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Jul 30, 2012
The Slave Who Circumnavigated The World
by Josh Fruhlinger
Part of a month-long series on terrible trips, great journeys and getting lost.
Here are some geographic and economic realities, as any educated European of the
late 1400s would have understood them: The European diet was monotonous and peo
ple were willing to pay good money for spices to liven up their meals. Those spi
ces for the most part came from places to the east, lumped together in the Europ
ean mind as the Indies. The easy and obvious routes there were blocked by Muslim s
tates that were hostile to Christendom, and that made good money on the spice tr
ade and weren t interested in sharing the profits with Europeans. And since the wo
rld was round (yes, everyone knew even then that the world was round), it was th
eoretically possible to bypass the Muslim world and reach those places in the Ea
st by sailing west, although nobody knew exactly how far a voyage that would be.
By 1494, a few more facts had come to light. Christopher Columbus, an Italian em
ployed by the Spanish government, had sailed west and found some islands that he
was convinced were the easternmost fringe of the Indies. A few years before tha
t, the Portuguese had had a breakthrough in the other direction: Bartolomeu Dias
, a Portuguese nobleman and captain, had finally proven that Africa did not exte
nd south indefinitely, but could be circumnavigated, with the Indies presumably
accessible to the north and east of the Cape of Good Hope. To head off potential
conflict, the Pope (himself a Spaniard) negotiated a treaty between the two Ibe
rian countries. He cut the world in half, roughly down the middle of the Atlanti
c, and, ignoring not only the people who lived in these far-off lands but also e
veryone else in Europe, gave the everything east of the line to Portugal and eve
rything west of the line to Spain.
A Malay, who we know as Enrique of Malacca but whose real name is unrecorded, wo
uld have his life defined by these European schemes. He is, it turns out, the cl
osest thing there is to a hero in the story of Ferdinand Magellan s horribly botch
ed attempt to circumnavigate the world.
***
Everyone knows what the Spanish did after 1492: they conquered the islands of th
e Caribbean, then the mainland of Meso- and South America, killing thousands thr
ough war and slavery and millions with diseases, and slowly realizing that their
new empire wasn t in the Indies at all, but in a whole new continent nobody in th
e Old World had known existed. The Portuguese, staying on their eastern side of
the dividing line, were more focused. Whereas even the strongest American states
were no match technologically or organizationally for the Spanish, the Portugue
se sailed into the Indian Ocean and found adversaries over whom they had just a
bit of an edge. So they conquered where they could, intimidated when couldn t, and
sometimes even made friends, ending up with an odd little empire of isolated fo
rts and cities protected by a powerful Indian Ocean-based navy. The goal was to
seize control of the spice trade from the Muslim merchants who had monopolized i
t. In 1511, they captured Malacca, a city on the Malay peninsula that controlled
ship traffic between modern-day Indonesia (home of all those delicious, expensi
ve spices) and the West. Cairo and Mecca would be entirely ruined, gloated the Por
tuguese viceroy in advance of the raid, and so it was; Egypt s spice monopoly coll
apsed and the country was conquered by the Turks just a few years later.
One Portuguese adventurer present at the capture of Malacca was Ferno de Magalhes,
whose name is usually Anglicized to Ferdinand Magellan. Among the rather consid
erable spoils of war Magellan took in the battle was a human being. We have no e
vidence of what his name was at birth, but Magellan renamed him Enrique, probabl
y because he was baptized as a Christian on St. Henry s feast day, a few days afte
r the siege of Malacca began. Here is what Magellan says about Enrique in his wi
ll:

And by this my present will and testament, I declare and ordain as free and quit
of every obligation of captivity, subjection, and slavery, my captured slave En
rique, mulatto, native of the city of Malacca, of the age of twenty-six years mo
re or less, that from the day of my death thenceforward for ever the said Enriqu
e may be free and manumitted, and quit, exempt, and relieved of every obligation
of slavery and subjection, that he may act as he desires and thinks fit; and I
desire that of my estate there may be given to the said Enrique the sum of ten t
housand maravedis in money for his support; and this manumission I grant because
he is a Christian, and that he may pray to God for my soul.
Other sources call Enrique a native of Sumatra, the island just across the strai
ts from Malacca, and (as we ll see) he was fluent in the language of the islands,
so he almost certainly wasn t a mulatto in the sense we d expect (i.e., of mixed Afric
an and European heritage), but rather a Malay, a rather exotic ethnicity to cont
emporary Europeans. We don t know whether his conversion was genuine or compelled
or an attempt to curry favor with his captors. We don t know whether he ever had a
ny intention of praying for the soul of the man who kidnapped him and took him t
housands of miles away from the world he knew.
***
Magellan was something of a crank who fell out with his commanders. He returned
to Europe, bringing Enrique home with him, fought in Portugal s wars in Morocco, g
ot a leg wound, was accused of illegally trading with the enemy, left the army u
nder a cloud. He studied navigation charts and became more and more convinced th
at the islands in Indonesia that were the source of the most valuable spices cou
ld be reached by sailing west from Europe and around the Americas.
This was obviously of little interest to Portugal, which was enjoying a pretty g
ood spice trade return on its strategic conquest investment at this point, but i
t piqued the interest of the Spanish. Spain s new empire in the Caribbean wasn t tur
ning out to be as profitable as had been hoped; the conquest of Mexico was just
getting underway and Peru wouldn t be seized for another decade, so American gold
and silver hadn t started flowing back to Europe yet. Sailing to the Spice Islands
in the Spanish direction (west) would avoid conflict with the Portuguese navy,
and Magellan dangled the possibility that the islands were really on the Spanish
side of the dividing line (an easy prospect to dangle, given how bad everyone w
as at determining latitude at this point). King Charles of Spain gave him five s
hips and a crew of 232, and the rights to a cut of the presumably lucrative spic
e trade he d establish. The expedition left Spain on September 20, 1519. And Enriq
ue went on this trip too? ?he would be invaluable as an interpreter in the region,
obviously, but he also had gone everywhere else Magellan did since his capture,
so there was no reason for him not to also go on this voyage.
The ships sighted South America on the 6th of December, after which virtually ev
erything that happened to expedition was terrible. They had to stay one step ahe
ad of the Portuguese, who were not keen on having Spain slip in on their spice t
rade via the back door? ?in an expedition led by a Portuguese to boot. In March, t
hey established a little settlement in Patagonia; days later, two of the ship s ca
ptains attempted a mutiny, which fizzled out when their crews refused to go alon
g. At least one of the captains was executed, his impaled body left to rot in th
e abandoned town. The ships spent months inching their way down the coast; one w
as wrecked in a storm. In late October, the four remaining ships found what s toda
y named the Straight of Magellan; Magellan himself more modestly named it All Sai
nts Channel, because he was sailing through it on November 1. One more of the ship
s simply turned around and sailed for home at this point, taking most of the exp
edition s food with it. This left behind only three to enter the Pacific, so named
by Magellan because of its eerie stillness. They put South America behind them
on November 28, 1520.
The South Pacific between the Chilean coast and French Polynesia is one of the l
ongest stretches of open ocean in the world, and Magellan, by sailing diagonally
northwest, managed to spend a lot of time in it. By the time they finally got f
ar enough west to a part of the sea where there were islands, they had gotten to
o far north to actually run into any of them. They spotted a couple of tiny isle
ts? ?one in January, one in February? ?but didn t land on them, and for the most part

managed to swing far to the north of Polynesia (then unknown to Europeans) and t
he entire Spice Island chain that had been Magellan s target in the first place.
On March 6, 1521, after what was (for the time) a ridiculous stint of three mont
hs at sea without taking on provisions, the ships finally blundered into the Mar
ianas Islands; the half-starved crew encountered Chamorro locals whose different
understanding of property prompted Magellan to name the archipelago the Islands
of Thieves. The Spanish had big guns, though, so they still had the better of the
encounter. Resupplied with food, and aware now that they had gone too far north
, they turned southward and by March 17 had reached what are today the Philippin
es.
Here s were Enrique re-enters our story. This was a part of the world where they s
poke his language, or something close to it, and so he fulfilled his duties as s
hip s interpreter. Antonio Pigafetta, an Italian crewman who wrote the most detail
ed description of the expedition, refers to him by name only once, as Henrich, but
references to him as the interpreter dot his accounts of the next few weeks. An
d these weeks were among the expedition s most hopeful. They arrived on the island
of Cebu on April 7. Humabon, the local leader, agreed to be baptized as a Chris
tian, then quickly requested that his new allies help him out with an ongoing di
spute he was having with Lapu Lapu, the ruler of the nearby island of Mactan. Ma
gellan agreed, sailed to the island, launched an ill-advised attack on Lapu Lapu s
army, and was killed on April 27. His body was never recovered. The expedition
limped back to Cebu.
Humabon had watched this botched attack from a distance, and apparently decided
that maybe his new friends weren t as impressive as all that. Meanwhile, John Serr
ano, the new leader of the expedition, told Enrique that he would remain a slave
, despite the promises in Magellan s will, because the expedition still needed a t
ranslator. This was not news that he was particularly keen to hear. And so Enriq
ue made the only decision on his own accord that we have recorded in our sources
: he decided to get rid of his tormentors.
Pigafetta reports (with no indication of how he found this information out) that
Enrique had secretly told Humabon that the Europeans planned to kidnap the rule
r and take him prisoner, a European practice Enrique knew a bit about. On May 1,
Humabon invited Serrano and other officers of the expedition to a banquet; Piga
fetta, nursing an arrow wound in his face, stayed back on ship. A couple of crew
men returned and reported an odd vibe among the locals. Then:
Scarcely had they spoken those words when we heard loud cries and lamentations.
We immediately weighed anchor and discharging many mortars into the houses, drew
in nearer to the shore. When thus discharging [our pieces], we saw John Seranno
in his shirt bound and wounded, crying to us not to fire any more, for the nati
ves would kill him. We asked him whether all the others and the interpreter were
dead. He said they were all dead except the interpreter. He begged us earnestly
to redeem him with some of the merchandise; but Johan Carvaio, his boon compani
on, [and others] would not allow the boat to go ashore so that they might remain
masters of the ship. But although Johan Serrano weeping asked us not to set sai
l so quickly, for they would kill him, and said that he prayed God to ask the so
ul of Johan Carvaio, his comrade, in the day of judgment, we immediately departe
d. I do not know whether he is dead or alive.
And that is how Enrique freed himself from slavery and got almost all the way ba
ck to where he had started, a decade after he left, traveling west all the way,
and that is the last we ever hear about him. The Philippines are still several h
undred miles short of Malaysia, but there was commerce all through that part of
the world, and it seems sad to think that, having come so far, he didn t eventuall
y make it home, so I (and many others) assume that he did, thus becoming the fir
st person to circumnavigate the earth. He s now something of a celebrity in Malays
ia: this photo of his statue? ?entirely fanciful, as no contemporary portrait of h
im exists? ?is in the Maritime Museum of Malacca.
***
After abandoning their commander to his death on the Cebu beach, the sailors of
the Spanish expedition headed west. They had suffered so many casualties that th
ey didn t have enough crew left to man their three remaining ships, so they burned

one of them. After wandering through the Indonesia for a while, they really did
manage to find the Spice Islands, in November, and successfully traded for some
cloves and cinnamon. But the Trinidad, the larger of the two ships, had sprung
a leak, and needed to be overhauled. The other ship, the Victoria, sailed west f
or home on December 21; a few weeks later the Trinidad made an abortive attempt
to turn around and go back via the Pacific, but was captured by the Portuguese,
who were still angry that the Spanish were trying to get a piece of their newfou
nd spice monopoly. The crew was imprisoned, and only five lived long enough to r
eturn to Europe, years later.
The Victoria rounded the southern tip of Africa on May 6. On July 9, it reached
the Cape Verde islands in the Atlantic. By this time, 20 crewmen had starved to
death, and now another 13 were left behind in Cape Verde. On September 6, 1522,
just short of three years after it had left, the Victoria arrived in Spain with
19 crewmen and 26 tons of spices. The crew were not paid the full wages they had
been promised, which helped the expedition make a modest profit.
Previously in series: Portraits From A Cross-Country Road Trip, Fly Fishing The
Universe, A Chat With A Person Who Has Been To Disney Parks 40 Times, Hiking Th
e Grand Canyon In A Day, The 2006 World Cup With No Game Plan and The Castaway s G
uide To Making A Home
Josh Fruhlinger never goes anywhere without printing out stuff from Google Maps
first. Follow him on Tumblr or Twitter. Map courtesy of Wikipedia; photo of Enr
ique statue by abdullatif hamidin.
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