DRAPING

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This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping

for Apparel Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000

Measure Muslin Length

On the form, measure the
length of the muslin from the
shoulder over the bust to the
waist along the selvedge edge.

Add Extra Length

Add about 4" to this
measurement.

Clip through the

selvedge

Tear the muslin

Measure the Width

On the form, measure the
front width across the bust
arc along the cross grain
(top edge of the muslin)
from the center front to the
side seam. Add four
inches, clip, and tear as
before.

Draw a grainline on the front

piece 1" from the longest torn
edge.

Mark the Bust Level

Measure and mark 4" down from the top.
Put a second mark at the bust level.
Measure the form for this distance.

Draw the Cross grain

Draw a line with the L ruler from the bust point.

Continue muslin preparation

Measure, tear and prepare a piece of muslin for the back.
Measure and mark 2" down from the top edge. Make a
second mark and draw a cross grain line at the shoulder
level.

Fold the front muslin piece along

the grainline you drew and
crease with your finger.

Start the Drape

Pin fold to the form, with
the cross grain line at the
bustline. Place your top pin
pointing down, and your
bottom pin pointing up so
the muslin does not slip.
Place crossed pins at the
bustline level.

Pin the Bust Point

Smooth the muslin keeping the cross
grain parallel to the floor and place
crossed pins at the bust point.
Pin the Shoulder
Smooth muslin
upwards from the
breast to the
middle of the
shoulder and pin.

Clip the Shoulder

Smooth the muslin up to the
shoulder/neck intersection. Slash the
shoulder seam about 1" away from
the neck.

Trim the Neck

Trim muslin at the neck down to about 1"
from the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and clip
the neckline by placing the point of the
scissors on the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Then fold the fabric above the seam
into the scissors.

Clip the Neck

Then close the scissors. Be careful not
to let the muslin under the point of the
scissors slip.

Continue clipping the neckline at

about 3/4" intervals. Pin the
shoulder at the neck.

Pin the Shoulder Point

Smooth the muslin along the shoulder
from the neck, and pin at the shoulder
point.

Starting at the shoulder tip, smooth

the muslin along the armhole roll line
towards the midshoulder pinhead.
The fabric should bridge the hollow
area between the shoulder and bust.
Trim the
waist

Clip the Waist

Smooth and slash the muslin along the waist
toward the Princess line using the same
clipping technique as at the neck.

Pin the waist at

the princess line

Front
Markings

Mark the waist at this

location for the dart

Mark the
following:
bust point
3/8" below
CF neck
midneckline
curve
shoulder/ne
ck
intersection
shoulder tip
midarmhole
mark
CF at
bottom of
waist tape

Pin Ease tuck at Arm eye

Lift the muslin at the arm eye.
Direct a 1/4" ease tuck toward
the bust and pin. Cut away
excess fabric at the arm eye.

Smooth the muslin around the

armhole and pin just past the
side seam

Pin the Bottom of the Side seam

Place a pin at the bottom of the
armhole plate. Smooth the muslin
down along the side seam to the
bottom of the waist tape and pin.

Pencil rub the side seam

Mark the top of the side seam

Remove pin from the ease
tuck at the arm eye.

At the bottom of the armhole plate,

draw a short curved line. Draw a line
down to the pinhead marking the
armhole depth. Draw a second
horizontal line here.

Measure the Side seam Ease

Measure 1/2" for side seam ease.

Draw the side

seam with a
ruler,
connecting
to the bottom
of the side
seam at the
waist. There
is no ease at
the waist.

Mark the bottom of the side

seam.

Slash along the waist from the

sides seam to the princess line

Pin a 1/4" ease tuck at waist

Mark the Waist dart

Fold the dart excess towards the
center-front. If this excess overlaps the
centerline, trim it to within 1" of the dart
legs. Mark at the princess line.

Fold the Waist dart

Bring the first dart mark you
made to this mark. Crease-fold
the excess fabric of the dart
inward.

. Pin the Waist dart

Place the pins perpendicular to the
fold line of the dart legs.

Release and Pin the Seams

Do not pin through to the form

Fold and crease the shoulder seam and

side seam under following the guide
marks. Peel back these seams and pin.

. Pin the Center-Back

Fold and crease the muslin for the
back drape and pin to the center
back seam of the form at the neck,
shoulder level, and waist.

Pin the Cross grain at the Arm

eye
Smooth the muslin along the cross
grain from the center of the back to the
pinhead of the mid-armhole (keeping
the cross grain line parallel to the form)
and pin.

Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and trim
and slash along the neckline.

Pin the shoulder at the neck

Smooth the muslin along the

shoulder towards the Princess
line, and mark the intersection
of the princess seam and the
shoulder seam

Mark the dart intake 1/2" toward the

shoulder

Draw a 3" line along the princess

seam to direct the angle of the dart

Slash to the shoulder seam about

1" from the neck

Fold the Shoulder Dart

Fold the muslin along the 3" line
down to meet the dart intake mark,
folding the excess toward the
centerline.

Pin the layers of the dart together,

placing pins perpendicular to fold, but
do not pin the form

Smooth the muslin to the

shoulder tip, then mark and pin
the shoulder point

Test the Smoothness

Run your finger along the roll line of
the armhole to the cross grain pin to
test the smoothness. If loose or tight,
release the pin to adjust.

Mark the arm eye

Trim and clip the waistline to the

princess seam. Mark for dart.

Mark 1.5" (1" for juniors) from

the Princess line for the dart
intake

Fold the waist dart from the cross mark to

the dart intake mark with excess towards
the centerline. Place the pins perpendicular
to the fold line, but do not pin the form.

Smooth, trim, and clip the muslin

along the waist.

Pin a 1/4" ease tuck. Continue to

smooth and slash the muslin along
the waist. Pin at the side seam.

Pencil rub, measure and draw

side seam as for front, but with
3/4" ease

Mark back waist

The Completed Muslin

Release holding pins. Carefully match
the guide marks of the front shoulder
seam and side seam over the back
seams. Pin the seams perpendicular
to the fold lines, but do not pin to the
form.

Remove holding pins and check the

arm eye, center front, and center back
for any pulling or twisting.

Make Corrections
Mark any corrections needed with a red pen.

What will straighten the center front

seam?
Raise the shoulder - VR movie file
Lower the shoulder - VR movie file
Leave the neck (circle) pinned. This acts as
a pivot point.
Re-mark the center front at neck and waist.

What will balance the arm eye?

Lower the front and raise the back - VR
movie file
Lower the back and raise the front - VR
movie file

Re-mark the side seam at the arm eye and

at the waist

This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping for Apparel
Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000