Kindle 2 Bag Sewing Tutorial

Supplies
 ¼ yard each of main (exterior) fabric, fusible fleece interfacing, lining (I used flannel)
 Velcro: ¾-inch wide, cut into length of 4½ inches
 Pins
 Thread to match
 Scissors
Fabric Cutting
NOTE: in cutting your fabrics, the top of your case is 6 ½-inches wide. Measure and cut your main
(exterior) fabric carefully for both the front and back if there’s a design element you want to feature; see
following diagrams:

Top is 6 ½-inches Top of pocket is 6

in width. ½-inches in width
and 5-inches in
Note: Front and height
back sections are
two different
cutting sizes.

Cut all three fabrics as follows (you should have three pieces for each section):

 Front: cut 1 piece 9¼-inches by 6½-inches each from: main, interfacing, and lining fabric. Tip: place a
piece of masking tape or pin a note identifying the top of your case so you don’t get confused later.
 Back: cut 1 piece 11½-inches by 6½-inches each from main (exterior), interfacing, and lining fabric.
 Pocket: cut 1 piece 5-inches by 6½-inches each from main (exterior), interfacing, and lining fabric.
The top of this piece will be one side of the 6½-inch width.
Directions
1. Iron the fusible fleece interfacing to the wrong side of each of the lining pieces for the back and
pocket, and the wrong side of the main (exterior) front fabric piece.
2. Take the long back lining fabric piece, place it on your work table with the right-side facing up and the
interfacing wrong-side down. Center and pin the male (rough) side of your Velcro ½-inch from one 6
½-inch-wide edge on the right-side of the lining panel. Zig-zag around all four sides of the Velcro. Set
aside for now.

3. With the wrong side of the long back main fabric facing up, fold over the top 2 inches toward and
press. You should now have 2 inches of the right-side of the fabric facing you and the rest is the
fabric’s wrong-side. This end will serve as part of your fold-over flap and the pressed line will mark a
sewing start/stop point for the next step. Open up the folded flap for the next step.

4. Place the back lining piece right-side up on your work table (the wrong-side of the Velcro should be at
your top). Layer the back main fabric section wrong-side up on top of the lining piece (the pocket
section should be at the bottom). Pin, matching the top and two sides. Starting on one side at the
point where you pressed the fold-over seam, stitch a ¼-inch seam from the point where you pressed
the fold-over seam, around the top of the bag (the Velcro end), and up the other side, stopping at the
pressed fold-over seam marking. Clip into the fabric at the juncture of the pressed seam marker and
the finished seam. Set aside for now.
Clip here
Bag Top

Wrong side Pressed line

of fabric and
pocket area

Stitching

Clip here
5. Position the pocket lining piece right-side up (interfacing side wrong-side down) on your work table.
Place the pocket main fabric wrong-side up on top of the lining piece. Pin and sew a ¼-inch seam
along one long side (6 ½-inches). Flip lining fabric over the main fabric piece and press. Top-stitch
along the seamed top edge of the pocket (optional).

6. With the long back main piece made in Step 4 placed right-side up on your work table, lay the
finished pocket piece made in Step 5 with the main fabric facing right-side up on one bottom end of
your back lining section. Baste close to edge around one side, across the bottom, and up the other
side, leaving the top-stitched top piece of the pocket open. Your pocket will now look like the
following:

7. Take the short front main fabric piece, place it on your work table right-side facing up and interfacing
wrong-side down. Center and pin the female (soft) side of your Velcro 1½-inches from one 6 ½-inch-
wide edge on the right-side of top of the lining panel. Zig-zag around all four sides of the Velcro.

8. Layer the short front sections in the following way: front main fabric piece right-side up with the
interface side down, and then layer the front lining piece wrong-side up. Pin the top in place and stitch
a ¼-inch seam along the top only. Flip the lining over, press, and top-stitch close to the folded edge
(top-stitching is optional). Open up the main fabric and lining and iron open. Set aside for now.
9. Now take your finished long section and lay it right-side up with the lining to one side and the extra
flap section folded towards the lining fabric.

On top of this panel, place the short section so that the two lining panels match. Pin the lining into
place and sew a ¼-inch seam from the notch on one side, down the side, around the bottom of the
bag, and up the other side, stopping at the second notch. Be sure to back-stitch at both ends and also
watch out not to catch the flap fold-over piece in your stitching.

10. Now move to the opposite end and work on the lining by matching up the ends and side, moving the
fold-over flap piece toward the main fabric section. Pin the lining edges into place. Starting at the
notch made earlier, sew a ¼-inch seam from down the side of the lining section, stopping at the end
and back-stitching. Do not sew the short end of the lining as that is what you’ll use to turn the bag
right-side out. Turn the bag around a bit and sew up the other side of the lining, stopping at the notch
and back-stitching at each end. Be careful not to catch the flap fold-over piece in your stitching.
11. Turn bag inside out through the opening on the short end of the lining and also push out the flap area.
If there are any seams you missed near the flap fold-over, you can quickly slip-stitch those small
areas.
12. To close the end of the lining section, turn under ¼-inch, press, and slip-stitch close to the edge.
Push lining into bag and press. You’re done.

Enjoy and Read Lots of Books!

Please do not use my tutorial to make items for commercial sale.

Junie Moon blog http://junie-moon.blogspot.com j.scroggin@cox.net

© June Scroggin, All Rights Reserved