Name of the mill : Shabab Fabrics Limited

Owner of the mill : Khandokar Abdul Muktadir

Type of the mill : Terry fabric industry
Year of the establishment : 2004

Location and site plan of the mill:

Bashil, Hazirbazar, Bhaluka, Mymensingh

Figure 1: site pan of Shabab Fabrics Ltd

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Lay out of the mill

Figure 2: over view of the mill

A= Preparatory section
B1 = weaving section (DOBBY)
B2= weaving section (jacquard)
C = Dyeing section
D = Office + swing + dormitory
E = Boiler and Generator room
F = Main entrance and exit
G = vehicle way

Project cost: 1500 million taka only.

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History of the project development:
2004: Starts (buy land, start to build)

2008: machinery comes from turkey

2009: governing body elected

2010: start production with 1st buyer Vally Forge

Exporting country:

• USA

• France

• Turkey

• UK

• Canada

Total production: 20 ton per day

Total turnover: 33$ million /year

Vision: To offer high quality and eco friendly products at most completive price through
integration of creativity & expertise itself as well as for the society.

Mission: To obtain customer satisfaction by ensuring highest quality of products in a

competitive price.

Man power:

Total – 250

In factory – 230

Head office – 20

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Organizational structures:
Managing
Director

Controller Chief Head of HR Sr.General Manager Co

of audit finance & coordinator
&accounts officer compliance

Hea Head
Head Head of
Head Head d of of
of supply General Head
of of pro budge Head Head of
cost chain Manager of Head
accou comm cur t of Marketin
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ent ption

Head
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Head Head of
Head of inventio Head Head Head of Head
of of maint
export n of of dyeing of
export quality enanc
document manage admi weavin &finishi stitchi
logisti assura e
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Terry Towel:

A terry towel is described as a textile product which is made with loop pile on one or both sides
generally covering the entire surface or forming strips, checks, or other patterns (with end hems
or fringes and side hems or selvages)

History of Terry Weaving:

The name “terry” comes from the French word “tirer” which means to pull out, referring to the
pile loops which were pulled out by hand to make absorbent traditional Turkish toweling. Latin
“vellus”, meaning hair, has the derivation “velour”, which is the toweling with cut loops. In
research conducted on terry weaving by the Manchester Textile Institute, it was concluded that
original terry weaving was likely the result of defective weaving. The research indicates that this
development occurred in Turkey, probably in Bursa City, one of the major traditional textile
centers in Turkey. Terry weaving construction is considered a later development in the evolution
of woven fabrics. Terry toweling is still known as "Turk Fabric", "Turkish Toweling" or
"Turkish Terry"

Parts of a Conventional Terry:

A woven towel consists of five parts. These are the pile area, fringes, beginning and end part,
selvedge, border. Every towel does not have to contain all of these parts. The pile area is
considered the toweling part of the towel. Fringes are tied or an untied tasseled part of ground
warps and pile warps which are left unwoven at the beginning and the end edges of the towel.
The beginning and end sections are the tightly woven areas of a towel which come before or
after the pile fabric part and prevent this pile area from unraveling. They are woven without pile
loops, in a flat weave construction. The selvedge contains fewer number of warp end s than the
pile area, for example 90 comparing to 4000 total warp ends, woven without pile as a flat weave

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and has the purpose to reinforce the towel sides.

Classification of Terry Towels:

The classification of towels can be made according to weight, production, pile presence on fabric
surfaces, pile formation, pile structure, and finishing. These classifications are shown in Table

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In velour towels pile loops on one side of the fabric are sheared in order to give a smooth cut
velvet appearance. Uncut loops of the fabric are sheared in order to give a give the best
absorbency, whereas velour gives a luxurious velvety hand. A towel with appliqués is
embellished with additional pieces of decorative fabric in a motif which is stitched onto the
towel Two-pick terry towels which were woven for bathrobe end-use have lost their importance
today due to instability of the loops. Five or more pick terry towels are rarely produced because
they need to be beaten for each pile twice. They need to be beaten for each pile twice. and four-
pick terry towels. As one sided pile toweling has low water absorbing capacity, it is only used for
special purposes such as a limited number of bathrobes. Furthermore weaving one sided pile
terry with few or no defects is difficult. In two sided pile terry both sides are covered with pile,
whereas all the irregularities are visible in one sided terry fabric as one side is bare without pile.
Towels are divided into groups according to end use and size as bath towels, hand towels, face
towels, fingertip towels, kitchen towels and washcloths

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Product mix and description of various products

Beach Towel
Generally, a beach towel is a little larger than a bath towel. They are soft, fluffy and thick
because their main purpose is to provide comfort while one relaxes by the pool or on the beach.

Types:

Besides the normal ones, multipurpose and convertible beach towels

are also available. These towels can be converted into a back pack,
tote or sleeping bag, deck chair cover and even into an auto seat
cover. These towels have storage in the form of pockets and closures.
They are very useful during windy condition.

Styles and patterns

Beach towels are usually in bright colors. They have interesting patterns printed or woven into
them, most of them being cool, fun and youthful. They also come in bright and colorful stripes.
Kids' beach towels come with printed or woven pictures of their favorite Disney characters and
super heroes.

Materials used
Beach towels are made of the following materials:

• Cotton
• Terrycloth
• Tencel

Uses
Beach towels are used for different purposes like:

• To dry oneself after swimming.

• For wiping sand from the body or objects.
• Worn for privacy while changing clothes in public places.
• As a cushy spot while sunbathing and help the user relax.

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Bath Towel
The main purpose of a bath towel is for drying one's body after a bath or shower. They are
generally woven with a soft and absorbent loop or pile and are thus used to wick the water away
from the body.

Types

In accordance to their specific use and size Bath towels are

divided into:

• Wash Cloth Towel

• Hand Towel
• Standard Bath Towels
• Bath Sheets

Washcloth Towel
Washcloth are the smallest form of bath towels. They are also called facecloth or washrag.
Washcloth are cheap and sold mostly in bulk.

Types
Because washcloths are used for very personal purposes, there are disposable washcloths meant
for perineal and personal cleaning. They are ideal for guests and for the hospitality industry.
There are also scented wash cloths which contains aqueous solution to moisturize the skin while
cleaning. They are used mostly in hospitals and nursing homes. The disposable washcloths can
be heated once or twice to a select temperature.

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Styles and patterns
Washcloths are mostly square in shape, though they can also be manufactured according to
specification. Washcloths come in different colors, mostly in plain and checked pattern. There
are knitted forms of washcloths for a more invigorating bath. Washcloths are available in bulk or
in set with other matching towels.

Materials used
A washcloth is made of highly absorbent material. The material can range from medium weight
to heavy weight. The texture of a washcloth should be able to stimulate and invigorate the body
and at the same time exfoliate dead skin cells. The materials mostly used to make washcloth are:

• Cotton
• Terry Cotton
• Linen

Uses
Washcloths are used for:

• Lathering
• Scrubbing
• Washing the face and body

Hand Towel
• Hand towels are not just a larger substitute for washcloths. They should be coordinated
with the other bath towels. The general size of a hand towel is 30x60 cm. They are
usually positioned near the sink, hung on a hanger or loop.

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Materials used
Hand towels can be made of different materials. The main criteria are they should be soft and
absorbent. Some of the most common materials used for making hand towels are:

• Cotton
• Tencel
• Silk

Styles and patterns

Hand towel has the maximum designs and patterns, they are unlimited. They can have
embroidery work on them. There are knitted hand towels. There are hand towels with crochet,
patchwork and prints. Hand towels are available in many colors. Stripe and embellished hand
towels are also available. Hand towels can be personalized with monograms or names
embroidered on them.

Uses
The many uses of a hand towel are:

• A hand towel is used for drying hands after washing.

• Besides the general use for drying one's hands, hand towels are also used for promotional
purposes
• Hand towels customized with the company/organization logo are used as a means of
advertisement
• Hand towels are very popular during corporate outings and events like golf. They come
with a grommet or hook to be fixed to the golf bag

Standard Bath Towels

Standard bath towels are the ones that most people use on a daily basis. Their main function is to
provide maximum absorption to the user.

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 Fig: Standard Bath towel

Types
Besides the normal bath towels, there are bath towels for infants, toddlers and kids. The infant's
and toddler's bath towel can have hoods, which keep them warm after a bath. Kid's bath towels
also come in the poncho style, it keeps them warm besides the pool or on the beach and also
makes changing very convenient.

Materials used
While making a bath towel, importance is given to the absorbing capacity and the ability to dry
quickly. Some of the most common fabrics used for making a regular bath towel are:

• Terry Cloth
• Terry Weave Microfiber
• Cotton
• Microfiber

Styles and patterns

There is a vast array of styles and patterns of bath towel in the standard size. They can come in
the form of solid colors. White color is the most popular because of its fresh and crisp looks.
Some people preferred to have their initial/s monogrammed on the towel. Neat embroideries at
the corner of the towel are also very popular. For infants, toddlers and kids, the patterns are
interesting and come in bright colors. Some manufacturers offer custom digitized and
monogrammed towels according to specifications.

Shape and size

A standard bath towel is rectangular in shape and its popular size is 30"×60" (75×150 cm). But
people of a larger frame find the size of a normal bath towel not comfortable. So, they opt for a
larger variety known as a bath sheet.

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Bath sheets
Bath sheets are the largest of all the bath towels. Many people prefer bath sheets to the standard
bath towels because of the more area for absorption.

Fig: Bath sheet

Materials used
Absorbency and comfort are the main purposes for the use of bath sheets, so high quality fabrics
are the first choice for the manufacturers. Utmost care is taken to the texture and finish of the
towel. The most common types of fabrics used for making a regular bath sheets are:

• Terry Cloth
• Terry Weave Microfiber
• Cotton
• Microfiber
• Fleece

Size
They can be six feet or more in length. The general size of a bath sheet is bath sheet is around
60" x 32". For larger people, the normal bath towel is not satisfactory. So, they still preferred
extra large bath sheet which is much larger than the normal bath towel.

Styles and patterns

White is the most popular color for bath sheet. They also come in a variety of colors with
beautiful patterns but plain, single color bath sheets are preferred. Bath sheets can be customized

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according to the specification of the customers. Monogram, embroidery and applique are also
used to add variety to the bath sheets.

Uses
• To dry oneself after a bath, shower or a swim.
• They can also be used as a makeshift sarong.
• They can be wrap around to provide warmth.
• They can be used to provide a cushy spot for sunbathing.

Tea towel
A tea towel is a cloth which is intended for the specific use of drying dishes and cutlery after
they have been washed. In addition, clean tea towels may be spread over a tea tray before tea
things are put onto it, or used to cover warm scones or a tea pot to prevent heat loss. Many
kitchen supply stores sell tea towels. They are also readily obtainable in England and Ireland,
two nations well known for their tea. Some people confuse the tea towel with the dish rag.

Materials used
Linen is the traditional fiber for tea towels, since it can be used to dry delicate plates
and silverware without the risk of scratching. Towels made from cotton are not uncommon
Absorbent cotton or linen can be cut down to size and hemmed to prevent stray threads.

Size
They are made in a towel size.

Styles and patterns

In some cases, a tea towel is woven in a pattern, while in other instances, it may be decorated
with paint or embroidery.

Uses
• They can be used to cover hot foods
• dry dishes
• Perform other kitchen tasks.

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Flow chart diagram for producing a woven terry towel in Shabab Fabrics Ltd.

Sample analysis:

After getting the order sample R&D team analyze the

sample and find out the all parameter (EPI, PPI, total
no of ends, total no of picks, weaving structure,
weaving technique, yarn color, yarn count, types of
yarn) of that sample

Making design on computer:

Shabab Fabrics Ltd. has three special cad software for

developing the design of the fabrics.

a. Textronics Design Dobby.

b. Textronics Design Jacquard.
c. Staubli pattern editor

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Heald shaft capacity dobby loom’s of Shabab Fabrics Ltd. Is fourteen. So if the samples
interlacement variation is up to 14 then that the design will develop in Design dobby software, if
it is more than 14 then it will go for the design jacquard software.

Steps of design dooby software:

Steps 1:Open the dooby design software and also open a new file according to the parameter of
the sample.

Sample 2: Then after completing the design it’s save as *.db1 file.

Step 3: now for transferring design on the loom, the *.db1 file should open by the staubli pattern
editor software.

Figure : interface of staubli pattern editor

Step 4: now the file can be export on pocket

terminal device by staubli pattern editor software.
Then via the pocket terminal design can be
transfer o the loom. Now the loom is ready for
weaving. But the previous that the drawing of
warp thread should be ready according to the
drafting plan.

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Figure: design transferring diagram

Steps of making design on jacquard software:

Step 1: scan the sample by scanner. take the picture/text/logo/art affect from the sample and save
as jpeg/bmp file.

Step 2: open the design jacquard software and create a new file as for the sample parameter.

Step 3: the open the jpeg/bmp file there are various tools for editing artwork.

Step 4: then insert the weave on the artwork via weave mapper. Then export the file as a *.bmp
file.

Step 5: now open the *.bmp file through the weave maker software. If there is any last editing it
can be done in here.

Step 6: now by the weave maker software design can be export on floppy disk. And by the
floppy disk design can be
transfer on loom control box.

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PREPARATORY SECTION
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19
Layout preparatory section:

Figure: layout preparatory section

Machines of preparatory section

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 Sl. no Functional name Description Quantity
01 Sectional warping Beninger SF3800 supertronic 01
machine Model: 1988
02 Direct warping Hacoba USK-s 01
Machine Model :1996
03 Direct warping m/c Sucker Muller 01
600 creel capacity
220 cm working width
04 Sectional warping m/c Sucker Muller 01
624 creel capacity
320cm Working width
Model: USK 1250pc
Creel model: G 2-N-FB
05 Direct warping M/C Sucker Muller 01
600 creel Capacity
220 cm working width
Model-NZD-sensowarp 1000
Creel model G2-N-T
06 Sizing m/c Sucker Muller 02
16 beam creel
14 drying Cylinder
1 size box with 2 dip & 2 nip
360cm width with pleava
Moisture controller

Warping:

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There are two types of warping machine in Shabab Fabrics ltd.
a. Direct warping
b. Sectional warping
For successful warping operation it should meet the requirements

i. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant all the time of
withdrawal from the supply packages

ii. Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of the yearn

iii. A predetermined length of warp should be wound

iv. The production rate should be as high as possible but tension on the yarn should be low
as possible.

Main parts of warping machine

a. Creel section-where all the cones or yarn packages are housed or accommodated

b. Headstock section- where the warper’s beam is mounted and rotated to wind the yarn.

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Creel section:

Creel – is a wildly used term in textile. It is collection of machine parts found in various types of
machines and used to hold a package in such a way so that it will facilitate next operation very
smoothly.

Various parts of creel

i. Stop motion- To stop the m/c when any breaks

ii. Indicator- To indicate when and where end break
iii. Tensioner- To apply in order to maintain uniform
iv. Yarn guide- to pass the yarn in the required way
v. Package base- to house the package
vi. Yarn clearer- To remove yarn fault like slubs, neps etc

Head stock section: where the warper’s beam is mounted and rotated to wind a fraction of warp
yarn on it.

The headstock section is consisting of the flowing section:

I. Methods of beam driving: the beam may drive directly from a motor or indirectly by
means of the drum.
II. The drum: the drum is for three reasons. (a) to drive the beam. (b) to maintain a constant
pressure against to presses against the beam. (c) at the time of break due to end
breakage.
III. Length measuring motion: An accurate is the precondition of good processing and reduce
wastage.
IV. Efficient break system to stop the machine instantly:
V. Adjustable V-reed or warper’s reed: this used to control the warp in the beam
VI. Yarn speed controlling device
VII. Pneumatic or hydraulic pressure unit
VIII. Stop motion.

Sizing:

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 Figure: different parts of sizing machine

An important stage in the preparation of warp is the sizing process, in which the yarn passes
through a specially mixed past that has film- forming properties on drying. In pure sizing the
objective is to improve the weavability of the warp i.e., to reduce the warp breaks during
weaving.

Size ingredients:

i. Adhesive: Starch, Maize, Tapioca starch , modified starch, PVA, Acrylic Sizes
ii. Softeners and lubricants: mutton tallow, Vegetable oil and fat, petroleum and mineral
Oils, Waxes.
iii. Deliquescent material: Magnesium chloride and zinc chlorides, Glycerin, organic
Polyalcohol, propylene glycols.
iv. Antiseptics: Zinc chloride, phenol, Chlorinated phenols, salicylic acid
v. Weighting materials : china clay, French Chalk, Epsom salt
vi. Others like – Antifoaming agent, anti static agent, ph stabilizer, emulsifier.

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Sizing production chart
SIZING Date:5.12.10
Required
SIZE BUYER Count Beam Type Beam Loom Plan Completed Beam Remarks
50x7
6 RHL 12/2 Pile 4 2 2
50x8
0 RHL 12/2 Pile 2 2 2
Manpower=16
Consumption of sizing chemicals
Month of November
Opening Received from Closing
Chemicals Name balance store (kg) Total (kg) Used (kg) Balance
STARCH 50 kg 650 kg 700 kg 650 kg 40 kg
TRIZOL 5 kg 120 kg 125 kg 105 kg 20 kg
PURESOFT 30 kg 50 kg 80 kg 60 kg 20 kg
CMC 22 kg 22 kg 00 kg 22 kg
DALDA 14 kg 14 kg 00 kg 14 kg
Mgcl2 2 kg 2 kg 2 kg 00 kg

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 WEAVING SECTION

Jacquard
floor

Layout of the weaving section:

Fabric
EEE Toile
inspecti

DOBBY
floor

Fabr
ic
insp
Page ecti
on
26
Figure: layout of the weaving floor

Machines of weaving section:

Sl no Functional name Description Quantity

01 Dobby Loom Sulzer Ruti Gripper terry loom 20

Sulzer Ruti G6100 B2700
Model :F6 JQG 1996
02 Jacquard loom Sulzer textile TPS 600 Gripper 18
Terry Loom

03 Jacquard loom Sulzer Ruti Gripper terry loom 20

Sulzer Ruti G6100 B2700
Model :F6 JQG 1996

Weaving floor Picture:

Fig: Weaving floor (Dobby loom section)

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Fig: Front side Fig: Back side Fig: Pile height controlling device

Fig :( Weaving floor) Jacquard loom section Fig: Jacquard loom

Weaving of terry towel:

Mechanism of Pile Formation

The basic mechanism of terry towel lies in the formation of the pile formation. The pile is always
warp yarn and distributed evenly between the ground warp yarns. There can be pile either in one
side or in both sides.
The G 6100 rapier weaving machine is fitted with a slay stroke reduction gear for pile warp loop
formation. This gear is activated mechanically by cam packet via levers at which distance is set.
For two or three picks (according to type of terry cloth) the slay performs a stroke which is
reduced by the loose of distance, only travelling its full distance for the beat-up pick. These
results in the beat-up of a whole pick group at the fell of the cloth and the lightly tensioned pile

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warp threads stand up to from loops. This provides a fast yet very soft control of the let-off,
resulting constant warp tension and an absolutely uniform pile height.
Terry consists of a ground fabric into which looped warp threads are tied up. Whilst the warp for
the ground fabric is taut. The pile warp for loop formation is only lightly tensioned. A 2/1 rib
weave is normally used for ground warp for 3-pick interlacing and a 2/2 pick interlacing. The
reed beat up which is controllable via sley stroke reduction renders is possible to bring 3 on 3
picks up to certain distance from the cloth fell. Together with 3rd and 4th pick which is beaten up
at the cloth fell. According to the weave pattern the slack pile warp threads stand up on the upper
or lower surface of the fabric.

With 3 pick terry cloth the pile warp thread floats

over two picks and is then it must be ensured that the
pile warp thread is interlaced on the 2nd pick of the
pick group.
The change of the shed for the ground fabric takes
after two and third pick.

With 4 pick terry cloth the pile warp threat float over
3 picks is then interlaced with every fourth pick with
4- pick interlacing too, the pile warp thread is
interlaced with the second pick of the loose pick group the shed change for the ground fabric
normally takes after the 2nd and 4th pick group.

With particularly sometimes fabrics with difficult

patterns it is sometimes difficult to achieve a good
appearance of the terry cloth. In this case the shed
change for the ground fabric should take place
after the first and 3rd pick group.

Warp and cloth run diagram:

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 a. Pile warp:
Pile warp beam – deflecting roller –
oscillating tube-deflecting roller- pile
warp stop motion
b. Ground warp
Ground warp beam- back rest roller-
ground warp stop motion
c. Pile and ground warp
Heald shaft – reed – temple bar- spreading
roller- take up roller – cloth beam
d. 75 mm dia. deflecting roller
e. 25 mm dia. Oscillating roller
f. 75 mm dia. deflecting roller
positioned before or the ground warp stop motion.

Beat-up:

The loops in terry fabrics are formed with a special reed motion and warp let- off system. These
motions vary according to pick number per loop. In 3-pick terry weaving, two picks are inserted
at a variable distance the loose pick distance- from the cloth fell. The loose pick distance is
varied according to the desired loop height. When the third pick is beaten up, the reed pushes the
pick group which includes the three picks, on the tightly tensioned ground warps, towards the
fell and the loose pile warps are woven into the pick group are uprighted and form loops.

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Depending on the weave, loops are thus formed on one or both sides of the fabric.

In the above figure 3-pick terry fabric formation is seen. The first weft pick is the loop fixing
pick, the second pick is binding pick, and the third one is the pile pick or the fast pick. The third
pick is inserted into a completely reversed shed, as the pile and ground warp ends which are up,
go down, and those which are down go upward, essentially locking the first in place. Thus, this
motion prevents the drawing of the loop by the following sheds

Complementary Motions

Let-off

It was mentioned earlier that there are two warp systems including ground warp and pile warp,
and thus two warp beams are let off simultaneously in a terry weaving machine. The ground
warp ends move forward slowly and under high tension as the ground warp beam turns slowly.
At the same time, the pile warp ends move forward quickly and loosely as the pile warp beam
turns faster than the ground warp beam. Ground and pile warp beams are propelled by two
different independent motors. Rpm’s (revolution per minute) of the pile warp beams is
proportional to the required pile height. The higher speed delivers more yarn to increase the pile
height. During let- off, pile tension is controlled continuously. This decreases yarn breakages,
and avoids out-of tolerance loop heights. In Figure the Terry Motion Control System® of
Tsudakoma is shown. Here, pile tension is determined by pile tension roll which is propelled by
a motor guided by electronic pile tension control system allows, so that it can hold the maximum
length of pile warp. Keeping the pile beam’s diameter large avoids changing the beam frequently

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Pile Tension Control System

Diagram of Pile Warp Tension during weaving pile, plain and border parts

The width of the pile beam is between 76 – 144 inches (190 - 360 cm) and the diameter of its
flange can be up to 50 inches (125 cm), while the flange diameter of the ground beam is up to 40
inches (100 cm). The Pile beam can hold more than 130 cu ft of yarn, with a gross weight
exceeding that of many automobiles

To prevent starting marks or pulling back of the pile loops, the pile warp tension can be reduced
during machine standstill. An automatic increase in tension can be programmed for weaving
borders to achieve more compact weave construction in order to ensure a rigid border and/or to
achieve nice visual effects via jacquard or dobby designs on the border. The way the back rest
roller system is controlled depends on the weave. During insertion of the loose picks and during
border or plain weaving the warp tension between the open and closed shed is compensated for

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by negative control. A warp tensioner with torsion bar is used for the ground warp, and a special
tension compensating roll is used for the pile warp

Take-up:
The pick density is automatically controlled by synchronizing the take-up motor rotation
with the loom speed. The take-up motor rotates the cloth pulling axle. The cloth pulling axle is
covered with needles which pricks the terry fabric and assures that the thick fabric winds on the
take-up roll evenly with a constant width. The electronically controlled cloth take-up guarantees
exact weft densities in every terry towel and a faultless transition between pile and border. There
are five elements of a take-up system. These are

1- Temple

The temple holds the width of the fabric as it is woven in front of the reed and assures the fabric
to be firm at full width. A temple is seen on Figure.

2- Length Temple

Length temple is located on the center of loom width between two side temples. There are groves
starting from the center and going to the left and right sides of the temple. It ensures the terry
fabric is open to the sides and remains straight and tense throughout the fabric width.

3- Cloth pulling Axle with Needles

It ensures the thick terry fabric keep its tension and width while being transferred from the length
temple to the cloth transfer axle.

4- Cloth Transfer Axle

It increases the contact angle between the terry fabric and cloth pulling axle with needles and
transfers the fabric to take-up roll.

5- Take-up Roll

The fabric which comes from the transfer axle is wound on take-up roll

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Auxiliary Motions

Selvedge Forming

A length-wise edge of a woven fabric is called selvedge or selvage. The main purpose of the
selvedge is to ensure that the edge of fabric will not tear when the cloth is undergoing the
stresses and strains of the finishing process. This is achieved by making the selvedge area
stronger than the body of the cloth using heavier and plied warp yarns, increasing warp yarns per
inch, and applying different weaves. Two types of selvedge are formed during terry weaving

1-Leno Selvedge

A leno weave at the edges of the fabric locks in the warp yarns by twisting the last two warp
yarns back and forth around each pick. They are made with special leno weaving harnesses.
Leno selvedges predominate in terry weaving In below Figure, a leno selvedge forming system
for terry weaving is shown.

In Figure: the diagram of a leno selvedge is shown.

2-Tuck-in Selvedge

The fringed edges of the filling yarns are woven back into the body of the fabric using a special
tuck-in device. As a result the filling density is doubled in the selvedge area. In below Figure, the
ZTN™ needless tuck-in devices which are used in Zax- e™ terry looms from Tsudakoma is
shown. In Figure the diagram of the tuck-in selvedge is shown

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As the width of the towels is usually much narrower than that of the weaving machine width,
more than one towel may be woven at the same time. Thus, selvedges are formed not only at the
sides but also several selvedges should be formed on the sides of each towel panels woven
together.

Leno Selvedge Tuck-in Selvedge

For this reason special selvedge forming systems are produced for terry weaving. One example is
Dornier’s PneumaTuckers® for outside and center selvages, which are the selvedges of
individual towel panels when they are woven on a loom side by side.

Weft Color Choosing Motion

There are special color selection systems for inserting the required pick color while weaving
different filling colors. Terry weaving machines have weft maximum four different colors or
type of filling to be woven.

Pick Control

The pick control mechanism or pick finder detects the weft breakage. At a filling break, the
machine stops and moves at reverse slow motion – automatically – to free the broken pick. It has
a significant role in reducing the down times for repairing filling breaks and thus the starting
marks can be avoided

End Control

Drop wires which are hung individually on each warp end, fall down when a warp end is broken
or is very loose, closes down the electric circuit and thus shutting down the weaving machine.

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35
Weft Measuring and Feeding Motion

During terry weaving in shuttle – less looms, the weft is inserted from one side with the help of
rapiers, or air jet nozzles. A predetermined length of weft yarn under the necessary tension
should be inserted during each picking. Before each picking motion, a definite length of weft
pick is measure, stored usually on drum accumulators and released for picking. The weft feeders
carry out this function. They pull the weft picks from the yarn packages and wind them helically
over a turning cylinder. Winding speed determines the weft length.

Construction:

Terry towels are woven as 2, 3, 4, 5 or more pick terry weaves. The most common type is 3-pick
terry toweling. The cross section of a toweling through the Warps are divided into two systems
as shown in Figure 3, pile warps and ground warps, whereas wefts consist of only one system. In
basic Turkish Toweling, front side and back side pile warps and 1st and 2nd ground warp ends
form a 2/1 rib weave with each other. The rib weaves which is formed by the pile warps is one
pick ahead of the rib weave which is formed by ground warp ends. Warps are ordered throughout
the fabric width 1:1 or 2:2 piles and ground warps. In 1:1 warp order each ground warp end is
followed by a pile warp end while in 2:2 warp order each two ground warp ends are followed by
two pile warp ends. In Figures 3a and 3b, the weave notation of 3 weft pile basic Turkish
toweling is given in 1:1 and 2:2 warp orders

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36
As is seen from the weave diagrams in Figures a and b, the shedding of the ground warps are not
synchronized with that of the pile warps. By this, the number of interlacing throughout the warp
increases, and this strengthens the fabric. As it has been mentioned before terry towels can have
pile loops on one or both faces. Different types of terry weave which have pile on one face and
both faces.

G: Ground Warp

FP: Front Face Pile Warp

BP: Back Face Pile Warp

Little block: Ground warp is over the weft

Shaded: Front Face Pile Warp is raised over the weft

X: Back Face Pile Warp is raised over the weft

Empty space: Warp is lowered behind the weft

The weft count used for toweling is between 15 and 25 picks/cm. And warp count is between 20
and 30 ends/cm. During the weaving of borders, the weft count is increased 3 to 6 times the
density in the pile areas Pile/ground ratio is described as the length of pile warp per unit length of
fabric in the warp direction. A practical way to find out this ratio is done by measuring a 10 cm
length of toweling in the warp direction, then cut the pile warp from either ends of the measured
length and measure the total length of the removed pile end per 10 cm length of fabric. Pile warp

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37
length per 10 cm fabric is usually between 20-100 cm. This ratio has a direct effect on the fabric
weight and thickness. As the ratio increases, the weight and the thickness of the terry fabric
increases.

Weight calculation:
A certain fabric weight is laid for the fabric arrangement with goods of preset length this is
usually determined per piece and width yarded goods per running meter
As warp and pick density and already beam determined, the weight of cloth of a given size can
only be influence by the pile height (pile ratio). Each art must be determined separately when
calculating the weight of terry goods with different fabric components added together then give
the total fabric weight.
Weight is calculated by means of formulae in the table below in which the yarn count system
must be taken into account. As shorted above, weight calculation made either per pitch or over
the full fabric width (multi width). According it is necessary from to introduce the values for the
number of treads and for the drawing-in in width in the reed. Where a weight calculation is made
over several fabric widths the fabric weight is must be divided by the number of width to obtain
piece weight.
All dimension in the formulae are to be entered in centimeters (excepting yarn count), the
following list defines the variable occurring in the formulae.

Threads = the number of threads in the ground and pile warp per piece over the full fabric
width (less auxiliary selvedges)

Fineness = statement of yarn fineness the value of single thread given in count system Nm or Ne.
The degree of sizing must be taken in account with sized yarn.

Length = statement of woven clothe length without fringing

E factor = contraction ground or pile warp in the plain weave 8% i.e the E factor is 1.08 %

Plain weave = length of the plain weave ( incl trimming) or length minus pile part
Fringing length = length of fringe at start and end of the item
Pile part A = length of loop part and high pile

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38
Pile part B = length of loop part and with low pile (2nd pile high)
Pile height = interwoven pile yarn per 10 cm of fabric
Width = Drawing-in width in reed
Total pick count = this formulae can only be used where the total pick count is know for the
fabric and contains no trimming
Length C = Woven piece length less trimmings and fringes Pick count in trimming = Number
picks in the trimming

Formulae for Reproduction calculations for terry towel

Production of loom(towel/per day/mc)=Rpm×60×24×efficiency/picks per towel

Finish weight= (Gsm × size of towel in cm)/10000

Lbs/doz= (finish weight × 12)/ 453.6

Piece weight = Gsm/size of towel in cm × (wt loss+100/100)

Picks in fancy = fancy size in cm × picks in fancy per cm

Total pick/ towel =length of towel+ plain border/cam --fancy size cm – fancy size cm ×picks/cm
+ picks in fancy × number of fancy borders

Width of grey towel in inches = pile ends per towel + ends in ribbon / half of reed

Length of grey towel in inches = length of towel in cm + plain border /2.54

Weight/Gm2= weight of towel in grams/ width of towel in cm/length of towel in cm × 10000

Loops in square inch = (picks per inch/3) + (half of reed +2)

Picks in fancy border = picks in fancy × no of fancy border

Pile ends/towel = size of towel in inches × 1.17 × half of reed

Ground ends/towel = pile ends + ends in selvedge

Wt of pile (gms) = Grey wt of towel in gm – ground wt. in gms – F.B wt in gms –weft wt.

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39
Ground wt (gms) = ground ends/towel × length of towel in inch × 1.14/36/843/ground
count/2.2046/1000

Weft wt (gms) = total picks in towel – picks in fancy × (width of grey towel in
inches+1)/36/840/weft count/2.2046/1000

F.B wt (gms) = picks in fancy × width of grey towel in inches/36/840/facny border

count/2.2046×1000

Reed space in inches = running towels/ machine × width of grey towel in inches

Reed utilization % = reed space in inches / max. Reed utilization per machine

Pile Ratio = pile weight in gms × 2.2046 × 840 × pile count × 36 / pile ends per towel/length of
towel/1000

Pile height= pile ratio/2/ (picks per inch /3) × 25.4-1

Pile weight %= pile wt in gms/grey wt per towel in gms

Ground weight % = ground wt in gms / grey wt per towel in gms

Weft weight % = weft wt in gms / grey wt per towel in gms

F.B weight % = F.B weight/ grey wt per towel in gms

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40
Loom no: 4

Buyer name: RHL

Nick name : Bath mat

1. GSM : 650

2. size : 50*80 cm

3. Finished wt : 260gm

4. Grey wt : 286gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 46

7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s

8. Pile yarn count : 12R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 12s

10. Grey width(pile to pile) : 53cm

11. Grey length(pile to pile) : 79cm

12. Pile ratio :4

Loom no: 5

Name : golf towel

Buyer name : MK

1. GSM : 520

2. Size : 17*22 inch

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41
 3. Finished wt : 125.47 gm

4. Grey wt : 140gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 10s OE

8. Pile yarn count : 20/2

9. Weft yarn count : 16s OE

10. Grey width (pile to pile) : 18 inch

11. Grey length (pile to pile) : 22 inch

12. Pile ratio : 5.2

Loom no: 6

Name : bath towel

Buyer name : Manley Corporation

1. GSM : 470

2. Finished wt : 444.15 gm

3. Grey wt : 488 gm

4. Reed count : 56

5. Ground yarn count : 20/2 OE

6. Pile yarn count : 16 OE

7. Weft yarn count : 16 OE

8. Grey length (pile to pile) : 135 cm

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42
 9. Pile ratio : 7.5

Loom no: 7

Name : bath towel

Buyer name : vally forge

1. GSM :550

2. Size : 27*54 inch

3. Finished wt : 517 gm

4. Grey wt : 555 gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 46

7. Ground yarn count : 20/2 tencil

8. Pile yarn count : 16s

9. Weft yarn count : 20/2 tencil

10. Fancy yarn count : 20/2

11. Grey width (pile to pile) : 29.5 inch

12. Grey length (pile to pile) : 54.5 inch

13. Pile ratio : 6.9

Loom no: 8

Name : Fring towel (velour)

Buyer name : MK

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43
 1. GSM : 340

2. Size : 11*18 inch

3. Finished wt : 43.43gm

4. Grey wt : 50gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 10s OE

8. Pile yarn count : 20s OE

9. Weft yarn count : 16s OE

10. Grey length (pile to pile) : 18 inch

Loom no: 10

Name : bath towel (herringbone)

Buyer name : Tissages Denantes

1. GSM : 340

2. Size : 70*140 cm

3. Finished wt : 333.2 gm

4. Grey wt : 366.52gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 20/2

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44
 8. Pile yarn count : 20s

9. Weft yarn count : 16s

10. Grey width (pile to pile) : 78 cm

11. Grey length (pile to pile) : 139 cm

12. Pile ratio : 4.7

Loom no: 11

Nick name : Wash cloth

1. GSM : 550

2. size : 13*13 inch

3. Finished wt : 60gm

4. Grey wt : 65gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 44

7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s Tencil

8. Pile yarn count : 16R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 20s Tencil

10. Fancy yarn count : 20s Tencil

11. Grey width(pile to pile) : 13s/l tencil

12. Grey length(pile to pile) : 12

13. Pile ratio : 5.25

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45
Loom no: 13

Name : bath towel

Buyer name : Manley Corporation

1. GSM : 657

2. Size : 50*70 cm

3. Finished wt : 230 gm

4. Grey wt : 253 gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. Ground yarn count : 20/2 OE

7. Pile yarn count : 16s+16s OE

8. Weft yarn count : 16 OE

9. Grey length (pile to pile) : 76 cm

Loom no: 14

Buyer name : Tissages denantes

Nick name : Hand towel (herringbone)

1. GSM : 340

2. Size : 50*90 cm

3. Finished wt : 153gm

4. Grey wt : 168.3gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

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46
 7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s

8. Pile yarn count : 20R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 16s

10. Grey width(pile to pile) : 55cm

11. Grey length(pile to pile) : 90cm

12. Pile ratio : 4.8

Loom no: 16

Buyer name : RHL

Nick name : Bath mat

1. GSM : 650

2. size : 50*80 cm

3. Finished wt : 260gm

4. Grey wt : 286gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 46

7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s

8. Pile yarn count : 12R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 12s

10. Grey width(pile to pile) : 53cm

11. Grey length(pile to pile) : 79cm

12. Pile ratio :4

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Loom no: 17

Name : golf towel

Buyer name : MK

1. GSM : 520

2. Size : 17*22 inch

3. Finished wt : 125.47 gm

4. Grey wt : 140gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 10s OE

8. Pile yarn count : 20/2

9. Weft yarn count : 16s OE

10. Grey length (pile to pile) : 22 inch

11. Pile ratio : 5.2

Loom no: 18

Buyer name : Tissages Denantes

Nick name : Bath Towel

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48
 1. GSM : 390

2. size : 70*140 cm (Greeck boarder)

3. Finished wt : 382gm

4. Grey wt : 420gm

5. Reed count : 56

6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s

8. Pile yarn count : 16R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 16s

10. Grey width(pile to pile) : 73cm

11. Grey length(pile to pile) : 139cm

12. Pile ratio : 4.65

Loom no: 19

Buyer name : Tissages Denantes

Nick name : Bath Towel

1. GSM : 390

2. size : 70*140 cm (Greeck boarder)

3. Finished wt : 382gm

4. Grey wt : 420gm

5. Reed count : 56

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49
6. PPI on loom : 48

7. Ground yarn count : 20R/s

8. Pile yarn count : 16R/S

9. Weft yarn count : 16s

10. Grey width(pile to pile) : 73cm

11. Grey length(pile to pile) : 139cm

12. Pile ratio : 4.65

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50
Page
51
Date:2.12.10
Daily Production & Inspection Report-Weaving Department(DOBBY)

BUY TOD Prod PR TTL

ACTU DYE
SIZ ER No of AY in EV DYE
AL DELIV
E NAM m/c PRO wt(k PR DELIV
QT PROD ERY
E D g) OD ERY
Y 5%
50X
404
90 TD 410 430 1 300 57.9 300
1
(GB) 0 5 4341 4341
70X
15,18 338. 464
140 TD 142 149 807 807
,19 94 8
(GB) 00 10 5455 5455
50X
347
90 TD 570 598 14 543 88.5 543
0
(HB) 0 5 4013 4013
70X
73.5 144
140 TD 420 441 10 201 201
6 7
(HB) 0 0 1648 1648
27X 600 630 298. 733
VF 6,7 537 537
54 0 0 03 3 7870 7870
16X 120 126 110. 132
VF 5 604 604
30 00 00 53 77 13881 13881
13x1 300 315 300
VF 11 0
3 00 00 93 30093 30093

TOTAL 2992
67301

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52
 DYEING SECTION Gray towel

Approval of lab dip

Gray towel
Inspection

Batching

Scouring and
Bleaching

Acid wash

Enzyme wash (if

require)

Dyeing

Soaping

Softening

Hydro
Flow chart of dyeing-finishing after Extractor
weaving.

Rope Opener

TumblerPage
Dryer
53
Stanter
Layout of dyeing section:

Che
Stanter m/c mic
al
stor

Office

Dryer
m/c Lab

Page
54
 Rope 600
opene
hydroex 250k
Sample
tructor g kg
r m/c
Lab

1000 1500k 2000 600k

kg kg

Machines dyeing section:

Sl Functional name Description Quantity

no

01 Water treatment plant Water treatment plant 01

02 Tumbler Tumbler 02
Model: 2001
03 Hydro Extractor Santrafuj this Hydro Extractor, 01
Modek;1988
04 Hydro Extractor Santrafuj this Hydro Extractor, 01
Modek;2001
05 Dyeing nem/c 600/2 dilmener DMS 11 HT 02
Jump
Model-2006
Capacity: 600 kg
06 Dyeing M/C KTM/H.T Rapid Machine 250-kg 01
Type HT-E
Model: 2009
Capacity: 250 kg
07 Sample dyeing mach KTM/H.T Rapid Machine 25-kg 2
Type HT-E
Model: 2009
Capacity:25 kg
08 Dyeing machine KTM/H.T Rapid Machine 1
Type HT-E
Model: 2009
Capacity: 1.5 ton
Remarks: waiting for

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55
 comissioning
09 Dyeing machine KTM/H.T Rapid Machine 2ton 1
Type HT-E
Model: 2009
Capacity: 2 ton
Remarks: waiting for
comissioning
09 Stanter Stanter 01
10 Rope Opener Rope Opening Eltsmak 01
Model-2006

Dyeing section Picture:

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56
Fig: 600/2 dilmener DMS 11 HT Jump, Model-2006, Capacity: 600 kg

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57
KTM/H.T Rapid Machine 250-kg,Type HT-E,
Model: 2009, Capacity: 250 kg

Fig: control panel

Hydro Extractor:

Hydro extractor is used to remove the water from the fabric using centrifugal force.

Figure: Hydro extractor

Tumble dryer:

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58
Fig: Tumble dryer (Thies) Fig: Schemetic diagram of tumble dryer
And its fabric running path.

REF. 29338-1
BRAND Thies
Model Tumbler type T 150
ww (in cm or inch) 220cm
Short description Steam heated
YEAR 1992
QUANTITY 1
LOCATION EUROPE Western and Northern

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59
 SEWING SECTION

Cutting and Sewing:

In this stage, towels pass through four steps

- Longitudinal cutting

- Longitudinal hemming

- Cross cutting

- Cross hemmingThese processes are achieved by scissors and standard sewing machines by
workers or by machines specialized in towel cutting or sewing or even by automatic machines
which can carry out some of or all of the mentioned processes Lengthwise cutting machines are
used for the first step of this stage, longitudinal cutting of towels which have been produced on
the weaving loom as several panels joined side by side. In these machines, there are several

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60
cutters which cut lengthwise between adjacent towel panels in order to separate them. The
cutting process can be carried out by means of a pressing blade on a motorized roll in the
lengthwise cutter. a longitudinal cutting machine is shown

Next, longitudinal hemming is achieved by lengthwise hemming machines, most of which are
usually equipped with two 401 chain stitch sewing machines, one on the right side and one on
the left side, for the longitudinal hemming of towels. Labels can be attached during lengthwise
hemming. In a longitudinal hemming machine is shown.

After lengthwise hemming, towels pass through cross cutting as the third step. Transversal
cutting machines carry out product stacking and automatic discharge.

The cut product is stacked in layers one on the other.

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Quality control section
Page
62
Steps of operation involved to improve the product quality:

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63
Quality control department

In-House Quality Control

Test Equipment and Facilities

shabab Fabrics Ltd. has an in-house fabric weaving and checking section called Quality
Assurance department. Every individual employee is jointly responsible for the quality the
products and consequently for our success.
Quality Grading System

• For Piece Towel  Piece Grading.

• For Continuous Terry Fabric  4 point system.
Defect Classification (Four- Point System):

Size Defect Penalty

3 inches or less 1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 Points

Over 6 inches, but less than 9 3 Points

Over 9 inches 4 Points

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that
would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)

Major Defects:

• Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns,
yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.

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 • Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color
smear, or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:

• 40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate

• # of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure:

• Determine the amount to inspect

• Select the rolls to inspect.
• Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
• Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side
of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any
shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.
• Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects.
(The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes
you may have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a
garment.
• Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
• Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
• Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
• Record any defects.
Shading:

Shading is an important defect to catch prior to production. The bundler has the responsibility to
check for shade problems prior to allowing the bundles to be put into the line. Both rolls and
cuts should be checked for shading problems.

• A 4 inch square swatch from every roll received should be cut. (It is important to obtain
a sample from every roll so that the rolls are checked 100%.
• All samples should be laid out and grouped by shade. This area must be well lit in order
to properly shade the rolls.

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 • Rolls should be grouped together accordingly by shade.

Quality Control Aspects:

Yarns for terry weaving

Yarns for weaving may be:
(i) Grey yarns
(ii) Processed yarns (bleached yarns, mercerised yarn, dyed yarn)
Terry fabrics must be produced at a certain weight per square metre, using mostly 100% cotton
yarns as Pile, ground and weft. Yarn counts that are normally used for pile warp yarns are: Ne
10, Ne12, Ne16, Ne 2/20, Ne 2/24, Ne10 etc.
Count ranges used for ground warp yarns are:
Ne10, Ne11, Ne 2/20, Ne2/24 etc.
Count range for weft yarns are:
Ne 2/20, Ne1/14, Ne1/12, Ne 2/24, Ne 2/16, etc.
It is the pile yarns that contribute to more than 60% of total fabric weight. Mostly ring spun
yarns are used as pile yarns. OE yarns also can be used as pile yarns and it depends upon
customer requirements. Typical yarn quality requirements for pile warp yarn are given in Table
1.

Table - 1

Acceptable Range
Parameters 16S C 2/24S C 10S
Count Cv % <1.2 <1.2 <1.2
Strength Cv % <5 <5 <5
CSP 2300 2300 2200
Avg. TPI 14.8 8.7 12.5
Rkm 15.2 14.5 14
Rkm Cv % <8.5 <8.5 <8.5
Elongation % 4.8 4.3 5.8
Elongation Cv% <10.0 <10.0 <10
Imperfection/km 70 20 24
Hairiness index <10.8 <11.2 <11.1

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Warping
Beam warping or direct warping is the preferred route for producing piece dyed terry fabrics
while sectional warping is opted for yarn dyed fabric production.

(a) Control on incoming material (cones)

To ensure the production of a quality beam at sizing it is very essential to have a strict control on
the incoming material. Apart from testing the cones for quality parameters (Table 1), the
following measures have to be adopted.

A regular check on the lot number of cones in the carton boxes and the presence/absence of
identification mark on cones shall be established. Mixing up of yarns of different counts and
cones of different lot numbers will lead to shade variation after dyeing. Check the weight of
cones on sample basis and find out the weight variation of cones. A report on Cone weight
variation shall be maintained. Cone density may also be checked periodically
Proper material handling procedures has to be set and should be followed strictly.

(b) Warping stage

Quality control measures:

Speed of warping should be almost constant throughout the winding of the beam. Of course,
running the machine at slower speeds during the initial and final phase to control end breaks is
allowable. Sort details (count, type of yarn, no. of ends/creel) and labeling on beam is to be
checked for identification and traceability.
Proper working of stop motions has to be checked to avoid missing ends in the beam. An end
break study has to be done for each lot of material and the reason for end breaks has to be
recorded and investigated.
Packages causing repeated machine stops should be immediately replaced by the worker. Single
end tension can be measured at different positions in the creel, ie. near the headstock, at the
farthest creel position, in the left side of the m/c, and in the right side of the m/c.
Beam density can be checked at the left, centre and right side of the beam.
Percentage of bottoms generated (Remnant %) has to be calculated for every creeling. For
efficient warping operation, the remnant should be less than 1%.
Temperature & RH conditions are to be maintained inside the department.
Though the present day machines have mechanisms that automatically regulate the yarn tension,
pressure on drum for beam density as per requirements, a random check on these parameters is
must to produce a quality warpers beam.

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Sizing
The importance of sizing is well known and a proper sizing only can ensure loom efficiency and
production of quality fabric. The percentage of size add-on depends on quality of yarn, ends/inch
in the fabric, loom speed, etc. But the real performance of sized yarn is assessed by the incidence
of end breaks in loom. End break study in the loom shed will give a clear picture on the quality
of sizing. Sizing of pile yarns for terry weaving usually requires a low size add-on of 1 to 5%
compared to 8 -14% of warp yarn for ordinary weaving. Ground yarns also require low size add-
on especially if they are doubled yarns.

Still, the operation of sizing is very critical as poor sizing causes variety of production and
quality problems in loom shed. If yarns are not properly covered by the size, on exposure to
abrasive actions in loom, the fibres from the yarn body will be pulled out, leading to the problem
of “linting” in terry fabrics. Linting is a major quality problem.

Quality control measures at sizing

Check the quality of size materials, Check the viscosity (using viscosity cup) and solid content
(using refractometre) of size paste in both the cooking stage and also in sow box.
Sizing quality study has to be done for full beam, at least once in a shift for every machine and
the incidence of lappers and migratory ends has to be recorded. Check the creel tension, braking
pressure of creel beam, feed tension of yarn before sow box, sow box temperature, nip pressure
(squeezing), drying zone temperature, beam pressing pressure, winding tension and % stretch.
These parameters are automatically regulated in automatic sizing machines as per requirements.
A random check on % moisture in the sized beam is essential even for automatic sizing machines
that have automatic control. Every sized beam has to be weighed and % size add-on is to be
calculated & recorded. Tensile testing of sized yarn may also be carried out to ascertain the
improvement in strength.

Terry weaving

The production of terry fabrics require the use of two beams, one beam for the ground structure
and the other for pile structure. Generally warp density varies between 10-15 ends/cm in ground
and as well as pile. In denser construction it ranges between 15-18 ends/cm. The pile ratio of 1:4
to 1:8 is used depending on the end use of terry fabrics. Pile ratio is the length of pile yarn to the
length of terry fabric.

Quality control measures at loom shed

A typical loom card data for production of a terry towel fabric is shown in Table 2 and the
formation of a three pick terry structure is shown in Figure 1.

Table 2

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Sort number R02312
Grey size (cm) 145 x 85
Finished size (cm) 137 x 76
Ground yarn count 11S
Pile yarn count 10S
Weft 2/20S
Pile ends/towel 1020
Ground ends/towel 1164
GSM 508
Picks per cm 13
Pile ratio 4.47
Pile height (cm) 0.52
Towel weight (g) 629.69
Figure1. Formation of a three picks terry structure

a) First Piece Inspection

For every new sort, on production of few metres of fabric, the fabric has to be inspected for the
following against the customer requirements. Weight per square metre (GSM)
Pile ratio, Dimensions (length, width, size of design portion, etc), End/inch, picks/inch
Loops/sq inch, and any defects.

b) Control on weight per square metre of terry fabrics

Terry fabrics are sold on weight basis and hence a control on fabric weight is of paramount
importance. Weight/square metre (GSM) of terry fabrics are generally in the range of 360-670
grams. Companies mainly use standard warp and weft yarn counts as well as warp density. For
required terry weight per square metre, the weft density and pile length are the parameters to be
adjusted. The length of pile in relation to the length of terry fabric is measured in terms of pile
ratio.
The pile ratio, pile height and weft density (picks/cm) are related by the expression,

Pile height (in cm) = (Pile ratio/Picks per cm) x 0.5 x Type of terry

(c) Online and offline inspections

On-line inspection in looms should ensure that defects are identified and rectified in the loom
stage itself. In fact, on loom inspection gives a clear idea not only on the defects, but also on the

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quality of warp beams, quality of weft yarn, condition of m/c, operator skill, etc.
Off-line inspection, which is grey inspection of fabrics, is normally carried out on sample basis
and the defects are to be properly identified and recorded. 100% Grey inspection is necessary
only if the online inspections are not effective in controlling the defects. The doff weight and
dimensions of relaxed fabrics are checked in grey inspection stage.

Defects can also be classified as Major and Minor depending on its intensity.
For example, temple mark that is visible as thin lines in grey inspection stage may not show up
after processing stage. This can be considered as a minor defect. However, if the lines are very
prominent and had disturbed the loop structure, it is certain that they will show up well after
processing. Then it should be considered as a major defect. In this regard, training of quality
personnel about various types of defects in fabrics and its implication on the final quality of the
product is a must.

Quality control measures at Dyeing and Finishing shed

* After getting color sample from Buyer, Lab-dip should be done accordingly and check fastness
of lab sample according to Buyer’s requirement and get approval from Buyer.

* In bulk dyeing Q.A. dept. should match bulk sample with approved sample and ensure there is
no uneven and patchy dyeing.

* Q.A. dept should ensure that there is no pulling of pile and pilling or other defect comes from
dyeing machinery.

Quality control measures at Stitching shed

* Q.A. dept check stitching of towel in line and ensure there is no fake stitching and also check
label attachment.

* Q.A. dept check measure length, width, G.S.M. and other defect randomly every day and make
a report of that day.

* When stitching dept will pack at least 1500 Pcs towel, then Q.A. dept will check it in AQL
system if not pass then all towel should be rechecked again by the stitching dept.

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Quality Assurance Policy

Lab test:

1. Yarn count
2. Strength of yarn
3. T.P.I
4. Moisture content
5. Thick and Thin place

...Then the yarn will be received by store.

Warping check point:

i. Lot mixing: To avoid lot mixing before taking on the creel for warping,
every cone should be checked by Q.A. Dept. and must give a sign on the warping
plan paper.
ii. Design check: After arranging creel with colored yarn when pass the
leasing reed Q.A. dept. should check the design arrangement, if ok then sign.
iii. When warping going on then a black scale or white scale must be put
under the yarn to check count variation.
iv. To avoid the count mixing in re-coning, Q.A. dept. must ensure that there
is cone sticker to identify count and lot number.
Sizing:

i. Q.A. dept must check elongation of sized yarn.

ii. Q.A. dept must check sized creel or pre-beam creel to ensure all beam are for same
programmed.
Weaving:

i. Weft yarn should be checked to ensure that no count, lot and color mixing.
ii. Q.A. must check G.S.M., PPI and EPI, Length of Towel, Width of Towel, Fancy
boarder size.

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 iii. Weaving dept. will have there own quality control wing to check and inform about
defect to the production wing.
iv. Q.A. make report sheet of individual shift and place it to manager.
Dyeing and Finishing:

i. After getting color sample from Buyer, Lab-dip should be done accordingly and
check fastness of lab sample according to Buyer’s requirement and get approval
from Buyer.
ii. In bulk dyeing Q.A. dept. should match bulk sample with approved sample and
ensure there is no uneven and patchy dyeing.
iii. Q.A. dept should ensure that there is no pulling of pile and pilling or other defect
comes from dyeing machinery.
Stitching:

i. Q.A. dept check stitching of towel in line and ensure there is no fake stitching and
also check label attachment.
ii. Q.A. dept check measure length, width, G.S.M. and other defect randomly every
day and make a report of that day.
iii. When stitching dept will pack at least 1500 Pcs towel, then Q.A. dept will check it
in aqual system if not pass then all towel should be rechecked again by the
stitching dept.

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Page
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 UTILITY SECTION

Power generation:

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 Fig: Jenbacher gas generator. Fig: Dissel engin generator

Steam System:

It is essential for textile industries to have a boiler system for heat exchange for the require ment
of heat to different machine like, dyeing machine, tumble dryer, stenter, sizing, calendering,
different finishing machine etc.

Fig: Cochran Boiler

Specification of Boiler:

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Biler serial no 35/4914

Maximum continuous rating 11340 Kg/hr

Working pressure 10 bar g

Design pressure 11 bar g

Hydroulic pressure 16.5 bar g

Safety valve setting 10.5 bar g

Electrical supply 400v 3ph 50Hz

Control Circuit 230 volt

Date of manufacture 2009

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 SWOT ANALYSIS

Strengths:

Having own electricity plant:

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Shabab Fabric Ltd having own electricity power plant which is producing electricity for the
Shabab Fabric Ltd.

Power Looms:
Shabab Fabric Ltd has purchased latest power looms, Sulzer Power Looms which have. That’s
why they have reduced the production cost and have increased the quality and efficiency of their
textile products.

Cross Cultural Communication:

In Shabab Fabric Ltd there are near about 250 employees who are from different environments
and having different cultures but fortunately there is no cross cultural communication.

Team Building:
Shabab Fabrics Ltd. has a good team behind its progress and everyone is dedicated to its goal.

Research & development:

Its R&D department is strong enough to execute any designs and innovate new ones to compete
worldwide.

Weaknesses:

Administrative Expenses:
There are high overhead charges throughout the year particularly administrative expenditures.
Management whether it is lower management or upper management, the expenditures are same
but company is not getting equal profit from them that’s why expenditures are increasing.

Reliability on Foreign Customers:

Always organization has to rely on foreign customers and it would become risk especially in
financial matters and possibility of fraud would be there. Shabab Fabric Ltd is too much
depending upon their foreign customers. They have limited number of foreign customers and it
can also be a problem later.

ERP Software:

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Absence of ERP software is a weakness as well. An ERP would help to find better
communication among the departments and secured data collection.

Lack of orders:

As Shabab Fabrics Ltd. is a new factory with few buyers, so lack of orders often happens and
this results in the stoppage of machines.

Opportunities:
New Technology:
The technology has been improved for the textile industry and these technologies are being
acquired by the international competitors as well as by local competitors so they are producing
good quality textile products and increasing the efficiency as well as decreasing the cost of
production. Shabab Fabric Ltd has the opportunity to invest for the new technology. By
acquiring the latest technology, they can increase the production quality, efficiency and can
decrease the cost of production.

Motivating the employees:

HR department can prove and show them they are here for employees by motivating the
employees performing their best. They can find the motivation level of their employees and give
them incentives to motivate them.

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Advertising:
SHABAB FABRIC LTD has the opportunity to advertise about their selves to promote their
textile products. They can advertise in international magazines about their selves. Improving
facilities of their own website can also promote their advertisement.
SHABAB FABRIC LTD’s own Shops:
SHABAB FABRIC LTD can open its own shops in local market where they can display their
products. The big advantage would be that advertising would be done automatically and textile
products would also be sold to local market.
Online Shopping Store:
SHABAB FABRIC LTD can open its online store where they can show their garments variety
and apparels. The advantage of this step would be
-Online Marketing
-Capturing the market over internet internationally
-Capturing the market over internet locally
-The material which you put on your fair price shop can be sold out at online.
Threats:

Increment in freight charges:

The prices of petroleum have been increased and still increasing rapidly. That’s why the freight
charges have been increased and the cost of productions has also been increased by the huge
amount. Due to these increments, the sale price has also been increased but customers are not
ready to pay more for a good quality instead of better quality. And transport companies are
demanding more increments to use their transportation services. As the prices of petroleum is
increasing rapidly, domestically and internationally which are affecting the company’s cost of
freights. Due to increments in manufacturing cost & freights, the profit ratio has been decreased
because customers are demanding the better quality products of textile in low cost.

Lack of buyers:

Limited number of buyers can be a threat as well. Because it is always a risk to depend on a
single buyer.

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Conclusion:

At the end of our industrial training, we can say that we have successfully completed our
industrial training at shabab fabrics ltd. Every textile student should do their training attentively
and regularly because it minimizes the gap between our theoretical as well as practical
knowledge. After the completion of the training period we have gained a lot of practical
knowledge about the towel manufacturing process, machinery maintenance industrial
management and the working environment that will help us to build our future carrier. At last I
can say that the entire team of Shabab fabrics ltd helped us a lot and we are really grateful to
them.

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