So Sew Easy

Roundabout Bag
Enjoy the envy of your friends with this unusual round purse that’s smart
enough for the office and roomy enough for all of your essentials and
more.

Features:

 Unusual circular design

 Top zipper
 Ready made leather handles for a store-bought look
 Roomy inside
 Front single pocket with twist lock You can read more about this pattern at
 Back divided pocket
 Internal pocket options So Sew Easy HERE.
 Optional piping
 Full video tutorial
 Finished size – approx. 9 inches across by 3 inches deep

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Skill level – Intermediate Printing and Cutting instructions
You will need to know how to sew a zipper, and how to make or use
piping. Experience in bag making is useful, along with working with
To print your PDF pattern
thick layers. Your pattern and instructions come as one file to make printing easy.
Please make sure you are using the latest version of Adobe for best
You may find these tutorials useful for this project: results. You can download the latest version here if you need to.
 How to make continuous bias tape
Make sure you have selected Actual Size as the print option so that
 Continuous bias tape calculator
there isn’t any scaling of the pattern. Don’t select Fit to page or
 How to make and use piping
Shrink Oversized Pages. You can use the arrows under the preview
on the right to see all of the pages.
Read through all of these instructions before starting
You can print the lot including the pattern and instructions, or if
your project and cutting your fabric. you want, just print the pattern pieces at the end of these
instructions.
Materials needed
On the first pattern sheet is a test square. This box should measure 1
 Main Bag – ½ yard
 Lining – ½ yard inch square. If yours is wildly different you will need to check your
 Contrast/tab fabric – piece 22 inches square printer options to make sure the pages are not being resized.
 ShapeFlex 101 interfacing – 1.75 yards
 Fusible fleece – piece 22 by 10 inches Need help with the pattern?
 Foam interfacing such as Flex Foam, or Bosal – piece 20 x 15 inches
 2 yards piping (or make your own) You can find helpful tutorials on how to download, print and
 1 x 12 inch zipper assemble PDF sewing patterns here:
 Optional - Small 1 inch twist lock
 Ready made 22 inch bag handles How to download and print a PDF sewing pattern
 Optional – Fray Check
 Optional – Wonder Tape or basting tape How to print and assemble a PDF sewing pattern
 Recommended - Wonder Clips

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When assembled your pattern should look like this Watch the video tutorial

This tutorial is available as a video as well as the step by step written

instructions.

Watch the video tutorial by clicking the image below.

To access the video tutorial for this

pattern click the picture below

Directions

All seams are ½” unless otherwise noted

RST - Right Sides Together Or find it on YouTube here -

WST – Wrong Sides Together
https://youtu.be/wp3UTE_KyCk

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Cutting and interfacing Zipper panels
 Cut 2 panels 2.5 inches by 11 inches in outer fabric
NOTE – you may also cut out your fabric pieces and interface  Cut 2 panels 2.5 inches by 11 inches in lining fabric
them as you go.  Cut 2 pieces of SF101 interfacing 2 inches by 10 inches
 Cut 2 pieces of SF101 interfacing 1.75 inches by 11 inches
Use your full circular pattern piece to cut:
 Cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 1.5 inches by 11 inches
 2 outer main section (contrast fabric)
 2 x lining main section
Zipper pulls
 1 or 2 lining pockets (optional)
Cut 1 x fabric 4 inches wide by 6 inches
 4 pieces of ShapeFlex SF101 interfacing
 2 x foam stabiliser Piping
Prepare 2 yards of piping
Use the lower section of the pattern to cut:
 4 x outer pocket pieces Let’s start to sew
 4 x SF 101 interfacing pieces.
Mark center at the top and bottom of all 4 circular pieces
Trim the seam allowance away from the lower part of the pattern and making sure any fabric design is correctly oriented.
use that as a template to cut:
Apply the SF101 interfacing to the wrong side of the 2 main and 2
 2 pieces of fusible fleece. lining pieces. Set the lining pieces aside.

Bottom gusset
 Cut 1 x piece 19.25 inches by 4 inches in outer fabric
 Cut 1 x piece 19.25 inches by 4 inches in lining fabric
 Cut 2 x SF101 interfacing the same size.
 Cut 1 x piece of your foam stabilizer the same size
Trim away the top shaped section of the circular pattern at the trim
line shown. Set this aside, you will need it later.
Use the lower section of the pattern to cut 4 of your outer pocket
pieces and 4 x SF 101 interfacing pieces. Apply the interfacing to all
4 pocket pieces.

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Trim the seam allowance away from the lower part of the pattern and Match 2 outer pocket pieces RST and sew along the inner curve at
use that as a template to cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece. Set the fleece the top with a ½ inch seam allowance.
aside.

Sewing the outer pockets

Notch the seam along the curve and press well with WST.

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 Adding a twist lock

Adding a twist lock to the outer pockets of the bag is optional. Add
one on each side, just on one side, or skip altogether. Your design
choice.

Slide in one piece of the fusible fleece, adding it right next to the
stitching line and fuse it to what will be the front outer piece of your
pocket panel.

Repeat these steps to create a second pocket. Top stitching along

the curve is optional.
To add the twist lock, use the plate to mark on your outer pocket
where the plate needs to be placed. Make sure to get it right in the
center!

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Use your seam ripper to get started and then small pointed scissors
to cut out the right shape for the base plate. Seal the edges with
Fray Check.
Separate the plate and screw it back together sandwiching the fabric
in the middle. Make sure there aren’t any stray threads.
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Assembling the outer panels
Baste your pockets to the main bag outer panels, making sure to
have any fabric design orientation correct.
Center bottom of your pocket should match center bottom of the
contrast piece.
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Use the piece as a template to cut your Flex Foam (or equivalent) and Twist Lock
baste the foam stabilizer to the back of your piece, all around the If using a twist lock, fit the other half of the lock now, and then fuse
edge within the seam allowance. some fleece over the back of the prongs to protect the lining.

I like to use a zig zag stitch to neaten the edges and attach the foam For your second pocket
stabilizer in one pass.
Leave your second pocket as a single large pocket, or split it in half
with a line of stitching or add another twist lock – your design choice.

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Adding handles
Use the top part of the pattern as a template to decide on best
placement for your handles. This may vary depending on the size
and shape of your handles as well as your preference.
Make sure to keep them free of the outer seam allowances.
Stitch handles in place, either carefully by machine or using 6 strands
of embroidery floss and hand-stitching.
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You can adjust the stitch length on your machine and use the zipper
foot and hand wheel to sew if you don’t like to sew by hand. Use
some of the basting tape to keep the handles fixed in place as you
sew.
Bottom gusset
Cut your bottom gusset piece of fabric 19.25 inches long by 4 inches
wide. Apply SF101 interfacing to the wrong side.
Cut a piece of your foam stabilizer the same size and baste to the
wrong side of the fabric within the seam allowance
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Zipper panels Baste the zipper panels together along the long edge, matching the
two edges without the interfacing. (Use a long stitch length, these
Cut 2 zipper panels 2.5 inches wide by 11 inches long. stitches will be removed later.)

Cut 2 pieces of SF101 interfacing 2 inches wide by 10 inches long. Press the seam open.

Fuse to the back of the zipper panels, as shown, leaving ½ inch at

each end and at one long edge.

Cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 1.5 inches wide by 11 inches long.

Lift up the center seam allowance and slide the fusible fleece up
close to the stitching line. Fuse in place. Repeat for the other side.

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Apply a basting tape such as Wonder Tape, or a fabric glue to the Using a zipper longer than your panels makes things easier, just
long edges of your zipper tape. leave a little hanging off each end. We’ll trim those later.

Position the zipper on the wrong side of the zipper panels, lining up
the teeth exactly along the center seam.

Press in place carefully.

From the right side, stitch along each side of the zipper with a ¼
inch seam. Don’t sew right up close to the zipper. Remove basting
stitches.

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 the center and press. Fold in half along the length and press one
final time. All raw edges are enclosed.

Open the zipper a short way and trim off the excess zipper tape
taking care NOT to cut off the zipper pull.

You can add a little bar tack at the open end of the zipper to keep it
closed and prevent the zipper pull from coming off that trimmed end
accidently.

Zipper pulls
Cut a piece of fabric 4 inches wide by 6 inches long. Fold in half Stitch along each long side. Cut into two pieces 3 inches long.
along the length and press. Open and then press long edges in to

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Fold each piece in half and baste it on the right side of the zipper
panel, centered over the zipper tape.

Trim down the seam allowance in half, on the bottom gusset with the
foam.

Press both seam allowances towards the bottom gusset and top
stitch them in place through all layers, around ¼ inch down from the
Assembling the circular gusset seam.
Match the ends of the zipper panel with the ends of the bottom
gusset RST. Adding the piping (optional step)

Pin then stitch in place. You may use store bought piping or make your own. You will need
approximately 2 yards.

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I used ¼ inch wide cording to make my own piping and bias cut
strips 1 5/8th inches wide.

You may find these tutorials useful for this project:

 How to make continuous bias tape
 Continuous bias tape calculator
 How to make and use piping

For more piping tips

Jann at Newton Custom Interiors is a piping expert, I long for her

skills!

Check out her article on how to add cording to a pillow, she has a
very good video you can follow.
At 4:30 into the video she shows a great example of how to join your
piping.

Apply your piping around each of the main outer panels.
Keep in mind that the seam allowance is ½ inch so the piping
stitching line should follow this seam allowance.
If your piping has a ½ inch of fabric free, then you can simply line up
the raw edges as you sew around the circle.
Join your piping towards the bottom of the bag to make any seam
less noticeable.
Join your bias tape at a 45 degree angle, then snip your cording ends
to meet. Close the binding over and continue sewing from the point
you left off, until you meet and overlap where you started.

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 Join the gusset to the main panels

Fold the gusset to find the center top and center bottom and mark
with a pin or fabric marker.

Match center top and center bottom of the gusset to the

corresponding marks on the outer panels.

Pin or clip in place carefully.

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Your stitching lines will match, meaning the gusset may appear to be
just that little bit too short, compared to the outside edge of the
circular panel.

Turn the bag right side out and check that you have sewn close to
your piping.

Ease the two together as you sew so that the stitching line is flat at If necessary, re stitch in any areas that need to be a little tighter.
the ½ inch mark.

I found it best to sew with the circular side down.

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 Matching center top and bottom, pin and then stitch the gusset to
the second main panel of the bag.

Check again that you are happy with the stitching.

Trim both seam allowances in half to remove bulk. Leave bag with
wrong side facing out

OPEN UP THE ZIPPER NOW

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Adding pockets to the lining
You can add pockets of your choice to the lining of the bag.
These instructions include a half circle pocket, but you can add any slip
or zipper pockets according to what you plan to carry in your bag.
Baste the pocket to the bottom of the main lining panel, taking care
with any fabric design orientation.
If you want to create divisions, mark with a fabric marker and then
stitch from bottom to top according to the size of pockets you need.

To add a half circle pocket, use the circle of lining fabric you cut Repeat to create a pocket on the other lining panel if you like. (Extra
earlier and left without interfacing. fabric may be required for additional pockets.)

Fold it in half and press.

Top stitch across the folded edge.

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TIP – you can find a detailed video tutorial on how to add
a zipper pocket to any bag here.

How to add a zipper pocket to any purse pattern

Or add a simple slip pocket with this tutorial

How to add a simple slip pocket to your purse lining

Assemble the lining

Cut and interface a bottom gusset measuring 4 inches wide by 19.25

inches long.

Cut two zipper panels measuring 2.5 inches wide by 11 inches long.

Cut two pieces of interfacing 1.75 inches wide by 11 inches long.

With RST, match the bottom gusset to the zipper panels as shown.
Match the outer edges of the zipper panels leaving a gap in the
Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper panels, leaving
center where the folded edges are.
one long side free of interfacing, as before with the outer zipper
panels.
Stitch in place with a 5/8th inch seam.

Fold one long side of each panel ¾ inch wrong sides facing, along
Fold both seam allowances towards the bottom gusset and top stitch
the edge of the interfacing. Press.
in place ¼ inch from the previous stitching.

Stitch along the length ¼ inch from the folded edge. Repeat for
both pieces.

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 Match the center top and center bottom of the lining gusset piece to
one of the lining circular side panels.

Pin or clip in place around the entire perimeter. Stitch with a 5/8 th
inch seam allowance. You may need to clip into your seam
allowances to help the pieces fit together smoothly (see video about
how to ease the two pieces together).

Repeat for the other side until the lining resembles the outer of the
bag but without a zipper.

Trim the seam allowances in half. Turn the lining right sides out.
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Attach the lining to the main bag
With the main bag wrong sides out and the lining right sides out,
slide the bag inside the lining. Match up around the zipper.
Hand stitch the folded edge of the lining to the reverse of the zipper
tape taking care not to stitch all the way through so your stitches can
be seen from the outside.
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TIP – to prevent a baggy lining
Before sewing to the zipper, hand baste the seam allowance of the
lining in a few places to the seam allowance of the bag around the
top curve of the bag. This will keep the lining tight up into that
shape during use. See video for more details.
Turn the bag right side out and give it a final press. Congratulations,
your Roundabout bag is completed.
Thank you for downloading this pattern and tutorial. I hope you enjoyed
making this project and remember that I love to see what you made so do
upload your completed projects to the pattern page on Craftsy.
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 Keep up with all the latest news and sewing
projects at So Sew Easy.

We also have a really great sewing chat group where you can ask
questions, share your completed projects, and get 24 hr sewing inspiration.
It’s not just for So Sew Easy projects – you can chat about all sewing there,
whether a newbie just starting out, or an advanced and experienced sewer,
there’s something for everyone in the sewing chat group. Join us here.

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For the latest list of both free and paid patterns

available, pop on over to my designer page at
Craftsy.
This pattern graphic, the photos and the instructions are the design and property of
So Sew Easy. Please do not copy, publish, sell, redistribute or alter them in any way.
Please don’t print and give to your friends, or send it to anyone by email. Please do
not rebrand this work as your own and sell or give it away, even if altered. Please do
not load this file to your own site or a third party site.

This is intended for your personal use. If you would like to recommend these
instructions, please pass on the original download link at So Sew Easy. Thank you for
your understanding.

Usage – you ARE allowed to use this pattern to make things to sell on a small
handmade basis, such as for craft fairs and for your Etsy shop. If in any doubt about
restrictions that apply to this pattern, please ask.

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1 inch
test
Cen
square

Approx
handle
placement

Tr
im
lin
e

So Sew Easy
Roundabout Bag
So-Sew-Easy.com

See directions for fabric cutting

Cen
 Keep pattern intact, cutting only around
the outer circumference to start. Later in
the process we will split the pattern and
nter remove seam allowances to use as
templates for other parts we need to cut.

Follow the cutting details in sequence

throughout the instructions provided.
The video can provide more information
Approx if needed.

handle
placement

e
lin
im
Tr
Grainline

nter