Ems-Textile Result Oriented Report en

Europe Intelligent Energy Program EMS – Textile Project
Grand Agreement: IEE/04/113/S07.38648
Promotion of Energy Management Practices in the Textile Industries of

Greece, Portugal, Spain and Bulgaria
Results Oriented Report
Implementation Bodies
SIGMA Consultants (GR)
Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (GR)
CITEVE - Centro Tecnológico Das Indústrias Textil e do Vestuário (PT)
AITEX - Instituto Tecnológico Textil (ES)
Black Sea Regional Energy Centre (BG)
Bulgarian Association of Apparel &Textile Producers & Exporters (BG)
July 2007
Results Oriented Report Page 1 of 57

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1 INTRODUCTION.................................................................................................................... 3
1.1 Summary of the Project..........................................................................................................3
1.2 Work plan and methodology ..................................................................................................4
2 IMPLEMENTATION BODIES ................................................................................................ 7
3 ACHIEVED RESULTS PER WORK PACKAGE................................................................. 11

3.1 Work Package 2 – Energy Management Practises .............................................................11
3.1.1 Energy Management Review...............................................................................................11
Status of the Textile Sector in Greece .................................................................................11
Status of the Textile Sector in Portugal................................................................................12
Status of the Textile Sector in Spain....................................................................................13
Status of the Textile Sector in Bulgaria................................................................................14
Good Practices in the Greek Textile Sector.........................................................................16
Good Practices in the Portuguese Textile Sector ................................................................17
Good Practices in the Spanish Textile Sector......................................................................19
3.1.2 Energy Management Standard............................................................................................21
3.1.3 Energy Management Guidelines .........................................................................................22
3.2 Work Package 3 – Energy Management Tools ...................................................................22
3.2.1 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Greece ...................................................................25
3.2.2 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Portugal ..................................................................26
3.2.3 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Spain ......................................................................28
3.2.4 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Bulgaria ..................................................................29
3.2.5 Energy Efficiency Practices Issue........................................................................................31
3.3 Work Package 4 – Supportive Structures............................................................................31
3.4 Work Package 5 – Energy Management Training ...............................................................33
3.5 Work Package 6 – Pilot Implementations ............................................................................35
3.5.1 Pilot Implementation Audit in Greece ..................................................................................35
3.5.2 Pilot Implementation Audit in Portugal.................................................................................38
3.5.3 Pilot Implementation Audit in Spain .....................................................................................40
3.5.4 Pilot Implementation Audit in Bulgaria .................................................................................41
3.6 Work Package 7 – Project Results Exploitation ..................................................................42
3.7 Work Package 8 – Dissemination Actions ...........................................................................46
4 LESSONS LEARNT FROM EXPERIENCE EXCHANGED AMONG THE PROJECT’S
PARTNERS ......................................................................................................................... 47
4.1 Lessons learnt from Greece.................................................................................................47
4.1.1 Current Status of Energy Management Systems in Greece................................................47
4.1.2 Factors that could promote the development of Energy Management Systems .................48
4.2 Lessons learnt from Portugal ...............................................................................................49
4.3 Lessons learnt from Spain ...................................................................................................50
4.3.1 Current Situation of the Spanish Textile Industry ................................................................50
4.3.2 Actions carried out within EMS - Textile ..............................................................................51
4.4 Lessons learnt from Bulgaria ...............................................................................................53
4.4.1 Level of implementation of Energy management ................................................................53
4.4.2 Reasons for low level of implementation .............................................................................53
4.4.3 Ways and actions for promotion of Energy Management in the industry ............................53
4.4.4 Conclusions..........................................................................................................................54
5 GENERAL CONCLUSIONS ................................................................................................ 56

1 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Summary of the Project
The EMS-TEXTILE project intends to promote and introduce energy management

practices in the textile industries of Greece, Portugal, Spain and Bulgaria. The project is
co-financed 50% by the European Commission via the Europe Intelligent Energy program
according to the EIE/04/113/S07.38648 Grand Agreement. EMS-TEXTILE commenced at
January 2005, lasted 30 months and had a total budget of 650,000 €.
The energy management system that was developed was based on the accumulated
know how and experience from environmental and energy management applications and
was tailored for the specific needs and characteristics of typical Small Medium size
Enterprises (SMEs), which represent the majority of the textile enterprises of the
participating countries. The energy management system is simple to implement and
sustain and it is focused on the application of energy efficiency interventions and
monitoring and not on written procedures that require external certification/verification (like
Environmental Management Systems according the ISO 14001:2004 Standard or the
EMAS EC 761/2001 Regulation).
Within the current project specific energy management practices were gathered in a
Guide focused on the textile sector, including a number of practises and interventions
applicable to more industrial sectors as well. The proposed practises were implemented in
the energy field of various textile companies, aiming though to be adopted from
companies of other sectors as well, via the motivation of the enhancement of efficiency
and competitiveness. This project was mainly focused on the textile industries of the
participating countries but experience and knowledge exchange was conducted with
executives from various sectors and representatives from relevant IEE projects.
State of the art energy management and conservation practices implemented successfully
through out the world were reviewed and assessed according to their results and
applicability for the conditions of the typical textile enterprises of the participating
countries. The requirements of the energy management system standard, the guidelines
for its implementation and the energy conservation practices for the achievement of high
energy efficiency were compiled as well as the promotion and support of the proposed
practices implementation.

An appropriate energy audit methodology for the textile sector was developed and a
supportive Energy Audit Tool was prepared. Special energy consumption data from
various countries from all around the world were collected for the creation of a
Benchmarking Report and the respective Benchmarking Tool both of which can be used
for the energy performance evaluation of the textile companies. Pilot energy audits were
conducted, three in each participating country, according to the EMS-Textile audit
methodology. Energy conservation and efficiency measures were recommended for the
energy intensive textile operations, exploiting all the accumulated know how on EU and
global level. The proposed practices are divided to those about the conservation of heat
and to those about power. Further more Pilot Implementations of the proposed energy
management practices - one at each participating country - were realised, in order to
review the proposed methods and demonstrate their benefits to stakeholders.
For the promotion of the project’s outcomes four Textile Energy Offices (TEO) - Help
Desks were established, and thus the Energy Efficiency Network (EEN) was formed,
consisting of 200 stakeholders, 50 from each participating. The EEN will serve as the
necessary critical mass for the project information dissemination, whereas the operation of
the TEOs, even after the completion of the project, will ensure its continuation and effect.
In general every action and output of the EMS-Textile project was designed and
elaborated or produced considering the respective state of the art and success stories on
global level.
1.2 Work plan and methodology
The project was divided into eight Work Packages which included three or four specific
actions. The division of the project into Work Packages was based on their specific
objectives. Most of the Work Packages were scheduled in a sequential order, because
their outputs were utilised in the next Work Package. Exceptions to this rule were the
Project Management Work Package which was continuous and the Dissemination Actions
which were carefully scheduled in key periods during the project’s elaboration.
More specifically the first Work Package encompassed the Project Management Actions:
the project organisation, the formation of the project teams, the task allocation, the
implementation plan, the monitoring and evaluation system and the submission of all the
project reports.

The objective of the second Work Package was the determination of good energy
management practices based on state of the art know-how and experience. The first step
was the conduction of a review in order to establish a base line for the textile sector and
for the applied and tested energy management practices. The study of the energy
management systems, via the review process, outlined the methodology and purpose of
the Energy Management Standard proposed by the EMS – Textile project. After the
completion of the recommended standard, the development of the Energy Management
Guidelines began in order to facilitate its implementation. The recommended practices
were selected from other relative guides and tailored to the needs and characteristics of
typical industrial SME’s of the participating countries.
Supplementary the third Work Package of the Energy Management Tools provided useful
instruments for the implementation of the Energy Management System, like the Energy
Audit Methodology, the Benchmarking Database and the Energy Efficiency Practices
Issue.
The objective of the fourth Work Package was the support of the promotion of the Energy
Management Practises and Tools in each participating country that would multiply the
dissemination effect and involve the key actors of the project. Textile Energy Offices were
formed in order to provide technical support and perform the dissemination actions in
every participating state and in the European Union. The Energy Efficiency Network that
was developed actively involved the associated parties with the project actions. The
creation of the web page made all the important information of the project available to the
entire world. Informative Leaflets in all languages plus English were produced and
distributed whereas Informative Workshops about the energy management practices and
tools were conducted in the all participating countries.
In the fifth Work Package, the Energy Management Training provided extensive
knowledge to selected key actors that could begin the utilisation of the proposed practices
and tools. During the sixth Work Package of the Pilot Implementations, the proposed
practices and tools were tested and evaluated in real industrial conditions; respective case
studies derived.
In the seventh Work Package about the project exploitation: all the project outcomes and
conclusions were utilised via the creation and dissemination of the Good Practice Guide
CD. A Project Evaluation Report was prepared in order to review and evaluate the

project’s implementation success. Its main objective was the investigation of the degree of
effectiveness of the activities elaborated within EMS - Textile, compared to the targets set,
as described analytically in the approved by the EU co financing proposal. The
sustainability of the Textile Energy Offices is assured via the design and execution of the
respective Action Plan. The compilation of the Action Plan took into account current
market demands for energy related services, according to the experience gained by the
implementation of the EMS-Textile project so far and from past activities of the project’s
partners.
The full exploitation of the project was achieved via the dissemination of all the important
project information in the participating countries and the EU. The wide promotion of the
objectives and outcomes of the current project was ensured via the realization of the
eighth Work Package.

2 IMPLEMENTATION BODIES
SIGMA Consultants Ltd (SIGMA), the coordinator of EMS-

Textile, is an engineering and consultancy firm with a long
standing activity in the Greek and European market. The
company was founded in 1992 in Thessaloniki aiming to support the efforts of private
enterprises, local authorities and sector organizations. SIGMA is active in the fields of:
- Project Planning and Management of National and European funded projects,
- Energy conservation, Renewable Energy Sources and Third Party Financing
Schemes,
- Environmental Management, Pollution Prevention and Waste Management,
- Health and Safety Studies, Emergency Response Plans and Risk Management,
- Applied Research, Technology Transfer and Technical and Economic Studies,
- Creation of Educational Material Using Multimedia and Dissemination Actions.
Sigma has participated in various EU and National projects related to energy and
environment, commissioned by: EC/DG XVII – ALTENER and THERMIE B Program,
EC/DG for Energy and Transport – SAVE 2000 Program, EC/DG Environment – LIFE
Environment Program, and most recently Executive Agency for Competitiveness and
Innovation – Intelligent Energy Program.
The Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (SEPEE)

was founded in 1973; it is a private, non-profit
organization. It represents the knitting and clothing
industries of entire Greece. SEPEE is the principal
association in Greece with the largest membership.
Today SEPEE holds more than 500 members that occupy more than 35,000 employees.
SEPEE is the representative of Greece in EURATEX and IAF, which are the European
and the International federations, for the textile and the clothing industries respectively.
Full member of SEPEE is also the Cypriot Clothing Industry Association. SEPEE provides
a wide range of services to its members like: Promotion of its member's interests in
national and international level, Collection and dissemination of information, Organization
of educational and training seminars, Publications like the tri-monthly journal "Greek
Fashion Magazine", Studies and researches and provision of Statistical data about the
sector.

CITEVE Technological Centre was created in 1989 through the

association of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Enterprises and the
Public Entities that represented the Ministry of Industry. As a private
non-profit organization, it has about 600 associated companies and
more than 1500 customers. CITEVE's main activities are laboratorial
analysis, technology transfer, R&D, energy, environment, training, certification and
standardisation. It has a specialised staff of 140 technicians, covering all business areas
and technical demands of the sector. Technical assistance and consulting are the
privileged activities due the state of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing industry,
characterised by a significant predominance of SME’s. In the field of Quality, CITEVE is a
sector standardisation organism, being the co-ordinator for the Commission of Textiles
Standardisation (CT-4), following the CEN and ISO committees related to textiles.
CITEVE has carried out, on behalf of DGXXIII, the quality Euromanagement survey in
Portuguese textile & clothing SME’s. A similar initiative has been carried out in the field of
environmental management systems. In the field of Technology transfer, it has
participated in different initiatives sponsored by EC, such as: Sprint, Thermie, Tedis, Life
and Innovation. In the field of training, it has participated in different programmes, like
Comett, Force, Eurotecnet, Euroform, Adapt and Leonardo. CITEVE represents Portugal
in several European networks, namely TEXTRANET, FINE, ÖKOTEX.
AITEX Textile Research Centre is a private non-profit making

association established in 1985, composed by Spanish textile and
related-to companies and, whose main objective is to improve the
textile companies’ competitiveness and via modernisation actions
and new technologies that increase products’ quality. AITEX acts on behalf of the textile
and clothing industries in Spain and overseas. Around 700 companies are associated to
the institute and around 33% of the Spanish textile and clothing companies are regular
customers. Among the main activities of the Institute are focused on: Standardization and
Quality, European and I+D Projects, New Technologies and Training. AITEX infrastructure
is especially headed towards the development of R+D+I projects and activities of general
interest for the sector. On the one hand, AITEX takes part in activities dealing with
confidential applied research to improve products, applications and processes. AITEX has
participated in various EU projects.

The Black Sea Regional Energy Centre was established following the
Chalkidiki Ministerial Meeting in May 1994 at the joint initiative of the
European Commission under its SYNERGY programme and eleven
countries of the Black Sea region. Currently, BSREC has 13 member-
countries, i.e. Albania, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece,
Moldova, Romania, Russian Federation, Turkey, Ukraine, the former
Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Serbia & Montenegro. The BSREC
was officially registered in 1995 in Sofia, Bulgaria and it acts according to the Bulgarian
legislation. The BSREC activities are aiming at the harmonization of the energy policy of
the BS region countries with the EU, the facilitation of implementation of long/medium
term integrated strategy of security of supply and sustainable development, the provision
of co-ordination services for international and bilaterally funded projects, addressing the
individual countries and easing the access of foreign and international institutions and
companies to the Black Sea region countries' energy sectors. Apart from its international
activities, the BSREC devotes significant efforts to Bulgarian energy issues and in this role
the Centre is acting as a Bulgarian energy society.
The Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers

and Exporters (AATEB) is a non-profit employers association. It
was founded and registered in the Sofia City Court on 17 March
1999. The Association is an active NGO in the field of economic
development and international co-operation. The mission of
AATEB is to help ensure health and sustained growth of the
Bulgarian apparel and textile industry and to assist its members in raising their
competitiveness. Thus it is full participant in the process of building modern and
competitive industry in Bulgaria. Members of AATEB are export-orientated companies,
organizations and individuals related to the textile production. Currently the Association
has 135 member-companies and 2 collective members. The production of the
Association’s members varies from cotton yarns, knitted and woven fabrics, to ladies and
men's casual and sportswear, industrial wear, knitted apparel, bath towels, luxurious
lingerie, etc. Most of the members are working for the foreign markets - such as Germany,
Greece, France, Italy, United Kingdom, USA, Netherlands, Belgium, Austria, etc. AATEX
has a record of success in assisting development of the textile and apparel sector in
Bulgaria.

Table 1. Contact Persons and Details per Implementation Body
Implementation Body Address Name Telephone N° Fax N° E-mail
2 P.Ioakeim Str. 546 22 Mr. Manoloudis 0030 2310 0030 2310 A.Manoloudis@
SIGMA Consultants
Thessaloniki, Greece Thanasis 242801 286612 sigmaconsultants.gr
Hellenic Fashion 18 A Ermou Str. 546 24 0030 2310 0030 2310

Mr. Aslanidis
aslanidis@greekfashion.gr
Industry Association Thessaloniki, Greece Theofilos 257 075 257 076
Quinta de Maia – Rua

CITEVE Fernando Mesquita 2785, 00351 252 00351 252
Mr. Rosendo
hrosendo@citeve.pt
Technological Centre 4760-034 V.N. Famalicao, Helder 300300 300319
Portugal
AITEX Textile Plaza Emilio Sala 1 0034 96 0034 96

Ms Ferre López
rlopez@aitex.es
Research Centre 3801 Alcoy, Spain Rosa 554 22 00 554 34 94
Bulgarian Association
of Apparel and Textile 2 Omurtag Str. Ms Dankova 00359 2
00359 2 9693161 v_dankova@bgtextiles.org
Producers and 1124 Sofia, Bulgaria Valia 9693181
Exporters
Black Sea Regional 8 Triaditza Str. 00359 2 office@bsrec.bg

Mr. Radulov
00359 2 9806854
Energy Centre 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria Lulin 9806855 radulov@bsrec.bg

3 ACHIEVED RESULTS PER WORK PACKAGE

3.1 Work Package 2 – Energy Management Practises
3.1.1 Energy Management Review

The objective of this work package was the determination of good energy management
practices based on state of the art know-how and experience. The first step was the
conduction of a review in order to establish a base line for the textile sector and for the
applied and tested energy management practices. The Energy Management Review was
conducted as following: firstly SIGMA did a research on energy management practices and
then it forwarded this information to the rest of the partners providing explanations on what
to do. CITEVE, AITEX and BSREC made their research and shared their findings with the
rest of the partners. The review included presentations of the textile sectors of all
participating countries and the most popular energy saving and management practises at
each country.
Status of the Textile Sector in Greece

The textile and clothing industry is perhaps the most important sector in Greece. It has the
biggest share of national exports, more than 20% and occupies about 70.000 employees. It
is a traditional, light manufacturing process which is performed mainly by small companies.
The wide majority of the enterprises have less than 10 people personnel. Most of the
manufacturing facilities are located in Northern Greece and the broad Athens area. The
size of the sector is directly related with the fact that Greece is the biggest cotton producer
in Europe. There are a few relatively large spinning and weaving facilities and a lot of small
dyeing and finishing companies.
The intense global competition led to a 2% annual production decrease the late years and
to the reduction of the occupied personnel. The import value was 2.5 billion Euro
representing 21% of the national imports. About 50% of the production is exported. During
the last two years the export value of the textile industry had shown a significant increase of
23%. 70% of exports are made to the European Union. The biggest national market for
Greek textile products is Germany which accounts for 28% of the exports. Other important
national markets are Italy, Turkey, France, United Kingdom, Netherlands, Cyprus and
Sweden.
Despite the intense competition the textile sector of Greece retains its export nature and
along with the clothing sector have a combined export value of 2 billion euros. However
while the export data look satisfactory; the import data are quite negative. The combined

clothing and textile imports increased 27% while the respective increase of exports was
12%. The worrying fact is that imports are increased from both developed and developing
countries. The import increase from EU states reached 24% while from China 34%. These
figures are quite worrying and combined with the transfer of Greek companies to
neighbouring countries like Bulgaria and FYROM further worsen the picture.
However the importance of the sector for the national economy remains great, since it
employs thousands of employees and represents more than 20% of the national exports.
The late global developments have threatened the position of the entire European textile
industry and combined actions are planned to face this situation. For this reason EURATEX
the European Association of Textile Federations has financed the conduction of a special
market research and has established a High Level Group, which will try to find ways and
measures to face this problem.
Status of the Textile Sector in Portugal

Portugal became a member of the European Union, in 1986. At that time, the Portuguese
textile and clothing industry represented: 17% of the total gross production of the
manufacturing industry, 28% of industrial employment and 32% of total exports. Due to the
challenges, it had to follow a transformation process at all levels of the industry. This
process touched on production, commercialisation, education and training, fashion, design,
quality and service. In this way the industry’s main objective was to keep up with the pace
of companies in other more developed countries.
After 10 years, in 1996, the Portuguese textile and clothing industry had more than 7000
companies, employing 225 thousand workers that represented 21% of this country
industrial employment. Of this number of companies, 66% have been founded for less than
10 years and 5.6% for less than 1 year. As regards this industry workers’ qualification,
indicators showed that they were better qualified, and educated than in all the other
Portuguese activities.
The industry is divided to the following sub sectors: Wool Textile, Knitwear, Household
Textile and Clothing Manufacturers. The textile and clothing industry began its process of
internationalisation at the beginning of the 1960’s. At the beginning of the 1990’s, a severe
crisis began to take place and one of the main causes was the emergence of new low cost
textile producers who benefited from the opening up of the markets.
The answer to this crisis took the form of technological modernization, but also the
development of strategies to differentiate products – marketing, logistics, distribution and
product conception. Portugal has been basing its strategy on this differentiation of products

and on flexibility. Today the textile sector of Portugal represents almost 3% of the national
product, more than 6% of national employment and more than 20% of national exports. For
the last 2 decades, there has been an annual average productivity growth rate of 2.5% in
the clothing sector and 1.8% in the textile sector.
However the development of the industry is subject to strong constraints, such as: The
progressive integration of the textile and clothing business, the market liberalisation, the
entrance of China into the World Trade Organization and the anti trade business practices
used by China and other Asian countries. Markets such as the one in the European Union
are totally open to products coming from any origin. However, the exporting countries do
not comply with the rules, which were established in the Textile and Clothing. The world
trade has certain rules that must be followed by all competitors.
Status of the Textile Sector in Spain
The textile sector holds a significant position within the Spanish industrial structure, as it
employs directly 275,000 people, 10% of industrial employment and contributes 5% to the
Gross National Product. The majority of the companies are small and medium sized
enterprises (SME), as this type of company has a greater flexibility to adapt to evolutions,
which are very often especially due to the phenomenon of fashion.
Evolution by products is very diverse: Exports of fabrics (natural and chemical) are reduced,
basically due to lower world demand and to the decline of average prices. The decline of
European demand causes a limited growth of yarns and fabrics. The highest increases of
exports are in finished garments (knitting and clothing) with 15%. This figure reflects the
foreign expansion of companies with their own distribution networks.
Overall imports grow; several textile products follow an evolution very similar to that of
exports: Material purchases diminish as a consequence of the lower spinning activity, the
abundant offer of Spanish cotton, and the general fall of fibre prices. Yarns and fabrics
reduce their imports due to the decline of internal production and the lower external
pressure caused by the market recovery of bidding countries. Opposed to these facts,
imports of clothing increase. This figure reflects the good working of internal market. The
balance of trade declined, whereas the hedge rate (% Exp./Imp.) reached 73%. According
to products, the trade balance improved in materials and textile manufactures; whereas the
deficit of final product manufactures underwent a significant increase (+24%) and
represented 83% of the overall deficit, opposed 76% of the previous year.
Joining the European Union in 1986 represented the full incorporation of Spanish
companies in the world market of textile and clothing goods. Companies have taken
advantage of this fact and they have constantly increased their presence in foreign markets.

Likewise, in 1999 total exports went over 30% of production. The Spanish textile and
clothing sector offers a wide range of products fulfilling the conditions required by the
international market regarding quality, design, price, and service. Two-thirds of Spanish
exports are aimed at the European Union, although sales in North America, Middle East,
and Latin America are notable. However the last developments in the world textile market
and especially the strengthening of China’s position could not leave the Spanish textile
industry unaffected.
Status of the Textile Sector in Bulgaria
The textile industry is the main and oldest light industry branch in Bulgaria. The beginning
of factory textile manufacturing was laid in the second quarter of the 19th century. During
the 1940-1950s the textile industry became one of the leading sectors in Bulgaria, second
in importance after the food and beverage industry. It keeps this position up till present
days. In 2007 the textile sector encompasses over 176,000 people staff.
It includes the following activities:
- buying up and primary processing of natural textile raw materials;
- cotton-textile
- silk-textile
- wool-textile
- hemp and linen
- knitwear
- unwoven textile
- sewing
The sector includes production of yarns, cloths and products made of these, intended for
clothing, domestic and technical purposes. The sector’s activities are characterized with
significant and quick dividends, both for the sector and for the national economy as a
whole.
Strengths of the Sector
From the study derived the following strengths of the Bulgarian textile sector:
Infrastructure – the production infrastructure built during the planned economy period
is relatively well developed and is typical for industries which have manufacturing
experience and traditions. This infrastructure allows Bulgaria to be a competitive
supplier to international markets.

Quality – The majority of the Bulgarian producers have the capability to manufacture
goods of quality complying with global standards.
The capability of the companies in the sector to produce goods corresponding to the
fashion trends, and meeting consumers’ requirements in terms of price, functionality,
and design provides for the demand for our merchandise at the international and
domestic markets. The merchandise is aimed mostly at the middle-class consumers.
Technologies are being developed for environmentally clean production. Some of
the companies hold the ISO 9000 quality certificate.
Availability of Prime and Raw materials – Bulgaria is also a producer of natural and
chemical raw materials having the required quality. The country’s capacity can meet
a possible future increase in the demand.
Labour Costs – the high qualification and the low labour costs make Bulgaria
competitive at the international markets.
Production Capacity – a large part of the companies have a closed cycle production.
In the textile, knitwear, and the sewing industries technological connections have
been established, which determine covering of the separate production stages.
In the textile industry the technological processes, involving processing in the
different factories, cover one or several stages of the textile manufacturing – primary
processing of natural or synthetic fibres/silks, spinning, weaving, and refinement of
the semi-finished and finished goods.
Weaknesses of the sector

The study revealed the following weaknesses:
Reduced output – the loss of traditional markets and the low solvency of the
domestic market limit the industry output, and thus the equipment utilization ratio
decreases.
Imports of raw materials – some of the basic raw materials are unavailable or scarce
in Bulgaria and have to be imported.
Poor implementation of Environmental Management Systems. Only one company
has introduced a formal environmental management system and has been
registered under ISO 14001 producing cotton yarns. The low interest to such
systems can be attributed to the lack of demand for environmentally friendly goods.
Several textile exporters, however, are considering ISO 14001/EMAS certification.

Marketing – the companies possess insufficient marketing orientation, infrastructure,

skills, experience, and financial resources to operate at a free market conditions.
Some of basic funds in the textile, knitwear, and sewing industries are amortizated
and obsolete.
Need of substantial investments – for renovation and new technological solutions.
Closing Down or Shift in the Activities of the research institutes and R&D
departments in the sector.
High energy intensity and meagre energy management.
Good Practices in the Greek Textile Sector

During the last 10 years significant energy conservation investments have taken place in
the Greek textile industry. The main reason was the exploitation of subsidies around 40%
from the previous Energy Operational Program and the current Competitiveness
Operational Program. Both programs were funded by National and European funds.
Most energy conservation investments were realised in dyeing facilities which had
significant energy saving opportunities. The most common energy conservation measure
was the heat recovery from the bath effluents and the dyeing waste waters. At the finishing
industry heat recovery was focused on the hot air used in the fabric drying process. Another
popular conservation measure was the installation of capacitors for the correction of the
power factor. Improvements in: lighting, insulation, motors’ operation, vapour and hot air
installations were elaborated after the conduction of energy audits and the technical and
economical appraisal of the various interventions.
In the most advanced and integrated energy conservation investments, measuring
equipment was used for the monitoring of the energy consumption. In rare cases these data
were analysed and used for the adoption of corrective and further improvement measures.
The concept of energy management is still not very known in the Greek industry. Energy
management good practices are followed as a part of wider environmental management
standards like EMAS and ISO 14001. However only a few leading powerful companies are
actually implementing these standards. In Greece ISO 14001 is implemented much more
widely than EMAS.
The globalisation of the economy and the dynamic inversion of China in the textile market,
have threatened the existence of many Greek textile companies. In their effort to survive
and face this situation, they do not easily proceed in new investments, even when most
estimates favour them and small payback periods are foreseen. Except in the cases of the

dyeing and finishing facilities the rest textile operations do no consider energy conservation
as a top priority.
On cost – benefit basis the energy conservation potential of most Greek industries is
estimated between 10 and 15%. In some cases it can be as high as 25%. The required
technical know how is available in Greece. In all the completed energy projects, more than
70% of the total contribution in labour, materials and equipment was of Greek origin.
Good Practices in the Portuguese Textile Sector

In Portugal most of energy intensive textile factories work 24 hours per day, 5 days per
week, with an average of 259 days per year. In 2003, the industrial energy consumption
represented 28.5% of the total consumption in Portugal. The textile sector was responsible
for 2.5% of the total consumption, and 8.8% of the industrial energy consumption. At the
Portuguese textile industry, dyeing and finishing sector is the most representative sector not
for the number of industries but also for the energy consumption, in comparison with
spinning and weaving sectors.
Different energy conservation measures are used according to the requirements and
characteristics of each textile production process. Some companies have energy
conservation measures implemented in their installations, which could be implemented in
others companies. Some examples of good practices:
Electrical Energy is used for the motion of the main productive equipment and for the
supporting systems such as lighting, HAVC systems and compressed air. The relevant
energy saving measures can be divided according to their area of implementation:
Motors: Use of variable speed drivers in motors to reduce and control load, turn off
when not in used, power factor correction, optimise the power quality, reduce
harmonics and voltage fluctuations, good maintenance, energy management and
monitoring system.
HVAC Systems: Use variable speed drivers in motors, turn off when not in use,
control of fresh air entrance, automatic control, heat recovery system on the air outlet,
and good maintenance.
Lighting: Use of fluorescents lamps, automatic control of lighting, replacement of old
lamps, use of efficient lamps with electronic ballasts, exploitation of natural lightening,
systematic lights switch off, maintenance and cleaning of light fixtures.
Compressed Air Systems: operation at minimum acceptable pressure, saving the air
exhausts from compressors, use variable speed drivers in motors to reduce and

control load and peaks, use of natural cold air from, good maintenance to reduce the
leaks.
Thermal Energy is used at heat processes mainly in dyeing, drying and finishing
operations. The thermal energy saving measures can be divided again according to their
area of implementation:
General: Thermal insulation and good maintenance of equipments and pipes, thermal
insulation of condensate and oil tanks, installation of cogeneration systems that
produce steam and electricity.
Boilers: Substitution of fuel oil or diesel with natural gas boilers, recovery of the
condensates, combustion control system to regulate the fuel air mixture, good
maintenance and periodic combustion control, recovery heat from exhaust air to pre-
heat the water or the inlet air.
Drying: Installation of direct natural gas burners in dryers and stenters, mechanical
extraction of water from fabric before drying, heat recovery from exhaust air to pre-
heat water or the inlet air equipment, installation of humidity control in the exhaust air
of stenters and dryers.
Dyeing: Use of equipments with low-liquor ratio and heat recovery from hot effluents
to pre-heat the inlet water.
Some energy intensive industries monitor their energy consumptions with electricity
counters for the entire factory or for the more important consumers, and with automatic heat
measuring equipment. This data is later analysed by the operator manager who takes
immediate remedial action or proposes conservation measures to top management.
Considering the two biggest certification bodies of Portugal, the textile companies certified
with ISO 9001:2000 and ISO 14001:2004 are 222 and 24 respectively. Energy and
environmental performance of enterprises is proportional to their competitiveness. As the
power of the companies grow so does the implementation of good environmental and
energy practices. These companies benefit from cost reductions, profile improvement and
from the good relations with the public authorities and the local communities.
In Portugal energy intensive consumers have to accomplish the Regulation for Energy
Consumption Management (RGCE), realize energy audits and implement efficiency
measures. This regulation is for all industries intensive consumers, which:
During the last year energy consumption was higher than 1000 toe (tonne oil
equivalent)/year
All equipments’ nominal consumption of energy are higher than 0,5 toe/hr
At least one equipment’s nominal consumption of energy is higher than 0,3 toe/hr.
All industrial energy intensive consumers have to do an energy audit every five years.
During this period they must monitor and track energy costs and consumptions, and
implement good practices for the reduction of energy consumption.
Good Practices in the Spanish Textile Sector

In Spain energy conservation practices are mostly implemented in dyeing and finishing
companies. The industries that implement these measures are above the average size of
the sector and present high energy consumption. Their cumulative relative share is about
20% of the sector, but the trend is to be increased within the following years in order to
comply with EU environmental requirements, save money and be more competitive.
In order to control the consumption data, companies have normally a file, with the invoices
and receipts of electricity, oil and gas spending. They also control the different counters to
know how many energy they spend each month. The only ones which monitor exhaustively
these data are the companies with cogeneration plants, because they sell the excesses
energy to the electricity industry. Very few companies systematically analyse this data.
The number of companies implementing certified management standard has increased.
The most usual is the ISO 9001 with a presence in more than 30% of the textile industry.
ISO 14001 is not so common, its share is around 7%, but it presents gradual increase.
EMAS regulation is not implemented in any of the Spanish textile companies. However, 5
mills which have implemented the Oeko-Tex 1000 Standard, systematically evaluate the
environmental impact of their activities.
A lot of companies are implementing waste minimization plans. Some examples of the good
practices implemented in the Spanish Textile Industry are: recovery of water proceeding
from their own sewage treatment plants, installation of cogeneration plants, use of natural
gas instead of diesel, exploitation of the residual heat in order to start the water or
machines heating, minimization of electric consumption with movement sensors for turning
off the lights in the weaving rooms, installation of cogeneration facilities, etc.
Good Practices in the Bulgarian Textile Sector

The results from studies have revealed a number of opportunities for achieving energy
savings. Only the technical opportunities for energy saving in the textile industry have been
estimated in the range of 10 - 40%. They could be classified into the following three main
groups:
1. Low-cost projects and projects without investments. These include:

a) Implementation of organizational and technical, as well as management measures,

the most important being:
full loading of the available production capacity
concentrating the manufacturing activities in the specialized departments and units
and separating/insulating the remaining buildings and premises, in order to reduce
the energy costs
recurrent control and preventive maintenance of the energy-intensive machines and
equipment
consuming electricity in the less expensive tariff time zones
improving the thermal insulation of pipelines, valves, substations, boilers, optimizing
the heating operation mode by regulating the supplied heat
improving the energy economy planning, specialization and training of the executive
and management staff of the production companies
continuous optimizing of the target figures for the specific (i.e. per unit production)
consumption of energy carriers
explanatory activities and economic motivation for the staff, aiming at savings of
energy and energy carriers
b) Introduction of information and optimization systems.
c) Observing the textile industry norms and standards, which have been enforced after
harmonizing with the EU ISO and EN requirements. The verified capacity for energy
savings of the aforementioned interventions is 5 -15%.
2. Middle-cost projects (pay-back period 1- 5 years). These include:
d) Modernization of the lighting and air-conditioning and ventilation systems – savings of
about 6% of the total electricity cost.
e) Optimization of the steam and boiler economy – reduction of the energy resources
costs by 3 - 7%.
f) Energy recuperation, new energy sources, introduction of new technologies – savings
of 2 - 3% of the total energy costs.
Total share in the energy savings 10 - 20%.
3. High-cost investment projects (pay-back period over 5 - 10 years).
g) Import of new equipment, technological lines, introduction of new production,
gasification of the sector.
h) Reduction of the energy losses from space heating and air-conditioning of the
production buildings – thermal energy savings up to 30%.
i) Highly automated, unmanned and robotized production/machines, efficient electric

drives (in large quantities – 5,000 - 10,000 motors).
3.1.2 Energy Management Standard

The study of the energy management systems via the review process outlined the
methodology and purpose of the Energy Management Standard proposed by the EMS –
Textile project. At the beginning the standard was drafted by SIGMA and sent for revision to
all partners and for consultation with technical staff of textile companies. After the
consideration of remarks mainly from CITEVE, AITEX and BSREC, the energy
management standard took its present form.
The standard developed within the EMS-Textile project, intends to build on the accumulated
knowledge and complement this spectrum of choices by providing a slightly different
approach. Most of the standards for the development of energy management systems
follow the Plan – Do – Check – Act cycle and ISO 14001:2004.
This standard provides the framework for the development and implementation of an
energy management system that is easy to apply mostly by small companies. It is a
consulting document with recommendations and guidance and no obligatory requirements.
It is not designed as a basis for external verification, but as a supportive tool for SMEs
striving to achieve continual energy performance improvement.
This standard, like EMAS and ISO 14001:2004, is goal oriented. It focuses on the
achievement of high energy performance and in the abatement of unnecessary energy
consumptions. The quality of the energy management derives from the obtained energy
performance results. The driving force for the adoption of measures and practices is the
impact on energy performance. Poor energy results point out weaknesses and shortages in
energy management. Energy management evaluation is based on benchmarking
comparisons.
Enterprises are encouraged to implement energy management practices, to benefit from
the reductions in energy consumption. This is the main reason for its implementation. The
standard’s value as a marketing tool is limited. For this reason it is goal oriented with no
need for external verification. Internal or external audits focus on the acquisition of
appropriate energy consumption data, on the assessment of energy conservation potential,
on the identification of efficiency measures and on the conduction of valid benchmarking
comparisons.

The recommendation of the EMS-Textile project has the same structure with EMAS and
ISO 14001, but it is much easier to adopt and requires minimum documentation. It can be
implemented alone or in combination with the above environmental management systems.
3.1.3 Energy Management Guidelines

After the completion of the recommended standard the development of the Energy
Management Guidelines began in order to facilitate its implementation. The guidelines do
not provide specific step by step instructions for every clause of the standard but highlight
the most important parts of energy management and present respective good practices.
The recommended practices were selected from other relative guides and tailored to the
needs and characteristics of typical industrial SME’s of the participating countries. The
Energy Management Guidelines were based on the findings and conclusions of the review.
The development of the guidelines was made with the following method. Firstly SIGMA
prepared an initial draft and then it forwarded it to the other partners. CITEVE, AITEX and
BSREC studied the draft and made remarks and suggestions on it. SIGMA amended and
finalised the guidelines taking into account the input from all the other partners.
The first section of the Energy Management Guide contains the Energy Management
Standard. The second section contains guidance for its implementation. The guidelines do
not provide specific step by step instructions for every clause of the standard but highlight
the most important parts of energy management and present respective good practices.
These practices were selected from other relative guides and tailored to the needs and
characteristics of Southern European SMEs.
Energy Management has three axes: Information, Involvement and Investment. This guide
deals with the first two; the third has been addressed with another guide for energy
efficiency practices for the textile sector. The presented guidelines are not the only way of
addressing the EMS-Textile Energy Management Standard, but it is a recommended
approach by the EMS-Textile project team.
3.2 Work Package 3 – Energy Management Tools

The development of supportive tools for the implementation of energy management was the
objective of work package 3. Thus the Energy Audit Tool was designed in order to provide
this information after the gathering and analysis of existing energy consumption data from
accounts and meters and corresponding financial data, the examination of the productive
and auxiliary equipment records, the production and energy flows, the conduct of a walk
through audit and the interview of energy related personnel. The entire work can be

performed in three to five days by one or two competent energy auditors, depending on the
size site and the data availability. The tool provides a general indicative approach and can
be modified easily according to the site’s special requirements. It was developed in excel
format in order to facilitate modifications and facilitate calculations. The Audit Tool is divided
into the following Data Sheets:
General Data Productive Equipment
Financial Data Auxiliary Equipment
Consumption Data Building Data
Check Points Management Matrix
Production Flow Audit Conclusions
Energy Flow
The following Table 2 shows the Matrix (included in the Tool) assessing the performance of
the Energy Management System adopted at each company.
Table 2 – Energy Management Matrix

Energy Management Matrix Index
Level Policy Organisation Communication Monitoring Awareness Investment

Top Management Clear delegation of Formal and informal Sets targets, monitors Promotion of the value of Positive discrimination in
commitment to Energy responsibility for energy communication channels consumptions, identifies energy efficiency to all the favour of energy efficiency
Management: Policy, consumption, to the exploited by energy faults, quantifies savings members and in all organisation's
4 Action Plan and Review. members of the manager and staff at all and budget tracking. stakeholders of the investments.
Management Integration. organisation. levels. organisation.
⌧
Formal Energy Energy Manager Implementation Team Monitoring and Targeting Program of staff training, Cursory appraisal of new
Management Policy but accountable for all energy used as main reports based on sub- awareness and regular building, equipment and
without active commitment consumption, communication channel metering but without publicity campaigns. refurbishment
3 from Top Management. representing all users to together with direct efficient reporting to Usual payback criteria opportunities.
Top Management. personal contacts. users. used.
⌧ ⌧
Un-adopted Energy Energy Manager with little Contact of important Monitoring and Targeting Certain budget is Only energy investment
Management Policy set by support and unclear energy users, by reports based on supply allocated to energy with short pay-back
Energy Manager or senior authority, reporting to Top organisation's members and accounting data, management and some periods are planned and
2 Department Manager. Management. lead by senor Department without reporting to awareness and training is realised.
Manager. users. elaborated.
⌧ ⌧
Energy Management, Informal and not Cost reporting to Top Energy Manager compiles Informal and not Only low and no cost
unwritten guidelines, as systematic contacts of the Management based only energy tracking reports systematic contacts used measures taken for
part time responsibility of Energy Manager with only on invoice and accounting only for internal use in the to promote energy energy conservation.
1 someone with limited a few important energy data. technical department. efficiency.
authority and influence. users.
⌧
No explicit Energy No contact with important No established No accounting for energy No promotion of energy No energy conservation
Management Policy, energy users. information system. consumption. efficiency. investments.
Energy Manager, Action
0 Plan and responsibility
delegation.
The applicability of the Energy Audit Tool had to be tested and consulted with its potential
end users. Therefore twelve Pilot Energy Audits were conducted, three in each participating
state for the testing of the tool and for the gathering of first hand energy consumption data.It

must be pointed out that the EMS-Textile Audit Tool was used extensively in relevant
activities of the BESS sister project.
Thus the necessity for the creation of the Benchmarking Information report arose. The
data for this report were derived from research in existing information sources, from past
experience of the project partners and from the elaboration of the Pilot Energy Audits. Many
factors affect special energy consumption of a company, the most important of them are the
specific characteristics of each different product. Therefore the information of the
Benchmarking Report should not be used for direct evaluation assessments, but as an
indicative reference of magnitude order.
The data presented in the following Table were gathered via the pilot energy audits
conducted in each participating country. The data do not represent the entire textile sector
of each country, but only the companies examined. The numbers in the parenthesis present
the level in of the first, second and third company examined in each country respectively.
Table 3 – Pilot energy audits results
Level Policy Organisation Communication Monitoring Awareness Investment
1,7 2,0 1,0 2,0 1,0 2,7

GR
(1-2-2) (2-2-2) (1-1-1) (2-3-1) (1-1-1) (3-3-2)
2,0 2,0 1,0 3,3 1,3 1,7
PT
(2-1-3) (3-2-1) (1-1-1) (4-4-2) (2-1-1) (2-1-2)
2,3 2,7 2,0 2,7 1,7 2,3
ES
(2-4-1) (4-1-3) (2-2-2) (3-2-3) (2-1-2) (3-2-2)
2,3 3,7 2,3 1,7 1,7 1,7
BG
(1-3-3) (4-3-4) (2-2-3) (1-2-2) (1-2-2) (1-2-2)
Average 2,1 2,6 1,6 2,4 1,4 2,1
Further more, in Bulgaria, BSREC realized visits and mini audits to the following textile
enterprises were the heating and illumination conditions were investigated:
“SVILOZA” – Svishtov “MAROLIO” – Sliven
COATS – Sofia “STIL” – Vratza
“MAK” – Gabrovo “SILK” – Svilengrad
“SEVT” – Kazanlak Wool Processing Factory –
“FILTEX” – Kazanlak Parvomay
“BULGARIA” – Kazanlak INKOTEX - Kotel

The general conclusions confirmed the overall assessment that the energy use conditions
have big margins of improvement. In order to start the implementation of Energy
Management Systems first of all the enterprises must install metering systems allowing
breaking down the energy consumption according to processing phases / technologies,
which is an obligatory condition for energy analyses.
Interesting detail is that usually Company Management Officials are more interested in EM
than the energy departments, who in some cases resist against the proposed systematic
approach.
3.2.1 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Greece

Table 4 – Annual Average Energy Consumptions in kWh
Process Production Electricity Thermal Total

Dyeing & Finishing 3,500 ton 3,000,000 30,000,000 33,000,000
Spinning 8,500 ton 42,500,000 0 42,500,000
Denim Fabric 3,500 ton 25,000,000 65,000,000 90,000,000
Table 5 – Annual Average Specific Energy Consumptions in kWh/ton

Dyeing & Finishing 3,500 ton 857 8,571 9,429
Spinning 8,500 ton 5,000 0 5,000
Denim Fabric 3,500 ton 7,143 18,571 25,714
1. Dyeing and finishing of fabric: Wet batch processing under pressure with jet
machines, modern technology and equipment, energy conservation measures
implemented.
2. Spinning: Indicative data from state of the art production technology where energy
conservation measures and monitoring techniques are implemented.
3. Denim Fabric production: Dyeing 50% of cotton yarn => Weaving 50% dyed cotton
yarn with 50% not dyed cotton yarn => denim fabric finishing. Modern technology with
no energy conservation measures implemented. (Approximately 200 gr/m2 denim fabric
=> 3,500 ton = 700,000 m2).

3.2.2 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Portugal

In 2003, the industrial energy consumption represented 28,5% of the total consumption in
Portugal, making 5426445 toes. The textile sector was responsible for 2,5% of the total
consumption, and 8,8% of the industrial energy consumption.
Figure 1 – % of Energy Consumption in the Portuguese Textile Industry (1993-2003)
10,0%
9,0%
8,0%
7,0%
6,0%
5,0%
4,0%
3,0%
2,0%
1,0%
0,0%
1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003
The Portuguese energy system depends too much from one single source: oil. Since some
years, natural gas has occupied a very important place, in many cases substituting oil,
making the equipment more efficient in terms of energy consumption and environmental
friendliness. Concerning electrical energy the companies can choose their supplier, so the
prices become more competitive which makes the final product also more competitive. In
general, energy in the textile industry is mostly used in the forms of: electricity, as a
common power source for machinery, cooling and temperature control systems, lighting,
office equipment, etc.; LPG, Fuel-oil and natural gas for steam generators, for thermal-oil
boilers and for burners or dryers to heat directly the air. There are some industries, which
buy steam and electricity to an associated cogeneration facility. Others industries with
cogeneration systems, consume the steam and sale the electricity.

Figure 3 – Energy Consumption in Portuguese Textile Industry (2003)
160 000
140 000
120 000
Energy Consumptions (toe)
100 000
80 000
60 000
40 000
20 000
0
LPG Gasoline Diesel Fuel Lubrificant Natural Gas Electricity Heat Vegetal
Firewoods
and Residues

Yarn dyeing 744.87 ton 1,161,215 5,104,364 6,265,580
Knit dyeing 2,048.29 ton 1,901,742 15,647,287 17,549,030
Knit finishing 3,221.49 ton 1,683,746 7,909,395 9,593,141
Printing 433.29 ton 285,658 981,749 1,267,408
Fabric dyeing 2,179.36 ton 1,001,413 11,073,343 12,074,757
Fabric finishing 4,116.78 ton 3,049,835 20,349,661 23,399,497

Yarn dyeing 744.87 ton 1,559 6,853 8,412
Knit dyeing 2,048.29 ton 928 7,639 8,567
Knit finishing 3,221.49 ton 523 2,455 2,978
Printing 433.29 ton 659 2,266 2,925
Fabric dyeing 2,179.36 ton 460 5,081 5,541
Fabric finishing 4,116.78 ton 741 4,943 5,684

Table 8 – Total Energy Annual Cost for Textiles Sectors (2003)
Energy annual cost (€) Energy annual Specific Energy

(Electricity + Fuel + Gas) cost/sales (%) Consumption
Spinning 794277 5,3 0,17 €/kg
Weaving 367268 4,0 0,16 €/kg
Yarn 0,26 €/kg
Dyeing Fabric 690900 7,1 0,20 €/kg
Knit 0,29 €/kg
Finishing 594875 8,5 0,09 €/m2
3.2.3 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Spain


Spinning & Finishing 2,213 ton 5,259,101 9,414,060 14,673,161

Dyeing & Finishing 8,051 ton 343 763 1,106
Dyeing & Finishing 7,653 ton 684 1,826 2,510
Spinning & Finishing 2,213 ton 2,376 4,253 6,629
1. Dyeing and finishing of home textiles: Wet batch processing under pressure with
jet machines, modern technology and equipment, energy conservation measures
implemented.
2. Dyeing, printing and finishing of upholstery fashion and home textiles: Various
dyeing and finishing processes according to the various technical requirements and
specifications of different products.
3. Spinning, printing and finishing of blankets and bed covers: Extensive leak
deduction programs are implemented for air, steam and water. Considerable savings
in electricity consumption can be achieved via the installation of VSD motors and the
use of 3-phace AC current.

Table 11 – Benchmarks for Specific Energy Consumptions in kWh/ton

Spinning 300 – 3,000 3,600 0 3,600
Weaving 500 – 1,500 2,500 300 2,800
Finishing 7,000 – 10,000 400 1,900 2,300
3.2.4 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Bulgaria

Fabric Production 2,400 ton 13,400,000 34,400,000 47,800,000
Various Textile 1,200 ton 3,000,000 3,200,000 6,200,000
Wool Scouring 1,302 ton 437,400 11,190,000 11,627,400

Fabric Production 2,400 ton 5,583 14,333 19,917
Various Textile 1,200 ton 2,500 2,667 5,167
Wool Scouring 1302 ton 336 8,594 8,930
1. Fabric Production: Vertical process, spinning, weaving and fabric finishing. The main
production process includes degreasing, drying, steaming, spinning, weaving and
finishing. Factory operation around 65% of total capacity.
2. Various Textile Products: Garment accessories 35%, Furniture Fabrics 20%,

Textile Filters 10%, Geo-textile materials 8%, Floor textile materials 5% and other textile
materials 22%. The plant operates two shifts, five days per week, 60 to 65% of its full
capacity.
3. Wool Scouring: The scouring of raw wool is the plant’s main activity. The plant
operates two shifts five days per week and around 60% of its full capacity. Energy
conservation measures are implemented under the supervision of appointed energy
manager. The plant serves as a model for similar companies at national scale.
The rational use of energy is of crucial importance for the competitiveness of the Bulgarian
textile industry – one of the basic industry branches of the country. The investigations that
took place within EMS-Textile, revealed very high energy losses especially thermal losses.
An example of the rather high expenses for energy carriers in Bulgaria is the following
comparative data (in the table below) from observations made in the finishing-dying
departments of textile companies.

Table 14 – Comparison of energy intensity in textile industry in Bulgaria and the World
No. Energy Unit In the world In Bulgaria

1 Electricity for yarns kWh/t 1200 1600
Electricity for cloths kWh/m² 150 ÷ 200 265
2 Steam t/1000m² 1.3 2.1
In comparison with the world practice, the specific energy consumption in Bulgaria is
1.3÷1.8 times higher for cloth finishing and dying, and 1.35 times higher for yarn dying.
Finishing in textile companies is the major energy consuming process – 75% of the steam
and 25% of the electricity in textile industry are used for the textile-chemical or finishing
processes. The energy costs for this part of textile manufacturing processes are 14% of the
total costs of a company, while a total of 30% is spent on raw materials, dyes, and
chemicals. The reasons for this disappointing situation are various: inefficient building
constructions, obsolete technology, incompletely or irrationally used production capacity,
etc. These facts unambiguously indicate the importance of energy management in order to
mitigate the negative effect of the high specific energy consumption on the competitiveness
of Bulgarian textile production, as well as the reduced possibilities for its realization.
Based on the relative energy data from all patrners, a simplified Benchmarking Tool was
developed in order to allow textile companies to asses their energy performance in general
terms. The Tool was included in the Good Practise Guide CD. Its interface is shown below.
Figure 4 – Benchmarking Tool

3.2.5 Energy Efficiency Practices Issue
Finally the Energy Efficiency Practices Issue was compiled, including energy
conservation measures for the textile processes. The project coordinator initially assigned
different groups of energy conservation measures to be separately developed by SIGMA,
CITEVE, AITEX and BSREC. The results were gathered by SIGMA; the respective draft
issue was compiled and sent for consultation to all partners before receiving its final form.
The practises presented at this issue were divided in to two main categories the ones
aiming to the conservation of heat and to the others aiming to the conservation of power.
The techniques for heating energy conservation are divided into the following chapters:
Heat recovery in dyeing and finishing processes, Types of Heat Exchangers, Heat
Distribution, Boilers and Burners, Cogeneration, Renewable Energy Sources, Various
Fuels. The power saving measures, included in the Guidebook, refer to the following
categories: Motors and Pumps, Variable Speed Drives, Pump Selection, Compressed Air,
HVAC Systems, Lighting, Electric Installation. The energy efficiency guide in combination
with the energy audit tool the energy management guidelines and the supportive
information of the www.ems-textile.net provide a sound basis for the improvement of energy
performance at industries and not only for the textile sector.
3.3 Work Package 4 – Supportive Structures

The objective of the fourth work package was the support of the promotion of the Energy
Management Practises and Tools, recommended by the project. Within this framework
four Textile Energy Offices (TEOs) - Help Desks, one at each were established during
January 2006. SIGMA is responsible for the Greek office, BSREC for the Bulgarian, AITEX
for the Spanish and CITEVE for the Portuguese.
Their mission is the dissemination of the energy efficiency good practices, the energy
management principles and the monitoring and targeting actions to the associated bodies
and enterprises. They undertake the task of disseminating all the project deliverables and
provide technical support to textile industries interested in implementing the proposed
practices. Furthermore they will help companies financing energy investments by informing
them about current national or European funding opportunities.
Their activities are co-ordinated by the Steering Committee and directed by the leader of
their National Project Team. Initially they were staffed by both technical and administrative

personnel in order to be able to offer high level integrated services. The TEOs provide
technical support and consultations to textile industries, including:
Energy audits and diagnostics
Energy consumption rationalization plan
Energy Management Consulting
Energy Installation Engineering
Technical assistance in energy area
Training in energy area
These offices operate as sustainable business units after the end of the project i.e. from
July 2007. To do so, their services and requirements in personnel, infrastructure and
equipment should be carefully planed according to related revenues and expenses. Thus a
detailed Action Plan was prepared, providing guidance for the management of the TEOs in
a sustainable way. The compilation of the guide took into account current market demand
for energy related services according to the experience gained by the implementation of the
EMS-Textile project so far and from past activities of the project partners. Many of the
services and considerations described in the Action Plan have already been implemented
successfully.
In the beginning of 2006 the Energy Efficiency Network (EEN) was formed, consisting of
200 textile industry executives and other stakeholders (energy consultants, technical
scientists, and engineers, representatives of authorities and educational institutions), 50
from each participating country. In Spain and Portugal AITEX and CITEVE formed the
network, in Greece and Bulgaria it was formed in cooperation of the two bodies, but the role
of the two associations SEPEE and AATEB was prominent. The members of the EEN are
co-ordinated by the relevant Textile Energy Offices. Their suggestions were taken into
consideration during the project’s execution. Furthermore a large part of the Project
Evaluation was based on their views.
The TEO’s website www.ems-textile.net is in operation since February 2006. It contains
all the important project information, news, deliverables, contact details, links, etc. It is
updated regularly in order to present all the project’s deliverables. It was created under the
supervision of SIGMA and all partners provided input especially in their national languages,
since the site is multilingual providing information in English, Greek, Portuguese, Spanish
and Bulgarian.

Informative Leaflets in all languages plus English were produced and distributed.
Informative Workshops were conducted in all participating countries. The Energy
Management Practices and the activities of the EMS-Textile project were the main issues
discussed at the workshops. Two presentations one about Energy Management and one
about the EMS-Textile project were used in all workshops. In Greece technical input was
provided by SIGMA, while the organisation of the workshop was made by SEPEE. In
Bulgaria Energy Management Practices were presented in five cities covering the entire
country, in Vratza, Russe, Varna, Burgas, Stara Zagora during January 2006, in Sofia in
February 2006 and in Pleven in April 2006. All presentations were made by BSREC with
the support of the Bulgarian Ministry of Development and of AATEB. In Portugal the
workshop was planned and elaborated by CITEVE. In Spain it was conducted solely by
AITEX.
3.4 Work Package 5 – Energy Management Training

The objective of work package 5 was the provision of energy management and energy
efficiency training to technical professionals that are associated with the textile sector. The
Energy Management Manual which served as the main training material of the seminars
was compiled in English by SIGMA after consultation with all partners. It was translated in
all the languages of the participants: Greek by SIGMA and SEPEE, Portuguese by CITEVE,
Spanish by AITEX and Bulgarian by BSREC. It contains extensive references of good
energy management practices and conservation measures.
The training seminars in Greece took place between the 11th and 12th of December 2006,
and were organized by SEPEE, with technical input and trainers provided by SIGMA
Consultants. The seminars took place at Thessaloniki at the premises of the Institution of
Education and Lifelong Learning ‘’Endysi’’, according to the following program:
Section 1: 11th of December 2006 from 17:00 to 21:00 hours; Subject: EMS-Textile
Project presentation. Energy Management: Introduction to Energy Management,
Elements of Energy Management, Energy Policy and Energy Targets, Energy
Management Measures, Monitoring and Targeting, Energy Management Review.
Trainer: Ioannis Ioannidis
Section 2: 12th of December 2006 from 17:00 to 21:00 hours; Subject: Energy
Conservation at the Textile Sector: Heat Recovery in Dyeing and Finishing, Energy
Savings in Heat Distribution Network, Efficient Operation of Boilers and Burners,

Energy Conservation in Motors and Pumps, Power Factor and Harmonic Distortion,
Funding Opportunities for Energy Investments. Trainer: Thanasis Manoloudis
Number of trainees that participated in the seminars: 20.
The training seminars organized in Portugal were divided in 3 actions on Energy

Management Systems (“Sistema de Gestão de Energia”) within the EMS – Textile training
requirements. The following three (3) actions took place:
I. 1st action, in Citeve Famalicão facilities:
- 25/09/2006; Subject: Energy Management; Trainer: Eugénia Coelho,
- 27/09/2006; Subject – Energy Conservation; Trainer: Natacha Cardoso.
Number of trainees participated: 12.
II. 2nd action, in Citeve Covilhã facilities:

- 03/10/2006; Subject – Energy Management; Trainer: Eugénia Coelho.
Number of participants: 15.
III. 3rd action, in Citeve Famalicão facilities:

- 17/10/2006; Subject – Energy Management; Trainer: Eugénia Coelho,
- 18/10/2006; Subject – Energy Conservation; Trainer: Eugénia Coelho.
Number of participants: 15.
The energy management training in Spain took place in four days, on 11, 13, 18 and 20 of
December 2006. During the first day the concepts of energy management, energy policy,
energy audit and action planning were discussed. The second day was dedicated to
internal structure and responsibilities assignment. The third day focused on the energy
monitoring techniques and the last day on the review of the energy management system.
The number of trainees was twenty one; some of them were from AITEX, while most of
them were from textile companies. The entire training was based on the Energy
Management Manual. The trainers of the seminars were José Gisbert, Ascensio Asensio
and Ignacio Corbí, engineers and technicians specialised in textile processes.
Bulgaria: The following training materials were elaborated within the frame of the project –
Energy Management Guidelines, Energy Management manual, set of lectures of Prof.
Kaloyanov “The Fundamentals of Energy Management”, and Prof. Vassilev “European
Norms and Energy Efficiency of the Lighting in Industry”, Energy Management Tool. The
aforementioned material was disseminated via the Bulgarian TEO. BSREC and AATEB

organised two training courses in Bulgaria. The first was held in July 2006 consisting of 61
teaching hours’ lectures and 14 teaching hour’s exercises and the trainees had to pass a
concluding test. The scope of the course included: specific regulatory framework
requirements, the basic principles of energy exchange in industrial sites, energy efficiency
audit techniques, methods for identification and assessment of the energy performance,
specific measures for reduction of energy consumption and energy monitoring techniques.
The second one was short intensive and took place on 15 December 2006 at INTERPRED
premises. The main instructors in both seminars were Assoc. Prof. Dr. Lulin Radulov,
director of BSREC and Assoc. Prof. Dr. Nikola Kaloyanov from the Technical University of
Sofia. The trainees were from Energy Service Companies, municipal energy departments,
enterprises energy department and postgraduate students.
The trainees usually have a good background in energy problems and the training courses
provide them with a systematic approach to energy management. It will be very useful
however if the fundamentals of Energy Management are included in the University
Programmes. BSREC has undertaken the first steps to this direction in close cooperation
with the Technical University of Sofia.
3.5 Work Package 6 – Pilot Implementations

The objective of the current Work Package was the realization of Pilot implementations of
the proposed energy management practices in all participating countries, in order to review
the proposed methods and demonstrate their benefits to stakeholders. The
implementations commenced in July 2006 and were completed at the end of the year.
3.5.1 Pilot Implementation Audit in Greece

In Greece the pilot implementation took place at the facilities of VARVARESSOS SA, a
modern spinning mill unit, with automated production that uses solely electric power for its
operation. The enterprise implemented environmental management standard ISO
14001:2004 that included procedures related to energy management. However the pilot
implementation completed the energy management framework and improved energy
consumption monitoring and process understanding and control. In general the company’s
average energy management performance was 2 out of 4 before the pilot implementation.
In order to improve this situation the following steps were followed:

1. Formal energy policy was adopted by management, which stated its clear commitment
to the implementation of specific energy conservation measures for the increase of
energy performance.
2. Clear energy management duties were delegated to the Environmental Manager and to
other company’s staff that affects energy consumption significantly.
3. The announcement of energy consumption results to machine operators, with the use
of graphs every month was introduced. Six month reports were forwarded via e-mail, to
company’s executives with comparative data from the previous period.
4. Energy monitoring was intensified and new more accurate specific energy consumption
indicators were introduced. Instead of monitoring energy per ton of product, energy
was monitored per m of product, thus providing more accurate estimates and
conclusions.
5. Energy conservation and management issues were included at the company’s training
program. Personnel was taught why and how to save energy in everyday operations.
6. Energy performance criteria were adopted in the procurement of all kind of equipment
and in the hiring of external services.
By implementing the above measures, the company raised its energy management
performance to maximum in all significant parameters, thus achieving an average
performance of 4 out of 4.
One important benefit from the pilot implementation was the adoption of new more accurate
energy consumption indicators. Specific energy consumption used to be monitored in
kWh/kg of produced yarn, while the monitoring in kWh/m of yarn proved to be 12% more
accurate. At the next graph differences between respective differences between energy
consumption estimates and true values are presented. The use of indicators based on (m)
of produced yarn allows the implementation of tighter control limits that lead to more
accurate and prompt response.

Control Chart pe r kg & pe r m of Fibe r
250,000
200,000
150,000
100,000
50,000
0
Dec-05 Feb-06 Mar-06 May-06 Jul-06 Aug-06 Oct-06 Nov-06
-50,000
-100,000
-150,000
However the use of both indicators shows that during January, September and October
significant deviations from the estimated values appear, this means that energy
consumption during these months should be examined further. Despite the deviations from
the linear estimate of the specific energy consumption in relation with (m) of the yarn
produced, it is clear that significant economies of scale exist. The next graph provides
respective picture.
SEC in kwh/m (vs) m of Produced Yarn
0.106
0.104
0.102
y = -5E-10x + 0.1126
R2 = 0.3102
0.100
0.098
0.096
0.094
15,000,000 20,000,000 25,000,000 30,000,000 35,000,000
Specific energy consumption at VARVARESSOS S.A. varied between 0.095 and 0.105
kWh/m of yarn and presented clear economies of scale. Average specific energy
consumption is 0.10 kWh/m and the standard deviation around 0.003, about 3% of the

average. In general the overall energy performance is good but there is always potential for
improvement.
3.5.2 Pilot Implementation Audit in Portugal

CITEVE started the pilot implementation in the middle of July 2006 in the company,
Tinturaria e Acabamentos de Tecidos Vale de Tábuas, Lda (short name: Vale de Tábuas).
This company has the following sections: fabric dyeing, finishing and printing and yarn
dyeing. The range of products is cotton and cotton blended yarn dyed, cotton and cotton
blended fabric. The objective of the implementation was in order to review the proposed
methods and demonstrate their benefits to the stakeholders, about the deliverables held
under the EMS-Textile.
The actions that took place within the pilot implementation were:
• Initial Energy Audit, including the Energy Management Matrix;
• Check up off all energy legislation applicable to the company. CITEVE and Vale de
Tábuas defined a search methodology and created a file to register the future
legislation;
• Inquiry to all the company employees, which aimed to know if the employees were
sensitized with energy losses in the company;
• Setting up an action plan and energy policy.
The energy audit identified a current energy consumption pattern, energy management
status, compliance with energy legislation and personnel sensitization to energy issues.
Energetic representativeness by section
Fabric finis hing
Fabric dyeing
Yarn dyeing
Fabric printing
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% 120%

Electric Energy Natural gas
The energy rationalization plan included many measures, among them the minimization of
compressed air leaks, the optimization of energy monitoring by the installation of special

measuring devices, the repair of old boilers and economizers, the applicability check of the
electricity provision contract, the reactive power minimization, the insulation of pipes and
the legislation compliance check. The implementation of the energy management practices
led to an overall energy conservation of about 5%. A Case Study about the pilot
implementation was prepared and the mains conclusions were:
- Reduction of energy consumption and costs;
- Development of energy management tools;
- Work methodologies creation, in order to contribute to energy consumptions
rationalization;
- Knowledge acquirement, in order to be independent from external energy consultants;
- Mindset changing’s;
- Workers involvement in the energy efficiency;
- Centralize information regarding data treatment and monitoring;
- Creation of new performance indicators.
The elements that contributed to the success of the energy management system
implementation in Vale de Tábuas were:
- Company’s interest;
- Availability, collaboration and dedication of company’s workforce;
- Positive attitude of the company’s team in this entire process, as well as in the data
availability which allowed the system implementation;
- Active involvement of CITEVE’s specialists, which allowed the know-how transfer and
the implementation of energy management tools.
In general the energy management system implementation allowed Vale de Tábuas to

increase its positioning in the Energy Management Matrix to level 3, according to the
Energy Management Matrix, as presented at the following graph.
Energy Performance
Before Project After Project

4 4
3 3 Vale de Tábuas
2 2
Vale de Tábuas
1 1
0 0

3.5.3 Pilot Implementation Audit in Spain

In Spain the pilot implementation took place at Textiles Mora SLA, company that produces
household linen, mainly sheets and blankets and sells them in over 60 countries around the
world. The company is organised according to the ISO 9001:2000 quality standard and its
products are certified with Eko-tex 100 environmental label.
Within the pilot implementation, an energy conservation action plan was realized, leading to
the following interventions:
- Introduction of control systems for non desired electric consumption: Excess of power,
reactive and electricity consumption in non productive hours.
- External systems for analysis of leakages and measurements of energy efficiency; water
and steam leakages internal control system. Currently savings on air leakages were
estimated to be 30.000 €/year.
- Replacing cc engines by asynchronous engines with variable speed drives.
- Distribution of three-phase 380 instead of 220 in oldest facilities.
However the most important energy investment implemented at the factory was the
installation of vacuum tube solar collectors, aiming to the minimisation of the energy
dependence from Natural Gas of Textiles Mora S.A.L. Vacuum tube solar collectors were
installed, due to the fact they are ideal for use in the temperature range 60º to 90º C, as
without concentration they are the only type that can reach these temperatures and also
offer the best quality-efficiency-price ratio. The following Table 15 presents the amount of
thermal energy produced monthly by the solar collectors in comparison to the actual needs
of the industrial processes.
Table 15 –Thermal energy produced compared to the thermal needs of Textiles Mora SLA
Energy Required Energy Produced Solar Coverage

Month
kWh kWh Mcal/day (%)
January 729,963 475,615 13200.94 65.2
February 650,531 488,653 15015.97 75.1
March 710,498 575,621 15976.64 81.0
April 678,160 542,528 15560.09 80.0
May 691,033 545,511 15140.94 78.9
June 659,323 524,297 15037.19 79.5
July 671,568 568,735 15785.53 84.7
August 681,301 576,261 15994.42 84.6

September 668,742 565,110 16207.73 84.5

October 700,766 482,006 13378.31 68.8
November 687,579 500,767 14362.34 72.8
December 720,231 448,183 12439.54 62.2
Total Annual 8,249,697 6,293,287 178099.65 76.3
This measure decreased the annual consumption of Natural Gas by 75%. The realization of
the investment was followed by a thorough energy monitoring system and the appointment
of an energy manager.
3.5.4 Pilot Implementation Audit in Bulgaria

In Bulgaria the pilot implementation took place at INKOTEX JSC - a spinning and weaving
facility with most of its equipment dated around 1990.
The energy audit showed that the unit presented high energy consumption that was not
related to production and in general poor control and efficiency of its operations. The
specific energy consumption of the unit was about 25% higher than the respective
consumptions of Varvaressos SA in Greece.
The type of energy mainly used was electricity. For the level of production during the last
two years the annual energy consumption varied from 120 000 to 150 000 kWh. Due to the
fact that the production consists of different types of yarns and textile materials, the specific
energy consumption has been determined, as follows:
Yarns – between 0,1165 kWh/m to 0,17 kWh/m (5 120 kWh/ton to 7 400 kWh/ton)
Textile material – between 0,535 kWh/m to 2,31 kWh/m.
The need for energy use rationalization was large and therefore the restructuring of
production departments, the adoption of energy policy, the installation of energy monitoring
equipment, the implementation of energy conservation training and the procurement of
energy efficient equipment were decided.
In order to improve the existing situation, the following measures had to be applied:
A plan for restructuring of the departments has been developed. A reduction of the
production units in compliance with the real production has been proposed.
Energy policy has been developed, which stated clear commitment to the
implementation of specific energy conservation measures for the increase of energy
performance.

Energy monitoring is intended and new measuring devices are to be installed after the
reconstruction. In relation with this, specific criteria for benchmarking are to be
developed in compliance with the variety of the production.
Training on energy conservation and management issues is to be conducted by the
end of June 2007.
The energy performance criteria that have been developed will be applied in the
coming procurement of equipment for the restructuring.
The implementation of these measures led to an energy conservation of about 14%.
3.6 Work Package 7 – Project Results Exploitation

Work package 7 was elaborated for the exploitation of the project’s results. The conclusions
from the experience exchange between project partners and the members of the Energy
Efficiency Network (EEN) were gathered in the respective Experience Exchange
Conclusions Report (Deliverable D.7.1). The main conclusions of the aforementioned
report are presented at Chapter 4 of the current report.
All the project’s outputs and deliverables were used for the creation of the Good Practice
Guide CD. The CD was prepared during May 2007 and was distributed to members of the
EEN, interested parties and stakeholders and to the EACI. The distribution will continue
after the projects completion, via the operation of the TEOs.
The evaluation of the project’s actions and thus the investigation of the degree of
effectiveness of the activities elaborated within EMS - Textile, compared to the targets set,
was realised via the use of the following two tools:
1. A comprehensive evaluation questionnaire, which was designed after the completion of

the dissemination activities of EMS - Textile. Via the questionnaire the outcomes of the
project were evaluated mainly from the enterprises and institutions of the textile sector,
members of the Energy Efficiency Network.
2. The Project’s Monitoring and Evaluation System, which was prepared with the use of
Microsoft Excel® software, at the beginning of the project and constituted, throughout
it’s elaboration, the tool for monitoring the progress of the each Work Package and it’s
deliverables.
The number of answered questionnaires that were collected was 173. This number
exceeded the objective of answers that had been placed by the beginning of the project
(160). The results of the completed questionnaires are presented in the following Table 16.

Table 2. Analysis of the Questionnaire’s answers (all partners)
Answers
Question Consid Not Don’t
A lot Little
erably at all know
1. How important is energy conservation to your
103 56 10 1 3
company?
2. How much do you think that energy
management can contribute to energy 75 91 3 0 3
efficiency?
3. How useful do you find actions for the
56 98 16 1 2
promotion of energy management?
4. How useful is the publication of articles for
40 59 57 6 11
the promotion of energy management?
5. How useful is network cooperation to the
42 66 31 3 31
promotion of energy efficiency?
6. How useful is the publication of leaflets and
42 75 39 6 11
of good practice guides?
7. How important is website creation for the
55 101 16 0 1
information of interested parties?
8. How useful are workshops and seminars to

74 76 14 1 8
the promotion of energy management?
9. How useful is the operation of a help-line

45 74 21 15 17
desk to the promotion of energy management?
10. How useful is the elaboration of pilot energy

83 71 6 1 10
management implementations?
11. What do you think about the quality of EMS-
60 79 16 0 15
Textile publications?
12. Do you consider the elaboration of the EMS-
42 69 7 1 48
Textile seminar successful?
13. How successful do you consider the EMS-

42 98 9 0 20
Textile informative activities in general?
14. Are you interested in the implementation of

76 66 8 8 7
energy management in your company?

From the analysis of the answers of the EMS – Textile’s questionnaires derived the
following conclusions:
1. Energy conservation is regarded a How important is energy conservation to your company?
very significant factor in the A lot

Considerably
operation of the contemporary A little
59%
Not at all
enterprises. 91% of the questioned Don’t know
regard energy efficiency important

32%
(59%: A lot, 32%: Considerably). 2% 6%
1%
2. A very high percentage of the questioned correlate energy management with energy
efficiency. Taken into consideration that Energy Management Systems (EMS) are not
widely know, this high percentage is indicative of the promotion of the concept and
the positive effects of EMS via the implementation of EMS – Textile.
3. Within the current 5. How useful is network cooperation to the promotion of

energy efficiency?
project the Energy
Efficiency Network
was established 38% A lot
Considerably
consisting of key A little
24%
Not at all
actors from the Don’t know
18%
textile industry and 18%
relative sectors.
2%
The network was
expanded to all the participating countries and remains the critical mass for the
project’s information dissemination. 62% of the interviewed seem to recognise the
significant role of setting up networks for promoting energy efficiency and
consequently energy management systems and for their advertising. Conversely,
18% are unaware of the influence a network may have on this type of advertising and
publicity for energy efficiency.
4. Another deliverable developed within EMS – Textile was the operation of the Textile
Energy Offices. The positive role of their operation was recognized as 69% of the
questioned consider useful the operation of help – line desks promoting energy

management and practices at textile industries and information on the exploitation of

related funding opportunities.
9. How useful is the operation of a help-line desk to the

promotion of energy management?
43%
A lot
Considerably
26% A little
Not at all
Don’t know
12%
9%
10%
5. 89% of the companies interviewed consider that the elaboration of pilot energy
management implementations contribute to the promotion of such systems in the
textile industry. It is obvious that the results of the four pilot implementations that took
place at Greece, Spain, Portugal and Bulgaria, contributed to their acceptance.
Projects like EMS – Textile, used for transferring know - how to businesses, are more
efficient when they
10. How useful is the elaboration of pilot energy
make intensive use management implementations?
of a pilot plant for

experimenting and A lot
48% Considerably
simulating A little
41%
procedures as it is Not at all
Don’t know
possible to test and
6% 4%
assess various
1%
approaches without
having to apply
them initially to real procedures, which entails considerable risks.
6. The answers at the questions 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8 reveal the importance of the

dissemination activities for the further promotion of Energy Management not only at
the Textile Sector, but generally at the Industry. One of the project’s main scopes and
priorities was the promotion of its outcomes, that’s why a considerable number of
deliverables was prepared and several dissemination activities took place. These

activities were highly accepted since nearly 80% characterise both the quality of the
publications and the informative activities very positive.
7. As mentioned, EMS-Textile is a project designed to promote good practices in energy

management in the textile industries of Greece, Portugal, Spain and Bulgaria. For this
purpose, various guides, efficiency measures and manuals have been created to
assist in promoting energy management in small and medium sized textile
enterprises, together with seminars, conferences and the implementation of pilot
schemes to raise energy management awareness and present its advantages to
industry. This project in general and all its activities were viewed positively by all
those interviewed, many of whom considered that the implementation of a system of
this type in their business would be a profitable option.
8. The active participation of companies from all participating countries and their
intention to participate in future actions or exploit the deliverables of EMS – Textile,
are indisputable proofs of the potential of the work done and the infrastructure
produced, ensuring the future impact of the project’s outcomes.
A more analytical presentation of the methodology and the outcomes of the evaluation
procedure are available at Project’s Evaluation Report (Deliverable D.7.4).
3.7 Work Package 8 – Dissemination Actions

The wide promotion of the objectives and outcomes of the current project was ensured via
the realization of Work Package 8, which included the following actions and deliverables:
- Technical articles,
- Press publications,
- Presentations in energy/environmental conferences and textile exhibitions,
- Distribution of informative material,
- Creation of relative website,
- Project’s Presentations including slide packages, PowerPoint presentations, written
abstracts,
- Dissemination of results to other European states.
An analytical presentation of all the dissemination actions undertaken by each country –

including as well relative activities programmed after the completion of the current project –
is included Dissemination Report (Deliverable D.8.6).

4 LESSONS LEARNT FROM EXPERIENCE EXCHANGED AMONG

THE PROJECT’S PARTNERS
4.1 Lessons learnt from Greece
4.1.1 Current Status of Energy Management Systems in Greece

The concept of energy management is still not widely known in the Greek industry. Energy
management good practices are followed as a part of wider environmental management
standards like EMAS and ISO 14001:2004. However only a few leading powerful
companies are actually implementing these standards. In Greece ISO 14001:2004 is
implemented much more widely than EMAS.
The globalisation of the economy and the dynamic inversion of China in the textile market,
have threatened the existence of many Greek textile companies. In their effort to survive
and face this situation, they do not easily proceed in new investments, even when most
estimates favour them and small payback periods are foreseen. Except in the cases of the
dyeing and finishing facilities, the rest textile operations do no consider energy conservation
as a top priority.
The reasons for the aforementioned hesitance could be summarised as follows:

1. Inexistence of Legislative framework on energy conservation and monitoring. Till today
no legislation is in force, regarding the energy performance of industries. Greek
legislation has not even been harmonised with the 2002/91/EC Directive on the Energy
Performance of Buildings. No official benchmarking data on the overall performance of
specific industrial sectors are available as well, in order to make feasible to companies
- industries the evaluation of their overall energy performance.
2. The inexistence, in real terms, of a fully liberated Power Production – Distribution
System. Though the legislative framework has been developed, nevertheless Power
Production is still dominated by the Public Power Corporation, resulting in a
monopolistic power market.
3. The inexistence till 2006 of a Law promoting the use of Renewable Energy Sources.
The new Law was put in effect on July 2006, providing financial motives for producing
energy from renewables.
4. The inexistence of Third Party Financing (TPF) schemes. Till today no legislative
framework exists regarding the operation of Energy Services Companies (ESCO).

5. The relative small size of the Greek textile industries, which doesn’t allow them to
adopt Management Systems. As mentioned before, the preservation of such Systems
requires both human and material resources, and even Environmental Management
Systems according to the ISO 14001:2004 Standard or EMAS Regulation are not
widely implemented, since the public is not acquainted to them and consequently does
not demand them. Many times companies that use it, advertise it as a quality standard
which is more known to the public. Environmental labels, like Eco-label or Eko-tex,
have a little more demand. For the aforementioned reasons, the development of an
Energy Management System is often considered as a task that is not worth much effort
or commitment.
6. The relative small short-time percentage of energy saving. The implementation of
Energy Management Systems results in an annual energy conservation percentage
between 2 – 5%, which is considered very satisfactory in long terms. Nevertheless a lot
of executives tend to consider rather law the annual energy saving and the respective
monetary savings.
7. The relative low price of power in Greece, of the cheaper in Europe.
8. The lack of recognition of the positive effects (those derived from the adoption of
Energy Management Systems) from the owners, managers and key executive
personnel of the Greek textile industries. In some cases this could be characterised as
lack of vision or very conservative approach on further development under the new
status of globalization.
4.1.2 Factors that could promote the development of Energy Management Systems
The elaboration of the current project has contributed into distinguishing the following
factors that could be proven decisive for the further promotion of the adoption of Energy
Management Systems, not only at the Greek Textile Sector but generally at the Greek
Industry:
Preparation on behalf of the Greek State of a specific Legislative Framework that will
enhance energy minimisation and monitoring.
Provision of financial motives to industries that perform an overall good performance on
energy consumption and control, based on officially approved methodologies,
benchmark data and certified procedures.
Operation of the Greek Energy Market on a liberated basis, ensuring healthy
competition and high quality services.

Harmonization of the Greek Legislation to the proposed Directive of Demand

Management and Energy Services, thus providing the framework for the operation of
Third Party Financing schemes. The existence of the specific framework is expected to
have a multiple effect, promoting on the one side the implementation of energy saving
– monitoring investments in textile industries (among others) and improving on the
other side the know – how and the quality of the services provided by the technical
consultants and relevant companies. A new market of Energy Service Companies will
arise, promoting even more to key – actors the concept of energy minimisation and
management.
More dissemination - Training activities on behalf of the Greek State, promoting Energy
Conservation and Management at the industrial sector. A combined informative
campaign combined with highly standard seminars (engineers, executives and
managers, consultants, technical personnel) could be undertaken by the following
bodies, in order to ensure a multiple effect :Greek Ministry of Environment and Public
Works, Greek Ministry of Development, Centre of Renewable Energy Sources, Greek
Chamber of Engineers, Athens National Observatory, various Academic – Research
centres.
Promotion to the public opinion of the environmental friendliness of a product from an
energy point of view. A concept like energy labelling and categorization could be further
examined.
4.2 Lessons learnt from Portugal
In Portugal al the “Energy Intensive Consumers” have to comply with the Regulation for
Energy Consumption Management (RGCE), which forces the companies to realize energy
audits and implement energy conservation measures. This regulation is applicable to all
industries that are characterised as ‘’Intensive Consumers’’ i.e. companies that:
- their energy consumption during the last year was higher than 1000 toe (tonne oil
equivalent)/year;
- The nominal energy consumption for the total of their equipment is higher than 0,5
toe/hr;
- At least one equipment has nominal consumption of energy higher than 0,3 toe/hr.
All industries considered energy intensive consumers (among them the majority of the
Portuguese textile industries) are obligated to conduct an energy audit every five years.

During this period they must monitor and track energy costs and consumptions, and
implement good practices to reduce the energy consumption.
In Portugal, having in account the data of the two bigger Inspection and Certification bodies,
the approached number of textile companies with ISO 9001:2000 and ISO 14001:1996-
2004 certificated are 222 and 24, respectively. As Energy is an aspect of the implemented
Environmental Management Systems, the above companies have developed procedures
related to monitoring energy consumption or even implementing energy efficiency
measures.
Nevertheless the relative small size of the textile industries doesn’t allow them to adopt
additional Management Systems. The preservation of such Systems requires both human
and material resources, and since even Environmental Management Systems according to
the ISO 14001:2004 Standard or EMAS Regulation are not successfully implemented, it
was very difficult to achieve further results related to energy management.
The aforementioned factors explain the low applicability of energy management in general.
It is evident though that the existing legislative framework – which is adequate – in
combination with state financial aid and the wide presentation of the positive results of the
energy conservation practices will contribute a lot to the further promotion of the effective
elaboration of energy management systems.
4.3 Lessons learnt from Spain

4.3.1 Current Situation of the Spanish Textile Industry
A general outline about the situation of Spanish textile companies divides them into two
opposite extremes. On the one hand, there are companies that have gradually invested in
new equipment giving great emphasis on the equipments’ electrical consumption as well as
on the possible use of residual energy in other parts of the process (dyeing and finishing
machines). The aforementioned companies, although they have not implemented an
operational and effective energy management system, nevertheless they optimise their
processes and control energy consumption levels. Such companies show significant
reticence when it comes into implementing, for example, the energy management system
developed in the project as – although in this case it does not involve much of extra work
and paperwork – they have already implemented systems for quality or environmental
management.

On the other hand, there are companies that continue using equipment which, although
functional, is not state-of-the-art and thus the energy consumption is not optimised. Such
companies are the most proactive in terms of the management of energy consumption, as
long as it does not require extra cost or the engagement of human resources. These
constrictions derive form the significant current crisis in the textile sector.
4.3.2 Actions carried out within EMS Textile – Results

The following actions, which are of general interest for this second company type, were
carried out during the EMS project by the people involved in energy management in various
companies and centres and are of particular note:
- Preparing a standard for the implementation of an energy management system as
well as an internal energy auditing tool.
- Benchmarking of electrical consumption by subsectors, which act as a basis that can
be used to compare the company’s situation in relation to other companies that carry
out the same activity.
- Creation of a list of specific useful actions to increase performance of equipment and
facilities in textile companies.
- The development of a good practices manual which acts as a guide for the
implementation of the standard or for corrective measures.
The results obtained by AITEX in terms of the use of renewable energy sources at the
textile sector, in order to generate electricity and hot water for use in industrial processes,
are worth special attention. Studies were carried out, including the implementation of pilot
trials, presenting the steps that should be taken in the future by the companies that are
most advanced in terms of energy management. The methods and technologies examined,
can give companies independence from the unstable energy generation markets which rely
on limited, traditional fuel sources (oil, gas, nuclear energy,…) becoming more expensive
day by day.
Energy conservation and management are relatively new features in the Spanish industrial
sector. Since Spain has to reach the targets that the country committed to in the Kyoto
Protocol regarding energy generation from renewable energy sources, both national and
regional governments now set aside funds to subsidise facilities of this type as much as
possible, aiming to decrease the energy investment pay back periods between 30 and 40%.

The renewable energy technologies that were analysed within the framework of the EMS-
Textile project were:
- Solar Thermal Energy: Especially useful for companies that dye and finish textiles, as
well as for those that consume a lot of hot water and thus have bigger energy saving
potential. The performance of the new vacuum collectors in solar heat panels
indicated that process temperatures can be reached, depending on the speed that
water flow rate at the panels. Savings in the consumption of gas to heat water can
reach up to 60%. This percentage refers to companies located in the Region of
Valencia, where there are almost 300 days of sunshine per year.
- Use of biomass as a fuel to heat water: This technology is an ideal solution for the
same type of companies as the previous option. The efficiency and the operational
range of the current biomass boilers permit the use of different types of fuel (forest
waste, almond shells, olive stones, etc). As they do not rely on a single fuel type,
different options can be used according to their availability during the different
seasons of the year. This means that the fuel is exceptionally cheap and will never
run out, and high temperatures can be reached, with almost no limitations. However,
a minimum amount of auxiliary fossil fuel may be required.
- Photovoltaic Thermal Energy: This energy type is ideal for companies that consume
high levels of electrical energy such as spinning and weaving plants for both
openwork and interlock fabrics. The adoption of this kind of renewable energy
technology can make an industry independent in terms of its energy use. Although
manufacturing companies will only be partially independent, currently the most
important advantage of this type of energy is the possibility of selling the energy
generated to the manufacturing company itself for more than 400% of the value of the
tariff that the power company charges. This illogical situation is also explained by the
need to meet the criteria established in the Kyoto Protocol. As a result, although this
technology can be used to supply electricity for manufacturing processes, it is not yet
being used for this purpose.

4.4 Lessons learnt from Bulgaria
4.4.1 Level of implementation of Energy management

In spite of the fact that the textile industry historically used to be well developed in Bulgaria,
the level of implementation of EMS is still limited. The majority of the companies do not pay
enough attention to the energy issues. It concerns mainly the old textile factories that are in
a process of recovering.
4.4.2 Reasons for low level of implementation

The reasons for that state are political and organizational. The transition period, the
restructuring of the industry and its privatizations lead to new economic and political
environment and posed complicated task before the textile industry. The traditional markets
were lost and thus new markets had to be found along with the appearance of new
requirements and regulations for quality assurance. The textile industry had to adapt to the
market conditions and to the furious competition from East Asia.
It is well known that the industry needs investments in order to improve the technology but
the energy management could be implemented step by step in parallel with the
technological improvements.
Several reasons for the limited implementation of Energy Management Systems could be
enumerated as follows:
♦ Level of the energy prices,
♦ The legislative framework,
♦ Awareness of the owners,
♦ Funding mechanisms.
4.4.3 Ways and actions for promotion of Energy Management in the industry
Establishment of cost reflective (market) prices of energy and energy carriers. For the
time being the prices of energy and energy carriers achieved market oriented levels
and are already powerful tool to increase the implementation of more energy efficient
approaches in industry.
Establishment of legislative framework. The legislative framework at present is clearly
established and well developed. There are well developed mechanisms for auditing of
enterprises, certifying of buildings, and labelling of products and equipment. The main
activity towards legislation at this moment is to keep the legislation framework up to

date with all relevant EC Directives and to develop advanced norms, standards and
energy indicators.
Awareness campaign and education. New energy management tools and methods are
necessary to be developed/disseminated among the users. Knowledge about modern
metering, information, communication, control and monitoring systems shall be spread
out among textile company managers and energy departments through training
courses, workshops, seminars, brochures, Internet etc.
Creation/availability of funding mechanisms. At present, there are reliable sources for
funding of all activities, related to the energy efficiency. There is a Fund for Energy
Efficiency that supports measures and activities towards increasing the energy
efficiency. The Kozloduy International Decommissioning Support Fund (KIDSF) has
been established and administered by the European Bank for Reconstruction and
Development (EBRD). EBRD gives the sufficient credit lines to the local banks to give
credits to support the energy management activities.
The National banks themselves with their own credits play important role in financing
the measures related to energy efficiency. The availability of credit lines however is not
sufficient condition for implementing energy management projects. The reason is that
most of the textile enterprises can not overcome the initial investments in order to
implement efficient Energy Management Systems and relatives projects.
A Third Party Financing mechanism is appealed do help in overcoming this gap.
Although the Energy Efficiency Law lay down the rules concerning the energy services
and particularly the ESCO, considerable efforts are needed to promote them through
simplifying the rules and disseminating information.
4.4.4 Conclusions
The work performed by BSREC and AATEB during the project implementation allows
formulating the following general conclusions:
The limited implementation of Energy Management in the textile industry in Bulgaria
is a result mainly of the historically established conditions of subsidized prices, poor
economic conditions, lack of normative framework, absence of awareness and
funding sources. The conditions have been improved considerably during the last
several years. It is expected that after the accession to the EU, the economy
development will progress at higher pace.

The energy intensity of the textile industry in Bulgaria is significantly higher than the
same indicator in the EU.
Due to the insufficient awareness about the real possibilities of the EMS approach
and the potential of savings, contrary to expectations the textile companies in very
rare occasions are the active side looking for EM systems implementation.
The impediments (including technological) to the implementation of EM could be

overcome unifying the efforts of the government (regulations, support schemes),
investors (responsiveness), financing institutions (credit lines), energy service
companies (TPF, audits), research institutions (technological progress), agencies and
NGO (raising awareness) etc. The main directions to the implementation of EM in the
textile industry could be defined as follows:
♦ Rise of awareness of energy managers and companies’ managers,
♦ Large scale implementation of Third Party Financing,
♦ Implementation of modern EM tools and systems,
♦ Training and education of energy managers and operational personal.
The most important action is to start with installation of metering and monitoring
systems– first step towards energy management.

5 GENERAL CONCLUSIONS
General conclusions that have derived from the realization of EMS – Textile are presented
below:
Many industries in European Union have already undertaken energy efficiency
investments, but the improvement of energy management is not among their priorities,
in many cases because they are not aware of its benefits and practices.
The benchmarking research conducted at the participating countries of the EMS-Textile

project showed that energy performance was similar in Greek, Spanish and
Portuguese enterprises, while Bulgarian companies presented lower performance due
to the use of older equipment and production techniques.
Real management commitment is the key for the successful implementation of energy
management. It is expressed via the allocation of adequate financial and human
resources and not just by written policies.
Many textile companies are reluctant to implement energy management because their
financial situation has worsened view of competition from low cost Asian rivals.
In countries where some minimum energy management practices were enforced by

law (Portugal) results were positive, but this option should be used wisely in order not
to create unnecessary burdens on companies. A lot of companies are willing to
elaborate energy conservation or renewable energy investments when respective
grants exist. It seems that it may be useful to make the application of energy
management elements obligatory when a company receives grants for energy
investments. In Greece energy auditing was requested in order to receive funding,
perhaps energy monitoring should become too.
It seems that legislation can contribute to the achievement of energy efficiency.

Approaches like the SEVESO directive, which forces companies above certain
thresholds to implement safety management practices, or other laws that force certain
chemical companies to implement environmental management, can be a solution. In
our case companies above certain annual energy consumption could be forced to
implement energy management.
Financial incentives and Third Party Financing are additional options that can be used
in combination with other supportive measures. Experience from the funding of energy
efficiency and RES investments is very positive.

The application of energy management in a company has additional indirect benefits,

such as improvement of management and regulatory compliance, increased internal
communication and greater staff involvement, application of good practices in everyday
life, together with an improved corporate social profile and relations with public
authorities and other stakeholders
Various energy management schemes have been implemented in Europe for decades.
Some of them focus on energy audits, others on monitoring and targeting, and others
on personnel training and sensitization. More integrated approaches follow the Plan –
Do – Check – Act cycle and are quite similar to ISO 14001. Currently the most popular
and promising trend is energy performance benchmarking, which presents difficulties
due to the lack of precise, analytical and valid data.
Although the average 1.5% of annual energy conservation, due to good energy
management, may appear small, nevertheless it can climb up to an accumulative
conservation of about 15%, after 10 years of continuous implementation. Furthermore
clear task assignment, good internal communication, personnel involvement and close
energy use monitoring, improve significantly the whole management of a company.
These issues have already been outlined during the EMS-Textile project and in its
informative activities.
The fluctuating high fuel prices and global warming are problems that indicate the
significance of Energy Conservation and Management. However, the intensive
economic competition and the lack of financial and human resources in many
companies, make it more difficult. In this controversial environment, all key actors and
stakeholders should try to contribute as much as they can in energy efficiency. Now the
need of cooperation between EU and state officials, energy specialised companies and
industrial enterprises, appears more important than ever

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Europe Intelligent Energy Program EMS – Textile Project

Grand Agreement: IEE/04/113/S07.38648

Promotion of Energy Management Practices in the Textile Industries of

Results Oriented Report

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3 ACHIEVED RESULTS PER WORK PACKAGE................................................................. 11

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The EMS-TEXTILE project intends to promote and introduce energy management

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1.2 Work plan and methodology

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SIGMA Consultants Ltd (SIGMA), the coordinator of EMS-

The Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (SEPEE)

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CITEVE Technological Centre was created in 1989 through the

AITEX Textile Research Centre is a private non-profit making

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The Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers

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Table 1. Contact Persons and Details per Implementation Body

Implementation Body Address Name Telephone N° Fax N° E-mail

Hellenic Fashion 18 A Ermou Str. 546 24 0030 2310 0030 2310

Quinta de Maia – Rua

AITEX Textile Plaza Emilio Sala 1 0034 96 0034 96

Black Sea Regional 8 Triaditza Str. 00359 2 office@bsrec.bg

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3 ACHIEVED RESULTS PER WORK PACKAGE

3.1.1 Energy Management Review

Status of the Textile Sector in Greece

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Status of the Textile Sector in Portugal

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Strengths of the Sector

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Weaknesses of the sector

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Marketing – the companies possess insufficient marketing orientation, infrastructure,

Good Practices in the Greek Textile Sector

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Good Practices in the Portuguese Textile Sector

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Good Practices in the Spanish Textile Sector

Good Practices in the Bulgarian Textile Sector

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a) Implementation of organizational and technical, as well as management measures,

i) Highly automated, unmanned and robotized production/machines, efficient electric

3.1.2 Energy Management Standard

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3.1.3 Energy Management Guidelines

3.2 Work Package 3 – Energy Management Tools

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Table 2 – Energy Management Matrix

Level Policy Organisation Communication Monitoring Awareness Investment

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Table 3 – Pilot energy audits results

Level Policy Organisation Communication Monitoring Awareness Investment

1,7 2,0 1,0 2,0 1,0 2,7

Average 2,1 2,6 1,6 2,4 1,4 2,1

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3.2.1 EMS-Textile Benchmarking Data from Greece