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Chapter 1:

The Backgammon Table and the Position of the Checkers at Start of each Game.
Whites outer board

Black's outer board

White's inner board

Black's inner board

The picture above shows the position of the checkers which is set up before starting a game and the
numeration of the fields - for which I will use the term 'points' from now on - seen from Black's side
of the board.
There are four sectors of the board named 'inner board' and 'outer board' it is important to learn
about this sectors because similar to football 'control of the space' is an important aspect in modern
backgammon which will be explained later on.

Numeration of the board seen from White's point of view:

I will use special terms in this book which you cannot find in dictionaries because they have been
created spontaneously from backgammon-players while playing. As I use such a term the first time
in this book I will mark it blue. There is glossary in the end of this part of the book where you can
find the explanations. I strongly recommend you to go through the glossary now for at least one
time because the terms are explained there in a way easy to memorize you will understand the
coming chapters much better than.

Chapter 2:

Basic for Calculations

Table of all combinations, possible be rolled with 2 dices:


Doublettes:
6+6 5+5 4+4 3+3 2+2 1+1
Combinations:
6+5 5+6 6+4 4+6 6+3 3+6

6+2 2+6 6+1 1+6

5+4 4+5 5+3 3+5 5+2 2+5 5+1 1+5


4+3 3+4 4+2 2+4 4+1 1+4
3+2 2+3 3+1 1+3
2+1 1+2

Backgammon is a Game of Chances.


You have to move your checkers in a way which gives you the highest number of chances in your
favour and the lowest number of chances for your opponent's favor according to the table above in
every situation of the game. You have to calculate what can possibly happen in the future roll.
As shown in the table above there are 36 combinations possible to roll with two dices.
The combinations shown in the first row a called doubles because they show the same number on
the White dice and the black dice.
The other rolls such as 2+1 are called combinations because they are built from two different
numbers.
The probability to come as the next roll is 'one out of 36' for each number shown in the table above.
But in practice 2+1 does come out twice as often as 1+1. Why is this so?
To explain this you need to roll with two dices of different colour, like shown in the table above.
2+1 and 1+2 are two different rolls.
In practice of the backgammon game this does not matter. As you can use 2+1 and 1+2 in the same
way you do not need to find out which of them lies on the table in the present moment.
That is why a 1+2 does come out twice as often as a 1+1. That is why a doublette comes only half
as often as a combination.
The probability to come as the next roll is rough 3 per cent for each doublette and rough 6 per cent
for each combination.
This is all you need about basis calculations for the backgammon game.

Chapter 3:

The Early Game

In the early game you have to go for getting a good position. Leaving your opponents inner board
and blocking him to leave your inner board is your general goal. Do not be afraid to leave shots in
this stage of the game. The inner board of your opponent is wide open - that is why your checkers
will enter the board most of the time easy after been hit. Now you must know about what the
chances are and what position is your goal.

This picture shows the ideal position to go for in the early game. In this middle game position
Blacks back checkers are both developed to 20pt. This point is now a anchor in Whites inner board
- this anchor makes it easy for Black to escape from Whites inner board into the outer boards.
On the other side of the board Black is blocking Whites back checkers with a 5pt-wall.
The position shown here is not easy to reach because you can not act on both sides of the table at
the same time. Plus the fact that your opponent does aim at the same goal as you do.
This is what makes backgammon to be a game of skill. There is no static position in the game. You
have to watch out for a possible changes from one strategic goal to another. What is right in one
position might be wrong in another position which is looking similar.
The running-game is 126 ./. 129 in Whites favour in this position, but this does not work out too
good because it will not be easy for White to escape his two checkers from Black's 1pt.
Short-cut for your aim in the early game with simple words:
Get your back checkers out and block your opponents back checker to play out his checkers too.
This is easier to state as to do of course.

Chapter 4:

The Opening Moves

This table shows how I move the Opening Moves:


6+5 5+6

24 18 13

6+4 4+6

24 18

6+3 3+6

24 18.....13 10

6+2 2+6

13 7 5

6+1 1+6

13 7

87

5+4 4+5

13 8

13 9

5+3 3+5

13 8

13 10

5+2 2+5

13 8

13 11

5+1 1+5

13 8

65

4+3 3+4

14 9

13 10

4+2 2+4

84

64

4+1 1+4

13 9

65

3+2 2+3

13 10

3+1 1+3

85

2+1 1+2

13 11

13 9

13 11
65
65

Your aim in the early game is to make your 7-field, 5-field or 4-field. You as the player who moves
the first move cannot start with a doublette. The best opening rolls are 3+1, 1+3, 6+1, 1+6, 4+2,
2+4, 6+5 and 6+5. These rolls are easy to move. But what about the other 22 rolls? A backgammon
aphorism is saying: There are no bad rolls; there are bad players only! This means you have to
know to do the best with opening rolls like 2+1, 4+1, 5+1, 2+3, 2+5, 3+6, 4+5 and 4+6.
Please note: There are not many chances to build position after you move
4+1 1+4

13 9 8

3+2 2+3

13 11

13 10

You will have to leave almost sure one or even more shots later in the game, if you move in this
way. That is why you must take calculated risks in the early game as long your opponents inner
board is wide open.
In case you move with 3+2 two checkers from 13pt in your outer board, these shots can only be hit
with a combined roll like 3+6, 6+3 4+6, 6+4, 5+4 and 4+5. These are only 6 out from 36. But look
how good this position becomes if these checkers have not been hit: You have many chances to
close your 7-field, 5-field and 4-field. Many rolls which would have been bad rolls after you
playing only one checker to your 8-field will be good rolls now.
Now the checkers on your 11pt and 10pt can be used as builders to make one of the key-points 7pt,
5pt or 4pt.

Chapter 5:

The concept of 'builders':

7pt, 5pt or 4pt are the most important fields to make in the early game in order to form a block from
8pt to 4pt. In the beginning of the game you have 'made' 6pt and 8pt already this graphic shows
the six checkers on 11pt, 10pt, 8pt and 6pt which you can use to build the points you are aiming for
without giving up 6pt or 8pt. These checkers are called 'builders'.

After playing 3+2 as a first roll 13 11 and 13 10 you have six builders to make one of the
points you are aiming for. You will 'make' one of this points In case you roll 1+1, 2+2, 3+3, 4+4,
1+3, 3+1, 1+4, 4+1, 1+5, 5+1, 1+6, 6+1, 2.6, 6+2, 3+4, 4+3, 3+5, 5+3, 3+6, 6+3, 4+6, 6+4 and 6+6
- a total of 24 out from 36 possible rolls. But not all of the remaining 14 rolls are bad rolls in this
position: With 6+5 and 5+6 you can move one of your back checkers to R12. With 5+5 you can
make W3 without reducing the number of builders for the more important fields.

Look how poor the chances to make your 7pt, 5pt or 4pt are after having played 6+4 as an opening
roll 8 2 and 6 2 making your 2pt. This point has no blocking qualities in the early game - plus
you are stripped of builders now. Does this picture have convinced you?

In this position Black has six builders too - but you have very few chances to make your 4pt 5pt
or 7pt with your next roll that is why you should avoid positions like this one.

Understandig the concept of builders is the key for understanding why it is good strategy to start 5pt
by slotting a '1' from 6pt to 5pt after have been rolling 4+1, 1+4, 2+1, 1+ 2, 1+ 5 and 5+1 as an
opening roll.
In this group of opening moves you move one checker from 13pt around the corner in your outer
board and one checker from 6pt to your 5pt in order to close this point with your next roll if not
been hit.
Your opponents inner board is wide open now and you still hold 24pt as an anchor - your opponent
cannot close you out that is why you should go for this calculated risk.

Chapter 6:

The middle game

This picture shows the two most important aspects to reach in the middle game.
The two black checkers on 20pt build an anchor in White's inner board now. This anchor prevents
Black to become trapped behind a White's wall. Read more about that in a later chapter.
The 10 black checkers on 8pt-7pt-6pt-5pt and 4pt built an indirect-5pt-wall over which White
cannot play his back checkers with any numbers of both dices..With a wall you can block your
opponents back checker to get into the running-game. Read about that in a later chapter.
What makes backgammon an exiting game of skill is the fact that both players aim this goals. Each
player tries to install a bridge in the opponents inner board and each player tries to block his
opponents back checker with a wall.
Because you cannot reach both of these goals at the same time you have to make decisions all the
time about what you think is more important to do at each present moment. You will find positions
to learn about tat in the second part in this book.
In the middle game you have always keep observing four facts:
(1) What is my position in the running-game?
(2) Can I escape with my back checkers?
(3) Do I have control about all sectors of the board?
(4) What is the position of the doubling cube?

Chapter 7:

The Doubling Cube

In the Beginning of each new game the doubling cube is placed in the middle between both players
on the side of the board as shown here. This means, the game is played for one point at this present
moment. '64' is in the top because both player do know that the cube will not be in the middle
between both players any more as soon a doubling has been made. The doubling cube remembers
about how many points the game is going at the present moment the value of each point has to be
agreed by the players before start playing.
There is money play which is played for winning and losing points.
There is tournament play which is played to an agreed number of points. The number of points has
to be an odd number of points such as 7, 9, 15 or 21.
As long the doubling-cube is his position in the middle between both players, each of both players
can double in every stage of the game as he is on roll. The other player calculates the position
before he agrees to take or refuse the double. In case the double is refused, the game is over right
away. The winner wins one point in that case.
In case a player takes the first double, he takes the doubling-cube on his side of the board as it is
shown here:

The double to 2 has been taken. From this moment on the right to double is on that player who has
taken the double. This is shown by the position of the doubling-cube.
From now on the player who has taken the double can double to 4 in every stage of the game before
rolling his dices. In case he doubles - the other player calculates the position before he agrees to
take or refuse the double.
In this way each single game can be doubled from 1 to 2, from 2 to 4, from 4 to 8, from 8 to 16 and
so on. Gammon counts double and backgammon counts triple the present value of the doubling
cube at the end of each game.

Chapter 8:

Running-game

Backgammon is a running-game (race) in general. Both players play their checkers around the
board in their inner tables first and then out. The player who has played out all his checkers first is
winner of the present game. The position in the running-game is counted by how many 'eyes' of the
dice (pips) a player needs to bring all his checkers around the board an move them out. This is
called pip-count. In the second part of this book I will tell about the present the pip count of each
position and give a comment about which player is leading an which player is trailing in the race.
As long there is contact between both players, it can happen that one checker of each player
becomes a shot and, if hit, this player will fall back in the running-game.

This picture shows a position in which is no more contact between the checkers of both players
Black on roll is leading 4 pips and he calculates an average roll as 8.2 pips.
As an additional disadvantage White has to make two cross-overs from one quadrant to the other
which will slow him down because he will need one roll for doing that.
Because of this facts Black is favorite to win this game.

As soon both players have played all of their checkers in their inner boards - pip-count does not
matter any more now has to be calculated how many rolls a player needs to play all his checkers
out.

This running-game situation -Black on roll - is pure mathematical:


6+6, 5+5, 4+4, 3+3, 2+2, 6+5, 5+6, 6+4, 4+6, 6+3, 3+6, 6+2, 2+6, 6+1, 1+6, 5+4, 4+5, 5+3, 3+5,
5+2, 2+5, 5+1, 1+5 = a total of 23:13 are winning rolls.
1+1, 4+3, 3+4, 4+2, 2+4, 4+1, 1+4, 3+2, 2+3, 3+1, 1+3, 2+1, 2+1 and 1+2 are loosing rolls = a total
of 13:23.
This gives Black a winning chance of rough 64 per cent. This is Blacks last chance to win this
game. In case he fails -White will win for sure.
Black must double this game before rolling to double his winning expectations. It seems to be a
paradox that (seen from the mathematical point of view) White must take this double - because he
will less loose by taking in average as if he passes. Let us see why:
In case White passes, he will loose 36 points out from 36 positions like this. This is a loss of per one
point per game.
In case White takes the double, he will loose 23x 2 = 46 points in 36 games in average. But White
will win 13x 2 points = 26 points in 36 games in average too. As the difference between 46 and 26
is 20 - the loss in 36 games will be 20 points in 36 games in average. This is a loss of about 0.58
only points per game in average instead of one point in average in case he passes.
Do not forget the doubling aspect in the excitement of the game because otherwise this will
cost you a lot of points in the long run.

Chapter 9:

Back-game

'Back-game' is called, if one of the players holds two deep points in his opponents inner board.
The player being in a 'backgame' is trailing in the match and he is in danger to loose gammon or
backgammon.

This picture is showing a potential back-game (!) - Black is trailing 31 pips in the race but he has
not made a second deep point in White's inner board yet.

This picture is showing a 3pt and 1pt back-game: Now Black holds 3pt and 1pt in White`s inner
board.
The most important aspect in a back-game is called 'timing'- this means how many pips a player
in back-game can play before he must break his inner board. In this case the third checker on 22pt
gives Black about 19 pips time' the three checkers on 8pt give Black another12 pips 'time' which
Black needs to keep his board a dangerous one until the moment he will get a shot.

This picture shows why it needs two deep points for a back-game: In case the player who plays the
back-game gets a shot it will be a double shot at most which is a 20:16 chances to hit while a
single shot is a 11:25 chance to hit only. There are a lot of warnings not to go for back-games in
various backgammon-books but I have seen the authors of these books playing back-games all the
time. This is a fact because most of the games cannot be played as straight running-games
calculated risk has to be taken in modern backgammon all the time. That is why you have to learn
how to play a back-game and how to counter a back-game. To counter a back-game you should not
give your opponent 'time' by hitting each of the shots he will offer you you should block his
'runners' in order to destroy his inner board to what is called a 'nothing board' as it is shown by the
picture below:

In this position Black's inner board is not ready to block a hitted checker Black needs to go for
getting time now. Hitting twice 22 17* and 10 9* would be wrong therefore. Right play in
this back-game is 10 9* 4 to force either White to hit or make 5pt and 4pt in case White does
not hit. Take a look at the picture below to catch the idea of timing.

As a backgame is always big danger for loosing a double game (gammon) or even a triple game
(backgammon) your (1) first goal after hitting an opponent's checker in a back-game should be to
avoid gammon and (2) the second goal should be to win the game.

Chapter 10: Walls

One of most important terms in backgammon is called 'wall'. A 6-point-wall with one or more of
opponents checkers behind is the ideal blocking position which can be reached at backgammon. At
the beginning of any new game both player want to install such a wall against ther opponent. This
picture shows a perfect wall which for his length named 6-point-wall. This picture shows a sixpoint-wall from 8pt to 3pt. As long White does not break down this wall, the Black checker on 1pt
can move only move to 2pt which is the 'edge of the wall' now. From there Black cannot move on
this checker because all his possible numbers are blocked.

The white checker on 2pt is on the edge of a 6-field wall now. This checker cannot be moved over
Black's 6pt-wall as long Black does not break this wall down. Black will try to move this wall
forwards until he has a closed board with at least one of Whites checkers on the bar.

This picture shows a white checker on 1pt behind an indirect 5-field wall. From an indirect wall you
can escape with a combination of two dices only. In this case White can escape with 6+1 and 1+6.

Whitess checker on 2pt is behind a direct 5-field wall. This checker is on the edge of the wall and
can escape from R2 with a 6 now. The chances this to happen are 11 out from 36 rolls.

Even an indirect four-pt-wall can be a good blocking position. White needs 6+1, 1+6, 6+2, 2+6,
6+3, 3+6, 5+3 or 3+6 to escape. This are 8 chances out from 36 rolls only.

Chapter 11: Blocking play

Blocking-play is a very important aspect of modern backgammon strategy. The understanding of the
blocking potential is important for most doubling decisions. In this case p.e Black should double
before next roll because one opponents checker trapped behind a 6pt-wall is a 97-percent-winningposition but it will not become a gammon most of the time.
Cases like this depend of timing. Black's aim is now to let White break his board to make sure he
will win this game even in case he must give a shot later.
Black on roll - he has rolled a high number which is not good for his timing.
Two possible plays:

(a) 9 3 and 9 -4 starting 3pt.

(b) 9 3 and 6 1* leaving two shots.

Play 'b' looks extremely dangerous - but as you know about blocking play you will know this is best
play because the does not break Black's 6pt-wall. Black will welcome to be hit because White
must break his inner board to let Black's checker come in from the bar.
There will be a lot of blocking position in the second part of this book to learn about all aspects of
blocking.

Chapter 12:

Shots and Quadrants

Similar as in the football game, 'controlling-the-space' is a very important aspect in modern


backgammon. To understand about that you need to understand three terms:
Quadrant, direct shot and indirect shot.
There a four Quadrants in the backgammon board: Whites inner board, Whites outer board,
Blacks outer board and Blacks inner board.
Control of the space means you have to place your checker in a way that your opponent can not
leave shot somewhere in the board which is not a direct shot.
A direct shot is a shot which can be hit with the numbers of one dice.

In this case this is a direct 4-shot which can be hit with any '4'. The chance to be hit if 1, 2, 3, 4 5
or 6 pips away is the same all the time. - see next picture:

Now White can hit with any '4' but he can hit with 3+1 1+3 2+2 and 1+1 too. White just a '4' is a
11:25 chance this picture shows a 15:21 chance.

This picture shows an indirect shot Black's checker on 8pt can be hit by a '7' only - that's why this
is called a 'indirect-7-shot'. White does not control Black:s outer board.
A very common aspect of loosing control of a space in the board - which is not noticed by many
players is not-controlling-the-space-behind-you. See an example:

Now White does not control the space from 4pt to 1pt any more Black can play bad numbers in
this area without being in danger to be hit there.

Chapter 13:

Flash technique

Some games end before they really have begun for one of both players. This because of flash
technique. This type of game is been tried for very often in modern backgammon - a successful
blitz ends as a double game (gammon) in most of the cases. Blitz is unusual play because 'trying a
blitz' you must make deep points in your inner board which you will not like to have closed in case
the blitz does not work.
A 'blitz' starts by one of the players splitting the back checkers most of the time.
In this case Black has splitted 24 19 and 24 20 with his 4+3 opening roll.

White did roll a 2+1 a roll which is not the best roll in a position like this.

Once upon a time a player might have played like seen here and been surprised about how the game
was developing after his opponent did roll a 6+1, playing one checker in, dancing with the other
one.
In these days players, who know how to play a blitz, do hit two checkers in their innerboard 'open'
as standard. Blitz is an 'all or nothing game' with the idea to catch at least two points.
As soon the opponent can make an anchor - the blitz is gone and the playerwho has tried to blitz
will have to struggle to win this game because the player 'on blitz' will have closed deep points in
his inner board which are not very useful after the opponent has anchored.
Let's see how this blitz continues.

White did roll 3+3 he did play 13 10 7 4 and 8 5 closing both open checkers on his
5pt and 4pt.
Black rolled 4+4 dancing one more time.

White rolled 6+4 he has moved two checkers in his outer board.

Black has rolled 5+3 he did play bar 3 and 13 8.

Should White offer a first double to '2' now?. Should Black take or pass this double?

White should definitely not double now because of gammon-chance.


Black should pass, if doubled.

Let us see a case now where a blitz failed:

White offers a double. This is a close take because of the fact that White has two builders on his 6pt
and 8pt only.

Black has rolled 5+2 forced play: Bar _< 5 and Bar 2.

Now White has rolled 4+2 he will have to decide whether to continue the blitz by hitting from 8pt
an his 2pt or close his 4pt. There are arguments for both variations - the decision to continue the
blitz might be depend on that open Black's checker on 9pt.
A blitz is an all-or-nothing-game which has to be played very consequent being aware that the
game will be lost most of the time in case opponent can establish an anchor.
The gain from trying a blitz is the chance to win a 'gammon'. You must try to double your opponent
at the last moment when he will take your double.

This is the position after White's move 8 4 2*, hitting.

Black has rolled 5+5 he has played Bar 20

13 8 and 2x 8 5.

Analysis:
As Black holds an anchor in White's inner board White's chances for winning the blitz is gone.
Still the game is not lost but Black has got a small advantage because of two 'death checkers' on
White's 1pt and the open white checker on White's 2pt.

Chapter 14: Late Game


In the late game there are two types of positions:
(1)
The straight running-game with no more contact between both players checkers. In this type of
game you cannot do much. The game is a strait race and you are in the hand of the dices. You
have to know about the chances - because the doubling cube becomes a very strong weapon in
this stage of the game.
Positions where one of the players is staying in his opponents inner board waiting for a shot.
because he is trailing in the running-game. In this cases the blocking player must try to bring his
last checkers into his inner board without leaving shots. That's why it can be wise to open the
blockade in a way which gives best chances not to give a direct shot.

(a) 8 3

8->5

(b) 7 2

74

In this position it is is useless to hold the 7pt in order to block White's back checkers because
White's timing is excellent. White will not break his inner board at least for three rolls. That is why
Black should open his7pt now to avoid to give a direct shot on that point later.
In case Black makes play 'a' he will have to give possibly an indirect shot on 8pt later but a
indirect shot is much less chances to become hit than a direct one.
Look for chances like this because otherwise you will loose more games as necessary.

Black to play 2+2

Moves to think about:

(a) 4x 2 out

(b) n2x 6 4, 2x 5 3

How would you as Black play 2+2 now?


See my explaining is on next page.

The cube is on Black's side Black is trying for a gammon. Should he play 4 checker out?
After (a) black has a position which is extremely dangerous - White's board is far to good to risk a
shot now. Having three opponent checkers on 1pt can be a gammon without taking this risk too.
After playing (b) Black will be safe for the next rolls.
***
Black to play another 2+2

In this case White has a 'nothing board' and there are two checkers back on Black's 1pt only.
This is a case where Black should take an extra risk to increase his gammon chances.
4x 2 out is best play in this position because it takes one checker out - better than 2x 6 4 and
2x 2 out because blocking high numbers increases gammon chances too. Black should not worry
to become hit on 2pt he will win a single game anyway in most of the cases after been hit.

Black to play 4+2. The Cube is on 2 on Blacks side of the board. This is a winning position with
great chances to win a gammon. But Black has to look one roll ahead to move this 4+2 in the right
way. What will happen one roll later with any number of the dices. Specifically big double lead to a
forced shot in the inner board very often in cases like this. In this case, only 6+6 will lead to trouble
in case you move this 4+2 without thinking. You may ask: Why to think so far if the probability that
a 6+6 will come at next roll is only 3 per cent? The answer to this question is that you have to think
on the long way at backgammon. n case you give away one per cent here and another three per cent
there this will end in loosing a lot of points or a lot of money in the long run.
***
Pictures tell more than words: After playing 4+2 like this Black must leave a shot if next roll is 6+6:

Black to play 4+3.

Moves to think about:

(a) 9 5, 8 5

(b) 6 2, 6 3

Playing save does cost Black nothing but a little thinking:


Open 6pt is best play because White has three checkers on the bar. in case White does not come in
with a 6+6 now Black can play any number in his outer board without being afraid to become hit.
There are many examples how to play out in part 2 of this book.

Chapter 15:

Extraordinary play

The most important fact you must know about modern backgammon is that you should avoid to put
games in categories and play 'textbook-play' there will be exceptions needed and you should be
always aware to see them.
As you are trained too much on 6pt-walls you might not see the right play on this position p.e.

There are many possibilities to keep the 6pt-wall and place builders somewhere to make 2pt next
roll. But what, if White rolls a '1' and closes this point?
2x 6 2* and 2x 5 1* is the right play and surprising a beginner will not hesitate to make this
play for even one minute.
After making the recommended play Black will be 45 pips ahead in the race. Except White rolling
6+6 or 5+5 Black will get some hit-and-passes perhaps or even re-making his 6pt or his 5pt. So
many options and in most of the cases Black will win a gammon which not would have been the
case if Black let White make an anchor an his 2pt.
Be aware not to fall into 'automatic play' try to see each position like a new one.
In case you do not believe what I am stating here, just do the masochistic work to set um this
position and play a hundred times in this way and a hundred time in that way and watch how the
game will be develop on most of the cases.

Switching Point...
is a technology which is I have not seen used recently maybe the following example will make
some players thinking?
Black to play 2+1

Even top players would probably play 4 3 and 4 2 and argue they did not believe to roll a roll
which would fit to close 3pt next roll.
Switching-point technique is not bringing the builders closer to the 3pt but brings the open point
closer to the builders: After 6 3 Black can close his 6pt with any 5, 6 or seven if not been hit.

The chance to become hit on 6pt is the same as on 3pt. In exchange for the risk to be hit on 6pt this
game will be won as a gammon after this play in most of the cases.

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