Introduction to Menswear:

A guide to timeless style

 The Men’s Suit

Understanding the most venerable article of menswear

 What is a Men’s Suit?
• Components of a men’s suit
• Construction of a men’s suit
• Fit of a men’s suit
• Styles of single-breasted men’s suits
• The double-breasted suit jacket
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• The single-breasted suit jacket
– Between one and four waist buttons
– Sleeve buttons (Functional or not)
– The interlining (Full canvas or fused)
– Zero, one, or two vents in back
– Notched, peaked, or shawl collar joints
– Lapel widths
– Pockets (Jetted, flap, or patch)
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Men’s trousers
– Pleated or flat front
– Waist buttons and joiners
– Belts and braces/suspenders
– Cuffs
– Full-break, half-break, and flood
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Men’s trousers
– Pleated or flat front
– Waist buttons and joiners
– Belts and braces/suspenders
– Cuffs
– Full-break, half-break, and flood
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Men’s trousers
– Pleated or flat front
– Waist buttons and joiners
– Belts and braces/suspenders
– Cuffs
– Full-break, half-break, and flood
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Men’s trousers
– Pleated or flat front
– Waist buttons and joiners
– Belts and braces/suspenders
– Cuffs
– Full-break, half-break, and flood
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Men’s trousers
– Pleated or flat front
– Waist buttons and joiners
– Belts and braces/suspenders
– Cuffs
– Full-break, half-break, and flood
 Components of a Men’s Suit
• Vests/Waistcoats
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Fabrics
• Patterns
• Colours
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Fabrics
– Worsted wool
– Wool flannel
– Silk
– Linen
– Cotton
– Wool gabardine
– Tweed
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Patterns
– Pinstripe
– Chalk stripe
– Glen check
– Windowpane check
– Bird’s eye
– Herringbone
– Tartan/plaid
– Houndstooth
 Construction of a Men’s Suit
• Colours
– Black
– Charcoal gray
– Navy blue
– Brown
– Olive
– Medium and light gray
– Tan/khaki/taupe
– Light blue
– White
 Fit of a Men’s Suit
• Sleeve length
• Trouser length
• Jacket’s chest, shoulder, and waist fit
• Trouser’s waist fit
 Fit of a Men’s Suit
• Sleeve length
– Should end ¼"-½" before the shirt cuff
 Fit of a Men’s Suit
• Trouser length
– Down at least as far as the top of the shoe, but
not so far as to touch the ground. Most commonly
down to the top of the shoe’s sole in the back (Full
break).
 Fit of a Men’s Suit
• Jacket’s chest, shoulder, and waist fit
– When standing straight with jacket buttoned, the
lapels should naturally rest flat against the front of
the jacket
– The jacket’s shoulders should not rise above your
shoulders when you lift your arms
– The jacket should have a noticeable difference in
chest width and waist width; a suppressed waist
 Fit of a Men’s Suit
• Trouser’s waist fit
– Should stay in place around the natural waist
when fastened without a belt or suspenders
– Should not sag or bunch in the crotch or hips
– When standing straight with the trousers
fastened, the pleats (if any) should be relaxed
 Styles of Single-Breasted Men’s
Suits
• Continental/Italian suits
• American/sack suits
• English suits
 Styles of Single-Breasted Men’s
Suits
• Continental/Italian suits
– High, padded shoulders
– Higher thread count (Lighter fabrics)
– Tight-fitting, with a somewhat suppressed waist
– Two waist buttons
– No vent
 Styles of Single-Breasted Men’s
Suits
• American/sack suits
– Lightly padded shoulders
– Straight, boxy, roomier body
– Three waist buttons
– Single vent
 Styles of Single-Breasted Men’s
Suits
• English suits
– Natural, unpadded shoulders
– Heavier fabrics
– High, strongly suppressed, hourglass waist
– Two or three buttons
– Two vents
 The Double-Breasted Suit Jacket
• One row of buttons on each side
• An extra layer of fabric over the front when
buttoned
• Peaked lapels
“I do not mean to suggest for a moment that
all it takes to be a top executive is a custom-
tailored European suit. You also need the
correct shirt and tie.” –Dave Barry
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
• Placket
• Pleats
• Cuffs
• Pockets
• Collars
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
– Marcella
– Broadcloth
– Twill
– Poplin
– Oxford
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
– Marcella
– Broadcloth
– Twill
– Poplin
– Oxford
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
– Marcella
– Broadcloth
– Twill
– Poplin
– Oxford
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
– Marcella
– Broadcloth
– Twill
– Poplin
– Oxford
 Dress Shirts
• Shirtings
– Marcella
– Broadcloth
– Twill
– Poplin
– Oxford
 Dress Shirts
• Placket
– Standard placket
– French placket/plain front
 Dress Shirts
• Pleats
– American style, box pleats close together on the
back, between the shoulders
– English style, knife pleats spread out, below the
shoulders
 Dress Shirts
• Cuffs
– Button cuffs, with a single button on the cuff or
two buttons side-by-side
– Barrel cuffs, with two buttons down the cuff
– French cuffs, held together by cufflinks
– Gauntlet button, which holds the wrist of the shirt
closed
 Dress Shirts
• Pockets
– Zero, one, or two breast pockets on the front
– May also have a flap fastened with a button over
the pocket
– In general, the fewer pockets, and the less-
adorned pockets, the dressier
 Dress Shirts
• Collars
– Button-down
– Pointed
– Wing
 Dress Shirts
• Button-down collars
– The least formal collars
– Ends of the collars are fastened to the front of the
shirt by buttons
 Dress Shirts
• Pointed collars
– Come in two varieties: The point collar, with a
smaller angle between the collar points, and the
cut-away, or spread collar, with a wider angle
– Held in place by collar stays
 Dress Shirts
• Wing collars
– The most formal collars, only to be worn with
formal (white tie) or semiformal (black tie)
– This collar is not turned down; the tie is exposed
all around the collar, and two protrusions hang
from the front, tucked into the tie
– Heavily starched
– Often separate from the shirt, attachable by
buttons
 Ties
• Necktie patterns
– Solid-colour ties
– Striped ties
– Plaid ties
– Polka dot ties
– Paisley ties
– Figure ties
 Ties
• Necktie patterns
– Solid-colour ties
– Striped ties
– Plaid ties
– Polka dot ties
– Paisley ties
– Figure ties
 Ties
• Necktie patterns
– Solid-colour ties
– Striped ties
– Plaid ties
– Polka dot ties
– Paisley ties
– Figure ties
 Ties
• Necktie patterns
– Solid-colour ties
– Striped ties
– Plaid ties
– Polka dot ties
– Paisley ties
– Figure ties
 Ties
• Matching ties with an outfit
– Solid ties are the easiest; choose colours that
complement the outfit without appearing overly
coordinated and forced
– With patterned ties, the dominant colour should
complement the outfit, and none of the secondary
colours should clash
 Shoes
• Opera pumps
– Black patent leather
– Raised heel
– Instep cut away
– Adorned with a silk grosgrain bow
– Only worn with formal and semiformal outfits
 Shoes
• Oxford Balmoral dress shoe
– Rounded toe, with a plain cap
– Closed lacing
– The most appropriate for businesswear
 Shoes
• Blucher/Derby dress shoe
– Rounded toe, with no cap
– Open lacing
– Appropriate for wear with a suit or business casual
 Shoes
• Wing-tip dress shoe
– Rounded toe, with brogueing (perforations) on the
cap
– Open lacing
– Appropriate for businesswear in black, and smart
casual in all colours
 Shoes
• Slip-on dress shoes
– No lacing; may be held with a metal buckle
(monkstraps), a metal strap (bit loafers), a leather
strap (penny loafers), and various other ways
– Appropriate with a suit only while travelling;
otherwise, strictly for casual wear
 Men’s Accessories
• Pocket squares
• Boutonnieres
• Hats
• Watches
• Tie clips/Tie chains/Tie tacks
 Men’s Accessories
• Pocket squares
– Pocket squares, or dress handkerchiefs, are small
squares of fabric folded and placed in the jacket
breast pocket
– They should always complement the outfit, and
never match the tie
– These are only meant for decoration
 Men’s Accessories
• Pocket square folds
– The square fold
– The two point fold
– The flute
 Men’s Accessories
• Boutonnieres
– Flowers worn in the lapel buttonhole of the jacket
– The stem fits through the buttonhole and is held
in place by a loop of fabric on the back side of the
lapel
– Should only be a single flower or a few small
blooms with no stem showing
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hats
– Top hat
– Homburg
– Bowler/Derby
– Fedora
– Porkpie
– Flat cap
 Men’s Accessories
• Hat etiquette
– Remove your hat upon entering a restaurant or
home and leave it off until leaving
– Tap the brim of your hat when you encounter a
male acquaintance
– Grasp your hat by the top of the crown and lift it
slightly when you encounter a female
acquaintance
 Men’s Accessories
• Watches
– Wristwatches with small faces and leather bands
are the most formal
– Metal bands are slightly less formal
– Pocket watches are the only watches acceptable
with formalwear
 Men’s Accessories
• Tie clips
– Small metal clips to hold the necktie in place
• Tie chain
– A chain attached to a button on the shirt holds the
necktie in place
• Tie tack
– A pin pushed through the tie fabric and the shirt
holds the necktie in place
 How to Dress
• Levels of formality
• Matching colours
• Dressing for your body type
• Menswear rules
 How to Dress
• Levels of formality
– Formal (White tie)
• Black, cut-away tailcoat
• Black trousers, worn with braces, no belt-loops
• White, starched dress shirt with wing collar
• White bow-tie
• White waistcoat
• Black opera pumps
 How to Dress
• Semiformal (Black tie)
– Black dinner jacket
– Black trousers
– Black waistcoat
– White dress shirt
– Black bow-tie
– Black, patent leather Oxfords or opera pumps
 How to Dress
• Black tie optional
– Either semiformal attire, or:
– An unpatterned suit in black, dark gray, or navy
blue
– Dark, modestly patterned necktie
– White or powder blue dress shirt
– Black Oxford Bals
 How to Dress
• Business formal (Best for job interviews)
– Charcoal gray or navy blue suit, unpatterned or
with pinstripes
– White or powder blue dress shirt
– Ties primarily coloured red, blue, or gold
– Oxfords, Bluchers, or Wingtips, either plain or with
minimal brogueing
 How to Dress
• Business casual
– Non-matching jacket and dress trousers
– Dress shirt
– Necktie
– Dress shoes
 How to Dress
• Smart casual
– Dress shirt
– Either a necktie or an odd jacket
– Dress trousers
– Dress shoes or elegant sneakers in good condition
 How to Dress
• Matching colours
– Core colour: This is the dominant colour in the
outfit
– Accent colours: Secondary colours in the outfit;
these should be complementary, triad, analagous,
or neutral to the core colour
 How to Dress
• Dressing for your body type:
– The tall man
• Choose fabric patterns with horizontal lines
• Longer trouser cuffs
• Longer jackets
• Three-button suits, or even four-button suits for
extremely tall men
 How to Dress
• Dressing for your body type
– The short man
• Choose solid fabrics or stripes
• Wider shoulders to make the head appear smaller
• Cuffless trousers
 How to Dress
• Dressing for your body type
– The heavy man
• Choose clothing that fits loosely in the midsection
• Two button jackets to make the chest more prominent
• Suspenders
• Waistcoats
• Dark, solid colours or stripes
 How to Dress
• Dressing for your body type
– The thin man
• Choose patterns with horizontal lines and textured
fabrics
• Double-breasted jackets
• Spread collars
• Narrow lapels
 How to Dress
• Menswear rules:
– Never wear suspenders with a belt
– Leather matches leather; metal matches metal
– Men whose skin and hair are high-contrast should wear
high-contrast clothing, and vice versa
– Generally, the less adorned or flashy an article of clothing,
the dressier
– The outfit is designed to draw attention to the face, not to
the clothing
– Socks should match the trousers