Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Textile Laboratory Engeneering LGTex, University of Monastir, 5078 Ksar Hellal, Tunisia
College of Engineering, Industrial Engineering Department, Taiba University, Saudi Arabia
a r t i c l e
i n f o
Article history:
Received 29 December 2015
Received in revised form 5 March 2016
Accepted 4 April 2016
Keywords:
Blend yarn
Cotton wastes
DENIM waste
DOE
Mechanical recycling
a b s t r a c t
In the spinning industry, waste yarns are generally forsaken or sale at low prices. The main purpose of
this study is to give an added value to this waste and produce a new low cost yarn based on recycled yarn
bers. The rst part of this study investigated the effect of the raw material and the recycling process
taking into account the cut length (L) and the passage number (N) on the nal quality of reclaimed bers.
The effect of different factors on the count of Neps (Neps), mean length (L), short ber content (SFC), Upper
Quartile Length (UQL), and weight yield (R) were examined by using design of experimental method. In the
second part of this work, the highest quality bers (Neps = 260Cnt/g, SFC = 26%, UQL = 23.9 mm, L = 18 mm
and R = 61.20%) were selected for this project. They were spun with a ratio cotton/recycling cotton 50/50
into a three account (Ne 10, Ne 15 and Ne 20). Comparing with the 100% cotton yarn, the blended yarn
has similar physical and mechanical properties and it has a lower cost yarn since we can increase the
total value of the yarn more than 33.5%.
2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
1. Introduction
In recent years, the global annual textile ber production
exceeded 82 million tons, of which around 40% consisted of cellulosic materials (Andreas, 2012). Cotton with production of more
than 27 million tons per year stands for about 1/3 of the market
(Andreas, 2012). Rapid development and higher production capacity of cotton textile industries resulted in higher output of waste
cotton bers. Hence, in the context of economic issues and environmental protection, there is growing interest in developing recycling
processes to produce valuable products from waste cotton bers,
(Meyabadi and Dadashian, 2012). The greater part of cotton wastes
is abandoned in all countries over the world (Hani and Orhan,
2015).
Among the major sources of textile waste, is the municipal waste
(Anne et al., 2006). The concept and practice of recycling bers has
been a well-established part of the textile industry since the rst
industrial revolution (Richard, 2000). Recycling of textile waste is
a mindset and a culture that needs to be shared between industry
and the public.
Corresponding author.
E-mail address: wanassi b@yahoo.fr (B. Wanassi).
URL: http://null (B. Wanassi).
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2016.04.020
0926-6690/ 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
28
Table 1
Mechanical properties of waste yarn.
Property
Value
Unit
yarns count
the breaking force
elongation at break
82
13.34
5.96
Tex
N
%
Table 2
Levels factors.
Factors
Level 1 Level 2
10 cm
2
Level 3 Level 4
Table 3
Design matrix and experiment design.
Coded
variable
Real
variables
Respense
X1
X2
X1 X2
Neps[Cnt/g]
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
5
10
5
10
5
10
5
10
302
274
467
285
260
409
345
319
293
629
401
264
35.6
27.7
48.1
31.4
26.7
46.2
42.7
45.0
26.4
48.6
45.2
25.8
1
2
3
1
2
3
1
2
3
1
2
3
1
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
3
4
4
4
1pass
1pass
1pass
2pass
2pass
2pass
3pass
3pass
3pass
4pass
4pass
4pass
18.5
23.3
19.9
17.3
23.9
20.6
18.9
18.9
23.8
21.7
18.6
24.5
12.9
17.6
14.2
13.5
18.0
15.6
14.3
14.1
17.9
15.2
13.1
18.1
42.60
22.10
87.60
45.30
61.20
90.10
71.76
80.00
48.30
85.70
88.60
79.10
29
Value setting
Unit
Rotor speed
Twist factor
Rotor type
Opening roller speed
52.5
160
T40
8800
Tr/min
Tr/min
Fig. 3. (a) State of the material after recycling. (b) Fibres Q1, (c) cutting yarns Q2.
MQ 1
100
MQ 1 + MQ 2
(1)
MQ1 is the weight of bers and MQ2 is the weight of cutting yarns.
In this study we will look to characterize the ber quality Q1.
Table 5
Unevenness and imperfections of yarns.
Yarn count Blend
10
15
20
U(%)
cotton
8.2
Cotton-recycling cotton 9.7
12.33
968
0
0
306
2
30
2
9
cotton
9.4
Cotton-recycling cotton 10.13
12.91
1283
0
0
463
4
40
4
2
cotton
12.3
Cotton-recycling cotton 13.86
18.01
3681
0
17
2357
4
749
12
536
30
31
Fig. 6. SEM image of recycling bers, which shows thee break ber zone.
Table 6
Manufacturing cost factors for the chosen countries.
Waste
Labour
Power
Auxiliary material
Capital
Raw material
Total yarn costs (USD per Kg of yarn)
L (w) and UQL(w) (Fig. 5). Indeed, cutting the yarn increases the
probability of cutting the bers, before introducing them into the
recycling machine. So it was evident that the recycling of waste
yarns cut minimizes the average ber length and the UQL(w).
In the other hand, every passage of waste yarns in the recycling
machine favor the appearance of new relatively long bers. This is
why the L (w) and the UQL(w) increases with passage number (N).
Recycling of waste yarns gives a mixing between bers and
yarns cut. After each additional passage of material (N), it supports
the transformation of yarns cut (recovering from the passage N-1)
of reclaimed bers. For this reason, the Yield of bers R% increases
with number of passes (N). R% is also inuenced by the length of
cut waste yarn. Indeed, the minimum yield R% is obtained where
waste yarns are not cut.
The experimental conditions of recycling waste yarns was a
compromise between ber yield and ber length which identied
by the SFC, L [mm] and UQL. Considering these parameters, the
optimum recycling condition was: cut length L = 10 cm and N = 4.
Egypt
USA
Italy
Turkey
SITEX
11%
2%
3%
3%
14%
67%
4.013
8%
16%
5%
5%
19%
47%
3.279
6%
19%
15%
3%
17%
39%
4.593
8%
6%
12%
4%
17%
52%
3.225
4%
14%
3%
3%
9%
67%
cohesion that is why the tensile strength of blended yarn was than
100% cotton yarn.
Corresponding to Fig. 8, it can be seen that the elongation at
break of two yarns decrease when the count increase. Which conrm the results published by USTER report (Richard, 2009). For each
count of yarns, the elongation of blended yarn was higher than 100%
cotton yarn. The elongation for Ne10, Ne15 and Ne20 blended yarns,
were 6.4%, 9% and 21.4%, respectively, higher than for 100% cotton
yarn.
3.2.2. Yarn unevenness and irregularity
It can be seen in Table 5, that when the blended yarn become
ner, the irregularity (CVm , Thin, Thick and Neps) of bended yarn
increases. Unevenness of bended yarn was higher than 100% cotton yarn in each count (Ne10, Ne15 and Ne20). This difference was
due to variation in mass per unit length along the yarn. In blended
yarn the probability to obtain a same number of bers per section
of yarn is lower than 100% cotton yarn because the higher rate of
short bers in blended yarn which prove theoretical results found
by (Xueqin et al., 2015) and optical results found by (Musa and Ayse,
2006).
32
Acknowledgements
The authors acknowledge the International Company of Textile
SITEX Tunisia, the technical advice and support received from Mr.
Hichem RZIGUA and Mr Moez KECHIDA at the same company.
References
Andreas, W.E., 2012. The Fiber Year. 2012, 12. World Survey on Textiles
Nonwovens, pp. 130139.
Anne, W.C., Garth, Ward D., Paul, P.S., Michael, C., Simon, G., 2006. Life cycle
assessment for reuse/recycling of donated waste textiles compared to use of
virgin material:An UK energy saving perspective. Resour. Conserv. Recycl. 46,
94103.
Backe, E., 1986. Effect of short ber content in cotton on plant performance and
quality. Text. Res. J. 56, 112115.
Charles, K.B., Frederick, M.S., 1993. A rapid, direct measurement of short ber
content. Text. Res. J. 63 (3), 171176.
Gourlot, J.P., Gawrysiak, G., Bachelier, B., 2006. Classement de la bre de coton,
Guide technique no. 4. 1, 5154.
Halimi, M.T., BenHassen, M., Azzouz, B., Sakli, F., 2007. Effect of cotton waste and
spinning parameters on rotor yarn quality. TJTI 98, 437442.
Hamburger, W.J., 1949. The industrial application of the stress-strain relationship.
J. Text. Inst. 40, 700720.
Hani, B., Orhan, A., 2015. Engineering properties of insulation material made with
cotton waste and y ash. J. Mater. Cycles Waste Manage. 17, 157162.
Jeihanipour, A., Taherzadeh, M., 2009. Ethanol production from cotton-based
waste textiles. Bioresour. Technol. 100, 10071010.
Jeihanipour, A., Karimi, K., Niklasson, C., Taherzadeh, M.J., 2010. A novel process for
ethanol or biogas production from cellulose in blended-bers waste textiles.
Waste Manage. 35, 25042509.
Kaplan, E., 2004. The Cost Factor in Textile Industry and General Utilization of
Energy Cost, MsC Thesis. Cukurova University, Institute of Natural and Applied
Science, Textile Engineering Department, Adana.
Kuo, C.H., Li, n.P.J, Le, e.C.K., 2010. Enzymatic saccharication of dissolution
pretreated waste cellulosic fabrics for bacterial cellulose production by
Gluconacetobacter xylinus. J. Chem. Technol. Biotechnol. 85, 13461352.
Mangialardi, G.J., 1986. Evaluation of neps formation in the cotton gin. Text. Res. J.
55, 756761.
Meyabadi, T.F., Dadashian, F., 2012. Optimization of enzymatic hydrolysis of waste
cotton bers for nanoparticles production using response surface
methodology. Fibers Polym. 13 (3), 313321.
Musa, K., Ayse, O., 2006. Relationships between yarn Diameter/Diameter variation
and strength. Fibres Text. East. Eur. 14, 8488.
Richard, H., 2000. Recycling and Recovery Strategies. Woodhead Publishing
Limited, pp. 13.
Richard, F., 2009. Application report: physical properties of spun yarn. Uster 1,
139.
Usarat, R., Duangduen, A., Duangdao, A., 2012. Cellulose esters from waste cotton
fabric via conventional and microwave heating. Carbohydr. Polym. 87, 8494.
Wang, Y., 2010. Fiber and textile waste utilization. Waste Biomass Valorization 1,
135143.
Xueqin, K., Yuanbo, H., Chongwen, Y., 2015. The theoretical yarn unevenness of
cotton considering the joint inuence of ber length distribution and ber
neness. Text. Res. J. 0 (00), 17.
Zeidman, M., Sawhney, P.S., 2002. Inuence of bre length distribution on strength
efciency of bres in yarn. Text. Res. J. 72, 216220.
Zeidman, M.I., Batra, S.K., Sasser, P.E., 1991. Determining short ber content in
cotton. Textile Res. J. 61 (1), 2130.