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Digital Age: How To Photograph Your Models in The
Digital Age: How To Photograph Your Models in The
J
ust a couple of years ago, the most- models. So we thought it was time to Instead they tend to feature menus of
common question we received about revisit the subject of model photos in icons and scene modes that may accom-
photography here at FSM was, “Do hopes you’ll give your digital camera a plish the same thing – if you’re lucky.
you guys accept digital images?” Funny workout and send the results to us for Imagine one of the shiny little cameras
how things change. Now the question is, Reader Gallery and in images to illustrate about the size of a deck of cards, and you
“Do you guys still take film?” your construction stories. know the ones I’m talking about. I won’t
The digital imaging revolution has say a point-and-shoot camera won’t work
changed the landscape of photography, What camera should I buy? for model photography, but without set-
and FSM has changed with it. To be clear, We wouldn’t presume to tell you what tings for “shutter-preferred” and “aperture-
we accept (and now prefer) digital images, camera to buy, but we think you’ll get the preferred,” or “manual mode,” your model
but we are still quite happy to receive your best, most-predictable results with model photography will be hit or miss. Also, look
prints and other film-based photos. photography for FSM if you use a camera for the ability to turn off the flash or
One thing is as true in this brave new having some manual control of shutter greatly reduce its output.
digital world as it was in the days of film: speed, lens opening (sometimes called Next comes a class of cameras we’ll call
There’s much more to getting good pho- aperture), and flash. Just about everything the all-in-one. Not quite as miniaturized
tos of your models than simply running else about cameras is a matter of features, as point-and-shoot cameras, they’re still
out to buy the latest camera. You may be convenience, quality, and price that only more compact than full-size conventional
prepared to face a learning curve for that you can decide. However, knowing your cameras. All-in-ones do not take inter-
new digital camera, but you also need to camera has control of the three items just changeable lenses, but they do have built-
learn a whole new set of tools. What do mentioned gives you the tools to avoid in zoom lenses covering from moderately
you do with the images once you capture some of the common causes for model wide angle to mid-length telephoto that
them? What format should they be in? photos to be rejected at FSM. A great will probably handle most of the situa-
What about editing, storing, displaying, Web site for comparing features and for tions most of us ever care about. They also
and printing? All these demand new ways reviews of the current crop of cameras is: have most of the features and manual con-
of working. http://www.dpreview.com/. trols and settings found on the more-
The good news is that after a hectic You can divide the digital camera mar- expensive digital single-lens reflex (DSLR)
few years in camera development, it seems ket into three broad categories, 1. First cameras. With the near-pro features and
the market has settled down to the point come the simplest of point-and-shoot big megapixel counts at up to hundreds of
where you can get a feature-filled camera models. Oriented to ease of operation, dollars less than their DSLR big brothers,
at a reasonable price that’s more than many of these little wonders may not have the all-in-one class offers a lot of value.
capable of taking great pictures of your much in the way of manual controls. Finally, DSLRs may be familiar to you
For most us, what’s out there is already struction processes and parts that we run
Resolving resolution more than good enough. Save your money, small in the magazine. However, they
buy more models; we’ll never use those won’t give us a file big enough for the
Think of resolution as film grain. extra megapixels to their fullest extent. larger overall, or “beauty,” shots to show
Remember when you used to buy Ask yourself, how many 16" x 20" prints off your model.
ASA or ISO 25 film, the really fine have you ordered lately?
stuff for your highest-quality prints? Controlling manual controls
The smaller the number, the smaller What’s in a pixel? Consumer cameras do one thing
(and thus more-densely packed) were Let’s go back to the six-megapixel camera extremely well. They take pictures of your
the photosensitive silver grains in the for a second because the math is easier for friends and family at distances of three to
film, and the finer the detail possible me. The word pixel stands for picture ele- 12 feet with no thinking whatsoever.
in a print. The same is true with pix- ment, a point where light is measured. A They’re optimized for that kind of use
els. The more densely packed the pix- six-megapixel camera has a sensor about because that’s what most people do with
els (six megapixels vs. three megapixels the size of a postage stamp measuring their cameras. They do it effortlessly by
for example), the greater the resolu- something like 3,000 pixels in one dimen- incorporating a little flash unit to cover
tion possible. sion and 2,000 in the other. (3,000 x 2,000 that shooting distance in all kinds of
Purists among you may insist that = 6,000,000 pixels or six megapixels). lighting situations.
resolution is actually a matter of the Say you want to print to a decent ink- However, the same little in-camera
resolving power of camera optics, not jet printer or, better yet, send an image of flash that comes on automatically when
the number of pixels. However, a dis- that great model you just finished to FSM you need it will create harsh shadows
tracting checkerboard pattern of pixels for consideration in Reader Gallery. A when you put it two feet in front of your
will show up in enlargements sooner typical print-resolution figure given for model. You’ve seen those shots: too bright
from cameras having fewer megapix- publishing or for a high-quality ink jet in front, too dark in back, with hard edges
els than from cameras having more. print is 300 dpi (dots per inch). A pixel is on the shadows that don’t look at all natu-
I’m amazed when I hear someone a point or one of those dots in “dpi,” so ral. They remind me of that old picture of
who has just purchased a new mon- that 3,000 x 2,000-pixel sensor will give myself in the dime-store photo booth –
ster-megapixel camera ask if he can you a print roughly 10" x 7" (3,000 pixels bug eyed, washed-out face, and a back-
send a file with a fraction of that or dots/300 dpi = 10"; 2,000/300 = 6.67"). ground full of spooky shadows. The best
information. As with almost every- Keep in mind that the vast majority of thing to do with this little demon is turn it
thing in printing production, more consumer-camera output ends up on a off and learn to provide the kind of light
information is better, so use your cam- computer screen at 72 dpi or on a 4" x 6" you need. More on that later.
era’s highest resolution to give us the print, so you can see that a camera in the With the flash off, your automatic-
most pixel information. five-, six-, or seven-megapixel range will everything camera is going to scream for
How do you know? Some cameras more than handle the most-common more light. It will make the lens opening
give a choice of pixel dimensions. usage as well as take your images to 8" x as large as possible and slow down the
Some offer a good-better-best choice. 10" and beyond. Also, keep in mind that a shutter speed. A larger aperture (a bigger
Some give the total pixel count. good photo-print service can skillfully hole through the lens) obviously lets in
Others have an alphabet soup of set- interpolate your data to make the occa- more light. A slower shutter allows more
tings like SHQ and VHQ. Some call sional larger print with little loss in quality. time for the exposure and thus more light.
it “finest” or “highest quality.” Your At FSM, we like to see images from But both of these have consequences. A
manual should give the one represent- cameras with at least four megapixels. slow shutter speed will blur action and
ing the highest number of pixels. Actually some older three-meg cameras exaggerate camera shake, and a wide lens
will take decent close-up shots of con- Continues on page 48
Seamless backdrop
We’ve probably had to reject more photos for use in FSM as a What’s needed is a seamless backdrop (also called a sweep)
result of bad backgrounds than for any other photographic reason. that runs under the model on the table top and gently curves
We’ve seen your water heaters, basement walls, knotty-pine-lined up behind it to be taped or pinned to a wall.
rec rooms, towels, sheets, backyard landscaping – you name it. It’s You can get an idea of it from the FSM setup, below. We
a shame that sharp, well-exposed pictures of good models must be travel with a roll of paper so we can change it if it gets marred,
returned because of these distracting backgrounds. so we use a bracket of 1/2" PVC pipe stuck on top of a couple of
Many times, modelers interpret our advice to put up a paper quick-grip clamps. The roll of paper rests on the bracket, and
backdrop to mean covering a table with a clean sheet of paper we pull a length of it down and across the table to be secured
or a piece of cardboard or cloth. And that’s a start, but it usu- at the table’s front edge with clamps. You can find this kind of
ally still leaves a horizontal line or seam running behind the paper at artist’s-supply stores, or you can order a roll (about
subject at the far edge of the table. $40) from BD Papers (http://bdcompany.com/paper.htm).
FSM’s photo-backdrop setup: A bracket of PVC tubing and “quick-clamps” accepts a roll of paper. You can do the same thing by taping up paper.
5 6
More info at
finescale.com
See two other inexpensive lighting
techniques on the FSM Web site.
Put hardware-store halogen lights
to work in your model room. Got
some old flash units? We show you
how to set them up for model photog-
raphy. This entire article, plus these
Having a second light softens shadows. Here, Look around the house for diffusion material. At two additional techniques can be
they’re a little more harsh than in photo 10, far left is a plastic food container. Foam-board or found at www.finescale.com.
right, but not bad. foil-covered reflectors help fill in the shadows.
Continued from page 46 Let’s go to work display with really cheap 8.5" bell reflec-
opening will create shallow depth of field. So you have a camera. You know to turn tors on a clamp. With two of them and a
(With shallow depth of field, a Corsair’s off your flash and set the camera for maxi- couple of daylight-balanced bulbs, I was
propeller and cockpit may be in focus and mum depth of field. You know to slow out of there for less than $15.
sharp but its tail planes will be fuzzy or down your shutter to compensate for the Why two lights? With one light, we
what we call “soft”.) small aperture. You understand that a slow might as well stay with the dreaded on-
So we want you to turn off the flash shutter speed (anything below 1/125 of a camera flash. A second light can “knock
and fix the lens opening at its largest second for my shaky hands) may mean down” harsh shadows and create a more-
f-stop number for the best depth of field. you’ll need a tripod. And you have color- 3D or modeling effect. So, I clamped my
To compensate for having less light com- balanced the camera to your light source low-budget light setup to a couple of din-
ing through the smaller lens opening, you (see sidebar at right) – now what? From ing room chairs, 2, and I was in business.
must slow down the shutter to allow more here on out, it’s all about light. (Marriage tip: replace borrowed furniture
exposure time. And if you must slow down before you-know-who gets home!)
the shutter, you’ll probably need to put The vinegar jug experiment The two-light setup gives us a chance
your camera on a tripod to avoid camera The goal of this story is to suggest some to talk about the concept of lighting ratios,
shake. (Many point-and-shoot cameras inexpensive light setups you could keep the difference in reflectance between the
won’t take shutter cable releases or may on-hand to shoot a finished model, or bet- brightest area and the darkest area of the
require an expensive remote shutter- ter yet, a setup that you could leave in subject. Studio photographers often work
release button. One great trick for a steady place while you build a model for an FSM with at least two lights. One, the key or
shutter release at slow speeds is to use the story. When you come to a critical step main, is stronger than a second fill light.
self-timer, which most cameras have.) you want to show us, you could easily take Figuring out the right ratio of strength
the assembly or part to your photo setup between the two is beyond my meager
Can’t I just select a higher ISO? and capture it. The great thing about digi- math skills, but we can use the idea of a
There’s really no such thing as a free lunch tal is you know right away if you got the lighting differential without getting so
with these cameras, and jacking up the shot. Years ago, we had to “bracket” expo- technical about it.
light sensitivity with a higher ISO setting sures (by taking multiple, different expo- Again, the great thing about digital is
will increase noise (patches of weird color sures) to make sure we had a good image you see your results immediately. Try
and specs) in your image. Some cameras somewhere in the range. Even then, we something as simple as putting a 100-watt
are better than others at this, but generally still might miss the shot for some reason bulb in one lamp and 45-watt bulb in
speaking, you can shoot at ISO 100 or 200 we didn’t even anticipate, and by the time another, keeping the lights equidistant
with little visible difference at small we got the film or prints, it could be too from the subject, 3. You’ve just accom-
enlargements. You’re taking your chances late to reshoot. plished a lighting differential.
at ISO 400, and even greater ISO numbers I stopped by the hardware store one Even easier, move one light source far-
should be reserved for rescuing images you evening after work, and as luck would ther from the subject until you see some
just wouldn’t get any other way. have it, my home center was featuring a modeling effect, 4 and 5. You don’t have
Color balance
You used to choose between daylight or indoor films, and maybe custom. If you have the ability to set custom balances,
you had to make sure your indoor film was appropriate for you’ll do yourself a big favor to learn that part of your camera
normal lights (incandescent) or fluorescent lights or else you manual, as it’s your way to compensate for mixed light sources
had to compensate with lens filters. Now that’s all controlled in in a given scene.
the camera. You just need to remember to tell the camera Otherwise, just select the setting on the camera for the
about the light source, usually called setting the color balance strongest light source you see in your scene. In a pinch, auto
or setting the white point. will usually guess pretty well, and if you shoot raw files, we can
Common choices are for auto (the camera guesses), incan- always choose another setting after the fact (another great
descent (bulbs), fluorescent, sunlight, shade, overcast, flash, and advantage of “shooting raw”).
The FSM setup you’re likely to see at shows. The large black unit on the This time the softbox is supplemented at left by a small on-flash Apollo
center stand is called a softbox, merely a reflective tent with one of our mini-softbox.
flash units shooting through its front diffusion panel. At left, a flash
bounces light into a small umbrella. The third light on the table fires into
the face of the softbox to add light.