Roadmap Textiles

ENABLING DEVELOPING COUNTRIES TO SEIZE ECO-LABEL OPPORTUNITIES

PROJECT

MARKET INFORMATION
AND

SUGGESTED ROADMAP FOR THE SUCCESSFUL PLACING ON THE EUROPEAN MARKET OF ECO-LABELLED TEXTILES FROM INDIA
DRAFT DR. PUJA SAWHNEY SUPPORTED BY KERSTIN FRITZSCHE

June 2008

Acknowledgments This paper was written by Dr. Puja Sawhney with contributions from Kerstin Fritzsche from Adelphi Research. Disclaimer This document is not for distribution and is not an official UNEP or EC document. It has been prepared as a background for discussion at the national Workshop on Eco-labelling held in Jaipur, India on 23-24 June 2008, and for related follow-up capacity building and technical assistance activities in the framework of the Enabling developing Countries to seize eco-label opportunities project. Please do not quote any text from this paper.

Enabling Developing Countries to seize eco-label opportunities Market Information and Roadmap Package

Content

Tables .............................................................................................................................................. 5 Figures ............................................................................................................................................. 5 Abbreviations ................................................................................................................................... 6

1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 7

2. Part I: Market Information ............................................................................................................. 9 2.1.Market information data ................................................................................................................ 9 2.1.1. European Market data ................................................................................................................9 2.1.2. European textile import...............................................................................................................9 2.1.3. European Market for home textiles and yarn............................................................................15 2.1.4. The EU-Flower: What is it about?.............................................................................................15 2.1.5. Information on EU Flower-labelled textiles ...............................................................................19 2.1.6. Perception of the EU Flower.....................................................................................................19 2.1.7. Other relevant European textile standards and labels .............................................................22 2.1.8. Advantages of the EU Flower label ..........................................................................................24 2.2. Case studies ....................................................................................................................................25 2.2.1. Case study 1: Rama Textile Industry, Thailand........................................................................25 2.2.2. Case Study 2: Bibette Clothing Manufacturers, South Africa...................................................26 2.3. Suggestions on suitable markets .....................................................................................................27

3 Part II: Practical Roadmap ........................................................................................................... 28 3.1. Eco-labelling your products tips for the application procedure .....................................................28

3.1.1. The EU eco-label application procedure ..................................................................................28 3.1.2. The EU Eco-label criteria..........................................................................................................30 3.1.3. The EU-Eco-label Competent Bodies.......................................................................................32 3.1.4 The EU Eco-label Assessment and Verification Requirements ................................................33 3.2. Successful placing of eco-labelled products on the EU market.......................................................39 3.3. Networking with European businesses ............................................................................................42 3.3.1. Business organisations.............................................................................................................42 3.3.2. Fairs of suitable markets...........................................................................................................44 3.3.3. Marketing activities ...................................................................................................................46 3.4. Conclusion........................................................................................................................................47 Appendix 1: Current Criteria for Textiles .......................................................................................48 Appendix 2- Criteria for Textiles Proposed Draft of the New Criteria ......................................61 References

............................................................................................................................. 75

Tables

Table 1: EU-25 External Trade Table 2: The top 10 textile imports in the UK, 2005-2006 Table 3: EU countries with demand for home textiles and yarn Table 4: Textile Criteria Table 5: Criteria for textile products Table 6: EU Competent Bodies for textile products Table 7: The EU Flower for textiles: assessment and verification requirements for the criteria Table 8: Laboratories in selected countries Table 9: Laboratories in India Table 10: Examples of textile retailers in Europe Table 11: Textile Retailers in Germany

11 14 27 30 31 32 34 37 38 40 41

Figures
Fig 1: End of quota restrictions under the Multi-Lateral Fibre Agreement Fig.2: Share 5-sectors in total extra-EU 25 imports (% value in ) Fig.3: EU 25 textiles imports (in million Euro) Fig.4: EU-25 Apparel imports (in million Euro) Fig.5: Companies with the eco-label by country Fig.6: Evolution of the total number of licences from 1992 to 2008 Fig 7: Number of awarded companies in Europe per category Fig.8: Ex-factory sales value (in million Euro) Fig.9: Results of 2006 EU Flower awareness survey Fig.10: Response to question on the meaning of the EU label Fig.11: Meaning of the EU Flower label Fig.12: Overview on the application process 10 10 12 12 17 17 18 18 20 20 24 29

Abbreviations
B2B: C&A: EU: GOTS: ISO: RTI: NGO: THTI: USA: UK: Business to Business Clemens & August European Union Global Organic Textile Standard International Organization for Standardization Rama Textile Industry Non governmental Organisation Thailand Textile Institute United States of America United Kingdom

1. Introduction

The Sustainable Consumption and Production Branch of the United Nations Environment Programmes Division of Technology, Industry and Economics together with InWEnt Capacity Building International and other partners has started a 4-year project co-funded by the European Commission and the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (Germany) aiming at promoting eco-labelling in emerging economies. The project involves several countries (Brazil, China, India, Kenya, Mexico and South Africa) that have selected different export product groups (textiles, footwear, appliances and paper) for which the project will help to seize eco-labelling opportunities. The Indian partner has chosen to work on textiles. In Article 2 of the Commission Decision of 15 May 2002 establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community eco-label to textile products and amending Decision 1999/178/EC, textiles are defined in the following way:1 The product group textile products shall comprise: Textile clothing and accessories: clothing and accessories (such as handkerchiefs, scarves, bags, shopping bags, rucksacks, belts etc.) consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres; Interior textiles: textile products for interior use consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres. Wall and floor coverings are excluded; Fibres, yarn and fabric: intended for use in textile clothing and accessories or interior textiles. For textile clothing and accessories and for interior textiles: down, feathers, membranes and coatings need not be taken into account in the calculation of the percentage of textile fibres. The background document prepared for the project identified the EU eco-label as a suitable label for textiles exported from India to Europe. The discussion held at the project Start-Up Workshop held in Bonn December, 3-4 2007 showed that target country partners require more specific information on ecolabelling market opportunities and detailed eco-labelling procedures. Thus, the present document, besides giving some practical information on the procedures to get textiles awarded with the EU Ecolabel, provides market information and suggestions on how to successfully place eco-labelled textiles on the European market. In the first part, this paper presents market information and general data on the sales and distribution of sales of textiles in the European market and includes some information on the diffusion of eco-labelled products in the European markets. The experiences from the developing country perspective regarding eco-labelling and its outcomes are covered in two case studies taking a closer look at companies from Thailand and South Africa that got their products awarded with the EU eco-label. These case studies deliver insights into the eco-labelling application process and identify drivers as well as barriers in the market phase. The first part will also deal with the identification of suitable national markets within the EU for products labelled with the EU Flower. Based on this information, the second part of this paper outlines a practical roadmap for companies and producers. It provides information and recommendations on how to apply for the EU Flower, whom to get

Source: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2002:133:0029:0041:EN:PDF. Website visited June 15th 2008.

in touch with and which strategies to use in order to place eco-labelled product successfully on the EU market. The market trend and data analysis points to the higher possibility of increased exports in cotton textiles. However, the interest of the Indian industry at present lies in the increased export of yarn and home textiles. This is because home textiles in India is growing at a very fast pace. There are huge investments happening in this segment. A number of existing companies are diversifying into home textiles and new ventures are also coming up. While the export market in home textiles is booming for India, the domestic market is also picking up very fast. There is a growing demand for processed fabrics, a large part of which is being met through imports, which are not necessarily low priced. Such fabrics are required in the country, and what is encouraging is that investments in processing, printing and dyeing facilities are beginning to happen. Demand for quality coated fabrics is going up, as also for a number of other performance fabrics. There is an increased demand for exclusive and authentic Home Textiles with high quality finishing and (eco) friendly production. The report has tried to identify markets for the preferred sub products for export to the EU, however lack of sufficient information and data has rendered it difficult to extensively identify future trends in the export potential of home textiles and yarn. The appendices provide the list of the current EU Eco-label criteria and the proposed draft of the future ones.

2. Part I: Market Information 2.1. Market information data

2.1.1. European Market data The textiles and clothing sector in Europe is diverse and heterogeneous and covers a wide variety of products from high-tech synthetic yarns to wool fabrics, cotton bed linen to industrial filters, nappies to high fashion. It is an important part of European manufacturing industry with a turnover of over 200 billion in 2002. This was produced in roughly 177,000 enterprises which employ more than two million people - a figure which increased to 2.7 million after EU enlargement in May 2004. In the EU-15, textiles and clothing account for around four percent of total manufacturing value added and seven percent of manufacturing employment. In the EU-15, the textiles and clothing sector industry is concentrated in the five most populated countries, i.e. Italy, the UK, France and Germany and Spain. These account for about three quarters of EU-15 production of textiles and clothing. Over the recent past, more and more companies in the EU are sub-contracting and relocating their production facilities to developing countries due to cheaper cost of production, and high standard of sophistication and quality. Data free of charge concerning textile production between 2002 and 2006 for the EU are unavailable.

2.1.2. European textile import The Multilateral Fibre Agreement (MFA) was the legal framework under which certain developed countries imposed restrictions, such as quotas, on the volume or value of textile and clothing imports into the country. It was initially put into place for four years on January 1 1974 . However, it continued till 1994 when the Uruguay Round of Multilateral Trade Negotiations resulted in the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC). The ATC sought to phase out all quota restrictions on textiles in four phases spread over a period of ten years between January 1995 and January 1 2005 . January 1 2005 marked the end of the quota restrictions for all developing countries barring China which faced quota restrictions till January 2008 .
4 st 3 st st 2

Source: www.intracen.org/mts/faqs/regpref.htm. Website visited on June 15th 2008. Source: Madhukar, 2004, What is the Multilateral Fibre Agreeement http://www.domainb.com/industry/textiles/20041229_multi_fibre_agreement.html. Website visited on June 15th 2008. 4 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/trade/issues/sectoral/industry/textile/trade_text_en.htm#topWebsite visited on June 14th 2008.
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Fig 1: End of quota restrictions under the Multi-Lateral Fibre Agreement

As a result of lifting of quota restrictions the developing countries have outstripped Europe and the US in textile exports. Europe and the US tend to import more textiles creating a trade deficit for them a trend which continues to increase even today. Import penetration has increased considerably, from 12 percent in 1990 to 23 percent in 1999 for textiles, and from 30 percent in 1990 to 46 percent in 1999 for clothing
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From 1995 to 2005 the EU-25 textile imports increased from 16 billion Euro to 30 billion Euro accounting for 2.2 percent of the total import value.

Fig.2: Share 5-sectors in total extra-EU 25 imports (% value in )

Apparel 4,1%

Footwear Furniture 1% 0,9% Leather Textiles 0,6% 2,2%

Other Apparel Textiles Footw ear Furniture Leather

Other 91%

Source: Madhukar, 2004 European Commission,1996 7 Source: OETH reports on the EU Textile and Clothing Sector for 1997 and 2000 (OETH = LObservatoire Europen du Textile et de lHabillement, European Observatory of Textiles and clothing) 8 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/documents/ifm_final_report_2007_vol1.pdf. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 9 Based on data from: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/documents/ifm_final_report_2007_vol1.pdf. Website visited on March 11th 2008.
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Overall the European imports of textile and clothing has increased by 11.3 percent between 2002 and 2005, offset by a decline in the EU exports. The value of total imports increased by 1.4 percent between 2001 and 2004 for textiles and 15 percent for clothing.

Table 1: EU-25 External Trade

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Increased imports into the EU especially from countries such as China and India are a result of the end of the quota regime under the Multi Lateral- Fibre Agreement in 2005. China constitutes the largest exporter of textiles excluding apparels to Europe followed by Turkey, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Imports from India have shown fluctuations between 1995 and 2005. The imports from India declined from 2089 million in 2000 to 1945 million in 2004. However the trend shows an increase again since then.

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Source: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/statistics.htm. Website visited on March 11th .2008.

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Fig.3: EU 25 textiles imports (in million Euro)

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In terms of apparel, India is the 4 largest exporter to Europe with export worth 2469 million Euro in 2005.

th

Fig.4: EU-25 Apparel imports (in million Euro)

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Total export from India to the EU in 2005 accounted for 28.32 percent of the total imports into the EU. The main European countries of imports from India include UK (United Kingdom), Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Netherlands, Denmark, Belgium, Sweden and Finland.
13

For textile yarn, fabrics and related

products India exports in 2006 amounted to 2,176 million Euro to the EU, which makes up a share of 11.4 percent. It is therefore the third largest partner after China with 4,868 million Euro (25.6 percent) and
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Source: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/documents/ifm_final_report_2007_vol1.pdf. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 12 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/documents/ifm_final_report_2007_vol1.pdf. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 13 CUTS, 2007

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Turkey 3,582 million Euro (18.8 percent). The main partners in Europe are Germany with US$ 461 million, the UK with US$ 426 and Italy with US$ 426 million (figures of 2005).
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The followings section outlines key trend data on the German, UK, Italian, Spanish and French textile markets: Germany
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The textile and clothing sector in Germany constitutes as one of the largest industry groups in the country. In 2006, Germany imported 29 billion in textiles and clothing. Based on total revenue for the same year of 22 billion Euros and 122,000 employed in the sector, the textile branch represents one of the most important consumer products industries in Germany.

Due to major structural changes since the 1960s, Germany today covers its local demand for textiles mostly by importing from other countries. In 2006, the domestic production of textiles concentrated on clothing (30 percent), home textiles (30 percent), and technical textiles (40 percent).As a result, Germany still accounts as one of the largest textile and clothing exporters worldwide with an export quota of 41.7 percent. At the same time, the country is also the second largest importer of textiles behind the United States and has become since the 1980s an attractive export market for many textile exporting countries worldwide.

UK In the second half of the 20th century much of the manufacturing side of the UK fashion and clothing industry moved overseas. Many factors have contributed to this move, including the low cost of manufacturing in developing countries. Large-scale manufacturers have almost vanished from the UK: the core business now is the sourcing and supply of goods. Today, imports account for 95 percent of the fashion and textiles market. Although this far outstrips exports, many of these imported goods bear UK labels. The import of textiles mounted to 4.452 million pounds in 2006 .
16

CUTS, 2007 Source: www.german-business-portal.info/.../german-textileindustry,property=pdf,bereich=gbp,sprache=en,rwb=true.pdf. Website visited June 9th 2008. 16 Source: http://www.5portlandplace.org.uk/businessadvice/businessadvices.php?mid=9&mdid=39&scid=93. Website visited June 9th 2008.
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Table 2: The top 10 textile imports in the UK, 2005-2006

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Textiles

2005 (m) 685 198 157 139 142 141 131 129 119 85

2006 (m) 719 200 187 150 146 133 128 122 103 86

Carpets Curtains and blinds Bed Linen Cotton terry Synthetic filament yarn Cotton Fabrics Spun synthetic fabric Synthetic staple fibres Synthetic filament fabric Technical fabrics
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5% 1% 19% 8% 3% -6% -2% -5% -13% 1%

Italy

While Italy remains a world leader in producing textiles such as luxury apparel and accessories, much of its textile industry has moved to Asia, Eastern Europe and northern Africa for cheaper labour and lower costs. Spain
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There is constant growth in the textile sector in Spain, particularly in imports. In 2001, imports increased by 20 percent in the clothing sector. In 2002 the Spanish textile/dressmaking sector imports went up 4.5 percent to USD 7.3 billion. Imports in 2002 of off-the-rack garments and knitwear (USD 5.1 billion) were responsible for much of this rise with a growth of 11 percent over the previous year.

The main suppliers of these products to the Spanish market include China, Italy, Portugal, Morocco, France, Germany, Turkey, India, Vietnam, The Netherlands, and U.K. The industry is expected to grow in the next few years due to increased purchasing power, which will benefit the apparel industry especially as Spain has been the fastest growing major economy in Europe over the last 3 years.

France20
In 2006, the French textile industry (including apparel) had 947 companies (with at least 20 persons) employing 86 070 people. A total of USD 18.2 billions of sales volume was generated by the French textile companies (including apparel). In 2006, total French textile imports (including

Source: http://www.5portlandplace.org.uk/businessadvice/businessadvices.php?mid=9&mdid=39&scid=93. Website visited June 9th 2008. 18 Source: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=980CE6D8173CF937A15751C0A9629C8B 6397. Website visited June 9th 2008. 19 Source: http://strategis.ic.gc.ca/epic/site/imr-ri.nsf/en/gr115021e.html. Website visited June 9th 2008. 20 Source: http://www.buyusa.gov/france/en/202.html (09/06/08)

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apparel) were valued at USD 15.7 billions, while total French textile exports (including apparel) for the same period amounted to USD 10.5 billions. Household textiles represent about eight percent of the textile industry. In 2006, the major textile suppliers included China (15 percent), Italy (13 percent), Germany (seven percent) and Belgium (six percent), followed by Turkey (nine percent), India/Spain (four percent) and Tunisia/Portugal/ Bangladesh (three percent).

2.1.3. European Market for home textiles and yarn An increase in the market for home textiles and apparel in the EU, USA and Japan is predicted due to the phasing out of production capacities in spinning and weaving in these countries. There is now a preference for import of value added products such as apparel and home textiles. According to expert studies, buyers in these countries are and will in the future continue to outsource finished products from countries such as India as they want to consolidate their sourcing and reduce the number of supply points as a cost cutting exercise. As a result of the consolidation of global retailing, importing countries are likely to opt for supplies from countries that have vertically integrated operations . Since this already exists in India, the Indian textile industry is foreseen to have an edge in terms of meeting the growing demand from Europe.
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2.1.4. The EU-Flower: What is it about? The European Union (EU) Eco-label, also called the Flower was introduced in 1992 with the aim of 23 providing more transparency and information to consumers about environmentally preferable products. The European Flower is part of a broader strategy of the European Union to stimulate sustainable consumption and production. It awards products and services that are environmentally preferable in respect to the products of the same category existing on the market, taking into account their main environmental impacts over their full life cycle, from the extraction of the raw materials to their eventual disposal or reuse/recycle. It is a Type I eco-label, meaning that is it certified by an independent third-part, multi-criteria based and voluntary. The main aims of the eco-label are . To achieve significant environmental improvements. It foresees this by developing, publishing and promoting criteria that will push the market forward, in order to minimise the environmental impacts of a wide range of products and services over their whole life-cycle; to ensure the credibility of the award by efficient administration and through criteria which are environmentally strong, are based on good science, including the precautionary principle, take account of consumer health; require good product performance, are developed transparently and cost-effectively, with the participation of stakeholders, are reasonably attainable, and are up to date;
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Patodia, 2006. Source: http://www.bsdglobal.com/markets/eco_label_eu_flower.asp. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 23 For further information please check the EU ecolabel-helpdesk website: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel 24 Source : http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/whats_eco/mission_statement_en.htm. Website visited on June 14th 2008

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to encourage manufacturers, retailers and service providers to apply for the award, to publicise their own participation in the scheme, and to promote the availability of eco-labelled products and information about them;

to encourage purchasers to buy products and services with the award; to improve consumer awareness and behaviour regarding the environmentally optimal use of products and services.

The European eco-label can be awarded to non-food and non-medical products in 28 different categories as of May2008. Their ecological criteria are revised on a three years basis and new product groups can be added if reasonable. The environmental benefits of the promotion of eco-labelled products are very significant. A study 25 conducted by AEAT in 2004 on the Direct and Indirect benefits of the EU Eco-label , showed that with only a modest five percent market share for EU eco-labelled products in the European Union, the savings comparing to typically performing versions (standard products) would be substantial, including: 14,700,000 kWh of energy saved; 9,318,000 tonnes of CO2 saved from energy use 12,285,000 million of litres of water saved a reduced use of hazardous substances equal to 13,800 tonnes 530,700 tonnes of materials (other than hazardous substances saved) reduced discharges of water corresponding to 30,400 tonnes of COD reduced air pollution corresponding to 17,500 tonnes of pollutants

There have been 398 licensed companies with approximately 2000 EU-Flower-labelled products in 28 product categories as of May 2008 . Ever since their number has risen considerably: By the end of February 2008, there were a total of 557 companies from 30 countries, having eco-labelled products and services . Most of the licences can be found in Italy, France and Denmark, followed by Germany, Spain and Austria (see Figure 5) . The other licences are spread over a number of European as well as nonEuropean countries, among which there are few developing countries, namely Thailand, China, Indonesia, and Egypt. Bearing in mind that large part of the European textile imports come from developing countries and emerging markets, the potential for the EU Flower label as a scheme to promote environmentally friendly goods and services from these countries is immense.
28 27 26

Source: http://www.meteo.lv/upload_file/stats%20ecolabel_LV.ppt. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 26 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/product/index_en.htm. website visited on June 14th, 2008. 27 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/marketing/stats/stats.pdf. Website visited on March 31st 2008. 28 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/marketing/stats/stats.pdf. Website visited on March 31st 2008.

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Fig. 5: Companies with the eco-label by country

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Fig.6: Evolution of the total number of licences from 1992 to 2008

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29 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/marketing/stats/stats.pdf. Website visited on March 31st 2008. 30 upto 31 March,2008. Source: EU Ecolabel Helpdesk

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Currently, six product groups are responsible for 89 percent of all awarded companies: Tourist accommodation service (29 percent), textile products (13 percent), indoor paint and varnishes (eleven percent), all purpose and sanitary cleaners (eleven percent), campsite service (seven percent), and hand dishwashing detergents (six percent).
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Fig 7: Number of awarded companies in Europe per category

1% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 1% 1% 1% 2% 2% 2% 3% 29% 4% 4% 6%

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Soaps and shampoos Lightbulbs Televisions Growing Media Bed mattresses Hard floor coverings Lubricants, Hydraulic Fluids Copying and graphic paper Footwear Dishwashing detergents Soil Improvers, Growing Media Laundry detergents 7% Tissue paper Hand dishwashing detergents Camp Sites Service 11% All purpose & Sanitary cleaners Indoor paints & varnishes Textile products Tourist Accommodation Service

13%

11%

The sale of EU Flower certified products have shown an almost steady increase since 1998. Between 2002 and 2003 the ex-factory sales increased by 300 percent. Total sales of EU Flower labelled products 33 was over 800 million Euro in 2005 and is still increasing. Fig.8: Ex-factory sales value (in million Euro)
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Rubik & Frankl 2005. Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/marketing/stats/stats.pdf. Website visited on March 31st 2008. 33 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/marketing/statistics_en.htm. Website visited on March 31st 2008. 34 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/marketing/statistics_en.htm. Website visited on March 31st 2008.
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2.1.5. Information on EU Flower-labelled textiles Textile products make up for approximately 13 percent of all European companies awarded with the EU Flower. The number of European textile producers awarded with the Flower has risen from 49 in March 2004 to 74 currently. Most eco-labelled textile companies are from Denmark (30), Italy (14) and Sweden (nine), followed by Germany (four) France and Spain (three each) and a couple of other countries with one or two eco-labelled textiles products. Besides these, there are several non-European companies that have been certified with the EU Flower label in Egypt (Nile Linen group), Thailand (Greenvilles Trading co ltd., Thong Thai Textile Co.Ltd, Rama Textile Industry and Asia Fiber Public co ltd) and New Zealand (Bloch & Behrens wool (NZ) Ltd). Together with the European companies, they produce about 156 EU Flower-labeled textile products including advanced protective wear fabrics; bed linen; table linen; terry towels; napkins; diapers; casual apparel fabrics; baby, children and adult clothing; coloured knitted 100 percent cotton and 100 percent organic cotton; coloured fabrics; dyed yarn; and scoured Wool . There is a lack of publicly available data regarding current total sales and production of eco-labelled products (latest figures are for 2005), total sales and production of eco-labelled textiles in Europe, current share of eco-labelled textiles in the total sales and production of eco-labelled products, data on import and export of eco-labelled products especially textiles to the EU 27 and individual European countries, data one export and import of yarn and home textiles from India to European countries (figures usually account for EU 25 or EU 27 without giving numbers on export and import of each country in details).
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2.1.6. Perception of the EU Flower Consumer attitude A 2006 study that interviewed over 24000 people in the 25 member states of the European Union still found that nearly half (48 percent) of people in the EU do not know what the EU Flower label means.
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The respondents were given eight pre-defined categories, from which they could choose one that according to them corresponded with the Flower label. The label was correctly recognised by only eleven per cent of EU citizens .An identical proportion of respondents considered the label to be a green energy label, whilst nine percent associated the label with bio-food (see Fig. 9). The level of awareness also varies greatly across the 25 member states (see Figure 10). The awareness regarding the Flower varied greatly amongst the countries from 24 percent to five percent.

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Source http://www.eco-label.com/default.htm Source: http://www.sustainability.vic.gov.au/resources/documents/Final_PEL_report_10-07.pdf

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Fig.9: Results of 2006 EU Flower awareness survey

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DK: Do not know

Fig.10: Response to question on the meaning of the EU label

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Source: http://www.sustainability.vic.gov.au/resources/documents/Final_PEL_report_10-07.pdf Source: European Commission, 2007.

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According to a survey carried out in Denmark in 2006, 30 percent of the respondents knew and recognised the Flower label. This awareness increased to 36 percent at the end of the Flower week , which was a campaign aiming at promoting the label and raising its publicity. The level of awareness has since then been on the rise as a result of the concerted efforts of the different member countries. This is reflected in the growing demand for EU Flower products. More specific data on the awareness of consumers in Europe towards eco-labelled products especially textiles is unavailable, as is data on the attitudes of producers and retailers towards eco-labelled products and the market penetration of eco-labelled products especially textiles (the latest study dates back to 2006 but only deals with the awareness towards the label and not towards certain eco-labelled product groups). The assessment of the current market situation for textiles in the EU points towards an upward trend in the demand for eco-labeled textiles since the customers in Europe are getting increasingly environmentally and health conscious. On the domestic front too, the growing Indian population and the increasing environmental consciousness amongst Indians also provides a huge potential market.
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European company perspective A small survey was conducted in the framework of the project on Ecolabelling export product from developing countries for green consumption on European markets. Win Win? . The study aimed at identifying specific variables that influence the diffusion of exports of eco-labelled products from developing countries and emerging economies to the European market. It also aimed at the development of strategies to overcome the barriers by looking at the attitudes of companies in the European part of the value chain towards eco-labelling and eco-labelled products from developing countries. The study focused on the paper and textile sectors. Of the companies interviewed, several drivers and positive benefits of using the eco-label were identified. These included the easy of communicating with the consumer, useful in marketing of the product, increase market access, good for the moral of the employees and contributing to the companys efforts to improve the environmental impacts of their supply chain. The use of eco-labels is further perceived to create environmental awareness amongst the consumer and the industry . It was also perceived that environmental issues might become more important market issue for textile industry in the nearby future therefore having textile products with an eco-label including environmental considerations would be an advantage . Labelling textiles in terms of their skin-friendliness, chemicals and substances used, production and origin of the raw materials is nowadays almost mandatory for a successful placing of products on the European market. After several scandals about chemicals in textiles, toys, and food, consumers are sensitive to what the products of their daily use are made of and demand
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Source: http://www.lab-cevreorman.gov.tr/ekoetiket/sunum/Eco-label_Marketing.pdf. Website visited on March 11th 2008. 40 Saskia van Broekhoven, 2007: Ecolabeling export product from developing countries for green consumption on European markets. Win Win? 41 Saskia van Broekhoven, 2007: Ecolabeling export product from developing countries for green consumption on European markets. Win Win? 42 Saskia van Broekhoven, 2007: Ecolabeling export product from developing countries for green consumption on European markets. Win Win?

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information as well as reliability from the producers and retailers. Therefore, eco-labels are important door openers for producers from outside the EU to engage in the European market . However, retailers interviewed for the purpose of writing this report pointed out almost without an exception that the actual awareness of consumers is very little. Although they demand certain standards for the healthiness and skin-friendliness of textiles and studies show that they are also willing to pay more for eco-labelled clothes, the main criteria for buying textiles prove to be their design and whether they look fashionable and modern. In order to successfully place eco-labelled products on the European market, producers and retailers have to fulfil both conditions: they need to provide reliable and healthy textiles, which are demanded highly, and also modern looks and styles, which consumers judge directly when buying. Therefore, eco-labels will not loose their importance in the future. Just like the demands of the consumers lead to increased efforts of producers and retailers to label which substances and chemicals were used for the production of textiles, an increased awareness concerning the environmental and social issues attached to the production of textiles will lead to greater efforts in that regard as well. According to Broekhoven, European companies are interested in eco-labelled products from developing countries. A small minority of the companies interviewed states a preference for eco-labelled products in their purchasing from developing countries, while a small majority of the companies suggested interested in such products, but states other aspects are important in their purchasing strategies as well .
44 43

2.1.7. Other relevant European textile standards and labels To provide a better picture of labels and standards for textiles popular in the international market, some information on the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the German Oeko-Tex label are reported below. It is important to highlight that these labels are not Type-I eco-labels, and their contribution to the environmental sustainability of the textile sector, is different from the one provided by the EU Eco-label.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) An alternative to the EU Flower label specifically for the textile industry was introduced in October 2007. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was first established by four associations (International Association National Textile Industry (IVN), Germany, Soil Association, England; Organic Trade Association, USA and Japan Organic Cotton Association) for niche markets only with the idea of sourcing the material from the same suppliers. Contrary to the EU Eco-label, GOTS it is not a Type-I label: GOTS adheres to ISO 65 and is a private company certification which provides the companies with yearly certification. There are six approved certification bodies (see Appendix 2). The standards for GOTS were established in 2005 for business to

43

Interview with Oeko Tex, April 25th 2008.

44

Saskia van Broekhoven, 2007, Ecolabeling export product from developing countries for green consumption on European markets. WinWin?

22

business communication and not as a label; however, given the increased retailer interest, and the potential interest of consumers, a label will be launched in the course of 2008. According to an official at GOTS, interest in the label has been expressed by a large number of retailers including big retailers such as C&A and Wal-Mart. According to the interviewee Adidas, Nike and Marks & Spencer are all aware of GOTS, and, are willing to accept products with GOTS certificate. The aim of the standard is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer (Global Standards, undated). It covers the entire chain of textiles from the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes. The standards focus on compulsory criteria only.
45

The label provides for two subdivisions- i) organic or organic in conversion (stands for: a product from an operation or portion thereof, which has completed at least 12 months under organic management and is under the supervision of a certification body), and ii) "made with x% organic materials" or "made with x% organic - in conversion materials" with regard to these standards. This distinction is provided since it takes a long time to reach the level of acquiring GOTS certification. It is applicable to all kinds of textile products. The number of companies adhering to the GOTS standards has been steadily on the rise with many in Europe, China, India, Latin America and other countries. The largest markets for GOTS certified textiles are in Germany, The Netherlands, UK and USA. The main challenge faced by GOTS at the moment is the unforeseen rapid increase of the demand for the certification, and the related need to keep the pace with the development of specific criteria for the different types of products.

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Oeko-Tex is another label which is widely used for certifying textiles. This label was first presented in 1992 at the Interstoff trade fair. Just one year after the launch of the product label, there were 214 companies involved in Oeko-Tex certification at all stages of the manufacturing process in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Today it is used in approximately 80 countries. Half of the certificates come from Europe while the other half come from Asia (especially China). North and South America make up 1.3 % of certified labels. There are three different kinds of Oeko-Tex certificates: the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 and the Oeko-Tex 100 plus. The most important Oeko-Tex label is the Oeko-Tex Standard 100. It is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. It is not a proper Type I-Eco-label as it does not consider all the main environmental impacts over the lifecycle of a product. It tests for harmful substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health, and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health. The certificate is rewarded in four different product classes according to how close it

45

For further information see www.global-standard.org/. Website visited on June 9th 2008.

23

is to the consumers skin. Approximately 70.000 products from 6.000 to 7.000 companies carry the OekoTex Standard 100. While the Oeko-Tex standard 100 is a product-related scheme, the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 is an example of a label including environmental aspects regarding the production process. It complements the product-related Oeko-Tex Standard 100 as a testing, auditing and certification system for environmentallyfriendly production sites throughout the textile processing chain. In order to qualify for certification according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, companies must meet stipulated criteria in terms of their environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes and provide evidence that at least 30 percent of total production is already certified under Oeko-Tex Standard 100. This label is far less popular and only fewer than 50 companies applied for it since the conditions for getting this label include high standards in environmentally-friendly production throughout the textile processing chain. The biggest challenge to producers is therefore finding suitable business partners and providers of raw materials that will allow setting up a production chain according to the criteria of the Oeko-Tex 1000.

2.1.8. Advantages of the EU Flower label The European Flower label offers several characteristics that offer advantages to producers and retailers. It has a high reputation based on strong and reliable criteria and is a guarantee for high environmental performance.
46

Fig. 11: Meaning of the EU Flower label

47

46 47

See: http://www.eco-friends.org/start_en.html. Website visited on May 6th 2008. Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/infokit/new_2002/fact_textiles_2002.pdf. Website visited on June 15th 2008.

24

Other advantages of the EU Flower label include It is supported by public authorities.

48

It is certified by an independent Competent Body. It is easy to spot. It is scientifically based. The quality of the product is guaranteed to be at least as good as equivalent products with no environmental benefits. It covers all the main environmental impacts of a product over its life-cycle. It is recognized in all the EU countries plus Norway and Iceland.

These characteristics, and the consideration that the awareness of the EU Eco-label in the European market is increasing and offers wide export opportunities, leads to our recommendation of opting for the EU-Flower when labelling textiles from India.

2.2. Case studies

2.2.1. Case study 1: Rama Textile Industry, Thailand Of the textile industries in Asia, Thailand has been a frontrunner in getting the EU flower label. Rama Textile Industry (RTI) along with three other textile industries in Thailand acquired the EU Flower label in 2007. Rama Textile Industry was founded in 1988. It is a leading manufacturer of high quality coloured yarn, specialized in normal dyeing and mercerized dyeing with markets centralized mainly in Europe and Asia. The companys focuses on both the product quality and variety by utilizing advanced technology to ensure that the most streamlined operations as well as management are achieved. RTI was awarded the EU eco-label for 100 per cent cotton yarn in March 2007. To be awarded, criteria set up on environmental responsibility and performance under the flower logo had to be met. This required a number of documents and inspections, which were considered tedious, time-consuming, and costly. It took nearly a year in fulfilling all the requirements and attaining the label with the support of National Metal and Materials Technology Center, Thailand (MTEC), Thailand Textile Institute (THTI), Kasetsart University, Thailand (KU), and Danish Technological Institute (DTI). THTI consistently raised PR campaigns to the public for the promotion of the company and creating awareness for the companys products.

48

See: http://www.entemp.ie/press/2004/20040415a.htm. Website visited on May 6th 2008.

25

The application fee and related costs of getting the label ranged from Bt300,000-350,000 (approximately 6000- 7000 Euro). This amount varies depending on the technical adaptation required to comply with the different criteria, and the number of additional test reports needed to be done under the given criteria. The experience with the EU eco-label has been reported as rather mediocre for RTI. Although the company gets a number of enquiries from both existing and potential customers regarding their products, there is, however, no remarkable impact to the annual sales. It is felt that the public relation campaigns from manufacturers themselves, government sector, and private sectors have not been sufficient. Moreover, customers are more cost-sensitive under the economy slowdown. Despite its experience with the label so far, the company aims at renewing their license since they believe in delivering a product that is of a high in quality and meets high international environmental standards. The company believes that the rising consumers awareness towards to the environment acts as an encouragement for manufacturers to become more responsible in turn. RTI also believes that besides the EU countries, other countries such as the USA and Japan are likely to adopt this EU Flower as their benchmark in the future. This could possibly provide RTI with a competitive edge over textile manufactures in the region. What RTI would like to see is more support from the government on this issue. Simultaneously, they are focusing more on cost reduction by improving production efficiency and reduction of reprocess.

2.2.2. Case Study 2: Bibette Clothing Manufacturers, South Africa Bibette Clothing Manufacturers is a company based in Lansdowne in the Western Cape. In 2000 it worked in conjunction with the Danish Cleaner Textile Production Project in order to manufacture a range of garments that were certified with the EU Flower eco-label. The garments included cotton Golf Shirts and T-Shirts. They were manufactured from yarn produced at Frame Spinning Mills in Ladysmith, and fabric knitted and dyed at Gregory Knitting Mills in Elandsfontein. Obtaining the EU Flower was reasonably easy for Bibette. The labelling process took approximately three months and was overseen by the Danish company Danced which sponsored the program. Gregory Knitting Mills and Frame Spinning joined the venture with Bibette. As a result good environmental management throughout the production process was achieved as were excellent standards of housekeeping and care for all materials and products. Since efforts to segregate and recycle waste streams have been made, overall waste volumes going to landfill has drastically reduced thus creating savings in costs of waste disposal for the company. When waste items cannot be reused or recycled, they are disposed of in the best manner for the environment. For example, old light tubes are crushed in the correct drum crusher and then disposed of by a permitted Waste Contractor. Energy efficiency is another aspect the company has looked into in order to maximise efficiency and energy use . The program ran successfully on one production line but was unsustainable to continue due to market related issues, and the company did not renew the EU Eco-label licence. Future successes in this regard
49 49

Source: http://www.pursuit.co.za/archive/octnov03_environment.htm. Website visited 28th March 2008.

26

is largely dependant on how the market responds to, and accept that there is a higher cost to producing garments in this manner. This is extremely difficult at present due to the competition of cheaply produced goods from the east.

2.3. Suggestions on suitable markets

The biggest EU importers of Indian textiles are Germany, UK, Italy, Spain and France, We suggest that India should continue aiming at these countries for their export in the future while expanding markets to other European countries. Further expansion to other European countries would be facilitated if more and more products are labelled with the EU Flower since this label has wider and growing acceptance across Europe. The product within the textile groups that have been particularly successful with Eco labelling in Europe are: baby and children's wear, clothes near skin - especially underwear and bed linen and exclusive and /or durable quality products (Pursuit, undated). For home textiles, in particular Denmark is the most promising market for India in the future since the demand for ecolablled products especially home textiles is increasing. Currently too, India is the 3 largest exporter of home textiles to Denmark (DIPP, 2006), Norway and Sweden too pose as potential markets for home textiles, since the situation is similar to that of Denmark in terms of consumer demand for eco labelled textiles. Germany also poses as a big market for future home textile imports from India.
rd

Table 3: EU countries with demand for home textiles and yarn Product 1 Bed and Table linen

50

Potential Countries Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain and the UK

2 3 4

Terry Towels Cotton Yarn Dyed Yarn

Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Ireland, Norway, Sweden and UK Austria, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, France, Germany, Greece, Italy and Portugal Greece

Data related to which European countries are the biggest consumers of EU Flower-labelled textiles overall and by sub product categories are not available.

50

Source: Own compilation.

27

3 Part II: Practical Roadmap

This part is meant to be a practical roadmap on how to successfully place eco-labelled textiles on the European market, including promising marketing and visibility strategies. The main suggested steps of this roadmap are the following:

Step 1: Eco-labelling your products applications and procedures o Decide whether to apply for the EU Flower label and the suitability of the company for acquiring the label o Go through the application procedure and get the label

Step 2: Successful placing of eco-labelled products o o o Forge business partnerships Explore business possibilities with existing business partners Inform textile committee and chambers of commerce of your eco-labelling activities

Step 3: Networking with European businesses o o Forge networks with business associations and sector events (e.g. fairs) Develop partnerships with consumer organizations to advertise eco-labelled textiles

Step 4: Marketing activities o o Promote the Indian textile companies exporting to Europe as sustainable and responsible. Widely publicise through various channels include company website to attract new customers

3.1. Eco-labelling your products tips for the application procedure

3.1.1. The EU eco-label application procedure When a product is included in the product group definition and complies with the published eco-label criteria, manufacturers, importers, service providers, trader or retailers who want to market their products in the EU, may apply for the eco-label (traders and retailers may submit applications in respect of products placed on the market under their own brand names). For a product made outside the European Community, the application must be presented to a Competent Body of any of the Member States in which the product is to be or has been placed on the market. The application must include all relevant documentation to prove that the product complies with the ecological and performance criteria. The Competent Body will inform the applicant of the necessary

28

documents that need to be submitted, the test results that must be provided, how they should be carried out, etc. It is suggested to start a dialogue with the selected Competent Body since the beginning, because it will guide the applicant through the process. An application pack to assist potential applicants and Competent Bodies for the eco-label for this product group is available on the EU Eco-label website (http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/textiles/apppack_2002.pdf). It consists of a model contract, and application form and a set of background notes. After assessing whether the product conforms to the eco-label criteria and that the application complies with the assessment and verification requirements set out in Commission Decision 2002/371/EC, the Competent Body will decide on the award the label. If the application is successful the Competent Body will conclude a contract with the applicant covering the terms of use of the label. Eco-labelled products can be marketed in all member states. Once obtained, the holder has the choice of displaying the Flower label on any part of the product. It can be used from the date it is awarded until the end of the period of validity of the criteria. Applications for the award of an eco-label are subject to payment of a fee. In addition, there is an annual fee for the use of the label. In addition, it can be useful to contact the Ecolabel Help Desk to see if there are additional support measures e.g. opportunities for joint communication and promotion steps, additional press releases, integration into the news section of this web-site etc.

Fig. 12: Overview on the application process (source: Eco-label Helpdesk 2008)

29

3.1.2. The EU Eco-label criteria The current valid criteria for the EU Flower are under review by the French competent body
st 51

and are in

the process of being updated through a participatory process. The criteria for the product group textiles, as well as the related assessments and verification requirements, shall be valid until 31 May 2009. The full text of the current criteria is available in Appendix 1 and of the proposed revisions in Appendix 2. Table 4: Textile Criteria
52

For further information see: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/product/pg_clothing_textiles_en.htm. Website visited June 2nd 2008. 52 Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/product/pg_clothing_textiles_en.htm. Website visited June 9th 2008.

51

30

Table 5: Criteria for textile products

53

53

Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/infokit/new_2002/fact_textiles_2002.pdf. Website visited on June 17th 2008.

31

3.1.3. The EU-Eco-label Competent Bodies Applicants are allowed to address their applications to a Competent Body in any of the 27 Member States of the European Union. We recommend contacting one of the Competent Bodies (CB) in the different European countries suggested as most promising export market, their contact details are in the table below.

Table 6: EU Competent Bodies for textile products

Spain
Catalua Mr Salvador Samitier Direcci General de Calidad Ambiental Departamento de Medio Ambiente y Vivienda C/ Diagonal, 523-525 E-08029 Barcelona Tel: +34 93 444 51 08 or Tel: +34 93 444 50 00 Fax: +34 93 419 76 30 wsamitier@gencat.net Valencia Mr D. Joaquim Nicls Conselleria del Territorio y Vivienda D.G. de Calidad Ambiental Servicio de Control Integrado de la Contaminacin Parque Tecnolgico de Paterna Centro de Tecnologias Limpias C/ Isaac Peral y Caballero, 5 46980 Paterna (VALENCIA) Tel: +34 96 136 69 49 or Tel: +34 96 197 35 47 Fax: +34 96 131 84 95 Niclos_joa@gva.es

Cantabria Sr. D. Miguel ngel Sastre Consejeria de Medio Ambiente D.G. de Medio Ambiente C/Lealtad, 24 39002 Santander Tel: +34 94 220 23 30 or Tel: +34 942 20 70 19 Fax: +34 942 20 70 34 Sastre_ma@gobcantabria.es Murcia Mr D. Juan Ignacio Snchez Gelabert, Consejeria de Medio Ambiente y Ordenacin del Territorio, Secretaria Sectorial de Medio Ambiente, Servicio de Calidad Ambiental, C/ Catedrtico Eugenio beda Romero, 3, planta 4, 30071 Murcia, tel: +34 968 22 88 88 or tel: +34 968 22 88 72, fax: +34 968 22 89 20, juani.sanchez@carm.es Baleares Mr Guillermo Chacartegui, Consejera de Medio Ambiente, Direccin General de Calidad Ambiental y Litoral Av. Gabriel Alomar y Villalonga, 33, 07006 Palma de Mallorca, Tel: +34 971 17 68 00, Fax: +34 971 17 68 49 gchacartegui@dgqal.caib.es

Italy
Mr Silvestrini Comitato Ecolabel Ecoaudit C/O APAT Via Vitaliano Brancati, 64 I-00144 Roma tel: (+39) 06 5007 2434 fax: (39) 06 5007 2439 ecocom@apat.it Ms Stefania Minestrini APAT - Agenzia per la Protezione dell'Ambiente e per i Servizi Tecnici Via Vitaliano Brancati, 48 I-00144 Roma tel: (+39-06) 5007 2231 fax: (39-06) 5007 2078 ecolabel@apat.it

France
Mme Patricia Proia Association Franaise de Normalisation (AFNOR Certification) 11, avenue Francis de Pressens Saint-Denis La Plaine Cedex F-93571 Paris tel: (+33) 1 41 62 86 10 fax: (+33) 1 49 17 90 37 Patricia.proia@afaq.afnor.org

Madrid Ms Da. Carmen Jimnez Servicio de Promocion y Disciplina Ambiental Calle Princesa 3, E-28008 Madrid Tel: +34 91 580 16 92 or Tel: +34 91 420 67 00 Fax: +34 91 580 54 18 carmen.jimenez.navarro@madrid.or g

Denmark
Mr Sren Mrch Andersen, Ministry of the Environment, Danish Environmental Protection Agency, Strandgade 29 DK - 1401 Copenhagen K, tel: (+45) 72 54 40 00, fax: (+45) 32 57 62 65, san@mst.dk, http://www.mst.dk

Germany
Mr Christian Loewe Federal Environmental Agency

32

Wrlitzer Platz 1; D-06844 Dessau Postfach 1406 D-06813 Dessau tel: (+49) 340 2103 3025 fax: (+49) 340 2104 3025 christian.loewe@uba.de Mr Henning Scholtz RAL Deutsches Institut fur Gutesicherung und Kennzeichnung Siegburger Str. 39 D -53757 Sankt Augustin tel: (+49) 22 41 16 05 23 fax: (+49) 22 41 16 05 11 henning.scholtz@ral.de

Ms Lisbeth Engel Hansen, Ecolabelling Denmark, Danish Standards Association, Kollegievej 5, DK-2920

Charlottenlund, tel: (+45) 72 300 450, fax: (+45) 72 300 451,leh@ecolabel.dk

United Kingdom
The UK Ecolabelling Competent Body Mr Charles Cox Green Labelling Unit Defra (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) Area 5D, Ergon House c/o Nobel House 17 Smith Square, LONDON SW1P 3JR tel: + 44 (0)20 7238 4404 charles.cox@defra.gsi.gov.uk

3.1.4 The EU Eco-label Assessment and Verification Requirements The EU Flower can be awarded to all kinds of textile clothing and accessories, interior textiles, and fibres, yarn and fabric,
54

yet there are certain criteria that need to be met in order to be able to apply for the

Flower. For example, the European eco-label is not available for textile products including mineral, metal, glass, carbon or other inorganic fibres. Concerning cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres there are strict standards regarding a list of different substances.
55

These however do not apply in the case

where more than 50 per cent of the cotton content is organically grown as certified by an independent organisation in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 of 24 June 1991 on organic production of agricultural products and indications referring thereto on agricultural products and foodstuffs. In case that 100 per cent of the cotton is organic and its production is certified by an independent organisation to comply with the Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 mentioned above, the applicant may also place the mentioned organic cotton next to the eco-label. Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/market_study/textilemktgppt0704.pdf. Website visited on March 7th 2008. 55 For detailed information see: http://eurlex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2002:133:0029:0041:EN:PDF. Website visited on June 2nd 2008.
54

33

These criteria aim in particular at promoting the reduction of water pollution related to the key processes throughout the textile manufacturing chain, including fibre production, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. The criteria are set at levels that promote the labelling of textile products which have a lower environmental impact. The specific assessment and verification requirements are indicated within each criterion. Where the applicant is required to provide declarations, documentation, analyses, test reports, or other evidence to show compliance with the criteria, it is understood that these may originate from the applicant and/or his supplier(s) and/or their supplier(s), et cetera, as appropriate. Where appropriate, test methods other than those indicated for each criterion may be used if their equivalence is accepted by the Competent Body assessing the application. The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65% RH 4% and 20 2C; these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles C standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing). Where appropriate, Competent Bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications. The Competent Bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS or ISO 14001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes).
56

Table 7: The EU Flower for textiles: assessment and verification requirements for the criteria: Criteria I Textile fibre criteria: (Fibre-specific criteria are set in this section for acrylic, cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres, elastane, flax and other bast fibres, greasy wool and other keratin fibres, man-made cellulose fibres, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene. Other fibres for which no fibre specific criteria are set are also allowed, with the exception of mineral fibres, glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres.) Processes and chemicals criteria: (The criteria apply to all stages of production of the product, including the production of the fibres. It is nevertheless accepted that
57

Assessment and verification The applicant shall supply detailed information as to the composition of the textile product

II

Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns: The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all sizing

56

Source: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/product/pg_clothing_textiles_en.htm. Website visited on June 6th 2008. 57 For full text of the current textile criteria please refer to Appendix 6.

34

recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, but only if they were applied in the previous life-cycle of the fibres.) 1 Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibre and yarn

preparations used.

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all sizing preparations used. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these substances or compounds on the yarn, fabric and final product. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: extraction as appropriate, derivatisation with acetic anhydride, determination by capillary gas-liquid chromatography with electron capture detection, limit value 0.05 ppm; for Biocidal or biostatic products, the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use

Biocidal or bistatic products

3 4 5

Stripping or depigmentation Weighting All chemicals and chemical preparations Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use

9 10 11

Bleaching agents: Chlorine agents are excluded for bleaching yarns, fabrics and end products Impurities in dyes: Color matter with fibre affinity (soluble or insoluble) Impurities in pigments: Insoluble color matter without fibre affinity Chrome mordant dyeing Metal complex dyes

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safetydata sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used; The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of chlorinated bleaching agents. The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance

The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; EN 1233 for Cr. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following standard shall be used = EN 14 362-1 and 2. (Note: false positives may be possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and confirmation is therefore recommended).

12

Azo Dyes

35

13 14 15 16

Dyes which are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction Potentially sensitising dyes Halogenated carriers for Polyester Printing

17

Formaldehyde

18

Waste water discharges from wetprocessing

19

Flame retardants

20 21

Anti Felting Finishes Fabrics Finishes

22 23

Fillings Coatings, membranes

laminates

and

24 III 1

Energy and water use Fitness for use criteria Dimensional changes washing and drying

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance. The applicant shall either provide a declaration that formaldehyde containing products have not been applied or provide a test report using the following test method: EN ISO 14184-1. The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060, showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance; The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or comply with the corresponding assessment and verification requirements laid down in Decision 2002/371/EC. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use (unless used for wool slivers and loose scoured wool) The applicant shall either provide a declaration that finishes have not been used, or indicate which finishes have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those finishes comply with this criterion. As indicated in the corresponding criteria As indicated in the corresponding criteria; The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such plasticizers or solvents; The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with the criterion- The VOC emissions to air shall not exceed 10 g C/kg, together with a declaration of compliance. The applicant shall provide data on water and energy use for the manufacturing sites involved in wet processing. The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standards EN ISO 63 30, ISO 5077 as follows: 3 washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle unless other drying procedures are indicated on the product, The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder). The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric). The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 X12. The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 X12. The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 B02.

during

Colour fastness to washing

Colour fastness (acid, alkaline)

to

perspiration

4 5 6

Colour fastness to wet rubbing Colour fastness to dry rubbing Colour fastness to light

36

Information appearing on box

The applicant shall provide a sample of the product packaging showing the label, together with a declaration of compliance with this criterion.
58

The European Commission has published a list of laboratories on its eco-label webpage

where textile

products can be tested. Apart from these, there are several laboratories in India where testing could be carried out. We would however recommend to confirm with the competent body regarding the acceptance of results from the Indian laboratories. List of laboratories in the suggested export countries are-

Table 8: Laboratories in selected countries

Spain
LGAI TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER Contact: Sr. Ramon Capellades i Font Ctra. d'accs a la Fac. de Medicina UAB Cerdanyola del Valls Apartat de Correus 18 08913 Bellaterra Tel: 935 672 000 Fax: 935 672 201 http://www.lgai.es E-mail: lgai@lgai.es

United Kingdom
Intertek Testing Services Joanna Carlo Centre Administrator ITS-RTC Davy Avenue, Knowlhill, MK5 8NL Tel: +44 (0)1908 857 704 Fax: +44 (0)1908 85 7830 E-mail: Joanna.carlo@its-rtc.co.uk Web: www.its-rtc.co.uk

Italy
I)Tecnologie d'Impresa Via Don Minzoni,15 ,22060 Cabiate (CO), Phone : +39031 7569911, Fax : 031 799199 II) Laboratorio di analisi Provericerche tessili di Primo Brachi, Via Fonda di Mezzana 61 L 59100 Prato ,Phone :+390574 591343, Fax :0574 593975 III) Istituto Di Certificazione Qualitat s.r.l., Viale Europa, 28 22060 Cabiate (CO) Phone : +39031 768403, Fax : 031 756106 IV) Centro Tessile Cotoniero e ,abbigliamento S.p.A., Piazza S. Anna, 2, 21052 Busto Arsizio (VA), Phone :+39033 1696711, Fax : 033 1680056 V) Centro Servizi Calza s.r.l Via Giotto, 5 46042 Castel Goffredo (MN), Phone :+390376 779712, Fax : 0376 779715 VI) Tessile di Como S.p.A. Via Castelnuovo,3, 22100 Como (CO) VII) Ecam di Camporese, Renzo S.a.S, Laboratorio analisi chimiche Via Lago di Alleghe 15, 36015 Schio (VI) VIII) Istituto ricerche e collaudi, M. Masini S.r.l., Via Moscova 11 20017 RHO (MI)

58

See http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/how_to/testlabs_en.htm

37

Table 9: Laboratories in India

1)

Textiles Committee, P. Balu Road,

Off. Veer Savarkar Marg, Prabhadevi Chowk, Prabhadevi, Mumbai - 400 025, India, Tel: 91-22-66527507, 66527500 (Board), Fax: 91-22-66527509, E-mail: secy@giasbm01.vsnl.net.in 2) Textiles Committee,

48B Tagore Nagar, Civil Lines, Ludhiana 141 001 (Punjab), India, Tel: 91-1612305635, Tele fax: 91161-2304906, E-mail: tcludhiana@satyam.net.in 3) Textiles Committee,

40, Community Centre, Phase I Naraina Industrial Area, New Delhi 110 028, India, Tel: 91-1165496570,25791380, Tele fax: 91-11-25896150/ 3241, E-mail:- tcnarain@vsnl.net

4)

Textiles Committee,

North Wing, 1st Floor, TNSC Board Complex, 130(Old No.212), R.K. Mutt Road, Mylapore Chennai 600 004, Tamil nadu, India, Tel: 91-442461 0887 /24615901, Tele fax: 9144-2464 0740,E-mail: tc_chennai@dataone.in

5) The South Indian Textiles Reseach Association, P.B.No.: 3205, Coimbatore Aerodrome Post, Coimbatore - 641 014, Tamil nadu, India. 6) The Bombay Textile Research Association,

Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg,Ghatkopar(W), Mumbai - 400 086, India, Tel.: 91 - 22 -2500 3651/2652/2117/1119/1135/7891/7892/2458, Fax : 91 - 22 - 2500 0459 Email : btra@vsnl.com, btralibrary@yahoo.co.uk

7)

HOHENSTEIN INDIA PVT LTD ,

3rd Floor, Asha House, 28 Suren Road,Andheri-Kurla Road, Mumbai 400 093, TPhone : 00-91-22-26823561/26825640, Telefax: 00-91-22-26823418,

38

E-Mail: Mr.Jacob.kutty <mailto:jacob.k@hohenstein.in> @hohenstein.in; india@hohenstein.org

8)

Texanlab,

3rd Floor, Narmada, Laxmi Industrial Complex, Vartak Nagar, Pokhran Rd. No : 1, Thane 400 601, India, Tel.: (91-22) 2585 6169/70/71, Fax : (91-22) 2585 6172, Email : texanlab@vsnl.com

9)

AZO Textile Testing Laboratory,

Sri Towers' II Floor, 73, Municipal Office Road, Tirupur - 641 604, Tel : 91 421 2232611, 2232612, 6532611, Fax : 91 421 2207032, Email : tests@azolab.com , info@azolab.com

10) Testtex India, Premson Industrial Estate, Unit no 301-304, Third floor, Tahira Compound, J ogeshwari Caves Road, Jogeshwari (East), Mumbai 400060 Tel No: 91-22-28259190, 91-22-26907498, Fax No: 91 - 22-28265116, E mail: labsindia@testtex.com, shingala@bom3.vsnl.net.in

3.2 . Successful placing of eco-labelled products on the EU market

Explore business possibilities with existing business partners

Once the eco-label has been achieved, we recommend to first target countries where textiles are already being exported by India, namely, Germany, UK, Italy, France, Spain and also Denmark (especially for home textiles). The table below lists the important retailers in Europe. As stated in the following table, retailers in Germany seem very interested in the German Oeko-Tex label. However, international retailes contacted in the framework of the project having Indian suppliers declared their interest in having the suppliers eco-labelling their product with the EU Eco-label; further information will be developed on this.

39

Table 10: Examples of textile retailers in Europe

Company name Damart TSD S.A. The Cotton Group (B&C T-Shirts) Kwintet a/s Triumph Auchan Bragard LVMH Sofatex/Sofi leta C&A Adidas OTTO Puma Aro Heimtextilie n GmbH SISO Textil GmbH Kik Textilen Gmbh Germany Haniel Textile Services Groep (HTS) JAB Josef Anstoetz KG Colmar Pierre Cardin Benetton Pimmy Mexx Zeeman textielsuper s Inditex Website www.damart.be www.bceuropeanstyle.com www.kwintet.com www.underwearshopping .de/triumph www.auchan.fr www.bragard.fr www.lvmh.com www.sofileta.com/index2. htm www.cunda.de www.adidas.com www.otto.de www.puma.com

Country Email adress Belgium Belgium lblaevoet@damart.com p.schmitz@bceuropeanstyle.com

Contact person Mevr. Blaevoet Pierre Schmitz Dominique de Sneytere

Telephone 0032 56483180 0032 71 870 151 0046 40 24 89 80 0049 8951118394 0033 3 20 81 69 06 0033 3 29 69 10 10 0033 1 44 13 22 22 0033 474 435 454 0049 211 9872 3221 0049 913284 3788 0049 40 646 152 83 0049 9132810

Denmark dds@kwintet.com Denmark France France France France harald.heigl@triumph.c om odupont@auchan sebastien.chanel@brag ard.fr a.capelli@lvmh.fr eric.firmann@sofileta.c om

Olivia RassonDupont

Germany df10@retail-sc.com Germany

Frank Hoendervangers

marcus.kuerner@adida Markus Kuerner s.de isabella.grindel@ottogr Germany oup.com public.relations@puma. Germany com Germany m.hoppen@aro.de Germany info@sisotextil.de Germany lucia.nguyen@kiktextilien.de stefan.roth@eurodress. de JABmanagement@jab. de info@colmar.it info@pierrecardin.com lara.bernardi@benetton Lara Bernardi .it, pimmy@pimmy.it Mr. Pronino Janne Koopmans Roel v.d. Laar Mr. Antonio Alvarez Ms Heller

0049 911 365 www.aro.de 50 0049 241 5299 0 www.sisotextil.de

0049 2383 95 www.kik-textilien.de 40 0049 203 80 60

Germany

www.haniel.com

Germany Italy Italy Italy Italy

Mrs. Schligting

0049 521 209 www.jab.de 30 003939 39431 www.colmar.it www.ahlers-pc.com 0039 422 www.benetton.com 519111 0039 175 260 www.pimmy.it 221 0031 205 144 www.mexx.com 302 0031 172 482 www.zeeman.com 911 www.inditex.com

Netherla j.koopmans@mexx.co nds m Netherla buyers@zeeman.com nds Spain antonioas@inditex.com

40

H&M Ikea Prominent (Europe) Limited French Connection retail The Peacock Group plc John Lewis Partnership plc Rosebys Operations Ltd Crystal Martin Holdings Ltd CW Textiles Ltd

Sweden Sweden

Henrik.Lampa@hm.co m thomas.bergmark@me mo.ikea.com

Hendrik Lampa Thomas Bergmark Colien Wild

0046 879 689 www.hm.com 46 0046 422 671 www.ikea.com 14 0044 115 921 n/a 2222 0044 1792 784 150 www.frenchconnection.c om www.peacocks.co.uk 0044 207 828 1000 www.johnlewispartnershi p.co.uk ( Head Quarters) 0044 1709 80 www.rosebys.co.uk 08 00 0044 1623 441100 0044 153 5 61 73 00 www.uk.crystalmartin.com www.lifefromcoloroll.co.u k

United cwild@paleu.com Kingdom United enquiries@frenchconne Kingdom ction.com United jackie.ryan@peacock.c Kingdom om United csr@johnlewis.co.uk Kingdom United daniel.kelly@rosebys.c Kingdom om United Info@UK.MartinKingdom Emprex-Int.Com United bedlinen.enquiries@cw Kingdom textiles.com

Jackie Rian

Nick MongerGodfrey

Table 11: Textile German Retailerss interest in Environmental standards

Retailer

Country

Environmental standards
More than 25% of our products bear the Eco Tex 100 label To a major extent for ladies underwear, socks and swimwear, mens underwear and various products within the baby range. Efforts focuses on the introduction of a certified Bio Cotton collection. The latter amount corresponds to approx. 12.5 million items of clothing products, including jeans, t-shirts, underwear and baby clothes. As of 2008, C&A will be offering its certified and 100%- Bio Cotton collection. No use of PVC Since 2000 PVC is not used anymore for 99% of the products, apart from some producing countries where there is no adequate alternative material available. Further steps are undertaken to reduce the use of PVC also in those countries to sero.

C&A

Germany

Adidas OTTO Kik Textilen Gmbh Germany

Germany Germany Germany

Eco Tex
Baby pants ko- Tex Standard 100 Women underwear ko- Tex Standard 100 Mens underwear ko- Tex Standard 100

Forge business partnerships

New retailers and private companies in the existing countries of export and in potential new markets which are interested in the eco-labelled products should also be explored to expand the scope of exports. Inform textile committee and the chamber of commerce of your eco-labelling activities

41

Explore possibilities of joint ventures with companies in the targeted EU country

3.3. Networking with European businesses

This section informs about European and suitable national markets business organisations important national fairs and potential marketing activities.

3.3.1. Business organisations Below is a list of national business organisations in the most suitable market countries for Indian exports in order to network and explore business opportunities with them.

Germany The Organization of the German Textile and Fashion Industry is a group of regional organizations and trade associations and is representative of the German textile industry. Information related to all the members of the Confederation, the European textile associations and other important organizations for the textile and clothing industry can be sough from them.

Organization of the German Textile and Fashion Industry Frankfurter Strasse 10-14 D-65760 Eschborn Tel:+49 6196 / 966-0 Fax:+49 6196 / 42170 e-mail:info@textil-mode.de Web: www.textil-mode.de

UK The British Apparel and Textiles Confederation (BATC) represents the entire textile and apparel supply chain, from fibre, yarn and fabric producers through to household textiles providers and garment manufacturers. The Confederation's members are the principal trade associations, representing 80 percent of the apparel and textile firms in the UK. Member companies cover all the stages of the textile, clothing and knitting manufacturing process. BATC, 5 Portland Place London W1N 3AA , UK Tel: +44--20 7636 7788- Fax: +44-20 7636 7515 Email: batc@dial.pipex.com

Italy

42

Italy's Textile Industry Association is a central organisation working on behalf of the Italian textile industry. Associazione Tessile Italiana Viale Sarca 223, 20126 Milan, Italy Telephone: +39 02 6610 3838/39 Fax: +39 02 6610 3863/65 E-mail: info@asstex.it Web: www.asstex.it

Spain Spanish International textile Association is an organisation which includes as its members the Spanish manufacturers of yarns, fabrics and home textiles in cotton and cotton blends. AITPA represents the cotton textile industry and its mixtures in all the Spanish State. It was established in 1977. Spanish Textile Association, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 670, 08010 Barcelona, Spain Tel. : +34 (0) 93 3189200 - Fax : +34 (0) 93 3026225 E-mail: aitpa@aitpa.es - Web: www. aitpa.es/ingindex.html

43

France Union des Industries Textiles U.I.T is the Textile Trade Association in France. It is composed of professional groups of employers by section, branch and region. It represents the bulk of the 947 textile firms active in France It is a member of the MEDEF, the Groupement des Fdrations Industrielles (GFI), the Comit de Liaison des Industries de Main-dOeuvre (CLIMO) and Euratex. Union des Industries Textiles 37/39 rue de Neuilly - BP 121 - 92110 Clichy - France Tel. : +33 (0) 1 47 56 31 00 - Fax : +33 (0) 1 47 30 25 28 E-mail : uit@textile.fr - Web : www.textile.eu - www.textile.fr Denmark Danish Textile Association (Dansk Textil Union) Dansk Detail Svanemllevej 41, Postbox 34 2900 Hellerup, Denmark Tel.: +45 33 12 17 08 Fax: +45 33 93 17 08 mail@dansk-detail.dk Web: www.dtu.com

3.3.2. Fairs of suitable markets The low level of knowledge regarding the EU eco-label poses a big barrier for the diffusion of the European eco-label . Participation in trade fairs such as Texworld Fair in Paris, and Expofil Fair (a fair which is especially targeting yarn and textile fibres and promotion in Stuttgart can raise the awareness eco-labelled products and demonstrate their quality. There are also expositions that focus or at least include home textiles, such as Scoperta, Proposte in Italy and Multiproducto Seleccion in Spain (see appendix 5 for further information about fairs and expositions). Presenting products there is an essential activity in order to get in touch with retailers, other producers and consumers. The Ethical fashion show organised in Paris every year represents an example of a fair addressing a niche market. Comfotex Leiziger Messe GmbH (Leipzig Fair) Project Team COMFORTEX Leipzig Messe-Allee 1 D-04356 Leipzig Germany Phone: +49 341 678-82 70 Fax: +49 341 678-82 72 E-mail: info@ comfortex.de www.leipzigermesse.de/LeMMon/confortex_web_eng.n sf/
59

Comfotex Is the Trade Fair for Interior Furnishings to show the latest trends in home design and to present their innovative products for windows, floors, walls, bedrooms and bath rooms. The 17th Comfortex will take place at Leipzig Exhibition Centre from September 6-8, 2008.

59

IEFE, 2005

44

Expofil Expofil is a world leader in the yarn and fibre sectors. It takes place twice a year at the Parc d' Expositions at Paris-Nord Villepinte. 50 spinners and fibre producers from 17 countries take part to the show. Expofil provides the whole textile industry with fashion information, technical and materials, well known and used the world over. The next Expofil in Paris is on September 23-26, 2008 and in Brussels on September 13-16 2008. Expofil Leiziger Messe GmbH (Leipzig Fair) Project Team COMFORTEX Leipzig Messe-Allee 1 D-04356 Leipzig Germany Phone: +49 341 678-82 70 Fax: +49 341 678-82 72 E-mail: info @ comfortex.de www.expofil.com

Heimtextil The Heimtextil has been the biggest international trade fair for home and contract textiles for decades. Held over four days in the middle of January as the first trade fair of the year, it serves as a platform for manufacturers, the trade and designers from all over the world. This year, over 2,800 exhibitors from 65 countries presented their products from 9 to 12 January 2008 to over 86,000 international trade visitors. The next Heimtextil will be held in Frankfurt am Main from 14 - 17 January 2009. http://heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/frank furt/en/home.html Heimtextil Frankfurt/Germany

Pitti Immagine Filati Is the top international trade fair showcasing yarns for the knitting industry. The next fair is from 18-21 June 2008.

Pitti Immagine Filati Pitti Immagine srl Via Faenza 111, 50123 Firenze Italy Phone: +39 55 36931 http://www.pittimmagine.com/en/home4. php

Textilhogar Product sector includes home textiles (bed, bath, kitchen & table); upholstery, curtains & accessories; rugs and carpets; haberdashery show; decoration complements; contract; gift show. The nest Textilhogar is on 23-27 September 2008.
t

Textilhogar Feria Valencia/ Av.de las Ferias s/n-46035 Valencia Spain Phone: +34 902 747330 Fax: +34 902 747345
http://textilhogar.feriavalencia.com/index2.jsp ?MTk%3D&X2VuZw%3D%3D

45

3.3.3. Marketing activities A few of the marketing activities for the promotion of eco-labelled textiles include

Networking through participation in conferences and workshops: For increasing the visibility of eco-labelled products, conferences and workshops can be very helpful. They bring together specialist from different backgrounds of textile production, retailers, producers, consumer protection agencies, suppliers of raw materials and focus specific issues related to ecological production. They can help to knit contacts and spread the idea of producing eco-labelled products. A personal dialogue and networking at the workshops and conferences is a good way of creating an interest in the products. In that way they could even help to find partners for a joint venture in order to gain the label.

There is also a need for the efficient and intensive use of the label on the products and on related material for informing consumers and business partners. One simple, yet important step is, to place the label on a prominent spot on the product so that consumer buying the product can easily view the label. If possible and enough space on the product or its packing is available, the producer could even deliver extra-information about the label and its background, the production of the good and what therefore makes the product special.

To include information on the company websites or brochures: More and more consumers gain their information from the internet which is why this chance should not be missed out to inform costumers about the label and what stands behind it. Giving clear and transparent information about the label, why the company acquired it and what standards it therefore complies to could also be a major benefit for the overall reputation of the company and its products.

To create a website to promote educational issues about eco labelled textiles to the consumers and downstream along the value chain. Develop a guide on eco-labelled textile and to promote via the different information channels: technical and business associations, websites, reliable NGOs, etc.

46

3.4. Conclusion

Increased export and expansion of a market for eco-labelled textiles potential exists for the product group chosen by the Indian partner. Europe has emerged as one of the biggest market for eco-labelled products due to a growing environmental and health concerns. The availability of home-grown cotton, a trained, skilled workforce and proficient managerial personnel provide India with a competitive edge for the manufacture of textile products. The main European countries of textile imports from India include UK, Germany, France, Italy, Spain and Denmark. India is already one of the biggest suppliers of home textiles to Europe. Acquiring the European eco-label would promote and consolidate further export in yarn and home textile and also lead to market expansion. Since the European Flower label is a label recognised by all the countries within the EU, it provides higher possibility of market penetration. It is important for the exporters to keep themselves abreast with developments related to the demand for eco-labelled textiles in Europe and to make their presence felt at important trade fairs and networking. In order to expand the market for Indian textile products, especially home textiles and yarn, promising marketing activities, important fairs, relevant retail companies in Europe and business associations in the six largest importers of Indian textile products have been outlined in the report. Some of the strategies for promotion include branding of products and joint ventures with companies in the target EU countries.

47

Appendix 1: Current Criteria for Textiles The aims of the criteria These criteria aim in particular at promoting the reduction of water pollution related to the key processes throughout the textile manufacturing chain, including fibre production, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. The criteria are set at levels that promote the labelling of textile products which have a lower environmental impact. Assessment and verification requirements The specific assessment and verification requirements are indicated within each criterion. Where the applicant is required to provide declarations, documentation, analyses test reports, or other evidence to show compliance with the criteria, it is understood that these may originate from the applicant and/or his supplier(s) and/or their supplier(s), et cetera, as appropriate. Where appropriate, test methods other than those indicated for each criterion may be used if their equivalence is accepted by the Competent Body assessing the application. The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65 % RH 2 % and 20 C 2 C; these n orm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing). Where appropriate, Competent Bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications. The Competent Bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS or ISO 14001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes.).

CRITERIA The criteria are divided into three main categories, concerning textile fibres, processes and chemicals, and fitness for use. TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA Fibre-specific criteria are set in this section for acrylic, cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres, elastane, flax and other bast fibres, greasy wool and other keratin fibres, man-made cellulose fibres, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene. Other fibres for which no fibre specific criteria are set are also allowed, with the exception of mineral fibres, glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres. The criteria set in this section for a given fibre-type need not be met if that fibre contributes to less than 5 % of the total weight of the textile fibres in the product. Similarly they need not be met if the fibres are of recycled origin. In this context, recycled fibres are defined as fibres originating only from cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers or from post-consumer waste (textile or otherwise). Nevertheless, at least 85 % by weight of all fibres in the product must be either in compliance with the corresponding fibrespecific criteria, if any, or of recycled origin. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall supply detailed information as to the composition of the textile product. 1. Acrylic (a) The residual acrylonitrile content in raw fibres leaving the fibre production plant shall be less than 1,5 mg/kg.

48

Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: extraction with boiling water and quantification by capillary gas-liquid chromatography. (b) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 2. Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok) Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall not contain more than 0,05 ppm (sensibility of the test method permitting) of each of the following substances: aldrin, captafol, chlordane, DDT, dieldrin, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, chlorobenzilate, dinoseb and its salts, monocrotophos, pentachlorophenol, toxaphene, methamidophos, methylparathion, parathion, phosphamidon. EN Official Journal of the L 133/32 European Communities 18.5.2002 This requirement does not apply where more than 50 % of the cotton content is organically grown cotton or transitional cotton, that is to say certified by an independent organisation to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 of 24 June 1991 on organic production of agricultural products and indications referring thereto on agricultural products and foodstuffs (1). This requirement does not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the cotton used in the final product, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or cotton plants producing the cotton in question, or to the cotton itself. Where 100 % of the cotton is organic, that is to say certified by an independent organisation to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 the applicant may place the mention organic cotton next to the eco-label. The applicant shall either provide proof of organic certification or documentation relating to the non-use by the farmers or a test report, using the following test methods: as appropriate, US EPA 8081 A (organochlorine pesticides, with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso-octane or hexane)), 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol), 8141 A (organophosphorus compounds), or 8270 C (semivolatile organic compounds). 3. Elastane (a) Organotin compounds shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. (b) The emissions to air of aromatic diisocyanates during polymerisation and spinning, expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 5 mg/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 4. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute, and ramie) Flax and other bast fibres shall not be obtained by water retting, unless the waste water from the water retting is treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for flax and the other bast fibres. Assessment and verification: If water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD). 5. Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, alpaca, goat)

49

(a) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 0,5 ppm: -hexachlorocyclohexane (lindane), -hexachlorocyclohexane, -hexachlorocyclohexane, -hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin, endrin, p,p'-DDT, p,p'-DDD. (b) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 2 ppm: diazinon, propetamphos, chlorfenvinphos, dichlorfenthion, chlorpyriphos, fenchlorphos. (c) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 0,5 ppm: cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate, cyhalothrin, flumethrin. (d) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 2 ppm: diflubenzuron, triflumuron. These requirements (as detailed in (a), (b), (c) and (d) and taken separately) do not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the wool or keratin fibres in question, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or animals concerned. Assessment and verification for (a), (b), (c) and (d): The applicant shall either provide the documentation indicated above or provide a test report, using the following test method: IWTO Draft Test Method 59. (e) For scouring effluent discharged to sewer, the COD discharged to sewer shall not exceed 60 g/kg greasy wool, and the effluent shall be treated off-site so as to achieve at least a further 75 % reduction of COD content, expressed as an annual average. For scouring effluent treated on site and discharged to surface waters, the COD discharged to surface waters shall not exceed 5 g/kg greasy wool. The pH of the effluent discharged to surface waters shall be between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving waters is outside this range), and the temperature shall be below 40 (unless the temperature of the recei ving water is above this value). C Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide relevant data and test report, using the following test method: ISO 6060. (1) OJ L 198, 22.7.1991, p. 1.EN Official Journal of 18.5.2002 the European Communities L 133/33 6. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetate) (a) The level of AOX in the fibres shall not exceed 250 ppm. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: ISO 11480.97 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). (b) For viscose fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from the processing during fibre production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 120 g/kg filament fibre produced and 30 g/kg staple fibre produced. Where both types of fibre are produced on a given site, the overall emissions must not exceed the corresponding weighted average. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. (c) For viscose fibres, the emission to water of zinc from the production site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 0,3 g/kg. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. (d) For cupro fibres, the copper content of the effluent water leaving the site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 0,1 ppm.

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Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 7. Polyamide The emissions to air of N2O during monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 10 g/kg polyamide 6 fibre produced and 50 g/kg polyamide 6,6 produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 8. Polyester (a) The amount of antimony in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. Where no antimony is used, the applicant may state antimony free (or equivalent text) next to the eco-label. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or a test report using the following test method: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on the raw fibre prior to any wet processing. (b) The emissions of VOCs during polymerisation of polyester, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 1,2 g/kg of produced polyester resin. (VOCs are any organic compound having at 293,15 K a vapour pressure of 0,01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 9. Polypropylene Lead-based pigments shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

PROCESSES AND CHEMICALS CRITERIA The criteria in this section apply, where appropriate, to all stages of production of the product, including the production of the fibres. It is nevertheless accepted that recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, but only if they were applied in the previous life-cycle of the fibres. 10. Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns (a) Size: At least 95 % (by dry weight) of the component substances of any sizeing preparation applied to yarns shall be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants, or else shall be recycled. Assessment and verification: In this context, a substance is considered as sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable: if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 A, OECD 301 E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, or ISO 9888 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 70 % within 28 days, or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 B, ISO 9439, OECD 301 C, OECD 302 C, OECD 301 D, ISO 10707, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, ISO 10708 or ISO 14593 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 60 % within 28 days. EN Official Journal of the L 133/34 European Communities 18.5.2002 or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 303 or ISO 11733 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 80 % within 28 days,

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 or, for substances for which these test methods are inapplicable, if evidence of an equivalent level of biodegradation or elimination is presented. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all sizeing preparations used. (b) Spinning solution additives, spinning additives and preparation agents for primary spinning (including carding oils, spin finishes and lubricants): At least 90 % (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants. This requirement does not apply to preparation agents for secondary spinning (spinning lubricants, conditioning agents), coning oils, warping and twisting oils, waxes, knitting oils, silicone oils and inorganic substances. Assessment and verification: Sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable is as defined above in part (a). The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all such additives or preparation agents used. (c) The content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) in the mineral oil proportion of a product shall be less than 1,0 % by weight. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety date sheets, product information sheets or declarations, indicating either the content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons or the non-use of products containing mineral oils. 11. Biocidal or biostatic products (a) Chlorophenols (their salts and esters), PCB and organotin compounds shall not be used during transportation or storage of products and semi-manufactured products. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these substances or compounds on the yarn, fabric and final product. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: extraction as appropriate, derivatisation with acetic anhydride, determination by capillary gas-liquid chromatography with electron capture detection, limit value 0,05 ppm. (b) Biocidal or biostatic products shall not be applied to products so as to be active during the use phase. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 12. Stripping or depigmentation Heavy metal salts (except of iron) or formaldehyde shall not be used for stripping or depigmentation. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 13. Weighting Compounds of cerium shall not be used in the weighting of yarn or fabrics. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 14. Auxiliary chemicals Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs), linear alkylbenzene sulfonates (LAS), bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC), distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSDMAC), di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC), ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA), and diethylene

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triamine penta acetate (DTPA) shall not be used and shall not be part of any preparations or formulations used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 15. Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents At each wet-processing site, at least 95 % by weight of the detergents, at least 95 % by weight of fabric softeners and at least 95 % by weight complexing agents used shall be sufficiently degradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants. Assessment and verification: Sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable is as defined above in the criterion related to auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used. EN Official Journal of 18.5.2002 the European Communities L 133/35 16. Bleaching agents In general, AOX emissions in the bleaching effluent shall be less than 40 mg Cl/kg. In the following cases, the level shall be less than 100 mg Cl/kg: linen and other bast fibres, cotton, which has a degree of polymerisation below 1 800, and which is intended for white end products. This requirement does not apply to the production of man-made cellulose fibres. The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of chlorinated bleaching agents or provide a test report using the following test method: ISO 9562 or prEN 1485. 17. Impurities in dyes The levels of ionic impurities in the dyes used shall not exceed the following: Ag 100 ppm; As 50 ppm; Ba 100 ppm; Cd 20 ppm; Co 500 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Cu 250 ppm; Fe 2 500 ppm; Hg 4 ppm; Mn 1 000 ppm; Ni 200 ppm; Pb 100 ppm; Se 20 ppm; Sb 50 ppm; Sn 250 ppm; Zn 1 500 ppm. Any metal that is included as an integral part of the dye molecule (e.g. metal complex dyes, certain reactive dyes, etc.) shall not be considered when assessing compliance with these values, which only relate to impurities. The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance. 18. Impurities in pigments The levels of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the following: As 50 ppm; Ba 100 ppm, Cd 50 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Hg 25 ppm; Pb 100 ppm; Se 100 ppm Sb 250 ppm; Zn 1 000 ppm. The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance. 19. Chrome mordant dyeing Chrome mordant dyeing is not allowed. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 20. Metal complex dyes. If metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are used:

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(a) In case of cellulose dyeing, where metal complex dyes are part of the dye recipe, less than 20 % of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to waste water treatment (whether on-site or off-site). In case of all other dyeing processes, where metal complex dyes are part of the dye recipe, less than 7 % of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to waste water treatment (whether on-site or off-site). The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr. (b) The emissions to water after treatment shall not exceed: Cu 75 mg/kg (fibre, yarn or fabric); Cr 50 mg/kg; Ni 75 mg/kg. The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr. 21. Azo dyes Azo dyes shall not be used that may cleave to any one of the following aromatic amines: 4-aminodiphenyl (92-67-1) Benzidine (92-87-5) 4-chloro-o-toluidine (95-69-2) 2-naphthylamine (91-59-8) o-amino-azotoluene (97-56-3) 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8) p-chloroaniline (106-47-8) 2,4-diaminoanisol (615-05-4) 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane (101-77-9) EN Official Journal of the L 133/36 European Communities 18.5.2002 3,3'-dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1) 3,3'-dimethoxybenzidine (119-90-4) 3,3'-dimethylbenzidine (119-93-7) 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane (838-88-0) p-cresidine (120-71-8) 4,4'-methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (101-14-4) 4,4'-oxydianiline (101-80-4) 4,4'-thiodianiline (139-65-1) o-toluidine (95-53-4) 2,4-diaminotoluene (95-80-7) 2,4,5-trimethylaniline (137-17-7) 4-aminoazobenzene (60-09-3) o-anisidine (90-04-0) Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: German method B-82.02 or French method XP G 08-014, 30 ppm threshold. (Note: false positives may be possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and confirmation is therefore recommended). 22. Dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (a) The following dyes shall not be used: C.I. Basic Red 9 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. Acid Red 26 C.I. Basic Violet 14 C.I. Disperse Orange 11

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C. I. Direct Black 38 C. I. Direct Blue 6 C. I. Direct Red 28 C. I. Disperse Yellow 3 Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes. (b) No use is allowed of dye substances or of dye preparations containing more than 0,1 % by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Council Directive 67/548/EEC of 27 June 1967 on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions relating to the classification, packaging and labelling of dangerous substances (1), and its subsequent amendments. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes. (1) OJ L 196, 16.8.1967, p. 1. EN Official Journal of 18.5.2002 the European Communities L 133/37 23. Potentially sensitising dyes The following dyes shall only be used if the fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) of the dyed fibres, yarn or fabric is at least 4: C.I. Disperse Blue 3 C.I. 61 505 C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. 62 500 C.I. Disperse Blue 26 C.I. 63 305 C.I. Disperse Blue 35 C.I. Disperse Blue 102 C.I. Disperse Blue 106 C.I. Disperse Blue 124 C.I. Disperse Orange 1 C.I. 11 080 C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. 11 005 C.I. Disperse Orange 37 C.I. Disperse Orange 76 (previously designated Orange 37) C.I. Disperse Red 1 C.I. 11 110 C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. 62 015 C.I. Disperse Red 17 C.I. 11 210 C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. 10 345 C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. 10 375 C.I. Disperse Yellow 39 C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

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Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes or a test report using the following test method for colour fastness: ISO 105-E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric). 24. Halogenated carriers for polyester Halogenated carriers shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 25. Printing (a) Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5 % volatile organic compounds (VOCs: any organic compound having at 293,15 K a vapour pressure of 0,01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance. (b) Plastisol-based printing is not allowed. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance. 26. Formaldehyde The amount of free and partly hydrolysable formaldehyde in the final fabric shall not exceed 30 ppm for products that come into direct contact with the skin, and 300 ppm for all other products. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that formaldehyde containing products have not been applied or provide a test report using the following test method: EN ISO 14184-1. 27. Waste water discharges from wet-processing (a) Waste water from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring sites and flax retting sites) shall, when discharged to surface waters after treatment (whether on-site or off-site), have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg, expressed as an annual average. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060, showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. EN Official Journal of the L 133/38 European Communities 18.5.2002 (b) If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it shall also have a pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) and a temperature of less than 40 (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value). C Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 28. Flame retardants No use is allowed of flame retardant substances or of flame retardant preparations containing more than 0,1 % by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect),

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R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments. This requirement does not apply to flame retardants that on application change their chemical nature to no longer warrant classification under any of the R-phrases listed above, and where less than 0,1 % of the flame retardant on the treated yarn or fabric remains in the form as before application. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that flame retardants have not been used, or indicate which flame retardants have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those flame retardants comply with this criterion. 29. Shrink resistant finishes Halogenated shrink-resist substances or preparations shall only be applied to wool slivers. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use (unless used for wool slivers). 30. Finishes No use is allowed of finishing substances or of finishing preparations containing more than 0,1 % by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments. EN Official Journal of 18.5.2002 the European Communities L 133/39 Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that finishes have not been used, or indicate which finishes have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those finishes comply with this criterion. 31. Fillings

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(a) Filling materials consisting of textile fibres shall comply with the textile fibre criteria (Nos 1 9) where appropriate. (b) Filling materials shall comply with criterion 11 on Biocidal or biostatic products and the criterion 26 on Formaldehyde. (c) Detergents and other chemicals used for the washing of fillings (down, feathers, natural or synthetic fibres) shall comply with criterion 14 on Auxiliary chemicals and criterion 15 on Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. 32. Coatings, laminates and membranes (a) Products made of polyurethane shall comply with criterion 3(a) regarding organic tin and criterion 3(b) regarding the emission to air of aromatic diisocyanates. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. (b) Products made of polyester shall comply with criterion 8(a) regarding the amount of antimony and criterion 8(b) regarding the emission of VOCs during polymerisation. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. (c) Coatings, laminates and membranes shall not be produced using plasticisers or solvents, which are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such plasticizers or solvents. 33. Energy and water use The applicant is requested, on a voluntary basis, to provide detailed information on water and energy use for the manufacturing sites involved in spinning, knitting, weaving and wet processing. Assessment and verification: The applicant is requested to provide, on a voluntary basis, the abovementioned information.

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FITNESS FOR USE CRITERIA The following criteria apply either to the dyed yarn, the final fabric(s), or the final product, with tests carried out as appropriate. 34. Dimensional changes during washing and drying Information on dimensional changes (%) shall be stated both on the care label and on the packaging and/or other product information if the dimensional changes exceed: 2 % (warp and weft) for curtains and for furniture fabric that is washable and removable, 6 % (warp and weft) for other woven products, 8 % (length and width) for other knitted products, 8 % (length and width) for terry towelling. EN Official Journal of the L 133/40 European Communities 18.5.2002 This criterion does not apply to: fibres or yarn, products clearly labelled dry clean only or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), furniture fabrics that are not removable and washable. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 5077 modified as follows: 3 washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle unless other drying procedures are indicated on the product, at temperatures as marked on the product, wash load (2 or 4 kg) depending on the wash symbol. Should any of the abovementioned limits be exceeded, a copy of the care-label and of the packaging and/or other product information shall be provided. 35. Colour fastness to washing The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3 to 4 for colour change and at least level 3 to 4 for staining. This criterion does not apply to products clearly labelled dry clean only or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to non-washable furniture fabrics. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder). 36. Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline) The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3 to 4 (colour change and staining). A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both dark coloured (standard depth > 1/1) and made of regenerated wool or more than 20 % silk. This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric). 37. Colour fastness to wet rubbing The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2 to 3. A level of 2 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim.

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This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12. 38. Colour fastness to dry rubbing The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3 to 4 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12. 39. Colour fastness to light For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 5. For all other products the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 4. A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of more than 20 % wool or other keratin fibres, or more than 20 % silk, or more than 20 % linen or other bast fibres. This requirement does not apply to mattress ticking, mattress protection or underwear. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 B02. EN Official Journal of 18.5.2002 the European Communities L 133/41 40. Information appearing on the eco-label Box 2 of the eco-label shall contain the following text: reduced water pollution hazardous substances restricted whole production chain covered Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a sample of the product packaging showing the label, together with a declaration of compliance with this criterion.

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Appendix 2- Criteria for Textiles Proposed Draft of the New Criteria Please note that this text has not be approved yet. Article 1 In order to be awarded the Community eco-label under Regulation (EC) No 1980/2000, textile products must fall within the product group textile products as defined in Article 2, and must comply with the ecological criteria set out in the Annex to this Decision. Article 2 The product group textile products shall comprise: Textile clothing and accessories: clothing and accessories (such as handkerchiefs, scarves, bags, shopping bags, rucksacks, belts etc.) consisting of at least 90% by weight of textile fibres; Interior textiles: textile products for interior use consisting of at least 90% by weight of textile fibres. Mats and rugs are included. Wall to wall floor coverings and wall coverings are excluded. Fibres, yarn and fabric (Including durable non woven): intended for use in textile clothing and accessories or interior textiles. For textile clothing and accessories and for interior textiles: down, feathers, membranes and coatings need not be taken into account in the calculation of the percentage of textile fibres. Article 3 For administrative purposes the code number assigned to the product group textile products shall be 016. Article 4 Article 3 of Decision 1999/178/EC is replaced by the following: The product group definition and the specific ecological criteria for the product group shall be valid until 31 May 2003. Article 5 This Decision shall apply from 1 June 2002 until 31 May 2007. Producers of products falling within the product group textile products which have already been awarded the eco-label before 1 June 2002 may continue to use that label until 31 May 2003. Producers of products falling within the product group textile products which have already applied for the award of the eco-label before 1 June 2002 may be awarded the eco-label under the terms of Decision 1999/178/EC until 31 May 2003. From 1 June 2002, new applications for the award of the eco-label for the product group textile products shall satisfy the criteria set out in this Decision. Article 6 This Decision is addressed to the Member States. Done at Brussels, 15 May 2002. For the Commission Margot WALLSTRM Member of the Commission

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ANNEX FRAMEWORK The aims of the criteria These criteria aim in particular at promoting the reduction of water pollution related to the key processes throughout the textile manufacturing chain, including fibre production, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. The criteria are set at levels that promote the labelling of textile products which have a lower environmental impact. Assessment and verification requirements The specific assessment and verification requirements are indicated within each criterion. Where the applicant is required to provide declarations, documentation, analyses, test reports, or other evidence to show compliance with the criteria, it is understood that these may originate from the applicant and/or his supplier(s) and/or their supplier(s), et cetera, as appropriate. Where appropriate, test methods other than those indicated for each criterion may be used if their equivalence is accepted by the Competent Body assessing the application. The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65% RH 4% and 20 2C; these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles C standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing). Where appropriate, Competent Bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications. The Competent Bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS or ISO 14001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes).

CRITERIA The criteria are divided into three main categories, concerning textile fibres, processes and chemicals, and fitness for use.

TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA Fibre-specific criteria are set in this section for acrylic, cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres, elastane, flax and other bast fibres, greasy wool and other keratin fibres, man-made cellulose fibres, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene. Other fibres for which no fibre specific criteria are set are also allowed, with the exception of mineral fibres, glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres. The criteria set in this section for a given fibre-type need not be met if that fibre contributes to less than 5% of the total weight of the textile fibres in the product. Similarly they need not be met if the fibres are of recycled origin. In this context, recycled fibres are defined as fibres originating only from cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers or from post-consumer waste (textile or otherwise). Nevertheless, at least 85 % by weight of all fibres in the product must be either in compliance with the corresponding fibrespecific criteria, if any, or of recycled origin. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall supply detailed information as to the composition of the textile product. 1. Acrylic

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(a) The residual acrylonitrile content in raw fibres leaving the fibre production plant shall be less than 1.5 mg/kg. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: extraction with boiling water and quantification by capillary gas-liquid chromatography. (b) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 2. Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok) Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall not contain more than 0.05 ppm (sensibility of the test method permitting) of each of the following substances: aldrin, captafol, chlordane, DDT, dieldrin, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, chlorobenzilate, dinoseb and its salts, monocrotophos, pentachlorophenol, toxaphene, methamidophos, methylparathion, parathion, phosphamidon. The test should be made on raw cotton, before it comes through any wet treatment, for each lot of cotton or two times a year if more than two lots of cotton per year are received. This requirement does not apply where more than 50% of the cotton content is organically grown cotton or transitional cotton, that is to say certified by an independent organisation to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 of 24 June 1991 on organic production of agricultural products and indications referring thereto on agricultural products and foodstuffs (1). This requirement does not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75% of the cotton used in the final product, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or cotton plants producing the cotton in question, or to the cotton itself. Where at least 95% of the cotton is organic, that is to say certified by an independent organisation to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 the applicant may place the mention organic cotton next to the eco-label. Between 70 and 95% it may be labelled made with xy% organic cotton). A percentage of products made of organic cotton is recommended (about 5%) and will become mandatory in the next revision. The applicant is requested to get prepared to comply with the future criterion. The applicant shall either provide proof of organic certification or documentation relating to the non-use by the farmers or a test report, using the following test methods: as appropriate, US EPA 8081 A (organo-chlorine pesticides, with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso-octane or hexane)), 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol), 8141 A (organophosphorus compounds), or 8270 C (semi-volatile organic compounds). 3. Elastane (a) Organotin compounds shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. (b) The emissions to air of aromatic diisocyanates during polymerisation and fibre production, measured at the process steps where they occur, including fugitive emissions as well expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 5 mg/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

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4. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute, and ramie) Flax and other bast fibres shall not be obtained by water retting, unless the waste water from the water retting is treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75% for hemp fibres and by at least 95% for flax and the other bast fibres. Assessment and verification: If water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD). 5. Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, alpaca, goat) (a) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 0.5 ppm : hexachlorocyclohexane (lindane), -hexachlorocyclohexane, -hexachlorocyclohexane, hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin, endrin, p,p'-DDT, p,p'-DDD. (b) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 2 ppm: diazinon, propetamphos, chlorfenvinphos, dichlorfenthion, chlorpyriphos, fenchlorphos. (c) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 0.5 ppm: cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate, cyhalothrin, flumethrin. (d) The sum total content of the following substances shall not exceed 2 ppm: diflubenzuron, triflumuron, dicyclanil, cyromazine (insect growth regulator). The test should be made on raw wool, before it comes through any wet treatment, for each lot of wool two times a year . These requirements (as detailed in (a), (b), (c) and (d) and taken separately) do not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75% of the wool or keratin fibres in question, together with a declaration from these farmers that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or animals concerned. Assessment and verification for (a), (b), (c) and (d): The applicant shall either provide the documentation indicated above or provide a test report, using the following test method: IWTO Draft Test Method 59. (e) For scouring effluent discharged to sewer, the COD discharged to sewer shall not exceed 60 g/kg greasy wool, and the effluent shall be treated off-site so as to achieve at least a further 75% reduction of COD content, expressed as an annual average. After treating the scouring effluent, the final COD discharge shall not exceed 5 g/kg greasy wool. The pH of the effluent discharged to surface waters shall be between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving waters is outside this range), and the temperature shall be below 40C (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide relevant data and test report, using the following test method: ISO 6060. 6. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetate) (a) The level of AOX in the fibres shall not exceed 250 ppm. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a test report, using the following test method: ISO 11480.97 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). (b) For viscose fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from the processing during fibre production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 120 g/kg filament fibre produced and 30 g/kg staple fibre produced. Where both types of fibre are produced on a given site, the overall emissions must not exceed the corresponding weighted average. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. (c) For viscose fibres, the emission to water of zinc from the production site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 0.3 g/kg.

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Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. (d) For cupro fibres, the copper content of the effluent water leaving the site, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 0.1 ppm. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 7. Polyamide The emissions to air of N2O during monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 10 g/kg polyamide 6 fibre produced and 50 g/kg polyamide 6,6 produced. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 8. Polyester (a) The amount of antimony in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. Where no antimony is used, the applicant may state antimony free (or equivalent text) next to the eco-label. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or a test report using the following test method: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on the raw fibre prior to any wet processing. (b) The emissions of VOCs during polymerisation and fibre production of polyester, measured at the process steps where they occur, including fugitive emissions as well, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 1.2 g/kg of produced polyester resin. (VOCs are any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 9. Polypropylene Lead-based pigments shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

PROCESSES AND CHEMICALS CRITERIA The criteria in this section apply, where appropriate, to all stages of production of the product, including the production of the fibres. It is nevertheless accepted that recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, but only if they were applied in the previous lifecycle of the fibres. 10. Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns (a) Size: At least 95% (by dry weight) of the component substances of any sizing preparation applied to yarns shall be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plant, or else shall be recycled. The sum of each component is taken into account. Assessment and verification: In this context, a substance is considered as sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable:

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- if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 A, OECD 301 E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887,OECD 302 B, or ISO 9888 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 70 % within 28 days, - or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 B, ISO 9439, OECD 301 C, OECD 302 C, OECD 301 D, ISO 10707, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, ISO 10708 or ISO 14593 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 60% within 28 days, - or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 303 or ISO 11733 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 80% within 28 days, - or, for substances for which these test methods are inapplicable, if evidence of an equivalent level of biodegradation or elimination is presented. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all sizeing preparations used. (b) Spinning solution additives, spinning additives and preparation agents for primary spinning (including carding oils, spin finishes and lubricants): At least 90% (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants. This requirement does not apply to preparation agents for secondary spinning (spinning lubricants, conditioning agents), coning oils, warping and twisting oils, waxes, knitting oils, silicone oils and inorganic substances. The sum of each component is taken into account. Assessment and verification: In this context, a substance is considered as sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants: - if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 A, OECD 301 E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887,OECD 302 B, or ISO 9888 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 70 % within 28 days, - or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 B, ISO 9439, OECD 301 C, OECD 302 C, OECD 301 D, ISO 10707, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, ISO 10708 or ISO 14593 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 60% within 28 days, - or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 303 or ISO 11733 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 80% within 28 days, - or, for substances for which these test methods are inapplicable, if evidence of an equivalent level of biodegradation or elimination is presented. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all such additives or preparation agents used. (c) The content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) in the mineral oil proportion of a product shall be less than 3% by weight. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety date sheets, product information sheets or declarations, indicating either the content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons or the non-use of products containing mineral oils. 11. Biocidal or biostatic products (a) Chlorophenols (their salts and esters), PCB and organotin compounds shall not be used during transportation or storage of products and semi-manufactured products. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these substances or compounds on the yarn, fabric and final product. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: extraction as appropriate, derivatisation with acetic anhydride, determination by capillary gas-liquid chromatography with electron capture detection, limit value 0.05 ppm.

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(b) Biocidal or biostatic products shall not be used. applied to products so as to be active during the use phase. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 12. Stripping or depigmentation Heavy metal salts (except of iron) or formaldehyde shall not be used for stripping or depigmentation. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 13. Weighting Compounds of cerium shall not be used in the weighting of yarn or fabrics. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 14. All chemicals and chemical preparations Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs), linear alkylbenzene sulfonates (LAS), bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC), distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSDMAC), di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC), ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA), and diethylene triamine penta acetate (DTPA) shall not be used and shall not be part of any preparations or formulations used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 15. Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents At each wet-processing site, at least 95% by weight of the detergents, at least 95% by weight of fabric softeners and at least 95% by weight complexing agents used shall be sufficiently degradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants. At each wet-processing site, the detergents (which contain surfactants) in use shall fulfill the criteria: the surfactants meet the criteria for ultimate aerobic biodegradation. At least 95% of the other substances by weight shall be sufficiently degradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants. Assessment and verification: Sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable is as defined above in the criterion related to auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safetydata sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used. 'Ultimate aerobic biodegradation' has to be interpreted as laid down in Annex III of the regulation (EC) No 648/2004 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 31 March 2004 on detergents. The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safetydata sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used. 16. Bleaching agents: Chlorine agents are excluded for bleaching yarns, fabrics and end products In general, AOX emissions in the bleaching effluent shall be less than 40 mg Cl/kg. In the following cases, the level shall be less than 100 mg Cl/kg: - linen and other bast fibres, - cotton, which has a degree of polymerisation below 1,800, and which is intended for white end products. This requirement does not apply to the production of man-made cellulose fibres. (See criterion 6a). The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of chlorinated bleaching agents or

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provide a test report using the following test method: ISO 9562 or prEN 1485. 17. Impurities in dyes: Color matter with fibre affinity (soluble or insoluble)

The levels of ionic impurities in the dyes used shall not exceed the following: Ag 100 ppm; As 50 ppm; Ba 100 ppm; Cd 20 ppm; Co 500 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Cu 250 ppm; Fe 2 500 ppm; Hg 4 ppm; Mn 1 000 ppm; Ni 200 ppm; Pb 100 ppm; Se 20 ppm; Sb 50 ppm; Sn 250 ppm; Zn 1 500 ppm. Any metal that is included as an integral part of the dye molecule (e.g. metal complex dyes, certain reactive dyes, etc.) shall not be considered when assessing compliance with these values, which only relate to impurities. The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance. 18. Impurities in pigments: Insoluble color matter without fibre affinity The levels of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the following: As 50 ppm; Ba 100 ppm, Cd 50 ppm; Cr 100 ppm; Hg 25 ppm; Pb 100 ppm; Se 100 ppm Sb 250 ppm; Zn 1 000 ppm. The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance. 19. Chrome mordant dyeing Chrome mordant dyeing is not allowed. The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 20. Metal complex dyes If metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are used: (a) In case of cellulose dyeing, where metal complex dyes are part of the dye recipe, less than 20% of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to waste water treatment (whether on-site or off-site). In case of all other dyeing processes, where metal complex dyes are part of the dye recipe, less than 7% of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to waste water treatment (whether on-site or off-site). The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni ; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr. (b) The emissions to water after treatment shall not exceed: Cu 75 mg/kg (fibre, yarn or fabric); Cr 50 mg/kg; Ni 75 mg/kg. The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or pr EN 1233 for Cr. 21. Azo dyes Azo dyes shall not be used that may cleave to any one of the following aromatic amines: 4-aminodiphenyl (92-67-1) Benzidine 4-chloro-o-toluidine (95-69-2) 2-naphthylamine (91-59-8) o-amino-azotoluene (97-56-3) 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8) p-chloroaniline (106-47-8) 2,4-diaminoanisol (615-05-4) 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane (101-77-9) 3,3'-dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1) 3,3'-dimethoxybenzidine (119-90-4)

(92-87-5)

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3,3'-dimethylbenzidine (119-93-7) 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane (838-88-0) p-cresidine (120-71-8) 4,4'-methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (101-14-4) 4,4'-oxydianiline (101-80-4) 4,4'-thiodianiline (139-65-1) o-toluidine (95-53-4) 2,4-diaminotoluene (95-80-7) 2,4,5-trimethylaniline (137-17-7) 4-aminoazobenzene (60-09-3) o-anisidine (90-04-0) 2,4-Xylidine 2,6-Xylidine Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following standard shall be used = EN 14 362-1 and 2. (Note: false positives may be possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and confirmation is therefore recommended). 22. Dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (a) The following dyes shall not be used: C.I. Basic Red 9 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. Acid Red 26 C.I. Basic Violet 14 C.I. Disperse Orange 11 C. I. Direct Black 38 C. I. Direct Blue 6 C. I. Direct Red 28 C. I. Disperse Yellow 3 Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes. (b) No use is allowed of dye substances or of dye preparations containing more than 0.1% by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof) : R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Council Directive 67/548/EEC of 27 June 1967 on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions relating to the classification, packaging and labelling of dangerous substances (1), and its subsequent amendments. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes. 23. Potentially sensitising dyes The following dyes shall not be used: C.I. Disperse Blue 3 C.I. 61 505 C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. 62 500

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C.I. Disperse Blue 26 C.I. 63 305 C.I. Disperse Blue 35 C.I. Disperse Blue 102 C.I. Disperse Blue 106 C.I. Disperse Blue 124 C.I. Disperse Brown 1 C.I. Disperse Orange 1 C.I. 11 080 C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. 11 005 C.I. Disperse Orange 37 C.I. Disperse Orange 76 (previously designated Orange 37) C.I. Disperse Red 1 C.I. 11 110 C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. 62 015 C.I. Disperse Red 17 C.I. 11 210 C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. 10 345 C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. 10 375 C.I. Disperse Yellow 39 C.I. Disperse Yellow 49 Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. 24. Halogenated carriers for polyester Halogenated carriers shall not be used. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. 25. Printing (a) Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5% volatile organic compounds such as white spirit (VOCs: any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance. (b) Plastisol-based printing is not allowed. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance. 26. Formaldehyde The amount of free and partly hydrolysable formaldehyde in the final fabric shall not exceed 20 ppm for babies and young children under 3 years old, 30 ppm for products that come into direct contact with the skin, and 75 ppm for all other products. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that formaldehyde containing products have not been applied or provide a test report using the following test method: EN ISO 14184-1. 27. Waste water discharges from wet-processing (a) Waste water from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring sites and flax retting sites) shall, when discharged to surface water after treatment (whether on-site or off-site), have a COD content of less than 20 g/kg, expressed as an annual average.

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Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060, showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. (b) If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface water, it shall also have a pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) and a temperature of less than 40 (unless the temperature of the recei ving water is above this value). C Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 28. Flame retardants In general, flame retardants containing R phrases as listed below shall not be used.: R40, R45, R46, R49,R50, R51, R52, R53, R60, R61, R62, R63, R68 according to the Decision 2002/371/EC as well as, R42 and R 43, according to the Directive 67/548/CEE. Flame retardants for which the assessment under the REACH regulation is not available, shall not be used (see appendix 2 for explanations). Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or comply with the corresponding assessment and verification requirements laid down in Decision 2002/371/EC. 29. Anti felting finishes Halogenated substances or preparations shall only be applied to wool slivers and loose scoured wool. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use (unless used for wool slivers and loose scoured wool). 30. Fabrics Finishes The word finishes covers all physical or chemical treatments giving to the textile fabrics specific properties such as softness, waterproof, easy care No use is allowed of finishing substances or of finishing preparations containing more than 0.1% by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall either provide a declaration that finishes have not been used, or indicate which finishes have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those finishes comply with this criterion. 31. Fillings

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(a) Filling materials consisting of textile fibres shall comply with the textile fibre criteria (Nos 1 - 9) where appropriate. (b) Filling materials shall comply with criterion 11 on Biocidal or biostatic products and the criterion 26 on Formaldehyde. (c) Detergents and other chemicals used for the washing of fillings (down, feathers, natural or synthetic fibres) shall comply with criterion 14 on Auxiliary chemicals and criterion 15 on Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. 32. Coatings, laminates and membranes (a) Products made of polyurethane shall comply with criterion 3(a) regarding organic tin and criterion 3(b) regarding the emission to air of aromatic diisocyanates. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. (b) Products made of polyester shall comply with criterion 8(a) regarding the amount of antimony and criterion 8(b) regarding the emission of VOCs during polymerisation. Assessment and verification: As indicated in the corresponding criteria. (c) Coatings, laminates and membranes shall not be produced using plasticisers or solvents, which are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof): R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect), R45 (may cause cancer), R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage), R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation), R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms), R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms), R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms), R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment), R60 (may impair fertility), R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child), R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility), R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child), R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such plasticizers or solvents. (d) The VOC emissions to air shall not exceed 10 g C/kg. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 33. Energy and water use The applicant is requested, on a voluntary basis shall provide detailed information data on water and energy use for the manufacturing sites involved in spinning, knitting, weaving and wet processing. Assessment and verification: The applicant is requested to provide the abovementioned information. FITNESS FOR USE CRITERIA

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The following criteria apply either to the dyed yarn, the final fabric(s), or the final product, with tests carried out as appropriate.

34. Dimensional changes during washing and drying Information on dimensional changes (%) shall be stated both on the care label and on the packaging and/or other product information if the dimensional changes exceed: The dimensional changes after washing and drying shall not exceed: - 2% for curtains and for furniture fabric that is washable and removable, - -6% +4% for other woven products, - -8% +4% for other knitted products, - -8% +4% for terry towelling. This criterion does not apply to: - fibres or yarn, - products clearly labelled dry clean only or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), - furniture fabrics that are not removable and washable. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standards EN ISO 63 30, ISO 5077 as follows: 3 washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle unless other drying procedures are indicated on the product, at temperatures as marked on the product, wash load (2 or 4 kg) depending on the wash symbol. Should any of the abovementioned limits be exceeded, a copy of the care-label and of the packaging and/or other product information shall be provided. 35. Colour fastness to washing The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 for colour change and at least level 3-4 for staining. This criterion does not apply to products clearly labelled dry clean only or equivalent (insofar as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to non-washable furniture fabrics. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder). 36. Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline) The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (colour change and staining). A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both dark coloured (standard depth > 1/1) and made of regenerated wool or more than 20% silk. This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric). 37. Colour fastness to wet rubbing The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3. A level of 2 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed.

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Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 X12. 38. Colour fastness to dry rubbing The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3-4 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 X12. 39. Colour fastness to light For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 5. For all other products the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 4. A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of more than 20% wool or other keratin fibres, or more than 20% silk, or more than 20% linen or other bast fibres. This requirement does not apply to mattress ticking, mattress protection or underwear. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide test reports using the following standard EN: ISO 105 B02. 40. Information appearing on the eco-label Box 2 of the eco-label shall contain the following expressions: - reduced water pollution, - hazardous substances restricted, - whole production chain covered - cleaner processes and products. Assessment and verification: The applicant shall provide a sample of the product packaging showing the label, together with a declaration of compliance with this criterion.

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2nd Draft References

Roadmap Textiles

1. Danish Import Promotion Programme (DIPP), 2006, Home Textiles. A survey of the market for Home Textiles in Denmark. www.dipp.eu/dox.en/Home.Textile.2006 (05/06/08). 2. European Commission, 1996, The competitiveness of subcontracting in the textile and clothing industry in the European Union, http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/development.htm (06/06/08) 3. Global Standards, undated, Global Organic Textile Standard, http://www.global-standard.org/ (15/4/08) 4. IEFE, 2005, EVER: Evaluation of EMAS and Ecolabel for their Revision, Report 1: Options and recommendations for the revision process, http://ec.europa.eu/environment/emas/pdf/everfinalreport1_en.pdf (18.03.2008). 5. Patodia, B.K, 2006, Textile Exports from India - Emerging Trends, http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa5358/is_200610/ai_n21399962 (06/06/08) 6. Pursuit, undated, Ecolabels FAQ's answered, http://www.pursuit.co.za/archive/augsep03_ecolabels.htm (05/06/08).