his promise, although, as we fownd aiter- ward, the aiher natives nged all sorts of eUTeMs Xtreadiyiis ero ascone bis: fuller bax cause of his many exploits as a hunter,#he was doubly so when he returned sa fel having actually lyoke 10 “The Hole out of which had com the devastating: blast. fven Walter, how- ever, Was very ner ous on the crater rir keeping sheltered bi hind a rock a good share of the time and shifting about uneasily as he watched as work, finally remari ing when hie theught we had averstayed our tim: Jan't make nothing-up here." THE BAR TW: KODIAK rite oF Walter was one of those strong char acters whom ane finds among all classes, whe stand ‘put superior their fellows. De- rived of. his right hand by a hunting ace cilent in his youthy he ore than men with twa. We found nothing he Cuter these plants was h could not do, ever to fpecies (een ay bh tying knots and roll ing cigarette But when there me a place where heeded some one to handle a boat 1 ‘The site of war eamp of the previous supposed that finally Thad found his year we found buried under 20 inehes of limit, for L could not imagine how any fresh pomice, wi the mountain man could handle two oars inoue hand, ide, while x stream had eut its bed across sp, however, for in a flash he had luce where our tent had stood. The Alf tewcriifal of dead insects oF maity ground}. which had Ween at sane thither in a vain search the most strilcing change in the ayer valley ed in 1916 wax the yreue almundance of insects, where there lly none the year befure ‘ ashed of somehow lashed one oor to his stub and year before this stream had heen so yards rowing along as well as anybody, stant and we never dreamed that it he general appearance of the country come our way, As we- journeyed was much the same as it had been the up the. valley, we feund other similar year before: lut the mountains were changes, but the general conditions were greener. and even on the Hat sceillings but little different were heginning to-start, When we begar aka Crock to exumme old landmarks, however, we quicksands that had almost turned us back found that while the general appearances the year before, [must confess that as were unaltered, there 1 great many times as we crossed Soluka Creek changes in detail T never got used to it, Although we s the samote (be Sr wit AN TLLUSTHATION OF MOUNT KATMAI AS [TWAS AND 18 Showing: the orjginal imoutituin reconstructed. the present ctator tim, and the crater with its ‘hoiting take. depth qf the erater, never had an accident, [ never could free myself trom the dread of the crossing arid the fear that the next time it would “get one of us. GRAND VIEW CAMP When We arrived ar the head of the flat we pei. or Cain site so as to command a view of the surrounding. mounting. ‘The marks.of the great flood were no longer fresh om the: ground and it was evident that. there had been no sintilar catastrophe during the year that had elapsed. We therefore had no fear of w repetition of the Toad and did not Liesitate fo carp ont in Hit open, choas- ing, in fact, an tékond in the river, which, altiough being eut away by the swift water at the mate af several yards a day, was safe enough for the period of our wisit, T never expect to be privileged to have a camp site surrounded by grander seen- ery than was this ishind, On the east side of the valley was the waterfall that we christened Fulton’s Fall, nearly a mile away, but the more impressive for its distance, framed in between the bril- liamt orange ind green slopes of two mountains, which we called Slide Moun- jain and Avalanche Mountain, and backed tw the rich ted. precipices of Barrier Mountain, ‘Phe latter, though im fealty several miles away, at the head af a val- ley, appeared sct just a few hundreil feet hick of the fall, which has the majestic, sweep attained only by falls of much greater height than breadth, Woolyeuth Huilling, drawn to the same scale, give an Wea of the Farther up at the head of the valley stood the t,500-foot cliffs which guard the entrance to the dimer canyon of Kat- mai River, while towering aloft.over in accessible precipices the summits of Slide: am) Avalariche Mountains themselves presented fine enough spectacles to. com- mand attention in any other setting. But ete they Were eclipsed, for on the other lc of the valley we equlf see the whole chain of glacier-eovered valcanioes of th main range in continuous serles, broken only by Katmai Pass, whose 2,700 feet looked tow indeed by comparis From north to south were Katmai, ‘Trident, Mageik—partly hidden ‘behind Observation Mottatain, and finally the distant steam from Martin (map, p. 23) Tr was evident that the activity of all the yents was somewhat greater thin the year before. There could be no longer any donbt fut that considerable steant was rising from Katmai, whereas the year before we could not be certain of any activity. ‘The column from Mageik wits larger, and there was a small column rising from a point well down on the slope of Martin which we had not seen before. INDICATIONS OF ACTIVITY.ON THY: DERING 4 SIDE GU THE RANGE ion to these vents, every time r we Saw very definite indica tions af more volcanoes on the other side of the range. Through Katmai Pass we could sec twa large clouds: when every-THE VALI all, was’ clear ‘except the ss." Over the isthmus connect- fog Katmai and ‘Trident we saw, ad we had in 11s, similar signs wf activity. ‘These were, however, very puzding,. elusive, uncertsin—ynie diferent fram the steady columns rising from Mageik and Martin; for they were not only m= constant anil variable im volume, ‘but equallycuncertain tn position, appearing how at one paint gad now at another, (see page 45)~ STARTING TOR (THEPIIST AScEN'E On firiding the Sky ‘clear and bright the morning aftersour arrival, July 10, we decided to See how the river was and to Teconnciter ths volcano with a view 10 picking our yxith for the climb awhen the proper time should com When we sia we had little idea of making the ascent, expecting to content ourselves with reconsoitering the lower slopes. Rat as we went on we became more and more anxious to try the climb. So, leaving the mut-How at_about Sea feet, we'started tip the long ridge whict rons ont parallel with the canyon, "This was easy going, with a gentle ascent mp to 200m fect, when we strddenty came into sight of the upper valley of Katmai River, THE THEMENDOUS FLOOD EXPLAGNED We fourid that the canyon was only as long as Mount Katmai itself, while far- ther on, the valley trned to the cast and expanled again inte a flat, in which we discovered three large Jnkes, blue as the sky, in. strotig and grateful contrast to the gray land, Bat what especially: surprised us. was suddenly to discover the origin of the flood whieh lind so sorely ptzeled aur party the year before (see jages 20 anil 38). A stream Hlowing betveen Ratna Volcano and its neighbor had. piled up an immense dam across its valley, Be hind this dam a vast fike hn! cea. lated nntil the pressure of the impounded ‘water berame irresistible. when the dam burst and the torrent, a Jolnstown flood, rushed seaward, forttmately: with ont Linear toll Turnitig from the lakes h the hope OF TEN THOUSAND SMOK: 1 that we might be able te retiim and ex- lore then, we roped ourselves together and decided to fave a try at the slopes above, We were on dangerous groin from the outset, ‘The surface was covered hy tmany feet of ash overlying show, which, melting put from beneath, made the sur- fave slump away and crack open in all direetions, while at intervals boiling tar rents issued from the envernons depths, No experience with snaw bridges could give any precedent for judging the strength of such ash bridges and we had no means ef knowing what to expect. Tt was with fear and trembling that 1 ventured out xeross the first and, as it proveil, the worst of these bridges, ft was only a few feet wide, with perpen- Hlicular eilges 30 fect high, while fram beneath came a roaring tarrent, which divided just below, part going dawn be- hind the arréte we had-come tip and part tumbling directly down the face of the mousitain, CLUEING Ti MeD-iLAsremtp sty ‘The slopes were all plastered with md of vatied colors—gray, yellow, chocolate, red, black, and. tiue—the results of the last spastis of the great cruption, At the lower levels the mud was dry and bord, making easy going: but as we ascended, it soot) became slippery, and a little higher soft aid sticky, Most of thie way it was about ankle deep, bt in-spots we went in nearly to cnr knees: and at nes it reyttired nll or strength to tricate ourselves (see page 33), Un- fileasant anil tvborions as walking thronggeli deep md is.under any circumstances, we found traveling up the slope very hand work indeed. Above 3,000 fest the way was mest? through soft snow, with only occasions! md pitehes, and the slope became steeper as we autvanced, As we reached the higher levels the scenery Tecame superb. We cetild sec Kodiak Istind across the strnit over the tops of the nearer mountains, whieh pre sented a magnificent mass at sharp peaks aind intervening snaw-fields. But fifer than these was the canyon ef Kati River, whieh lay strethed below Flanked by the multicolored) mud—SrucK th THE Aun ON THE WAY UF Yo THE Whetomrapty bp HF. Grane The slopes of the volcanc are covered with saft, sticky mud and shih (yew text, page st) flows, with the river hidden within the nwer gorge, this resembled greatly the id Cunyon of the Coloraiio; and in deed, except for its shortness, rivaled the latter in its proportions, for it is about 4.007 feet deep, nf which abom 1,300 feet is the inner gorge, cut through heau- tifnl delicate grecn rocks, not to be matched in the Grand Canyon (see pages ni) 58). AML FROME THE CRATER ORSCYRES ‘Tie SDMAUT Tong before we reached the brint the hard work had begun to tell on us and we were beenming tired, espceially Church and Folsom, who were carrying packs. Mr. Church in particular deseeves great credit for Iuguing the big camera, with its tripod weighing 20 ponmnds, to th summit. He told me afterward that he could never have done it except for two facts—that he was hitched toa rope and comld not get away and the fear that if we turned back todicy we would have it all lo over again Lomorrow it began to cloud up, we were afraid we would not he alile to see anything i we did reach the rim, All the other sum nits as’ far as we could see were clear, but Katmai became densely cavered with black, heavy clouds which permitted only occasional glimpses of the toy rther= more, we were on the lec side of the erater instead of to windward, az we should have been. We knew these clouds mnust he dite, in part at least, to the acti ity of the volcano, because of the strong sulphurons odor which filled the air, tut could not tell haw much was te be atteih- uted to this case and how much was simply due to the greater altinade of the volcan, As we came closer we could see that the clouds «were in rapid motion, comin straight up out of the crater. What if we should reach the rim only to poke nit meses jiito a steam jet through avhich we could see nothing! Neverth were unwilling (0 give up now without at least a try, and so we presse THY, co THR 00 feet, awe Teached the wall was standing uearly pendicular and great masses af and omiud were cracked off from edges, ready to fall in; so that 1 didnot dare to look over the erg even thougl anchored hy the roy » tintil L could find aTREANE WITCH CUT le ascent did we en ninter belrock. On the opposite he crater * part of ridnig. stécan ed, there © t and we ¢ Suri ain and we waited. w aad We were struit vere powerless 1: form: any real estimate af the:size of this stapenden: It was clear, however, that it is. Ht was of dmmen: i ef a alits debeh, all of rev within the rith, whieh feet vlhree ‘ A VITREGLIC LAK long. As t id Mle Lf of the. fe 0 l i c vonderfal bine it the came level ta the slope tay the eres ped re- ld come, ‘Thus estimated, mi h cone near the middie, apparently about 1.500. frre larger end was a circle of lighter- © subsequently had to enlarge rel water which sas in continyal we almost at a uid closer in again and we wai escaping ebullities Around the marg um of al every ereviee with a rour locomotive when the safety from anid) a thandero at steam, Were we to be chea: ures after all 1 little and f, were clond | On two. bright uiphur, imade aur exposures while m Two ang! there Lf planned to take bearings © snowv-ficld arements which wonld permit y © determin: we we were vo ndicular s ly ofWe had the rim The them. acher! tt of us f dl. E think, we had come found ‘how retiirn, bor we lore p.m. Next day Twas up ly opporttnitie: to get good. picti of the vol early " Thigsky.wtcel cept for a delicate cirrus: clouds the the enst were long combed ont horizontal rottnytar wwly Trt WONDEMFUE, SEN HRY Om Ly eaxvon t view from the syountai of the second Katmai Valley, with its lakes, anil expecially the dam, which had canned the great food, made gs anxiows to periet e the canyon and examine te upper va Bat we found it ite beyond the topped on the brink which we named w from this The magnificence ai the point was simply eyo: Ttis he Grand € If put together nh OW x MUD-COVERED even Tee tof the erater rh (seu text, ided, bythe ma te the volcano sciiie, covered ‘om the yoleane Canyon. But the npper slopes, w han fis acoupied Ty snow-fields id glaciers, remind one of the Canad ieuker of such place he “Valley of the Ten Peaks.” Down the sides jn me of which are of great li tr numerats water= antty ¢ Prospect Point if one y streams drop 4 n it the inner canyon clear to the exch nm (see page ‘0 more, val hundred, fTHE VALL OF TEN [chose a path over the lava pliteaw from vear the base of the mud-llow. Front the valley the grout did not Seen especially favorable, and we, were by no means sure of reaching the rim when we started; tnt [was ansions to examine the ‘Tfident at close range, and especially to-see what might be beljail she iathnms contectitng it with Katru, because of our susp im that direction. We got a fine view af Trident, whose tec proved to be a simple fissure, out of which steamy was. contintlly issaing in a comparatively simall volume (see page 65), Hut we were disappointed in our hopes of seeing anything aver. the divide Jetween Trident and Katmai, Althongh we ‘traversed the whioh: length of the nearly level névé-at an alti- ude of about 4.200 feet, we eotth 5 indications of voleanic activity beyond, There were several jagged minor sum: mits, but no large mountain and no clouds: so that we quite dismissed the idea of a volcano in that quarter. Flow greatly in error I was it this con clusion Twas to fim only the mest day. For a good share of the way beyond 2eo0 feet our path this time lay across the Tines of dramare, which, had gushed the level surface af the osh with nm .umer- able gullies anywhere from two to ten feet deep: On our first ascent we had followed straight wp a single ridge, and so avoided the necessity of crossing the gnl- lies. This time we soon found that con- timed jumping across ar scrambling up and down the sides of these ravines very fatiguing anil were thorotuhly tired of the job lomg before we got through thei. ‘or the List 1,360 feet our way led across much -crevassed suowliells and hciers, which, while easier going for the most part, kept us in constant fear of cave-itis it account of the mceriain couiitions introduced by the ast-fall. places we traversed as nasty a.serics of deracs sis one wotlk eare to: find. We found that the glacial seracs ex- tended clear up to the very rim of the crater, above whase depths the loose Blocks Hing with a precarions hold, We did not dare to approwch the ede aver stich ground and had to make our THOUSAND SMOKES a way arourid, descending somewliat anitil we finally reached the tim at the lowest notel; wlan altitude of 5.200 feet, beside: the rock which lireaks the regularity of the are at that point (see page 36). ‘This from the valley appears as a small toath-like projection. Near.at hand itis, seen to be n great neck .of juinted cul- umnar basalt two or three hundred f high, which evidently owes its preserva~ thon to its superior hardness, which n= bled it to resist the farce cf the explo- ion that blew away the softer rock all ound it. Tis position and structirre in te that it was formerly a vent filled with liquid lava which, cooling in place, formed the massive heck that temains, INABILITY TO JUDGE TREIGIIT OR MSTANCE Feit our pacition direetly under it, its perpendicular cliffs, though insignificant fram the valley, appearerd immessurably hight Freqbently in tlds Jand of stu- pendavi dimensions we had occasion to realize hots: litthe conception we coukd really form of the truc sizes qf the fea- tures arom Ws When one stands directly feneath a. cliff or 31 its rink and Iooks up or down, goo’ feet appears us an immeasurably great height, ‘Ten times assuch appears no greater unless there are trees, horses, or same such familiar objects beyond, by which one can form an independent judg- iment of their distance. Ina desert eaun- try without such objects; we were fre quently unable to, form any estimate at all of the size of the variows features which met our view. We liad an amusing instance of this when, sending a man to climb the great esh shde to serve as a seale foram picture, T found-that he was harily visible to the naked eye and uiterly lost in the picture {see page 42). We nearly always found that our estimates were too small rather than too large, and throughout the pres- ent paper T have endevored to, scale down my statements of size, so that any errors should bé in the direction of mit imixing: rather than of exaggerating the things we have to Teport. Standing on the edge of the erater, we reconized otic total inability to form any judgment of its depth hy the ordinary