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El Tren de la Muerte Central mer!can m!"rants r!s# l!fe and l!mb on the death tra!ns to Te$as Comments %&' () Me"an *eldman Thursda)+ ,ul 26 2007 Cl!c# here for more photos from th!s stor)

El!as dan"les the dead !"uana b) the ta!l. -!s fr!ends close !n around h!m+ watch!n" hun"r!l). .!th a #n!fe he sl!ces throu"h scal) "reen s#!n and peels !t bac# to reveal blood) meat+ dar# red and "l!sten!n" !n the sun. .or#!n" /u!c#l)+ he carves the l!0ard !nto sect!ons1head+ front and bac# le"s+ upper and lower torso1and drops the parts !n a pan. Then he places !t over the f!re the)2ve made near the tra!n trac#s. 3weat tr!c#les down h!s forehead+ st!n"!n" h!s e)es. The men are /u!et wh!le the) wa!t for the l!0ard to coo#. 3omet!mes the) s!n" and tell stor!es+ but for now the)2re too hot and hun"r). The) s!t and watch the f!re. These m!"rants have some &+400 m!les to travel. ,enn!fer 30)mas0e# These m!"rants have some &+400 m!les to travel. 5elated 3tor!es 6!d 6allas C!t) Counc!l ,ust 7ut the C!t)2s .ater 3uppl) at 5!s# *or 8&+6009 *ebruar) &:+ 20&: ;t Too# -!"hland 7ar#2s 6allas Countr) Club ,ust &< =ears to .elcome (lac# 7r!vate E/u!t) E$ec *ebruar) &:+ 20&: The 20 (est Concerts !n 6allas Th!s .ee#+ *ebruar) &<-&> *ebruar) &<+ 20&:

?mn! -otel -elps 5el!eve Convent!on Center 6ebt9 @reat. Them. *ebruar) &<+ 20&: -ow ; *ell !n Bove w!th 6allas *ebruar) &<+ 20&: More bout @lor!a Calde0 3alas 6allas %Te$as' -ouston %Te$as' Mar!a @lor!a Darla -ernande0

ll .e Aeed ;s &0 of

*or three da)s the)2ve been camped here+ !n the Eun"le of southern Me$!co+ about :0 m!les from the @uatemalan border !n a town called Tenos!/ue. -undreds of people sprawl !n the d!rt alon" the trac#s. Man) are )oun" men+ sh!rtless !n the st!c#) heat+ wear!n" tattered A!#es and "r!m) bac#pac#s. (ut there are women and ch!ldren too+ teena"e "!rls w!th pa!nted-on Eeans and mothers balanc!n" #!ds on the!r h!ps. The) loun"e on p!eces of cardboard and plast!c+ s/uat on porches+ smo#e !n the awn!n"s of ma#esh!ft storefronts. The) wa!t. El!as+ a 24-)ear-old w!th a bo)!sh face and l!/u!d brown e)es+ !s s!c# of wa!t!n". ;n the past two wee#s he2s traveled some :00 m!les from -onduras1from h!s parents and e!"ht s!bl!n"s+ from debt+ a fa!l!n" bus!ness and a countr) where educat!on seems a moc#er) because there are so few Eobs. ;f he2s luc#)+ he2s a few wee#s from 6allas+ where h!s brother l!ves and where El!as hopes to f!nd wor#. -e wonders !f he2ll w!nd up spend!n" another n!"ht !n Tenos!/ue. ;t2s !mposs!ble to tell when the tra!n w!ll come+ s!nce there are no schedules+ but he can2t understand wh) !t2s ta#!n" so lon". -e po#es at the s!00l!n" !"uana w!th a st!c#. -!s stomach "rowls. of a tra!n. The men drop ever)th!n" and run. FGEl trenHF the) )ell. FG=a v!eneHF The tra!nH ;t2s hereH El!as searches frant!call) for h!s bac#pac#+ wh!ch holds two chan"es of clothes and some food. -e runs out of t!me and nd then he hears !t. The wh!stle

"rabs the one th!n" he #nows he can2t afford to lose1a leather cattle lasso1and spr!nts toward the trac#s. ;t2s a stampede. -undreds of Central mer!cans become a chaot!c tan"le of pump!n" le"s and arms+ a mass of human!t) dr!ven b) the same !nsane "oal: r!d!n" some &+000 m!les throu"h Me$!co on fre!"ht tra!ns so dan"erous the)2re #nown collect!vel) as El Tren de la Muerte+ the 6eath Tra!n. The)2ve all heard about the "an"sters and band!ts that la) !n wa!t alon" the trac#s+ not to ment!on the corrupt federales #nown to beat and rob m!"rants+ even throw them from the tra!ns. (ut now+ El!as2 "reatest fear !s the tra!n !tself+ Ba (est!a+ as some call !t. The (east. ?ver the past few da)s+ v!lla"ers have caut!oned h!m. F@o bac# to )our countr)+F ur"ed old men+ shop#eepers+ women sell!n" tort!llas. F;t2s too dan"erous.F The) told of m!"rants decap!tated+ suc#ed under the tra!n+ l!mbs severed. F3e los com!o el tren+F the)2d sa)+ FThe tra!n ate them up.F El!as !s terr!f!ed of los!n" a le" or+ worse+ "ett!n" cut !n half. (ut the alternat!ve !s Eust as bad: "o!n" home empt)-handed to face the b!ll collectors threaten!n" to ta#e ever)th!n" he2s wor#ed for. Ao+ he won2t turn bac#. Aot after bus!n" throu"h @uatemala and tre##!n" throu"h the Eun"les and mounta!ns of southern Me$!co. Aot after the ordeal !n Ch!apas+ on the path from Ba rrocera. .!th 8<00 stashed !n h!s shoes+ he runs alon"s!de the bo$cars loo#!n" for a ladder. Men and bo)s are alread) ho!st!n" themselves up onto the cars. -e has to Eump soon+ before the tra!n p!c#s up more speed. .a!t too lon"+ and he could "et )an#ed off balance and suc#ed underneath. @asp!n"+ he spr!nts harder and spots a ladder at the front end of a rounded blac# "asol!ne car. -e reaches out w!th h!s left arm+ then h!s r!"ht. -e "rabs a metal run" and pulls. t last+ he sa)s to h!mself+ ;2m "o!n" to El Aorte. @lor!a Calde0 3alas "uns the en"!ne of her oran"e 3!lverado p!c#up+ speed!n" throu"h ramshac#le ne!"hborhoods and onto the h!"hwa) outs!de Tenos!/ue. 3alas !s the local coord!nator of @rupos (eta+ a "overnment safet) patrol char"ed w!th protect!n" m!"rants. s a former arm) nurse and the (eta boss here+ where El!as f!rst Eumped the tra!n e!"ht months earl!er+ she spends her t!me ne"ot!at!n" w!th author!t!es+ chas!n"

tra!ns+ respond!n" to acc!dents that have left people dead or d!sf!"ured and hand!n" out water to deh)drated m!"rants+ man) of whom are on the!r wa) to Te$as. .hen she pulls up alon"s!de the tra!n trac#s on th!s ,une morn!n"+ ; Eump out of the bac# of the truc# and follow her+ "rabb!n" m) noteboo# and a bottle of water. ;2ve come to Me$!co to retrace parts of El!as2 Eourne)+ to understand wh) mass!ve numbers of m!"rants are w!ll!n" to r!s# the!r l!ves !n such a brutal wa) and to learn+ !f at all poss!ble+ what !t means for Te$as+ the In!ted 3tates and !mm!"rat!on reform. 5ecent med!a reports su""est more people have been travel!n" north !n the hope that Con"ress w!ll pass a comprehens!ve b!ll. few of the m!"rants ; meet ment!on the le"!slat!ve efforts. ?ne -onduran 20-someth!n" tells me he !s certa!n he w!ll be able to l!ve le"all) !n the I.3. once he crosses the border. F@eor"e (ush+F he sa)s solemnl)+ Fw!ll s!"n h!s perm!ss!on.F The tra!n !s barrel!n" toward us now+ blow!n" !ts horn. bout 40 m!"rants run alon"s!de !t+ and more than &00 are alread) r!d!n". The) s!t on the tops of the cars+ stand on led"es !n between them and han" from ladders on the s!des. ?n top of one blac# bo$car+ a "roup of men have mana"ed to erect a crude fort of branches covered w!th a tarp for shade. F@et downHF 3alas hollers to the men+ who are sm!l!n" and wav!n". 3he "estures w!ldl) w!th her hands. F@et down lowHF The rumbl!n" !s too loud+ and the) cont!nue wav!n" unt!l the tra!n !s past. 3alas sha#es her head. FThere are electr!c w!res up ahead+F she sa)s. F.e have to rescue people who "et electrocuted all the t!me.F The tra!n !s mov!n" too fast for new m!"rants to "et on here+ so the)2ll wa!t unt!l tomorrow. ;n the meant!me+ more people are arr!v!n"+ stumbl!n" and e$hausted after the two-to-f!ve-da) tre# from @uatemala. 7eople sa) Me$!co2s border w!th the In!ted 3tates !s porous+ but !t2s noth!n" compared to Me$!co2s southern border+ where pol!t!cal not!ons of nat!onal boundar!es are+ for all pract!cal purposes+ !rrelevant. ;nstead of desert+ there !s Eun"le+ a tan"led blan#et of dense fol!a"e cloa#!n" flatlands+ r!vers and mounta!ns. 3alvador+ but others have come even farther+ from 3outh nd ever) da) the verdant mer!ca and even s!a. The) landscape !s crawl!n" w!th people. Most are from -onduras+ @uatemala and El wal# alon" roads and on worn pathwa)s+ hac#!n" throu"h v!nes w!th machetes and

sleep!n" on the mo!st earth under trees and bushes. The) cross r!vers and wal# e$tra m!les to avo!d border chec#po!nts. Aot that there2s much to the border. t the El Ce!bo cross!n" !nto Me$!co from @uatemala+ there2s no chec#po!nt at all on the @uatemalan s!de and Eust a small Me$!can !mm!"rat!on off!ce w!th a few bored-loo#!n" a"ents outs!de. () all accounts+ the flow of m!"rants over Me$!co2s southern border has "rown from a narrow stream 20 )ears a"o to a m!"ht) r!ver+ and wh!le an) numer!cal calculat!on undoubtedl) falls short+ off!c!al data from the Me$!can "overnment shows a 72 percent !ncrease !n the number of Central Each )ear nearl) <00+000 Central mer!can m!"rants deta!ned between 2002 and 2004. mer!cans enter Me$!co !n an attempt to reach the bout

I.3.+ accord!n" to the Me$!can "overnment2s Center of ;mm!"rat!on 3tud!es. re/u!res mone) for t!c#ets and a smu""ler to pa) off author!t!es alon" the wa). s f!nanc!al d!stress !ncreases !n Central

one-th!rd of the m!"rants ta#e the tra!ns1the cheapest wa) to "o+ because bus travel

mer!ca+ espec!all) !n -onduras+ wh!ch

wrestles w!th 24 to <0 percent unemplo)ment+ more people leave to Eo!n relat!ves or fr!ends !n the I.3. ?f the m!"rants ; meet !n Me$!co+ at least >0 percent are -onduran+ and man) are headed to -ouston and 6allas+ drawn b) Te$as2 boom!n" econom). ?ne @uatemalan man tells me he !s on h!s wa) to ?a# Cl!ff for a roof!n" Eob that !s alread) set up. m!ddle-a"ed mother h!#!n" throu"h the Eun"le !n a pol)ester blouse+ s#!rt and s she spea#s of leav!n" her ch!ldren+ blac# flats sa)s she2s left her f!ve ch!ldren w!th her mother and !s headed to -ouston to f!nd wor# as a ma!d. -er name !s Mar!a @lor!a. a"es &0 to &J+ she fumbles w!th her hands+ her face full of sadness. 3!nce her husband left her she2s been ta#!n" !n laundr) and clean!n" houses+ often the onl) opt!on for women !n -onduras because emplo)ers rarel) h!re women over 24. %The)2re cons!dered too old and unattract!ve for reta!l Eobs and not fast enou"h for factor) wor#.' F=ou can2t l!ve on what )ou ma#e there+F Mar!a @lor!a sa)s !n a soft vo!ce. F;2ve heard lots of scar) th!n"s about the tra!ns+ but ; have to ta#e the r!s#.F ;t2s common for parents to leave ch!ldren the) can2t afford to feed+ prom!s!n" to send mone) to the relat!ves car!n" for them. ?thers br!n" the!r ch!ldren w!th them. ; come across a couple w!th three #!ds+ the )oun"est a bo) who loo#s about J and wears a wooden rosar). B!#e a number of people ; meet+ the) aren2t sure where the) are headed

!n the I.3. F.herever @od allows us to "o+F sa)s the mother+ a fa!r-s#!nned -onduran w!th a blond pon)ta!l. ; also meet a sh) 2&-)ear-old woman who loo#s about &6. 3he tells me she was nauseated on the lon" wal# from @uatemala because she was three months2 pre"nant. s the number of m!"rants on the tra!ns has "rown+ so have the deaths+ !nEur!es and amputat!ons+ not to ment!on the v!olence unleashed a"a!nst the fore!"ners b) opportun!st!c band!ts+ corrupt author!t!es and v!c!ous members of the Mara 3alvatrucha+ a Central mer!can "an" whose members have fled law enforcement crac#downs !n the!r own countr!es and have set up bases !n southern Me$!co. .hen Me$!can 7res!dent *el!pe Calderon too# off!ce !n ,anuar)+ he pled"ed to slow !mm!"rat!on across the southern border and stop the constant robber!es+ assaults+ rapes and murders. 3!$ months later+ not much has chan"ed. ; met -onduran newl)weds @!ovan! costa and Darla -ernande0 at a m!"rant shelter !n the church !n Tenos!/ue. The)2d arr!ved earl) that morn!n" and were rest!n" on the floor after a harrow!n" n!"ht. s the) wal#ed throu"h the Eun"le !n the dar#+ out of water and dr!n#!n" from cattle trou"hs alon" the wa)+ three men !n mas#s Eumped out of the fol!a"e. The men+ hold!n" "uns and machetes+ forced them to str!p and l!e face-down on the "round. The) too# the couple2s last &00 pesos %8&0'+ as well as the!r soap+ c!"arettes and even the!r shoes. The pa!r wal#ed three hours barefoot unt!l a store#eeper "ave them sandals and some food. The) were cons!der!n" turn!n" bac#. (ut costa+ whose closel) cropped curls and dash!n" sm!le ma#e h!m loo# l!#e a Bat!n *ran# 3!natra+ sa!d he d!dn2t #now what he2d do !f the) went home. -e2s an electr!c!an who stru""les to f!nd decent-pa)!n" Eobs. F;n -onduras+ !f )ou bu) a pa!r of shoes+ )ou "o a da) w!thout food+F he sa!d. -ernande0+ a short woman w!th full chee#s and d!mples+ #new she was luc#) she wasn2t raped. F.hen the man sa!d "o !nto the bushes and "et down on the "round+ ; thou"ht+ 2?h m) @od+2F she sa!d. 5ape !s so common on the m!"rant tra!l that man) women ma#!n" the!r wa) throu"h @uatemala be"!n ta#!n" b!rth control p!lls or stash!n" condoms !n preparat!on for what l!es ahead. 3alas+ the (eta coord!nator+ sa)s she once found a woman l)!n" alon" the h!"hwa) to @uatemala. The woman had res!sted band!ts who tr!ed to rape her+ and the men beat her+ bro#e her left arm and used machetes to slash her le"s to r!bbons. ;n the

end+ she was raped an)wa). -er fr!end+ who d!dn2t f!"ht bac#+ thou"ht the woman m!"ht be dead and ran to town for help. F.hen we "ot there+F 3alas sa)s+ Fshe was !n shoc#.F 3alas has seen people lose both le"s to the tra!n1a teena"er bled to death b) the trac#s !n Tenos!/ue Eust a couple of wee#s earl!er1but the memor) of that poor woman has sta)ed w!th her. lon" w!th the 6-foot-6 -onduran man whose le"s were crushed b) the tra!n. -e arr!ved w!th h!s fr!ends at the (eta off!ce !n the bac# of a ta$!. 3alas opened the car door to f!nd that the)2d stuffed h!m !n w!th h!s le"s doubled over. FThe) were attached onl) b) h!s pants and a b!t of s#!n+F she sa)s. F; dra""ed h!m out+ put h!m on the bac#board1thou"h he was too lon" for !t1cut off h!s pants+ pressur!0ed the arter) and "ot h!m to the hosp!tal. -e surv!ved.F 6r!v!n" w!th 3alas alon" the h!"hwa) from El Ce!bo+ we see a "roup of e!"ht teena"ers wal#!n" alon" the road ahead. .hen the) see the truc#+ the) duc# under a barbed w!re fence and spr!nt !nto a f!eld+ runn!n" for the!r l!ves. 3alas pulls over and "ets out. F-e)+ we2re (eta+ we2re here to helpHF she calls after them. F6o )ou want some water9F The bo)s pause+ then turn around and wal# slowl) bac# up to the road+ out of breath. The) are -ondurans !n the!r late teens+ and the)2re on the!r wa) to M!ssour!. .hen ; as# wh)+ a tall "u) w!th a blue bandanna around h!s head "r!ns. F(ecause that2s where all the prett) "!rls areHF -!s fr!ends lau"h. The) ta#e the!r water bottles and the pamphlets from 3alas that l!st contact numbers for nonprof!ts+ consulates and embass!es+ and #eep wal#!n". .hen we "et bac# !nto the truc#+ 3alas !s /u!et for a lon" moment. 3he2s st!ll remember!n" the tall -onduran who lost h!s le"s. F=ou see them !n s!tuat!ons that should #!ll them+F she f!nall) sa)s. F(ut the) l!ve a la fuer0a1b) force1b) the!r determ!nat!on to #eep "o!n".F El!as wa#es to sear!n" pa!n and the Earr!n" metal-on-metal "r!nd of the tra!n. -e2d used the lasso to lash h!mself to the ladder at the rear of the "asol!ne car+ Eust above the steel connectors. Two n!"hts of f!tful sleep t!ed at the wa!st have left h!m w!th sharp aches !n h!s bac# and nec#. -e2s covered w!th mud churned b) the wh!rr!n" wheels below+ and thou"h some of the men r!d!n" nearb) have shared water and food w!th h!m+ there2s no

wa) to "et r!d of the "ra!n) d!rt that coats h!s mouth and st!c#s between h!s teeth. The temperature cl!mbs to >4 de"rees dur!n" the da)+ dress!n" h!m !n a su!t of st!c#) sweat and "r!me. -!s ha!r !s matted !n mudd) clumps. -!s mother would be horr!f!ed to see h!m now. -e d!dn2t even tell h!s parents he was leav!n". .hen h!s brother left w!thout sa)!n" a word three )ears earl!er+ El!as vowed he2d never end up !n the same pos!t!on. Inl!#e h!s )oun"er brother+ he had sta)ed !n school. -e planned to "raduate and become an en"!neer. -e never d!d+ thou"h. ;n -onduras+ school !sn2t free+ and attend!n" re/u!res mone) for suppl!es and un!forms. s he made h!s wa) throu"h h!"h school+ he watched older fr!ends w!th d!plomas fa!l to f!nd Eobs !n the f!elds the)2d stud!ed. El!as ended up rent!n" a stall !n a local mar#et and open!n" a cosmet!cs store+ sell!n" shampoos and lot!ons+ lad!es2 face cream and 3cope. -e h!red a woman to wor# the re"!ster+ and for a wh!le sales were "ood enou"h to be"!n bu!ld!n" h!s own home+ so he could move out of h!s parents2 house. (ut then h!s luc# turned. -e2d Eust wanted a small house+ but the men he h!red bu!lt !t wa) too b!" and spent too much mone). 3ales at the store started to tan#K !t seemed l!#e all the small shops were "o!n" bro#e because the) couldn2t compete w!th the b!" stores. 3oon El!as was drown!n" !n debt. There was no wa) he2d be able to repa) the 827+000 he owed w!th &2 percent !nterest1the ban# would repossess ever)th!n". 3o he had one cho!ce: 6o what tens of thousands of -ondurans do each )ear1"o north. .hen h!s fr!end 7edro+ a truc# dr!ver !n the!r hometown of Choluteca+ as#ed h!m to come alon" and r!de the tra!ns+ he sa!d )es. ;t was the onl) wa) out+ he thou"ht+ and bes!des+ !t would be an adventure. El!as2 mother cr!ed and pra)ed for da)s after h!s brother+ now a carpenter !n 6allas+ left for the I.3.+ so he told h!mself he2d call home when he was closer+ past most of the dan"er. Aow+ t!red and sore+ he cons!ders the !ron) of !t all. -e2d been sure he would show h!s parents and h!s n!ne s!bl!n"s how successful he was+ w!th h!s own house and bus!ness. nd !nstead+ here he !s+ bound l!#e an an!mal to the ladder and pra)!n" that when n!"ht falls+ he won2t sleep throu"h shouted warn!n"s of a pol!ce chec#po!nt+ or worse+ fall pre) to band!ts or "an" members. -e pra)s he won2t have to face another s!tuat!on l!#e the one he found h!mself !n da)s before.

El!as+ 7edro and two other -ondurans had been wander!n" !n the Eun"le+ lost+ tr)!n" to f!nd the r!"ht place to "et the tra!n. The)2d entered Me$!co !n Tapachula+ on the 7ac!f!c s!de near @uatemala+ but because the tra!n trac#s had been washed awa) b) a hurr!cane+ the) wound up wal#!n" e!"ht da)s toward the @ulf+ to Tenos!/ue. (efore the) found the!r wa)+ the) came to an adobe house on the outs#!rts of a l!ttle town !n Ch!apas called Ba rrocera. El!as d!dn2t #now !t+ but the !solated cattle town !s notor!ous. ;t2s #nown to be !nhab!ted b) locals who help author!t!es catch m!"rants. The madr!nas+ or "odmothers+ as these predator) v!lla"ers are called+ often pose as m!"rants themselves !n order to beat+ rape and rob+ and the)2re perm!tted b) croo#ed off!c!als to #eep part of what the) steal. El!as as#ed an old rancher who stood outs!de the adobe house !f he had an) food to spare. The man shoo# h!s head. FAo+F he sa!d. F(ut there2s a woman up ahead who can help )ou. =ou2ll come to two houses+ each on a h!ll. ?ne !s bad+ and one !s "ood.F El!as stared blan#l) for a moment. F.ell+ wh!ch one !s "ood9F he as#ed. F?ne !s bad+ and one !s "ood+F the man sa!d a"a!n. ?D+ El!as thou"ht+ hopefull) @od w!ll lead us to the "ood one. ,ust as the man sa!d+ up ahead were two l!ttle houses. prett) woman+ around :0+ came

out of the one on the r!"ht and called down to them. FMuchachos+ ven"a+F she sa!d. FCome on+ bo)s1)ou need someth!n" to eat9F El!as and the others followed her !nto the modest home+ where she d!shed out "enerous port!ons of beans+ e""s and r!ce. oldest+ who loo#ed about 20+ offered one of the m!"rants a Me$!can ;6. s the) devoured the food+ El!as not!ced the woman2s three sons watch!n" them. The s h!s fr!end loo#ed at the card+ El!as d!scoura"ed h!m !n a wh!sper. F.ho #nows who that !s9F he told h!m. F;t2s probabl) some cr!m!nal1don2t bu) !t.F -!s fr!end !"nored h!m and pa!d for the ;6. few m!nutes later+ the woman2s three sons emer"ed from a bedroom fter the) pa!d 40 pesos each for wear!n" boots and wal#ed out the door. FThe)2re "o!n" for soda+F the woman sa!d. =eah+ r!"ht+ El!as thou"ht+ feel!n" h!s stomach s!n#. "u)s are "o!n" to show up down the road.F 3ure enou"h+ a few m!nutes later+ the three brothers leaped out of the brush. The oldest one had a .22+ the ne$t )oun"est a machete and the smallest a lar"e st!c#. FTh!s !s a robber)HF the oldest )elled. -e shot at the "round+ spra)!n" mud from the recent ra!ns. d!nner and wal#ed outs!de+ he vo!ced h!s susp!c!ons. F@et some roc#s+F he sa!d. FThese

The m!"rants dropped the!r roc#s. FB!ne upHF the "unman ordered. The m!"rants obe)ed. FAow+ l!e downHF s the others compl!ed+ El!as stood rooted to the "round. -e refused to "!ve up h!s mone)1how would he eat9 F@et down and "!ve me )our mone)HF the "unman demanded. F; don2t have an)+F El!as repl!ed. F; #now )ou have some+ ; saw !t !n the house+F the "unman sa!d. -e smashed El!as over the head w!th the .22. F@et on the "roundHF Th!s t!me+ head throbb!n"+ El!as d!d as he was told. The two )oun"er brothers were alread) r!fl!n" throu"h h!s fr!ends2 clothes loo#!n" for cash. The "unman #!c#ed El!as hard !n the r!bs and bac#+ then )an#ed off h!s A!#es and loo#ed !ns!de for mone). Buc#!l)+ El!as had tuc#ed !t under the !nsoles. -e felt the "un barrel press !nto h!s forehead. ;t seemed l!#e h!s heart was beat!n" clear up to h!s ears. .as th!s !t9 .as he "o!n" to d!e here+ !n the mud !n the m!ddle of nowhere+ w!thout ever spea#!n" to h!s fam!l) a"a!n9 ,ust then+ footsteps sounded on the path beh!nd them. The band!t stra!"htened. F-ow man) people are beh!nd )ou9F he as#ed. F3!$+F El!as answered+ ma#!n" !t up. F re there women9F the man as#ed. F=eah+ there are women+F El!as l!ed. The cold metal l!fted from h!s head. F@et out of hereHF the band!t )elled. El!as Eumped up and ran. ;nstead of s!$+ a "roup of some :0 m!"rants rounded the corner. The )ouths tr!ed to rob them+ but !t was too lar"e a crowd+ and the m!"rants all ran down the road and toward the tra!ns.

El!as and h!s fr!ends wal#ed w!th the "roup for another few da)s before f!nall) arr!v!n" !n Tenos!/ue. fam!l) who l!ved near the trac#s let the )oun" -ondurans use the!r shower and sleep !n the front )ard. ?ne afternoon+ El!as was #!ll!n" t!me near the trac#s when he not!ced a :0-!sh man on crutches. -e was m!ss!n" a foot. El!as nodded !n "reet!n". F.here )ou headed9F he as#ed. F3ame place as )ou+F the man sa!d. ;t turned out he2d sl!pped wh!le pull!n" h!mself onto a tra!n. -e thou"ht he was f!ne and started to "et up+ he told El!as+ but then he not!ced the blood) stump where h!s foot had been. -e later wo#e up !n the hosp!tal. The man was determ!ned to cont!nue h!s Eourne)+ !ns!st!n" he would hop the tra!n a"a!n+ crutches and all. fter the th!rd da) of r!d!n" t!ed to the ladder+ El!as can2t stand !t an)more. -e wants to f!nd h!s fr!end 7edro+ so he unt!es h!mself and cl!mbs to the top of the tra!n. Crouch!n" there+ he ta#es a breath and stead!es h!mself before stepp!n" over to the platform. There he stands hold!n" the ra!l!n"+ w!nd stream!n" past h!s face and throu"h h!s d!rt) ha!r. Th!s !s much better. -e wal#s over the top of the car+ slowl) at f!rst. -e leaps from one car to the ne$t and traverses n!ne before spott!n" 7edro. -!s fr!end !s stand!n" on the top run" of a s!de ladder near two other -ondurans. 7edro sm!les+ surpr!sed to see h!m. F; thou"ht )ou "ot left beh!nd+F he sa)s. The) s!t to"ether on top of the bo$car. To pass the t!me+ El!as s!n"s. lot of the m!"rants carr) small (!bles+ or a few pa"es w!th scrawled verses. Most wear rosar!es. (ut El!as Eust pra)s+ often !n son". F3o much ; have w!th m) Bord+ so much ; owe to m) sav!or+F he s!n"s. F;f ; could repa) h!s lov!n" "race+ ; would "!ve all m) soul.F Tenos!/ue+ a cattle town recentl) dubbed the FTrampol!ne to mer!caF b) a Me$!can

newspaper+ !s def!ned b) the tra!ns. The) mar# the passa"e of t!me+ and not Eust for m!"rants attempt!n" to Eump them. *or emer"enc) rescue crews+ the pass!n" of a tra!n !s l!#e the alarm at a f!rehouse+ the s!"nal to sl!de down the pole and run to wor#. *or *ather (las+ the calm and ph!losoph!cal pr!est who runs the m!"rant shelter beh!nd the church+ the sound means the arr!val of bro#en souls. nd for res!dents l!#e Cel!a @ut!erre0+ who cleans rooms at a local hotel+ a tra!n wh!stle on the f!rst 3aturda) of the month !s an opportun!t) to be a "ood 3amar!tan b) runn!n" out to the trac#s w!th sandw!ches and tort!llas for the people r!d!n" the tra!ns.

Most locals ; tal#ed to sa) the) feel sorr) for the m!"rants. Man) call them pobrec!tos+ poor th!n"s+ and wonder how the povert) !n Central mer!ca could poss!bl) dwarf the!r own. F.e don2t reall) understand wh) the) "o throu"h all th!s to leave home+F sa!d one elderl) woman who l!ves b) the trac#s. 3he "estured toward a l!ttle plan# shac# and barren )ard+ where a couple of p!"s rooted !n the d!rt. F; mean+ we2re poor+ but th!s !s our home.F Aot ever)one !n Tenos!/ue !s dest!tute+ however. few hours after see!n" the "roup of

-onduran teena"ers on the h!"hwa)+ we have d!nner at a br!"ht+ clean restaurant called CafL Be)ra. -oused !n a bubble-l!#e structure w!th "lass walls+ the place !s full of Me$!can fam!l!es out for a 3aturda) n!"ht on the town+ eat!n" ench!ladas and bur"ers+ s!pp!n" fru!t smooth!es and m!l#sha#es topped w!th wh!pped cream and cherr!es. Throu"h the "lass+ m) photo"rapher fr!end spots a "roup of what loo# l!#e teena"e m!"rants shuffl!n" b) outs!de+ heads down and bac#pac#s strapped to the!r shoulders. Meanwh!le+ the restaurant2s enterta!ner for the even!n" steps onto a small wooden sta"e !n front of our table. short+ mustach!oed man+ he plows throu"h son"s and Eo#es wh!le donn!n" var!ous costumes+ !nclud!n" a flowered loun"e Eac#et and a blac# mar!ach! ensemble. -e ma#es fre/uent /u!ps about the town2s status as a "atewa) to the I.3. F.ho2s "o!n" to mer!ca9F he as#s+ perched at the ed"e of the sta"e+ "a0!n" out at the d!ners !n moc# ser!ousness. The room f!lls w!th lau"hter+ and he ra!ses h!s vo!ce. FCamos+ all of us. Bet2s all "o to mer!caHF El!as !s wa!t!n" for another tra!n. -e and h!s fr!ends are now a few hours from Me$!co C!t)1the)2ve come almost 400 m!les from Tenos!/ue and nearl) &+000 from -onduras. -e2s e$hausted after da)s of r!d!n" and from leap!n" off the last tra!n to h!#e around a pol!ce chec#po!nt. -e loo#s down the trac#s+ hop!n" to see l!"hts. Then he scans the crowd and h!s e)es fall on a fam!l!ar face from Tenos!/ue. The man w!th the m!ss!n" foot. El!as can2t bel!eve he2s made !t th!s far. -e2s about to sa) hello when he not!ces the man2s red e)es and l!stless movements1he2s p!ss-drun#. El!as and 7edro soon catch a pass!n" tra!n. couple of hours later+ after two lon" wee#s

on the tra!n punctuated b) the adrenal!ne rush of Eump!n" off to avo!d off!c!als+ the)

arr!ve !n Becher!a.

n !mportant po!nt !n the Eourne)+ !t2s a "r!tt) Me$!co C!t) suburb

named for the da!r) town !t used to be+ before the puls!n" sprawl of the world2s second lar"est metropol!s devoured !t. Th!s !s where the) must chan"e tra!n l!nes to "o to 3an Bu!s 7otos!+ a c!t) !n north central Me$!co some 200 m!les from Te$as. ?nce there+ El!as hopes to f!nd a smu""ler to "u!de h!m to the borderland+ wh!ch !s th!c# w!th secur!t)+ and throu"h the desert that cla!ms hundreds of l!ves each )ear. -e has traveled some 440 m!les !n two wee#s on the ra!lwa)sK !f he2s luc#)+ he has about 2<0 m!les left on the tra!ns. M!"rants up ahead shout warn!n"s that the Becher!a stat!on !s com!n" upK the) have to Eump before the)2re spotted b) pol!ce or ra!l secur!t). Even after wee#s of plun"!n" off mov!n" tra!ns+ El!as hasn2t "otten used to !t. -e forces h!mself to leap+ clenches h!s Eaws a"a!nst the pa!n as he h!ts the "round and rolls rou"hl) over d!rt and roc#s. *eel!n" the st!n" of s#!nned elbows+ he stands and surve)s the landscape. There are smo#e-spew!n" factor!es+ warehouses and s/uares of farmland full of "reen "rass and munch!n" "oats. -e f!nds h!s fr!ends ahead+ dust!n" themselves off+ and to"ether the) wal# alon" the street b) the stat!on+ past bode"as and t!re shops and bars. .!th!n an hour+ the)2re !ns!de a store chatt!n" w!th a tall+ pleasant-faced man !n h!s late <0s. -!s name !s Mart!n+ and as he pol!shes off a beer+ he !nv!tes the -ondurans home for d!nner and dr!n#s. The)2re welcome to sleep !n h!s )ard+ he sa)s. El!as pauses. 3!nce that da) !n Ch!apas+ each t!me someone offers help+ h!s stomach t!"htens. -e loo#s hard at the man. Mart!n seems "enu!nel) fr!endl)+ and El!as has a "ood feel!n" about h!m. 6esp!te h!s fear+ he chooses to trust !t. Mart!n tells them he2s a "u!de and can secure the!r passa"e to Te$as for 82+&00 each+ 8&+000 up front. -e leads them to h!s house and as#s them what s!0e sh!rts and pants the) wear1he2s not!ced the tears and sta!ns and ca#ed d!rt. -e leaves and returns w!th a p!le of clothes+ toss!n" El!as a wh!te button-up and s!0e <: dress pants. Bater+ Mart!n ta#es them to a nearb) store. El!as+ who doesn2t dr!n# alcohol+ selects a Co#e wh!le the others l!ne up to bu) bottles of Corona. tou"h-loo#!n" 3alvadoran man wal#s !n. -e !sn2t covered w!th tattoos l!#e the "an"sters El!as has seen before+ but he loo#s Eust as mean. *rom the moment he wal#s up to the counter+ !t2s clear he has noth!n" but bad !ntent!ons.

F ll -ondurans are motherfuc#ers+F the man declares to the -onduran store owner. F.e2ll see about that+F the owner+ a burl) man !n h!s :0s+ repl!es+ narrow!n" h!s e)es. F;2m 3alvatrucha+ motherfuc#er+F the man sa)s+ referr!n" to the Central "an". El!as attempts to defuse the tens!on. F6on2t f!"ht+F he sa)s. F.e2re all Central mer!can.F The 3alvadoran turns and l!fts h!s sh!rt to show a machete strapped around h!s wa!st. F; don2t "!ve a sh!t+F he sa)s. F;f th!s f!"ht were w!th )ou+ ;2d have alread) sl!t )our throat.F .!thout warn!n"+ the pet!te woman who2s marr!ed to the owner darts out from beh!nd the counter and unsheathes the "an"ster2s machete !n one sw!ft mot!on. F=ou won2t be f!"ht!n" !n hereHF she )ells+ hold!n" the machete !n the a!r. -er husband !s bes!de her now. *or a moment the )oun" man2s face re"!sters shoc# and confus!on+ but he sa)s noth!n" and turns to leave. El!as can2t bel!eve !t1how !s !t poss!ble that th!s man+ a member of the le"endar) Mara 3alvatrucha+ was Eust d!sarmed b) a t!n) shop owner2s w!fe9 nd !t2s not over. The store owner "rabs the "an"ster b) the sh!rt and punches h!m repeatedl) !n the face. .hen the man2s le"s buc#le he dra"s h!m out front b) the collar and leaves h!m !n the "utter+ throw!n" a few last punches. F6on2t )ou ever come bac# here+F he sa)s. The m!"rants watch+ hold!n" the!r dr!n#s !n s!lence. There2s a 3pan!sh e$press!on: FTodo se compra+ Todo se vende.F FEver)th!n" can be bou"ht or sold.F 7erhaps nowhere !s !t truer than alon" the human smu""l!n" routes throu"h Me$!co. M!"rants are rout!nel) beaten and robbed b) cops and e$torted b) !mm!"rat!on a"ents. nd as much as m!"rants depend on smu""lers for at least part of the Eourne)+ !t2s d!ff!cult to tell wh!ch ones the) can trust. mer!can street

;n Tenos!/ue+ ; meet a muscular man w!th tattoos on h!s arms and a rosar) around h!s nec#. The m!"rants call h!m Baredo+ wh!ch !s st!tched !n wh!te letters on h!s nav) baseball cap. .hen ; as# !f he2s made th!s tr!p before+ he nods !ndul"entl)+ as !f ;2ve as#ed !f he can r!de a b!#e. F;2ve l!ved !n ust!n+ (oston+ Dansas. ;2ve entered the countr) 20 t!mes. Cross!n" here !sn2t hard+ !t2s "ett!n" across the border up there+F he sa)s+ lean!n" casuall) on a lon" machete. ; wonder !f he !s a smu""ler+ and later+ 3alas+ the (eta coord!nator+ conf!rms m) susp!c!ons. F?h+ )eah1!t2s obv!ous he2s a pollero+F she sa)s+ us!n" a common term for co)ote. 3mu""lers often pa) tra!n conductors to stop for m!"rants+ and 3alas has had her fa!r share of confrontat!ons w!th the tra!n compan!es. FTwo wee#s a"o a woman was stand!n" b) the trac#s+ hand!n" her :-)ear-old to someone on the tra!n before "ett!n" on herself+ and because she d!dn2t have mone) to pa)+ the dr!ver pulled out and left her+F 3alas tells me. The horr!f!ed mother told nearb) v!lla"ers+ who told (eta+ and soon 3alas and her a"ents were rac!n" after the tra!n to rescue the toddler. The dr!ver f!nall) stopped after several hours+ she sa)s+ and the) returned the ch!ld to the mother. s ; l!sten to these stor!es+ the I.3. 3enate !s about to abandon the f!rst maEor !mm!"rat!on overhaul !n 20 )ears. nd !n Me$!co+ where people are w!ll!n" to r!s# a s half-do0en terr!f)!n" attempts to cross the countr) on the 6eath Tra!ns+ where co)otes ma#e a prof!t and off!c!als turn a bl!nd e)e+ the pol!c) debate seems mean!n"less. l!ves to come to lon" as hundreds of thousands of people are w!ll!n" to r!s# los!n" the!r l!mbs and the!r mer!ca each )ear+ few chan"es on the I.3. border w!ll ma#e a d!fference w!thout ser!ous efforts to create Eobs !n Central mer!ca and Me$!co. ;n Central mer!ca F)ou have a s!tuat!on where a few fam!l!es l!ve e$tremel) well+

spend l!ttle on educat!on and health care+ pa) l!ttle ta$+ and bas!call) have unfulf!lled obl!"at!ons to the!r downtrodden+F sa)s @eor"e @ra)son+ a Me$!co e$pert who teaches at the Colle"e of .!ll!am and Mar). FThe absence of Me$!co2s border certa!nl) ma#es l!fe more d!ff!cult for the I.3. and !ts law enforcement a"enc!es+ but there are steps we should be ta#!n". .e can2t s!mpl) abandon our borderK otherw!se )ou2d have 24 percent of the world !n the In!ted 3tates.F

(ac# !n Tenos!/ue+ on a Monda) a l!ttle after 7 a.m.+ 3alas calls our hotel. FGC!ene el trenHF she sa)s. M!nutes later we2re runn!n" alon" the trac#s. .e cross a br!d"e over a waterwa) and come face to face w!th the -onduran teens we met the da) before. The) "reet us w!th sm!les and pose for the camera w!th tou"h-"u) stares. The tra!n has rounded a corner and chu"s toward us+ !ts headl!"hts resembl!n" enormous "low!n" e)es. FGCamelloHF )ells the tall man !n the blue bandanna+ the one loo#!n" forward to the prett) "!rls !n M!ssour!. FCome over hereH *!ve on th!s s!de+ f!ve on the otherHF The) spl!t and wa!t on each s!de of the trac#s. The tra!n !s almost here. F(e careful+F warns an older m!"rant. F;f !t2s "o!n" too fast+ there w!ll be others.F 5usset+ "ra) and wh!te bo$cars "l!de past w!th hordes of people stand!n" on top. .hen the tra!n !s past+ the &0 "u)s rema!n on the trac#s. F;t went too fastHF one sa)s. The) ta#e off !n a run+ hop!n" the tra!n w!ll slow. .e spr!nt after them. FG3e detuvoHF one screams. F;t stoppedHF 6o0ens of people clamber onto the caboose+ and ; real!0e !t was l!#el) Baredo who pa!d off the dr!ver. F-urr)+ hurr)+ "et onHF one man stand!n" on the tra!n )ells to the runn!n" -ondurans. The) ma#e !t Eust !n t!me. ll &0 cl!mb aboard and the tra!n moves forward+ !nch!n" toward El Aorte. ; lean on m) #nees+ catch!n" m) breath+ and watch the wav!n" teena"ers "row small !n the d!stance. F re )ou ?D9F El!as2 mother as#s h!m as he stands at a phone booth. *r!ends of h!s have told her where he has "one. F=eah+ ;2m f!ne+F he sa)s. F6on2t l!e to me.F F;2m f!ne+ MamM.F F.h) d!d )ou leave l!#e Marv!n d!d+ w!thout tell!n" me9F F; d!dn2t want )ou to worr).F 3he a"rees to w!re h!m the 8&+000 depos!t for Mart!n+ the co)ote. 3he2ll ta#e !t from the cosmet!cs store+ another add!t!on to El!as2 debt. -e2ll cont!nue north w!thout 7edro+ who doesn2t have enou"h mone) to pa) a smu""ler and plans to ta#e h!s chances on the tra!n all the wa) to Te$as.

The rest of the Eourne) seems endless. *rom the be"!nn!n" the tr!p has depended on luc#+ but r!d!n" the tra!ns re/u!red hustle and cunn!n" as well. Aow+ El!as feels helpless+ pac#ed l!#e a 2-b)-: !nto a covered p!c#up w!th a do0en other m!"rants+ !nclud!n" a &7)ear-old who Eo!ns El!as for lau"hter and a ser!es of d!rt) Eo#es. fter what seems l!#e forever+ the) cl!mb out of the veh!cle and sw!m across the 5!o @rande near Baredo+ then f!le !nto a small house !n the Te$as desert. Mart!n went home before the) crossed the r!ver+ so El!as !s !n the hands of the co)ote2s assoc!ates. E!"ht da)s pass w!th some <0 people stuffed !n the l!ttle shac#+ s!tt!n" and sleep!n" shoulder to shoulder !n the st!fl!n" heat. ?nce a da)+ a bowl of ch!c#en !s passed around as more m!"rants arr!ve and others are led out to traverse the desert. *!nall)+ Eust when El!as th!n#s he2ll "o mad from the heat and the st!n# and the an$!et)+ the co)ote comes to "et h!m. The) set out at n!"ht !n a "roup of &0+ wal#!n" throu"h the scrub brush on soft+ dr) sand that s!n#s under the!r feet. Even as h!s feet ache and h!s lun"s stra!n !n the cold Aovember a!r+ El!as marvels at the vast s#) that sh!mmers w!th m!ll!ons of br!"ht wh!te stars. The "roup wal#s mostl) at n!"ht and tr!es to sleep dur!n" the da)+ ta#!n" cover !n the low brush. The)2re told the)2ll wal# for two da)s+ but on the th!rd+ the)2re not even close. The onl) food El!as has left !s ma)onna!se. That even!n"+ the) stop to sleep for a few hours+ then wa#e !n the m!ddle of the n!"ht and set out a"a!n. ?nl) after s!$ hours does !t dawn on El!as that the)2ve for"otten the &7-)ear-old #!d. -e2d curled up to sleep apart from the rest of the "roup+ and no one not!ced the)2d left w!thout h!m. Turn!n" bac# w!thout suppl!es would mean r!s#!n" the!r l!ves+ so the) cont!nue. *or the f!rst t!me+ and onl) for a moment+ El!as w!shes he never came. Bater+ when the sun !s r!s!n" on !ts arc over the endless brown e$panse+ someone po!nts out a hel!copter touch!n" down !n the desert beh!nd them. El!as pra)s that !t saved the teena"er. ;f not+ he would surel) d!e+ alone !n the desert. El!as has heard stor!es about such m!"rants1people whose feet are so torn up the) can2t "o on and are left beh!nd+ others who l!e down to sleep and never wa#e up. ;f onl) the #!d had slept a l!ttle b!t closer. 3oon+ these an"u!shed thou"hts are drowned out b) the pound!n" of h!s feet+ the relentless sun overhead and the cold w!nd that blasts them w!th sand.

?n the fourth da)+ a downpour !nterrupts the dr)ness. El!as2 clothes are soa#ed+ and after a few hours the chaf!n" on h!s arms and le"s "rows so pa!nful that he str!ps to h!s bo$ers. 3oon he2s sh!ver!n" !n the Aovember ch!ll. The) reach a road the ne$t da) and are f!nall) p!c#ed up b) a truc#. El!as !s loaded !nto a lar"e metal toolbo$ !n the bac# and told the dr!ve w!ll ta#e a few hours. Eleven hours later+ nearl) fro0en+ he f!nds h!mself !n -ouston+ where h!s cous!ns p!c# h!m up. The) br!n" h!m home to 6allas+ where he sta)s w!th them !n *armers (ranch and attends church at Templo Cr!sto 5e). Throu"h people he meets at church+ he f!nds a dr)wall !nstallat!on Eob that pa)s 8J an hour and be"!ns wor#!n" s!$ &0-hour da)s a wee#.

.hen ; meet h!m for the f!rst t!me !n Ma)+ he has been !n 6allas for s!$ months. F; love !t here+F he sa)s+ w!th a sm!le full of wonder. F;t2s clean+ orderl). ?ur countr!es are chaot!c.F ; ment!on that some mer!cans worr) that !mm!"rants are overcrowd!n" the mer!ca. -e nods. F; understand th!s !sn2t In!ted 3tates and ma#!n" !t more l!#e Bat!n

m) countr). ; #now ;2m not a c!t!0en+ and ;2m not as#!n" to be one. ; Eust want perm!ss!on to wor#.F -e !s d!sma)ed to f!nd out that h!s onl) chance at res!denc) !s marr)!n" an mer!can or "ett!n" sponsored b) h!s boss. FThe "u) ; wor# for !s !lle"al too1how am ; "o!n" to as# h!m for help9F he sa)s+ lau"h!n". F.e2ll both "et thrown outHF ;t2s stran"e+ he th!n#s+ how so much !s determ!ned b) where )ou2re born. () luc#. -e2s "rateful when he "oes to bed at n!"ht+ and he2s "rateful when he wa#es at 7 a.m. for wor#. To h!m+ there !s someth!n" sat!sf)!n" about han"!n" dr)wall1the prec!s!on of the corners+ the spac!n" of the screws and na!ls. s he seals the seams w!th mud+ us!n" a fter El!as arr!ved !n 6allas+ h!s tap!n" #n!fe to smooth the wet Eo!nt compound+ he th!n#s about h!s Eourne)+ about the l!fe beh!nd h!m. -e wonders what happened to 7edro. fr!end contacted h!m to sa) he2d been deported somewhere near the border. -e recentl) made a th!rd tr) on the tra!ns+ but the last El!as heard from h!m was wee#s a"o+ when he called from 3an Bu!s 7otos!. El!as has met m!"rants who have tr!ed s!$+ e!"ht+ &0 t!mes to "et throu"h+ and thou"h he real!0es how fortunate he !s to have made !t on the f!rst attempt+ he worr!es. bout h!s "!rlfr!end+ Mar!bel+ and whether she2ll wa!t for h!m. bout when the bout sav!n" for a car and how he2ll re"!ster !t w!thout le"al res!denc).

boss w!ll "!ve h!m a ra!se and how he2ll mana"e to save 8:0+000 to repa) h!s debts and return to -onduras. s much as he l!#es !t here+ the stead) pa)+ the wa) traff!c l!"hts wor# and cops are "enerall) decent and women can wal# down the street w!thout draw!n" catcalls at ever) step+ he )earns for home. F;2m not "o!n" to be here forever+F he tells me. FMa)be four )ears+ w!th the "race of @od.F Then he pauses+ #now!n" that th!s !s what most people sa) when the) "et here+ as unprepared for the real!t!es of l!fe !n mer!ca as the) were for the Eourne) here. FThen a"a!n+ m) cous!n sa!d he2d onl) be here for two )ears+ and he2s alread) been here for e!"ht+F he sa)s. F; "uess )ou never #now.F