Pattern tutorial

Loose blouse/shirt
by RomaiLee Cosplay

Materials - paper (roll)

- eraser - drop action pen or pencil - scissors - different kind of rulers - measuring tape - adhesive tape - compass You dont need every of these tools but it will be easier with them. 1. Choose your size (the table below shows the German sizes, I tried to match them with the common sizes) Since I have no idea about the correct terms in English I just made up something, I hope youll understand.

2. Write down your chosen measurements as follows: size 40 (M-L) BU WA HI BL WL TL* BW BUW NW armhole width armhole recession measurements 46cm 37cm 49cm 20cm 41cm 70cm 18cm 20cm 6.5cm 1/4 OW = 11.5 0 add-on

+4cm +1.5cm +1.5cm +1.5cm +1cm +0.5cm +1cm

*TL is the total length of your pattern (from point W-L) The armhole widht is calculated: 1/4 OW Attention, the add-on are going to be mentioned during the construction description again - that doesnt mean you need to add them again!

L MB SS SS T2 MF

Construction
Back A-A1 A-W W-O W-T W-L A1-A2 O-O1 A3 A3-S S-S1 = NW + 0.5 = 1/3 A-A1 = BL + 1.5 = WL + 1.5 = TL = 1-1.5cm (shoulder dart) = BW + 1.5 = right angle from O1 in direction of the line A = 1/5 O1-A3 - 1cm = 2cm

Armhole and front O1-O2 O1-O4 = 1/4 BU + 1 = 1/2 O1-O2 + 1 (= the lowest point of the armhole) The point O4 is marked with pencil by me.

For size 36 the point A4 is on the same level as A3. For every additional size add 0.5cm. A4-A5 O2-O3 O2-B1 B1-B Circle. with r C-C1 Circle. with r A7 Circle. with r O2-S2 O2-V O5 armhole = 1/3 O-O1 + 2 = BL + 1 (Middle front (MF) = right angle at point O3) = 1/2 O2-O3 + 1 (+1 in direction of the MF) = 3cm (Bust point) = A-A1 ; centre = A6 = 0.5cm = B-A5 ; centre = B in direction of the MF = 0.5cm behind the circle, A8 is located up to 3cm below A7 = A2-S1 ; centre = A5 = O1-S1 - 2cm (measure from O1 in direction of the circle , intersection = S2) = 4cm = 1/2 O-O3 (= side seam (SS)) Reduce each 1.5cm for the points T6 and T7 Join the points T7/T6 with H6 with a curved line (= hip curve) = von O1 3cm, von O2 2cm (see picture), draw armhole curve as on picture.

Yoke (optional) Back W-W1 Front S2-S4 = 5cm Right angle in direction of the armhole Shift the line at the armhole 1cm downwards and make a slight curve. = 3cm, parallel to the shoulder until below A7

Sleevebreath M M-K K-P K-U6 K-U7 K-3 K-2 Sleevewidth P6-P7 P8-P6/P9-P7 Slit/P10 P7/P6 = Regular width of shirt cuff (or your own widht) 22-24cm, with 2 pleats, each 4cm = Each P9-P8 minus shirt cuff+pleats (only for sleeve with shirt cuff) = 1/2 P-P7 ; about 10cm parallel to the straight grain (P-K) (only for sleeve with shirt cuff) = Extend each 0.5cm, curve the line = draw a cross with a right angle = 2/3 O1-S1 = Sleevelength 58cm (minus height of shirt cuff if you want one) = S2-O5 (armhole front) minus 0.5cm = S1-O5 (armhole back) minus 0.5 Right angle on the line P = P8/P9 = 1/3 K-U7, raise about 2.5cm = 1/2 K-U6

Please pay attention that this sleeve is specially created for Blouses and shirts. For classic jackets and coats I recommend to use the so called Tailleur sleeve (but Im not sure if its really called like that in English -.-) Im making a tutorial for this sleeve too but be prepared its a lot more complicated. Anyway if you have no other choice its also possible to use the shirts sleeve for everything. For example you leave out the whole thing with the shirt cuff and you draw the distance between P7 and P6 however long you want. Checking = curved sleeve line (U7 to K to U6) + 0.5-1cm = armhole curved (S1to O5 to S2) The sleeve has alwais to be slightly bigger than the armhole.

P9

P8