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Wave Spectra and Statistics PDF
Wave Spectra and Statistics PDF
S ( ) = 4 R( ) cos 2d (1)
0
2
p( ) = 2 exp 2 (3)
= 2 p( )d
2
(4)
(
p( ) = 1 exp ) (5)
mn = n S ( )d (6)
0
For instance, you can show that the standard deviation of the
water surface = m0 .
H m = 4 m0
0
(7)
2 (1 )
P (H H ) = exp (9)
4 1 + 2
where = H h .
H s , Ts = f ( X ,U , t , h, g ) (10)
gH s gTs gX gt gh
, = f , , (11)
U2 U U2 U U2
Common models
SMB Sverdrup, Munk and Bretschneider
This model was developed during and after WWII from data in
the North Atlantic. SMB uses the dimensional analysis above to
derive empirical relationships between the dependent and
independent variables.
gH s gX
0.42
2
= 0.283 tanh 0.0125 2 (12)
U U
gTs gX
0.25
= 1.2 tanh 0.077 2 (13)
2U U
2
0.5
gt gX gX gX
= K exp A ln 2 B ln 2 + C + D ln 2
U U U U
(14)
The model is
fp
4
S ( ) = E ( f ) exp 1.25 (15)
f
where
( f f p )2 g 2
= exp 2
; E( f ) =
2 f p
2
(2 )4 f 5
0.22
= 0.076 2
gX
(16)
U
0.33
Uf p gX
= 3.5 2 (17)
g U
Donelan
0.55
U cos
= 0.076 for 0.83 < U C p < 5 (18)
Cp
0.23
U cos gX
= 11.6 2 (20)
Cp U
g 2k ( H )
Ek ( f , H ) = (21)
(2 )4 f 5
where the factor k is defined by
3 k ( , H )
( k ( , h ))
f
k ( H ) = (22)
3 k ( , )
(k ( , ))
f