Ingredients in Hair Color These products do not contain ammonia so
the natural pigment can't be lightened.
Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from
a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in
the face of other chemists who found the
development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of
their time, French chemist Eugene
Schuller created the first safe commercial hair
coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new
chemical, paraphenylenediamine, and provided
the foundation of his company, the French
Harmless Hair Dye Company. A year later, the
name was changed to one that is more familiar
today -- L'Oreal. L'Oreal, one of the hair product
giants, has grown steadily over the years; the
company credits advanced and applied research of
new product development and expansion into
markets around the world with its global success.
The two main chemical ingredients involved in any
coloring process that lasts longer than 12
shampoos are:
 Hydrogen peroxide (also known as the
developer or oxidizing agent) -- This
ingredient, in varying forms and strengths,
helps initiate the color-forming process and
creates longer-lasting color. The larger the
volume of the developer, the greater the
amount of sulfur is removed from the hair.
Loss of sulfur causes hair to harden and
lose weight. This is why, for the majority of
hair coloring, the developer is maintained at
30% volume or less.
 Ammonia -- This alkaline allows for
lightening by acting as a catalyst when the
permanent hair color comes together with
the peroxide. Like all alkalines, ammonia
tends to separate the cuticle and allow the
hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair.
In addition, various types of alcohols, which can
also dry the hair, are present in most hair color.
(Check out this official ingredient list for a hair color
formula.)
 Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This
product adds color without changing natural
color dramatically. The hair color contains
tiny color molecules that enter the hair's
cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your
hair's cortex. They don't interact with your
natural pigments. And since the molecules
are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft
after several shampoos, leaving the hair as
it was before treatment. This level generally
lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50
percent gray, enhances your natural color
and leaves no roots. This hair coloring won't
lighten your hair color because it contains
no ammonia or peroxide.
 Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This
product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26
shampoos. In this process, pre-color
molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter
the cortex where they then partner to create
medium-sized color molecules. Their larger
size means they take longer to wash out.
However, it contains a small amount of
peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but
noticeable, color enhancement. It also
blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and
demi-permanent colors can become
permanent on permed or already-colored
hair!)
 Level 3, permanent color -- This is what
you need for a more significant color
change (to go from black to blond, you'll still
need to go with a process called double
process blonding and it'd be wise to get
this it done professionally). In this level, both
ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny
molecules enter all the way into the cortex,
where they react and expand to a size that
cannot be washed out. Your hair actually
has to grow out over time. This product acts
to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form
a new base and then to add a new
permanent color. The end result is a
combination of your natural hair pigment
and the new shade you chose. That means
the color may appear different on you than
on someone else using the same color.
(That's why the "strand test" is so important
-- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups
of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to
eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color
growing at half an inch per month from your
scalp.
What expert agencies say
Several national and international agencies study
substances in the environment to determine if they
can cause cancer. The American Cancer Society
looks to these organizations to evaluate the risks
based on evidence from laboratory, animal, and
human research studies.
Some of these expert agencies have classified hair
dyes or their ingredients as to whether they can
cause cancer.
The International Agency for Research on
Cancer (IARC) is part of the World Health
Organization (WHO). Its major goal is to identify
causes of cancer. IARC has concluded that
workplace exposure as a hairdresser or barber is
“probably carcinogenic to humans,” based on the
data regarding bladder cancer. (The evidence for
other types of cancer is considered mixed or
inadequate.) But IARC considers personal hair dye
use to be “not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity
to humans,” based on a lack of evidence from
studies in people.
The National Toxicology Program (NTP) is
formed from parts of several different US
government agencies, including the National
Institutes of Health (NIH), the Centers for Disease
Control and Prevention (CDC), and the Food and
Drug Administration (FDA). The NTP has not
classified exposure to hair dyes as to its potential to
cause cancer. However, it has classified some
chemicals that are or were used in hair dyes as
“reasonably anticipated to be human carcinogens.”
The hairy chemicals
To permanently colour the hair, hair dyes use a
combination of the
chemicals ammonia and hydrogen peroxide.
The hydrogen peroxide works by bleaching out
the natural colour and releasing oxygen, which
allows chemical reactions to take place.
The ammonia works by breaking down the outer
cuticle around the hair shaft, allowing the other
chemicals to enter the hair, where the colour
development can take place.
These chemicals are quite harsh and can harden
and thin the hair, and they're also thought to irritate
the skin, eyes and respiratory system.
Other known irritants include:
 ethanolamine (monoethanolamine,
diethanolamine etc), often used as an
alternative in ammonia-free products
 resorcinol, which can sometimes cause
allergies and can be irritating
 sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which may
dry or irritate your skin
 parabens, preservatives often questioned
for their potential oestrogenic effects.
They're not widely used in hair dye
products, so excluding them isn't a strong
selling point
 lead acetate, found in hair colour restorers
rather than dyes. Lead is a neurotoxin and a
suspected carcinogen. Studies have found
that very little is absorbed into the blood
through the scalp, though long-term
cumulative effects haven't been
studied. Bismuth citrate is sometimes used
instead of lead acetate in hair colour
restorers, and is thought to be less toxic
 para-phenylenediamine (PPD), toluene-
2,5-diamine (TD) and toluene-2,5-diamine
sulphate (TDS) can cause allergies.
Symptoms range from a burning sensation
and redness or rash, to weeping blisters,
chemical burns and severe swelling of the
face. Anaphylactic shock is rare but it
happens.
Allergic reaction
The symptoms of an allergic reaction to hair dye
range from a burning sensation and redness or
rash, to weeping blisters, chemical
burns and severe swelling of the
face. Anaphylactic shock is rare but it can
happen. The allergic reaction can occur at any time
- from the first time you use dye or suddenly, after
many years of trouble-free use. These same
allergens can be found in some henna hair
products and henna tattoos.
In a CHOICE test of home hair dye from 2007, five
of the 113 triallists reported reactions to the dyes
such as an itchy or stinging scalp, an itchy
rash on the sides of the face and sensitivity to
heat. Of the hair dyes tested, the ammonia and
peroxide-free product delivered disappointing
results.
Skin patch test for allergy
1. PPD
PPD is short for para-phenylenediamine. It is used
as a dye for dark color shades and is made from
coal tar, a petroleum-derived chemical that includes
benzene,naphthalene, phenols, aniline, and other
chemicals. It is also used as a wood preservative,
and contact with skin is best to be avoided.
Research states PPD in combination with
Hydrogene Peroxide is very toxic and can lead to
cancer.
2. Hydrogene Peroxide
Hydrogene Peroxide is mostly used to stip the
natural color away, before applying the hair dye
color. It is said to change the hair structure and
make it brittle stripping it of its natural luster.
3. Ammonia
Ammonia is used to open up the hair’s cuticle (the
outer layer of the hair) so the dyes can come into the
shaft (the inside of the hair). It may produce caustic
burns and lung irritation.
4. DMDM Hydantoin
DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative that slowly
releases the toxic formaldehyde chemical, the longer
it sits on the shelves. It may cause tissue irritation
and affect the immune system. DMDM Hydantoin
kills off fungi, yeasts and bacteria and it’s also used
in herbicides, floor waxes, polymers, color
photography, latex paints, cutting oils, adhesives,
copying paper, and inks.
5. Parabens
The two most common parabens preservatives are
Methylparabens and Propylparabens. They are
widely used in hair care products and can produce
severe allergies and skin irritation.
6. Lead Acetate
Lead Acetate is used as a color additive for the dark
shade hair dyes. It is said to cause anemia and
produce neurological problems.
7. Resorcinol
Resorcinol is a toxic dye that can cause scalp
irritation, and is an allergen affecting the endocrine
system.
The best way to avoid these harmful chemicals is to
buy brands that use 100% natural hair dyes. One
needs to read the label carefully though, as some
brands may still mix natural dyes with chemical
preservatives and other chemical dyes for a faster
and longer permanence.
You can also make your own using herbs and other
products found at home. But this requires time and
you may need to apply it frequently before achieving
a darker shade of color.
These common dye chemicals are associated with
negative health effects. Ammonia is a respiratory
and asthma irritant, a potential endocrine disruptor,
and is persistent in the environment, meaning it
sticks around. P-phenylenediamine is associated
with birth defects, skin irritation, liver and blood
toxicity, and allergic reaction. It is restricted for use
in the European Union.
P-phenylenediamine is one of many coal-tar colors,
which are derived from petroleum. Coal-tar dyes
have been associated with a number of health
effects like eye injury and allergic reactions. Coal
tars themselves have been associated with multiple
forms of cancer, and some coal-tar dyes have been
found to cause cancer in animals. Despite these
problems, unlike most color additives, coal-tar dyes
do not need approval from the FDA.
Many dyes can also contain toluene, a well-
established neurotoxin, linked to birth
defects, pregnancy loss, and allergic reaction. They
can also contain resorcinol, a chemical linked
to endocrine disruption, meaning it impacts our
body’s normal hormonal functioning and signaling.
Lead acetate, another common ingredient, is linked
to neurotoxicity. Conventional dyes can contain
many other harmful chemicals like DMDM
hydantoin, methylisothiazolinone, and fragrance.
Here is the list of 22 hair dye chemicals banned
by the European Commission.
6-Methoxy-2,3-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
2,3-Naphthalenediol
2,4-Diaminodiphenylamine
2,6-Bis(2-Hydroxyethoxy)-3,5-Pyridinediamine
2-Methoxymethyl-p-Aminophenol
4,5-Diamino-1-Methylpyrazole and its HCl salt
4,5-Diamino-1-((4-Chlorophenyl)Methyl)-1H-
Pyrazole Sulfate
4-Chloro-2-Aminophenol
4-Hydroxyindole
4-Methoxytoluene-2,5-Diamine and its HCl salt
5-Amino-4-Fluoro-2-Methylphenol Sulfate
N,N-Diethyl-m-Aminophenol
N,N-Dimethyl-2,6-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
N-Cyclopentyl-m-Aminophenol
N-(2-Methoxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine and its
HCl salt
2,4-Diamino-5-methylphenetol and its HCl salt
1,7-Naphthalenediol
3,4-Diaminobenzoic acid
2-Aminomethyl-p-aminophenol and its HCl salt
Solvent Red 1 (CI 12150)
Acid Orange 24 (CI 20170)
Acid Red 73 (CI 27290)
Do You Know the Basic Components in Hair
Colorants?
Some color-building chemicals are found in semi-
permanent products, however their main use is in
permanent hair coloring products. If a generic tube
of oxidative hair color is analyzed, eight basic
components can be found:
1. Base Cream
The base cream is in most cases an emulsion of
an oil-component and a water-component. Two
types of emulsions are frequently used in hair
dyes, for example an oil-in-water emulsion having
the water-component at the outer phase, and a
water-in-oil emulsion having the oil-component at
the outer phase.
Fatty alcohols, emulsifying agents and surfactants
are typical ingredients of the base cream.
In some cases a gel formulation can also be used
for a permanent hair dye.
2. Color Precursors
Color precursors are small-uncolored molecules
that can penetrate into the hair in order to build
big color molecules. There is a distinction
between developer precursor and modifier
precursor: developer precursors are sometimes
called para-components and modifier precursors
are also known as meta-components.
Typical examples of color precursors are para-
toluylenediamenesulphate, resorcinol and meta-
aminophenol.
3. Dyestuffs
Dyestuffs are pre-developed color molecules.
These are mainly used in semi-permanent hair
 colors and also in some permanent dyes in order
to provide hair color with a vibrant reflex.
4. Alkalizing Agents
The alkalizing agent is responsible for opening
the cuticle layer of the hair so that active
ingredients like color precursors can penetrate
into the hair. A second function of the alkalizing
agent is to catalyze the oxidative reaction
between color precursors and hydrogen peroxide.
Ammonia is the most common alkalizing agent.
5. Caring Agents
Integrating caring agents into a permanent hair
color with a high pH-value can be difficult. This is
because most traditional caring ingredients are
not active at this pH-level, however some
polymeric or caring ingredients or some caring
ingredients derived from silicone can be
successfully integrated in the formulations.
6. Antioxidants
Antioxidants help to prevent pre-oxidation of color
precursors during storage within a tube of hair
cream. Sodium sulfite, Sodiumdithionate is a
typical reducing agent. Ascorbic acid or vitamin C
also acts as an antioxidant.
7. Complexing Agents
These ingredients ‘envelop’ potential metal
impurities within the coloring cream, thus
preventing an unwanted reaction with hydrogen
peroxide.
8. Perfume
Perfume is added in order to disguise the
unpleasant odor of ammonia.

Crepe paper is basically just tissue paper with

a sizing agent. Your question was difficult to
answer because a lot of chemicals are used in
paper manufacturing, and it was difficult to decide
which one could cause this reaction. Furthermore,
many of these chemicals are undisclosed pigments
from places like China, so this reaction could
basically be any chemical that creates a color.

That being said, some common chemicals used in

crepe paper manufacturing are succinic
anhydride, rosin, diketene, and sodium hydroxide.
The first three chemicals are acids, and the last one
is a strong base. All of them react strongly with
water, and these reactions are exothermic. Next,
the acids and bases are going to react with the
other chemicals in saliva, which generally has a pH
between 6.2 and 7.4. So, when these chemicals
come into contact with your saliva, which is water-
based, you get a heat-producing reaction. The
burning sensation could also be a result of the
H3O+ produced by acids reacting with your taste
buds, in a similar manner to how spicy foods burn
your tongue. Or it could be oral allergy syndrome, if
you have a mild allergy to one of the hundreds of
possibly unsafe chemicals that are used to
manufacture crepe paper. Finally, it's possible that
one of the dyes is mildly toxic, and the burning
sensation in your tongue is your body's response to
a toxin.