Lecture-10

Introduction to Dyeing
 Dyestuff

Dyes are colored organic compounds that are used to impart color to
various substrates, including paper, leather, fur, hair, drugs, cosmetics,
waxes, greases, plastics and textile materials.

A Dye is a colored compound, normally used in solution, which is

capable of being fixed to a fabric.

The dye has a colour due to the presence of chromophore and its fixed
property to the acid or basic groups such as OH, SO3H, NH2, NR2, etc.

The polar auxochrome makes the dye water-soluble and binds the dye
to the fabric by interaction with the oppositely charged groups of fabric
structure.
Characteristics of Dye stuff

➢ Must contain chromophore groups.

➢ This chromophore groups may be different types.Example; -NO2, -
NH2, -CO-, -N=O etc.
➢ Must able of preparing dilute solution by dissolving water i.e.
solubility
➢ Must be power of entering dyestuff to fibre from dye bath i.e.
substantivity.
➢ Should have fastness property.
Classification of coloring matter/dyes/dyestuff
Dyestuffs are classified on different bases:
1. Source or origin
2. Physical form
3. Application form
4. Chemical form

A very common classification of the dyestuff is based on the source from

which it is made.
Accordingly the classification could be:

 Natural Dyes
 Synthetic Dyes
 Natural dyes

➢ Natural dyes are dyes or

colorants derived from plants,
invertebrates, or minerals.
➢ The majority of natural dyes are
vegetable dyes from plant
sources. E.g. roots, berries, bark,
leaves, and wood.
➢ Other organic sources include
fungi and lichens.
 Synthetic dyes

➢ Almost all the colors that you

see today are Synthetic dyes.
Synthetic dyes are used
everywhere in everything from
clothes to paper, from food to
wood. This is because they are
cheaper to produce, brighter,
more color-fast, and easy to
apply to fabric.

➢ E.g. Acid Dyes, Azo Dyes,

Basic Dyes, Mordant Dyes, etc
According to physical and application form
Application of dye according to fibre characteristics
Name of different dye and their application:

➢ Acid dye: Man made fibre (Nylon)

 Natural fibre (Silk, Wool)
➢ Direct dye: Man made fibre (Viscose)
 Natural fibre (Cotton)
➢ Vat dye: Man made cellulose fibre(Viscose)
 Natural fibre (Cotton, Silk, Wool)
➢ Disperse dye: Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Tri acetate, Di acetate.
➢ Basic dye: Jute, Acrylic.
➢ Reactive dye: Cotton, Wool, Silk, Viscose, Nylon.
➢ Sulphur dye: Cotton, Viscose.
➢ Mordant dye: Cotton, Wool, Silk
➢ Pigment: Cotton, Man made fibre.
➢ Mineral: Cotton, wool, silk.
 Pigment
Pigment is derived from word “pigmentum” means coloring matter.

The pigments, which are applied by means of binding agent. Such insoluble
colorants or pigments i.e. certain oxides presented a limit range of hues generally
of very fastness to light but of variable behavior towards other agent. The more
important criteria by which pigments are evaluated are fastness to light, heat,
solvent, acids, alkali and other chemical agencies.

Pigments are organic and inorganic materials which are practically insoluble in
medium in which they are incorporated.

Pigments are used almost 30,000 years ago. About 2000 BC natural ocher was
burnt sometime in mixture with manganese ore to produce red, violet and black
pigments for pottery.
Characteristics of pigments
➢ Pigments should have good covering power.
➢ Pigments should have freely mixing properties.
➢ Pigments should be chemically inert.
➢ Pigments should have good resistance to Acid.
➢ Pigments should be resistance to solvent.
➢ Pigments should have suitable brilliance , hardness, and stability.
➢ Pigments should have good wet , light, and abrasion resistance.
➢ Pigments should have good characteristics for excellent dispersion
including :
 Particle size and distribution
 Electrical charge
 Specific gravity
 Purity and crystalline structure
 Condition of Precipitation
 Should be applied to all fibre
 Should be cheap.
Difference between dye & pigment
 Dyeing

The process by which a textile material is changed physically or

chemically so that it looks colorful is called Dyeing.

The objective of dyeing is to produce uniform colorations of a

substrate usually to match a pre-selected color.

The color should be uniform throughout the substrate and be of a

solid shade with no unlevelness or change in shade over the whole
substrate.
 Theory of dyeing
The dyeing process is essentially a distribution process. The dye is distributed
over at least two phase systems; the dye bath and textile mtls. When equilibrium
dyeing is reached, the following subsidary equilibria are established:

Dye dispersed in the dyebath: Most of the dyes in solution are in molecular
and partially ionised state or exist in the form of ionic micells.

Dye in the diffusion layer: Dye molecules then come into the diffusion layer of
the fibre and enter into it.

Dye in the electrical double layer: All textile fibres when immersed in water
or aqueous solution, acquire an electrical potential after reffered to as Beta
potential. The covalent and hydrogen bond forces which anchor the dye to the
fibre are of short range of the order of 10A to 50A. The electrostatic forces have
a range about 1000a where there is a mutual repulsion between the fibre and the
dye ion, an extremely long time will be necessary before the inherent vibration
of the molecules in the solution.
Dye at the fibre surface: Increase of
temp. helps to accelerate the migration of
dye molecules to the surface of the fibre.

Dye in the fibre: Dye diffused in the fibre.

Owing to the high temp. there is always an
abundance of dye stuff molecules in the
vicinity of the fibre and agitation has little
effect upon the time of half dyeing.

Dyes physically and chemically bond

with polymer: The following factor are
responsible for the anchoring of the dye
molecules to the fibre:
 Ionic links; for protein fibre.
 Hydrogen bonds; for cellulosic fibre.
 Covalent bonds; between carbon attoms
 Physical forces.
Successive stage in the dyeing:

Dye dispersed in the dye bath

(Convective diffusion)
Dye in the diffusion layer
(Molecular diffusion)
Dye in the electrical double layer
(Absorption)
Dye absorbed on the fibre surface
(Diffusion)
Dye diffused in the fibre
(Fixation)
Dye physically or chemically bond in the fibre.
Principles of Dyeing

The application of color can be achieved by a number of methods,

but the most common three methods are-

1. Exhaust dyeing(batch)
2. Continuous (padding) and
3. Printing method.
 Exhaust or Batch dyeing
➢ In exhaust dyeing the dye, which is wholly or partially soluble in the dyebath, is
transported to the fibre surface by the motion of the dye liquor or by motion of
the substrate being dyed.
➢ The dye is adsorbed onto the fibre surface and ideally diffuses into the whole of
the fibre.
➢ Depending upon the dye being used, the interactions between the dye and the
fibre can be either chemical or physical.
➢ Exhaust dyeing is usually conducted using dilute solutions of dyes, normally
termed long liquor dyeing, and can involve liquor to substrate ratios from 8:1 up
to 30:1.
 Continuous dyeing
➢ Continuous dyeing is a process whereby dyeing the fabric and fixation
of the dye are carried out continuously in one simultaneous operation.
➢ This is traditionally accomplished using a production line system
where units are assembled into lines of consecutive processing steps;
this can include both pre- and post-dyeing treatments.
➢ Fabric is usually processed in open width, so care must be taken not to
stretch the fabric.
 Printing

Printing involves localized coloration. This is usually achieved by

applying thickened pastes containing dyes or pigments onto a fabric
surface according to a given colour design.
Factors influencing rate of absorption in dyeing process/
Dyeing auxilaries:

➢ Temp.: 80-1000c
➢ Time: Time should reduce and uniform.
➢ Acids/Alkali: In case of acid, it will be disposed and in case of Alkali it
will be deactive. So PH control, otherwise faulty dyeing.
➢ Electrolysis: Higher electrolytes and higher absorption. For salt,
absorption will increased.
➢ M:L ratio: 1:6 – 1:15.
➢ Dyeing auxilaries:

 Wetting agent: Lissapol

 Detergent: Lissapol, soap.
 Levelling agent: Lyo-col.
 Liquoring agent.
 Emulsifier: Emulsion, Glycosin.
 Carrier: Diphenyl; used as substantive swelling agent.
 Defoaming agent: Deformer.
 Antimildew agent: ZnCl2
 Softening agent: Parafin wax.
 Reducing agent: SnCl2
 Stiffing agents: Resin, Melamine.
 Factors to be considered for dye & dyeing process

Dye selection depends on:

Hue: Hue means the name of color i.e. blue, green, pink. The hue is of great
importance. Usually a mixture of hue is required to produce the desired shade.

Shade: The meaning of shade is concentration. Usually, the depth of tone of

color is shade. If greater depth or conc. of shade, for this, greater dye exist in
fibre. So cost of dyeing is much. If too much depth of shade, affect on fastness
properties or stability of dyeing.
Example: Fastness to light of dyed fabric increased when depth of shade
increase even fastness to washing decreased when depth of shade increase.
 3% shade: 3 gm dye in 100 gm fibre.
 5% shade: 5 gm dye in 100 gm fibre.
Brightness: It express how bright or dull the object is. Some dye is
naturally bright i.e. Basic dye and some dye is dull shade.
Cost: We have to notice to cost during the selection of dyeing procedure.
Some dyes are cheap e.g. Acid dye and some dyes are very costly e.g.
Reactive dye, Vat dye.
Fastness required: Resistance of mtl. to change in any of its color
characterstics.
Environmental pollution: The such dyes are applied so that it does not
pollute environment.
Condition of application: Pigment dye is applied in continuous m/c.
which application method facilities. But we have discontinuous m/c.
Availability: Dye must be available in dyeing factory.