Charming & Winsome Raggedy Annie & FolkArt Patterns

USA * Muncie, IN
http://www.lilliemaescrafts.com
lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com

Lillie Mae's Crafts

Staining: Instant coffee, vanilla extract, fragrance oil. Optional for staining:
Old cookie sheet, rags, wax paper, glass jar with lid.

Rusting: White vinegar, peroxide, salt, paper towels, sprits bottle, large plastic
container.

Muslin
Stuffing
Card Stock
Mechanical Pencil
Doll needle (3 or 5 inches long)
Paint: Acrylic paint black, barn red, antique white
Embroidery Floss: Country red
Wood or plastic ruler
Embroidery needles
Paint brushes
Pinking shears (optional)
Hemostats (optional)
Small spray bottle for water (optional)
Basic Sewing Supplies

Basic Supplies for Dolls Only:

Bits & Pieces Annie Doll Designs

By Brenda Greenwalt of Lillie Mae's Crafts

Bits & Pieces Annie Designs

"Annie Doll Designs"

Lillie Mae's Crafts

Ten years ago, after completing my first Annie doll, I knew my life would
never be the same again; I had found my passion. Since then I have gone on
to cr eate my own Annie designs. I find that I just can't get enough. I'm
no sooner working on one design than I have the next one working in my
mind. The sense of accomplishment achieved when completing an Annie is
one that I cannot describe. Each one is individual with a per sonality all her
own.
In this booklet you will find 11 separate Annie designs from 10-inch dolls up
to 19-inch dolls. Some will come with bodice, skirt, dress, and/or bloomer
designs and other s do not. Each doll is complete with head/body, ar ms and
legs.
Everything you need to complete your very own individual Annie doll is
included here in this book. Just r emember though that everything is
copyrighted. So please feel free to sell your finished dolls on E-bay, craft
fair s, etc., but please give Lillie Mae's Crafts the credit for the design.
Sohappy sewing. Wishing you much luck in all your crafting endeavor s.
Many Blessings,
Brenda

Lillie Mae's Crafts

A L i l l i e M a e s Cr a ft s o r igi n a l E - Bo o k b y Br e nd a Gr e e n w al t
B it s & P i ec e s A n n i e D e s ig n s
Cr e a ti n g a n A n n i e R a g Do l l fr o m S t ar t to F i ni s h
Co nt e n t s:
A n n i e R ag Do l l Tu to r i al . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
F ac i al F e a tur e Tr a n s f er e nc e Tu to r i al . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
P ai n t i ng S ho e s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
T i ps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 0
Tr ic ks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2
S it e s o f In t er e s t. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5
R ec ip e s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8
Do l l P at t er n & Cl o t h e s fo r :
10 i nc h d o l l p at t er n s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 9
12 i nc h d o l l p at t er n s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1
15 i nc h d o l l p at t er n s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3
17 i nc h d o l l p at t er n s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0
19 i nc h d o l l p at t er n s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6
R e ad thr o u g h al l d ir e c ti o ns b e fo r e b eg i n n i n g.
Terms of Use:
All of my craft patterns are copyrighted. You may create a reasonable amount of items
from my patterns for craft fairs, bazaars, craft malls, and auctions as long as you give Lillie
Mae's Crafts credit for the design. You MAY NOT mass produce items from my patterns.
Copying for any reason at all is strictly prohibited. You DO NOT have permission to alter
them in any way. No wholesaling of items made from my patterns. My patterns are not to
be shared or redistributed in any form without my express permission. If you have any
questions, please feel free to e-mail me at lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com

Annie Rag Doll Tutorial

Supplies:
Muslin 1/4 yard
Pencil or disappearing fabric pen.
Straight pins
Stuffing
Basic sewing materials
Optional: Pinking shears, hemostats, stuffing helpers.
1. Print out the doll patterns on card stock. Place them on
doubled muslin and trace around the pattern pieces either with
a pencil or disappearing fabric pen; don't forget to trace
around 2 arms and 2 legs. Pin.

2. Machine stitch
directly on the
lines you just
traced being sure
to leave open
where indicated on
patterns.

3. Cut out your pattern pieces about 1/4 inch away

from your sewn lines. I use pinking shears for this
as it softens the edges and helps ease the pieces
into a tight area such as the neck; remove all the
bulk that can hamper a good, smooth curve.

4. Clip curves and turn. To assist with

turning, many doll makers have purchased
hemostats. These are actually medical
tools, but can be easily purchased and are
a great asset when trying to turn those
small doll pieces such as arms and legs.
Here is a picture of mine. You'll notice I
have applied tape to one side of the
handles; this is because my particular set
of hemostats has a locking device on that
side so to keep it from locking on me as
I'm trying to use it I wrapped tape around that side. There are actually many
different types and sizes of hemostats. These can be purchased in the fishing
department at Wal-Mart, at local medical supply stores, and on line. These are also
a great asset for stuffing.

5. After turning, your next step is stuffing. This

is when you will really begin to see the shape of
your Annie taking form. I've heard doll makers
use many different "tools" to help them with
stuffing such as screwdrivers, shish kabob
skewers, etc. My personal favorite tool is a
paintbrush handle; I'll use several different sizes.
The very small handles I use for the hands and
thumb and any other small narrow parts. For the
larger body area, I use a handle from one of my
brushes that actually fell off. On one end it is

completely flat and this helps with "packing." As I said, I usually stuff my dolls very firmly.
I've taken a picture here of "hemostats." These are actually medical tools but can be
purchased in the fishing or sport department at Wal-Mart, at local medical supply stores, or
online.
Here I am stuffing with, of course, one of my paintbrush handles.

This is a picture to help you see how hemostats can be useful when stuffing
legs, arms, etc.

6. As I stuff each section, I spray

it with a little water. As the water
dries, the material shrinks and
helps with any bumps or bulges and
leaves your doll looking smooth and
firm.

7. To keep the "rag doll" effect of a

primitive doll, I will stop stuffing about
2 inches from the top of the legs and
arms.

Here is the head and body part completely

stuffed.

8. Our next step is to sew the openings, left for

turning, closed. On the arms and legs, I will machine
stitch the closings.

9. The head and body section, however, has to be hand stitched

closed.

10. I will usually sew the arms on approximately

1/2 inch from the head. Just line them up evenly
on the body. Look at your head and decide which
side you want for the front (face) and sew your
arms on with the thumbs pointed towards the
front of the body.

11. If you have not stained your material before

you started now is the time when you would do
that. Also, if you have elected to paint your doll's
feet for shoes then you might want to do that after staining, but before you sew the legs
on. That is my preferred way at any rate. I find it so much easier to paint the feet before
the legs are attached to the body.
For the purposes of this class though, we've going
to go ahead and sew the legs on. Simply stand
your doll on her head and line up the top of the
legs with the opening on the body of the doll that
has now been sewn shut. Make sure the feet are
pointed inwards and towards each other. Attach
the legs to the body with a simple whipstitch.

Here is the finished doll. Notice her thumbs are pointed towards the front and her feet
are pointed inward and towards each other.

Facial Feature Transference Tutorial

Introduction
I had a terrible time with the facial features on my very first primitive doll. After that I
started to dread it when it came time to do the face; but I absolutely loved every other
aspect of primitive doll making. So I experimented with several different methods and I
finally came up with an idea that made working on the face, for me, actually enjoyable. Now
not only do I no longer dread the time to embroider the nose or paint the eyes, I actually
sincerely love that part of primitive doll making. I hope this very simple and very easy
method works as well for you as it has for me.
Supplies:
Dark Brown Embroidery Floss #839
Red Embroidery Floss #221
Acrylic Paint
Black
Antique white
FolkArt Barnyard Red acrylic paint
Hard plastic or wood ruler
Flexible ruler
Mechanical Pencil
Card stock
Scissors
Small paint brush
Medium stencil paint brush
5-inch doll needle
Small embroidery needle
Paper plates
Paper towels
Instructions:
Eyes:
1. Print and cut out eye patterns on card stock.

2. Looking at the picture, place eye patterns where you desire on the dolls face and
place a few straight pins to keep them in place.

3. With a flexible measuring tape, measure from the side seam to the eye on one
side and do the same on the other. Make adjustments to the eyes as necessary
until they are both of equal distance from the side seam to the edge of the
eyes. Once you have those straight, take the flexible measuring tape and lay it
down straight across the face directly underneath the eyes making sure they
are straight and even with each other. Tack them in place with straight pins.

4. Using a mechanical pencil, trace outline of eyes. Note: I use a mechanical pencil
and recommend it to my customers as it has a finer line than regular #2 pencils.
The wider the pencil line, the wider the eye. Using a small paint brush and with
your black acrylic paint, very carefully outline the eyes.

5. Then again very carefully paint in the rest of the eye. Let dry.

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6. With the end of your small paintbrush, dip the very end of the handle lightly in
the antique white acrylic paint and very carefully dot in the whites of the eyes.

Nose:
1.

Print and cut out the nose pattern on card stock.

2. Looking at the picture, place nose pattern where you desire on the face and keep
it in place with straight pins.

3. Using a mechanical pencil, outline the nose pattern. Thread your 5-inch doll
needle with 2 strands of the red embroidery floss. Going in from the very top
of the head with your needle (this would be covered with her hair) go all the way
down to the bottom of her nose. Now...the 5-inch doll needle is necessary to
reach from the top of her head down to the bottom of her nose, but it would be
very difficult to try to stitch the nose with this long needle. When I get to the
bottom of the nose I remove my embroidery floss from the doll needle and
rethread it on a smaller needle.

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4. Keeping the stitches very close together, satin stitch the entire nose. In case
you're not familiar with a satin stitch, there is an illustration of the satin stitch
towards the end of these instructions. When you are at the top of the nose and
ready for the last stitch, unthread your embroidery floss from the small needle
and rethread on your long 5-inch doll needle. Take the last stitch at the top of
the nose and come out at the top of the head again. Tie a knot in the thread and
trim floss.

Mouth:
1. Print and cut out the mouth pattern on card stock.

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2. Looking at the picture, place the mouth where you want and once again, with the
flexible rule, measure on both sides of the mouth and make sure you have it
evenly placed on the face. Pin with straight pins.

3. With a mechanical pencil, trace the very bottom of your doll's mouth up to the
point of the bolded line (in the middle of the mouth pattern).

4. To outline curves at the outside corners of the mouth (some call them dimples),
unpin the mouth pattern and move it so that one of the very ends of the mouth
pattern is situated at one of the corners of the mouth that you have just traced
on your doll. Line the bold mark (in the middle of the pattern) up with the line
of the mouth you just traced. This is where you will want the curves, so trace an
outline here. Do the same on the other side of the mouth.

5. Thread

your 5inch doll

needle
with 1 strand of the dark brown embroidery floss. Go in from the top of the
head again and go all the way down and come out with your needle on one side of
the mouth. For the mouth, especially around the curves, you will want to take
small stitches; this will be easier with a smaller needle. So once again unthread
your 5-inch doll needle and rethread on a small embroidery needle. Backstitch
the mouth. When you are ready for your last stitch, unthread your small needle,
rethread your doll needle and take your last stitch and with your needle inside
the doll take it all the way back up to the center of the top of the head and
bring your needle out. Tie off and trim thread.

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Eyebrows & Eyelashes:

1. The eyebrows and eyelashes are really very simple to make. You will need your
firm, not flexible, ruler. The eyebrows are 1/4 inch and the eyelashes are each
1/2 each. For the eyebrows, start at the very outer edge of the eye, place your
ruler there and with your mechanical pencil draw a line 1/4 inch long; do this for
both eyes.

2. For your eyelashes, draw the very bottom lash first as this one you can place in
the very center of the eye; then draw the outer two eyelashes on either side of
the first one. Again with your firm ruler, place where you want the eyelashes
and with your mechanical pencil draw 3 eyelashes for each eye 1/2 inch long.

3. Thread your doll needle with a very long strand (1 strand) of the dark brown
embroidery floss and using simple backstitches, stitch the eyelashes on one eye,
go up and stitch the eyebrow on that eye. Do the same on the second eye ending
with the eyebrow as it is then simple to take your thread back up and out
through the very top of the doll's head. You can backstitch the eyelashes and
eyebrows with one long (or short) stitch. When going from one eye to the other,
you may need to unthread your small needle and switch to your long needle and
then once you are at the next eye switch back to your small needle. Tie your
thread off and trim.

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Cheeks:
1. Dip a small amount of your barn red paint onto a paper towel. Light dip your medium
stencil brush into the red paint.

2. Pounce the brush off on paper towels. Pounce, pounce, and pounce. Unless you want
her cheeks to be very red, you will really want to pounce your brush onto the paper
towel until it appears as if there is no paint left on the brush (believe me there is
still paint there). Then very lightly, in circular motions, paint on her cheeks. Let
dry.

Here's your finished doll.

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The face for your primitive doll is now done. I really sincerely hope you enjoyed it.
Remember also that a primitive doll is supposed to have the appearance of a worn, wellloved, old doll. One that has been slept with, played with and drug around everywhere...they
are not supposed to be perfect and in fact the more "imperfect" they are, the more
desirable and the more "primitive." For instance, if you look at the nose on this doll...in the
picture, you will notice that I somehow ended up curving it a bit towards the top. If I had
wanted to, I could have taken the stitches out and stitched the nose again. But...I decided
I like it; I think it gives her a character all her own. And I'm sure your dolls with have their
own character as well.
Terms of Use:
This PDF pattern nor the methods or patterns expressed within are to be shared as in
compliance with copyright laws.
All of my craft patterns are copyrighted. You may create a reasonable amount of items
from my patterns for craft fairs, bazaars, craft malls, and auctions as long as you give Lillie
Mae's Crafts credit for the design. You MAY NOT mass produce items from my patterns.
Copying for any reason at all is strictly prohibited. You DO NOT have permission to alter
them in any way. No wholesaling of items made from my patterns. My patterns are not to
be shared or redistributed in any form without my express permission. If you have any
questions, please feel free to e-mail me at lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com

Here are illustrations of the satin stitch and back stitch.

16

Facial Feature Patterns

Eyes

Nose

A couple of samples of where to dot on the whites of the eyes.

or

17

Mouth

Primitive Annie Rag Doll

Face Transference Placement Pattern

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Painting Shoes
Supplies
Small paint brush
Black acrylic paint
Thread and needle
Wire hanger
Pencil
Sandpaper
Instructions:
Preparation: With needle and thread, attach a small strand of yarn to top of leg (for
hanging to dry) and tie in a knot. With your wire hanger, bend ends up. Draw outline for
shoes (see pattern) with pencil.
Paint Shoes: With black acrylic paint, paint over the outline first.

and then fill in.

When finished painting, hang up on hanger to dry.

I will often put a fan on them to dry them faster.

Once dry, lightly sandpaper them.

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Tips
1.
2.

3.
4.
5.

6.
7.

8.
9.
10.

11.

12.

13.
14.

I stuff my dolls fairly firmly; to prevent seams from popping due to stress placed on
them, set your sewing machine for small stitches.
When stuffing, try to feed the poly-fil stuffing in with one long continuous flow of
stuffing. helps to prevent air bubbles which can develop between small pieces of
stuffing.
Spray water when stuffingshrinks the muslin and results in a tighter smoother look
to your doll. Tip spray each section of the doll right before stuffing that area.
After painting the dolls feet for shoes, sand for a more vintage look. However, be
very careful you don't sand too much or you might end up with holes.
After sewing your doll, cut her out with pinking shears; this helps soften the edges,
helps ease the pieces into tight areas such as the neck, and removes all the bulk
that can hamper a good, smooth curve. Gives a smoother finish to your doll.
Buy middle of the line muslin; I've had some of the cheaper that ripped easily.
After painting shoes (feet) black, when sanding, be careful as the dust from the
sanded black paint can get on your fingers and thus get on the rest of the dolls
leg...or if sanding the upper shoe, close to the leg, the dust can get on there.
Make several different body types; larger or smaller heads, hands with and without
thumbs, smaller and larger feet, etc.
Print our each doll pattern on card stock and print out the instructions on plain
paper. Store in large zip lock bags and label them.
When storing your own designs not only keep the patterns for each doll together
but also the leg designs together, arms together, bodies and heads, etc. When you
begin your next doll you can pull these out and decide which arms, legs, etc. you want
for your next doll.
A hemostat is an essential tool for turning as far as I'm concerned. Turning very
small sewn pieces was a struggle before I discovered this nifty little tool. I've
included a picture of one here in this class. I'm not sure you can really see in the
picture, but they actually have little teeth which help to grip and hold your fabric
for ease in turning. I also use these for stuffing. I use them for grabbing and
holding onto the stuffing as I then ease the stuffing into the arms, legs, etc. These
can be bought online as well as at Wal-Mart in the fishing department or at medical
supply stores.
Skirt patterns are not included as they are easy and simple to
make. Simply measure the area where your skirt will be attached
to the bodice and either double it or triple it depending on how
full you want her skirt.
Stuffing lines: I usually stop stuffing the arms about 1-1/2 inches from the top of
the arm (open end) and 2 inches from the top of the legs.
Unfortunately not everything attempted turns out the way we desire. Once you put
your doll in the oven you are at the mercy of the fates. I cannot tell you how many
dolls I've pulled from the oven with dark stains strewn about their face. However,

20

you must consider this. "Primitive", by definition, means "imperfect." That's their
charm. Andthere is a buyer for every doll. If you are active in craft fairs, etc.,
include these dolls.
15. If you've had bad luck with baking your doll, try purchasing the tea-dyed muslin.
16. Experiment with different stains, baking times and degrees. Try hanging your doll
up to dry instead of baking. I found that I love the look of purchasing the tea-dyed
muslin and then staining it. It comes out with a look that I just love.
17. For my skirt pattern, I will often use a piece of card stock and putting the short
end of the card stock on the fold.

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Tricks

22

23

24

Sites of Interest

25

26

27

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Recipes
Where I purchase
Staining: Combine cup instant coffee, 2 cups hot water, 1/4 cup Vanilla extract and
teaspoon fragrance oil (Some of my preferred scents are cinnamon bun, sugar cookies, and
vanilla) in a glass jar with lid. Shake for few minutes until thoroughly mixed. If the scent is
not strong enough for your preference, add another 1/8 teaspoon of fragrance oil and
continue this until the scent is to your liking. However, I would suggest only adding 1/8
teaspoon of fragrance oil each time because if you add too much and the scent is too strong
for you, you will have to start over. Line an old cookie sheet with old rags and lay what
youre staining here. With a sponge brush or spray bottle thoroughly coat. Bake for 10
minutes at 200 degrees. Check often as this can catch on fire. If you have to bake longer,
only bake at 5 minute increments and always KEEP checking the oven. Store left over stain
mixture in glass jar with lid for your next primitive project.
Rusting Recipe: Combine 2 cups white vinegar, 1/4 cup peroxide and 2 tablespoons salt in a
large plastic container; soak for 4 hours. Remove to paper towels, spritz with peroxide and
spread salt on them. Let sit for another 2 hours. NOTE: This recipe calls for a large
container as this recipe foams up pretty quickly.

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Bits & Pieces

10-inch Doll Patterns

Bits & Pieces

10-inch doll pattern
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

30

Bits & Pieces

10-inch bodice/dress pattern
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved
Neck

Place on Fold

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Bits & Pieces

12-inch Doll Patterns

Bits & Pieces

12-inch doll pattern
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

32

Bits & Pieces

12-inch doll leg pattern

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

12-inch doll arm pattern

Bits & Pieces

12-inch Bodice/Dress Pattern
Bits & Pieces
12-inch doll Bloomers Pattern

Place on Fold

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010
Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

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Bits & Pieces

15-inch Doll Patterns

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

34

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

35

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll bodice pattern
Doll 1

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll bloomers pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Place on Fold

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

37

Place on Fold

38

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll bodice pattern
Doll 2

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll pattern
Doll 3
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Attach Arms Here

Nellie
Head/Body Pattern
Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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40

Bits & Pieces

15-inch Arm Pattern
Doll 3
Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 3

Bits & Pieces

15-inch doll Bodice pattern
Doll 3

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Place on Fold

Bits & Pieces

17-inch Doll Patterns

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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42
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 1

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 1

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

44

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll Bodice/Dress Pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

45

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

46

Place on Fold

Bits & Pieces

17-inch doll bloomers pattern
Doll 2

XX

XX

Bits & Pieces

X
19-inch Doll Patterns

Bits & Pieces

19-inch Doll Pattern
Doll 1
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Attach Arms Here

X

Daisy Bea
Head/Body Pattern
Copyright 2008 Lillie Maes Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Tape Head/Body Extension Here

Tape to Body/Head Extension Here

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Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 1

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 1

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Tape to Body/Head Pattern

Head/Body Extension

48
Place on Fold

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll panty pattern
Doll 1

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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50

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll leg pattern
Doll 2

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll arm pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll pattern Bodice Pattern
Doll 2
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

51

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Place on Fold

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll bloomers pattern
Doll 2

52

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Pattern
Doll 3
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

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54
Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Arm Pattern
Doll 3

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Leg Pattern
Doll 3

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Bloomers Pattern
Doll 3

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

55

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Dress Pattern
Doll 3

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

56

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Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts
All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch doll Arm Pattern
Doll 4

Bits & Pieces

19-inch Doll Pattern
Doll 4

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

Bits & Pieces

19-inch Doll Leg Pattern
Doll 4

Bits & Pieces

19-inch Doll Bodice Pattern
Doll 4

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

58

Bits & Pieces

19-inch Doll Bloomers Pattern
Doll 4

Place on Fold

Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts

All Rights Reserved

59