L.O.S.T.

Arrow Archery
Bow Tuning/Set up – Mathews

This tuning guide is just that –a “guide” these are methods

that have been developed by myself, and combined with
methods by other knowledgeable people

I use these steps in my archery shop and have great success

with them, every shooter is different and methods may vary,
use what is best for you.

Above all enjoy our great adventure we call archery and

Bowhunting.

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1) Loosen limb set bolts on each side of bow on all bows that
utilize limb pocket locking bolts-Tighten limb bolts to max-all
Mathews spec’s are with bow to max.

2) Place bow in bow press bow shelf/rest towards yourself.

3) Recording all measurements in the next steps will assist

in understanding movements in different stage’s of tuning to
bow spec’s.

4) Measure ATA [Axle To Axle], using tape measure or metal

yard stick/straight edge, measure ATA from OC [ON Center
of axle to Center of axle].

5) Measure BH [Brace Height]-BH is from string to center of

Berger hole or threaded hole on shelf that rest bolts to, most
stock bow grips will have the same measurement from the
deepest point on grip.

6) Record CT [Cam Timing]-Older Mathews have two

alignment holes in cam-take two 3/32 pins or finish nails
with points grinded, edges bevelled and smoothened with
fine sandpaper, and place into alignment holes.
 Click Image to view full size or this bar to open in a new window.

Newer Mathews have Alignment windows...Cam Alignment

Tuning with Mathews bows with Alignment or timing
window…tune so string is slightly below center with
cable...as when string/cable settles it will fall center…an
untuned bow or under twisted string will show string HIGH
in window.

Click Image to view full size or this bar to open in a new window.
7) Level bow by Placing small level on string of bow only
sitting in press, then place level on pins to check CT is also
level,
-Or as I do and prefer as I feel it is more accurate -place yard
stick/straight edge on pins running full length below string,
CT will be evident if out.

8) Check IWL [Idler Wheel Lean]-place Straight edge/yard

stick flush on left side of IW [Idler Wheel]-run Straight edge
along string to nocking point, edge of straight edge should
be approx 1/8 from string shelf/rest side.

*NOTE for Reezen and Monster do not use small holes use
the large visual alignment hole thru cam on cable.

9) With bow in press [approved for newer parallel limbs]

with shelf/rest towards you, relax strings and cables, Note
Most bows require limbs to be let down several turns for
pressing.[ Example- Drenalin = 5 turns]
*Exceptions...The XT and Prestige have course threads so
only 2 1/2 turns, DXT, Dren etc have fine threads and about
2# per turn, so approx. five turns.

You can back your bow down ten pounds from its advertised
limb weight. 70# limbs down to 60#, even if it came at 74#.
There is enough bolt to go the ten pounds.

The Ignition can go eight full turns, or about 15# down

10) I press some bow’s with limbs maxed for faster and
easier spec tuning, However it is recommended to turn out
bow limb bolts on most models for pressing.

-all tuning adjustments for other than rest will most likely
require twisting of strings or bus cable and cable yoke or Y
harness clockwise or counter clockwise.

STEP ONE

11) Start with ATA-press and remove Y harness loops from

IW, while loops are removed I remove QCC’s - [Quick Clip
Connectors],

-A light sanding with fine sandpaper[400 grit] on bow side of

QCC’s -wipe clean and spray dry powered graphite on axle
and QCC’s-this eliminates future creaks and draw clicking
noises.

*Note remember to align slot of QCC's towards cable or yoke

when re-assembling

12) Remove all twists from loop yokes and twist counter
clockwise if facing bow, for Mathews stock strings I twist 12
complete turns on the bows right harness yoke and 9 turns
on the bows left side, this will vary from bow to bow, do not
over twist.
For Worlds Best Strings-- if standing behind Idler wheel-I
twist left side yoke 5.5 clockwise and right side 2.5 twists
clockwise to start, if standing on bows shelf side –that’s 5.5
on bows right side and 2.5 twists on Bows left side--as
Worlds Best strings cables have loops served as all strings
should.

*With new Reezen stock strings are 2-3 twists on bows left
and 7 on bows right…
With Worlds Best start with 4 Left and 8 right
*Update on the Z7 yokes...since they have loop ends served..
they have less twists...on average we found they were aprox
7 twists to bows right and 4 twists to bows left ...for a
starting point..again string should run straight with idler
string track at full draw for correct idler lean..

If yokes twist on themselves, one can remove one yoke and

untwist from other yoke, if more twists are required in cable
untwist a couple extra twists in yoke.

With unserved loops, [all loops] twist loops in themselves to

make stronger loops.

13) Reattach harness loops, then remove cable from cam end
and twist to achieve bows ATA specs-example-33” OC for SB
[Switchback] and Drenalin and 31” OC for SBXT -.

14) Twisting cable clockwise results in reduced ATA, [also at

same time increases BH and CT towards string]- if ATA is
over spec’s –2 twists for every 1/16 over.

15) Counter clockwise Twists result in Increased ATA- [also

decreases BH and brings CT towards riser.

16) Once ATA is accomplished –record # of twists + what

direction as string may need twists to fine tune CT and/or
work with ATA.
STEP TWO

17) Once ATA is at spec-CT alignment is adjusted via twisting

both ends of string equal on string- [which also balances
string to help stop peep travel].

18) I use plastic clothespins to hold string on wheels and

cams when bow is relaxed, which holds them in place as I
work on it.

19) If inner timing hole on cam is down towards the riser,

twist the cable, if inner hole is towards the string twist the
string, Twisting string clockwise moves alignment line
toward riser- [also reduces ATA and increases BH].

20) Twisting string counter clockwise moves alignment line

toward string –[also increases ATA and decreases BH].

21) If bow is extremely out of spec’s twist 2 each string end

for 1 twist of cable to start.

STEP THREE

22) Idler Wheel Lean- most Mathews with “string

settlement” will tend to lean to the bows left side- therefore
add twist to left harness loop to adjust IWL, -[right loop for
right lean].

23) Using straight edge/yard stick measurement, twist until

edge of straight edge placed on Idler wheel, at nock point is
approx. 1/8’’ outside the sting facing you- [Bows left side of
string].

24) NOTE*once string is at full draw string and idler wheel

will line up in a straight line- with bow relaxed the idler
wheel will appear to have a lean due to the cable guard pull.

25) When bow is full drawn, string should run in a straight

line with idler wheel, if straight edge was placed on idler
wheel.

26) Additional twists may have to be made on cables and

both ends of string to achieve all steps to spec’s-remember
every twist effects all other specs, also twists to cable and
string will effect draw weight and draw length.

27) Once factory specs are achieved –set center of rest

13/16 [11/16 for some Drop Away Rests] from riser at
Berger hole, with arrow on string and rest, arrow should line
up center on Berger hole.

28) Reset nocking point approx ¼ above 90 degrees from

bottom of rest and readjust kisser and/or peep.

This method once done a couple of times is quick and seems

simple once understood, the bow results are a quite, smooth
drawing bow that “punches tacks”—paper tune or “Walk
Back tune” for final tuning and applying broad heads.

Peep Sights

Always press a bow when installing and working with

peeps...we get more broken strings for peeps than any other
reason

If your peep rotates from left to right, press the bow and
twist the string a ½ twist in the same direction. Now shoot
the bow several times to settle the peep. If it still does not
roll into the proper position, repeat the process. Always
shoot the bow several times to settle the peep before
checking for position.

Or if that doesn’t work

Relax the string again. Look carefully at the direction of the

string twist. For example, if the normal twist of the string is
clockwise, and your peep must move to the left a ¼ of a
turn, take two strands from the top left side and flip them to
the bottom right side. Then take two strands (make
sure they aren’t the same two strands) from the bottom right
side and flip them to the top left side. This will pull the peep
over to the direction you want.

If you want to move it the other way, just do the same steps
in the opposite direction. Note: more strands will mean more
movement.

Shoot the bow to re-settle the string and repeat as

necessary…

This for me is the easiest and most stable

Click Image to view full size or this bar to open in a new window.

*Thank you to who it was that did this chart up for and sent
it to me

-May all you arrow fly straight and true.

************************************************
**********

[size=18]* NOTES

*-Removing a bow grip may appear to add up to ½ -¾ to your draw

length or anchor points.

*-To adjust Cam alignment slightly, twist cable-ATA wont move

measurably.

*-If inner hole is tipped towards riser twist up cable and if inner
hole it tipped towards bow string put equal twists into the string on
each side of the cam......NOTE: limb bolts must be max down to
check and or set this

*-Twisting cable clockwise will increase poundage.

*-String and cable stretch or “creep” will decrease poundage and

increase draw length.

*- Apply Super Glue on all serving ends on a bow right out of the
box-also apply glue to the couple of inches of serving near the “Roll
over” of the cam-This will forever prevent serving separation.

*Do NOT use bow wax near servings that contact cam/wheels. May
cause build up, abrasion, and cause string to ride off cam/wheel.

*-Dry graphite powder should be used in place of all oils, greases,

etc on any moving parts that need lubricating on a bow- string wax,
light vegetable or scent free synthetic oils can be used on bolt faces
etc -that show rust.

*-Dry graphite can be bought at locksmith supplies or some

hardware stores in a rubber squeeze contamination with a needle
nose spout.

*-Backing poundage off- takes pressure off of the string in turn

causing it to simulate a longer string length which increases the
draw length ... one of the reasons a lot of people suggest shooting a
bow maxed down in poundage.

*-There are couple of important reasons for putting twists in a

string /cable.
1. - Twists stop the string from opening up and thrashing around
during the power stroke.
2. – twists help out balance of individual strands and the string
itself.

3. - "On a standard compound bow, initially 10 – 20 twists is a

suggested range.
If you use a material that does not creep, no further twisting will be
required. [no such material ...Neil]
Obviously on single cam strings, more twists may be required. The
recommended range is 20 – 40. "

As most know-twisting a string/cable allows fine adjustment of

length, Bringing bows to manufacturers Specs.

At one time manufacturers recommend around one twist every four

to six inches - approx only 15 twists in an average compound string,
but strings were much shorter than.

Lately many well known string manufactures and top archers tell us
to use far more twists than this - usually around 1 -1.5 and max at
2.5 twists-per-inch.

This is to increase speed and help consistency and bow tuning.

Also a string with hardly any twists is slow and NOISY..as there is a
flatter area and resistance.

*Caution strings/cables can be over twisted putting overdue stress

on them.

*When feeding new string/cables on bow –feed string onto black

roller on roller cable guard, cable feeds onto shinny aluminium color
roller.

* Limb Bolts….XT and Prestige have course threads so only 2 1/2

turns Max, DXT and Dren have fine threads and about 2 Lbs per
turn, so aprox. Five turns down max.
You can back your bow down ten pounds from its advertised limb
weight. EX…70# limbs down to 60#, even if it came at 74#. There
is enough bolt to go the ten pounds.

The Ignition on the other hand can go eight full turns, or about 15#
down.

*When paper tuning- A left tear and no matter what you do it won't
go away and the arrow is spined correctly, you can set the center
shot about 11/16"-13/16 from riser to center of the arrow shaft
and/OR put a few twist into the right side of the yoke

* When paper tuning [Mathews/solo cam Bows]-if results are a

continual HIGH tear…no matter where you move/adjust nocking
point...that is a result of a weak spine/arrow..Use stiffer
spine/arrow.

*Don’t paper test from a bow with a new string and a tight
nock...shoot and enjoy a bow and wear in the string before re-
tuning bow to spec and paper tuning-A tight nock on a new string
will give false or erratic readings.

*Your rest location should dictate arrow length.

The most forgiving setup is the rest contact point at the berger hole
(which is 1 3/4" less than the bow's DL). The arrows then should be
cut 3/4-1" infront of rest contact, putting them about 1" less than
the DL.

* When tuning broadheads, and they are hitting to the right of field
points for a right handed shooter, that indicates a weak spine
reaction …Try turning the DW down and see if the broadheads move
closer toward the field points.

*Excessive bow torque related to having too much bow hand on the
grip can cause erratic tears.

*A test for under spined arrows is simple..Temporarily lower limb

bolts several turns and try paper tune again.

*Twisting Strings-When the bow is in front of you in a press or

maintenance center ...the common tech method is cam to your right
and Idler wheel to your left..looking at string/cable from behind the
cam..Bottom of bow..rest to left cable guard to right...string/cable
are twisted clockwise...standard procedure that keep servings tight.

*When checking for Idler lean-- draw as one would shoot.... arrow
nocked with release,- anchored...have assistance watch or use
straight edge behind you...wheel straight line with string at full
draw.

*For an arrow tuning guide use..

http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
http://www.papertuning.com/
When using charts for arrows…
IBO speed of less then 260 is considered a Soft Cam
IBO speed between 260-290 is considered Medium Cam
IBO speed of 290-320 is considered Hard Cam
IBO speed greater than 320 is considered X-Hard Cam

Update on new Reezen,.. all above remains the same as others…

with the following change if custom strings are involved…the String
Grub which weighs 33.0 gr can be removed by sliding off stock
string…use a small long cotter pin put on top yoke loop slide Grub
over pin and onto new string…place ¾ from suppressor.

* Installing Cat whisker type silencers on string may/will prevent

string from jumping suppressors, new design suppressors eliminate
this problem.

NOTE* There has been a limb twist issue with DXT and Reezens…if
the bow all of a sudden doesn’t paper tune and/or is erratic have
your dealer check for limb twist…or as some call it CAM lean…

Place an arrow along flat surface of CAM …the arrow should run
straight with string ..If it does not.. the cam may have bad bearings
or it is Limb Twist.

Monster update…Tune as solo cam..only as a double solo.. Its

exactally like spec tuning a solo cam but on each end..ha ha, the
AVS system takes care of itself…keep ATA in spec as normal, but
you have two cables to work with do them equal.
*Cam Alignment…see below.

Tune bow as you would solo cam, paper, walk back etc
*Cam Alignment Tuning with Mathews bows with Alignment or
timing window…tune so string is slightly below center with cable...as
when string/cable settles it will fall center…an untuned bow or under
twisted string will show string HIGH in window.

May all your arrows fly straight and true.

The Creep Tune Procedure

by George Ryals

The Creep Tune procedure is as follows:

1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don't have put a micrometer on it; just get as close as you
can)

2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.

3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top edge of a
target face.

4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot arrow #1 at the tape.

On the next shot, creep forward to the front of the valley and shoot arrow #2 at the tape. You may need to
re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.

5. If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same horizontal plane.
(Level with the tape or on the tape)

If the "creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM cam.
If the "creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.

Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments at a time. A little twist goes a long way. You can fine-tune
your timing by repeating the test at forty yards. If you make an adjustment at this distance do not turn your
cable more that a half a turn at a time. Too much adjustment at this distance can send an arrow over the
target butt or in the dirt. When you have completed the test, your bow will be in perfect time, and given
that your other accessories are adjusted properly, your bow is as accurate as it can possibly be.