4PerfectDays in Buenos Aires PDF

4 PER FEC T D AYS IN BUENOS AIRES
D AY 1
2
3
WALKING BUENOS AIRES

a
gdebk
4 Perfect Days in
BUENOS AIRES
a
WALKING BUENOS AIRES

gdebk
written by
JEFF BARRY
www.walkingbuenosaires.com
4 PERFECT DAYS IN BUENOS AIRES
2009 Jeff Barry
Book Design
Cecilia Sorochin | SoroDesign
DAY 1 Centro
DAY 2 Barrio Norte

Barrio Norte -Recoleta & Retiro 27
Girondo & Norah 32
Palacio Paz 34
Bookstores along Esmeralda 36
Night 37
DAY 3 Palermo
Palermo 39
Victoria Ocampo 41
DAY 4 San Telmo

San Telmo 45
The Southern edge of San Telmo 46
Bar El Federal 48
Casal de Catalunya 49
Evitas Eternal Flame 50
La Boca 51
EXTRA DAY Explore

Take a Bus 54
On the 39 Bus 55
Plazas 56
Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur 57
A Visit to Flores 59
APPENDIX
Restaurants 60
More than 20 Picture-Perfect Spots 61
TABL E O F C O NTENTS
Welcome 13
Plaza de Mayo 15
Madres de Plaza de Mayo 16
Obelisco 17
Avenida de Mayo -a walk 18
Your rst Night in Buenos Aires 22
Teatro Coln 23
Bars & Cafs of Buenos Aires 24
Plaza Serrano 43
Xul Solar Museum 43
TABLE of CONTENTS
How do you Fall in Love with a City? 9

Arrival 11
A place beckons you with some nostalgic, romanticized notion, a South American capital
with European charm, the passion of music and
words pulsing through the people who call it
home. You yearn for moments that will remain
with you, memories more fragile than photographs, times that stay, linger through your mind
years later when youre cooking dinner, relaxing
on your back porch, or browsing in a store. Once
you experience this city, Buenos Aires is a part
of you forever.
Bar Sur in San Telno
This guide presents one way of experiencing Buenos Aires, the way I recommend to my own friends
on their rst visits. A wealth of activities exists in
Buenos Aires and in 4 days you can only sample the
best of the citys offerings. This guide is simply a way
for me to share some of my own approaches to the
city. Ill leave detailed descriptions of the really wellknown sights to others but I will include many of
those in this itinerary so that you know on which
places to focus your time.
IN TRO
How do you Fall in Love

with a City?
El Espantapjaros (see page 32)
Flights from the U.S. to Buenos Aires are

overnight trips, arriving during the early
morning in Argentina. A simple way of
getting from the airport is to use Manuel
Tienda Len, which offers bus and car service to downtown Buenos Aires. No need
to make a reservation, simply stop at the
Manuel Tienda Len counter located just
as you exit the customs area.
ARRIVAL
10
ARRIVAL
11

12
D AY 1
DAY 1
13
WE L C O M E
Once youve settled into your hotel
or short-stay apartment you have a
couple of options depending upon
how well you rested during the
night-time ight. The rst is to
grab some rest for a few hours
before beginning a busy day of
exploration. But if youre up to
it and ready to go, then take
the second option of heading
Congress Building
on out by all means. If you didnt like the

airplane breakfast, then a caf is likely
your rst destination.
Buenos Aires is a caf society. The cafs nourish not only the stomachs but also the souls of those
who inhabit the city, and a caf
can be found practically within a
few blocks of any part of the city.
So, avoid the hotel restaurant and
set out down the street to nd
the nearest caf. The cafs of
Buenos Aires all serve essentially the same types of food
and the quality doesnt vary a
great extent. The true difference among

the citys cafs is their ambiance.
D AY 1
14
Farmacia d e la Estrella
Though I suggest choosing your own

caf to start your rst day in the city, for
those of you who want some guidance
then La Puerto Rico at Adolfo Alsina
420 is a good choice. It has a wonderful old world charm. The nearby corner
of Defensa and Alsina is rich with history.
Right on the corner is the old pharmacy
La Estrella. If its open youll want to step
inside and take a look around.
15
Plaza de Mayo
O PTIONS :
Just around the corner from La Puerto
Rico is the Museum of the City (Museo
de la Ciudad) at Defensa 219/223. It
has a small collection worth visiting.
Open everyday 11 am - 7 pm.
P LAZA
Across Defensa Street from the City

Museum is the Basilica de San Francisco spend a few minutes inside
the church, admiring the interior.
One of the reasons I suggest starting
at La Puerto Rico is that its just a
block away from Plaza de Mayo.
DE
M AYO
the heart of the city

and the country
Basilica d e San Francisco
Take a while to enjoy the Plaza. Casa Rosada, the pink building at the end of the
plaza, is the seat of power for the executive branch of the Argentina government.
Youll nd many photo opportunities
around the plaza. While the massive cathedral is rather plain from the exterior,
the inside is constructed in an entirely
different style and you should denitely
venture inside.
Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana).
DE
THU RSD AY AFTE RN OON , 3:30 p.m., you

must nd your way to Plaza de Mayo.
Thats the time when the mothers of the
disappeared continue their weekly march
in remembrance of the 30,000 people
who were abducted, tortured, and killed
by the government during the most recent military dictatorship (1976 1983).
The Madres march in a circle for a halfhour. But dont leave the plaza yet. After completing their march the Madres
head to the statue closest to the Casa
Rosada for what is usually a highly politicized speech.
P LAZA
DE
M AYO
You should stay for the speech even if

you dont understand Spanish. At the
end, the Madres break out into a rousing chant, something you will remember
for the rest of your life.
The symbol of the Mothers

in the Plaza.
At the corner of Plaza de Mayo facing the

cathedral is a diagonal street that is lined
with beautiful ofce buildings. You cant
help but notice the obelisk that sits at the
end of that avenue.
ro
Microc ent
O BELISCO
Okay, the citys principal landmark bears
a strong resemblance to the Washington
Monument. But its an obelisk so the similarity cannot be helped. Most people zip
by the Obelisco in a car or while hurrying
to cross Av 9 de Julio, barely taking note
of the circular Plaza de la Republica that
encompasses the Obelisco.
Come here after the Argentine national
football teams wins a game in the World
Cup and its a different scene, awash in
blue and white with fans jumping, cheering for the celebration.
Even on an ordinary day the Obelisco offers a surprising respite from the chaotic
pace of the citys center. Located in the
heart of downtown, right in the middle of
what is claimed to be the widest avenue in
the world, the Obelisco can be a refreshing
break. Besides its a superb spot for taking
the essential photo down the middle of Av
9 de Julio.
And, late in the afternoon, you might see
the colorful military honor guard arrive to
take down the Argentine ag.
The avenue youll really want to go down

next is Avenida de Mayo. It runs in a
straight line 13 blocks from Plaza de Mayo
to the national congress on the other end.
I nd Av de Mayo to be the most beautiful street in the entire city, though there
are several others that give it close competition. Take a slow walk down Av de
Mayo, being sure to look up and admire
the architecture. The next two pages are a
walking tour that highlights Av de Mayo.
Walking around Av de Mayo.
D AY 1
16
M ADRES
17
Hotel Chile
Av. de Mayo 1297
[5]
[4]
AV E N I D A
DE
a walk
MAYO
Casa de los Lirios

Av. Rivadavia 2031
[11]
Casa de la Cultura
(former La Prensa)
Av. de Mayo 575
Hotel Majestic
Av. de Mayo 1317
[6]
[1]
Contera del Molino

Av. Rivadavia 1801
[10]
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Bar 36 Billares
Av. de Mayo 1265
Caf de los Angelitos

Av. Rivadavia 2100
19
[12]
Caf Tortoni
Av. de Mayo 825
Congress
Av. Entre Ros between
Hiplito Irigoyen & Rivadavia
[9]
[2]
La Inmobiliaria
Av. de Mayo between
L. S. Pea & San Jos
[8]
Palacio Barolo
Av. de Mayo 1370
[7]
Hotel Castelar
Av. de Mayo 1150
[3]
Subway The A Line
Mural in subway
If you didnt start your day at La Puerto

Rico (or if you decide to
take another break), there are a

couple of classic cafs on
v d e Mayo
Cupola in A
has been renovated. Honestly, I liked it a

little better before the remodeling. Ironically, it seemed more authentic when it
was a little drab. But its a good stop particularly if the Tortoni is too crowded.
At the end of Av de Mayo you will be faced
with the massive Congreso Nacional. Off
to your right, when facing the congress,
is a remarkable, abandoned building with
a windmill on its cupola. You cant miss it.
Thats the now empty Conteria del Molino and we all wish that it will re-open
and be saved from further decay. (Use this
building as a milestone for marking the
next path in the days journey).
The street running past the congress,

just in front of the Molino, is Av RivadaAv de Mayo. Every guidevia. At 2031 Rivadavia is an outstanding
book will tell you to drop in at the Torexample of art nouveau
toni and that certainly
architecture in Bueis worth doing at some
nos Aires, built in the
point during your stay in
rst decade of the 20th
Buenos Aires.
Cafe Tortoni, founded in
century and unlike any1858, is the oldest in the city.
thing else in the city.
Another classic is 36 BilTheres a lot of great examples of art
lares (Av de Mayo 1265), which recently
nouveau in Buenos Aires but this is one

of my favorites.
nearest intersection and on the northeast corner youll nd Las Violetas

(Rivadavia 3899). It is a stunning caf,
almost rivaling the Tortoni in its splendor. Not
as many tourists make it
out here but its a very
special place.
Remember I said that

Buenos Aires was a caf
society? I already mentioned three classic cafs. Well, now you have
options for two more.
Across the street and
After youve relaxed at
a half-block from the
Las Violetas you may
Las Violetas vitreaux
art nouveau building is
want to take the subway
Caf de los Angelitos.
back to the downtown
But my suggestion is to try something a
area and go rest for a while at your holittle further aeld.
tel. Depending upon what part of the city
youre staying, you may simply decide
On Rivadavia nd the subway (subte)
also to take a taxi from Las Violetas.
station. This is the A line and is the only
line with the old wooden rail cars. Youll
have a lot of fun riding this subway line.
You might nd that you want to take it a
few times, even all the way to the end of
If you want to enjoy the services
the line and back just to enjoy the expeof a guided walking tour, then you
rience! But for this particular trip youll
should check out the Buenos Aires
want to take it west bound to the Castro
101 tour offered by Alan Patrick
Barros stop.
Coming out of the subway look for the
D AY 1
20
Tea Time in
Las Violetas
21
22
YOUR FIRST NIGHT

B UENOS A IRES
IN
You probably already know that people

in Buenos Aires eat dinner late. Restaurants dont even open for dinner until 8
p.m. You can choose a restaurant from
my recommended list at the back of this
guide. After dinner, you may choose to
wander a bit near the restaurant or you
may opt for attending a tango show.
Im not an expert on tango shows, which
exist entirely to serve tourists. But a couple that I recommend are El Viejo Almacn or Piazzolla Tango. The showplace
for the latter is located in a gorgeous ar-
cade from 1915 that has recently undergone renovation. I denitely do not think
that a tango show is an essential part of
visiting Buenos Aires, but it can be enjoyable as long as you always remember
that the tango show is purely a tourist
attraction. I would advise not to opt for
the dinner part offered by an tango show
venue. Most likely, the beef will be overpriced and not as good as you might nd
in a regular restaurant.
The true tango dancers can be found at
milongas and Im by far am not an authority on the best milongas. One that I
usually recommend is at Conteria Ideal
on Suipacha street. Thats also a decent
place for a meal.
Unfortunately, Teatro Coln is closed

for renovation until sometime in
2009 or later. The renovation was supposed to be completed by May 2008
but keeps getting delayed, possibly
until 2010. While the present Teatro
Coln celebrated its 100th anniversary
in 2008, there actually was another
Teatro Coln that was built in 1857
alongside the Plaza de Mayo, where
the current Banco de la Nacin is located. The rst Teatro Coln closed in
1888. While the new Teatro Coln was
being built over the following 18 years,
the dominant opera house in Buenos
Aires was Teatro de la pera, which
was built in 1872. Another theater of
that time was Teatro Politeama, which
remained popular well into the 20th
century. The Politeama wasnt just an
Engraving of the original Teatro Coln
D AY 1
T EATRO C OLN
opera house, but provided a venue for

a lot of popular entertainment.
Despite being closed, the exterior
of Teatro Coln is still a magnicent
building. The surrounding neighborhood, which also features the countrys
justice building, is worth a visit.
23
You can spend a month in Buenos Aires

visiting a different caf everyday and not
exhaust the supply of watering holes that
echo a sense of the past. Yet, many of
these old-fashioned bars and cafs that
have served elderly men sitting quietly
drinking beer, watching football, reading the paper, are undergoing a dramatic
change. Some are becoming modernized
into more protable restaurants. Others have been renovated for tourists into
what resembles an early 20th century caf
but come complete with tango dancers.
You may have to go out of the city center
to nd a truly traditional caf that gives
the feel of decades past. Ill leave that
adventure of exploration to you, which
is by far the best way to stumble across
something memorable. But if you really
want to nd a truly old-fashioned caf
then take a taxi out to the south side, to
the barrio of Barracas. At the corner of
California street and Av Montes de Oca
youll nd Bar El Progreso, which still
retains the charm of decades past.
D AY 1
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B ARS & C AFS OF

B UENOS A IRES
25

26
1
D AY 2
DAY 2
27
(
B ARRIO N ORTE :
If you dont want to do that, then heres

one way to enjoy the day.
The area north of downtown is known for

being the wealthiest and most sophisticated part of Buenos Aires. Formed by
the adjoining neighborhoods of Recoleta
and Retiro, Barrio Norte is high-class.
You could just spend the entire day wandering around admiring the architecture.
Start with a visit to Recoleta Cemetery, which is one of the worlds great
cemeteries. The tombs in the cemetery
are outstanding. Depending upon your
fascination with cemeteries you could
spend half-a-day exploring the cemetery.
The best way to get acquainted with the
cemetery is to visit the Web site www.recoletacemetery.com.
RECOLETA & RETIRO
Recoleta Cemetery
Its great fun to explore the cemetery on your own, but a knowledgeable guide can make sure you
see the most remarkable tombs and
learn some fascinating history.
If youre not so much into cemeteries,

you should still give Recoleta Cemetery
a visit if for no other reason than to follow all the other tourists to the resting
place of Eva Pern. You wont see much
at her black marble mausoleum other
than some plaques with her name and
some owers left by her admirers. But
shes such a famous gure, legendary in
many ways, that its just one of the things
you should do while in Buenos Aires.
Finding Evitas tomb can be little confusing since there are no signs posting directions. Ill give you a hint: shes buried
off to the left side of the cemetery. First,
look for the signs pointing to the tomb
of Sarmiento (a 19th-century president

of Argentina). Once you found his burial
place, then walk by a few more rows of
tombs and youll eventually come across
the little street containing Evitas mausoleum. Theres almost always a lot of
owers left in front of her resting place.
Most likely youll just need to look for the
crowd or follow behind a tour group. Its
where everybody goes.
Evita
Recoleta. Daguerrotype year1867
Once you nished with the cemetery

then take a quick look inside the church
next door. Afterwards wander around the
sloping plaza. If youre there on a weekend the plaza will be lled with artisan
booths selling crafts. Its a good time to
pick up a souvenir. But on weekdays the
plaza isnt too busy.
If you like museums, then the national
ne arts museum is worth a visit. It has
an excellent sculpture collection and an
outstanding permanent exhibition of Argentine art.
By this point you probably should take a

break before continuing with the rest of
the day. Across from the cemetery gates
is Av Alvear. Youre likely to notice a British-styled red telephone booth. The caf
at the corner, La Biela, is a well-known
establishment and a good stop for refreshments. If youre ready for a meal
there is an assortment of restaurants all
lined up next to each other just down

from La Biela. All of these restaurants are
fairly generic Argentine steak houses catering to tourists. I dont have a specic
recommendation here. Each place is going to be fairly similar, so just choose the
one that strikes your fancy.
After lunch you will want to stroll down
Av Alvear to admire the architecture and
the expensive shops. Take your time and
Centro Cultural Recoleta
D AY 1
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Rooftops at the Recoleta Cemetery
29
walk down Av Alvear until you get to

Plaza Pellegrini.
At Plaza Pelligrini you will undoubtedly
notice the huge embassies belong to
the Brazilian and French governments.
Take a moment to reect that these
buildings were originally constructed
as single family homes. Before coming to the French Embassy (youll see
the huge French ag out front) wander
a half-block to your left down Av Cerrito. The huge red brick mansion behind
the large fence is the VIP quarters of the
Four Seasons hotel. This is where people
like Keith Richards and Bono stay when
theyre visiting Buenos Aires. Okay, head
back up to the French Embassy and turn
onto Av Arroyo. Carefully cross Av 9 de
Julio to cross into another section of
Barrio Norte.
At the corner of Arroyo and Suipacha
youll see a small plaza that is the site of
the former Israeli Embassy, which was

destroyed by a bomb in 1992 that killed
29 people and wounded 242.
One of my favorite museums in Buenos
Aires is the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernndez Blanco. Its
located at Suipacha 1422 and is denitely
worth a visit. True to its name, the museum
has a nice collection of colonial Spanish-
The museum regularly sponsors some

very good photographic exhibitions. The
photo exhibitions generally dont have
anything to do with colonial SpanishAmerica but provide a good reason to
make recurring visits to the museum.
The house itself is worth a visit alone.
Museo Fernandez Blanco
But dont be fooled into thinking that

this is actually a colonial house. It was
built in 1921 by architect Martn Noel,
but he didnt live in the main house. That
belonged to his brother Carlos who was
mayor of Buenos Aires from 1922 - 1927.
Martn lived in the front part of the estate, the group of rooms that are part of
the front wall. The brothers also had a
famous neighbor that gets very little attention these days.
D AY 1
30
Av Alvear
Old PostCard
American material which are displayed in

a very nice setting within the house.
The ground oor has a mostly religious
theme. So, if youre looking for that colonial feeling which you nd in, say, Lima
then this is the place to go in Buenos
Aires. Be sure to wander down into the
basement which also has an interesting
assortment of domestic items used by
upper-class porteos of the day.
31

32
G IRONDO & N ORAH

For most who pass along calle Suipacha, the plain, unassuming house
next to Palacio Noel goes unnoticed.
Thousands of houses and apartments
in Buenos Aires feature more charming
exteriors. Of course, as with many buildings in the city, you never know what
is behind the facade. In this particular
house during the mid-20th
century, many of the leading artistic gures of Buenos
Aires partook in the dancing
and drinking offered by their
charismatic host, a monumental gure in Argentine
literature, the poet Oliverio
Girondo. Serving as hostess
for these fortnightly soires,
while cultivating her reputation as a coquettish seductress, was his wife the writer
Norah Lange. (She also was the unrequited
love of Jorge Luis Borges, according to the
most recent biographer of Borges.)
Family wealth nanced Girondos global
journeys and bohemian, but comfortable,
lifestyle. In the 1920s Girondo lived in Paris and Rome, traveling widely
while amassing a vast collection
of sculpture, paintings, and reportedly, one of the largest private collections of gold pre-Colombian artifacts. Returning for
good to Buenos Aires in 1932,
Girondo re-assumed his leadership of the literary avant-garde
much to the annoyance of his
rival Borges.
Always scandalous and seeking publicity,
Girondo sought ways to shock the bourgeoisie. He promoted his most famous
book Espantapjaros (Scarecrow) by hiring a horse-drawn funeral hearse to parade an efgy of a learned man along
the streets of Buenos Aires. After the stunt
the papier-mch scarecrow resided in
Girondos house. (It is now often on display at the Museo de la Ciudad, and is
pictured on page 6 of this guidebook.)
Girondo is hardly known outside the realm
of Spanish-language literary readers despite
the fact that Notre Dame university in Indiana has an extensive collection of his works.
Girondo, if not for his life alone, is overdue
for discovery by the rest of the world.
Find a spot in the plaza and relax for a

while.
Plaza San Martin
D AY 1
Espantapjaros. Original book cover.
Continuing on down Arroyo youll pass a

number of art galleries. Arroyo will end at
Esmeralda street where theres a beautiful apartment building. Turn right on Esmeralda and in a few blocks youll come
across the back of Palacio San Martn,
which faces one of my favorite plazas in
the city, named suitably enough Plaza
San Martn.
33
The massive Palacio Paz bordering Plaza

San Martin was certainly the most extravagant attempt to bring the feeling of Paris
to the Argentine capital. Most visitors admire the enormous facade from the front,
the plaza offering a prime perspective, or
by taking a tour of the interior.
Retiro Train Station
Turn to your right and head up Marcelo

T. Alvear so that Palacio Paz is on your
right. Half-way down the block youll
come across the back entrance to Palacio Paz. At that doorway look closely at
the small plaque with the ne script on
the door, near where the key would be
inserted, to see that the door itself did
indeed come from Paris.
Before leaving the block locate the

brownish building across the street at
#738. Pedro Figari, a talented Uruguayan
painter, lived here during the years that
he called Buenos Aires his home. Several
of his paintings are on permanent display
at MALBA.
O PTIONS
Palacio Paz Cupola
But you also should take a few moments

and wander around the side of the building, down Maipu street. Walk past the
Military Museum tucked into the corner
of Palacio Paz and go to the corner of
Maipu and Marcelo T. Alvear.
The plain apartment building on the

corner was the home of Argentinas
most famous writer, Jorge Luis Borges.
He lived up on the sixth oor for many
years, and for most of that time with his
elderly mother.
From the plaza you have a couple of

options, wander down to the train
station and have a coffee at a very
enchanting caf or do some shopping along Florida street.
Florida Street
D AY 1
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PA L A C I O PA Z
35
Placio de las Aguas Corrientes
LAmateur Rare Bookseller
B OOKSTORES
ALONG
The 800 block of Esmeralda in the microcentro appears initially as another

hectic, non-descript block in the citys
chaotic downtown. Yet, nestled midway along the block are three charming
bookstores. Even if you dont go inside,
browsing at the windows may reveal
some fascinating books, maps, and old
prints. But if you have
time and the stores are
open, then go inside.
Buenos Aires has many
rare book dealers, many
E SMERALDA
of which are located in this general

area of the city. Each year the rare book
dealers band together for an exhibition
of their holdings and an opportunity to
see some of their prime works.
Tucked between two of the bookstores is
the entrance to an apartment building.
The gate likely will be closed
but peek through the glass
and youll see a lovely
courtyard just beyond the
entrance corridor.
D AY 1
36
Continue south on Esmeralda and notice

the beautiful apartment building at
the corner of Esmeralda and Cordoba.
Before reaching the corner be sure to
glance up and observe the building
from the rear. It presents a good opportunity for studying the residential
architecture of the city.
In keeping with the literary theme of
Esmeralda street, one of Argentinas
most-known poets, Alfonsina Storni,
lived in this building. In 1938 at the
age of 46, Storni committed suicide
at the seaside resort of Mar del Plata
by walking into the ocean.
NIGHT
Have dinner at either Chiquilin or Arturito then enjoy strolling down Av Cor-
37
B.A. at night
rientes, the Broadway of Buenos Aires,

and spend some time exploring the new
& used bookstores. If youre looking for
a tango CD, then the best place to check
is Zivals at the corner of Corrientes &
Callao.

38
D AY 1
DAY 3
39
PA L E R M O
Palermo is a huge neighborhood. American expats seem to love Palermo though
its not really so high on my list. Honestly, Palermo Viejo, which really isnt as
old as its name implies, reminds me of
any trendy district in any U.S. city. I love
those neighborhoods when Im in the
U.S. but I just nd so many other areas of
Floralis Generica Sculpture
Buenos Aires more fascinating than Palermo. Regardless, do plan on spending

most of an entire day exploring Palermo.
And, rst, Im going to direct you to the
area of Palermo that is truly interesting,
what I call the embassy and museum
district but more commonly known as
Barrio Parque.
Mind boggling. To have a house large
enough that it eventually could become
a museum. What could it be like to live
Ocampos house in Palermo
Museo de Arte
Decorativo
in such a place, to grow up amid such

massive rooms? It probably left you in
a rather warped mental state. This section of Palermo offers the opportunity
to view three museums that were once
grand houses. Theyre all within walking
distance, two are free to the public, and
all can be easily visited in one afternoon.
Youll likely have the chance of exploring
the museums at your leisure without jostling among a crowd.
A good starting point is the Museo de
Arte Decorativo (Avenida del Libertador 1902), which is the most palatial. The
permanent collection is supplemented by
various exhibitions. But the interior of
the house is the primary attraction and
worth much more than the minuscule
price of admission. The restoration of the
building has improved tremendously in
the last few years so that you will soak in
the stunning ambiance of gentile living
of the Buenos Aires aristocracy. A very

nice Web site featuring a virtual tour of
the house is www.mnad.org
Across the broad avenue, just behind the

Spanish embassy, is the Ocampo house
at 2831 Runo de Elizalde and across
from Plaza Chile. Victoria Ocampo was
the grand dame of arts and culture in
Buenos Aires for decades, spanning the
1920s till her death in the 1970s. The
house she built in Palermo was the site
of many parties featuring the best writers and artists of the nation. The house
is now the Casa de la Cultura del Fondo
Nacional de las Artes and can be visited
freely by the public. Though theres really
very little on the inside, the house gives
you a chance to walk in the same rooms
visited by many of Argentinas great writers, including Jorge Luis Borges.
V ICTORIA O CAMPO
The most striking aspect of the house is
its modernist style, especially considering the typical architecture of Buenos
Aires. The house looks more like Miami
Beach than Buenos Aires. The juxtaposition of the house next to the Spanish
Embassy and the other palatial residences is a strong architectural statement that bets a woman like Victoria
Ocampo, 39 years old when she built
the house.
The architectural appearance of the
house is even more astonishing when
you realize that it was built in 1929.
Victoria Ocampo herself designed the
house, though she hired the famed
Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo
to nalize it. The story is that Bustillo
so disliked the house that he refused
to put his name on it. A more typical
Bustillo design, just down the street, is

the Belgian Embassy, which was built
a year after the Ocampo house.
Modern sculpture is now positioned
around the exterior of the Ocampo
house and the inside provides space for
exhibitions and presentations.
Considering that Victoria Ocampo lived
in this house for 12 years, the house itself also played an important role in the
development of literary culture in Buenos Aires. The house was the location
for the party that launched Ocampos
literary journal Sur in 1931.
She also had another estate out in the
suburb of San Isidro, a home called Villa
Ocampo that is now owned and managed by Unesco, along with a special
Web site that lls you in on Victorias
amazing life: www.villaocampo.org
D AY 1
40
Villa Ocampo
41
MALBA
A few blocks behind the Ocampo house

in Palermo is the Museo Metropolitano
at 3217 Castex . The exhibit here changes
regularly. But again, its the house that
youve really come to see. While only a
few rooms are open to the public its free
and you almost always will be the only
one visiting the museum. A cozy coffee
shop is located at the entrance.
ple of modern architecture and has a gift

shop, bookstore, and caf. If you happen to
be staying in Buenos Aires for an extended stay and like art house lms, then you
should check out the cinema schedule in
MALBA. Unlike the other museums in the
area, MALBA isnt free (except on Wednesdays). See www.malba.org.ar for more information about visiting the museum.
Rounding out the set of museums in this

corner of Palermo is Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, known
more commonly by its initials MALBA,
just a few blocks away at the corner of
Figueroa Alacorta and San Martin de
Tours. MALBA is an extraordinary collection of contemporary Latin American art,
perhaps the best in the world. features
works by internationally known artists
such as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera as
well as several Argentine artists like Antonio Berni and Xul Solar.
The MALBA building itself is bright exam-
If youre not so into museums, then

another way to enjoy Palermo is
wander through the many parks in
the area. The citys botanical garden, though small, makes for a relaxing stroll.
Night along
PLAZA SERRANO
Museo Renault
For an evening of entertainment in Palermo, wander down to the trendy heart of

Palermo: Plaza Serrano (also known as
Plaza Cortzar). The area is packed with
restaurants and designer stores. I must
admit that Im not really an authority on
the nightlife or shopping in this area. If
youre intrigued by Palermo and want to
know more about its stores and eateries,
then you should denitely check out the
blog: trendypalermoviejo.blogspot.com
X UL S OLAR
MUSEUM
Xul Solar (1887-1963) is one of the

most signicant artists of the 20th
century, yet he is little known outside
of his native Argentina. Repeatedly, I
have asked people with art history degrees about Xul Solar and have been
met with only blank stares. Since rst
seeing Xul Solars incredible watercolors
several years ago, Ive been fascinated
by his work and the story of his life. His
friend Jorge Luis Borges referred to Xul
Solar as the most intellectual person
that he knew.
I feel strongly that people should be
sure not to miss the Museo Xul Solar
in Buenos Aires. The museum building
itself is an excellent renovation of Xul
Solars Palermo home and is at 1212
Laprida street.
Reprints of Xul Solars paintings do not
prepare you for the vibrant colors of
the actual works. You really need to see
the art of Xul Solar in person to appreciate it fully. Samples of his work and
info about the museum can be found
at www.xulsolar.org.ar
D AY 1
42
Next to MALBA is Museo Renault, which

despite its name is not a museum. Its really a place to go if youre in the mood for
high-priced (by Buenos Aires standards)
cuisine. Housed in a former car dealership, that was designed by the same Italian architect who created the majestic
Palacio Barolo on Av de Mayo, the roof
of the Museo Renault building had an
usual feature: a race track for test driving
automobiles.
43

44
D AY 1
DAY 4
45
S A N TE L M O
On Sundays almost every tourist in Buenos Aires descends on the barrio of San
Telmo for the weekly event that is part
antique fair, part ea market, and a great
time for people watching.
Plaza Dorrego is the center of the action
where dozens of booths line the square,
A wall in San Telmo
all selling an assortment of goods. Look

closely, be prepared to bargain, and you
might come across a memorable nd to
carry home. Around the Plaza are a number of bars and cafes of varying quality,
but try to squeeze into the classic Bar
Dorego on the corner and have a seat at
one of the old wooden tables.
In recent years the fair has expanded for
blocks down Defensa street and along
side streets. And if you have lots of money
Bar Britnico
Plaza Dorrego Sunday Market

46
or just like to window shop, then youll

enjoy Defensa street even more since its
lined with wonderful antique stores lled
with gorgeous objects. Enjoy strolling
through the bustling crowd on Defensa
but be sure to wander over one block to
Balcarce street, which even on Sunday is
a quieter example of the real nature of
the neighborhood.
San Telmo is my neighborhood and I love

it but to really appreciate San Telmo you
must also visit the barrio during a weekday when most of the tourists are busy
enjoying other parts of the city. During
the week, San Telmo reverts back to its
normal self with crumbling facades, cobblestone streets, and bohemian vibes.
The southern edge of
S A N TE L M O
Sunday in Plaza Dorrego
If you walk south on Defensa, a few

blocks further from Plaza Dorrego, going under the highway overpass and
beyond, then youll eventually run into
Parque Lezama. On weekends this park
is turned into a massive market for locals, where purely practical item such as
clothes, socks, and household goods are
Bordering the park is the Russian Orthodox Church with its blue domes. On
another edge of the park is the National
History Museum, which is located in a
reddish building from the early 1800s
that was one of the nest homes in Buenos Aires during its day. Surprisingly, that
house was built for an American from
Baltimore though it was later acquired by
a man named Lezama for whom the park
is named. While youre around the museum be sure to look down Av Caseros and
admire the English style townhouses.
fes on opposite corners of Defensa, right

across from the entrance to the park.
Both are excellent places to grab a cup of
coffee. The Britanico is open 24 hours, 7
days a week, and is a great place to go
after a late night out on the town. The
Hipoptamo Bar has a more charming
interior and serves good pasta dishes. If
you can, give both places a try.
Finally, walk down the hillside and towards

the edge of the park. You will not want to
miss the old Canale cookie factory. The
south side of Buenos Aires is dotted with
factories from the early 20th century, several of which are being refurbished into
lofts for living spaces and ofces.
Just before reaching Parque Lezama

youve probably noticed two classic ca-
Storefront in San Telmo
D AY 1
sold cheaply. So, its really better to venture down here on a weekday when the
park is quiet and peaceful.
47
C ASAL
DE

48
BAR E L F E D E R A L
Located on the corner of Per and Carlos
Calvo, El Federal is another one of those
classic places in Buenos Aires. Indeed, El
Federal is one of the most picturesque
places in the city. Yet, that also means
that it is often full of tourists. The prices
are still very reasonable, no more than
any other caf in town. Its surprising
that they havent raised the prices with
all the tourists.
El Federal does have a beautiful bar.

Photos just dont do it justice. So, you
denitely should consider El Federal as
a place for stopping. There used to be a
quaint little bookstore deep inside the
caf, but that now has been turned into
a storeroom. Most of the books were
overpriced anyway (compared to the
bookstores on Av Corrientes) but theres
something likable about a bookstore
within a caf, a tempting invitation to
browse for a few minutes.
Bar El Federal
privacy and a long, relaxing meal. The restaurant was closed for many years but reopened in 2006.
The building itself is quite a gem, which
also features the Teatro Margarita Xirgu.
While the Teatro Coln remains closed for
renovations, you may want to check out
the offerings at the Margarita Xirgu. Not
only is the theater itself a splendid example
of early 20th design, it has played a rich
role in the theatrical history of the city.
The striking facade of the building that
makes it so distinctive from any other
structure in Buenos Aires isnt the original.
Constructed in 1890 the building originally had the typical French-style facade
that adorns most of buildings of that period. Over time the building was modied
extensively and the current facade dates
from 1936 (and was refurbished in 2006).
D AY 1
We noticed the Spanish style building at

Chacabuco 855 on several of our walks
through San Telmo. Its the Cultural Center for the Catalan community in Buenos
Aires. The interior of the building is bound
to please any architectural buff. Casal de
Catalunya offers a memorable experience
for lunch or dinner. Or, you can just try
the tapas bar.
The restaurant isnt visible from the glass
front doors. If the doors are closed, ring
the buzzer to let the staff know that youre
out front. Momentarily, a waiter will come
to the door and walk you back to the restaurant, along the way youll pass a decorative bar and a large, spiral staircase. Take
a moment to look up at the winding stairs
and you will see a beautiful stained glass
window in the ceiling.
The tables in the restaurant are spread
apart, giving everyone enough room for
C ATALUNYA
49
E VITA S
ETERNAL FLAME
Most tourists seek out Evitas tomb in

Recoleta but a better way of encountering the mythic gure adored by the
Argentine working class is a visit to the
CGT Labor Union Building, located at
802 Azopardo street, a street that is between San Telmo and Puerto Madero.
The building itself is a drab example
of post-war architecture. But what you
came for is not to admire the construction, or even to go inside, but for the
image of Eva Pern painted high up on
the corner of the building. The eternal
ame just below Evitas gure doesnt
burn so bright these days, often barely
noticeable.
The CGT is the dominant coalition of labor unions in Argentina. The Perns used
the labor unions as their base of power
and the union is still a core strength of
Peronism politics. CGT is the acronym
for Confederacin General del Trabajo,
the General Confederation of Labor.
The unions, as much as anyone, are re-
sponsible for the adoration of Evita and

Juan Pern. In 2006 when Perns body
was disinterred from Chacarita cemetery and relocated to a million dollar
mausoleum in the suburbs, his cofn
was rst transferred to the CGT building amid a parade of cheering (and
largely drunk) laborers. We skipped out
from work that day to catch the festivities. After all, its not everyday that the
cofn of a dictator thirty years dead is
paraded through the city streets.
Across the street from the CGT is the
massive neoclassical College of Engineering of the University of Buenos
Aires. Whats remarkable about this
building is that it was originally built in
1950 to be the Eva Pern Foundation.
But after the Perns fall from power,
that facility found a better use as the
engineering school.
Evita was never liked by those who are
buried in those gilded tombs of Recoleta. Here at the CGT building you can
nd her true admirers.
D AY 1
50
Caminito Street
in La Boca
Colorful houses in La Boca
LA BOCA
A destination in every guidebook to Buenos Aires is La Boca, but those books cover
only the same tourist corner of the neighborhood and give the impression that the
rest of La Boca is a dangerous area to be
avoided. La Boca is certainly a grittier area
than swanky Recoleta. If youre adventurous, dont be paranoid about exploring
beyond the tourist zone around the little
street known as Caminito.
And rather than browsing in the souvenir
stores of La Boca, you must pay a visit
to the museum devoted to Quinquela
Martn (1890 - 1977), who captured the
spirit of the neighborhood in his majestic

paintings. His extraordinary art depicts
the toil and hardship of those who called
La Boca home and worked all day loading and unloading goods from the ships
docked in the port. Indeed, if it wasnt for
Quinquela Martns inspiration to foster
Caminito as a development that somehow preserved the feel of the old Italian
immigrant community that once existed
in La Boca, then most tourists would
never ever make it down to La Boca. So,
while youre there, you really should pay
a little thanks to the artist.
Safe pathways for walking from San
Telmo to La Boca include Av Almirante
Brown and Av Regimiento de Patricios.
51

52
EXTRA DAY
An extra day or two in Buenos Aires provides a lot of opportunities, all of which
are worthwhile. Many people take the
ferry for a day trip over to Colonia, Uruguay and thats highly recommended.
Others nd an estancia in the countryside
and thats also enjoyable. Yet another option is to go up to the coastal wetlands of
Tigre, which is ne, too, though not my
favorite of those three activities.
Pocketwatches in Casa Raab
Or, you may choose just to stay in Buenos

Aires, relax and explore the city on your
own. That is really what I recommend
since its the best way to truly get a sense
of what its like to live here.
Theres nothing better than just picking a

random street in Buenos Aires and walking. If you want a couple of hints, rather
than picking your own street, then choose
Chile street in San Telmo and walk west.
Another option if youre starting out in
Palermo is to take Gascon street all the
way down to Boedo.
D AY 1
EXTRA
DAY
53

54
Tango lorem ipsum dolor...
A BUS
If youre not into so much walking, then

for a peso a person you can get a remarkable view of the city on one of the citys
public buses (just avoid the rush hour). A
couple of lines that will take you through
a diverse range of neighborhoods are the
39, the 24, and the 29.
Crowd ed Bus!
Filete on an Old Bus
ON
THE
The #39 offers an exciting journey.

Catch the 39 where it starts in Chacarita, or you also can pick up in Palermo around Plaza Italia before the
bus makes its way down Av Santa Fe.
Eventually the bus will turn down Talcahuano and head towards the barrio
of Constitucin. The neighborhood will
look rather seedy, but stay on board
the 39 and you will soon be treated to
the magnicent Constitucin Station.
Most passengers will depart here in order to take a train somewhere to the
south. But youll probably want to stay
on the bus for a while longer.
The 39 continues past Constitucin
and into the lower edge of San Telmo,
turning eventually onto Av Caseros.
You can get off at the corner of Caseros and Bolivar. Its perfectly safe there
anytime of the day or night. From there
you can walk one block over to Defensa
39
BUS
and then up another block to have a
drink at Hipoptamo or Bar Britnico.
From the corner across from Britnico,
you can pick up the 24 bus for a bus
tour in the other direction.
The 39 also keeps heading south,
brushing past La Boca and on into Barracas. The return trip on the 39 is also
interesting. Catch it on Av Caseros near
Parque Lezama and you will be taken
through the center of the city, Barrio
Norte, Palermo, and nish up in Chacarita, just across from the cemetery
where the great tango singer Carlos
Gardel is buried.
If youre out in Chacarita, then you a
great place to stop for food is El Imperio de la Pizza, one of the many great
pizzerias in Buenos Aires. And the 39
starts its route back into the city from
right in front of El Imperio de la Pizza.
D AY 1
TA KE
55
The plazas are for relaxing, so nd a

bench or a spot in the grass and spend
some time there rather than just walking
straight through on the way elsewhere.
56
Parque Lezana
PLAZAS
Pleasant green spaces in the city

There are many more plazas in Buenos
Aires than just the prominent ones, such
as Plaza de Mayo or Plaza San Martn.
While these are great places not to be
missed during your stay here, many other
charming plazas are scattered throughout the city. Seek out one or more of
these green spaces to encounter an essential aspect of Buenos Aires.
Today the area is an almost forgotten

corner of the citys urban core. In the
mornings the plaza is lled with men,
who seem to be day laborers awaiting
a job but Ive never been quite sure. By
afternoon the crowd has dwindled to
a dozen or so, mostly older men sitting
around playing cards.
Puerto Madero. Puente de la Mujer
57
Midday - nearby ofce workers sit around

for lunch, couples rendezvous, snatching
a few romantic moments during the day.
PUERTO MADERO &

COSTANERA SUR
Plaza Alem isnt beautiful, the grass is

worn, but there is a languid life that carries the often weary soul of Buenos Aires.
The restored waterfront area of Puerto Madero is not my favorite place for
spending time in Buenos Aires. Its actually a very nice area, remarkably clean
compared to the rest of the city, but at
the same time Puerto Madero is distinctly without any character that denes it
as part of Buenos Aires. Indeed, it resembles the re-developed riverfront areas found in many mid-sized U.S. cities.
(Puerto Madero even has a TGI Fridays
and a Hooters!) On a short stay, I think
youre safe to skip Puerto Madero.
Parque Ameghino
Plaza San Martn. Old Photograph
D AY 1
As I write this I sit in Plaza Alem facing the grand 1910 Aduana, or customs
building. When the port behind the building was active a hundred years ago, this
spot was bustling with activity. Av Belgrano, bordering the plaza, was the main
route for transporting goods between
the port and the rest of the city.
But if you feel the need to escape the

hectic pace of Buenos Aires and want a
feel for someplace different, then venture just beyond Puerto Madero and
58
the fancy high-rise apartment towers to

the actual coast, Costanera Sur, where
youll nd a lovely tree-lined promenade
and a nature reserve with walking trails.
The Ecological Park (free admittance) is
a great spot for birdwatching and spotting the occasional wildlife typical to the
Pampas wetlands.
Fans of sculpture will surely not want to
miss one of the nest marble works in
the city, Fountain of the Nereids, located at the southern end of the promenade
(or more precisely, 1600 Tristn Achval
Rodrguez street).
In Greek mythology, Nereids are beautiful women, living in the sea, who offer
aid to sailors during storms. Created by
Lola Mora in 1903 the sensual marble
work is typical of Moras rebellious and
controversial style. An outrage over the
nakedness of the gures prompted city
Fountain by Lola Mora
D AY 1
Patio of Museo de la
Crcova
Casa Marc del Pont
ofcials in the early 20th century to

move the sculpture from its original spot
downtown. The art work nally found a
place at this remote spot.
Again, for admirers of sculpture, another
nearby stop is a museum dedicated to
reproductions of great sculptures in the
world. The facility is named for artist Ernesto de la Crcova and located at Tristn Achval Rodrguez 1701, just across
from the Lola Mora sculpture. Many of
the reproductions are from the rst half
of the 20th century. The museum keeps
odd hours, opened Monday Friday
(9:30am 12:30pm & 5:30pm 7:30pm)
and weekends (11am 5pm).
A good restaurant, on the grounds of the
museum, serves typical Argentine food.
VISIT TO
In the late 1800s wealthy residents of

Buenos Airs started building summer
homes, quintas, in the village of Flores.
At that time Flores was located a good
ways from the congested, smelly center
of the city.
The slightly higher elevation of Flores
offered a fresh breeze air. Today, the
city of Buenos Aires encompasses Flores
though this former summer village is still
somewhat difcult to reach. But that is
changing with the opening of the subway extension. The easiest way to get
there today is by taking the A line of
the subway to the end of the line, which
is now Caballito (though soon the subway will go all the way to Flores). From
Caballito you can walk ten nice blocks
west to Flores.
F LORES
A stroll around the streets of Flores, Av
Yerbal or Bacacay, for instance, reveals
the nice homes that would t in just as
well in the more known neighborhoods
of Recoleta and Palermo.
One of the oldest homes in Flores is now
a cultural center. Casa Marco del Pont
(206 Artigas street) is adjacent to the
historic train station and thats another
sight that should be visited for a bit of
the 19th century. You can freely enter the
house and wander the grounds. On Sunday evenings you might encounter tango
dancing in one of the houses salons.
While Flores still has a large share of upper middle class residents, the lower half
of Flores is dominated by more recent
immigrants and includes a large Korean
neighborhood.
59
Recommended
RESTAURANTS
THAN
CASA
20 PICTURE-PERFECT SPOTS
(the guidebooks dont tell you about)
DEL
FANTASMA
The garment district in the heart of the

Jewish barrio, stirring with activity on
weekday mornings.
WHERE: Start at Paso & Lavalle and wander around.
La Posada de 1820 Tucumn 501, corner

of San Martn (downtown)
Los Pinos Azcunaga 1500 (Recoleta)
36 Billares, Av de Mayo 1265
Chiquiln Sarmiento 1599 (center)
Don Ernesto Carlos Calvo 375 (San Telmo)
Arturito Av. Corrientes 1124 (center)
Restaurant Casal de Catalunya Chacabuco 863 (San Telmo)
The most comprehensive online source

for restaurant reviews is Oleo (www.
guiaoleo.com.ar), which features comments and ratings by locals.
SaltShaker
At www.saltshaker.net youll nd the
ongoing examination of the Buenos
Aires food scene by American expat
and chef Dan Perlman, who offers not
only his own reviews of restaurants
but also a unique dining experience at
his own Casa SaltShaker.
ONCE
D AY 1
60
MORE
ABANDONED BOATS
61
This art nouveau apartment building from

1915 features the ghost of a painter who
committed suicide and haunts the upper
oors. (Some people do say La Boca can
be a rather scary place at night).
WHERE: corner of Benito Perez Galds
and Av Almirante Brown
1908 TRAIN STATION
IN
BARRACAS
Rusted remains rest in a formerly vibrant

shipping channel. This is a rather remote
spot along the smelly riverfront. Youll
probably be the only tourist around and
even very few locals, so you should be
careful if you venture down here.
WHERE: Montes de Oca & Pedro de Mendoza
A small, picturesque train station at the

southern edge of Buenos Aires, secluded
from the rest of the city and apparently
from the passage of time.
WHERE: Villarino & A. Bardi streets
STREET
POSTERS
More than just advertising, street posters
Architecturally, perhaps the most impressive synagogue in Latin America.

WHERE: 1444 Brandsen street
QUILMES
TRUCK
WHERE: 3050 Ugarteche street
OLD
POCKETWATCH STORE
AV CASEROS
SANTA FELICITAS
A couple of the nicest blocks on the south

side. One side of the 400 block was built
for the English managers of the railroads.
WHERE: 400 & 500 blocks Av Caseros
OLD GARAGES...GUIDO
This distribution center for Argentinas

most popular beer features a facade unlike any other in the city.
WHERE: 1400 block on Piedras street
D AY 1
are forms of social and political expression. Not everyone reads the newspapers
or watches the news on TV but everyone
sees the posters on the street.
WHERE: everywhere!
62
63
PALACIO
DE LOS
PATOS
A beautiful church constructed in 1875

for the memory of a young woman murdered by a spurned suitor.
WHERE: Isabel La Catlica street, between Pinzn & Brandsen streets
TEMPLO ISRAELITA SEFARDI OR TORAH
Stylish parking lots of the early 20th century for when cars were new and just for
the wealthy...many examples in the city,
such as the art deco garage in Recoleta
WHERE: 1653 Guido street
Massive apartments from 1928. Be sure
to peek through the front entrance at the
mail boxes and courtyard.
On an incredibly charming street in the

center of Buenos Aires, a family of watch
repairers maintain the time.
WHERE: Pasaje Rivarola
IN
CABALLITO
One block, never visited by tourists,

proves that the citys graceful architecture isnt conned to only one or two
neighborhoods.
home of one of the citys greatest writers

of the last century.
WHERE: Posadas & Av. Alvear
TILE
WORK ON BUILDINGS
Magnicent apartments from the early

days of the 20th century on a street lined
with art galleries.
WHERE: Arroyo & Suipacha
ELECTRIC SUBSTATIONS
THE
Deteriorating quickly, there are still great

examples of tiles adorning many buildings.
WHERE: everywhere!
64
This red brick apartment building from

1911 is a dramatic divergence from the
French inuenced architecture dominating Buenos Aires.
WHERE: 3791 Cabello street
More examples of municipal utilities being housed in splendid architecture.

WHERE: Throughout the city, but particularly in San Telmo.
ARCHITECT SIGNATURES
AGUAS CORRIENTES
65
COLEGIO NACIONAL
The countrys most prestigious high
school in the oldest sector of the city.
A good spot for observing the youth of
Buenos Aires if you go by when school is
ending for the day.
WHERE: 233 Bolivar street
FACTORY
BENCICH
A former cookie factory that shows the

stylish side of the industrial revolution in
Argentina.
WHERE: Av Martn Garcia, across from
Parque Lezama
OMBU
FERNNDEZ BLANCO
The citys latest restoration of a house

whose grand interior shows how the elite
once lived.
WHERE: 1418 Hiplito Yrigoyen street
LA COLORADA
CANALE
HOUSE OF
TREE NEAR
BIOYS
HOUSE
One of the great trees in the city, near the
An architectural detail to search out are

the distinctive signatures of those who
designed the buildings.
WHERE: everywhere!
D AY 1
PAYSANDU STREET
BUILDING
Simply the most astonishing building in

Buenos Aires, both architecturally and for
its use to house the citys waterworks.
WHERE:1950 Cordoba Av
PHOTO CREDITS
Many thanks to all the photographers that
collaborated with their images to make this book:
Hctor Antonio Vzquez Brust
page 12, Congress Building
page 14, Basilica de San Francisco
page 37, BA at night
Karine Aggery
page 29, Centro Cultural Recoleta
page 33, Plaza San Martin
page 35, Florida Street
Carla Peroni
page 16, Microcentro
Miro Schaap
page 17, Obelisk
Hernan Herrero
page 22, Bandoneon
Marcelo Gerpe
page 26, Recoleta Cemetery
Ivn Javier Bagal
page 42, Museo Renault
Debbie Schiel
page 60, Restaurant
Daniel Battiston
page 57, Puerto Madero
Cleferson Comarela Barbosa
page 51, Colorful Houses in La Boca
TYPOGRAPHY
This book was typeset in the Rotis Family,

designed by Otl Aicher in 1988 as a
maximum readability typeface.
Barbara Lana
page 46, sifones in Sunday Market
Core21
page 46, San Telmo tango scene

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4 PER FEC T D AYS IN BUENOS AIRES

WALKING BUENOS AIRES

WALKING BUENOS AIRES

DAY 2 Barrio Norte

DAY 4 San Telmo

EXTRA DAY Explore

How do you Fall in Love with a City? 9