Unit 3: FABRIC DYEING PROCESS

1.1. Vocabulary (Từ vựng)

Penetration:thẩm thấu Vessel : bể chưa ;thùng chưa Exhaustion:tận trích

Absorption:hấp thụ Spoilage :lỗi Swelling :trương nở
Permanent :bền vĩnh viễn Levelness :đều (màu)

1.2. Reading Comprehension (Bài dịch)

Fabric Dyeing Process

"The process of applying color to fiber stock, yarn or fabric is called dyeing."
There may or may not be thorough penetration of the colorant into the fibers or
yarns.
The dyeing of a textile fiber is carried out in a solution, generally aqueous,
known as the dye liquor or dye bath. For true dyeing to have taken place, coloration
of fabric and absorption are important determinants.
Coloration: The coloration must be relatively permanent: that is not readily
removed by rinsing in water or by normal washing procedures. Moreover, the
dyeing must not fade rapidly on exposure to light.
Absorption: The process of attachment of the dye molecule to the fiber is one
of absorption: that is the dye molecules concentrate on the fiber surface. There are
four kinds of forces by which dye molecules are bound to the fiber:
1) Ionic forces
2) Hydrogen bonding
3) Vander Wals' forces and
4) Covalent chemical linkages
The Chemistry of the Dyeing Process: Exhaustion In any dyeing process,
whatever the chemical class of dye being used, heat must be supplied to the dye
bath; energy is used in transferring dye molecules from the solution to the fiber as
well as in swelling the fiber to render it more receptive. The technical term for this
process is exhaustion.
Levelness: An Important Quality. Evenness of dyeing, known as levelness is
an important quality in the dyeing of all forms of natural and synthetic fibers. It
may be attained by the control of dyeing conditions.
Machinery and Equipment: Modern dyeing machines are made from
stainless steels. Steels containing up to 4% molybdenum are favored to withstand
the acid conditions that are common. A dyeing machine consists essentially of a
vessel to contain the dye liquor, provided with equipment for heating, cooling and
circulating the liquor into and around the goods to be dyed or moving the goods
through the dye liquor. The kind of machine employed depends on the nature of the
goods to be dyed. Labor and energy costs are high in relation to total dyeing costs:
the dyers aim is to shorten dyeing times to save steam and electrical power and to
avoid spoilage of goods.

Request: Translate in to Vietnamese

QUÁ TRÌNH NHUỘM
 quá trình đưa màu sắc lên sợi hoặc vải gọi là quá trình nhuộm màu
 có thể có hay ko sự thẩm thấu chất màu vào sợi
 việc nhuộm sợi dệt dc thực hiện trong dung dịch ,thường là dung
dịch nước
 để nhuộm thực sự diễn ra,sự hấp thụ là yếu tố quyết định quan
trọng
 màu sắc: màu sắc phải tương đối lâu dài ,ko dễ dàng loại bỏ bằng
cách rửa trong nc.hơn nữa ko được phai nhanh khi tiếp xúc với ánh
sáng
 hấp thụ :quá trình gắn phân tử thuốc nhuộm vào sợi :đó là quá trình
gắn phan tử thuốc nhuộm trên bề mặt sợi .có 4 loại lực mà phân tử
thuốc nhuộ gắn trên bề mặt sợi
1. lực ion
2. lực liên kết hydro
3. lự liên kết vandet van
4. liên kết cộng hóa trị
 tính chất hóa học của quá trình nhuộm :tận trích trong bất kì quy
trình nhuộm nào ,dùng hóa chất nào đều phải dc cung cấp cho bể
nhuôm,năng lượng dc dùng cho quá trình chuyển các phân tử từ
dung dịch sang sợi cũng như làm trương nở sợi để nó dễ tiếp nhận
hơn
 đều (màu):thông số quan trọng,sự đòng đều của thuốc nhuộm dc
gọi chất lượng quan trọng trong nhuộm các sợi tự nhiên và hóa
học.nó có thể đạt dc bằng cách kiểm soát đk nhuộm máy móc thiết
bị,máy nhuộm hiện dại dc làm từ thép ko gỉ,thép có chứa
4%molyden dc sử dụng trong đk axit .
 máy nhuộm bao gồm chủ yếu là 1 thùng chưa thuốc nhuộm dc
cung cấp để thiết bị để sấy ,làm mát,lưu thông thuốc nhuộm vào
sợi,loại máy dc sử dụng phụ thuộc vào bản chất loại sợi .chi phí
nhân công và năng lượng cao hơn so với chi phí nhuộm. mục đích
của thợ nhuộm là rút ngắn thời gian nhuộm để tiết kiệm hơi nc và
năng lượng điện và tránh làm hỏng sợi.
1.3. Grammar (Cấu trúc ngữ pháp chính)

- The process of applying color to fiber stock, yarn or fabric is called dyeing
- Evenness of dyeing, known as levelness is an important quality in the dyeing of
all forms of natural and synthetic fibers

1.4. Speaking skill (Hội thoại)

Three student join in one group. Each group discuss about one of topics bellow:
Where do dyeing process place in the textile supply chain
What kind of chemical bond lead play the most importance role to color
fastness
List all of dyeing machine that you know
What parameter which use to evaluate the dyeing quality

1.5. Exercises (Bài tập)

Dyes and Pigments
Over 80 dyers worldwide are registered with the American Association of
Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), and almost 350 trademarked dyes are
registered with this association. Some trademarked dyes have as many as 40
variants. Over 7,000 dyes and pigments are currently produced worldwide. Natural

dyes, such as indigo, have been known since before history, whereas synthetic dyes
have gained prominence largely since World War I (Apsell, 1981).
A dye is an organic chemical that is able to absorb and reflect certain
wavelengths of visible light. Pigments are microscopic, water-insoluble particles
that are either incorporated into the fiber at the time of production or are bonded to
the surface of the fiber by a resin. Some fiber types, such as olefins, are not easily
dyed and therefore are often pigmented
Based on the desired end product effects, the fiber substrate, and the type of
dye used, there are more than twelve different application categories for textile
dyes. Very few textiles are colored with only one dye, and even a simple dye may
be put through eight to ten processing steps to achieve a final dye form, shade, and
strength. When all these factors are considered, it becomes apparent that it is
virtually impossible to dye textiles in a continuous method; that is, dyeing separate
batches of fibers or textiles is the rule rather than the exception. This color
variability has the potential to be very significant in forensic fiber comparisons.
Dyes can be used on vegetable, animal or man made fibers only if they have
affinity to them. Textile dyes include acid dyes, used mainly for dyeing wool, silk
and nylon and direct or substantive dyes, which have a strong affinity for cellulose
fibers. Mordant dyes require the addition of chemical substances, such as salts to
give them an affinity for the material being dyed. They are applied to cellulose
fibers, wool or silk after such materials have been treated with metal salts. Sulfur
dyes, used to dye cellulose, are inexpensive, but produce colors lacking brilliance.
Azoic dyes are insoluble pigments formed within the fiber by padding, first with a
soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base. Vat dyes, insoluble in
water, are converted into soluble colorless compounds by means of alkaline sodium
hydrosulfite. These colorless compounds are absorbed by the cellulose, which are
subsequently oxidized to an insoluble pigment. Such dyes are colorfast. Disperse
dyes are suspensions of finely divided insoluble, organic pigments used to dye such
hydrophobic fibers as polyesters, nylon and cellulose acetates.
Reactive dyes combine directly with the fiber, resulting in excellent color fastness.
The first ranges of reactive dyes for cellulose fibers were introduced in the mid-
1950.

THUỐC NHUỘM VÀ BỘT MÀU

Hơn 80 thợ nhuộm trên toàn thế giới đã đăng kí với hiệp hội các nhà hóa học và
nhuộm màu(AATCC) của mỹ và gần 350 nhã hiệu thuốc nhuộm đăng kí với hiệp
hội này.một số thuốc nhuộm nhãn hiệu có tói 40 biến thể .hơn 7000 thuốc nhuộm
và sắc tố hiện đang sản xuất trên toàn thế giới .thuốc nhuộm tự nhiên ,ví dụ như
chàm đã dc biết đến trong lịch sử trong khi thuốc nhuộm tổng hợp trỏ nên nổi bật
kể từ thế chiến 1
Thuốc nhuộm là 1 hóa chất hữu cơ có khả năng hấp thụ và phản xạ bước sóng nhất
định của ánh sáng khả kiến ,các sắc tố là các hạt siêu nhỏ ,ko tan trong nc,dc tích
hợp vào sợi trong quá trình sản xuất hoặc dc liên kết vs bề mặt sợi bằng nhựa.1 số
loại sợi ko dễ nhuộm như olefin ko dễ nhuộm và thường bị nám
Dựa trên các sản phẩm cuối cùng mong muốn ,chất nền sợi và loại thuốc nhuộm dc
sử dụng có hơn 12 loại ứng dụng khác cho thuốc nhuộm, rất ít hang dệt chỉ dc dệt
bằng 1 loại thuốc nhuộm và thậm chí 1 loại thuốc nhuộm đơn giản có thể thực hiện
đén 10 bước xử lí để đạt dc dạng nhuộm sắc thái và độ bền.hầu như ko thể nhuộm
vải theo pp liên tục nghĩa là nhuộm các lô sợi hoặc hàng dệt 1 cách riêng biệt là
quy tắc chứ ko phải ngoại lệ.sự biến đổi màu sắc có khả năng đáng kể trong so sánh
sợi
Thuốc nhuộm có thể sử dụng trên sợi thực vật ,đọng vật khi sử ái lực tác đông đến
chúng .thuốc nhuộm dệt bao gồm thuốc nhuộm axit dc sử dụng chủ yếu để nhuộm
len tơ tằm và nylon và thuốc nhuộm trực tiếp có ái lực mạnh vs cenllulozo
Thuốc nhuộm hoạt tính kết hợp trực tiếp với sợi tạo ra độ bền màu sắc cao.các loại
thuốc nhuộm hoạt tính đầu tiên cho sợi cenllulo dc giới thiệu giữa năm 1950.
Answer the question below
What is dye?
How many categories of textile dyes?
Why dye can be use for textile material?
What kind of dyes can be use for wool?
When the reactive dye were fist introduce?

Fill in the missing words in the gaps

Introduction of each dye, have introduced the color ..fastness.. ..... of the dye
series. The choice of ... dyeing process.... must choose according to the product
requirements for color fastness series dyes, and also similar to the color fastness of
the dye color juxtaposition. For example, the color fastness of the dye itself can
only reach 2 to 3 or even 1 to 2, no matter how good the additives and ..dye............
can not dye 4 to 5 color fastness. , The color fastness of the dye depends mainly on
the ..binding force......... between the dye and the fiber, if the ....bond........ between
the two is not securely much force can not make them solid combination improved,
even after the fixing also stand up to washing, friction and external factors such as
damage.

fastness dye bond

dyeing process binding force

1.6. Summarization (Tóm tắt nội dung bài học)

Factors that Affect Dyeing

1.7. Homework (Bài tập về nhà)

Several factors affect the color fastness of textiles

Color fastness of textiles (referred to as color fastness), dyed or printed
fabrics, subjected to external factors in the use or processing (extrusion, friction,
washing, rain, sunlight, light, sea water immersion, saliva impregnated, water
stains, perspiration, etc.) under the action of the degree of fading is an important
indicator of the fabric. Good color fastness of textiles in post-processing or use of
the process is not easy to fade; poor color fastness, appears to fade a little color, or
staining, resulting in a lot of trouble.
Daily sampling and consumer complaints, the most common color fastness
of textiles issue the following aspects:
1) Light fastness failed. Coat clothing wearing by the site of sunlight faded
or discolored (usually parts of the back and shoulders), not exposed to irradiation of
the same color or light change, resulting in the original color color shades, can no
longer continue to use.
2) Washable fastness, color fastness to washing and dry cleaning resistance
and color fastness unqualified. Advanced silk clothing, wool clothing, cotton
clothing most likely there are problems in this area.
3) Color fastness to rubbing unqualified. Textiles during use, because
different parts of the product by the degree of friction, the degree of fade. Such as
T-shirt, elbow sleeves, collar and armpit is the most easy to fade. In addition, the
hips and knees of the pants easy to fade.
4) The color fastness to perspiration failed. Wearing summer clothes or
personal underwear, sweat impregnated fade.
Poor color fastness fade in the process of wearing, it will affect other
clothing worn on the body, or when washed with other clothing contaminated with
other clothing, affect the appearance and wearability; On the other hand, the color
fastness is good or bad but also directly related to human health and safety. Poor
color fastness products on the dye molecules and heavy metal ions may be
absorbed into the body through the skin against skin and even damage to health.
The factors that affect the color fastness of textiles of internal and external
factors. Refers to the dye and fiber as strong internal factors, external factors refers
to the products in the course of external factors imposed by external forces or
environmental conditions. External factors beyond the control of, and therefore
producers must strive to improve the color fastness of the product itself.

Answer the questions

What the light fastness is?
Where is palace on clothing that color fastness to rubbing normally occur ?
What are the disadvantages of the poor color fastness?
Which factors that influence on color fastness of textile?

1. Use the given words to write full sentences:

The fixing agent/ use / will greatly improve/ the fastness/ the dye
The dye/ must choose/ according to/ product requirements/ color fastness
The fixing agent/ use/ great/ improve/ the fastness of the dye
A dye/ an organic chemical/ that/ able to absorb/ and/ reflect certain
wavelengths/ visible light

2. What is the main idea of each section?

 
a)  
The different forms of a combination of different kinds of dyes and fibers,
bond securely different degrees. Type of dye is determined, and then select the
dyeing properties of the dyes. For example, wool fabric, the same strong acid dyes,
domestic than imported strong acid dyes performance, only the color is not good,
its combination of strong as the latter is not as good; same domestic strongly acidic
dye, different dyes wool fastness and color brightness also different. With a weak
acid dye color fastness of dyed wool yarn than the strong acid dyes; cotton fabric or
regenerated cellulose fiber fabric, either with direct dyes can also be reactive dyes;
weak acid of silk fabrics can be used dyes, certain reactive dyes, but also with the
individual direct dyes.
 
b)
The type of dye to render the type of the dye rate, and the type of dyeing
conditions, the same rate of the dye is different. Therefore, the choice of dye to be
considered on the transfection rate, otherwise dye will appear between the
competing dyeing phenomenon in which a dye in advance on transfection position
occupied fiber dyed only on the surface of the fiber, resulting in the other dye to not
uniformly to form a solid bond with the fibers in a later step or daily use was first
destroyed. This is why some colors fade was showing a different color to the
original color. Thus dye must be used under the same conditions, similar uptake
rate of the dye in the fiber, so the next step development of technology is also very
useful.

c)
In order to make the product plump and soft feel, to join the softener
processing. Softener, cationic, anionic, non-ionic and organic silicon. Softener
Finally, in a step after the end of the dyeing process, dyes and softeners further
reaction, it is possible to reduce the color fastness, especially acid dyes using a
silicone softener, even during the softening treatment will be drained away part of
the dye , so that the color is slightly lighter. Thus, the amount of soft softener to be
just right, otherwise, not only feel tacky, but also affect the color.