How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

How to
Make Eggs
By A guide by Julia Moskin

Theres a reason put an egg on it has become a modern culinary mantra. More than any other ingredient, eggs travel smoothly
from breakfast to lunch to dinner. They can turn a dish into a meal (perched on seasonal greens, grain dishes or pasta) or they can
be the meal themselves (omelets, frittatas and more). At their simplest, eggs are creamy little packages of luxury requiring nothing
more than salt to shine. At the end of a busy day, take 5 minutes to poach or fry one, put it on top of a salad or yesterdays roasted
vegetables or rice pilaf, and sit down to dinner.

Before You Start

1. Many methods for cooking eggs require a nonstick pan. Its worth it to invest in a good one.
2. Often the secret to egg-cooking success is starting with room temperature eggs. If you know youll be cooking
eggs, pull them out of the fridge in advance.
3. Spend where it counts. You can use conventional supermarket eggs for baking and other cooking, but buy
locally sourced eggs for a scramble or an omelet, where the flavor really shines through.
4. Brown eggs are not of better quality, fresher or in any way different from white eggs. You can use them
interchangeably.

Buying and Keeping

As with most ingredients, quality and freshness matters. Eggs from a nearby farm, a local greenmarket or a community-supported
agriculture group are increasingly easy to find and likely to be fresher and better tasting than conventional supermarket eggs
though they also cost twice as much.

1.

WHAT THE LABELS MEAN

Picking up a dozen eggs at the supermarket used to be a simple matter, but no more. Here are the details on
some words and phrases that are regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug
Administration. Keep in mind that all whole eggs are considered to be all-natural, hormone-free, gluten-free,
carbohydrate-free, trans fat-free, a good source of Vitamin D and a good source of protein. You may see these
words on the carton, but they do not indicate better quality than other eggs.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 1 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Also remember that many eggs sold through at farms and farm markets are in fact organic, but they are not
labeled as such when the farms egg production is too small to require certification. In any case, these eggs are
more likely to have deeply golden, flavorful yolks and sturdy whites that stand up to poaching.
FREE RANGE The birds are not caged, have open space and can easy access the outdoors, where they are able
to fly to nests and perches and to forage for food. (Farmers are allowed to restrict their activities according to
weather, environmental requirements and local ordinances.)
CAGE FREE/FREE ROAMING The birds are not caged, but they may be crowded, restricted to indoor spaces and
floors, and fed exclusively on chicken feed.
CERTIFIED ORGANIC Subject to U.S.D.A. certification, organic eggs must live under cage free/free roaming
conditions (they are not free range, necessarily, but they can be). They are fed only organic feed.
PASTURED This is not an official label, but it is supposed to mean that birds spend most of their lives outdoors,
with frequent changes of pasture area in which to forage, and access to a barn.
NO ANTIBIOTICS All eggs sold in United States markets are free of antibiotics. Eggs laid by hens that are treated
with antibiotics are not allowed in the food chain, according to F.D.A. regulations.
NUTRIENT ENHANCED Eggs laid by hens who have been fed a special diet to increase certain nutrients like
vitamin E, omega 3 fatty acids or lutein.
FARM FRESH Marketing jargon that means nothing.

2.

FRESHNESS AND STORAGE

Eggs can be stored in the refrigerator without any loss of quality for weeks, until at least 4 weeks past the sell-by
date.
As an egg ages, the white becomes thinner, the yolk becomes flatter and the yolk membrane becomes weaker,
making it more likely to break. These changes dont affect the egg nutritionally or functionally, but the freshness of
an egg does affect its appearance.
To test the freshness of eggs, submerge them in a deep bowl or pot of cold water. The freshest eggs lie flat on
their sides. As they age, air slowly enters the shell and they become more buoyant. Older eggs begin to tilt up and
then stand upright on the bottom, but are perfectly usable. Floating eggs should be discarded.

Boiled
Once a cook has mastered boiling eggs, breakfast and lunch are taken care of forever. With hard-boiled eggs, the trick is to make
them before you need them: cook a whole carton, stash them in the fridge, and see how useful they are. Soft-boiled eggs are a
delight to eat in the shell, and can be used just like a poached egg when scooped out of it. And by the way, boiled is a misnomer;

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 2 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

the water should never rise above a simmer.

1.

BASIC METHOD: HARD-BOILED

Place the eggs in a single layer in a heavy saucepan and cover with cold water by at least one inch. Add a
teaspoon of salt. Leaving the pot uncovered, turn the heat to high. As soon as the water comes to a boil, turn off
the heat and cover the pan.
For creamy yolks, after 10 minutes, remove the cover and run cold water over eggs for 1 minute. Set aside to cool
at room temperature. For firmer yolks, leave the eggs to cool in the cooking water, uncovered, for up to two hours.

2.

BASIC METHOD: SOFT-BOILED

Place the eggs in a single layer in a heavy saucepan and cover with lukewarm water by at least one inch. Add a
teaspoon of salt.
Leaving the pot uncovered, turn the heat to high, and bring the water just to a gentle boil. Immediately turn off the
heat, cover the pan and let stand for 2 minutes. Transfer the pot to the sink and run cold water over the eggs for
about 30 seconds.

3.

TIPS
A gray-green ring around the yolk of a hard boiled egg means that it was cooked too long and/or at too high a
temperature. To protect against this, cooked eggs should be immediately immersed in cold water to stop the
cooking process.
Salting the water helps minimize leaks if the eggs crack in the pan; the egg whites coagulate and seal off the
crack more quickly.
To peel, gently tap a boiled egg against the counter, turning and tapping to make a crackle pattern. Start peeling
at the broad end, where there is an air pocket. Running the egg under cold water is not necessary, unless they are
too hot to handle.
To test if an egg has been cooked, spin it on a counter. A hard boiled egg spins faster than a raw egg.
If you have a large pot with a steamer insert, you can skip the immersion process and steam the eggs instead.
Place them in a single layer in the insert, and steam over boiling water for about 6 minutes for soft boiled eggs, 12
minutes for hard boiled ones.
Coddled eggs are soft-boiled eggs with a runny yolk either cooked in the shell, or in a special ramekin with a
lid called a coddler.
In recipes like mayonnaise and Caesar salad that call for raw egg yolks, the soft yolk of a poached or soft-boiled
egg can be used instead.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 3 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Poached
The poached egg is the fluffy, ethereal member of the family. The traditional French method calls for breaking an egg into a
churning whirlpool of simmering water. This is is daunting for home cooks and more importantly, its not necessary.
(Restaurant chefs do it when they have lots of eggs to poach at once.) Heres an easy, foolproof method; just keep in mind that
throughout the process, both the egg and the cooking water should be moving as little as possible.

1.

BASIC METHOD
In a pot or deep skillet, combine about 1 quart water, 1 tablespoon white vinegar and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. You
can poach one to four eggs at a time in this liquid; work in batches for more. Eggs can be at room temperature or
refrigerator-cold; cold eggs will require a slightly longer cooking time.
Bring water to a bare simmer (the French call it a smile), with bubbles forming on the bottom of the pan and only
slight activity on the top. The water will be under 190 degrees; you should be able to quickly dip your fingertip in
and out without pain.
If you are a confident cook, crack each egg on the side of the pan and let the contents slide very gently into the
water. If you need to worry about broken yolks or bits of shell, break each egg into a separate ramekin before you
begin to cook. Hold the ramekin just above the water and turn it over quickly but gently, to keep the whites and
yolks close together.
Let cook until just firm, 4 to 5 minutes. The yolks will be soft and plump and the whites will be set but not tough.
Use a slotted spoon to lift eggs out one at a time. Let drain on a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Use the edge
of the spoon or a small knife to trim off any ragged edges.

2.

TIPS
The fresher your eggs are, the better they will hold their shape in the water.
For better odds of picture-perfect eggs, break each one into a sieve or perforated spoon and let the thin, runny
part of the white drain off before sliding just the yolk and gelatinous white into the water.
You can poach eggs up to a day ahead. Hold them in a container of ice water in the refrigerator, then gently
reheat for 2 minutes in barely simmering or hot tap water.
In addition to water, eggs can be poached in barely simmering stock, cream, wine, olive oil or tomato sauce. Do
not poach ahead.
In recipes like mayonnaise and Caesar salad that call for raw egg yolks, the soft yolk of a poached or soft-boiled
egg can be used instead.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 4 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Scrambled
Providing the most satisfaction in the least amount of time, scrambled eggs should be a back-pocket recipe for every cook. So long
as they are not overcooked, they are delicious plain or mixed with add-ons like cheese and herbs, crisp bread crumbs and crushed
corn tortillas, diced ham or smoked fish or sauted vegetables. Stuff them into a burrito or quesadilla, or pile into a soft bread roll
or onto toast points.

1.

BASIC METHOD: HARD-SCRAMBLED (A.K.A. HOT AND FAST)

For 2 or 3 servings: Crack 6 eggs into a bowl and beat well with a whisk or a fork. Add 2 pinches salt and beat in 1
tablespoon milk or cream (this is optional; the dairy makes the finished eggs more moist). Over high heat, melt 2
tablespoons of butter in a thick, heavy saucepan or skillet with high sides.
When the butter foams, add the egg mixture and cook over medium to high heat, stirring continuously and
vigorously with a whisk (use a silicone whisk if the pan is nonstick) just until the mixture is firming up into large
curds.
While the eggs are still quite soft and shiny, remove the mixture from the heat. (The eggs will continue to cook in
the residual heat of the pan.) Serve immediately.

2.

BASIC METHOD: SOFT-SCRAMBLED (A.K.A. LOW AND SLOW)

For 2 or 3 servings: Crack 6 eggs into a bowl and beat well with a whisk or a fork. Add 2 pinches salt and beat in 1
tablespoon milk or cream (this is optional; the dairy makes the finished eggs more moist). Heat a deep 10-inch
nonstick skillet over medium-low heat for about 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons butter and swirl it in the pan. After
the butter melts, but before it foams, turn the heat to very low.
Add the eggs to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula. At first nothing will
happen; after a few minutes, the eggs will begin to form curds. Now stir continuously, breaking up the curds as
they form, until the mixture is a mass of tiny curds depending on the heat level, this can take as long as 20
minutes.
While the eggs are still quite soft and shiny, remove the mixture from the heat. (The eggs will continue to cook in
the residual heat of the pan.) Serve immediately.

3.

TIPS
It is worth investing in a heavy, good-quality nonstick pan to make great scrambled eggs.
Adding salt to the eggs before cooking produces a more tender scramble.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 5 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Adding a little milk or cream to scrambled eggs helps keep them moist (but too much will make them runny).

Fried
Is there any dish more cheering than a perfect fried egg? It appears so simple: golden yolk, firm but tender white, buttery edges.
But getting the yolk and whites cooked at the same time has challenged many great culinary minds. As is so often the case, room
temperature eggs and super-low heat are the keys to success. Turn them over in the pan to speed up the yolks.

1.

SUNNY SIDE UP
For 2 fried eggs with bright yellow yolks and no brown edges, bring the eggs to room temperature. Heat 2
tablespoons butter in a 10-inch skillet over the lowest possible heat.
When the butter is just melted but not yet bubbling or foaming, crack 1 egg into each side of the pan. The whites
will spread out and stay clear for a few seconds before turning white. (If the whites turn opaque immediately, the
pan is too hot. Reduce the heat or use a flame tamer.)
Use a silicone spatula to gently push the whites apart so that each egg remains separate. Let cook slowly; use the
spatula to make a few slits through the white, to let the still-liquid parts spill into the bottom of the pan. When the
whites are almost completely cooked (this can take as long as 3 to 4 minutes), baste the eggs with the melted
butter in the pan.
To test if the yolk is done, touch it with your finger; it should feel warm or hot, not lukewarm. The last part to cook
is the gelatinous ring of white around the yolk; be sure not to remove the egg from the heat until that part is
cooked through.

2.

OVER EASY
Fry an egg as above, increasing the heat slightly. When the bottom of a fried egg is cooked but the yolk still
undercooked, use your spatula to gently lift and fold the whites over the yolk from both sides.
Carefully turn the folded egg over (without breaking the yolk) and let cook for 10 to 30 seconds more. (If you dont
mind how it looks, just flip the whole egg over and dont bother with the folding.)

3.

TIPS
The fresher the your eggs are, the better they will hold their shape in the pan.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 6 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

To get the whites and yolks fully cooked at the same time, start with warm or room temperature eggs.
Refrigerated eggs will warm up to the right temperature in a 10-minute hot water bath.
If you are aiming for sunny-side-up eggs but the whites are done before the yolks, add a teaspoon or so of water
to the skillet and cover it so that the yolk cooks in the steam. Lift the lid every 15 seconds or so to check on the
yolk: it may acquire a white film. Or, give the egg a quick flip and finish the cooking over easy. The egg will not look
as cheerful, but its better than wasting an egg by overcooking.
Eggs can be fried sunny side up in a half-inch of hot oil instead of in butter; the edges will turn brown and crisp.

Omelet
French chefs often talk about training for years to master a simple omelet, so attempting one can be discouraging to home cooks.
But an omelet is not a boeuf bourguignon: it is just eggs, evenly cooked. A good nonstick pan and a few minutes of undivided
attention are more important than any other element of the recipe.

1.

BASIC METHOD
Crack 3 eggs into a bowl and beat well with a whisk or a fork. Add milk, 2 good pinches of salt and one of pepper.
Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 2 teaspoons neutral oil in an 8-inch nonstick skillet over high heat.
When the oil and butter are hot, swirl them together, add the egg mixture and reduce the heat to low (or very low if
you like your omelets completely yellow, with no browning). Swirl the pan to distribute the eggs evenly over the
surface.
Use a silicone spatula to drag the cooked edges into the center: picture a clock face and drag in from 12, 3, 6 and
9, letting the uncooked egg run out to the edges of the pan. Shake the pan to loosen the bottom and let any
remaining uncooked egg run underneath (if necessary, use the spatula to lift the edges up).
Sprinkle 2 tablespoons goat cheese across the center. Let cook just until the top is almost set but still moist. Fold
the bottom third of the omelet up over the center, and then fold the top third down. Invert onto a plate, sprinkle
with finely chopped chives, and serve.

2.

TIPS
Here again, a good nonstick pan is the egg cooks best friend. A pan made of a material lighter than cast iron is
preferable for omelets: it will be easier to maneuver and more responsive to changes in the heat.
Start with room-temperature eggs, so that the omelet cooks as quickly as possible and remains tender.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 7 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Have all your fillings close by and at room temperature before you begin cooking.
Instead of or in addition to cheese, you may fill an omelet with sauted or roasted vegetables, butter-softened
shallots or leeks, steamed greens, bits of bacon or ham, minced herbs or citrus zest, or salsa or another
condiment.
For a traditional dessert, try filling an omelet with jam and sprinkling the top with powdered sugar, like a crepe.

Baked or Shirred
Baked and shirred eggs, also known as eggs en cocotte, are the same thing: eggs baked in a dish, either two at a time or in a larger
casserole. Its a spoonable, old-fashioned preparation that can be served at any time of day, and one that is especially useful as a
meatless family dinner. Baked egg variations are also handy for brunch, as they can be assembled several hours in advance and
baked at the last minute.

1.

BASIC METHOD
For 6 servings (can be divided or multiplied as needed): Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Season 1/2 cup heavy
cream with salt and pepper, and heat in a saucepan or a microwave just until steaming.
Spoon about 1 tablespoon hot cream into each of six 1-cup ramekins. Crack 2 eggs into each ramekin, keeping
yolks intact. Top with 2 pinches finely minced herbs if youd like, and spoon about 1 teaspoon hot cream on top.
Place ramekins in a small roasting pan. If youd like, to help prevent overcooking, add boiling water to the pan to
come halfway up the sides of the ramekins; this extra step technically makes them eggs en cocotte, which are
slightly more difficult to manage, and slightly more tender.
Slide pan into oven and bake until just set and opaque, 15 to 25 minutes. Serve immediately, with toast.

2.

TIPS
Adding cream to the ramekins helps prevent the egg whites from getting tough in the dry heat of the oven. It also
eliminates the need to butter the ramekins to prevent sticking, though you should still do so if you like the taste.
Nestled under the eggs, you might place sauted or roasted vegetables, butter-softened shallots or leeks,
steamed greens, or bits of bacon or ham. On top, add finely minced herbs or lemon zest, and a nice touch is a
slice of buttered bread cut to fit the top and sprinkled with cheese.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 8 of 9

How to Make Eggs - NYT Cooking

31/12/15, 8:06 PM

Eggs can also be baked in a dish that holds another food: a bed of hot polenta, mashed potatoes or hash. Use
the back of a spoon to make indentations, crack the eggs in, and bake in a 325-degree oven for about 15
minutes.

Frittata
Frittata is a wonderful egg dish for summer, when its best to get cooking out of the way in the morning and serve lunch at room
temperature. (Usually, eggs are best served either piping hot or lightly chilled.) Also, frittata is a friendly match for all kinds of
seasonal salads, from winter squash to summer tomatoes. Add bread, a cheese board and some charcuterie to the table, and
dinner is served.

1.

BASIC METHOD
For three or four servings: Heat 2 tablespoons butter or olive oil in a heavy 10-inch skillet, preferably nonstick. Add
a handful of minced onion (or shallot or leeks) and a pinch of salt and cook over very low heat, stirring
occasionally, until completely soft but not at all browned.
Preheat the broiler. Whisk together 6 to 8 eggs, then stir in about cup grated or crumbled cheese and 2
tablespoons minced fresh herbs. Add egg mixture to pan, let set for 5 to 10 seconds, then give the pan a few
quick jerks to prevent the bottom from sticking. Let cook over very low heat (either covered or uncovered is fine;
covered, it will cook through a little faster).
When almost set, with just a shallow puddle of raw egg remaining on top, sprinkle on a little more cheese (if
desired) and place in oven, at least 4 inches away from the broiler. Broil until puffed and golden (golden brown at
the darkest).
Serve hot or at room temperature, from the pan or on a serving dish. Garnish with more cheese and fresh herbs
and cut into wedges.

2.

TIPS
Be sure your pan is oven-proof before you begin. It needs to go seamlessly from stovetop to broiler.
Instead of or in addition to cheese, you may add sauted or roasted vegetables, butter-softened shallots or leeks,
steamed greens, bits of bacon or ham, minced herbs or citrus zest.

http://cooking.nytimes.com/guides/18-how-to-make-eggs

Page 9 of 9