10

Technology and
Livelihood Education
Home Economics (Dressmaking)
Quarter 4 – Module 1:
Assemble Garment Parts for
Ladies’ Trousers

Department of Education. Republic of the Philippines

 Lesson Assemble Garment
Parts for Ladies’
1 Trousers

What I Need to Know

This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help
you master in assembling garment parts for ladies trousers. The scope of this
module permits it to be used in many different learning situations. The language
used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of students. The lessons are
arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course. But the order in which
you read them can be changed to correspond with the textbook you are now
using.

 Lesson 1 Assemble Garment Parts for Ladies Trousers

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. Prepare the cut out parts for ladies trousers; and
2. Assemble the ladies trousers following the step by step procedure in
assembling the ladies trousers
 What I Know

Directions: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the chosen letter on
a separate sheet of paper.

1. Which one is in correct order of basting for darts and seams in preparing
for the first fitting?
A. darts, outseams, inseams
B. outseams, inseams, darts
C. Iinseams, outseams, darts
D. inseams, darts, outseams

2. Where do we pin the fitting band to the garment?

A. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the lower
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
B. Pin the fitting band to the outside of the garment with the lower
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
C. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the upper
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
D. Pin the fitting band to the outside of the garment with the upper
edge of the band on the stay stitch.

3. How do you remove the shine that marks on the pants?

A. Use a piece of thin cloth over the top of your trouser before
pressing.
B. Use a piece of thin cloth under the top of your trouser before
pressing.
C. Use a piece of damp cloth over the top of your trouser before
pressing .
D. Use a piece of damp cloth under the top of your trouser before
pressing.

4. Which is not part of the pressing tool and equipment?

A. iron
B. bristle brush with flat unvarnished wooden handle
C. ironing board
D. newspaper

5. How is crotch attached?

A. Put one leg outside the other, right sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.
 B. Put one leg outside the other, wrong sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.
C. Put one leg inside the other, right sides of fabric facing and baste
the crotch seam.
D. Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.

6. Which statement is not correct about pressing techniques for ladies

trouser?
A. Select an iron temperature and settings consistent with pant
fabric.
B. Test on a small hidden area such as pocket bag before pressing
the entire pant.
C. Some fabrics mar require the use of a press cloth to prevent
shine when pressing on the right side.
D. Only steam iron is to be used to pressed the pants.

7. Which one should be adjusted before fitting the outseams?

A. crotch B. darts C. inseam D.side seam

8. What makes some of the pocket in seam open?

A. because there is no fasteners used.
B. because that is the new design of the pocket.
C. because there is no sufficient allowance at the waist and the
upper hem line.
D. because it is in the wrong position.

9. When do we permanently stitch the garment?

A. after the basting.
B. after the first fitting.
C. after the pinning.
D. after the joining the front and back units.

10. Where do we insert the zipper for ladies trousers?

A. in the placket
B. in the waistband
C. in the side seam
D. in the hipline seam

11. What type of seam is appropriate and strong for front crotch seam?
A. flat-fell seam
B. french seam
C. plain seam
D. trimmed seam

12. Where do we attached the pocket ?

A. on the waistline seam
B. on the outseam
C. right side seam
 D. left side seam

13. What is applied to the waistband upon construction?

A. plain seam application
B. flat fell seam application
C. top stitch application and the longer underlap.
D. apply with bar tacks

14. What stitch is usually used to finished the women’s and girl’s slacks
A. cuffs
B. plain seam
C. running stitch
D. top stitch

15. What is the final step in assembling ladies trousers?

A. constructing the waistband
B. hemming the trouser
C. applying fastener
D. pressing the garment

What’s In

In the previous module, pattern making and the cutting of materials for
ladies trousers have been taught. Procedures were followed accurately and
correctly so that the next step of the task will also be continued correctly.
Variation of styles for ladies trouser were also introduced because it is the
current fashion demand. As an aspirant dressmaker, it is a great challenge to
continue the learning with patience and presence of mind for the next step of
the task.

What’s New

In this lesson, following the steps in their proper order is a must if you
want your output to be of great quality. The pre-fitting and the fitting of garment
are the pre-assembling procedure in assembling the ladies trousers. There are
standards procedures on how to assemble the parts systematically, but
nowadays, dressmakers or sewers have their own standard and own technique
in assembling and sewing the garment parts according to their own
convenience.
 What is it

Pre-Assembling Procedure for Ladies Trousers

Preparing for the first fitting

1. Baste darts, outseams, and inseams, in that order.

2. Put one leg inside the other, right sides of fabric facing, to baste the
crotch seam. Do not baste through the seam allowances at the crossing
of the inseam and crotch seams.
3. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the lower edge of
the band on the stay stitching. Match the markings on the band to the
garment at the center front, center back, and outseams. Place pins on
the garment side.

Fitting
1. Check the grainlines, ease, balance, and the position of all seams when
fitting the garment. Remember, drag lines point to the source of the
trouble.
2. Start at the seven- inch grainline first and fit the front, then the back. The
crosswise grainline at the seven-inch hipline must be kept parallel to the
floor. The creases in each leg must be per- pendicular to the floor. Pants
have four centers, whereas skirts only have two.
3. Adjust the darts before fitting the outseams. The darts may be shifted to
the area where they are needed.
4. Mini-darts, about two inches long, may be used between the large darts
and the side seams.
5. A slight garment bias in the center back seam is acceptable. Sometimes
it is impossible to match plaids at the inseams. Just remember these are
the least noticeable seams in the garment. Pants may be tapered in the
fabric. Indicate the amount tapered on the pattern.

Pressing Techniques for Ladies Trousers

Pressing

Tip: If you worry about shine what you can do is use a piece of thin cloth over
the top of your trousers before pressing. Be sure to use a cloth that does not
leave bits of fluff.

What you will need.

1. An ironing board
2. An iron
3. A bristle brush with a backing/handle that is flat, wooden and unvarnished.

Select an iron temperature and settings consistent with the pant fabric.
Steam works for most fibers, test on a small hidden area such as the pocket
bag or waistband inside before pressing the entire pant. Some fabrics may
require the use of a press cloth to prevent shine when pressing on the right
side. Press on a long flat surface, preferably a padded ironing board.

Procedure in Assembling Ladies Trousers

Assembling the Trousers

1. The crotch seam and all leg seams are made before the pocket and
placket are constructed.
2. The outside leg seams, pocket and placket are constructed before the
inside leg and the crotch seams are made. The first method is common
and will be the one that is employed in our slacks.

Front of Trousers
1. Stay stitch waistline and side edges, inside leg seam edges, and front
crotch seam edges.
2. Machine baste darts and tucks; do not machine stitch until after first
fitting.

Front Crotch Seam

1. Determine type of seam to be used. A flat-fell seam is strong and
appropriate. A plain seam is satisfactory if a finish is used that helps
strengthen it, such as binding its edges, or turning under and edge
stitching the seam allowances.
2. Stitch permanently after first fitting.

Back of Trousers
1. Stay stitch back sections of slacks and machine baste darts in front.

Back Crotch Seam

1. Use same type of seam in center front. If flat-fell seam is used, be sure
it is made in same direction as front.
2. Baste seam, but do not stitch or complete seam until after fittng.
3.
Pinning for Fitting
1. Pin inner and outer leg seams, wrong sides together.
2. Try on slacks, and pin tape snugly at waistline for fitting.
3. Adjust seams and darts as necessary, allowing hip, thigh, and crotch to
fit with enough ease for freedom of movement, enough so that slacks do
not droop awkwardly.
4. Fit in sitting and bending positions.
5. Fit waistline in same manner as for skirt. Mark correct hem line.
 6. Remove garment and adjust pinning to prepare for stitching. If plain
seams are to be used, remove pins from seams, slipping them into a
single thickness of garment to show any alteration in seam line.
7. Turn garment in the right sides together and pin-baste new seam line for
stitching.
8. If flat-fell seam are to be used, leave seams in the wrong sides together,
and pin-baste for stitching.

Joining Front and Back Units

1. Stitch and press any darts or tucks and crotch seams. Stitch and press
inner leg seams with crotch seams and two inner leg seams exactly.
2. Clip seams on curves and trim seam allowances where seams cross.
3. Leg seams may be reinforced with narrow cotton twill tape extending 2”
to either side of crotch seam. Finish seams in same manner as crotch
seams.
4. Stitch and press outer leg seams from hem to crotch, leaving the right
side open above the pocket marking, and the left seam open for the
placket.

Pocket in Side Seam

The pocket is placed in the right side seam. The pocket in a seam will
not open if there is sufficient ease allowance in the fitting of the slacks at the
waist and the upper hem line.

1. Baste front pocket section to front of garment side seam, and back
pocket section to back of garment side seam on seam lines, right sides
together; stitch.

2. Pocket in side seam: In step 1, the front pocket section has been basted
to the front of the garment side seam, and the back pocket section to the
back of the garment side seam. Step 4 shows that the pocket sections
have been stitched together and the pocket top has been pinned to the
waistline of the front of the garment so that it will be caught permanently
in the waistline seam.
3. Press back seam allowance toward the back of the garment. Press front
seam allowances toward front of the garment.
4. 3. Turn pocket front inside, rolling seam just to under side; machine top
stitch on front edge of garment ¼ “ from fold to form firm pocket edge.
If top stitching is not desired, press seam allowances toward pocket and
understitch before pocket is turned inside.
5. Pin-baste and stitch pocket sections together, beginning at point where
sections are joined to side seams, and continue around bottom and sides
to waistline edge of pocket.
6. Pin pocket top to waistline of garment front so it will be caught
permanently in waistline seam.
Bar Tack on Side-Seam Pocket
In sports clothes, the side seam pocket should be strengthened at the
upper and lower ends of opening by working a bar tack across them.
1. Take several stitches ¼” long across seam at lower end of pocket
opening, using buttonhole twist or embroidery thread to match garment.
2. Cover ¼£ stitches with tiny overhand stitches close together, catching a
few threads of the fabric at the same time. Work across ends with tiny
overhand stitches.
3. Repeat at top of pocket after waistband has been applied to garment.

Bar Tack (1)- Several stitches of thread are being sewed across the end of
the opening.
Bar Tack (2)- These stitches are now being covered with overhand stitches
close together, picking up a few threads of the fabric at the
same time.
Bar Tack (3)- The ends have been finished with small bar tacks.

Placket
Insert zipper as directed for side zipper.

Waistband

Construct and apply waistband, using either top-stitched application

given for the gathered skirt or the directions of the skirt which feature the
invisible stitching and the longer underlap, as well as interfacing.
The latter waistband may be top stitched along all edges for a more
tailored appearance if desired.

Hem for Trousers

Women‟s and girls‟ slacks are usually finished with a plain hem rather
than cuffs. Finish cut edge by edge stitching or apply seam tape; turn up hem
at desired length, press fold, pin-baste, and slip stitch to garment. Be sure the
edge is even before edge stitching or applying seam tape.

Fasteners
Attach hook-and-eye fasteners to waistband as directed for skirt.

Pressing
Give trousers a final pressing, matching inside and outside leg seams to
locate position for front and back creases.
 What’s More

Directions: In the previous module, you were able to cut the fabric for ladies
trouser. This time, using it, prepare the cut out fabric for the
first fitting of your ladies trouser and Palazzo pants. You will
be rated based on the rubrics below.
Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students
Dimension PERFORMANCELEVEL
Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No Poin
(4 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) Improvement Attempt ts
(3 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.) Earn
e
1. Use of Uses tools and Uses tools and Uses tools and Uses tools No
tools and equipment equipment equipment and attempt
equipment correctly and correctly and correctly and but equipment
confidently at confidently less confidently incorrectly and
all times most of the sometimes less
times confidently
most of the
time
2. Manifests very Manifests clear Manifests Manifests less No
Application clear understanding understanding of understanding attempt
of understanding of the step- by- the step-by-step of the step-
procedures of the step- step procedure procedure by-step
by-step but sometimes procedure
procedure seeks seeking
clarification clarification
most of the
time
Works Works Works Works No
independently independently independently independently attempt
with ease and with ease and with ease and but with
confidence at confidence confidence assistance
all times most of the sometimes from others
time most of the
time
3. Safety Observes Observes Observes safety Most of the No
work habits safety safety precautions time not attempt
precautions at precautions sometimes observing
all times most of the safety
time precautions
4.Complete Task is Task is Task is nearly Task is started No
ness of completed completed completed but not attempt
Task following the following the following the completed
procedures in procedures in procedures in following the
the activity the project the project plan procedures in
improvement/i plan the project
nnovations plan
5. Time Work Work Work completed Work No
manageme completed completed ___(mins./hours/ completed attempt
nt ahead of time within allotted days) beyond ___(mins./hou
time rs/days)
beyond
TOTAL POINTS
 What I Have Learned

Directions: Fill in the blanks. Supply the missing word/s to complete the
sentence. Write your answer on a separate answer sheet.

1. Match the __________ on the band to the garment at the center front , center
back and outseams.
2. Mini- darts, about __________ long, may be used between the large darts
and the side seams.
3. Baste __________, __________, and _________ in that order.
4. Some fabrics may require the use of a __________ to prevent shine when
pressing on the right side.
5. Test on a small hidden area such as the _________ r waistband inside before
pressing the entire part.

What I Can Do

Direction: In the previous module, you were able to fit the fabric for ladies
trouser. This time, using it assemble the materials for your
ladies trouser and for your Palazzo Pants. You will be rated
based on the rubrics below.
Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students
Dimension PERFORMANCELEVEL
Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No Poin
(4 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) Improvement Attempt ts
(3 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.) Earn
e
1. Use of Uses tools and Uses tools and Uses tools and Uses tools No
tools and equipment equipment equipment and attempt
equipment correctly and correctly and correctly and but equipment
confidently at confidently less confidently incorrectly and
all times most of the sometimes less
times confidently
most of the
time
2. Manifests very Manifests clear Manifests Manifests less No
Application clear understanding understanding of understanding attempt
of understanding of the step- by- the step-by-step of the step-
procedures of the step- step procedure procedure by-step
by-step but sometimes procedure
procedure seeks seeking
clarification clarification
most of the
time
 Works Works Works Works No
independently independently independently independently attempt
with ease and with ease and with ease and but with
confidence at confidence confidence assistance
all times most of the sometimes from others
time most of the
time
3. Safety Observes Observes Observes safety Most of the No
work habits safety safety precautions time not attempt
precautions at precautions sometimes observing
all times most of the safety
time precautions
4.Complete Task is Task is Task is nearly Task is started No
ness of completed completed completed but not attempt
Task following the following the following the completed
procedures in procedures in procedures in following the
the activity the project the project plan procedures in
improvement/i plan the project
nnovations plan
5. Time Work Work Work completed Work No
manageme completed completed ___(mins./hours/ completed attempt
nt ahead of time within allotted days) beyond ___(mins./hou
time rs/days)
beyond
TOTAL POINTS

Assessment

Directions: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the chosen letter on
a separate sheet of paper.

1. Where do we pin the fitting band to the garment?

A. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the lower
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
B. Pin the fitting band to the outside of the garment with the lower
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
C. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the upper
edge of the band on the stay stitch.
D. Pin the fitting band to the outside of the garment with the upper
edge of the band on the stay stitch.

2. Which is not parts of the pressing tool and equipment?

A. iron
B. bristle brush with flat unvarnished wooden handle
C. ironing board
D. newspaper

3. Which statement is not correct about pressing techniques for ladies

trouser?
A. Select an iron temperature and settings consistent with pant
fabric.
 B. Test on a small hidden area such as pocket bag before pressing
the entire pant.
C. Some fabrics mar require the use of a press cloth to prevent
shine when pressing on the right side.
D. Only steam iron is to be used to pressed the pants.

4. What makes some of the pocket in seam open?

A. because there is no fasteners used.
B. because that is the new design of the pocket.
C. because there is no sufficient allowance at the waist and the
upper hem line.
D. because it is in the wrong position.

5. Where is the zipper inserted?

A. placket
B. waistband
C. side seam
D. hipline seam

6. Where is the pocket attached?

A. on the waistline seam
B. on the outseam
C. right side seam
D. left side seam

7. Women’s and girl’s slacks are usually finished what?

A. cuffs
B. plain seam
C. running stitch
D. top stitch

8. Which one is in correct order of basting for darts and seams in

preparing for the first fitting?
A. darts, outseams, inseams
B. outseams, inseams, darts
C. inseams, outseams, darts
D. inseams, darts, outseams

9. How do you remove the shine that marks on the pants?

A. Use a piece of thin cloth over the top of your trouser before
pressing.
B. Use a piece of thin cloth under the top of your trouser before
pressing.
C. Use a piece of damp cloth over the top of your trouser before
pressing .
D. Use a piece of damp cloth under the top of your trouser before
pressing.

10. How is crotched attached?

 A. Put one leg outside the other, right sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.
B. Put one leg outside the other, wrong sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.
C. Put one leg inside the other, right sides of fabric facing and baste
the crotch seam.
D. Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides of fabric facing and
baste the crotch seam.

11. Which one should be adjusted before fitting the outseams?

A. crotch B. darts C. inseam D. side seam

12. When do we permanently stitch the garment?

A. after the basting.
B. after the first fitting.
C. after the pinning.
D. after the joining the front and back units.

13. What type of seam is appropriate and strong for front crotch seam?
A. flat-fell seam
B. french Seam
C. plain Seam
D. trimmed Seam

14. What is applied to the waistband upon construction?

A. plain seam application
B. flat fell seam application
C. top stitch application and the longer underlap.
D. apply with bar tacks

15. What is the final step in assembling ladies trousers?

A. constructing the waistband
B. hemming the trouser
C. applying fastener
D. pressing the garment
 Assessment
1. A
2. D
3. D
4. C
5. A
6. C
7. A
8. A
9. A
10. C
11. B
12. B
13. A
14. C
15. D
What’s What I know
What I can Do What I Have
Learned More
1. A
1. Markings 2. A
Use rubrics to Use rubrics 3. A
evaluate the 2. 2 inches 4. D
to evaluate
student’s 3. Darts, the 5. C
performance . Outseams, student’s 6. D
Inseams performanc 7. B
e. 8. C
4. Press cloth 9. B
5. Pocket bag 10. A
11. A
12. C
13. C
14. A
15. D
LESSON 1
Answer Key