Camera Stabilizer Plans Steady Steadi Steadicam Stedy

---~---
SHE

Aninst:rUCtional Jnanual on how-to· build a ~ stabilizer rig

by Cody Deegan

Table ofConrenrs

Tools Needed

Introduction

Building the Sled

Building the Arm

Building the Front-Mount Vest

Setting up the Stabilizer _-----

Extension Spring Chart

How to Balance

Checking Z-axis tilt

Checking X-axis tilt

Building a Low-Angle Bracket

Building a Balancing Stand

Safety Tips

Building the Back-Mount Vest

5

6

8

31

59

60

61

66

73

77

Tools Needed

Ruler with measurements in 16ths Flexible measuring tape

Power hand drill

Drill press*

Drill press vise* Chop saw*

- 3/8",7/16", 112" wrenches and/or sockets allen wrenches

Phillips screwdriver

Centerpunch

Metal file

55/64",27/32", 112",5/16", 1/4",3/16" a-m bits

10-24 tap and matching #25 drill bit 1/4-20 tap and matching #7 drill bit 5/16-18 tap and matching 17/64" drill bit 3/8-16 tap

T-handle tap wrenches 112" rotary file

2" xl" 60 grit flap wheel bubble level

hammer

pencil

C-clamps

Rattail file

45-45-90 triangle

Dremel tool (optional)

* A local metal shop can do all the cutting and drilling, as well as the 2 welds needed. Measure everything out beforehand and mark it all dearly. The less work the shop has to do, the cheaper the price.

Camera Stabili.zer Plans 5

The vest allows for adjustments in size, but the builder may need to alter the design to suit the operator's unique build and stature.

INTRODUCTION

The camera stabilizer represented in these plans has been designed solely for the purpose of achieving a simple, durable, yet economical construction coupled with extreme functionality. A Canon XL-I was used to test the rig, and performance was exceptional.

Given the weight of

the camera fully loaded was about 8 pounds, anyone using this design for other cameras will need to be aware that different springs will

be needed - there

is no spring-tension adjustment on the

arm. Instructions for

proper setup of differing camera/monitor/battery combinations are included.

adjusted easily up and down the main shaft of the sled.

The rig is constructed almost entirely in aluminum to assure a durable and somewhat light-weight setup, but be aware that building this stabilizer is a labor-intensive project Having a metal shop cut all the aluminum and drill all the holes is convenient, but expensive.

The majority of the materials can be found at a hardware store. A few items may need to be ordered. The plans include a list of all materials needed and step-bystep instructions on how to construct the stabilizer, with clear, concise illustrations throughout.

The stage can be fine tuned left

- right and forward - back. The sled telescopes from 22 inches to 40 inches. The gimbal assembly utilizes six bearings for fluidity, can be fine-tuned for balance requirements, and can be

6 Camera Stabilizer Plans

NOTES

The Manfrotto 679 monopod can be found at many online camera shops. It is also referred to as a Bogen 3016.

Metal fabrication, welding, and machine shops should have aluminum. The stabilizer represented in these plans was built with 5000 and 6000 series aluminum.

For the main gimbal bearing, there are many online shops if one cannot be found locally. There is no high-speed movement involved with a stabilizer so almost

any bearing will work (Obviously bearings can be extremely varied and an actual Steadicam rig would require tight tolerances on its bearings, but that subject is

~ beyond the scope of this manual). Skateboard bearings are easily found in any skate shop. ABEC 3 or 5 are preferable. Flanged bearings are more expensive but are much easier to work with. Keep in mind this manual deals with the use of skate bearings.

Cork/rubber gasket material and weatherstrip adhesive can be found at an automotive supply store.

1050 Denier Cordura can be difficult to locate and expensive. Please note that virtually any medium to heavy-weight fabric will work fine.

Foam padding can be found at fabric stores and is easily cut with scissors or a knife.

Most of the sewing can be done with a sewing machine, but expect to do some by hand as well.

All nuts and bolts are coarse thread - not fine. They are considered a UNC type. Stop nuts are also called lock nuts with nylon inserts.

If holes are not lining up precisely when as s emb ling , hold the pieces together and use a power hand drill to run a bit through the parts in question.

Please ensure everything is tightened down securely before use. Camera Stabilizer Plans can assume no responsibility for damage to equipment due to poor craftsmanship or misuse.

Camera Stabilizer Plans 7

Quantity

Size

Description

(1) Manfrotto 679
(1) 118" X 13" X 13"
(1) 114" X 1 1/2" X 10"
(1) 118" x I" X 30"
(1) 1/4" X 2 112" ID xl"
(1) 1/16" X I" OD X 2 112"
(1) 1116" X 3/4" X 25 118"
(1) 1 1/S" X 2 1/2" X SIS"
(5) 5116" ID X 7/8" OD
(1) 10-24 X 112"
(12) 10-24 X 1/2"
(12) 10-24
(12) 10-24
(2) 1/4-20 X 5"
(1) 114-20 x l "
(9) 114-20 X 3/4"
(12) 114"
(1) 114-20
(2) 1/4-20
(8) 1/4-20 X l/4"
(1) 5116-1S X 2 112"
(2) 5/16-18 X 1 1/2"
(3) 5/16-18
(3) 5/16-18
(1) 314" X 118"
(1) I" ill
(2) 1 3/4" X 6 3/4"
(1) small tube
(2) individual
(1) 1" 8 (amera Stabilizer Plans

three-section monopod flat aluminum

flat aluminum

aluminum angle aluminum pipe

aluminum pipe (optional) aluminum square tube

pan ball bearing skateboard wheel bearings socket head set screw machine screws

washers

hex nuts

hex bolts

hex bolt

allen socket screws washers

wing nuts

nuts

set screws (allen)

hex bolt (full thread)

hex bolts

stop nut

hex nuts

galvanized bushing 90-degree EMT elbow (std rad) cork/rubber gasket material

3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive bubble levels

shaft collar (optional)

~--------8n--------~

*

~ ...... 0 .. ~"-",;

The base, camera plate, battery plates, x-axis plate, and z-axis plate can all be cut from the 1/8" x 13"x 13" fiat aluminum. Carefully measure and layout all cut lines. Allow at least 1/16" space for each cut.

Camera StabiLizer Plans 9

The shape of the base is not necessary - I had originally modeled my design after the Glidecam and later realized the shape serves no purpose.

.1:1 = 3/16" hole

--Efr = #7 hole

4"

4"

base

10 Camera Stahllizer Plal15

12112"

41/2"

.. ~

I 1/4"

After all the pieces are cut out, ensure all edges are smoothed down. Layout measurements for the holes and the slots as shown. Use a centerpunch to mark the center of each hole. It is recommended to have a metal shop cut the long, rectangular slots. A less efficient method would be

to drill two adjacent holes at the start of each slot to allow a reciprocating saw blade access. Use a dremel tool after the cuts to smooth out the slot.


- -+- cut/f

~CUL

5"

~-+-cut 2"

poleB

pole C

discard~

Dismantle the monopod completely. Cut a 5" section fron JP(Q)~A - this will be the ~~. Cut a 2" section from Pole B- this will be a reducer for the gimbal handle. Remove the top stoppers from Pole 18 and JP>@ll@ C.


~]) needs to be welded to the center of the x-axis plate.

~Cneeds to be welded to the center of the base plate.

43/4" ,/

---1Jr

4514"

* : 3116" hole

AfTer drillingTfm" .. gh, widen Th_ hulti 10 1/2"

Pole B

Pole C

From the 1/16" x 3/4" x 25 1/8" aluminum square tube, cut two 12 1/2" pieces. Drill two 3/16" holes in each as shown above using the holes in the . , as a guide. Widen one side to 1/2". Insert four 10-24 x 1/2" screws with washers into the widened holes using a magnetized screwdriver. Attach to the sled base with four 10-24 nuts.


Cut a slit on three sides of the ~ ~ about an inch long (a jigsaw works well for this).

The main bearing needs to fit into the 2 1/2" ID X I" aluminum pipe. Use

a 60-grit flap wheel mounted to a hand drill to sand down the inside of the pipe until the bearing fits snugly inside.

Let the pipe cool down after sanding before trying to insert the bearing. If not, the aluminum will contract and the bearing will be extremely difficult to remove.


File about an inch down the length of the guides to allow the tube to slide freely on the main shaft.

Lay the bearing on a smooth, hard surface. Position the slitted-end of the slide into the bearing. Rest a block of wood on top of the tube and gently pound with a hammer until the slide is completely inserted (fig. 1). Using a rotary file attached to a hand drill, file down the raised guides inside the tube at the bearing end (fig.2).

Use a right angle to ensure the slide is perpendicular to the bearing (fig.3). Use the hammer to adjust the slide if needed. Next, insert the bearing (with slide attached) into the aluminum pipe collar. If the bearing will not go in, take a larger pipe and place it onto the bearing. Using the block of wood, gently hammer the bearing into the collar.

fig. 3


Attach the fastener to the end of the tube.

16 Camera Stabtl.izer Plans

Slide the gimbal assembly onto Pole B.

Put a fastener on ~ C and then insert ~ CO into ~·B. Attach the fastener to the end of Mt;Im.

With the sled fiat on the floor, tape a pencil securely to a door frame at gimbal height. Use a level against the main shaft to assure it is perfectly verticaL Wedge washers underneath the base to adjust if necessary. Set the middle of the collar against the pencil and slowly rotate the bearing until a line has been drawn completely around the collar.

Remove the bearing from the collar. Using a cloth measuring tape, VBRYCARBFOlLY mark out two points equal distance from each other along the pencil line (one method is to measure completely around the collar and then divide by two).

Choose a mark, . measure out 1/4" on both sides of it, and plot two more points.

Secure the collar in a vise and mark all four points with a centerpunch. Drill the three grouped points with a 5/16" drill bit, and the point on the opposite side with a 17/64" drill bit. Thread the 17/64" hole with a 5/16-18 tap.

Camera Stahilizer Pians 17

At the points where the three holes intersect, the drill bit can be used again to remove the tips of metal. A dremel tool will easily smooth out the slot.

Layout four marks equidistant from each other on the pencil line (measure around the pipe and divide the measurement by four). A 17/64" hole that was just drilled should lay halfway between two of the marks. Centerpunch and drill with a #7 bit. Thread all four holes with a 1/4-20 tap.

Cut a 1/8" x 5/8" xl" piece of aluminum

..

angle and set it on the collar overlapping

the slot. Use a pencil to mark the slot opening onto the angle piece.

~

Also mark where the cr;

inside edge of the collar meets the angle.

17/64"


15/32" The idea here is to place a 17/64" hole in the angle bracket that lines up with the slot in the collar, and also to place a #25 hole in the bracket that will allow

17/64"

a set screw to pass through and rest

against the inside of the collar. Remove the excess metal from the top of the

angle piece with a grinder.

CUT

Set the angle piece

in a vise with the slot marks facing up and mount to the drill

press. Use the pencil marks as a guide to line up a 17/64" drill bit in the center of the angle bracket. Drill the hole and then thread it with a 5/16-18 tap.

#25 drill bit

17/64" drill bit

Adjust the aluminum angle in the vise so the other side is facing up. Use the pencil mark to line up a #25 drill bit in the center of the angle. Drill the hole and thread with a 10-24 tap.

Carner« Stabilizer Plal15 19

Reinsert the bearing into the collar, then screw in four 1/4-20 x 1/4" set screws to hold the bearing in place.

From the 114" x 1 112" x 10" flat aluminum, layout measurements and cut the metal into ("1'"""illowed(DTCU<) three pieces. Grind all the edges smooth.

3 5116"

3 3/8"

(space aUow"d ~r CUT)

If you are using a chop saw to cut the metal, you can use the side of the saw blade as a grinder to smooth out the edges after a cut.


Weld the three pieces together into a If-shape, Maintain a 3 3/8" distance between the vertical pieces.

--$- = 27/32" hole

-$- = 17/64" hole

3 3/8"

'VELD

WELD

Measure and mark the location for a 27/32" hole on one of the vertical pieces. Set the entire Ujoint on the edge of a table to centerpunch the mark.

To accurately find the center point for the 17/64" hole, tape a bubble level LENGTHWISE on top of the U-joint, hold a pencil vertically with the tip up and balance the U-joint on the lead.

Adjust the U'-joint on the pencil until it is balanced. Mark the balancing point. Reposition the U-joint on the pencil and lay the bubble level CROSSWISE. Adjust the U'-joint until it is balanced. Mark the spot. Centerpunch where the pencil marks intersect.


Don't forget to drill the 17/64" hole in the center of the U'-joint. Use a 5/16-18 tap to thread the hole.

27/32" driLl hi<:

Set the V -joint on a piece of wood and clamp to the drill press table. Line up a 27/32" drill bit with the centerpunched mark on the Ll-joint and drill through both vertical pieces.

Next, use a 55/64" drill bit and pass it through the top hole. Then flip the Ujoint over and pass the 55/64" drill bit through the other hole. What this does is to widen the 27/32"

holes just slightly

55164" driH'bi1: enough to allow the skateboard bearings to fit.

Lay the U -joint over the edge of a sturdy table. Place a bearing on the hole just drilled, set a piece of wood over the bearing, then use a hammer to pound the bearing tightly into the Ujoint. Make sure the bearing is flush. Put another bearing into the other side.


157/8"

Cut the ends off the EMT pipe as

\15/32" shown. Insert the 2" piece of pipe cut from the monopod into the straighter end of the curved pipe

by placing a piece of wood over it and pounding with a hammer.

41/8"

The smaller pipe acts

as a reducer to create a tighter fit for the bearings which will be added in a later step.

5 /16" stop nut

Insert a 5/16-18 x 2 112" full thread hex bolt through the If-joint and add (3) bearings, (3) 5/16-18 hex nuts, and a 5/16-18 stop

nut.

3/4" x 1/8'1 btL'5hing

,I Pound a bushing into the end of the EMT pipe with a hammer, then drill a #7 hole through the pipe and the bushing. The hole does not need to go completely through - just drill to the center of the bushing.


To accurately find the hole placements for the gimbal handle, line up the end of the EMT pipe with the center of the first nut on the U -joint bearing assembly.

The space between the bearings should be about 1/4", just enough room to insert two

1/4-20 set screws. Mark four lines on the EMT pipe that coincide with these spaces and centerpunch two points directly in the center of the lines. Drill two #7 holes through one side of the pipe only.

Mark a point on the other side of the EMT pipe

that coincides with the center of the first bearing. Centerpunch and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit.

24 Camera Stabilizer Plafl5

Now mark a point on the top of the EMT pipe that coincides with the center of the first bearing (make sure the front of the pipe is still lined up with the center of the first nut). Centerpunch the point and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit.

Thread all five holes in the EMT pipe with a 1/4-20 tap.

Insert the V-joint bearing assembly into the pipe.

First, screw in two 1/4-20 x 1/4" set screws into the "spacer" holes. These keep the assembly from falling out of the pipe. If you tighten them too much, they will contact the nuts and the assembly will not turn. Next, insert two set screws onto the first bearing. These keep the assembly from wobbling around inside the pipe. If you tighten them too much, the bearing will distort and not turn freely. Spin the Vjoint to make sure it rotates freely, then jiggle it to make sure it does not wobble around. Adjust the set screws if necessary. When satisfied, a bit of J - B weld can be used on each set screw to hold it in place. This step is optional due to its permanency.

Use a 1/4-20 x 3/4" socket head screw for the hole at the bottom of the pipe. This is used to lock the pipe to the arm, which eliminates any jolts that can occur while running with the rig.


Take two 5/16-18 x 11/2" full thread hex bolts and mount a 5/16-18 stop nut on each. Insert the bolts through the bearing holes in the If-joint.

This completes the assembly of the gimbal mechanism. Instructions for how to adjust the gimbal to achieve a dynamic balance are explained at tbe end of the book.


Thread one directly into the main collar. Thread the other one through the right angle bracket and into the slot in the collar until it seats against the main bearing. Insert a 10-24 x 1/2" socket head screw down through

the bracket until it seats firmly against the bearing.

'6" = 3/16" hole • =#7 hole

3/8"

7/16"

114"-C

Four pieces need to be cut from the aluminum angle: two 8" partsand two 5" parts. The 8" pieces need slots cut. Drill all holes as shown using the_ plate holes as a guide for the 8" pieces and the .,. holes as a guide for the 5" pieces. Tap the #7 holes with a 1/4-20 tap.

camera lare

t

Attach the slotted 8" aluminum angle pieces to the ~_"usjng four 10-24 x 1/2" screws, four 10-24 washers, and four 10-24 nuts.


Use a 1/4-20 tap to thread the #7 holes in

the Use

four 10-24 x 1/2" screws, four 10-24 washers, and four 10-24 nuts to attach the 5" aluminum angle pieces to the 11- plate.


Put the camera plate assemblyonto the z-axis plate assembly.

Mount the entire stage assembly onto the Jtiite. Secure it

with four 1/4" washers and four 1/4-20 x 3/4" allen socket screws going up through the slots. Insert four 1/4" x 3/4" allen socket screws with washers through the sides of the stage assembly.

Put a 1/4" wingnut backwards on a 1/4" xl" hex bolt. Insert the bolt

Insert two 114" x 5" bolts with two 1/4" washers through the holes in the ~~. Runthe bolt ends through the slot in the sled l§mD. Add the other~~two 1/4" washers, and secure with two 1/4" nuts.

Please aote: this battery bmdtet is desiped for a Po1ftr Sonic 1250 red:larpabJe u-voIt battery. Altemtio.as wm need to be made for diffaeat battmes.

base

Camera Stabiilzer Plans 29

U sing weatherstrip adhesive, attach cork gasket material to the ~~.

If more weight is needed on the base:

Slide a 1" od x 2 112" pipe over the lower shaft. Add dumbbell weights to the pipe (see page 59 for proper amount of weight to use). AI" shaft collar can be mounted above the weights to hold in place. Put the gimbal assembly onto the upper shaft. Reassemble the sled and lock down the

fasteners.


Bubble levels can be attached with weatherstrip adhesi ve, one lengthwise and one crosswise. They can be placed on the camera stage or on the base to assist in balancing the sled.

Quantity Size Description
(1) 118" X 1 1/4" X 40" aluminum square tube
(1) 1/8 "X 1" X 7 6 " aluminum square tube ~
(4) 1/8" X 2 112" X 2 1/2 J) flat aluminum
(1) 1/4"X 3"x 14" steel angle
(24) 5/16" ID x 7/8" OD ABEC 3 skateboard wheel bearings tu
(22) 5/16 " washers
~
(31) 10-24 x 2" machine screws
(21) 10-24 washers ~
(23) 10-24 hex nuts
(8) 114-20 x 2" bolts (grade 8) ~
(8) 1/4 " washers
(8) 1/4-20 stop nuts
(11) 5/16-18 X 4" hex bolts (full thread)
' .....
(22) 5116-18 hex nuts '\j
(11) 5116-18 stop nuts
(1) 3/8-16 x 1 1/4" hex bolt (full thread-grade 8) , J
(4) .75" x 4. 5 "x rn extension springs (see chart p.60) ' .....
~
~
C"mera Stabilizer Plans 31 (8)

1/2"

1/2"

---

'* =I/4"hole -+", 17/64"hole

Eight "bones" need to be cut from the 118" x I" x 76" aluminum square tube. Each bone is 9" in length. Measure and cut one at a time. Grind or file the edges after each cut.

ruler pencil

1/2"

Take a bone and measure in from the edge 1/2" on both ends as shown. Mark the spots with a pencil.

Now lay the ruler so that both marks rest on its edge and connect them with a pencil line.


On the side of the bone, measure across 7/8" from one end, 1/2" up from the edge, and mark with a pencil. This is where a 1/4" hole will be drilled. Centerpunch.

17/64" ddll bit 5/16" drill bit

1 drill bit

'l-handle tap wrench 3/8-16 tap

5/16-18 tap Cvclamp

Set the marked tube onto another tube and clamp them both to the drill press table. Make sure the bones are

fl ush with each other. Drill a 17/64" hole at each centerpunched mark completely through both bones.

hammer centerpunch

Measure down the center line 1/2" from each end and make a pencil mark. Set a centerpunch at each mark and give it a good tap with a hammer.


Remember the mark you made

for the 1/4" hole on the side of the first tube? Set this bone on top of another and drill the hole through both tubes.

Take one of the bones just drilled and use it as a template: set it onto one of the undrilled tubes. Use the holes

as a guide to line up

the drill bit and bore through both bones. Repeat this process for all the remaining bones so that they all have the exact same hole placements.

1/4" driU bit:

I use a little rattail file in each of the holes after they are drilled to remove any excess metal, This makes putting in crews much easier.

34 Camera Stabilizer PlallS

Use one of the bones just drilled as a template to drill the 1/4" holes into the remaining bones. Make sure the tubes are correctly oriented as shown and

- flush with each other.

You'll need seven steel angle pieces for the 'wrist, elbow, and shoulder joints. I cut mine from a 1/4" x 3" x 14" piece of steel angle using a chop saw. Mark, centerpunch, and drill a hole in each one as shown. Drill a 5/16" hole centered in one piece and thread it with a 3/8-16 tap. Use a protective spray paint on all pieces.

Thread each of the 17/64" holes on all eight bones with a 5116-18 tap.

1 9/16"

3/16" holes

3/16"

(6)

1 9/16"

3/16"

(1 )

Camera Sta bilize.r PlallS 35

-.============~~---- - - -

5"
CUT

~
1-1 5"
tIl
0
P-
CUT

U
tJ 5"
fJ)
0
P-
CUT
40"
A
5" CUT
51/4"
CUT
N
5 51/4"
;;3
q)
..... CUT
b
~ 31/4"
;:l
c
.....c
tJ)
CUT
~
31/4" 36 Camera Stabilizer Plans

Using a 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 40" piece of aluminum square tube, measure and cut eight sections. These will be the POSTS, ELBOW, and SHOULDER.

Measure one piece at a time and cut, otherwise the posts will be too short from the excess metal that is removed during the actual cutting process.

Set the angle piece with the threaded hole flush against the top portion of post A. Trace the holes from the angle onto the post. Centerpunch and drill the post with a 3/16" drill bit.

Layout two crosshair measurements on post A as shown and centerpunch.

w = 27/32" hole

5!8"t

elbow 1

.J_

~ = 27/32" hole

31/4"

shoulderl

27/32" drill bit

?7/3?" d '1·1 bi _ ~ _ fl. rt

55/64" drill hit 314" drill hit 3/16" drill bit

Layout measurements on elbow 1. Centerpunch at the two crosshairs, then place elbow 1 flush atop elbow 2, clamp to the drill press table (on a piece of wood), and drill completely through both tubes with a 27/32" drill bit. Repeat the process with shoulder 1 atop shoulder 2.


On the elbow parts, drill through each hole individually with a 55/64" drill bit.

55164" drill hit:

~ ~

Center two 1/8" X 2 112" x 2 1/2" flat aluminum pieces on both sides of the tubes and drill four 3/16" holes through all components. Attach the plate with four 10-24 x 2" screws and four 10-24 nuts.

Repeat the process for the shoulder pieces. Make sure the screws do not lie in the path of the bearing holes.

Align a bearing up with the two top holes of elbow 1 and the two bottom holes of elbow 2. Set each one in with a piece of wood and a hanuner. Do the same with the shoulder pieces.

38 Camera Stabitizer Plal15

_______________ ______J

Layout crosshair measurements as shown and centerpunch.

Set the steel angle pieces with the shorter sides flush ............. ::;::..........--~~ against the posts as shown and mark the hole placements. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16" drill bit.

postB

and post D

27/32" drill bit:

posc C

55/64" drill bit 27/32" drill bit C-c1amp

Set post D onto post C and clamp to the drill press table. Use a 27/32" drill bit to bore completely through both posts at the crosshairs on post D. Then remove the posts from the drill press and clamp post A onto post B. Also drill two 27/32" holes through both pieces.

~------------------~

Camera Stabilizer PltWS 39

55/64" drill bit:

I hammer

block of wood

Place a skateboard bearing onto one of the holes of post D. Set a piece of wood on top of the bearing, then pound gently until the bearing is seated flush inside the post. Set three more bearings into the post.

It may be necessary to file the inside edges of the 55/64" holes slightly with a round file or rotary file to allow insertion of the bearings.

Next, use a 55/64" drill bit and pass it through all four holes in each post one-by-one. The purpose for this step is as follows: when drilling completely through the posts with the 27/32" drill bit, the top hole may widen slightly

as the bottom boles are being bored. To bring all the holes back to the same size, it is necessary to drill each one individually with a slightly bigger bit.

Repeat this process for the remaining three posts.


Attach two of the steel angle pieces to post B and post D as shown with six 10-24 x 2" screw, six 10-24 washers, and six 10-24 nuts.

Phillips screwdriver 3/8" wrench or socket

Attach the two more steel angle pieces to post C with six 10-24 x 2" screws, six washers, and six nuts.

Attach the angle piece to post A as shown.

1 " 7/8

(3) 10-24 x 2" machine screws (3) 10-24 washers

(3) 10-24 hex nuts

Mark a hole placement on the bottom of the steel angles on both arm segments. This part is a little tricky: Set each bracket assembly on a piece of wood and clamp

to the drill press table. Make sure the clamp is not in the path of the dril1 bit. Drill a 5/16" hole through both angle pieces in one pass. If the bit will not reach the bottom angle, stop the drill and raise the table with the bit still inside the first hole, then proceed.


-------

----

two C-clamps 1 !2" wrench or socket two 7! 16" wrenches or sockets

(8) 5/16" washers

(4) 5/16~18 x 4" full thread hex bolts

Pay careful attention to how the

posts and bones are oriented when assembling: the BOTTOM of post A is situated near the 1/4" hole

in one of the bones, and the TOP of post B is situated near the 1/4" hole in the other bone. Thread each of the bolts partially up through the bones and the bearings in the posts. Add two 5/16" hex nuts and spin them up the shaft with your fingers. STOP thread-

ing the bolts just as the end passes ' through the top washer on the post.

........... _--

42 Camera Sta.bili.zer Plans

STOP the bolts here

Set tube A and B in place as shown so the -- holes line up with the

bolts. Again, make

~ sure they are oriented - correctly by noting where the 1/4" holes are at. Place clamps lightly on the bones as shown to hold them in place while the bolts are completely threaded in. Secure the bolts with stop nuts.

(4) 5/16-18 stop nuts

Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2" hex bolts into the 1/4" holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt.

n-rl_ __ (4) 1/4-20 X 2" hex bolts

~ (4) 1/4" washers


ffe

Camera Stahilizer Plans 43

(8) 5/1.6" washers

(4) 5/16-18 x 4" full thread hex bolts

The assembly process for the second arm segment is identical to the first. Pay careful attention to how all the bones are oriented.

(4) 5/16-18 stop nuts


Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2" hex bolts into the 1/4" holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt.

(4) __ -1/4-20 X 2" hex bolts (4) 1/4" washers


Insert a 3/8" x 1 1/4" full-thread grade 8 hex bolt up through the angle piece. Get it nice and tight. I used a hand grinder to shave off the threads of the bolt after it was tightened into the angle piece so that it would fit snug into the bushing on the gimbal handle. Another option is to

use a 3/8" x 3 112" grade 8 bolt, use a 3/8-16 die and stock to cut threads down to 1/2" from the

- hex cap, then have a metal shop remove the last 2 3/4" of threads. This will improve stability.


Attaching the elbow is very tricky. A 5/16" washer needs to be placed atop each bearing and the entire assmbly fitted into the steel angles.

The bearings can be pushed up or down slightly with a wrench to adjust the fit, which should be snug. Insert a 5/16" x 4" bolt down through

the assembly. Slip on two 5/16" nuts as the bolt progresses. You should be able to use your fingers to spin them into the proper position above each bearing. Screwdri vers can also be used to wedge the nuts still as you wrench the bolt down. 5/16" stop nuts can be added to the ends. When complete, you'll have excess bolt hanging out which you can cut off if you want.

o

46 Camera Stabilizer Plam

Attach the shoulder joint assembly to the post D brackets

in the same manner as the elbow joint using a 5/16" x 4" full thread bolt, two 5/16 nuts, and two 5/16" washers if needed. Put a 5/16" stop nut on the end of the bolt.

Attach the four springs and the arm is complete.


Quantity Size
(1) 1/4" X 2 3/4" X 13"
(1) 3/8" X 4" X 1 7"
(1) 118" X 7" X 10"
(14) 10-24 X I"
(4) 1 0- 24 X 3/4"
(4) 10-24 X 112"
(35) 10-24
(22) 10-24
(1) 5/16-18 X 4"
(1) 5/16"
(2) 114" X 3/4"
(2) 1/4"
(2) "
1/4
(6)
(1) 150"
(1) 30" X 70"
(1) 10" X 25"
(1) 114" X 30" X 45" 48 Camera Stabilizer Plall5

Description

fiat aluminum flat aluminum flat aluminum machine screws machine screws machine screws washers

nuts

hex bolt (grade 8) wingnut

hex bolts

washers

knobs (female) buckles

strap material

1050 denier cordura

(or medium to heavyweight material) 1050 denier cordura

foam pad

2"

4"

4"

3"

o = 3/16" hole

1711

4"

2"

2"

•

•

•

•

wire hanger

Layout measurements for the waist plate on the 3/8" x 4" x 17" fiat aluminum. Drill all holes accordingly. The aluminum needs to

be bent in four places. To do so, make a guide with a wire clothes hanger by bending at the measured points. Fit the hanger to your hips and adjust the bends. Use the wire guide to tell how much the

aluminum needs to be bent.


21/2"

• = 114" hole

• = 3/16" hole

21/2"

1/2"!

711

13/4"

3 112"

3"

3 1/2"

Use the 118" x 7" x 10" piece of flat aluminum to make the chest plate. Drill holes, cut out the shape, then bend the extended sides slightly.


5/8"

3 II :

7"

3"

Use the 1/4" x 23/4" x 13" flat aluminum to build the vertical brace. All holes are 3/16". The bottom four can be traced from the waist plate for better alignment. Cut two vertica11/4" slots as shown using the 1/4" holes from the chest plate as a guide.

13"

U sing the steel angle left over from the ann materials, cut two 1 114" pieces. Drill three 3/16" holes all the way through.

1 9/16"

3/16" holes

3/16"

(2)

Be sure to grind all the edges with the side of the chop saw or a grinder - steel is very sharp.


10-24 x 1/2"

e c

10-24 x 1/2"

10-24x I"

10-24 x 1"

Set the angle pieces against the waist plate and trace the' holes. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16" bit.


Attach the last buckle to the left side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4" machine screws, four 10-24 washers,

- and two 10-24 nuts.

Line up the steel angle pieces with the holes in the waist plate. Insert six

1 0- 24 x l ' machine screws with six 10-24 washers.

If the screws do not

push easily through both components, run a 3/16" drill bit through the waist plate and steel angle holes with a power drill. Tighten everything together with six 10-24 nuts. Run a 5/16" drill bit down through the steel pieces.

Attach a buckle to the right side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4" machine screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts.


Insert a 5/16" x 4" bolt through the steel angle pieces and secure in place with a 5/16" wingnut. Here is how the vest should look thus far.

54 Camera Stabilizer PLans

Please note: the e mea urements are for an average sized person. Some adjustments may be necessary. Try using paper or cardboard first and see how it molds around

your torso.

5"

9"

35"

Cut out two pieces from the heavy-weight material in the shape above. With the good sides facing each other, sew the pieces together as shown.


Turn the sewn fabric inside-out and insert a piece of foam cut out in the same shape (but slightly smaller). Sew the bottom of the fabric closed.

The two vertical straps should be about 24" long and the horizontal strap should be about 42" long. Sewall three to the vest as shown.

8"


25"

10"

Fold the 10" x 25" fabric in half, good sides facing in,

and sew the edges together. Turn

the fabric insideout, insert a piece of foam cut in the same shape (slightly smaller), and sew the fabric closed.

Attach a 36" buckle strap as shown.


The completed vest


Setting up the S-rabilizer

Remove the camera base from the stabilizer stage to attach a camcorder. NEVER mount a camera to the stage with the camera base still attached - the camcorder could fall and become damaged.

Try to match weights between the stage and the base - if the camera weighs 4 pounds, put 3 to 4 pounds of weight on the base in the form of a monitor, battery, and/or dumbbell weights. Usually it is good to have more weight up top than on bottom.

Weigh the sled fully loaded and consult the chart on page 60 to find which springs to use on the arm. For instance, if a 3 pound camcorder is being used, put a 2.5 pound dumbbell weight on the base. If the sled weighs 6.5 pounds, total added weight equals 12 pounds. According

to the chart, the proper springs to use would be two .085 springs on the rear of the arm, a .085 on the front, and a .075 on the front.

If an 8 pound camera is being used with a 3 pound battery and a 1.S pound monitor, put a 2.5 pound dumbbell weight on the base so the base weighs close to the the stage. The sled weighs 6.5 pounds, the base will have 6.5 pounds, and the stage will have 8 pounds. Total

- weight equals 21.5 pounds. According to the chart, the proper springs to use would be four .093 springs.

Try to always have someone help when adorning the rig. The vest goes on first, then mount up the arm to the waist plate. Next, have the helper assist in holding up the fully-loaded sled while the gimbal handle is attached to the mount on the arm.


EXTENSION SPRING CHART

The extension springs used in these plans are made of MUSIC Vv1RE and have no finish.

-

FULLY-LOADED SLED WEIGHT

SPRING COMBINATIONS

up to 9 pounds

(1) .75"x 4.5"x .075 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5" x .085 in rear (2) .75"x 4.5"x .075 in front

9 - 12 pounds

(2) . 75" x 4.5" x .085 in rear (1) . 75" x 4.5" x .075 in front (1) .75"x 4 ... 5"x .085 in front

12 - 16 pounds

(4) .75"x 4.5"x .085

16 - 21 pounds

(1) .75"x 4.5" x .085 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5"x .093 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5"x .085 in front (1) .75"x 4.5"x .093 in front

21 - 26 pounds

(4) .75"x 4.5"x .093

26 - 37 pounds

(1) .75":& 4.5"x .093 in rear (1) .75"x 4.5"x .105 in rear (1) . 75" x 4.5" x .093 in front (1) .75"x 4 .. 5"x .105 in front

Extension springs can be ordered online. The first number represents the diameter of the spring. The second number is the length (including loop ends), and the third number is the thickness of the wire.

SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

spring (music wire)

rate

initial tension sug_max_def sug_max_load

.75"x 4.5"x .075 3.600 2.000 6,000 23.000
.75"x 4.5"x .085 6.900 3.000 4.400 34.000 II:
.75"x 4.5"x .093 11.000 4.000 3.500 42.000
.75"x 4.5"x .105 21.000 5.000 2.600 60.000
60 Camera Stabilizer Plans & distance between Camera c.g. and Monitor c.g @ distance between Camera c.g. and Battery c.g. © distance between Camera c.g. and Main Shaft [Q) distance between Monitor c.g. and Main Shaft [g distance between Battery c.g. and Main Shaft

1. Weigh the Camera, Battery, and Monitor (label the values as X,Y, and Z respectively) 2. Determine the position of their c.g. 's

(center of gravity)

3. Choose where you want to place the Monitor (this will give you values for A and D)

4. Choose how long you want the sled to be (this will give you the value for 8)

5. Determine where the battery should be using this equation:

E _ A(ZD) - Y

MUltiply Z times D, then multiply by A, then divide the esult by B times Y This will give you a rough idea of how far to place the battery's c.g. away from the main shaft.

6. Determine where the camera should be using this equation:

c = ZD-YE X

Multiply Z times D, then subtract Y times E. Divide the .esult by X. This will give you a rough idea of how far to blace the camera's c.g. away from the main shaft.

7. Balance side-to-side by moving the camera left or light until level.

8. Balance fore-to-aft by moving the battery forward or backward until level.

9. Fine tune the fore and aft balance by adjusting the camera forward or backward.

10. The sled should now have a good STATIC balance. Rotate the main shaft until

the camera is facing in the opposite direction. If everything is stillleve1, you

have an acceptable DYNAMIC balance. If not, move the battery in or out about 114". Static balance with the camera and try again. If things are way off, the gimbal needs adjusting.


Next rotate the sled 180 degrees and see if it still hangs level. If not, see page 65-66 for gimbal adjustments.

Mount the camera according to

the equation and rotate the sled to

a horizontal position. Slide the gimbal along the shaft until the sled stays balanced. This is the center of gravity. Now slide the gimbal up towards the camera about 1/2" and lock it down. The sled will slowly return to a hanging position. Count how long it takes for the sled to "drop". Adjust the slide up or down the shaft until you have acquired a 3-second drop time.


HOW TO BALANCE

Start with the sled mounted on a stand without a camera attached. The battery and monitor arrangement

I needs to be adjusted so that they

are balanced together. In this example, the monitor is mounted to an aluminum square tube that can be moved forward and backward. Adjust until the base hangs level according to the previous equation.

L

Adjustments can now be made with the gimbal to achieve a dynamic balance .. First, the forward-backward tilt needs to be analyzed. Start with the camera facing right and note the position. Then rotate the shaft until the camera is facing left and note the position.

In this example, the camera is leaning back equally in both positions, which means balance can be achieved

by moving the camera forward. Loosen the side socket screws on the camera platform and slide the entire camera plate forward until the sled is balanced.

Next, the side-to-side tilt needs to be analyzed. Start with the camera facing forward and note the position. Then rotate the shaft until the camera is facing rearward and note the position.

In this example, the camera is leaning to its right side equally in both positions, which means balance can be achieved by moving the camera to the left. Loosen the bottom socket screws on the camera platform and slide the entire camera plate to the left until the sled is balanced.

Camera Stabilizer Plaits 63

What if the camera does not lean equally in both positions? This means the gimbal is not adjusted properly. Begin by analyzing the forwardbackward tilt in two positions:

Next, analyze the side-to-side tilt in two positions;

In this example, the camera appears balanced in the

first position, but leans far left in the second position. To adjust, loosen the gimbal stopnut on the leaning side and tighten

the stopnut on the other side. Check the positions again and continue to trim accordingly until balance is achieved.


In this example, the camera appears balanced in the first position, but leans

far forward in the second position. To adjust, loosen the gimbal stopnut on the leaning side and tighten

the stopnut on the other side. This will slide the main bearing and allow

for balancing adjustments. Check the positions again and continue to trim accordingly until balance is achieved.

I

=:;

I

Checking Z-Axis Tilt

Many consumer stabilizer products have been known to have misaligned gimbals, which makes achieving a dynamic balance impossible. Fortunately, this design allows the user to make fine trim adjustments to the gimbal.

•

Face the side of the sled with the camera facing backwards and slowly spin the shaft until the camera faces forward. Note the levelness of the sled in both positions. If it is level in one position, but lobs forward in the other position, then the balance point is too far back on the collar.

Loosen the 10-24 screw

and the 5/16" bolt in the small angle bracket slightly to allow adjustments to the collar. The 5/16" bolt can be moved forward or backwards within the slot of the collar. In this instance, the bolt needs to be moved forward.


Checking X-axis Tilt

I ,

~

* reN' 'I'

The gimbal is designed to allow minor adjustments left or right to compensate for x-axis drift. Use two 1/2" wrenches to adjust the nuts on the bolts which will move the bearing collar. If the balance point is too far left, then the collar needs to move to the left. Spin the shaft again, trim the camera, and adjust more if needed.


Face the front of the sled and spin the shaft. If the top lobs to the right and then returns to vertical, the balance point is too far left.

Quantity Size
(1) 1"xl0"
(2) 118" X 2 112" X 4"
(2) 118" x l" X 5"
(6) 10-24 X 1 112"
(2) 10-24 X 3/4"
(2) 10-24 X 112"
(20) 10-24
(10) 10-24
(1) 114" xl"
(2) 114"
(1) 114"
(2) 1/4"
(2) 2 112" X 4"
(1) small tube Description

aluminum square tube flat aluminum

steel right-angle brackets machine screws

machine screws

machine screws

washers

nuts

hex bolt

washers

wing nut

nuts

cork/rubber gasket material

3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive

Camaa Stabilizer Plans 67

Set an angle bracket centered on each 1/8" x 2 112" x 4" piece of flat aluminum and trace the holes.

Try to find steel angle brackets that are pre-drilled. Lay them on the aluminum square tube and trace the holes with a pencil.

Centerpunch and drill six 3/16" holes all the way through the aluminum square tube.

o 3/16" hole

1/4" hole

I 3/16" hole

Centerpunch all marks. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center and two 3/16" holes on the outside.

Use weatherstrip adhesive to mount the cork material onto one of the flat aluminum pieces. When adhesive dries, drill the three holes through the cork.

68 Camera Stabilizer Plum

i i .

Attach the angle brackets to the aluminum square tube using six 10-24 x 1 112" screws, twelve 10-24 washers, and six 10-24 nuts.

Mount the bare flat aluminum piece to a bracket with two 10-24 x 1/2" screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts.

Mount the corked flat aluminum piece to a bracket with two 10-24 x 3/4" screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts.


Two holes should be carved out of the cork on the camera plate to accommodate the nuts on the.lowangle bracket.


Push a 1/4" x I.'' hex bolt through

a 1/4" washer and one of the holes on the camera plate. Feed the bolt through the center hole of the lowangle bracket, add a 1/4" washer, and tighten down with a 1/4" wingnut.

Mount the camera to the low-angle bracket using the same camera-mounting bolt and wingnut from page 29.

t 3/4" t _._5116" hole

14"

I

leave 1/8" gap

You will need a 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 72" steel square tube and a 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 42 3/4" steel square tube. Begin with the 72" piece and mark off two measurements

as shown. Drill a 5/16" hole at one end. Lay the piece flat and draw a 45-degree angle on both sides of each mark using a 45-45-90 triangle. Cut out the two triangular sections, leaving a 1/8" gap at the apex.

Camera Stabi~zer P/allS 71

34"

24"

Bend the tube into the shape shown with your hands.

not:e: welds are not: necessary if corner brackets are-used

_5/16-18 x 4" fun "thread grade 8 hex boh ..

X indicaus where a weld is needed

Take the 42 3/4" steel tube and cut it in half. Mark off measurements as shown and lay the pieces against the larger frame at the marks. Weld the two pieces to the frame and also weld at the bends. If welding is not desired, use corner brackets at each right angle. Drill 1/4" holes and mount with 114" x 2" bolts. Insert a 5116-18 x 4" full-thread grade 8 hex bolt through the hole and secure with two 5/16" washers and a 5/16-18 stop nut. Spray with a rust-protectant paint.


Thefollowing excerpt is reprinted from the SOC magazine:

The Operating Cameraman Fall/Winter 1995/96 - Vol. 5, No.2

By Dr. Carl C. Howard III and Dr. Carl C. Howard lr

1. Proper posture.

Proper posture in this case means keeping your legs under your weight at all times and avoid bending at the waist as much as possible. If it is required of you to put yourself in an awkward position with the Steadicam, have spotters standing close by to help you with any difficult movements.

2. Keep the camera as close to your body as possible.

The closer to your body you keep the camera the I ess stress you put on your back and the less chance you have of injuring your back. When those times arrive when you must hold the camera at ann's length, only do it for short periods oftime and use a support if possible.

3. Try to avoid standing and turning the camera to the back.

The combination of the twisting involved and the stress put on the 10w back greatly increase the possibility of a low back injury, particularly a discal injury.

4. Maintain a good exercise program.

A1though no exercise program will guarantee freedom from a back injury, a good exercise program can greatly decrease the possibility of a back injury.

How?

Here are four main recommendations to keeping a strong and healthy back.

1. Strengthen the muscles of the low back.

2. Strengthen the abdomina] muscles.

3. Strengthen the leg muscles including glutes, quadriceps, hamstrings, and calves.

4. Regularly stretch the hamstrings and low back.

Proper exercise and stretching even for people already in great shape will undoubtedly make operating a Steadicam much safer.

Stay safe

When filming with a Steadicam or any other type of camera for that matter always be aware of the safety measures involved. Taking a few moments to think of a safer way to accomplish a shot may save you immeasurable amounts of time, money, and pain. 80% of all people will experience low back pain at some point in their Jives. Don't push the odds higher by not following good safety procedures and good common sense.


There had to be plans on how to build one on

the internet. Or so I assumed. After weeks of searching, I found none. NONE! I couldn't give up, I had to have one. I began to research and develop ideas on how to build one with supplies found at my local hardware store. After a year of research, designing, building, and 5 prototypes later, I now have my own camera stabilizer - and

I love it! And I documented all my efforts along the way so that if someone else ever has the desire like I did, they can go on the internet and find what they're looking for.


In my pursuit of wanting to be a filmmaker, I began acquiring equipment, one piece at

a time as my finances would allow. I really wanted to have Garrett Brown's infamous invention, the Steadicam. The ability to achieve smooth shots while maintaining

the freedom to move anywhere the action

is instilled a desire in me that had to be fulfilled. After pricing the professional and consumer-grade models, I realized I could never afford one.

Here the sled is shown with a Transvideo

5.8" Rainbow LCD Monitor, switchable between 16:9 and

4:3 and available

in NTSC or PAL.

Tills color monitor is designed to be used without a hood in full sunlight. Powering up the monitor requires some dismantling

of an XLR4 cable. Connectors can be attached to wires

1 and 4 so that the monitor can hook up directly to any 12- volt battery source. The unit weighs 1.3 pounds, perfect for stabilizer use.

This particular model is being powered by a PowerSonic PS-1250 12 volt 5.0 amp hrs rechargeable sealed lead-acid battery.

The unit weighs 3 pounds and can sit on a shelf for two months without need of charging. Don't fully discharge this battery. Never let it fall below 9 volts. Charge with

a PSC-12500-A automatic charger

for safe and reliable charging. Also shown is a Varizoom VZ-ProL remote variablespeed zoom and focus controller.

IU 2#~ .

Camera StabiLizer Plalls 75

This is an earlier prototype of the vest represented in the PLANS. The chest plate has since been modified, but everything else is the same.

The low-angle bracket is a simple, yet excellent piece of equipment to have for getting smooth shots way down low.


Quantity Size Description

118" X 5" X 6" flat aluminum

3/8" x 4" x 15" flat aluminum

1/8" X 1 1/4" X 15 112" aluminum square tubes 1/8" xl" x 2" x 9" steel rectangle tube

lI4" x 3" x 5" steel angle

5/16-18 x 3" hex bolts (grade 8)

5116-18 x 3/4" hex bolt (grade 8)

5/16-18 x 1114" hex bolt (grade 8)

5/16" washers

5/16" stop nuts

1/4" X 2 1/2" hex bolts (grade 8)

114" X 3/4" allen socket bolts

(1) (1) (2) (1) (3) (2) (0 (1) (4) (3) (6) (4) (12) 114" (6) (4) (8) (4) (1) (1) (1) (2) (2)

1/4"

washers

stop nuts

machine screws washers

hex nuts medium-weight nylon foam pad

sturdy belt

straps

buckles

10-24 xl" 10-24 10-24

24" x 72"

1/4" x 24" x 36"

1 1/4" X 40"


21t

4"

4"

2"

5"

4"

-$- 3/16" hole

-$- 1/4" hole

I'i"'\

"tilf"t- 5/16" hole

y

15"

1/2"

• •
<F • •
e e 5"

78 Camera Stabilizer Plaf!5

The waist plate is almost identical to the front-mounted version.

Cut two slots in the flat aluminum piece and drill two 1/4" holes.

6"

1 1/4"

.... iP'"

Put some weatherstrip adhesi ve on the bottom of a 5/16" washer and set it in place over the lower hole on the steel bracket.

(x2)

Drill five 1/4" holes as shown in both aluminum square tubes.

15 112"

Cut three pieces from the steel angle. Drill the 5/16" holes, then align the pieces as shown and weld them together.

-@ 1/4" hole

19/16"

(2)


Drill two 5/16" holes, a 17/64" hole, and two #7 holes in the steel rectangle tube as shown. Thread the 17/64" hole with a 5116-18 tap. Thread the #7 holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Drill a 3/8" hole.

*The backrest to a cushioned office chair usually has a nice curved steel tube that can also be used instead of a straight steel tube.

17/64" hole

~ (5/16-18 tap)

1 5116"

Insert the Y-bracket into the steel tube. Put a 5/16-18 x 1-114" hex bolt through the center holes of both parts and secure

with a 5/16" stop

nut. Screw another 5/16-18 x 3/4" bolt down through the steel tube to adjust the tilt of the Ybracket.

80 Cam.era Stabilizer Pian5

Screw in four 1/4" socket screws and adjust them to vary the roll of the Y-bracket.

Cut out two bell shapes from the nylon material,

(x2) lay them on top of each other, and sew them together, leaving the bottom open. Turn the material inside out. Cut a piece of foam in the same

shape, slightly smaller, and insert it into the material. Sew up the bottom.

36"

Run the straps through the buckles, through the slots in the back plate, then back through the buckle as shown. Sew the ends of the straps back to themselves.

Sew two belt straps to each wing of the vest pad.


Mount the upper back plate to the two square tubes using 1/4-20 x 2 112" bolts, four 1/4" washers, and two 1/4" stop nuts. Next run four 1/4" bolts through the vest pad, the waist plate, and the aluminum square tubes. Use eight 1/4" washers and four 1/4" stop nuts to secure. To mount the arm connector assembly to the vest, put two 5/16-18 x 3" bolts through the vest pad, belt, waist plate, and steel tube with four 5/16" washers. Secure with two 5/16" stop nuts.


Attach the ends of the straps to the waist plate by running four 10-24 xl" screws through the vest pad, belt, waist plate, and straps. Use eight 10-24 washers and four 1 0- 24 nuts.


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