Color Manual

Table of Contents
1 Discover
Kenra Color

pages 2 - 3

2 Hair fundamentals

pages 4 - 7

3 Kenra Color

pages 8 - 12

4 Permanent Color

pages 13 - 21

5 Demi-permanent
Color

pages 22 - 25

6 Color Support

pages 26 - 28

7 Technical Application
Reference

pages 29 - 30

DISCOVER KENRA COLOR

A COLOR PALETTE WITH NO BOUNDARIES
Kenra Color from Kenra Professional makes it easier
than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results. This highperformance, straightforward and easy-to-use haircolor
line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can
count on. Kenra Color is committed to providing you all
the tools needed for true-to-tone haircolor solutions on
every client, every time.
For high performance, Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, our proprietary blend of
five essential haircolor attributes designed to meet the needs of stylists and clients alike. We are
committed to providing each of your clients with results that far exceed their expectations.
Kenra Color is supported by an education platform ensuring straightforward, easy-to-use haircolor
that is infused with artistic influence and inspiration. Ease meets artistry through our unique haircolor
fundamentals including the Five Step Approach to Color Formulation and Elements of Design, our
signature guide to haircolor application.
The Kenra Color portfolio includes both Permanent and Demi-permanent offerings, each with a
balanced shade collection of warm and cool tones that are intermixable for basic to advanced color
formulation. Kenra Color provides unlimited haircolor versatility allowing the stylist to be as technical
or as creative as they want.
Like Kenra, Kenra Platinum and Kenra Smooth, Kenra Color maintains our commitment to the
professional beauty industry. We continue to deliver high-quality, performance-driven, professional
haircare solutions to help deliver the results you and your clients have come to expect.

Kenra Color Manual 1

1 Discover Kenra Color

Notes

KENRA COLOR FROM KENRA PROFESSIONAL

Why Kenra Color?
Kenra Color was developed with both the professional stylist and their clients in mind. This highperformance haircolor line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can count on to provide
true-to-tone haircolor solutions on every client, every time. You can color confidently for Simply
Stunning Results both you and your clients have come to expect.
We know you have options when choosing a color line. We have worked hard to develop a system
that not only meets your needs, but far exceeds your expectations.
Performance Our product offers consistent, reliable, true-to-tone haircolor solutions to meet all of
your haircoloring needs. Kenra Color provides vibrant, long-lasting color and outstanding coverage
and color saturation ensuring full gray coverage. Our gentle formulation leaves your hair with
improved condition and manageability, and intense shine.
Ease of Use and Superior Education Our education platform outlines our Five Steps to Color
Formulation ensuring our system is straightforward and easy for you to use. Kenra Professional will
continue to provide the same level of superior education, training and customer support that youve
come to expect.
Artistic Influence Ease meets artistry through Elements of Design, Kenra Colors signature guide
to haircolor application. It supports the Five Steps or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and
unites inspiration and formulation with technical application.
Value Professional haircolor services remain the largest and most powerful category for growth.
Kenra Color provides unparalleled value and will positively impact your bottom line while providing
an incredible value for your client.
Versatility Kenra Color provides all the tools needed to be as technical or as creative as you want
offering a newfound freedom to create customary looks for each and every one of your clients.
Kenra Color is truly a color palette with no boundaries.

What is Kenra Color?

Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, a proprietary blend of five essential
haircolor attributes.
1. Vibrant, long-lasting color
2. Intense shine
3. Improved condition and manageability
4. Gentle formulation
5. Outstanding coverage and
color saturation

Discover Kenra Color

Kenra Color Portfolio

Notes

The Kenra Color portfolio provides you all the tools needed for consistent, reliable, true-to-tone
haircolor solutions. Whether you are just starting your career or you are an experienced colorist,
were confident Kenra Color will give you the versatility to create Simply Stunning Results.

Our portfolio includes:

- Permanent Coloring Cremes in a gentle, low-ammonia formulation available in a wide array
of warm and cool tones that deliver vibrant, long-lasting results and outstanding coverage
and color saturation including full gray coverage
- Demi-permanent Coloring Cremes formulated without ammonia providing an
extremely gentle formulation for improved condition and manageability with intense shine
- A Permanent Blonding Category including a variety of offerings such as our Kenra Color
Lightener Collection, High Lift Series and the extremely versatile Blonding Creme
- Permanent Color Boosters available in five shades designed to increase color vibrancy
or give special effects to any Kenra Color Permanent formulation
- Demi-permanent Rapid Toners available in four no ammonia shades designed to
process and tone in 5 minutes or less
- Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes available in three shades for use in color corrective services to
replace underlying pigments prior to Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring
- A Color Correcting System to gently, quickly and safely remove oxidative pigments
- A variety of Color Support Tools including Porosity Equalizing Spray and Stain Removing Wipes

Kenra Color Manual 3

2 Hair fundamentals
HAIR STRUCTURE
The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring products and techniques selected
by the stylist, as well as understanding the physical nature of the hair itself. This section explores
the fundamentals of hair its structure and unique characteristics and their role in the haircolor
process. At Kenra Professional, we believe that understanding the structure of your clients hair
is just the beginning of the overall consultation process. Each strand of hair has three main
components: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
Cuticle
The cuticle refers to the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping
and protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy, flat
cuticle layer promotes strength, shine and the overall appearance of the hair.
Cortex
The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft. It gives the
hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin
that lie along the length of the hair. Oxidative pigments are developed or oxidized in the cortex
with permanent and demi-permanent haircolor.
Medulla
Finally, the medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of human hair. It has no known
function and not all hair contains a medulla.

Cuticle

Cortex

Medulla

Cross-section
of hair strand

Hair fundamentals
HAIR CHARACTERISTICS

Notes

Texture
Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually
examining it tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally referred to as
fine, medium or coarse.

Fine

Medium

Coarse

Density
The density of the hair is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch on the
scalp and determines how much color mixture is needed for the color service. It can influence the
look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.

Thin

Medium

Thick

Kenra Color Manual 5

2 Hair fundamentals - continued

Porosity
DID YOU KNOW?
Using Kenra Color Porosity
Equalizing Spray prior to
Permanent or Demi-permanent
color services ensures even
pigment absorption on hair
with uneven or high porosity.

Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and hold liquids. Some factors that contribute to hairs
porosity include past chemical services, environmental damage and mechanical (hot tools and
brushing/combing) damage. Accurately judging the hairs porosity is critical for color and developer
selection. All haircolor durability is related to the porosity of the hair, which is usually described as
low, average, or high. Low porosity may cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate whereas high
porosity absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade away more readily.

Notes

Low porosity

High porosity

Formation
DID YOU KNOW?
Wavy or curly hair can look
less reflective because it can
absorb light and color. Create
the perfect canvas for a Kenra
Color service by offering
these types of clients a Kenra
Smooth service. Whats more,
complete both services in one
salon visit, saving time for your
client and creating a greater
revenue opportunity for you,
the stylist.

Hair formation refers to its shape and pattern. It can influence the look of color because it affects
the way light is reflected or absorbed. Forms of hair are described as straight, wavy or curly.

Follicle Shape

Hair Pattern

Color Reflection
Straight hair begins with a straight hair
follicle and has a sphere-shaped hair
strand. It is generally more reflective
because of its solid, smooth surface.

Wavy hair begins with a curve in the

hair follicle and has an oval-shaped
hair strand. It can absorb light and
may look less reflective.

Curly hair begins as a curved hair

follicle and has a flat/oval-shaped
hair strand. It can absorb light and
may look less reflective.

Hair fundamentals
HAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS

Hair Strand

Notes

Pigment Types
Direct Dyes These are color pigments that can actually
be seen. They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen
peroxide). Direct dye pigments are typically larger and
remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft. They can have
a staining effect on the hair.

Indirect Dyes

Indirect Dyes These are also called oxidative or

intermediate dyes. They require an oxidative agent such as
hydrogen peroxide to develop the pigments. The pigments

Direct Dyes

oxidize within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Haircolor Categories
Haircolor type

Oxidative
agent

Color
penetration

Ammonia

Chemical hair
change

Semi-permanent

No

Coats the cuticle

and penetrates
the outer layer
of the cortex.

None

Uses large, direct

dyes and does
not alter natural
pigment.

Demi-permanent

Yes

Penetrates
the cuticle and
multiple layers
of the cortex.

None

Can be a
combination of
direct and indirect
pigments and is
deposit only.
Fades gradually
and washes out
to the original color
of the hair.

Permanent

Yes

Fully penetrates
Usually contains
the cortex. After the some amount of
color is oxidized,
ammonia.
the cuticle closes
and the color stays
inside which gives
the hair its new color.

Permanently alters
the hair shaft
and can cause
movement or lift
of natural melanin
and deposit in one
process.

Kenra Color Manual 7

3 Kenra Color
Notes

THE LAW OF COLOR

Primary Colors Three colors that make up all other
colors (yellow, red, blue).
Secondary colors A mix of two primary colors
(orange, violet, green).
Tertiary colors A mix of a primary color and a
secondary color (yellow orange, red orange, red violet,
blue violet, blue green, yellow green).
Complementary colors Colors found opposite of
each other on the color wheel. In haircolor, they have
several important functions:
- They neutralize or cancel out the other one when they are mixed
together, and produce a neutral color, such as dark gray or brown
- They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example, a blue-based
color eliminates unwanted orange tones
- They also complement each other when placed side by side

Kenra Color Level System

The Kenra Color Level System denotes the degree of darkness
or lightness of the hair. It ranges from 1-10 with 1 representing

Level
10 Extra Light Blonde
09 Light Blonde

the darkest form of brown (referred to as Black) and 10

08 Blonde

indicating the lightest (referred to as Extra Light Blonde).

07 Medium Blonde

Note: This system does not observe level two because

06 Dark Blonde

levels below three are difficult to differentiate to the

05 Light Brown

human eye.

04 Medium Brown
03 Dark Brown
01 Black

Kenra Color Shade Identifier

Dominant Color

The Kenra Color shade identifier is easy to read and follows a

standard numerical and alphabetical identification system.
Number = Level Identification
First Letter = Dominant Color Reflection
Second Letter = Secondary Color Reflection

Level

Secondary
Reflection

Kenra Color
Shades and Tones

Notes

Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families in a balanced collection of warm and cool tones to meet
the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of mixing and delivers intense shine and
maximum coverage.
Natural: Combination of the three primary colors calibrated at the designated

Shade Chart

level to achieve full gray coverage (Permanent) and natural gray coverage up to

Natural

75% (Demi-permanent). The proper amount of the Natural Series should be added

NA

Natural Ash

Ash

Natural Ash: Calibrated at each level to optimize gray coverage and neutralize

AA

Ash Ash

warmth. Covers and blends gray while controlling underlying pigment in

SM

Silver Metallic

a single process.

Brown / Beige

BC

Brown Copper

Gold

into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (see Gray Coverage chart).

Ash: Neutralizes unwanted warmth to produce a cooler end result.

The Ash Series is formulated to neutralize underlying pigment.

GB

Gold Brown / Beige

Ash Ash: Increased ash pigments for added neutralization

Copper

of unwanted warm tones.

CG

Copper Gold

Silver Metallic: Cool blue tones supported by blue violet secondary reflection.

Red

RR

Red Red

RB

Red Brown

RC

Red Copper

Brown Copper: Warm brown dominant tones supported

VR

Violet Red

by copper secondary reflection.

RV

Red Violet

Violet

PV

Pearl Violet

Brown/Beige: Warm reflective brown tones from levels 4-7

and beige tones for levels 8-10.

Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reflection and a natural gold tonality.
Gold Brown/Beige: Dominant gold tones with secondary brown undertones.

Clear Gloss (no pigment)

Copper: Brilliant warm red / orange tones.

Copper Gold: Dominant reflective copper tones with secondary gold reflection.
Red: True red tones for maximum vibrancy.
Red Red: Superior vibrancy and pure red end results.
Red Brown: Dominant red tones supported by secondary reflection of brown.
Red Copper: Dominant red tones supported by copper undertones for vibrancy.
Violet Red: Dominant violet tones supported by red undertones for cool vibrancy at darker levels.
Red Violet: Dominant red tones supported by cool violet undertones.
Violet: Pale violet tone to reduce or tone unwanted yellow.
Pearl Violet: Combination of blue violet and violet tones to neutralize unwanted yellow-gold tones.

Kenra Color Manual 9

3 Kenra Color - continued

NATURAL

1N
P/D

NATURAL ASH

3N
P/D

4N
P/D

5N
P/D

6N
P/D

NATURAL BROWN

5NB
P/D

6NB
P

8N
P/D

9N
P/D

7NB
P/D

1A
D

4A
P/D

5A
P

7AA
P

7SM
P

8AA
P

8SM
P

10

6A
P/D

7A
P/D

8A
P

9A
P

10A
P/D

BROWN COPPER

5B
P/D

6B
P

7B
P/D

8B
P/D

10B
P/D

4BC
P

6BC
P/D

7BC
P/D

GOLD BROWN

6G
P/D

7G
P

COPPER

5C
P/D

6NA
P/D

10SM
P

GOLD

5G
P

5NA
P/D

SILVER METALLIC

BROWN

4B
P/D

10N
P/D

ASH

ASH ASH

6AA
P

7N
P/D

8G
P/D

9G
P

10G
D

5GB
P

COPPER GOLD

6C
P/D

8C
P/D

5CG
P/D

7CG
P/D

8CG
P

9CG
P

8GB
P/D

9GB
P/D

10GB
P

7NA
P/D

8NA
P/D

Kenra Color
RED

RED RED

KENRA COLOR SHADE CHART

P = Permanent

4R
P/D

5R
P

6R
P/D

7R
P

4RR
P/D

RED BROWN

4RB
P

5RB
P/D

D = Demi-permanent

7RR
P

RED COPPER

6RB
P

7RB
P/D

VIOLET RED

3VR
P/D

6RR
P/D

5RC
P

RED VIOLET

3RV
P

5VR
P/D

CLEAR

5RV
P

6RC
P/D

VIOLET

PEARL
VIOLET

10V
D

9PV
D

6RV
P

HIGH LIFT

Gloss
D

Gold
Natural
P

Natural
P

Pearl
Ash
P

Ash
P

Blonding
Creme
P

RAPID TONER

SV
D

VP
D

CR
D

GC
D

Copper
P

Gold
P

Violet
P

BOOSTER

Red
P

Blue
P

Kenra Color Manual 11

3 Kenra Color - continued

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
REMEMBER
All of our Kenra Color techniques
utilize Elements of Design and
can be completed in 5 steps or
less. You have access to all of
our application guides and our
latest artistic collections online
at kenracolor.com.

Elements of Design is Kenra Colors signature guide to haircolor application. It supports our 5 Steps
or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical
application. For Kenra Color, its truly where ease meets artistry.
Foundation Color: Primary overall color; incorporates 75% or more of total color.
Anchor Color: Supportive color designed to influence contrast of the Foundation Color and
is usually within 1 to 2 levels of the Foundation Color.
Accent Color: Emphasis colors to draw the eye to a particular area creating contrast

Notes

and can be used as both a highlight and lowlight.

Accent Color

Anchor Color

Foundation Color

12

4 Permanent Color
KENRA COLOR PERMANENT PORTFOLIO
Gentle, low-ammonia color available in a wide array of multidimensional tones that deliver consistent, reliable results.
1. Features Balancing Complex 5
2. Provides vibrant, long lasting results

REMEMBER
Kenra Color does not
recommend the use of a dryer,
steamer or accelerator drops
for processing.

3. Full gray coverage

4. Intense shine
Permanent Coloring Creme and Developer

Notes

Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Creme Developers were

specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent
Coloring Cremes. Available in 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%),
30 Volume (9%), and 40 Volume (12%) strengths to ensure proper
lift of natural hair and oxidation of dye intermediates. Creamy
consistency allows for precise application for all of your haircolor needs. Our standard mixing ratio
and processing time for Kenra Color Permanent Color is one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus
one part Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room temperature. If you are processing gray hair, mixing
ratio remains the same; however, you will want to process up to 40 minutes.

KENRA COLOR PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIO

One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)

1 + 1

Processing Time
30 Minutes
Processing Time for Gray Coverage
Up to 40 Minutes

Developer

Levels of Lift

10 Volume (3%)

Tone-on-tone / deposit only*

20 Volume (6%)

1 level of lift / deposit / gray coverage*

30 Volume (9%)

23 levels of lift*

40 Volume (12%)

34 levels of lift*

*Based on texture, density, and porosity.

Kenra Color Manual 13

4 Permanent Color - continued

Underlying Pigment
REMEMBER
The final result of any haircolor
service relies on a blend of
the color selected by the
stylist and the contribution of
underlying pigment.

Notes

Underlying pigment refers to the undertones that are exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted.
Generally, this affects the outcome of a color formulation when there is lifting of two or more levels
and the volume of developer selected affects underlying pigment exposed in the lifting process. It
is often necessary to add a neutralizing color into a formulation to ensure control of an unwanted
underlying pigment. Use this cart to determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level
you are coloring to and what neutralizing color can benefit your color formulation.
Level

Underlying Pigment

Neutralizing Color

10 Extra Light Blonde

Pale Yellow

Ash, Violet or Silver Metallic

09 Light Blonde

Yellow Gold

Ash or Pearl Violet

08 Blonde

Light Gold

Ash or Silver Metallic

07 Medium Blonde

Gold

Ash or Silver Metallic

06 Dark Blonde

Gold Orange

Ash

05 Light Brown

Orange

Ash

04 Medium Brown

Dark Orange

Ash

03 Dark Brown

Red Orange

N/A

01 Black

Darkest Red Orange

N/A

Gray Coverage
Gray hair is typically more

% of Gray

% of Natural Series

% of Desired Color

resistant to coloration

25%

25%

75%

50%

50%

50%

50100%*

75%

25%

because it has a harder

cuticle layer. It is often
thought to be very healthy
and void of all natural

*When hair is 80% gray or more, 20 Volume Developer is recommended.

pigment, but in reality, gray

hair is the lightest form of the three primary colors and requires increased pigmentation for coverage.
Kenra Color Permanent Natural Series provides the essential balance of pigments to ensure even
color saturation and maximum pigment uptake and should be incorporated into all gray coverage
formulations for full gray coverage. Mixing ratio remains at one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus
one part Developer (1:1); however, suggested processing time is up to 40 minutes.

14

Permanent Color
5 EASY STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION

Notes

Kenra Color streamlines the art of haircolor formulation with five easy steps that provide
consistent, reliable results on every client, every time.

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

FINALIZE THE FORMULATION

Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair

- Analyze the clients natural level by holding the Natural Series swatches against the
clients regrowth area and determine which one achieves a blend of the same level.
- Remember, you are only looking for the level of the natural hair, not the tonality.
- If the natural hair level falls between two levels, choose the lighter level when depositing
color (going darker), or the darker level when lifting color (going lighter).
Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone
- Select the appropriate color shade utilizing your swatchbook for reference.
Step 3: Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change
- Use the developer / levels of lift chart to determine the Developer required to ensure proper
lifting during the coloring process.
Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray
- Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how much of the Kenra Color Natural Series
should be incorporated into the formulation. Reference our gray coverage chart.
- When hair is 80% gray or more, a 20 Volume Developer is recommended.
- The recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes.
Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment
- Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level you are coloring to.
- Assess whether it will enhance the desired color shade and tone or if you will need
to add a neutralizing color to the formulation to control the underlying pigment.
Reference our underlying pigment chart.

Kenra Color Manual 15

4 Permanent Color - continued

Notes

STANDARD COLOR FORMULATION EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1: Lift
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B

Processing Time
30 Minutes

3: The level of lift is 1

4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor
(only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only
one level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying
pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is equal parts of Developer 20
Volume and 5B. Processing time is 30 minutes.

EXAMPLE 2: Deposit
The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB (1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 7
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB
3: The level of deposit is 1

Processing Time
30 Minutes

4: The percentage of gray is 0

5: The underlying pigment is not a factor as color
is being deposited, not lifted
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 7 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 6RB. Because it is
1 level darker, the formulation uses Developer 10 or 20 Volume and underlying pigment is not
a factor. The mixing ratio is 1 part 6RB plus 1 part Developer 10 or 20 Volume. Processing
time is 30 minutes.

16

Permanent Color
Notes

EXAMPLE 3: Gray Coverage

The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.
The client has 50% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B

Processing Time
40 Minutes

3: The level of lift is 1

4: The percentage of gray is 50
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with 50% gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only
1 level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment
does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is 1 part 5N plus 1 part 5B plus 2 parts
Developer 20 Volume (See Gray Coverage chart). Processing time is 40 minutes.

EXAMPLE 4: Underlying Pigment

The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 7 (3 levels lighter) with a brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 7B
3: The level of lift is 3

Processing Time
30 Minutes

4: The percentage of gray is 0

5: The underlying pigment is gold
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 7B. For three levels of lift, the formulation
requires Developer 40 Volume. To balance the exposed gold underlying pigment, a neutralizing color
(ash) is incorporated. The 7A helps to control the gold tones at a level 7 (See Underlying Pigment
chart). The mixing ratio is 1 part 7A plus 1 part 7B plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume (Note: The
amount of the neutralizing color can vary as desired). Processing time is 30 minutes.

Kenra Color Manual 17

4 Permanent Color - continued

BLONDING WITH KENRA COLOR
DID YOU KNOW?
Kenra Color Silver Metallics
allow you to display your
artistic abilities, creating cool,
silver appearances in lighter
colored hair while helping to
neutralize underlying pigment.
Available in 7SM, 8SM and
10SM and can be used on
pre-lightened hair to achieve
a cool, silver result.

Kenra Color Lightener Collection

Kenra Color offers two lightener

Developer Choices

Application

options to meet the needs of

10 Volume (3%)

On or off the scalp

20 Volume (6%)

On or off the scalp

30 Volume (9%)

Off the scalp

stylists and clients alike. Kenra

Color Lightener features a
blue-violet base to help control
unwanted warm tones when lifting

and Kenra Color No Ammonia Lightener is a fragrance-free, white powder formulated without
ammonia. Each dust-free lightener powder can remove natural or artificial pigments, both indirect
and direct to help eliminate unwanted tones such as ash or red and have a lifting strength of up to
7 levels in a single application. Extremely versatile, each lightener can be applied both on and off
the scalp with Kenra Color Permanent Developer 10 30 Volumes in different ratios for multiple
blonding effects 10 and 20 Volume on the scalp and 10, 20 and 30 Volume off the scalp. Each

Notes

mixtures creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free for ease of use.

KENRA COLOR LIGHTENER COLLECTION MIXING RATIO

One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing Time
Check result regularly during processing.
Do not exceed 60 minutes.

18

Permanent Color
High Lift

Notes

Kenra Color High Lift Series provides the ability to create superior single process blondes achieving
4-5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of underlying pigment. These four shades feature a
specially developed base to support lighter lifting and neutralization of underlying pigment, each
providing the same lifting strength with varying degrees of neutralization of underlying pigment.
Achieve best results on level 6 and above, but the series can also be used on level 5 for a warmer
end result. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color High Lift is one part
Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) for 45 minutes at room temperature.
Shade

Used on Natural Level

Developer Volume

Timing

End Result

Gold Natural

Level 6

30 or 40

45 Minutes

Golden Natural Blonde

Natural

Level 6

30 or 40

45 Minutes

Natural Blonde

Pearl Ash

Level 6

30 or 40

45 Minutes

Cooler Blonde

Ash

Levels 5 or 6

30 or 40

45 Minutes

Coolest Blonde

KENRA COLOR PERMANENT HIGH LIFT MIXING RATIO

One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)

1 + 2

Processing Time
45 Minutes

EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation

The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 10 (4 levels lighter) for a Golden Natural Blonde.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 6
2: The desired level / desired tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is pale yellow
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 6. The desired level and tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde. To achieve
this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is required to mix with the High Lift Gold Natural (See High
Lift chart). The underlying pigment at a level 10 is pale yellow and is addressed with the pale blue
violet neutralizing pigments. The mixing ratio is 1 part High Lift plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume.
Processing time is 45 minutes.

Kenra Color Manual 19

4 Permanent Color - continued

Notes

Blonding Creme
Kenra Color Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support. It features
the same specially developed base as the Kenra Color High Lift Series;
however, it does not contain any neutralizing pigment, therefore it will have
a warmer end result. Blonding Creme is extremely versatile and can be
used for a couple key haircoloring needs. First, it can be used for natural
accent effects, or highlights, when mixed one part Blonding Creme with two
parts Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). Second, Blonding Creme can be
added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation (up to of total color
portion) for added lift, achieving - 1 level of additional lift.
Blonding Creme

Mixing Ratio Formula

Formula%

For - 1
Level of Lift

1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme

1 oz. Permanent Developer
oz. Blonding Creme
(up to of color portion)

Natural
Highlighting

1 oz. Blonding Creme

2 oz. Permanent Developer

EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation for adding Blonding Creme to a permanent color formulation
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter) with a copper tone. The client
has 0% gray hair. The underlying pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is light gold

Processing Time
for Lift
30 Minutes
Processing Time for
Natural Highlighting
Up to 45 Minutes

Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 8C. To achieve this level of lift,
Developer 40 Volume is required. ounce of Blonding Creme is added to 1 ounce of Permanent
Coloring Creme for additional lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part
8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus ounce Blonding Creme. Processing time is 30 minutes.

20

Permanent Color
Color Boosters
Color Boosters are designed to create

Notes

custom, signature color shades.

Booster
Shade

Effect

They can be used in any Kenra Color

Gold

Additional gold reflection to any level

Permanent formulation for increased

Blue

Blue enhancement to level 5 and below

Violet

Violet reflection to level 6 and below

Copper

Added copper reflection to any level

Red

Enhanced red reflection to levels 7 and below

color vibrancy or as a stand alone

shade for special effect coloring on prelightened hair. Available in five shades,
each formulated with specifically
balanced color dyes to make it easy
to create signature haircolor or special
effects. For increased color vibrancy,
color boosters can be added into

Booster Use

Mixing Ratio Formula

For Increased
Vibrancy

1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme

any of your Kenra Color Permanent

1 oz. Permanent Developer

formulations up to of your color

Add up to oz. Color Booster

portion. For special effects, or a stand

1 oz. Color Booster

alone shade, our standard mixing

ratio and processing time is one part

Special Effects

1 oz. Permanent Developer

Apply to dry, previously lightened hair

Permanent Color Booster plus one part

Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room
temperature.

EXAMPLE: Increased Vibrancy

The client is a natural level 5. The desired level is 6 (1 level lighter) with a vibrant
copper tone. This client has 0% gray hair.
Mixing Ratio:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer 1040V (1:1) plus
Copper Booster above 1:1 mixing ratio.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 5
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6C
3: The level of lift is 1

Processing Time for

Increased Vibrancy
30 Minutes

4: The percentage of gray is 0

5: The underlying pigment is gold orange
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: Based on the natural level 5 hair, the Developer 20 Volume is needed to get 1 full level
of lift. The underlying pigment from a level 5 to a level 6 is gold orange (Note: The underlying
pigment does not need neutralization; it will add to the end result in a positive way). To achieve
the intense copper tone, the Copper Booster is added to the overall formula. Processing time
is 30 minutes.

Kenra Color Manual 21

5 Demi-permanent Color
Notes

KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT

PORTFOLIO
Deposit only color formulated without ammonia providing
multiple service options for maximum creativity.
1. Features Balancing Complex 5
2. Formulated without ammonia
3. Natural gray coverage up to 75%
4. Provides vibrant, long lasting results
5. Intense shine
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator
was specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Demipermanent Coloring Cremes allowing for complete oxidation
of all pigments in each and every color formulation. Our
standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color
Demi-permanent Color is one part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus
two parts Activator (1:2) for 5-25 minutes at room temperature.

1 + 2

22

KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIO

One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts
Activator (1:2)
Processing Time
5-25 Minutes

Application
Apply from scalp to ends

Demi-permanent Color
KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT SERVICE OPTIONS

Notes

Kenra Color Demi-permanent provides you multiple service options allowing for
maximum creativity and profitability.
Color Enhancing Service
Offer a color enhancing service to enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing
color tone. First determine the clients natural level, and then choose the appropriate tone
to accentuate, neutralize or deepen. Use the standard Kenra Color Demi-permanent
mixing ratio and processing time.
Color Equalizing
A color equalizing service is used anytime a client requires a permanent retouch service on
their new growth and needs a corresponding formula to be used on the mid-shaft to ends.

KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR MIXING RATIO

1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme plus 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)
Processing Time
15-25 Minutes

Application
Apply Permanent formula to new growth and process
for 15 minutes. Then, apply Demi-permanent formula
from mid-length to ends.

Tips:
- On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray.
Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair.
- Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation to dilute the deposit
amount of the pigment while providing maximum shine.

Kenra Color Manual 23

5 Demi-permanent Color - continued

Gray Blending
DID YOU KNOW?
A Clear Gloss Service is a
great option to offer your
client that regularly schedules
haircuts only or for your
highlighted blondes looking
for increased shine.

The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line delivers natural gray coverage up to 75% in a no ammonia
formulation. This is the perfect suggestion for clients who do not want to commit to a permanent
haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures optimal gray coverage.

1 + 1

KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT

GRAY BLENDING MIXING RATIO
Natural Series - One part combination of desired Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme shade and Natural Series plus one part Demipermanent Activator (1:1)
Natural Ash Series - One part desired Natural Ash Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme shade plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)

Notes

Processing Time
Up to 25 Minutes

Application
Apply to dry hair

Clear Glossing
Clear Glossing services add intense shine and increase manageability for previously
colored, lightened or highlighted hair. Kenra Color Demi-permanent Clear Gloss features
Balancing Complex 5; however, this deposit-only formulation is clear so it can be used on
any hair type or color for maximum shine and improved condition.

1 + 2

KENRA COLOR CLEAR GLOSSING SERVICE MIXING RATIO

One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts
Activator (1:2)
Processing Time
Up to 25 Minutes

Application
Apply glossing formula to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair

Toning
Toning Services are recommended to tone

Toning Service

Shade Selections

Warm Blonde Toning

10G / 8C / 8G

Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning

10A / 10V / 9PV

selections are available in warm and cool

Natural Blonde Toning

8GB / 9GB

options each ensuring maximum shine and

Beige / Blonde Toning

10B / 8B

unwanted warmth for highlighted or previously

lightened hair and can take as little as
five minutes at the shampoo bowl. Shade

condition on any pre-lightened hair.

24

Demi-permanent Color
Rapid Toners / Dimensional Toning

Notes

In addition to Kenra Color Demi-permanent Toning services,

Kenra Color also offers Demi-permanent Rapid Toners designed
to process and tone in 5 minutes or less. These no ammonia,
deposit-only colors have been formulated to enhance blonde
levels 8, 9 and 10 or to be a multi-dimensional tone refresher for
any haircolor. They offer versatility for adding multi-dimensional
tones in four warm or cool shades.

1 + 2

KENRA COLOR RAPID TONERS / DIMENSIONAL

TONING MIXING RATIO
1 oz. Demi-permanent Rapid Toner Coloring Creme plus
2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Processing Time
5 Minutes or less

Application
Apply from scalp to ends to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair

Rapid Toner Shade

Effect

Golden Copper

Toning with a gold copper reflection and result

Copper Red

Toning with a copper red reflection and result

Violet Pearl

Toning with a violet pearl reflection and result

Silver Violet

Toning with a silver violet reflection and result

Kenra Color Manual 25

6 Color Support
Notes

Color Corrective Services

Color Corrector
The Color Correcting System gently, quickly and safely
removes oxidative pigments without disturbing the
natural pigments in the hair. Its two-part, non-bleach
formulation mixes into an easy-to-apply cream and
can be used with or without heat. The removal process
can be repeated up to a total of three times and a color
service can be performed immediately after the color
correcting process.

KENRA COLOR COLOR CORRECTOR SYSTEM MIXING RATIO

One part Lotion 1 plus one part Lotion 2 mixed in equal parts
Processing Time
20 Minutes

Application
Apply to dry hair and process under
heat or at room temperature

Technical Application
1. Perform a strand test for accuracy and capability to remove unwanted color.
2. In a non-metallic bowl or mixing bottle, mix one part Lotion 1 with one part Lotion 2 (mixing ratio
1:1). The total amount of mixture required depends on the length of the hair that needs correction.
3. Apply a plastic cap over hair and process 20 minutes. (Heat option: Place under medium
heat to accelerate the process. Check periodically.)
4. Rinse hair thoroughly. Cleanse hair with an appropriate shampoo - Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
is recommended. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator or Permanent
Coloring Creme Developer 10 Volume to the hair for 3 minutes to neutralize. Rinse thoroughly.
5. If sufficient color has not been removed or if the haircolor has become darker, repeat the process
on damp, towel-dried hair. You can reapply color corrector up to 3 times in one day.
6. Shampoo and condition thoroughly. An appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner are
recommended. Dry the hair and proceed with your Kenra Color application.

26

Color Support
Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes

Notes

Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes are designed for use in color

corrective services to gently replace underlying pigments prior to
Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring and are ideal
for achieving results two or more levels darker than existing level.
These color cremes are specifically formulated to mix with water
for proper oxidation of the pigments and ideal product viscosity.
Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes support the consistent,
reliable results of Balancing Complex 5 and are available in three
intermixable shades to meet your color corrective needs.
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Red: when
coloring with all red or violet shades and
when coloring back using dark natural
shades (levels 1 - 3)
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Copper: when
coloring with all copper shades and
when coloring back using medium
natural shades (levels 3 - 6)
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Gold: when
coloring with all golden shades and
when coloring back using light natural
shades (levels 6 - 8)

Level Pale Yellow

Pre-Pigment Creme

10 Pale Yellow

None

09 Yellow Gold

None

08 Light Gold

Gold

07 Gold

Gold

06 Gold Orange

Gold and Copper

05 Orange

Copper

04 Dark Orange

Copper

03 Red Orange

Copper and Red or Red

01 Darkest Red Orange

Red

KENRA COLOR PRE-PIGMENT MIXING RATIO

One part Pre-Pigment Coloring Creme plus one part water

1 + 1

Processing Time
10 Minutes

Application
Spray hair with Kenra Color Porosity
Equalizing Spray and apply pre-pigment
color. Towel blot excess Pre-Pigment
Coloring Creme from hair. Apply desired
Kenra Color Permanent or Kenra
Color Demi-permanent formulation.

Kenra Color Manual 27

6 Color Support - continued

Notes

Color Support Products

Kenra Color offers a range of Color Support Products to maximize your
color experience and ensure Simply Stunning Results. Each of these tools
can be incorporated into any Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent
color service.
Porosity Equalizing Spray
Porosity Equalizing Spray ensures even pigment absorption on hair with
uneven or high porosity. This gentle, lightweight formula also assists in
conditioning and detangling the hair and is designed for use prior to a
Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent color service.

POROSITY EQUALIZING SPRAY

Application

Spray in sections and comb through for even distribution.

For fine hair, select 1 sections. For medium hair, select
sections. For thick hair, select sections.

Stain Removing Wipes

Stain Removing Wipes gently remove unwanted color on the
skin that may occur during color services. Formulated with
Aloe Vera to provide gentle use on all skin types.

STAIN REMOVING WIPES

Application

Open the package and remove the wipe. Gently

massage over the stain on the skin to remove color.
Follow with a damp cloth.

28

7 Technical Application Reference

Kenra Color makes it easier than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results. Reference our

Notes

technical application section for a synopsis of Kenra Color Permanent and Demi-permanent
service options with related technical support.

Kenra Color Permanent Service Options

Services

Formulation

Permanent
Coloring Creme
and Developer

Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)
Processing time: 30 Minutes, up to 40 Minutes processing time for gray coverage

Lightener

Formulation:
One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing time: Check result regularly during processing, do not exceed 60 minutes

High Lift

Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)
Processing time: 45 Minutes

Blonding Creme

Formulations:
For - 1 Level of Lift, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and
oz. Blonding Creme (up to of color portion).
For Natural Highlighting, mix 1 oz. Blonding Creme and 2 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for Lift, up to 45 Minutes for natural highlighting

Color Boosters

Formulations:
For increased vibrancy, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer
and add up to oz. Color Booster.
For special effects, mix 1 oz. Color Booster and 1 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for increased vibrancy

Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.

Kenra Color Manual 29

7 Technical Application Reference - continued

Notes

Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options

Services

Formulation

Enhancing

Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula from scalp to ends
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes

Equalizing

Formulation:
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)

Application:
> Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes
> Then apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends
Processing time: 15-25 Minutes
Gray Blending

Formulations:
Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and Natural Series
+ 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Natural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula to dry hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes

Clear Glossing

Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to dry or towel-dried hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes

Toning

Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hair
Processing time: 5-25 Minutes

Toning with
Rapid Toners

Formulation:
1 oz. Rapid Toner Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to freshly shampooed and conditioned damp hair.
Processing time: 5 Minutes or less

Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Demi-permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.

30

Notes

Kenra Color Manual 31

Notes

32

A color palette with no boundaries.

KENRA COLOR
Need more information?
We are here to help.
(800) 930-7777
technicalsupport@kenra.com
kenracolor.com

k e n r a p r o f e s s i o n a l . c o m

Volume 2 Item #96006-0414