Cost/Quality optimization

in Textile/Garment
Processing

Dhirendra Gautam
Marketing Manager – Exhaust Solutions – India
Head Commercial Marketing – Textile Dyes - India

Textile Effects
Today‘s Challenges for Textile Mills

Fiber cost Dyeing mill

Higher cotton costs

Production costs

Higher costs for energy and water

Retailers
Dyeing mill
Higher fastness requirements
Lower prices or commission fees

Competitors

Need for differentiation

Textile Effects
Challenges for Today’s processor

CURRENT SITUATION IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

ƒ High re-dyeing rate

ƒ Low production
ƒ High production costs
ƒ High quality rejections
ƒ Insufficient Fastness level
ƒ Problems in supplying on time

Textile Effects
 Future
¾Enhancing reproducibility reduce cost of non conformance
¾Achieving deeper shade depths fulfill market trends
¾Optimizing wash off properties water/energy saving
¾Increasing Productivity Enhance Profit margins
¾Improving fastness properties Meets modern requirement
¾Fastness to repeated laundering
9Light fastness
9Perspiration light fastness
9Chlorine fastness
9Gas fading
9Oxidative bleach fastness
¾Meets Okeo Tex/GOTS Standards Shape the future

Textile Effects
How to optimize Cost & Quality

Supply at RIGHT COST

Supply at RIGHT QUALITY

Supply at RIGHT TIME

Textile Effects
COST? – Why we exceed

ƒ Re-dyeing
ƒ Low packing percentage
ƒ Low Top grade packing percentage
ƒ High processing cost
ƒ High water/energy consumption
ƒ In-efficient machine operations
ƒ Under loading/Small Batches
ƒ High processing time
ƒ Poor choice of processing route
ƒ Choice of wrong processing chemicals & dyes
ƒ Poor work practice & inefficient work force
ƒ Poor machine maintenance

Textile Effects
 Quality? – Why we fail

ƒ Un-level lot/listing/tailing/Center to selvedge/layering

ƒ Poor appearance/less solidity
ƒ In-sufficient fastness levels
ƒ Phototropism
ƒ Poor Quality assurance of incoming material
ƒ Poor selection of processing chemicals & dyes
ƒ Use of un standardized raw material
ƒ Low knowledge levels of what is available
ƒ Poor documentations
ƒ Too much conscious about cost/optical cost

Textile Effects
Some Hard Facts

Relative cost

250

200
4
150
2 3
100 RIGHT
FIRST
1
TIME
50

0 n g d ition pp ing
li 1a d ri
+ sam p + in g, st
ng ing ath) ye ING
Dyei e is OK) D y e
e b D
Y E
sha d s a m R ED
( (
Textile Effects
Some Hard Facts

Water/Steam/Electricity w.r.t. MLR

water consumption steam consumption electricity consumption

l/kg
kg/kg %
160 100
10
140 9 100
120 8 80
140
100 7
80 6 60
7 70
5
60 4 40
40 3
58
20 2 3.5 20
0 1
0 0

Bifunctional dyes LR 6:1

Conventional warm dyes, LR 10:1

Textile Effects
Process Cost Comparison

Rel. cost / meter

1.6
1.4
1.2
1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
Cold pad-batch Pad-dry-pad-steam
Exhaust 10:1 Exhaust 20:1
Textile Effects
Pad-batch or Pad-dry-pad-steam ?

Relative cost / meter

200
Pad-dry-pad-steam
160

120
100
80

40
Pad-batch
0
1000 m 2000 m 3000 m 4000 m 5000 m

Length of the batch (m)

Textile Effects
Monoreactive or Bi-reactive
Monoreactive dyes Bi-functional Dyes

R R1 R2

Hydrolysis Fixation Hydrolysis Fixation

25% 75% 25% 75%

OH OCell OH R2 CellO R2

Hydrolysis Fixation

25% 75%

OH OH OH OCell

Hydrolyzed dye : 25 % Hydrolyzed dye: : 6%

Fixed dye : 75 % Fixed dye (75 + 19) : 94 %

Textile Effects
Cost per meter difference between one and two passes
on washing range

140
1
R 120
e 100
c 2
l
o 80
a
s
t 60
t 3
i
s 40 4
v 5
e 20
1 pass 2 passes
0

Water / Energy Conventional

Investment dye
Bi functional
dye Labor cost
Laborato
ry
Dyes / Chemicals

Textile Effects
PES/CO – Continuous Dyeing

Textile Effects
Our Innovative offers
To optimize
Cost and Quality

Textile Effects
NOVACRON DYES
Process – color –Performance at premium levels

Textile Effects
NOVACRON FN-Reactive dyes with outstanding performance

Textile Effects
NOVACRON FN- Safe and short processes

Effectiveness

Range of dyestuffs based on modern bi-reactive chemistry

Robust reliable NOVACRON FN dyes achieve minimal shade variation even under
varying dyeing conditions .

Efficiency

Shorter dyeing process with good levelling ,low listing and tailing

Outstanding wash off properties

Work under low liquor ratio

Textile Effects
NOVACRON FN- Colour & Performance
ƒ Brand house and Retailers are increasingly developing their own
colour cards. New light sources are being created to ensure the
highest possible colour constancy.

ƒ Brilliancy and high fastness level are key attributes

ƒ Offer solutions for tight specifications in shade matching even under

different light sources.

ƒ Specially selected to fulfils modern fastness requirements include

perspiration-light,washing with oxidative bleaching agents (M&S
C10A)

ƒ Outstanding light Fastness and compatibility

ƒ Right First Time with Right Every Time

Textile Effects
RIGHT FIRST TIME
Only the right dyestuff with right
system ensures

BLIND DYEING

Textile Effects
HIGH IQ- Lasting color
Lasting color
• Lasting Color has been launched as one of five
effects under the umbrella of High IQ ™
• High IQ is the first comprehensive global
branding program for textile colors and effects
• High IQ stands for Innovation and Quality
• Lasting Color defines a test protocol to
guarantee color retention after 20 home
launderings

Original performance
after 20 washes
Textile Effects
NOVACRON FN- Lasting color

Vibrant colours stay bright after repeated washing

Rich, deep colours retain their appearance after
numerous washes
Garments retain their new ,attractive look for much
longer
High quality received by the customer

Textile Effects
 Brilliant long lasting red dye
NOVACRON® Brilliant Red FN-3GL is a state-of-the-art brilliant red dyestuff with the highest
fastness level available on the market fulfilling even the most stringent requirements.

Outstanding fastness levels

light-fastness …for pale/medium

shades

perspiration light-fastness …for

sportswear

chlorine-fastness …for home

laundering

wash-fastness …for all washing

conditions

Textile Effects
NOVACRON S/W

To,
Win
Over
Non-achievable
Depth &
Economy in
Reactive
Textile Effects
NOVACRON S/W
ƒ Unmatched build-up very deep shades
ƒ High fixation rate Excellent washing-off
ƒ Medium affinity Excellent washing-off
behavior
ƒ Compact flexible molecules Good diffusion and
washing-off
New state-of-the-

New state-of-the-art
Colors depths

Color depths
art

Deep Medium Pale

CIBACRON S
Textile Effects
NOVACRON Black dyes - Segmentation

new state-of-the-art
RD

5 Super Black Super

4 Deep Black Black
W-NN
G/R
3
W-HF

Slide 17 of Textile
19 Effects
Novacron FN/S/W - Fastness

ƒ Except heavy chlorine fastness Innovative Novacron

FN/S/W all round fastness comparable to vat dyes
ƒ Highest Light fastness
ƒ Washing fastness even at 95°C
ƒ Water fastness
ƒ Pool water fastness
ƒ Oxidative Bleach fastness
ƒ Perspiration fastness
ƒ Combined effect of perspiration & light fastness
ƒ Crocking fastness
ƒ Repeated washing fastness

Textile Effects
NOVACRON® LS
Balancing the act – water&salt relation

Ecology

Reproducibility

Performance

Textile Effects
NOVACRON® LS
Balancing the act – water & salt relation

ƒ The state of the art NOVACRON LS dyes with all new

refreshing look are a compact range of real low salt dyes

Special features include

9 Superior environmental profile in exhaust dyeing
9 Level dyeing performance even on most critical
substrates
9 Above expectation Right First Time & Right Every
Time performance

Textile Effects
NOVACRON® LS - Ecology

ƒ Reduced cost of dyeing due to lower salt consumption

ƒ Reduced salt load on effluent

ƒ Less cost of effluent treatment

ƒ Lower transport and stock cost

Textile Effects
NOVACRON® LS - Reproducibility

ƒ Low influence of liquor ratio

ƒ Excellent lab to bulk reproducibility
ƒ Unique reproducibility for body and trims

Textile Effects
NOVACRON LS - Performance

ƒ Level dyeing performance even on difficult substrates

ensures endurance

9 Ideal and similar exhaustion and fixation rates

9 High compatibility of dyes
9 Excellent fastness properties

Textile Effects
NOVACRON NC The new generation of reactive dyes

Earth tones made easy

Textile Effects
 Yello
w

Dye selection
today

Red

Blue

Textile Effects
 Yello
w

Dye selection
tomorow

Red

Blue

Textile Effects
 Yello
w
NC

Dye selection
tomorrow

Olive
N
NC Brown
NC

Grey
NC

Blue A Colpoca tool will be available

C-D
Textile Effects
NOVACRON NC The new generation of reactive dyes

Earth tones made easy

ƒ The new Non Contrasting and highly innovative dyes range used to
dye difficult shades with higher runability and better reproducibility.
NOVACRON NC dyes offer the broadest possible end-use flexibility
and can be applied on any cellulosic fabric and cellulosic blend.

ƒ Outstanding fastness level and satisfying the most stringent

customer requirements.

ƒ Excellent color retention, suitable for High IQ® Lasting color

ƒ Increased productivity by reducing complex processes , NOVACRON

NC dyes offer a reliable alternative to vat dyes

ƒ Much lower effluent load and water treatment cost. No need for
sodium silicate by pad batch or high amount of salt by Pad dry steam.

Textile Effects
Non Contrasting
NOVACRON NC reactive dyes

- Patented chemistry and patented concept

- Based on FT chemistry, with 2-3 reactive groups
- Fast to light (ISO, AATCC 16 E, 60AFU)
- Fast to wet light and perspiration light (Nike/Adidas)
- Fast to nitrogen oxide (gas fading) and ozon
- Fast to chlorine (20 mg/l)
- Fast to repeated US home laundering (Color Bond, etc.)
- Fast to peroxide (oxidative bleach damage, Marks & Spencer C10A,)
- Non photochromic
- Homogeneous level of affinity, highly compatible
- Outstanding level of reproducibility
- Suitable for dyeing pale to dark shades
- Suitable for all CPB and continuous dyeing processes

Textile Effects
Huntsman SMART PREP on softflow machine

ƒ 100% CO single jersey; liquor ratio 6:1 ƒ B Neutralizing / after clearing

ƒ A Peroxide bleach ƒ 2.0 ml/l INVATEX® AC
ƒ 2.5 G/l Albafluid ® P
ƒ 0.5-1.0 g/l ULTRAVON® RW
ƒ 0.5 ml/l CLARITE® 3X ƒ C Peroxide removal
ƒ 3.8 ml/l NaOH 38° Bé ƒ 0.5 ml/l INVAZYM® CAT-I
ƒ 5.0 ml/l H2O2 35%

Textile Effects
Innovative process with NOVACRON warm
dyes on soft flow with 100% stock tank

Saves water, energy and process time = cuts costs

ƒ 100% CO single jersey; liquor ratio 5:1 ƒ E Alkali (dosing)
ƒ D Dye liquor ƒ x % soda ash
ƒ 0.960 % NOVACRON® Yellow FN-2R ƒ y % caustic
ƒ 5.600 % NOVACRON® Red FN-R
ƒ 0.019 % NOVACRON® Blue FN-R ƒ F z ml/l acetic acid
ƒ 1.5 g/l ALBAFLUID® P ƒ G Soap
ƒ 1.0 g/l Albatex® AD ƒ 2.0 g/l ERIOPON® R LIQ
ƒ 80 g/l salt

Textile Effects
 Black Shade
Loading to Unloading
Just in
5 hrs

Textile Effects
TERASIL W/WW - Innovation in polyester dyeing

High wet fast, High performance dyes for polyester dyeing

Textile Effects
7 reasons for growing demand for washfast PES dyes

• Multi colored designs with contrasting colors

• Growing popularity of microfibers

• Increase use of finishing agents

• More and more PES / CEL blends

• More and more PES / Elastomere blends

• Health concerns

• Fashion houses going for safer requirements

Textile Effects
Good wash fastness – What‘s that?

Cause for wash fastness problems:

presence of traces of dyes on fabric surface due to

- dyes which resisted reduction clearing

- thermomigration from fiber inside to surface

Textile Effects
Terasil WW: A new standard

Terasil WW are not sensitive to the effect of finishes

ƒ Many finish recipes and softeners make washfastness of disperse dyes

worse.

ƒ The responsibles are solvents or monomeres with dye solubilizing power,

used in softeners/ finish formulations.

ƒ Terasil WW dyes are much less sensitive to this effect than other washfast-
and commodity dyes.

A big advantage of Terasil WW for easy care finish

Textile Effects
Dyeing PES/CEL blends with TERASIL WW & Novacron C
Outstanding washfastness without reduction clearing !!!

A) Dyeing of PES/CO with conventional disperse and reactive dyes

Dyeing first the PES component with disperse dyes by pad-thermosol followed by pad-steam &
reduction clear to obtain the required fastness level, then dyeing the cotton component
with reactive dyes by pad-dry-pad-steam

150 150

100 100
50 50

Relative production Relative production

cost A) cost B)

B) One bath dyeing of PES/CO with TERASIL WW and NOVACRON C dyes by pad-dry-
thermosol-pad-steam without reduction clearing
Less water, energy and
chemicals consumption,
easier shade planning, huge
reduction in production costs
and quicker delivery time

Textile Effects
 Terasil® WW – A new standard
In a nutshell
• Terasil
WW range achieves a level of washfastness, previously only obtained w
a few expensive dibenzodifuranone red dyes. High fastness under all washing
conditions, including severe AATCC II A. One range suits the whole world.

• Terasil WW reds achieve this outstanding level at a much lower cost than
dibenzodifuranone red dyes

• Terasil WW range offers a broad range of shades with equally high fastness .
Not only reds !

• Terasil WW dyes, in many cases, do not need reduction clear in order to achieve
the high washfastness required. An important factor in productivity increase
and process cost reduction. This is particularly true in continuous
PES/CEL dyeing.

• Terasil WW are ideal partners to sophisticated resin finishes, being insensitive

to extraction power of resin formulations.

Textile Effects
TERASILW-EL

Reliable process , outstanding performance

Trouble-free processing of Polyester/Elastane blends

With our new Innovation Products

TERASIL W-EL

Textile Effects
Background

PES/EL articles are growing in

popularity. However ,
processing is still not
straightforward and problems
remain :
ƒ Loss stretch
ƒ Fabrics snagging
ƒ Poor fastness/apperance

We have solution now .

Textile Effects
Process & performance

Processing of polyester/elastane is often a compromise.

It is essential to maintain the characteristics of the fabric and
to meet the expections of retailers and brand in terms of
performance.

W e have Solutions……

TERASIL W-EL
Trouble free processing of polyester/elastane blends

Textile Effects
TERASIL W-EL

Reliable process

Minimum elastane damage

Robust to everyday processing

variation

Excellent exhaustion of Terasil

W-EL dyes

Very good wash fastness with

Terasil W-EL dyes

Now you can process Polyester/ elastane blends safely

Textile Effects
TERASIL W-EL

Reliable products

Excellent exhaustion in 45 min

at 125

Minimum temp sensitivity

Very good wash fastness

And achieve good wash fastness properties

Textile Effects
HUNTSMAN Research Focus On Wool

ƒ Wool Protection

ƒ Environmental Performance

ƒ Reproducibility/ Productivity/Cost

ƒ Application Simplicity

ƒ Product Quality
Our Innovation
ƒ End Use Performance
Your success
Textile Effects
LANASOL®/ LANASOL CE® dyes

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE Dyes for Wool

Dyes with highest wet fastness properties

Metal free alternatives for dark shades

ƒ Replacement of chrome dyes

ƒ Replacement for cheap “cotton reactive “Dyes”, misused on wool

ƒ Metal free alternatives to 1:2 MCD

ƒ Same fastness level can be achieved without wash-off after dyeing

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE Dyes for Wool

ƒ Metal free reactive dye

ƒ Especially developed for wool dyeing

ƒ Highest wet fastness properties

ƒ Especially designed for deep shade dyeing

ƒ Best choice to replace after chrome dyes

ƒ Recommended by EU as Best Available Technology

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE Dyes

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE – Improved Dyeing
Procedure

Dyeing & After Treatment in One Bath

ƒ Significant saving of water, energy and time

ƒ Shorter dyeing time than chrome dyes

ƒ High productivity

ƒ More economical process

Textile Effects
Dyeing at Isoelectric Point

Textile Effects
Process comparison Lanasol CE vs. Chrome

Textile Effects
 System replacement
Total Cost Calculation
After Chrome against Chrome Free Lanasol System
CASE I CASE II
Machine: Carrier Dyeing Carrier Dyeing
Effective lot size in kg : 100.00 100.00
Liquor ratio 1:x : 20.00 20.00
Processes:
Dyeing : After Chrome Lanasol
Processing Time
Pretreatment/ hours : 0.29 0.29
After Chrome Hours : 4.77 4.12
Total process/ hours : 5.06 4.41
Dyestuff used: 0.00 0.00
% of After Chrome 5.00 4.00
Cost Elements
Fixcost p. kg : 0.32 0.28
Labour cost p.kg. : 1.35 1.17
Dyestuff cost p.kg : 12.50 13.48
Chemical cost p.kg Dyeing: 6.28 8.61
Water cost p.kg : 6.00 6.00
Steam cost p.kg : 13.15 8.98
Electr.cost p.kg : 2.53 2.20
Water Consumption:
Water Litres/Batch: 10000.00 10000.00
Water Litres p.kg: 100.00 100.00
Water Liters/kg including redyeing: 115.00 110.00
Production:
Eff.No.of lots p.week: 32 37
Effective kg p. week: 3,200 3,700
Redyeing Rate 15.00 10.00
Total Costs:
TOTAL COST p.kg : 42.13 40.72
TOTAL COST p.kg including Redyeing : 48.45 44.79
Textile Effects
Feed back from the industry

Better wool quality

ƒ Higher spinning yield

ƒ Less end breaks

ƒ Higher spinning speed

ƒ Higher yarn strength and elongation

ƒ Softer handle of the wool

ƒ No back washing necessary

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE dyes

Advantages for the dyer

ƒ Bright metal-free High value for end product

ƒ Bi-functional reactive dyes Better fastness

ƒ High degree of exhaustion High reproducibility

ƒ High degree of fixation High wet fastness

ƒ No after chrome process Easy color matching

ƒ Covalent bond with fiber Wool protection/ High strength

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE dyes

safety and environmental advantages

ƒ No handling of the carcinogenic dichromate by the workers

ƒ No heavy metal in the waste water

ƒ No metal content in the dyed material

ƒ No problems to fulfill the specifications required for the OEKO-

TEX 100 label

Textile Effects
LANASOL CE dyes

ƒ CE = Concern Environment

ƒ CE = Chrome Exchange

ƒ CE = Cost Effectiveness

Textile Effects
Thank You for your attention

Textile Effects