Minimization of Reworks in The Apparel Industry PDF

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.
4 ISSN 2305-8269
International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reserved
www.eaas-journal.org
MINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND PRODUCTIVITY

IMPROVEMENT IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY
1
Md. Mazedul Islam
1
Adnan Maroof Khan
2
Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan
Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh 1

Department of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering, Bangladesh University of textiles.
mazed@daffodilvarsity.edu.bd ; maroof215@gmail.com ; mrktex@yahoo.com
Abstract
The fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin, customer demand for
high quality product, product variety and reduced leadtime etc. had a major impact on manufacturing industries.
The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve
their operations through-Producing right first time quality and waste reduction. This paper discusses the quality
and productivity improvement in a manufacturing enterprise through practical study. The paper deals with an
application of methodology in an industry which provides a framework to identify quantify and eliminate sources of
variation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain process performance
with well-executed control plans. The application of this paper improves the process performance of the critical
operational process, leading to better utilization of resources, decreases variations & maintains consistent quality
of the process output. The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and
profitability with improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and improves
internal throughput time. A general overview over this development is given in this paper.
Keywords Costs, Operation, Productivity, Profitability, product Quality, Reworks.
I. Introduction
As the global economic condition changing in a rapid repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments
motion, generally in an industry more focus is given industry is a common works that hampers the smooth
on profit margin, customer demand for high quality production rate and focus poor quality products
product and improved productivity. In garment having an impact on overall factory economy.
manufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments after Minimization of reworks is a must in quality and
shipment. Reason, most of the manufacturers believe productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for
that garments are soft goods and non-repairable poor quality product and low production rate.
defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or Reworks are the non -productive activities focusing
faulty process or employee casual behavior. on any activity that customer are not willing to pay
However, factory must have check points to control for. Non-productive activities describe that the
over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that customer does not consider as adding value to his
can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order product. By reacting quicker in minimization of
is unique. But this paper works suggest how to reworks to make a product as per customer demand
handle this issue and bring down rejection rate to with expected quality, the company can invest less
minimum. We see a lot of rejected garment after money and more costs savings. Therefore, a study
shipment. Most of the organization termed these was carried out in the garment industry named Opex
garments as rejected because those garments cant be & Sinha Textile Group located at Mirpur, Dhaka,
147
January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4 ISSN 2305-8269

Bangladesh at cutting, sewing and finishing section time, cost and improved product quality.
to identify reworks so as to eliminate them for saving
2. Problem Definition and Methodology 6. Implementation of check sheets to capture

defects in different departments
In the Apparel Manufacturing Industry, main raw 7. Training on concepts of quality, importance
material is fabric; others are different types of of maintaining correct data, usage of the
trimming and accessories. Operational wastages in collected data to analyze and solve quality
the Apparel manufacturing process are- top surface issues through the tools of quality
rework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework, 8. Introduction of Inline Inspection on Sewing
pinhole rework, fabric rework Improper fly shape, floor through a pilot run in one line
and other reworks. The general methodology 9. Training on the Sewing floor to QCs,
followed to minimize reworks is given below. supervisors and checkers on filling in the
format and on making Cause & Effect
1. Review of the existing quality system in the Diagrams
company 10. Analysis of defects occurring in the check
2. Identification of defects in the various sheets implemented in various departments
departments by collecting data from old and devising suggestions to improve upon
records them
3. Analysis of data collected in order to 11. Spreading of Inline inspection to other lines
identify majorly occurring defects 12. Tracking of improvements and comparing
4. Categorization of defects them with previous situation in different
5. Development of a model Quality Inspection departments
System 13. Visual communication of performance.
2.1. Review of factory existing Quality System
Fig. 1 Review of Existing Quality System
148

2.1. Identification of Defects

The reports of quality inspections in various departments were studied for the period of January April- 2012.
2.1.1 Cutting Department:
Percentage of lots
3%
21%
PASS
FAIL
HOLD
76%
Fig. 2 Lots percentages overview of cutting departments
2.1.2 Sewing Department
6.00
Defect categories wise D.H.U.
5.06
5.00
4.00
3.36
3.12
3.00 2.70 2.63
2.00
2.00 1.57
1.30 1.19
1.13 1.11 1.02 0.94
1.00 0.68
0.49 0.36 0.34
0.23 0.19 0.10 0.09
0.00
OPEN SEAMS JOINT OUT

UNEVEN MARGIN BALANCING OUT
UNEVEN NECK/PLACKET/W.BAND PUCKERING
EXPOSED RAW STITCH ROPING
FULLNESS WRONG LABEL ATTACH/LABEL MISSING
UNEVEN GATHER FABRIC DEFECTS
BROKEN STITCH LOOSE TENSION
SHADE VARIATION WRONG PANEL ATTACH
ZIPPER PLACEMENT HOOK /LACE/ BUTTON PLACEMENT
Fig. 3 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department
149

2.1.3 Categorizations of Defects
Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by sewing operations in the sewing room or a
errors arising from wrong functioning of sewing combination of these
machines. Fabric defects: These defects are usually caused by
Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the fabric processing like knitting
errors arising from the interaction of the operator and and dyeing.
machine in the handling of garment. Embroidery defects: These defects are usually caused
Placement Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the embroidery processing of
by errors arising in marking and cutting as well as the garments.
2.1.4 Sewing Department Defects categories wise
Defect categories wise D.H.U. (Defects per Hundread Unit)

Total pieces inspected- 30030
25.00 Defects encountered-11778

20.73
D.H.U.- 39.22
20.00
14.00 Where,
15.00
D.H.U.
Seaming defects- 6224
10.00 Sewing defects- 4204

3.37 Placement defects-1012
5.00 1.02
0.10
Fabric defects-307
0.00
Embroidery defects-31
Defect Categories
SEAMING DEFECTS
SEWING DEFECTS
PLACEMENT DEFECTS
FABRIC DEFECTS
EMBROIDERY DEFECTS
Fig. 4 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department
150

2.2 Stages of Model Development
Identification of
Selection of various Developments of
various options at the
tools to be used the model
check points to capture
model
defects
2.3 Development of Model
Inline Defect Cause & Effect

Inspection capturing at the Analysis of Effective
Analysis of
through Defect End Line
defects
highest Solutions
Frequency through check occurring Provided
Rating System sheets Defects
2.4 Formats introduced in various departments.
1. Cutting audit format 2. Cutting pattern check 4. Sewing end-line inspection format 5. Sewing cause
format. 3. Sewing in-line inspection format & effect analysis format. 6. Finishing initial
inspection format
151

3.0 Experimental Sewing Data
Exposed Raw stitch

Uneven Top Stitch
Label Attachment
Measurement out
Uneven fly shape
Thread Tension
Total Defective
Total Checked
Broken stitch
Uneven Raw
Percentage
Puckering
Slip stitch
Defective
Margin
Roping
Others
DATE
Pieces
Pieces
1-Mar 4 56 56 56 100
3-Mar 6 10 4 8 42 22 52
4-Mar 13 9 11 77 22 29
5-Mar 2 2 4 42 5 12
6-Mar 2 9 8 78 12 15
7-Mar 1 6 9 6 67 16 24
8-Mar 10 7 8 75 17 23
10-Mar 1 1 5 4 3 70 10 14
11-Mar 4 3 1 3 2 3 15 139 23 17
12-Mar 9 4 2 3 5 97 17 18
13-Mar 2 3 4 5 55 11 20
14-Mar 5 2 1 3 3 4 116 12 10
15-Mar 2 1 2 5 1 2 3 7 203 18 9
17-Mar 5 1 3 3 9 151 14 9
18-Mar 11 1 11 139 17 12
19-Mar 20 2 3 12 207 29 14
20-Mar 4 2 12 135 14 10
21-Mar 4 2 1 3 87 8 9
24-Mar 2 3 3 2 70 8 11
25-Mar 3 2 2 2 1 94 8 9
TOTAL 1 35 2 72 14 27 30 5 2 55 70 134 2000 339 17
Table.1 Defect categories wise and percentage defectives in the sewing department
152

4.0 Cause & Effect diagram for major occurring defects and their implemented solutions
4.1 Measurement out of tolerance
Improper sweep shape Notches not proper

after panel attachment
Solutions Provided
Cause Solution
Notches improper at pleats Cutting Department was informed about the cause and the reason
identified was misalignment of plies during cutting. This being a
major defect causing activity was asked to be checked 100% in the
audit before sending the bundles to sewing. A template was provided
against which the pieces were checked and in case of any deviation,
white pencil was used to mark pleat positions.
Improper sweep shape after Bottom trimming was done to make the sweep uniform.
panel attachment
153

4.2 Puckering at waistband
Improper pre-setting of
waistband
Causes Solution
Improper pre- setting of waistband after thumb Pressing was done by steam iron with a spray of starch over it.
pressing This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching and
thus reduced puckering at the waistband.
154

4.3 Roping
4.4 Waistband extension uneven
Causes Solution
Improper folder setting on machine The folder guide was adjusted and improper materials
handling avoided
155

Causes Solution
Margin not followed while attaching waistband and The operator was instructed to be careful while feeding
waistband edge not finished properly and following the margins strictly
4.5 Improper fly shape
Causes Solution
Top stitch is being inhibited by zipper lock underneath A template was provided to the operator and the stitch
was shifted a little below, altering the fly shape within
tolerance level
156

4.6 Fusing shining marks
Causes Solution
Poor quality fusing used Fusing was changed and skilled operator required
5.0 Trend chart showing reduction in defect levels after implemented solutions
D.H.U. levels in Measurement Out

60
40
20
0
1-Mar 2-Mar 3-Mar 4-Mar
Fig. 5 Defects level Reduction in Measurements Out
157

D.H.U. levels in Puckering

25
20
15
10
5
0
Fig. 6 Defects levels Reduction in Puckering

D.H.U. levels in Roping
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
7-Mar
6-Mar
8-Mar
9-Mar
15-Mar
10-Mar
11-Mar
12-Mar
13-Mar
14-Mar
16-Mar
17-Mar
18-Mar
Fig. 7 Defects levels Reduction in Roping 19-Mar
D.H.U. levels in Uneven fly shape

40
30
20
10
0
3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar
158

Fig. 8 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven Fly Shape
Defects levels in Label Attachment

16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Fig. 9 Defects levels Reduction in Label Attachment
Defects levels in Uneven Top Stitch

25
20
15
10
5
0
3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar 7-Mar 8-Mar 9-Mar 10-Mar 11-Mar 12-Mar
Uneven top stitch
Fig. 10 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven top Stitch
159

6.0 Defects analysis in finishing department
250 239
206
200
150 132
106
100
50
4 3 3
0
SOIL/ DUST/ RUST OIL SPOT

STICKER MARKS INK/CHALK MARK
SWEAT MARKS TOBACCO MARK
VEGETABLE MARKS
Fig. 11 Defects analysis in finishing department
6.1 Recommended Suggestions Implemented to Reduce Defects in finishing section
1.Oil spots: Application of a scrap paper under the Soil and dust: 1.Usage of plastic bags for storing and
presser feet of sewing machines after the days work transportation of pieces. 2. Cleaning of checking
so that the machines which are leaking oil can be tables and machines before the start of days work 3.
tracked. Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using trolleys
2. Proper oiling level to be maintained in order to for storage. 4. Creating a polyethene sheet partition
prevent leakage of extra oil between sewing and finishing departments so that
3.Operator to take responsibility of cleaning the fabric dust doesnt come over to the finishing unit
machine after lubrication and settle down on the washed fabric.
4. Immediate reporting of oil leakage Suggestions implemented to reduce no. of uncut &
Ink/ chalk marks: Usage of good quality markers, the loose thread: 1.Thread cutting operation to be carried
marks of which are easily washable 2.Avoid using out after washing in order to counteract unraveling of
pencils for marking. 3. Usage of chalks on white and threads after washing 2. Use of thread sucking
light colored fabrics. machine to prevent any loose threads to reach the
checkpoint
160

7.0 Department wise results and discussion (Sewing, Finishing and Cutting department)
7.1 Cutting Department
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
01/02/08
08/02/08
15/02/08
22/02/08
29/02/08
07/03/08
14/03/08
21/03/08
28/03/08
04/04/08
11/04/08
Fig. 12 Overall reductions in defect levels for cutting department
7.2 Sewing Department
Overall Percent defective trend

120
100
80
60
40
20
0
1-Mar
2-Mar
3-Mar
4-Mar
5-Mar
6-Mar
7-Mar
8-Mar
9-Mar
10-Mar
11-Mar
12-Mar
13-Mar
14-Mar
15-Mar
16-Mar
17-Mar
18-Mar
19-Mar
20-Mar
21-Mar
22-Mar
23-Mar
24-Mar
25-Mar
Percentage defective
Fig. 13 Overall reductions in defect levels for sewing department
161

7.4 Finishing Department
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Fabric Fault
Shade Variation
Others
Hard Stains
Touching
Cut & Hole
Uncut/ Loose thread
Insecure stitch
Mending
Stitching
Wrong/Missing Label
Embroidery/Beads/Printing
February March April 1- 15
Fig. 14 Overall reductions in defect levels for finishing department
Cutting lot failure rate reduced to zero percent checking reports. Run quality awareness program for
generally. Sewing percent defective reduced to your employees. Quality standard must be understood
approximately 40%. In finishing, stitching D.H.U. by each employee and everybody have to work to
came down to approximately 8% from 16% as meet quality goal. No low standard work should be
earlier, uncut thread D.H.U. came down to accepted by the following department. In sewing line
approximately 10% from 22% as earlier. Rework dont allow operators to keep bundles open and each
increased the cost of the different work categories bundle must be completed before forwarding to the
between 2% to 30%. However, some best practices to next. It will help you track missing pieces. It is usual
control defect generation within the factory were experience that operators throw pieces under tables
suggested as- Make the workplace clean from when they make mistake or receive defective
fabric store to cutting to sewing to washing and (incomplete) garments from previous operator.
finishing. Place quality control system in proper Nobody keeps track of these missing pieces until you
place. Implies that sufficient no. of checkers, trained found shortage of garments in finishing. Set standard
checkers, checkers making report while checking, operating procedures (SOP) for each task performed
analysis of reports and take action based on the by your employees. SOP for quality control system
quality check reports. Conduct training program for for each department. Set audit team to audit your
the checkers on how to check piece correctly to quality system in a regular interval. These
capture defective pieces. Train them to make garment
162

recommendations were suggested to the individual department.
8. Conclusion
The suggestive tools developed in this article cover a results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and
comprehensive series of aspects in minimizing foreign exchange for the country. The perceived
reworks in the sewing section of apparel industries by quality of a garment is the result of a number of
ensuring quality production. The importance of the aspects, which together help achieve the desired level
textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very of satisfaction for the customer. However, we should
high. The explosive growth of the RMG industry in bear in mind that 1% defective product for an
the country, however, has not been enough supported organization is 100% defective for the customer who
by the growth of backward linkage facilities. So buys that defective product. The study clearly
manufacturing the quality product is mandatory to indicates that by eliminating non-productive activities
sustain in this global competitive market. Quality is like reworks in the apparel industries time as well as
ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good cost are saved by ensuring quality production which
Quality increases the value of a product or service, have an important impact on overall factory
establishes brand name, and builds up good economy.
reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn
References
[1] Dr P Khanna: Work study, time and motion study, [12] Florida, R. Lean and Green The Move to
Dhanpat Rai and Sons, New Delhi, (pp 21-31). Environmentally Conscious Manufacturing.
[2] F.M. Gryna, J.A. DeFeo, Quality Planning & California Management Review 39, (1996) 80-105
Analysis for Enterprise Quality, Tata McGraw- [13]Environmental Technology Best Practice
Hill, Edition, 2008 Programmed. (1996). saving money through waste
[3] (Opex Group) (n.d.). Retrieved december 2012, minimization raw material use, GG25, Crown
from viyellatex group: http//www.opexgroup.com Copyright.
[4] (viyellatex group)(n.d.). Retrieved december [14]M.Mahajan, Statistical Quality Control,
2012, from viyellatex group: Dhanpat Rai & Co. (P) LTD. pp.186-206,
http//www.viyellatexgroup.com
[5] http//www.asiantextilejournal.com
[6] (Sepal Group)(n.d.). Retrieved december 2012. Authors Biographies:
From sepal group http//www.sepalgroup.com
[7] (n.d.). Retrieved nov 2012, from fiber 2 fashion: Md. Mazedul Islam
http//www.fiber2fashion.com The author is associated as Lecturer in
[8]Saroj Bala, Factors Influencing Costing of the Department of Textile Engineering
Woven Fabrics, The Indian Textile Journal, 2003 at Daffodil International University,
[9]Dean J W and Bowen D E., 1994, Management Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research
Theory and Total Quality: Improving Research interest fields are- Apparel production
and Practice and Theory Development, the Academy and Merchandising, Production
of Management Review 19, (3) PP 392-418. Management. Industrial Engineering,
Apparel and fabric finishing, Textile
[10]O.H. Khan, A Study of Six Sigma
and Apparel Quality control, Apparel
Implementation and Critical Success Factor, Brand management, Apparel Washing
Pakistans Ninth International Convention on Quality etc.
Improvement, Karachi, Pakistan, pp. 1-12, Nov. 2005
[11]Hawken, Paul, Amory Lovins, and L. Hunter Adnan Maroof Khan
Lovins. Natural Capitalism: Creating the Next The author is associated as Lecturer in
Industrial Revolution (New York Little, Brown and the Department of Textile Engineering
Company, 1999) at Daffodil International University,
163

Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research

interest fields are- Garments
Technology, Production Management,
Garments Quality Control &
Management, Textile Coloration &
Fabric Structure and design, etc.
Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan

Assistant Professor & Head,
Department of Apparel Manufacturing
Engineering, Bangladesh University
of textiles.
164

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January 2013. Vol. 1, No.

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

MINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND PRODUCTIVITY

Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh 1

Keywords Costs, Operation, Productivity, Profitability, product Quality, Reworks.

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

2. Problem Definition and Methodology 6. Implementation of check sheets to capture

Fig. 1 Review of Existing Quality System

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

2.1. Identification of Defects

2.1.1 Cutting Department:

Fig. 2 Lots percentages overview of cutting departments

2.1.2 Sewing Department

OPEN SEAMS JOINT OUT

Fig. 3 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

2.1.3 Categorizations of Defects

2.1.4 Sewing Department Defects categories wise

Defect categories wise D.H.U. (Defects per Hundread Unit)

25.00 Defects encountered-11778

Seaming defects- 6224

10.00 Sewing defects- 4204

Fig. 4 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

2.2 Stages of Model Development

2.3 Development of Model

Inline Defect Cause & Effect

2.4 Formats introduced in various departments.

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

3.0 Experimental Sewing Data

Exposed Raw stitch

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

4.1 Measurement out of tolerance

Improper sweep shape Notches not proper

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

4.2 Puckering at waistband

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

4.4 Waistband extension uneven

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

4.5 Improper fly shape

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

4.6 Fusing shining marks

D.H.U. levels in Measurement Out

Fig. 5 Defects level Reduction in Measurements Out

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

D.H.U. levels in Puckering

Fig. 6 Defects levels Reduction in Puckering

Fig. 7 Defects levels Reduction in Roping 19-Mar

D.H.U. levels in Uneven fly shape

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

Fig. 8 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven Fly Shape

Defects levels in Label Attachment

Fig. 9 Defects levels Reduction in Label Attachment

Defects levels in Uneven Top Stitch

Uneven top stitch

Fig. 10 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven top Stitch

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

6.0 Defects analysis in finishing department

SOIL/ DUST/ RUST OIL SPOT

Fig. 11 Defects analysis in finishing department

6.1 Recommended Suggestions Implemented to Reduce Defects in finishing section

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences

7.1 Cutting Department