Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual it Contents Part A: OHV engines Vale clarances - checking and adjustment. a ‘Cam tollowers and pushrods - examination and renovation aa Sees eee ian 2 * ‘Camshaft anc camshaft bearings - examination and renovation .. 28 scene * arnehaf and ol pump vesat- rors is Carhaf tning gars, chan and cover -refting a2 Part B: OHC engine Connecting ods examination end renovation 25 Camshaft removal andrefiting (engin inca) © Cranchat and main beatings -rftsng 533 Camsha and tappets examination and renovation oe Crankshaft and main bearings removal 2. 32 Gomerat ing arvbet = rernovel and etting (engine ca = 59 Crankshaft ra and bgrend bearings -evamination and Gonos rod isons and ners «removal R ‘erovaton 24 Gransaf ond man besange-refting = a Cynder bores -exarrinaton and renovation 35. Granwshat and main bearngs - remo B incr read resting Gyinder ead domanting. = i nce ead removal engine at... yinder hood -romoval and efiting onan in ea & Slinger head removal engin ou of ca 15. Cyinder head removal engine out of ea) ee Singer head. aves and paton crowns -docarbonising 30 Cynder head and camatat=refting es lancer head, vaves and rocker gear” examination and at ea ven aspires Sib ferovalon 31 eramnation and renovation rt ngre = dmanting (gee : 0. Cyinder nr pretrasion = checking a Engr inal start-up ater major repairor overhaul £2. Ghnder ines sxariation and renovation “a0 Enge - preparation for easy Q Erne demanting (genera) & Ergo - reese (ener) Engine» nal stare aftr major repair or overna 3 Exae - reconnecting genx Engin prparaton for reseeemy ==. = Ere rotting =~ Engine -resssemby (genera & Engrs» separation fom tne varamasion ‘0 Engine -reconnecton ta gearbox & Exge anclary component refting 43. Engne-reting = Q 8 Exae anetar components removal SY Engine removal rethods 63 Exge components exarnation or weer 124. Engine separation fom transmission ves Exgne renova metiods 7 Engine anchary components refitng eh 3._Engineanclary components removal er Sewn chong rg congeners wannaeoninciion Goh OS Engiefransmisoton removal ; ae 3@._ Fault anang al engines So hte Pp a rei yin 28 Fines removal : "0 Sener description | Fyne and Such rating ar ‘Secge0n pn refing 38. General cesenption 3 SSugeon pine removal 2... 2: Lubreaton ayiten description 3 caton system etc. -.- "} Major opertions passin wth he engine ith cr x apr peratons posse wth engine mca 3 Major operation requring engin rma : A Naer operations requrng engine oma & Oller removal and retting ss Ot ers removal and eting © Gt pump and sumo =reting = oun “examination and eration “92 Gt pump, ave chan and sprckeis “examination and Olpump civeshat = reting 3“ renovaton -- 7 (Oil pump criveshaft bushes - examination and renovation 33 Pistons and liners reassembly and relting iol Paton and connecting rod ssembles = reting St Routine mantonance.ee-r-s se Paton and connected assembles = removal 19. Summancelipump removal * Peston and pon tnge = exanation and renovation 35. Timing be, tsoner and sprockets = sxamiion and Piston nog etna a0 renevaton a Paton ngs removal 22 Teng covers. ing bot and aeboited comprar - Rouine mantorance 2 Netting 0 Sump rofting aS Ting cover ining bo and associat components Sump -removal 13 romoal P ‘Timing cover, gears and chain - removal 17 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment 62 ‘Timing gears, chain and cover - examination and renovation 35 Valves - refitting 88 Degrees of difficulty Easy, sabe for Fariyeasy, site | Fakiyctiout, | Dieu sutabe for rovice wath ttle forbeginer with | suttable for competent a | experienced DIY exparence someecerience S| Ovmechnc S| mecranc192 Engine Specifications Part A: OHV engines General Type Engine type references: Capacity: EiAengine GiA engine Compression ratio: ElAengine GiAengine Finng order Cylinder block (yinder bore ciamoter ‘ass A. = ass 8 Glass C Giass Bore oversizes Width of cere bearing bore Camshaft bore diameter (beerngs fie) ‘Not tHywheel end) No2 Nos: Crankshaft and connecting rods ‘Number of main bearings . ‘Main bearing journal diameter Undersizes for regrinaing ‘Main bearing running clearance Big-end journal diameter UUndersizes for regrinding §ig-end running clearance Crankshaft stroke: 118 ee raasce Crankshaft endfioat Trustwasher thickness Connecting rod endfioat Camshaft and valve gear Camshaft journal diameter No (ywhee! end) No : No Camshaft endoat Valve timing: Inlet opens. init closes Exhaust opens Exhaust closes Init car it Exhaust cam ift Cam followers (tappets Outside ciameter Caarance in bores Length Pusnross: LLengtn (to bottom of rocker arm bal sat) Four-cylinder, in-line, overhead valve (OHV), water-cooled, transverse mounting EIA EIA, GIA(IGIA) 7465 mm 767 x 70mm 311860 r20400 96:1 8 173-4 -2(No 1 at yhoo! ond) 1866 129460 73,9920 to 78.9995 mm 76,6870 to 76.6945 mm 73,9995 to 74.0070 mm 78.6945 to 76.7020 mm 74.0070 t0 74.0145 mm 76.7020 to 76.7096 mma 74.048 to 74.0220 men 76.7095 to 76.7170 mm 40.1 mm, +04 mm 0.1 mm, +0.4 mm 26,58 to 26.62 mm 2658 0 26.62 mm 35.484 to 36.520 mm 35.484 to 35.520 mm 40,964 t 47.020 mm 40.984 to 41.020 mm 49.486 to 41.520 mm 141.484 to 41.520 mm 5 51.966 to 81.876 mm 04, 0.2 and 0.5 mm (0.08 t0.0.078 mm 440.949 to 40.957 mm 0.41, 0.2 and0.5 mm (0.03 to 0.084 mm 68 mm 70mm 0.09 t0 0.27 mm 231 102.38 mm (0.01010 0.027 mm 35.499 to 35.459 mm 40,099 to 40.959 mm 141.439 to 41-489 mm 0.10 0.0.20 mm 36°90 BTC. 37" 06" ABOG 52" BEDS 36° 20" ATDC Sat mm S771 mm 22.974 to 28.000 mn Zero to 0.047 mm 5955 040.5 mm 201 mmEngine 1*3 Pistons Material Number of ans Maumum weight citlerence between any two pistons Piston diameter: Class A Class 8 Glass C Gass D Piston oversize... Piston-to-bore cleerance nominal) Piston ang end gap: Gasket thickness for use with machines head Standard gasket thickness Valve guides: Material insige diameter Valve seatstace angle Valve it: Inet Exraust Valves Valve caarances - cod int Exraust Valve sequence (rom fywnesi end) Inet valves: Stem chametor Stem-to-guide clearance Exnaust valves: ‘Stem diameter Stom-to-guice clearance Vane springs tee length Lubrication system i pressure (minimum) at pressure switch take-off Atle speed: Oil temperature of 40° to 80°C 108" to 176°F) Oil ernpecature of 120°C (248°F) At 3000 ro: A temperature of 40° to 120°C (104° 10 248°F) Ot pump Enattoat - oi pump criveshatt Pump driveanaft bush diameter i type/specrtication outer Torque wrench settings Rocker cover ‘Spark plugs Main bering ca bts Sgro cap ts Fy 19 crankchaft Aluminium alloy 2 compression, 1 oll control 34 11866 1294 ce 73.9625 to 73.9700 mm 75,8575 to 76.6650 mm 76.6650 to 76.6725 mm 76,8725 to 76.6800 mm 78.9700 to 73.975 mm 73.9775 to 73.9850 mm 78,9850 to 73.9628 mm 76,6800 to 76.6875 rm +0. mm, +04 mm 40.1 mm, +04 mm 0.22 to 0.097 mm 0.22 to 0.087 mm 0.026 to 0.45 mm 0.028 1000.45 mm 0.020 to 0.40 mm (0.020 t0.0.40 mm Steel 21.991 to 21.995 mm 13mm 64mm 66.7 mm ‘Clearance in piston interference in connecting roc 111866 129466 1.0mm 06mm 22mm 1am 4.2mm 12mm Cast ton Cast ron £8,022 to 8.040 mm 18,022 t0 8.040 mm 44° to 48" 3045 44° to 44" 30745" 8.12 mm B12. 8.58 mm 858 mm 0.25 mm (0.010 in) 0.30 men {0.012 in) NENEE LE! 7.970 to 7.985 men 0.037 to 0.070 mm 7.9500 7.965 mm 10,057 to 0.080 mm 484mm 2.8 bar (37,7 Ion) 4.2 bar (17.4 Tot ne) 3.6 to 5.6 bar (52.2 0 81.2 Iofin) Extamally mounted geer type 10.05 t0.050 ram 12,080 to 12.055 mm. Muitigrade engine ol, viscosity SAE 1014/40 or 1SW/40 Champion H101 Ne ver 5 4 30 22 5 8 28 28 55 a194 Engine Torque wrench settings iecoitehien Crankshaft pulley Inlet maniola Exhaust manfoid Timing cover to block: 7 mm bots 8mm oolts Timing cover ‘Sump to block ‘Sump baseplate | (Oil pump to block (Ot pressure rele valve plug il pump strainer to block Camshaft sprocket Camshaft trust plate bolt (Crankshaft ol seal housing Oi strainer gauze to housing ‘Sump drain plug Cylinder block coolant drain plug Engine to ight mounting suppert nuts Flexible mounting nuts... Gearbox (left-hand) mounting support nuts ‘Suspension lower balloint bolts Bearing to housing Engine ower mounting bot fon engine side) Ergoe owe meuring bot resemanber nce) Front hub ruts... Cylinder head bert: ‘Stage 1 Stage 2 ‘Stage 3 after running engine - see Section 7) loosen bolts in tur and raightan to Part B: OHC engine General Type Engine type references: 18ite engine, carburetor. 1.5 ire engine, fuel injection Bore . Stroke Capacity Compression ratio Fring order Camshaft Dnve Action Endfloat (not adjustabi) itt Eary models Later moaole Connecting rods Type Big-end bore ‘Smalt-end bore Cylinder liners Type Protrusion trom biock (without sea Protrusion differance between liners Coding mark Nm wt te 150 m 18 " Ey 6 13 10 30 2 20 15 13 10 10 7 13 10 40 30 13 10 8 n 5 " 13 10 5 " 35 6 4 3 50 a7 20 5 35 28 35 28 w 13 5 3 55 a 265 196 cy 7 70 52 Ey 52 Four-cyinder n-ne, overnead camshaft (OHC), water cooled, transverse mounting XUSIC BINA) XUSJA (860) 83 rom 73mm 1560 ce 99:1 4-3-4-2 No 1 at fywhoal anc) Toothed belt Directly onto bucket tappets 0.07 t0 016 mm 10.4 mm 27 mm Forged stee! 48.655 to 48.671 mm 21.989 1021.971 mm Wet, removable, matched t piston 0.08 to 0.18 mn (0.05 mm max (One, two or thrae sashesEngine 165 Crankshaft and main bearings Number of main bearings Main bearing bore in crankcase Main journal diameter: New After reginding CCrankpin ctamoter: NOW eeeeeees After regrinding Journal of erankpin out-of-ound Endfoat Thrust washer thicknesses avaliable. Pistons Type Fiting orientation Coding marks: For guageon pin For liner Gudgeon pin Nominal ameter Coxing mark Fe Cylinder head Material Warp iit Number of camshatt bearings Cinder head gasket thickness (service exchange) Cynder nead gasket thickness (new engine) Maxumum amount tbe skimmed from gasket face Valves ead ameter inlet Exhaust Stem ameter inlet Exraust Length: leet ‘Minimum at 900 rpm Minimum at £000 rpm Oi pressure warning light operation: ub extinguished above pressure of Bulb gts if prossure fais below i type/spectication Fitertype 6 163,708 t0 68.727 mm ‘59.981 to 60.000 mm 159.681 to 52.700 mm 44,971 to 44.990 mm 444,571 to 44.690 mm 0.007 mm max 0.07 190.27 mm 2.30, 2:35, 240, 2.45 and 2.50 mm Aluminium alloy with thee compression rings and one scraper: ‘matched to liner DT mark and arrow point towards timing cas nd of engine Figure (blue), 2 (whit) or 3 (rod) ‘One, two or tree slashes 22mm Coloured paint (see piston specs) Clearance in piston, interference in connecting rod ‘Aluminium alloy (0.08 mm 5 44 me 12mm 020mm 40mm 32.95 mm 7.985 to 7.980 mm 7.988 to 7.960 mm 109.29 mm 108.72 mm 10.15 to 0.25 mm (0.006 to 0.010 in 0.35 to 0.48 mm 0.014 to 0.018 in) ‘Shims between tappet and valve stem 10" 16 BOC. 26 26' ABDC 441° 20" BOC. 4°37 ATC ‘Wet sump, pressure feed and splash 1.4 bar 20.3 ting) 3.5 bar (60.8 It/n?) (0.8 bar (11.8 lotr) (0.6 bar (8.7 loti) ‘Muttgrade engine olyiscosity SAE1OW/40 or 15¥/40 Full flow, ieposabie cartndge (Champion F104)196 Engine Torque wrench settings No Cam cover we . 10 yinder head bats: ‘Stage 1 (Al bots in sequence)... .eeeseeeeeeeseee 60 Stage 2: Sacken bolt 1, then : EINNEID 20410" Repeat Stage 2 an remaining bolls in sequence Camshaft bearing caps. Detter 15 Camshatt sprocket bot (M10) 0 Camshaft sprocket bot (M12) 20 Crankshaft pulley bot 10 Camsnaft trust plate 10 Main bearing cap nuts and bolts a 50 Main bearing side bolts 25 Big-end cap bolts... DIN 80 (i pump-to-bleek boite 20 Oil seal carter... : co 18 ‘Sump bolts aa nD 20 Suction drain pipe (oi 5 Flywheel to crankshaft” ranmumnmmuaners BO Engine mounting bracket bats (timing C886 end) vs. c.svsvssscvese 20 Engine mounting nut (centre) - left-hand rrounting a5 Coolant pump botts 20 Timing cover bots 15 “Ting batt tensioner o : 5 Oil pressure switch ey Clutch housing bots : ae 6 Starter motor bots 35 “Apply locking solation to bot threads Part A: OHV engines ‘semi-circular thrust washers on the uppar halt (of the centre main bearing. The camshaft runs in three bearings 11 General description recessed into bores in the eylindor block, Camshaft drive is by a double row ‘The Peugeot 209 models fitted with the ing chain from a sprocket on the crankshaft. ‘overhead valve type engine are the XE and GE ‘models (1.1 lire engine), and the XE, XL, GE, GL. Style ang GR Profile models (1.9 Inve engine), Whichever engine type is fited, the basic design is the same, being a water- cooled, four-cylinder, four-stroke petrol ‘engine. The different engine capacities are obtained by using different cylinder bore sameters and lengths of piston stroke. The engine is located in a transverse positon and is mnctined rearwards at an angle of 38°. This lowers the centre of gravity ang | also improves accessibilly to the ancillary components mounted on the front of the engine, The combined crankcase and cylinder block is of cast fon construction ang houses ‘the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft and Camshaft. The cast aluminium alloy pistons are retained on the connecting rods. by ‘udgeon pins which are an interterance ft in| the connecting od sma-and bore. The | | connecting rods are attached ta the crankshatt by renewable shell type big-end bearings The forged steal crankshaft is cae in five renewable shell type. Crankshaft enatleat is contralies by tor 7 44 164120" " 0 53 a 7 7 18 37 15 " 8 a 6 28 5 " “ 8 x 28 ‘The cyinder head is an aluminium afloy dle- ‘casting of crosstlow configuration. Inclined iniat and exhaust valves operate in renewable ‘valve guides pressed nto the cylinder head. Valve actuation is by rocker arms, pushrods and cam followers activated by the camshaft lobes. Paty | i | eS } Ni Fig, 1.1 Side and end section views of the OHV engine (See 7)OHV Engine 1°7 223 Topping-up the engine oil (OHV engine) 2. Routine maintenance We M0 Te folowing maintenance proceaues ust be cared out at to orale given h Posing Martnance et the begining of he The ol level io the engine should be ced wih the car standing novel groure, win the engne switched off and Brrr when to engines cold Ftne manuactorers specly a normal oil Zonsumpton figure of © he pr 1000 km 7 miles per pr, but wl depend on be condton ofthe engine ane the contions tree which itis caven, therfore check the engine live! at the Intervals ued Fiimcraw se diostes, wie it lea, her Had ten witha tf the cond tine The level stud be batwoan the high 2rvion man, tet ow op up ear the ter cap pot), but take cre nto oe Rate fer cap. 4 Tocram he gre oft preteraba forthe toges'o bent Prt rae te ttont tthe cr crranps or wth aac Unscrew te socket faded gin esr romove th le ap conta a Sion theo has drained, wipe ean the San pg ten et and ighten 6 It the oil fiter is cue for renewal now is the no crange Tre removal and ren tae aeceserbed in Section T'Lower tne car fo te grou the fi he Sr win re spcted warty and ase £8 Star the engine. There wil bea short delay before the ol warming lamp goes out. Ths normal ane caused by the pow iter having 8 Sutch off the engine, wait ton minutes and Check he of level anc top up if necessary. 10 Perocicaly, particularly on an engine when as coveres a high mileage, remove the gine ol filer sap and. if fitted, check the er mesh incorporated in the cap (photo. 24 Engine oll drain plug (OHV engine) ‘The fiter is a breather for the crankcase ventilation system and should be cleaned or renewed If tis blocked with sludge 3. Lubrication system - description [An external spur type ot pump is botted to te rear face of the cylinder block and is, dren by a skew gear off the camshaft. Oil's pumped through @ full-flow filter to the Erankshatt main oll gallery and then through ‘lings inthe eylinaer block to the camshaft timing gears and valve train. The cylinder bores, gudgeon pins and vaive stems are splash lubricated Dy oll thrown off the moving pars Fig. 1.2 Engine lubrication system cireul (OHC engine shown) 4 Oil filter - removal and refitting Hite 1 The il fiters of cisposable cartridge type. Unscrew it with an oll iter wrench, But fst ‘wrap itn cloth as some oll wil run out. fa proper wrench is not avallable a large worm Gtive hose clip can be fitted to the fiter and the serest used as a gripping point. If all else fais, a screwdriver can be driven right through the certidge and this used as a lever to unscrew it 2 itis very Important to purchase and tthe ‘correct type af fiter as some engines have a bypass valve incorporated inthe fitr mounting base of the crankcase whilst others have t valve incorporated in the fiter carte = OHV engine (See 3)198 OHV Engine “44 Lubricate fiter seal with oll before fitting 3 No problem wil arise If genuine Peugeot fiters are used as they all incorporate a bypass vale, This wil nave no Dearing upon the tact that a valve may already be built into the crankease, 4 Clean the fitter mounting ring on the crankease and apply engine oto the rubber seal on the cartdge. Do not use grease 3 it may make the fier difficult 10 unscrew (proto). 5 Check thatthe threaded sleeve Is tight on the crankcase, offer up the new fiter and rew # on using hand pressure ony. 6 Top up the engine oi, run the engine and cheek for any signs of oil leakage from the fier seal 5 Major operations possible with engine in car The folowing operations are possible wih the engine in postion in the car. Femoral and rfiting ofthe cine nead, valves and rocker gear Remaval and refting ofthe oll puma Removal and refiting ofthe sump Removal and rafting ofthe big-ene bearings fafte removal ofthe sump) Remaval and refting ofthe piston/eonnecting roa assembles (afar removal ofthe cyinder head and sumo) emeval and reiting ofthe timing gear Femoral and reiting of the engine mountings 13.8 Detach the hoses indicated from the three-way connector Fig. 1.9 Engine undershiold and side shield removal - pull on clips to withdraw them (Sec 8) Removal and refitting ofthe fywhee! (ater ‘removal ofthe gearbox) Removal and refting ofthe major ancilary “components - inlet and exhaust ‘marvoies, starter motor, water pure, lstibutoraltemator and ol iter 6 Major operations requiring engine removal ‘The folowing operations can only be cared ‘ut wit the engine removed fram the ca. Removal and refting ofthe main bearings Removal and rfting ofthe crankshatt Removal ad refting ofthe camshaft 7 Engine removal methods 1 The engine and transmission assembly are femoved from beneath the vehicle. Once femoved fram the vehicle, the two units can 'be separated, if required the gearbox can be Separated and removed with the engine in Situ, but again RS withdrawal is. from Lndemeath se Chapt 8 for details). 2'if the gearbox is removed first, the engine ‘can then be removed from above, but in view adcitional operations required, this is 3 method that is normaly recommended for removal and subsequent refiting ‘8.4 Unbolt and remove the bonnet 8 Engine/transmission - & removal 41 Open and support the bonnet in the full ‘pen position (photo), Its advisable though not nececte ate! | oncre Be ore xe Chapter) toprevent | satpro heatioimror | 2 Disconnect and remove the battery as, ‘eseribed in Chapter 12. 3 Remove the alr cleaner unit and ductings (Chapter 3} 4 Remove the engine undorshield and side shields, then drain the cooing system as Sescribed in Chapter 2 5 Undo the sump drain plug and drain the fengine oll into a suitable container tor isposal 8 Undo the two drain pluge and drain the i from the gearbox and differential unit into a Suitable container for disposal (eee Chap- te). 7 Disconnect and amove the radiator top @ Disconnect the heater hose at the thermostat and at the three-way connector on the front side ofthe engin (ehoto), 9 Disconnect the vacuum Servo tose at the .47A Disconnect the LT lead connector, ‘and distributor cap and HT leads 8118 {rom the distributer and collOHV Engine 1°9 {8.27 Torque reaction link and right-hand ‘riveshaft somes Scag case nacseatt Wa alps et mb ewe eae ss Sumner ets Bea treo conc atsiocy 8 Socom cove tow 0 2 Encnrreantecns & moseienccre 9 Setar ear wt od eer Sigceacencte orton Retrenteasenstersouas Eimear Saeste renee neta se ee uation tor cats Siecnnewveces WR mrate dtotoe wena an ye So es tbo ver Een snot ro $UeTi ca re enema Sonnets icra gn fa ee manera nee ae TRED aca ee en {831 Lowering the engine and transmission from the car {either direction) to ensixe that itis out ofthe way when removing the engine. 22 Detach the radiator bottom hose at the ‘engine end, and the heater return nose at the radiator end 23 Detach the wiring connectors from the Starter motor and the alternator, also the ‘coolant evel Indicator sensor on the radiator. 24 Unde the clamp bolt from the steering stub axle lower ballloit on each side and withdraw the bots. Note that the bolts are fited from the front. With the oolts removed, prise fre the joints by levering down on the Suspension arm. Take care not to damage the gatters. 25 Remove the balloint protector shields. If strut retainer cables were net fitted (as Suggested in paragraph 16), it will be necessary to unbott and remove the suspension arm Inner pivot bolt in order to ‘low the full separation of the babioint. Tun the hub onto full Ioek when separating the balloit inthis manner. 26 Unco the left-hand front hub nut, then {etach and remove the left-hand drive shaft (see Chapter 7) 27 Unbolt and remove the torque reaction link from is location between the engine and the subteame on the right-hand side (phot). 28 Remove the right-nand driveshaft as described in Chapter 7. 29 Fit the lift sling to the engine and transmission, Lift sling attachment eyes are located at the right-hand side mounting anc fon the fear of the transmission on the ltt= hand side above te salactor shaft. Attach the. It hoist othe sing and take up any slack but {0 nat aise the enginettransmission 90 Undo the left and right-hand mounting 31 Check that af attachments are clear of the engine and transmission, then eaveuly lower the engine and transmission unit (photo). AS tho two assembbes are separatad from their mountings, collect the special flat washer ‘rom the lei-hand mounting and the standard flat washer trom the right-hand mountin 32 When fully lowered, witharav the engine land transmission from the front end of the Vehicle, Lowering onta a suitable trolley all ‘85 Engine and transmission separation 9 Engine - separation fromthe 3S transmission 1 I the engine has been removed comple with the transmission assembly, itis Necessary 10 separate the two units before tlsmantiing work on tne engine can begin. 2 To do this, frst undo and remove the bolts securing the starter motor flange to the Dellhousing and the bolt securing the lower support bracket to the cylinder block. Lift away the starter motor 3 Undo and remove the bolts securing the ‘gnition coll mounting plate to the belihousing {and it ofthis assomoly. 4 Unboit and remove the clutcn housing cover pate with the TDC wire and sensor {where fitec). Looean the small bot and pivot the plate fee. 5 Support the gearbox, remove any retaining bolts remaining. The gearbox can now be withdrawn from the engine but as they are Separated, do not allow the weight of the transmission to hang on the input shaft Recover any loose dowels (pot). 10 Engine - dismantling (general) 1 Ideally, the engine is mounted on a proper stand for overhaul but its anticipated that ‘most owners wil have a strong bench on which to pia it, Ha sufficiently large strong bench is nat avaiable then the work can be done at ground love. is essential, however, that eome form of substantial wooden surface availabe, Timber shouldbe atleast 3/4 inch thick, otherwise the weight of the engine wall ‘cause projections to punch holes straight ‘through it 2'ft will save a great deal of time later if the fengine is thoroughly cleaned down on the fxterir before any dismantling begins. This can be done by using paraffin and a si brush tor more eas, probably, by the Use of a water soluble solvent which ean be brushed on ang then the cirtswiled of with a waterjet. This1°10 OHV Engine 11.1 General view of the 1.3 litre engine Prior to dismanting will dispose of all the heavy grease and grit ‘once and for all so that later cleaning of individual components will be a relatively clean process and the paraffin bath will not become contaminated with abrasive meta 3 As the engine is stipped down, clean each Part as t comes off. Try to avoid immereing parts with oilways in parattin as pockets of liquid Could remain and cause oll diution in the ential tst few revolutions ater teassembly. Caan oilways with wire or, preferabiy, an ar iet. 4 Where possibie, avoid damaging gaskets ‘on removal, especially i new ones have not ‘been obtained. They can be used as patterns if mew ones have to be specially cut. 5 It helpful to ootain afew blocks of wood to support the engine while it sin the process of Gismanting, Stat demanting atthe top ofthe ‘engine and then tum the block over and deal withthe sump and crankshaft et, afterwards, 6 Nuts and bolts should be ceitted In their locations where possible to avoid confusion later. As an alternative keep each group of ‘nuts and bolts together in ajar or tin 7 Many items which are removed must be refitted in the same position, if they are not being renewed. These include valves, rocker arms. cam followers, pistons, pushrods, bearings and connecting rods. Some of these fare marked on assembly t0 avoid any ‘ossilty of mixing them up curing overaul (thers are not. and itis a great help if ‘adequate preparation is mage in advance to ciassity these paris. Sutablylabalied tins oF Jars and, for small iiems, egg trays, tobacco ‘ins and 60 on, ean b@ used, The time apent in this operation wil be amply repaid later. 8 Other items whicn will be useful are 9 notebook and pencil, masking tape (for labeling components) and a good supply of plastic bags. can be 2 diffrent story when the time comes for reassembly! | 5 1 oo Fig. 1.4 Numerical sequence for loosening ‘the cylinder head bots - OHV engine ‘Gee 12) 4 8 3g © 8 © 11 Engine ancillary components = removal 1 Bofore engine dismanting begins it is necessary to remove the externally mounted ancillary components. The extent and sequence of their removal is dependent on the amount to whieh the engine is being dismantied. W the engine ie being fully dismantled, the following items must be removed (phot). fa) Thermostat using complete - reer to Chapter 2 tor cetais, (©) Inlet manvold with carburettor - refer to (Captor 3 for cetails () Exhaust manifols- refer to Chapter 3 for otis (Fue! pure - refer to Chapter 9 for details [e) Distributor - refer i Chapter 4 for details () Aberrator and mounting bracket - refer to Chapter 12 for cetas (@) Clutch unit - refer to Chapter 5 for detais 1) Engine of fitor- refer to Section 4 for otal 2 With the major ancilary components ‘emoved, the engine sub-assembtes can now be dismantled as required, as described inthe following Sections. 12 Cylinder head - & removal (engine in car) x 1 Disconnect the battery earth terminal and ‘then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 2 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly as ‘eserbed in Chapter 3 3 Undo and remove the nute securing the ‘exhaust front pipe to the manifold flange anc recover the heat shield and gasket. If tis ‘necessary t0 jack up the car for this operation, ‘make sure that itis well supported on axle stanas. 4 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the brake serve vacuum hose from the inlet manitot, 5 Undo and remove the two nuts and one Dolt securing the air leaner hot airbox tothe rocker cover. Lit off the air box. Fig. 15 Cylinder head gasket identification OHV engines (Sec 12) sores (1.1 sre) engine -2 notches G Series (1.3 lire) engine ~ 3 notches 6 Slacken the retaining clips and withdraw the radiator top hose and heater nose from their outlets on the thermostat housing 7 Slacken the hose clips and detach the coolant hoses from the inlet manifold ana carburetor as necessary. '8 Mark the positions ofthe HT leads and then pull them off tre spark plugs. Note that No 1 ‘ylinder i nearest tothe Rywrioa 8 Detach the fuel inlet pipe and distributor vacuum advance pipe trom the carburettor. 40 eter to Chapter 3, and disconnect the ‘accelerator cable and choke cable from the carburettor, 41 Detach the electrical lead trom the temperature gauge transmitter at the rear of the evinder head, 42 Undo and remove the remaining securing nuts and lit off the rocker cover complete wth breather hose. Recover the rocker cover gasket. The engine must be cold before proceeding any further to avoid distortion of the cylinder head. 13 Siackon all the oylinder head bolts one tur at a time in the order shown in Fig. 1.4 fan then undo anc remove them completely. {4 Lit off the rocker shaft aseembiy. holding it at both ends to prevent it springing apart. Afar removal, secure the assembly with wie to keep t together. 48 Lift out each pushrod in turn, using a twisting motion to release them from the cam tollowers. 16 The cylinder head, complete with ‘manifolds and carburettor, can now be removed by iting it upwards. If the head is SUCK. ty to rock it o break the seal or ska it sharply with a hide or plastic mallet. Under no Sircumstances should the head be struck rectly with a metal hammer, nor should ary attempt be made to prise it apart from the bylinder block using 2 screwdriver or coldOHV Engine 1911 ‘Cranking the engine on the starter motor may be ‘ffective in breaking the seal of a stubborn gasket. 17 Having removed the oyinder ead, ff out the cam folowers. Withdraw them one a ate, keeping each folower in ts coract order of removal o that can be fited ints ongnal bore. 18 it further work s to be camied out on the cylinder head, remove the thermostat housing land manos before proceeding, 49 I should be noted thatthe cylinder head gasket must be renewed when reiting and it IS essential mat the correct type is fitted ‘according to model (see Figure 15) 19 Cylinder head - removal {engine out of car) Remove the engine ancilary components a8 described in Section 11, and then proceed as directed in paragraphs 12 0 17 inclusive of the previous Section, 8 With the cylinder head removed from the engine, the valves can be removed as follows. 1 Fret remove the soak pugs. 2.Using a conventional valve spring ‘compressor. compress each valve spring in ‘um unt the two halves ofthe colets can be removed. Release the compressor and remove the spring and spring cup, valve oll seal, spring seat and the valve ise, 13s before, identiy all the parts so that they ‘may be refitted into the same positions from wich they were taken. 14 Valves - removal then the valve spring ‘compressor is screwad down, the vaive spring cup | refuses to free and expose the spit collets, de not screw the ‘compressor further down in an effort to {force the cup free. Gantly tap the top of the too! directly over the spring cup | with aight hammer. This will usualy | {ree the cup. Whilst tapping the tool, ‘hold the compressor firmly with your ‘ther hand to prevent the too! jumping ff the cup when itis released. 18 Sump - removal 1 The sump consists of two parts: a lower Dressed steel baseplate, containing the drain lug, ang aight alloy main Body incorporating anti-surge baffles. A separate compartment 1 the front face of the main body houses the water pump ane water inlet elbow. 2 if the sump is to be removed with the engine in the car ti iret necessary to remove the engine undertray, then drain tne engine oil and the cooling system. Also to be removed are the alternator dirt shield, alternator and ‘water pump hoses. Full information covering these operations wil be found in the relevant Sections and Chapters of this manual 2 ifthe engine is out of the car and on the ‘bench, turn ver on its side eo thatthe sum boits are accessible, 4 Undo and remove the fourteen baseplate Fetaining bots and it off the plat. 55 Undo and remove the three retaining bolts and withdraw the oil pick-up and strainer assembly (photo). 6 Unco and remave the bolts inside and along the outer edge of the main body and lift ‘off this assemaly, If tis stuck, tap it ree using ‘hide or plastic mallet. Recover the cork and ‘paper gaskets from the baseplate, main body land strainer mating faces. 1 If this component is tobe removed withthe engine In the car, it wil frst be necessary 10 remove the ballhousing and gearbox assembiy, and then the clutch, a3 described in. Chapter 6 and Chapter § respectively. 2 Ifthe engines onthe bench, turn ithe right ‘way up and stand it on wooden blocks postioned beneath the crankcase. 3 Lack the flywheel to prevent it turing by fengaging a strip of angle iron with the ring ‘gear teeth and resting it against a bar inserted Through the rear engine-to-bellhousing 16 Flywheel - removal fetainng bot hole 4 Undo and remove the flywheel retaining bolts in a progressive, diagonal sequence, recover the seating plate, and lit off the flywheel, Be careful not to drep it itis heavy. Fig. 1.6 Using a spring compressor to ‘release the valve collets (Sec 14) ‘ 1 Remove the sump as described in Sec: tion 15. 2 Place a block of wood between the crankshaft and the side of the crankcase to prevent rotation of the crankshaft. 3 Using a socket and extension bar, undo ‘and remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and then lever off the pulley using two screwdrivers, The retaining bot is very tight 4 Undo and remave the timing cover retaining bolts, ease the cover off its locating dowels fang remove it from the front face of the ‘engine. '5 Undo and remove the three botts securing the camshaft srocket tothe camahatt 6 Lift off the camsnatt sprocket complet with chain and then using two screwdrivers, lover off the crankshaft sprocket. Recover the Woodruff key trom the end ofthe crankshaft s 8 It is theoretically oossible to remove the ‘camshaft with the engine inthe car. However, ‘the preliminary work isso extensive - removal Of oylinder head, sumo, starter motor, ol! ‘Bump and fuel pump, followed by the lowering Of the front of he engine - that the procedure Is not recommended. With the engine on the bench and the camshaft sprocket removed as escrbed in Section 17, proceed as follows. 4 Undo anc remove the two Botts that secure the aistrbutor mounting plate to the side of tha eyllnder block and it off the pate. 2 Withdraw the distributer driving dog from ‘the splined end ofthe oi pump criveshat {3 Prior to removing the shaft dal gauge is ‘available, the driveshaft endfioat should be ‘checked and noted (also the camshat 4 Using a pair of pliers, extract the small ‘rcp from the end of the shart it out the ‘even gear anc washer, and then side out the ‘riveshatt from the oll pump side of the leynder bloc. 17 Timing cover, gears and chain - removal 18 Camshaft and oil pump driveshaft - removal 15.5 Ol pick-up and strainer shown with ‘sump baseplate removed1912 OHV Engine '5 Rotate the camshaft unti the cut-outs on the front flange are aligned with the thrust plate retaining bolts, Reliove the locktabs (it Applicable), then unde and remove the thrust plate retaining bots. 6 Liftoff the thrust plate and then carefully withdraw the camshaft from the front of the engine. Take care to avoid scratching the soft Dearing surfaces withthe camshaft lobes. 19 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - removal xs 1 This operation may be carriad out withthe ‘engine in the car after removal ofthe cylinder ead, described in Section 12, and the sump, ‘escribed in Section 15. 2 Before removing the piston and connecting ‘od assembles, clean offal traces of carbon from the top of the cylinder bores. Ifa wear fidge can be felt, reduce this as much as possible. using a autable scraper, to avoid Samaging the pistons and rings during removal 3 'Rotate the crankshaft in the normal ‘rection of rotation unti No t piston is at the bottom ofits stroke 4 Undo and remove the big-end bearing nuts ‘on No 1 connecting rod and take off the cap ‘and lower bearing shel. Ifthe capis tight, tap it gently trom side to sie using a hammer, ‘5 Push the piston and connecting rod ‘assembly up through the bore an withdraw it ‘tom the t0P of the cyinder block. Take care not to score the crankshaft journal with the big-end bots. {6 Refit the bearing cap and lower shell tothe connecting fod and secure with the nuts finger tight. Make sure that the upper anc lower bearing shells are not interchanged if they are to be re-used, kentfication numbers ‘may be stamped on the connecting rod and 'ig-end cap to indicate the cylinder to which they ae fitted, 7 Repeat the above procedure for the femamning thrae piston and connecting rod assembles, turning the crankshaft as necessary #9 gain access f0 the big-end nuts. 20 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal s 1 In order to be able to remove the crankshatt it wil be necessary to have completed the following tasks: (@) Removal of engine {0} Separation of engine from transmission {e) Remove of cylinder head {@) Removal of sump and flwhoe! fe) Removal of timing cover, gears anal chain {Removal of big-end bearings 2 It is not essential to have extracted the Pistons and connecting rods, but it makes for 2 less cluttered engine block during Crankshaft removal 3 Before removing the crankshaft, it is ‘advisable to check the crankshaft enoat as eseribed in Section 38. If the crankshatt tenctoat isin excess of the maximum amount ‘specified, tis indicative of excessive wear of the crankshaft and bearings. Remove the crankshaft as follows 44 Begin by removing the five retzining boks and iting off the oll sel housing at the rear of the crankshaft and cylinder block. 5 Check that the main bearing caps have Identifcation numbers marked on them; No 1 should be atthe flywheel end and No 5 at the timing gear end. I identification is not visible, tse a centre punch to mark the caps. Also rota the direction of iting of the caps. @ Slacken the main bearing cap retaining boits by one tur only to begin with. Once all have baen locsened, proceed to unscrew and remove them. 7 The bearing caps can now be lifted away, together with the shells inside them. Finally the crankshaft can be removed, folowed by the upper shells seated inthe crankcase. 21 Gudgeon pins - removal The pistons are retained on the connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which are an interference fit the connecting rod small= tend bore. If new pistons are to be fitted, its strongly recommended that you take the assemblies fo your Peugeot dealer or motor Engineering specialist to have this done, ‘otherwise damage to the piston or distortion fof the connecting red may result 22 Piston rings - removal EN 4 To remove the piston rings, slide them carefully over the top of the piston, taking Care not fo sceatch the aluminium alloy; never Side them off the bottom ofthe piston skirt. it is very easy to break the cast ron piston rings. «they are pu off roughly, 50 this operation should be Cone with extreme care. tis helpful to make use of an old 0.5 mm (0.020 in) feter gauge. 2Lit one end of the piston ring to be Temoved out ofits groove and insert under it 3 Slide the piston and, as the ting comes out of its ‘groove, apply slight upward pressure so it fests on the fand above. It can then be eased ‘off the piston wth the Teeler gauge stopping It from sipping into an empty groove if itis any but the top piston rng thats being removed. 4 Repeat the procedure on the remaining piston rings, Keap the ings with ther pistons Ff tnay aro to be re-used (photo. 23 Engine components - examination for wear When the engine has been stripped down and all parts propery cleaned, decisions have to be made as to what needs renewal. The ‘ollowing Sections tell the examiner what to look for. In any borderline case it is always best to decide in favour of anew part. Even if part may stil be serviceable, its ie wil have to be reduced by wear and the degree of trouble needed to renew It inthe fture must be taken into consideration. However, these things are relative and it depends on whether ‘a quick ‘survival job is being done or whether the car as a whole is being regarded as having many thousands of miles of useful and fseonomical fe remaining 24 Crankshaft, main and big- end bearings - examination ‘and renovation 4. With careful servicing and regular oll and fiter changes, bearings wil last for very !ong time. But they can stil fall for unforeseen reasons. With big-end bearings, an indication is-@ regular rhythmic loud knocking trom the ‘crankcase. The frequency depends on engine Speed and is particularly noticeable when the ‘engine Is under load. This symptom is OOO Ae 22: Piston, connecting rod and piston ‘ngs dlamantiod for inspectionOHV Engine 1613 accompanied by a fall in oll pressure, although this is not normaly noticeabie unless an ol pressure gauge is fited. Main bearing failure ‘s usualy indicated by serious vibration, particularly at higher engine ‘evolutions, accompanied by a more ‘signticant “drop in oll pressure and a rambling’ noice 2 Big-ond bearings can be removed withthe fengine stil inthe car. Ifthe faire Is sudden land the engine has a low mileage since new (oF overhaul, this is probably worth doing Bearing shes in good conction have bearing surfaces with a smooth, even matt sivergrey Colour al over. Worn bearings will show patches ofa diferent colour when the bearing metal nas worn away and exposed the Underlay. Damaged bearings will be pitted or scored. tis always well worthwhile iting new shall as their cost i relatively low. I the {rankshaft is in good condition, its merely a question of obtaining another set of standard S22 shells (out see below). A reground Crankshat wil need new bearing shells as a matter of course (photo). 3 Look atthe main bearing journals and the ‘rankDins. If there are any deep scratches or fs2ore marks, the shaft will need regrinding. Such conditions will nearly always be accompanied by similar deterioration in the matcring bearing shel 4 Each Dearing journal must also be perfect ‘ound and can be checked with a micrometer (proto) oF caper gauge around the periphery 2 several points. tere is more the 0.02 mm. (0.001 in of ovaity, regringing is necessary. 5 Amain Peugeot agent or motor engineering Specalst willbe abe to decide to what extent regnnding 's necessary and also supply the special oversize shell bearings to match whatever may need grncing of. 6 Before taking the crankshaft for regrinding, Check also the cyinder bore and pistons as may be advantageous to have the whole {ngine done a the same time. Tite crankshaft is not being reground, but the bearings are to be renewed. take the old Shes along to your supplier and check that ou sre geting the correct size bearings ® Check the spigot bush in the end of the crankshaft for wear, and if necessary renew Fig. 1.7 Crankshaft and flywheel assembly (Sec 24) 1 Puy retaining bolt 6 Gasket 10 Locking plate 2 Pulley 7 Ol seal cover 11 Fhywhoe! bot ‘9 Shai bearing 8 Starter ring gear 12 Spigot bush 4 Theust washers 9 Fiywnoct 13 Crankshaft reer fange soai {5 Crankshaft To remove the bush, fl it with grease and then drive in @ close-fitig rod. The Oush wil come out by. the nydraullo pressure gonorate 25 Cylinder bores - Sees onion |S 1 Anew cylinder is perfectly round and the walls paral trrouphout its length. The action Of the piston tends to wear the walls at right- angie to the gudgeon pin due to side thrust. This wear takes place principally on that section of the cylinder swept by the piston rings. 2 It's possibie to get an indication of bore ‘wear by removing the cylinder head with the ‘engine stiln the car. Witn the piston down in the bore, fst signs of wear can be seen anc fait just below the top of the bore wnere the top piston ning reaches and there will be & noticeable lip. It there is no lip itis fairly reasonabie to expect that bore wear is not severe and any lack of compression oF 24.2 Bearing shell dentification mark (on ‘ear face of shel) 24.4 Measure crankshaft journals for wear ‘using a micrometer ‘excessive oll consumption is due to worn or broken piston rings or pistons. 3 If itis possible to obtain a bore measuring micrometer, measure the bore in the thrust plane below the lip and again at the bottom of the cylinder inthe same plane. If the ditference is more than 0.15 mm (0,006 in), reore is necessary. Similarly, a difference of (0.08 mm (0.008 in} or more between two ‘measurements of the bore dlameter taken at fight angles to each other is a sign of ovality, calling for arebore. 4 Aay bore which is significantly scratched or scored will need reboring. This symptom Usually indicates that the piston or rings are damaged also, In the event of only one ‘ylinder being in need of reboring it wil stil be necessary for al four to be bored and fitted ‘with new oversize pistons and rings. Your 1-8 Measuring cylinder bore wear with ‘bore gauge (See 25)1914 OHV Engine Peugeot agent or local motor engineering specialist wil be able to rebore and obtain the necessary matched pistons. Ifthe crankshaft 's undergoing regancing aio, itis a good idea to lt the same fr renovate and reassemble the crankshaft and pistons to the block. A reputable fm normaly gives a guarantee for Sit the cylinders are in a satisfactory condition and a rebore is not necessary but new pistons andr rings are to be fitted, the ‘oytnder bores must be degiazed. This entals removing the high surface polisn or glaze on the cyinder wals which wil otherwise prevent the new rings from property bedding in, with resutant high oil consumption 68 Degiazing can be carried out using a fine grade emery cloth wrapped around a suitable former. Use liberal amounts of paraffin to keep the emery unclogged and use a criss- {19s action so that the resuting nish Is of @ Cross-hatch pattern. On completion thoroughly wash the block and remove ail traces of emery ot 26 Piston and piston rings examination and renovation gS 1 Worn pistons. and rings can usually be clagnosed when the symptoms of excessive ‘il Consumption and low compression occur and are sometimes, though not always, associated with wor cylinder pores. Compression testers that fit into the epark lug hole are availabe and these can incieate where low compression is occuring. Weer Usually accelerates the more tis lat so when the symptoms occur, arly action can ssi save the expense ofa rebore 2 Another symptom of piston wear is piston Siap ~ a knocking noise from the crankcase not to be confused with big-end bearing ‘allure, Itcan be nears clearty at low engine speed whan there is no load iicling for example) especialy when the engine 's cold and is much less audible when the engine speed increases. Piston wear usualy occurs in the skit oF lower end of the piston and is inated by vertical streaks in the worn area 26.3 Checking a piston ring gap using a feeler gauge Which is always on the thrust side. It can also 'be seen where the skirt thickness is aliffrent. 3 Piston ring wear can be checked by fist Femoving the rings trom the pistons as ‘described in Section 22. Then place the rings inthe cylinder bores from the top, pushing them down about 38 mm (715 in with the head ‘of a piston {from which the rings have been removed) so that they rest square in the cylinder. Now measure the gap at the ends of the rings wit a teeter gauge and compare the imension obtained with the figures given in Speciticaiy “the gaps are excessive the fings must ve sewed (photo). 4 The grooves in which the rings locate in the pistons can also become enlarged in use These cleararvas can be measured with the rings In position on the plston after cleaning away any carbon deposits. Excessive Clearances may be overcome by fiting thicker piston rings, but the grooves will need to be ‘machined out to sur. Tis is a specialist's job ‘and must therefore be entrusted to Peugeot dealer or automotive machine shop. 5 If any ofthe pistons are excessively wor or damaged they must be renewed as a set Removal of tne pistons from the connecting rods whether for repait or renewal is a task Which must be entrusted to your Peugeot dealer or motor engineering specialist (608 Section 21). 6 If the engine has been using an excessive amount of oil, but no significant wear or ‘Getects can be found in the cylinder bores and/or the pistons and rings, consult your Peugeot dealer or motor engineering ‘specialist concerning the possibility offing & ‘ing expander to the ol control ings, or fting an alternative type of ol contro ng, 27 Connecting rods - ‘examination and renovation Hts 1 The connecting rods are not subject to wear but can, in the case of engine seizure, become bent or twisted. If any distortion is visible oF suspected, have the rods checked for alignment by your Peugeot dealer or motor ‘engingering specialist. A small amount of twist 27.3. Connecting rod oll squirt hole oF distortion of the rods can usually be straightened, but again tis must be entrusted to a specialist. If the rods are excessively ‘twisted, distorted or are damaged in any way they must be renewed as a set 2 Romoval of the pistons and gudgeon pins from the connecting rods is a specialist task (see Section 21), 3 Chock that the oll squirt hole is clear s 4 The camshaft lobes and bearing journals should be carefully examined for any indications of at spots, dp scoring pitting ‘breakdown of the surface hardening. any of these conditions exist the camshatt must ‘be renewed, together with a complete set of cam followers. 2'If only very slight scoring marks on the lobes are noticed, these can be removed by very gentie rubbing down with fine emery loth or an ail stone. The graatest care should De taken to keep the cam oroties smooth. 3 Removal of the camshatt bearings in the cylinder block can be carried out using the fallowing method. 4 First crive out the camshatt bearing sealing plug trom the ywhes! end bearing, using 3 tong tubular ait (Fig 1.10, ‘5 Removal of the front, rear and centre Camshaft bushes is best accomplsnes by the 28 Camshaft and camshatt bearings - examination and renovation Fig. 1.10 Removing the camshaft sealing plug (See 26)OHV Engine 115 use ofa length of threaded rod and nuts with suitable tubular distance pisces (Fig. 1.11). 6 Note the precise positioning of each Dearing bush before removal and ensure that te beanng seats are not damaged during the removal operation 1 Fit the new bearing bushes using the same rmathod as for removal, starting with the Centre one. It's essential that the bearing ol hole i in exact alignment withthe one driled inthe beanng seat ana marks should be made fn the edge of the bearing bush and seat before puling into positon. 8 Fita new camshatt front bearing sealing cap, 29 Cam followers and pushrods ~ examination and renovation 1 The cam followers (tappets) should be checked in their respective bores in the crankcase and no excessive side play should be apparent. The faces of the followers wich bear against the camshaft lobes should also have a clear smooth shiny surface. If they show signs of pitting or serious wear they should be renewed. 2 The pustrods should be checked for straightness by rolling them along a flat surface. Also check for wea of the ball end ‘ani locates nthe cam follower, and the cup fend that accepts the rocker adjusting ball. Fenew as necessary. 1 vinen the cylinder head is removed, ether in the course of an overhaul or for inspection ‘ot bores or valve conaition when the engine is inthe car t's normal to remove all carbon deposits from the piston crowns, cylinder head and valves. 2 This s best done using a scraper, but when working on the cylinder head and piston ‘crowns, take care not to damage the relatively {0 alloy in any way. 31.2 Valve seat refacing using an old valve {and carborundum paste Fig. 1.41 Camshaft bush removal using a threaded rod, nuts and distance pieces (ec 28) 2 When the engine is in the car, certain precautions must be taken’ when decarbonising the piston crowns in order to prevent aisioaged pleces of carbon fling into the interior ofthe engine which could cause damage to the cylinder bores, piston and tings, or if alowed into the water passages, damage to the water pump. Tum the engine ‘0 that the piston being worked on is at the top of its stroke and then mask off the adjacent cylinder bores and all surrounding trices with paper ana adhesive tape. Press (grease into the gap all round the piston to keep the carbon particles out and then scrape. all carbon away. When completed, carefully Clear out the grease around the rim of the pieton with a matchstick or something similar Bringing any carbon particles with i. Repeat the process on the other piston crown. It's rot recommended that a ring of carbon is eft round the edge of the piston on the theory that it wll aid cil consumption. This was valid inthe earlier days of long stroke, iow revving engines but modern engines, fuels and lubricants cause less carbon deposits anyway, and any left behind tends mereiy to Cause not spots 4 The valves are best cleaned using a rotary ware beush, 31 Cylinder head, valves and & Seaetae & meaaa g 1 Examine the cylinder head for signs of cracks around the valve seats or spark plug holes and for water erosion around the passages and outlets in the cylinder head face. Also check for distortion of the eylingor | Fig. 1.12 Valve seat angles (Sec $1) head face using a staight-edge, if any cracks are apparent the head must be renewed Minor erosion or distortion of the cylinder head face oan be rectified by having the face ‘skimmed by a motor engineering specialist or ‘machine shop. If this work is catied out, refer to the Spectications for the maximum amount (of metal that can be removed from the head face and note algo that a thicker gasket must be used on roassembly. 2 The valve seats should be examined for signs of pitting o edging. Sight pitting can be (ground away using carborundum paste and {an old valve (photo). New valves are specially plated and must not be used to grind in the seats. the valve faces are bum or cracked, new valves must be obtained. If the valve ‘seats require e-cutting ensure that the seat width and seat angle are maintained Fig. 1.12. 3 The rocker gear should be diemantiod and thoroughly cleaned of the sludge deposits, hich nermally tend to accurate ont. The gear Is dismantied by simply sliding the edestals, springs and rockars off the shafts (photo), The shafts may be removed from the Centre pedestal after drifting out the retaining ral pin. 44 The rocker arms should be a slide ft over the shaft with very itle play. If play is excessive, oF If ridges are apparent in the ‘hat, renew these components, Also check the domed ends of the rocker acjusting ‘screws for wear and renew any that are {eformad. The pad of the rocker that bears against the valve stem should also be ‘examined, i's normal to detect a slight wear Fidge using the edge of your fingernail f the ‘rage is visibly apparent then it nas penetrated the surface hardening of the pad and the rocker arm should be renewed. A very sight tidge can be dressed with an cistone '5 Refit the valve into its guide in the head and note # there is any sideways moversent which ‘denotes wear betwaen the stem and guide. Here again the degree of wear can vary. It ‘excessive, the performance of the engine can bbe noticeably affected and oil consumption Increased. Wears normally n the guide rather than on the valve stom but check a new valve In the guide if possible first. Valve guide ‘31.9 Check the rocker gear for excessive1916 OHV Engine 32.18 Separate the two halves ofthe oil ‘pump renewal isa tricky operation and should be lot to a Peugeot dealer. {6 Check tat the end face ofthe valve stern is not hammered’ or riged by the action of the rocker arm. Its, dress ft square and smooth s x 1 Separate the two halves of the oil pump ody and examine the gears and intemal wal ff the housing far scoring, pitting oF wear fidges. Check for excessive enatioat of the (ears using a straightedge and feeler gauges 235 shown (photos). Peugeot do not stipulate any allowabie wear tolerances forthe enaioat ff the gaars and i wil therefore be necessary to compare the amount of wear present against a new pump to assess if excessive woar i present. fn doubt, renew the pump ait 2 Femove the domed nut and sealing washer ‘and then. using an Allen key, unscrew the pressure relict valve plunger. Take out the plunger, spring and bal. Thoroughly clean away any sludge deposits from the relit valve {and then check the bal and housing for pitting ‘or ndging (photos) 2 It the of! pump or pressure relief valve are ‘wom oF in any way suspect, renew the pump oF worn parts as necessary. It is always a g0ed dea to renew the pump if the engine is being overnaulea or raconcitionea, particulary i has covered a high mileage, & 1 The two bushes in the cylinder block in which the ol pump/dipstick driveshaft rune Should be examined for wear by rafting the aft and checking for excessive side play Luniese checked when cismanting) 2 i wear nas taken place the bushes should 32 Oil pump - ‘examination and renovation 33 Ol pump driveshaft bushes ~ examination and renovation 3248 ‘and remove the gears to check Tor excessive wear ‘92.46 Checking the gears for excessive ‘endfloat 32.28 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plunger . be renawed. To remove them, craw each one: ut using a threaded rod, nuts, and distance piece as shown in Fig. 1.14 3.New bushes can be ‘fitted using the following procedure 4 Fit the shorter bush to the distributor side, palling tin tight to the machined surtace of the oyinder block. tis vita that the ol hole in ~—_ SS a 32.28... . to withdraw the ball and spring the bush aligns with the crankshaft bearing oll passage 55 Fit the bush to the oll pump side, again Using the threaded roa and nut method and avoid damage to the bush jst fited. There is ‘no need to algn the oll hols on this bush asi ‘opens into a circular ll chamber in the eylinder block, Fig. 1.19 Sectional view of the oll pump and driveshaft assembly (Sec $3) | a ° KS NX ; ASS PO lamar cnier 2 Iaier gear 5 Boy ‘ee ton 7 Driveshart 10 Drtregoar 3 Camshaft 71 Drivesnatt 9 Gheip bushesOHV Engine 1917 Fig. 1.14 Extracting the oll pump driveshaft bushes (Sec 33) 1 Roa 4 Nut 2 Pate 5 Mut 3 Seve A Shaft tush 6 Test the driveshaft inthe bushes for ease of rotation. A hard spot will indicate mis- ‘algrment or distortion. 34 Flywheel - ‘ ‘examination and renovation be” 4 The alutch tition dise mating surtace of the frwnee! should be examined for scoring. I"this is apparent then it should either be fxchanged for a new unt or ifthe scoring Is very ight may be skimmed. 2 The starter ring gear should be examined and if the teeth are worn or chipped, it must be renewed, To remove the ring, support the fywhee! {and crive off the ring gear using a bronze or steel ber Fg 1.19, ‘Take care not to damage the fywhee! locating dowels during tis operation or they \nllhave tobe renewed. 5 Toft a new ring gear requires heating the ‘ing to 220°C (428°F), This can be done by polishing four equal spaced sections of the Gear, placing it on a suitable heat resistant Surface (such as fire bricks) and heating it fveniy with @ blow lamp or torch unti the olshed areas tum a ight yetow tinge. Do not Overhet, or the hard wearing properties wil e lost. The gear has a chamfered inner edge wich should go against the shoulder when ut onthe flywheel. When hot enough, place 8 Ola gudgeon pin IM Side towards cistrbutor N Side towards ol pump the gear in position qulcky. tapping it home it necessary, and let it cool naturally without ‘quenching in any way. 1 Carefully examine the teeth of the timing ‘gears and the links of the chain for wear. Place the chain over the gears and ensure ‘that it ie a snug fit without slackness. Renew lay ofthe components where necessary. 2 The camshaft timing chain sprocket nas an anti-rattle band located in its central groove. Check this for deterioration and renew it if necessary (photo). 3 The ctankshatt front oil seal inthe timing cover should be renewed as a matter of ‘course, The old seal may be drited out using ‘2 hammer and a sultabie tube, of levered out with a screwdriver or stout bar. Tap a now sea! into position using a hammer and a blook (of wood, The lps ofthe seal must face toward the engine when installed (photo). 95 Timing gears, chain and cover - examination and renovation 36 Engine - reassembly (general) 1it is during the process of engine reassembiy that the job i either made a ‘success or false. From the word go there 92 Camshatt sprockst showing the anti- ‘atte band 35. Renew the timing cover oll seal Fig. 1.18 Drifting off the flywheel ring sgear (Sec 94) are certain basic rules which itis folly to Ignore, namely (@) Absolite coaniness. The werking area, tne components of he engine and the inanas of those working 0” the engine must be completly ree of gre and ot ne smar piece of carborundum dust or swat can an a bigend in no time, and ruil al te tine anc effort you have spent (2) Always, no mattor what the circumstances may be, use new gaskets, locking tabs sea, nyoa (stocking) tuts anc any other parts mantoned nthe Sections ints Chapter iis pintess fo dismanta an engine, spend conscerbie ‘money ard tie on it and thon wast a this forthe sak of something as sal as 2 fale ol saa. Doay the rebuilding necessary (6) Dom trish it The most sted and exponerced mechanic can eaiy make a triste fesse (©) Chock that ai ruts and bls are clean tnd in good contin and isely rene ai sping washers, ockwashers and tab Wwoshors as a matr of course. A supply Of clean engine of ana lean cots 2 ‘pe excess ol of your hands) and a torque spanner ao the ony things wich Should be requred in aceon toa the fools used in elsmanting the engine (©) The torave wrench san essential requirement when reassembling the Shine fan ransmssion! components This because the varius housings are manufactures trom atrium aioy and test this gives te advatage of ss weg, bo moans tat ne various fastenngs must be accurataytightaned 4 specied fo avo cistorton andor ‘Samage tothe component. 87 Engine - preparation for reassembly 1 Assuming that the engine has been completsly stripped for reconditioning and that the block is now bare, belore any1918 OHV Engine Fig. 1.16 Position of grooved and plain main bearing shells (Sec 38) ‘A Lower (cap) shells 8 Upper (cylinder block) shells © Timng cover enc 1 Fywhee! ena assembly takes place it must be thoroughty Claaned both inside and out 2 Clean out the oilways using a bottle brush, wire of other suitable implement, and blow rough with compressed air. Squirt some clean engine oll through to check that the oiways are clear 2 It the core plugs are defective and show signs of weeping, they must be renewed at this stage. To remove, carefully crive a punch through the centre of the plug and use the punch to lever the plug out. Clean the Sperture thoroughly and prior to fitting the new plug, smear the orice with sealant. Use 2 emall-headed hammer and carefully dive the new core plug into position with the convex side outwards. Check that it Is correctly seated on completion. As the components are assembled lubricate them with clean engine oil and use a sutabe sealant where applicable. 5 Make sure that al blind tapped holes are clean, with any oll mopped out of them. Tiss Decause tis possible fora casting to fracture when a bol screwed in owing to hyaraulic 6 Before fiting the retaining bolts, their ‘tweads must be cleaned and lightly oiled less otherwise stated of where a locking Compound or sealant is specie 96.4 Check that the crankcase and ollways fare clean prior to reassembly 38 Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting 4 Eneure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean ang all oltvays are cloar. A thin twist cil ia use for clearing the oiiways, oF possibie, they may be Blown out with compressed air Treat the crankshatt in the eame fashion, then inject engine olinto the ofways (photo 2 Wipe the boaring shell seats in the crankcase clean, then ft the upper halves of the new main bearing shells into their seats (photo) All upper half shells have oll grooves iin them but the cap shells differ in that numbers 2 and 4 have oll grooves, whilst hhumbers 1, 3 and 5 are plain shels. {98.2 Locate the main bearing upper shells, in the erankeast ‘grooves facing out 23 Note that ther isa tab on the back of each bearing shell which engages with a groove in the seating. 4 Wipe the seats in the main bearing caps Clean and ft the remaining sholls o ther seats (photo). 5 Fit the semi-ciouler thrust washors to each side of the centre main bearing in the rankcase, Retain the thrust washers with 2 Smear of grease and positon them vith te of {ooves facing outwards (photo) 6 Liberally ubricate the main bearing shells the crankcase and then carefully lower the crankshaft nto position (ohotos) 7 Lubricate the bearing shes inthe caps and than raft the caps and retaining bots to their ‘omrect locations in the crankcase (photos), 8 With all the caps In place, tighten the 136.68 Lubricate the bearings ‘38.68... then lower the erankshatt into position ‘and fit the main bearing capsOHV Engine 1*19 specified torque retaining bots progressively to the spectiag torque wrench setting (photo). Check the crankshaft for ease of rotation If new Bearing shells have been fited, it may be fairy st to tum, but there shoulé be no high spots, {9 Should the crankshatt be very sti totum o possess high spots, a most careful inspection Should be made - preferaaly by a skilled ‘mechanic - to trace the cause ofthe troube, It |e very setdom that trouble of this nature wil be experienced when fiting the orankshat 10 Using a screwarver, ease the crankshaft ‘uly forward and measure the andfoet, with feeler gauges, between the side of the crankshaft centre journal and the thrust washers. Ensure that the clearance is within the limits given in the Specifications. Oversize thrust washers are available (photo) 11 Position a new oil seal housing gasket, lightly smeared with jointing compound, on tne ear face of the crankcase. 12 Luorcate the lips of the ol seal and then carefully ease it over the crankshaft flange ang a twisting action (photo) 1 Refit the ol seal housing retaining bolts finger tight, rotate the crankshaft one fal tum to centralise the seal and then progressively tighten the bolts To the spectied torque rench setting, 39 Gudgeon pins - refiting As interference fit gudgeon pins are used (282 Section 21), this operation must be caries out by your Peugeot dealer or motor snginerng specialists 40 Piston rings - refitting 1 Shack that the piston ring grooves and (hays are thoroughly clean and unblocked. ston ings must always be fitted over the was of ne ston and never from the bottom, 2 The easiest metnod to use when fitting "ngs s to wrap a 0.38 mm (0.015 in) foeier huge round the top of the piston and place {38.10 Check the crankshatt endfloat using a feoler gauge the rings one at a time, starting with the bottom oi! contol ring, aver the feeler gauge (proto 2 The feeler gauge, complete with ring, can then be slid down the piston ovar the other piston ring grooves until the conect groove is reached. The piston ring is then sd gently off the feeler gauge into the orcove. 4 An alternative method is to fit the rings by holding them slightly open with the thumbs ‘and both of the index fingers. This method requires a steady hand and great car, a8 tis l2asy to open the ring too much and break it 5 The top compression ring and oll contro Fing may be fited ether way up; however the. second ring must be fted withthe word TOP uppermost (photo. (Fig. 1-17). 38.12 Fit the crankshaft rear oll seal 6 When all the rings are in position on the pistons, move them around to bring each ring ap approximately 120° away from the adjacent ring Fig. 1.18) 7 It special ol contro! rings are being fitted, follow the makers instrictions clesaly. 41 Piston and connecting rod SS assemblies - refitting HES 4 Clean the cylinder bores with a non-futty rag and then liberally lubricate them with engine ol 2 Apply clean engine ol tothe piston rings of a a eee Fig. 1.17 Piston ring identification (See 40) 40.5 Orientation and size mark on the top ‘piston ring Fig. 1.18 Space the ring gaps when fitted as indicated (See 40)4420 OHV Engine Fig. 1.19 Connecting rod orientation when fitting (Sec 41) A 0 groove towards camshaft sie 8 centiieaton marks No 1 piston and insert this piston connecting rod assembly into No 1 cylinder Bore (photo) 2 it i essential that the piston and rod assemblies are correctly orientated when Fited. with lubrication groove on the big-end face and the connecting rod and cap identty marks facing towards the camshaft side ofthe tnaine (Figs 1.19 and 1.20) (photo). 44 Make aure thatthe piston ring gaps ae stil Comectly staggered and then compress the rings using a piston ning compressing tool, ‘nose clip will serve as a ring (ie Sees =A isnot available. ‘A large dlameter worm drive {41.3 The lubrication groove on the connecting rod big-end side face fits ‘acing the camshaft side Fig. 1.20 Piston orientation when fitting. Slot C must face the timing cover end (Sec 41) '5 Now tap the top othe piston dawn through the ring compressor and into the cylinder using a black of wood or hammer handle {photo}. Guide the big-end of the connecting rod near to ts position on the crankshaft, faking care not to scratch the exanksin with the big-one bots. 6 Wipe the shell seat in the big-end of the Connecting rod clean, and the underside of the new shall bearing. Fit the shell into positon in the connecting rod wath its locating fongue engaged with the appropriate groove in the big-end 7 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with angine ol anc tun the crankshaft so that itis in ts most advartageous positon for the rod tobe drawn onto it 8 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the bearing 44.5 Tap the piston and rod down the bore whilst supporting the ring compressor “41.2 Inserting a piston and connecting rod ‘int its bor ccap clean, and then the underside of the new shel. Fit the shel into the cap. engaging the ‘hell tongue with tha groove in the cap. 8 Draw the big-end of the connecting rod ‘onto the crankpin, then fit the cap into position (photo). Make sure itis the correct ‘way around, then fit ew nuts. YO Tighten the nuts progressively to the specified torque wrench setting (photo) anc thon check that the crankshaft is stil free to rotate without tight spots. (A certain additional amount of resistance is to be expected trom the friction between piston rings and cylinder bore). 11 Repeat this procadure for the remaining piston/eonnecting rod assemles. 42 Camshaft, timing gears, chain and cover - refitting S 8 4 Liberally lubricate the camshatt bearings and insert the camshaft, taking care not to damage the bearings as the cam lobes pass through them iphotos) 2 Engage the camshaft thrust plate withthe ‘groove behind the camshaft fangs (phate), {and rait the retaining bolts, tightened to the Specified torque wrench setting (photo Knock up the lockwasher tabs (f fed). 3 Pull the camshaft fully forward and check the enatloat using feeier gauges inserted 47.9 Fit the connecting rod big-end bearing cap. 41.10... and tighten the cap retaining ‘bolts tothe specified torcue 42.1A Lubricate the camshaft bearings --OHV Engine 1°21 42.18... and fit the camshaft between the thrust plate and fange (photo). the enctoat is outside the speciied tolerance, various sizes of thrust pate are avalable, 4 Rotate the crankshaft until Nos 1 and 4 pistons ae at TDC. 5 Reiit the Woodrutt key to the slot in the Crankshaft and slide on the crankshaft sprocket (photo) 6 Temporarily position the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft and align the bolt holes. 7 Rotate the camshaft and sprocket until the Got on the edge of the sprocket is aligned betwen the two lines on the crankshaft sprocket 8 Remove the camshaft sprocket without rotating the camshaft and ift the timing chain over Both sprockets. Rafit the camshaft sprocket and check that te timing marks are stil in alignment, using a straight-edge if necessary (photo) Fg. 1.2). 9 eft the three camshaft sprocket retaining bolts and tighten to the specified torque wrench eating (photo). Knock up the tabs of the ockwashers (if use). 10 Lightly smear a new timing cover gasket with jonting compound and position it on the Cylinder block. Refit the timing cover and retaining bolts and then tighten the bolts to the specified torque (photos). Note that the joe mounting support is returned by the Upper botts, and this can be fitted at this sae 42.28... fit and tighten the retaining bolt ‘to the specified torque 42.108 Position a new gasket on the ‘endtace of the crankcase Fig. 121 Alignment of timing marks and sprockets (Sec 42), 42.3 Fit the camshatt sprocket and chain, aligning the timing marks on the sprockets 42:08... then fit the timing cover422 OHV Engine 143.2 Insert the oll pump driveshaft 43 Oi pump driveshaft 3 refit . ° 8 1 Temporaiy raft the crankshaft pulley and than Ttate he crake unt the notch on the uly algned wih the species BTOC man onthe ireng sale othe tring cover No" cylinder must be on its compression rote te te cam lobes for No eying i pont dowrwarcs F°Srear theo pum deveshst with enaine bi ard insert into ts bushes fom te ol ump sce of te oynderbock to). Stimnn the shat in poston, sige on the 49.5 Fit the distributor ariving dog with the slot positioned as shown 143.3 Fit the driven gear onto the criveshaft washer and driven gear from the distributor Sida ofthe cylinder block, ensuring that the flanged side of the gear faces outwars (proto). 4 Secure the gear and shat with the circlip fand thes check that the analoat ofthe sats as specified iphoto). S With the crankshaft positioned as described above (paragraph 1). slide the Gistributor driving dag onto the end of the Shaft, so that when installed the dog slot posttioned as chown (photo; three teeth ant Clockwise from vertical 6 Refit the distriouter mounting plate so that its boss is towards the timing cover and seoure with the retaicing bolts (photo) 43.4,..and secure it with the cirlip, 44 Flywheel and crankshaft pulley - reiting x 8 4 Place the flywheel in position on the crankshaft flange ang turn it as necessary Lntl all the offset bolt holes are alignes, 2 Apply a drap of thread locking compound to the retaining botts and then reft the bolts ‘and seating plate (ahoto) 3 Lock the flywheel using @ piece of angle iron and bar engaged in the ring gear, or a block of wood between the crankshaft and crankcase, 4 Tighton the flywheel retaining bolts in a Giagonal sequence to the specified torque wrench seting (photo) 8 Lubsicate the ips of te timing cover ol seal and slide on the crankshaft pulley, 6 Refit the retaining bolt and tighten to the specie torque wrench setting (photos) 48 Sump -refiting 1 Ensure that the mating surfaces of the ump and crankcase are clean, smear bot” sides of the new gasket with jointing ‘Compound and position it on the crankcase 44.2 Fit the flywheel and retaining bolts. “Apply locking compound to the bolt threads “444 Tighten the retaining bolts to the ‘specified torque ottOHV Engine 1#23 45.2 Refit the sump main body 2 Place the sump main body over the gasket fand secure with the internal and external fetaning bots (photo), using thread locking compound, 3 Smear the oll pick-up/strainer assembly {eeket with jointing compound, postin it on fhe sump. and elit the pick-up/strainer ascerbiy (photos) 4 Finally refit the baseplate, again using a new gasket with jointing compound, and Secure witn the retaining bolts, correctly tightened (photo, 46 Valves - refitting ® = 8 1 ace new ol sais ovr the valve guides oro, $ Uneray cat tne vae stems and thon fuer tnt to ie vave gues om which trey wor removen prea) 3 ft he ower spr st valve sng and tormg cop over te ave stm and hen poston the spring compressor over the ont (phos) ‘Compress ine spring sui ta be sipped into place nthe (fore mach tho topo te ve sem (ea, Now tase te spring compressor, 5 fepet ts operon tal ag vaites tare buen aoourbied nto te cinched “45.34 Locate the oll pick-up gasket 45.38 Assomble the pick-up and strainer unit 4530 e f then fititinto position 46.8. ‘pring and upper cup ..1424 OHV Engine 46.4... then locate the compressor and fit the collets 6 With all the valves installed, genty tap the 199 of the valve stems once oF twice, using a soft-faced mallet, to seat the cotters and centralise the components. 47 Cylinder head - refiting HE 1 Botorerefiting the cylinder head, insert the cam follower, iberally lubricated, into their eniginal bores inthe eyinger block (photo) 2 Make sure that the two alignment dowels are in postion on the cylinder block face and then wipe the black and cylinder head faces with 2 petrol-mostened rag. Allow time to air ry (photo) 47.44 Position cylinder head gasket with ALTO marking uppermost 437.6 Locate the pushrod into their original positions 447-4 Fit the cam followers into thei ‘original positions 3 Make suve that the head gasket Deing fitted is of the correct type. if any machining operations hava been carried out on the o¥linder head face, 2 gasket of the correct, thekness must be used (see Specifications). 4 Locate the new cylinder head gasket in postion on the bioek, ensuring thatthe word ALTO is visibieon the upper surtace (photos “The gasket should normaly be fitted dy, but it there has been evidence of water leaks from the previous head gaskel, ori there s sight froding of the aluminium face around the water passages, then a thin fm ofa suitable ‘sealant (eg Hylomat) should be applied to both sides ofthe gasket. This is a non-seting Jointing compound, paticuary resistant to ol water and neat, and will also provice protection against further erosion of the head. 47.48 New cylinder head gasket fitted into position 1.22 Correct reassembly of the rocker ‘gear (See 47). 47.2 Alignment dowels must be securely fitted Reter to Fig. 1.8 and chee ‘ypeis comect. 8 Lower the cylinder head gently inta positon ‘on the eylnder block and engage the locating dowels (ahoto} 6 Fit the pushrods in thei cotrect locations, ‘carefully gaging that lower ends in the cam followers (photo. 7 ifthe rocker shaft nas been dismantled fr removal of worn components, it should be reassembled with the parts fitted in the Sequence shown in Fig. 1.22. Note that the shafts are assemoled with ther plugged ends facing outwars, {8 Make sure thatthe rocker pillar alignment ‘dowels are in position and lower the rocker ‘gear into place over the dowels (photo). Male ‘sure that the adjusting screw Ball on act at the gasket 47.8 Refit the rocker gear assemblyOHV Engine 1925 Fig. 1.23 Tightening sequence for cylinder ‘head retaining bolts (Sec 47) rocker arm engages with postrod. 9 Refit the cylinder head retaining bolts, having frst cleaned their threads with a wire ‘ruth Ol the threads aso, 10 Using a torque wrench, tighten the cylinder nead bolts progressively and evenly, in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.23, to the torque wrench setting given in the Specit- cations (photo), but nota that the tightening procedure forall OHV engine models must be fas follows whenever the cylinder head is being refed: (a) Tighten tothe Stage 7 torque 1b) Tighten tothe Stage 2 torque (6) After the engine has been restarted, run it up toits operating temperature (but do at exceed 2000 rpm), then switch it off and alow i coo! fora minimum period or6 houre (© Fira! igntning: Loosen each head bolt in turn and retghien it to the Stage 3 torque (n he spectied arder of sequence. eadjust the valve clearances its respective 48 Valve clearances - x checking and adjusting S 8 1 The importance of correct rocker arm/valve Stem clearance cannot be ovar-strassad 35 italy aflects the performance ofthe engine. if he clearances are set too wide, the efficiency 48. Adjusting the valve-to-rocker arm ‘clearance 47.10 Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the ‘specified torque ofthe engine is reduced as the valves open later and close earlir than intended. If, however, the clearances are oo tight, there is 4 danger that as the valve stems expand with heat there will be insufficient clearance to allow the valves to close properly. This will cause loss of compression and possible bburring ofthe valve head and seat 2 Valve clearances must only be adjusted With the engine cold. With the engine in the car, access to the rockers is gained after removing the air cleaner, as described in Chapter 3, and the rocker cover as described in Section 12 of this Chapter. The crankshaft can be rotated for adjustment of the clearances by engaging @ socket on the crankshaft puley bot. It is important that the clearances are ‘dusted only when the appropriate piston is fat TOC on the compression stroke. The following table shows the order in which the valves should be adjusted (which also avoids turing the crankshaft more than necessary) Valves rocking ‘Adjust valves (on cylinder No ‘on cylinder No ‘ 1 2 3 7 4 3 2 4 Tum the crankshaft in the normal direction (of rotation and oaserve the movement of the fexnaust valves. (Counting from the fywee end, exhaust valves are Nos 2, 4, 5 and 7) When one is moving upward to its closed postion, continue turning slowly until th inet valve onthe same cylinder just starts to open This is the “valves rocking’ position. The piston inthe appropriate cylinder shown in the. fable is now at TOG on the compression stroke and its valve clearances can be checked and it necessary adjustes, 5 insert a fooler blade of the specified thickness into the gap between the valve stom and the rocker arm. The blade should be a firm sliding ft 6 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the hexagon locknut on the rocker arm, then ‘screw the adjusting screw in or out as necessary until the feoler biade is a firm siding fit (ehoto), Hold the adjueting screw to Prevent it turning further and tighten the locknut, then recheck the clearance. Repeat the eperation if necessary 7 Check the adjacent vaive ofthat cyinder in ‘the same way and then repeat the procedure nti all ight valves have been adjusted BI the engine is in the car, raft the rocker over on completion, using a new gasket if the ol one was damaged during removal, and then the alr cleaner assembly (photo), 49 Engine ancillary components refitting 41 Begin by refiting the clutch assembly to the flywheel. Full datas of the fiting procedure and centralisation of the clutch ‘ction disc ar given in Chaptar 8. 2 Place 2 new gasket, lightly coated with Jointing compound, in position on the water pump housing and then refit the pump and Fetaining botts. With te pump in position reft the pulley, and the pump-to-timing cover water nose. (Refer to Chapter 2 ‘or full detail, 3 Fit the altemator mounting bracket and plate (phot) 4 The alternator and drivebelt can be fitted {and adjusted at this stage or later after the ‘engine is fitted. Reler to Chapter 12 for details 5 Position new gaskets on both sides of the 48.8 Refiting the rocker cover (note new gasket) 40.3 Refit the alternator mounting bracket ‘and plate1926 OHV Engine 49.64 Reassombie the oll pump... fuel pump insulator block. Hold the block i place on the engine and refit the fuel pump, ‘ensuring thatthe operating arm goes over the fcentrc, not under i. Secure the jump with the two Botts, 6 Liberally lubricate the oil pump gears and the insige of the housing. Place a new gasket Detwesn the two halves of the pump bedy dnd join them tegather. Using another new gasket refit ie pump to the cylinder block nd secure withthe retaining bolts (photos). 7 Smear clean engine ol onto the -ubber seal of a new of fiter anc erew the far onto ite housing on the oll pump (photo). Tighten ‘he fiter by hand only. Do not use any tools 49.68 ... locate the new gasket and fit the ‘pump unit. 8 Refi the distibutor to the angine, using the procedure described in Chapter 4 to ensure that the ignition tming # corset. 9 Fofit the oll pressure switch using a new washer (photo) 10 Fit the three-way coolant connector to the side of the sump using a new gasket smeared with sealant photo) 11 Refit the inlet manifole (together with carburettor if applicable) and reconnect the Coolant hoses, Use a naw maniold gasket, 42 Stick anew gasket onto the thermostat housing, engage the housing with the nose from the inlet manifold and refit the bolt Secure the hose clip in position. Fit the down hose between the inlet manifold and the thyes-way connector. 13 If not already tited, locate the right-hand ‘engine mounting brackst and its suppor plate {as shown (photos) 44 Rel the driveshaft bearing/torque reaction ink bush housing (photo) 48 elit the exhaust manifold using a new gasket. Ensure that both mating faces are lean before ting 416 Rai the fault diagnosis socket retaining 7 The engine Is now reassembled and ready for reconnection te the gearbox and reiting to the car 48,194 Right-hand engine support bracket 48.98... and support plate 149.14 Driveshaft bearing/torque reaction Tink bush housingOHV Engine 1°27 50 Engine - reconnecting to gearbox Af the engine and transmission wore jemoved from the car as a unit, the two {ssembles must now be reconnected before beng refed to the car 2 The reconnecting procedure isa straight- forward reverse of the removal sequence. On ro account alow the weight of the gearbox to hang unsupported on the input shat. | ‘Wattrcuty is experienced ‘engaging the manual HINT gearbox input shatt splines, ‘engage 2 goar by moving the shift rod and then rtate the ‘crankshaft slightly. This should align the clutch friction disc and input shaft ‘splines and allow the shaft to enter the ‘se. & 8 1 Refiting the engine is a reversal of the removal procedure. A litle trouble taken in {geting the engine propery slung (so I takes ip a suspended angle similar to its final postion wil pay of when it comes to locating {he engine mountings. Note the following special points when reiting the engine and angmission unit tothe ca (@) Ensure that al loose leads, cables, hoses, (te. are tucked out ofthe way. Iti ‘sy 0 trap one and cause adattional work atte te engine is rated in the car (6) Anassstant wil be requred to help quae the power unit into positon (©) Ft the soecia washer fo the contre stud fn the laf-hand engine mounting, This ‘washer prevants the engine from pacing ‘he mounting under excessive tension Tighten tre mounting nuts 10 the specified torque settings (©) Use a final cnve oi seal protector when ‘nserting the right-hand driveshaft, Remove the protector when the ofveshaft ‘sft. See Chapter 7 tor fll details (©) Adjust the cutch cable with reference to Chapter § (Adjust the trot cable with reference to Chapter 3 Tipe the exnaust Range boits as esendea in Chaoter 2 Ensure thatthe heater nose Is located in (he strap attached tothe bracket on aitemator upper retaining bat, This is necessany to keep the nose clear of the ‘ttemator aive pulley (Fig. 1.24) ?) Refi and bleed the cooing system as eseribed in Chapter 2 51 Engine - refitting ” © Top up the engine ane! gearbox of ovels (se0 Chapters 7 ana 6) 52 Engine - initial start-up after major repair or overhaul Hh 41 Make sure that the battery is fully charged {and that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are replenished. 2 ifthe fuel system has been dismantlad, it ‘vil requite several revolutions of the engine fon the starter motor to pump petrol to the ‘carburettor. it will help to remove the spark plugs. which wil enable the engine to turn Ever much easier, and enable oll to be pumped around the engine before starting it 2 Reiit the spark plugs and as soon as the fngine fires and runs, Keep it going at a fast tickover only (no faster) and bring it up to formal working temperature 44s the engine warms up, there wil be odd srrels and some smoke from parts getting hot ana ourning off all deposits. Look for water or oil leaks which will be obvious if Serious. Check also the clamp connection of the exhaust pipe to the marifold as these do hot aiways find thew exact gastight position SPACER BRACKET CLEARANCE Fig. 1.24 Heater hose arrangement to clear alternator and drivebelt (Sec 51) until the warmth and vibration have acted on them, and it's almost certain that they will reed tightening futher. This should be done, ‘of course, with the engine stationary '5 When the angine running temperature has been reached, adjust the idling speed as ‘eseribed in Chapter 3 @ Stop the engine and wait afew minutos to ‘see any lubricant or coolant leaks. 7 Boad test the car to check that the timing is Correct and that the engine is ging the necessary smoothness and power. Do not face the engine. It new bearings. and or pistons and rings have been fitted, it shoule be treated as a new engine and run in at reduced revolutions for 500 miles (800 kr, 2 Re-tighten the cylinder head bolts, with the fengine cole, after the frst 1000 miles have been covered. tis best to slacken each bolt 74. tum to break the ‘stiction’ before tightening. Follow the tightening sequence shown in Fig. 1.23 and check the valve ‘clearances on completion 9 Also after the first 1000 miles, is a good idea to change the engine cl and iter many ew engine parts have been fitted. This is because the small metal particles produced by new components bedding in to each other wil be crculating inthe ol, of trapped in the fier.1#28 OHC Engine Part B: OHC engine 53 General description The single overhead camshaft (HC) ‘engine covered in this Part of Chapter 1 is of litre capacity. A 1.9 litre variant is described in Chapter 13. "The engine is a four-cylinder (nine) four stroke, water-cooled type with a single overhead camshat “The engine is mounted transversely and inclined at an angle of 30° rom vertical Wet cylinder liners are used and the crankshaft runs in five main bearings. ‘Camshatt drive is by toothed bett. The belt is tensioned by a spring-loaded wheel and also drives the coolant pump. The camshaft Operates directly on bucket tappsts; valve Clearance adjustment is by shims inserted Between the tappet and the valve stem. The Glstrbutor fs criven directly from the tal ofthe camshat “The ol pump is located in the sump and is chain driven from the erankshatt 54 Routine maintenance “The main procedures for the OHC engine variants ara in general the same as those Fig, 1.05 Side and end section views of the OHC engine (Sec 53) described for the smaller engine OHV variants in Section 2 of this Chapter. The dipstick and rain plug locations applicable to the OHC engine are shown in the accompanying photos. ‘55 Lubrication system - description ‘The ol pump is located in the sump and is cchain driven from the crankshaft. A forced 1d lubrication system is employed. Ol from the pump passes to the ol fiter then to the of ‘gallery. crankshaft anc camshaft. The valve Stems are lubricated by ol retuming from the ‘camshatt to the sump. The ol! pump chain land sprockets are lubricated by ol! in the Sump, Fig, 126 shows the lubrication system ‘rout round the engine 156 Oil iter - removal and refitting 41 The ol fter fe located on the inlet maniold sid of tha angine the lower sie face of the rankease. The fiter mast be renewed at the Spectieg intervals (see Routine Maintenance at the front ofthe manua). 2 Removal and renewal ofthe ol titer‘ the 54.1 Engine oll dipstick location ~ ‘OHC engine (SR) ‘54.18 Engine oil drain plug removal ~ ‘OHC engineOHC Engine 1+29 same 2s that described forthe smaller engine Narants, therefore refer to Section 4. For tecess, remove the engine undertray and tena the iter rom underneath (photo) 57 Major operations possible with the engine in the car ‘The folowing operations are possibie withthe ‘egne in the cr. Vane clearances checking and adjustment Camshaft arvebelt renewal Camshaft removal and refting hier head removal and refting | Sump and oi pump removal and reiting Sg-end renewal fatter removal of sump) Paton and connecting rod assembles removal ana retitng after removal of sump and sn ie Ps ora and reiting of engine mountings Famoval and refiting of major anclary tems such as inetiexnaust manifolds, starter ‘ator, water pump. ef ch and fywnee! removal and rfiting (ater remover of wansmmission) 58 Major operations requiring The foliowi __ihe toliowing operations can only be “aed out wth the engine removed from he Cae bearings renewal watt removal ana reiting Fig. 1.26 Engine lubrication circuit - OHC engine (Sec 55) 1 Although the manufacturers do net recommend that the timing belt be renewed at Any specific period, it is advisable to renew the timing belt every 36 000 miles, or whenever the engine Is dismantled’ for fveraul and iis known thatthe drivebelt has Covered a high mileage. Ifthe cnvebett comes into contact with ol or grease at any time must be renewed irrespective ofits age. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Remove the alternator dvebet, 44 Remove the inner shiald from the right- hang wheal arch and wedge the radiator bottom hoee under the sump. 5 Remove the shield from the camshaft sprocket. ‘58 Camshaft (timing) drivebelt - removal and refiting (engine in car) Ps A '59.6 Timing dowels in position - shown with engine removed for clanty ‘56.2 Engine oil filter location - OHC engine {6 Tum the crankshaft until the dowe! hole in the pully is at about 12 o'clock and the hole ‘nthe camshaft sprocket is at about 7 o'clock In this position a 10 mm dowel should pass through each hole and ino the ting recess behind. Verify this and then remove the dowels (photo), Note that there are thr holes inthe crankshaft pulley spaced at 120" intervals but only one hole fs 10 mm in ciameter, the other two are larger 7 Remove the clutch bottom shield. Have an assistant jam the starter ring gear while the Crankshaft pulley bolt is undone. This bot is, ‘ery taht. Do not jam the pulley by means of the timing dowel: damage wil resut. Remove the bolt ang washer. {8 Ghack thatthe 10 mm dowels wil stil enter the timing holes: acjust the crankshaft position f necessary by means of the startor, fing gear, Remove the crankshaft pulley retniaving the Woodrut key its loose. {8 Remove the plastic covers rom the front of tha camshaft drvebelt. Note the location of the various botts, 40 Siacken the two nuts on the front of the: rivebelt tensioner and the single nut at the rear, Use a spanner on the 6 mm square end ff the tensioner cam spindle to turn the cam to the horizontal position and so compress the tensioner spring, Tighten the cam locknut (Photo 11 Remove the camshaft drivebelt, taking Gare not to kink tor contaminate i with OB it Is to be re-used. ‘59.10 Turing the tension cam spindle130 OHC Engine ‘59.12 Line on bett aligns with mark on sprocket 12 Commence refiting by positioning the batt on the crankshalt sprocket, then reiting the pulay and verifying the correct postion of te crankshaft by means of the dowel. (Qoserva the arrows on the belt showing the irection of rotation, and the timing lines Which aign with marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets) (phot) 13 Fit the belt to the camshaft sprocket, round the tensioner and to the coolant pump socket {4 Release the tensioner cam locknut and tum the cam downwards to release the spring. Tighten the locknut and the tensioner 15 Remove the timing dowels and turn the crankshaf through two full tums inthe normal Giection of rotation. Tum the {60.58 Camshaft sprocket locked with a 410 mm rod (or dil as inthis case) 159.14 Drivebelt tensioner front nuts further to bring Ne 1 piston to TDC on the fring stroke 16 Slacken the tensioner front nuts and the cam lockru, then cetghten ther, 47 Tum the erankshatt further and make sure that the timing dowels can stil be inserted, if not, remove the drivebelt and stat again 48 ‘At this point, the remaining procedure depends on whetner a new timing belt has bean fitted. Ifthe old timing belt is refitted, remove the crankshaft pulley and proceed from paragraph 23, but ignore the alternator rivebatt ramoval reference. 49 If anew Delt nas been fitted, it must be run in and retensioned as folows. 20 Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the Specified torque, then refit anc tension the alternator drivebelt. Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket cover. 21 Run the engine up to operating temperature, incicated by the cooling fan Cperating, than stop i anc allow it ta cool for at east two hours 22 Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC positon, Not oylinder firing, then slacken and ratighten the tensioner ruts once mor. 23 Remove the alternator drivebelt and the Cranksnatt pulley, tit and sacure the plastic ‘covers, then refit the pulley and tighten its bot to the specified torque. Refit and tension the ‘alternator crivebet. 24 Check the ignition timing and adjust it necessary, 60.4 Lift out the camshaft lubrication manifold 60 Camshaft -removaland Ss refitting (engine in car) s 1 Remove the camshaft drivebelt as eserived in Section 59. 2 Remove the camshaft cover. For ease of ‘access, remove the distributor cap and HT leads, ar cleaner and brake servo vacuum 2 Remove the distributor, as described in Chapter 4 4 Remove the camshaft lubrication manifold (photo). 5 Lock the camshaft sprocket (og with a timing dowel - see previous Section), and Femove the sprocket retaining bolt. Remove the sprocket ang the cover plate behind it lamove the thrust plate photos 6 Progressively slacken the camshaft boaring cap securing nut. Make ident'ying marks if necessary, then remove the caps. Be prepared for the camshaft to spring upwards. Remove the camshaft (snot) 7. Commence reiting by making sure that the Crankshatt is in the correct (dowelle) position if nat, move it to this position to avoxd possible pistor/valve contact. @ Lubricate the camshaft Dearing journals wth clean engine ol then ft the camshaft ito position. On carburettor models ited with @ mechanical fuel pump, push the pump ‘operating fod in as the camshatt is fited {60.58 Undo the retaining screw and remove the camshaft thrust plate 60.5 60.6 Removing the camshat (eylinder head ‘removed in this instance)OHC Engine 1¢31 160.8 Tighten the camshaft bearing cap ‘nuts to the specified torque Luoncate and ft the camshatt bearing caps to their orginal positions as noted during removal. When fitting the No 1 bearing cap, ‘smear the joint and lower mating faces with sealant, Tighten the cap ruts progressively 10 the specified torque. Refit and secure the thrust plate (photo) 9 Fita new oil sea to the sprocket end of the camsratt 40_ Refit the sprocket rear cover plate, locate Ineomactly with 2 10 mm dows and tighten its fastenngs (photo). Ft the camshaft sprocket dowel it and tighten its securing bott to the pected torque. 41 Check and if necessary adjust the valve cearances as described in Section 62 32 Refit the lubrication manifold and sroutor 13 Rafi the camshatt cover, HT leads and astnbutor cap, ar cleaner and brake servo 14 lft the carmshaft drvebelt (Section 59) 61 Cylinder head -removal and refitting (engine in car) x g 1 Disconnect the battery earth lad. 2 Drain the engine coolant as described in Chapter 2 3 Remove the timing belt as described in 1. Torque reaction link and lower engine ‘mounting 160.10 Locate the cover plate with a 10 mm ros 4 Remove the ar cleaner unt as described in Chapter 3 '5 Remove the dstbutor cap and leads then the cistnbuter referring to Chapter 4 for dstais 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the engine ungertay then unbolt and detach the engine torque reaction link from the lower engine mounting (photo 7 Unscrew and remove tha right-hand engine mounting rubber retaining nut (photo) 8 Position a jack under the sump with @ protector or suitable piece of wood located on the lack saddle to avoid damaging the sumo. Faise the engine about inches (70 to 80 mm) 30 thatthe two bolts securing the right-hand ‘mounting bracket to the cylinder head can be removed, then lower the engine to its original positon, 8 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head noting their fiting locations. Mark them to avoid confusion 40 Referring to the appropriate Sections in Chapter 3 disconnect and remove the following (as appicabl) (a) Carourettor ana init manifold (©) Fuel injectors, fuel teed tube rail and niet manifold 11 Unbott and dotach the exhaust downpipe fom the exhaust manifold, if required the ‘exhaust manifold can be removed together wth, oF separate from the cylinder hoad 42 Disconnect all electrical leads from the cylinder nead and nate ther connections Srp fe) 317 Reto ng ng SIRE Fig. 1.27 Oylinder head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 81) 49 Disconnect the oil fiter spout and the engine all dipstick guide tube location bolt from the cylinder head (bulkiead side) 44 Unbolt and remove the diagnostic socketretainer. 45 Remove the camshaft cover rom access to the cylinder head bolts. Loosen the head bolts in a progressive sequence inthe reverse ‘order of that shown for tightening (Fig. 127) Fomove the bots 46 Betore removing the cylinder head tho following must be noted. The cylinder hoad is positioned during assembly by means of two ‘dowels. When remaving the cylinder head its ‘most important rot to if it directly from the cyinder Block; it must be twisted sight. This action prevents the cylinder liners trom sticking to the cylinder head face and being lited with it, thus breaking their bottom seas, Before the cyinder head can be twisted, the dowel at the flywheal end must be tapped down flush with the top of the eyinder block, Using a dnft. Tap the cylinder heaa at the fywhee! end to twist it free. 47 Fit oyinder liner clamps, oF large washers secured with nuts and bots, to keep the liners in postion (photo). the liners are disturbed, the engine wil have to be removed for new seals 10. fied, 18 Before reiting the cylinder head, ensure that the joint faces are clean, also the bolt hole threads. If possible, clean the threads with @ suitable 11 x 60 mm thread tap. Commence refitting by fitting the dowels to {51.17 Cylinder liners clamped with ‘washers and bolts1932 OHC Engine | 161.18A Dowel retained with @ nail or rod ‘on its underside the cylinder block. Keep the fywhee! and dowel raised by inserting a 5 mm punch or large nail trough the hole in the front of the block (photo). Remove the liner clamps. Ensure that the new plastic fiter is in its locaton port (photo) 49 Fit the new gasket, dry, wth the tab at the fiywnee! end. Lower the cylinder head into position, making sure that it mates with the ‘owes, Remove the punch or ni 20 Fit tne cylinder head Dots, thelr threads ‘lean and lightly olled. Remember to fit the spacer to the bolt above the coolant pump (Bott number 8) (photo) 21. Progressively tighten the bots inthe order shown in Fig. 1.27 to the Stage 1 specified torque 22 Raise the engine sightly and refit the two bots which secure the righthand mounting bracket to the oyinder head. Tighten these botts and slacken the ane which hoids the ‘same bracket fo the engine block. Lower the engine and tighten the right-hand mounting ft and the lower mounting rubber nut anc bot 23 Siacken cylinder head bolt No_1, then immediately retighten It to the Stage 2 pected torque, Tighten further by the angle specified. Repeat forall the bots, following the tgntening sequence (photo). 24 Check the valve clearances and adjust if necessary (Section 62). After the engine is festarted follow the check procedures in Section 94 {61.188 Oil iter gauze location in cylinder ‘head ollway 25 Refit the remaining components in the reverse order of removal 26 Refill and bleed the cooling system (Chapter 2) 27 Stan the engine and warm it up until the ‘coating fan outs in, then switch off and allow it 10.600 for atleast two hours. 28 Retighten the cylinder head bolts as escribed in paragraphs 22 and 23 then recheck the valve clearances. If Torx type Gylinder nead bolts are ited, note the Sitferent final tightening angle, and also that no subsequent re-tightening is required (see Chapter 13, 29 It-a new camshaft drivebelt has been fitted, retansion it as described in Section 59, Paragraph 19 0°, 30 Tighten the engine mounting bracket bot. Vaive clearances - checking 41 The valve clearances must be checked with the engine cold; therefore do not run the tengine for a minimum period of two hours prior to making the checks. 2 Detach the distributor cap and the spark plug leads. 62 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment Fig. 1.28 Driving cylinder head dowel down ‘lush with block (Sec 61) 13 Remove the camshaft cover trying not to ‘damage the gasket 44 Prepare to rotate the crankshaft, ether by Jacking up one front whee! and turning the ‘wheel with 4th of Sth gear engaged, or with a ‘spanner on the crankshaft pulley bott. The Crankshaft willbe easier to rotate ifthe spark plugs are first removed. '5 Have ready a pencil and paper to record the ‘measured clearances. 6 Turn the crankshaft until the cam lobe nearest the pulley end of the engine is ointing vertically upwards. Use feeer gauges fo measure the clearance between the base of the cam and the tappet (photo). Record the 7 Repeat the measurement for the other seven valves, turning the crankshaft as necessary 20 that the cam lobe in question is ‘ways verticaly upwards 8 Calculate the difference bet measured clearance and the {See Specifications), Note that the value for inlet valves cferent from that for exhaust. Counting from either end of the engine, the valve sequence is Exhaust - inlet - inlet Inet Inlet - Exhaust Exhaust ~ Exnaust - 9 It any clearance measured is outside the specified tolerance adjustment must be carted out as described below. ‘thin tolerance, refit 161.20 Fit and progressively tighten the cylinder head botts to the Stage 1 torque ‘Setting. Note spacer location (arrowed) ‘the Stage 3 cylinder head bolt tightening ‘angle, Dise is fixed and pointer rotatesOHC Engine 1633 Fig. 1.29 Valve clearance is measured at point J and altered by selective thickness shim (4) (Soc 62), the camsnatt cover, using a new gasket if necessary. Note the copper washer under the baat at the timing bet end, Valve clearances - adjustment 11 Remove the camshaft as described in Section 60, 42 Lif off a tappet and its shim. Be careful that the shim does not fall out of the tappet. (Gear the shim and measure its thickness with amicrometer (photos), 13 Refer to the clearance recorded for the valve concemed, ifthe clearance was larger than specified thickar stim must be fited: the clearance was 100 small a thinner shim must be fted Sample calculation - clearance too large: ‘Desired clearance (A) 0.20 mm Measured clearance (8) 0.28 mm Diference (6-A) = + 0.08 mm (Orginal shim thickness 2.62 mm FRequred shim thickness 262 + 0,08 = 2.70 mm ‘Sample calculation - clearance too sma ‘esrad clearance (4) 0.40 mm Measure clearance (5') 0.23 mm Diference (B'-A) = 0.17 mm ‘Original ahi thickness 2.86 mm Required snim thickness 2.88 -0.17 = 269mm 14 Shims are avaliable in thicknesses trom 1.880 to 4.000 mm, in steps of 0.028 mm in the midale of the range and at the ends in eps of 0.075 mm. Clean new shims before ‘measuring o iting them, 15 Repeat the operations on the other Tappets and shims, keeping each tapoet ‘cette so that it can be refitted in the same Doston, 18 when reascoring ol the shim ad tit on the valve stom, then oil the tappet and loner it smocthy into postion. If the tappet is ‘asec at any stage the shim may be 17 han all the tappets are in postion with their shims, ret the camsnaft, Check the valve cesrances before reiting the camshaft ‘ede in case a mistake has been made ‘0 the camsnatt has to be removed again. toh 162.124 Lift off the tappet 63 Engine - removal methods Reter to Section 7, The engine and tranemission removal and refitting methods ‘are the same as forthe OHV variants, 64 Engine/transmission - removal 1 The removal procedures for the OHC ‘engines are much the same as those ‘Goscribed for the OHV engine variants in Section 8, Therefore follow the procedures ‘given but make allowances for diferences ‘Between the two angine types with tems such ‘as coolant hose and wiring connectors. 2 On fuel injection mode's ignore references made to the carburettor and its associated Components and remove or disconnect (as ‘2pplicabia) the following: wih reference to Chapter 3 where necessary Throttle cable em the trate body Aireteaner unit Air low sensor unt Throtie smith leads connection Supplementary air device and temperature ‘sensor leads Pressure regulator and fuel supply hoses {85 Engine - separation from transmission x +1 Assuming the engine has been removed Complete with the transmission unit, itis necessary to separate the two units before ismantiing operations on the engine can 2 Unbolt and remove the starter motor a8 ‘eserived in Chapter 12. 3 Remove the remaining engine-to- transmission bolts and note the position of ‘any anailary ems whien may be secured by the bots, such as nase retaining cps. 4'Suppor the engine and pull the {62.128 Measuring the thickness of a shim ‘using a micrometer transmission away from it. Do not allow the weight of the tranemission to hang on the input shaft during withdrawal of the transmission, Recover any 10088 location dowels. 666 Engine - dismanting (general) Refer to Section 19 ofthis Chapter 67 Engine ancillary components = removal Reterto Section 11 ofthis Chapter, 68 Cylinder head - removal {engine out of car) § 4 Slacken the ten cylinder head bots, "working inthe reverse sequence of that used ‘when tightening (Fig. 1.27). Remove the bolts and washers. 2 Remove the cylinder head. Refer to Sec tion 61, paragraph 16. Fit liner clamps i It ls not proposed to Temove the pistons anc liners. See Sec: tion 61, paragraph 17. 69 Timing covers, timing belt ‘and associated components = removal 1 Unbot ane remove the crankshaft pulley Jam the flywheal teeth when undoing the pallay bolt to stop the crankshaft rotating 2 Remove the camshaft drivebelt covers, nating the location of the various sizes of bot 13 Unboit and remove the camshaft cover. 4 Rotate the crankshaft by means of the flywheel until a 10 mm diameter rod can be passed through the hole in the camsnatt ‘Sprocket and into the timing acess. Nos 1 and 4 pistons are now at TOC.1934 OHC Engine 5 Release the camahaft drivebottonsioner by slackening its nuts (two at the front and one behind the front plate) and using the square fend of the cam spinal to bring the cam into a horizontal poston {6 Remove the camshaft drivebet taking care not to kink t and noting ts deection of travel itis to be re-used, 7 Unbott and remove the camshaft civebelt {8 Remove the bet se covers and crankshaft sorocket. Recover the Woodrut Key. ‘9 Unbot and remave the camshaft sprocket Restrain the sprocket trom tuming if necessary using the 10 mm diameter rod inserted through the timing hole in the ‘sprocket (see photo 60.5) 40 Unbott and remove the engine mounting bracket, he camshaft sprocket backplate and the coolant puma. 70 Flywheel - removal Refer to Saction 16 of this Chapter. Note that the fywnee s located by dowels, I the ‘dowels are loose they must be renewed. & 8 1 the engine is in the car, remove the engine undenray and drain the engine ol 2 Remove the suction drain pipe from the ‘108 of the sump. 2 Unbolt and remove the sump, Note the location of the three Allen-headed bolts (proto). 4 Remove the bolts which secure the oll pump. noting the special centring batt atthe 5 Unbott anc remove the ol sal cae plate. 6 Lower the ol pump into the engine 30 that its chan can be removed, Withdraw the pura and recover the spacer, the dowel and the 7 Pull the oll pump sprocket off the crankshaf and recover the Woodrut key. 71 Sump and oil pump - removal 71.3 Allen-head bolt locations on sump 72 Connecting rods, pistons and liners - removal 4 the engine is inthe car remove the sump (Section 71) and the cylinder head (Sec~ tion 61), 2 Unscrew the connecting rod cap bolts. Before removing the caps check that they are marked in numerical order, also. the Connecting rods, liners and pistons. Mark ther if thay are not (1 to 4 from the tweet adh 3 If the cylinder lines are being removed, ‘then the pistons, rods and liners can be lifted tut of the block as individual units, but mark their relative postions. 73 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal s 8 1 Before removing the crankshaft, its ancloat should be checked and Noted 10 assess for ‘wear uring examination and renovation procedures later. To check the enafloat proceed as described in Section 8, 2 Remove the bolts from main bearing caps 4, 2,4 and 8. Alsa remove the two nuts end the two side bolts from the centre cap. Make ‘alignment marks on the bearing caps and femove them. Keep the bearing shells with their cape if they are to be re-used. Recover the thrust washer segments from either side ‘of Na 2 bearing cap, 3 Remave the ol Seal from the fywheal ond ofthe crankshat 44 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase. Recover the upper half main bearing shells and the other two thrust washer segments. 5 iI the cylinder liners have Geen let clamped in position in the cylinder block, their protrusions above the cylinder biock face ‘ust be checked, as described in Section 81 before reassembling the engine ise 74 Cylinder head -cismanting —§ y Hh 4 If not already done, remiove the distributer, the fUel pump ang the spark plugs. Also remove the manifolds and ther caskets. 2 Unbolt and remove the coolant outlet housing, Do not overlook the recossec Securing screw in the end (photo). Remove the thermostat elbow from the housing anc withdraw the thermostat. 3 Lif out the camsnatt lubrication manifola (photo 60.4) 44 Unto and remove the camshatt thrust fore plate (photos 60.58 and 60.50). 5 Progressively slacken the carnshaft bearing cap nuts, Remove the caps - be prepared for the camshaft to spring upwards. Rarove the cil goal from the sprocket end, then remove the camshaft (photo 60) '6 Remove the tappats and chime, identtying thelr locations if they are to be re-used. 7 Extract the ol iter gauze from the ollway (photo 61.188) 8 Use 2 universal type valve spring compressor to compress a valve spring Remove the collets, carefully release the ‘comprescor and extract the valve and spring FRepeat for the other seven valves. 9 Using long-nosed pliers, carefully remove the valve stam oll seals from ther locations in the head. Dismantling of the cylinder head is now complete. 75 Engine components - ‘examination and renovation (general) ‘The inspection requirement procedures ‘concerning the folowing engine components fare a¢ described for the equivalent items in Part A of this Chapter, but reer to the Part 8 ‘Specifications forthe tolerance requirements ‘applicable to the HC engine. (@). General guidance on examination for wear = Section 28 (©) Crankshaft main and big-end bearings Section 24 (@) Pistons anc rings - Section 26 (@ Connecting rods - Section 27 {@) Gudgean pins - Sections 21 and 39 (©) Flywhee! - Section 34 76 Camshaft and tappets- examination and renovation = 8 1 Inspect the camshaft lobes and bearing journals for wear and damage: it evident Fenawal Is probably necessary. Also inspect the bearing surfaces inthe cylinder head and bearing caps. 2 Clean the camshaft lubrication manioid ‘with solvent and then biow threugn it with 74.2 Undoing the recessed securing screw in the coolant outlet housingOHC Engine 1635 76.2 The pinholes in the camshaft lubrication manifold must be clear compressed air. All the holes must be clear (phat. 3 Inspect the tappets for wear and scuffing renew them as necessary. New tappets must be fited # the camshaft renewed: its also ‘xveableto renew the valve springs. {Renew the camshaft drvebelt as a matter of course uriess @ isn perfect condtion and is known to have covered only 2 nominal imieage. Renew the sprockets if they are damaged 41 With the cylinder head and associated components ciemantied they can be cleaned tnd examined as described in Sections 30 and 31 of this Chapter, but ignore the ferences tothe rocker arms. 2Note that, with the OHC engine, the ‘manufacturers state that only 0.2. mm ‘machining of the eylinder head surface is emitted. A badly warped head must {hertore be renewed, 3 Factory exchange cylinder heads may have had 0.2 mm macnined off the mating face. These heads are icenttid by the letter 'R’ stamped on a boss at the distributor end of the nead. A gasket 0.2 mm thicker than normal must be used with such a head: the thcker gasket s identified by a cut-out inthe ‘ap a the cuten one. s 1 Renew the crvabatt as a matter of course Unies tf n perfect condition and is known ‘have covered only a norinal mileage. Zinspect the sprockets for any signs of ‘arage, Renew them necessary ‘The cnvebelt tensioner must be examined ‘or rougrness of the whee Bearing and wear & distortion of the spring. Renew as necessary. The whee, bearing and backplate Must be renewac 28 an assemoy (Noto) 78 Timing belt, tensioner and sprockets - examination and renovation 72.3 Camshaft drivebalt tensioner ‘components 79 Oil pump, drive chain and sprockets - ‘examination and renovation 41 Remove the six bolts which hold the two halves ofthe oll pump together. Separate the halves, being prepared for the release of the rele valve spring and plunger (photo 2 Inspect the rotors and their housing for wear and damage, No wear limits are published for this pump: any vsibie wear on the moving parts suggests that renewal is necessary, With the exception of the relief valve spring and plunger, individual components are not avaliable (photos) 2 Lubrioate the pump components well before reassembly. Bolt the two halves together, being careful not to trap the eprinc. 4If the pump is to be renewed itis wise to renew the chain and the crankshaft sprocket aso. 5 Examine the teeth of both sprockets for ‘wear. Each tooth on a sprocksts an inverted V-shape and wear is apparent wtten one side fof he tooth becomes more concave in shape than the other, When badly worn, the teeth ‘become hoop-shaped and the sprockets ‘must be renewed. 6 Ifthe sprockets need to be ranewed then the chain wil have wor also and should be ranewad a8 well. If the sprockets are Satisfactory, examine the chain and look for play between the kris, When the chan is held horizontally, it ut should not bend 79.1 Separating the two halves ofthe oll pump appreciably. Remember, a chain is only as strong as ts woakest link, and boing a relatively cheap item, fis worthwhile fiting a replacement anyway, 41 The liner bores may be examined for wear tither in af out of the engine block: the syinder head must, of course, be removed in ach case, 2 First ofall examine the top of the cylinder about a quarter of an inch below the top ofthe liner anc with a finger, felt there is any ridge running round the circumlerence of the bore. Ina wer eyinder bore a ridge wil develop at the point where the top ring on the piston comes to the uppermost imi of is stroke. An fexcassive ridge indicates that the bore below the ridge is worn, If there is no ridge, it Is reasonable to assume that the cylinder is not baaly worn. Measurement of the dlameter of the eylinder Bore both in in withthe piston ‘gudgton pin and at right angles toi, at the {op and Sottom of the cylinder. is another hack to be made. A cylinder is expected to Wear at the sidas where the thrust of the piston presses agains it In time this causes the cylinder to assume an oval shape. Furthermore, the top ofthe cylinders likoly 10 wear more than the bottom of the cylinder. i will be necessary to use a proper bore 80 Cylinder liners - ‘examination and renovation 78.24 inepect the oil pump gears for ‘oxcossive woar 78.2 Oil pump lief valve spring and plunger1636 OHC Engine Fig. 1.30 Olinder line O-ring seal location (Sec 81) measuring instrument in ord to measure the Giflerences in bore iameter across the tyinder, and variations between the top and bottom ends of the cylinder. As a general ‘uide it may be assumed that any variation ‘ore than 0.25 mm (0,010 i) indicates that the liners should be renewec. Provided all variations are less than 0.25 mm (0.070 in itis probable that the fiting of new piston rings will cure the problem of piston-to-cylinder bore clearances. Once again its aiicut to (Ne a fm rang on ths a8 90 much depends fn the amount of time, effort and money which the individual owner is propared, or ‘wishes to spend, on the task. Certainly ifthe Gylinder bores are obviously deeply grooved fof scored, the liners must be renewed, regardless of any measurement iflerences in the cylinder diameter. 3 if new liners are to be fited, new pistons ‘Wil be required also, as they are supplies as ‘matched sets. ifthe existing liners are to be ratte, ts ‘advisable to check their protrusions when fitted at this stage ratrer than during engine reassembly. This Decause the protrusion heights are net adjustable and ifthe ola liners cannot meet the specified protrusion they ‘may well have to be scrapped and new ones fitted. Consult your Peugeot dealer in doUet. eter to Section 81 for details on checking the protrusions of 9ach liner. 81 Cylinder liner protrusion - checking S 8 11 The protrusion ofthe oylinder liners when assembled to the block must De within prescribes limits so that a gastight seal can be achieved when the head is bolted on. One liner protruding too much or nat enough wil despite the cylinder nead gasket, make it Impossible to secure a 988 oF watertgnt nt 2.An O-ring seal fites between each liner mating flange ana tha cylinder Diack. These seals compress when the cylinder head is tightened down to effect a wateriont seal (Fi, 130 {3 Athough the actual liner protrusion check 81.8 Measuring a cylinder liner projection ‘mathod is the same, the procedure differs if the engine is assembled or dismantled. 4 If the cylinder head nas been removed with the engine in sity the liners must be held under compression with the use of liner Clamps. Remove the dowels ftom the cylinder black top face to allow the clamps tobe fitted, necessary, 5 It the engine is dismantieg, check that the 320] mating surfaces of the liners and the tylinder block are clean then insert each ner into its respective position in the cylinder block without ite seal 6 Check each liner protrusion in turn ‘measuring the distance between the top face ofthe liner and the top face of the cylinder block, Use a dial est incator i avaiable but, faling this, use a metal rule and feeler gauges to assess the protrusion (photo) 7 As the protrusion of each tine in tur is checked, ensure that it is squarely located in ‘the evinder block. The protrusion of each iner should be within the limits specified (see ‘Spoeitications at the start of this Chapter) New liners can be rotated half a turn (180°) and/or fitted in a different position in the block, to bring protrusion within tolerance ld liners which will nt produce the desired results are best scrapped. Consult a Peugeot ‘ealer for adv, 8 Finally check the difference in. height between agjacent liners. Use the dial test inaicators or rule and feeier gauges to measure the difference in height, if any, between adjacent lines at a point on each lying along the centre axis parallel withthe crankshaft on the top face. Each difference in level must not exceed the maximum specie. 9 If the checks reveal a discrepancy on an installed engine t wil be necessary to renew the ner O~ings or even one oF more ines 10 Once the chacks have shown the ines to ‘be within ims of provusion and squareness reassembing can continua or, i appropriate, temporary retainer clamps/straps should be fitted to hold them in position. Don't turn the crankshaft ifthe liners are not restrained from ‘movement. Cover the exposed engine intemal pants if there is likely to be a delay before completing reassembly. Fig. 1.31 Mark top of cylinders and block ‘numerically from the fiywheel end to ‘ensure correct relocation (Sec 81) 11 With new liners, once correctly located, mark thelr sequence in the block (see Fig. 1.31) and withdraw them so that their piston/rods can be fied. 82 Engine - reassembly (general) eter to Section 36 ofthis Chapter. 83 Engine - preparation for reassembly eter to Section 37 ofthis Chapter ‘84 Pistons and liners - reassembly and refitting 1 Fit me piston ings to the pistons, Always ft the rings from the piston crown end. Use Fig 1.92 Positioning the piston ring gaps ‘on assembly (Sec 84) 1 Seraper ring () Expander gap on axis of guageon pin role () Scraper rings gaps on alternate sides ‘of quagaon pin axis with 20 to 50 myn (0.79 10 1.967) 2 Tapered face ring gap 120° tram gudgeon pin ax 3 Curvea face ring gap 120° ram guaigean in axis in opposite rectionOHC Engine 1°37 184.8 Arrow mark on piston crown must point towards the timing cover end of engine. Letter and number indicate the liner and gudgeon pin grade tree old teal biades equaly spaced behing the Ang 80 that wil side down to the lower

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