Bullwhip From Upcycled Belts

Bullwhip from Upcycled Belts
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nic6027 (/member
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I'm a deck officer in the merchant
/nic6027/)
navy. I spent my youth on square-rigged
sailing ships, travelled the world and
learned a lot of traditional crafts. For some
reason, my main hobby the last few
years...read more (/member/nic6027/)
Tags:
whip (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keyword-whip/)
leather (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keyword-leather/)
knots (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keyword-knots/)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT8/L37X/I169F166/FT8L37XI169F166.LARGE.jpg)
outdoors (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordoutdoors/)
bullwhip (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordbullwhip/)
Related
how to make a bullwhip
(/id/how-to-makea-bullwhip/)
by freerunnin1 (/member
Making a Paracord Whip
(/id/Making-a-ParacordWhip/)
by SAI Peregrinus
Paracord Bullwhip
(/id/Paracord-Bullwhip/)
by ch5 (/member/ch5/)
bullwhip with built in

survival kit (/id/bullwhipwith-built-in-survival-kit/)
by Pure Carbon
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKG/1DFB/I169F7V8/FKG1DFBI169F7V8.LARGE.jpg)
I love the feel of a leather whip in my hands, but leather is a lot more expensive
than paracord, especially for beginners, and preparing leather for whip-making
is a major undertaking. Fortunately, secondhand leather belts provide an
Paracord Whip!
(/id/Paracord-Whip-1/)
by Kyleluvspets (/member
/Kyleluvspets/)
See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)
23/11/2014 15:52
2 of 21
inexpensive way to make short whips.

For this project you will need:
Leather belts (see step 1 for more details);
Paracord or hollow shoelaces;
Steel BBs and/or lead shot;
A thin, rigid object to use as a handle (I use spare needles for pneumatic
needle-guns, but knitting needles should work too);
Plaiting soap (a mixture of soap, lard and water);
A pencil and paper;
A cigarette lighter or matches;
Fabric tape (the sort you find in the $2 shop) or electrical tape;
A tape-measure;
Either an aptitude for mathematics, or a calculator;
A stanley knife;
A lace beveller (optional);
Hammer;
Carpet tacks or small nails;
A computer with a browser and internet access;
A printer;
A toilet roll and glue or sellotape; and
Patience!
23/11/2014 15:52
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Step 1: Find your belts
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FR7/TO80/I169F1FJ/FR7TO80I169F1FJ.LARGE.jpg)
The most important part of this project is, of course, the belts. I usually find them
for between $2 and $5 in Op Shops (I think they're known as "Goodwill Stores"
in America, and "Charity Shops" in the UK). The ideal belt for whip-making is
plaited from flat, strong, thin leather, and is of the type that is plaited from long
strands which are doubled-over. Low-quality plaited belts are often not made
from leather; these can be identified if you turn the belt over. The strands are
open at the back, and are wider strands of fake leather which are folded over.
How many belts you need depends on the length, width and number of strands.
In this whip, I used most of three belts: one for the belly (8 plait) and two for the
overlay (16 plait).
This step is simple, but important: you need to unravel the belts, measure the
length and width of your strands and write the measurements on a scrap of
paper.
Step 2: Plan your whip

Do you still have that piece of paper with the strand measurements? You'll need
it for this step.
A whip consists of five main parts:
1. Core (the bit in the middle);
2. Belly or bellies and bolster, where most of the work is;
3. Overlay (the pretty plaited part on the outside);
4. Fall and cracker (the part that makes the noise); and
5. Decorative knots (usually turks heads).
If you look at your measurements, unless you're very lucky, you are likely to have
several groups of strands of different lengths and widths. The maximum length
of your whip is about 2/3 the length of your longest six good strands. In my case,
my best, longest three strands were 10 ft long (60"), which I cut in half to 5 ft, so
my whip was going to be about 2/3 of that, which is 40".
Once you've decided that, you can calculate the rest (round the numbers off they're approximate):
Core length = whip length x 5/6 = 40 x 5/6 = 33 1/3" rounds to 33" for me
Loaded length of core = core length x 0.9 = 29.7" rounds to 30" for me
Length of strands for belly:
2 strands at 3 x core length, 1 strand at 2 x core length, 1 strand at 1 x
23/11/2014 15:52
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core length. This is a minimum. If your belly strands are longer than this,
don't cut them at this stage - you can cut them while you're plaiting, which
will give you more control over your taper.
Length of strands for Overlay (assuming 16 strands):
6 x 1.5 whip length, 2 x 1.4 whip length, 2 x 1.3 whip length, 2 x 1.2 whip
length, 2 x 1.1 whip length , 2 x whip length.
Fall length: use the strongest piece of leather you have that's at least 1/3 to
1/2 x whip length.
Note: if you have really narrow strands, you might need more of them. A good
rule of thumb is that the total width of the strands when laid side-by-side should
be about 1.5 times the circumference of whatever you're plaiting around.
Step 3: Grease your strands
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNW/8QJD/I169F2EQ/FNW8QJDI169F2EQ.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FB7/5TU9/I169F2ES/FB75TU9I169F2ES.LARGE.jpg)
The recipe for the plaiting soap I use is 1 part grated soap (pure unscented
soap), 1 part lard and 1 part water, melted together. Some recipes use
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turpentine as well, but I don't like putting turps on leather. As far as I know, the
only reason for the turps is to prevent dogs on farms from chewing on the
treated leather, and I don't have dogs.
Rub the plaiting soap well into the strands. As you do so, pull firmly on the
strands to check for weak spots: it's far better to find and discard weak strands
now than to have your strands snap later on while you're plaiting.
Step 4: Prepare your core
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTR/VNHQ/I169F1PR/FTRVNHQI169F1PR.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0Z/F5UD/I169F1PS/F0ZF5UDI169F1PS.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9A/JGGQ/I169F20Y/F9AJGGQI169F20Y.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0O/R4F9/I169F278/F0OR4F9I169F278.LARGE.jpg)
This whip is halfway between a "normal" leather whip, and a paracord whip. For
the core, I've used BBs and #10 lead shot, packed into a length of paracord.
The length of the paracord is about 10% more than the core length you
calculated earlier. For me, that means a piece of paracord about 36" long. If you
don't have paracord, try a shoelace - as long as it's hollow and flexible, you can
use it.
Pull the core out of the paracord and set it aside for later. Insert your handle into
one end of hcarbon fibre rod, really long nails, or anything else you can think of
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0M/KVXA/I169F28G/F0MKVXAI169F28G.LARGE.jpg)
23/11/2014 15:52
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that will fit into the paracord.

Use your lighter, matches or another heat source to melt the end of the paracord
around the handle.
Stick the point of your pencil into the end of the paracord that doesn't have the
handle in it. Use your lighter to gently melt the end of the paracord around the
pencil point, then pull the pencil out. This should give you a sort of funnel in one
end of the paracord. Start stuffing BBs into the paracord and pushing them
down hard against the handle. Keep going until the BBs fill about 2/3 of your
loaded length (remember, you calculated that in step 4), then fill the remaining
1/3 with lead. Don't forget to wear gloves and wash your hands when you've
finished handling lead: it's toxic. If you don't have lead, just fill the whole lot with
BBs.
Tie a knot in the end of the core to keep everything in.
Step 5: Make your cracker
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRJ/QZKM/I169F5X8/FRJQZKMI169F5X8.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVY/539J/I169F5YM/FVY539JI169F5YM.LARGE.jpg)
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Remember the paracord core you saved when you started making your core?
That's pretty good to use for making crackers, but if you've lost it, baling twine,
cobwebs, long hair, thin fishing line, sinew, or really anything that's fairly strong,
thin and light can be used.
Whatever you're using, take about 3 or 4 ft of it and tie it in a loop. It doesn't
matter what knot you use, as long as it holds. Hold the knot between your teeth,
stick a finger, a pencil or something similar in the other end of the loop, and
twist. If you keep twisting for long enough in the same direction, eventually it will
kink and twist up on itself. When that happens, stop twisting, fold it in half and
allow it to twist up neatly. Tie a tight knot about 2" from the end, then trim the
very end off.
Step 6: Prepare your fall
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAN/03JH/I169F5O8/FAN03JHI169F5O8.LARGE.jpg)
You won't need this until much later, but it'll make your life easier if you prepare
it now. Choose the strongest, thickest strand you have and cut it to about half
the finished length of your whip. If you're not sure, leave it long: it's easy to trim it
down later.
Use a bevelling tool (I made mine following Bernie46's design on youtube
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdTc5eWH4Rk)) or a sharp craft knife to
round off the corners of the fall, then grease it well and cut a lengthwise slit
about 1/2" long, about 1/4" from the end.
Step 7: Getting ready for the belly
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FN8/QX4P/I169F2K9/FN8QX4PI169F2K9.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FI7/FX80/I169F2KX/FI7FX80I169F2KX.LARGE.jpg)
Gather your belly strands, find the middle and wrap them around your finger.
Use one strand to tie two half hitches around the strands on that side of your
finger (the photo should make more sense than that explanation), then remove
the strands from your finger and start a 4-strand round plait for about 1 1/2". As
a reminder, a 4-strand plait is under 1, over 1.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTG/P7ZY/I169F2N1/FTGP7ZYI169F2N1.LARGE.jpg)
Step 8: Plaiting...
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYM/X17K/I169F2O3/FYMX17KI169F2O3.LARGE.jpg)
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FI0/OLE3/I169F2ZO/FI0OLE3I169F2ZO.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2F/7GXI/I169F35Z/F2F7GXII169F35Z.LARGE.jpg)
Follow the pictures closely. Untie the two half-hitches and tidy up that end of
your plait, then lay your strands out as shown in the photo above. You are
starting an 8-strand plait around the handle of your core. Cross two strands
from each side cross at the front, then lay the handle underneath them and start
plaiting in an under 2, over 2 pattern. Once you have done a full pass with every
strand, pause to pull everything firm and make sure it's all laying right. Extra
care at this point can save you headaches later on. When you're happy,
continue plaiting, under 2, over 2.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJK/J40V/I169F36Y/FJKJ40VI169F36Y.LARGE.jpg)
Plaiting tip: as the saying goes pull tight, plait loose. That means that you only
need to tighten a strand before you plait it. As you plait, watch out for spiralling:
most people have one hand stronger than the other, and if you don't pay
attention, you'll find your plaiting seams going in a spiral rather than a straight
line. This is a bad habit to get into, and can affect the way your finished whip
flows when you crack it.
Step 9: Dropping belly strands
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKM/PEDS/I169F3GQ/FKMPEDSI169F3GQ.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWB/PC5F/I169F3GS/FWBPC5FI169F3GS.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVX/K2UL/I169F3S8/FVXK2ULI169F3S8.LARGE.jpg)
Show All 7 Items
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FXB/68ZK/I169F3R3/FXB68ZKI169F3R3.LARGE.jpg)
When you're about 1/3 of the way up (or down?) your belly plait, it's time to drop
some strands. Find your two shortest strands, and when they get to the "top" of
each hand,(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQR/D4MT/I169F3XU/FQRD4MTI169F3XU.LARGE.jpg)
just ignore them and change to a six plait (under 2, over 1 on one
side, and under 1, over 2 on the other side).
When you're about 2/3 of the way, drop two more strands in the same way and
change to under 1, over 1.
When you're getting towards the end of your core, you may find that the
lead/BBs are starting to bunch up. Simply untie the knot and allow them to
spread out neatly,
thenget a needle and thread, sew the end of the core up
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F43/05KT/I169F3ZP/F4305KTI169F3ZP.LARGE.jpg)
permanently, and keep plaiting.
About 1" after the end of the core, sew securely around all four remaining
strands and stop plaiting. Cut one strand off every 1/2", then sew around the
strands to form a tapered bundle.
Step 10: Roll the belly
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT5/NY8M/I169F465/FT5NY8MI169F465.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWO/X4QX/I169F4GW/FWOX4QXI169F4GW.LARGE.jpg)
Your belly is almost done, but the plaiting probably looks a bit rough and lumpy.
Find a flat solid surface (I use a large offcut of wood) and a flat solid object like
a hardcover book or a piece of wooden plank, and roll the belly firmly between
the two. This should make the plaiting lay flatter and form a better base for a
neat overlay.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRW/VPBD/I169F4JF/FRWVPBDI169F4JF.LARGE.jpg)
Step 11: Bolster and reinforce the handle transition
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZO/S9PP/I169F4R0/FZOS9PPI169F4R0.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/RTVW/I169F4XT/FKPRTVWI169F4XT.LARGE.jpg)
In a traditional leather whip, the transition from the handle to the whip is
reinforced by binding with sinew, and the bolster is a piece of thin leather
wrapped between the belly and the overlay. In this whip, good quality fabric tape
serves the same purpose (the joy of modern materials). Starting at the end of
the handle, wrap firmly over the belly, working towards the thong (the flexible
part of the whip) and overlap about 50% of each wrap. Stop when you're about
1" past the handle. Repeat this three times, each time going about 1 1/2" further.
I wrap in the opposite direction each time, but that's more out of habit than for
any good reason.
Step 12: The overlay
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRF/Y4IN/I169F55J/FRFY4INI169F55J.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0T/0NNR/I169F5C9/F0T0NNRI169F5C9.LARGE.jpg)
This is the part that everyone will see, so it pays to take extra care. This is
difficult to explain, so please look at the pictures.
Find your overlay strands and lay them out in pairs, matched by length. Put an
elastic band around the end of your handle, about 3" from the end. Pass the end
of one pair of strands under the elastic band; repeat with the second pair, but
put them either side of the first pair; put the third pair either side of the second
pair, etc. If you have 8 pairs, they should be in the following order: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
112345678
Once they're neatly in order under the elastic band, use a piece of the paracord
core that you set aside earlier to secure the strands tightly to the whip. I use a
common whipping and a constrictor knot, but as long as they're not going to
come off, it doesn't matter how they're tied.
Find your first two strands and use them as a guide to separate your strands
into two groups, left hand and right hand. Starting from the middle, mentally
name them L1 to L8 and R1 to R8. The names refer to the positions, not the
individual strands! Pass L1 to your right hand over R1 and R1 to your left hand;
pass R2 over all to your left hand and L2 over all to your right; pass R3 over all
to your left hand and L3 over all to your right; pass R4 over all to your left hand
and L4 over all to your right. Ensure that all strands are sitting neatly.
Starting with L8, pass it around the back of the plait, under R8-R5, over R4-R1
23/11/2014 15:52
and back to your left hand; pass R8 around the back, under L8-L5, over L4-L1
and back to your right hand. Continue with this pattern, passing each strand
around the back, under the first half of the strands in your opposite hand, over
the second half of the strands in your opposite hand, then back to the hand it
started in.
Step 13: Continuing the overlay and dropping strands
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4M/J9AB/I169F5CS/F4MJ9ABI169F5CS.LARGE.jpg)
Continue plaiting for about 1/5 the length of the whip, then drop two strands.
You drop strands by separating out the shortest two strands and when they
reach positions L4 and R4, lay them alongside the belly and plait over them. As
you will then have two strands fewer than before, change your plaiting pattern to
under 4, over 3 and continue plaiting. Once you have plaited over about 2" of
the dropped strands, cut them off at different lengths and continue plaiting.
Note: Before cutting, make sure you are about to cut the correct strands!
About 1/5 of the length later, drop another two strands, following the same
procedure and change to under 3, over three.
Repeat 1/5 of the length later, change to under 3, over 2.
And again 1/5 of the length later, change to under 2, over 2.
And again 1/5 of the length later, change to under 2, over 1. And continue with
that until your whip is the desired length, or you've almost run out of strands to
plait. Make sure you have at least 6" left.
Step 14: Attach the fall
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGA/01OW/I169F5RU/FGA01OWI169F5RU.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCS/LKU3/I169F671/FCSLKU3I169F671.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDH/0XC7/I169F6G3/FDH0XC7I169F6G3.LARGE.jpg)
Show All 7 Items
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FO3/BEC7/I169F6EG/FO3BEC7I169F6EG.LARGE.jpg)
Find your fall. It's probably buried under all of the offcuts and unused scraps in
the corner of your workspace.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F93/UEPP/I169F6NH/F93UEPPI169F6NH.LARGE.jpg)
Poke all 6 remaining strands through the slit in the end of the fall, slide it a short
way down the whip, and arrange your strands neatly so that you can see what
you're working with.
Take the lowest strand and tie a half-hitch around the whole bundle of strands,
whip and fall. Pull it firm, but not tight - you really don't want to snap it now. Take
the matching strand on the other side and repeat. Don't forget to include the first
strand you tied
in the bundle.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS9/U5S5/I169F6OD/FS9U5S5I169F6OD.LARGE.jpg)
Repeat, alternating sides, for the other 4 strands, then take the last strand you
tied and pass it back down through the slit in the fall. Pull each strand tight, but
don't snap them, then pull on the fall so that it slides up and locks the last strand
off.
Trim off all of the strands so they're about 1/4" long. Make sure you don't
accidentally cut off the fall - that really makes life difficult.
Step 15: Roll the whip

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FE3/L55G/I169F5IX/FE3L55GI169F5IX.LARGE.jpg)
Roll the whip between two hard surfaces, just like you did with the belly. It
should be starting to look pretty good by now.
Step 16: Attach your cracker
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FIB/SUBK/I169F75I/FIBSUBKI169F75I.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FI0/2LM1/I169F7CX/FI02LM1I169F7CX.LARGE.jpg)
23/11/2014 15:52
Open a loop in the "non-fluffy" end of your cracker and poke the end of the fall
through the loop.
Tie a half-hitch around the end of the fall with the cracker.
Pull it all tight.
You now have a usable whip, which you should be able to crack. Give it a try.
The rest of this instructable just makes it look a bit neater. You can stop here if
you want to.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRI/B95A/I169F7DR/FRIB95AI169F7DR.LARGE.jpg)
Step 17: Turks Head Base
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRZ/UBFC/I169F7L6/FRZUBFCI169F7L6.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFE/YVK4/I169F7M2/FFEYVK4I169F7M2.LARGE.jpg)
Cut a strip of thick leather or rubber about 1/4" and long enough to go around
the handle of your whip. Use carpet tacks to nail it around the handle, covering
the whipping that holds the strands on.
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Step 18: Turks Head
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F8N/N09L/I169NQB8/F8NN09LI169NQB8.LARGE.jpg)
Many people find this the trickiest part of the whip, mainly because there's a bit
of trial and error involved in working out what sort of turks head to tie. I've used
a 5 part, 6 bight turks head with two passes.
If you don't know much about turks heads, the International Guild of Knot Tyers
has a wonderful gridmaker (http://www.igkt.net/beginners/gridmaker.php) that
generates patterns for you to follow.
To use it, you need to understand some basic terminology:
"Parts" are the number of times the strand has to go around the pattern to
follow it once around;
"Bights" are the number of "loops" at the top and bottom of the knot;
"Passes" are the number of times you follow the pattern around completely.
To use the gridmaker, enter the number of parts and bights you want, then click
"Generate Turks Head". Print the pattern out, tape it around something like a
toilet roll and poke pins or toothpicks into the bights at the top and bottom. Use
the pins as a guide to carefully follow the pattern with a strand of leather. It
might take you a few goes to work out the right size for your whip, but it's a
simple way to tie a neat turks head.
Once it's tied, slide it off your toilet roll and onto your whip, then carefully and
patiently use something pointy to tighten it around the leather strip you nailed
on. The trick to making this look good is to work slowly and make sure that
every part lies flat and in the correct place before moving on. It usually takes me
at least two passes to get it neat enough to make me happy, and tight enough to
stay in place.
Once it's tight, trim the ends, sit back and admire your work - or go outside and
practice cracking it.
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.
I Made it!
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23/11/2014 15:52
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SparkySolar (/member/SparkySolar/)
27 days ago
Reply (CMEYR05I1QXTER0)
Thank you for this nice Instructable. I like it

(/member
Rima
/SparkySolar/)
SparkySolar (/member/SparkySolar/)
27 days ago
Reply (CK4EVTHI1QXTEQO)
Thank you for this nice Instructable. I like it

(/member
Rima
/SparkySolar/)
PowellMade (/member/PowellMade/)
1 month ago
Reply (CY5LNVII1FQ1C30)
Wow what skill! that whip is amazing! Its not hard to see you have made a
of these babies! One day I hope to make one of these. Could you make a
whip from suede? Well done!!
(/member few
/PowellMade/)
nic6027 (/member/nic6027/) (author)
PowellMade
1 month ago
Reply (C9TKW52I1FQ3K2Y)
1 month ago
Reply (C8UIXVZI1C3Z1X1)
I'm glad you like it.

(/member
/nic6027/)
Technically, I can't see any

reason not to make a whip from
suede, but I doubt that suede
lace would be strong enough to
plait tightly enough. It might work
better to make the belly from
leather or paracord, to give it
strength, and then try the overlay
in suede. If you try it, I'd be
interested to see the result.
FantumHawk (/member/FantumHawk/)
good instruct able. I got to give this one a try for sure....I won't put a popper
it though. It sounds better without it...
(/member on
/FantumHawk/)
(/member
/nic6027/)
Reply (CWX9CVYI1C1GHIL)
1 month ago
Reply (C1UE5DXI1CBZ2YJ)
I tend to prefer softer cracks than

loud ones, so I agree on one
level, but it's also worth trying
different materials and
thicknesses for your crackers: thin
kevlar crackers sound totally
different from crackers made from
a whole strand of paracord or VB
cord (the paracord/VB cord
cracker sounds far softer). Using
a cracker also means that your
fall lasts for longer.
gralan (/member/gralan/)
(/member
/gralan/)
FantumHawk
1 month ago
Thanks for the instructable. I haven't cracked a bullwhip in decades, but out
on the farm it was something us boys "had" to do... We were using an 8
footer. Woo hoo!
hegure_ryu (/member/hegure_ryu/)
Good job on this! It looks really good. I might have to try it.
23/11/2014 15:52
20 of 21
I found these old woven

leather belts are a great
(/member source of cheap leather
/hegure_ryu/)
when you can find them at
yard sales and the like.
Just have to be able to get
the real leather and not
the fake stuff. Just hope
projects like these don't
get too popular, so my
leather source doesn't get
even harder to find.
1 month ago
Reply (C3IMURXI1B63L92)
I have also seen some

whips done in the flat
nylon cord used in
weaving western belts too.
Cheaper, and lets you
practice your platting, but
not as nice looking.
(/member
/nic6027/)
hegure_ryu
1 month ago
Reply (CPGFEDMI1B65JNK)
1 month ago
Reply (CVXTC0VI1941BWC)
Thanks! If you try it, please let

me know if there's anything that
needs a better explanation :)
Finding the right belts, of good
leather, is a must for this to work.
Nylon/Paracord is definitely
another option, and has several
advantages (it's washable!), but
leather just feels nicer.
seamster (/member/seamster/)
Wow! This impressive work!

(/member
/seamster/)
I love that it's made out of used belts too. Great project!
(/member
/nic6027/)
seamster
1 month ago
Reply (CYK4CV2I169SI41)
Thanks :) The soap really does

make it easier to handle.
remington700links (/member/remington700links/)
1 month ago
Reply (CNVAC2YI1942XD0)
Great job.
(/member But looks very complicated, to me.
/remington700links/)
love to make a whip,looks better
instruction than my whip making book.
(/member
/nic6027/)
remington700links
Reply (CK0FCRQI169SI3Y)
1 month ago
Thanks. It's not actually that hard

once you get started, you just
need patience with the plaiting.
I've found Ron Edwards' book
"How to make whips," really
helpful when I started.
caracoda (/member/caracoda/)
This is a very good tutorial, and thank you for the soap recipe!
23/11/2014 15:52
1 month ago
Reply (CMEIF9VI169PAIA)
(/member
/caracoda/)
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Bullwhip From Upcycled Belts

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