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1|Pa g e International Standard Serial Number (ISSN): 2319-8141

International Journal of Universal Pharmacy and Bio Sciences 6(2): March-April 2017

INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF UNIVERSAL


PHARMACY AND BIO SCIENCES
IMPACT FACTOR 2.96***
ICV 6.16***
PharmaceuticalSciences REVIEW ARTICLE................!!!

NEUTRICOSMETICS: REVIEW ARTICLE


Dhanashri Mahale1, Dr. Shital Gondkar 2 ,Dr. Ravindra Saudager3
1*
Department of Pharmaceutics, R. G. Sapkal College of Pharmacy, Anjaneri,
Nashik-422213, Maharashtra, India.
2
Department of Pharmaceutics, R. G. Sapkal College of Pharmacy,
Anjaneri, Nashik-422213, Maharashtra, India.
3
Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, R. G. Sapkal College of Pharmacy, Anjaneri,
Nashik- 422213, Maharashtra, India.

KEYWORDS: ABSTRACT

Pyrazolone, Anti- This chapter tries to present an overview about (i) nutricosmetic

inflammatory, Analgesic, ingredients that may not only act on skin, hair, and nails but also have a
Antimicrobial,
more systemic effect resulting in improved health and fitness; (ii) the
Anticonvulsant,
Antidepressant Activities. possible working mechanisms of such health and fitness enhancing

For Correspondence: nutricosmetics, focusing on the carotenoid and phenolic ingredients; and
Dhanashri Mahale*
(iii) the concept of combined nutria cosmetical cosmeceutical
Address:
Department of applications (i.e., combined oral and topical applications) and combined
Pharmaceutics, R. G.
nutriacosmetical physiotherapeutical interventions (i.e., combined oral
Sapkal College of
and exercise or massage applications).
Pharmacy, Anjaneri,
Nashik-422213,
Maharashtra, India.

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2|Page International Standard Serial Number (ISSN): 2319-8141

INTRODUCTION:
Nutricosmetics
The term "Nutricosmetics" is a result of the fusion of "Nutraceuticals" and "Cosmeceuticals."
They are ingestible natural health products that enhance the function and appearance of an
individual's skin, nails, and hair. They are a range of beauty supplements and functional foods and
beverages that claim to contain active ingredients and nutrients such as botanical actives, sterol
esters, lycopene, enzymes, proteins, minerals, and vitamins that enhance beauty and are
beneficial to health.
Nurturing Beauty through Nutrition examines the emerging market sector of nutricosmetics.
Anyone in the beauty, food, beverage or nutritional supplements industries will get value from this
report, to understand the developing global trends in the emerging market of nutricosmetics.
The nutricosmetics market it has been demonstrating growth of 10 to 12% annually.
The aging population spends billions of dollars each year on vitamins, minerals, botanical extracts,
and antioxidants in an effort to maintain a youthful appearance of the skin and promote overall
well-being. Hormonal imbalance, inflammation, smoking, exposure to UV radiation, and
environmental stressors contribute to the aging of the skin by production of reactive oxygen species
(ROS) that can potentially damage cell membranes, proteins, and DNA. This overload of oxidative
stress and a production of free radicals can eventually break down connective tissues and collagen,
and release chemicals that lead to cellular and molecular events that are evident as signs of aging,
such as the formation of wrinkles uneven skin tone, dyspigmentation, inflammation,
immunosuppression, photoaging photocarcinogenesis, and sagging skin. Nutricosmetics provide
nutritional antioxidant supplementation to support endogenous antioxidant enzymes that may help
to internally provide nutritional antioxidant supplementation to support endogenous antioxidant
enzymes that may help to internally.
Evolution of Nutricosmetics
Nutricosmetics is a combination of Nutritive and Cosmetic values, which promote the concept of
beauty through healthy food drinks. Nutricosmetics are Eco- friendly in nature and has wide
acceptance throughout the world. Nutricosmetics are products which when ingested have
preventive or reactive effects that offer beautification and/or personal hygiene benefits. They are
condition specific agents that enhance beauty internally. The ingestion of nutricosmetics is mainly
by supplements or by food fortification.

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Figure 1: Collaboration of Nutrition and Cosmetics

Figure 2: (a) & (b): Combination of Cosmetic, Nutrition and Pharmaceuticals.


Fig. Nutrition Pyramid for Nutricosmetics
Nutricosmetics are of two main categories: 18
a) Pill type nutricosmetics:
• Ingested as pills for purposes such as antiageing and skin care.
• Popular brands : Inneov by L’oreal and Nestle , Imedeen by Ferrosan, Olay line by Procter &
Gamble .
b) Drinkable nutricosmetics:
• Taken generally in liquid form, fortified with antioxidants, minerals and vitamins for better skin
care and body health.
• Popular brands: Essensis by Danones, Lumae by Coca Cola.
To date, most nutricosmetics include products that come in a beverage, pill form or functional
foods. Depending on what the consumer is seeking to achieve, most nutricosmetics can be found in
high-end boutique retail outlets or through the wellness and medical aesthetic industry. These
channels of distribution are where the educated and sophisticated shopper is seeking these types of
products. Professional grade lines will offer targeted benefits and sophisticated technology in their
formulations to ensure their products deliver results. Retail-based formulations provide a broader
scope of health benefits but are generally less effective over the long term.

Figure 3: Role of Nutricosmetics, Cosmetic, Nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical inside and


outside the body.
Table 1: Comparison between Cosmaceuticals & Nutricosmetic 18
Cosmeceuticals Nutricosmetic

Current estimated $66 billion skin care Estimated current nutricosmetics market
market is$1 to $2 billion

Sales of cosmeceuticals have grown into a US market for oral beauty products grew at
$14 billion industry worldwide ~16%between 2001 and 2006

Japan is a leader in beauty Continued US market growth,predicted


supplement,which account for market value of $1.3billion by 2011
15%or$319million of overall sales of
dietary supplements

In china,beauty supplement represent Market for nutricosmetics also


13%or $558mollion of overall dietary experienced~13% growth during the period
supplement sales 2001-2006 in Europe when it reached a
market value of $836mollions.
Figure 4: % coverage of various nutricosmetics
Nutricosmetic Ingredients:
1. Camellia sinesis : Green and Black tea
2. Caratenoid: Beta carotene and Lycopenes
3. Coenzyme Q10
4. Collagen
5. Hyaluronic Acid
6. Curcumin
7. Dates
8. Flavonoid/ Flavones: Cocoa
9. Fruits and Vegetables: Pomegranate, goji berry, acai berry
10. Grape seed extract
11. Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids
12. Phytosterol
13. Phytophenol: Olive oil
14. Vitamins: Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E
15. Aloes
16. Papaya
17. Cucumber
List of Nutricosmetic ingredients with its uses and Application
Sr. No. Name of Ingredient Nutricosmetic use
1. Camellia sinesis : Green and Black tea Skin softness, skin glowing,
Antioxidant
2. Caratenoid: Beta carotene and Lycopenes Antioxidants ,Skin softness
3. Coenzyme Q10 Antioxidants, antiageing
4. Collagen Skin softness, minimise lines and
wrinkles, skin moisture retention
5. Hyaluronic Acid Antiwrinkle, skin moisturizing agent
6. Curcumin Skin whitening agent
7. Dates Nourishing agent
8. Flavonoid/ Flavones: Cocoa Anti ageing
9. Fruits and Vegetables: Pomogranate, goji Antioxidant, anti ageing
berry, acai
10. Grape seed extract Antioxidant
11. Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids Anti- inflamatory
12. Phytosterol Antioxidant
13. Phytophenol: Olive oil Moisturizing agent
14. Vitamins: Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E Antioxident, Wound healling
15. Aloes Anti acne , skin smoothing
16. Papaya Anti acne , anti ageing spots, anti
dandruff, Sunspots, anti wrinkles
17. Cucumber Use in sunburn, Antioxidant.
Nutricosmetic Supplements
Supplements contain nutrients (peptides, vitamins, minerals, proteins, carotenes, and omega-3 fatty
acids) derived from food products, and are concentrated in a liquid, capsule, pill, or tablet form.
Their ability to provide nutritional support for the skin has helped them take the place of personal
care products that are applied on the face, body, or hair and are used to enhance beauty.
The Supplements segment dominated the market in 2013. They are widely available in the
supplement format and are mostly sold as OTC products in the market. Supplements also provide
the active ingredients in one full dose and hence, are convenient for end-users to consume. Most
vendors manufacture only supplements as it is the preferred format for the consumption of
nutricosmetics over food products and beverages. Overall, the segment is expected to grow rapidly
during the forecast period.
Nutricosmetic Food and Beverages
Nutricosmetic food and beverages are functional foods that have added ingredients or components,
which provide them not only with a nutritional effect, but also with specific medical or beauty
benefits. These products contain nutritive ingredients such as herbs, vitamins, minerals, amino
acids, and other active ingredients.
The concept of nutricosmetic food and beverages is not very popular worldwide. However, the
increase in demand for functional foods and beverages along with awareness of the
These biologically fortified beverages provide natural hydration benefits to the skin. Some of the
most popular beverages include herbal tea, fortified coffee, fruit and vegetable juices, and fortified
water. Snack bars, confectioneries, and bakery products are also highly popular among consumers.
NutricosmeticsMarketed Preparations
Perceptions about different beauty supplements
Safi
Safi was known among all the respondents. 90% of the respondents have used Safi atleast once.
None of them knew it was a nutricosmetic though they were aware of the benefits that it is used to
clear acne and acts as a blood purifier. No negative associations to the brand was there.
Seven Seas
Seven seas was also the brand where the awareness level among the respondents was quite high.
They were aware of few benefits like maintaining healthy hair, skin and nails but was not aware of
other benefits like maintaining strong bones & teeth, keeping the joints supple and flexible, release
of energy etc. The benefits of post consumption of seven seas was positive. The other respondents
who have not consumed it were willing to try it Positive associations to the brand was there.
Perceptions about different Health Supplements
ProteinX
Respondents who wanted to stay fit and build muscles were in favour of this product. The
awareness of this brand was high among respondents. Respondents who used this brand stated that
there was a positive difference in a moderate manner.
That the product was taken more due to the taste rather than the benefit. Other respondents were
willing to try this product.
Coach formula
Coach formula is also another protein supplement which is taken to build muscles. There are two
types of Coach Formula. One is the normal protein and other is the whey protein. Coach Formula
Creatine is the famous brand among the available brands under Coach formula. The respondent
stated that if it is mixed with water and if consumed going before gym, it has a positive effect. In
addition to the medicinal benefits, it creates a positive perception in the minds of people who
consume the product that it will build more energy. The associations to the brand was positive.
Recent Product Launched in Market
 Nutrawise (US) launched Youtheory Collagen Advanced Formula, a supplement that combines
three types of collagen into one product. Each tablet is formulated with collagen type 1 and 3 to
support healthy hair, skin, nails, tendons and ligaments, and collagen type 2 to provide complete
joint and bone support.
 The Spanish beverage company, Inbesa is introducing Sunlover—a beauty-from-within beverage
made with beta-carotene, vitamin A and amino acids debuting in Brazil and Portugal.
 Minerva Research Labs’s, Pure Gold Collagen is UK’s first hydrolyzed collagen drink, targeting
skin care and anti ageing. Pure Gold Collagen contains hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid,
borage oil and vitamins. ― Skincare starts with a sip‖
 Tea Forte, a US based provider of luxury teas has launched new Skin-Smart teas. Containing
plant based polyphenols and catechins, these teas are anti ageing teas.
 Reserveage Organics ( France) launched two Beauty-From-Within supplements for men and
women to its existing line of nutricosmetics. The products—Beautiful Legs for women and Keratin
Booster for Men—offer restorative and nourishing solutions for hair, nails and skin. Beautiful Legs
combines the flavonoid diosmin ( from citrus) with other supportive nutrients, such as grapeseed
extract, butcher’s broom, horse chestnut and resveratrol, to provide comprehensive support for
healthy leg vein and tone. Keratin Booster includes Cynatine, resveratrol ( polyphenols from
grapes), saw palmetto and beta sitosterol ( plant derived ingredients)
 Earlier this year, Nestle announced the withdrawal of Glowelle. Glowelle is a fortified water
drink that contains vitamins, Lycopene, Lutein, Selenium, Quercetin and other botanical and fruit
extracts aimed at enhancing skin health and tackling signs of ageing. Nestle plans to re-launch a
next generation Glowelle in 2012.
 In October 2010 Nestle launched Nesfluid, a range of drinks under the Hydranutrition concept.
Nesfluid’s basis is made of coconut water and whey and the drink is available in 6 recipes, each
enriched with fruit juices, plant extracts and micronutrients according to the specific requirements
of its target population.
 Bodefit is used as a drink to lose weight and to control obesity problems. Product contains
antioxidants, minerals and phytochemical agents. Preparation should be reconstituted with warm
water, having a chocolate taste. Three months usage will give reproducible results.
Global Nutricosmetic Market Drivers
According to Euromonitor International, the global nutricosmetics market was worth $1.5bn in
2008, with a 95% share of sales generated in Europe and Japan. The global market for
nutricosmetics is forecast to reach US$4.24 billion by the year 2017, driven by the increasing
desire to move beyond conventional beauty solutions. Growing consumer awareness about
balanced diet for outer and inner beauty and health is driving innovations and developments at a
furious pace. Hitherto targeted primarily at older women aged 40 years and above,
nutricosmetics products are now finding increasing acceptance among the younger generation
women as well as men.
Stringent regulations in the US mean that the market is in its relative infancy compared to
elsewhere, representing just a 3% share, but the analyst says interest is growing as American
consumers Become acquainted with a wide array of functional foods and drinks that promote health
And beauty benefits. Nutricosmetics have seen growth in Japan thanks to its sophisticated FOSHU
legislation system. The market has reached a level of maturity not seen anywhere else and even has
specialist retailers exclusively selling beauty supplements. According to Euromonitor 16% of all
supplements sold in Japan are positioned as beauty supplements. The market is growing in Europe
too. In Germany for example Euromonitor says 11% of total Supplements sold are beauty focused,
while in the UK, the nutricosmetics market will be worth £191m in 2009, with 1.8 million users,
according to Mintel. ―Women are not afraid to try out nutricosmetics and
Are open to the idea of sampling products that offer a range of benefits, as long as they are
palatable and fit well with a busy lifestyle,‖ says Eleni Grammenou, Euromonitor’s OTC health care
analyst. ―People are starting to experiment with other lifestyle philosophies, such as LOHAS,‖
adds Judi Beerling, technical research manager, Organic Monitor. ―The idea of nutricosmetics,
of looking after your body both inside and outside fits with this.‖
According to Euromonitor International, the nutricosmetics market was worth 1.5 billion in 2008,
with 95 percent of sales coming from Europe and Japan. Japan being the most mature of these
markets, they are now widely accepted among Japanese consumers as ingestible products and are a
critical component to their beauty regimens. In Europe, this market is mainly concentrated in
France, Italy, Germany the United Kingdom and Spain. It is believed the European consumer is
driven to nutricosmetics mainly by anti-aging concerns. In a recent report by Kline Group,
nutricosmetics is tiny in comparison to other personal care markets but is growing significantly
faster than other beauty se
Recently, nutricosmetics has made its way into the U.S. market through a variety of nutraceuticals,
beverages and functional foods targeted to beautify the body from within. These products are often
derived from vitamins, minerals, isolates, botanical extracts and antioxidants.
They are generally formulated to:
* Promote healthy skin through antioxidant protection, hydration and control inflammation
* Photo-protectant properties (protecting the skin from UV oxidative stress)
* Promote healthy hair and nails
* Promote slimming
NORTH AMERICA
Customers are sceptical to nutricosmetics due to the cultural emphasis on scientific evidence and
instant gratification that nutricosmetics don’t provide Stricter regulations in the US are curbing
largescale success in comparison to other regions across the globe. The US market, although still in
a nascent stage of development, displays great potential for future development and is forecast to
expand at a high CAGR of over 14% through 2017.
BRAZIL
It is likely that nutricosmetics will flourish in Brazil because they are piggybacking on the success
of the country's large cosmetics industry. Brazil is expected to grow to an important Nutricosmetic
market in global terms. country's large cosmetics industry
EUROPE
Europe currently constitutes about 55% of the global market for nutricosmetics. Mounting pressure
from the consumers as well as regulatory authorities in Europe is driving the need for scientific
validation to back the numerous beauty and wellness claims of products
CHINA
Fast growing market. Nutricosmetic sales in China are expected to take over sales of Japan by
2015.
JAPAN
One of the current leading markets. High consumer confidence may be attributed to trust in the
FOSHU (Foods for Specified Health Uses) seal of approval instituted by the Japanese Ministry of
Health and Welfare.
Nutricosmetics in India
In India alternative medicine is well accepted and corporate like Dabur and Baidyanath have been
successfully marketing a number of products. Indian market potential is huge and considering the
possibility of exporting some of the native products, scope exists for new entrants into this area.
India has a promising nutricosmetics market despite a lack of regulations, largely because of deeply
rooted Ayurvedic principles. Younger demographics, more disposable income, modernization and
consequent changes in diet have shifted nutricosmetics from day to day foods to supplements. India
is home to almost all kinds of plants ranging from tropical, subtropical and temperate zone plants.
Also the advantage of knowledge based remedies give India tremendous leads in finding newer
applications (because of Ayurveda). There is wide scope of studies in India.
Key Global players in the ingredient / nutricosmetic Space

Nutricosmetic industries:
• Ranbaxy Lab, Gurgaon
• Samis lab, Hyderabad
• Dabur, Ghaziabad
•Wockhardt Limited, Mumbai
• Lupin Pharma, Mumbai
• Himalaya Herbal Health Care, Bangaluru
• Amway, Nestle, Revlon, Danones etc...
Product variation by Geography
 Bottled water is by far the best-selling format in beauty-from-within foods and drinks. With
sales of $737 million globally in 2010, the category has increased its already sizeable lead
from $718 million in 2006.
 The second largest beauty food and drink category is dairy, with global sales of $119
million in 2010. Of this figure, the vast majority is accounted for by yogurt.
 Asia has the highest number of new products in the functional beauty benefits area where
drinks, yoghurt and soup are the primary categories.
 In Europe drink categories such as tea and drinkable yoghurt, as well as fruit snacks are
seeing the most launches.
Popular Nutricosmetic brands
 Borba has a wide range of Nutricosmetic products- beauty supplements, skin care water, skin
care drink mixes. Their water is enriched with Vitamins A, C and E, and other fruit extracts and is
available in six formulas- Age Defying, Clarifying, Replenishing, Firming, Anti-Aging and Skin
Calming. Borba products also include antioxidant packed gummy bears and jelly beans.
 The dietary supplement has health benefits like toning, anti-ageing, anti-hair loss, sun tanning,
anticellulite and dry skin. Inneov plans to enter China by next year and may also expand markets to
Latin America.
 IMEDEEN skincare supplements are recognized worldwide as the gold standard in skincare.
Imedeen categorizes products based on customers’ age groups and it provides specific products to
treat different conditions. It has products for women and men Products include Derma One, Time
Perfection, Prime Renewal, Management, Tan optimizer and products for Hair & Nails.
 Glisodin (developed by Isocell laboratories, Paris specializing in antiaging medicine) is a non
GMO melon extract that is rich in superoxide dismutase supplement that promotes body’s natural
Anti-oxidant system. This whole line of nutricosmetic supplements cater to antiaging. It helps to
retain the moisture and fights signs of ageing.
 Protein M+ (contains chondroitin sulfate and collagen) from Copalis is known for its synergistic
effect on skin and has been positioned for delayed aging process. Copalis is based in France and is
focused on marine bioactives Other products include Collactive, CollagenHM, and Prolastin for
skin elasticity.
 Biocell Technology LLC is an exclusive supplier of patented biocell collagen II ( contains
chondrotin Sulphate, Hyaluranic acid and hydrolyzed collagen II) positioned for joint health and
skin health.
 Nightly beauty is a beauty enhancing hot chocolate drink with collagen II-based dietary
supplement from biocell that has been positioned for skin health. It is available in three different
flavours–chocolate, chocolate chai, and vanilla. It also contains vitamins, natural oxidants, and
sleep enhancing extracts that result in vibrant skin
Future trends in Nutricosmetics
Historically, plant ingredients have been used in topical and oral applications for various
dermatological benefits. Topically used ingredients are directly applied to the skin and hair.
However, large molecules (vitamins, peptides) cannot penetrate to the lower skin layers without
additional transport systems. Orally ingesting bioactive nutrients avoids external oxidation and can
increase bioavailability. Additionally, efficient long term effects on deeper skin layers can be
continuously achieved through bloodstream supply. Because of these different delivery systems, the
most efficient way to fully exploit the natural potential seems to combine the benefits of
nutricosmetics and cosmetics; both from the inside and on the outside. The main purpose of
nutricosmetics is to slow down the ageing process through botanical ingredients with antioxidant
properties which fight against cell damaging free radicals. Nutricosmetics can also help to replenish
essential nutrients for healthy skin that decline with age.
Beauty drinks and beverages currently seem to be the strongest growing segment in beauty market.
They benefit from combining the natural hydration effect with bioactive fortification. The most
highly demanded products are herbal teas (red, green, black), followed by exotic fruit and
CONCLUSION
It is well known that a balanced diet is important for our health. Our skin, hair and nails are
sensitive indicators of nutritional deficiencies. As a consequence, food, drinks and dietary
supplements with anti ageing benefits are currently the most innovative products on the beauty
market. These so called ―nutricosmetics‖ promise to support healthy skin, hair and nails.
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