Leh Guide - DOW

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Ladakh Travel Guide DOW

1.
Srinagar Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ....................................................................................... 2

a) Season to Travel on Srinagar Leh Highway ................................................................................ 2
b) Modes of Travel on Srinagar Leh Highway .................................................................................. 2
c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar Leh Highway ............................................. 4
d) Sightseeing on Srinagar Leh Highway ......................................................................................... 5
e) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar Leh Highway ............................................. 5
f)
Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar Leh Highway ..................................................... 6
g) Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar Leh Highway .......................................................................... 6
h) ATMs on Srinagar Leh Highway .................................................................................................. 6
i)
Places on Srinagar Leh Highway with their Distances ................................................................. 6
j)
Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar Leh Highway ...................................... 7
2.
Manali Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ............................................................................................. 8

a) Season to travel on Manali Leh Highway ..................................................................................... 8
b) Modes of travel on Manali Leh Highway ...................................................................................... 9
c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Manali Leh Highway .............................................. 10
d) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali Leh Highway .............................................. 12
e) Acclimatization and its importance on Manali Leh Highway ...................................................... 12
f)
Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali Leh Highway ............................................................................. 12
g) ATM on Manali Leh Highway ..................................................................................................... 12
h) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali Leh Highway ....................................... 13
3.
Places on Manali Leh Highway | A Detailed Description ........................................................................ 14
4.
Leh, Ladakh | Local Sightseeing and Travel Guide ................................................................................... 21
5.
Sham Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 23
6.
Nubra Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 25

a) Season for Traveling to Nubra Valley Ladakh ........................................................................... 25
b) How to Reach Nubra Valley Ladakh .......................................................................................... 25
c) Suggested Itinerary for Nubra Valley Ladakh ............................................................................ 26
d) Places to visit in Nubra Valley Ladakh ....................................................................................... 26
e) Other Important Information for Nubra Valley ............................................................................... 26
7.
Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ..................................................................... 28

a) Season for Traveling to Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh .................................................................. 28
b) How to Reach Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh ................................................................................ 28
c) Suggested Itinerary for Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh................................................................... 30
d) Other Important Information for Pangong Tso .............................................................................. 30
8.
Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide .......................................................................... 31

a) Season for Traveling to Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh ....................................................................... 31
b) How to Reach Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh ...................................................................................... 31
c) Suggested Itinerary for Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh ........................................................................ 32
d) Other Important Information for Tso Moriri Lake ........................................................................... 33
9.
Fuel Availability In Leh Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips ....................................................................... 34
10. Routes and Road Conditions In Leh Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips .................................................. 35
11. Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization ................................................................... 38
12. List of things to carry when you go on trip ................................................................................................. 41
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1. Srinagar Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey
The 434 KM long Srinagar Leh Highway is almost like a lifeline in the form of road connectivity between Leh
Ladakh and rest of India via Kashmir Valley. Srinagar Leh Highway also known as National Highway 1D
(NH 1D) is the most reliable and one of the only two ways to reach Leh Ladakh by road, the other one
being Manali Leh Highway. Generally, travellers or adventure lovers from all over world loves or dreams to
undertake this road trip of their life time by covering both routes connecting Leh Ladakh to rest of India i.e. a
lifetime experience road trip traversing Srinagar Leh Manali Highways. Apart from being famous for its
enchanting views, this highway holds a strategic importance for India and being close to LOC, you see the
heavy army presence on it when you travel through Srinagar Leh Highway.
The highway runs alongside the Indus River and through some extremely harsh and barren terrain including
the three high mountain passes named Zozi La (3528 Mtrs), Namki La (3815 Mtrs) and Fotu La (4108 Mtrs).
In any case, Srinagar Leh highway offers some breathtaking landscapes ornamented by various historical
and cultural constructions which are just like a dream treat for any traveller driving/riding through Srinagar
Leh Highway.
Generally, people travelling or flying directly to Leh Ladakh suffers from acute mountain sickness as Leh
(3500 Mtrs) due to sudden disturbance of altitude with which the body is adapted. However, Srinagar Leh
highway provides a gradual ascent to travellers thus helps them fight any chances of acute mountain sickness
(AMS) caused due to high altitudes and let them enjoy the beautiful vistas in relaxed manner.
a) Season to Travel on Srinagar Leh Highway
The 434 KM long Srinagar Highway generally remains closed for about 6 months in an year starting from
November to May due to heavy snowfall on the mountain passes mainly Zozi La pass. Zozi La pass starts
receiving snowfall in the month of November and then any day of November (generally 15th November
officially) the highway ceases to close officially as it becomes extremely difficult for BRO to clear the snow.
Then, again as the winter months resides, the BRO guys begins the snow clearance process in spring season
that is in March and repair the damaged roads, bridges and other parts of the highway. Finally, after
completing this rigorous job of snow clearance and fixing the roads, bridges etc BRO announces the opening
of Srinagar Leh Highway generally around mid May or by June first week.
Hence, the best season to travel Srinagar Leh Highway is between June to October. In May, if the highway
gets open then generally the roads are in really bad shape and only improves as the season progress with
constant repair work conducted by BRO. By end of June as the road condition stabilizes the monsoon comes
to the party in July and creates havoc in lower hills connecting Srinagar to Jammu and further to other parts of
India. The landslides are almost inevitable in monsoon season which causes road blockages ever now and
then. The Amarnath Yatra being in full flow in July August, do expect heavy traffic and rush from Jammu
Srinagar Kargil parts of highway. Even the dominance of armed forces also increase in July August owing
to the security of pilgrims of Amarnath Yatra.
It is almost a nightmare to drive through Zozi La Pass in July August especially when its raining or has
rained previous days but at any day better than Rohtang Pass on Manali Leh Highway which becomes more
than hell during monsoon season. One should always avoid Srinagar Leh Highway during days alongside
Independence Day in India i.e. 15th August which is when the bandhs and strikes gets more active. As the
end of August approach, the Amarnath Yatra is over and monsoon starts to reside from Northern India, the
conditions improve much more to travel on Srinagar Leh Highway and in September it could be called as
best time to travel but you will not find any snow of course. Even in August and late July snow will be hard to
touch except few patches on Zozi La pass.
Since, the other side of Zozila Pass mainly Kargil onwards comes under rain shadow area where only the dry
winds of monsoon reach. So, in July August you need to tackle the monsoon rains and their havoc in lower
hills only including Jammu, Srinagar, Zozi La pass i.e. till you reach Kargil where there is very little rain during
these months.
Throughout the season, you need to let pass large convoys of army trucks as army also stock up required
materials in Leh Ladakh through Srinagar Leh road majorly. This may cause delay of few hours every now
and then in your entire journey on Srinagar Leh highway.
b) Modes of Travel on Srinagar Leh Highway
Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh
Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to self
drive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is to
live the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India.
You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding through
slushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks of
your vehicle prior to the start of this comparatively less arduous journey than Manali Leh Highway.
For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen
hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Srinagar Leh Highway than
on Manali Leh Highway. If you want to try your sedan or hatch back drive to Ladakh then Srinagar Leh
Highway is better bet when compared to taking a sedan or hatch from Manali Leh Highway. However like on
Manali Leh Highway, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution even at Srinagar
Leh Highway and especially around Zozila pass (ascend and descend both).
You get less number of challenges on Srinagar Leh Highway as compared to Manali Leh Highway with
only major hurdle being Zozila Pass. However even then, whenever you are in doubt, always step out of your
car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path of exit before crossing a dangerous landslide
or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and see how others are crossing the risky section
to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to maintain the momentum without any half clutch
measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only. Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue
rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to pass you through, without half clutch measures. Do
keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get stuck in slush then try to back and forth your
vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask your fellow co-travellers to get out of the car
and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to pass through the slush or water crossing
stretch.
Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three 2 ltr empty bottles of
pepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak),
funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, Mseal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, do
not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This
will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that
may have been introduced in that service
Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number
All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are only
allowed for a drop in Leh Ladakh. As per the taxi union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are only allowed
to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. If you want to travel within Leh Ladakh in your
private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case you need to hire a taxi with private number
plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police
constables on your route. You need to ensure everyone interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.
If you can get hold of some taxi driver in Ladakh then hire that taxi only else go to Kargil first and change taxi
from there. From Kargil, the Ladakh taxi driver can pick you and you will have the advantage to cover the
sightseeing places en-route Leh on Srinagar Leh Highway like Alchi, Basgo, Likir etc before you reach Leh.
If that is not your plan then hire a direct taxi from Srinagar to Leh but with taxi hired with Srinagar number
plate you will not be able to do sightseeing en-route especially Sham Valley, as far as I know.
To hire a taxi, go directly to Srinagar taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh.
Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 12001500 extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 9000 to Rs 12000 for a
drop to Leh from Srinagar with one night halt, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and the time
of the year you are visiting.
Srinagar Leh Bus Service, JK SRTC and Others | Economical mode of travel
JK SRTC ply buses on Srinagar Leh Highway which are available at Srinagar Bus Stand near Lal Chowk
and near Polo Ground in Leh. I guess JK SRTC have both standard as well as semi-deluxe buses which run
Srinagar Leh Highway with cost of about Rs 500 Rs 600 for Standard bus and Rs 600 Rs 700 for semideluxe types. There are also few private bus operators running semi-deluxe buses between Srinagar Leh
who charge about Rs 800 Rs 900 per seat.
These buses generally stop at Kargil for the night and Sonamarg for tea and snacks. The JK SRTC buses
may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price. The buses leaves Srinagar around 5 AM
and Leh around 6 AM, I guess.
Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run
You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Srinagar and reaches Leh
on next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Srinagar as well.
You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1500 per person for a drop to Leh from Srinagar or a drop to Srinagar
from Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 7-8 other people plus the driver and completes the back braking
cannon ball run of Srinagar Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is
the second cheapest mode of travel on Srinagar Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the
body too.
Also, not staying at Kargil will mean less acclimatization which may make you feel a bit sick in the first few
days when you reach Leh.
Other travel modes
You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Srinagar who also runs their private buses or
Tempo Travellers on Srinagar Leh Highway.
c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar Leh Highway
Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Srinagar Leh Highway in one of the following
ways
Two Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway
The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali Leh Highway due to the limited
civilization but on the Srinagar Leh Highway you get the respite as there are plenty of civilized places
enroute and you get to find accommodation either one or the other place. You will find accommodation option
ever 70-80 odd KMs on an average. But still, a two day journey on Srinagar Leh Highway is the most
common among all travellers as you tend to see the beauty in relaxing manner as well as you help your body
to acclimatize to the altitude of Leh. Private Taxis and buses run by JK SRTC also cover the Srinagar Leh
Highway in two days with night halt at Kargil. Mostly, people break up the journey on Srinagar Leh Highway
in the following ways over a span of two days Srinagar Kargil / Drass (Day 1) and Kargil / Drass Leh (Day 2)
This option is mostly preferred by people as it evenly distributes the travel time of the entire journey in two
days. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the morning if you are interested to stop at
every other point to take pictures and still reach Leh in time :).
Personally, out of Kargil or Drass you shall prefer to stay at Kargil due to varied options of accommodation
available at Kargil. But, many a times finding vegetarian food becomes difficult in Kargil in the late evening
and hence, you can opt to stay at Drass which does offer a few accommodation options. The distance
between Drass Kargil is about 60 KMs only which means about 2 hours of more travel time on next day.
If you are a vegetarian then most likely, what you can do is that if you are reaching Drass by about evening
then its good to take your dinner there and reach Kargil by the late evening or early night time. May be a tea
or coffee with some biscuits will make you feel good for rest of the night. It will surely help rather than sleeping
without vegetarian food due its unavailability in Kargil
One Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway
Srinagar Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Srinagar Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or
people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are the
preferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this back
braking, cannon ball run of 15-16 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as the
mind of an average traveller. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount
of altitudes in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe
headaches and for initial days spent in Leh. Of course, this is true incase you have not stayed overnight in
Gulmarg or Pahalgam or Sonamarg on previous nights of your tour. Doing in a single day, may certainly kill
the joy of the journey.
Three Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway
Srinagar Kargil/Drass (Day 1) and Kargil/Drass Lamayuru/Alchi (Day 2) and Lamayuru/Alchi Leh (Day 3)
Well, by extending the journey of Srinagar Leh Highway in three days, you give yourself a chance to explore
the sightseeing places en-route thoroughly. There are many tourist destinations in Ladakh region which are
situated on Srinagar Leh Highway and requires time if you really wish to explore them. Hence, by extending
the journey with one day you give yourself ample of time to explore these tourist places before you reach Leh.
For more details on sightseeing refer section: Sightseeing on Srinagar Leh Highway, below in the article.
Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money. If these two things have no place for
consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your journey on Srinagar Leh
Highway much more than a memorable experience :). I guess the comparison of night halts (Drass/Kargil) is
already done in first option, so opt as per your taste.
This option will mostly be available, if you are travelling by your own vehicle. To be very frank, this option is
not even available if you are hiring a private Srinagar registered taxi as well because Srinagar registered taxi
are not allowed for local sightseeing in Ladakh region especially Sham Valley where all these tourist places
are present. In such a case you need to book a taxi to Kargil first from Srinagar and then hire yourself a taxi
from Kargil to Leh or you need to hire a Ladakh registered number taxi. Confirm in advance from the driver if
he will do sightseeing for Sham Valley before booking it. Then, in next two days after covering all tourist
destinations including Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Redzong, Alchi, Likir, Sham Valley etc on the route you can reach
Leh.
Staying one night at Alchi, which is lower in altitude than Leh, also make sure that your body is much more
acclimatized to the altitude of Leh and you enjoy a lot better conditions once you reach Leh after a stay at
Kargil and Alchi on previous nights.
Alternate Route to Leh from Kargil via Batalik and Dah
There exist an alternate route to reach Leh once you reach Kargil which is a bit more scenic than the usual
route. The usual route goes like Kargil Mulbekh Lamayuru Leh and the alternate, less used route goes
like Kargil Batalik Dah Skurbuchan Leh.
Please make a note that the route via Batalik requires you to get the Inner Line Permits from either DC
Office Kargil or DC Office Leh. So, I will advise that you go to Leh from Kargil via Lamayuru following the
usual route and then you can come back to Kargil via Batalik after getting the permits from Leh DC office at
the time you apply permits for Ladakh sightseeing places like Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso etc. If you are
returning via Manali Leh Highway then you need to take permits from Kargil DC Office to go via Batalik route
and thereby miss the usual route to Leh which goes via Lamayuru.
d) Sightseeing on Srinagar Leh Highway
Well, while traversing this beautiful road of Srinagar Leh Highway you also give yourself a chance to visit the
following places either on the route or with little diversions from the route Maitrey at Mulbek, Lamayuru Monastery, Lunar Landscape, Redzong / Rizong Monastery, Alchi Monastery,
Likir Monastery, Basgo Palace, Confluence at Nimmu, Magnetic Hills, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, Phyang
Monastery, Spituk Monastery.
You need to give yourself time to explore these places especially Lamayuru, Alchi and Likir monasteries.
Hence, if you plan to cover these sightseeing places either while going towards Leh from Srinagar or towards
Srinagar from Leh, then give yourself at least 3 days to cover the entire Srinagar Leh route.
e) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar Leh Highway
Srinagar Leh Highway is much better than Manali Leh Highway in terms of accommodation options it
offers and one can find decent place to stay within 125 odd KMs at max. At some places like Mulbekh,
Sonamarg, Drass etc the accommodation options could be very limited and basic guest house / home stay
types while places like Kargil, Lamayuru does offer varied amount of accommodation options. So, it always
better to break the journey at Kargil or Lamayuru but of course there are not much worries for places of stay
on Srinagar Leh Highway than on Manali Leh Highway. You can also take diversion to the towns of Alchi /
Likir for a stay there as well. Of course you will find basic home stay types of accommodation at both Alchi /
Likir but it would be a worthwhile experience in any case. Here is the breakup of accommodation options
available on Srinagar Leh Highway with distances
Srinagar Sonamarg (80 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Sonamarg
Sonamarg Drass (65 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Drass
Drass Kargil (55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Kargil
Kargil Mulbekh (40 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options available at Mulbekh
Mulbekh Lamayuru (70 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Lamayuru
Lamayuru Alchi / Likir (55 65 KMs / 65 75 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options
available at Alchi / Likir
Lamayuru Leh (125 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh
Alchi / Likir Leh ( 65 KM / 55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh
Please keep in mind that Alchi and Likir are not exactly on Srinagar Leh Highway and you need to take
diversions near Sasapol, I guess, for either of them. The distance between Alchi Likir is about 18 20 KMs
only.
f)
Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar Leh Highway
Unlike Manali Leh Highway, the journey on Srinagar Leh Highway goes through gradual increase in
altitude thereby helping our body to get acclimatized properly for the altitude of Leh. That is why going through
Srinagar Leh Highway is always preferred for road trip to Ladakh than going via Manali Leh Highway. By
going to Leh Ladakh from Srinagar Leh Highway, one gives himself a chance to properly acclimatize to
the high altitudes thereby decreasing the chances of being hit by AMS. In the return leg, you can go via Leh
Manali Highway so that your body is properly acclimatized by the time you under take the varied high altitudes
on that route. This helps you enjoy the Manali Leh highway in a better way as well.
Having said that even on Srinagar Leh Highway its always good that you take little precautions to further
minimize the effects of high altitude sickness. Here are some tips which will help acclimatizing the body faster
Try to cover the Srinagar Leh journey in two days with a night halt at Kargil most preferably.
Keep your body properly hydrated.
Avoid sleeping at high altitudes.
Avoid over exertion.
Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs.
Keep your body warm and eat lots of carbohydrates.
Avoid sleep during the day.
Sleep in upright position, if possible.
Carry preventive medicines for AMS.
Immediately descend, if symptoms increase.
g) Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar Leh Highway

Again, unlike Manali Leh Highway, it is easy to find fuel or petrol on Srinagar Leh Highway. One can get
fuel or petrol on Srinagar Leh Highway at: Srinagar, Kangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi, Leh
h) ATMs on Srinagar Leh Highway
As per my knowledge there are ATMS available at Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil apart from Leh and Srinagar
ATMs. I guess you should carry enough cash with you in Ladakh because ATMs at these limited places can
run out of money or become un-operational at any day or time.
i)
Places on Srinagar Leh Highway with their Distances
Generally, the places of on Srinagar Leh Highway majorly goes like Srinagar Sonamarg Zozi La Drass
Kargil Mulbekh Namika La Fotu La Lamayuru Khaltsi Sasapol Nimmu Leh and the
approximate distances between these places is shown below briefly Srinagar Sonamarg (80 KMs)
Sonamarg Drass (65 KMs)
Drass Kargil (55 KMs)

Kargil Mulbekh (40 KMs)
Mulbekh Lamayuru (70 KMs)
Lamayuru Leh (125 KMs)
j)
Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar Leh Highway
Facility
Accommodations
Stay Options
Places
/
Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi
Food / Beverages
Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi
Diesel / Petrol Pumps
Mangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi
Mobile Connectivity
Upto Sonamarg both BSNL and Airtel post paid connections work, then in
Drass only BSNL, once you reach Kargil you will get the Airtel signal, but
then in Mulbekh and Lamayuru only BSNL works, in Nimmu Airtel is
restored along with BSNL and once you reach Leh both Airtel and BSNL
works.
Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this
range than any other operator. Airtel works in Ladakh but with poor
connectivity.
SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel.
Vodafone did not work after Srinagar and but now works in Leh Ladakh
with Aircel. Surprisingly, Anadi reports recently (June 2013) below that it
does not work anymore, may be contract renewal did not happen or what.
So, do not rely on Vodafone.
Aircel also work in Leh and adjoining areas.
Packet data works but only with BSNL that too with EDGE only.
Prepaid connections from outside Jammu and Kashmir do not
work in Leh Ladakh. Carry only post-paid.
Anadi reports below: Vodafone postpaid still does not work after anywhere
after Srinagar on Srinagar-Leh Highway and towns falling on the said
highway.(It works in Gulmarg and Pahalgam). It did not work in Sonamarg,
Drass, Kargil, Mulbek, Khaltse, Nimmu and Leh. Bsnl was omnipresent. In
Leh, Bsnl, Airtel and Aircel were working. Vodafone, Reliance and Idea
were not working.
Fixed Phones
Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil, Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi, Nimmu and

in between these places as well
Electricity
Almost all the towns en-route have electricity and I wonder if there is any
town which lacks it.
Medical Facilities
Sonamarg, Drass (limited), Kargil, Lamayuru (limited)
ATMs
Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil
Mechanic / Puncture
Shops
Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Kargil, Lamayuru (Puncture), Mulbekh (Puncture),

Nimmu (Puncture)
Liquor Shops
Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil
2. Manali Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey
Manali Leh Highway is one of the roads that leads to the heaven on earth called Leh Ladakh (Srinagar
Leh Highway being the other one). It is one of those Highways which offers almost everything to an adventure
lover that is available with nature. Serious travellers in India and even abroad does have a dream of traversing
this most beautiful Highway at least once in their lifetime and I am honored to have experienced this journey
of my lifetime. Having said that, the journey on Manali Leh Highway could be a bit tricky to plan if you havent
researched well enough. Almost more than 350 KMs out of 474 KMs long Manali Leh Highway, does not have
any civilization and hence you would be the only soul wandering on most part of your journey here. Even one
cannot find fuel (petrol / diesel) for 365 KMs on Manali Leh Highway. Therefore, adequate planning is very
well required to travel on Manali Leh Highway so as to make it a memorable experience. I hope the below
information would be helpful for someone planning a journey on Manali Leh Highway
Before anything, if you really want to enjoy Manali Leh Highway then do it from Leh side. That is Leh to
Manali NOT Manali to Leh. This will help you enjoy the Manali Leh highway without bothering to rush
through the place or worry about AMS or driving with nausea etc. Manali to Leh will hold you back from the
enjoyment, believe me mostly due to AMs as majority of time you are above 4K Mtrs of altitude which body
cannot adapt easily. But, while coming from Leh towards Manali your body will be acclimatized for the
altitudes much more than when you travel in the opposite direction.
Secondly, it will also help you halt you journey at Sarchu which is at an even distance between Manali and
Leh and offers varied amount of accommodation option. Otherwise you will end up doing Manali Keylong on
one day and real push from Keylong to Leh on the second because sleeping at Sarchu is not recommended if
you are coming from Manali unless your body has completely acclimatized to Sarchu altitude by staying in
Spiti and Lahaul Valley for about 4-5 days.
Hence, always try to plan a journey to Ladakh in such a manner that you enter Leh via Srinagar side and then
after exploring Leh Ladakh for few days come back via Manali Leh Highway
a) Season to travel on Manali Leh Highway
Usually, the opening of Rohtang Pass and Baralacha La majorly governs the travel time on Manali Leh
Highway. The average time for opening of Rohtang Pass every year is around May and Baralacha La usually
opens up close to May end. Hence, June to September is the time window when the Manali Leh Highway is
open and is considered as the only time for travelling on Manali Leh Highway. In the early stages i.e. June,
one can find huge stocks of snow en-route but the road conditions may be a challenge to drive. While in the
later stages i.e. August to September, the conditions of the roads are almost perfect in shape with all the slush
dried out, maintenance work almost completed on these roads by BRO but your eyes will be devoid from the
snow mostly.
The weather in June is always unpredictable and chances of rain are also bright. This leads to the closure of
certain sections on Manali Leh Highway due to landslides triggered by rains. However, you may be lucky in
June as well to cruise this Highway in bright sunshine. June is not exactly the ideal time when one wants to be
in Manali due to mad tourist influx. As the July August comes, the Monsoon comes as well in the Northern
parts of India. However, the regions on the Northern side of Rohtang Pass that is Keylong and beyond mostly
remains untouched by these monsoon rains (except year 2010 which was an exception). So in July-August,
though you may need to cross the Southern side of Rohtang Pass in Monsoon rains that is Manali and lower
hills but after that, especially Keylong, you are almost good to go without much trouble with these rains.
June July is also the time window when the snow melts on high passes creating almost tiny rivers or water
crossings (nallas) on roads in the early stages. This is quite a challenge to dodge, especially with the vehicles
having low ground clearance. Post afternoon, when the sun is burning at its best, some of these water
crossings or nallas becomes so violent that they are almost impossible to cross. This may force you to halt the
journey of the day in the middle of nowhere or return back to some civilized place for a night halt. The best
way to overcome these water crossings or nallas, is to know the specific nallas on Manali Leh Highway and
plan to cross them as early in the morning as possible. In year 2010, one of the major hurdle was water
crossing or nalla just after Zingzing Bar and before Baralacha La. Another major one was between Rohtang
Pass and Sissu. In early stages (June), even crossing Baralacha La is a big challenge due to melting snow
which creates some deep water streams on the road itself. Slush is also bound to be present on Baralcha La
in the early stages of the season and is also quite a challenge to negotiate without proper skills even on
SUV/MUV. This slush is generally created by the constant moving traffic which beats the snow present on the
road or aside. Hence, try to cover these sections of Manali Leh Highway in the early part of the day, when
snow melts very slowly and traffic is less.
b) Modes of travel on Manali Leh Highway
IMPORTANT NOTE: Himachal Pradesh Govt. has banned the movement of non-HP registered vehicles on
Manali Rohtang Pass road with effect from 27th June 2011 onwards. If you are going towards Leh Ladakh
or Keylong in non-HP registered vehicles then you need to get permits from SDM Office in Manali. Bikes do
not need any permit and are free to move on Manali Rohtang Pass road, be it HP registered or not. So,
basically the ban is for LMVs having number plate outside Himachal Pradesh.
Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh
Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to self
drive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is to
live the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India.
You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding through
slushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks of
your vehicle prior to the start of this arduous journey in which you will be desolated majority of the time.
For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen
hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Manali Leh Highway.
However, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution. Also, be ready for few
scratches or sacrifice some parts on your sedans / hatchbacks under-belly due to the lack of enough ground
clearance which may be required in some water crossings or landslides on Manali Leh Highway. If you are
trying to attempt in a hatchback or sedan, I will suggest to plan the journey late in the season (August
September) when the roads are in good shape than early season.
Whenever in doubt, always step out of your car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path
of exit before crossing a dangerous landslide or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and
see how others are crossing the risky section to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to
maintain the momentum without any half clutch measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only.
Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to
pass you through, without half clutch measures. Do keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get
stuck in slush then try to back and forth your vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask
your fellow co-travellers to get out of the car and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to
pass through the slush or water crossing stretch.
Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three 2 ltr empty bottles of
pepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak),
funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, Mseal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, do
not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This
will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that
may have been introduced in that service.
Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number
All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are only
allowed for a drop in Leh Ladakh. They are not allowed to be driven in Leh Ladakh and as per the taxi
union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are allowed to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing. If you
want to travel within Leh Ladakh in your private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case
you need to hire a taxi with private number plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries
by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police constables on your route. You need to ensure everyone
interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.
Whenever, you need to hire a taxi always try to hire it from Manali, as the drivers of Manali will always be
more skilled and more accustomed to the route or current conditions of Manali Leh Highway. Secondly, the
locals always have a majority with an advantage of local support in any hurdle you might face on the way
towards Leh.
To hire a taxi, go directly to Manali taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh.
Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1000
extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 12000 to Rs 17000 for a drop to
Leh from Manali, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and time when you are visiting the place.
June being the highest paid and September August being the least paid.
On Manali bus stand, the taxis that drop people coming from Ladakh are also available sometimes. Since, the
same local sightseeing rules are applied to Ladakh taxis as well in Manali, they are bound to return without
any tourists from Manali side, officially. If you can catch any of those Ladakhi drivers, you might save yourself
Rs 3000 to Rs 4000 for a drop to Leh from Manali. Same rule is applicable from Leh to Manali side as well
and hence, if you can get hold of some Himachali driver at Leh taxi stand, you will again save about Rs 3000
to Rs 4000 on your return drop to Manali. However, you need to be a bit careful from local drivers while fixing
a deal with non-local drivers. So, it is always nice if you have some references on either place upfront and call
them directly to fix the deal. Secondly, it might be hard that these taxis will agree for any night halt on the way
but it depends on how you gel up in the negotiations and bargaining.
Manali Leh Bus Service, HPTDC | Good for a solo traveller or a couple
Perhaps if you are travelling alone or with one or two friends, you can buy or book tickets of Manali Leh bus
service of HPTDC. This semi-deluxe bus covers the 474 Km long Manali Leh stretch with a night halt at
HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong on coming from either side. The ticket costs Rs 2000 per person (as
per year 2010 price) which includes a stay at HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong and two meals i.e. dinner
and breakfast at the same hotel. There was also an option to buy the ticket only without hotel stay and meals
for Rs 1500 (not sure if it is still there). The prices mentioned here may change anytime though. The overall
comfort level of the bus is much better than other buses that ply on Manali Leh Highway.
The bus starts every odd day of the month i.e. 1,3,5 etc from Manali side and every even day of the month i.e.
2,4,6 etc from Leh side. (Schedule: At the time of writing this article) Hence, you need to plan your travel
dates accordingly, if you go by this option. The tickets can be bought or booked at HPTDC office on mall road,
Manali or you may like to contact at HPTDC Office in your local town (HPTDC Contact Details). Do not book
the seats at the back and confirm before booking regarding the location of the seats. At the back seats, you
may have trouble when the road gets bad especially on the second day i.e. Keylong to Leh. The bus departs
at 11 AM from Manali on the first day and 5 AM from Keylong on the second day to reach Leh about 7 PM.
Keylong Leh Bus Service, HRTC | Cheapest mode of travel
HRTC also run a regular bus service to Leh although not from Manali but from Keylong. However, you can
book tickets for connecting buses (Manali Keylong and Keylong Leh) from Manali bus depot itself or even
ISBT, Delhi. You can also reach Keylong by getting a seat in numerous shared taxis that ply between Manali
Keylong every day. The HRTC buses may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price.
The ticket between Manali Keylong costs about Rs 100 125 and then Keylong Leh it costs about Rs 450
550, in HRTC buses. I do not know the exact price though. The bus departs at 5 AM from Keylong and
reaches Leh about 7 PM.
Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run
You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Manali and reaches Leh on
next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Manali as well.
You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1800 per person for a drop to Leh from Manali or a drop to Manali from
Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 9-10 other people plus the driver and completes the back braking
cannon ball run of Manali Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is the
second cheapest mode of travel on Manali Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the body
too
Other travel modes
You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Manali who also runs their private buses or
Tempo Travellers on Manali Leh Highway. They are also run according to dates and hence you may not find
the immediate bookings for them.
c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Manali Leh Highway
Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Manali Leh Highway in one of the following ways:
Two Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway
The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali Leh Highway due to the limited civilization.
Hence, a two day journey on Manali Leh Highway is the most common among all travellers. Private Taxis
and buses run by HPTDC or HRTC also cover the Manali Leh Highway in two days. Mostly, people break up
the journey on Manali Leh Highway in the following two ways over a span of two days Manali Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa Leh (Day 2)
This option is mostly preferred by people who do not want to run the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) by
staying at higher altitudes than Keylong or Jispa. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the
morning like by 5 AM from Keylong or Jispa to reach Leh in time. Public buses including HPTDC / HRTC halts
for night at Keylong and leave at 5 AM in the next morning, too.
Personally, out of Keylong or Jispa I will always prefer to stay at Jispa, if travelling by your own or privately
hired vehicle. Jispa is situated right on the banks of river Bhaga and is further 20 KMs away from Keylong
town. Spending the evening at this place is extremely refreshing and is far better experience than the boring
Keylong town. While Keylong town offers varied accommodation options, Jispa has only few options available
for a stay and hence, it is important that you pre-book them. Secondly, if you are travelling by public transport
i.e. HRTC or HPTDC buses then you need to stay at Keylong only else you need to manage the travel to
Jispa yourself and then fix the pickup too with the driver or conductor. Mobile phones may or may not work in
Jispa.
Manali Sarchu / Pang (Day 1) and Sarchu / Pang Leh (Day 2)
After Keylong and Jispa, you will find accommodation majorly at Sarchu and Pang only. This option is also
taken by many travellers. However, Sarchu and Pang being at much higher altitudes, many people suffer with
headaches, vomiting or sleepless nights. Hence, if you have plans to stay either at Sarchu or Pang then it is
extremely important that you stay at Solang Valley not in Manali to acclimatize your body a little bit. Solang
Valley also may not help altogether though but Manali will certainly not help the cause.
Both Pang and Sarchu are close to mid way between Manali and Leh. So, a stay at any of these places
evenly distributes the time and fatigue over a span of two days. This way it helps you better enjoy the journey
on each of the two days. Again in between Sarchu and Pang, I will suggest a stay at Sarchu due to its lower
altitude than Pang. Pang has lesser and cheaper options available but Sarchu has varied options including
the Swiss tents with attached toilets. In the end, if you are coming from Leh, then you can stay at either Pang
or Sarchu without any trouble because by then your body will be acclimatized to handle such altitudes.
One Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway
Manali Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Manali Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or
people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are the
preferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this back
braking, cannon ball run of 16-18 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as the
mind of an average traveller. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount
of altitudes ranging from 1900 Mtrs to over 5000 Mtrs in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute
mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe headaches or disorientation en-route. This will certainly kill the joy
of the journey.
Keep in mind that you are most likely to hit with mountain sickness in this option. If you get away with it
consider yourself extremely lucky otherwise keep in mind that any breakdown of the vehicle like puncture,
engine heat down etc at some high altitude (Tanglang La, Nakee La, Lachulung La etc) with you suffering
from mountain sickness may lead to very very ugly outcomes. Hence, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT take the
acclimatization factor lightly.
Three Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway
Manali Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa Sarchu / Pang (Day 2) and Sarchu / Pang Leh (Day
3)
Well, this option is nothing but the combination of other two to cover Manali Leh Highway in three days.
Definitely, this option will require more time as well as more money but the results will be worth every penny.
This option is the best way to thoroughly enjoy the beauty of nature that is offered by Manali Leh Highway
with worries of mountain sickness but minimum and in relaxed manner. There are plenty of places / vistas and
picture taking points on Manali Leh Highway that are worth spending this extra time and money.
I suggest this option of travel or in particular overnight stay at Sarch/Pang only when you are coming from Leh
towards Manali NOT while going towards Leh from Manali side unless you are coming from Manali side after
spending some nights in Spiti and Lahaul Valley. Sarch and Pang are both above 4K altitude which require
your body to have few nights at 3K and 2K Mtrs of altitudes to acclimatize your body. If you went to Leh via
Srinagar side and coming from Leh after spending few days, your body will be acclimatized better to minimize
the chances of AMS at Sarchu or Pang.
Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money for the ultimate heaven. If these two
things have no place for consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your
journey on Manali Leh Highway much more than a memorable experience :). I guess the comparison of
night halts are already done in first option, so opt as per your taste. Again if possible, do stay at Solang Valley
not in Manali to minimize the chances or effects of mountain sickness.
This option will mostly be available, if you are travelling by your own vehicle. You will even have tough time
bargaining with drivers at Manali taxi stand for 2 night halts unless you are ready to pay them handsomely.
d) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali Leh Highway
Its always better to know or have the list of all accommodation places on Manali Leh Highway before you
travel on it because in such unpredictable terrain you can never predict what can come to your rescue. So,
having as much details as possible about the place is always favorable.
e) Acclimatization and its importance on Manali Leh Highway
The journey on Manali Leh Highway goes through series of high altitudes passes which are good enough to
cause headaches, vomiting, disorientation and mountain sickness to the best in the business. After crossing
Patseo or Deepak Tal you are bound to run this high road to Ladakh above 4000 Mtrs until you descend from
Taglang La towards Rumste / Upshi. However, with little prevention and care you can combat or minimize the
effects of altitude sickness. Here are some tips which will help fighting the AMS on Manali Leh Highway
Dont stay overnight at Manali, rather stay at Solang Valley which helps in the acclimatization whereas
Manali does not. You always have an option to roam around in Manali and come back for a night sleep at
some hotel in Solang Valley. This will help your body acclimatize to certain extent on the start of your
journey.
On Manali Leh Highway, do stay at either Keylong or Jispa which are lower in altitude than Sarchu and
Pang to minimize the effects of mountain sickness.
Keep your body properly hydrated.
Avoid sleeping at high altitudes.
Avoid over exertion.
Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs.
Keep your body warm and eat lots of carbohydrates.
Avoid sleep during the day.
Sleep in upright position, if possible.
Carry preventive medicines for AMS.
Immediately descend, if symptoms increase
f)
Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali Leh Highway
After Manali town, there is only one Petrol Pump at Tandi on entire Manali Leh Highway before Upshi /
Karu. DO NOT forget to get the tank full fuel at this petrol pump, even if you had it completely filled at Manali.
The more you have, the better it will be for you.
g) ATM on Manali Leh Highway
Do carry enough cash money with you as the ATM is available only in Keylong and Manali town. If you have
no plans to stay at Keylong then do not forget to withdraw cash from Manali town. After Keylong, you will get
hold of an ATM only at Leh town.
h) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali Leh Highway
Facility
Hotel / Guest Houses
Tents / Camps(Dhaba
/ Swiss / Normal)
Food / Beverages
Diesel / Petrol Pumps
Mobile Connectivity
Fixed Phones
Electricity
Medical Facilities
ATMs
Police Checkpoints
Mechanic / Puncture
Shops
Liquor Shops
Natural Highlights
Places
Khoksar, Sissu, Gondla, Patseo, Tandi, Keylong (Many options), Jispa, Upshi
Marhi, Jispa, Darcha, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu (Many options), Pang
Marhi, Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal,
Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang, Rumste, Upshi
Tandi (107 KMs from Manali), Karu (36 KMs from Leh)
In our case, mobile signal of Airtel worked till Keylong only and then
faded rapidly. The signals were restored after crossing Upshi for Airtel.
Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this
range than any other operator. Airtel works in Ladakh but with poor
connectivity.
SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel.
Vodafone did not work for us at all after crossing Marhi and not even in
Leh -Ladakh.
Packet data also works upto Keylong and in Leh packet data is available
only with BSNL edge.
Prepaid connections do not work in Leh Ladakh.
Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Sissu, Gondla, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Sissu, Keylong
Keylong
Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi, Khoksar (For foreigners only)
Marhi, Khoksar, Tandi (not sure), Keylong, Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi
Marhi, Keylong, Darcha, Upshi
Rohtang Pass, Tandi Confluence, Sissu Waterfall, Deepak Tal, Suraj Tal,
Baralacha La, Strange Soil formations, Moore Plains (Wildlife too), Taglang
La or Tanglang La, Gata Loops
3. Places on Manali Leh Highway | A Detailed Description
There is no doubt that Manali Leh Highway is easily the most adventurous as well as the most beautiful
among all the Highways in India. Every adventure lover has a dream to traverse this 474 KM long, Manali
Leh Highway at least once in his or her lifetime. However, I strongly feel that everyone who loves to travel, be
it adventure lover or nature lover or any other form, must and must travel Manali Leh Highway at least once
in his/her lifetime. Personally, I am lucky enough to have gone through the experience of this lifetime journey
and wish I will do it many more times in future too. Over a span of 474 KM, on the Manali Leh Highway, one
goes through varied forms of nature ranging from beautiful lush green valley(s) to rocky barren multi colored
mountains to high walls of snow to violent river/water crossings (nallas) to wide flat lands to abrupt landslides
to head swaying hair pin bends to butter smooth roads to many non-existent and washed away roads to
strong cold winds blowing you away and to what not :lol:, all this raising the fun of this ultimate journey to
greater heights.
The Manali Leh Highway makes you experience the raw mother nature present on earth in almost its every
form. Technically, BRO takes care of this Highway and they have further divided its responsibility between
Project Deepak and Project Himank. Project Deepak is responsible for maintaining the section from Manali to
Sarchu(222 KM) in Himachal Pradesh region while Project Himank is responsible for Sarchu to Leh (252.4
KMs) section which falls in Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir region.
This article is an informatory dissection of all major places that comes on the route from Manali to Leh along
with the details of food, fuel, accommodation or stay options, amenities etc on Manali Leh Highway. I hope
this may help you get an idea of what is offered on a journey of Manali Leh Highway bearing in mind the
stoppages of your interest including overnight stays, food, beverages, amenities, photos etc. If you are not
interested in much of the text then you may also check the summary of the places in tabular format at the end
of the article directly.
Manali | Altitude: 1950 Mtrs Solang Valley | Altitude: 2590 Mtrs
Manali, about 570 KM from Delhi, is the place from where this life time journey begins. Manali, the valley of
gods is lush green at the time when you would be doing your Leh journey and you will definitely enjoy the
weather there. Although, in May June due to holiday rush this place is not a penny less than the chaotic
trade fair and I am sure you will not want to be at this place in such a tourist rush. Being said that, you can do
a lot in Manali town.
One point worth highlighting here is that if you are on your way to Leh Ladakh from Manali then avoid
staying overnight in Manali town rather stay overnight at Solang Valley, 14 KM away. Why? Manali is at lower
altitude than Solang Valley and does not help in acclimatization. Solang Valley does help acclimatize your
body to some extent which may help in minimizing the troubles of mountain sickness as you move ahead
towards Leh Ladakh in upcoming days. Solang Valley is further 16 KM ahead of Manali and is much calmer
place as compared to Manali. Solang Valley also offers some majestic views along with adventure activities
like parachuting, paragliding, skating and zorbing etc
The only drawback with Solang Valley is that you wont find as many options for a stay as you can find in
Manali. The prices of the hotels in Solang Valley are likely to be on the higher side as compared to the varied
economic hotel options available in Manali town. Also, the variety of cuisines will be much less as compared
to Manali and mostly you will need to have your food in hotel only. But, the advantage acclimatization and
peace definitely outweighs these minor hitches, unless you really want a very very cheap hotel. If you really
miss different cuisines and lively place, you can surely spend your day in Manali enjoying the other flavors of
the valley and come back to hotel at Solang Valley for night stay.
Technically, Solang Valley is not on Manali Leh Highway rather one needs to take a left diversion from
Palchan and travel further 6 KM to reach Solang Valley. If you have hired a taxi from Manali to Leh, you need
to ask the driver upfront to pick you from Solang Valley hotel. If you have opted for a shared taxi / public bus,
then you yourself need to reach Palchan, the diversion point on Manali Leh Highway to get into one of them
en-route but that also must have been booked in advance from Manali.
Gulaba
Running through few small villages (Palchan, Kothi) of this beautiful lush green valley you reach Gulaba, 20
KM from Manali. Gulaba is famous as one of the lower winter snow point when the road to Rohtang Pass gets
closed. There are only few Dhabhas on Gulaba and no options of stay.
Marhi | Altitude: 3300 Mtrs
After Gulaba, one reaches Marhi which is the highest snow point in winters when road to Rohtang Pass is
closed. There are few Dhabhas on Marhi and as well as there is a liquor shop as well :D. There are no stay
options apart from those temporary Dhabhas.
Rani Nala
Few KMs ahead of Marhi you reach Rani Nalla which is a glacier point. This place is famous for its huge snow
walls, more than 20 feet high. You can find snow here almost every day of year, may be just year 2010 was
an exception. The feeling of going between these huge walls of snow is impeccable. Of course, if you do not
leave early in the day then surely the traffic jam may frustrate you here due to the narrow passage and kill
your time. You need to leave as early as possible like 5 AM from Manali to avoid traffic jam on Manali
Rohtang Pass road. In year 2010, the stretch here was in pathetic shape and took many lives due to constant
landslides. It is perhaps the last major point on southern portal of Rohtang Pass. No stay or food options are
available here.
Rohtang Pass | Altitude: 3980 Mtrs
51 KMs away from Manali town, Rohtang Pass connects the tribal valleys of Lahaul and Spiti to Kullu Valley.
This is the hottest Himalayan tourist spot in Northern India and people flood this place in the month of May
and June. Do expect heavy tourist rush and traffic jam, if you are late in leaving from Manali. It is closed for
more than six months in the winter months due to heavy snowfall. Many people feel the altitude factor after
reaching Rohtang Pass with headaches and feeling to puke. So, it is better to keep yourself hydrated on the
way. You can enjoy food / beverages here but there is no place for accommodation. By the way meaning of
Rohtang is pile of corpses or dead bodies ;)
Gramphu | Altitude: 3200 Mtrs
After you descend towards northern portal of Rohtang Pass, you reach Gramphu. At Gramphu, there is a
diversion towards right which will lead you to Spiti Valley via Kunzam Pass. If you want to visit Chandratal
then you need to take the diversion towards Spiti and once you reach Battal, go straight towards Chandratal.
There are no stay or food options at Gramphu.
Khokhsar | Altitude: 3140 Mtrs
Just few KM after Gramphu you reach Khoksar which is the first settlement in the Lahaul Valley of Himachal
Pradesh. This place has several Dhabhas where you can enjoy the food, a clean washroom / toilet to freshen
up and a PWD rest house. In order to stay at PWD rest house, generally you will need the advance bookings.
There are few houses as well in this small village. The Chandra river flows through this place and the views
are just amazing from the village.
Sissu | Altitude: 3170 Mtrs
Sissu or Khagling is a small town situated at the right bank of Chandra River in the Lahaul valley of Himachal
Pradesh. There is a waterfall on the opposite side of town which, people says, looks spectacular but
personally I havent seen it.
It has a PWD Rest House but in case you want to stay then do book that in advance else you may not find the
accommodation. My personal experience had not been good with getting any accommodation at any of the
HP PWD Rest Houses. There are few small dhabhas or food stalls where you can find food, tea/coffee and
drinking water as well. You may also get some basic healthcare facilities at the local Primary Health Care
center at Sissu town. There is also a helipad that is used for the chopper services and mainly utilized by
locales in the winter months when the roads are closed due to heavy snow at Rohtang Pass connecting Kullu
Manali Valley and Kunzam Pass connecting Spiti Valley.
Tandi | Altitude: 2573 Mtrs
At Tandi, you will find the only petrol pump on Manali Leh Highway after Manali and up to Upshi / Karu or
Leh. The next petrol pump is about 365 KMs away towards Leh from Tandi. Hence, it is extremely important
that you do not miss this petrol pump to top up the fuel. Apart from being famous for this only petrol pump on
Manali Leh Highway, Tandi is a confluence of Chandra River and Bhaga River. The merged river is called
Chandrabhaga River and when it enters Jammu and Kashmir, it is further called Chenab river. The Chandra
River originates from Chandratal, Spiti Valley and Bhaga River originates from Suraj Tal or Surya Tal, Lahaul
Valley. So, if you have time on hand then do click some pictures of the confluence too.
Keylong | Altitude: 3080 Mtrs
Keylong is the biggest town located on Manali Leh Highway and is the district/administrative headquarter of
Lahaul Valley and Spiti Valley districts of Himachal Pradesh. All the major GOVT. offices of the district are
present in Keylong town only. The Keylong town is completely cut off from the outside world in the winter
months of November to April, due to heavy snow present at Rohtang Pass. There is a famous Kardang
Monastery in Keylong which is the largest and most important monastery of Lahaul district of the Drukpa sect
of Tibetan Buddhism. The views from the Keylong town are nice with Bhaga river flowing in between but
personally I felt it (Keylong) too boring
Most people while travelling on Manali Leh Highway including the HRTC and HPTDC bus services halts for
a night stop at Keylong town. There are many options of accommodation (small hotels and guest houses)
available at Keylong including the famous HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Circuit House, PWD Rest House,
Tourist Bungalow etc. There are few small hotels or guest houses in Keylong town which are right on the
Manali Leh Highway and can be opted for a stay too.
Also, people coming to explore Lahaul Valley including Udaipur, Triloknath Temple etc make Keylong as the
base town. There are phone and power connections which can be utilized to call at home, charge mobile or
camera batteries. Beyond Keylong you will not find mobile signal and fixed landline phone except Jispa.
Medical facilities are also available at the local hospital and there is also one SBI ATM in Keylong town. So, if
you have by chance missed the ATM at Manali to fetch the cash then do not miss this one. At first place, I will
say do not miss the Manali ATM but still if you have missed it then try your luck at the Keylong ATM which is
the only ATM in reach on Manali Leh Highway.
Jispa | Altitude: 3320 Mtrs
Jispa, is a small village that is located on the banks of Bhaga River. While coming from Manali side, this is my
most preferred place for a night stay and to break the journey on Manali Leh Highway. The accommodation
options present in Jispa are limited as compared to Keylong but if you book them in advance I bet the vistas
are worth spending time and money. There is hotel Ibex, a guest house and some camping tents including the
Swiss tents which are available as stay options at Jispa. You can get the food as well as beverages here. The
village also has a small monastery, a small museum along with numerous trails into the woods which you can
explore or how about spending some time on the banks of Bhaga river, for me its just amazing. There is a
helipad as well in Jispa. Jispa have telephone connection which you may use to call at home or inform
someone close because beyond Jispa mobile signals (might have gone already) as well as fixed phones will
be hard to find till you cross Upshi or reach Leh.
Darcha | Altitude: 3360 Mtrs
Darcha is a small village that is considered as last northernmost civilized place in Himachal Pradesh.
Primarily, everyone travelling on Manali Leh Highway needs to stop at Darcha police checkpoint and has to
register their names with vehicle number in the passerby records. This acts as a record that a person has
passed Darcha on his journey on Manali Leh Highway which is useful in case of rescue like operations (or
other purposes as well). Foreigners need to get their passports verified at Darcha police checkpoint. Darcha is
also the endpoint of a famous trek which starts from Padum, Zanskar Valley in Ladakh region and of course,
you can start the same trek from here as well :)
Food / Drinking Water / Beverages (tea/coffee) in dhabhas or road side stalls is available at Darcha. This
place also have some tented accommodations and a few people stay overnight at Darcha as well. Darcha
does have telephone and power connections, in case you need to call home or charge your phone or camera
for one last time before reaching Leh then you may try your luck here as well. I didnt see any phone here but
people do say that the village has the connection even WIKI also say so
Beyond Darcha, the vegetation will start to reduce and the mountains will start to change their colors into dark
brown water color paintings that we all used to paint in childhood. Decrease in vegetation also means difficulty
in pumping the oxygen and increasing altitude will make it even tougher. This is another reason why you need
your body to be acclimatized better and hydrated always on this tough journey. Do not forget to intake good
amount of water just to keep your minerals and oxygen correct in the body. It will be best if you can carry ORS
diluted water with you all the time and keep sipping it after every half an hour or so.
Deepak Tal | Altitude: 3810 Mtrs
Deepak Tal is a small manmade lake near Patseo having its own charm and is one of the two lakes that
comes on Manali Leh Highway. The still water of the lake offers some very nice reflecting views, almost
picturesque from many different angles to all those photography lovers. So, if you are one of those then get
ready to shoot some unique angle of your own :) You can enjoy a cup of tea or your breakfast at the Dhaba
just aside Deepak Tal. Beyond Deepak Tal, you will be at an altitude of more than 14000 feet till you reach
about Upshi. So, get ready for some real fun in various ways
Patseo | Altitude: 3811 Mtrs
After passing through Deepak Tal you will reach Patseo just a couple of KMs ahead. Patseo is a small place
where only few army camps are present and they have diverted the road in some weird zigzag manner. Once
you reach Patseo the roads deteriorates considerably and there on for about 40-45 KMs till about you pass
Baralacha La, you will find some very rough or even washed away roads.
Zingzing Bar | Altitude: 4270 Mtrs
Zingzing Bar is a tiny place with 2-3 tented dhabhas that offers stay options in them. Of course, these
dhabhas does offer food and beverages too. If leaving early from Keylong/Jispa and if you are one of those
who eat late after waking up then you can mark this place for breakfast as well. This is where the ascent to
the mighty Baralacha La pass starts. Just after Zingzing bar, there is a nalla (water crossing) created by the
melting snow of Baralacha range. So, do cross this nalla or water crossing early in the morning because in the
late noon it becomes barely impossible to cross this violent nalla even by trucks :). In such a case, on Manali
side, you will either have to stay overnight in the vehicle or Zingzing Bar dhabhas and on the Baralacha La
side, you will need to go back to Bharatpur or Sarchu tented accommodations for a night stay or stay in
vehicle.
Suraj Tal | Altitude: 4950 Mtrs
Suraj Tal or Surya Tal is the second highest lake in India and 21st highest lake in the world. Amidst in the high
hills of Baralacha La range and just below the Baralacha La pass (8 KMs before Baralacha La pass), you will
find this beautiful crystal clear aqua colored sacred body of water. Suraj Tal is the source of Bhaga river and
remains totally frozen and cut off in the months of winter.
Early in the season i.e. June, you may find this lake to be frozen as well. As the time pass into the summers,
surrounded with snow covered peaks and emitting its aqua green color as the base, the Suraj Tal looks simply
breathtaking. Do not miss to click few pictures of this amazing high altitude lake in India.
Baralacha La | Altitude: 4890 Mtrs
Baralacha La or Baralacha Pass (La meaning Pass) is second of the five high mountain passes that comes on
Manali Leh Highway. Baralacha La connects Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh district of
Jammu and Kashmir. At the North West base of Baralacha La range, Bhaga river originates from Suraj or
Surya Tal and at South East base, Chandra river originates from Chandratal. Yunam river flows on the Sarchu
(Ladakh) side of Baralacha La. There is another famous trekking route which goes to Chandra Tal or
Chandratal, either starting from or ending at Baralacha La. You will not find any food or water or
accommodation at this pass.
After Rohtang Pass, Baralacha Pass is the second major hurdle to cross or open. At least in the early season
of Manali Leh journey, you will certainly witness one or two vehicles either stuck aside or stuck in the middle
to traffic jam the road. The ice or snow melting from the slopes, battered by moving traffic either creates deep
slush or deep water crossings by washing away the roads. This makes the journey more adventurous and full
of challenges on this mighty mountain pass :).. The feeling of passing through this particular pass is a feeling
of its own kind and I purely loved it
Bharatpur | Altitude: Not Sure and Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs
After passing through a small deserted place named Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai, you will reach Bharatpur
(city) which has 2-3 dhabhas as well as a series of tented accommodation running alongside Manali Leh
Highway. Some people do stay overnight at these camps as well. The tents here are cheaper as compared to
Sarchu. You can have food / tea / coffee here. Once you cross Bharatpur, after a few KMs you will come
across a road straight as an arrow leading towards Sarchu. Your instincts will compel you to rip apart and just
zip pass through it. I will suggest to hold on to those instincts as the road is straight but does have lots of
bumps in between may be due to loose soil beneath or due to holes dug by Himalayan marmots. All I want to
say is that while speeding through that road, do not be too complacent while driving :) else ready for some
super bumps on the way
Sarchu | Altitude: 4290 Mtrs
Sarchu, 222 KM away from Manali, is famous for its good tented accommodations on Manali Leh Highway.
At Sarchu, the state changes from Himachal Pradesh to Jammu and Kashmir. Also, the Deepak Project ends
and Himank Project starts from Sarchu. At Sarchu, there is a second police checkpoint where you need to
register your name again on this epic journey. The entry acts as a record of your arrival up to Sarchu. Sarchu
is almost a middle point of the journey on Manali Leh Highway having good amount of tented
accommodation options including the Swiss tents with attached toilets. Hence, many people do consider it for
a night halt. People already having the night halt at Keylong or Jispa, usually stops for lunch at Sarchu. It does
have few dhabhas (2-3) which offers food and beverages as well.
Sarchu is at high altitude and many people staying overnight here suffer from mountain sickness including
sleepless night, severe headaches or vomiting. If you are not properly acclimatized you will surely be one of
them, suffering the pinch or punches :) While coming from Manali side the body is not properly acclimatized
and incase you have not had a night stay at Keylong or Jispa, the body will surely suffer to adapt at such high
altitude at night. Hence, even though Sarchu offers good amount of stay options (tented) but its always better
to avoid a stay at Sarchu over Jispa or Keylong in the same order of preference. However, if you are coming
from Leh after spending few nights at higher altitudes then the body is acclimatized to adapt and you can
either opt to stay at Sarchu or Pang depending upon your taste of the place.
Gata Loops | Altitude: 4190 Mtrs
After 24 KMs from Sarchu, a series of 21 hair pin bends or loops about 7 KMs long, just before Nakee La
Pass, will elevate you from an altitude of 4190 Mtrs to 4630 Mtrs. They are called Gata Loops. No food, no
fuel and no accommodation is available here.
Nakee La | Altitude: 4740 Mtrs
This one is the third of the five passes that comes on the Manali Leh Highway. You will not find any soul,
food, accommodation or fuel or even trees here The place is totally deserted.
Lachalung La or Lachulung La | Altitude: 5079 Mtrs
Lachulung La or Lachalung La or Lungalacha La is the second highest pass on the Manali Leh Highway.
Get ready to start feeling some breathlessness from here. You will reach above an altitude of 5000 Mtrs or
16000 feet for the first time on your journey. Again there is no vegetation (also counts for breathlessness too),
people, fuel, food, or accommodation
Pang | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs
Pang, is where you really start to see those unique looking soil formations on the mountains and special
colors of Ladakh will become more prominent just around Pang and onwards. Pang also has the worlds
highest transit camps. Pang has few tented accommodation in Dhabhas for a night stay and one can also
enjoy food or beverages on their short stopover at Pang, evening tea may be. One of the Dhabhas also had
attached bathroom. Few KMs before Pang, the road runs alongside a river which offers an exciting feeling and
some very nice vistas. Pang along with its surrounding areas, does offers some fantastic views to be captured
in your camera. Hence, do not miss on the opportunity to record few of them Pang is at higher altitude than
Sarchu which will account for headaches + mountain sickness and offers much lesser accommodation option
too. Hence, it is always better to stay at Sarchu which offers the Swiss tents too.
This is the last point where you can find food and accommodation at least before Upshi, which does have very
basic and limited guest houses. If you are running late, then at Upshi as well you are likely to be unlucky on
accommodation front. Hence, if you think you have gone late and dont want to carry on till Leh in dark, I will
suggest you to stay at Pang only and thoroughly enjoy the rest of the colorful journey in next days daylight, it
will be totally worth.
Moore Plains | Altitude: 4730 Mtrs
Moore plains or Morey plains are surprisingly, flat bedded plains amidst the highest of hills in the country.
They run over a length of about 30-35 KMs. As soon as one reach here, the instincts force people to make
their own roads but I request you not to do so because it damages the ecology of the place and disturbs the
wildlife. Many of the wild animals live on the water sources present in Moore plains and running the car off the
used tracks may damage those scarce sources. Most people make their own road here and try to do all
sought of things with their vehicles, including race with other fellow drivers (specially common among taxi
drivers). However, these jerks are unaware of the fact that along with risking the damage to the vehicle in
loose soil or pot hole in the middle of nowhere they are also disturbing the ecology of the place. So, I request
at least you not to do so and respect the mother nature in every term so that it prosper more and more If
you are lucky you may spot a Kiyang (Ladakh wild asses) here and blue sheep too. Hence, keep your
cameras ready for the game
Debring | Altitude: 4835 Mtrs
At Debring, there are few wrecked shelters of road workers may be and some army camps too. There is a
road (rough in condition) rather I shall stay dirt track that goes to Tso Kar lake and further to Tso Moriri lake of
Ladakh. However, you cannot visit the lakes if you are going from Manali side as you will not be having the
inner line permits to visit the lakes. The permits are issued from DC office, Leh or even if you arrange the
permits through a travel agent it is not recommended that you attempt a stay at such high altitudes (Tso
Moriri: 4595 Mtrs and Tso Kar: 4530 Mtrs) with improper acclimatization. Well, on your return if you have
plans to visit Tso Moriri and Tso Kar then you can return via this route. However, the road conditions are bad.
Taglang La or Tanglang La | Altitude: 5328 Mtrs
This is the last and the highest pass on Manali Leh Highway at a whooping height of 5328 Mtrs or 17582
feet. This pass is also the second highest motorable pass or road in the world, after Khardung La (5602 Mtrs
or 18380 feet) which is the highest motorable pass or road in the world. The winds at the pass are freezing
cold and the force is such that it will blow you off the cliffs Sometimes, its even hard to stand your ground
even. Secondly, the oxygen level per breath decreases considerably and with almost nil vegetation most
people suffer breathlessness at this pass. The raging pollution from trucks or oil tankers also accounts for the
stoppage being brief, by most people. Dont be surprised if your head may also spin many rounds at this
place, especially when you come from Manali side. While our short stay of 10 minutes, I had almost lost my
footing quite a number of times due to that spinning affect at Tangang La (Disorientation or ataxia) The
picture aside the sign board of second highest motorable road in the world, is a must for everyone visiting this
mighty pass. No food and no accommodation is present here.
Rumste | Altitude: 4260 Mtrs
As you descend from Taglang La, Rumste is the first settlement you will come across as you enter the Leh
valley. It is situated alongside the Indus river and have several tea houses. The road conditions will
dramatically improve as you descend from Tanglang La towards Rumste. There will be a point when you will
be driving just adjacent to Indus river and you will feel ecstatic, forgetting all about the swaying headaches in
the past 3-4 hours. Reaching the place, you will start to breathe a bit better and so as your head will also feel
slightly lighter. I started to feel that I have reached my dream destination i.e. Leh :). I am not aware or heard of
any accommodation or food options which may be available at Rumste apart from some home stay, if the
villagers allows you. Secondly, the drive to Leh from Rumste is almost like a drive in plains and you can cover
it fast enough. Hence, after clicking the pictures of this small village you better move ahead towards Leh.
BTW, the trek to Tso Moriri and Tso Kar and further towards Kibber in Spiti Valley also starts from Rumtse.
Upshi | Altitude: 3480 Mtrs
Upshi has the last police check point where you need to register your name along with vehicle number in the
records. This marks either your arrival in Leh town or marks the departure from Leh town in opposite direction.
Upshi is a small town from where you can lead to Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes via Chumathang. It does have
few hotels or guest houses with food but they are very basic. Upshi and (few KMs ahead) Karu also have a
petrol pumps from where generally you need to top up on the return towards Manali from Tso Moriri and Tso
Kar lakes route. But, you can ignore it if you are heading to Leh, where you can find the fuel as well. So,
overall you can ignore Upshi and head straight to Leh even if gets late.
Leh | Altitude: 3500 Mtrs
Leh, the dream of reaching Ladakh is finally true and if you love this place then the excitement to reach Leh
will refresh each of your body part even after a 14-15 hours of strolling journey. Its better that you give some
days to local Leh sightseeing and feel the culture, people, traditions and magical aura of Leh Ladakh. Main
market and Changspa road really rocks, so if you like lively environment then try to get a hotel as close to
them as possible. Next day, along with local sightseeing you can also arrange the Inner Line Permits for other
destinations you are planning to visit in Leh Ladakh. If you need more details on Inner Line Permits of Leh
Ladakh then read this article: Inner Line Permits for Leh Ladakh
4. Leh, Ladakh | Local Sightseeing and Travel Guide
After a long time, coming back to completing the comprehensive Travel Guide for Leh Ladakh, here in this
article I will introduce you about the places to see around Leh town or in other words local sightseeing around
Leh town. It is almost inevitable (at least for people flying directly to Leh) to skip the local sightseeing of Leh
town, so it becomes really important to know what all places are there, either in Leh or nearby Leh town so
that you can spend a day or two easily without getting bored and utilize them effectively.
The Khar Leh Palace, Tsemo Castle, Namgyal Gompa
The Khar is the so called landmark of Leh almost since 17th century. Being in Leh and missing a sight of this
mega structure (almost and comparatively), seems something has horribly gone wrong with your planning or
you were somewhere else in Ladakh but not in Leh It houses Leh Palace, Tsemo Castle and Namgyal
Gompa on the same hills which houses this complex. The museum houses collection of ornaments, jewellery,
thangkas and paintings about 450 year old but still look as new as it can
Shanti Stupa
Built on a hilltop in Changspa region of Leh at an altitude of about 14K feet (4267 Mtrs), Shanti Stupa was
built in 1991 and is considered to be the most favorite tourist destination in/around Leh. The visit to Shanti
Stupa would greet you with wide panoramic view of entire Leh town in foreground and with breath-taking
landscapes in the background. You can reach it either through a drivable road all the way almost to top or you
can choose to ascend about 500-600 stairs, which I will not advice if you are just landed a day or two back.
After 7-8 day, you may give a try to fatigue using those stairs otherwise avoid them to let your body
acclimatize properly.
Hall of Fame
Worth a visit for every Indian to get a feeling of undue respect and salute the spirit of heroes of the Kargil War,
especially if you have not been to Kargil War Memorial on Srinagar Leh Highway. On the other section, you
can see and get an idea of various things that forms the rough life of our brave soldiers at Siachen viz. the
shoes used by soldiers, the food they eat and how they heat them using Hexamycin tablets etc. You will walk
out of with a different feeling if you really respect those brave souls, a feeling that can help you co-relate their
rough life with yours which we keep cribbing over either some official matters or daily homely issues. Next
time you do that think of these soldiers posted here for us, to protect our mother land and think how they get
the strength to keep going in their lives My heart was full of emotions when I walked out first ever from
Kargil War Memorial
Leh Main Bazaar / Leh Main Market
Most attractive place of Leh is Leh main baazar where you can have finest of cuisines and even shop for
variety of accessories for your mother/sister/wifey/girl friend(s) or woollens for yourself and family or contact
some travel agents for money exchange or planning your tours/treks etc. In fact this is the only place where
you will find most of the hustle bustle of life in Leh Ladakh and may be the most busiest part of Ladakh
Sankar Gompa / Monastery
It is about an easy half-hour walk from Leh towards the road leading to Khardung La pass. It is well lit in
evening and considering the fact that visiting hours are only limited to morning and evening, I will say going in
there for a short walk in evening is not at all a bad idea
Zorawar Fort
If you happen to have some interest in history and ancient culture, then you can visit Zorawar fort which is
about 30-40 mins walk/hike from Leh main market and jeepable too if you are not interested in hiking. General
Zorawar Singh owned this fort and is remembered here for struggle with Chinese. Europeans even termed
him little Napolean of India.
Datun Sahib
Datun Sahib is a Meswak tree that is located close to Leh Palace or just behind the Jama Masjid in the Leh
Main Baazar and holds quite religious significance for the whole Leh Ladakh region. It is said to be the first
ever tree planted by Guru Nanak ji, who blessed the town by planting it.
Sindhu Ghaat
A peaceful place where you can enjoy the river banks of Indus and relax amidst beautiful surroundings. The
music of river just relaxes all the nerves you get after reaching this place. If you want to spend a lazing
afternoon, go and be there at Sindhu ghaat and just relax
Spituk Monastery
About 8 KMs from Leh, at an altitude of 3300 Mtrs was built way back in 11th century. The monastery houses
about 100 monks and a giant statue of Kali which is unveiled at annual Gustor Festival held from the 27th to
29th day in the eleventh month of the Tibetan calendar.
Phyang Monastery
About 16 KMs west of Leh towards Srinagar was built back in 15th century. It houses a 900 year old museum
which has an extensive collection of idols including a number of fine Kashmiri bronzes probably dating to the
14th century, thangkas, Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian firearms and weapons. The Gang-Sngon Tsedup
Festival is held annually from 17th day to 19th day of the first month of the Tibetan calendar. On the 2nd and
3rd day of the 6th month of the Tibetan calendar Phyang serves as a venue for sacred dances.
Sham Valley Tour
West of Leh towards Srinagar on Srinagar Leh Highway, Sham Valley tour includes a day trip to Sham
Valley that consists of (in order from Leh) Gurdwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Zanskar and Indus River
Confluence at Nimmu, Ruins of Basgo Palace and Basgo Plains, Alchi Monastery and Likir Monastery. I will
say it is a must do trip for anyone visiting Leh Ladakh.
Monastery Tour
East of Leh towards Manali on Manali Leh Highway, Monastery tour includes a day trip to Shey Palace,
Thicksey Monastery, Hemis Monastery and Stakna Monastery. Depending upon the time in hand and your
interest, you can also choose to visit Matho Monastery and Stok Palace a bit ahead of Stakna Monastery and
complete the circuit while exiting towards Leh from Stok.
5. Sham Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide
Continuing on the building up the most comprehensive Travel Guide for Leh Ladakh, in this very article I will
try to explain the places of interest in Sham Valley Ladakh which includes Alchi, Likir, Basgo, Zanskar and
Indus Confluence at Nimmu, Magnetic Hills, Gurudwara Pather Sahib Gosh, a long list but they all are very
much close to each other and requires about 160 KMs of drive for the complete tour and back to Leh in a day.
So, lets look at all these places one by one in this complete Travel Guide of Sham Valley in Ladakh. You can
do the trip in any order like reaching the farthest point/place that is Alchi first and then visiting all while
backtracking or start from the first place which comes that is Gurudwara Pather Sahib and keep on visiting
one by one to explore all these places.
Gurudwara Pather Sahib
Gurudwara Pather Sahib about 22 KMs from Leh and at an altitude of 3600 Mtrs, was constructed in memory
of Guru Nanak Dev ji. It is right on the Srinagar Leh Highway and is believed that this sacred stone/boulder
refused to move in road construction operations even by huge machines/bulldozers etc. due to holy
blessings/touch of Guru Nana Dev ji. After offering the prayers, taking prasad you can move ahead to
Magnetic Hills as next stop on the tour of Sham Valley.
Magnetic Hills
Magnetic Hills, is located about 30 KMs from Leh at an altitude of 11000 Feet approximately at Srinagar Leh
Highway. Magnetics Hills, a phenomena that defies gravity. It is believed that the Magnetic Hills have
magnetic properties so strong to pull cars towards it. We put the car in the marked box and placed it in neutral
gear and voila!! the car started climbing. People say it is nothing but an optical illusion, we could not judge it
because the car was actually going upwards in the direction of Magnetic hills. May be a ball will be useful to
judge the situation. If the ball also goes towards the hills then certainly there is nothing but an illusion that
projects a descending road as ascending road
Well, you can read more at the wiki link here which call it as Gravity Hill and states The slope of gravity hills is
an optical illusion, although sites are often accompanied by claims that magnetic or even supernatural forces
are at work. The most important factor contributing to the illusion is a completely or mostly obstructed horizon;
without a horizon, judging the slope of a surface is difficult as a reliable reference is missing.
Confluence of Zanskar and Indus Rivers + Chilling
As you move ahead from Magnetic Hills, just before Nimmu Village, there comes a famous confluence of two
rivers Indus River coming from Tibet (left) and Zanskar River coming from Zanskar Valley (right). Zanskar
River is known for its famous Chadar Trek. Chadar Trek is done in peak winters when the Zanskar river
freezes and people trek over it to reach Padum Village in Zanskar Valley from Leh because of heavy snowfall.
Now, there is a tourist spot that has been created along the shores of the confluence where you can spend
some relaxing time along the two rivers.
There is a beautiful road that runs just along Zanskar River which you can ride upto Chilling Village, if you
have some time and loves riding lonely and peaceful road. Chilling is about 25 odd KMs from the Confluence
and a nice place to visit, plus you will have ample of spots where you can lay aside river shore and feel the
raw nature all for yourself. Generally, a lot of people do rafting in Zanskar river from Chilling to Nimmu. There
is also a road which is under construction that will eventually lead to Padum Village from chilling running along
Zanskar river. Once the road will complete it will render full year connectivity of Zanskar Valley to Leh
Ladakh and the Chadar trek might get obsolete in such a case.
When you head towards Basgo, on the way you can also see the longest Mani Wall (about 600 Mtrs) just at
the exit of Nimmu Village.
Basgo Palace
Basgo Palace rather ruins of Basgo Palace, is about 40 KMs from Leh and is approximately 500 years old,
built for Namgyal rulers. Basgo Palace now houses a monastery as well and is a nice place to visit. Some
shots of movie Dil Se was also shot here. As you will go towards Likir diversion from Basgo Palace, there
comes a stretch straight as an arrow, which looks beautiful and many advertisements have been shot around
this place. We also could not stop us and decided to shoot some pictures and enjoy the place. It was fultoo
fun with running around, sitting on road, lying on it and what not ;) I got some amazing shots of the trip at
this place.
Likir Monastery
It is time to head to Likir Monastery. As you go Move towards Sasapol, about 10 KMs before you will see a
diversion towards right going to Likir monastery. About 52 KMs from Leh, Likir Monastery was built in 11th
century and was again re-built in 18th century and houses a 25 feet Lord gold covered Buddha Statue. It is a
bit tough to climb the stairs with un-acclimatized body for me :). Views from the terrace are every penny worth
the effort. You will be amused to see the models created with butter which do not melt. Locales say those who
have created it had powers in their hands that is why these models does not melt. Amazing Art!! Time to leave
towards Alchi Monastery.
Alchi Monastery
As you come back to Srinagar Leh Highway from Likir Monastery, you need to take right and go towards
Sasapol about 10-12 KMs ahead. At Sasapol, there comes a bridge named by Alchi bridge from where you
take left and goes towards Alchi village. About 65 KMs from west of Leh and about 3100 Mtrs of altitude, Alchi
Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries of Leh and have monuments and scriptures dated as old as 10th
century. You can buy a bottle of oil and light to be offered in the monastery and headed down to monastery
which is so calm and peaceful. The time spent will bring you more close to Buddhism if you are into it and
sense of peace it offers to ones soul, remarkable!! You can walk down to Indus River as well from the back of
the monastery and spend some time along the river. There are camps Sumtseg Camps run by Alchi
monastery where you can stay as well. A lot of people flying directly to Leh, prefer staying at Alchi to get their
body acclimatized and then move to Leh next day while going through the Sham Valley tour.
6. Nubra Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide
Nubra Valley is one of the MUST VISIT places in Ladakh especially if you are visiting for the first time. Nubra
Valley is among the sub-districts in Ladakh, located in North East side having Diskit Village as the its main
headquarters. Diskit is situated about 120 odd KMs from Leh town which is the main capital of Ladakh district.
The Shyok river, a tributary of Indus river, meets the Nubra or Siachen river to form a large valley that
separates the Ladakh and Karakorum Ranges. The ultra wide landscapes, humongous mountain faces, lovely
trails, wide variety of colors and musical Shyok river flowing midst the valley will take your breath away at first
sight. Since, it is near to the Line of Actual Control, one need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Nubra Valley.
The major attraction of a trip to Nubra Valley is going over the so called or hyped, highest motorable road,
Khardung La Pass. Being at lower altitude than Leh at an average altitude of 10000 Feet or 3048 Mtrs, Nubra
Valley is an ideal place to fit into the acclimatization schedule of your Ladakh trip once you reach Leh.
Climbing to very high altitude of Khardung La from Leh and then sleeping at low altitude of Nubra Valley
DOES HELP tremendously in acclimatization. Thus, apart from the magnificent vistas on offer, Nubra Valley
has a hidden advantage with respect to acclimatization as well which will eventually help your trip be more
successful. No wonder, if you are missing on this part of Ladakh on your trip, you are almost missing out on
the heart of the Ladakh trip.
Location: Diskit, the main headquarters in Nubra Valley is located about 120 KMs from Leh town of Ladakh
district.
Altitude: Nubra Valley has an average altitude of about 10000 Feet or 3048 Mtrs.
a) Season for Travelling to Nubra Valley Ladakh
In January to March, Nubra Valley remains mostly in cold conditions with very few options to stay open to
welcome guests. In April types, some guest houses starts to open up but food does remain an issue at many
places. You have to rely on home stay options and home cooked food only. You can see apricot flowers
blooming all over Nubra Valley in April. Then comes May, June, July and August which is the peak tourist
season and you can find mostly all accommodation options open with full staff and support.
Come September and early October, the tourists starts to reside as cold starts to set in and accommodation
starts to pack up too. According to me, this is by far the best time to visit Nubra Valley to see full glory of
burning colors of Ladakh with clouds hovering like candies in the blue sky. The colors are purely magical at
this time of the year and with less number of tourist comparatively, you get better deals at hotels and you
enjoy more. After second week of October up to December, mostly all the accommodation options packs up
except the small guest houses or home stays and some hotels. However, the situation of accommodation
options in Nubra Valley in winters as well is not that bad as compared to Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri lakes,
where only few home stays run with very basic facilities.
b) How to Reach Nubra Valley Ladakh
Route from Leh to Nubra Valley
Below is the most general route to Nubra Valley from Leh that most people usually follow. You can reach in
about 5 6 Hrs depending upon the number of break you take in between and of course at Khardung La. Do
try to ensure you do not stay more than 15 minutes at Khardung La as you will start to get hit with AMS
because body cannot cope up with that high altitude, so quickly in the trip, for that long. Anyways, the route to
Nubra Valley from Leh along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Leh Khardung La Pass (40 KMs) Khardung Village (34 KMs) Khalsar (23 KMs) Diskit (19 KMs) = 116
KMs
You can cover Diskit & Hunder on the first day to Nubra Valley from Leh irrespective of the fact where you are
staying between these two places. Then, you can plan to cover Sumur & Panamik while you are returning
from Nubra Valley. So, if you are one of those who prefer relaxing vacation and do not want to rush through
places then, I will suggest make a three day trip to Nubra Valley. Of course, I assume your body has been
acclimatized properly by staying for couple of nights in Leh before attempting to climb Khardung La pass and
come over to Nubra Valley. If you are short on time then you can just make a two day trip covering Diskit,
Hunder, Sumur and Panamik on the flow of travel to and from Leh.
Do not forget to refill petrol/diesel at Leh petrol pump as there used to be a fuel pump at Diskit but never seen
that in working conditions. So, better tank up at Leh only before making a dash out to Nubra Valley.
Preferred Vehicles: The higher ground clearance vehicles are preferable and 44 ones generally not required.
However, quite a few people do it in hatchbacks and sedans as well which depends upon your skills to drive
and road conditions at the time of travel.
c) Suggested Itinerary for Nubra Valley Ladakh
Generally, at least one night stay is preferable to truly witness the mesmerizing beauty of Nubra Valley. Of
course, one night stay will help you ride the Bacterian Camels over Sand Dunes of Hunder around sunrise
and sunset (ie cooler conditions) that increase the charm of your vacation to further extent. Most people,
generally do:
Day 1 | Leh Khardung La Diskit Hunder
Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit

On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel
safari
Day 2 | Hunder / Diskit Sumur Panamik Sumur Khardung La Leh
Sumur has a Samstanling monastery to check out nearby

Panamik has hot water springs and a sacred Yarab Tso lake
Overnight at Leh
You can add a day to your schedule for a trip to Nubra Valley and go ahead to visit Turtuk, about 95 KMs from
Diskit. Turtuk has been opened recently in 2010 for domestic tourists and in 2013 for foreign tourists. It is an
amazing place, quite different from the rest of the landscape in Nubra Valley and have a different affinity of
culture too.
d) Places to visit in Nubra Valley Ladakh
You can visit following places in Nubra Valley and maybe I will try to explain them in detail in some other
article just to maintain the brevity of this article.
Diskit: Diskit has a monastery which is largest and oldest Buddhist monastery in Nubra Valley and houses
a 106 feet tall Maitrey Buddha statue. There is Lachung Temple as well which is quite close to monastery.
Hunder: Hunder is famous for its sand dunes and double humped bacterian camel safari.
Sumur: Somewhere between Sumur and Kyagar, you can visit Samstanling monastery.
Panamik: It has hot water springs and a sacred Yarab Tso lake nearby the entrance of the village.
Turtuk: Recently opened for tourists in 2010, Turtuk offers a much different landscape and cultural
orientation than rest of the Nubra Valley. You can see apricot trees loaded around the entire village with
views closer to Karakorum range. If you have time, a MUST VISIT place in Nubra Valley.
e) Other Important Information for Nubra Valley

Medical Facilities in Nubra Valley Ladakh: Diskit Village which is the headquarters of Nubra Valley has a
hospital where you will be able to get basic medical aid and treatment.
Food Joints near Nubra Valley Ladakh: Most of the time you will be eating out in Hotels or Camps or Guest
Houses or Home stays you will be staying. However, there are dhabhas or eating joints at Khalsar and
Khardung villages where people generally stop for lunch while on the way to or from Leh.
Phone Signals at Nubra Valley Ladakh: BSNL Postpaid Connection does work like a charm in most parts of
Nubra Valley with some loss of signal at few places though.
Petrol Pumps near Nubra Valley Ladakh: Do not forget to refill petrol/diesel at Leh petrol pump as there
used to be a fuel pump at Diskit but never seen that in working conditions. So, better tank up at Leh only
before making a dash out to Nubra Valley.
ATMs near Nubra Valley Ladakh: You will not find any ATMs in Nubra Valley and hence, it is always better
to carry cash from Leh (the only place where you find ATM in Ladakh) itself.
7. Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide
Pangong Tso lake in Changthang region of Ladakh has emerged as one of the most wanted places to visit
among domestic tourists in recent times especially after the Bollywood blockbuster "3 idiots". Now, in India
one can see a lot more movies and advertisements being shot around this mesmerizing lake. This salt water,
beautiful ocean like lake is about 5 KM wide at its broadest point and about 134 KM long with about 60% of
the length extending into Tibet. During winters the lake freezes completely, which itself is a great experience
to witness if you have seen the other colors of the lake. Being very near to the Line of Actual Control, one
need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Pangong Tso.
The beautiful multi shades of blue color offered by this lake along with a picturesque landscape around gives
this place an extremely romantic feel as shown in Bollywood film songs. However, sitting behind the TV/LCD it
looks so but in actual reality the place is extremely harsh and difficult to survive especially in winters. There is
only one cemented accommodation available around the lake and the facilities like electricity, medical aid, hot
running water, western toilets etc. are rare to find. The lack of oxygen makes survival difficult if your body is
not properly acclimatized to its high altitude and hence, one need to plan his/her journey extremely carefully to
make it acute mountain sickness free vacation.
Location: Pangong Tso lake is located about 170 KMs from Leh town of Ladakh district.
Altitude: Pangong Tso lake is one of the high altitudes lakes of India at a staggering altitude of 4350 Meters or
14270 Feet.
a) Season for Travelling to Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh
In January to March, Pangong Tso remains mostly frozen, extremely cold conditions with no options to stay
around the lake. In April types, it starts to melt and starts transforming into the beautiful multi shades of blue
colors off the shores. Then May, June, July and August is the peak tourist season and they generally flock the
shores of the Pangong Tso lake. In this summer period, a large number of birds can also be seen around the
lake including the most common Bar-headed goose and Brahmini ducks.
tents starts to pack up. According to me, this is by far the best time to visit Pangong Tso to see full glory of
beautiful shades of blue color. The colors are purely magical at this time of the year and with less number of
tourist comparatively, you get better deals and enjoy more. After second week of October up to December, all
the accommodation packs up and the only nearest place you can stay is either in some home stay with basic
facilities to fight the harsh cold or in some guest house at Tangste with more better facilities to fight the cold. If
sun is shining and you do not mind the hard cold winters, then also you can make a day trip to Pangong Tso
from Tangste to see magical shades of blue color at this lake.
b) How to Reach Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh
Route from Leh to Pangong Tso Lake
This is the general route to Pangong Tso that most people take to visit this ever beautiful lake in Ladakh. You
can reach in about 5 6 Hrs depending upon the number of break you take in between. The route along with
distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Leh Karu (36 KMs) Sakti (10 KMs) Chang La (34 KMs) Durbuk (32 KMs) Tangste (9 KMs) Lukung
(34 KMs) Spangmik (16 KMs) = 171 KMs
You can cover Thicksey, Hemis and Shey monasteries while going through this route. This route provides the
best road conditions among all other routes. So, if you are one of those who prefer relaxing vacation and do
not want to rush through places then, I will suggest make a two day trip to Pangong Tso lake via this route
from Leh. Of course, I assume your body has been acclimatized properly by staying for couple of nights in Leh
and spending a night or two in Nubra Valley before attempting to sleep near Pangong Tso. If you are short on
time then you should make a day trip to Pangong Tso via this route only, being best in road conditions, so
fastest among all.
Route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso Lake
Many of the domestic tourists are short on leaves and also do not want to miss the opportunity of
sunrise/sunset at Pangong Tso by making a day trip. Hence, when they visit Nubra Valley (always
recommended for better acclimatization) first most of them seek some route from Nubra Valley to Pangong
Tso directly without going back to Leh. For all such people, there exist two routes from Nubra Valley to
Pangong Tso:
Nubra Valley Wari La Pangong Tso
This route goes via mighty Wari La pass, one of the most remotest passes of the Ladakh region and takes
about 11-12 Hrs again depending upon number of interim breaks you take. The route is long and rough and
hence require you to leave very early from Nubra Valley, so that you reach Pangong Tso (Lukung or
Spangmik) before sun goes down. If you are planning via Wari La route then keep confirming from the BRO
posts that come by to check the road conditions ahead. It is extremely remote region and you will hardly find
any tourist or vehicle going past by you. Hence, in case required, help would be long to find. You need to
mention Wari La on your permit form in order to undertake this route. The route along with distance between
the subsequent places is as follows:
Diskit Khalsar (19 KMs) Agham (31 KMs) Tangyar (11 KMs) Wari La (28 KMs) Tathok (25 KMs)
Sakti (4 KMs) Chang La (34 KMs) Durbuk (32 KMs) Tangste (9 KMs) Lukung (34 KMs) Spangmik
(16 KMs) = 243 KMs
Do not attempt this route in early season because, first it might not be open being low on priority for BRO and
second roads are not stabilized in early season. So, being remote again help might be hard to find. You also
need to carry spare fuel from Leh to cover about 425 475 KMs because many a times the petrol/diesel is not
available at Diskit, Nubra Valley petrol pump and you will be covering Leh Nubra Valley Wari La
Pangong Tso Leh without any other petrol pump.
Nubra Valley Shyok Village Pangong Tso
This route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso goes via Shyok Village and is on the cards to be opened in the
year 2012. It is much shorter than the Wari La route, takes about 6-7 hrs from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso
and hence will save more time and energy. But, again there are some nasty landslide prone stretches on this
route which BRO has found hard to tackle and stabilize a road through it. In the year 2010, few of the people
did make it through this route but around flash floods time the whole route was washed-off again. As per BRO,
they might throw open this route via Shyok village in this year that is 2012 and it will be a great relief for the
tourists, at least having less time on hands. You need to mention Shyok Village on your permit form in order to
undertake this route. The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Diskit Khalsar (19 KMs) Agham (31 KMs) Shyok Village (48 KMs) Durbuk (18 KMs) Tangste (9 KMs)
Lukung (34 KMs) Spangmik (16 KMs) = 175 KMs
You also need to carry spare fuel from Leh to cover 350 400 KMs because many a times the petrol/diesel is
not available at Diskit, Nubra Valley petrol pump and you will be covering Leh Nubra Valley Wari La
Route from Tso Moriri Lake to Pangong Tso Lake
There exist a route between Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso as well and in most general cases, you will always
be doing it from other way around that is from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri because you can exit Ladakh from
Tso Moriri towards Manali Leh Highway after visiting Pangong Tso without coming back to Leh and
secondly, Tso Moriri is higher than Pangong Tso so as per acclimatization schedule you must stay near
Pangong Tso before spending night at Tso Moriri. However, for the informational purposes you can go to
Pangong Tso from Tso Moriri directly via the remote and ever beautiful Changthang region. The drive
between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri is one of the most beautiful drives in whole Ladakh region. You need to
mention all the places mentioned in the route below on your permit form in order to undertake this route. The
route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Tso Moriri (Korzok) Sumdo (53 KMs) Mahe (10 KMs) Nyoma (25 KMs) Loma (22 KMs) Tsaga
Village (23 KMs) Tsaga La (20 KMs) Chusul (33 KMs) Kakstet (24 KMs) Merak (4 KMs) Man (12
KMs) Spangmik (9 KMs) = 235 KMs
Though highly unlikely but if at all you are doing in this order then you also need to carry spare fuel from
Leh/Upshi/Karu to cover about 600 700 KMs because you will be covering Leh -Tso Moriri Nyoma Loma
Preferred Vehicles: The higher ground clearance vehicles are preferable and 44 ones would definitely be
helpful especially between Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso as well as Nubra Valley Shyok Village Pangong
Tso route. However, quite a few people do it in hatchbacks and sedans as well which depends upon your
skills to drive and road conditions.
c) Suggested Itinerary for Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh
Generally, at least one night stay is preferable to truly witness the mesmerizing beauty of this blue colored salt
water lake. Of course, one night stay will help you watch sunrise and sunset over the picturesque landscape
and increase the charm of your vacation to great extent. Most people, generally do:
Day 1 | Leh Hemis Monastery Pangong Tso Lake
Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
Day 2 | Pangong Tso Lake Thicksey Monastery Shey Palace Leh
Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh

Overnight at Leh
d) Other Important Information for Pangong Tso

Medical Facilities near Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh: The nearest basic medical health center is at Tangste
Village about 50 KMs from Spangmik village and 34 KMs from Lukung village. You can get basic first aid
including Oxygen doses at some of the tents/camps, I guess.
Food Joints near Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh: Being a remote place, you will either be eating in the home
stay at Spangmik Village or at the camps/tents you might be staying overnight.
Phone Signals at Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh: You will not find any phone or mobile signals at Pangong Tso
lake.
Petrol Pumps near Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh: Nearest Petrol Pump is at Karu about 135 KMs from
Pangong Tso and comes on the way to Pangong Tso from Leh. I will suggest that you top-up the fuel from
Leh itself and then drive/ride up to Pangong Tso.
ATMs near Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh: You will not find any ATMs near Pangong Tso lake and hence, it is
always better to carry cash from Leh (the only place where you find ATM in Ladakh) itself.
8. Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide
Tso Moriri lake in Changthang region of Ladakh is one of the most beautiful, calm and sacred (for ladakhis)
high altitude lakes in India. In fact, it is the largest high altitude lake in India that is entirely in Indian Territory.
This beautiful blue pallet lake is about 7 KM wide at its broadest point and about 19 KM long. Being part of the
wetland reserve under Ramsar site, it is actual known as Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve and one
cannot pitch any tents or construct anything near the banks of the lake. It is the highest Ramsar site in the
world. A large number of flora and fauna is found in the region. Since, it is very near to the Line of Actual
Control, one need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Tso Moriri.
The beautiful multi shades of blue color offered by this lake along with a picturesque landscape around gives
this place an extremely romantic feel and breathtaking feel. However, in actual reality the place is extremely
harsh and difficult to survive especially in winters. There is only one cemented accommodation available
around the lake and the facilities like electricity, medical aid, hot running water, western toilets etc. are rare to
find. The lack of oxygen makes survival difficult if your body is not properly acclimatized to its high altitude and
hence, one need to plan his/her journey extremely carefully to make it acute mountain sickness free vacation.
Location: Tso Moriri lake is located about 240 KMs from Leh town of Ladakh district.
Altitude: Tso Moriri lake is one of the high altitudes lakes of India at a staggering altitude of 4595 Meters or
15075 Feet, yes higher than Pangong Tso.
a) Season for Travelling to Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh
In January to March, Tso Moriri remains mostly frozen, extremely cold conditions with no options to stay
around the lake. In April types, it starts to melt and starts transforming into the beautiful multi shades of blue
colors off the shores. Then May, June, July and August is the peak tourist season but as compared to
Pangong Tso it gets less number of tourist.
tents starts to pack up nearing to lake. According to me, this is by far the best time to visit Tso Moriri to see full
glory of beautiful shades of blue color. The colors are purely magical at this time of the year and with less
number of tourist comparatively, you get better deals and enjoy more. After second week of October up to
December, all the accommodation packs up and the only nearest place you can stay is either in some home
stay type guest house at Korzok village or at Chumathang with basic facilities to fight the harsh cold.
Chumathang is at much lower in altitude and one can stay there if visiting at the onset or in winters.
b) How to Reach Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh
Route from Leh to Tso Moriri Lake
This is the general route to Tso Moriri that most people take to visit this ever beautiful lake in Ladakh. You can
reach in about 6 7 Hrs depending upon the number of break you take in between. The route along with
distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Leh Karu (36 KMs) Upshi (13 KMs) Kumdok (19 KMs) Kere (53 KMs) Chumathang (34 KMs) Mahe
(22 KMs) Sumdo (10 KMs) Korzok or Tso Moriri(53 KMs) = 240 KMs
You can cover Thicksey, Hemis and Shey monasteries while going through this route, if you havent covered
them earlier while going to Pangong Tso. This route provides the best road conditions among all other routes.
So, if you are one of those who prefer relaxing vacation and do not want to rush through places then, I will
suggest make a two day trip to Tso Moriri lake via this route from Leh. Of course, I assume your body has
been acclimatized properly by staying for couple of nights in Leh and spending a night or two in Nubra Valley
as well before attempting to sleep near Tso Moriri or Korzok. If you are short on time then you can also exit
towards Manali via Manali Leh Highway from Tso Moriri via this route only but you need to ensure you have
enough fuel to cover about 550 KMs without any fuel pump.
Route from Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake
There exist a direct and an indirect route between Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso as well and in most general
cases, you will always be doing it from direct route of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri because you can exit Ladakh
from Tso Moriri towards Manali Leh Highway after visiting Tso Moriri without coming back towards Leh and
secondly, Tso Moriri is higher than Pangong Tso so as per acclimatization schedule you should stay near
Pangong Tso before spending night at Tso Moriri.
Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake via Changthang (Merak Chusul Nyoma)
You can go to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso directly via the remote and ever beautiful Changthang region.
The drive between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri is one of the most beautiful drives in whole Ladakh region.
Foreigners are not allowed to go beyond Man Merak Villages as permits are not issued to them for this
route. Hence, they need to follow the indirect, slightly longer route to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. You need
to mention all the places mentioned in the route below on your permit form in order to undertake this route.
The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Spangmik (Pangong Tso) Man (9 KMs) Merak (12 KMs) Kakstet (4 KMs) Chusul (24 KMs) Tsaga La
(33 KMs) Tsaga Village (20 KMs) Loma (23 KMs) Nyoma (22 KMs) Mahe (25 KMs) Sumdo (10 KMs)
Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs
You need to make sure you carry fuel for about 550 600 KMs because you will be covering Leh Pangong
Tso Nyoma Loma Tso Moriri Leh without any other petrol pump. And if you want to exit Ladakh
through Manali Leh Highway from Tso Moriri then also carry petrol/diesel for about 650 700 KMs as the
next petrol pump will be available at Tandi. Otherwise, you need to come back to Karu or Upshi, refill and
move back again towards Manali Leh Highway.
Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake via Chumathang
The indirect route that goes via Chumathang is the longer one, where you need to go all the way back from
Pangong Tso to Leh upto Karu and from there you can take left towards Upshi Chumathang Korzok to
reach Tso Moriri. This route can be followed by foreign tourists who are not allowed the permit for Changthang
(Man Merak Chusul etc) region, if they do not want to go back to Leh. But, IMO one must go back to Leh
from Pangong Tso, refresh themselves and start towards Tso Moriri next morning instead of very long day via
Chumathang. You need to mention both Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso on your permit form in order to
undertake this route. The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:
Spangmik Lukung (16 KMs) Tangtse (34 KMs) Durbuk (9 KMs) Chang La (32 KMs) Sakti (34 KMs)
Karu (10 KMs) Upshi (13 KMs) Kumdok (19 KMs) Kere (53 KMs) Chumathang (34 KMs) Mahe (22
KMs) Sumdo (10 KMs) Korzok or Tso Moriri(53 KMs) = 339 KMs
Do not forget to refill petrol/diesel at Karu or Upshi petrol pump and if you want to exit Ladakh through Manali
Leh Highway then also carry petrol/diesel for about 500 550 KMs as the next petrol pump will be available
at Tandi. Otherwise, you need to come back to Karu or Upshi, refill and move back again towards Manali
Leh Highway.
Preferred Vehicles: The higher ground clearance vehicles are preferable and 44 ones would definitely be
helpful especially between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri via Man Merak Chusul Nyoma (Changthang)
route. However, for general route via Chumathang, quite a few people do it in hatchbacks and sedans as well
which depends upon your skills to drive and road conditions at the time of travel.
c) Suggested Itinerary for Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh
Generally, at least one night stay is preferable to truly witness the mesmerizing beauty of this blue colored salt
water lake. Of course, one night stay will help you watch sunrise and sunset over the picturesque landscape
and increase the charm of your vacation to great extent. Most people, generally do:
Day 1 | Leh Tso Moriri via Chumathang
Cover Korzok Monastery

Overnight at Tso Moriri or Korzok
Day 2 | Tso Moriri Tso Kar Debring Taglang La Rumste Upshi Karu Leh
Cover Tso Kar Lake and Taglang La (some part of Manali Leh Highway)
Overnight at Leh
d) Other Important Information for Tso Moriri Lake
Accommodation Options at Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: You cannot find accommodation at Tso Moriri lake on
the banks because it is restricted to pitch the camps there being a wetland reserve and sanctuary for
migratory birds. You can pitch the tents near the other tented colonies pitched just before Korzok village or
find an accommodation in Korzok village. Both ways you will definitely have a clear and broad view of the 24
KM in length, 6 KM in width this magnificent blue colored high altitude lake Tso Moriri (Tso Moriri Wetland
Conservation Reserve)
Medical Facilities near Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: The nearest basic medical health center may be available at
Korzok Village though I am not that sure about it. You can get basic first aid including Oxygen doses at some
of the tents/camps, I guess.
Food Joints near Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: Being a remote place, you will either be eating in the home stay
at Korzok Village or at the camps/tents near Korzok in which you might be staying overnight.
Phone Signals at Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: You will not find any phone or mobile signals at Tso Moriri lake.
Petrol Pumps near Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: Nearest Petrol Pump is at Karu (about 204 KMs) from Tso
Moriri and comes on the way to Tso Moriri from Leh. I will suggest that you top-up the fuel from Leh itself and
then drive/ride up to Tso Moriri.
ATMs near Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh: You will not find any ATMs near Tso Moriri lake and hence, it is always
better to carry cash from Leh (the only place where you find ATM in Ladakh) itself.
9. Fuel Availability In Leh Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips
Tourism in Ladakh has risen in the last few years and many people prefer to self drive to Leh Ladakh for
satisfying their hunger for adventure There are many tourist places in Leh Ladakh like Nubra Valley,
Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Sham Valley etc and most of them are connected via Leh town except the
adventurous connecting routes which exist between them. However, it always a good idea to plan your
Ladakh journey well enough so that you do not come with a nightmare experience from heaven, which I found
many people had this time when I was present in Ladakh. And, one of the key areas or things is to know
about road conditions that you might expect along with the fuel stations or availability of fuel within Ladakh or
in roads to Ladakh like Manali Leh Highway and Srinagar Leh Highway, once you reach Ladakh and drive
on your own. I know there are many great articles or maps available over the Internet and even in Ladakh
section of my blog but I will just try to add two more OK types article in the list :)
Petrol/Diesel Pumps or Fuel Availability in Ladakh
Without fuel (petrol or diesel) one cannot drive or ride and we all have limited capacity fuel tank in our
vehicles. The mileage of the vehicles also decrease in harsh terrain like Ladakh where hills are not the only
thing that results low fuel efficiency but rough or non-existent roads, rarefied oxygen (just guessing on this
one) also joins the party. Hence, one thing that you should always keep in mind when self riding or driving
within Leh Ladakh is that petrol or diesel is available only in Leh town (guess 2 petrol pumps are in/around
Leh) and one petrol pump is present in Karu town which is about 45 KMs from Leh on Manali Leh Highway.
There is one petrol pump available in Nubra Valleys Diskit town as well but that rarely is functional and
cannot be relied upon. Sometimes, even the fuel is not available at Leh petrol pumps as well for first half of
the day. Now, what is the problem that lies behind it?
The biggest problem is that, most of the tourist destinations within Ladakh are not near to Leh rather about
~150+ KMs away from Leh and a return journey will make them about ~300 KMs. You will be able to easily
get away with it, if you are coming back to Leh every time you go to one or other destinations because you
can get your vehicle refuelled and ~300 KMs trips can be managed in most bikes and car very easily. The
problem is when some of us do not want to come back to Leh rather do circuits like, Leh Nubra Valley
Pangong Tso Leh or Leh Pangong Tso Tso Moriri Leh or Leh Nubra Valley Pangong Tso Tso
Moriri Leh etc. Such routes are not possible to be done without carrying spare fuel (petrol/diesel) along with
tankful of fuel in the vehicle.
Listed below are some of the common long routes in Ladakh along with the approximate distances that you
will be covering on them without any fuel (petrol/diesel) pumps:
Leh Nubra Valley Pangong Tso Leh via Wari La = 600 650 KMs
Leh Pangong Tso Tso Moriri Leh via Hanle = 650 700 KMs
Leh Nubra Valley Pangong Tso Tso Moriri Leh = 900 950 KMs
Leh Tso Moriri Tso Kar Sarchu Keylong Manali = 550 KMs
Leh Karu Rumtse Taglang La Sarchu Keylong Tandi Manali = 350 400 KMs
Leh Pangong Tso Tso Moriri Tso Kar Sarchu Keylong Tandi Manali = 900 950 KMs
Hence, you can keep these routes in mind and plan to carry spare fuel with you based on the distance you will
be travelling, if required. [highlight]In case you may run out of fuel on any of these routes,[/highlight] you can
also try villages on these routes (especially Tangste, Chumathang, Khalsar, Deskit, Hanle, Pang etc.) where
you may find the black diesel/petrol sold by the villagers, (of course, highly likely, with quality compromised)
which can be handy in such odd circumstances.
10. Routes and Road Conditions In Leh Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips
Tourism in Ladakh has risen in the last few years and many people prefer to self drive to Leh Ladakh for
satisfying their hunger for adventure There are many tourist places in Leh Ladakh like Nubra Valley,
Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Sham Valley etc. and most of them are connected via Leh town except the
adventurous connecting routes which exist between them. However, it always a good idea to plan your
Ladakh journey well enough so that you do not come with a nightmare experience from heaven, which I found
many people had, this time when I was present in Ladakh. And, one of the key areas or things is to know
about road conditions that you might expect along with the fuel stations or availability of fuel within Ladakh or
in roads to Ladakh like Manali Leh Highway and Srinagar Leh Highway, once you reach Ladakh and drive
on your own. I know there are many great articles or maps available over the Internet and even in Ladakh
section of my blog but I will just try to add two more OK types article in the list :)
I know road conditions keep changing but still I feel to share them with you all because knowing about such
road conditions is extremely critical and one can take critical decisions such as whether he/she requires to
take own car or not, if Sedans or Hatchbacks will be suitable to be driven or they need High Ground clearance
of SUVs or may be SUVs with 44 etc. Thus, if one knows the road conditions in advance, it might be really
helpful in deciding on such factors.
For each and every route sections elaborated below, I will try to suggest car types with difficulty level as Easy,
Manageable, Tough, Very Tough, Car Killer. Driving comfort is also taken into account while suggesting, so it
is not just the driving. But, PLEASE DO NOT take it literally especially in the cases of Sedans and
Hatchbacks. Even, if it is mentioned that route is manageable for Sedans and Hatchbacks, you still have to
drive with extreme caution and care.
Leh Local Sightseeing + Sham Valley
Most of the roads around Leh town as well as Sham Valley are good in conditions throughout the year barring
few sections where water keeps running through, thus damaging them. Only very few sections of these roads
are in bad conditions. Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu,
Gurudwara Pather Sahib and Leh Local Sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa,
Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Easy.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Easy.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Easy.
Leh Khardung La Nubra Valley Leh

The road conditions within Nubra Valley are very good but the ascent from South Pullu to Khardung La and
then descent towards North Pullu has major sections of the road in tatters. Now, in winters or early summers
like April and May, due to the presence of snow, it is extremely difficult to drive on this section (South Pullu
Khardung La North Pullu). Once, you are in Nubra Valley most of the roads are excellent.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Easy (Nubra Valley) but Tough (South Pullu Khardung La North Pullu), Very
Tough in early summers.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Easy (Nubra Valley) but Manageable (South Pullu Khardung La
North Pullu), Tough early summers.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Easy (Nubra Valley) but Manageable without 44 (South Pullu
Khardung La North Pullu), Manageable in early summers with 44.
Leh Karu Shakti Chang La Durbuk Tangste Pangong Tso (Lukung)

The road conditions towards Pangong Tso are mix of good (Leh Karu Shakti, Durbuk Tangste
Lukung), bad (Lukung Spangmik) and very bad (Shakti Chang La Durbuk). Roads from Leh upto Shakti
are decent in conditions but again the ascend from Shakti to Changla is something very treacherous and with
bad road conditions. Similarly, as you descend towards Durbuk from Changla most of the road is in bad
shape. From Lukung to Spangmik, there is no road but a dirt track.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Tough, at least the climb up/down for Chang La and Lukung to Spangmik but rest
is Manageable.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Manageable.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Manageable without 44.
Leh Upshi Chumathang Mahe Sumdo Kiagar Tso Tso Moriri (Korzok)
The road conditions towards Tso Moriri are mix of good and bad. Roads from Leh upto Mahe are decent in
conditions but once you cross Kiagar Tso ahead of Sumdo the road ends and the dirt track starts. From
Kiagar Tso upto Korzok Village, being dirt track, it is very treacherous. If it rains or in early summers when
snow is present around roads, many sections forms slush on them which is difficult to manage at times.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Mostly Manageable but Tough in early summers.

High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Mostly Easy.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Mostly Easy without 44.
Pangong Tso (Spangmik) Man Merak Chusul Tsaga Loma Nyoma Mahe Sumdo Kiagar
Tso Tso Moriri (Korzok)
Major part of this remote but most beautiful route of Ladakh in Changthang, runs on a dirt track due to
absence of any road. Lukung Spangmik Man Merak Chusul Tsaga does not have any road at all and
have some really bad sections where getting through with low ground clearance is very difficult, especially
before Chusul. Tsaga Loma Nyoma Mahe is freshly laid tarmac (as per April 2012) where it will be easy
to drive. Even the diversion road to Hanle from Loma is in very good condition barring few patches. For rest,
refer Tso Moriri route.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Mostly, Very Very Tough and may be Car Killer at some sections, Manageable
after Tsaga Village.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Manageable, Tough at some sections when slush and ice is
present on it.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Manageable, Tough without 44 but Manageable with 44.
Nubra Valley Agham Wari La Shakti Chang La Durbuk Tangste Pangong Tso (Lukung)
This one is mostly used by tourist interested to reach Pangong Tso directly from Nubra Valley. Major part of
the ascend and descend towards Wari La from Agham Village is tough and roads are mix of average and bad.
Second part about this route is that, you will very rarely spot a taxi or other vehicle, so in case of any
exigency, help will be very hard to find. Since, this route does not have much priority so you may most likely to
find it either closed or in extremely bad shape. For rest, refer Pangong Tso route.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Tough, at least the climb up/down for Wari La and then again to Changla. Very
Tough in early summers.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Manageable, Tough in early summers.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Manageable, Tough in early summers without 44.
Nubra Valley Agham Shyok Village Durbuk Tangste Pangong Tso (Lukung)
In future this route will be mostly used by tourists interested to reach Pangong Tso directly from Nubra Valley.
It has been three years since this route has been made through but has remained mostly closed so far due to
major landslides that happens on this route. Some of the sections between Agham and Shyok villages are
extremely difficult, very much landslide prone and will most likely get your heart in the mouth. This whole
stretch has variety of troubles to greet you water crossing (some nasty ones), loose rocks, sharp stones, big
rocks under water crossings or standing water etc. There are some sections especially before Shyok Village,
which might be very tough to climb even with High Ground clearance vehicles without 44. At one of the
section, we were moving and one person kept clearing stones falling from above
YOU MUST keep in mind that this route is rarely taken by anyone and even taxis from Leh refuse to take this
route. Govt. has given orders to keep this route open for this tourist season 2012 and onwards but being there
myself in April and seeing the roughest terrain, I seriously doubt that they would be able to keep this route
operational especially at the time of rains or when snow melts very fast making some nasty water crossings.
Anyone, in any vehicle should try to attempt this route only if other taxis are doing it so that you get some help
at least in case of any breakdown or if he/she is too, too adventurous to take on the challenges on this road
but sensibly. Vehicles with high Ground Clearance with 44 in them is only suggested on this route. Always
inquire about the road conditions either at Agham Village or Khalsar Village before attempting it from Nubra
Valley side and either at Shyok village or at a GREF hut that comes after Shyok village from Durbuk side.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Car Killer!!

High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Very Tough, may be Car Killer one when water flows heavily in
July, August.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Tough even with 44 at some sections.
Loma Hanle Charchaghan La Chumur Tso Moriri (Korzok)

This remote route of Ladakh in Changthang, runs on a dirt track due to absence of any road at all. It also has
some bad sections where getting through with low ground clearance vehicle is difficult. There is one VERY
nasty water crossing near Charchaghan La, I guess which is very difficult to cross especially post afternoon.
Loma to Hanle is in very good condition barring few patches.
Sedans/Hatchbacks = Very Tough.

High Ground Clearance SUVs (42) = Tough but manageable, Very Tough if snow/slush/ice is present
and in water crossings.
High Ground Clearance SUVs (44) = Tough but manageable without 44.
11. Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization
We all want to enjoy the lovely nature and breathtaking views of Himalayas. While going to Himalayas, many
of us take the high altitudes very lightly and always consider the brighter side of it i.e. majestic vistas :).
However, there is a darker side attached to the high altitudes as well. How many times have you been to high
altitudes and either you or people around you complained that shortness of breath, nausea, headaches or
vomiting etc? I am sure you must have encounter such uncommon situations while in the Himalayas
especially at the high altitudes like regions of Manali Leh Highway, Leh Ladakh, Rohtang Pass, Spiti
Valley in India to name a few. To be very frank, some people suffer mildly and some may not suffer
altogether; consider yourself very lucky in such a case. However, some persons suffer drastically and the
effects can be seriously ugly from them.
Illness or sickness on Himalayan trips is very common especially if you are directly flying or driving to a higher
altitude which almost certain the chances. Such Illness can spoil a much awaited relaxing holiday into
something ugly and in some cases may have severe consequences too. Higher you go directly, higher will be
the risks. Hence, its always better to know what the altitude sickness means and what we can do to prevent
it. Further in the article, I try to lay out some important theory and facts about the mountain sickness and
acclimatization which may help you be prepared for altitude changes and enjoy that ever awaited holiday of
yours :).
Acclimatization and Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Altitude can be categorized into the following scales
High (8,000 12,000 feet [2,438 - 3,658 meters])

Very High (12,000 18,000 feet [3,658 - 5,487 meters])
Extremely High (18,000+ feet [5,500+ meters])
Generally, people can go up to 8000 feet without much problems of mountain sickness. As you start to
increase altitude, the barometric pressure starts to decrease which reduces the Oxygen intake per breath.
Now, in order to compensate for the less Oxygen intake, your body need to increase the breathing rate.
Although the increased breathing rate does increase the Oxygen level in the blood but it does not take the
Oxygen level to the same level as required by the body while you are at home doing some activity. By
spending proper amount of time at such altitude your body will adapt to such changes in Oxygen levels and
this process is called as acclimatization. Always keep in mind that different people will acclimatize at different
rates. Hence, always try to avoid any sought of comparison and wait for the person suffering in the group
better acclimatize.
Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is caused above the altitudes of 10,000 Feet or 3,048 Mtrs to majority of
people. Higher is the elevation and rate of ascent, more will be the effects of AMS. Hence, do not try to
directly go or stay at very high altitudes directly. When you sleep, the symptoms will get worse as our body
respiration decrease while sleeping.
The best cure is either to acclimatize properly or descend. However, effects of mild AMS can be cured by
taking some preventive AMS medicines like headache pain relief or Diamox with proper consultation and
prescription with your doctor or physician prior to the start of the trip. Diamox is a sulfa drug and does have
side effects including allergies. Hence, Diamox shall only be taken after proper prescription by your doctor or
physician. Diamox can also be helpful in case a person suffer from periodic loss of breath, which especially
occurs in the night while sleeping.
Incase, you feel the personal is suffering badly then ask him to walk in a straight line by placing toe to toe. If
the person is not able to walk in a straight line i.e. he is suffering with ataxia. IMMEDIATELY DESCEND!!
Tips for Better Acclimatization
Below are few tips that will certainly help you in better acclimatization:
Increase the altitude gradually
The acclimatization rules states that after 10,000 feet we must stay overnight for every 1000 feet or 305 Mtrs
of elevation in order to properly acclimatize our body. This schedule in between shall allow a complete day
acclimatization rest after 3000 feet or 915 Mtrs with overnight stay at the same altitude. If you can adjust your
plan to this rule then perhaps you will not suffer with mountain sickness. However, the ground reality is only
few people stick to this schedule especially in India where leaves are hard to find from their work life :lol:.
Keep your body properly hydrated
Do take plenty of intake of water with ORS or fluids like milk tea, juice, soup (garlic one will do wonders). If
possible, take ORS soluted water or ORS L tetra packs with you to replenish the lost nutrients immediately.
Also, garlic flavored water (keep garlic in water bottles) will help much more than drinking plain water which
shall be avoided. This will help keep the oxygen level to normal in the body. You should avoid too much black
tea or coffee as well
AVOID over hydration because as quoted by vistet linked here(post #12):Forcing children to drink when they are not thirsty: at best they will vomit (which will force you to descend), at
worst theyll start to develop cerebral edema either only from water intoxication, or as a mixed result from
this and altitude sickness. See for example Peter Hackett (Everest-climbing doctor and co-author of the CDC
altitude advisory) on this: Too much water is harmful and can dilute your bodys sodium levels (hyponatremia)
causing weakness, confusion, seizures, and coma.
Avoid sleeping at high altitudes
As sleeping decrease the respiratory drive of our body, it is recommended that one shall hike to high altitudes
in the day but should always come back to by the evening to sleep at lower altitude.
Avoid over exertion
Do not over exert your body with any unnecessary physical activity which may lead you pump more breath.
Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs
Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs including, barbiturates, tranquilizers, and
sleeping pills. These depressants further decrease the respiratory drive during sleep resulting in a worsening
of the symptoms.
Keep your body warm
Keep your body warm with woollens and do not let it cool. Make sure your clothes are always dry.
Eat lots of Carbohydrates
Eat a high carbohydrate diet (more than 70% of your calories from carbohydrates) while at altitude.
Avoid sleep during the day
Try not to sleep during the day and keep yourself involved in some light activity during the day. Respiration
decreases during sleep which further exacerbate the symptoms.
Sleep in upright position, if possible
Try to lie down or sleep by resting your back against the wall. If you cannot sleep in such mode then do not
flatten your head on the bed rather place a bag below your head and then one or two pillows and then sleep in
such a posture. It will help you keep your head much lighter.
Carry preventive medicines for AMS
Do take preventive AMS medicines along with you on the trip but only after consultation with your doctor or
physician because the AMS medicines may lead to some side effects too. If you are not sure about any
allergy with these medicines then try them one or two week before you plan the trip. Check to see if there are
any allergic effects and decide.
Carry Small Oxygen Kit
If possible, you may also carry a oxygen cylinder to counter the AMS symptoms. It will certainly help as a
supplement but do take proper consultation from your doctor for the intake amount of oxygen, before the trip.
Oxygen intake will help you incase of any emergency and will spare you more time to descend to lower
altitudes as soon as possible.
A note from the pioneer, Vistet linked here at post #12: on oxygen cylinders:
Small tanks of even medical grade oxygen provides a false sense of security: they will at extreme best last for
an hour or two. For the value of cheap, portable oxygen solutions see here, # 5 and #7 check here
Immediately descend, if symptoms increase
Last but not the least, if the AMS symptoms start to increase then you should consider immediate descend.
This is the only cure in some conditions when the symptoms have reached moderate levels and are not
decreasing.
Symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Below is the categorization of symptoms for different levels of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) along with
indicative cure for it
AMS Symptoms
Headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of
breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed
sleep, and a general feeling of malaise
Decreased coordination (ataxia), Severe
headache (not relieved by medicine), other
mild level symptoms with increased affect
Inability to walk, decreasing mental status,
and fluid build-up in the lungs
AMS Level
Mild
Moderate
Severe
Possible Cure
Medication or Descend
Advanced
Medication
or
Descend about 305-610 Mtrs
Immediate Descend
610-1,220 Mtrs
about
Taking baby or kid to high altitude?

Many a times when you want to travel to high altitudes, you may likely to worry for your kid or baby or infant.
Well, personally I suggest you travel with kid or infant at least 12 months old. However, studies suggest its
safe to travel with an infant more than 3 months old IFF he/she is not born prematurely or do not suffer from
any illness. NEVER travel with a baby less than 3 months old. While the above tips are helpful for kids or
babies above 3 months old as well but there are other tips which need special attention for travelling with Kids
and babies.
References
If you need more detailed information about Acute Mountain Sickness, then you may read the following links
as well
Outdoor Action Guide to High Altitude: Acclimatization and Illnesses
Altitude acclimatization for trekking 10 golden rules
Altitude Illness Clinical Guide For Physicians
An Altitude Tutorial
Please share your valuable comments on acclimatization and acute mountain sickness or if you like the article
and it could be of some help for you too.
Having said all that, it is still recommended that you CONSULT A DOCTOR or PHYSICIAN before you make
a trip to a high altitude region just to ensure everything is in right place. Again, these are just my suggestions
based on my very limited or negligible knowledge of AMS or mountain sickness but I will definitely suggest
you that you consult some physician or doctor before going on the trip because I am not any of them. For
more details on the same you MUST READ the links mentioned in the references which explains it in better
details
12. List of things to carry when you go on trip
There are so many of us who likes travelling to the core of our souls and keep on visiting new, beautiful places
every now and then. Sometimes the plan arises out of nowhere and you have no time to think about contents
of the luggage for the trip. Most of the time in these cases, we forget one or more essential things to carry
while going on a trip. You can imagine a situation where you need to rush and search desperately for a small
thing such as soap where even a tissue paper would have come handy ;).
Since luggage is most common among any kind of traveller, it would be great to always have a list of things to
carry on a trip, in store for yourself. It would certainly be extremely handy when the plans are abrupt and come
out of nowhere, leaving no time for packing the luggage. I have tried to compile a comprehensive list of thing
to carry while I go on a trip and feel could be helpful for each one of us travelling to various places.
Basic Travel Kit
Itinerary Printout (at least 2)

Travel Guide / Map Print Out (at least 2)
At least two Copies of PhotoIDs for all members
Mobile
Mobile Charger
Pen and a small Diary
Bag locks (2 or more)
Backpack or Carry bag
Extra spectacles with cover
Spectacles cover
TORCHLIGHT
Small Scissor
Watch
Swiss Knife
Sunglasses Recommended
Multi-Plug Recommended for remote areas
Small water bottle, say 500 ml
Match Boxes or Flint or Cigarette Lighter
Couple of candles
Plastic Bags / Plastic Zip Lock Bags
Twist-ties, safety pins
Novels or two
Pens, pencils, colors, crayons, chocolates, toffees for distribution among local children
Eateries
Chocolates, toffees, chips, chewing gums, mouth freshener, dry fruits etc.
Pre-cooked food if possible
Camera Kit
Camera with bag

Camera Charger and its cable
Camera Battery
Camera Cleaning Kit including Lenspen
Tripod
Filters
Remote Release
Photography Handbook
Extra Camera Battery, if possible
Extra Remote Release Battery, if possible
Extra memory cards, if possible
Toiletries
Tooth Brush
Tooth Paste
Toilet Soap
Shampoo Pouches according to the schedule or a small shampoo bottle
Tissue Papers
Face wash if required but common for girls
Hair Oil
Deodorants
Moisturizing Cream
Lip Guard
Cologne Talc
Comb
Small Mirror
Feminine Hygiene, if required
Shaving Kit
Shaver / Razor / Trimmer

Shaving Blades ( If possible keep some extra blades)
Shaver Brush
Shaving Foam or Cream
Clothing Kit
Clothes as per the schedule

Towels
Socks
Handkerchiefs
Slippers
At least one light jacket
Air Travel
Air-ticket Printout (if flying with e-tickets)

Credit/Debit Card photocopy both side from which booking was made Dont forget to strike of CVV
number
Authentication Letter if someone elses Credit/Debit Card
Mountains Must Haves
Digital Thermometer (Optional)

Cold Cream
Lip Guard
Hats / Caps
Heavy Woolen Clothing including woolen socks (Severe Cold / Snow)
Woolen Hand Gloves (Severe Cold / Snow)
At least 2 pairs of thermal.
Trekking Must Haves
Hard Wooden Stick (Also handy in snow for the grip)

Rain / Snow Protection Gear like Rain Coat / Rain Suit
Hats / Caps
Gaiters for snow or water
Water Bottles (Snow trek needs more water than we think)
Trekking Shoes
Beach Must Haves
Hats / Caps
Sunscreen lotion (SPF 50 or greater) or Sunblock
2-3 Extra Shorts,
An extra slipper and extra towel for back pack

Thin single bed sheet if not interested in beach shack / bed always
Lip Guard with sunscreen
Long-sleeved over shirt and a thin pair of pants as night gets a bit cold at beaches
Medicine or First-aid Box

Disclaimer Well medicines listed here are just my suggestion as it suits me and you shall always consult your
doctor before taking any of these.
ORS or ORS-L Tetra Packs at least 5 in number

Pain Relief Spray
Pain Relief Cream or Gel
Betadine Antiseptic cream
Savlon or Dettol Antiseptic solution
Combiflaim or Flexon Pain Killers
Crocin or Paracetamol Mild Fever
Avomine Relief from Dizziness, Motion Sickness and Vomiting
Digene Relief from Flatulence, Indigestion, acidity (mild)
Zinetac 150mg Acidity or gastric problems (only if severe)
Eno Sachets Quick Gastric Relief
Entroquinol Relief from Loose motion (mild)
Metrogyl Relief from Loose motion (high)
D-Cold Total or Vicks Action 500 for cold
Pudin Hara for stomachache
Crepe Bandage 2 (for fractures)
J&J Band-Aid Fast Heal Wash proof Long, Square and circle patches
Cotton and Dressing Bandage
Becosules for vitamin B-complex and sometimes energy
Eye Tone for soothing eyes
Nasivion for blocked and dry nose
Ongoing Regular Medicines, if any
I feel a cross check of luggage with this list before leaving, would be helpful to many of us in reducing the
chances of forgetting some small things while we go on a trip. This way we can enjoy the trip without worrying
over the availability of some item in the town or trek we check-in. This list may not be perfect for each one of
us but at least we can tweak it according to our pickings and save that in our archives for future trip
references.
You are most likely invited to keep adding your valuable thoughts suggestions for the list of items things to
carry while going on a trip. This way we may end up making it a complete comprehensive list for all of us and
others seeking this kind of a list. Do provide your suggestions in the comments section below.
Disclaimer Again to remind you that medicines listed above are just my suggestion as it suits me and you
shall always consult your doctor before taking any of the above medicine.
Some Good Taxi Drivers in Leh Ladakh
Rigzin 09622954779, 9469472772 (he know me personally and being more of a friend, he might help
arrange some alternative in case he is busy or booked already in the season) Best person to get hold off in
Ladakh so dont miss the opportunity as traveling with this jovial soul is an experience in itself
Manzoor 09622973951 | Very nice person, recommended by readers below as well
Chamba 09906999808 (Nice person, tried by couple of readers below with positive feedback)
Naseer 09906229203 and 09469293183
Dorjey 09419372742, 09622969317
Dorjay Anbchuk 09419308051
Tashi 09469630613, 09906994647, 09419342238
Tsewang 09622993372
Tsewang (not same as above) 09419853528
Sonam 09419371012
Abbas 09622998367
Abbas (not same as above) 09622971759, 09469271786

Leh Guide - DOW

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Leh Guide - DOW

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Ladakh Travel Guide DOW

Srinagar Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ....................................................................................... 2

Manali Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ............................................................................................. 8

Places on Manali Leh Highway | A Detailed Description ........................................................................ 14

Leh, Ladakh | Local Sightseeing and Travel Guide ................................................................................... 21

Sham Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 23

Nubra Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 25

Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ..................................................................... 28

Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide .......................................................................... 31

Fuel Availability In Leh Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips ....................................................................... 34

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

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Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

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Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

Other travel modes

Two Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway

One Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway

Srinagar Leh (Day 1)

Three Day Journey on Srinagar Leh Highway

Alternate Route to Leh from Kargil via Batalik and Dah

Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar Leh Highway

g) Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar Leh Highway

Places on Srinagar Leh Highway with their Distances

Drass Kargil (55 KMs)

Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar Leh Highway

Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi

Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi

Diesel / Petrol Pumps

Mangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi

Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil, Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi, Nimmu and

Sonamarg, Drass (limited), Kargil, Lamayuru (limited)

Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil

Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Kargil, Lamayuru (Puncture), Mulbekh (Puncture),

Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil

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Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

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Keylong Leh Bus Service, HRTC | Cheapest mode of travel

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

Other travel modes

Two Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

One Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway

Manali Leh (Day 1)

Three Day Journey on Manali Leh Highway

Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali Leh Highway

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit

Day 2 | Hunder / Diskit Sumur Panamik Sumur Khardung La Leh

Sumur has a Samstanling monastery to check out nearby

e) Other Important Information for Nubra Valley

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Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.

Copyright 2014 www.devilonwheels.com. All Rights Reserved. Not to be reproduced.