Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Americas leading
woodworking authority
A Gorgeous
Full-length
Mirror
Plus
Coffee Table
Transformation
5 Finishing
Tricks
Portable
CNC Router
Wooden
Boats
Turning
Bench
NEW STEEL-FRAME 14" BAND SAWS: RESAWING WONDERS
Civil War Style
Shaving Box
for Grooming Gear
(page 28)
(page 40)
(page 56)
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3 Woodworkers Journal June 2014
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W o o d w o r k e r s J o u r n a l
22 Adjustable Turning Bench
By Ernie Conover
Follow the spindle from a seated
position with this bench made for
sit-down turning.
28 19th Century Shaving Box
By A.J. Hamler
Inspired by Civil War era styles,
this storage box has dividers to
hold grooming supplies, plus a
handy mirror.
34 Mudroom Bench
By JoAnne K. Liebeler
Adding a backrest and arms, plus
a distressed finish, transforms an
abandoned coffee table.
56 Full-size Mirror
By Chris Marshall
Highly figured wood, contrasting
dowel pin accents and through
tenons make this curvy mirror
frame a handsome project.
Contents
6 Editors Note and Letters
A fond farewell; plus, readers write
about projects from recycled wood.
12 Tricks of the Trade
Make a compass from T-track.
Readers share their shop solutions.
14 Questions & Answers
Origins of the quartering system
for lumber nomenclature.
18 Stumpers
Thats where youll find the
mystery tool solution.
20 Shop Talk
London family has been building
wooden boats for over 300 years.
40 Tool Review
Chris Marshall reviews 14"
steel-frame band saws.
50 Tool Preview
Sandor Nagyszalanczy introduces
you to the Handibot portable CNC.
52 Whats In Store
Power tools, workwear and more:
whats new for your shop.
62 Finishing Thoughts
Five finishing fixes youll find in a
professionals repertoire.
66 Hey ... Did You Know?
New department features curiously
fun woodworking facts.
J une 2014
Page 22
Page 28
Page 56
Departments
Page 34
4 June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
Vo l ume 38, Numb e r 3
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June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
1,000 bd. ft. of old, old barn
wood. Made beautiful cabinets
and furniture out of it.
Jim Gier
Payson, Arizona
Just want to mention a potential
hazard when reusing and
recycling wood. If your machines
are connected to a dust collector,
and should you encounter a
Letters
FOR 25 YEARS, HES BEEN A CONSTANT.
Larry Stoiaken was hired by our founder and CEO, Ann
Rockler Jackson, to start a woodworking magazine. They
named it Todays Woodworker, and it became a
wonderful, project-based bimonthly magazine that
reached nearly 130,000 readers in its heyday. (We bought
the Woodworkers Journal in 1998 and combined the two
magazines.) Larry would be the first to tell you that he was hired for his editing
skills rather than his woodworking acumen (We didnt call him Mr. Bondo
for
nothing!) or for the fact that he looks a lot like Jerry Garcia.
Luckily for all of us, his editorial skill and well-honed insticts developed our
easygoing style, which has been well received over the years. Respect for the reader
was his core principle. He also said: Never use a hundred words where one picture
will explain it better, but take the time and space to explain the tricky parts. And keep
the editors who work for you [like yours truly] from getting too big for their britches,
or from being too goofy. His legacy is a highly respected and well-run magazine.
I say it is his legacy, because last January, Larry decided to retire. We will miss
him here at the Journal, but it is the nature of life that change is the only constant.
I have now moved into the publishers chair, and while there will be changes, I will
do my best to move forward building on his lessons and listening to our readers.
Rob Johnstone
JUNE 2014
Volume 38, Number 3
ROCKLER PRESS
THE VOICE OF THE WOODWORKING COMMUNITY
Woodworkers Journal (ISSN: 0199-1892), is published in February,
April, June, August, October and December by Rockler Press Inc.,
4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340. Periodical postage paid at
Medina, Minnesota and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send
all address changes to Woodworkers Journal, P.O. Box 6211, Harlan,
IA 51593-1711. Subscription Rates: One-year, $19.95 (U.S.); $28.95
U.S. funds (Canada and other countries). Single copy price, $5.99.
Reproduction without permission prohibited. Publications Mail Agreement
Number 0861065. Canadian Publication Agreement #40009401.
2014 Rockler Press Inc. Printed in USA.
Change is a Constant
ROB JOHNSTONE Publisher
JOANNA WERCH TAKES Editor
CHRIS MARSHALL Senior Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Senior Art Director
JOE FAHEY Associate Art Director
MATTHEW HOCKING Internet Production Coordinator
MARY TZIMOKAS Circulation Director
KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Manager
LAURA WHITE Fulfillment Manager
Founder and CEO
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON
Contributing Editors
NORTON ROCKLER
SANDOR NAGYSZALANCZY
ERNIE CONOVER
Advertising Sales
ALYSSA TAUER Advertising Director
atauer@woodworkersjournal.com
DAVID BECKLER National Sales Representative
dbeckler@woodworkersjournal.com
(469) 766-8842 Fax (763) 478-8396
Editorial Inquiries
ROB JOHNSTONE
rjohnstone@woodworkersjournal.com
JOANNA WERCH TAKES
jtakes@woodworkersjournal.com
CHRIS MARSHALL
cmarshall@woodworkersjournal.com
Subscription Inquiries
(800) 765-4119 or
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Write Woodworkers Journal, P.O. Box 6211,
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email: WWJcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Include mailing
label for renewals and address changes. For gift
subscriptions, include your name and address and
your gift recipients.
Book Sales and Back Issues
Call: (800) 610-0883
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Beds a Beaut
Having made several Murphy
beds over the years, I found
this one [Bed/Desk Combo,
February 2014] to be a beaut!
Clever is an inadequate
description! [In the same
issue], building a cabinet
around an old window
produced an excellent
example of what can be done
[Recycled Cabinet]. Several
years ago, I had access to over
6
Publisher Emeritus
LARRY N. STOIAKEN
Letters continues on page 8 ...
Jim Gier found
Februarys Bed/Desk Combo
to be a clever contraption.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 8
misplaced nail, chain, wire,
insulator, steel bullet, etc. (all
of which Ive discovered in
my lumber), there is always
the possibility of creating
sparks that will go directly
into your dust collection
system. Given that the
sawdust/oxygen mixture is
highly combustible, a very
unpleasant
explosion/fire could
result. Unless you are
looking forward to the
substantial excitement
explosions/fires can
create for your shop, be
very careful. Thanks. I
always appreciate your
publication.
Dean Santner
Alameda, California
My husband made two
bedside tables for me
for Christmas. He used
recycled shutters that
have been in his shop
for years and some
Letters continues on page 10 ...
cherry wood he had from
previous projects. He also
made a shelf for over the
bathtub from leftover walnut
he had in his shop. Both gifts
are beautiful and, while he
did spend hours making them,
he said his total cost was
something like $5.00!
Robin Seitz
Hailey, Idaho
I read with interest your
article on repurposing wood
[Recycled Cabinet] in the
February 2014 issue. I
recently visited a friends farm
and noticed some
13"-18" wide roof
boards that had been
removed from his
fathers house when
it was torn down. I
drum sanded them
just enough to
clean them up
some and to bring
out the beauty of
the wood; but not
enough to take out the saw
marks, nail holes and other
rough characteristics. I
constructed a simple chest
highlighting the full width
boards. I used simple hinges
and rope to give it an older
authentic look and plugged
the screw holes with plugs
from the actual wood. I gave it
back to my friend as a gift; he
was thrilled and felt I honored
his fathers memory.
Bill Myers
Muscatine, Iowa
Heat Off Sanding Discs
In regards to the Tricks of the
Trade Leave Sanding Discs
in the Dust [February 2014],
Woodworkers Journal
25 Outdoor Projects CD
(item #54864)$14.99
A Special Offer for our Readers ...
Just in time for SUMMER! With 25 proven outdoor projects, this CD is
full of great ideas for using your woodworking skills to enhance your
summertime enjoyment. From classic Adirondack chairs to a clean, fresh look
at a picnic table, a wooden welcome mat and even an outdoor shower, this CD
has something for everyone. So keep your tools sharp and yourself active this
summer with this collection of plans. They are all readers favorites, and all
from Woodworkers Journal, a source you can trust.
A portion of this bedside table started out
as a window shutter. Combined with
leftover cherry, its a frugal reuse.
Mudroom Bench,
page 34
WJ and our readers have
reused coffee tables, windows,
roof boards and more to make
new recycled projects.
Letters continued
To order this CD, visit:
www.woodworkersjournal.com
and click on the Store tab.
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June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
house, so can I get there and
get help if I cut myself? The
answer was, NO!
I determined that I needed
two things to survive: First, a
signalling device. I decided
on a small, portable air horn
like the ones used in small
boats. It is loud, unusual and
attention-getting. A cell phone
is a good idea, but there is not
always service where you
might be cutting.
My second need is a first
aid kit. I purchased an old
army web belt and a
couple of ammo carriers
to attach to it. I can
wear it when I am in the
woods cutting. I put in a
touniquet and at least one
blood-clotting package (fairly
common in sporting goods
stores or online) and a
generous supply of large pads,
wrapping and some tape.
John Jonash
Alton, New Hampshire
CarveWright Big Enough
After reading Computers in
the Woodshop [February
2014], I felt it was necessary
to respond to the reference to
the CarveWright CNC Router
as slightly larger in size and
capacity than the smallest,
least expensive machines. I
have [made] 30" by 48"
signage as well as full-size
furniture on my CarveWright.
I felt that the small machine
reference did not give the
CarveWright the due justice
that it deserves.
Roger Tierman
Elcho, Wisconsin
Table Has History
My grandfather built a table
similar to Ernie Conovers
Queen Anne Candlestand
Table [February 2014] in
1935. He was my inspiration
in getting interested in
woodworking.
Bill Myers
Muscatine, Iowa
I have an even easier way to
get the disc off. Wave a heat
gun over the surface of the
sanding disc for a minute or
two, and the disc will peel
right off. No prying, no messy
powder to clean off, the
surface will be left ready for
the new disc.
Les Gaulton
Falls Church, Virginia
Chainsawing Safety
I read the article by Ernie
Conover on Chainsawing
Your Own Bowl Blanks
[February 2014] with great
interest. I was cutting on my
woodlot one day when a
thought occurred to me: I am
only about 100 yards from my
A reader has additional tips for chainsawing safety resources, taking into
consideration the sawyers ability to reach help if an accident happened.
Click through Quik-Link on our
website to find information on the
tools featured in these articles:
Tool Review (page 40)
Whats In Store (page 52)
MOREONTHEWEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Theres more online at
woodworkersjournal.com
Check online for more content
covering the articles below:
Woodturning (page 22):
Adjustable sit-down bench for
woodturning (video) List of
resources for woodturners who
are disabled (PDF file)
Mudroom Bench (page 34):
Overview of an upcycled
project (video)
Tool Preview (page 50):
Handibot
high-tech
epoxy resin is applied,
repeatedly rubbed down and
polished with a couple of
coats of varnish.
Take-up Creates Seal
Despite working with all the
splendid craft, Freebodys
staff expresses great affection
for the clinker-built dinghy,
the basic rowing boat you see
by rivers and pulled up on
beaches across the world.
Its construction has a
simple effectiveness: the
slight curve around the entire
hull causes the top outer
corner of each board to bite
into the board above. When
placed in the
water the first
time, a process
called take-up
occurs. Water is
absorbed into the
timber for several
days and swells
it. The bite
between the
boards compresses
together to form a
seal. Richard told me that the
Vikings would put fine
sawdust into the water, which
absorbed between the boards
to enhance the process.
The boards are fixed to the
ribs using roves: square-
shanked copper nails fit
through from the outside of
the boat into a conical washer.
When bashed together using
two hammers, a rivet is
formed. The flattened cone
develops compression. The
excess nail is clipped off and
the stub riveted over. During
take-up, the nail hole seals.
Peter Freebodys own
clinker-built dinghy sits in a
small workshop upstairs. No
one has so far had the heart to
finish it. Maybe one day,
said Richard.
Barrie Scott
Interested people constantly
surrounded the workbench
of Michael Dresdner as he
demonstrated finishing techniques
and answered questions.
Rob Johnstone of Woodworkers Journal enthusiastically greeted
customers at Rocklers grand opening in Seattle, Washington.
WJ Personalities Do Demos
Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware celebrated the grand
opening of their new Seattle,
Washington, retail store last
January. As part of the party,
Woodworkers Journal finishing
expert, Michael Dresdner, joined
publisher Rob Johnstone in
woodworking demos, where
they shared some great
woodworking tips like
finish firewood first. Visitors
also got to ask Michael and
Rob for advice.
I had a great time at the
opening, said Johnstone.
Woodworkers are the best.
Square-shanked nails fit through
conical washers to form a rove
fastener.
22
Turning For Other than a Standup Guy
By Ernie Conover
Woodturning
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
M
y plans this month
allow anyone to
inexpensively build a
suitable bench to work at a
full-size lathe but still not put
much weight on their legs. My
hope is that this idea can open
the joys of turning to people
who otherwise might not give
woodturning a spin,
particularly if they find
standing for long periods
difficult to impossible. Like
any idea, I am sure you will
instantly think of some good
improvements. Please feel free
to share those ideas with me.
My bench plans combine
inspiration from a couple of
different sources. First, as a
presenter at the 2007
Eighteenth Century Furniture
Conference at Colonial
Williamsburg, I had the
pleasure of turning on the
This adjustable bench (the kind you sit on) allows you to scoot along your lathe,
which is helpful if standing for long periods has become physically difficult.
Inspired in part by an 18th century
people-powered lathe (below), our
author built a turning bench that
will be helpful to those who can
no longer stand for long periods
of time.
great wheel lathe while
members of the audience
supplied power.
The lathe has a sort of
bench that is no more than a
4" square beam that you can
rest your buttocks on. I took
an instant liking to the
device: it took much of the
weight off of my legs but still
allowed side-to-side
mobility. I actually climbed
into the lathe, but pulling
the pin with the round knob
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 23
Bringing the spindle down to an ergonomically correct height is the
biggest challenge to sit-down turning. The cheapest solution is a mini-
lathe, for it is easy to build a table that just clears your legs when sitting.
However, a mini is not a perfect solution, because the lathe will still be a
bit high for most people. A rule of thumb is that the center of the lathe
spindle should be at the height of the turners elbow.
I found just three full-size lathes designed specifically for the needs of
sitting people: the ONEWAY 1236SD, the Vicmarc VL200 Sit Down and
the Robust Independence Lathe. The first two lathes take the approach
of building a cantilever stand and canting the lathe toward the operator.
The Vicmarc can be canted anywhere from 0 to 45 and has a 6" range
of height adjustment, allowing the center of the spindle to be anywhere
between 29
1
2 and 35
7
16 when canted to 45. The ONEWAY tilts from
0 to 90 and, in the latter position, adjusts to a center height between
32
3
4 and 37
3
4. The Robust has a host of useful features, but its
adjustment range of 42" to 50" means the spindle is far too high to be
ergonomically comfortable for sitting. It needs to be a foot lower.
on top allows you to swing
the beam out of the way to
walk into the lathe. This also
allows for positioning the
beam nearer or farther from
the lathe, as fits the stature
of the turner.
My second source of
inspiration is a weaving
bench. I am familiar with
them because my wife is a
weaver. A bench for a loom
has to allow the weaver use
of her feet to raise and lower
the shafts by stepping on a
series of pedals. On wide
looms, the weaver must also
slide side-to-side to throw
and retrieve the shuttle.
Therefore, many looms have
a seat that is canted forward
to make the treading and
sliding more ergonomic.
I have coupled the idea of
the great wheel bench with a
weaving bench in my plans
for an adjustable bench for
woodturning.
For a video of the author
demonstrating his
adjustable turning bench,
plus a list of resources for
disabled woodturners,
please visit
woodworkersjournal.com
and click on the More on
the Web tab shown above.
MOREONTHEWEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
With any of these lathes, a chair on casters allows turners with
some use of their legs to move laterally as the spindle progresses.
Those in wheelchairs simply need to reposition the chair with the
needs of the work.
Confined to a Chair? These Lathes are for You
Vicmarc VL200 Sit Down
ONEWAY 1236SD
Robust Independence
Lathe
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 24
Woodturning continued
The Bench
This is a straightforward
woodworking project within
the capacity of anybody. You
do need a strong wood. I built
mine from white oak, which is
very strong. Maple or hickory
would be other good choices.
Drilling the holes on a
perfect 1" spacing is a
challenge! I found that
building an indexing jig
helped with this process. (You
can see it in use in the photo
above.) Setup of this jig has to
be on the perfect center of the
piece. Since the drill may
wander in drilling this 2
1
2"-
deep hole, turning the piece
upside down on each indexing
will give much more accurate
results. You may still have to
run a drill through the three
holes you are bolting to
improve alignment during
assembly.
Woodturning continues on page 26 ...
T x W x L
1 Seat (1) 1" x 5" x 33"
2 Legs (4) 1
1
4" x 2
1
2" x 35"
3 Feet (2) 1
1
4" x 2
1
2" x 25"
4 Lower Cross Member (1) 1" x 6" x 35
3
4"
5 Adjusting Blocks (2) 1" x 2
1
2" x 8
1
4"
6 Seat Supports (2) 1" x 4" x 5"
MATERIAL LIST
A short dowel embedded in a
scrap piece of sheet stock, plus a
fence, are clamped to the drill
press to index the hole spacing
when boring the benchs
adjustment holes 1" apart.
6
1
/4" Dia.
3
1
/4"
2
1
/2"
4"
1"
1"
5"
2 2
3
/8"
7
/16"
1
/4"
1
1
/2"
5
/16"Dia.
1"
1"
2"
3
1
/2"
1
/2"
1
3
/4"
4"
4"
1
1
/2"
C
L
2"
Foot
(Front View)
Seat Support
(Front View)
1
2
2
3
4
5
6
Leg
(Front and Side Views)
Exploded View
5
3
/4"
3
/4"
5
/16"Dia.
3
3
/4"
1"
1"
2"
1
1
/4"
Adjustable Block
(Front View)
25 Woodworkers Journal June 2014
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June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 28
Getting Started
Ive chosen black walnut for this project, but feel free to use your
favorite hardwood. Mill your stock to the appropriate thicknesses
per the Material List on Page 31, then cut all the individual
workpieces to size, with the exception of the 5/8"-thick work-
piece for the mirror frame. When cutting the box ends, make an
extra one or two for some test cuts in a later step.
When cutting a strip of 5/8"-thick walnut to its 3/4" width
for the mirror frame, dont cut the individual pieces to length
S
uch a box was divided to organize razors, toothbrush and
brushing powder, small scissors, brush or comb, and perhaps
needle and thread. While there were several different styles
of shaving boxes, the one presented here is fairly typical. When
opened, the small mirror attached to the box lid rests against
the front of the box to keep it upright. You can adjust the box
sizing to suit your own needs and tastes, and feel free to alter
the dividers any way you like (perhaps even to accommodate a
modern razor).
Its obvious from 19th century photography
that people held personal grooming in high
regard. Back then, men often owned a
shaving box to store their supplies.
19th Century Shaving Box
By A. J. Hamler
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 29
yet. Its more efficient and safer to first mill the frames
rabbet with the workpiece as long as possible, and then miter-
cut the individual pieces to length. Follow the steps shown in
the photos above for cutting, then taping and gluing the frame
pieces together.
After applying the final tape, check your frame assembly for
square and allow it to dry on a flat surface.
When the frame is dry, lets strengthen those miter joints with
thin splines. Secure the frame in a workbench vise (or clamp it to
the edge of a worktable), and cut an angled slot in each corner with
a handsaw (1/4" deep is plenty). Now, glue a thin (about 1/16")
piece of walnut in each slot. Wipe off the glue squeeze-out, and
once the spline has fully dried, trim it off and sand the corners
smooth. Youll barely see these in the finished frame.
Go ahead and set the 3/4" headless brads theyre keepers
for the glass and mirror backing now to prevent scratching
the finish later. Tap them in just enough to set the holes.
Building the Box
Box construction here consists of rabbet joinery, although dove-
tails are also appropriate. With a dado blade in your table saw
(or rabbeting bit in your router table), set at a height of 1/4",
cut 3/8"-wide by 1/4"-deep rabbets on the ends of the two box
sides. Now install a 3/16" straight bit in your router table, set
at a height of 3/16", to create the dadoes for the box dividers
on the inside faces of the end workpieces.
These dadoes are pretty straightforward, but take your time
with the setup to ensure the cuts are perfect. In the photo on
After installing a dado cutter in your table saw, set the height at 5/16".
With the frame face upward, run the workpiece through to create a
1/4" wide by 5/16" deep rabbet on the back side.
To cut individual frame pieces, use your regular table saw blade,
tilted to 45. With the blade angle set, cut the frame sides and
top/bottom pieces to length.
Tape the outside corners of the frame pieces together in a flat, straight
line end-to-end, then arrange the components tape side down and dab
glue into each of the open miter joints.
With glue in all four joining corners, carefully lift and fold the frame
assembly closed, adding a last piece of tape to the remaining corner
to hold everything together.
1 2
4 3
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 30
dividers are 1
1
4" from each end of the workpieces. To keep
everything straight, Ive taped an arrow on the outside face of the
workpiece denoting the correct orientation for each cut.
Rest the workpiece against the end stop with the inside face
downward. Turn on the router and slide the workpiece into the
router bit until it reaches the table stop, then pull it back. Set
the workpiece aside and make the same cut on the other work-
piece. Now, turn off the router and reposition the fence stop
(the walnut one here) so its 1
1
4" to the other side of the router
bit and clamp it in place. Repeat the cuts as before, making
sure to mind the direction of the taped-on arrows.
Recall that earlier I recommended you make some extra end
pieces? Do yourself a favor and make practice cuts on one of
these extras first, to ensure your setup is right.
Assemble the box by first dabbing glue into the rabbets on the
side pieces, then clamp the box sides and ends together. Check
the assembly for square, and allow it to dry.
The dadoes we routed in the box ends for the dividers have
rounded ends, so round the top edge of the dividers to match.
These dividers are thin, so the easiest way is to do the rounding
on a sheet of 150-grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Be sure both
dividers are flush with the box bottom. You can fine-tune this
once youve completed the roundover on the tops by inserting
both dividers into the box, turning it right side up and sliding
the whole thing over the sandpaper.
From Top to Bottom
Both the box lid and base have rounded edges; the base takes a
half roundover on just the top edge, while the lid edges are fully
rounded. Install a 3/16"-radius roundover bit into your router
table, and round all four top edges of the box base. For the lid,
first round over all four top edges, then flip it over and do the
four bottom edges.
The lid is divided into two sections, which you create by making
a cut 6" from one end. The 6" portion becomes the back of the
lid, while the 3" portion is the front.
Since the hinges essentially rejoin the lid we just cut, its most
efficient to merely fold the two lid pieces over on themselves
and cut both mortises at the same time on the router table with
a 3/4" straight bit set 1/16" high. Make sure to orient the work-
pieces for a continuous grain pattern before you proceed. Clamp
a stop block onto your router tables miter gauge or sliding fence
exactly 1
1
4" from the bit edge. Place the lid halves together
against the stop block with the cut edges down, and run both
over the bit at the same time to cut one complete hinge mortise.
Still keeping the two halves together, flip them around side-for-
side and repeat to cut the other hinge mortise.
While you have the 3/4" bit installed in the router table, raise
the height to 1/8". Now, with the stop block still in place on the
fence, create deeper mortises in the top/rear edge of the main
box for two more hinges. With the same stop block setup, these
will also position the mortises 1
1
4" from the box edges.
You can make spline slots a number of ways, but for a frame this
small, a handsaw is easiest and fastest.
Its a good idea to tap the mirror-keeper brads into place to establish
holes before applying finish.
Put glue into the slot and press the spline into place. Wipe off excess
glue and trim the spline flush once the glue dries. Sand the joints smooth.
page 31, right, you can see that Ive clamped stops on my router
tables sliding fence to control the size and location of the cuts.
Since the dividers are 1
3
8" high, you only want the workpiece to
travel 1
3
8" into the router bit. On the right side of the photo, you
can see where Ive clamped a poplar table stop to control the
forward travel of the fence to exactly 1
3
8" into the router bit.
On the left side of the same photo, you see that Ive also
clamped a walnut end stop onto the fence to position the
workpiece exactly 1
1
4" from the router bit: the dadoes for the
Cut rabbets on the ends of each of the side pieces. A sacrificial fence
protects the surface of the table saws existing fence when cutting.
Why double the mortise depth? Well, for the two-part lid we
wanted the hinge centered between the two lid halves. For the
hinges on the underside of the lid at the rear, however, we wont
cut mortises they mount flush and the deeper mortises in
the box keep the lid from raising the full thickness of the hinge.
Secure the two lid halves into your vise, mortise edges up.
Center your hinges over the back-to-back mortises, mark and
drill pilot holes, and screw the hinges into place.
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 31
T x W x L
1 Mirror Frame Sides (2) 5/8" x 3/4" x 7"
2 Mirror Frame Top/Bottom (2) 5/8" x 3/4" x 5
3
4"
3 Mirror Back (1) 1/8" x 4
3
4" x 6"
4 Box Sides (2) 3/8" x 2
1
4" x 8
1
2"
5 Box Ends (2) 3/8" x 2
1
4" x 6
3
8"
6 Dividers (2) 3/16" x 1
3
8" x 8
1
8"
7 Box Lid/Base (2) 3/8" x 7" x 9"
8 3/4" Brass Hinges (4) Brass
9 Brass Latch (1) Brass
10 Brass Washer #6S (1) Brass
11 Brass #6 x 1/2" Round-head Slotted Screw (1)
12 Brass #6 x 3/4" Flat-head Slotted Screws (3)
13 Brass #6 x 1" Round-head Slotted Screw (1)
14 Mirror (1) 1/8" x 4
3
4" x 6"
MATERIAL LIST
Final Assembly
Place the lid upside down and center the main box on the
upward-facing underside of the lid. With the box perfectly
centered, trace the inside edges of the box onto the underside
of the lid to indicate exactly where the open portion of the box
will be once the lid is attached. (See photo, top of page 33.)
Drill three countersunk screw holes in the top portion of the
mirror frame: one through the center/top, and one on each side.
2
4
5
3
/16"
3
/16"
3
/4"
1
/8"
1
1
/4"
1
1
/4"
1
3
/8"
3
/8"
5
/16"
1
/4"
Box End
(Inside View)
Box Side
(Top View)
Using a pair of carefully placed stops on your router table miter gauge,
create the dadoes in each end piece for the box dividers.
1
1
10
2
2
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
7
7
8
9
11
12
13
14
Exploded View
Mirror Frame
(End View)
Hold the two lid halves together to cut the hinge
mortises in both pieces at the same time.
With the lid halves clamped and held in a bench vise,
drill pilot holes and install the brass hinges.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 32
clearance with the box sides. Once youve done that, you can
remove the frame and set it aside. After adding a finish to the
rest of the box, well mount the glass and mirror backing, and
permanently reattach it to the box lid.
Install hinges in the rear mortises we cut earlier with the
knuckles to the rear, then place the inverted box atop the
lid/mirror assembly, lining the box up with your outline marks
from earlier. Mark the hinge locations on the underside of the
lid and drill pilot holes for the hinge screws. As before, insert
screws into the hinge leaves and double-check that they will
not extend through the lid; 3/8" screws, once paired with the
thickness of the hinge leaves, should be right, but check this
before installation.
Before attaching the box base, apply a finish to the inside of the
box and dividers. Shellac was typical for items like this. I chose
amber shellac to really bring out the color of walnut. Shellac the
dividers and box interior separately, taking care not to get shellac
on the bottom edge of the box where youll apply glue, then slip
the dividers into place when the shellac dries.
Install the box base with a combination of glue and nails: at
only 7" wide, wood movement isnt an issue here, so glue wont
present a problem. Apply glue to the bottom edge of the main
box and center it on the box base, and clamp up the assembly
till dry. Once the glue dries, reinforce the bottom with headless
brads (3/4" or 7/8") or pin nails. Note in the photo at the bottom
of page 33 that before gluing on the base, I traced an outline of
the box on the underside of the base to act as a nailing guide
place nails only in the dead center of this outline.
Installing the Locking Post
Drill a pilot hole in the front edge of the box for a #6 x 1" brass
screw that will act as the locking post for the box lid. Place the
Round over the top edges of the dividers to match the dadoes. Sandpaper
works fine, but you could use a very small roundover bit in your router
table if you like.
The box base gets a roundover on the top edge, while the lid receives a
full roundover on both top and bottom edges to form a bullnose.
The two side holes should be about 1/2" from the hinged edge
of the two-part lid. Be sure that all three holes are drilled in the
solid portion of the frame, about 1/4" from the outer edge,
avoiding the rabbeted section where the mirror goes.
Before attaching the mirror frame to the lid, slip your screws
into the holes so they are fully seated, then check the screw depth
against the edge of the lid: you do not want those screws going
through and coming out the top of the lid. If the screws are too
long, use the next shorter size.
Center the mirror frame in the marks you made on the
underside of the lid (you should have about 1/8" clearance on
the sides and a bit more at the ends) and screw the frame into
place. This step is just to set the screw holes and check the
To accurately place the mirror on
the underside of the lid, perfectly
center the box and then pencil in
the box opening to use as a
placement guide.
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 33
hole exactly in the center of the box edge, cen-
tered from side to side. Drive the locking-post
screw into this hole, but not too far. We need it
there to mark for the locking-post hole in the
lid and well drive it to final depth once the lid
is complete.
Attach the lid to the box via the rear-mounted hinges, and
close the box so the underside of the front edge of the lid rests
atop the locking-post screw. (Hold the lid flat while you do this.)
Press the front of the lid down firmly onto the locking post screw
to make an indentation in the underside of the lid.
Using the indentation as a guide, drill a 5/16" hole exactly
centered on the mark. Be sure to place scrap wood underneath
while drilling to prevent the drill bit from causing tearout on the
opposite side when it comes through. The lid should fully close
now, with the locking-post screw passing neatly through the
center of the hole. With this done, go ahead and apply finish to
the rest of the project.
Adding the Final Hardware
Theres still the matter of keeping the box lid closed when your
grooming tasks are finished. For that, its time to add the latch
hook. Latch hooks really havent changed over the last couple
hundred years. As long as you use one made of solid brass,
rather than brass-plated, any commercially available latch hook
is fine and will give your project a touch of high quality. I used
a 1
1
4" hook, but a 1" hook would work just as well. Latch hooks
typically come with a Phillips head screw, which is fine, but if
you want to hold to period authenticity, replace it with a slotted
screw instead.
With the lid closed, adjust the height of the locking-post
screw to allow you to slip the latch hook beneath the head with-
out binding too tightly. Hold the latch hook in place and make
a centered mark on the lid through the hooks top screw eye.
Drill a pilot hole on your mark. Insert the latch hooks mounting
screw through the hook eye, slip a washer onto the screw beneath
the hook, and fasten the hook to the lid. Adjust the latch screw
so the hook twists easily, but without any extra play in the action.
I used a #6 x 1/2" screw to mount the latch hook, and although
the lid is only 3/8" thick the combined thicknesses of the hook
and the brass washer underneath it were sufficient to make
it just right. As with every other instance of driving screws
through the lid of the box, check and double-check before
driving the screw.
The final step is to reattach the mirror frame permanently to
the underside of the lid with its three screws. Here, Ill offer a
bit of advice. Dont yield to the temptation of gluing the mirror
frame to the underside of the lid. If the mirror ever cracks,
youll need to be able to easily remove the frame from the box
lid in order to replace the glass.
A.J. Hamler is former editor of Woodshop News, and the author
of the upcoming book Civil War Woodworking, Volume II.
Center the mirror frame in your outline on the underside of the lid and
screw it into place to set the screw installation holes. Be sure to double-
check screw length to avoid driving a screw completely through the lid.
Glue and clamp the base to the bottom of the box. Note that the inner
surfaces are already finished its much easier to do the inside before
assembly.
When the glue on the box base has dried, drive some small brads through
the bottom to add a bit of strength.
scarves, gloves and other accessories.
And the relatively shallow depth of 23"
doesnt consume much floor space.
space, a project was born: creat-
ing a mudroom bench out of a
coffee table.
Building a mudroom bench
from a coffee table isnt a huge
leap of project-logic. The coffee
table Im talking about is solid
wood and super strong. Its 17
1
2" height
is ideal for sitting comfortably to remove
footwear. It has drawers that can store
Sad and abandoned in the garage, this coffee table had
seen better days. With a little imagination and elbow
grease, it has started a new life as a mudroom bench.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 34
I
ts got dirty, back-door secrets.
Neglected and unseemly, its the
dumping ground for filthy footwear,
mismatched gloves and outerwear. Im
talking about the back entry, or what
architects call the mudroom.
Just about all of us could benefit from
some organization and tidiness in this
transitional war zone. So in an attempt to
bring some function and flair to this
By JoAnne K. Liebeler
This functional, cottage-styled
mudroom bench was repurposed
from an old coffee table. Heres
how we did it.
Mudroom Bench
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 35
I should also mention its mahogany, a
beautiful species of wood that deserves to
be buffed up, polished and shown off. With
structural bones like that, this coffee table
was ideal for recycling, repurposing,
rebuilding and repainting.
The idea was to clean up the mahogany
drawers, give it a two-step distressed
paint finish and build our own backrest
and arms. Im no fine
woodworker, but these
are basic techniques
and within anyones
grasp. Besides, by
reusing a piece of
furniture, this was an
affordable makeover.
Reinvention
Begins
The coffee table had
been languishing for
decades in a garage.
The finish was worn.
There were a couple
of dings and dents.
A family of mice made
a condo out of the
drawers. But there
was no water damage
or warping. So it was a
good starting base.
The first step was to
clean up the surfaces for painting. This
was a relatively easy sanding job since
they needed only to be residue-free and
smooth. A palm sander and 120-grit
paper did the trick.
Sanding the mahogany drawer fronts was
a little more intensive. It took three passes
with 80-, 120- and 220-grit sandpaper to
remove the old varnish and prepare them
for a new finish facelift.
The interior drawer bottoms were another
story. Their condition ranged from OK
to disgusting. Some sort of unidentified
gummy-gluey-gobs were stuck on the sur-
face and probably had been since the
Reagan administration.
Thank goodness for a cabinet scraper. It
was the tool for getting into those narrow
drawers to scrape out the gunk.
The last step on the drawers was dealing
with those chewed-up sides. A good 1/2"
to 3/4" was completely missing thanks to
some toothy little mouse. The solution?
Clean up and cut down all the drawer
side profiles so theyd match.
To do that, I clamped a pair of drawers
face to face and drilled two holes at their
intersection for jigsaw access. I marked
for the 3/4" cut and
clamped a straight-
edge to guide the
saws base plate. Just
a quick note about
that: I cant be
trusted to cut a
clean, straight line
without some help.
The guide was the
perfect solution.
All the drawers
were reshaped, with
the result that each
drawer side now has
a shallow, U-shaped
profile on its top
edge. Somewhere
in rodent world, a
mouse is laughing
at the extra work his
drawer-chewing
caused.
Coffee and Tea to an Almost-Settee
Of course, the most transformative part of
this project was to build a back and arms.
I used 3/4" plywood for the back panel
and got some help cutting it to size. Thats
because the table saw is a power tool I
still find unnerving. Plus, big old honkin
sheets of plywood are awkward. So its
nice to have extra hands for this. Next,
I measured for and cut angled corners.
Here, a shop-made fence was secured to
help make an accurate cut.
The angled corners were the beginning
of filling out some design details on
this piece. 1 x 4 pine was cut to
picture-frame the five exposed edges
of the back. To soften the hard lines and
angles, I gave a little bevel to the edges
using a sharp block plane. Then they
The author reshaped the top of the drawer
sides to remove rodent damage. She used a
Forstner bit to shape the ends of the new
profile, and then connected the dots with a
handheld jigsaw. Note the straightedge guide.
Sanding off the old finish cleaned off the
crud and corruption of years of abuse,
and also prepared the surface for paint.
For a video of the author talking about this project,
please visit woodworkersjournal.com and click on the
More on the Web tab shown above.
MOREONTHEWEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Mitered corners on the plywood back added
shape to a boxy project. A shop-made guide
ensured the cut would be made accurately.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 36
were glued and pinned in place, which
set the stage for the centerpiece:
mahogany slats. Talk about a misers
dream! I used 1/4"-thick lauan mahogany
plywood, which only costs $12 a sheet.
The slats were ripped to four-inch widths
and cut to length.
The arm assemblies were constructed
from 1 x 2 pine pieces (see the Drawings)
and screwed together as a simple box.
They got a decorative kiss with some
angle-cut 1 x 4 armrests.
Painting and Staining
The seat, back and arms were already
sanded to accept the two-step paint finish
a black undercoat topped by a basil
green color. The green complements the
mahoganys red tones, so its a nice con-
trast for the wood. It also has a muted,
neutral quality to it. That means it
should be able to withstand the shifting
winds of color trends over the years.
With a two-step distressed finish, you
dont have to knock yourself out painting
the undercoat over the entire structure.
Only hints of it will be revealed. So the
base coat painting focused on areas
where the natural wear patterns would
be: edges and corners.
For the drawer fronts and slats, I went
with a mahogany colored stain. That
rich, ruddy color is also beautiful. The
stain was flooded on and wiped off. The
job was finished with a topcoat of spray
of shellac followed by sprayed lacquer.
Staining and finishing before assembly
is a good practice. You know darn well
that fluctuations in humidity mean wood
expands and contracts. By coloring and
finishing all the pieces, you wont see
any telltale bare-wood lines when the
wood shrinks. Leave the tan line to that
kid in the old Coppertone
ads.
Putting it Together
Mahogany plywood might be affordable
and nice-looking, but its a bit flimsy.
Face-nailing the slats onto the back
panel wouldnt look great, so securing
the slats with glue was the only reason-
able option.
I played around with the spacing
opting for a pennys width separation or
so between each one then glued them
in place with yellow glue. To get good
adhesion, a 2 x 4 was laid over the top
of the slats with a brick or two on top
of it working as a clamp.
Once the glue was
dry, I secured the
subassemblies to the
base. The picture-
frame detailed back-
rest was held back 1"
so it could sit on top
of the coffee table
base and locate the
plywood accurately.
A few countersunk screws driven in
from the backside of the piece definitely
turned this former table into a bench.
Securing the arms provided rock-solid
stability. Even though it was awkward to
do, the armrests screws were driven in
from the underside, to hide the fasteners.
The author used spacers to get a regular
pattern between the back slats. When she
had figured the spacing out, she stained the
slats to match the drawer fronts, then applied
shellac from a spray can.
A mahogany stain on the well-sanded drawer fronts added life to the surface (left). A coat of black
paint, strategically placed, would provide the contrast to the green paint applied later. Then the
author would rub down through the green paint to expose wear patterns of the black color.
The arm subassembly was glued and
screwed together. Then it was secured to the
top and the backrest with screws. Finally, the
armrests were screwed in place.
6
6
7 7
8
2
3
/8"
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 37
Final Flourishes and an Almost-flop
That just left the final decorative touches:
hardware, a comfy cushion and distressing
the finish. I chose round, hammered iron
knobs to echo the undercoat color.
Youd think finding fabric for a cushion
would be rote, routine and dull as unbut-
tered toast. But it had to be carefully cho-
sen. I considered the design (traditional),
the colors (basil green and red wood tones)
and the design elements (mahogany as the
star attraction). A muted paisley-patterned
corduroy was the solution.
The last step was to distress the finish so
hints of the black undercoat would show.
The protocol called for steel wool and
denatured alcohol to gently take down the
topcoat. My first attempt didnt go well. The
topcoat seemed resistant to the alcohol.
So I slathered on more and rubbed harder.
When the topcoat finally began to dissolve,
it did so without grace. Blotchy, skunky
chunks of green paint came off. It even
got down to bare wood.
JoAnne Liebeler has been a host and
producer of TV shows such as Hometime,
Home Savvy and Passport to Design.
T x W x L
1 Back Panel (1) 3/4" x 22
1
2" x 51"
2 Panel Frame Sides (2) 3/4" x 3
1
2" x 15
1
2"
3 Panel Frame Corners (2) 3/4" x 3
1
2" x 8
3
8"
4 Panel Frame Top (1) 3/4" x 3
1
2" x 38
3
4"
5 Back Slats (11) 3/16" x 3
7
8" x 17
7
8"
6 Arm Top and Bottoms (4) 3/4" x 1
5
8" x 14"
7 Arm Stiles (6) 3/4" x 1
5
8" x 5
1
8"
8 Arm Front and Backs (4) 3/4" x 1
5
8" x 6
5
8"
9 Armrests (2) 3/4" x 3
1
2" x 17
1
2"
10 Drawer Knobs (6) Rockler item #37413
MATERIAL LIST
Exploded View
Ill blame it on a combination of poor
technique and the wrong applicator,
because when I switched to a Scotch-
Brite
3 TON
HEAVY DUTY
STEEL FLOOR JACK
LOT NO. 68048 /69227/62116
$
69
99
REG. PRICE $159 .99
Weighs 74 lbs.
Item
68048
shown
SAVE
$90
Item
98199
shown
1 0" SLIDING
COMPOUND
MITER SAW
LOT NO.
98199
61307
SAVE
$42
SAVE
46%
$
57
99
REG.
PRICE
$99 .99
Item 97181 shown
4" x 36" BELT/
6" DISC SANDER
LOT NO.
97181/93981
LOT NO.
68784
69387
62270
REG.
PRICE
$649 .99
$
369
99
44", 13 DRAWER
INDUSTRIAL QUALITY
ROLLER CABINET
Item
68784
shown
"We Are Impressed With the Quality...
The Price is Incredible"
Car Craft Magazine
Super High
Gloss Finish!
2633 lb. Capacity
Weighs 245 lbs.
SAVE
$280
NEW!
S
U
P
E
R
C
O
U
P
O
N
!
LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 9/6/14. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
REG. PRICE
$149.99
$
129
99
$89
99 SAVE
$
60
Item
69257
shown
14" OSCILLATING
SPINDLE SANDER
LOT NO.
69257/95088
S
U
P
E
R
C
O
U
P
O
N
!
LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount
or coupon or prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. Offer good while supplies last.
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$
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2 HP INDUSTRIAL
5 MICRON
DUST COLLECTOR
LOT NO.
97869/61790
Item
97869
shown
70 Gallon Capacity
S
U
P
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P
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269
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$199
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12" x 33-3/8" WOOD LATHE
WITH REVERSIBLE HEAD
LOT NO.
34706
24" CLAMP AND
CUT EDGE GUIDE
$
6
99
REG. PRICE $12 .99
LOT NO. 66126
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 50
Handibot: Smart Machine
of the Masses?
By Sandor Nagyszalanczy
Tool Preview
A portable, automated routing machine that makes short work of
cutting and shaping tasks in the shop or just about anywhere else.
I
f theres one machine thats
had a revolutionary impact
on modern woodworking,
its the CNC router. These
computer-numerical controlled
(CNC) devices use computer
programs to direct the
mechanized motions of a
router (or other motor-powered
cutter) in three-dimensional
space. CNC routers can do
just about anything traditional
the desktop models found
in more and more small
woodshops, had one thing in
common: they were stationary
machines that rout workpieces
clamped onto a worktable,
with the size of the workpiece
limited in size by the capacity
of the machine itself.
But one CNC manufacturer
has changed that, creating a
small, portable machine called
the Handibot
Smart Power
Tool. Its designed to sit
directly atop the workpiece.
This allows you to bring the
machine to the wood, which can
be practically any size: a long
board on a benchtop, a wide
plank or slab set on sawhorses,
a large panel on a vertical wall,
or even a beam spanning a
ceiling (yes, itll even operate
upside down!). Smaller than a
portable thickness planer, the
37-lb. Handibots high-density
polyethylene chassis has built-
in handles that makes it easy to
move to wherever its needed.
ShopBot, the Durham, North-
Carolina-based company that
builds the Handibot, calls it
the first Universal Digital
Power Tool (UDPT): a smart
machine thats ready to tackle
automated routing tasks on the
jobsite as well as in the shop.
Simple Automation
To operate the Handibot, you
must connect its control box
to a PC computer with a USB
cable. The computer runs
special software that drives
the routers movements in
three axes: left to right, front
to back, up and down. High
woodworking machines
and traditional woodworkers
can do: cut out parts,
engrave signs, create joinery,
carve decorations, shape
scrollwork, bore holes, rout
pockets for mounting
hardware and lots more.
Up until now, all CNC
routers, from the giant mass-
production machines churning
away in furniture factories to
For a video of the author
putting the Handibot
portable CNC router into
action, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com
and click on the More on
the Web tab shown above.
MOREONTHEWEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Despite its small (6 x 8) work
area, Handibot can be accurately
repositioned, allowing you to rout
much larger workpieces.
A DeWALT compact router handles
small carving, cutting and shaping
chores. Its 1/4" collet accepts
regular router bits or end mills.
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 51
quality stepper motors
control the routers position
precisely, with an accuracy
of +/- .00025". To power its
cutting, Handibot uses a
DeWALT DWP611, a 7-amp
compact router with a 1/4"
collet that accepts both
standard router bits and
machinist-style end mills
used for cutting and shaping
foam, plastics, aluminum
and other materials. Using
popular CNC programs like
PartWorks3D and VCarve
Pro, Handibot can be
programmed to do all the same
kinds of cutting, shaping and
machining operations that
any other 3-axis CNC router
can perform.
To rout a part with the
Handibot, first set it atop the
work surface and either clamp
or hold it in place (its own
weight is enough to secure it
for light cutting operations,
such as engraving). On a
computer connected to the
machine, load the file for the
desired operation into
Handibots control program.
Once a router bit has been
chucked in place (top photo
at right) and zeroed to the
work surface, pressing a start
button (either in the software
or the actual green button
atop the unit) launches the
Handibot into action. Red
LED lights flash a warning as
the machine is active, jigging
and jogging through its
programmed routing routine.
Hooking it up to a shop vac
sucks up at least some of the
dust. The router shuts off and
the warning lights turn green
when the task is complete.
Even though the Handibots
work area is only 8" long and
6" wide (itll cut up to 4"
deep), you can rout much
larger areas by relocating the
unit to another section of the
work surface (bottom photo at
right). Indexing holes and
slots on the machines base
make it relatively easy to
register the machine
accurately relative to the
previous cut.
Kickstarter and Handibot
But Handibots unique design
and portability are only half
the story. Just as remarkable
is how the tool was funded on
the Internet through
Kickstarter, a popular website
which promotes funding
proposals for all manner of
projects, events and business
ventures. These range from
making a film or recording a
CD album, to staging a
festival or fashion show, to
creating jewelry or sculpture,
to designing a new childrens
toy or type font. People who
sign on as backers can pledge
money at various specified
levels. Depending on the
pledge level, backers may
receive a premium, like a
ticket to the proposed concert
or show, or a completed CD or
piece of jewelry.
Shopbot launched their
HandiBot funding campaign
in July 2013, with a proposed
goal of $125,000 to fund
the first manufacturing run
of the machine. Not only did
they meet their goal, but by
the end of the pledge period,
theyd raised nearly
$350,000, contributed by
more than 350 individual
backers. Those who
contributed at the $1,995
pledge level (or higher) were
rewarded with one of the
first-run Kickstarter Edition
units which shipped in late
2013. ShopBot plans to
launch a series of applications
(apps), small programs that
will allow the Handibot to be
run from a smartphone or
tablet-style computer, like the
iPad. But their long-term
plans include even loftier
goals: to create a web-based
system that enables anyone to
participate and collaborate in
open-source development of
apps, as well as in the further
development of hardware and
accessories for the Handibot.
Whether or not ShopBot
achieves its goals, its clear
that the Handibot, and smart
tools like it, are going to have
a significant impact on the
way small-shop woodworkers
make sawdust in the future.
The Handibot Developer
Edition currently sells for
$2,795 and is available online
at: www.handibot.com .
Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a
contributing editor to Woodworkers
Journal. His books are available at
Amazon.com.
Although its built much like a
full-sized CNC router, the
Handibots small size and light
weight make it easily portable.
Stepper motors and precise mechanical components control
the motion of a compact router as it shapes two- or three-
dimensional parts with great accuracy.
Diablo Universal Sanding Discs
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
D
iablos new Universal
Sanding Discs have
a 12-hole pattern that
allows for fast, precise align-
ment when mounting to either
an 8-hole or a 5-hole disc
sander: its a one-size-fits-all
design. Made with a premium
ceramic blend, these discs
offer fast material removal and
a long sanding life. A Clog-
SHIELD high performance
stearate coating reduces
pitch buildup and clogging
for maximum productivity.
A Hook and Lock
backing
produces continuous secure
connection of the disc to the
sander. The Diablo Universal
Sanding Discs are sold in
packs of four, 15 and 50 pads,
as well as two seven-piece
project packs. Pricing ranges
from $4.97 to $19.97.
Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware is now offering
Barn Door Hardware kits for
interior rolling doors. Available
in black and stainless steel,
the hardware kits contain two
latches, five wall brackets, a
center guide, two floor stops,
two end stops and a 6" track,
offering quiet performance and
a door thats easy to roll. The
hardware will support doors
Whats In Store
Contact Information
Affinity Tool Works
866-588-0395
Bosch
877-267-2499
Center for Furniture
Craftsmanship
207-594-5611
Diablo
800-334-4107
PORTER-CABLE
888-848-5175
Rockler
800-279-4441
Wrangler
888-784-8571
Why We Make Things and
Why It Matters (ISBN 978-1-
56792-511-1) is published
by David R. Godine and
is priced at $24.95.
The Portamate PM-7500
Deluxe Miter Saw Stand from
Affinity Tool Works has
20" quick-release universal
machinery mounts that snap
securely to the aluminum top
for quick tool changes to
support benchtop planers,
band saws, scroll saws, miter
saws and more. The stand
measures 49" wide but
expands to 8 feet for cutting
long pieces. It can support
up to 500 pounds and has
QUIK LINK
www.woodworkersjournal.com
NOTE: See Quik-Link at
woodworkersjournal.com
for web links to all of these
products.
Rockler Barn Door Hardware
New Tools for Your Shop
up to 250 pounds in weight,
while the solid aluminum
track provides strength that
minimizes warping, bending
or dents. The hand-forged
brackets are available in
shapes including horseshoe,
spade, rectangle and round
stick. Prices for the kits
(item 57686) range from
$289 to $549.
In the book Why We Make
Things and Why It Matters:
The Education of a
Craftsman by Peter Korn, the
author takes the reader along
on his personal journey
toward finding meaning in
creative work. Korn is the
founder of The Center for
Furniture Craftsmanship in
Maine and, prior to that, was
an instructor at the Anderson
Ranch Arts Center in
Colorado, a self-employed
furniture designer/maker and
a carpenter. The book visits
each of those aspects of his
life and explores questions
such as how the making of
objects shapes our identities
and how the products of
creative work inform society.
Why We Make
Things and Why It Matters
53 Woodworkers Journal June 2014
Wrangler RIGGS WORKWEAR
Construction Pant
Drill/Driver with a tool-less
chuck and variable speeds
ranging from 0-350 or 0-
1,500 rpm. The kit includes
both 4.0 amp/hour (PCC685L)
and 1.0 amp/hour (PCC680L)
lithium-ion batteries, plus
accessories. Suggested retail
price for the Four-Tool Combo
Kit is $239.
Wrangler
, the
jeans company, now
offers the RIGGS
WORKWEAR
Construction Pant.
The CORDURA
fabric is engineered
to blend with cotton
for maximum strength
without sacrificing
comfort. The WORK-
WEAR pants have
reinforced back
pockets, a right side
hammer loop and a
patented leather tape
measure reinforce-
ment on the right
front pocket. An
abrasion test con-
ducted using 800-grit
sandpaper showed them to
last twice as long compared
to the average of 10 other
North American canvas fabric
brands. The pants come in
mens regular and big and tall
sizes, with suggested pricing
of $63.50.
Portamate PM-7500
Deluxe Miter Saw Stand
PORTER-CABLE 20V MAX Lithium
Ion Four-Tool Combo Kit
Integrated expanding base
extensions add up to 29"
left to right of additional
workpiece support and retract
to 18" wide when not in use
to maximize the tools compact
size. A clear lower guard
creates an unobstructed view
while a form-fitting trigger
handle provides intuitive
cutting and ambidextrous
use. The CM8S is powered
by a 12-amp, 5,600 rpm
motor and has a suggested
retail price of $469.
PORTER-CABLEs 20V
MAX* Lithium Ion Four-Tool
Combo Kit (PCCK614L4)
includes their new 4.0
Amp/Hour MaxPack
Lithium
Ion Battery with an extended
runtime. All the tools in the
20V MAX* line will work
interchangeably with either
this battery, or the original 1.0
amp/hour battery.
In the Four-Tool Combo
Kit are three of the
newer tools added to the
line: the 6
1
2" Circular
Saw (PCC660B) with
2
1
8" cutting capacity at
90; Reciprocating Tiger
Saw
(PCC670B), a
lightweight (4.4 pound)
option for cutting wood
and metal in tight
areas; and a Pivoting
Flashlight (PCC700B)
with four LEDs that
deliver 120 lumens for
visibility. Also included
is a PCC601 1/2"
a 32" work height, as well as
a four-outlet onboard power
center and LED worklight.
The stands four legs fold up
for storage or transport. The
Portamate PM-7500 Deluxe
Miter Saw Stand is priced
at $259.
The Bosch CM8S 8-Inch
Single Bevel Sliding
Compound Miter Saw weighs
only 37 pounds while offer-
ing the same cutting as a 10"
miter saw. Its maximum cut-
ting capacity is 12
1
4" cross-
cuts at 0, 8" miters at 45,
2
3
4" upright bases and 3
1
2"
max crowns.
Bosch CM8S 8-Inch Single Bevel Sliding
Compound Miter Saw
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 54
For product information in the blink of an eye, visit
www.woodworkersjournal.com and click on the
Tools & Supplies tab.
ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address
1-800-BunkBed 38 www.1800bunkbed.com/wj
Abrasive Resource 55 www.abrasiveresource.com
American Fabric Filter Co. 38 www.americanfabricfilter.com
American Steel Span 39 www.steelspan.com
Armor Crafts 15 www.armorplans.com
Badger Hardwoods of WI, Ltd. 38 www.badgerwood.com
Bainbridge Manufacturing, Inc. 25 www.bainbridgemfg.com
Bartley Classic Reproductions, Ltd. 47 www.bartleycollection.com
Beall Tool Company 38 www.bealltool.com
Bench Dog Tools 47 www.benchdog.com
Briwax 19 www.briwax.com/WWJ
Cabinets Quick 38 www.cabinetsquick.com
Cherry Tree Toys 25 www.cherrytreetoys.com
Christian J Hummul Co. 39 www.hummul.com
CMT USA Inc. 15 www.cmtusa.com
CNC Shark 13 www.rockler.com
Colonial Saw 55 www.csaw.com/lamello
Cook Woods 47, 55 www.cookwoods.com
Cooks Saw MFG, L.L.C. 39 www.cookssaw.com
Country Home Products 27, 55 www.drpower.com
The Craftsman Gallery 38 www.chipsfly.com
Epilog Laser 3, 38 www.epiloglaser.com/wwj
Freud 68 www.freudtools.com/quadra-cut
Fuji Spray Equipment 11 www.fujispray.com
General International 11 www.general.ca
Gorilla Glue 11 www.gorillatough.com
Grex Power Tools 15 www.grextools.com
Harbor Freight Tools 49 www.harborfreight.com
JET Tools 2 www.jettools.com/14bandsaw
Laguna Tools 9 www.lagunatools.com
Leigh Industries, Ltd. 55 www.leighjigs.com
Lignomat 27 www.lignomat.com,
www.moistureproblems.info
MDHearingAid 65 www.mdhearingaid.com/YP12
Norton Abrasives 5 www.nortonconsumer.com
Oliver Machinery 17 www.olivermachinery.net
Osborne Wood Products, Inc. 3, 38 www.woodencomponents.com
PanelPro 38 www.panelpro.com
Quick Screws 25 www.quickscrews.com
Ready2Rout 27 www.rockler.com
Rikon Power Tools 7 www.rikontools.com
Rockler Woodworking
and Hardware 38, 43, 55 www.rockler.com
SuperMax Tools 63 www.supermaxtools.com
Tablelegs.com 55 www.tablelegs.com
Tormek 3 www.tormek.com
Tub OTowels 55 www.tubotowels.com
Wagner Meters 17 www.wagnermeters.com
Williams & Hussey Machine Co. 63 www.williamsnhussey.com
Woodworkers Source 15 www.101woods.com
Woodworking.com 55 www.woodworking.com
WORKSHOP 67 www.workshopvacs.com
Woodworking Tools & Supplies Index
June 2014
6.25 Tow-Behind
Trimmer/Mower is the solution.
Trim fence lines, garden edges,
and more while you mow!
800-687-6575 www.DRtrimmer.com/tow
Gentle curves, repeated throughout this project, suggest
a delicate stature, while the figured maple and
contrasting dowels add striking details. Subtle antique
brass pivot bolts keep the emphasis on the wood.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 56
I
f, like me, you have teenage girls, you know
the value of a mirror. Full-length? Bonus!
But its equally handy for everyone in the
family, too.
While you could pay to have your mirror glass
specially cut at a glass shop, you could also pur-
chase an inexpensive full-length mirror at a depart-
ment store: use the mirror glass, discard the frame.
I happened to have an old wall mirror in need of a
better frame. Whatever your source of mirror glass,
be sure to adjust the Material List dimensions for
the mirror frame rails and stiles, as well as the
length of the stretcher, if your glass differs in size
from the 14" x 54" mirror (piece 1) we specify here.
Exquisitely figured tiger
maple, contrasting dowel pin
accents and through tenons
give this curvy mirror frame
real heirloom potential.
Full-size
Mirror
Small Shop Journal
by Chris Marshall
If you recycle an old wall mirror as our author did, first remove the
backing from the frame and extract the glass. Measure its dimensions
carefully so you can modify the mirror frame and stretcher sizes if your
glass differs in size from ours.
Whitesides (routerbits.com) 7/8"-dia. carbide Ultimate Combination
Flush Trim/Pattern Router Bit (inset) tamed any tearout on this figured
maple when used to template-rout the mirror frames curved rails.
Rout a 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet around the inside back edge of the mirror
frame. Be sure the rabbet will enable the glass to fit down easily into
the frame. Chisel the curved outside corners of the recess square.
Cut the deep stopped mortises on the ends of
the mirror frame rails with a mortising machine
and 1/4" hollow chisel, or with a drill press and
a 1/4" Forstner or brad-point bit. Square up the
mortise ends, if necessary.
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 57
Building the Mirror Frame
Since the mirror frame rails and stiles (pieces 2 and 3) will be in
full view every time someone looks in this mirror, select this stock
by prioritizing consistent grain pattern and color, with no visible
defects. Rip and crosscut straight blanks for the parts, then lay
out 1/4"-wide, 3/4"-long mortises on the rails. Position them
3/8" in from the part ends. Hog out the waste to a depth of 1
1
4"
with a mortising machine and a hollow-chisel bit, or with a drill
press and 1/4" Forstner bit. Flip the rail workpieces end-for-end
once the mortises are roughed in, and make a second round of
passes to center the mortises exactly on part thickness.
Square up the ends of the mortises and clean up their walls,
if necessary, before you head to the table saw to cut matching
tenons on the ends of the stiles. These tenons have 3/8"-wide
shoulders on their ends and 1/4" shoulders on their broad faces.
After theyre cut to shape, check their fit in the mortises to make
sure the joints close fully and the frame remains flat and square.
If everything registers properly, glue the pieces together. Drill and
install four short dowel pins (pieces 4) to lock these corner joints.
We used walnut dowels throughout this project to add dashes of
punctuating contrast to the figured maple.
You could form the gentle curves on the ends of the frame one
at a time, laying them out with a flexible batten, but a template
will guarantee uniformity. Draw a grid on a piece of scrap thats a
few inches wider and longer than the frame rails, and trace the
arch by bending a batten of thin plywood or Masonite
. Cut the
template to shape, and smooth its curved edge carefully on a
sander. Now use your template to draw the arches: position it so
the curves will leave 1
1
2" of stock on the ends of the rails. Cut
the curves with a jigsaw, sawing about 1/16" outside your layout
lines. Then clamp the template to each rail so it is aligned with
the layout line, and use a bearing-guided flush-trim or pattern
bit to refine the curves to their final form.
All thats left to do on the frame for now is to rout a 3/8" x 3/8"
rabbet around the inside back edge to make room for the mirror
glass and back panel. Rout this recess in two or three deepening
passes to minimize tearout, and chisel the corners square.
2
3
3
/8"
3
/4"
1
1
/4"
1
1
/2"
1
1
/2"
3
/8"
C
L
5
12"
2"
2
1
/4"
4
1
/4"
4
1
/4"
5
8
1
/2"
7
/8"
3
/4"
1
1
/4"
1
3
/4"
1"
1"
2"
C
L
5
8
T x W x L
1 Mirror Glass (1) 1/8" x 14" x 54"
2 Mirror Frame Rails (2) 3/4" x 3" x 16
3
8"
3 Mirror Frame Stiles (2) 3/4" x 1
1
2" x 55
7
8"
4 Mirror Frame Dowel Pins (4) 1/4" Dia. x 5/8"
5 Stand Legs (4) 3/4" x 9" x 41"
6 Splines (2) 1/4" x 1" x 12"
7 Upper Leg Dowels (12) 1/4" Dia. x 3/4"
8 Stand Rails (2) 3/4" x 3
1
2" x 14"
9 Lower Leg Dowels (12) 1/4" Dia. x 2
7
8"
10 Stretcher (1) 3/4" x 6
1
2" x 16
3
4"
11 Floating Tenons (6) 1/2" x 1
1
4" x 2"
12 Stand Rail Dowels (6) 1/4" Dia. x 1
3
4"
13 Plywood Back Panel (1) 1/4" x 14" x 54"
14 Glass Retainer Clips (8) Rockler 26884
15 Mirror Swivel Hardware (1 pr.) Rockler 31623
MATERIAL LIST
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 58
Small Shop Journal continued
Exploded
View
Mirror Frame Joinery
(Front View)
Leg Spline
Location
(Front View)
Stretcher Joinery
(Front View)
Mirror Leg Pattern
(Front View)
Full-size Mirror Hard-to-Find Hardware
Swivel Mirror Screws, Ant. Brass (1 pr.) #31623 ....... $15.39 pr.
Glass Retainer Clips, Ant. Bronze (1 pack) #26884 ... $5.39 pk.
1/4 Walnut Dowels, 36 Long (2) #20982 ................... $3.19 ea.
To purchase products online, visit www.woodworkersjournal.com
and click on the Store tab. Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1433).
1
10
2
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
6 7
7
8
8
9
9
11
11
12
12
13
14
15
14
14
14
Each square = 1"
Woodworkers Journal June 2014 59
Making the Two Leg Sets
With four long, narrow legs like these, making them perfectly
uniform not only prevents construction challenges but also
ensures that the leg shapes will look great: youd be surprised
how little the deviation on a curve needs to be before your eyes
can pick up the inconsistency! So, make a full-size leg template
from void-free plywood or MDF, following the gridded drawing
on page 58. Sand it carefully to fair the broad curves, and make
sure youre happy with its shape before you proceed.
Trace four leg shapes (pieces 5) onto your stock, laying out
their locations so the grain pattern on each pair of legs will
harmonize across the joint when you assemble the legs. In this
regard, its ideal if you can at least make each pair of legs from
the same piece of consistently grained wood; even better, make
all four legs from one board. Then cut the legs out slightly
oversize. If your stock allows for it, leave an inch or two of extra
material along the top narrow edges of the legs for now (see top
photo, this page). The excess material here will make handling
the legs safer while youre routing the spline slots in the next big
step. Fix the leg template to each leg with double-sided tape.
Template-rout the legs to shape up to, but stopping at, the (for
now) extra-wide top ends. Remove the template.
Set up a 1/4" straight or spiral bit in your router table to mill
a 1/2"-deep, 12"-long spline slot along the flat inside edge of each
leg. Start them 2" down from the top curved ends of the legs. Mark
the outer limits of your router bit on the router table so you know
where to start and stop these slot cuts accurately. Mill them in a
series of two or three deepening passes, flipping the workpieces
from one face to the other each time to center the slots. Once
the slots are done, square up their ends before trimming off
the remaining waste material from the top ends of the legs and
template-routing these final narrow areas to shape.
Now lay the leg pairs together with the slotted edges butted
up. Do these edge joints form flat, airtight seams? If they dont,
run the splined edges over your jointer for a pass or two to flatten
them completely. Next, plane a scrap piece of solid hardwood,
about 1/4"-thick by 2
1
2" wide and 16" long, down to fit snugly
in the spline slots. You want a good friction fit for these splines
(pieces 6). Rip and crosscut the two splines to size, and carry out
a dry fit of both leg pairs to be sure the joints close correctly. If
they do, glue up two sets of legs, clamping the narrow top ends
until the glue cures. In a couple of hours, scrape or sand the
splined joints flush and smooth.
Follow the locations on the Drawings to locate and install
six decorative dowels (pieces 7) near the top ends of each leg
assembly. Use a self-centering doweling jig to align these holes
evenly, and drill them with a sharp brad-point bit to avoid
tearout around the rims of the holes. Dab glue into the holes,
tap 1"-long dowels home and trim off the excess with a flush-
cutting saw or a multi-tool. Sand the dowel areas smooth.
Milling the leg spline slots is a drop-cutting process. Mark the edges
of your bit on the router table so you can locate these cuts accurately.
Leave extra waste stock at the narrow leg ends to make routing safer.
Spread glue into the spline slots and over the exposed areas of the
splines, then clamp the legs into pairs. Make sure these flat-edged
joints meet in tight seams for strength and best appearance.
Use a template to scribe bottom arches onto the rail workpieces. Leave
these workpieces overly long so you can drill them for clamp heads and
in order to trace the exact shapes and locations of the leg positions.
June 2014 Woodworkers Journal 60
Small Shop Journal continued
Machining the Arched Rails
The arched stand rails (pieces 8) that join the legs at the floor also
deserve consistent curves, so take the time to make a template
to establish the shape of these two curves. Then use it to help
lay out two overly wide and long blanks that will become the
rails. Notice that, in the bottom photo, previous page, there are
a couple of reasons for using oversized stock: first, it will allow
you to bore a pair of large holes below the curves of the rails to
make the final glue-up easier when installing the clamps. Plus,
the four angled ends of the two rails may not turn out to be
exact matches, depending on how the leg stock has reacted to
machining and assembly thus far: the legs might
have moved slightly, making the length of each
rail specific to its leg pair. The best way to
account for this is to lay each leg set on top of
its long rail blank and trace along the bottom
inside edges of the legs with a sharp pencil to
mark the ends of the rails accurately. Label
each rail and leg set to keep their pairing clear.
One of the distinctive and beautiful aspects of
this full-length mirror are the six through tenons
that join the sides of the mirror stand to the
bottom stretcher. Your rails are nearly ready to
cut out, but dont do it before milling the three
through mortises in each rail. Theyll be easiest to clamp in a
jig while still rectilinear and overly long.
The mortising jig (see Drawing above) I made for the task is
simple in design: its just a plywood blank with three, 1
1
2"-long,
3/4"-wide slots cut through it and spaced 7/8" apart (2
3
8" from
center to center). These slots will enable you to rout the actual
mortises in both the rails and the ends of the stretcher using a
3/4" O.D. rub collar and a 1/2" spiral or straight bit in a plunge
router. Trim the jig so the slots are exactly 3/4" from one edge:
this will position the rail mortises 7/8" down from the tops of the
rails. Screw a long, 1
1
4"-wide scrap fence to this edge of the jig: it
will register the top edges of the rail workpieces during routing
(see top photo, this page). One final note: youll also want the three
slot sizes of the jig to match perfectly. I made a second template
with just one slot, using a 3/4" straight bit, and that became a
master for flush-trimming the three jig slots to final, uniform
shape. Sometimes it takes a template to make a template!
Clamp the final template to each rail, and rout the three through
mortises in progressively deeper passes until the bit passes
through each rail. When thats done, cut and sand their angled
ends up to the pencilled layout lines, and glue and clamp the
rails between the legs. After the glue cures, drill and install the
12 long dowels (pieces 9) that reinforce these joints. Wrap up
the leg pairs by rounding over their long outer edges with a 1/4"
bit and the inside edges with a 1/8" bit. Bore a 5/16" through
hole, 1" down from the top, for each pivot bolt.
A slotted template with attached fence made it easy to clamp each rail
securely and rout the three through mortises accurately. This prevented
any mismatching mortises during final assembly of the stand.
Cut the ends of the rails roughly to shape, then carefully sand up to your
pencil lines. Glue and clamp the rails between the legs, let the glue dry
thoroughly, then drill and insert long dowels across these joints (inset).
By installing a long clamping board, the same rail-mortising template,
rub collar and router bit can do double-duty for routing matching
mortises in the ends of the stretcher (shown clamped in place here).
Mortising Jig
(Top View)
C
L
Threaded inserts are much easier to install if you first tap their insertion
holes for standard threads, then screw them in using a machine bolt
and doubled-up stop nuts. A little wax on the wood threads helps, too.
Woodworkers Journal June 2014
Assembling the Stand
Rip-cut the stands stretcher (piece 10) to width, and cut it to
length. Make sure to account for the overall width of your mirror
frame, plus the thickness of the threaded inserts that protrude
beyond the mirror frame for the pivot bolt hardware (see center
photo, this page). Then grab the rail mortising template again
and screw the end of a 3/4"-thick, 2-ft.-long scrap inside the
template, flush against its fence. This way, you can clamp the
template and the stretcher together in a vise vertically in order
to mill three mortises on each of the stretchers ends (see bottom
photo, previous page). The clamping board also centers the
mortises on the stretchers thickness. Rout them 1" deep. Use a
3/8"-radius bit to round over the long edges of the stretcher.
Your careful efforts at template mortising pay off now: if you set
the stretcher between the leg pairs, the rail and stretcher mortises
should line up exactly. If they do, youre ready to prepare some
long, solid stock to make the floating tenons (pieces 11) that
will fit those mortises. Surface it carefully so it will slide into
the mortises like a piston. Rip-cut the tenon material into three
sticks that are exactly 1
1
4" wide, and ease their long edges
with a 1/4" roundover bit in the router table. Then, round over
the six ends of these sticks with a file and sandpaper before
crosscutting the six 2"-long tenons to length.
Clamp the stretcher vertically to your workbench, and position
a legset on top of it. Spread glue into the deep mortises, and
insert the floating tenons. I used a bar clamp to push them all
into place. Repeat the process for the second legset. Finally, drill
three centered holes down through the tenons from the top edges
of each rail, and peg the rails and tenons together with glued
dowels (pieces 12) to complete the stand.
Finishing Up
Install two threaded inserts in the mirror frame,
centered on its length, then soften the back and
front edges of the frame with 1/4" roundovers.
Cut a back panel (piece 13) to size. Apply stain
and finish. When it dries, install the mirror and
back panel with glass retainers (pieces 14). Youll
need to shorten the pivot bolts (pieces 15) with a
hacksaw so the threaded portion is 1
1
2" long. Slip
the mirror frame into the stand, and thread in the
pivot bolts to complete the project. Now you can
check your daily wardrobe choice, and admire
your craftsmanship, for many years to come.
MOREONTHEWEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
For a video explaining the three-part finish
used on this mirror project, visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click on the
More on the Web tab shown above.
Assemble the leg sets and stretcher with six
floating tenons. They started out as three long
sticks (see inset), rounded over on their
edges and ends, then cut to length. Spread
glue in the mortises, and press them into place
with clamp pressure instead of hammer blows.
Install the mirror and back panel in the frame
recess, and secure them with glass retainers
and screws. Thread the pivot bolts through
the stand holes and into the inserts to mount
the mirror frame in the stand (inset).
Chris Marshall is Woodworkers Journals Senior Editor.
62
Five Fixes Used by Finishing Pros
By Michael Dresdner
A
mateurs and pros alike
can create high quality
finishes, but there are
some tricks of the trade more
common to professional shops.
Here are five useful ones to
make life easier for all of us.
are really small, sanded out).
Dents consist only of crushed,
unbroken wood fibers, and can
almost always be raised up
without sanding or filling.
Put a couple of drops of
water into the dent, and let
it soak in for a few seconds.
Add another drop or two, just
enough to fill the dent with
water. Take either a damp
cloth or a thin piece of
cardboard, place it over the
spot, and press the area with
a clothes iron set on high.
The water will seep into the
crushed fibers and the hot
iron will turn the water to
steam. As the steam expands,
it will push open the crushed
fibers and leave the surface
level. The damp cloth or thin
cardboard is simply to prevent
the iron from leaving scorch
marks on the wood.
Steam dents as soon as you
see them, before sanding the
Finishing Thoughts
Its never a mistake unless you cant fix it and when you do run into a finishing
problem, one of these fixes may just be what the doctor ordered.
Steaming Dents
During glue-up and handling,
youll often get dents or
gouges in the wood. Gouges
are areas where wood fibers
are torn or removed, and must
generally be filled (or, if they
Michael Dresdner
is a nationally known finishing
expert. He shares his expertise on
the DVD The Way to Woodwork:
Step-by-Step to a Perfect Finish,
available through the store at
woodworkersjournal.com.
A hot iron turns water droplets into
steam, which expands to open wood
fibers and level out a dent.
Does this putty look too light for this wood? Thats something you can fix as you go on. Most people err by starting
out with putty thats too dark. Pick one with your woods lightest color value or slightly lighter.
As you touch up a patch, your goal is to paint a picture of that particular
wood onto the putty. A fine, sharp-tipped brush provides control as you
paint in grain lines, moving from dark to light.
63 Woodworkers Journal June 2014
area. If you are not sure
whether its a dent or a gouge,
try steaming it first. You wont
do any harm, and you may
make the gouge smaller. Once
youre sure its a gouge, reach
for the putty, but first read the
next section.
Hiding Putty
The key to hiding putty starts
with choosing the right color.
Ill tell you upfront that almost
everyone goes too dark. Look
at the wood carefully and find
the very lightest color value in
it. Match your putty to that, or
go a shade or two lighter, but
never darker. When the putty
is dry, sand it level so that the
original outline of the gouge is
visible. Dont worry; I know it
looks far too light now, but
were going to fix that.
Planning to stain the wood?
First, test the dried, sanded
putty with the stain you intend
to use to see how it absorbs
color. Some putties absorb more
stain than the surrounding
wood, and some less. Put
some putty on a scrap of the
same wood, sand it, stain it,
then adjust your putty color
before using it on the real
project. It should match the
lightest value of the wood
after staining.
After the first sealer coat of
finish, pull out your touchup
Contact us
with your finishing questions by
writing to Woodworkers Journal,
4365 Willow Drive,
Medina, MN 55340,
or by emailing us at:
finishing@woodworkersjournal.com.
Please include your address,
phone number and email
address (if you have one)
with your thoughts or questions.
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64 June 2014 Woodworkers Journal
kit and blend the putty patch
to the surrounding area. Need
some help with that? Read on.
Touchup to Fool Them All
Its easy to touch up darker,
but almost impossible to touch
up lighter, since that will leave
an opaque shadow. Since
we chose our putty wisely, we
have a spot that only needs to
go darker.
I use dry pigment powders
in a wide range of colors, and
mix them with dewaxed
shellac using a piece of glass
or mirror as my mixing board.
Very fine #1 or #0 round, red
sable brushes that end in a
sharp tip provide both springy
fibers and a controllable point,
allowing me to create fine
grain lines.
The goal is to paint a picture
of that particular wood onto the
putty patch. Start by painting
in the largest, darkest grain
lines, then move on to the
finer ones, remixing colors on
the glass palette as needed.
Often the grain lines alone
will hide the spot. If you need
to darken the background,
apply a thin, semitransparent
wash, made by mixing only
a tiny amount of color into
the shellac.
Custom Color Stain
While you can mix several
stains together to make a
custom color, not everyone
wants to keep a shelf full of
basic colors on hand. Besides,
were not all adept at mixing
colors by sight. Heres a
quick trick for easy custom
color stain.
At your local paint or home
store youll see a wall of color
chips covering every hue
imaginable. Choose the color
you want the stain to be, and
have the clerk make up a
sample jar in latex paint.
Most companies now offer
four-ounce sample jars, but
if you need a lot of stain, buy
a quart.
Thin the paint with an
equal amount of water
more for a weaker color and
less for a stronger one
and wipe it on and off as you
normally do with stain. The
resulting water-based stain
is compatible under all the
common finishes we use.
Layers Banish Blotch
Stain once, whether with dye
or pigment, and the wood
grabs the stain where it
chooses, sometimes absorbing
too much in certain areas and
leading to a blotchy look.
Adding a second (or even
third) layer of pigmented stain
a day later can help even out
the color and hide the blotch.
When applying a pigment
stain over dye for the purpose
of making it more uniform,
its a good idea to seal the
dyed wood first. Use a very
thin application of Zinsser
SealCoat
or dewaxed
shellac, reduced to a watery
consistency. That step is not
necessary if your first color
application was a pigment
stain, since pigment stains
partially seal the wood all
by themselves.
To avoid going too dark,
make all the stains lighter so
they add up to the final color
you want. After the first
staining, you can adjust the
color of the second stain to get
exactly the right tone. Creep
up on the final color; the more
coats of color you divide your
staining operation into, the
more uniform it will look.
There you have it. They say
knowledge is power; hopefully,
you now have the power to
be a more efficient and more
confident finisher.
Finishing Thoughts continued
Latex paint is your secret start to a custom color stain. Thin it with water
to your desired shade, then wipe it on and off.
Creep up on the color you
want by adding several thin,
light colors of stain over a
few days. The more coats
you apply, the more uniform
your color will be.
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New Digital Hearing Aid
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Dr. Cherukuri knew that many of his
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