55039

I N.S

R U C

! O

N S

MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750

ZlG-ZAG

SEWING

MACHINE
P/N 55039

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38 Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10 Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _ 13 Applique .............................................. 26 Basting ................................................ Biind Stitching ...................................... Buttonholes .................................... 11 t9 20 - 25

Overcasting

...................

'.......................

27

Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37 Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10 Placement of Needle ............................... 5 Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... Reverse Stitching ................................... Replacement of Belt ............................... Setting Stitch Length ............................. Setting Stitch Width ............................... Sewing Light ......................................... Sewing on Buttons ................................. Sewing on Lace ..................................... Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... Synthetics ............................................ Threading Upper Machine ........................ Turning a Corner .................................... What to Do ..................................... Winding the Bobbin ................................ Writing and Monogramming ............. 6 11 31 11 16 4 19 26 30 27 16 26 30 9 15 34 - 35 7 , ....... 27

Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15 Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33 Connecting Machine ............................... 4 Darning ............................................... Decorative Stitching ............................... Double Needle ................................. Fastening a Seam .................................. Feed Dog Control ................................... 18 17 28 - 29 15 !5

Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 -3 Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8 inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16 Inserting and Removing Material ................ Installing Machine Head .......................... Needle and Thread Table ......... '. ............... Needle Size .......................................... 14 4 5 5

FRONT

VIEW

o o @ o
O

1. 2. 3, 4. 5, 6.

Hand Hole Cover Plate Feed Dog Presser Foot Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Guides Thread Tension Assembly

7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Thread Guide Face Cover Plate

12. 13. 14. 15. t6.

Stitch Stitch Light Fead

Width Length Switch Dog

Control Control

Knob Lever

Thread Take.up Arm Cover Plate Bobbin Winder Mechanism

Control Plate

Knob

Nomenclature

BACK

VIEW

17. _,. 39

Ho_d Clutch

Wheel Knob. R_verse Stitch _'3. 24. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b Upper Thread G_es 22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension

_5, 26. 27. 28,

Presser Foot L_v_r Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew Threod Cutte_ Needle Plato

_u_tonhole

{.ength Control 20. Upper Thread Spool_ Pros

INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD PORTABLE IN ANDCABINET

Loosen edge of cabinet the two hinge screws bed Sllp under holes in the rear the machine cutout _2_. 11_. Raise hinge pins in the machine head onto the pins securely front flap. _3 .

and tighten hinge screws Lower machine head to Screw spool pins the spool pins. accessory box.

in place. Lay the plastic discs over Discs and pins are packed in the

SEWINGIGHT L
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch. In order to operate the machine the switch must he on. To remove cover plate turn bulb bulb, turn by swinging clockwise, in new 4. light it and bulb switch open, remove and turn off, open the face push bulb in slightly, from socket. To counter clockwise.

replace, push See illustration

CONNECTING MACHINE
Push bed wall the plug onto three-prong plate. Plug machine cord outlet. See illustration 5. connector into any under 110-120V the

NEEDLE ANDTHREAD TABLE

THREAD
Cotton Synthetic Silk A 60-80 50 60-100

PLACEMENT OFNEEDLE
Raise sition
synthetics

SIZE

NEEDLE SiZE
Sheer cottons, laces weight weight weight weight weight

FABRIC

needle by you. Hold away as far clamp, clamp

bar turning

to its highest hand needle you. Sllp go into tighten needle

powheel clamp If|at the the the

-I

s_Jk L

and

11
i Fine

toward screw+ side needle needle needle

Loosen the from

with

Cotton Mercerized Synthetic Si_k A

Medium

cottons Silks synthetics woolens cottons weight fabrics as for coating men's work c|othes woolens

14

Medium Medium Light

as it will and screw.

Cotton

40.60 50 heavy duty 16

Heavy Medium Heavy Heaviest 18 heavy duty Heaviest

Mercerized Mercerized Cotton 30-50

:_o heavy drapery cottons woolen

Mercerized

NEEDLE SIZE
Use KENMORE conform to the to the material. bobbin as on sewing. Never 6021 needles. The size of the needle should size of the thread and both should be suitable The same size thread should be used in the the upper part of the machine for ordinary use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point.
This I I .+ _ + ) II I|/ ii ! is the exact length of the needle to with the for

be used in your machine. Comparison this illustration will determine whether needle your you mach_. have is the correct one

REMOVING BOBBINASE C FROM SHUTTLE

Needle at its highest position.

Pull out latch.

Pull

bobbin

case out.

straight

WINDING THE BOBBIN

0
Place post. thread Draw on spool /"-__ thread as _/_11_-_:,--_ _ ..... .....

0
Release turning toward machine. clutch clutch you. by knob Start

0
Wind bobbin thread a few around times.

0
When winding stops. bobbin is full,
,%,.

mechanism
,_-, ki.:: :

0
Place bobbin Push latch bobbin winder bobbin until onto shaft. winder

0
Tighten and clutch knob remove bobbin.

....................... _ii ii!i: _6_ _ .....

it clicks.

INSERTING BOBBIN INTOBOBBIN ASE CASE C ......... INTOSHUTTLE

Guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.

Pull

thread

through

slot.

Pull

thread

under

tension

spring.

Holding

[atch,

position

case

into

shuttle,

release

latch.

0
/

THREADING MACHINE UPPER

Place thread as illustrated between discs of the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the spool of thread from turning and by holding the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop up and pa_t the top hook until the thread can be slipped nto the hook. When thread tension is released, the spring wire loop will return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread in proper place. Release spool of thread and continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.

PICKING BOBBINHREAD UP T
Raise Hold hand presser foot lever. needle thread loosely wheel toward you one in left complete band and turn. upper foot. thread. rotate

_Di YI ............. _]i

Bring bobbin thread up by pulling See illustration. Place threads back under presser

YiL::)]

ii_,__

ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOTPush down outer ring of presser foot knob See illustration). This will release pressure foot. To increase pressure, push down until suitable pressure is obtained. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should of presser inner pin

be

about or it

half way down. When sewing multiple heavy material, reduce the pressure, when sewing sheer fabrics. Insufficient pressure may cause skipped

thickness increase

stitches

or

difficulty in guiding foot marks appear

the fabric, if feed dog or presser on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

I0

SETTINGTITCH S LENGTH
The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator is aligned with the stitch length number desired. The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on fabric you are sewing. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.

REVERSE STITCHING
Raise lever for is best to begin back tacking. reverse stitching. Lower lever for and end most seams with reverse forward stitching stitching. It often called

BASTING
For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4 for the longest possible stitch. Machine should be threaded in normal manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated. Basting is easily removed by pulling bottom thread. When basting very sheer fabrics, use a paper backing.
If you prefer Be pin sure away to to use keep from pins for basting, at right foot. your KENMORE angles Also to the reduce will seam pressure sew and over the

pins. of the foot.

the pins the presser

the head on presser

11

ADJUSTING TENSIONS
A perfect two layers stitch will have with threads no loops locked on top between or the of fabric bottom.

(Refer to page 38) Fig. 1

PROBLEM

REMEDY

0
Fig. 2

Upper

thread

too

tight

Decrease

Tension

Upper

thread

too

loose

Increase

Tension

Fig.

12

INCREASE TENSION Whenstitchingis

figures thread requires than the 2 and tension. adjustment upper thread unsatisfactory as in 3, adjust the Lower thread less tension. upper tension

frequently

When 1 and cause upper

stitch seam may and

is satisfactory, is badly be lower tight may tensions

as in figure puckered, and the both

Turn

Clockwise.

be adjusted.

J
When bobbin with adjusting case, make a screwdriver. the tension slight on the

DECREASE TENSION

adjustments

ISee page 38)

It

is

necessary tension

to

reduce

the when As the

upper doing stitch should

thread decorative width be is

somewhat stitching.

increased,

the

tension

Turn

Counter

decreased.

Clockwise,

13

INSERTING ANDREMOVING THEMATERIAL

For all kinds 5.

Before placing see that :

of sewing,
the

consult

chart

page

material

on the

machine

Place material under the presser foot, insert the needle into the material by turning the hand wheel toward you, lower presser foot and start sewing. To facilitate placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the presser foot lever can be raised beyond the normal "up" position.

* The presser foot are both tight. .The kind sizes of of work

and

needle

clamp thread

screws suit the To remove the work, first turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar.

needle and to be done. take-up been

, The needle and highest position. * The tensions have

lever properly

are

at their adjusted.

* The ends of the threads have about 4 inches to the rear of *The feed dog is up, width

been drawn the machine. IMPORTANT: Always turn the hand wheel toward you! When machine is not being used, place a piece of material over the feed dog and lower the presser foot. Always have fabric under the presser foot when operating the machine. Operating threaded machine without fabric will cause it to jam by forcing thread into the shuttle. See pages 32 and 33,

, Stitch desired

length and settings.

controls

are

set

at

Experiment

by

sewing

on

the

fabric

to

be and

used to determine tension correct stitch settings.

adjustments

14

CHANGING THEPRESSER FOOT

The various attachment feet to be fastened to the presser available bar. for certain kinds of work are

To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure.

kl
N

TURNING CORNER A
Stop Turn sewing fabric. machine Lower with presser needle in fabric. foot and continue Raise presser stitching. foot.

FASTENING A SEAM
iI j

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about inch from beginning of seam. Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching. Stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and complete seam. When you reach the end, raise the stitch length control lever and sew back over inch of completed seam.

FEED CONTROL DOG

The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine bedplate. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog drops and does not: pull material. This allows the operator freedom of movement of material, as for darning. For regular sewing, turn knob to the right, "U" _Feed dog up).

15

ZIGZAGCONTROL
SETTINGTITCH S WIDTH
lnsert between disc _1. 0 and 4 of with Turn the stitch on the knob, stitching pattern the beyond width Zigzag knob stitch only the with stitch to the width control width desired increases on setting from 0 setting,, must ! to 4, Straight or by removal When not be sewing advanced is possible dis_:. double 2_, needte setting,

control

INSERTING PATTERN DISC

i. 2. 3. Turn Pull handwheel pattern disc so that the shaft cover needle open, is in its highest position, Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft. Make sure the retaining pin ,_g enters hole in disc, To start a pattern at the beginning, align the engraved dot on the disc with the cam follower _. To do this. slip the disc onto the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek. wise) the cam follower as possible, If the engraved dot is not aligned until the with dot the cam is aligned, of fabric disc. lollower, i_|f under tollow the turn the machine presser 1 and hand wheel is threaded, foot_. 2, grasp disc toward you be sure to and pull

place a scrap To remove pattern from shaft.

the steps

SEWING ITHREVERSE W PATTERN DISC

Your machine numbers 21, stitch control is 22, provided 23 and 24. should in the type of control patterns to be with four reverse When using these be set upright fabric slightly at 4. The position pattern pattern reverse for most discs, discs, discs the length control _; should be upon Turn to obtain piece o[ the the the fabric stitch length materials, may need the left as Practice on

Depending adjusting. required an extra

used, this control to the right or to on page 17.

illustrated used.

16

>

>>
!

i
10
21 22 23 by the means disc. the to of various discs Basic decorative red mark be sewn. on the Pattern needle. set at 4, Sewing width and will length at of material can be length in the stitching. material from made control

I
1 2 6 7 8 9
24

t
J

DECORATIVE STITCHING
This machine supplied with stitches indicator may See enables your you machine, to sew beautiful The movements decorative of the and needle at embroidery stitches are controlled by 4 and stitch upon the type also stitch directed decorative the are made with plate. Stitch by When using using the satin stitch length will vary any the other disc fo0St, stitch width slightly depending or width, 2]. 22, 23 it

be changed page 25.

lengt h numbers

All patterns and 24, the is used as [or prevent the fabric.

with double should be for the stitch

Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27. It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension is increased, prevent the the tension should bobbin thread from be decreased, coming up on

instructions As

somewhat

This will the top of

puckering

17

DARNING
WITHPRESSER FOOT:
1. 2. Turn feed dog control to left. presser darning, two will foot knob, monogram spring have see page 10. With presser work, etc. may be done. hoops and When place you foot knob Press down outer ring of in this position, mending, Stretch Lower fabric presser tightly bar

3. 4.

between so thread

embroidery some tension.

under start to

needle. darn,

move fabric back and forth to cover sewing at right angles to the previous can make any length stitches desired. darning 5. stitches. Fast movement will

darning area. Then turn fabric and continue stitching. Use medium machine speed. You Slow movement of fabric will make short make long stitches. pressure Turn feed

When you for general dog control

finish darning, raise sewing by pressing to right.

presser foot and remove fabric. Increase down inner pin of the presser foot knob,

WITHOUT PRESSER FOOT:

1. 2. Turn Remove Proceed feed dog control to left. presser foot. as directed under

steps

3 and

4 above. and remove Turn feed fabric, Replace dog control to

3.

When you finish darning, presser foot, and increase right.

raise the pressure

presser foot lever for general sewing.

18

SEWING NBUTTONSu.. d,.o O

Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold securely. Drop feed dog. Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just above button. Adjust stitch width so that needle will align with a hole of button. Turn hand wheel again by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times, turning hand wheel manually. Finish sewing with an extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side and tie securely. li using a 4 hole button repeat the above procedure.

NOTE: To make a small thread shank when sewing on a flat button, place a straight pin or needle between the holes of the button.

BLIND STITCHING
Disc _ 2 Stilch Stitch width 2 _May length 3 vQry depending on type of materiol]

1. 2. 3.

Prepare the [inlsh, or

hem

with

a turned raw

and edge

edgestitched with either

Apply seam tape straight or zigzag

along the stltching.

Turn hem and baste about _ inch from the edge of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing machine. Fold along garment garment back along basting fold using disc _ 2. llne and basting stitch step

4. 5.

Remove basting and press hem. may be eliminated in a straight

The hem.

19

Use

disc

_: I

and

special

buttonhole

_oot

BUTTONHOLES

(Models 68, 95, 1600, 1650, t651, 1652)

Stitch tength at red mark Buttonho[e control knob F Feed dog cantrol U

Place the fabric, with the buttonhole length marked at both ends, under the buttonhole foot. Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole. Set the foot so the beginning of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite end of the buttonhole. Lower the foot.
Stitch forward until the needle reaches the red zone on the front edge of foot, Then turn the knob to R, and stitch the other side of the buttonhole. Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole. The speed with which the knob is turned determines the number of stitches at the ends of the buttonhole. The slower the knob is turned, while sewing, the more stitches are formed. See page 21. Reproduction of identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole foot. These graduations are 1/8 inch apart. Just mark the starting points of the buttonholes, let the needle pierce the fabric and set the index mark CA_ on the upper portion of the foot at the same graduation mark CB_ as it was set for the first buttonholeo Lower the foot, Follow the procedures outlined above. Always make a practice garment, using a double in garment. buttonhole thickness on a scrap of fabric used of fabric, and an interfacing in the if used

The stitch length may be varied slightly by the stitch length control lever within the 0 to 1 range. To increase forward stitch move this lever from the red mark toward 1, to decrease move it toward the 0. The buttonhole reverse stitch length control _C_) is used to match the length of the reverse stitches with the forward stitches. Turn the dial to the minus direction for shorter stitches; to the plus direction for longer stitches. These settings may vary depending on the type of fabric used,

2O

Position

Step

Position

Step

v
_ _: A"_

rr/

:a.

<<

<< <<

<

<< <<

21

BUTTONHOLES
(Models 96, 17501

Use disc _ 1 Stitch width knob- about 1_

Feed dog control-Lef_ Covet plate for butlonholes

I!
/,__:/i Covet" l_Jo I a

0
i,4!_ "

Remove and plate. insert

regular

cover

plate cover

Select snap

desired into guide

template plate,

and

Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole. Screw guide pin on guide plate on machine Drop guide with template into guide bed. pin hole

buttonhole

plate into place fitting over the

22

pinion

gear,

HINTS PERFECT FOR BUTTONHOLES

O
ii!_ _ _: ! ;: : i ,_ ;:

Mark

the

position

o[

each

buttonhole with chalk

on the garment or a line of basting.

Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric. Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy light weight or lawn between and sheer fabrics, Use buttonhole cutter open.

scissors to

or cut

buttonhole Pick up bobbin thread through threads material Drop sewing. formed. An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate wilt provide of your smooth operation buttonhole maker. buttonhole

guide plate and draw toward back. Place on the guide and will plate. start be presser foot Buttonhole

Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment. A wider desirable fabrics. stitch on width heavy may be

The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch Length knob so it may be set on any position.

weight

23

BUTTONHOLES
(Model t654)

Use disc # 1 Stitch width knob- about 1

Feed dog control- Left Cover plate for buttonhotes

_[uidepinhol!

0
_ pinL0_ _ear

Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole cover plate,

Screw guide pin on guide plate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Select desired size of buttonhole by turning disc as shown above. Length of buttonhole appears in window on top s{de of guide plate.

Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole, Screw guide pin on guide ptate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Drop guide plate into place with template fitting over the pinion gear.

24

HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES

Mark the position of each buttonhole on the garment with chalk or a line of basting. Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric, Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy or lawn between light weight and sheer fabrics.
Use buttonhole buttonhole cutter hole open. scissors or cut button-

to

Pick up bobbin thread thraugh guide plate and draw threads toward back. Place material on the guide plate, Drop presser foot and start sewing, Buttonhole will be formed. The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch tength knob so it may be set on any position,

An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate will provide smooth operation of your buttonhole maker,

Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment, A wider desirable fabrics. stitch on width heavy may be weight

25

APPLIQUEu_o ,1 ,,,_:
Baste cutout 4, Set stitch applique to fabric, length at the red around Set mark stitch width 2 to on the indicator completely cover-

plate. Zigzag stitch ing the raw edge,

applique

SEWINGNLACE uso O ,_o_1

Set stitch width to 2. Set stitch length to 2 or 3. Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace inch from edge of fabric, Position fabric and lace so that stitching right stitch catches left edge of lace, so that edge of lace is overcast. Continue

STRAIGHT ORTHREE-CORNERED TEAR

U_e disc _ 6 Stitch width 4 Stitch [ength at red mor_

Position

tear

under

needle

and

stitch

along

the

straia

ght tear catching sides of material. When three cornered tear, stitch from each end

mending to center.

26

OVERCASTING d_s u. ;_
Set stitch width to 4. Set stitch length Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric cover the edge. to about 3. to completely
f.

WRITINGNDMONOGRAMMINGd.: _1 A U_e
Free hand Stitch width 0 to 4 Feed dog control Left Draw initials or words fabric into embroidery either zigzag or straight foot. Set stitch width as desired. Slip hoop lower presser bar and thread through fabric. along marked outline, hands, to be sewn on fabric and fit hoops. Writing is done with stitching. Remove presser for straight or zigzag stitches and fabric under the needle. take one stitch to raise bobbin Using a medium speed, stitch guiding fabric carefully by

i iill _

ii!!!iiiiiiiilZiiiiiiiii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

SEWING NSTRETCH O FABRICSu_o _,o_2,

Stitch width 0 Stitch lenglh 4 Use with knitted fabrics and stretch fabrics. Sew as you do straight stitching. Machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth. The seam can be pressed open without breaking thread.

27

DOUBLE NEEDLE

1. SETTING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE

Raise clamp the needle bar to its highest screw. Hold double needle Slip the needle tighten the screw. as position assembly far as it and with will loosen needle flat side away go into needle

from you. clamp, and

2. THREADING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE

Place a spool of thread on each spool pin. Draw both threads each set Continue through upper thread guides. of tension dis_:s of the thread Pass a thread between tension assembly.

threading as you would for single double thread guides are provided.

needle sewing except where Draw one thread through through each needle of thread through. as for single needle

each side of the double thread guides and from front to back. Pull several inches Thread bobbin and pick up bobbin thread sewing.

3. THREAD SELECTION
When using double needle do not set stitch width higher than 2 setting. Use size ing. only mercerized sewing thread is recommended thread size 50 or finer. The same for both upper and lower thread-

28

4. STITCHING
All decorative starting the patterns any handwheel are possible operation, manually. with Needle and needle advanced double needle should plate. beyond needle. drop enter The 23 Before stitching check

by turning fabric stitch setting.

without width

touching presser foot control must not be

5. TURNING CORNER A
To the turn, presser in the turn fabric. lower foot new a stop square stitching Raise presser again, direction. corner with the foot complete when the longer foot, take the turn, and stitching needle shift one and with tip just fabric begin stitch. a double piercing half Raise the the t needle,

presser

stitching

29

SYNTHETICS
Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber, such as nylon, *Orion, _ _Dacron, rayon, acetate, blends o| these, and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers. When stitching a fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers, handle it as you would a material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage. For example, a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one made entirely of Orlon. When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber, remember:
a. _elect patterns of the loose fitting type with sleeves, because most synthetic fiber fabrics wltil steam pressing, and are not absorbent, Use Use a s_'nthetic a fine needle thread. as recommended in chart on page 5. cap cannot or he kimono eased

b. c, d.

Wind the bobbin in ween tension discs. bobbin.

the usual way, but do Guide thread by hand

not pass thread betfor a smoothly wound

e,

Choose

the

stitch

length

that

gives

the

most

satis|actory thickness tension thread

seam. of the must he tensions

f_

Check thread ten,ions by sewing on a double fabric to be used. Usually the upper thread loosened. Sometimes both bobbin and upper must be loosened _pages 12, 13L

SEWING NPLASTICILMS O F
Set the Use a together corners
_Trademark polyester

machine with normal thread tensions fine needle and mercerized thread. with cellophane tape or pape_ clips slightly rounded rather than square,
tot fiber, Dupont's Acrylic fiber.

and a large size stitch. Hold plastic pieces rather than pins. Sew

_Trademafk

for

Dupont's

3O

REPLACEMENT OFTHEBELT
Push motor against machine and remove belt from motor pulley. Let motor down gently. Pull belt out over hand wheel. Install new belt reversing the above procedure.

CLEANING ANDOILING
Keep the moving parts free from dust and thread Cleaning When for quiet and efficient operation. should be done with a small brush. machine a at runs hard or makes excessive sewing in figs.

i
!

noise, place machine oil A, B, & C.

drop of KENMORE the points indicated

Swing points

hinged face cover plate open to indicated at end o{ machine head.

oil

Fig.

3_

t!_ at top of machine head. To _,_: take disc out from machine, :_ and lifft cover.

remove remove

cover too

plate, screws F;o. B

It

may

be

necessary

to

clean

the

shuttle

area

occasionally. 3. Clean small brush. the shuttle particles of race thread of any with lint or a small pin race

1. 2.

Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove bobbin ca_,e. Push levers sideways from the shuttle assembly and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out by the center pin. 32

4.

Put a drop of of the shuttle _see arrows),

oil on the center and on shuttle

To reass_mble, hold shuttle by center pin and fit carefully into assembly opposite the shuttle driver. Slip shuttle race cover into place. Snap the levers into position. Occasionally, remove the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush.
Shuttle Race Cover

Shuttle

Shutlle

Race

33

WHAT TO DO
'1II

i=

II PROBABLE CAUSE

ii

PROBLEM

CORRECTION

Incorrect Improper 'i Loose

size

needle.

choose Rethread tension. Tighten Do not

correct machine upper pull

size

needle 9_.

For

thread

and

fabric

(page

5_.

threading. upper fabric. thread

_page

thread fabric;

tension guide

_page

12_.

irregular Stitches

Pulling Light Loose

it gently. Foot (page 10)_

pressure presser

an fao_,

presser

foot.

increase Reset Rewind

pressure foot

on presser _page 7_.

presser bobbin

15_.

Unevenly

wound

bobbin.

_page

Breaking Needle

Pulling fabric, Incorrect size Incorrect

Do not pull fabric; needle. of needle. Choose correct

guide

it gently. for thread and fabric _page 5).

size needte 5].

setting

Reset needle _page

:I
Bunching of

Loose presser foot.

Upper drown Feed end back dog lower under down, threads presser not foot.

Beset presser foot _page

15_.

Draw Raise

both feed thread

threads dog

back

under 15_, _pages

presser

foot

Cpage

10_.

Thread

_page

Incorrect

thread

tension_s_.

Reset Increase Upper Insert Reset Use

tension_s_ on

12,

13_. 10_. be same size and klnd.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Puc_:ering

pressure t_reod new and needle foot

presser

Foot

_page should

Using two different kinds of thread. Bent or blunt needle, Loose presser foot. Fabric too

sizes or
bobbin _.page _poge thread 5_. 15_. or tarlatan when stitching.

presser underlay

sheer or too soft.

oF tissue

paper

34

WHAT TO DO
,. i ii i i n i i i i I II I II [ I I IIIII III ill II IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Illill I I

PROBLEM

PROBABLE

CAUSG

CORRECTION

IncOrreCt Ben_, or Skipping Stitches Tight Light Incorrect

size b{unt setting

neecl_e. need{e. of need|e, tension, foot,

Choose Insert Reset Loosen Increase

correct new need|e upper

size

needle _'page 5_. tension presser 57,

for

thread

and

|abric

_page

5_.

needle _poge thread

upper pressure

thread

_poge foot

12_, _'page 10_.

on presser

pressure

on

Starting _mproper Breaking Upper Thread Tight

to

stitch

too

|ast,

Start

to

stitch

at

medium 91 ,

speed.

threading, thread needle. needle. tension.

Rethread Loosen Choose Insert

machlne upper correct new

ipage

upper

thread size

tension needle _page 5_.

:_poge for

12_. and Fabric _poge 5_.

Incorrect Sharp eye

size in

thread

needle

Improper

bobbin

case

threading tension.

Check Loosen Clean

bobbin bobbin babbln

case thread

threading tension shuttle

_poge _page (pages

8_. 13_. 32, 33t.

Breaking

Bobbin
Tight Lint in bobbin bobbin thread case or shutt|e. c<_se csr_

Thread

Feed Fabric Moving not Light

dog

down. on presser under _oot,

Raise increase

feed

dog pressure

;page on

151. presser back foot _page presser _0_. foot before beginning

pressure knotted

Threads

fabric.

Place both to stitch,

threads

under

Machine Jamming _Knocking Noise_

Thread

caught

in

shutt{e.

Disc_ssemble

and

cleon

shuttle

_pages 32,

33).

35

PARTS

LIST

All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store, catalog sates office or mail order house.

@ @

@ @

36

When ordering these parts,please besureto mentionhefollowing t references : 1. Model serialnumbers machine & of shown onthenomenctature plate. Seepage 2. 2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.
When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be bilged accordingly.

Ref. No= 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Par s No. 17980 26929 F502 6510 6797 30!5 3076 26841 26842 26843 26844 26845 26846 26847 26848 26849 26850 2t_6t 26862 26863 26864

Description Shuttle Needle hook clamp

Ref. No. 10

PartsNo. 6741 6742 6743 6744

_tion No. 11 Single needles No, 14 Single needtes No, 16 Singte needles No. 18 Single needles Bobbin winder rubber Nylon disc disc Thread spool pin Bobbin winder tension Straight stitch foot Zigzag presser foot Satin stitch foot Presser foot thumb Motor rubber belt Needle threader Buttonhole 1-1!16" 1-1/16" foot template template Keyhole Regular ,_crew in yellow case

Ref. No.

PartsNo. 9022 9023 9020 9181 9_62 32736 1/2" Regular 3/8" 5/8" Regular Keyhole template template template cover plate guide plate guide plate

in red case in green case in blue case ring 23 24 25

Bobbin Bobbin case Light bulb Large screw driver Small screw driver Pattern disc No_ 1 Pattern disc No. 2 Pattern disc No. 3 Pattern disc No, 4 Pattern disc No. 5 Pattern disc No, 6 Pattern disc No. 7 Pattern disc No. 8 Pattern disc No, 9 Pattern disc No, 10 Pattern disc No. 21 Pattern disc No. 22 Pattern disc No. 23 Pattern disc No, 24 Double needle in ivory case 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 2I 22

Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole

1939 2273 8286 1222 740 9363 6870 135 6902 6864 6854 8939 8940 8941 8942 _293 9021

!3t16" Regular template 5/8" Regular template 6! 16" Reguatr ayelel 15/16" temptate Regular template template end

6745

37

ADJUSTING
When 1. 2. 3, 4. your sewing

YOUR
machine does

SEWING
not sew

MACHINE
a properly the

FOR
locked

GOOD
check you

STITCHES
the are following: using.

stitch, and fabric

Insert a new needle of the correct Consult chart on page 5 for'needle

size for size.

thread

The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type. Check threading carefully, See page 9. Check the thread tension balance. Use mercerized thread, and for the fabric you are using. Do not try this test with synthetic break. Begin with a full about 12 stitches a triangle. Make a. b. c. Grasp a. b, c. d. if if If If bobbin, properly threaded per inch. Fold a 6 _ square a line of stitching _'_ from into the case. of your fabric fold.

a correct size needle thread as it will not length at forming

Set the stitch in half diagonally,

If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight. If the bottom thread lays on the fahrictighten upper thread test. See page 12, Figure 3. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread test. See page I2. Figure 2. the stitching and pull with a snap to make threads loose. break.

tension, tension,

and and

repeat repeat

both threads break-tensions neither thread breaks-both upper thread breaks-loosen lower thread breaks-tighten

are balanced. tensions are too upper tension. upper tension.

oth threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same _ap. obbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. Start with a loose bobbin thread msion. Tighten the spring screw gradually until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread.

38

39

_[

]1_._[

40

SEWING

MACHINE

SEARS, ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS

AND CO., Chicago, IL I U.S.A. and LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Printed in Japan Part No. 55039 9/91