AD355 Builders Manual Example, v 0.

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06-June-2007 By “Brastic”

- Main disclaimer
Always keep safety on your mind. There is never any reason, time constraints or financial to
take any short cuts on safety. Basic common sense must be used at all times. You will be
working around equipment that can harm or kill you. This sheet of random writing is provided "as
is" without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. You should not assume that this
manual is error-free or that it will be suitable for any imaginable purpose.

- Purpose
This manual was written to help purchase and build of an AD355 kit. Do not assume that this
manual is perfect or the only way to build this kit. The glory of kit cars is that if you have an idea
and the resources, you can make it happen. Do not let any one hold you back. The information in
this manual was gathered as a beginning resource. Remember that this is your car.

- Traps
The only things that can hold back the completion of the perfect car; money and time. Do not
let this discourage you in any way.
The more authentic you want the car the more it is going to cost. It's funny how you can build
the car 90% authentic for a set cost, but have to double the cost to get to 99%. Before you start
the kit decide how you want the car to look and then budget yourself. If you do not have the
budget, then you will need to reevaluate. The base kit is mostly a bolt on build. Each option you
add bumps your cost by about five grand and 100 hours of build time. This includes options like
convertible, 3" stretch, original window, rear rockers, larger door scoops, and the engine choice
has no ceiling on cost. If you are not an experience builder, then the best advice you can get is to
stick with the base kit and build around the stock Fiero interior and drive train. You can always do
the interior and engine later.

- People to thank

Table of Contents:
Introduction
1. Parts list
2. Picking a Fiero
3. Stripping the Fiero
4. Sell all non needed parts from Fiero
5. The cuts
6. Stretch (optional)
7. Mounting AD 355 body panels
8. Electrical
9. Muffler and tips
10. Prepping for Paint
11. Interior
12. Brakes
13. Engine
14. Transmission
15. Stereo Component Locations
16. Rebuilding the Fiero

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Introduction
I would not call the build terribly hard, but time consuming. Go back and read the Traps
section again. Build times will vary with builders skill set, build add-ons and parts resource. An
experience builder can build the standard kit in less than 200 hours. If you have never built this kit
and your name is not John Watson, then the 200 hours do not apply. The average shade tree
mechanic should take between 300 and 600+ hours to build. Now think about brackets. You
cannot over bracket a fiberglass car. The more brackets you have, the less the fiberglass is going
to flex, or make noise. The rule of thumb is one bracket for each bolt into the fiberglass. Use stiff
metal. If you can bend it by hand, it is not strong enough. Metal thicker than 3/8" or 1/2" conduit
will work for making brackets. Use 1/2" conduit from brackets longer than 12". It is easy to work
with and very stiff. Use flashing washers on all bolts that touch fiberglass. Never over tighten bolts
that touch fiberglass. Over tightening bolts that go though fiberglass can lead to cracks.

1. Parts list
1.0 AD 355 kit
1.0.1 Non stretched panels. This is the easiest body coupe to assemble. The body panels
assemble with the minimum amount of chassis modification.

1.0.2 Stretched body panels. This will be more work.

1.0.2.1 Frame stretch. This is done by cutting between the firewall and the engine bay,
then adding 2.75" of box tubing and welding the car back together. Others have written to do this.
Somehow the idea of cutting up a professionally designed chassis and hoping the all goes well
doe not settle easy with me. I have too many cars not put back together.
1.0.2.2 Cradle stretch. This is done by dropping the cradle and drilling the cradle holes
2.75" back. Then cutting out and welding in a new strut attachment section.

1.0.3 Convertible. There is nothing like driving a convertible and the kit is cheaper to boot.
The frame will have to be braced before you cut off the roof or the chassis will flex and the doors
will not open or close. Now the Fiero was never designed to be a convertible so safety will be a
concern. Modern convertibles must be able to have the A-Pillar support the weight of the car.
Furthermore, I believe that all cars with out roofs need a roll bar.

1.0.4 Extended Windshield. The Fiero windshield looks nothing like a F355. There is a
person who makes windshields that use the stock Fiero A-Pillar and roof line, but extends forward
4". This windshield really makes the kit look like a real F355. Plan at least 100 hours for this
modification. The hood will need to be cut, the dash panel extended and the hood has to be back
filled because the windshield is just a little wider.

1.1 Turn, side and rear lights (2 front turn, 2 yellow side markers, 2 red side markers, and 4
rear lights)
1.1.1 Real Ferrari 355 lights (fit the kit perfectly, but can be expensive) <--- Highly
recommended!!!!
1.1.1.1 The OEM F355 side marker lights are not expensive and fit the kit perfectly
1.1.1.2 Yellow front turn signals lights can be found from Ferrari owners who have
swapped out for the European white. Check the Ferrari boards.

1.1.2 Non Ferrari lights

1.1.2.1 Camry front turn lights (must modify kit to make fit)
1.1.2.2 Corvette rear lights
1.1.2.3 Terrible knock offs that will fade quickly

1.2 Plugs for OEM Ferrari Lights

1.2.1 Bosch part number 85850 for front turn signals. The OEM F355 front turn signals use
the standard Bosch fuel injection plug. The same plugs on the Fiero fuel injectors work perfectly.
These plugs are very easy to find in junk yards.
1.2.2 For the rear lights, ACD# PT1136,Ê lc 16, GM#15306009,Ê Gr. 2.530

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 1.3 Pop up head lights.
1.3.1 The 91-95 Saturn pop up head lights were designed into this kit and will be the
easiest to install. The kit comes with two head light trays that the Saturn head light buckets will
bolt to. The down side is that they do not look OEM. The small lights really stand out.
1.3.1.1 The 1990 Cavalier head lights adapted to the Saturn head light box almost look
OEM.

1.3.1.2 The Saturn pop up units will plug into the 87 or 88 Fiero wire harness. The two
wires will have to be switch or the up down will the opposite of what you want. A quick cut and
solder is all that you need to do. If you are not using an 87 or 88 Fiero, you are going to need to
get the pop up wire harness from one. The harness is the dual wires to each bucket and a black
box that is on the drives side of the car next the pop up bucket on the outside of the chassis.

1.3.2 OEM F355 headlight buckets. They are expensive and harder to adapt. Since most of
your driving of this car will be with the lights down, think long and hard before you spend the
money and time on OEM lights.

1.3.3 Other pop up lights can be adapted.

1.4 Toyota MR2 MKII 91-95 rear window (try to find one with out the Toyota logo on it, after-
market works best)

1.5 Ferrari F355 gas door

1.6 Wheels and tires (many options here)

1.6.1 Real Ferrari 355 wheels (expensive and must use wheel adapters)

1.6.2 HP Racing

1.6.3 HP Racing EVO 16 spoke

1.6.4 TSW

1.6.5 Many, many others

1.7 Widening the suspension

1.7.1 Spacers (do not go cheep here!!!)

1.7.2 Wide track Suspension

1.7.2.1 Held - Many people have used the Held wide track suspension with good
results.
1.7.2.2 RCC
1.7.2.3 NAERC - sells a wide track suspension that uses C5 knuckles. Although
expensive, this would give you 13" and a much, much stronger bearings. Fiero front bearings are
not known for their strength or are easy or cheep to replace. This is worst for the 88s.
1.7.2.4 West Coast Fieros
1.7.2.5 Custom Made

1.7.3 Both wide track and spacers. This option is for people who want to change the bolt
pattern.

1.8 Quarter windows (or Lexan)

1.8.1 Read Ferrari (fits perfectly) (recommended)

1.8.2 Plastic (Lexan or Plexiglas is cheaper but scratches).

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 1.8.3 Fiberglass in and paint gloss black (really cheap)

1.9 Side Mirrors

1.9.1 Real F355 mirrors. Nothing looks like the real deal, than the real deal. They are
terribly expensive and you will still need to find away to install them.

1.9.2 Reproduction mirrors can look perfectly like OEM mirrors and will be a lot cheaper.

1.9.3 Corvette (mounts to the door). This looks like it could have been OEM, but they look
nothing like real F355 mirrors.

1.9.4 Hyundai Tiberon

1.9.5 90s 300ZX mirrors have the right angle at the base to fit to the Fiero

1.9.6 Nissan Altima might also work

1.10 Front Mount Battery Box

1.10.1 V8 Archie sells a box

1.10.2 Norms Fiberglass sells a box.

1.10.3 West Coast Fiero sells a box.

1.10.4 Use #2 welding wire. Welding wire is flexible, which makes installing it much easier.

1.11 Door handles

1.11.1 Poppers
1.11.1.1 The solenoid is easy to install at the bottom of the door in the vertical. The
Fiero even has a hole in the latch to attach to.

1.11.2 Mechanical linkage. It has been done by cutting a hole in the side vent.

1.12 Fiero Chilton manual. You will use or need this in the future.

1.13 Hardware (Just buy new nuts and bolts. It will save you time when assembling the body
panels. It’s a waste time to get out the old jar of random nuts and bolts. It also helps to have all
the nuts and bolts the same size!!! Make sure to use grade 5 or higher. (Anything less than grade
5 is garbage.)
1.13.1 Boxes of 1/4" nuts, washers, flash washers
1.13.2 Bolts 3/4", 1", 2.5" to 3" (lots of each)
1.13.3 Blue lock tight
1.13.4 Red lock tight (do not use the permanent lock tight until the car is painted, you will
be taking panels on and off during the build)

1.14 12" of 2" fuel filler pipe and 12" of 1/2" fuel pipe

1.15 Lots of latex or nitrile gloves

1.16 Tools
1.16.1 Full wrench and socket set
1.16.2 Wire strippers
1.16.3 Screw drivers
1.16.4 Lots of Clamps
1.16.5 Rotary tool (Dermal)

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 1.16.6 Air compressor with cut off wheel and grinder attachments
1.16.7 Vice
1.16.8 Hand drill
1.16.9 Drill bits (quick release bits are highly recommended) (get new bits) (get extra 1/4"
drill bits)
1.16.10 Chop saw for cutting metal brackets (A small one will work)
1.16.11 Drill Press (This tool make life a lot easier)
1.16.12 Saws-all
1.16.13 Metal Saws-all blades (lots of them)
1.16.14 Soldering iron
1.16.15 Heat-shrink tubing
1.16.16 Torque wrench
1.16.17 Brake (a cheap 20" works well)

1.17 Fiberglass resin, cloth and matte.

1.18 Bondo or other filler

1.19 Kitty hair (short strand)

1.20 Safety
1.20.1 Eye protection (do not be stupid. You will be cutting metal and you only get two
eyes in life)

1.20.2 Mask (paper will do, but I liked having the full carbon filter mask so I did not have to
smell the fiberglass resin)

1.20.3 First aid kit (bleed almost everyday I worked on the car)

1.21 New battery (Chances are the battery in the Fiero you have is old and will give out any
day)

1.22 3000GT or eclipse tailgate hinges. Other hinges might work. You can get new ones from
a Mitsubishi dealer or used ones from a junk yard.

1.23 Fog lights 4" round

1.23.1 OEM F355 (expensive and no one will notice)

1.23.2 APC 505007C (cheap, but works)

1.23.3 Dodge Durango

1.23.4 Any 4" round fog light. Found in many OEM applications.

2. Picking a Fiero
2.1 1984 first year, messed up wiring, only 4 cylinders

2.2 1988 best for suspension and brakes (Not recommend. By the time you widen the
suspension or change the brakes, the advantage of the 1988 is lost. The only real advantage is
the cheap C4 12" West Coast Fiero brake upgrade. There is no reason to pay more for a 1988 for
a kit car build.)

2.3 The 85-87 are good if you are going to switch suspension and brakes anyways (aqua, fix
the bump steer)
2.3.1 The 87-88 have the correct wiring module for the headlights.

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 2.4 Look for rust...everywhere

2.5 The V6 is a lot faster than the 4 banger. If you are going to change the engine, then the
donor engine means less.

2.6 Special note. It is better to start with a running and driving car. You can find problems
easier when you can drive the donor. It is usually better to buy a $2000 running Fiero than a $500
one that ends up taking $3000 to get back on the road. The Fiero is over 20 years old now.
Expect that wear items will need to be replaced. Having a running car is much nicer to have
during the build. You really want to drive the car around after the build and before it goes to paint.

3. Stripping the Fiero

3.0 Take "before" pictures

3.1 Use plastic bags and permanent market all nuts and bolts <--- do this!!

3.2 Remove Windshield

3.3 Remove hood, bumpers, door panels, deck lid, rear clip, fenders and quarters

3.4 Drill out rivets from running boards

3.5 Remove plastic bumper things from front and rear

3.6 Remove front metal bar

3.7 Remove rear window

3.8 Take "after" pictures

4. Sell all non needed parts from Fiero (good luck)

4.1 Rear GT Lights

4.2 Sun Roof

4.3 Rear Lights

5. The Cuts
5.1 Cut the Bi-Pillar for rear quarter window
5.1.1 Cut B-Pillar until you cannot see it when rear clip is on the car. The B-Pillar will be
about two inches wide after the cut. (Get use to taking the rear clip on and off many times, be
careful and take your time)

5.2 Cut front radiator mount to fit Saturn lights

5.2.1 Install light cover and cut away until the light sits flush
5.2.2 From the front of the car you will see four bolts on each side that the front bumper
bars use to be. The outside bolts will be cut off.

5.3 Cut spare tire / radiator plastic for front mount battery box

5.4 Cutting the doors.

5.4.1 Place rear clip on car and slowly close the door. Cut away the outside edge until the
door shuts.

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 5.5 Pounding the bottom of the door.
5.5.1 Loosely install the fenders and the rocker panels with the doors open. Roll up the
windows half way. Replacing the windows is a major pain, so do not skip this step. Now pound
the bottom of the Fiero door with a mallet or hammer until the door will shut. It will take some
good pounding. In the middle of the door is a support. You might have to cut it out and weld it
after the pounding adjustment.

6. Stretch (optional)
6.1 Two ways to do a stretch
6.1.1 Cut and extend the Fiero from the fire wall
6.1.1.1 There have been many writings on this subject. Search the internet or find the
article from the kit car magazines.

6.1.2 Move the cradle back

6.1.2.1 Move the cradle 2 7/8" back and drill new bolt holes. Then build new strut
mount.

7. Mounting AD 355 body panels

7.1 Place rear clip on car. (Use sheet metal screws to attach)
7.1.1 Align A-Pillars, and the rear clip to the inner part of the doors.
7.1.2 Align B-Pillar and rear door area. The rear clip should (not must) be flush around the
door area.
7.1.3 Find rocker panels, rear bumper and rear wheels. Get a couple of friends to hold
parts. Align the rear bumper to the wheel arch of the rear clip. The curve in the bumper should
align with the curve of the rear clip and have two people hold the bumper in place. Loosely hold
the rocker panels in place. Drill out the holes in the rear clip for the rocker panels. Now take the
rear wheel and make sure that it does not hit the rear bumper or running board. Put sheet metal
screws into lower part of rear clip to door to keep everything aligned. Put sheet metal screws at
the end of the A-Pillars. The checking of the rear tires at this step will alleviate the wheels hitting
either the running boards or rear bumper in the future.

7.2 Install the doors. Three bolts in the front and two in the rear. (loose)

7.3 Install the fenders. There are four screws on the top where the Fiero fenders bolted in. At
this step, you should trust the holes in the fender as being correct. (loose)

7.3 Install the rocker panels. The front of the rocker panel will align with the fender. Drill a 1/4"
hole though the bottom of the fender, though the running board and install a nut and bolt. (loose)

7.4 Build adjustable lower fender bracket. This bracket will bolt the fender and rocker to the
Fiero. This bracket should be very stiff (use angle iron) and have vertical and horizontal
adjustments. This bracket will have to be angled forward about 20 degrees to not interfere with
the door opening.

7.5 Align rear clip to doors to fenders with 3/16 to 1/4" spacing. Take your time here!!!! (large
paint sticks are the perfect size for this. Get lots)
7.5.1 Make sure the doors open without hitting the fender. You might need to trim away the
inner lip of the fender to get the doors to open. Do not trim over the edge or any gel coat. (This
will take time, do not rush and get it right the first time.)
7.5.2 The holes on the fenders are approximate. Try using them first and make little etches
with a Dermal if you have to.

7.6 Install the front bumper mount bar

7.7 Install lower hood panel

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 7.7.1 Reuse the Fiero hood hinge and bolts. Bolt the hinge to the hood (DO NOT OVER
TIGHTEN) and then to the bumper mount bar.
7.7.2 Reuse the Fiero latch from the Fiero hood. You might need to add a spacer between
the hood and the latch.
7.7.3 Align the hinge to open and shut easily. Having two people do this is a must. There is
nothing worst than trying to open the hood by yourself, having it twist, and hearing that fiberglass
cracking sound.

7.8 Place the upper hood panel on the car

7.9 Install front bumper to fenders

7.9.1 Use squeeze clamps on the front bumper edges to the fenders
7.9.2 Lift the front of the bumper and drill from the back though the mount bar though the
bumper. Install bolts to hold the front of bumper

7.10 Align the upper hood panel edges to 3/16" to 1/4"

7.10.1 Use two sheet metal screws to hold the hood panels together. The screws should
be away from the edges and are only for alignment.

7.11 Go back and double check all of the spacing

7.11.1 Check rear clip to doors to fenders and running boards to hood to front bumper to
header bar to hood <--- In this order.
Note: This is critical step. Do not get frustrated and rush it. Fixing any alignment issues in
the future will take many hours. What could be done here in an hour will take 8 hours after the
hood is bonded.

7.12 Repeat 7.11 again!!!

7.13 Bond upper hood panel to lower hood panel

7.13.1 Use liquid nails on bumps near the middle of the lower hood.
7.13.2 Mix up a lot of slow cure fiberglass resin with glass in it.
7.13.3 We used quick set Kitty-hair. The good news is that it is cheep and easy to buy.
The bad news is that you have less than three minutes to mix, spread on hood and apply. It
worked ok, but was not the best solution.

7.14 Bonding the rear end

7.14.1 Place MR2 rear window into rear clip. Do not glue the rear window. Fiberglass is
flexible and if you glue the rear panel to the rear clip with out the window, the window might not fit
in the future. This is the imperial testing that John has done. Please do not argue, just put the
window in and make sure that the window stays in place till you are done with the rear end.
7.14.1.1 There are two tabs on the rear window. Etch the rear clip with the Dermal until
the window fits. Do not try to cut or shave the tempered rear window. It will shatter.

7.14.2 Install the outer tail lights to the inner panel.

7.14.2.1 Drill the holes in the inner panel a little larger than the bolts of the tail lights.
You will need to adjust the lights later.

7.14.3 Trim panels to contour of rear clip

7.14.4 Use sheet metal screw to Y or V area to hold inner panel

7.14.5 Align outer panel (or Challenge Grill)

7.14.5.1 The lights should be centered to the rear panel and stick out a bit.

7.14.6 Spot Kitty-hair Bondo the inner panel to the rear clip

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 7.14.6.1 Make sure to remove the outer panel and tail lights before you spot bond the
inner panel

7.14.7 Install the outer tail lights and check the alignment to the outer panel.

7.14.8 Double check the alignment between the inner and outer panels with the tail lights
installed again.

7.14.9 Remove the outer panel and tail lights

7.14.10 Fiberglass the rear clip to the inner panel. Three or four layers should be enough.

7.14.11 Install all tail lights

7.14.12 Install and outer panel

7.14.13 Align panels and tail lights again.

7.14.14 Build brackets to hold the rear clip

7.14.14.1 Build brackets from the rear bumper bolt to the car. (build to both bolts if you
want.)
7.14.14.2 Use an angle bracket between the rear clip and the Fiero trunk.
7.14.14.3 Install two bolts on each side of the inner deck lid area to the Fiero. A stack of
spacers of about 3/4" will be needed. Use 80s Toyota rubber hood bumpers over the heads of the
bolts to align the deck lid level.

This section needs more work

7.15 Install the rear deck lid
7.15.1 Install the 3000GT or eclipse rear deck hinges to the deck lid
7.15.1.1 Epoxy a 3/4" x 3' square metal bar to deck lid
7.15.1.2 Epoxy the hinges directly to the deck lid (not recommended)
7.15.2 Install the hinges to the deck lid and then to the hinge plate. Make sure that the
deck lid opens and shuts.
7.15.3 Place the deck lid with the hinges and the hinge plate into the car and align the back
of the deck lid to the back of the rear clip. Make sure the spoiler lips line up.
7.15.4 Align the top of the deck lid to the top of the rear clip and the tail section to the back
of the rear clip. It is very important to align the back "lip" area perfectly. Do not worry about the
gap between the front of the deck lid to the area below the rear window. (unless it is too short.)
7.15.5 Build two brackets from the bottom Fiero deck lib bolt to the hinge plate.
7.15.6 Spot kitty hair the hinge plate to the rear clip from the inside of the car. It is a good
idea to place paper over the engine or anywhere else you might drip kitty hair. It is also a good
idea to make sure that the deck lid still opens and closes.
7.15.6 After the kitty hair has dried, check the alignment again. Also check the open close
action. If you are happy, then fiberglass with mat the hinge plate to the rear clip.
7.15.7 Fill in the gap between the rear clip and the deck lid.
7.15.7.1 Wrap the large paint sticks with plastic wrap and place them all around the
deck lid.
7.15.7.2 Make the gap 3/16" all the way around.
7.15.7.3 Make sure paint sticks are on the deck lid with light pressure.
7.15.7.3 Fill in with Bondo or kitty hair from the rear clip to the paint sticks.
7.15.7.4 Once dry, remove the paint sticks and sand the Bondo till smooth.
7.15.6 Latching down the deck lid.
7.15.6.1 Install a metal bar between across the back to hold the Fiero bear claw.
7.15.6.2 Install

8. Electrical

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 8.1 Headlights Saturn
8.1.1 Headlight module and wire harness from 87-88 Fiero. If you are not using an 87 or 88
Fiero, then go to the junk yard and the module is on the driver side, in front of the wheel between
the fender and chassis. The wires to the headlight motors will need to be switched. Cut, solder,
and shrink tube the wire. The plug will snap into the Saturn motor. Check all the grounds are
making good contact.

8.1.2 Fiero headlight wires to Saturn headlight wires and color codes here:

8.2 Side marker lights

8.2.1 Yellow in the front and red in the rear

8.2.2 Cut, solder and shrink tube Fiero side marker light wires to Ferrari light wires

8.3 Rear lights OEM F355 (all four rear lights are different. Using pigtails works a lot better
than soldering directly)
8.3.1 INNER:
outer ring high filament for brake light
outer ring low filament for running light
center white for backup light

8.3.2 OUTER:
outer ring high filament for turn signal
outer ring low filament for running light
center... (The center is not used on the US model)

9. Muffler and Tips

9.1 Stock Fiero with tips. (cut trunk)

9.2 Fiero type muffler with tips (cut trunk)

9.3 OEM F355 muffler (must cut out trunk floor, tips fit to bumper, tips need to be extended
about 2" if you do not want to cut out the rear support of the Fiero, does not sound like a Ferrari,
not loud, quieter than a stock Fiero muffler)

9.4 Other

10. Prepping for Paint

Note: The prepping for paint is more important than painting. The difference between a $500
and $5000 paint job is the prep. All flaws not taken care of during the prepping will stand out once
painted. It is not recommended to go cheap on the paint job. The last thing you want to do is
invest a lot of time and money in this project and have the paint not look good. Nothing screams
kit car more than a sloppy paint job.

11. Interior
11.1 Rob's Interior is the best and easiest to install

11.2 Beg or pay what ever to get Rob's Interior

11.3 Short shifter

11.3.1 Be aware that the cable linkage does not like grate shifter plates. If you use one,
you can wear out the syncros in the transmission.

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 11.4 Steering wheel
11.4.1 You just cannot go wrong with a Momo. (Most Challenge cars use the cheapest
Momo steering wheel they can find)
11.4.2 The OEM wheel can be adapted to the stock Fiero stock if done correctly
11.4.3 Subaru 2.5RS and WRX four spoke steering wheels look OEM F355.

11.5 Seats
11.5.1 Mr. Mikes makes great leather covers for Fiero seats. He uses high quality leather
and it is easy to add seat warmers to his kit.
11.5.2 Use OEM Ferrari seats (expensive for no reason)
11.5.3 Racing seats (make sure to not get the cheep uncomfortable ones)

11.6 Removing the dash (taken from Pennock's forum)

11.6 Removing the dash. Some think this is an 8-hour job because it is in some other cars.
The most novice mechanic can do this in a reasonable time.
11.6.1 Pull the Speedo and aux gauges first. For the Speedo, you have five t15 torx screws
for the back panel of the cluster, plus two-7mm screws from the bottom of that panel.
11.6.2 Remove the four-7mm screws holding on the bottom panel.
11.6.3 Pull the headlight/dimmer/defrost/trunk release switches. There are 4 T15's on each
of those. Then remove the wiring connectors.
11.6.4 Remove the four 10mm screws, 2 on top, 2 on bottom for the cluster itself. Plus the
wiring plugs. I think there are 3 wiring connectors. (Two on the left and one on the right.)
11.6.5 Remove the cluster.
11.6.6 Remove the shifter surround. There are four 7mm screws that hold this down. They
are located underneath the ashtrays. You’ll need to remove the shifter. Manual trans shift knobs,
simply unscrew them. Righty tighty, lefty, loosey. For an auto, there is a 2-prong pin holding it in.
Just use a flat head screw driver (or keys if you're in the junkyard without tools) It’s on the front of
the shifter. Once out, push the shifter button and the shifter should slide straight upwards.
11.6.7 Remove the radio trim bezel. Four T15 torx screws and out it will come. This is
where you’re wishing you had a cordless drill with a 7mm socket. There are three 7mm screws on
the bottom and several inside the radio surround. (6-8 maybe.) Remove these and live the radio
surround from the bottom. You might need to drop the trans into 2nd gear or D1.
11.6.8 Remove the four more 7mm screws hold on the aux pod. Remove these and unplug
the pigtail connector.
11.6.9 Now you can get to the dash. Remove the speaker covers, being careful not to
crack the dash. These have become brittle over the years. There are 2 long 7mm screws under
each speaker cover. Next remove the hood release lever. That’s held in by 3 phillips screws.
While you’re down there (I love that line) remove the 10mm screw under the dash corner. Then
follow with the other 10 mm on the passenger side.
11.6.10 Now the fun part. Getting this thing out without busting the corners. You’ll notice,
by the center air vents, it’s molded to somewhat hold the dash in place. Simply push down on the
plastic and lift the dash over. It should start to feel loose. You have to disconnect the speakers.
Now pull the dash out. You’ll probably have to tilt the wheel downward.
11.6.11 You’re on your own getting the dash out of the car. Sometimes they come out
easy; others it seems like you’re pulling a big square block through a little round hole. Take five if
you’re already frustrated for any reason.

11.7 Sound deadening

11.7.1 Under seats
11.7.1.1 Asphalt strips or total coverage to metal area under the seats
11.7.1.2 Foil back material (Hot water heater wrap is cheap and works)

11.7.2 Firewall
11.7.2.1 Asphalt strips or total coverage (More coverage the better)
11.7.2.2 Foil back material (Hot water heater wrap is cheap and works)

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 11.7.3 Headliner
11.7.3.1 Asphalt strips
11.7.3.2 Foam (automotive or marine grade) in area between fiberglass and Fiero roof.
(Spiders need not apply)

11.7.4 Rear deck

11.7.4.1 Under hood foil sided insulation between engine and rear deck
11.7.4.2 Sheet metal
11.7.4.3 MDF
11.7.4.4 Asphalt matte

11.8 Interior colors

11.8.1 Black is the easiest color to match. Even though the black color for the carpet,
seats, seat belts and upholstery will not match 100%, you will not notice it.

11.8.2 Tan is hard to match. Many OEM cars do not match though.

11.9 Seat belts (Safety item. Have a professional help with the installation.)
11.9.1 Stock Fiero
Note: that the B-Pillar cut will take out the upper seat belt anchor.

11.9.2 5 point racing seat belt

11.9.3 other

12. Brakes
12.1 84-87 Fiero
12.1.1 West Coast Fiero 11", 11 1/4", 12", 13"

12.1.2 Held

12.1.3 V8 Archie

12.1.4 11 1/4" LeBaron

12.2 88 Fiero
12.2.1 West Coast Fiero sells 12" or 13" Corvette brakes that look great and are cheep

13. Engine
13.1 Stock 2.5l 4 cylinder (98hp, but good gas mileage)
Power: 98hp
Pros: 35 MPG+, CA smog legal
Cons: See power, little aftermarket

13.2 Stock 2.8l V6 cylinder

Power: 135hp
Pros: Much faster than 4 banger. CA smog legal
Cons: See power, little aftermarket

13.3 3.4l push rod: (93-95 Camaro/Firebird or 12363230 - HT 3.4L Crate Engine)
Power: 160hp - 190lbs
Pros: Simple bolt-in installation, inexpensive, uses Fiero wiring and exhaust, possible
200hp with minor modifications

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 Cons: Low on power, pushrod, not smog legal (but really hard to tell)
Est. Cost: $700(used) - $2300(new crate)

13.4 3.4 DOHC:

Power: 210+hp - 210lbs
Pros: Sounds most like a Ferrari, 7.5K red line(this engine like to rev), almost bolt-in
installation, bolts to transmission, best use of the transmission low gearing, CA smog legal with
5sp
Cons: Heavy (~500lbs), little after market, older engine (91-93), expensive to rebuild,
custom chip and wire harness needed
Est. Cost: $2500+

13.5 3800SC:
Power: 240+hp - 280lbs
Pros: Lighter than DOHC, Higher Power, Vast after market, bolts to transmission, bullet
proof, engine mounts and exhaust system available off the shelf from West Coast Fiero and
others, wire harness available, 300hp with a couple of simple modifications
Cons: Not CA smog legal with 5sp
Est. Cost: $2500+

13.6 LT-1:
Power: 300hp - 300lbs
Pros: unlimited power potential, close performance to a real 355, bullet proof engine
Cons: cost, heavy, does not sound like a Ferrari, can destroy the transmission, and must
use an adapter plate
Est. Cost: $4500+

13.7 LS-1:
Power: 345hp - 350lbs
Pros: lighter than a LT-1, faster than a real 355
Cons: more cost, does not sound like a Ferrari, can destroy the transmission, must use an
adapter plate
Est. Cost: $6500

13.8 Northstar:
Power: 300hp - 300lb
Pros: lighter than a LT-1, could be faster than a real 355
Cons: more cost, does not sound like a Ferrari, can destroy the transmission, not CA smog
legal with 5sp.
Est. Cost: $7500

13.9 Ecotec 4 cyl

Power: 160-250+hp
Pros: very light, revs to the moon
Cons: cost, custom mounts, electrical, and exhaust
Est. Cost: unknown

13.10 Many others, it only takes time and money

14. Transmission
14.1 Stock Fiero 3sp automatic (weak)

14.2 Stock Fiero 4sp Manual

14.3 Stock Fiero 5sp Manual

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 14.4 Other GM automatics

15. Stereo Component Locations

Note: This section will only cover the location of the stereo components and not stereo theory
or brand names. There are thousands of products out there and this manual will not keep up with
the latest innovation. The stereo should be the last thing on your mind. It is much better to focus
your time and money on the quality of the build. Please note that the F355 did not come with a
stereo. It was an option.

15.1 Deck
15.1.1 OEM Fiero/Ferrari location in dash in front of center console (easiest)

15.1.2 Glove box

15.2 Front speakers (It is high recommended to get component speakers for the front, i.e.
separate 1" tweeter and 5+" mid range woofer)
15.2.1 Built into the doors

15.2.2 Dashboard (no OEM Ferrari has speakers in top of the dash)

15.2.3 Mid range in the door and the tweeter behind the side vents (recommended)

15.3 Rear speakers (The rear speakers are mainly for fill and component speakers will be less
of a value)
15.3.1 In rear deck area
15.3.2 Built into seats. There are some really good 4" speakers that can be placed into the
head rest.

15.4 Subwoofer locations

Note: The interior space is very limited.
15.4.1 OEM Fiero 5" subwoofer built into dash

15.4.2 10-12" cut into the firewall (Watch out cutting the firewall, the brake lines are back
there. Hard to seal

15.4.3 6-10" in passenger foot well

15.4.4 6-8" under the dash

15.4.5 Spare tire area with vent to passenger compartment

15.4.6 8" build into doors (it's been done)

15.4.6 8-15" in the trunk (This has been done. The only question now is why)

15.5 Amplifiers
15.5.1 Front spare tire trunk area. This is an idea location for an amplifier. It is protected
from the environment, not taking space in the interior and is close to the battery.

15.5.2 A small amplifier might fit under the dash

15.6 WTF!! Who cares about the stereo? Roll down the windows and floor it.

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16. Rebuilding the Fiero (not including the engine and transmission)
Note: The Fiero is now over 20 years and wear items should be replaced
16.1 Suspension
16.1.1 Replace all rubber bushings with polyurethane. New rubber bushings can be for the
84-87, but not the 88s. Polyurethane is much stiffer than rubber and will handle better. The down
side is that it is known to squeak. When installing polyurethane bushings, use mass amounts of
grease.

16.1.2 Front end tie rods

16.1.3 Rear end tie rods (84-87)

16.1.4 Shocks
16.1.4.1 Coilovers
16.1.4.2 Koni (expensive, but will last a life time)
16.1.4.3 KYB
16.1.4.4 Monroe

16.1.5 Steering rack bushing

16.2 A/C
16.2.1 Rebuild R-12 system
16.2.2 Switch to h134a

16.3 All rubber hoses

16.3.1 Cooling system rubber hoses
16.3.2 Vacuum lines (switch to steel if you have the money)

16.4 Shift cables

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