Botanical ingredients for a natural beauty

Skin care and circulation are closely linked by the health of each other. Healthy skin supports proper
circulation, and, the other way around, proper circulation supports healthy skin. Indena , the world leader
in botanical derivatives, has created a complete line of cosmetic ingredients, of natural origin, that
contribute to maintaining proper circulation. Indena's botanical ingredients contribute to the maintainence
and promotion of healthy blood vessels with different targets, acting at different sites and with various
mechanisms of action. Clinical trials have indicated the safety and efficacy of the products mentioned. With
the exception of a few of them, most are applicable both for topical and oral applications, for a global
approach to beauty. Opextan™ is Indena's latest beauty product: in various trials it has performed wrinkle
prevention and skin protection from lipoperodixation and extreme skin sensitivity.

Circulation improvers may perform differently. Depending on the activity you need, you may choose one
or combine two or more ingredients to achieve a synergistic action.

Looking for reinforcement of venous wall?

Esculoside , as well as Leucoselect® (Grape seed extract) and Proanthocyanidin A2, counteract the activity
of proteases (hyaluronidase and collagenase) reducing the catabolism of the proteins sustaining the
perivascular connective tissue integrity. A similar effect, acting on the other side on the collagen
biosynthesis, is exerted by Centella asiatica selected triterpenes and Asiaticoside , both obtained
from Centella asiatica.

Mirtoselect® (Bilberry extract) has a specific affinity to endothelial cell membranes, increasing capillary
resistance and reducing their permeability. It also has been proven to inhibit proteolytic enzymes as elastase,
thus reducing the degradation of proteins in the extracellular matrix. Additionally, it interacts with collagen
metabolism, by cross-linking fibers and making them more resitant to collagenase action.

Looking for vasokinetics?

Ginkgoselect® from Ginkgo biloba acts mainly by stimulating blood flow and the rhythmic contractions of
precapillary arterioles. Butcher's broom andruscogenins C (isolated again from Buther's broom) promote the
activation of adrenergic receptors by acting on the smooth muscle cells of the venous system. Hawthorn
enhances the blood flow by reducing peripheral resistance.

Looking for antioedema ingredients?

Horse chestnut, as well as Escine (contained in horse chestnut extract as well) act on capillary permeability,
by reducing oedema due to the excessive water exchange. The lymphatic vessels, on the other hand, are
stimulated by coumarin, present in Lymphaselect® , which improves lymphatic vessel rhythm and tone.
Most of the ingredients are also supplied in the more bioavailablePhytosome® form.
Other botanical extracts with different properties of natural origin have been developed by Indena for
cosmetic applications. To know more, checkwww.indena.com or contact us.
New beauty food ingredient inhibits
elastase
By Lorraine Heller, 21-May-2010
FutureCeuticals has launched a beauty-from-within formulation that it claims is the first
ingredient to benefit skin health by inhibiting elastase activity in the blood.
The branded Dermaval product – a blend of fruit and vegetable powders – is being positioned as a
scientifically-backed alternative to antioxidants.

Elastase is an enzyme responsible for the break-down of elastin, which in turn is a protein that is part of
elastic fibres in the skin. The process of skin ageing is said to accelerate when elastin starts to break down.

According to FutureCeuticals, elastase inhibition provides “more comprehensive, measurable science

support” for beauty-from-within products, compared to antioxidants.

The company conducted an in-house, randomized pilot trial on the ingredient, which was found to inhibit
elaste in humans by up to 10 percent within two hours after ingestion. Because it was a “discovery” study,
FutureCeuticals said it has no plans to publish it, but said that “based upon the encouraging preliminary
results confirmed by our ex vivo and in clinico testing, we see justification to consider running additional,
larger-cohort studies.”

Biological effects

FutureCeuticals used its TargeTest biotesting platform to screen individual ingredients, as well as
combinations of ingredients, for ability to inhibit elastase activity, explained the firm’s general manager,
John Hunter.

It then selected the most active individual ingredients, which when combined delivered a strong synergistic
effect – but Hunter said the mechanism of action remains proprietary.

The Dermaval formulation contains: VitaGranate BioActive Pomegranate Extract, Green Garden Asparagus
officinalis Concentrate, Abelmoschus esculentua Concentrate,VitaBerry Tropical, Coffea Arabica Concentrate,
Brazilian Acerola Cherry, Amazon Camu Camu, Sophora japonica Concentrate, Brazilian Acai Berry and Thai
Mangosteen Concentrate.

FutureCeuticals said Dermaval can be used in supplements, foods and beverages. It is manufactured with
only GRAS (generally recognized as safe) ingredients, so does not require a new stand-alone GRAS
application, said Hunter.

The firm’s study on the ingredient used a single dose of 500mg that caused an average elastase inhibition of
10 percent. “We would recommend dosages of 250 – 500mg twice per day for maintenance of healthy
elastase levels.”

Beyond antioxidants

According to the company, the new formulation could have certain benefits over antioxidants as a beauty-
from-within ingredient.

“FutureCeuticals has been involved at the forefront of antioxidant nutrition since the beginning of ORAC. We
were a leader in the commercialization of the ORAC message,” Hunter told NutraIngredients-USA.com. “As
time passed, however, we became increasingly interested in being able to generate hard science that could
establish a clear connection between the ingestion of antioxidants and quantifiable changes in well-
recognized markers and targets in people.”

“This search engendered the creation of our TargeTest diagnostic platform that provided us with a powerful
tool to measure effects in blood, and in people, of ingested antioxidant materials. We look at markers such
as PON1, CETP, oxLDL, Isoprostanes, Advanced Oxidation Protein Products, CRP, Elastase, and many
others, as well as genetic expression, genetic cascades, oxygen metabolism, mitochondrial metabolic
processes, to name a few.”
The global market for beauty foods
By Lorraine Heller, 25-Aug-2010
In the second article of a special series on nutricosmetics, we take a look at the size of the
market for foods, drinks and supplements that promise beauty benefits, as well as the distinctly
different approaches to the category taken in three key regions.
Benefits of beauty foods

When it comes to ingestible beauty, the three areas addressed by products areskin, hair and nails.

Benefits of beauty foods, drinks and supplements include: (for skin) repair and prevention; sun protection;
firmness; pigmentation; whitening; and slimming; (for hair) retention and growth; restoration;
nourishment; and volumizing; (for nails) strengthening.

Market size

According to the most recent market data available from Kline Group – which closely tracks the market for
beauty-from-within products – the global market for nutricosmetics was worth $1.5bn in 2007, and is
expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012.

Europe and Japan currently lead the global market for these products, accounting for 55 and 41 percent of
sales respectively. In contrast, the US holds only 3 percent of the market.

Overall, the global market for nutricosmetics grew over 10 percent in 2007. Factors influencing this growth
include an aging population, increased consumer awareness, societal and environmental factors, a rise of
the ‘spa culture’ and a shift towards less invasive beauty procedures.

Kline points out that the three main markets for nutricosmetics are very different in their nature due to
varying culture, consumer expectations and legislation. As such, the markets must be tackled individually by
companies developing and marketing products in this category.

Market differences

Japan: The most developed market for nutricosmetics is Japan. This is the first country to make the
category mainstream, and is now the most mature market with the greatest national consciousness for
beauty foods.

Products sold in Japan are available at cheap prices in mass market channels. The category includes a wide
range of innovative and frequently updated products, which generally focus on ‘total beauty’ with no specific
claim. Prices usually range between ¥100 and ¥300 ($1 - $3), and the market is more focused on liquid
products.

Europe: The European market brings up the opposite end of the spectrum, with products positioned in the
premium channel, usually sold in pharmacies with prices ranging between €20 and €40 ($29 - $58).

The European market is still largely concentrated in France, Italy, Germany, the UK and Spain. It is mainly
driven by anti-aging concerns, with most products marketed for skin and hair benefits and coming in dietary
supplement format.

According to Euromonitor International, one of the reasons behind the success of nutricosmetics in Japan
and Europe is the widespread availability of the products. For example, 16 percent of all supplements sold in
Japan are positioned as beauty supplements, while in Germany 11 percent of supplements are beauty-
focused.

US: In contrast to Japan and Europe, the US market is still in the early stages of growth, with a clear focus
yet to be established.

According to some analysts, the category has been slow to develop as American consumers tend to want
instant results, which are not delivered by nutricosmetics.

In addition, the main retail outlet for these products is neither mass market nor pharmacies, but specialty
retail stores, which charge medium prices. This in itself could be restricting the category by not targeting
different consumer groups on either side of the fence.

Products sold in the US tend to be marketed only for skin and take the form of dietary supplement capsules.
Beauty from Within 2010: Harnessing the
potential of nutricosmetics
07-Sep-2010
Beauty from Within 2010 Conference, brought to you by CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com and
NutraIngredients.com, will get under the skin of the growing nutricosmetics sector.

Edible beauty has blockbuster potential but challenges remain – in building the science and making claims in
a highly complex legal landscape. Beauty from Within 2010 will look at the science behind the ingredients
and explore how to bring successful products to a highly competitive market.

According to the most recent market data available from Kline Group – which closely tracks the market for
beauty-from-within products – the global market fornutricosmetics was worth $1.5bn (€1.15bn) in 2007,
and is expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012.

This one-day conference provides you with an in-depth look at new advances in nutricosmetics, combining
scientific advances and new ingredients with regulatory challenges and opportunities and marketing
strategies.

Industry experts, including Dr Frank Schonlau from Horphag Research, David

Djerassi from LycoRed and Prof Christine Lang, managing director ofOrganobalance, will share the
latest scientific knowledge and discoveries, focusing on how these benefits can be carried through to your
product to provide an edge in this competitive market.

Formulation and delivery will also be examined in presentations from Stéphane

Delahaye from INNOVABIO and Dr Bhaven Chavan from Croda.

A focus on the regulation of nutricosmetics including EFSA's health claims will be discussed by regulatory
experts Thomas Pauquai from Nutraveris and Owen Warnock from Eversheds LLP.

Ensuring commercial product success including marketing and product distribution will be investigated Dr
Marie Béjot, founder of Oenobiol, as well as Kate Cazenove the Co-Founder of SIP and Marie-Louise
Haxthausen, International Marketing Director for Imedeen.

The Beauty from Within 2010 Conference, to be held in Paris on 11th October at the Lutetia Hotel,
combines a strong science-led programme with sound business advice and the perfect platform to discuss
current challenges within the industry. The conference also provides an excellent networking opportunity.
Pomegranate compounds show skin
health potential
By Stephen Daniells, 10-Aug-2010
Extracts from berries and pomegranate may protect the skin from the detrimental effects of UV
exposure, offering interesting dietary approaches to prevent skin wrinkles, suggests a new
study.
Korean scientists report that ellagic acid may prevent the degradation of collagen in human skin cells, which
would maintain skin structure and slow the formation of wrinkles, according to findings published in this
month’s issue ofExperimental Dermatology.

Additional studies with hairless mice showed that the polyphenol prevented the thickening of the skin on
exposure to UV radiation. Topical application of ellagic acid was associated with a decrease in levels of pro-
inflammatory compounds in the skin of the animals, report researchers from the Department of Food and
Nutrition at Hallym University in Korea.

“Topical or dietary interventions with berries and pomegranate rich in ellagic acid and ellagitannins are
promising strategies in curtailing skin wrinkling and cutaneous inflammation associated with chronic UV
exposure leading to photoageing,” wrote the researchers.

The results tap into the growing awareness of the link between diet and health, and by extension physical
appearance, means that many consumers are receptive to the concept of 'beauty from within'.

There is a growing body of science focusing on the potential benefits of nutrients to boost skin health from
within, with lutein, lycopene, flavanol-rich chocolate, hydrolysed collaged, and superoxide dismutase (SOD)
having been reported to improve skin health.

Study details

The Korean researchers used human skin cells (keratinocytes) and human fibroblasts, which produce the
extracellular matrix and collagen in the skin. The cells were exposed to UV-B radiation and ellagic acid.

Results showed that the polyphenol attenuated the UV-B-induced toxicity of these cells, while also
preventing the degradation of collagen that is associated with wrinkle formation.

When topically applied to hairless mice at a concentration of 10 micromoles per liter, ellagic acid was
associated with a reduction in the production of the pro-inflammatory compounds interleukin-1beta (IL-1b)
and IL-6.

“These results demonstrate that ellagic acid prevented collagen destruction and inflammatory responses
caused by UV-B,” concluded the researchers.

Beauty from Within 2010 Conference

The science and regulation behind nutricosmetics will be discussed at the upcoming Beauty from Within
2010 Conference, brought to you by NutraIngredients.com and CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com. For more
information and to register please click here .

Source: Experimental Dermatology

Volume 19, Issue 8, Pages e182-e190
“Dietary compound ellagic acid alleviates skin wrinkle and inflammation induced by UV-B irradiation”
Authors: J.Y. Bae, J.S. Choi, S.W. Kang, Y.J. Lee, J. Park, Y.H. Kang
Beauty foods grow threefold, says Mintel
By Lorraine Heller, 11-Sep-2009
Global food and drink products claiming to enhance beauty increased threefold over the past
three years indicating a market ready to take off, said Mintel.
According to the market analyst, the growth in ‘beauty foods’ by far exceeds that of regular food and drink
products. Between 2005 and 2008, introductions of beauty-enhancing products increased 306 percent,
compared to the 35 percent increase registered for the overall food and drink industry.

“This data speaks to the impact 'beauty foods' are having on the market. In addition, already in 2009,
nearly 300 food and drink product launches with a 'beauty enhancing' claim have been launched, surpassing
the total number launched in all of 2008,” said the analyst.

Mintel also noted that women in the US between the ages of 18 and 25 are interested in trying beauty
functional beverages.

“These numbers really point to an opportunity within this new segment in the beauty industry,"said Taya
Tomasello, senior beauty analyst at Mintel.

Skin, hair and nails

Beauty foods generally address three areas: Skin, hair and nails. Benefits include: (for skin) repair and
prevention; sun protection; firmness; pigmentation; whitening; and slimming; (for hair) retention and
growth; restoration; nourishment; and volumizing; (for nails) strengthening.

This increased consumer interest in the concept of beauty from within is contributing to the category
becoming more clearly defined as an independent marketing platform for certain ingredients and products.

According to market research company Kline Group, the category was worth around $1.5bn in 2007, and
expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012. Overall, the global market for nutricosmetics grew over 10 percent in
2007.

Inspiration from Japan

Kline estimates the US holds only 3 percent of the global nutricosmetics – or beauty from within – market.
Europe and Japan currently take the lead, accounting for 55 and 41 percent of sales respectively.

Looking to the Japanese market for inspiration, new product introductions highlighted by Mintel fruit snacks
consisting of dried mangoes, pineapples, papaya and cranberries coated with collagen.

Launched by Japan-based Kracie Foods, the product “targets women in their 20s to 40s who are conscious
of their skin health,” said Mintel.

Another new beauty product launched in Australia is Tea Tonic's Complexon Tea that claims to
help "revitalize each cell of the body within, and is a positive step towards achieving beautiful luminous skin
and a fabulous complexion."

Next week, Mintel will be showcasing what it calls “the latest innovative beauty products” at the cosmetics
show HBA Expo in New York.
Beauty supplements need their own
brands, says analyst
By Katie Bird , 26-Aug-2009
Cosmetic companies looking to conquer the nutricosmetics market should create new, separate
brands for their beauty supplements, argues a market analyst.
The beauty from within trend has been tipped for impressive growth but the category is in its infancy and it
is not clear how beauty companies should proceed to get the most out of it.

Creating a new brand from which to market the beauty from within offerings could help build a successful
product range, said Nancy Mills from market research company Kline.

Separate brand

“They should establish a separate brand, as L’Oréal did with Inneov,” she said.

Inneov is the joint venture between L’Oréal and Nestlé. Offering only supplements, its ranges target
cellulite, wrinkles, and hair loss, as well as a product that claims to help protect the skin against UV rays.

The products are available in many pharmacy chains and don’t aim to create a link in the minds of
consumers with any of L’Oreal’s well known skin care or hair care brands.

In contrast P&G’s Olay brand released a vitamins range back in 2003 which was not as successful as the
company had hoped, and was removed from the market four years later.

For Mills, the lack of a separate brand identity may have hindered the success of the products.

“It [Olay’s vitamin line] didn’t perform as well as hoped. We speculate it was because people couldn’t get
used to the idea of taking a supplement named Olay, which is a name with strong brand association with
face creams,” she told CosmeticsDesign.

When asked about the discontinuation of the line, a P&G spokesperson said that the company had very high
sales expectations for the product but they were not met, and suggested that the product did not distinguish
itself from a crowded marketplace.

“Today’s consumer has many choices with respect to vitamins and nutrition,” the spokesperson said.

Scientific backing is important

Olay’s vitamins were released in partnership with Pharmavite, a big player in the nutritional supplements
world, and the company said it was aware that collaboration with a nutritional expert to explore the link
between nutrition and skin health was a necessity.

This sentiment was echoed by the analyst who said scientifically validated products are much more likely to
be a hit with consumers, as are convenient and easy to use products.

Kline maintains that simplicity is one of the key’s to success in the category and argues for innovative
products that don’t require consumers to make an extra effort. “Changing consumer habits is too much of a
hurdle … [Products must] fit in with existing behavior”.
Carving a cosmeceutical focus as beauty
foods category grows
By Lorraine Heller, 03-Aug-2009
The emerging area of cross-over between food and cosmetics is increasingly gaining traction as
consumers warm to the concept of beauty-from-within.
Next month, ‘edible beauty’ will be the center of attention for the cosmetics world, as one of the industry’s
biggest shows stages a two-day focus on this new approach to beauty.

An increased consumer interest in the concept is contributing to the category becoming more clearly defined
as an independent marketing platform for certain ingredients and products. This has come to be valued at
around $1.5bn in 2007, and expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012, according to market research company
Kline Group.

Food and cosmetics focus

A conference to be held next month as part of the major cosmetics industry event HBA Global Expo will
examine the market potential of this category, and ways to tap into new distribution channels and sales
opportunities.

The HBA X-Ceuticals Conference, to be held September 15-17, 2009 at the Javits Convention Center in New
York, aims to present information on howcosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are being used alone and in
combination for product and business development. It will also provide an insight into new technologies and
research for “this new breed of products”.

Although not the first time a distinct track on cosmeceuticals has been added to major cosmetics and food
industry events, this marks an increasingly consistent focus on the category.

Kline – which tracks the market for beauty-from-within products – last year gave a presentation at the In-
Cosmetics show in Europe on nutricosmetics, defined in the cosmetics industry as ingestible products that
deliver beauty benefits.

(This coincides with the food industry’s use of the term ‘cosmeceuticals’, which itself is used differently in
the cosmetics arena to mean the cross between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. For more on the
discrepancy in definitions, clickhere .)

Two leading markets

According to the Kline presentation, Europe and Japan currently lead the global nutricosmetics market,
accounting for 55 and 41 percent of sales respectively. In contrast, the US holds only 3 percent of the
market.

Overall, the global market for nutricosmetics grew over 10 percent in 2007. Factors influencing this growth
include an aging population, increased consumer awareness, societal and environmental factors, a rise of
the ‘spa culture’ and a shift towards “less invasive” beauty procedures.

The three areas addressed by these products are skin, hair and nails. Benefits include: (for skin) repair and
prevention; sun protection; firmness; pigmentation; whitening; and slimming; (for hair) retention and
growth; restoration; nourishment; and volumizing; (for nails) strengthening.

Click here to read the NutraIngredients-USA.com article on the differences between the three markets for
cosmeceuticals, as well as some of the reasons why the US remains far behind Europe and Japan.
Foods for beauty in the spotlight:
Euromonitor
By Lorraine Heller, 01-Oct-2009
Anti-aging and beauty from within are expected to be in the functional food spotlight, despite the
recent shadow cast over the category by the high profile failure of Danone’s Essensis beauty
yogurt, say analysts.
Speaking to NutraIngredients-USA.com, Euromonitor analyst Ewa Hudson identified beauty foods as a key
area of focus for the global functional food and beverage industries.

Other trends highlighted include a quest for cheaper products, an expansion of probiotics into other health
categories and applications, and a renewed focus on weight management. To read those articles, click here .

Looks = Life

“Anti-aging and beauty from within are important because people are concerned about their looks – looking
and feeling healthy gives them a better quality of life, influencing both their social life and their performance
at work,” said Hudson.

“So far, options were limited to cosmetic surgery, which is expensive and invasive. But 90 percent of skin
aging is because of the sun’s radiation, and products like CoQ10, lycopene and collagen take the hit from
the sun rather than your skin,” she told NutraIngredients-USA.com.

The three areas addressed by edible beauty products are skin, hair and nails. Benefits include: (for skin)
repair and prevention; sun protection; firmness; pigmentation; whitening; and slimming; (for hair) retention
and growth; restoration; nourishment; and volumizing; (for nails) strengthening.

According to the Kline Group, the global market for nutricosmetics was valued at $1.5bn in 2007, and is
expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012. Europe and Japan currently lead the market, accounting for 55 and 41
percent of sales respectively. In contrast, the US holds only 3 percent of the market.

Euromonitor says one of the reasons behind the success of nutricosmetics in Japan and Europe is their
widespread availability. Some 16 percent of all supplements sold in Japan are positioned as beauty
supplements. In Germany, 11 percent of supplements are beauty-focused.

Ingredients and visible results are key

However, despite the more advanced European market, the high-profile failure of Danone's beauty-
enhancing yogurt, Essensis, earlier this year “has cast doubt on the immediate future of the nutraceuticals
industry in light of the global recession,” says Euromonitor.

However, the analyst suggests that Essensis failed in the selection of its ingredients – vitamin E and green
tea – which are not associated in consumer minds with improving beauty.

“Whilst both are widely known to be beneficial to health, they are also found in many other foods. Thus, it
could be argued that Essensis does not have a strong enough focus on beauty to be able to persuade
consumers to trade up from the wealth of yoghurts already available that contain added ingredients which
are beneficial to health,” wrote Euromonitor in a comment article earlier this year.

Scepticism about the efficacy of products is a key barrier to growth, says Euromonitor, which highlights the
importance of selecting the right ingredients.

Another challenge faced by the category in the current climate is the price premium. For example, Nestle’s
Glowelle is priced at around $7 per bottle, which is far higher than the price of other fortified drinks.

Effective marketing and product efficacy are key to ensuring product success, says the analyst.

“It will be vital for manufacturers to communicate effectively and succinctly exactly why consumers should
trade up to a nutraceutucal product, and that ingestible beauty products can be a viable alternative to the
creams and cosmetics designed for external use.”
Failure of Danone beauty yogurt is a
learning opportunity
By Guy Montague-Jones, 09-Feb-2009
Danone pulled beauty yogurt Essensis from French shelves last week and left behind a lesson in
how not to market edible cosmetics.
Launched with much aplomb in Spain, France and Italy two years ago, Essensisseemed to suggest the
beauty food trend was spreading from its Japanese roots. But news of the French failure casts a cloud over
the frenzied excitement sparked by the boundary defying products.

Some would suggest that the whole beauty-from-within trend is overblown.

“It’s a Bridget Jones kind of product… but even she will only buy it once,” said Peter Wennström, chief
consultant at Swedish-based Healthy Marketing Team.

Wennström said the product lacked credibility. French consumer watchdog UFC-QC came to a similar
conclusion last year dismissing Essensis as a mere marketing concept that has no tangible effect on the
skin.

Those who buy into the magic of such products may therefore be viewed as“somewhat stupid”, to borrow a
phrase from Wennström.

Stupid or not, people are interested in the concept of beauty food and drink. In August last year, Mintel
published the findings of a US survey in which 16 percent of respondents said they want skin, nail, and hair
beauty benefits from their functional beverages.

So there is a market out there for beauty drinks but Danone has quite simply failed to reach out to those
Bridget Jones types who would lap them up.

Packed with vitamin E, green tea-derived antioxidants, probiotics and borage oil, Essensis has all the right
ingredients to attract the beauty consumer but was let down by an over-ambitious distribution strategy.

Danone launched Essensis in supermarkets alongside an array of big-branded and invariably cheaper
yogurts.

There was nothing that differentiated the product from its neighbors apart from unfamiliar beauty claims
and an inflated price tag.

Realizing that not enough had been done to set Essensis apart, Danone announced last year that it would
re-launch the yogurt in smaller Actimel style pots in 2009.

Too little, too late. Essensis needed more than just a packaging make-over to save it from the French scrap
heap.

New Nutrition Business magazine astutely diagnosed the supermarket as the cause of Essensis’s woe long
before the product was pulled from the shelves.

“That’s not a place where a brand can acquire any cachet or mystique,” the magazine wrote in October last
year. “Moreover, it’s easy for consumers to see that it’s a brand that’s at quite a premium to other yogurts.”

Most consumers are totally unfamiliar with the idea of beauty food and drinks and need to have the product
concept explained to them before they buy into it.

Nestle understood this and bypassed the supermarket aisles and launched its beauty drink Glowelle at
luxury retailer Neiman Marcus in the US where the drink will be sold alongside conventional cosmetics.

The product is the brainchild of Kimberly Cooper who told CosmeticsDesign.com that in supermarkets
beauty-from-within products have to compete with other big food and drink brands in front of consumers
that are not looking for cosmetics.

By contrast, consumers at a store like Neiman Marcus are looking for beauty products and have the means
to be unconcerned about how they affect their weekly food shopping bill. Sales assistants are also on hand
to explain what the new products are and how they work.
However, Mintel analyst Nica Lewis told CosmeticsDesign.com that the removal of Essensis from French
shelves does not prove conclusively that supermarkets are not appropriate for edible or drinkable cosmetics.
Lewis said the distribution debate is still open.

She pointed out that in Japan beauty foods and drinks are sold in both supermarkets and specialty stores.
This may be, but edible cosmetics are well-established in Japan where the adage “you are what you eat” is
truly engrained in the culture.

In Europe and North America, once the concept has been established and a sizable following gathered,
beauty foods may be ready to move into the supermarket. For the moment consumers are just not ready to
see a product like Essensis on the supermarket shelves.
Fruit juice and dairy hold beauty promise
By Guy Montague-Jones, 10-Jan-2008
Fruit juices and dairy products promise to deliver sales growth for companies looking to exploit
the beauty from within trend.
The food industry began crossing into cosmetic territory several years ago with the creation of beauty
enhancing dietary supplements but now everything from teas to marshmallows have been tested on the
beauty consumer.

Drinks that are already associated with healthy living such as milk and fruit are now expected to prove most
successful in this fast growing market, said Udi Alroy from Israel-based ingredients supplier LycoRed.

The marketing executive told CosmeticsDesign.com that yoghurt drinks have already proved popular with
consumers as a carrier for ingredients that improve the appearance of the skin.

Dairy products are natural contenders for the beauty food wave because they are rich in beauty enhancing
vitamins and minerals and consumers are used to them being marketed with specific life enhancing claims,
such as improved digestion.

One of the largest manufacturers to take this direction is Danone, which rolled out a beauty yoghurt fortified
with Omega 6, antioxidants and probiotics called Essensis in February last year in the Mediterranean
countries of Italy, Spain and France.

In addition to dairy products, Alroy said beauty enhancing fruit juice was likely to be a hit with consumers
because unlike other potential carriers such as snack bars or even marshmallows there are established
health benefits of fruit juice.

The LycoRed executive said beauty beverages may work to improve the appearance of the skin with the
addition of antioxidants in the carotenoid family such as LycoPene, which improve the firmness of the skin
and help protect it from UV-rays.

With regards to the geographic progress of beauty food and drink Alroy said Japan is the most developed
market.

The Japanese beauty food market contains a number of quirky products such as collagen-filled
marshmallows, which were sold in the UK with little success by the confectioner Eiwa.

Alroy said France has been flying the flag for Europe over the last few years although high growth in the
country is now spreading to other countries such as Russia, Spain, the US and the UK.
Report highlights latest news on beauty
foods
By Simon Pitman, 23-Nov-2007
Leatherhead Food International has published a new market report about the fast-growing
market for food and drink products with beautifying ingredients.
Entitled 'Beauty Foods - An Attractive Proposition', the publisher says the report aims to provide an
understanding of the technical basis behind the efficacy of ingredients that aim to improve skin tone, eye
brightness, wrinkles and hair gloss.

Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and collagen have become increasingly popular in the skin care market
of late, in line with consumer desire to stave off signs of skin ageing and maintain a healthy appearance.

With the growth in this trend being mirrored by huge interest in natural ingredients, industry experts have
noted a 'blurring of the boundaries' between cosmetic and food and drink products, as many of the natural-
based ingredients are increasingly shared.

The report highlights the increasing popularity of ingredients such as coenzyme Q10, gingseng, aloe vera,
collagen, green tea, rooibos and omega-3 - ingredients that can now be found in food and drink products
almost as readily as cosmetic products.

As well as market information, the report contains a comprehensive technical chapter on the different
sources, functions, and applications of ingredients like these that are now being widely used in beauty food
products.

Likewise, the report also combines a summary of regulatory issues associated with health claims made for
novel and beauty food products.

Beauty foods have swept into the more developed consumer markets over the past couple of years, with
product such as yoghurts, sweets and soft drinks boasting beauty benefits such as skin whitening, anti-
ageing, sun protection and a clearer complexion.

The report also looks at the development of the market, tracking the fact that the niche has grown up
around small independent companies that have been increasingly bought up by the larger food and cosmetic
companies.

Big players now involved in the beauty foods arena include L'Oreal, Nestle, Danone and Coca-Cola, who are
all increasing their portfolios within the category.
Natraceutical buys natural food brand
with beauty potential
By Guy Montague-Jones, 18-Sep-2007
Natraceutical has paid €2m for a beta-glucan brand, citing potential for the natural food
ingredient in the beauty sector as a motivating factor.
The company's acquisition of Viscofiber comes as the cosmetics industry develops a closer relationship
with food companies in order to market edible or drinkable products that enhance beauty from the inside.

Spain-based Natraceutical said yesterday that it had bought Viscofiber from the Canada-based Cevena
Bioproducts along with patents, clinical analyses, clients and distribution contracts for €2m.

The high fibre content of the natural grain-based ingredient makes it ideal for the functional foods sector,
company spokesperson Ignacio Berckemeyer told CosmeticsDesign.com, adding that it may also be used in
creams or beauty foods.

José Vicente Pons Andreu, chief executive of Natraceutical, said: "Viscofiber also offers great potential for
introduction in the beauty and pet food sectors."

Natraceutical, which already markets cosmeceutical products such as Time Expert y Cheveux Expert, said it
is currently considering the cosmetic uses of Viscofiber.

Explaining the potential of the ingredient for the cosmetics industry, Berckemeyer said beta-glucan is
particularly good at absorbing certain synergic antioxidant substances such as plant sterols.

Scientists have found that beta-glucan, a non-starch polysaccharide present in oats and barley, has a
number of health benefits thanks to its high fibre content.

Natraceutical said Viscofiber is the "only high-viscosity and high-concentration" oat and barley concentrate
commercially available and has 12 times as much soluble fibre than oat bran.

Beta-glucan has been the subject of increasing attention with some research indicating the soluble fibre can
decrease cholesterol levels. Past studies have also indicated that it has an anti-diabetes benefit and can help
speed up immune response.

For the moment, Viscofiber is available for the functional food and dietary supplement market and
production of the ingredient will continue in Canada.
Cognis taps into demand for exotic
natural ingredients
By Simon Pitman, 07-Sep-2007
With the sourcing of natural ingredients becoming more and more of a problem as demand
rockets, Germany-based supplier Cognis has extended its naturals portfolio with the launch of an
Amazonian clay-based exfoliating ingredient.
The heightened demand for natural ingredients has also led to a search for increasingly unusual or exotic
ingredients. Marajo Scrub LS 9843 taps into these factors, as it is based on natural clay sourced from Marajo
island, in the Amazon region of Northern Brazil.

The ingredient has been developed and manufactured by the company's France-based Laboratories
Serobiologiques division as a micro-exfoliator that is said to soften the skin, restoring its balance and
radiance due to its rich mineral content.

The clay is a source of mineral salts such as iron, aluminium, potassium, calcium, boron and sulphur -
constituents of good skin health - as well as kaolin, a clay mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics.

Likewise, as a raw material, the raw clay also confims to the Ecocert standard for ecological and organic
cosmetics, allowing it to comply with increasingly strict certification processes, driven by consumer desire
for the most natural products possible.

The manufacturer says the ingredient is suitable for a range of products, including scrubs aimed at the body
and face, as well as purifying treatments for problem skin, scalp exfoliating products for dandruff and as an
exfoliator in both bar and liquid soap formulations.

"Marajo scrub is an example of how we are helping manufacturers to meet the growing demand for natural-
source cosmetic raw materials, allowing Ecocert Certification for ecological and organic cosmetics, without
sacrificing efficacy,"said Isabelle Benoit, global marketing manager for Laboratories Serobiologiquies.

"The ingredient should appeal to consumers' desire for escape, is environmentally sound, reliable in
application, and delivers superior performance."

As a kaolin-based clay, the ingredient needs no preservative, has a whitish-gray appearance, is easily
dispersible in water, has a mild but distinguishing odour and is recommended as a 3 - 5 per cent dosage for
most formulation needs.

The company says that its own studies have proven the ingredient's efficacy, with a formulation containing a
3 per cent dose showing an immediate improvement in skin radiance for 70 per cent of subjects that were
tested.

Likewise, the studies showed that an hour later the subjects' skin was smoother, less dull and more uniform,
with pore size visibly reduced.

The latest launch by Cognis taps into a fast-growing sector that is driving some of the fastest rates of
product development in the personal care industry as a whole.

Organic Monitor, a research company, estimates that the European market for natural and organic products
is currently growing at 20 per cent a year, and is set to surpass a value of €1bn.
Athena withdraws its eyelash enhancer
By Katie Bird, 23-Nov-2007
Athena cosmetics has withdrawn its eyelash enhancing product from the market in response to
the FDA's seizure of similar products last week, adding to the controversy surrounding the
regulation of cosmeceutical products.
Athena has decided to stop selling Revitalash as it contains bimatoprost, an ingredient used in an FDA-
approved drug for glaucoma, and present in a product recently seized by the regulators.

The company cites 'possible public concern over bimatoprost' as the reason behind the product withdrawal,
whilst simultaneously reassuring customers that the product is completely safe.

Last week the FDA ordered a seizure of $2m worth of a similar bimatoprost-containing product, the Age
Intervention Eyelash product, produced by Jan Marini Skin Research (JMSR).

The FDA's concern over JMSR's product was related to the use of ingredients present in an FDA-approved
glaucoma drug, and the claims that the product could be used as a means to increase eyelash growth.

These claims place the product out of the category of cosmetics and into the realm of drugs, which under
American law need FDA approval before they can be marketed.

In fact the Age Intervention Eyelash product has not been marketed or manufactured since September last
year, when the FDA placed an embargo on the product.

JMSR have since relaunched a new product that doesn't contain the contentious ingredient, and Athena look
to be following a similar path.

According to the company, it has been planning a reformulation of the product for some time and plans to
accelerate the launch of its reformulated Revitalash product to mid-December.

The ingredient in question, bimatoprost appears in the glaucoma drug Lumigan, manufactured and
marketed by Allergan. It works to lower the fluid pressure inside the eye, a significant risk factor for the
disease.

The FDA stated that the use of the bimatoprost containing product in conjunction with a bimatoprost
treatment for glaucoma, could decrease the drugs efficiency. This could lead to damage to the optic nerve
and even blindness for sufferers of the condition.

In addition, the FDA stated that the presence of the ingredient in the Age Intervention Eyelash product could
also be hazardous to certain people during normal use, citing swelling of the retina, inflammation and
reduced vision as possible side effects.

The concern over products such as Athena's Revitalash and JMSR's Age Intervention Eyelash enhancer,
illustrates the importance of regulation for the growing cosmeceutical sector.
Strict regulations may endanger
innovation
By Katie Bird, 25-Jan-2008
New classes of cosmetics products can prove challenging for regulators but it is important that
regulation does not starve innovation, says an industry expert.
Although regulation is paramount to ensure consumer safety, the industry needs to take care that it does
not starve innovation, says Chris Flower head of the UKcosmetics and perfumery association CTPA.

Industry innovation is constantly generating new products, the safety of which must be ensured before they
reach consumers.

However, certain products appear to straddle a boundary between cosmetics and medicines making their
classification and subsequent regulation challenging.

Recent examples include the Jan Marini eyelash conditioning products that have been removed from the US
market.

Regulation should not starve innovation

According to Flower there is a risk in this area that a product may not reach the market as the current
regulation does not know how to handle it.

Leaving aside companies who deliberately mis-market their products to get around legislation requirements,
it would be a shame if legislation held back reputable manufacturers, said the head of the trade association.

"We shouldn't use regulation to constrain innovation," said Flower. "If the market wants it and the product
is safe and efficacious then we should work on the regulation to see how the product can reach the EU
market as either a cosmetic or a medicine."

Flower's example is a tooth whitening product. Reputable companies with safe, efficacious products may be
held back by regulation. This can lead to a proliferation of low quality products from disreputable sources
that may in fact cause harm to the user, he explained.

A cosmetic or a medicine, but not both

In the EU a product is a cosmetic or a medicine, but it cannot be both.

Under the EU Cosmetics Directive the purpose of a cosmetics product is to clean, perfume, change the
appearance, correct body odour, protect or to keep in good condition.

If a product aims to change the physiology of the individual, or to treat, diagnose or prevent a disease, it
enters into the realm of a medicine, which can make classifying certain products difficult.

Blurring boundaries

A recent example of one such product is an eyelash enhancing product that has recently been removed from
the US market.

The original product, manufactured by Jan Marini Skin Research, contained an ingredient licensed for use in
a glaucoma drug, the side effects of which included increased eyelash growth.

The presence of this ingredient, and claims that the product could be used as a means to increase eyelash
growth, brought it to the attention of the authorities who questioned whether it was a cosmetic or a
medicine.

The product was then removed from the US market and a reformulated product that did not contain the
contentious ingredient was released. This has since been voluntarily withdrawn by the company regarding,
in part, a patent infringement allegation from pharmaceutical company Allergan.
Failure of Danone beauty yogurt is a
learning opportunity
By Guy Montague-Jones, 09-Feb-2009
Danone pulled beauty yogurt Essensis from French shelves last week and left behind a lesson in
how not to market edible cosmetics.
Launched with much aplomb in Spain, France and Italy two years ago, Essensisseemed to suggest the
beauty food trend was spreading from its Japanese roots. But news of the French failure casts a cloud over
the frenzied excitement sparked by the boundary defying products.

Some would suggest that the whole beauty-from-within trend is overblown.

“It’s a Bridget Jones kind of product… but even she will only buy it once,” said Peter Wennström, chief
consultant at Swedish-based Healthy Marketing Team.

Wennström said the product lacked credibility. French consumer watchdog UFC-QC came to a similar
conclusion last year dismissing Essensis as a mere marketing concept that has no tangible effect on the
skin.

Those who buy into the magic of such products may therefore be viewed as“somewhat stupid”, to borrow a
phrase from Wennström.

Stupid or not, people are interested in the concept of beauty food and drink. In August last year, Mintel
published the findings of a US survey in which 16 percent of respondents said they want skin, nail, and hair
beauty benefits from their functional beverages.

So there is a market out there for beauty drinks but Danone has quite simply failed to reach out to those
Bridget Jones types who would lap them up.

Packed with vitamin E, green tea-derived antioxidants, probiotics and borage oil, Essensis has all the right
ingredients to attract the beauty consumer but was let down by an over-ambitious distribution strategy.

Danone launched Essensis in supermarkets alongside an array of big-branded and invariably cheaper
yogurts.

There was nothing that differentiated the product from its neighbors apart from unfamiliar beauty claims
and an inflated price tag.

Realizing that not enough had been done to set Essensis apart, Danone announced last year that it would
re-launch the yogurt in smaller Actimel style pots in 2009.

Too little, too late. Essensis needed more than just a packaging make-over to save it from the French scrap
heap.

New Nutrition Business magazine astutely diagnosed the supermarket as the cause of Essensis’s woe long
before the product was pulled from the shelves.

“That’s not a place where a brand can acquire any cachet or mystique,” the magazine wrote in October last
year. “Moreover, it’s easy for consumers to see that it’s a brand that’s at quite a premium to other yogurts.”

Most consumers are totally unfamiliar with the idea of beauty food and drinks and need to have the product
concept explained to them before they buy into it.

Nestle understood this and bypassed the supermarket aisles and launched its beauty drink Glowelle at
luxury retailer Neiman Marcus in the US where the drink will be sold alongside conventional cosmetics.

The product is the brainchild of Kimberly Cooper who told CosmeticsDesign.com that in supermarkets
beauty-from-within products have to compete with other big food and drink brands in front of consumers
that are not looking for cosmetics.

By contrast, consumers at a store like Neiman Marcus are looking for beauty products and have the means
to be unconcerned about how they affect their weekly food shopping bill. Sales assistants are also on hand
to explain what the new products are and how they work.
However, Mintel analyst Nica Lewis told CosmeticsDesign.com that the removal of Essensis from French
shelves does not prove conclusively that supermarkets are not appropriate for edible or drinkable cosmetics.
Lewis said the distribution debate is still open.

She pointed out that in Japan beauty foods and drinks are sold in both supermarkets and specialty stores.
This may be, but edible cosmetics are well-established in Japan where the adage “you are what you eat” is
truly engrained in the culture.

In Europe and North America, once the concept has been established and a sizable following gathered,
beauty foods may be ready to move into the supermarket. For the moment consumers are just not ready to
see a product like Essensis on the supermarket shelves.
Lychee extract to target US beauty foods
market
By Shane Starling, 09-Apr-2009
New York-based Maypro Industries is targeting a Japanese lychee extract at beauty and health
foods and beverages after it was self-affirmed GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) in the US.
Although many food, beverage, beauty food and dietary supplements companies value FDA-approved GRAS
more highly, the self-affirmation indicates the confidence Maypro and its Japanese partner that supplies the
branded ingredient have in the quality of the science backing its efficacy and safety.

The ingredient, Oliginol, is supplied by Amino Up Chemical Co. Ltd in Japan, and is found in one-shot juice
drinks, cookies, chocolates and dietary supplements there and marketed primarily on its ability to benefit
skin health, heart health and boost endurance and recovery for athletes.

Products bearing the ingredient are endorsed by about 50 mostly Japanese athletes but the number is
growing along with its sports nutrition credentials.

“The self-affirmed GRAS will help us broaden exposure for Oliginol in the US and we have a meeting with
the FDA this month to attain FDA-certified GRAS,” said Maypro director of business development, Dan Lifton.

“We have engaged the services of a top agency to assist us compiling our dossier for the FDA certification
and hope to attain it soon.”

He said the US market was in an infant state in regard to lychee despite the fact Oliginol had been on the
market as a New Dietary Ingredient and therefore available in the form of supplements since 2007.

Other lychee extracts from other companies are also present but Lifton said the extraction process used with
Oliginol meant its polyphenols levels were up to three times higher than other lychee forms.

In one study, Oliginol was ranked second behind strawberries in a survey of polyphenol content among a
selection of fruits.

Another recently completed study about to be submitted for peer review demonstrated skin benefits from
cosmeceutical applications in a sample group of 80.

“There is a lot of education that needs doing and we are engaging in radio advertising and PR. There have
been some very encouraging articles and awareness is starting to build,” Lifton said.