RM Final

A
Research Report
On
Fit Issues in Denim Jeans

Research Methodology

Submitted By:
Ishita Singh
Parul Tank
Richa Jain
Shakti Sonker
DFT -VIII

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Declaration

We, hereby declare that the research work entitled Fit Issues in Denim Jeans submitted to
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar is a record of an original work
done by us under the guidance of our faculty Mr. Bhaskar Banerjee and no part of the
project has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else.
However, any material taken from other published source has been suitably referred and
acknowledged at various places.
This research work is submitted in the partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of
the degree of Bachelor of Fashion Technology. The results embodied in this work have not
been submitted for any other degree or examination in this Institute or any other Institute.

Ishita Singh
Parul Tank
Richa Jain
Shakti Sonker
DFT VIII
Batch: 2010 2014
Place: Gandhinagar

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Abstract

Appearance of the person creates the first impression hence; we are usually particular about
what we wear. Denim with its ever growing versatility has become one of the most popular
fabrics for the people of all age groups. It has become a fashion statement for the young who
want to look stylish among their peer groups.
Good Fit is like taste, which is immediately recognizable, but is difficult to define and harder
to teach. Fit issues in the RTW market have a deep impact on the most people. Therefore, it
seems necessary to put research into such issue, find the reasons and factors leading to these
issues.
Generally price is the most important driving factor while purchasing apparels. However,
when consumers were asked to name the most important feature for their next denim jeans
purchase fit came to be the most important factor for purchasing a denim jeans.
The research design is descriptive in which qualitative study is being used. This research is
designed to find out how people feel about fit being the primary concern in denim; therefore
the research will give us qualitative results.
The Indian cities are the major consumer of the denim products. The total consumption of
denim trousers in the 15 major cities is estimated at 21.46 million pieces and constitutes
about 62.95 percent of the total denim jeans consumption of the cities.According to the
demand pattern of all the age groups , about 49% of the denim jeans market share is of the
youth belonging to the age group of 15-24 years. Following them are the people of the age
group 25-39 years constituting 27.79% of the market share.
Over the past few years Indian ready to wear industry has progresses a lot but the most
serious problem it is facing is regarding the sizing. While most of the countries are
continuously changing their sizing charts through detailed studies and surveys over the past
few years, it is hard to believe that India does not even have a sizing and measurement system
up till now.The problem of fit issues is not limited to India only because of not having a
standard sizing system. Even developed nations are also facing problem in this area.
Variance in fit can also be due to improper grading. Proper grading depends on the
knowledge of the pattern master and grading master and his or her experience. Many a times
to cut cost manufacturers try to fit maximum customers with the minimum number of
standard sizes. This adds up to the issues with consumer fit.

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Acknowledgement

Apart from the researchers efforts, the success of any project depends largely on the
encouragement and guidelines of many others. We take this opportunity to express our
gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this
project. First and foremost we would like to thank Mr. Bhaskar Banerjee, our faculty guide
who more than a guide was a mentor to us, guiding, motivating, encouraging and supporting
us all through the project. His prompt reply to our queries and valuable suggestions
contributed tremendously to our project.

We also thank our institute, National Institute of Fashion Technology, for providing us the
opportunity to work for such a significant duration of time which helped us to gain the
practical understanding by implementing our classroom knowledge. We also express our
gratitude towards other faculty members of NIFT, Gandhinagar for encouraging us and
giving us valuable advices.

We are grateful to our course coordinator Ms. Vasundhra Choudhary for providing us a
good learning environment thereby facilitating our project. We thank our head librarian Mr.
Sanjeev Kumar without whose support and help it would be impossible to carry out our
project.
Above all, the moral and financial support of our families was the most instrumental in
achievement a satisfactory level in this project. The guidance and support received from all
the members- higher authorities and friends who contributed to this project, was vital for the
success of the project. We are grateful for their constant support and help.
Thank You.

Ishita Singh
Parul Tank
Richa Jain
Shakti Sonker

Semester- VIII
Bachelor of Fashion Technology (2010-2014),
National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
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Table of Contents

Declaration ...................................................................................................................................... 1
Abstract ........................................................................................................................................... 2
Acknowledgement ........................................................................................................................... 3
List of Tables ................................................................................................................................... 7
Chapter One: Introduction & Background ................................................................................. 9
1.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 10
1.2 Problem Statement ................................................................................................................. 10
1.3 Purpose of Study .................................................................................................................... 10
1.4 Justification and Significance ................................................................................................. 11
1.5 Research Objectives ............................................................................................................... 11
1.6 Hypothesis ............................................................................................................................. 11
1.7 Research Design .................................................................................................................... 12
Chapter Two: Literature Review .................................................................................................. 13
2.1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................... 14
2.2 Apparel Industry .................................................................................................................... 14
2.3 Denim .................................................................................................................................... 14
2.3.1 History of Denim Jeans ................................................................................................... 15
2.3.2 The difference between Denim and Jeans Fabric ............................................................. 16
2.4 Denim Market Profile ............................................................................................................ 16
2.4.1 Demand of Jeans in major cities of India ......................................................................... 17
Table2.1: Trends in Rural-Urban Demand of Denim Jeans ........................................................ 19
2.4.2 Denim Popularity in Indian youth .................................................................................... 19
2.4.3 Denim Jeans Demand by age groups and gender.............................................................. 20
2.5 Denim Issues ......................................................................................................................... 21
2.5.1 Fit Issues in Denim Jeans ................................................................................................ 22
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2.6 Anthropometry ...................................................................................................................... 23
2.6.1 Indian Anthropometry ..................................................................................................... 23
2.7 Sizing System ........................................................................................................................ 23
2.7.1 History of Sizing System ................................................................................................. 23
2.7.2 Indian sizing system ........................................................................................................ 24
2.7.3 Need of sizing system in India ......................................................................................... 25
2.7.4 Fitting Issue and Garment sizing system in India ............................................................. 26
2.7.5 Fit issues in Ready to Wear ............................................................................................. 27
2.7.6 Body Shapes of Women .................................................................................................. 28
2.7.8 Fit Models, Pattern Making, and Grading ........................................................................ 29
2.8 Technological Intervention for Sizing .................................................................................... 29
2.9 Conclusion............................................................................................................................. 30
Chapter Three: Research Design & Methodology ....................................................................... 32
3.1 Research Design .................................................................................................................... 33
3.1.1 Research tools ................................................................................................................. 33
3.1.2 Contact Method............................................................................................................... 33
3.1.3 Sampling Technique........................................................................................................ 33
3.1.4 Sampling Calculation ...................................................................................................... 33
3.2Research Methodology ........................................................................................................... 34
3.2.1 Sample Population Profile ............................................................................................... 34
3.2.2 Target Population ............................................................................................................ 34
3.2.3 Data Collection Procedure ............................................................................................... 35
3.2.4 Data Collection Instrument .............................................................................................. 35
3.2.5 Sections of the Questionnaire .......................................................................................... 35
3.2.6 Pilot Testing .................................................................................................................... 36
3.7 Data Analysis Instrument ....................................................................................................... 38
3.8 Form of Result ....................................................................................................................... 39
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3.9 Budget ................................................................................................................................... 39
3.10 Schedule .............................................................................................................................. 39
Chapter Four: Data Analysis ........................................................................................................ 40
4.1 Hypothesis Testing ................................................................................................................ 41
4.1.1 Method of Hypothesis Testing ......................................................................................... 41
4.1.2 Calculation ...................................................................................................................... 41
4.2 Primary Survey ...................................................................................................................... 43
4.3 Results of the Primary Survey ................................................................................................ 44
4.4 Conclusion............................................................................................................................. 58
Chapter Five: Conclusions ............................................................................................................ 59
5.1 Summary ............................................................................................................................... 60
5.2 Limitation .............................................................................................................................. 60
5.3 Future Scope .......................................................................................................................... 61
5.4 Findings ................................................................................................................................. 62
Bibliography .................................................................................................................................. 63
Graduation Projects ..................................................................................................................... 64
Books .......................................................................................................................................... 64
Articles ........................................................................................................................................ 65
Appendices..................................................................................................................................... 66
A1: Format of Questionnaire ....................................................................................................... 67
A2: z table ................................................................................................................................... 70

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List of Tables
Table2.1: Trends in Rural-Urban Demand of Denim Jeans .................................................. 19

List of Figures & Graphs
Figure 1: Percentage of sample satisfied with the denim fit ............................................................. 12
Figure 2: Consumption of Jeans in major cities of India .................................................................... 18
Figure 3: Age group wise consumption of jeans ............................................................................... 20
Figure 4: Consumption share of jeans by gender & age group .......................................................... 20
Figure 5: Important features considered while purchasing a jeans ................................................... 21
Figure 6: Different body shapes of Women ...................................................................................... 28
Figure 7: Analysis of aspects considered by people while purchasing a pair of jeans ........................ 36
Figure 8: Importance of fit of the jeans for people ........................................................................... 37
Figure 9: Factors other than fit affecting the purchase behaviour of consumers .............................. 37
Figure 10: Percentage of people satisfied with the fit of denim jeans............................................... 38
Figure 11: Two tailed test of Proportion showing the significance level............................................ 42
Figure 12: Two tailed hypothesis testing .......................................................................................... 43
Figure 13: Survey Results: Percentage of people preferring jeans .................................................... 44
Figure 14: Survey Results: Different purpose for which people wear jeans ....................................... 44
Figure 15: Survey Results: frequency of purchasing jeans ................................................................ 45
Figure 16: Survey Results: Places from where prefer buying jeans ................................................... 45
Figure 17: Survey Results: Favourite brand for jeans ........................................................................ 46
Figure 18: Survey Results: Average money spent for purchasing jeans ............................................. 46
Figure 19: Survey Results: People considering Brand name as preference for buying ....................... 47
Figure 20: Survey Results: People considering Price as preference for buying .................................. 47
Figure 21: Survey Results: People considering Fit as preference for buying ...................................... 48
Figure 22: Survey Results: People considering Comfort as preference for buying ............................. 48
Figure 23: Survey Results: People considering fabric quality as preference for buying ...................... 49
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Figure 24: Survey Results: People considering Durability as preference for buying ........................... 49
Figure 25: Survey Results: People considering Style/ Design as preference for buying...................... 50
Figure 26: Survey Results: People considering Wash effect/ Finish as preference for buying ............ 50
Figure 27: Survey Results: People considering Colour as preference for buying................................ 51
Figure 28: Survey Results: People considering Promotional offers as preference for buying ............. 51
Figure 29: Survey Results: Importance of fit over other aspects for purchasing jeans ....................... 52
Figure 30: Survey Results: Style as a preference over fit for buying jeans ......................................... 52
Figure 31: Survey Results: Price as a preference over fit for buying jeans ......................................... 53
Figure 32: Survey Results: Wash effect/ finish as a preference over fit for buying jeans ................... 53
Figure 33: Survey Results: style as a preference over fit for buying jeans ......................................... 54
Figure 34: Survey Results: Comfort as a preference over fit for buying jeans.................................... 54
Figure 35: Survey Results: Brand as a preference over fit for buying jeans ....................................... 54
Figure 36: Survey Results: Percentage of people satisfies with the fit of their present jeans ............ 55
Figure 37: Survey Results: Areas of dissatisfaction in the fit of jeans ................................................ 55
Figure 38: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at waist ........................................................... 56
Figure 39: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at hip .............................................................. 56
Figure 40: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at thigh ........................................................... 57
Figure 41: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at leg ............................................................... 57
Figure 42: Survey Results: Percentage of people facing fit issues in jeans at leg ............................... 57
Figure 43: Survey Results: Percentage of people facing fit issues in jeans at hip ............................... 58

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Chapter One: Introduction &
Background

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1.1 Introduction
Appearance of the person creates the first impression hence; we are usually particular about
what we wear. Denim with its ever growing versatility has become one of the most popular
fabrics for the people of all age groups. It has become a fashion statement for the young who
want to look stylish among their peer groups
Good Fit is immediately recognizable, but is difficult to define and harder to teach. Fit issues
in the RTW market have a deep impact on the most people. Therefore, it seems necessary to
put research into such issue, find the reasons and factors leading to these issues and develop a
plan for solution.
Generally price is the most important driving factor while purchasing apparels. However,
denim jeans differ from other apparel product categories and showed a different response.
Price is not the key factor for most customers. When consumers were asked to name the most
important feature for their next denim jeans purchase fit came to be the most important factor
for purchasing a denim jeans.
1.2 Problem Statement
According to anthropometry, human body is classified into various shapes based on hip
types, leg types and thigh/abdomen relationships. India being a second most populated
country has large variation regarding anthropometry and body sizing. Different players in
denim have come up with range of fit solutions to cater to consumer demand but still one has
to struggle a lot in order to find the perfect fit jeans for oneself. In denim, fit being the
primary concern the customer does not want to compromise on it after paying a good amount.
1.3 Purpose of Study
The proposed research aims to result in providing insight and understanding to a common
problem of fit issues in denim jeans amongst male and female consumers, while also seeking
a reason of this problem based on this understanding. This research study aim to understand
the fit related problems in jeans segment for Indias youth aged (18-25) and to identify the
key issue/issues where the problem does exist and to establish that there is a need of research
in this area and also the discrepancies in the measurement of Branded Jeans.
Through the research, an explanation of the background of denim market, Indian standard
sizing system as we know it and where are the loopholes which lead to these issues. This
brief history is followed by overviews of the current body shapes of men and women.

Consumer fit issues and the usage of fit models and grading will also have coverage. A
survey will be conducted on the consumer end of the problem statement to gain an
understanding of feelings towards fit issues and concern for the purchase of jeans with better
fit. Ultimately, the research will conclude with providing an explanation as to why people
face fit issues in jeans and where do they face the problem.
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1.4 Justification and Significance
As we know, fit issues in the RTW market have a deep impact on the most people. Therefore,
it seems necessary to put research into such issue, find the reasons and factors leading to
these issues and develop a plan for solution. A research report by Mintel in 2008 found that
seventy percent of participants stated it is very difficult to find a proper fitting pair of
denim, and that forty-five percent expressed concern about sizing variance. This finding is
applied to all adult age ranges for men and women.

Exploring these issues will provide contribution to studies in apparel merchandising as well
as apparel design. The apparel manufacturers will find solutions to marketing a better product
to consumers, while the production and design end of apparel will discover a better
manufacturing practice for jeans with better fit and comfort to meet the consumers
requirements. Consumers can also learn that a solution exists to eliminate fit issues, and no
anxiety need be felt towards it.
1.5 Research Objectives
1.5.1 Primary Objective
To find out fit issues in denim jeans so as to cater to the growing needs of the customers
regarding fit.
1.5.2 Secondary Objectives
1. To study the denim market in India.
2. To understand the consumer buying behaviour regarding jeans.
3. To find the importance of fit to customers while purchasing a pair of jeans through
surveys.
4. To study the importance of sizing system in resolving fit issues.

1.6 Hypothesis
Null Hypothesis: H
0
= 0.60 (On an average majority of people do not face fit issues in jeans.)
Alternative Hypothesis: H
1
0.60

(On an average majority of people face fit issues in jeans.)
The hypothesis above defined has been derived taking into consideration the pilot run testing
done on sample size of 30 and secondary research. According to the pilot run 63% people are
satisfied with fits available and 37% are not satisfied with fit and face fit issues. As per a
research report by Mintel in 2008 found that seventy percent of participants stated it is very
difficult to find a proper fitting pair of denim, and that forty-five percent expressed concern
about sizing variance. This finding is applied to all adult age ranges for men and women.

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Figure 1: Percentage of sample satisfied with the denim fit
1.7 Research Design
The research design is descriptive in which qualitative study is being used. As defined in
Research Methodology by C R Kothari Descriptive research includes surveys and fact-
finding enquiries of different kinds. The major purpose of descriptive research is description
of the state of affairs as it exists at present. Qualitative research, on the other hand, is
concerned with qualitative phenomenon, i.e., phenomena relating to or involving quality or
kind.

This research is descriptive as we will only report about the denim fit issues faced by the
customers in currently available brands. In this research we will collect data on the common
fit issues faced, buying preferences of customers, buying frequency of denim etc. Through
this research we will investigate the impact of fit issues in denim on consumer purchase
behaviour. This research is designed to find out how people feel about fit being the primary
concern in denim; therefore the research will give us qualitative results.
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Chapter Two: Literature Review
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2.1 Introduction
Good Fit is like taste, which is immediately recognizable, but is difficult to define and harder
to teach. Well Fitted Garments can be defined as those that are comfortable to wear, allow
sufficient ease for Freedom and Movement are consistent with current fashion and that are
free of undesirable wrinkles sags or bulges.

Good Fit is characterized by a garment that the shape of the body with no indication of stress
or wrinkling, the curve at the hips and waistline following the natural contours of the body
without either binding or gapping.
2.2 Apparel Industry
The Indian Apparel Industry has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of the
country. It is one of the earliest industries to come into existence in the country. The sector
has a unique position as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the
delivery of end products, with considerable value-addition at every stage of processing. Apart
from providing one of the basic necessities of life, the apparel industry also plays a pivotal
role through its contribution to industrial output, employment generation, and the export
earnings of the country. Currently, it contributes about 14 percent to industrial production, 4
percent to the GDP, and 17 percent to the countrys export earnings. It provides direct
employment to over 35 million people. The Indian apparel industry is estimated to be worth
Rs. 3,270 billion in 2011-12 and is expected to grow at a compounded annual growth rate of
8.7 per cent till 2016. The growth would primarily be driven by the surge in demand for
readymade apparels in semi-urban areas, rising income levels and youth population and
increasing preference for branded apparel.
2.3 Denim
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. This twill weaving produces the diagonal ribbing of the denim that distinguishes it
from cotton duck.

Denim fabric is unique in its connection with one colour - blue. The warp yarn is traditionally
dyed with the blue pigment obtained from indigo dye. Indigo was the most significant natural
dye known to mankind until the introduction of synthetic dyes, at the end of the 19th century.
The durability of indigo as a colour and it's darkness of tone made it a good choice, when
frequent washing was not possible. In 1894, indigo was no longer needed a synthetic dye
process was perfected.

Denim fabric is constructed in twill weave by interlacing warp and weft filling yarns in a
progressive alternation. This creates a diagonal effect on the face or right side of the fabric. In
some twill weave fabrics, diagonal effect is visible on the back side of the fabric too. Denim
has right hand twill weave construction due to which one colour predominates on the fabric
face. The way of weave in denim and the threads used to make the fabric, make denim very
strong and durable. Over the years, to enhance the usability and durability of the denim,
different treatments have been introduced which includes stone wash, sand blasting, acid
wash, resin wash etc.

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Denim is one of the most versatile material and fashion trends which have not faded ever
since it came on fashion canvas. The fashion world has conceptualised denim in all possible
forms, be it a pair of skinny jeans, a mini skirt, a denim blazer or a denim Capri. Denim cloth
is used as, both formal and casual dressing which is the reason that the worlds renowned
designers are mostly of denim jeans, skirts, jackets, shirts, carpenter pants and even under
garments. The number of denim factories is increasing day by day. This increase is not only
giving life to fashion but also providing huge employment opportunities.
2.3.1 History of Denim Jeans
The word Jeans come from the French phrase bleu de Genes meaning the blue of Genoa.
The denim fabric originated in the French town of Nimes and owes its name to the location,
which was quickly known as denim abroad.

In 1817, the U.S. Navy introduced the bell-bottomed trouser and permitted its men to roll
their pants above the knee when washing down the decks. In 1901, use of denim jumpers and
trousers was firstly regulated and in 1913, officers were permitted to wear dungarees.
Jacob Davis, a Nevada tailor, designed denim jeans with copper rivets at the pocket corners
to prevent seam tears. Unfortunately, Davis didn't have the money to apply for a patent to
trademark his invention.
Denim jeans have evolved since the California Gold Rush Era of the 1850s. This was when in
1853; Levi Strauss started the wholesale business of supplying a strong style of workers pants
with rivets for the California Gold rush coal miners. On May 20, 1873, Levis Strauss and
Davis received a patent for the invention of ingenious pocket-rivet idea. Strauss and Davis
began producing copper riveted "waist overalls" in blue denim fabric.
Originally it was made from uncomfortable hemp but Strauss eventually discovered and
started using twilled cotton cloth that is denim. Initially denim jeans were adopted for
utilitarian purposes associated with physical labour and worn predominantly by ranch hand
and farmers. During the Second World War, durable work clothes were needed and denim
jeans were declared essential commodities.
In the late 1940s, denim jeans came to be associated with the youth and became a fashion
commodity. By 1950s, jeans became the symbol of teenage rebellion influenced by
television programmes and movies. In late 1970s, denim jeans took a remarkable turn with
the emergence of designer brands including Sergio Valente (1975), Calvin Klein Jeans (1978)
and Gloria Vanderbilt (1979). Jeans were no longer classified as low price fashion products
and it became status symbols. In 1990s, wide leg jeans for men and low rise hip hugger jeans
for women became popular in the youth market.
Today in the early 21
st
century, the meaning of denim jeans has once again taken on another
new dimension. Many new brands are being positioned and targeted in the premium category.
According to the study reported by Cotton Incorporateds Retail Monitor (2009) on teens
and denim, In the third quarter of 2009 denim jeans accounted for 15% of teen apparel
purchases, up from 12% in third quarter of 2008.

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2.3.2 The difference between Denim and Jeans Fabric
Denim fabric is both durable and comfortable, hence was meant especially for work clothes.
It was used for making overalls for mechanics and painters. Jean fabric is a sturdy fabric but
it is not as durable and comfortable as denim fabric. It is mainly used for topcoats, vests,
short jackets, trousers in chestnut, olive, black, white and blue jean.
In 1817, the U.S. Navy introduced the bell-bottomed trouser and permitted its men to roll
their pants above the knee when washing down the decks. In 1901, use of denim jumpers and
trousers was firstly regulated and in 1913, officers were permitted to wear dungarees.
Jacob Davis, a Nevada tailor, designed denim jeans with copper rivets at the pocket corners
to prevent seam tears. Unfortunately, Davis didn't have the money to apply for a patent to
trademark his invention.
Levi Strauss, Bavarian-born businessman had started a wholesale business in 1853 in
California, supplying clothing to gold rush miners. On May 20, 1873, Levi Strauss and Davis
received a patent for the invention which included the ingenious pocket-rivet idea. Strauss
and Davis began producing copper riveted "waist overalls" in blue denim fabric.
In 1936, Levi Strauss sews a little red flag next to the back pocket of its jeans. It is the first
label sewn on the outside of a piece of clothing. Denim became popular with young people in
the 1950's as a symbol of teenage rebellion, notably in movies such as Rebel without a Cause
and The Wild One. Some schools in the U.S. banned students from wearing denim fabric.
Until 1960, "waist overalls" was the traditional term used for denim pants. By the late 1950s,
however, teenage wearers were calling them jeans, so Levi Strauss officially began using the
name, too.
Denim has made a comeback in recent years and in every possible form. Studded denim
jackets, jeans, long skirts, pleated minis and even shirts were heavily featured on the runways
of Dolce and Gabbana, John Galliano, Mui Mui and Prada to name but a few.
2.4 Denim Market Profile
The denim jeans market being a part of apparel retail sector is gaining growth as a result of
developments in the retail industry. Denim jeans market saw a rapid growth in second half of
nineties in India.
The acceptance of denim in India has grown tremendously over the years. While metros have
been the key driver of growth in the initial phase for most denim wear brands in the country,
the largest growth is now expected to come from a more deep penetration of denim in India.
The denim market in India was pegged at USD 1.2 Bn in 2011. This is projected to grow at
the CAGR of 15-18% and has the potential of almost doubling its size by 2015. In terms of
volumes the denim market is estimated at ~ 300 Mn pairs of jeans which are projected to
grow to 550 600 Million pairs by 2015.
73% of Indias population is young with a median age of 26. Even after 10 years, the median
age will only get to 29 years. The target population of Denim wear has been 14 to 39 years,
which will be the majority of the population in the next 10 years. This is one of the primary
reasons why most brands today, have a reasonably large portion of Denim in their offering to
the consumer. The current denim market is largely skewed towards mens segment which
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can be taken as about 80% of the total market. While the young girls have got addicted to
wearing denim, a large portion of women still prefer wearing Indian wear like salwar suits at
work and at leisure. Even with the above constraints, the womens jeans market has been
growing rapidly. The womens wear market is projected to grow faster here onwards and will
potentially account for about more than 25% of the total market by 2015. On the city wise
mix, currently the larger cities and the metros together contribute nearly 57% of the total
market.
The current market size of denim wear in India is largely skewed towards the Metros and
mini metros. Metros and mini metros with about 7% of population contribute to about 50% of
the market share in denim wear. The tier 2 and tier 3 cities - which again, constitute about 8%
of the population, contribute only a 16% of the market share in denim wear. The initial part
of the lower contribution as mentioned earlier, can also be attributed to the low presence of
these brands in the tier 2 and tier 3 cities.
However, today - most brands understand that the tier 2 and the tier 3 cities present a large
opportunity. Currently the real estate prices have sky rocketed in the larger cities, the tier 2
and tier 3 cities offer a low cost rental space to the brands and the brands have used these
synergies to their advantage to scale up business. In addition to the increased availability, the
key factors leading to higher demand - is the acceptance of the youth and the aspiration to
look up to date.
The current offering is either non- branded /some unorganized players on side and the large
known brands on the other side offering Denim jeans in the price range of Rs 3,000 and
above. The youth of the tier 2 and tier 3 cities do aspire to wear branded denim wear but
would probably be more interested in it - at a cost which is more affordable. While the
definition of this will need to establish on broader terms these would be branded denim
jeans with contemporary fits and wash at price range of less than Rs. 1,500.
2.4.1 Demand of Jeans in major cities of India
about 62.95 percent of the total denim jeans consumption of the cities.
The table below provides the consumption of all denim products in 15 major cities of the
country and total consumption in these 15 cities accounts for about 15 percent of the total
consumption. As regards to the share of these cities, they exceed more than a 35 percent of
the total urban consumption.
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Figure 2: Consumption of Jeans in major cities of India
Mumbai leads in the use of denim trousers followed by Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai. The
most remarkable change noticed in the last five years is that Mumbai has jumped up in the
ladder to No.1 position pushing Delhi to No.2 position. Kolkata also has shifted a place
downwards in the demand for denim jeans. Bangalore and Hyderabad have also exchanged
their positions; i.e. Bangalore taking over Hyderabad and so also the case with Lucknow and
Kanpur. The smaller cities like Indore, Chandigarh, Coimbatore and Guwahati have made
adequate dent in the consumption of denim trousers.
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Table2.1: Trends in Rural-Urban Demand of Denim Jeans

2.4.2 Denim Popularity in Indian youth
Denim with its ever growing versatility has become one of the most popular fabrics for the
people of all age groups. It has become a fashion statement for the young who want to look
stylish among their peer groups. Branded denims have become a means to show off ones
financial status .People wearing knock offs or purchasing from local retail outlets are not
considered fashionable. Today the scenario is such that one cannot find a youngster not
wearing denim. Just as smart phones and internet has become the basic needs of the youth,
denim has also become one. Denims are a unisex bottom wear today. The key factors
responsible for denim popularity among the Indian youth are increasing fashion
consciousness and disposable income.

Majorly denim is worn by the youth and in India youth accounts for the majority. Therefore,
the demand for denim industry is increasing day by day and in the near future will surely
become the most popular market for all the major players in the apparel sector.
A study done by images retail state that denim has become the culture of youth as 65% of the
Indias population is youth and there are approximately 50 crore people aged between 15-39
years ,approximately 80% branded denim wear are sold in India. Out of these branded
garments 75 % is contributed by mans garments followed by women and kids, 15% and 10%
respectively.
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Figure 3: Age group wise consumption of jeans
2.4.3 Denim Jeans Demand by age groups and gender
The average age of the population of India is 26 years represented as a youth profile of India.
Due to globalization, there has been a shift to urban areas from rural areas which has
increased the popularity of western clothes.
If one looks into the demand pattern of all the age groups , about 49% of the denim jeans
market share is of the youth belonging to the age group of 15-24 years. Following them are
the people of the age group 25-39 years constituting 27.79% of the market share. Denim is
gaining popularity among the generation below the 14 years and that above 40 years. Its
demand reduces among the people below 60 years of age.

Figure 4: Consumption share of jeans by gender & age group
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India is a diverse country and so is the Indian population .Therefore one can notice a
remarkable change in body shapes and sizes as one travels form one state to another. For
instance, people in the northern states of Haryana and Punjab are different in body structure
from those in the north-eastern states.
Many anthropometric studies have been carried out in India, from an anthropological
perspective or for ergonomic applications. Across 6 geographical zones Chakravorty (1999)
presented anthropometric data for 761 Indian males.
India, to be used as a guide for industrial design of equipment and workplaces. An important
compilation of anthropometric data of Indians in comparison to western people with special
reference to Chhattisgarh district in central India was presented by Victor (2002).
2.5 Denim Issues
Consumers attitudes towards Denim jeans is reflected by appeal at retail stores. According
to the Lifestyle Monitor, 78% of consumers love wearing denim. Consumers reported
wearing denim jeans an average of four days a week, and of which 60% wear denim while
working.
The purchase of denim can be credited to the comfort and versatility of these cotton denim
jeans. Among consumers who had recently bought apparel, 45% had purchased denim jeans
(second only to knit shirts). Of those who said they planned to buy apparel in the coming
month, 40% said they planned to purchase jeans of which 62% would buy because they
needed them as they want to replace the old stock and 28% because they wanted something
new and different.

Figure 5: Important features considered while purchasing a jeans
Denim acceptance in India has grown remarkably over the years. In the initial growth phase,
denim brands in India grew tremendously in the metro cities. But it is expected that the denim
wear growth will be in the deeper penetrations of India i.e. in the small cities.

Page | 22

The denim market in India was pegged at USD 1.2 Bn in 2011. This is projected to grow at
the CAGR of 15-18% and has the potential of almost doubling its size by 2015. In terms of
volumes the denim market is estimated at ~ 300 Mn pairs of jeans which is projected to grow
to 550 600 Million pairs by 2015.

On the city wise mix, currently the larger cities and the metros together contribute nearly
57% of the total market. In almost all large cities in India Denim Jeans is growing popularity
as a casual/ leisure wear. The primary reason for the initial growth in the metros and large
cities can be bestowed to its easy availability in such cities. Most of the branded retail stores
were initially opened in the metros and the larger cities.
Another reason for its easy availability in these cities is the earlier phase of scalability which
too happened in the same cities. It has become a college wear and is also now being worn in
other non-formal occasion, semi formal occasions because of the acceptance among the
youth. Influencing advertisements of various brands endorsed by the famous celebrities have
been successful in increasing its aspiration of the customers. Premium brands denim jeans
have become the desire of the consumers.
The current market size of denim wear in India is largely skewed towards the Metros and
mini metros. Metros and mini metros with about 7% of population contribute to about 50% of
the market share in denim wear. The tier 2 and tier 3 cities - which again, constitute about 8%
of the population, contribute only a 16% of the market share in denim wear.
2.5.1 Fit Issues in Denim Jeans
Generally price is the most important driving factor while purchasing; overall, 84% of consumers
rated price as the most important factor to be considered while purchasing denims. However,
denim jeans differ from other apparel product categories and showed a different response.
Price is not the key factor for most customers. When consumers were asked to name the most
important feature for their next denim jeans purchase, only 16% named price; fit being the
most important (50%), followed by style (19%).Women were more likely to care most about
fit than men (55% vs. 41%).
Fit issues are being faced by women in the United States ready to wear (RTW) industry.
Market researchers have found that fifty percent of women in the U.S. find it hard to find
apparels that fit (Connell, 2006). Due to the diversity the population is made up of a variety
of body shapes (pear, apple, rectangle, inverted triangle, etc.) and figures but still the
manufacturers avoid this difference and use the mannequins of perfect hourglass proportion
for patternmaking and grading (Petrova, 2008). Such perfect Body shapes and sizes are not
seen in the human population. Instead of considering body shapes the patterns are graded on
the basis of the changes in measurements (Connell, 2006). The National Institute of
Standards and Technology (part of the U.S. Department of Commerce) updated product
standard PS 42-70 in 1970 .It made standards for apparel sizing voluntary for manufacturers,
which is one of the main factor to consumer fit issues. No standard grading rule or
measurement chart is being followed by the various brands for apparel. Because of which
consumers are finding themselves falling into multiple size categories .Each brand or
designer has its own measurements constituting each size.

This leads to confusion for customers, and freedom for manufacturers to utilize vanity sizing
practices. Brands use vanity sizing to target one shape and alter patterns to fit that niche and
focus on creating brand loyalty amongst consumers (Petrova, 2008). The market is not only
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overly saturated with brands but also there is so much inconsistencies among them. In such
an overcrowded marketplace, it is necessary that companies find a niche to stay afloat. The
niche for companies is variation in fit from competitors using vanity sizing and developing
their own unique size chart. In Mintels 2008 denim report, the list of denim manufacturers is
full of premium labels, boutique labels, moderately priced labels, old labels transforming
themselves, organic labels rising to fulfil the growing trends, and many others looking for
their target in the marketplace. More the number of brand options for the customer more the
sizing variation as a result of which the customer gets irritated.
2.6 Anthropometry
Anthropometrics can be defined as the study of science that deals with the body measurement
of human beings. The word was derived from the Greek anthro i.e. human and metreein
which is measure. Pheasant further explained this as applied anthropometrics which
included numerical Data focusing size, shape and other physical features of human beings
and can be used in the design context.

It is the science of measurement and the art of application that establishes the physical
geometry, mass properties, and strength capabilities of the human body. It involves the
systematic measurement of the physical properties of the human body, primarily dimensional
descriptors of body size and shape. It is very important to have the knowledge of body
dimensions for designers.Three important factors which are to be kept in mind while
specifying the dimensions of a design, which can cause variation in body size, are sex, age
and race or ethnicity.

2.6.1 Indian Anthropometry
Variation in human figure interests scientists over a period of time which led to evolution of
anthropometry a standard scientific technique which is used to measure human figure. India
has been classified on the basis of anthropometric data of various subcontinents. A lot of
studies are being done to apply this technique in various part of India.

Study of intra and inter-population variations in different morphological characters have long
been an interest of anthropologists. Human body dimensions vary on various factors like
ecological, biological, geographical, racial, gender and age. On these factors, anthropological
studies are conducted in various geographical zones.
2.7 Sizing System
2.7.1 History of Sizing System
During World War II, it was felt that body measurements are of great importance as the basis
for sizing clothing. It resulted in publication of data on the body measurements of thousands
of military personnel and the development of sizing of wearing apparel and personal
equipment for the armed force.
The credit of sizing becoming standardised can be bestowed on the detailed study of body
measurements in military in 1940s (Connell, 2006).The changing lifestyle and food habits
have changed the average body type but it does not affected the sizing.

Page | 24

From 1998 through 2001, Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) International collected
anthropometry data of civilian males and females aged 18-65 in a study named Civilian
American and European Surface Anthropometry Resource (CAESAR). After the initial
military study in the 1940s this resource was the first human body measurement of the
masses. All this data was firstly used for furniture design, automotive design, and many other
applications involving the human body, this data was also useful for apparel sizing. They
were also used for Following the CAESAR data collection, a company in Cary, North
Carolina, TC2, developed a study titled Size USA.
2.7.2 Indian sizing system
Over the past several years, as the ready-to-wear garment industry in India progressed from
fledgling into a robust sector, one common lament has been about sizing being a major
problem. While most countries have gone on to modernise and revise their sizing systems
based on inputs from sizing surveys during the last decade, India does not even have a
rudimentary system till date.

Anthropometric surveys have been conducted frequently in India for the last 30-40 years.
Some have been conducted by Home Science colleges and the results have been used for
pattern development exercises for various age groups. Many others have been conducted to
assess the nutritional status of population groups but unlike US studies, very little information
about the findings of such studies is available in the public domain. Besides, these surveys
were mostly restricted to small, local population sets.

A comprehensive all India survey was undertaken by Dr KS Singh for the Anthropological
Survey of India, from 1985 onwards, to study the effect of several parameters on growth
patterns of the various ethnic groups in India. However, the measurements taken for
anthropological studies are quite different from those required for the purpose of developing
size Graphs for garment manufacture and hence cannot be used for the purpose. Some small
studies have also been conducted by ergonomists to collect data for the purpose of design of
work places.

More recently, some major garment manufacturers retailing in India, commissioned
anthropometric studies before launching their respective brands in the domestic market.
These surveys were often conducted by marketing organizations which arguably had no
expertise in the area of anthropometry and thus the data obtained was often found to be
unreliable. Besides, the companies have held on to the results very closely perhaps as a trade
secret, and again no information is available about the results or the analysis conducted. Even
when the surveys were conducted as mentioned above, the analysis was restricted to
calculation of simple arithmetic means, percentages and percentiles.

Unfortunately India doesnt have its own anthropometric database hence we are bound to use
size Graphs from western countries. There are many reasons such as huge population,
different cultures and ethnicities, vast geography etc. are cited for not having indigenous size
Graphs. The apparels worn by Indians are designed as per the US or UK size Graphs,
however their body dimensions are not same as US or UK people. This is surprising that
India, where 1/6th of the world population habitats and is one of the fastest moving economy
as well as the emerging market; dont have own size Graphs for apparels which can solve the
fit related issues.

Page | 25

There are several reasons for this apathy on part of the ready-to-wear industry - some are
historical, others are cultural and yet others are economic in nature. Historically, Indians have
only used draped garments, where one size fitted all. The concept of garments stitched to
fit a body is therefore alien. Indians are also known to make do and be happy with what they
have. So we humbly accept the ill fitted, shapeless garments that are doled out to us by the
fancy brands at unbelievable prices.

Culturally, we have always aped the west and so it is with a lot of pride that we wear
garments that have the UK or US size labels on the inside - which dont mean a thing to us.
We are also best known for our jugad culture rather than a problem solving approach. So
copying sizes from international labels is the most obvious choice, the fact that the average
height of an American male is nearly 15 cms more than that of his Indian counterpart, not
with standing. Economics always clinches the issue for us and thus, the cost of investing in
research to find out the actual shape and sizes of the Indian population has proven to be an
insurmountable barrier. However, by far the biggest hurdle is posed by the nature and extent
of the problem itself.

Sizing for the Indian population is an issue that requires multifaceted inputs and is too
complex and too expensive for any one player to handle in isolation. By its very nature it
needs a consortia approach where academic institutions, technology providers, government
agencies and retailers come together on a platform and work out a comprehensive strategy for
sharing of responsibility, funds and findings. All countries which have undertaken this
exercise have roughly adopted this model. We need to overcome our petty interests and fears
and think long term in order to tackle this problem. As the biggest stake holders are the
retailers, so the onus to take the initiative too lies with them.
2.7.3 Need of sizing system in India
In Indian clothing market there are a number of brands available hence, there exist as many
sizes and sizing systems. Each brand work on different sizes, nomenclature and size intervals.
This leads customer to no way out other than trying on innumerable clothes in each brand.
Even in the same brand there is no consistency of sizes, for example, there is different sizing
system for top and lower body garments. A person who may wear a small (S) size shirt may
look for a large (L) size trouser. The same story continues when the person look for same
product in other brand and have to understand new sizing system. A shirt of small size (S) in
Brand A may fit a person well whereas in Brand B he get shirt of perfect fit in medium
size (M).
All this variation creates a lot of confusion in the mind of the customer because customer is
not aware of the perfect size which fits his body measurements. Often there is no relation
between the garment size and the body measurements.
As we are into times characterized by unprecedented retail growth, there is a need for having
a systematic, standard and scientific sizing system for garments to classify and measure
human bodies. Nowadays, masses are frequenting the malls for their requirements. People are
becoming aware of the fit or lack of it in various brands products. Fit has become one of the
major criteria to determine the purchase decision for clothing requirements and thus could
deeply affect the brand popularity in either way. Since mall culture is developing in India, it
is peak time for all manufacturers to look into this serious matter before people become more
sensitive to the issues of fit and change their purchase decision due to lack of it.
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As stated earlier, the reason why we in India, do not have even a primitive garment sizing
system in place is:
1. The traditional Indian garments comprised primarily of draped wear and whatever
little stitching was required could be catered to by the local tailor.
2. We had no organized retailing set ups.
3. We were not a fashion conscious or a fit conscious population.
Thus the need was never felt for a readymade garment sizing system in India. But with the
changing scenario, the clothing preferences of people are also changing. There is a shift in
clothing preferences from Indian to western wear which clearly defines acute need for a
sizing system in India.
The problem of fit issues is not limited to India only because of not having a standard sizing
system. Even developed nations are also facing problem in this area. There are number of
research studies and amount of literature in the area of sizing and fit in the last few years
throughout the world to justify the statement. There is no prestigious textile/ apparel
department or university in Europe or America which is not currently working in the area of
garment sizing and fit proves that fit issues are the premium concern for people not only in
India rather in every corner of this world.
2.7.4 Fitting Issue and Garment sizing system in India
Over the past few years Indian ready to wear industry has progresses a lot but the most
serious problem it is facing is regarding the sizing. While most of the countries are
continuously changing their sizing charts through detailed studies and surveys over the past
few years, it is hard to believe that India does not even have a sizing and measurement system
up till now.
There are several reasons for this apathy on part of the ready-to-wear industry - some are
historical, others are cultural and yet others are economic in nature. Historically, Indians have
been only using draped garments, where one size fits all. This concept of stitched garments
to fit a body is therefore not born in India and has been adopted from other countries.
Indians considered humble and satisfied and so they become in what they have. So, the
garments with fit issues and not fitting to ones body shapes are offered by the different
brands at exceptional prices and people buy them willing.
Culturally , Indians have always followed west and therefore we do not face problem in
wearing costly apparels with size labels of the countries of west .People consider it
unimportant as being on the inside of the garment. We are also best known for our jugad
culture rather than a problem solving approach. So copying sizes from international labels is
the most suitable option left. Not considering the fact that the average height of an Indian
male is nearly 15 cms less than that of his American counterpart. Financial Issues are always
faced in India. People find it useless to invest in such researches to find out the actual shape
and sizes of the Indian population. Financial constraint has proven to be a barrier for this
development. However, the complexity of the problem is in itself a major issue.
Sizing for the Indian population is a major issue .It is very difficult for a single player to
handle it alone as it requires a lot of different inputs and is too complex and expensive. The
nature of the problem requires a consortia approach where academic institutions, technology
Page | 27

providers, government agencies and retailers must come together on a platform and work out
a comprehensive strategy for sharing of responsibility, funds and findings. This same model
has been adopted by the countries that have been successful in this research. It is now high
time for us to overcome the fears and the problems and tackle these sizing issues and the
related issues by carrying out this research. As the biggest stake holders retailers need to take
the initiative for this study.

2.7.5 Fit issues in Ready to Wear
Ready to wear (RTW) garments are available for customers who dont get their garments
stitched by tailors or stitch themselves. Such garments are available in a variety of sizes
which are produced in bulk by apparel manufacturers. This term makes an overall attempt to
provide apparel fit to a vast majority of our population (Pisut, 2006). This system is being
followed since years but with many faults that are leading to poor fit for consumers. In early
20
th
century the standards came into picture and are now the basis for apparel sizing. For the
sizing to stay current it is always recommended to revise the size chart after every ten years
tenure (Brunn, 1983). For the current consumer population, the garment sizing system is
unreliable and inapplicable. It has been found that the present data on consumers
anthropometry is outdated, in fact, gave an estimated figure that eighty percent of current
RTW clothing does not properly fit those purchasing it.

Changing lifestyle, diet and diversification has resulted in drastic shift in body shapes from
the standard size chart assessment done in 1942. It has been figured out in the 520 3D body
scan done by Alexander that majority of the observation had hourglass body shape, forty-five
percent were pear shaped, while only thirty-three percent maintained the hourglass body
which is considered to be the standard for American women. Inspite of this patters are
developed on hourglass shape and the one not falling in this class have to face a lot of
problem in facing proper fit.

The reason for poor fit of RTW clothing are the changes in the landscape of body shapes but
there are other factors also which have contributed to the rejection of the current RTW sizing
system. It is very difficult to standardize the apparel and yet provide with a perfect fit since
sizing of the human body can never be identical. The bust, waist, and hip circumference
measurements are generally used to prepare a garment size, in most of the size chart which is
not sufficient to accurately measure the human. From these three measurements, patterns are
finished assuming the body size to be proportional to fill in the gap for other body
measurements necessary to create a whole garment. The present population, with variation in
body proportion and shape will not fit in the clothing produced in this system. The customers
are left dissatisfied finally getting their garment altered spending even more money than
originally intended.

Differences can be noticed among the apparel manufacturers own products. It has been
found that the reason for the wide range of variance is not following the standards. Three out
of five manufacturers do not follow these standards, while only one out of fifty do follow
standards. There is a great possibility that even if the garment is of same size and
manufactured by the same would have a variance as much as three inches. The study
concluded that order initiators do not follow to standard size charts, and garment
manufacturers are unable to produce garments that meet order initiator specifications.
Outdated standards which are inadequate leads to manufacturing of garments and hence
forced to create a sizing system of their own. Each order initiator takes liberty at choosing a
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model size to base all garments on, which may vary depending on age, occupation, origin, or
socio-economic group which they aim to serve.

The consumer gets frustrated and irritated due to varying size and proportion in cloths. To
eliminate this frustration national standard size must be created which would be followed by
all companies. It is found in a research that it is not possible for the industries to adopt these
changes.
2.7.6 Body Shapes of Women
The population comprises of women with different shapes and sizes and varying preferences.
Great effort are being taken to understand this diversity and come up with something which
help the manufacturers to manufacture clothes which satisfies the women population. It has
found that the U.S population has grown in recent days because of change in diet the
anthropometry of bodies have changed and this has caused the existing sizing chart not
appropriate for the present population. Below are the four most common body shapes.

Figure 6: Different body shapes of Women
The main objective of the study was to understand the body type of women and size and
finally coming up with single best fitting size regardless of price the kind if apparel or the
manufacturer. The standard sizing provides a guide for the manufacturer to develop an
appropriate fitting. As a result, sizing and fit have become two major selling tools used by the
manufacturers of womens apparel to create product differentiation and competitive
advantage in the industry. The product differentiation leads to difference in fit among brands,
when standards set forth by the government were meant to aid customers to identify the
garments that would provide them with the most reasonable fit. In one research study, size 8
prototypes were tested among 16 manufacturers industry wide. Among them, bust
dimensions varied by 3.5, waist dimensions by 3, and hip dimensions by 4. One dress
form company emerged with data that showed thousands of size 8 measurements from a
variety of clothing manufacturers.
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2.7.8 Fit Models, Pattern Making, and Grading
As earlier discussed, pear body shape covers the majority of women, while most clothing is
cut to specifications of the more traditional hour glass shape. This body shape is used for
creation of size charts which are based on fit models. Fit models are first chosen to make
apparel size charts and then accordingly grading is done. These fit models are used to
represent body dimensions which a company has determined will provide proportional
relationships required to get the perfect fit which will distinguish the company from its
competitors.

These fit models represent the similar target customer which helps the company produce the
correct fit and it varies from brand to brand. This was found in a study on the fit models with
measurements of bust 36, waist 24, and hip 34, height of 58 and weight of 115 pounds.
These different sizes were tried by models and it was found the lack of consistency and wide
range of difference in fit.

The best fit model is first selected and accordingly patterns are drafted and grading for each
garment is done according to the specification. According to the increase and decrease in the
garment measurements grading is done both up and down. Variance in fit can also be due to
improper grading. Proper grading depends on the knowledge of the pattern master and
grading master and his or her experience. Many a times to cut cost manufacturers try to fit
maximum customers with the minimum number of standard sizes. This adds up to the issues
with consumer fit. For example, if a consumer finds that the size 10 jeans are too tight but the
size 12 are too large; the only option is to have tailoring done to either pair, a cost on top of
the cost of the garment. In between size manufacturing can decrease the fit issue to some
small degree. 3D body scanning can be a solution to solve this issue both for consumers and
manufacturers.
2.8 Technological Intervention for Sizing
As explained above, sizing is the major concern for the apparel sector and its absence is
creating a lot of fit issues to the end consumers of apparels. A number of studies have been
done to solve this problem. A study was done in which three dimensional body scanning
technology (3DBS) was incorporated and measured 11,000 Americans in 12 locations across
the country. The most accurate and upto- date data on human anthropometry in the U.S was
developed. The Sizing survey implications and the customers fit issues led the researchers
conclude that the three-dimensional body scanning technology can create better fitting
garments for the American consumer.

The three dimensional body scanning technology has been incorporated by Companies such
as high end retailer of fine tailored garments Brooks Brothers and iconic denim brand Levis
in their product offerings. For the clients looking for customised fit Brooks Brothers offers
digital tailoring through 3D body scanners at its flagship store in Manhattan. Clients are
measured in just twelve seconds and can then create their own garment choosing their own
fabrics and prints. Levis used the body scanner and resolved the consumer fit issue in 2010
with its Curve ID, campaign.

The denim brand studied 60,000 3D body scans from around the world and customers were
consulted regarding problems of fit issues in denim. Fifty four percent of these women said
that they had to try on at least ten pairs of jeans before finding one that offered a somewhat
Page | 30

suitable fit. Research led the company to find that eighty percent of women around the
world could be put into three shape categories, and thus the company created the slight
curve, demi curve, and bold curve, fits, while using the slogan Its about shape,
not size.

Three dimensional body scanners are proving to be a reliable resource for research, as well as
a viable solution to consumer garment fit issues. The technology takes any measurement from
600,000 to 1,000,000 points of measurement of the human body. It occupies the same amount
of space as a regular dressing room of size 4 X 5.It translates to Computer Aided Design
(CAD) software, and costs around $40,000 per machine (Petrova, 2008).

Both companies and consumers agree that fit issues exist for US womens RTW, and the 3D
body scanning technology is proving itself to be one of the most useful technology for
creating suitable fit for an average customer. The only question which arises is regarding the
technology not being used adequately in the apparel sector, specifically in the womens
denim market. Using the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM), the cause of slow adoption
can be the consumer attitude towards the 3d body scanners. The TAM aims to explain
consumer behaviours and can be applied in this case towards consumer attitudes and beliefs
when adopting new technologies (Watchravesringkan, 2010).

The attitude of the customers needs to be changed towards three dimensional body scanning
only then this technology can be used to its fullest. This will help the manufacturers in sizing
in a better way. Conversely, if consumers have no motivation to use the product, it will be a
costly venture for the apparel manufacturers that will not result in profit, preventing
companies from making the technology widely available. The fit issues will not be eliminated
from the apparel industry. While the TAM will explore attitudes and beliefs towards body
scanning technology, it will also explain consumer buying behaviour such as motivation,
product involvement, and the purchase decision making process.

2.9 Conclusion

The apparel industry also plays a pivotal role through its contribution to industrial output,
employment generation, and the export earnings of the country. Currently, it contributes
about 14 percent to industrial production, 4 percent to the GDP, and 17 percent to the
countrys export earnings. It provides direct employment to over 35 million people. The
Indian apparel industry is estimated to be worth Rs. 3,270 billion in 2011-12 and is expected
to grow at a compounded annual growth rate of 8.7 per cent till 2016.

developments in the retail industry. The denim market in India was pegged at USD 1.2 Bn in
2011. This is projected to grow at the CAGR of 15-18% and has the potential of almost
doubling its size by 2015. In terms of volumes the denim market is estimated at ~ 300 Mn
pairs of jeans which are projected to grow to 550 600 Million pairs by 2015.

Page | 31

years ,approximately 80% branded denim wear are sold in India. Out of these branded
garments 75 % is contributed by mans garments followed by women and kids, 15% and 10%
respectively.
According to a study done on the different aspects considered by the customers while buying
denim jeans, only 16% named price; fit being the most important (50%), followed by style
(19%).Women were more likely to care most about fit than men (55% vs. 41%).
Fit issues are being faced by women in the United States ready to wear (RTW) industry.
Market researchers have found that fifty percent of women in the U.S. find it hard to find
apparels that fit (Connell, 2006).

Thus ,fit has become the main issue and needs to be tackled so as to provide customer
satisfaction . Various researches have been carried out but the problem still persists .
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Chapter Three: Research Design &
Methodology
Page | 33

3.1 Research Design
3.1.1 Research tools
Structured questionnaire will be used for the feedback of the customers. The questionnaire
will consist of multiple choice questions; close ended likert questions, closed ended rating
scale questions, buying propensity questions etc. Measurement charts will also be made in
order to avoid the discrepancies in the fit of the jeans on the basis of customers feedback.
3.1.2 Contact Method
The data collection will be assisted by contact methods like:
1. e-mails
2. personal conversations
3.1.3 Sampling Technique
A sample design is a definite plan for obtaining a sample from a given population. It refers to
the technique or the procedure the researcher would adopt in selecting items for the sample.
There are different types of sample designs based on two factors viz., the representation basis
i.e. Probability sampling or Non-probability sampling and the element selection technique i.e.
Unrestricted or Restricted.
The sampling technique used in this research is Non-probability Convenience sampling. As
per definition Non-probability sampling is that sampling procedure which does not afford
any basis for estimating the probability that each item in the population has of being included
in the sample. This technique is chosen because simple random sampling is not possible at
student level as we need the list of entire sample population for it.
3.1.4 Sampling Calculation
The size of the sample depends upon the precision the researcher desires in estimating the
population parameter at a particular confidence level. A larger sample is much more likely to
be representative of the population. Furthermore with a large sample the data are likely to be
more accurate and precise. It was pointed out that, the larger the sample, the smaller the
standard error.

Sample Size (n) = (Z
2
pq) / e
2

Z=

Confidence Level = 95%
e = Precision Level = 10%
p = Probability of success
q = Probability of failure

As per the pilot test done on a sample of 30 people, we found that 19 people do not have any
fit issues whereas 11 people face fit issues. According to the hypothesis, the probability of
success (p) will be 0.60 and probability of failure (q) will be 0.40.

p = Probability of success = 0.60
q = Probability of failure = 0.40

Page | 34

The confidence level taken to calculate the sample size is 95% and the precision level (e) is
10%. The value of Z at 95% confidence level is 1.96.

Z=

Confidence Level = 95% = 1.96
e = Precision Level = 10%

Therefore, Sample size = ((1.96)
2
x 0.60 x 0.40) / (0.1)
2
= 92.19
= 93
But, for population of more than one lakh, one must take a minimum sample size of 100.

Hence, the sample size for this research is 100.
3.2Research Methodology
3.2.1 Sample Population Profile
Youths (male and female) aged between 18-25 years residing in Gandhinagar. Participants
Personal detail like age, Occupation, Income etc. all data Collected from different Place of
Gandhinagar.

3.2.2 Target Population

About India Population (in
Crores)
India Population(as per 2011 census) 1,21,01,93,422

About Gujarat
Gujarat Population (as per 2011 census)
(4.9% of the total population of India)
6,04,39,692

About Gandhinagar
Gandhinagar population (as per 2011 census)
(2.2% of the population of Gujarat)
13,87,478
Population of the age Group 18-25 yrs (Target Population)
(8.9% of the population of Gandhinagar)
1,23,485
Page | 35

3.2.3 Data Collection Procedure
The data collection is the accumulation of specific evidence which enable us to properly
analyse the results of all activities by our research design and procedures. The main purpose
of data collection is to verify the research hypotheses. Observations and questionnaire
method was used for data collection which can be described as follows:

Secondary Data collection

1. Study of the documents which includes various journals, graduation projects,
magazines, articles and internet.
2. Study of anthropometry and sizing system from various books.

Primary Data Collection

1. Primary research was conducted with the help of non disguised structured
questionnaire method.
2. The survey was conducted in a period of 7 days.
3. Feedback was taken from 100 people.
3.2.4 Data Collection Instrument
The research studies in behavioural science or mainly concerned with the characteristics or
traits. Thus, tools are administered to quantify these characteristics. Quantification is the
process of assigning numerical values to the trait of the subjects of sample which normally
would be quantitative. This can be done by:
(a) Observations or information by firsthand experience.
(b) Systematic collection and analysis of factual data which is done in historical research.
(c) Scales and inventories are designed to explore or reveal the interests, attitude and
personality.
(d) Questionnaire, interview and opinionnaire are designed to gain information. This is
employed in survey research.
(e) Educational and psychological tools are administered to quantify the variables more
accurately.

The tool used in this research is structured questionnaire. There are various ways to quantify
the variable which is also known as levels of measurement or scales of measurement. We
have used nominal scale and ordinal scales in the questions.
3.2.5 Sections of the Questionnaire

A questionnaire consists of a number of questions printed or typed in a definite order on a
form or set of forms. The questionnaire is mailed to respondents who are expected to read
and understand the questions and write down the reply in the space meant for the purpose in
the questionnaire itself. The respondents have to answer the questions on their own.

Structured form of questionnaire was used for this research in which all questions and
answers are specified and comments in the respondents own words are held to the minimum.
Structured questionnaires are those questionnaires in which there are definite, concrete and
Page | 36

pre-determined questions. Questionnaire is majorly divided into four sections: General
questions, Research based questions, Control questions and personal details.

The first few questions are likely to influence the attitude of the respondent and in seeking his
desired cooperation. Following the opening questions there are questions which are vital to
the research problem and connect each other so as to get the desired the data from the survey.
There are certain control questions in the questionnaire to indicate the reliability of the
respondent.
3.2.6 Pilot Testing
When using a questionnaire, it is always advisable to conduct pilot study (Pilot Survey) for
testing the questionnaires. Pilot survey is the replica and rehearsal of the main survey. Such a
survey, being conducted by experts, brings to the light the weaknesses (if any) of the
questionnaires and also of the survey techniques. From the experience gained in this way,
improvement can be effected.
3.2.6.1 Interpretation of Pilot Run Questions

1. Aspects considered by people while purchasing a pair of jeans

Figure 7: Analysis of aspects considered by people while purchasing a pair of jeans
The results of pilot testing shows that fit is an extremely important factor which is looked at
by people while purchasing a pair of jeans. Aspects like comfort, fabric quality, durability are
in the queue of importance.

Page | 37

2. Importance of fit of jeans for people

Figure 8: Importance of fit of the jeans for people

3. Factors other than fit affecting the purchase behaviour of consumers

Figure 9: Factors other than fit affecting the purchase behaviour of consumers
Good fit is the most essential aspect of a garment. It is the main concern for every buyer. A
majority of people i.e. 56% feels fit is an important aspect to purchase a denim. There are
some people which are not bothered about fit of the jeans (7%) and some are not even
concerned about the fit of the jeans.
Other than fit there are some other aspects which affects the buying behaviour of the
customers like style, price, wash effect, finish, fabric comfort etc. Among these factor 40%
people feel style is another important aspect for purcahsing a jeans. Pricebeing the second
important aspect is chosen by 27% people.

Page | 38

4. People satisfied with the fit of present denim jeans

Figure 10: Percentage of people satisfied with the fit of denim jeans
The pilot study defines that majority of people which is 63% of the total sample size do not
face fit issues. The remaining 37% face fit issues maximum at hip (80%) followed by crotch
(77%) and waist (34%).
3.2.6.2 Conclusion
Denim has become an integral part everyones wardrobe nowadays. Not only as a casual
wear or for certain occasions people like to wear it in their daily life. Along with providing
comfort and durability it has become a style statement for todays youth. Despite the hectic
schedule of the people the denims in their wardrobes keeps replenishing frequently.
It is the popularity of the denim jeans which has increased its market size as one can see it is
not only limited to the branded stores but also the local retail stores catering to all sections of
the society. There are major layers of denim in the market like Levis, Lee etc. which is
aspired by everyone but we cant ignore the booming up of the private labels. The private
labels have also gained popularity as they offer fashionable products affordable to middle
class people which are an important section of society.

Along with its usability there are numerous factors like price, brand, and wash effects etc.
which attract people to purchase denim jeans and affect their buying decisions. Fit being the
major concern customers do not want to compromise it over any other factors.

The people are satisfied with the fit of the jeans they wear. But in case they face any fit issues
they are mostly at hip and crotch.
3.7 Data Analysis Instrument

Data collected through survey, questionnaires and interviews will be analyzed by using
statistical tools in Ms. Excel like pie chart, bar graph, frequency charts etc.

Page | 39

3.8 Form of Result
The results of the research will be qualitative in nature. The findings of this research will
define the parameters which lead to fit issues in denim. It will also give information about the
changing buying behaviour of consumers due to fit issues.
3.9 Budget
S.No. Particulars Budget
1. Stationary Rs. 500
2. Internet Usage Rs. 1000
3. Transportation Rs. 1000
4. Telephone Communications Rs. 500

3.10 Schedule
Time Tentative Activity
6
th
Jan 2014 Objective & Problem definition
7
th
Jan 2014 Secondary Research
8
th
Jan 2014 Literature review
9
th
Jan 2014 Questionnaire formation
10
th
& 11
th
Jan 2014

Primary Research
13
th
Jan 2014 Data Analysis
14
th
& 15
th
Jan 2014 Findings & Conclusion, Data compilation

Page | 40

Chapter Four: Data Analysis

Page | 41

4.1 Hypothesis Testing
Hypothesis is usually considered as the principal instrument in research. Its main function is
to suggest new experiments and observations. In fact, many experiments are carried out with
the deliberate object of testing hypotheses. Hypothesis testing enables us to make probability
statements about population parameter(s). The hypothesis may not be proved absolutely, but
in practice it is accepted if it has withstood a critical testing.
4.1.1 Method of Hypothesis Testing
The hypothesis testing for this research is one by z- parametric test. z-test is based on the
normal probability distribution and is used for judging the significance of several statistical
measures, particularly the mean. In this, value of relevant test statistic z
obs
is calculated and it
is compared with its probable value i.e. z
critical
.

The test is based on the assumption of normality i.e., the source of data is considered to be
normally distributed. Even if the data for population is not normally distributed the testing
can be done because of Central Limit Theorem. This theorem explains the relationship
between the shape of the population distribution and the sampling distribution of the mean.
According to central limit theorem we can use sample statistics to make inferences about
population parameters without knowing anything about the shape of the frequency
distribution of that population other than what we can get from the sample.
4.1.2 Calculation
= 0.60: Hypothesized value of the population proportion of success (Not facing fit issues)
= 0.40: Hypothesized value of population proportion of failure (Facing fit issues)
Sample Size (N) = 100
P = 0.47: sample proportion of not facing fit issues.
q = 0.53: Sample proportion facing fit issues.
We want to test at Significance level () of 0.05 the hypothesis that 0.60 of the people do not
face fit issues.
: p = 0.60: Null hypothesis: 60% of the people do not face fit issues.
: p 0.60: alternative hypothesis: The proportion of people not facing fit issues is not equal
to 60%.
In this research, we want to know whether the true proportion is equal to the hypothesized
proportion. Thus, a two tailed test of proportion is appropriate and we have shown it
graphically in the following figure.
The significance level is corresponding to the blue coloured region. The acceptance region is
illustrated by the uncoloured region. The value of Z
critical
has been derived from Z table.
Page | 42

Figure 11: Two tailed test of Proportion showing the significance level
Confidence level (Z) = 1.96
Z
critical
= 1.96
We can calculate the standard error of the proportion using the hypothesized values of p and
q.
Standard error of the sample population

= 0.048
Next, we have standardized the sample proportion by dividing the difference between the
observed sample proportion ( ) and the hypothesized proportion ( ) by the standard error
of the proportion.
Z
obs.
= (Proportion of sample Proportion of population)
Std. error of the sample population
= 0.47 0.60
0.048
= - 2.708
Page | 43

By marking the calculated standardized sample proportion -2.708 on the sketch of the
sampling distribution it is clear that the sample falls outside the region of acceptance as
shown in the figure.

Figure 12: Two tailed hypothesis testing
Therefore in this case we should reject the null hypothesis and conclude that there is a
significance between the pilot tested hypothesized proportion of people not facing fit issues
(0.60) and the observed proportion of the people not facing fit issues in the sample (0.40).
From this, we should infer that the rue proportion of the people not facing fit issues in the
target population is not 60%.
4.2 Primary Survey
The primary survey on sample size of 100 was carried out through structured questionnaire.
The research was conducted on 10
th
January, 2014 limited to people residing in Gandhinagar
of age group 18-25 years. The sample population was approached personally as well as
through emails.

Page | 44

4.3 Results of the Primary Survey
1. Jeans preference of people

Figure 13: Survey Results: Percentage of people preferring jeans
Denim jeans are preferred by majority of people constituting 97% of them. This shows the
popularity of denim among people.
2. Purpose for which people wear jeans

Figure 14: Survey Results: Different purpose for which people wear jeans
A major part of population wear jeans as daily wear which is 90% and 25% people take jeans
as their casual wear. This shows that jeans is an important part of wardrobe for its customers.

Page | 45

3. Frequency of buying jeans

Figure 15: Survey Results: frequency of purchasing jeans
Even after tough schedule and busy life cycle people majorly shop once in three months
which is 60% and 33% people go for shopping twice in a year. Shopping frequency
increases at time of sales as we get to know that promotional offers affects the purchase
pattern of consumers.
4. Place of jeans purchase

Figure 16: Survey Results: Places from where prefer buying jeans
Page | 46

65% of population like to wear branded jeans while 29% people purcahse from private labels
and 27% purchase from local retail stores and 4% prefer street shopping.

5. Favorite brand for jeans

Figure 17: Survey Results: Favourite brand for jeans
Similar to our secondary research Levis is the most preferred jeans brand by people followed
by Wrangler and Spykar.
6. Average money spent to purchase a pair of jeans

Figure 18: Survey Results: Average money spent for purchasing jeans
Page | 47

The sample population consisted of graduates in Gandhinagar. They preferred to wear
branded jeans and so preferred a price range of Rs. 2000 Rs. 3000 for buying a pair of
jeans. The price range of Rs. 1200 Rs. 2000 was also preferred.
7. Aspects considered by people while purchasing a pair of jeans
7.1 Brand name

Figure 19: Survey Results: People considering Brand name as preference for buying
7.2 Price

Figure 20: Survey Results: People considering Price as preference for buying
Page | 48

7.3 Fit

Figure 21: Survey Results: People considering Fit as preference for buying

7.4 Comfort

Figure 22: Survey Results: People considering Comfort as preference for buying
Page | 49

7.5 Fabric Quality

Figure 23: Survey Results: People considering fabric quality as preference for buying
7.6 Durability

Figure 24: Survey Results: People considering Durability as preference for buying
Page | 50

7.7 Style / Design

Figure 25: Survey Results: People considering Style/ Design as preference for buying
7.8 Wash effect / Finish

Figure 26: Survey Results: People considering Wash effect/ Finish as preference for buying
Page | 51

7.9 Colour

Figure 27: Survey Results: People considering Colour as preference for buying
7.10 Promotional offers(sales, discount, etc)

Figure 28: Survey Results: People considering Promotional offers as preference for buying
Page | 52

The results of of our research shows that fit is an extremely important factor which is looked
at by people while purchasing a pair of jeans. Aspects like comfort,style and design, fabric
quality, durability are in the queue of importance.
8. Importance of other aspects over fit

Figure 29: Survey Results: Importance of fit over other aspects for purchasing jeans
a. Factors other than fit affecting the purchase behaviour of consumers

a) Style

Figure 30: Survey Results: Style as a preference over fit for buying jeans

Page | 53

b) Price

Figure 31: Survey Results: Price as a preference over fit for buying jeans

c) Wash effect / Finish

Figure 32: Survey Results: Wash effect/ finish as a preference over fit for buying jeans

Page | 54

d) Fabric

Figure 33: Survey Results: style as a preference over fit for buying jeans
e) Comfort

Figure 34: Survey Results: Comfort as a preference over fit for buying jeans
f) Brand

Figure 35: Survey Results: Brand as a preference over fit for buying jeans
Page | 55

Fit is the most essential aspect of a garment. It is the main concern for every buyer. A
majority of people i.e. 84% feels fit is an important aspect to purchase a denim. There are
some people which are not bothered about fit of the jeans (14%) and some(2%) are not even
concerned about the fit of the jeans.
Other than fit there are some other aspects which affects the buying behaviour of the
customers like style, price, wash effect, finish, fabric comfort etc. Among these factor people
feel comfort is another important aspect for purcahsing a jeans. Pricebeing the second
important aspect is chosen by people.
9. People satisfied with the fit of present denim jeans

Figure 36: Survey Results: Percentage of people satisfies with the fit of their present jeans

a. Areas of dis-satisfaction

Figure 37: Survey Results: Areas of dissatisfaction in the fit of jeans
Page | 56

10. Fit preference at waist

Figure 38: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at waist

11. Fit preference at hip

Figure 39: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at hip

Page | 57

12. Fit preference at thigh

Figure 40: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at thigh
13. Fit preference at leg

Figure 41: Survey Results: Fit preferences of people at leg
14. Ease in leg movement

Figure 42: Survey Results: Percentage of people facing fit issues in jeans at leg

Page | 58

15. Back curve fitness

Figure 43: Survey Results: Percentage of people facing fit issues in jeans at hip
The research study defines that majority of people which is 53% of the total sample size do
not face fit issues. The remaining 47% face fit issues maximum at leg (65%) followed by and
hip (51%).
4.4 Conclusion
Denim has become an integral part everyones wardrobe nowadays. Not only as a casual
wear or for certain occasions people like to wear it in their daily life. Along with providing
comfort and durability it has become a style statement for todays youth. Despite the hectic
schedule of the people the denims in their wardrobes keeps replenishing frequently.
It is the popularity of the denim jeans which has increased its market size as one can see it is
not only limited to the branded stores but also the local retail stores catering to all sections of
the society. There are major layers of denim in the market like Levis, Lee etc. which is
aspired by everyone but we cant ignore the booming up of the private labels. The private
labels have also gained popularity as they offer fashionable products affordable to middle
class people which are an important section of society.

Along with its usability there are numerous factors like price, brand, and wash effects etc.
which attract people to purchase denim jeans and affect their buying decisions. Fit being the
major concern customers do not want to compromise it over any other factors.

The people are satisfied with the fit of the jeans they wear. But in case they face any fit issues
they are mostly at hip and crotch.

Page | 59

Chapter Five: Conclusions
Page | 60

5.1 Summary
Fit is the most critical component that ensures consumer satisfaction with garments
constructed from commercial sewing patterns..As we know, fit issues in the RTW market
have a deep impact on the most people. India being the second most populated country has
large anthropometric variation in human body regarding shapes and sizes. The acceptance of
denim in India has grown tremendously over the years In order to rectify fit issues in RTW
precisely in denim jeans, different players have come up with wide range of fit solutions to
satisfy consumer demand but still it is difficult to find the perfect fit jeans for oneself.
The purpose of this research is to evaluate current sizing, grading, and fit practices So in this
research we have tried to find out the various denim jeans fit problems faced by people.
developments in the retail industry. Denim jeans market saw a rapid growth in second half of
nineties in India. While metros have been the key driver of growth in the initial phase for
most denim wear brands in the country, the largest growth is now expected to come from a
more deep penetration of denim in India. . The target population of Denim wear has been 14
to 39 years, which will be the majority of the population in the next 10 years.
years ,approximately 80% branded denim wear are sold in India.
When consumers were asked to name the most important feature for their denim jeans
purchase, denim fit was found the most important (50%), followed by style (19%) and price
(16%). Women were more likely to care most about fit than men (55% vs. 41%).
In our research we focussed on the target denim population i.e. youths between the age group
of 18-25 yrs for the city Gandhinagar, Gujarat. Through our research we came to a
conclusion that majority of the people has fit as their preference before buying a pair of
denim and the major area where fit is an issue is hip and thighs.
Therefore there is a need to focus on these areas to meet the customers needs.
5.2 Limitation
This study has attempted to delve into some of the important issues. However it is admitted
that there are some limitation in the conduct of this study which are as follows
The study should be carried on all India basis but it was not possible to visit whole of
India for this purpose and the study is restricted only to Gandhinagar area because
quantitative information was very difficult to obtain. Some of the empirical
investigation could not be carried out in detail because of non-availability of relevant
information for undergoing those investigations.
The study was done in Gandhinagar, Gujarat only hence there are chances that it may
not represent the perfect mix of the population and ethnicities.
Page | 61

The age distribution of the respondent may not match with the actual age distribution
of Gujarat youth.
Major source of data in this regard was from govt. department, which is very difficult
to utilize as it is not updated on a regular basis. The data is self-reporting it nature
which cannot be generalized.
Sampling technique used was non-probabilistic convenient sampling. The sample size
was 100 in Gandhinagar.
There appears to be little updated information on as a lot of changes have taken place
but were not incorporated. Most of these are offshoots of the self-imposed restriction
during the process of research in order to keep the research with in manageable limit
as time was short.
The possibilities of errors being introduced into the data by ignorance or selective
perception calls for cautious interpretation
The analysis is done by using simple frequency calculations; further analysis may be
done using Statistical tools for effective comparison.
5.3 Future Scope
Further study could be undertaken on similar lines with the various other age group
for males and females.
Further study could be undertaken on larger sample for standardizing the same sizes.
Establish the discrepancies in key measurements and may guide for best possible fit
related problems due to this difference.
Establish the discrepancies in jeans measurements for example waist size from one
brand to another and its reasons.
Establish the discrepancies in jeans measurements for same brand, same styling and
same fit.
Establish the difference between Gujarat youth Body measurement and jeans
measurements.
The research has been conducted in Gandhinagar region which would also help for
other parts of India as all the strategies would be same for Indian market. So the
geographical scope of the study is India.
A study could be undertaken to develop paper pattern for various deigns utilizing the
given basic blocks of denim jeans.

Page | 62

5.4 Findings
Following are the findings of the research done to identify the areas of denim fit issues:-
1. 97% of the people prefer to wear denim jeans.
2. 76% of them rated fit as extremely important aspect considered by people while
purchasing a pair of jeans.
3. 84% of the population did not want to compromise fit over any other aspect like price,
wash, etc.
4. 53% of the people were not satisfied with the fit offered by their preferred brand.
5. 28% were dis satisfied with fits offered at thighs.
6. The denims of 51% of the people did not fit at their back curve
7. Levis is the most preferred brand followed by lee, spyker, wrangler, pepe and flying
machine.
8. Regular/straight fit and tight/slim/skinny fit were most preferred by male youth aged
18-25
9. It was observed that approximately half of the male and female respondent faced fit
issues and for 53% respondent its very difficult to find a jeans that fits them well
5.5 Conclusion
This research study was for fit issue of Gujarat male youth aged 18 -25.And the discrepancies
in branded jeans measurement. The research study shows that todays youth is very aware of
fit issue. And they want better fitting jeans. The study revealed that skinny /tight fit jeans are
in demand in Gujarat youth. It was observed that fit is the most important criteria while
selecting the pair of jeans by male youth. Approximately half of the male youth faced fit
problems and difficult to Find a jeans that fits them well. The last but not the least one of the
important outcome of the study is that todays Gujarat male youth is well aware of brand and
ready to pay for the product with expectation of perfect fit of the product.

5.6 Recommendation:
This research is helpful for denim manufacturer in understanding the buying
preferences of customer and how to increase the level of customer satisfaction with
regard to fit and comfort.
This research is helpful for the denim manufacturer in understanding the role of size
and measurement for denim jeans.
And also the different brand jeans measurement data and there discrepancies data is
valuable for any jeans manufacturer to understand the discrepancies and problem in
fit.

Page | 63

Bibliography

Page | 64

Graduation Projects
1. Panwar Manish, (2013), Study of Fit Related Issues of Jeans for Male Youth (Age 20
24) of Gujarat and Discrepancies in the Measurement of Branded Jeans,
GDP00253, page 2-4, 9-17.
2. Verma Manubahv, (2011), Analysis of denim wear market to build a strong brand
loyalty for the brand UCB, MFTGP023VER, page 15-18.
3. Parwal Neha, (2008), Market study for brand XYZ in premium segment, page 15-
18.
4. Gupta Issha, (2003), Product Development of Trouser an in depth study of fit for
western region girls, G0100-GMT-2001-2003, page 11-17.
5. Roy Saibal, (2001), Ready to Wear Trouser: An In-depth study on Fit, GMT-65-
1999-2001, page 31-33.
6. Pal Nishant, (2012), Trend Analysis of Denim Fabric, Domestic Market and
Development of Sample, MFTGP037
7. Jain Radhika, (2013), Engineered denim, MFTGP062

Books
1. I. Levin Richard and Rubin Davis, (2006), Statistics for Management, Seventh
edition, Prentice hall Inc. USA, chapter-6(page 296-303, 309-320), chapter-7(page
358-364), chapter-8(page 403-413, 427-429).
2. Kothari C. R.,(2004), Research Methodology, Second revised edition, New Age
International Publisher, Jaipur, chapter - 2 (page 2 - 5), chapter -3 (Page 37 38),
chapter 4 (Page 58 68), chapter 6 (page 100 103), chapter 8 (page 157
161), chapter 9 (page 218 220)
3. Kumar singh Yogesh, (2006), Fundamentals of Research Methodology and Statistics,
New Age International Publishers, New Delhi, Chapter 5 (page 78 81), chapter
13 (page 191 199)
4. Kotler Philip and Armstrong Gary, (2001), Principles of Marketing, Millennium
edition, Prentice hall Inc. USA.

Page | 65

Articles
1. http://www.levistrauss.com/sites/default/files/librarydocument/2010/4/History-
Denim.pdf, 07-01-2014; 01:02am
2. http://www.denimblog.com/2010/02/the-history-of-the-wonderful-fabric-denim/, 07-
01-2014; 01:10am
3. http://www.garmento.org/jeans/history_of_denim.pdf, 07-01-2014; 01:20am
4. http://repository.lib.ncsu.edu/ir/bitstream/1840.16/7392/1/etd.pdf,08-01-2014;
08:13pm
5. http://yunus.hacettepe.edu.tr/~deniz/lisans/kin/kinant.pdf, 08-01-2014; 08:35pm
6. http://www.ergoeg.com/uploads/books/Introduction%20to%20Human%20Factors%2
02.pdf, 08-01-2014; 09:02pm
7. http://censusindia.gov.in/2011-common/censusdataonline.html, 09-01-2014; 04:10pm
8. http://www.census2011.co.in/census/state/gujarat.html, 09-01-2014; 04:27pm
9. http://censusindia.gov.in/Census_And_You/literacy_and_level_of_education.aspx,
09-01-2014, 05:00pm
10. http://www.jeanswest.com.au/shopping-online/sizing-charts/women, 10-01-2014;
11:30am
11. http://laurenconrad.com/blog/post/denim-guide-how-to-find-the-right-fit-for-your-
figure, 10-01-2014; 12:02pm
12. http://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM/article/view/845/909
13. http://lilt.ilstu.edu/staylor/csdcb/articles/Volume8/Bickle%20et%20al%201995.pdf
14. http://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM/article/download/845/909
15. http://www.citiindia.com/pdf/Harminder%20Sahni.pdf
16. http://www.iso.org/iso/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=44152
17. http://www.iso.org/iso/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=44152
18. http://www.technopak.com/files/Indian_Apparel_Market.pdf
Page | 66

Appendices

Page | 67

A1: Format of Questionnaire
Dear Sir/Maam
We are the students of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar, Gujarat,
conducting a research on fit issues of denim jeans on Indian male and female
consciousness (Age group 18 years to 25 years). We request you to participate in this
research as your feedbacks will be highly valuable and will help us in a great deal in this
study to find out the solution of the problem. You are requested to kindly give your valuable
2-3 minutes in filling up the following questionnaire.
1. Do you like to wear jeans?
Yes No Sometimes
2. For what purpose do you wear jeans?
Daily wear like in college, office etc. On occasions like wedding,
festivals etc
Casual wear Other, Specify
3. How often do you buy jeans?
Once in a month Once in 3 months
Twice in a year Once in a year
4. How many jeans do you buy in one purchase?
5. From where do you generally purchase jeans? (You may choose more than one.)
Street shops
Local retail stores
Private labels (John players, Blue Buddha, etc.)
Brand stores
If you wear branded jeans, which is your favourite denim brand? (You may
choose more than one.)
1. Levis 2. Lee 3. Wrangler 7.Others (Specify)
4. Spykar 5. Pepe Jeans
London
6. Flying Machine

6. How much price do you generally pay for a pair of jeans? (Please tick your choice)
Page | 68

Up to
Rs. 600
Rs. 600 -
Rs. 1200
Rs. 1200
Rs. 2000
Rs. 2000
Rs. 3000
Rs. 3000
and above
7. Which of these aspects do you look for while purchasing a pair of jeans?
Particulars Extremely
Important
Very
Important
Somewhat
Important
Not very
Important
Not at all
Important
Brand Name
Price
Fitting
Comfort
Fabric quality
Durability
Style/ Design
Wash effects/
Finish

Colour
Promotional
offers (Sale,
Discounts etc.)

8. Would you compromise on fit over other aspects like style, price, wash etc while
purchasing a pair of jeans?
Yes No Not bothered
9. Among the following on which factor would you compromise on fit?
Style Price Wash effect, Finish
Fabric Comfort None
10. Are you satisfied with the fit of the jeans you wear?
Yes No Not bothered
If No, then where do you face the fit issues?
Waist Thigh Hip Leg Back seat
11. What type of fit do you generally prefer in your jeans?
1. Waist Regular Low Ultra Low
Page | 69

2. Thigh Slim Regular Relaxed
3. Hip Skinny Regular Loose
4. Leg Narrow Straight Boot cut/ flare
12.
Q. No. Particulars YES NO No Opinion
1. Do you find fabric bulging near waist band?
2. Do you have free leg movements in your denim?
3. Does your denim fit you on your back curve?

Personal Details:
Name
Age
Gender
Occupation
Annual
income
Less than Rs. 1,50,000 Rs. 1,50,001 Rs. 3,00,000
Rs. 3,00,001 Rs. 4,00,000 Above Rs. 4,00,000
City
Mail id

Thank you for your contribution to our research. It is of great value to us.

*DISCLAIMER: This questionnaire is only meant for survey of our research as a part of our
curriculum. It would not be used for any other purpose other than academic.

Page | 70

A2: z table
Areas under the Standard Normal Probability Distribution between the Mean and
Positive Values of z

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