CHAPTER 9 MARKETING OF KHADI PRODUCTS

9.1 Introduction Mark tin! i" on o# t$ % r& crucia' ' ( nt" )$ n it co( " to *roduct" 'ik K$adi. Furt$ r it i" o+" r% d t$at K$adi $a" a 'i(it d (ark t cat rin! to # ) con"u( r" )$o it$ r + 'i % " in K$adi id o'o!& or in t$ !ood ,ua'iti " o# ) arin! cotton c'ot$ ". It i" t$ r #or int r "tin! to 'ook at t$ (ark tin! "trat !i " ado*t d +& t$ K-IC .(ark tin! )in!/ and In"titution" in *ro(otin! K$adi. T$ data "ourc #or (o"t o# t$ ta+' " in t$i" c$a*t r i" d ri% d #ro( t$ ,u "tionnair o# cuto( r" .01 in nu(+ r/ "ur% & d in t$ K$adi 2$and r". T$ou!$ t$ nu(+ r i" "(a'' it i" du to 'ack o# a%ai'a+i'it& o# cu"to( r" durin! t$ %i"it" to t$ K$adi +$andar" t$rou!$ out India. Ho) % r on can "ti'' dra) "o( +road conc'u"ion" #ro( t$i" t$in "a(*' )$ic$ can + #ound tru #or (a3orit& o# t$ "tat ". In #act t$i " i" t$ on o# t$ 'i(itation o# t$i" c$a*t r. In " ction 9.45 a"* ct" 'ik (ark tin! "trat !i " o# K$adi5 in% "t( nt in u* !radation o# d "i!n" and *roduct" to "uit t$ c$an!in! (ark t n d" and trainin! o# * r"onn ' in (ark tin!. S ction 9.6 'ook" at t$ (ark tin! 'inka! " o# K$adi. A +ri # ana'&"i" o# t$ cu"to( r * rc *tion o# K$adi i" und rtak n +& ana'&7in! t$ ,u "tionnair o# cu"to( r" in " ction 9.8. S ction 9.1 'ook" at t$ ,ua'it& o# K$adi ri!$t #ro( t$ ti( o# it" initia' *roc "" ti'' t$ #ina' *roduct to ! t an und r"tandin! o# t$ )a& ,ua'it& i" %i ) d +& t$ in"titution". It i" #urt$ r "u+"tantiat d )it$ our #i 'd o+" r%ation" on t$ attri+ut " o# K$adi. Fina''& in " ction 9.9 ) 'ook at t$ ( r!in!

t :ti' (ark tin! "trat !i " in t$ G'o+a'i"in! ra and it" i(*'ication #or K$adi (ark tin! to n$anc it" "tatu". Su((ar& and conc'u"ion" ar *r " nt d in " ction

9.0 9.4 Mark tin! Strat !i " O# K$adi In"titution" It i" #ound t$at t$ co((on Mark tin! "trat !& ado*t d +& in"titution" ar o* nin! u* o# n ) "a' " +$andar"5 *uttin! u* ad% rti" ( nt" and +ann r" and di"tri+utin! *a(*$' t" durin! t$ r +at * riod. T$ *ri(ar& "ur% & data o# t$ in"titution" r % a' d ,uit a di"(a' *ictur a+out t$ na;% (ark tin! *ractic " ado*t d +& t$ in"titution" co(*ar d to toda&<" $i=t c$ (ark tin! "trat !i ". Ta+' 9.1 "$o)" t$at 99 * rc nt o# t$ in"titution" + 'i % d (ark tin! a" on'& o* nin! n )

40>

"a' " +$andar" and :$i+ition" and % r& # ) .4?/ + 'i % d in i(*ro%in! t$ ,ua'it& and d "i!n *att rn o# t$ K$adi. Ta+' 9.1@ Sa' " Strat !i " Ado*t d +& In"titution" to S '' K$adi. T&* o# "trat !i " ado*t d Sa' " +$andar"5 :$i+ition" and *a(*$' t" Hi!$ ,ua'it& *roduction N ) %ari t& B d "i!n" O* nin! n ) +$andard"B"a' " out' t" Co(+ination o# a+o% #our "trat !i " Sourc @ In"titution" ,u "tionnair Furt$ r5 t$ "a' " +$andar" o# t$ in"titution" ar not *ro# ""iona''& (ana! d5 t$ ir ti(in!" ar a'"o not "uita+' to t$ cu"to( r"5 to ,uot on o# t$ K-I2 Dir ctor" CD$& "tock i" incr a"in! + cau" at % r& *'ac K$adi "$o* i" t$ r 5 +ut it )i'' + "$ut #or6=8 $our" in a da&. I# an& #ar( r i" co(in! #ro( #ar o## *'ac t$ n $ )i'' $a% to !o +ack. K$adi "$o* o* n" at 9 >Ec'ock in t$ (ornin! and "$ut" +& 1 >Ec'ock. T$ n it a!ain o* n" at 6 *.(. and "$ut" +& 9 *.(. It )ork" on !o% rn( nt ti(in!. For t$i" Ec ntra' %a"tra!arE "$ou'd + (ad and r +at "$ou'd + !i% n on t$at *roduct". D$o % r *roduc " an&t$in! "$ou'd " nd it to Ec ntra' %a"tra!arE and t$ n can + " nt to "a' " out' t"<. Ta+' 9.4@ O*inion A+out S$ar o# Mark t A""i"tanc in t$ Co"t=C$art. I" * rc nta! o# (ark t a""i"tanc in co"t=c$art "u##ici nt F" No No r "*on" Tota' Sourc @ In"titution" ,u "tionnair Mark tin! *ro(otion o# K$adi i" "" ntia''& don +& t$ in"titution". T$ & $a% 3u"t ( a!r >.1? o# t$ tota' co"t o# t$ *roduct to + "* nt on (ark tin! t$ *roduct. 401 P rc nta! 60.1 80.9 18.9 1>>.> P rc nta! 9A.A> 4.1> 4.1> 4.1> 48.9>

Mo"t in"titution" #ind it ,uit in"u##ici nt .Ta+'

9.4/. Furt$ r i# ) co(*ar

t$ (ark tin! a""i"tanc !i% n in t$ co"t=c$art to an& ot$ r *roduct ) can a"i'& !u "" t$at it i" 'ar! '& in"u##ici nt and r ,uir " to + r cti#i d. Ta+' 9.6@ S$ar o# In*ut"BDa! "BMar!in" in C'ot$ Pric " in Hand'oo( and

K$adi " ctor. Or!ani"ation" Coo* rati% " .A.P/ C ntra' !o%t. "c$ ( F ((i!anur Soci t& Ma"t r ) a% r .Gad)a'/ .Pri%at / K$adi Co"t=C$art 40.68 8A.86G 48.A6H 1>> Sourc @ Mukund .4>>1/5 Ta+' 9.4.#or Hand Ioo( S ctor and K-IC Co"t= C$art #or in"titution". GNot @ "*inn r" )a! " ar around .11.10 ?5 and ) '#ar #und Jinc nti% .4.00?/5 )a% r" )a! " .19.0A? and ) '#ar #und Jinc nti% .6.6A?/ HNot @ Tota' (ar!in inc'ud "@ Trad (ar!in .4.49?/5 *u+'icit& .>.60?/5 in"uranc .>.09?/ 2ank int r "t .8.19 ?/5 E"ta+'i"$( nt (ar!in .19.90 ?/ Co(*arin! t$ co"t "tructur " in $and'oo( " ctor o# And$ra Prad "$ and t$at o# K$adi ) #ind t$at t$ou!$ )a! " account #or t$ (a3or co(*on nt in K$adi " ctor +ut it i" "*'it into "*inn r" and ) a% r" )a! ". I# ) co(*ar 3u"t t$ ) a% r" )a! " acro"" t$ cat !ori " ) #ind t$at K$adi .19.0A?/ #a''" #ar + 'o) % n t$ *ri%at )a! "tandard" .41?/ .Ta+' 9.6/. Trad (ar!in i" ,uit 'o) in K$adi .4.49 ?/ co(*ar d to ot$ r" +ut t$ "ta+'i"$( nt (ar!in account" #or around 19.90 * rc nt5 In*ut" 88 8> 40.1 41 Da! " 88 8> 40.1 41 Mar!in" 14 4> 81 1> Tota' 1>> 1>> 1>> 1>>

)$ic$ i" $i!$ r t$an % n coo* rati% ". O% ra'' t$ co"t inc'ud " (an& ot$ r co(*on nt" 'ik 5 in"uranc .>.09?/5 +ank int r "t .8.19 ?/5 inc nti% " and ) '#ar #und. T$u" t$ cu"to( r + ar" a'' t$ co"t o# *roduction inc'udin! t$ +ank 'oan" tak n +& t$ in"titution". Mor o% r in"titution" ! t #urt$ r r +at on " ''in! t$ "

*roduct"5 )$ic$ i" a'"o a "u+"id&. T$u" o% ra'' in"titution" ar "u+"idi7 d in (an& )a&". And i# ) " t$ (*'o&( nt and )a! ! n ration it i" ,uit 'o) and

co(*arati% '& ' "" r t$an :i"tin! $and'oo( " ctor. T$ "o( t$in!5 )$ic$ n d" to + tak n )it$ a *inc$ o# "a't. Anot$ r conc rn i"5 )$at $a% in"titution" don )it$ t$ "ta+'i"$( nt co"t around .4> ?/ )$ n t$ & ar "u**o" d 404 ,u "tion o# K$adi + in! co"t'& + cau" o# )a! co(*on nt i"

to + )orkin! on no=*ro#it and no 'o"" +a"i"K In t$ #i 'd ) #ound t$at in"titution" $a% +ui't u* %a"t in#ra"tructur "5 )$ic$ n d" to + critica''& :a(in d +& t$ Co((i""ion. Id a''& t$ "ta+'i"$( nt co"t o# K$adi "$ou'd $a% + n around 1>= 14 * rc nt on'& 'ik t$ coo* rati% " o# AP $and'oo( ) a%in! )$ic$ c$ar! " around 14 * rc nt a" "ta+'i"$( nt co"t )$i' )orkin! on t$ "i(i'ar *rinci*' " a" K$adi " ctor. T$u" co"t=c$art in K$adi n d" to + r ='ook d % r& c'o" '& and c$an! d accordin! to curr nt (ark t "c nario. T$ co"t=c$art curr nt'& in %o!u )a" d % 'o* d +& (a$at(a Gand$i to (aintain !ood )a! and *roduct ,ua'it& "tandard" acro"" t$ countr&. 2ut 'ookin! at toda&<" c$an!in! "c nario it (a& not + t$at r ' %ant. E:c *t k *in! t$ ra) (at ria' co"t to (aintain *roduct ,ua'it& and )a! " to (aintain )a! *arit& acro"" t$ r !ion" t$ ot$ r co(*on nt" 'ik (ark tin! a""i"tanc 5 in"titution<" "ta+'i"$( nt co"t" tc. n d" to + don a)a& )it$. K-IC $a" a dir ctorat o# (ark tin! and :*ort at t$ c ntra' o##ic in Mu(+ai5 +ut "o #ar5 it $a" "" ntia''& act d on'& a" a "u**ort or!ani"ation )it$ t$ In"titution" doin! (o"t o# t$ (ark tin!. T$ *ro+' ( ) $a% " n i" t$at du to t$ d c ntra'i"ation *o'ic&5 ac$ in"titution $a" (ark tin! 'inka! " (o"t'& in rura' or " (i=ur+an c ntr ". A'"o5 in"titution" on'& (ark t t$ ir o)n *roduct" and in t$ + "t *o""i+' )a& !i% n t$ ir :* ri nc 5 und r"tandin! o# t$ (ark t5 and t$ #und" a''ocat d to t$ ( #or (ark tin! t$ *roduct". T$ (ark tin! "trat !& i" #ra!( nt d5 +& #ra!( ntation5 ) ( an t$at % n i# t$ r ar t)o in"titution" in an ar a5 "$arin! t$ (ark t5 t$ & do not % n tr& to co( to! t$ r to (ark t t$ ir *roduct5 in "*it o# t$ #act t$at it )ou'd + (utua''& + n #icia' and co"t ## cti% #or t$ ( to )ork to! t$ r. Furt$ r5 "a' o# K$adi $a" (o"t'& r 'i d on t$ r +at and t$ $o* t$at * o*' )i'' +u& K$adi on Gand$ian id o'o!& or on t$ #act t$at rura' (*'o&( nt )i'' + ! n rat d +& +u&in! K$adi +ut t$i" i" #ound to + #ictiona' in toda&E" cont :t. For :a(*' to ,uot a Stat Dir ctor5 K-I2 ==== = C2 cau" Gand$i3i $a" rai" d in t$ cont :t o# "ocio=*o'itica'= cono(ic.....)$ic$ (a& or (a& not + #u''& r ' %ant in toda&E" ti( . Lu"t + cau" Gand$i3i #ound

"o( t$in! r ' %ant in 4>E"5 do " not ( an t$at Gand$i3i )ou'd $a% #ound it r ' %ant toda&. H $i(" '# )ou'd $a% #a'' n in trou+' toda&. So & "5 t$at n d i" % r& (uc$ t$ r to addr "" K$adi a" a +u"in ""5 a" a +u"in "" to n$anc to "u"tain rura' (*'o&( nt....<.

406

T$u"5 it i" #ound to + toda&E" n d to (ak K$adi co(* titi% and 'ook at it #ro( +u"in "" an! '. T$at do "nEt " ( to + $a** nin! an&(or . T$ (ark t in t$i" ! n ration i" (or ori nt d to *ric and ,ua'it& o# t$ *roduct. D $a% a'"o o+" r% d t$at " ''in! o# K$adi $a" u* to no) + n "u**'& ori nt d )$ic$ ( an" t$at in"titution" #ir"t *roduc t$ !ood" and t$ n tr& to " '' it. H nc 5 t$ ir "tock" $a% + n *i'in! u*5 + cau" t$ ir *roduct" ar not + in! *roduc d accordin! to t$ d (and. D do und r"tand t$at in ac$i %in! t$ o+3 cti% o# rura' (*'o&( nt t$ *roduction *roc "" cannot + contro'' d +& ( r 'inkin! it to t$ d (and #actor5 $o) % r5 on cannot i!nor t$ co(* titi% (ark t cono(& and t$ r ' %anc o# und r"tandin! t$ d (and "id a"* ct o# t$ *roduct". A'"o5 t$ r $a" not + n (uc$ c$an! in t$ d "i!n5 co'our or t&* o# K$adi r ad&(ad *roduc d +& t$ in"titution "inc t$ inc *tion o# t$ K$adi *ro!ra(( . In"titution" )$ic$ ar und r"tandin! t$ curr nt (ark t "c nario ar no) (akin! "o( att (*t" to (ak *roduct" t$at ar (or +ut t$ " att (*t" ar # ) and )it$out an& ad(ir d "u**ort. T$ r $a" a'"o + n no att (*t to #ind out )$o +u&" K$adi5 )$o i" !oin! to + t$ tar! t con"u( r5 )$at i" t$ r ,uir ( nt and *r # r nc " o# t$ tar! t con"u( r tc. T$i" i" + cau" t$ *roduct ran! i" "o %a"t t$at it co% r" *roduct" #ro( du"t r" to 6 *i c "uit". In #act5 t$ tota' *roduct ran! o# K$adi co( " to a+out 1>>> *roduct". It i" i(* rati% (ana! a+' nu(+ r "o t$at t$ o+3 cti% o# K$adi i. . *roduction o# "a'a+' *roduct" i" ac$i % d. T$ d c'in in "a' " and incr a" in "tock i" a'"o attri+ut d to t$ #act t$at !o% rn( nt a! nci " $a% "to** d *'acin! ord r" )it$ t$ in"titution"5 )$ic$ ar'i r u" d to r '& $ a%i'& on !o% rn( nt +u&in! to di"*o" o# it" *roduct. T$i" "$i#t in #or K$adi to rationa'i7 it" *roduct ran! #ro( 1>>> to a Min< )it$ t$ con"u( r5

!o% rn( nt +u&in! cou'd + du to t$ #act t$at t$ & ar ! ttin! + tt r ,ua'it& at c$ a* r *ric " #ro( '" )$ r . Durin! our int r%i )" )it$ t$ %ariou" in"titution"5 ) )ant d to kno) )$at t$ & t$ink a+out t$ co(* titi% n "" o# t$ *ro!ra(( 5 %i"= N= %i" ot$ r *roduct" in t$ curr nt (ark t "ituation and t$i" i" )$at t$ & $ad to "a& .Ta+' 9.8/. Po"iti% '&5 98 * rc nt o# t$ in"titution" # 't t$at K$adi cou'd co(* t )it$ ot$ r t :ti' " in t$ (ark t. T$ a+o% Ta+' 9.8 indicat " t$at (a3orit& o# t$

in"titution" " ( to t$ink t$at K$adi can + co(* titi% in t$ (ark t5 +ut t$ & " ( 408

to t$ink t$at t$i" )i'' $a** n )it$ (or "u+"id&. In"titution" t$ink t$at t$ "tock *ro+' (" )ou'd + "o'% d i# K-IC cou'd (ana! to " '' t$ ir *roduct" to !o% rn( nt a! nci "5 a!ain in t$ na( o# (*'o&( nt ! n ration. Ta+' 9.8@ Co(* titi% n "" o# K$adi. Can K$adi + co( co(* titi% F" No Can<t "a& Tota' Sourc @ In"titution" ,u "tionnair A'"o5 a#t r $a%in! %i"it d "o( o# t$ "a' " +$andar"5 ) # 't t$at + tt r (aint nanc and *r " ntation o# t$ "$o*" )ou'd $ '* in " ''in! K$adi. And + tt rtrain d "a' " * o*' )it$ inc nti% +a" d "a'ari " )ou'd on'& $ '* t$ cau" . Furt$ r it )a" o+" r% d t$at t$ )a! " *aid to t$ "a' " * r"on" )a" % r& 'o) and #urt$ r t$ & $ad ,uit 'o) ' % '" o# (oti%ation" to " '' K$adi. T$ r co(( ndation in Union +ud! t in 4>>> to " t u* a c ntra' (ark tin! a! nc& )$ic$ 'ook" into a'' t$ a"* ct" o# K$adi (ark tin! #ro( d (and ori nt d d "i!n" to " ''in! it t$rou!$ a c ntra'i" d *roc "" i" ) 'co( and ) ar !'ad t$at t$i" "t * )a" tak n. Mark tin! not on'& ( an" " ''in! to t$ cu"to( r5 )$at t$ con"u( r )ant"5 it a'"o r ,uir " (akin! a con"u( r +u& *roduct" )$ic$ ar "o'd und r +rand na( . In ot$ r )ord" it i" cr atin! d (and #or &our o)n *roduct" rat$ r t$an cr at )$at i" 3u"t d (and d +& t$ con"u( r. I# t$ " ''in! $a" to + (ark t ori nt d in"t ad o# *roduct ori nt d5 t$ n t$ r i" a 'ot o# $o( )ork to + don +& t$ K-IC. In #act t$ " ar *r ciou"'& t$ "trat !i " in %o!u in toda&<" (ark t "c nario. T$u" i# K$adi can + +rand d and t$ n $ a%i'& (ark t d at t$ c ntra' ' % ' t$rou!$ T ' %i"ion and N )"*a* r" )$ic$ $a% (a"" r ac$5 and at t$ in"titution ' % '" i# a (a"" d #in d (ark tin! "trat !& i" u" d5 t$ n it )i'' !o a 'on! )a& in (akin! K$adi a P rc nta! 96.A 41.1 1>.9 1>>.>

co(* titi% *roduct in t$ (ark t.

401

In t r(" o# :*ort o# K$adi5 t$ *ro+' ( #ac d i" t$at du to 'ack o# % nn "" and ,ua'it&5 it i" % r& di##icu't to :*ort K$adi. *o) ri"ation )ou'd tak car o# t$at. 2ut ) # ' t$at T$rou!$ ta'kin! to %ariou" :* rt" and

#or i!n cu"to( r"5 ) # ' t$at t$ r i" a $u! (ark t #or K$adi in #or i!n countri "5 and it i" t$ 3o+ o# t$ K-IC :*ort dir ctorat to $ '* :*ort K$adi. A 'ot o# in"titution" # ' t$at t$ & can :*ort c'ot$5 and ar a'"o a)ar o# %ariou" (ark t" a+road. 2ut t$ & do not kno) t$ "trat !i " and *roc dur " to :*ort. % n 'oca' (ark t5 to ,uot on o# t$ Furt$ r5 in"titution" did not tr& to ca*tur :* rt in K$adi indu"tr& ==== CT$ r "$ou'd + a (ark t "ur% & don in ord r to und r"tand t$ n d" o# 'oca' (ark t. Ioca' r ,uir ( nt" o# t$ (ark t "$ou'd + und r"tood #ir"t5 t$ n co( " t$ int rnationa' (ark t n d". T$ r "$ou'd + 'inka! + t) n *roduction and "a' ". I i""u d a ,u "tionnari to a'' in"titution" )$ r % r

+$andar" ) r t$ r 5 I a"k d t$ ( to )rit do)n t$o" *roduct" )$ic$ do " not $a% r ad& (ark t and $o) (uc$ ,uantit& i" "o'dK I" t$ r * o*' co(in! and d (andin! and !oin! +ack )it$out t$atK 2a" d on t$i" dat ) can !uid *roduc r"<.

I# K-IC i" to "$i#t #ocu" to t$ ur+an and nic$ (ark t" in India and a+road5 t$ n ,ua'it& i" !oin! to + % r& i(*ortant to t$ (. Mor o% r a" Scou'' r Lo$n .1999/ $a" *oint d out5 C!ro)t$ t$ r #or i" not 3u"t a (att r o# incr a"in! a countr&<" ca*acit& to *roduc !ood" +& +ui'din! (or #actori " and (ac$in r&. It i" a+out t$ a'to! t$ r (or di##icu't ta"k o# incr a"in! t$ countri " ca*acit& to ! n rat %a'u +& r "*ondin! a**ro*riat '& to in#or(ation and "i!na'" a+out )$at *ot ntia' con"u( r" %a'u <. Fo''o)in! o# nor(" " t +& A$( da+ad T :ti' R " arc$ A""ociation .ATIRA/ or an& ot$ r a! nc& i(*ro% ( nt in t$ i(*' ( nt" 'ik *uttin! a 3ack=u*=(otion on t$ #ra( ='oo( )$ic$ incr a" " t$ % nn "" and ,ua'it& o# c'ot$ tc. )ou'd a'"o + % r& $ '*#u' in i(*ro%in! ,ua'it&. )ou'd + a !ood "t * #or)ard in t$i" r !ard. A'"o5

A'"o5 at t$ ra) (at ria' "ta! 5 i# t$ in*ut i" o# $i!$ ,ua'it&5 it )i'' d #init '& + carri d #or)ard to t$ #ina' *roduct. T$i" )i'' a'"o "a% )a"ta! 5 (on & and ra) (at ria'. An ana'&"i" o# t$ CIi# c&c' o# t$ *roduct< #or K$adi )a" att (*t d. 2ut a" t$ *roduct ran! in t$ K$adi " ctor i" $i!$ around 1>>>5 ) #ound a 'i(itation t$at it )a" % r& di##icu't to " *arat )$ic$ *roduct" ar in d (and and not. T$ r #or 409

K-IC "$ou'd conduct a *roduct "ur% & and rationa'i7 t$ *roduct" ran! d * ndin! on t$ d (and and $i!$ %a'u addition o# t$ *roduct" and t$i" )i'' a'"o + n #it t$ arti"an<"5 a" t$ & )i'' *roduc t$ *roduct" t$at ar in d (and. 9.6 Mark tin! Iinka! " In"titution" *ro%id a'' t$ ra) (at ria' to "*inn r" and ) a% r" and t$ r ar no int r( diari ". T$ ) a% r "u**'i " t$ #ini"$ d c'ot$ to t$ in"titution. In ## ct t$ )a% r i" tota''& i"o'at d #ro( t$ (ark t. In#or(ation on t$ c$an!in! ta"t " and (ark t *r # r nc " n % r co( " to $i( t$rou!$ t$ in"titution". T$u" ) a% r i" "" ntia''& + in! *aid on'& a )a! #or $i" )ork d * ndin! on $i" out*ut. On o# t$ (o"t %i"i+' #act" a+out ) a% r<" arnin!" i" t$at t$ )a! rat " ar On :tr ( '& 'o).

:*'anation t$at i" o## r d #or 'o) )a! " i" t$at t$ (ark t #or K$adi i" 'i(it d

and d c'inin! and con" ,u nt'& t$ )a! " ar 'o). Furt$ r5 t$ t c$no'o!& o# ) a%in! i" "ti'' rudi( ntar& i. (o"t o# t$ ) a%in! i" don on t$ *it='oo(" +& $o( +a" d ) a% r" )$o ar in (a3orit&5 #ra( ='oo(" ar u" d t$ou!$ to a 'i(it d :t nt in t$ "$ d +a" d ) a%in! +& "o( in"titution" and #or "* cia'i" d *roduct" 'ik Kanc$i%ara( or Pato'a 3ack='oo(" )it$ traditiona' d "i!n" ar u" d. Producti%it& i" t$ r #or 'o)5 and t$ on'& r a"on )$& t$ " *roduct" ar "ur%i%in! i" + cau" o# "tat "u**ort. T$ r 2$a%an" in $i'' and +ord r ar a"5 )$ic$ do " t$ ntir (ark tin! o# K$adi *roduct" .Go% rn( nt o# India5 4>>>/. Mo"t o# t$ " ar "ituat d in t$ (a3or ( tro citi "5 "(a'' and ( diu( to)n". T$u" t$ 'inka! " + t) n t$ "a' " out' t"5 in"titution and ar around 19 D *art( nta' 2$a%an"5 115881 Sa' " out' t"5 11

arti"an" ar ,uit "trai!$t #or)ard or 'in ar. Furt$ r5 t$ r ar no # d=+ack #ro( t$ (ark t out' t" to t$ in"titution" and arti"an" a+out t$ c$an!in! (ark t *att rn". Du to *aucit& o# #und" and +ur aucratic t nd nci " (an& o# t$ in"titution" # 't t$at t$ (ark tin! a""i"tanc *ro%id d +& t$ (ark tin! )in! o# t$ K$adi " ctor i" ,uit *oor and in"u##ici nt. T$u" % r& 'inka! 'ook" (or 'ik a co(*art( nta'i7 d ta"k #u'#i''in! rat$ r t$an an& round a+out 'inka! " )$ic$ # d" +ack into nric$in! t$ ac$ ot$ r. Contrar& to t$i" in a ca" "tud& o# And$ra Prad "$ it )a" #ound t$at $and'oo( ) a%in! .)$ic$ can + co(*ara+' )it$ t$ K$adi ) a%in! " ctor/ )a" in a "tat o# cri" " in T 'an!ana r !ion5 t$ on'& di"trict" )$ r ) a%in! acti%it " $a% c a" d to 400

:i"t ar t$ Na'!onda5 Ma$+u+na!ar and5 to a ' "" r :t nt5 Daran!a'. In a'' t$i" di"trict"5 $i!$'& (ark ta+' 5 %a'u =add d #a+ric" ar + in! *roduc d and t$i" $a" + n t$ (a3or #actor in t$ "ur%i%a' o# $and'oo( ) a%in! $ r .Mukund5 4>>1/. Si(i'ar'&5 )it$in K$adi a'"o ) #ind "o( in"titution"5 )$ic$ ar a+' to co(* t in t$ (ark t and " '' K$adi on *ar )it$ an& ot$ r #or i!n +rand d *roduct" in A$(ada+ad and N ) D '$i. I# )it$in t$ !i% n "tructur "o( in"titution" ar a+' to "ur%i% t$ n ) can + 'i % t$at (ark tin! !ood K$adi *roduct" i" not a c$ronic *ro+' (. It can + tack' d5 on'& t$ (ind=" t o# t$ in"titution" n d" to + c$an! d to t$ curr nt n%iron( nt. 9.8 Cu"to( r Sur% & Data Ana'&"i" H r ) *r " nt t$ data ana'&"i" o# a ,u "tionnair ca*turin! t$ cu"to( r %i )" r !ardin! K$adi (ark tin!5 t$ ir *r # r nc " #or %ari t& o# *roduct"5 t$ ir o*inion r !ardin! cu"to( r car +& t$ "a' "* r"on" and t$ (a3or r a"on" )$ic$ (ak )$i' conductin! t$ "ur% &5 t$ "a(*' "i7 i" % r& 'i(it d and !i% " a +ri # in"i!$t into t$ uti'it& o# K$adi a" %i ) d +& it" cu"to( r". Around A>? o# K$adi *roduct" ar "o'd in ur+an ar a"5 t$at too durin! t$ r +at " a"on. A +ri # *ro#i' o# t$ cu"to( r" "$o)" t$at (o"t o# t$ +u& r" ar ducat d i. .5 a+o% " condar& ducation and t$ ( *r # r K$adi *roduct" o% r ot$ r". Du to 'ack o# cu"to( r"

+ 'on! to +u"in "" or " r%ic " ctor and $a% (ont$'& inco( ran!in! #ro( R".15>>>B= to 4>5>>>B= a+o% and (o"t o# t$ cu"to( r" ) r r !u'ar and "tart d ) arin! K$adi #ro( a 'on! ti( ." Ann :ur 9.1 to 9.6 O 9.1>/.

T$ (o"t "it d ad%anta! " o# ) arin! K$adi ar co(#ortB t :tur 5 "oak" ") at

and 'ook" uni,u and $a" a "tatu" o# it" o)n .Ann :ur 9.8/. D$ n ,u "tion d a+out t$ di"ad%anta! " o# ) arin! K$adi t$ r )a" no uni,u or "i!ni#icant r a"on !i% n :c *t t$at it n d" $i!$ r (aint nanc co"t5 it" not dura+' 5 and it do " not $a% an& !ood ran! B*att rn o# c'ot$ " ." Ann :ur 9.1/. Man& o# t$ cu"to( r" .10.6?/ # 't

t$at t$ *ric o# K$adi )a" $i!$ .Ann :ur 9.0/. Around $a'# o# t$ cu"to( r" # 't t$at t$ ,ua'it& o# K$adi )a" Ok )$ r a" 6A.9 * rc nt # 't t$at t$ r i" a n d to i(*ro% t$ ,ua'it& .Ann :ur 9.A/. Sur*ri"in!'& r +at )a" t$ ' a"t .1.6?/ )a& o# (akin! K$adi Po*u'ar accordin! to cu"to( r" .,uit o**o"it to t$ %i ) o# In"titution"5 around 99.0 * rc nt # 't t$at K$adi can<t + "o'd )it$out r +at . Mo"t o# cu"to( r" # 't t$at "t *" 'ik (or ran! B%ari t& o# K$adi5 ad% rti"in!5 r duction o# *ric "5 (ark tin! and a co(+ination o# a'' a+o% ar n c ""ar& #or (akin! K$adi *o*u'ar .Ann :ur 9.9/. A" r !ardin! #r ,u nc& o# ) arin! K$adi +& t$ cu"to( r" 40A

data r % a' d t$at #or (o"t o# t$ r "*ond nt" K$adi i" an occa"iona' ) ar .89.8?/ and % r& # ) .A.0?/ o# t$ ( r "*ond d t$at t$ & ) ar K$adi r !u'ar'& .Ann :ur 9.14/. Around 86.1 * rc nt cu"to( r" +u& K$adi durin! t$ r +at * riod5 )$ic$ !i% " an indication t$at a 'ar! nu(+ r o# cu"to( r" $a% "o( *r # r nc #or +u&in! durin! r +at * riod .Ann :ur 9.16/. Ma' cu"to( r" $a% *r # r nc #or #or(a' and traditiona' ) ar" )$ r a" # (a' " $a% t$ co(+ination o# t$ t)o a" t$ ir *r # r nc . Ann :ur 9.1A r % a'" t$at cotton O "i'k ar t$ #a%orit *roduct" o# cu"to( r". Co(#ort and $and(ad natur o# K$adi " (" to + t$ * rc i% d di## r nc + t) n K$adi and ot$ r c'ot$ " .Ann :ur 9.19/. T$ (a3or r a"on" id nti#i d #or cu"to( r" ) arin! K$adi ) r #a"$ion5 9.4>/. T$ Gand$ian id o'o!& and co(#ortB'ikin! #or t$ #r ,u nc& o# t$ %i"itor" to t$ 2$andar" r % a'" ,uit a di"(a' *ictur .Ann :ur 9.41/. It a'"o $i!$'i!$t" t$ In"titution". A't$ou!$ K$adi i" a Mono*o'& " '' r (ark t #or it" $and=(ad *roduct"5 )$ic$ i" Eco=#ri nd'& and Gr n. 2ut cu"to( r "ur% & r % a'" t$at t$ " $ard'& ,ua'i#i " to i(*r "" or )oo a co((on cu"to( r to *urc$a" it5 t$ r #or K$adi $a" a 'i(it d (ark t cat rin! to # ) con"u( r" )$o it$ r + 'i % " in K$adi id o'o!& or in t$ !ood ,ua'iti " o# ) arin! cotton c'ot$ ". T$ r #or it i" n c ""ar& to und rtak #urt$ r d tai' d "ur% &" o# t$ con"u( r" to und r"tand t$ ir n d" to (ak it a r a"on" *oor (ark tin! O *ro(otiona' "trat !i " ado*t d +& t$ c'ot$ r "* cti% '& .Ann :ur "ar " and "a')ar ka( 7 and

*o*u'ar *roduct % n i# it i" to cat r to on'& nic$ (ark t".

9.1 Pua'it& O# K$adi Pua'it& i" anot$ r % r& i(*ortant ar a o# conc rn )it$ c$an!in! con"u( r ta"t " and #a"$ion" and ri"in! co(* tition. It i" an i(*ortant #u'cru( to ' % ra! t$ "a' " o# K$adi. H r ) 'ook at t$ ,ua'it& o# K$adi a" o+" r% d durin! our #i 'd %i"it" a'on! t$ %ariou" *roduction "ta! " in%o'% d. T$ r a' ,ua'it& a"* ct o# t$ *roduct" n d" a d tai' d ana'&"i" to + "o( in"i!$t" to und rtak n +& t$ :*'or ,ua'it& ( a"ur ( nt *ro# ""iona'" in t$ t :ti' #i 'd. *roduction *roc "" )i'' !i% Ho) % r a d "cri*tion o# t$ )$at "ta! " o# K$adi

*roduction n d" "o( i(( diat att ntion to i(*ro% it" ,ua'it&. 9.1.1 St * I @ Purc$a" O# Ra) Mat ria'. O+%iou"'&5 ,ua'it& "tart" #ro( $ r . 2 tt r t$ ,ua'it& o# t$ ra) (at ria'5 + tt r i" t$ *urc$a"in! 409 ,ua'it& o# t$ #ini"$ d !ood. Eac$ "tat $a" a r !iona' cotton

co((itt in"titution"

.RCPC/5 )$ic$ inc'ud " K-IC o##icia'" and r *r " ntati% " o# ntir "tat . 2ut in"titution" ar #r to +u& ra)

t$at *urc$a" cotton #or t$ (at ria' #ro( t$ 'oca' (ark t" too. (at ria'

T$u" ac$ "tat do " it" o)n *urc$a"in! o# ra) It )a" a'"o #ound

at di## r nt co"t" and ,ua'it& #o''o)in! t$ co"t=c$art nor(". t$at RCPC cotton )a" in (o"t ca" " (or t$ ,ua'it& )a" (ar!ina''& + tt r. *roc "" " It )a" #ound t$at du

:* n"i% t$an 'oca' (ark t *ric "5 +ut to +ur aucratic

in%o'% d in t$ *urc$a" 5 +& t$ ti( t$ RCPC tak " a d ci"ion to +u& t$ ra) (at ria'5 *ric " )ou'd $a% !on u* in t$ 'oca' (ark t". T$ r #or "u!! "tion i" to +u& it at t$ ri!$t ti( "o t$at t$ r i" no co(*ro(i" on t$ *ric a" ) '' a" ,ua'it&. 9.1.4 St * II @ Pr =Proc ""in! T$i" in%o'% " *roc ""in! o# t$ ra) (at ria' u* to t$ ' % ' )$ r it can t$ n + "*un into &arn. It )a" #ound t$at in"titution" )ou'd it$ r do t$ *r = *roc ""in! t$ (" '% " on t$ " cond=$and %inta! (ac$in " *urc$a" d #ro( t$ r"t)$i' (i''" or ! t it don #ro( *ri%at "'i% r *'ant"5 or dir ct'& +u& t$ *r = *roc "" d ra) (at ria' #ro( t$ C ntra' "'i% r *'ant" .CSP/ " t u* +& t$ K-IC. D #ound t$at ,ua'it& )a" + "t at t$ "'i% r *'ant" " t u* +& K-IC a" co(*ar d to ot$ r "'i% r *'ant" + cau" (ac$in " !i%in! ,ua'it& out*ut a" co(*ar d to t$ in"titution" continu to +u& #ro( out"id du to (on tar& or ot$ r r a"on" )$ic$ n d" to + r cti#i d. 9.1.6 St * III @ S*innin! And D a%in! I t" tak t$ ca" o# a "*inn r )$o "tart" "*innin! at 9 a.(. a#t r a !ood ot$ r (ac$in ". 2ut (o"t t$ CSP (ac$in " ar +rand n )

ni!$t<" "' *. S$ i" #r "$ in t$ (ornin! and i" a+' to "*in % r& ) '' and $ard5 "o t$ &arn *roduc d t$ n i" o# !ood ,ua'it&. 2ut a" t$ da& *a"" "5 and it ! t" $ot +& noon5 t$ "*inn r ! t" tir d5 and t$ r i" a r duction in "tr n!t$ and % nn "" )it$ )$ic$ t$ c$ark$a i" "*un5 $ r t$ r i" d t rioration in t$ ,ua'it& o# &arn. T$i" "a( :a(*' i" a**'ica+' to t$ ) a% r )$o t$rou!$ t$ cour" o# t$ da& )i'' *roduc c'ot$ o# di## r nt ,ua'it&. In #act t$i" i" t$ uni,u # atur o# t$ K$adi indu"tr& du to t$ $and "*innin! and $and ) a%in! natur o# t$ c'ot$. Ho) % r introduction o# *o) r can "o'% t$ *ro+' (" o# % nn "" o# t$ c'ot$ in t$ "*innin! "ta! . Furt$ r5 inno%ation and i(*ro% ( nt in t$ i(*' ( nt" o# ) a%in! 'ik *uttin! a 3ack=u*=

4A>

(otion on t$ #ra( ='oo(5 )$ic$ incr a" " t$ tc.5 )ou'd a'"o + % r& $ '*#u' in i(*ro%in! ,ua'it&. 9.1.8 St * I- @ Po"t Proc ""in! O# T$ Fa+ric

% nn "" and ,ua'it& o# c'ot$

T$i" "t * in%o'% " (akin! o# t$ #ini"$ d=!ood"5 )$ic$ )i'' #ina''& + "o'd.. D "i!nin!5 d& in!5 "titc$in! and #ini"$in! o# t$ *roduct" i" i(*ortant + cau" t$ #ini"$ d !ood i" )$at t$ cu"to( r " ". Ho) (uc$ % r t$ ,ua'it& o# &arn and c'ot$5 i# t$ co'our #ad " a)a& #a"t r #ro( t$ c'ot$ or i# t$ "titc$in! i" *oor5 t$ n t$ *roduct i" not !oin! to + "o'd. So #ini"$in! ,ua'it& o# t$ *roduct i" a'"o % r& i(*ortant5 ) #ound t$at *o"t= *roc ""in! i" u"ua''& ' #t to t$ in"titution"5 )$o accordin! to t$ ir und r"tandin! o# t$ (ark t d cid on )$at to *roduc and accordin!'& *roc "" it. Mo"t 'ar! in"titution" $ad t$ ir o)n d& in! unit"5 and t$o" )$o did not5 )ou'd !i% it to c rti#i d in"titution". Furt$ r5 In"titution" $ir d t$ ir o)n tai'or" to (ak t$ #ini"$ d r ad&(ad !ar( nt". Ho) % r no !ood ,ua'it& (ark t "ur% &" ar und rtak n to und r"tand t$ n d" o# t$ con"u( r". It )a" #ound t$at (o"t o# t$ in"titution" ) r not a)ar o# an& R O D acti%it& und rtak n +& t$ K-IC indicatin! t$at t$ r :i"t" in#or(ation di"" (ination

+ott' n ck + t) n K-IC and t$ in"titution". Man& in"titution" $a% n % r introduc d an& inno%ation in ,ua'it&5 d "i!n or *att rn5 a" t$ r i" no *r ""ur to inno%at . So( in"titution" did introduc 5 i(*ro% d d "i!nB*att rn a'on! )it$ o* nin! o# +$andar" and "a' " out' t". 2ut t$ r i" a 'ot o# ti( 'a! + t) n

inno%ation and actua' i(*' ( ntation and t$at too (o"t'& irr !u'ar. T$ r #or K-IC n d" to + a #aci'itator in *ro%idin! i(*ro% d d "i!nB*att rn5 +ut it" ro' )i'' +

,ua'itati% '& n$anc d i# in"titution" a'"o tak u* "o( (or initiati% in t$i" *roc "". K-IC a'"o n d" to ti u* )it$ :t rna' a! nci " in%o'% d in t$i" ar a 'ik NID tc.5 "o t$at t$ r i" an :c$an! o# id a" and #'o) o# in#or(ation a+out c$an!in! (ark t "c nario.

An 'a+orat di"cu""ion )it$ t$ NID :* rt"5 a""ociat d )it$ t$ K$adi d "i!nin! )ork5 r % a' d t$at K$adi $a" an int rnationa' (ark t5 a" it i" t$ "o' *roduc r o# c'ot$ + 'o) 4> count . :i"t nc o# Ca*acit&/. E:*ort o# "uc$ c'ot$ cou'd + (ad *o""i+' )it$ *ro* r d "i!nin! and d& in! to "uit t$ int rnationa' "tandard". T$ & a'"o # ' t$at t$ uni,u n "" o# K$adi i" it" $and "*un and $and )o% n

4A1

c$aract ri"tic". NID5 on r ,u "t o# K-IC5 $a" *r *ar d a**ro*riat d "i!n" and d&in! to c' ar t$ "tock #ro( *a"t 1> & ar". 2ut t$ r " (" to + no uti'i"ation o# t$ )ork und rtak n it$ r du to 'ack o# #und" or co((it( nt #ro( +ot$ in"titution" and t$ K-IC. T$ c'ot$ ,ua'it& c$ ckin! and "tandardi7ation nor(" #o''o) d +& t$ K-IC unit" ar ,uit rudi( ntar& and *oor. I# K-IC i" to "$i#t #ocu" to t$ ur+an and nic$ (ark t" in India and a+road5 t$ n ,ua'it& i" !oin! to + % r& i(*ortant to t$ (. Fo''o)in! t$ ,ua'it& "tandard or nor(" " t +& ATIRA or an& ot$ r a! nc& )ou'd + a !ood "t * #or)ard in t$i" r !ard. Mo"t o# t$ co((oditi " accordin! to t$ ir und r"tandin! o# t$ (ark t and :* ct it to + "o'd in t$ na( o# r +at or Gand$i3i. O% r t$ & ar" continu " *i'in!=u* o# "tock "* ak" %o'u( " a+out t$ *oor und r"tandin! o# t$ (ark t "ituation +& t$ in"titution". In #act t$ *o"t *roc ""in! "ta! n d" a tota' #ac ='i#t i# K$adi $a" to d % 'o* in #utur . in"titution" *roduc

9.9 E( r!in! T :ti'

Mark tin! Strat !i " In T$

G'o+a'i"in! Era And It"

I(*'ication For K$adi Mark tin! R c nt c$an! " in G'o+a' ! o!ra*$ica' tr nd" in t$ *roduction o# t :ti' " and !ar( nt" "$o) a c' ar *att rn o# t$ continuin! r 'ati% .and5 in "o( ca" "5 a+"o'ut / d c'in o# d % 'o* d countr& *roduc r" and a ! o!ra*$ica' "$i#t o# *roduction to c rtain to c rtain d % 'o*in! countri "5 nota+'& in Ea"t A"ia and5 to a ' "" r :t nt5 in M :ico5 t$ Cari++ an5 Ea"t rn Euro* and "o( *art" o# t$ M dit rran an ri(. Dor'd t :ti' " :*ort" ar do(inat d +& A"ia .*ri(ari'& Ea"t A"ia/ and D "t rn Euro* . To! t$ r t$ " account #or (or t$an A> * r c nt o# t$ tota' and !ar( nt :*ort" around 01 * rc nt .Dick n5 4>>6/. 9.9.1 C$an!in! Patt rn" O# D (and For T :ti' Product"

D (and i" a #unda( nta' in#'u nc on t$ "i7 5 or!ani7ation and 'ocation o# t$ t :ti' " and !ar( nt" indu"tri " in di## r nt *art" o# t$ )or'd. So( 1> * r c nt o# a'' t :ti' " *roduction !o " to t$ !ar( nt" indu"tr&5 t$ (a3or in#'u nc on t$ d (and #or t :ti' " i" t$ d (and #or !ar( nt". It i" t$ a##'u nt *art" o# t$ )or'd t$at 'ar! '& d t r(in t$ ' % ' and t$ natur o# t$ d (and #or !ar( nt". T$ ! n ra''& 'o) inco( " in d % 'o*in! countri " c' ar'& r "trict t$ "i7 o# t$ ir do( "tic !ar( nt" (ark t". T$ con% ntiona' cono(ic )i"do( "a&" t$at5 + &ond t$ ' % ' o# +a"ic n c ""iti "5 d (and #or !ar( nt" incr a" " ' "" ra*id'& t$an t$ 4A4

!ro)t$ o# inco( ". T$i" *o" " a (a3or *ro+' ( #or !ar( nt" (anu#actur r" and r tai' r"@ t$ & n d to "ti(u'at d (and t$rou!$ #a"$ion c$an! . Enor(ou"

:* nditur $a" !on into *ro(otin! #a"$ion *roduct" and cr atin! Cd "i!n r< 'a+ '". Suc$ a *ractic co% r" a % r& +road "* ctru( o# con"u( r inco( ' % '" #ro( t$ :c *tiona''& :* n"i% to t$ r 'ati% '& c$ a*. a d %ic to di## r ntiat )$at ar o#t n r 'ati% '& "i(i'ar *roduct" and to cat r to = and to ncoura! = t$ " !( ntation o# (ark t d (and #or !ar( nt" .Dick n5 4>>6/. T$ T :ti' Indu"tr& in India $a" !on t$rou!$ "i!ni#icant c$an! " in antici*ation o# incr a" d int rnationa' co(* tition. T$ indu"tr& $a" + n #orc d to tai'or *roduct" to +ot$ t$ do( "tic and t$ int rnationa' (ark t )$ic$ $a% traditiona''& + n ,uit di## r nt. T$ do( "tic (ark t $a" $u! *ot ntia' +ut i" a'"o % r& *ric *roduction )$i' a'"o (*$a"i7in! ,ua'it& " r%ic and *ric o# *roduction. India $a" t$ a+i'it& to co(* t on t$ !'o+a' "ca' +ut it i" 'o"in! (ark t "$ar to A"ian countri " t$at $a% c$ a* r 'a+or5 + tt r in% "t( nt in (ac$in r& and ca*ita'5 and + tt r oc an tran"*ortation o*tion" #or :*ort to t$ U.S. D$i' it" (ark t "$ar $a" c rtain'& incr a" d o% r t$ 'a"t d cad 5 India "ti'' 'a!" + $ind countri " 'ik C$ina t$at $a% " n *$ no( na' !ro)t$ in r c nt & ar". Ho) % r5 India co(*arati% ad%anta! #or " r%in! d (and in t$ Euro* an Union .Car% r 2rian5 H C$ri"t&5 Hi"t r Lona$5 4>>8/. n3o&" a "i(i'ar " n"iti% )$ r a" t$ int rnationa' (ark t t nd" to #a%or (a"" D "i!n r 'a+ 'in! i" +a"ica''&

In toda&<" #a"t c$an!in! n%iron( nt t$ curr nt n!in " o# (ark t !ro)t$ #or t :ti' " in India ar 5 ri"in! "$ar o# )orkin! *o*u'ation5 $i!$ r di"*o"a+' inco( " )it$ t$ cr dit a%ai'a+i'it&5 #a"t c$an!in! con"u( r 'i# "t&' " and +rand a"*iration" .Kau' -i3a&54>>8/. Furt$ r t$ r i" a ri" o# di"*o"a+' inco( a" t$ a% ra! GDP !ro)t$ rat i" around "i: * rc nt and * o*' )it$ t$ $i!$ r di"*o"a+' inco( " *r # r t$ !ood %ari t& o# t$ c'ot$ and ar r ad& to *a& #or t$ $i!$ *ric d *roduct" .Mukund 4>>15 Na!ara3 199A/. 9.9.4 Ri"in! I(*ortanc O# Cotton Product"@ Gr n I" In T$ r $a" + n tr ( ndou" !ro)t$ in ( (+ r"$i* o# !r n !rou*" in t$ )or'd "uc$ a" Gr n * ac 5 Fri nd" o# t$ Eart$ tc. T$ " * o*' ar conc rn d a+out t$ n%iron( nt and ar )i''in! to *a& a *r (iu( #or !ood" and " r%ic " t$at 4A6 !ro)in! Indian (idd' c'a""5 incr a" in *ri%at con"u(*tion5

t$ & + 'i % $a% a r duc d n%iron( nta' i(*act co(*ar d to con% ntiona' *roduct". Toda& in t$ cor*orat )or'd5 Tri*' 2otto( Iin i" u" d to d "cri+ co(*an& accounta+i'it& not on'& in #inancia' t r(" to "$ar $o'd r" and in% "tor" +ut a'"o in "ocia' t r(" .!. acc *tanc +& t$ co((uniti " in )$ic$ t$ #ir( o* rat "5 and in n%iron( nta' t r(" +& a"" ""in! t$ i(*act on t$ t$ *roduct" t$at t$ #ir( " ''" .Ea"ton5 R Lo$n.5 4>>8/. Con"u( r :* ctation" o# co(*an& + $a%ior $a% incr a" d and not on'& in t$ ric$ GA countri " +ut a'"o in (an& ot$ r *art" o# t$ )or'd. In a Mi'' nniu( Po'' in 46 countri " 9>? o# 415>>> con"u( r" "aid t$ & :* ct d +u"in "" " to tack' t$ i""u " o# #air 'a+our *ractic "5 +u"in "" in addition to d 'i% rin! *ro#it" and 3o+". O% r t$ 'a"t 1> & ar" t$ d % 'o*( nt o# %ariou" and n%iron( nta' acc *ta+i'it& o# a *articu'ar *roduct5 $a" rai" d t$ *ro#i' o# n%iron( nta' i""u " )it$in t$ t :ti' c$ain. R c nt'& t$ r $a" + n a ra*id u*tak o# ISO18>>1 +& (anu#actur r" in A"ia a" a ( an" o# a""urin! Euro* an and N.A( rican *rocur ( nt (ana! r" o# t$ .Ea"ton5 R Lo$n.5 4>>8/. I(*ortanc o# Cotton and d (and #or or!anic *roduct" i" on a ri" and India + in! on o# t$ !'o+a' *'a& r" n d" to 'ook + &ond t$ $ori7on" and :*and t$ (ark t .Ii n rt5 4>>8/. T$ !'o+a' +u& r" )ou'd not *r # r to *ut t$ ir "ourcin! #ro( on 'ar! countr& 'ik C$ina. T$ !'o+a' +u& r" )ou'd a'"o +a'anc t$ ir ri"k o# "ourcin! #ro( on countr& on'&5 t$ r #or d (and #or Indian t :ti' " )i'' not di(ini"$ "o a" :* ct d in t$ *o"t 'i+ ra'i7ation ra .Lo"$i5 4>>8/. T$ r #or 'ookin! at t$ curr nt tr nd" in t$ (ark t "c nario it i" ,uit $a" a 'ot o# c$anc a" t$ #utur (ark t 'i " in t$ %id nt t$at t$ K$adi co #ri nd'& cotton *roduct". n%iron( nta' *ro+it& o# t$ ir o* ration" co='a+ ''in! "c$ ( "5 d "i!n d to a""ur con"u( r" o# t$ "a# t& t$ic" and n%iron( nta' d !radation n%iron( nt o# t$ #ir(<" o)n acti%iti " or t$ acti%iti " o# t$ (anu#acturin! c$ain )$ic$ "u**'i "

Furt$ r5 Cri'' Ro" (ar& .4>>4/ A " nior curator in=c$ar! o# t$ t :ti' " co'' ction in t$ Indian and Sout$=Ea"t A"ian D *art( nt "a&"@ CHand'oo(" can + r %i% d and "u"tain d in India +& t$ !o% rn( nt a!!r ""i% '& cr atin! (ark t" #or it )it$in t$ countr& and *ro%idin! d "i!n in*ut" #or ) a% r"<.

9.9.6 E( r!in! T c$no'o!i " In Mod rn T :ti' Product" A" a!ain"t "&nt$ tic" #i+ r" )$ic$ cau" n%iron( nta' d !radation5 #i+ r"

)it$ r n )a+' ra) (at ria'" i" a #uturi"tic out'ook o# #i+ r Indu"tr&. E:a(*' " o# "uc$ c'ot$ " ar a'r ad& in %o!u 'ik t :ti' #i+ r #ro( "u!arcan rind5 "o3a *rot in 4A8

#i+ r" o# C$ina5 (ai7 .2ru ck(ann5 Ra'#.5 4>>8/. !r a" 5

#i+ r5 corn #i+ r inc'udin! "i'k #ro( +a(+oo

tc.

Furt$ r )it$ t c$no'o!ica' ad%anc c'ot$ " *r *ar d to + anti=

)rink' #r 5 U.-. *rot ct d5 anti=+act ria'5 "kin=carin! "u+"tanc " %ita(in" 'ik .E5 C/ tc. ar !oin! to + Cin t$in!< in #utur . 9.9.8 I(*ortanc O# Fa"$ion D "i!nin! Con"u( r" )ant c'ot$ " t$at (i: and (atc$ and a"& to ) ar #or % r&da& )ork. Fa"$ion $a" "*r ad to r a"ona+' nu(+ r o# cu"to( r"5 co"t i" no (or a con"traint. Indian d "i!n r" 'ik t$ count r*art" '" )$ r ar tr&in! to ada*t to cu"to( r<" "ocia' and cono(ica' r a'iti " and $a% *roduct" at r a"ona+' %o'% d to o## r + tt r ,ua'it& rat ". Furt$ r Incr a" d *artici*ation o# Indian

Fa"$ion D "i!n r" in Int rnationa' Fa"$ion S$o)" i" :* ct d to incr a" Indian E:*ort" too .Nika(5 S$arada.5 4>>8/. 9.9.1 T$ Gro)in! Po) r O# T$ R tai'in! C$ain" Dit$in t$ !ar( nt" indu"tr&5 in *articu'ar5 d (and i" + co(in! incr a"in!'& do(inat d +& t$ *urc$a"in! *o'ici " o# t$ (a3or (u'ti*' r tai'in! c$ain". In t$ Unit d Stat "5 +i! co(*ani " "uc$ a" Da'=Mart5 S ar"5 L.C. P nn &5 Da&ton Hud"on and K. Mart5 account #or a % r& 'ar! *ro*ortion o# !ar( nt" "a' "5 a" do Dai i5 Mit"uko"$i5 Dai(aru and Ito Fakado in La*an5 in G r(an&5 t$ ' adin! !ar( nt" r tai' r" inc'ud Kar"tadt5 Kau#$o#5 Sc$ick ndan7 .2ad$ 5 4>>8/. Product *ro'i# ration and "$ort r *roduct c&c' "5 r #' ct d in % r=c$an!in! "t&' " and *roduct di## r ntiation5 contri+ut to ! n ra' d (and unc rtaint& #or +ot$ r tai' r" "u**'& and (anu#actur r"5 t$ r +& (akin! d (and #or ca"tin! and *roduction *'annin! $ard r % r& da&. In a )or'd )$ r (anu#actur r" (u"t ' ( nt"5 "* d and

an incr a"in! nu(+ r o# *roduct" )it$ #a"$ion

#' :i+i'it& ar crucia' ca*a+i'iti " #or #ir(" )r "t'in! )it$ *roduct *ro'i# ration5 )$ t$ r t$ & ar r tai' r" tr&in! to o## r a )id ran! o# c$oic " to con"u( r" or (anu#actur r" r "*ondin! to r tai' d (and" #or "$i*( nt". Furt$ r5 #ro( t$ 'at 19A><" on)ard"5 co(*ani " "uc$ a" Pu ''o5 Otto5 St i'(ann and Kar"tadt O N ckar(ann5 .2ad$ 5 4>>8/. UK r tai' r Mark" O S* nc r tc. d % 'o* d "tandard" or n%iron( nta' cod o# *ractic nco(*a""in! t$ )$o' o# it" t :ti' " +u"in ""

4A1

9.9.9 C$an!in! T :ti' " Sc nario And I(*'ication" For K$adi D$at ar t$ I(*'ication" #or K$adi Indu"tr& in t$ c$an!in! t :ti'

"c narioK Scou'' r Lo$n .1999/ # '" t$at5 !ro)t$ o# a countr& in%o'% " i(*ro%in! *roduction ##ici nc&5 or!ani7ationa' ## cti% n ""5 d % 'o*in! i(*ro% d *roduct"5 #indin! n ) (ark t"5 #indin! a n ) "ourc o# "u**'&5 or a co(+ination o# t$ " t$in!". P r nnia' Pot ntia' )a" t$ *$ra" u" d +& Martand "in!$5 a ) ''

kno)n "c$o'ar in%o'% d )it$ cra#t" and cu'tur in India5 t$ " t)o *$ra" " a*t'& d "cri+ t$ $andicra#t" d % 'o*( nt in India5 and ca*tur t$ #ru"tration" o# t$o" )$o )ork in t$ r 'at d ar a". T$ *ot ntia' i" a')a&" and $a" + n5 nor(ou". In t$ 199>"5 #or :a(*' $andicra#t" ( r! d a" a (a3or :*orta+' #ro( India. In i!$t & ar"5 1996= 4>>>5 t$ "ca' o# $andicra#t and $and'oo( :*ort" incr a" d #ro( a+out R".6> +i''ion to R".1>> +i''ion .Ii +' and Tirt$ankar Ro&5 4>>6/. K$adi a'"o #ac " "i(i'ar "ituation a" ot$ r traditiona' indu"tri " t$ou!$ it do " not :*ort (uc$. Mark tin! "trat !i " ado*t d +& In"titution" ar ,uit na;% . T$ *oor cu"to( r turn o% r in t$ K$adi +$andar" durin! non=r +at * riod c' ar'& "$o)" t$at K$adi i" ,uit *oor'& (ark t d. Dit$ !ro)in! d (and #or Gr n Product"5 #a"$ion d "i!nin! and ri" *o"iti% in i(*ortanc #or cotton5 K$adi n d" to 'ook at t$ " n c ""ar& "t *" to ada*t to t$ c$an!in! (ark t "i!na'" and tak

"ituation". In t$i" r !ard "t *" to)ard" 2rand +ui'din! and cr atin! nic$ (ark t" #or "* cia'i" d *roduct" o# K$adi ar co(*on nt"5 )$ic$ cannot + ' #t out. Anot$ r "t * i" to *ro(ot K$adi t$rou!$ r tai' c$ain". It $a" t)o ad%anta! " #ir"t it "a% " t$ +urd n and co"t o# in"titution" in (ark tin! K$adi. S cond'& in"titution" can no) #ocu" on t$ *roduction o# (ark ta+' *roduct". A" t$ r i" no *r ""ur on In"titution" to inno%at and c$an! t$ *roduct d "i!n. T$ r #or K-IC n d" to + a #aci'itator in *ro%idin! i(*ro% d n$anc d i# 'ar! in"titution" a'"o

d "i!nB*att rn. Furt$ r5 K-IC ro' )i'' +

und rtak initiati% " in t$i" *roduct and *roc "" inno%ation". K-IC a'"o n d" to ti u* )it$ :t rna' a! nci " in%o'% d in t$i" ar a 'ik NID tc.5 "o t$at t$ r i" an :c$an! o# id a" and #'o) o# in#or(ation a+out c$an!in! (ark t "c nario.

9.0 Su((ar& And Conc'u"ion"

Mark tin! "trat !i " ado*t d +& In"titution" ar ,uit na;% . T$ a(ount a''ocat d to (ark t t$ ot$ r 4A9 *roduct in co"t=c$art i" a'"o ( a! r co(*ar d to

$and'oo( t :ti' ". Co"t=c$art n d" to + (ad (or #' :i+' #or t$ in"titution" to $a% t$ #r do( to !o + &ond t$ :i"tin! 'i(itation" to i(*ro% t$ ,ua'it& and t$ "a'a+i'it& o# K$adi. T$ on'& co(*on nt t$at r ,uir " to + r tain d i" t$ )a! co(*on nt to *ro%id d c nt )a! " to t$ arti"an". T$ r #or t$ r i" a !r at r n d #or takin! u* (ark tin! "trat !i " ,uit " riou"'& and co''a+oration a(on! in"titution"5 K-IC Mark tin! d *art( nt and "tat K-I2" i" a (u"t #or "ur%i%in! t$ on"'au!$t o# co(* tition. Cu"to( r "ur% & data r % a' d t$at r +at )a" ' a"t i(*ortant #or a r !u'ar +u& r o# K$adi. D$at i" r ,uir d i" t$ i(*ro%in! ,ua'it& and d "i!n *att rn to "uit t$ c$an!in! cu"to( r n d". T$ "a' " * r"on" in Mark tin! 2$andar" n d to + train d (or *ro# ""iona''& to +oo"t t$ "a' o# K$adi. Furt$ r5 r !u'ar in= d *t$ "ur% &" o# cu"to( r" to u*!rad t$ "a' o# K$adi i" t$ n d o# t$ $our. Mark tin! 'inka! " ar #ound to + *oor a(on! t$ arti"an"5 in"titution" and K-IC a" t$ in#or(ation #'o) r !ardin! c$an!in! con"u( r ta"t "5 d "i!n" and co(* tition i" a'(o"t a+" nt. T$i" a"* ct n d" #urt$ r "tr n!t$ nin!. It i" i(* rati% #or K$adi to rationa'i7 it" *roduct ran! #ro( 1>>> to a (ana! a+' nu(+ r "o t$at t$ o+3 cti% o# K$adi i. . *roduction o# C"a'a+' *roduct"< i" ac$i % d. T$ c'ot$ ,ua'it& c$ ckin! and "tandardi7ation nor(" #o''o) d +& t$ K-IC unit" ar ,uit rudi( ntar& and *oor. I# K-IC i" to "$i#t #ocu" to t$ ur+an and nic$ (ark t" in India and a+road5 t$ n ,ua'it& i" !oin! to + % r& i(*ortant to t$ (. Fo''o)in! t$ ,ua'it& "tandard or nor(" " t +& ATIRA or an& ot$ r a! nc& )ou'd + a !ood "t * #or)ard in t$i" r !ard. Introduction o# *o) r can "o'% t$ *ro+' (" o# % nn "" o# c'ot$ in t$ "*innin! "ta! . Furt$ r5 inno%ation and i(*ro% ( nt in t$ i(*' ( nt" o# ) a%in! 'ik *uttin! a 3ack=u*=(otion on t$ #ra( ='oo(5 )$ic$

incr a" " t$ in

% nn "" and ,ua'it& o# c'ot$ tc.5 )ou'd a'"o + % r& $ '*#u'

i(*ro%in! ,ua'it&. It )a" #ound t$at (o"t o# t$ in"titution" ) r not a)ar o# an& R O D acti%it& und rtak n +& t$ K-IC indicatin! t$at t$ r :i"t" in#or(ation di"" (ination

+ott' n ck + t) n K-IC and t$ in"titution". Man& in"titution" $a% n % r introduc d an& inno%ation in ,ua'it&5 d "i!n or *att rn5 a" t$ r i" no *r ""ur to inno%at . 2ut t$ r i(*' ( ntation and t$at too (o"t'& irr !u'ar. T$ r #or K-IC n d" to + a #aci'itator in *ro%idin! i(*ro% d d "i!nB*att rn. Furt$ r5 K-IC ro' )i'' + n$anc d i# 'ar! in"titution" 4A0 i" a 'ot o# ti( 'a! + t) n inno%ation and actua'

a'"o und rtak initiati% " in *roduct and *roc "" inno%ation". K-IC a'"o n d" to ti u* )it$ :t rna' a! nci " in%o'% d in t$i" ar a 'ik NID tc.5 "o t$at t$ r i" an :c$an! o# id a" and #'o) o# in#or(ation a+out c$an!in! (ark t "c nario. Dit$ !ro)in! i(*ortanc o# Gr n Product"5 #a"$ion d "i!nin! and ri" in i(*ortanc #or cotton5 K$adi n d" to 'ook at t$ " *o"iti% "i!na'" and tak n c ""ar& "t *" to +oo"t it" ,ua'it& and "a'a+i'it& o# t$ *roduct. In t$i" r !ard "t *" to)ard" C2rand +ui'din!< and cr atin! nic$ (ark t" #or "* cia'i" d *roduct" o# K$adi ar co(*on nt"5 )$ic$ cannot + ' #t out. Anot$ r "t * i" to *ro(ot K$adi t$rou!$ Cr tai' c$ain"<. It $a" t)o ad%anta! " #ir"t it "a% " t$ +urd n and co"t o# in"titution" in (ark tin! K$adi. S cond'& in"titution" can no) #ocu" on t$ *roduction o# C(ark ta+' *roduct"<.

4AA

Ann :ur 9 = Mark tin! Ann :ur 9.1@ Education )i" Di"tri+ution o# Cu"to( r". Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. 0. Education I % ' Pri(ar& Midd' S condar& H.S.C. Graduat Po"t Graduat An& ot$ r Tota' P rc nt 8> 9.0 16.6 19.> 6A.0 10.6 8.> 1>>.>

Sourc @ For t$ #o''o)in! Ta+' " i" Cu"to( r<" ,u "tionnair . Ann :ur 9.4@ Occu*ation )i" Di"tri+ution o# Cu"to( r". Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. Occu*ation 'i"t S r%ic 2u"in "" Hou" =)i# Un (*'o& d An& ot$ r Stud nt Tota' P rc nt 89.0 1A.0 19 1.6 14 1.6 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.6@ Mont$'& Inco( )i" Di"tri+ution o# Cu"to( r. Sr. No. 1. 4. Inco( Ran! I "" t$an 4>>> 4>>>=1>>> P rc nt 4.9 44.1 4A9

6. 8. 1. 9. 0.

1>>1=1>>>> 1>>>1=11>>> 11>>1=4>>>> 4>>>1 O a+o% No r *'& Tota'

66.A 16.4 1.9 4>.9 1.1 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.8@ Ad%anta! " o# D arin! K$adi. Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. 0. A. 9. 1>. 11. 14. 16. 18. 11. 19. 10. 1A. 19. R a"on" E:*r "" d Co(#ortBt :tur Iook" uni,u B"tatu" Soak" ") at Ea"& )a"$in! Gand$i *rinci*' " No r *'& For co(#ort and "tatu" Iook" uni,u and dura+' For co(#ort and a"& )a"$in! Dura+' and !i%in! 3u"tic to arti"an" art Soak" ") at and #or $ '*in! arti"an" Good to ) ar and "oak" ") at Iook" uni,u and Hand(ad Good to ) ar5 'ook" uni,u and $and(ad For co(#ort5 "oak" ") at and dura+' Co(#orta+' and dura+' Good to ) ar and $and(ad Si'k ,ua'it& Si'k ,ua'it& i" !ood5 it" a%ai'a+' on P rc nt 44.0 9.0 41.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1>.0 4.0 4.0 1.6 1.6 4.0 4.0 1.6 1.6 4.0 1.6 1.6 1.6

49>

cr dit Tota' Ann :ur 9.1@ Di"ad%anta! " in D arin! K$adi. Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. 0. A. 9. 1>. 11. 14. 16. 18. 11. 19. R a"on" :*r "" d Not$in! 2adBrou!$ #ini"$ N d (aint nanc No ran! B*att rn" Not dura+' E:* n"i% No r *'& No %ari t& in co'our and no !ood ,ua'it& o# (at ria' Co"t'& (aint nanc and non dura+' Un % n c'ot$5 ) ak "tructur Un % n c'ot$ and not !ood co'our" Not a"& acc ""i+' So( ti( " d # cti% and :* n"i% N d" (aint nanc and :* n"i% E:* n"i% and (at ria' ,ua'it& not !ood No %ariation in *att rnBd "i!n and :* n"i% Tota' P rc nt 4A.> 1.6 18.0 9.0 1>.0 9.6 A.> 4.0 4.0 1.6 4.0 4.0 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1>>.> 1>>.>

491

Ann :ur 9.9@ Di'' t$ Cu"to( r" -i"it t$ 2$andar" i# it i" Iocat d Con% ni nt'&K Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8.

R a"on" F" No No r *'& NA Tota'

P rc nt 88.> 4>.> 16.6 44.0 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.0@ Ar t$ Cu"to( r" Sati"#i d )it$ Pric o# K$adiK Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. Pric i" - r& $i!$BS$ou'd + ' "" *ric d No r *'& F "BOk Tota' P rc nt 10.6 9.8 66.6 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.A@ Ar t$ Cu"to( r" Sati"#i d )it$ Pua'it& o# K$adiK Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1.

R a"on" :*r "" d PoorBcan + i(*ro% d Maint nanc o# c'ot$ $i!$ 1J4 .Pua'it& can + i(*ro% d and (aintainanc not a##orda+' / No r *'& F "BOk Tota'

P rc nt 6A.0 1.6 1.6 9.0 14.> 1>>.>

494

Ann :ur 9.9@ Su!! "tion" #or Makin! K$adi Po*u'arK Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. 0.

R a"on" E:*r "" d Ad% rti" ( nt R duc *ric Mark tin! Mor ran! B%ari t& Mi: t ricot A co(+ination o# a'' t$ a+o% #i% Mor r +at Tota'

P rc nt 9.0 9.6 4.0 4>.> 1.6 1A.0 1.6 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.1>@ P rc nta! Di"tri+ution o# K$adi U" r" #ro( Di## r nt F ar". Sr. No. 1. 4. 6. 8. 1. 9. 0. A. 9. 1>. 11. 1=1 9=1> 11=11 19=4> 41=41 49=1> So( ti( " a!o Man& & ar" a!o Sinc c$i'd$ood Actua' no. o# cu"to( r" P rc nta! D$ n did &ou "tart ) arin! K$adi .in F ar"/

P rc nta! 18.9 44.8 16.8 9.> 8.1 6.> 6.> 9.> 4>.9 99.> 1>>?

496

Ann :ur 9.11@ Fr ,u nc& o# -i"it" to K$adi 2$andar" A(on! Di## r nt Inco( Grou*" o# Cu"to( r". Ho) o#t n do &ou %i"it K$adi 2$andar Onc in a & ar T)ic in a & ar T$ric in a & ar Four O a+o% D$ n I %i"it India .#or i!n cu"to( r"/ Actua' no. o# cu"to( r" P rc nta! )it$in .4.9/ .46.4/ .66.6/ .11.9/ .0.4/ .4>.6/ .1>>?/ 4 19 46 A 1 18 99 6.0 60.> = = = = = 1>> 44.4 0.8 0.8 44.4 = = 1>.> 1>.> = = == 18.6 9.0 4>.> 66.6 9.0 = 49.0 80.9 18.6 18.6 9.1 Q4>> > .* rc nta! / Mont$'& Inco( o# Cu"to( r" in Ru* " 4>>> 1= 1>>> 1>>1= 1>5>>> 1>5>>1 = 115>>> 11>>1= 4>5>>> 4>5>>1= O a+o% Actua' no. o# cu"to( r" and ? )it$in 41 .6>.8/ 11 .41.0/ 4 .4.9/ 40 .69.1>/ 4 .4.9/

498

Ann :ur 9.14@ Fr ,u nc& o# K$adi U" A(on! di## r nt Inco( Grou*" o# Cu"to( r". .* rc nta! / Ho) o#t n do &ou ) ar K$adi Occa"iona''& R !u'ar'& O#t n So( ti( " Gi#tin! to So( on For #ir"t ti( ) arin! K$adi On'& in Su(( r Actua' no. o# cu"to( r" Tota' * rc nta! Q4>> > = 19.0 1.9 = = = = 4 4.9 4>>> 1= 1>>> 11.9 66.6 88.8 = = 1>> = 19 46.4 Mont$'& Inco( o# Cu"to( r" in Ru* " 1>>1= 1>5>>> 68.8 19.0 11.1 9>.> = = 1>> 46 66.6 1>5>>1 = 115>>> 14.1 19.0 1.9 4>.> 1>> = = A 11.9 11>>1= 4>5>>> 9.8 = 1.9 4>.> = = = 1 0.4 4>5>>1= Actua' no. o# O a+o% 41.> 19.0 40.A = = = = 18 4>.6 cu"to( r" and ? )it$in 64 .89.8>/ 9 .A.0/ 1A .49.1/ 1 .0.4/ 1 .1.8/ 1 .1.8/ 4 .4.9/ .99/ 1>>?

491

Ann :ur 9.16@ Inco( )i" Di"tri+ution o# Cu"to( r" 2u&in! K$adi Durin! R +at P riod. .#i!ur " in * rc nta! /

Mont$'& Inco( o# Cu"to( r" in Ru* " D$ n do &ou +u& K$adi Q4>> > 6.6 = 4.A = 4 4.9 4>>> 1= 1>>> 6>.> = 19.8 = 19 46.4 1>>1= 1>5>>> 86.6 = 40.A = 46 66.6 1>5>>1 = 115>>> 1>.> = A.6 1>> A 11.9 11>>1= 4>5>>> 6.6 = 11.1 = 1 0.4 4>5>>1= Actua' no. o# O a+o% 9.0 1>> 6>.9 = 18 4>.6 cu"to( r" and ? )it$in 6> .86.1/ 1.18/ 69 .14.4/ 1 .1.8/ 99 1>>

R +at * riod Non=R +at * riod A'' ti( "B14 Mont$" R +at J Non= r +at * riod Actua' no. o# cu"to( r" P rc nta! )it$in

499

Ann :ur 9.18@ T&* o# C'ot$" Cu"to( r" Pr # r to D ar. .P rc nt/ T&* o# c'ot$" L an"BT="$irt" For(a' Sar " Sa')ar ka( 7 Kurta *ai3a(a Traditiona' Sar and "a')ar ka( 7 Ma' 18.6 61.> 8.A == 4.8 11.9 = 9.1 == == 8.A 9.9 4.8 4.8 8.A == F (a' == 6.> 69.8 66.6 == == 1A.4 == 9.1 6.> == == == == == 1>.>

For(a' and kurta *ai3a(a L an" and "a')ar ka( 7 For(a'5 "a')ar ka( 75 "ar " L an"5 For(a' For(a'5 Traditiona' Kurta5 Traditiona' L an"5 Kurta5 Traditiona' For(a'5 S$ort" Sar "5 Traditiona'

Ann :ur 9.11@ O*inion A+out D$& K$adi Cannot Su+"titut Nor(a' C'ot$ . .P rc nt/ R a"on" No ran! 5 %ari t& in K$adi - r& :* n"i% Not dura+' B*oor ,ua'it& No ran! B*oor ,ua'it& N d" (aint nanc No ran! 5 n d" (aint nanc No r "*on" BNot a**'ica+' Ma' 19.> 8.A 8.A == 8.A 4.8 98.4 F (a' 14.1 1A.4 == 6.> 11.4 == 11.1

490

Ann :ur 9.19@ O*inion A+out D$& K$adi Can Su+"titut Nor(a' C'ot$". .P rc nt/ R a"on" Co(#ortB!ood t :tur Soak" ") at Dura+' 5 ,ua'it& Co(#ort and dura+' Good co'our Gand$ian *$i'o"o*$& + $ind K$adi Co(#ort5 !ood co'our Co(#ort and "oak" ") at No r "*on" BNot a**'ica+' Ann :ur 9.10@ Cu"to( r<" T nd nc& o# D arin! K$adi. .* rc nt/ T nd nc& o# ) arin! K$adi Occa"iona''& R !u'ar'& O#t n So( ti( " Fir"t ti( ) arin! On'& in "u(( r Ann :ur 9.1A@ T&* o# K$adi Pr # rr d +& Cu"to( r". .* rc nt/ Kind o# K$adi Cotton Si'k Po'&%a"tra Cotton and "i'k Ma' 80.9 9.9 9.1 41.8 F (a' 48.4 9.8 == 94.9 Ma' 66.6 11.9 66.6 1>.9 8.A 8.A F (a' 99.0 9.1 14.1 11.1 == == Ma' 9.1 8.A 4.8 4.8 == 8.A == == 09.4 F (a' 14.1 6.> 9.1 6.> 9.1 == 6.> 6.> 9>.9

49A

Cotton and *o'&%a"tra Doo' and cotton Doo'5 cotton and "i'k

9.1 4.8 ==

== == 6.A

Ann :ur 9.19@ Di## r nc 2 t) n K$adi and Ot$ r Fa+ric a" P rc i% d +& Cu"to( r". .P rc nt/ Particu'ar" Ot$ r #a+ric c$ a* No ran! Co"t'&5 (or %ari t& in ot$ r #a+ric K$adi not dura+' K$adi i" (or co(#orta+' Hand(ad 5 !ood ! "tur K$adi not dura+' and :* n"i% K$adi "i'k !ood K$adi $a" !r at # ' Cannot co(*ar Ma' 4.8 8.A 8.A 8.A 46.A 49.4 19.> 4.8 8.A 4.8 F (a' 1A.4 9.1 9.1 6.> 14.1 40.6 40.6 == == ==

Ann :ur 9.4>@ R a"on" M ntion d +& Cu"to( r" #or D arin! K$adi. .P rc nt/ R a"on" A" a #a"$ion Gand$ian id o'o!& Iik K$adi Mor co(#orta+' Dura+' Iook" uni,u and dura+' To $ '* arti"an" Durin! *o'itica' % nt" Good to ) ar5 'ook" uni,u Ea"& )a"$in! Ma' 19.0 19.0 8.4 14.1 8.4 8.4 A.6 8.4 == A.6 F (a' 46.A == 19.> 18.6 == == == 9.1 8.A == 499

Traditiona' Ot$ r r a"on" Tota'

8.4 19.1 1>>.>

== 4A.9 1>>.>

Ann :ur 9.41@ Cu"to( rE" T nd nc& o# -i"itin! K$adi 2$andar". .P rc nt/ Ti( Onc in a & ar T)ic in a & ar T$ric in a & ar Four ti( " in a & ar D$ n % r %i"it India Rar '& Ma' 4A.9 18.6 8.A 81.4 8.A 4.8 F (a' 66.6 6>.6 == 6>.6 6.> 6.>

6>>