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How to Fix Brass Strikes

How to Fix Brass Strikes

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Published by Ralph_Shoop_2662

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Published by: Ralph_Shoop_2662 on May 08, 2011
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FN-FAL rifle ejector angle / eliminating receiver - brass strikes Altering FNFAL rifle ejector angles to eliminate brass

strikes on receiver By ggiilliiee / Randy Nott Edited by Ralph Shoop

Before you begin: One thing you will first want to do. Using a machinist square or a known square block spanning the rails, and up against the inside of the receiver. (Make sure the rails are level as they can be pushed out of place by the machining process ) Use the tool to get the face of the ejector vertical and horizontal to the right angles of the rifle. You will do this by using a flat lapping file up against the block or square as a "file guide" to get the ejector face to right angles. In some cases this will stop the strikes and makes a good starting point to do the following modification. The ejectors used in the FAL are stamp forged; not too precise by any means. That being done, take a non honeycomb type lapping diamond file and press the flat of the file against the flat vertical face of the ejector, maintaining vertical tilt of the file and the 8-10 degree angle shown on photos below. Take a few light strokes up and down, then test with EMPTY brass multiple times, watching for a change in the ejection path. Take your time. Test by pulling back the charging handle quickly with the dust cover in place with chambered EMPTY brass to simulate the ejection process with a piece of duct tape on the side of the dust cover where the strikes, or "kisses", take place around the ejection port rim. This

You should end up with a 10-20 degree forward and 10 degree upward ejection about 8 to 10 feet in front of the rifle and 3 to 4 feet to the right. This slight angle will create less spin on the empty brass ejecting by making the first point of impact. This procedure works 99% of the time. . REMEMBER that the PIVOT POINT for the ejecting brass is the right of the extractor when the brass bottom face has a chance to hit the left side of the EJECTOR FACE it spins faster on the way out of the rifles ejection port and that spin causes the brass strikes on the receiver. The brass is well out of rifle port before the empty case mouth or mid section gets a chance to rotate and impact the dust cover or receiver.will indicate a strike by the brass as an indentation on the tape. more to the centerline of the brass. As you go you will notice the empty brass ejecting more forward than laterally. This will also eliminate mangled/dented and unreloadable brass. In other words the removal of metal on the left side of the ejector face keeps the brass bottom from ever hitting in the wrong place (left outboard side) and creating more spin. instead of on the outboard side which makes it spin faster. between the bottom of brass and the ejector face. Fading back the bottom right side lead angle will cause it to eject towards the lower part of the ejection port (you will rarely need to do this). Slightly fading back the top of the lead angle (right side of ejector) on the ejector face will eject upward slightly.

plus you don’t have to worry about hitting the person on your right at a sit down shooting range with your spent cases (this pisses some folks off). If your case comes out on a linear line out of the chamber (while in the bolt face pocket) until it hits the ejector face. as to maintain the centerline ejector first contact point. 80% of the time it only takes a few strokes at the same angle to stop the strikes. If the empty case mouth tends to lean to the left or right while pulling it from the chamber. You can test your gun for this wear by removing the dust cover. Nott . Strikes usually occur at the ejector port mouth rim when the pulled empty brass leans left which dents the middle of case and more than likely a strike on the dust cover at the 1 inch or so area back from the port from the case mouth as well. This modification does not affect function. This is to show how far you will ever have to go. All the builds I have done have functioned flawlessly. and using an empty case. the metal removal from the left side of the ejector face will be minimal. You’ll probably notice the strikes hitting an inch or so behind the ejector port opening from the case mouth. extract it from the chamber with the charge handle slowly.These pictures are of a G1 and the angle was extreme for the rifles I’ve built. with thousands of rounds through them and nary a mark afterwards. the filed angle will need to be greater than the angle on the bottom of the leaning case. it actually makes it run more consistently and it keeps you from beating up your rifle.  Randy L. It all depends on how much pressure is on the case from the extractor and how worn your bolt pocket is. with no mid-case dents.

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