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Burger Et Al, FeedbckChallengDevelopmWhitenr16Abstrc
Cosmetics|FreeFullText|SkinWhiteningCosmetics:FeedbackandChallengesintheDevelopmentofNaturalSkinLighteners
Cosmetics2016,3(4),36doi:10.3390/cosmetics3040036
SkinWhiteningCosmetics:Feedbackand
ChallengesintheDevelopmentofNaturalSkin
Lighteners
PaulineBurger1 , AnneLandreau1,2 , StphaneAzoulay1 , ThomasMichel1 and
XavierFernandez 1,*
1
2
UniversitCtedAzur,CNRS,InstitutdeChimiedeNiceUMR7272,06108Nice,France
UniversitdAngers,UFRSant,16BoulevardDaviers,Cedex01,49045Angers,
France
Authortowhomcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressed.
AcademicEditor:JohannaMariaGillbo
Received:28September2016/Revised:21October2016/Accepted:24October2016/
Published:28October2016
(ThisarticlebelongstotheSpecialIssuePigmentationcorrectingingredientsCrucial
NeedforInnovationtoLeadtheWay)
ViewFullText|DownloadPDF[3246KB,uploaded28October2016]|
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Abstract
Withthepublicsgrowinginterestinskinwhitening,lighteningingredientsonlyusedunder
dermatologicalsupervisionuntilrecently,aremoreandmorefrequentlyincorporatedinto
cosmeticformulas.Theactiveagentsthatlightenskintoneareeithernaturalorsynthetic
substances,andmayactatvariouslevelsofmelanogenesis.Theyareusedtotreat
variousskinpigmentationdisordersorsimplytoobtainalighterskintoneaswhiterskin
maybesynonymousofwealth,health,youth,and/orbeautyindifferentcultures.However,
recentstudiesdemonstratedtheadverseeffectsofsomeoftheseingredients,leadingto
theirinterdictionorrestricteduseundertheEuropeanDirectiveandseveralother
internationalregulations.Afteranoverviewofskinwhiteningpracticesandtheassociated
risks,thisarticleprovidesinsightintothemechanismsinvolvedinmelaninsynthesisand
thebiologicalassaysavailabletoattestthelighteningactivityofindividualingredients.The
legislationdealingwiththeuseofskinlightenersisthendiscussed.Astraditional
depigmentingagentssuchashydroquinoneandcorticosteroidsareofsafetyconcern,the
potentialofnaturalextractshasbeeninvestigatedmoreandmorefinally,asynthesisof
threeyearsofresearchinourlaboratoryforsuchplantextractswillbegiven.ViewFull
Text
Keywords:skinlighteningwhiteningagentsmelanogenesisplantextractsbiological
assays
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Cosmetics|FreeFullText|SkinWhiteningCosmetics:FeedbackandChallengesintheDevelopmentofNaturalSkinLighteners
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Burger,P.Landreau,A.Azoulay,S.Michel,T.Fernandez,X.SkinWhiteningCosmetics:
FeedbackandChallengesintheDevelopmentofNaturalSkin
Lighteners.Cosmetics2016,3,36.
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