Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Dress in Nigeria
Bibi Bakare-Yusuf
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public outcry against Lagos State Police, the State Governor
and the Chief of Police went on record to deny authorising the
arrest of women.
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insecurities and existential anxieties are projected: women’s
sexuality and agency in urban space (Ivaska 2004, Wilson
1985, Little 1973); the proliferation of new information
technologies, images and the semiotics of fashion (Barthes
1985, Hebidge 1979); increasing economic and social
inequalities; and public morality and private vices. Because
women’s bodies are the trope for the articulation of these
anxieties, they also become the site for both the attempted
resolution and restitution of that anxiety.
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whatsoever […]
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Over the years, I have watched helplessly as our
society degenerate from a community of people with
very high values, morals, self-esteem/respect,
dignity of the human person, upright family
values/upbringing, etc. to a state of near-madness,
collapse of moral values, tolerance of immorality
and all forms of decadence of social ethics which
uphold the dignity of the human person. I am happy
that now, GOD has given me the golden opportunity
to steer the partnership with you, Distinguished
Senators, on the project for the RESTORATION OF
HUMAN DIGNITY[caps in original text] (2008:1).
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The Nigerian criminal and penal codes already have clauses about indecent acts and
sexual offences (see section 214 - 222, 252 – 253, 351 – 360 of the criminal code and
section 285 of the penal code. Since there are already provisions (however inadequate)
within the legal system, we can only conclude that a) the Senator has not really explored
existing provisions; b) she is not interested in modifying or strengthening the existing
codes so that they will be more favourable to women; and c) she is more concerned with
instituting a dress code where it was previously absence and in doing so criminalise
women’s expressive agency.
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In my desperation to find a redress for these moral
decadence, I was forced to examine the laws of
various advanced democracies of the world and
other highly religious nations. The laws of the
United States of America, the Great Britain, Canada,
Saudi Arabia, Iran, Israel, Germany, India, China etc
(emphasis mine) (ibid: 2).
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that their proposals be subject to argument, and
amenable to reason. I may be opposed to abortion for
religious reasons, but if I seek to pass a law banning the
practice, I cannot simply point to the teachings of my
church or evoke God’s will. I have to explain why abortion
violates some principle that is accessible to people of all
faiths, including those with no faith at all (Quoted in
Mansfield, 2008:89-90).
The fact that religion and state are not separated in the 1999
Constitution, thus halting the development of a modern secular
state, does not preclude or abnegate the reality of Nigeria’s
socio-ethnic complexity and the rural-urban matrix with its
myriad conceptions of dress and nudity, morality and
immorality. It is hard to imagine that any religious prescription,
specifically in relation to dress and adornment, can be
universalised across this complex patchwork of beliefs, without
considerable resistance and contestation on the basis of local
cultures and practices in the emerging context of global
semiotic flows and exchange. For example, whilst some
Nigerian Pentecostal groups attempt to restrict the wearing of
trousers for women because of a fear of blurred gender
boundaries announced and reproduced by dress, among
Muslims, the wearing of trousers by women fits into their
doctrinal code to cover the flesh. Such diverse positions on a
single item of clothing contests the Senator’s claim that ‘all our
religions forbid public lewdness, public nudity or public
nakedness’ (2008: 4). This statement, in the face of the
examples just provided, shows that in a pluralised society as
Nigeria, the Senator’s desire for a unified legal moralism is
already doomed and unworkable.
Second, the Senator assumes that the social fabric and judicial
system of a society must be grounded in a universally shared
morality that can be adhered to across time and space. This
pre-secular presumption takes the law to be the codification of
religious and cultural custom into abstract principle. It does not
occur to the Senator that the law could be grounded in a
secular principle of human rights or ethics which does not
require an underlying moral consensus across social difference.
Many legal theorists would agree that the use of morality in
criminal law has no traction in a modern legal system, let alone
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in a plural society as Nigeria. Yet, Senator Ekaette continues to
view the law through a religious and cultural lens, as well as
regarding the semi-nudity of rural African women as harking
back to a pre-historic, stone age era that has no place in a
modernising Africa.
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Commonly referred to as “Flashing,” this exhibitionist phenomenon usually involves a male opening his fly
and in a ‘flash’ exposes his genitalia to an unsuspecting individual (typically female).
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assumption that beyond our own private morals, judicial moral
principles are required to guide the conduct of the citizen who
would otherwise be immune from moral and social censure. For
the Senator, it is both right and necessary to insist on some
moral conformity and to legally enforce that conformity in a
country like Nigeria, which we are told, is fast losing its moral
compass. She writes, ‘Society must use the law to preserve
morality in the same way it uses it to safeguard anything else if
it is essential to its existence’. The law becomes part of the
disciplinary regime that will not only produce a regulated,
civilised subject (Foucault 1978, Elias 1969), but subjects that
can represent and ‘safeguard’ the interest of the nation
(Moorman 2004, Allman 2004) as opposed to those bent on
perpetuating the ‘stone age’ position of their naked ancestors.
If the Bill was passed, would we then not have to force large
communities of Nigerians to re-adjust their socio-cultural
perspective to one which eroticises or sexualises states of
7
BBC World Service, Africa Have Your Say, Tues Feb 12th 2008.
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nudity or semi-nudity which were previously normatively
neutral? By eroticising the naked body, does the Senator not
participate in both real and symbolic dismembering of the
female body? In a context where commodification is
commonplace, by measuring areas of the female body parts
that can be legislated upon, is she not reducing women’s
bodies to a collection of sexual organs perpetually ready for
sexual appropriation?
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represses it.
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therefore is that since semi-clothed women are unwilling to be
morally burdened, they must be protected against themselves
because their partial nudity ‘might give off unintended sexual
signals’ (Duits and van Zoonen 2006:107) which they cannot
control and may lead to unintended consequences. For the
Senator, there are two consequences of public exposure:
promiscuity and violation, desire and penalty (rape and
intimidation). The unclothed female body therefore becomes a
site for both seduction and an invitation for violating
experiences, especially when this body moves around in urban
public space (Hansen, 2004). This is because normatively, the
naked female body is only meant for the private male gaze, an
expectation which fits into a broader discourse about the
sexualisation (Dworkin, 1981) and compulsory
heterosexualisation (Rich 1983) of women’s body and the
anxiety about women’s erotic agency.
The moment the naked body (as it always will) moves from the
private arena and is displayed in the public realm, it becomes
marked as sexual and exposed to social conventions of policing
and disciplinary apparatus. This ‘ignores the fact that sexuality
is not an essential feature of bodily display and dress, but the
effect of the reaction of others’ (Duits and van Zoonen
2006:108). From the Senator’s perspective, what is important is
less the agency and opinion of the wearer, but the reaction of
others who are forced to confront the public display of youthful
female flesh. It is precisely because the Judeo-Christian subtext
of the Bill associates women with the body, sexuality,
decoration and morality that the Senator privileges the
perspective of the different publics (law, church, institutions,
media etc.) over the agency of women. The very fact that both
the Senator/moralist and the wearer of the clothes or the semi-
naked women can encode their action with multiple meanings
shows the malleability and mutability of dress.
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interview when she said that covered women are unlikely to be
raped. Through the work of feminist and gender activists the
world over, we know that being clothed or unclothed does not
prevent sexual intimidation or violation. In fact, it is possible to
argue that the very act of clothing and covering can actually
open up the possibility for more erotic imaginings. Because the
closeness of clothing to the body involves an interplay between
concealment and exposure, we can never know in advance
what will cause arousal. In saying this, I do not intend to draw
any correlations between causality and effect. Rather, I contend
that being dressed or partially undressed does not
automatically expose the wearer to or protect them from
inappropriate and unwanted sexual advances. The fact that
unwanted sexual advances and violations are always read as
imminent is part of a structured patriarchal system which
assumes that female sexuality is always for and available to the
male gaze and open to manipulation and violation.
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the scantily dressed female is therefore directed at and
displayed for the consuming male spectator who has the
privilege of looking and possessing the objectified female
(Berger, 1972).
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desire for sartorial expression and women’s sexuality must at
all times be controlled and protected from the violating male
gaze, whereas male desire itself must be allowed its
untrammelled course. Here, we see the ontological violence of
an internalised patriarchal logic, whereby women’s agency and
modes of identity are subordinated to male desire and male
control, without any trace of reciprocal delimitation.
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to face a society where there are simply not enough jobs to
absorb its youthful population. Part of the dynamic of a
patriarchal society like Nigeria is to ensure that there is less
competition for jobs by reducing the chances of women to build
a career. Young women are therefore encouraged at an early
age to marry and reproduce; they are also deterred from
entering competition with men on the corporate ladder via a
thousand subtle and unsubtle prejudices and tacit barriers to
entry. The consequence of this is that while both young male
and female graduates are placed under severe pressure in their
search for work, it is female graduates who face the most
extreme pressure where there is a tacit expectation to present
their youthful body for commodification and sexualisation.8 The
picture is the same while at university (Bennett 2004).
Research has shown that the key opportunities for sexual abuse
of female students lie at two stages: in the struggle to get
accommodation on campus, and during and after the exam
period9. In both cases, men act as gate-keepers, requesting
sexual favours in order to assure results (a room on campus
and successful exam scores).
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hotel night-clubs or on-the-street modes of pick-up. It is in this
context that Senator Ekaette’s proposed Bill about sexual
intimidation should be properly framed. Rather than a sign of
moral degeneracy, the transactional use of the body by young
female students, graduates and women in the work place is a
response to huge social strain and inequality whereby
competition for jobs, and ultimately, financial stability, requires
and almost demands the commodification of female flesh.
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themselves: the ressentiment of the oppressed as Nietzsche
might have put it.
Reference
18
Gallop, Jane (2001) ‘Feminist Accused of Sexual Harassment
(excerpt)’ in Feminist Consequences: Theory For The New
Century. New York: Columbia University Press
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National Assembly
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