issue 2/2016 DISCOVER SWITZERL AND33
LA DOLCE VITA
Sometimes in life you just want it all. Blue water. Awe-inspiring hiking
trails. A nice bottle of wine. Luckily, Switzerlands answer to the perfect
holiday is nestled in the south Ticino. Ashley Roque took a break to
uncover its hidden charms.
Morning jogs along the villa cladded shores of
Locarnos Lago Maggiore marked my introduction
to Ticino several years ago. Palm trees in Switzerland?
Yes, please. Rural grottos serving creamy polenta
and grilled meats? Point the way.
Since my first visit, each time Ive been seduced a
bit more by hidden (and not so hidden) gems
throughout the region. And while any season is a
great excuse to explore Ticino, long summer days
are ideal for soaking up the Swiss-Italian culture by
renting a house in a quaint village or for a weekend
city retreat.
If youre looking for ideas to explore the area, here
are some of the top tips Ive gleaned over the years.
Theyll have you wishing summer would never end.
Photo: Christof Sonderegger/Ticino Turism
SLOWING DOWN IN CENTOVALLI
From wooded hiking trails dotted with blue pools
of mountain water to candlelit dinners off the tourist
trail, if youre looking for rustic charm, Centovalli
has it. Centovalli, or hundred valleys, was named for
the hundred streams rushing down the mountains
to create deep gorges. So get ready for some windy
roads with steep cliffs that pave the way between
stone villages and hiking trails.
Church Madonna del Sasso
For a four-day weekend escape, my husband and I
packed our two sheepdogs into the car and made
our way to a rental house in the sleepy town of
Verdasio. Its a town forgotten in time with grey
stone houses, winding staircases and only 20
permanent residents. Its quiet, sans the clock tower,
which means this is not a getaway for you if you
need shopping at your doorstep or a five-star hotel.
However, the town is home to Al Pentolino a 14
Gault Millau point restaurant. When the weather
is nice, book a stone table on the terrace. The view
of the valley below, combined with a modern twist
on traditional fare, is a great way to kick-start a long
weekend getaway.
In addition to the tasty, local restaurant, Verdasio
is the perfect launch point for mountain bikers and
hikers. For us, it was straight to the hiking trails. In
Verdasio you can simply hop on the 11.7 km Centovalli
Camendo-Verdasio-Intragna trail that is given a
medium difficulty level. If youre not up for a long
hike, the towns location is perfect to jump on the
trail for a light walk as we did with two tired dogs.
For a longer day on the trails, we headed down the
road to the Monte Comino area. We caught a small
cable car up the mountain and hiked for hours
34 DISCOVER SWITZERL AND
Caf Al Borgo
enjoying the great views of the Centovalli on
relatively flat paths under a canopy of trees. While
there, you can visit the small Madonna della Segna
church or stop for a bite to eat at the grotto Alla
Capanna.
By day three, wed worked up an appetite from all
the hiking and it was time to hop in the car and
explore the regions grottos. Heading out on Via
Cantonale (or Canton Street) alongside the blue-
green hues of the Melezza River, we veered onto
side roads to explore the villages and hidden
grottos dishing up hearty fare including creamy
risottos and homemade pastas.
With full bellies, it was time to put on our bathing
suits and head down to the Melezza Rivers rocky
bank for some afternoon sun and a dip in the
glacier water. There are numerous spots along
the road to pull over and enjoy, including in Golino
or Tegna. Its the perfect way to enjoy your final
hours in the area.
Dont have a car but still want to enjoy the regions
scenery? You can hop on the Centovalli Railway
departing from Locarno to Domodossola (nearly
2 hours each way) to catch views of tumbling
waterfalls and mountains.
A TASTE OF LOCARNO
If youre not into hiking and need a bit more
excitement than Centovalli, or are simply looking
for some day trip ideas, Locarnos shores could be
a perfect fit.
Perched on Lago Maggiore (Great Lake), its a
better bet for those looking for a leisurely bike
ride (there are even electric bike rentals available
at the tourist office) or afternoon shopping. And
of course there are cafs.
One of my favorites, Al Borgo (also called Casa Borgo)
is off the main plaza so people watching is limited.
However, this historic house dates back to the 1500s
and boasts an enchanting courtyard perfect for
enjoying a cappuccino or Aperol Spritz. Take heed,
the inside sitting rooms may lure you to cuddle up
with a book and forget the city outside. On my first
visit to the caf, I was a bit too enchanted and
returned several months later to stay in the B&B
portion of the house, a decision I highly recommend
if you do not mind sharing a bathroom.
As for restaurants in Locarno, its worth taking a
stroll along the lake to find a spot with a view. Away
from the lake and the main plaza, though, there are
two great choices. The first is the tiny Osteria
Borghese offering a retreat from the tourist traps
and serving mouth-watering fresh pastas and for
carnivores, tender steaks. As a side note, it is best
Photos: (top right) Al Borgo; (bottom left) Edmondo Viselli/Ticino Tourism
to make reservations in advance and be warned; the
owner will not take a table of one (as I sadly learned
when I tried to return on a solo trip).
For seafood and a livelier environment (yes they
accept solo travelers), book a table at Cittadella.
The spaghetti alle vongole was al dente and delicious,
while the classic tiramisu was worth returning for.
Each summer Locarno hosts Moon and Stars (7-17
July 2016), a 20-day music event in the Piazza
Grande. If youre interested, book your rooms and
tickets early.
IS THAT DIZZY GILLESPIE?
Next door to Locarno, Asconas narrow alleys are
filled with boutiques and cafs that weave down to
Lago Maggiore
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the lakeshore. Here, you will find Piazza G. Mottas

stretch of brightly colored restaurant fronts. Its an Ponte Romano Agosto
ideal spot to enjoy an evening or weekend. And if you
enjoy jazz, each summer (this year from 25 June
through 4 July) the city hosts a 10-day jazz festival
along the waterfront. During the event, various stages
dot the piazzas lakefront with bands playing New
Orleans jazz, swing and blues.

If youre interested in enjoying the music, tickets are

free Monday through Thursday, and CHF 20 for adults
Friday, Saturday and Sunday. As a sidenote, you will
need tickets to enter the Piazza G. Motta during these
two weekend evenings.

To make the most of the night, or any night really, just

Photos: (top left) Paola Valchera/Ticino Tourism; (top right) Glauco Cugini/Ticino Tourism;

head to the piazza early and grab a coveted outdoor

table at Osteria Nostrana for a crisp pizza and delicious
beef carpaccio. Vegetarians fear not. There are many
options for you including the rich gnocchi with
mascarpone, tomatoes, basil and grana padano cheese.

So now that your appetite is whet, its time to explore

Ticinos hidden gems and uncover some of your own.
Buon viaggio!

FIND OUT MORE

(bottom) Remo Arni

Centovalli and Verdasio

To book a table at Al Pentolino or to find a chalet visit
www.verdasio.ch
For information on hiking in Centovalli visit
www.procentovalli.ch
To explore the Monte Comino area visit
National Park www.montecomino.ch
Locarno
Locarno
Casa Borgo www.casaborgo.ch
Osteria Borghese is located at Via Borghese 20, 6600
Locarno
Cittadella www2.cittadella.ch
Moon and Stars www.moonandstars.ch
For general information on the area visit
www.ascona-locarno.com
www.ticino.ch

Ashley Roque and her two dogs on
the Monte Camino trails
Ascona
From Locarno, Ascona can be reached in 11 minutes on
bus number 1 in the direction of Ascona, Posta
JazzAscona www.jazzascona.ch
Osteria Nostrana www.ristoranti-ff.ch/nostranaen.htm