Beaded Rings and Beaded Headbands

Quick and Simple Beaded Projects

It's actually a ton of fun making these simple rings. Kids will love them and I bet you will
too. They're great for using up dabs of leftover beads. Here's how you make 'em:

First pick out a big bead for the center. "Big" is a relative term, anywhere from 4 to
10mm will work, but you'll want to scale your ring beads to fit the size of your center
bead. For a very large center bead use size 6 ring beads, for a small one, use size 10 or
11 seed beads. Use doubled thread for this project. Pick up enough ring beads to reach
from the hole halfway around the center bead, and the center bead. Then pick up the
same number of ring beads minus one. Go back through the first ring bead you picked up
in the first set of ring beads. Tie the short end and the long end of your thread together
in a square knot.

Now pick up enough beads to fit around your finger and around half the center bead. Go
through the center bead.

Pick up the same number of beads as you picked up in the second set of ring beads in
the first step. Count down the number of beads you just picked up from the center bead
back on the other side and re-enter the next bead back.
Continue through the entire ring loop and up around one side of the center bead. Pick up
one ring bead and go into the bead just across from the bead you left to bridge the gap.
If that doesn't quite fill it, use two beads instead. Continue through the whole ring again
and come up the other side of the center bead and bridge the gap on the other side.
Continue through the ring again if possible to strengthen it. If you are using larger beads,
go through the ring as many times as possible. On your final pass, tie off around the ring
threads then complete the pass. Weave in the short end and you're done. You'll be
amazed at how well the ring will hold it's shape!

This ring is a little more complicated but it's still relatively simple to make. You will need
to know how to do brick stitch.

Again you'll need to choose a large center bead and some seed beads. I used a 8mm
round bead for the center and size 11 seeds for the ring. If you use different sizes you
will have to adjust the pattern accordingly.

This time we'll start with the part that goes around the back of your finger. Pick up two
seed beads and tie them in a circle. Go up through the bead on the right. Pick up two
more beads and go down through the bead on the left then back up through the bead on
the right and the new bead above it. Pick up two more beads and go down through the
upper-most bead on the left then up through the bead to the right and the new bead
above it. Continue stacking pairs of beads this way until you have a strip that will reach
around 3/4s of your finger.

Now treat the final two beads you added as the base row for brick stitch and add 3 rows
of normally increasing brick stitch. The 3rd row should have 5 beads in it. Now work 4
rows of 2 beads each up from the left side of the 5 bead row as if you were increasing at
the end of a row (you are!:-)). Then thread back down to the 5 bead row and weave to
the other side of it and work 4 2 bead rows up the left side increasing at the beginning of
each row. Then thread through the whole thing to get to the other end of the band and
do the same thing on the other side.

Connect the large bead to each side of the ring in the manner shown below.

Now connect the two sides using the thread path shown below. If you have room left, go
ahead and thread through the band to reinforce.

Now for a couple of headband ideas. Believe it or not, the idea for these came from a
discount store! The first one was made from tacky plastic beads and elastic thread, but
we'll make it with nicer beads and one of the elastic jewelry cords available, such as Fire
Mountain's Stretch Floss brand.
This sample uses size 6 Japanese beads but you could even use semi precious stone
beads if the holes were large enough. You need beads with larger holes because the
elastic beading cord is quite a bit thicker than regular beading thread. The holes in size 6
beads are perfect. To make this headband use these flat netting instructions to make a
strip 3 sets wide and long enough to fit around your head from top to bottom.

Connect the two ends of the strip to make a continuous ring. Do this by adding the beads
needed to complete the net sections between the two edges. The following diagram
shows how this is done. The black beads represent the beads added to connect the two
ends.

This headband is *really* simple. Make two daisy chains (with regular beading thread)
using these directions for Daisy Chains, Open and Closed. Make them long enough to
reach from just behind one ear, over the top of your head to just behind the other ear.
Then sew the ends to a length of heavy elastic long enough to reach the rest of the way
around your head. It should be just snug enough to hold your hair back. Try to find
elastic that matches the main color in your daisy chain or, failing that, one that matches
the hair color of the person who will be wearing the headband.

I hope you have fun with these. They would make great stocking stuffers, don't you
think?
Wisteria Earrings
A bit of Springtime, made with seed beads

We had a huge wall of wisteria along one side of my house when I was a kid and I have
always remembered it fondly. Having no room for such a wonder in my current living
situation, these will just have to do for now. :-) These earrings look absolutely luscious
on and they are very easy to make. It shouldn't take you more than 4 hours to make
your first pair and should go even faster with practice.

What You'll Need

Size A Nymo beading thread or equivalent (white or light green)

Size 13 beading needle
2 earring wires
About 310 light green transparent size 11 seed beads (less than 1/10th of a hank)
About 366 pink-lined blue (or any other purple bead) sized 11 seed beads (less
than 1/10th of a hank)

Note: When I refer to the "back" of a bead, I mean the side opposite where your thread
is coming out.

The earring is made up of a stem with 5 sets of branches radiating from it. Each set
contains 4 branches. Each set is separated from the next by 5 green stem beads.

Begin by tying a single green seed bead to the end of your thread. Leave a nice long tail
to weave back in later. I will refer to this first bead and the other beads that serve the
same function as the "center bead." Go through the bead once, and pick up 10 more
green beads and three purple beads. Go through the back of the last green bead, then
through the front of the next two.
Pick up 3 more purple beads and go through the back of the green bead your thread is
coming out of and through the next two green beads.

Repeat the previous step 3 more times, for a total of 5 purple loops counting the one on
the end. Basically what you are doing is adding a little purple loop to every other green
bead starting from the last and working back toward the center bead. After you add the
fifth purple loop, go through the first green bead of the ten you originally added. Now re-
enter the center bead from the back. You have now completed your first "branch." Make
3 more branches in the same manner as the first so that you end up with 4 branches
radiating out from the center bead. Your thread should be coming out of the center bead.

Pick up 14 green beads and 3 purple ones. The first 5 are part of the stem, the 6th green
bead will act as the center bead for the next set of branches, the next 8 make up the first
branch of the second set. The second set of branches are made the same way as the
first, ie go through the back of the last green bead, through the front of the next two,
add a purple loop, etc. The only difference is that each branch in this set is 8 green beads
long instead of 10 and has only 4 purple loops. Finish off the set by adding 3 more 8-
bead branches.

Now we need to add the 3rd set of branches. The branches of each set are two beads
shorter than the branches of the previous set, so pick up 5 stem beads, 1 center bead,
and 6 branch beads (12 green) plus 3 purple flower beads. This set of branches has 3
purple flower loops per branch.

The 4th set of branches contain 4 branch beads and 2 purple loops per branch and the
5th set contains 2 branch beads per branch and only one loop. Each set is always
separated from the last by 5 stem beads. So, whenever you finish a set, pick up 5 stem
beads, 1 center bead and however many branch beads are called for in the next set. Add
3 purple beads and you are set to start the first branch of the next set.

Once you finish the 5th set, finish the earring by picking up 5 more stem beads and three
purple beads. Go through the back of the fifth stem bead and up through the entire stem
to the top. Pick up 2 green beads, your earring wire, and two more green beads go back
down through the entire stem, around the purple loop at the bottom and up again
through the stem and the loop containing the earring wire. Repeat this circuit through
the stem and earring wire loop as many times as you can while still leaving enough room
to weave in the tail you left when you started.

Realistic Fuchsia Earrings

Dateline: 08/25/97
A couple of months ago I wrote a feature on what I called my "Fuschia Earrings", they are
cool earrings, but they don't look a whole lot like actual fuchsias. I even spelled fuchsia
wrong! (The reason fuchsia is spelled strangely is that they were named after a guy named
Fuchs.) You'd think I'd never seen one before. Anyway, I recently went to the bead store and
bought some gorgeous fuchsia and purple delicas and they inspired me to try to design a more
accurate fuchsia. I'm sure you'll agree that they look a lot more like the real flower! I got the
idea to use loops for the underneath petals from Lee Baldwin's beaded pot. Take a look at
what the earrings look like in red & white, plus a larger image of the purple ones. If you have
any ideas about what I should call the old ones, let me know.

Fuchsia Fact: Did you know that fuchsias are sometimes referred to as Our Lady's Ear
Drops?

What You'll Need:

1 package metallic fuchsia Delicas

1 package silver-lined purple Delicas

A small amount of transparent dark blue-green seed beads (you can use green
Delicas if you want)

2 black iris tear drops

2 french hooks

1 spool purple Nymo size 0 (use black if you can't find purple)

Size 12 beading needle

I suggest you double your thread for this project. To begin, string on 8 purple beads and tie
them in a circle. Go through the first of them and pick up 20 fuchsia beads. Go through the
opposite side of the first fuchsia bead and through the back of the purple bead that your thread
is coming out of. Continue through the next purple bead and repeat the previous steps. Do this
for each bead in the ring, in the end you should have 8 long fuchsia loops hanging from your
original purple circle. Think of these loops as fringe, don't pull them so tight that they stick
out. From here on out all of the beads we use will be purple except at the very end where we
will use a few green ones.

Now with your thread coming out of one of the beads in the original circle, pick up one purple
bead and go through the back of the bead directly opposite on the other side of the circle. Go
back through the bead you added and through the back of the bead you originally left. Go
through the center bead once more and pick up 16 beads and one tear drop. Skip the tear drop
and go back up through all 16 beads and the bead your thread is coming out of. This forms the
pistil of the flower. Now we will start our first petal. Re-enter the circle. Go through the next
bead in the circle and pick up 11 beads. Skip the last one and go up through the second to the
last.

Pick up 9 beads and go through the back of the next bead in the original circle, and down
through the top bead of the 9 you just added.
Pick up 3 beads and go down through the fifth bead from the top in the group of 11 you added
two steps earlier. Continue down through the next three beads in the line.

Pick up three beads and go down through the fourth (counting the top one which is shared by
both sides) bead on the right hand side of the petal. Continue down through the next three
beads.
Pick up 1 bead and go through the middle bead of the three you just added. Pick up 1 more
and go down through the fourth bead from the top on the left hand side of the petal. This
should form an X shape in the middle of the petal. Continue threading through the rest of the
beads on the left side of the petal and up through the right side of the petal. Come out through
the fifth bead from the top. Pick up four beads and go through the next bead in the original
circle. Go down through the top bead of the four you just added. Now you are ready to begin
your next petal. (Correction begins here. I originally said to use 3 beads instead of four
rather than 10 beads instead of 11, sorry!) It is constructed in the same way except that you
start with ten beads instead of eleven because the first one is already there. Similarly, when
finishing the fourth petal, use only three beads and go up through the first bead of the group
of four you added when you began your first petal.

Once you have finished all four petals, weave your way back to the original circle once again.
We will use tubular peyote stitch to form the "stem" part of the flower. (It's not really the stem
but the fused portion of the petals.) Pick up a bead, skip over a bead in the circle and go
through the next one. Do this three more times until you have added a bead over every other
bead in the original circle. Then go up through the first of the beads you added. Now fill in the
spaces by adding a bead in between each of the beads you added in the previous step. There
should be one bead on top of each of the beads in the original circle. Continue adding rows of
beads in this fashion until every other column is five beads high and the rest are four beads
high.

Now switch to green beads and go around the circle adding beads 3 times. When you finish
the third row of green go through the four beads added in that row once more without adding
beads and pull the thread tight. This closes up the hole at the top of the stem. Now pick up 4
green beads and your earring hook. Go through the bead opposite of the bead your thread is
coming out of and back through the four beads you added and the hook. Go in the back of the
bead you originally left. Make this circuit a couple more times to strengthen it and then weave
your thread back into the flower to secure it. Ta da! You've got yourself a fuchsia!

Understated Gold

Elegant and Understated Square Stitch Earrings

Well, someone forgot to tell me that gold was going to be in this

year! And after I spent all that time collecting silver! Oh well!!

Actually, I'll still wear my silver, and all my beads, too! But, of
course, every now and then I need a pair of gold earrings. And,
every now and then, I need something subtle. That's how these
little beauties came about.

I saw the original in a fashion magazine. They were a solid plate of

gold, and the little fringes were made of chain. I thought they were
nice, but figured I could do the same using beads. Actually, I think these are cuter! And
they are so easy to make, you could do up a bunch of them for gifts or for yourself! I
used the galvanized gold beads, so that they may wear longer, but I sprayed them with
protectant, just in case. Here's how to make your own:

You need:

Approximately 144 gold colored 11/0 seed beads

Gold Size "D" Nymo

#12 Beading Needle

E6000 Glue
Set of 2 Flat Post Backs - 5 mm

1. Begin by making four rows of square stitch, each row five beads long.
See actual size pictureon the left.

2. Turn the work on it's side (45 degree angle) and run the needle down the
last row you added.

3. Pick up 16 seed beads, and pass the need around the last seed bead
added.

4. Pass the needle back up the other 15 seed beads, and back up through the last row of
square stitch, so that the needle is coming out of the top of the piece.

5. Pass the needle down the next row and add 14 seed beads, and repeat the step
above. Repeat again for the next two rows, adding 12 beads and then 10 beads. This will
make fringes 15, 13, 11 and 9 beads long, with an end bead on each.

6. When you are through adding the fringes, tie off the thread and secure with a spot of
clear nail polish.

7. Add the earring post with a dab of E6000 cement, and let dry overnight.

Now you have a cute and subtle pair of gold earrings!. Another reason I designed these
is that I had a number of requests in my email for some small earrings. I thought this
was a great idea, as so many earring patterns are for really big earrings. Sometimes, it's
nice to have something a bit different. Hope you enjoy these!

Fab Fish Brick Stitch Earrings

This Content Created by Emily Hackbarth

This is one of my favorite simple brick stitch bead patterns. While working with size 15
hex beads I was struck by how much the fabric formed by using brick stitch with these
beads resembled the scales of a fish. This got me thinking about what kind of fish I could
make to take advantage of the resemblance that would also make nice earrings. I
thought about those fancy goldfish with the gorgeous flowing tails and thought, "Fringe!"
So this is the pattern I came up with. I hope you like it!

Note:

You must know how to do brick stitch to use this pattern, if you don't, here are some
instructions for this fun stitch.

You will need:

Opaque blue, opaque red, opaque orange, transparent green-lined and

black size 15 hex beads.
 Size 12 or 13 beading needle
Size 0 or 00 Nymo beading thread. Try to get blue if you can find it.
Bees wax or Thread Heaven
2 French earring wires

You may either print out this brick stitch pattern or use the detailed row chart provided.
Or both!

Tips:

Feel free to experiment with different color combinations. Peach, pink, pale yellow, and
aqua would be nice. I tried to keep the design reasonably small since I know most
women are uncomfortable with really large earrings, but if you like them (I do!) go ahead
and expand the design to include fringed fins as well. Just keep increasing until the
center is about 8 beads wider then decrease 4 beads on each side to finish the bottom
half.

Note:

The black square on the diagram marks where the fringe begins.

Decidedly Different Seed Bead Earrings

Seed Beads and Two Needle Weaving

I don't know about you, but I sometimes use beads like I use chocolate. Not in place of,
mind you, but in conjunction with! If I've had a tough day, I'll go home and make myself
a new pair of beaded earrings. Makes me feel better, even better than going shopping,
because I beaded them myself. Beaded jewelry in general makes me happy, how about
you?

Anyway, that's how these pretties were born. Here's what you'll need to make yourself a
pair, other than a case of the "bad day blues":

2 10mm pieces French Coil wire

Nymo D - color of your choice

2 Size 12 beading needles

72 11/0 seed beads, color of your choice

20 2 mm round sterling silver beads

14 3mm bicone crystals - clear

2 5mm bicone crystals - color of your choice

1 pair ear wires, metal color of your choice

Step 1: Start by preparing a 1 yard length of Nymo with Thread Heaven or beeswax,
whichever you prefer. Thread each end of the Nymo through one of the needles, you will
be working with two needles, but it's not hard!

Step 2: Add 1 of the pieces of French Coil onto 1 of the needles, and slide it to the
center of the thread.

Step 3: Tape this piece down to your beading surface, to make adding the beads a bit
easier.

Step 4: Place 3 seed beads onto each needle, and slide them toward the center.
Step 5: Add 1 bead to one of the needles and then pass the other needle through the
beads, so that your threads cross one another. Pull tight, to snug this bead up to the
previous 3 seed beads.

Step 6: Add 1 bead to each needle, pushing them up to the single bead.

Step 7: Add a 1 seed bead and repeat Step 5.

Step 8: Repeat Step 6.

Step 9: Repeat Step 5.

Step 10: Add 2 seed beads to each needle, then add one 2mm sterling silver bead, 1
small clear crystal, 1 2mm sterling silver bead, then two seed beads.

Step 11: Repeat Step five then step six, then step five again, then step six again.

Step 12: To each needle, add two seed beads , then 1 2mm sterling silver bead, 1 clear
3 mm crystal, 1 colored 5mm crystal, 1 clear 3mm crystal, 1 2mm sterling silver, 2 seed
beads, and finally 1-2mm sterling silver bead.

Step 13: Add one 3mm clear crystal to one needle and pass the other needle through it,
as in Step 5.

Step 14: Pass the needles back through all of the beads on the opposite side it started
on, back to the last single bead.

Step 15: Remove the needles, pass the threads behind the main thread and tie off. Turn
the earring over and tie on the other side. Secure knot with a dab of clear nail polish.

Step 16: Repeat all steps to make the other earring.

Step 17: Bend the French Coil wire slightly and place the earring onto an earwire.

Take care when bending the French Coil, it will get bent out of shape easily, and is very
hard to fix once it does. The picture above shows the earring with and without an ear
wire, so that you may see the French coil more clearly. Use the point of a pair of sharp
scissors to cut french Coil so that you don't squash it flat.

Try these earrings with smaller beads, larger beads or with loose ends, just pass the
thread back up the strand and tie off, making 2 fringes. There are many variations to try
with this basic pattern. Do a few, and send me some pictures! Have fun!

Bricks and Strands Beaded Bracelet

Easy to Make with this Free Bead Pattern
I love the look and feel of bead strands on my wrist, but wondered how I could make a cool
closure for such a bracelet. Then, while checking out some basic Brick Stitch earrings, I
realized I had my answer! Best of all, this easy to make bracelet is versatile, as you can wear
the closure in front or in back of the wrist. Looks great either way.
Here's what you'll need to make you own:

Clear AB 11/0 seed beads - approximately 5 grams

Silver lined AB 11/0 seed beads - approximately 5 grams

Clear AB size 7 (7 mm) bugles beads - approximately 26

Nymo size "D" - white

Size 12 beading needle 2 - 10 mm long pieces of silver colored French wire

Magnetic Clasp - silver colored

Clear Nail Polish (optional, to use on knots)

1. Stretch and prepare approximately 3 feet of Nymo size "D" and thread your #12
beading needle.

2. Make two brick stitch ladders, 13 bugle beads wide. Use a seed bead at the top and
bottom of each bugle for reinforcement, and to keep it from cutting your thread. Leave a
long tail, to weave back in and to tie off the ends. 3. Once your ladders are made, re-
thread your needle, and begin adding the strands of beads. Measure along the top part of
the wrist to determine how long to make the strands. These shown are 4 1/4 inches long.
Use the clear and silver lined beads in any pattern you find pleasing. This was made with
3 clear, 1 s/l in that order. The strands may use different numbers of beads, as there is
variation in seed bead sizes.

4. To add the strands, enter the needle at the top of one of the outside bugles, and stitch
through. See photo for clarification of this step.
5. Add the beads to the strand, and exit the end bugle on the other ladder, bringing the
needle back through the next bugle in the row, which will now join the two sections
together.

6. Repeat this process until all of the strands have been added. Bury the thread into the
work, and tie off if necessary, using a dab of clear nail polish to secure the knot.

7. Once the two ladders are joined with the strands, it is time to brick stitch the end
points. Start at either end, and begin brick stitching on top of the bugle ladder. See "How
To Do Brick Stitch" for assistance with this stitch.

8. Brick in ever-decreasing rows, until you have only two beads on the end of the point.
Add your french wire here, and pass the needle through the loop on the back of the
magnetic clasp. Pass the needle down through the second bead on top, and tie off. Do
not attempt to pass the thread through the French Wire twice, this will only cause it to
tangle.

9. Repeat on the other ladder, and there you are!

Enjoy this slinky and comfortable bracelet! You can vary the number of strands by using
a smaller size Nymo, and passing it through the ladders more than once. And of course,
making a matching pair of earrings will be a breeze!

Happy beading!

Criss Cross Bracelet

Free Beaded Bracelet Pattern
When I came up with this Criss Cross Beaded Bracelet pattern, I was actually thinking of the
"Hugs & Kisses" beaded bracelet. I wanted to use these bigger beads, and needed something
that would not roll around or have the beadwork slip behind the beads. This is what I ended
up with and I think it's pretty nifty.

Here's what you'll need to make your own:

Size 11/0 seed beads, any color, I used a silver lined matte pink

Approximately fourteen 8 mm beads, I used a clear matte faceted bead

Nymo "D" thread - I used pink, to bring a bit of pink through the crystals

Two pieces French Wire, aka Gimp, approximately 8 mm long

Lobster Claw clasp and Split Ring, for closures

Two Size 11 beading needles

1. Cut (and prepare, if necessary) a two yard piece of Nymo, Power Pro or your choice
of beading thread. Thread each end through a needle.

2. Place a piece of French Wire onto the thread. Place your lobster claw on the wire, the
go back through it with one needle, forming a loop.

3. Add nine size 11/0 seed beads to each thread. Pass the needle on the right through
nine of the seed beads on the left, then pass the needle on the left through nine of the
seed beads on the right. The thread and both needles should be coming out of the
bottom of the loop. See picture below.

4. The thread will be coming out of the bottom (with the work oriented so that the clasp
is at the bottom) of the loop. Turn the needle tips toward the top of the work and add an
8 mm bead to the needle on the right, leaving about an inch of slack in the thread. Now
pass the needle through the 9th bead at the top of the loop, from the bottom of the seed
bead to the top. Take up the slack left in the thread. Do the same with the left needle.
Notice that the needle goes in next to the 8th bead and exits at the top.
5. For the next set, you will add the nine beads, and pass back through the beads on the
opposite side. This time, be sure to pass through the last bead of the previous set, on the
opposite side as shown below.

6. Repeat step 4 above, then repeat Steps 3, 4 and 5, until your bracelet is the desired
length.

7. Finish by adding the other piece of French Wire to one of the threads and adding a
split ring through it. Then, make your loop and tie the threads off. You may like to add a
drop of Fray Check or glue to the threads, just to hold the knot in place.

This pattern makes a nice, flat bracelet, and there are no loops slipping around. If you
make one in some different colors, please send me a picture!

Cubular Right Angle Weave Bracelet

I have been noticing a lot of right angle weave with beads added into the spaces in the squares
lately and I thought I would try putting beads inside a cube of right angle weave instead. It
works great! I especially like the effect of using matte beads on the outside with AB or silver-
lined (or both!) beads inside.

I called this a bracelet, but it could also be used as an amulet bag strap, a stand alone
necklace, or you could even use short lengths as part of an earring design.

You'll need one color of size 11 seed beads and one color of size 6 "E" beads. First weave 3
rows of right angle weave using two beads per side. If you use my instructions, just double
the number of beads in each step. Make the 3 row strip as long as you want the finished piece
to be.

When you get to the end, weave around so that your thread is coming out from in between the
two beads in the center row at the end. Pick up enough E beads to reach from one end of the
strip of RAW to the other. Then enter the corresponding bead on the same side of the other
end of the strip. Thread through the stitch until your thread is coming out in between the two
center beads again but from the other side. Then go back through the E beads and go into the
bead next to the one you originally left. Don't pull it too tight or it will buckle. Here is what it
should look like at this point:

Now we need to complete the fouth row connecting the first and 3rd rows and by so doing
close up the RAW over the E beads. Weave your thread over to the edge and up through the
first set of two beads on one side. Pick up two beads (they are shown pink here so you can
distinguish them from the existing beads) and go down through the two corresponding beads
on the other side of the strip. Then pick up two more beads and go up through the two beads
you originally left. Continue in this manner until you have a solid 4 sided tube. Remember to
follow the rules of right angle weave. The easiest way is to just remember that your thread
must take a 90 turn for each two beads (2 in this case, it can be more or less) you add or go
through, thus the name "right angle" weave.
I closed the ends of my tube by adding beads in each corner of the end square then peyoteing
two rows using only one bead in the gap made by the two beads on each side of the square.
This forms a natural decrease and fills up the end of the tube so that the E bead won't get
squeezed out for any reason.

For extra strength you may wish to run a piece of Softflex or other wire (kinking won't be
much of a problem here) through the E beads then use that to add your clasp.

Dainty earring lovers can make earrings from a single cube of RAW with an E bead inside.
You may also wish to add a dagger or other drop bead below the cube to finish it off. Here's
what a single cube looks like:

Here is the tube in matte black and metallic green:

"Diamond" Tennis Bracelet

Copyright 2000 Celia Martin

I came up with this pattern by experimenting with the Potawatomi weave. I learned this and
other good basic techniques from a book called "Indian Bead Weaving" by Horace Goodhue.

Materials:

Size 11 silk-finished gold seed beads (SB)

Size 6 silver-lined crystal seed beads (CB)

Size B nymo thread

Wire for clasp (or purchased clasp & jump rings)

To start:

Pick up 6 gold seed beads and tie in a loop, leaving a 6" tail. *Pick up 6 more SB, 1 CB, and
go back through 2 SB on loop, making sure you go through the bead the thread came out of.
Pick up 4 SB and go through the 2 SB next to the CB. Repeat from * until desired length is
achieved, making sure you pull the thread tight after each section. The center bead will pop up
above the surrounding seed beads.

To finish:

Pick up 6 SB & loop back through the last 2 SB on the bracelet. Go through loop again to
reinforce the loop, tie thread off and weave thread end back through the bracelet. Dab knot
with clear nail polish. Repeat with thread from the first loop.

You can either attach a purchased clasp with jump rings, or make a simple hook from a piece
of wire.
Bracelet Inspired by a Bead Mix

I went to the Bead Society of San Diego County's 2nd Annual Bead Bazaar a while back.
They have a wonderful show with many vendors and tons of beads. The folks from the
Society are just delightful and are to be congratulated on a very successful event.

I got there just after they had opened, and was amazed that it was already quite
crowded. I couldn't get close to any of my favorite vendors, such as Glass Scapes by
Mingo & Asho and Pudgy Beads. I was patient, though, and when I did get close, I loaded
up! You'll be seeing my spoils in upcoming projects.

I discovered a few new vendors, much to my delight. One of them is a particular

standout: Wild Things Beads. These folks have a terrific selection of everything. I got
some beautiful Charlottes and some hand blown beads, as well as some gorgeous glass.
They were friendly and very helpful, too. I went back about 3 times before I got
everything I wanted.

One of the best parts of the day was winning the the door prize! Now, remember, I had
been buying beads all day long, and had some incredible stuff in my bag when I went to
check the door prize board. Lo and behold, I had won something! It was a package of six
tubes of amazing bead mixes from San Francisco Arts & Crafts.

At first I just put it in my bag. Next thing I knew I was sitting in the rest area, and I was
captivated. I felt like a kid who's parents have just purchased her a fantastic, expensive
toy, but who is having way more fun playing with the box!!

The bracelet pictured above is what I created with those beads. It started as a freeform
Peyote, and turned into a free for all. I was moving along just fine, when I got impatient.
I could hardly stand to go through the process of doing the Peyote. I think if the beads I
had had been sorted neatly before I began, I might have come out with a more orderly
piece. However, I was following a more "jumbled" feeling. In fact, as I was reading the
instructions, I happened upon a comment about taking care in the placement of your
beads on the base strand, as you might otherwise come out with a jumble, and I though
"yes, that's exactly what I want here - a jumble, but an organized jumble.

Here's what you'll need to make one for yourself:

One tube mixed beads, all types, in the same color family

Other assorted beads, such as I used here; amber, glass and freshwater pearls

Nymo Size B

#12 or #13 beading needle

Wax or Thread Heaven

1. I used the basic instructions as outlined in this article (Peyote bracelet).

2. I deviated from those excellent instructions by making a base row, 3 passes wide, in
Peyote stitch. The I began to stitch on beads in lines and loops, in patterns that made
sense to me.

3. Do not be afraid to pass through the beads several times, or to go back and forth to
fill in empty spots or stitch down any parts that may stick up or overlap.

4. Add a clasp using a tiny piece of French Coil, to protect the thread.

4. That's about it for instructions for this particular piece! If you have any problems, drop
me a line!

I am not sure that this piece is really done, as I see some spots I would like to fill in. And
to me, that's part of the beauty of this kind of work! No set design, or even a particular
technique, you can make it up as you go, or add to it later! It works up very fast. I made
this bracelet, scanned it and wrote about it in one day! So take a break from the rules,
and enjoy your free-for-all bracelet! I sure like mine!

Freeform Peyote Bracelet

Dateline: 06/29/98

Y'all have been bugging me for a lesson on freeform peyote for a long time now. Only trouble
is, there is not all that much to say about it! :-) It's incredibly simple, fun, and quick to do. Or
it can be, how much time you put in on a piece is entirely up to you. There are no big secrets
involved here, all it takes is the courage to let yourself color outside the lines. (g)

To prove that this is REALLY EASY, the bracelet (well half of it anyway) pictured above is
my very first attempt at this technique and I already feel qualified to teach it, lol! I'm not sure
how much time I spent on it, the time just flew by I was having so much fun. Basically I'm
just going to tell you what I did and give you a few ideas about how to get started if the idea
of just jumping in kinda scares ya.

First I went through my stash and picked out a bunch of seed beads in one color family (blue,
duh (g)). It's not necessary to stick with only one color, but I knew it would give my work
some cohesiveness it might otherwise lack. Besides, you can be sure that the shades you pick
out will "go together" that way. I tried to find as many different surface finishes as possible
plus a range of opaques, mattes, irises and transparents. I also used several different sizes of
seed beads, 10s, 11s, 13s, 14s and a few Delicas. The more variety the better! Then I picked
out a lovely little dichroic bead made by my friend Elaine Popelka at Montana Beadworks for
the focal point of the bracelet.

Once I had my seeds and my "special bead" picked out, I strung groups of each type of seed
bead on size B Nymo (I knew I would be weaving in and out a lot so I wanted to stick with a
relatively thin thread) until I had enough to go halfway around my wrist. Then I added my
special bead and more seeds until the two sides where equally long. Don't make each group of
a color the same number of beads. Try to make it look at least semi-random by picking up
say, 5 of one color, 2 of another, then 7, then 4, etc. Also watch out for a tendency to want to
put the same colors next to each other each time. You may want to make your string of beads
a little bit longer than you want the finished bracelet to be because it tends to shrink some.

Once my string was complete, I just started peyote-ing back the way I came in regular old
peyote stitch. I added two rows on top and two on the bottom. When I came to the big bead I
just went through it.

This is what it looked like when I was done. Don't worry about keeping your peyote perfectly
flat and straight, you can't. Mixing all different sizes of beads naturally makes the work a little
wavy and if your peyote is normally a little funky, this is the perfect technique for you! (g)
The funkier, the better I say. :-)

At this point I went through my stash again and picked out some larger beads that I thought
might look good incorporated into the piece. I didn't plan anything I just grabbed anything and
everything that I thought might work. Some E beads, some little 2mm lapis beads, a couple of
cut crystal beads, some window beads, teardrops, druks, etc.

Now comes the part that is easy to do, but hard to talk about. I just started picking up beads,
some little ones and occasionally a big one, and making loops along the sides of the peyote
strip. I did not rip out ANY stitches! (That doesn't mean you can't, I'm just proud of myself.
(g)) If a loop was too big I just wove back and tacked it down at another point along the loop.
I peyoted the loops as I went along, some I peyoted all the way around, some part way and
some not at all. Some of the loops connected to other loops, some just to the strip. Don't be
afraid to double back and add something whenever you feel it's needed. I let my loops
gradually extend farther out from the strip as I went toward the center. The thing is, this all
has to do with your own personal sense of aesthetics and your idea of what freeform peyote
should look like. I will list some links to other people's work at the end of this article to give
you an idea, but most of it has to come from you! :-)

Now, if the idea of just grabbing some beads and going wild is a little overwhelming, you can
give yourself a framework to work with this way. First pick out your accent beads. Then
weave in a new thread and work your way up the edge of the peyote strip adding accent beads
at irregular intervals by coming out of one of the beads at the edge, picking up one or two
seed beads, an accent bead and one more seed bead. Skip the last seed bead, go through the
rest and re-enter the strip. I have probably shown more beads added here than you actually
need, but is it possible to use too many? (g) If you have a longer bead you can go ahead and
add several beads on each side and make a loop out of it to add it.

Once you have your accent beads added, make loops around them by coming out a few beads
ahead of the added bead picking up a few seeds, going through the seed at the top of the
accent bead, then picking up some more seeds and re-entering the edge on the other side of
the accent bead. Don't just make perfect round little loops. Try putting a bunch of beads on
one side and only a couple on the other so that the accent bead is bent almost parallel with the
edge. Make each loop a different size and shape. Then go back and peyote the loops, either
inside the loop or outside, or both! Wherever you think it would look good. Add more loops
connecting loops, little "sticks" of beads, whatever. Just let your imagination run wild.

If there are spots on the peyote strip that seem "blank" to you, go ahead and add beads there
too.
Men's Bracelet

This bracelet is made from a double zigzag pattern I learned from Horace Goodhue's Indian
Bead-Weaving Patterns. He credits the design to Karen Swan, a Lakota artist.

What You'll Need:

Size 11 seed beads in permanent finish bronze, opaque medium blue, opaque black,
and opaque reddish brown.
Size B black nylon beading thread
Size 12 needle
Lobster claw clasp

To begin, pick up 9 black beads and 3 blue ones, do not tie a knot yet. Go back through the
4th from the last black bead.

Pick up 2 brown beads and 3 bronze beads. Go forward through the first of the nine black
beads you added in the previous step. Tie a square knot with the two ends of your thread.
Leave a few inches free on the loose end so that you can weave it in later.

[Repeat from the beginning of this step]

Pick up 3 black beads and three bronze beads and go down through the third bronze bead
down in the previous row.

Pick up 2 brown and 3 blue and go down through the 3rd blue bead in the previous row
Pick up 3 black, 1 bronze, 2 brown and go up through the 4th blue bead from the bottom in
the previous row.

Pick up 3 blue and 2 brown and go up through the top bronze bead in the previous row.

Pick up 3 black and 3 blue and go down through the first blue bead in the previous row.

Pick up 2 brown beads and 3 bronze beads and go down through the single bronze bead at the
bottom of the previous row.

Repeat from where it says "repeat from the beginning of this step" until you reach the length
you need. Men's bracelets are usually about 7 to 8 inches long. You will note the each row
alternates direction and consists of two stitches, one of six beads and one of five. End the
bracelet with a downward traveling row of six black, and then another five black to complete
the black edging around the piece.The stitches are attached in the same manner as the others,
down through the fourth bead from the top (counting the bead your thread is coming out of),
and down though the sixth bead from there. To add a clasp, make a loop with the 4 center
beads of your final row, 3 more black beads, the clasp, and another 3 black beads. Go around
the loop as many times as you can and then weave back into the bracelet a short way. Then tie
the loose end around the thread between two beads, weave into the work a few more inches
and trim. Attach the other half of the clasp to the opposite end of the bracelet in the same
manner.

Midnight at the Oasis Pattern

Peyote Stitch in a Traditional Henna Pattern

Like the exotic look of Mehendi around your wrist, ankle, or throat? No henna artist in
sight? Well, don't fold up your tent yet. You can have that look, without staining your
skin, or walking in the sand dunes, here, with this delicate, Middle Eastern inspired
peyote stitch piece. This bracelet is made with Delica beads composed of the rich, lush
color of Henna (DB 22) and the smooth hue of a pampered Cleopatra's wrist (DB 353).

Mehendi, also known as Henna, is a very ancient art, having its origins in India and
across the Silk Road through the Middle East and into the desert regions of North Africa.
It was (and is) most often used to decorate brides. The legend goes that as long as a
bride's henna paintings have not worn off, she need not do housework in her new
mother-in-law's home. I'm sure many a desert bride thought up numerous ways of
keeping her paintings as fresh and clear as they were on the day of her wedding.

Most traditional Indian henna patterns are very curvy and floral in nature. Dots are used
to bring good wishes and money, in fact they are sometimes called "money dots". The
more Tribal Henna traditions of North African areas such as Egypt and Morocco are more
angular and geometric. I like to think that this pattern is a beadwork blend of both
styles; lots of angles and some areas suggesting flowers, and, of course, loads of dots,
which can also signify beads!

Have fun with this Peyote Mehendi!

Showcasing Fine Furnace Glass

Cross Cross Weaving with Seeds

A bit of seed bead cross weaving and some gorgeous furnace glass make this a standout
piece of beaded jewelry. You'll love the look and it only takes a short time from design to
new bracelet!

How many of us have the odd bead here or there that we had to have but now are not
sure what to do with? I have an entire drawer full of them, but as I was putting away my
goodies from the last bead show I attended, this wonderful Mingo and Asho bead caught
my eye, so I had to make something with it, right away!

I want to thank Margie Deeb for the clasp attachement method used in this bracelet. She
shows this method, along with lots of other amazing things, in her wonderful new book
Out on a Loom .

Here's the instructions to make your own bracelet, so you, too can show off those lovely
furnace pieces. If you have more than one bead, make another one with a longer ladder
section and wear it as a choker, then you'll have an incredible set of jewelry! Here's what
you need:

1 - 20mm long furnace glass bead or equivalent

44 - 2mm gold round beads

20 - 4mm Swarovski bicone crystal in a color to complement your bead

250 - Size 11/0 seed beads, also in a complimentary color

1 - gold colored double strand clasp

1. Start by stretching and conditioning with wax (this is important) a 6 foot length of
Nymo "D", then thread a needle onto each end.

2. Place the large furnace glass bead in the center of the thread.

3. Add 1 gold bead and 5 seed beads to each needle, move them next to the furnace
glass bead.

4. On the left hand needle only, place a gold bead, a crystal and a gold bead. Push these
down to meet the seed beads on that side.

5. Using the right hand needle, pass through the first gold bead, the crystal and the
second gold bead. Your needles will have changed sides with this move.

6. Repeat until you have a total of 9 links, ending with the last pass through a gold,
crystal and gold.

7. Add 3 seed beads to one needle. Pass the needle from bottom to top of one hole in the
clasp, making sure your work is face up, and the clasp is also face up.

8. Add a seed bead and pass back through the clasp hole from top to bottom.

9. Pass back through the 3 seed beads, pull the thread taunt and tie off next to the round
gold bead. Secure your knot with a dab of clear nail polish. Repeat on other side.

10. Thread your needles with a new, conditioned, 6 foot length of thread, and pass it
through the large bead, positioning it on the opposite side of the first thread. Repeat
from Step 3 to make the other side of bracelet.

Now you have a beautiful new bracelet, just perfect for showing off those fantastic
furnace treasures!
Sleek and Stylish Needle Woven Bracelet
Using Seed Beads and Leather Cord

Here's another "fashion find" seed beaded jewelry item that I was able to whip up in a
very short time! I used basic leather cord (available everywhere) and 11/0 Japanese
seed beads (not Delicas) to work this little bracelet.

These look great worn alone or in a group like bangle bracelets. This technique could also
be adapted to make a choker or anklet as well. The one shown here is made in some
juicy summery shades of pink, orange and purple but it can easily be done in any color
scheme you choose. And, if you prefer a larger look, it works great with rattail cord and
6/0 beads!

Here's what you'll need to Make one For Yourself:

24 inches 1mm Leather cord, dark brown

Dark Brown Nymo
45 Silver lined rainbow Orange size 11/0 seed beads
18 Magenta color lined size 11/0 seed beads
9 Galvanized Gold size 11/0 seed beads
#12 beading needle, blunted
Leather Fold-Over type crimper
Lobster Claw clasp - small
Thread Heaven or wax, to condition thread

1. Prepare approximately 1 yard of Nymo by stretching it and

passing it lightly over the Thread Heaven or wax and threading it
through the needle.

2. Fold the leather cord over. About 1/2 inch down from the
bend at the top, tie your thread onto one strand of the doubled
leather cord. Hold the leather cord with the knot on the right.

3. Pick up a Silver lined Rainbow Orange bead, and pass the

Nymo over the leather cord on the opposite (left) cord, going
over the top of the cord.

4. Bring the Nymo around the bottom of the cord, and pass through the seed bead again.
Keep the thread tension even and tight, so that the beads stay in place along the cord.

5. Bring the Nymo over the top of the right hand cord and up from the bottom, and add
another seed bead. Pass the Nymo over the top of the cord on the left, and back up from
beneath, and pass back through the bead again. You may find it easier to stitch by
turning the cord over, with the loop down, when you pass back through the bead.

6. The bead pattern is as follows: 5 Silver lined Rainbow Orange, 1 Magenta color lined
bead, 1 Gold bead, one Magenta color lined bead, repeat from the 5 Silver lined Rainbow
Orange.

7. Repeat until the design is completed and your bracelet is of the proper length.
8. End by crimping the two loose ends of the leather cord in the fold-over leather
crimper.

9. Add the small lobster clasp to the ring at the end of the fold-over.

10. Close the bracelet by simply attaching the lobster claw clasp to the loop of leather at
the opposite end. This makes for a casual looking finish to this bracelet. If you prefer a
more formal fastener, you can add a fold-over clasp at the looped end as well, and place
a loop on that for closure.

With this piece, as with many others, there are many variations you may try. It works up well
on a larger scale, using size 8/0 or even 6/0 beads, and correspondingly larger leather cord, or
even with silk rat-tail cord. It can be made longer, and is durable enough to work well as an
anklet. It also makes a nice choker. Make a few for friends or for yourself, and enjoy this
sleek, stylish and versatile little bracelet!

Soft and Slinky Dutch Spiral

Free Bead Pattern using Chic Turquoise Accents
This Dutch Spiral Beaded Bracelet uses seed beads in size 14/0, 11/0, 8/0 White Hearts and a
couple of turquoise nuggets and it simply never fails to get a compliment.

I had originally planned to use this piece as the band for a bracelet with a large piece of
turquoise in the middle, but as I neared the completion, I saw that the Spiral was just lovely
all by itself. The colors I used remind me of the various hues of turquoise, and I love to work
with any kind of white heart.

The bead progression on this piece is a bit different, too. I used a size 8/0 as the large bead,
and my three bead combination consists of a 14/0, an 11/0 and a 14/0. This makes for a
slightly closer weave, and does not cause the piece to curl or twist, but to be a smooth, tight
weave. Here's what you need to make your own:

5 grams (approx.) Size 8/0 White heart Beads - Light Blue

5 grams (approx.) Size 11/0 beads - Clear, Turquoise lined seed beads

5 grams (approx.) Size 14/0 beads - Matte Black

2 - 10 mm (approx.) Turquoise nuggets

1 - 10 mm Sterling Silver Fancy Toggle Clasp Set

Nymo D - Light Blue

2 - 8 mm (approx.) long pieces of silver French Coil

1. Start the bracelet pattern according to these instructions (spiral chain), but instead of
using 11/0 beads in the first row, use the 14/0's.

2. Continue the pattern in the instructions, except at Step #7, use a 14/0 and an 11/0.
Then at Step #8 use an11/0, a 14/0 and an 11/0. Maintain this pattern throughout the
bracelet.

3. When you have reached a length of 5 1/2 inches, or until you are 1 1/2 inches shorter
that the wrist size, finish off according to the instructions, using the corresponding 11/0
and 14/0 beads as above.

4. Using a new thread of Nymo, pass through the bead closest to the tip of the Spiral,
and knot securely, leaving a 6" tail.

5. Add one of the Turquoise nuggets, an 11/0 bead, a 14/0 bead and an 11/0 bead.

6. Place the 8mm piece of French Coil onto the thread, and pass through the end of the
toggle clasp.

7. Pass back through the 11/0, 14/0 and 11/0 and the Turquoise nugget, coming out
close to the thread that you added.

8. Tie two overhand knots using the free thread and the tail you left. Secure with a dab
of clear nail polish. Turn the piece over and repeat the knots on the other side, securing
them with nail polish as well.

9. Repeat from Step 4 above on the other side.

Enjoy this light and silky Dutch Spiral bracelet. Of course, it can be made longer and
worn as a necklace. It can also be worn with the clasp on top of the wrist or underneath
the wrist. I like to wear mine on top, ot looks great that way! Either way, you're sure to
get loads of compliments!
Spiral Rope Chain
Easy and versatile stitch for necklaces, bracelets and more!

The Spiral Rope Chain is one of the easiest and most versatile stitches we have. It can be
used on it's own, as a bag strap, or as the basis for a necklace, bracelet or anklet. Once
you get the basic start down, it work up in no time, and you can do it while watching TV.
It is a simple, two bead, same size piece, so no having to chase different sized beads
around.

Here's what you need to do to get your own Spiral Rope Chain started:

Size 11/0 seed beads - approx. 5 grams, in two different colors. Use high contrast colors
for your first Spiral, it makes it easier to see what you are doing.

Nymo Thread - Size "D" in a color to match the core beads on the Spiral.

Size 12 Beading Needle

French Coil (aka bullion or gimp) - 2 pieces, 8 mm long, each piece.

Clasp and ring for finishing.

1. Cut a 3 foot piece of Nymo, stretch and condition with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
Thread your beading needle.

2. Place 4 beads in your core color (white in the pictures) and 3 beads in the outside
spiral color onto your thread.

3. Tie the beads into a circle. leaving about a 6" tail. Pass the needle through the 4 core
beads, and come out at the top.
4. Now add 1 bead in the core color (white) and 3 beads in the spiral color (blue). Let the
beads drop down to the work.

5. Pass the needle through 3 of the first four 4 core beads (white) and the 1 core bead
you just added. Do not pass through the very first core bead on the thread.

6. Pull the thread up through all the beads, and push the 3 blue beads over, so that they
sit next to the first set of 3.

7. Repeat from Step 5 until your Spiral reaches the length you want. Keep pushing the
top beads over as you go and remember to only pass the needle through 4 of the core
beads.

8. Finish your bracelet (or necklace or anklet) by adding the gimp to the tail thread,
passing it through the fining, and stitching it back into the spiral. Make sure to tie a very
secure knot, and finish with a drop of clear nail polish. Repeat on the other side.
Using different size beads, you can accomplish lots of great things with this stitch. it
looks great done with size 6/0 beads, and makes a very fine piece with 13/0 or 15/0
beads. So experiment, and if you come up with something really cool, send me a picture
for the Beadwork Gallery!

Square Stitch Ladder Bracelet

Fun and Different Beaded Bracelet

I was inspired to make this bracelet by something I saw on a friend's wrist. I am not
above removing people's bead work from their person in order to inspect it more closely,
or to try to trace the thread path, if I see something unusual. Perhaps it's a beader thing,
but most folks who know me have gotten used to me asking them to remove pieces of
their wardrobe, so that I may photocopy it!!

After I had the idea for this bracelet in my head, I received a copy of a very interesting
and original book, Carole Collier's The Three Bead Brick Stitch Necklace Expressions.
Carole has devised a very original stitch, using bugle and seed beads, in a manner similar
to this. Her stitch is a brick stitch, and more versatile that this one, but I think this
bracelet would make a good warm-up project before starting with hers. Check out the
book, she even has graph paper for making your own designs using her cool stitch.

Now, on to the bracelet. When making this design, I found it to be beat to use regular
seed beads rather than cylinder type beads, because they tend to match up better to the
length of the bugle beads. Here's what you'll need to get started:

54 #4 Japanese Bugle Beads (approximately)

599 Silver Lined Red 11/0 Seed Beads (approximately)

Gray Nymo "D" Thread

#12 Beading needle

1. Start by square stitching a row of 3 #4 bugle beads.

2. Continue for 2 more rows, making the bracelet 3 beads high

and 3 beads wide.

3. Next, add 6 seed beads next to the bugle bead, as a single bead. Pass back up
through the bugle, and back through all 6 seed beads. Continue 2 more times for the
row.

4. Add another row of 3 sets of 6 seed beads.

5. Continue pattern from Step #1 above, until bracelet is desired length.

6. Make the toggle by passing the thread through the first bugle in the first row, then out
the inside (next to the middle bead) end of the first. Add 6 seed beads, then 1 bugle,
then pass back through the last 3 seed beads. Add 3 more seed beads, and pass through
the last bugle bead. 7. Pass the needle back through the second row of bugle beads, to
the thread end and tie off. Secure knot with a drop of clear nail polish.

8. Make the loop by passing the thread through the first bugle bead on the other end of
the bracelet, then out the inside (next to the middle bead) end of the first. Add 14 seed
beads, making a loop. Pass back through the first seed bead strung, and pass back
through the last bugle bead. Pass the thread back through the second row of bugles,
exiting and tying off the thread. Secure with a drop of clear nail polish.

9. Weave a thread back through all rows to stabilize and secure the bracelet. This will
make the finished piece stronger and less likely to stretch out.

Of course, this bracelet can be made with any color seed beads or bugles you choose. It
works up quickly and has a striking appearance. Try it with different sizes of bugle beads,
as long as you can match seed beads to the size of the bugle.

I like the Japanese bugles because they do not cut the thread as easily as other types of
bugles. It has to do with the way they are cut. Also, I know that this closure is not the
most ideal, but it does work well with this bracelet, especially if you go back through the
loop and toggle a second time with your thread. It will close securely and will stay closed.
Enjoy this lovely bracelet, and give those cool necklaces of Carole's a try!

African Net - Beaded Lace Necklace

from by Emily Hackbarth

A Free Bead Pattern

This African Net - Beaded Lace Necklace is a favorite bead pattern among beaders. Using
seed beads and a simple netting technique, you can make one for yourself in less time than
you think!

Taking the steps individually is the key to making this beading project work. Before you start,
make sure you have all of your supplies on hand including the thread of your choice, a
beading needle and few grams of either Delica or size 11/0 seed beads.

Taking the steps individually is the key to making this African Net beading project work.
Before you start, make sure you have all of your supplies on hand including the thread of
your choice, a beading needle and few grams of either Delica or size 11/0 seed beads.

Step 1: To begin, pick up one bead and go through it twice to secure it. Then pick up 11
more beads and go back through the 7th from the end.

Step 2: Now pick up 4 more beads and go down through your start bead (the very first
one you picked up).

Step 3: Pick up 9 more beads and go up through the 7th from the end.

Step 4: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from where your thread is
coming out.

Step 5: Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 4th bead up from your thread.
Step 6: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 2nd of the 3 beads you just added.

Step 7: Pick up another 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down from the bead
your thread is coming out of.

Step 8: Pick up 5 beads and go down through the 6th bead down from your thread.
Step 9: Pick up 6 beads and go back through the 4th from the end.

Step 10: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from your thread. (Note
that except for the turns at the top and bottom, you always skip the same number of
beads as you are adding.)

Step 11: Again, pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from the bead your
thread is coming out of.

Step 12: Now pick up 3 beads and go up through the 4th bead up.
Step 13: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 2nd of the 3 beads you just added.

Step 14: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down from the bead your
thread is coming out of.

Step 15: Pick up 5 beads and go down through the 6th down from your thread.
Step 16: Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 3rd bead of the 5 you just added.

Step 17: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 6th bead up from your thread.

Step 18: Pick up 3 beads and go through the 4th bead up.
Step 19: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 2nd of the 3 beads you just added.

Step 20: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 5th bead down.

Step 21: Pick up 5 beads and go up through the 2nd bead from the top of the 4 you just
added.
Step 22: Pick up 3 beads and go up through the 4th bead up from your thread.

Step 23: Pick up 4 beads and go down through the 2nd of the 3 beads you just added.

From here, continue from step 2 on. For the purposes of step two, treat the bead marked
with a white dot in the above illustration as though it were the start bead.
Bedouin Necklace: Part One

Dateline: 12/29/97

Some time ago, a lovely woman named Orit Tykocinski offered to send me photographs of
her collection of Bedouin beadwork. They arrived recently and among them (you'll see the
rest of them next week) was a photo of this fascinating necklace. Of course I had to try to
figure out how it was made!

Click on the picture to see a larger version.

What I found was, there are many, many, possible methods for making this necklace and the
one I will show you here is most likely not the one used originally. Orit believes that it may
have been made using two needles and I am inclined to agree with her. However, I hate
working with two needles so my way only uses one. Whether or not this is the best way to do
it, I don't know, but it is the easiest to diagram because it repeats. I'm just going to get you
started this week and we will finish up next week.

I decided to use some pretty 3-cuts in AB pinky-orange and jet black. What we are going to
do today is make the strip that runs down the center of each of the side sections and the large
diamond-shaped center piece.

To begin, pick up 4 pink beads and tie them in a circle. Go through the bead next to where
your thread is coming out and pick up 6 more pink beads. Go through the back of the 4th bead
from the end.

Pick up 6 more pink beads and again go through the 4th from the end. Continue around the
small loop you just made through 2 more beads.
Pick up 2 pink beads and 4 black ones. Go through the back of the 1st black bead you added.
Pick up 2 more pink beads and go through the bead opposite the one you left in the first little
loop you made when you tied the original 4 beads in a circle. This forms the basic unit used
for this portion of the necklace.

Now we need to get back down to the bottom in order to add another unit. Make a circuit
around the unit by going up through the next two beads in the loop, right through the five
beads between it and the loop parallel to it, around the right side of that loop, through the two
beads to the left and around the left side of the bottom loop. Now we can begin the next unit.

Repeat from here.

Pick up 6 black beads and go through the back of the 4th from the end. Continue around the
loop through 2 more beads and pick up another 6 black beads. Go through the back of the 4th
from the end. Pick up another 6 black beads and go through the back of the 4th and through
the next two in the loop. Pick up 2 more black and connect the second unit to the first by
going through the left hand side of the bead at the bottom of the lower-most loop in the first
unit.

Again, we need to get back to the bottom of the new unit in order to add another. Go around
the right side of the new unit, then down and around the left side of the bottom loop.
From here on, each unit is constructed the same way as the previous one (repeat from where it
says "Repeat from here."), only the colors change. The following diagram illustrated the color
sequence used. Repeat this sequence 3 times for each side piece, and 2 times for the center
piece. Next week I will show you how to complete each section and connect them to make the
necklace, so be sure to stop by!

Last week we started making an unusual Bedouin necklace, this week we will finish it. Below
is a picture of my version. I didn't like the fringe, so I left it off.

Click on the picture to see a larger version.

Last week we made the strips that run down the center of each section of the necklace. This
next diagram reflects where we left off with the side portions of the necklace. Now we will
work up and down each side of the previously made strips adding half-units to complete the
sections. Orient your work so that it matches the diagram in terms of thread direction. Your
thread should be coming out of the bottom black bead in the circle that joins the last two units.
First we need to get our thread into the correct position to begin. Weave left through the next
two black beads and through the top pink bead in the adjacent circle.

To add the first half unit, pick up 6 pink beads and go through the back of the fourth from the
end. Continue through the next two beads in the circle and pick up two black beads. Go left
through the bottom bead of the next circle up. Continue around the circle for two more beads,
coming out from the top bead in the circle.

Each half-unit is made the same way with the same number of beads. The trick is in the thread
routing involved in getting the shape we want without distorting anything. The general rule to
avoid distortion is: Circles may only be entered or left by the top and bottom beads in the
circle. Use these graphs to see what colors to use for each half-unit.

Add the second half-unit and attach it by going in the bottom bead of the next circle up. Now
we have to skip a unit. The following diagram shows how to route your thread properly to
avoid distortion and get the thread to where it needs to be.

Add two more half-units and repeat the above thread routing before adding the last two half-
units. Now we need to cross to the other side to repeat this process. This next diagram shows
how to accomplish this.
Now work down the right side in the same manner as you worked up the right. When you
reach the bottom and your thread is coming out of the left hand side of the top bead in the
final circle of your original strip you need to make a "u-turn" to get into position for the next
row of half-units. This diagram shows you how.

Add one half-unit, then weave into position for the next using the following thread route. Add
another half-unit, repeat the thread routing, and add one more half-unit to complete the right
side of the section.

Use the following thread route to cross to the left side. Complete the left side of the section
the same way as the right. Then repeat the entire process with your other side strip.
The central diamond shaped piece is made very similarly. There is no need to skip any half-
units however so it's quite a bit easier. The process is as follows: work up the left side, cross
to the right side and work down. Then do a u-turn and work up the right side. Cross to the left
and work down. Make a u-turn and work up the left side, etc. This should become fairly
obvious as you are working. The idea is to work a duplicate vertical row on each side of the
center strip before beginning the next set of vertical rows. Cross between sides, u-turn to
begin a new set. Here are examples of each:

Cross

U-Turn

Now all that's left to do is connecting the sections to create the finished necklace. Click here
for a diagram with connection points and a suggestion for the number of beads to use for each
connection. I say suggestion, because the number of beads needed to make a smooth curve
varies greatly with the exact size of beads you use. So try the suggested number first and then
adjust to make a smooth curve. Sorry, but you will have to figure out the thread routing for
this yourself, as long as you remember the rule "Circles may only be entered or left by the top
and bottom beads in the circle" you will be ok. Think of it as a learning opportunity. :-)

The strap on the original is simply loops of seed beads from each end of the side sections that
join into a single continuous string. I plan to use 5 single strands attached across the top edges
of the side peices instead. If you come up with a great strap idea, please let me know!

Dutch Spiral Necklace

 Click on the picture to see a close-up

I went over the Dutch Spiral technique briefly in my Ruffles & Curls feature several months
ago but there has been a lot of interest in this technique lately so I thought it would be fun to
present a full project using it. I made this necklace for the Beadwork list Secret Pal Swap.

What You'll Need

8 ceramic tube beads. Dark blue with peach & medium blue flowers. They are about
3/5 of an inch long by 1/4 of an inch wide.

10 round 6mm transparent peach beads

1 hank size 10 sapphire satin seeds
1 vial size 8 silver-lined teal delicas
Several strands each of light blue matte transparent (you might want to try substituting
peach for these), silver-lined blue, and silver-lined purple size 11 seeds (I used delicas
for the purple)

Sterling ring and bar clasp (aka toggle clasp)

1 yard Softflex wire
size D Nymo beading thread
size 12 beading needle
4 silver crimp beads
flat-nosed or crimping pliers

We will begin by constructing the spiral portion of the necklace. Pick up 1 teal, 2 light blue
matte, 1 silver-lined blue, 1 purple, and 2 sapphire satin and tie them in a circle. Continue
through the teal bead.
For the second row, we will add one bead in between each of the first 5 beads and 4 between
the 5th bead of the base row and the first bead of the new row. Pick up one teal and go
through the first of the two blue mattes. Pick up a blue matte and go through the second blue
matte in the base row. Pick up another blue matte and go through the silver-lined blue. Pick
up a silver-lined blue and go through the purple. Then pick up 1 purple and 3 sapphire satin
and go through the first teal bead you added. You'll note that the first bead you pick up is
always the same color as the bead your thread is coming out of; remembering this is a big
help in keeping your place.

From the third row on, the method is basically the same as odd-count tubular peyote. For the
third row, pick up a teal bead and go through the first blue matte in the previous row. Then
pick up a blue matte and go through the second blue matte. Pick up another blue matte and go
through the silver-lined blue. Then pick up a silver-lined blue and go through the purple.
Finally, pick up one purple and 4 sapphire satin and go through the teal bead you started the
row with.

Each subsequent row is constructed the same way with the exception of the number of
sapphire satin beads used in each final stitch. The number of these should be increased by one
in each row until you reach 18. From that point on, use 18 sapphire satin in each row until you
reach a length of about 8 1/2 inches. At that point you should begin decreasing the number of
sapphire satin beads by one for each row until you get back to 2. When you reach the final
row, tighten it up by going through only the beads added in that row a couple of extra times.
Weave your thread back into the work and snip.

Now we'll add the rest of the necklace. Take your wire and cut it in half. Take one piece and
thread one crimp bead, one peach bead, and one satin sapphire. Skip the satin and go up
through the peach bead and the crimp. Go past the crimp by an inch or so. Then use flat-nosed
pliers (or crimping pliers if you have them) to squash the crimp bead tightly.
Now thread the other end of the wire through the end of the finished spiral. Pull it up tight so
that the peach bead is hidden inside the spiral.

Now pick up one ceramic tube, one peach bead, one tube, one peach, 1 tube, 1 peach, 1 tube,
1 peach, and 20 teal. Add a crimp bead and one side of your clasp. Skip the clasp and go
down through the crimp bead and the teal beads. Tighten and crimp. Cut the wire just short of
the top tube bead and slip it inside. Repeat this process with the other piece of wire and you
are done. :-)

Embellished Floral Choker

This Content created by Emily Hackbarth

Click on the picture to see a closeup.

This special little necklace is made up of a simple chain of right-angle weave and lot and
lots of tiny beaded flowers. The techniques you will learn in making this choker can also
be used to embellish amulet bags and straps, bracelets, earrings, hair ornaments,
anything you can think of! The art of embellishment is tailor made to let your creativity
shine through. I will show you how to make several different flowers and it will be up to
you to decide placement and color.

What You'll Need:

1 hank transparent medium green seed beads

lobster claw clasp

jump ring

a mixture of brightly colored sparkly seed beads, ponies, Czech crystals,

(whatever you've got hiding in your magic bag! :-)

Begin by making a chain of right-angle weave long enough to fit your neck. Use doubled
thread for strength. All beads used in this section are green seed beads. Pick up your
clasp and three seed beads. Tie them in a circle. Go around the circle several times to
strengthen it come out through the bead that is at a right-angle to your clasp. Pick up 3
more beads and go through the back of the bead your thread is coming out of and
around through two more so that your thread is coming out of the right-most bead.
Repeat until your chain is long enough to fit around your neck comfortably. Pick up one
bead, your jump ring and another bead. Go through the back of the bead your thread is
coming out of to form a circle. Go around the circle several times to add strength and
weave your way back into the piece to secure.

To give myself some room to work with, I added a partial second row of 20 units in the
center of my chain.

I chose not to embellish the entire chain. I placed three small groups of one or two
flowers on either side of the central double rowed portion and concentrated on
completely covering only the doubled section. Most of the variation is in the colors and
sizes of the bead used rather than the techniques used to create the flowers. If you come
up with any additional flower designs I'd love to hear about them!

The flowers are pretty simple to make, the trick is keeping the beads snug against the
chain as you work. This will take practice. Hold the beads against the chain as you work
and adjust them as needed to keep them tight. If you're not careful you'll end up with a
big ol' piece of thread between your flower and the chain.

The first flower looks a bit like a daisy but it's more realistic because the petals are
independent of each other. Pick up one green seed bead and one of the color you wish to
use for your petals, I used red. Pass your needle up through the green seed bead. Pick
up another red bead and go up through the green bead again. Do this six times all
together.

To add a center, pick up a bead of a contrasting color (yellow in this case) and go back
down through the center of the green bead.
To add a leaf, choose a bead near your flower to come out of. Pick up two dark green
seed beads. Go up through the bottom of the first one and down through the top of the
second one. Go through the other side of the bead you originally left and up through the
first added bead again. Pick up one more bead and go down through the second bead
and the chain bead again.

I like to think this next flower looks like a calla lily. You need to know brick stitch to make
these. Pick up one green bead and one white bead. From the white bead add three more
to create a brick stitch base row of four. Decrease normally adding a row of three, one of
2 and one of one. Weave back to the base and down through one end. Go up through the
bead at the other end of the base then back down through the first end.

Go down through the green stem bead and through the other side of the chain bead you
originally left. Then back up through the base and up to the top of the flower. Go through
the bead at the tip of the flower and pick up another white bead. Go back down through
the bead you left and pick up three yellow beads. Go down through the hole at the base
of the flower that was created when you connected the two ends of the base and through
the green stem bead. Re-enter the chain. The flower is likely to stick out strangely, if this
happens, weave your way through the chain to a point at the back of the lily and sew it
down.

This next flower is also made with the brick stitch. Pick up one or two green beads for a
stem and one petal (purple) bead. From the purple bead create a brick stitch base row of
three. Connect the ends to form a triangle.

For the second row, increase two, first by adding two at once in the first stitch, two
separately in the second stitch, and one in the last. Connect the last bead in the row with
the first.

Add a center by coming up through the hole in the center, picking up a bead, and going
back down through the hole again.

Fill in the spaces between the more complex flowers with these simple ones.

Just use seed beads for these.

Add more flowers branching of from the first stem.

Crystals and other larger beads work well in this formation.

All text and graphics by Emily Hackbarth 1997

Favorite Bead Necklace

Free Bead Pattern by Emily Hackbarth
What You'll Need to make Emily's Favorite Bead Necklace:

Around 1000 size 8 hex-cut seed beads.

This example uses the color called Metallic Olive Iris.

10 to 15 6mm spherical beads.

Semi-precious stone beads would look great. Black semi-glossy glass are used in this
example.

10 to 15 Delicas that match your larger seed beads.

Lobster claw clasp

Beading Needle

Size A Silimide pre-waxed thread.

First, attach your lobster claw clasp. Use a couple of beads on either side to form a loop,
tie off leaving a tail to hide later. String on 162 seed beads. Check the length to see if it
needs to be shorter or longer. It isn't a choker, it should hang down an inch or so. If it's
long enough, add one more bead. If it needs to be longer, add beads in sets of 16 plus
one extra bead at the end. Too long? Remove beads in sets of 16. You will still need to
add one extra bead at the end. Add a jump ring to the other end and hide the tail of your
thread by going back through several beads. Start a new thread by entering 10 beads or
so from the end and going through the last bead several times to secure it. To form the
first loop, pick up 30 beads. Skip the next 16 beads and pass your needle through the
17th bead to form a loop. Go down through the last five beads you just added.

The rest of the large loops are formed like this: Pick up 25 beads, skip 15 beads and go
through the 16th. Go down through the last five beads you just added. Repeat until you
get to the end of your necklace.

The smaller loops inside are slightly more complicated so I've enlarged the diagram a bit
so that you can see better.

From the end of the base row thread through 5 beads. Pick up 20 beads, skip 7 beads in
the base row and go through the 8th. Now go back through all 20 beads and through the
back of the bead that you originally left. Continue through the next 4 beads. Pick up 1
seed bead, 1 accent bead, 1 more seed bead, and 1 Delica. Skip the Delica (your turn
bead) and go back up through your large seed beads and your accent bead. Re-enter the
base row at the back of the bead your thread is coming out of. Continue through the next
twelve beads and repeat this process. I find it easier to remember that there are 3 beads
between the beginning of each large loop and the beginning of each small loop. This is
true for the ends of the loops as well. This diagram of a completed section should help
you visualize this.

This necklace can be made with smaller beads, just add more sections and use
correspondingly smaller accent beads. They should have room to swing freely inside the
smaller loop. Experiment with the size and number of loops you use.

A Garland of Fall Leaves

Beaded Necklace by Emily Hackbarth
Ever since I posted instructions for my beaded Apache leaf stitch earring pattern people
have been asking about the un-modified bead pattern version of Apache leaf stitch. This
project provides a chance to learn the stitch and make an attractive necklace, bracelet,
or anklet in the process. I learned the stitch from Horace Goodhue's Indian Bead-
Weaving Patterns a book that all beadworkers should consider purchasing. Horace
derived the stitch from a necklace (presumably an Apache one) he saw in a museum in
Phoenix AZ.

What You'll Need:

Bronze size 11 Czech seed beads. Don't get the slick shiny kind, the finish
on those comes right off. These have a pitted surface and the finish is
permanent. Ask if you're not sure. If you can't find them try a nice shade
of brown instead.

Red-orange matte transparent size 11 seed beads.

Yellow-orange opaque size 11 seed beads (they look very orange here, but
the beads I used were actually much more yellow).

Lime green transparent size 11 seed beads.

Size D brown Nymo.

Size 12 or 13 beading needle.

Gold clasp.

To begin, thread your needle and tie on one half of your clasp leaving a tail long enough
to weave in later. First we need to make a base row as long as you want the finished
piece to be. This pattern makes a fun bracelet or anklet as well as a unique and beautiful
necklace. Start with 6 bronze beads. Then add groups of one leaf bead (alternating
between red-orange and yellow-orange) and 8 bronze beads until you reach the length
you need. End with a group of one leaf bead and 6 bronze beads. Add the other half of
your clasp and go back through the last bronze bead. Arrange your base row so that the
end your thread is coming out of is on the left side.

Now we are ready to start weaving. Pick up 4 bronze beads and 1 lime green bead. Go
back up through the 4th bronze bead. Pick up 3 more bronze beads. Go forward through
the 4th bead in the base row and back down through the last of the beads you just
added.
[Repeat from the beginning of this step]
Now we can start our first leaf. Pick up 2 bronze beads and 8 of the leaf color that
matches the first leaf bead in your base row. In this case I started with red. Skip the 8th
leaf bead and go back up through the 7th. This forms part of the left side of the leaf and
the pointed tip.

Pick up 9 leaf beads and go through the back of the 1st leaf bead in the base row. Now
go back down through the 9th leaf bead you added in the previous step. This forms the
complete right side of the leaf.

Now pick up 2 more leaf beads. Complete the outline of the leaf shape by going down
through the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd leaf beads from the top on the left hand side of the leaf.
Now we will fill in the leaf. Pick up three more leaf beads and go down through the 5th
and 6th (not counting the base row bead) leaf beads on the right hand side.

Pick up another leaf bead and go through the 2nd of the beads you just added. Pick up
another and go down through the 5th and 6th leaf beads on the left hand side of the leaf.
Now go up through the three beads you first added and up through the 4th bead from
the top on the right side. The five beads you added in the center of the leaf should form
an X shape.

Pick up 3 bronze beads. Skip the next 2 bronze beads after the leaf bead in the base row
and go through the 3rd. Then go down through the top bronze bead you just added. Pick
up 3 more bronze beads and a lime green bead. Skip the green bead and go up through
the 3rd bronze bead. Pick up 3 more bronze beads. Skip the next 2 bronze beads in the
base row after the last one you went through and go through the 3rd. Go down through
the top bronze bead you just added.

To continue, repeat everything under the words: [Repeat from the beginning of this step]
Herringbone Cord
This free bead pattern created by Emily Hackbarth

I was fooling around with beaded herringbone weave (aka Ndebele weave) and I figured
out how to make this neat bead cord. I don't know if it's actually "new" or not, I haven't
even gotten a chance to check out the books that feature this stitch yet. If you've seen it
before and know of a name for it, I'd love to hear about it.

Here's a close up:

I used matte blue, silver-lined purple and metallic fuchsia Delica beads in my example.
Choose a thread color that will not contrast too sharply with your bead colors. I used
medium blue Synbond. The base row I'm using here is a modified version of the base row
method featured in the Winter '98 issue of Beadwork Magazine.

To begin, tie one fuchsia bead to the end of your thread and go through it once. Pick up
3 more fuchsia, 4 blue and 4 purple. Then go through the back of the first fuchsia bead
to form a circle. As you take these next 3 stitches, keep them loose until you've done all
of them. Skip the next 2 fuchsia beads and go through the 4th fuchsia and the 1st blue.
Skip the next two blue beads and go through the 4th blue and the 1st purple. Skip the
next two purple beads and go through the 4th one.

Now pull your thread tight. Your work so far should end up looking something like the
next illustration with 3 double columns of beads, 1 of each color. As we build the cord,
we will be adding to each column by placing a pair of beads in the "v" at the top of each
of them. Thread your needle up through the side of the fuchsia column that's closest to
your thread.

Repeat From Here

Pick up two fuchsia beads and go down through the first bead on the other side of the
column. Then go up through the bottom of the top bead in the blue column on the side
closest to your thread. Keep your tension very tight. As you go, start squeezing the
columns toward the center so that they stand upright.

It should start looking like the next illustration, don't be disturbed if it doesn't tighten up
right away though. Pick up 2 blue beads and go down through the top blue bead on the
other side of the column. Then go up through the bottom of the top bead in the purple
column on the side closest to your thread. I try do both of these steps in one motion.

Now pick up 2 purple beads and go down through the top bead on the other side of the
purple column. Now that we have added two beads to each column, it's time to get our
needle in position for the next row. You will be tempted to go up through the top fuchsia
bead in the column next door, but this is not correct. Go up through the bead just below
the top bead and the top bead in the side of the fuchsia column closest to your thread.

To continue, go back up to where it says repeat from here and follow the instructions
below that point.

The top row always stays loose, so when you are done you need to sew it up like this:

You can use these instructions for any tubular herringbone project, just start with a set
of four beads in the base row for each 2 beads you want there to be in the final
circumference.

Jewel in the Lotus Beaded Necklace

A Beautiful Free Bead Pattern

I named this beaded necklace "The Jewel in the Lotus" because the shape of it is
reminiscent of the stylized lotus seen in Buddhist iconography. The finished piece is so
sparkly and beautiful in person plus it's quite easy to make!

To make this necklace you'll need a small clasp, one hank of size 11 2-cut beads in the
color of your choice (the necklace in the picture is done with transparent grey AB) and
the following Swarovski crystals in crystal AB: 1 10 mm round (5000), 1 8mm
bicone(5301), and 4 9x6mm teardrops(5500). Numbers in parentheses are links to the
corresponding page of the General Bead catalog.

Start by attaching one half of your clasp to one end of a doubled thread. String on as
many beads as you need to make a short necklace/loose choker (standard choker length
is 16 inches, standard princess length is 18 inches, but measure yours for best fit).
Attach the other end of your clasp. Arrange your work so far so that your needle and
thread are coming out of the left hand end. Fold the necklace in half to find the center.
count 50 beads from the center to the left. Mark this spot by sticking an extra needle
through the 50th bead or tying a bit of thread between the 50th and 51st beads. Now re-
enter the left end of the necklace and thread all the way down to the bead just before the
50th bead from the center. Now you are in position to add the first "petal."

Pick up 21 beads and go back through the second to the last bead. Now pick up 19 more
beads. Count 20 beads to the right from the bead you left in the main necklace loop.
Loop your thread over the main neck loop thread between the 20th and 21st beads and
go back down through the last 3 beads you added.
For the second loop pick up 18 beads and go up through the second to the last bead. Pick
up 19 beads. Count 20 beads to the right in the main neck loop from the last loop-over
and loop over the main thread between the 20th and 21st beads. Go back down through
the last 5 beads you added.

For the large central loop pick up 26 beads and go up through the second to the last
bead. Pick up 29 beads and count 20 beads to the right from the last loop-over. Loop
over the main thread between the 20th and 21st beads and go back down through the
last 5 beads you added.
For the 3rd small loop pick up 16 beads and go up through the 2nd to the last bead. Pick
up 19 beads. Skip 20 beads in the main loop and loop over the main thread between the
20th and 21st beads. Go down through the last 3 beads you added.

For the last loop pick up 18 beads and go up through the 2nd to last bead. Pick up 19
beads. Skip 20 beads in the main loop and re-enter the main loop through the 21st bead.
Continue through to the end of the main loop.

Loop through the clasp connector loop and re-enter the main necklace strand. Thread
through the necklace until you get to the middle of the first loop you come to. There are
20 beads between each end of each loop so your thread should be coming out from the
tenth bead from the beginning of the loop.

Pick up 2 seed beads, one teardrop and one more seed bead. Skip the last seed bead and
go up through the teardrops and the 2 seed beads. Re-enter the main neck loop through
the bead next to the one you originally left. Thread through until you get to the center of
the next loop. Add another dangle consisting of 2 seeds, one teardrop and 1 seed. Then
re-enter the main loop and thread through to the center of the middle loop. Pick up 2
seed beads, 1 large round crystal and one bicone crystal plus one more seed bead. Skip
the seed bead and go back up through the rest. Add dangles in the center of the
remaining 2 small loops to match the first two.
If at any point you run short of thread, thread a new needle and tie the end of the new
thread to the old thread at the base. Thread the rest of the old thread into the main loop
of the necklace and snip off the needle. Continue normally with the new thread. When
you reach the end of the necklace knot at the clasp then hide the end of your thread in
the main loop. When you are finished you can go back and weave the tail of the new
thread into the main strand to hide it.

~Emily Hackbarth

The Easy and Elegant Lariat Necklace

Free Bead Pattern for this Sparkling Design
I look at a lot of beaded jewelry but had not seen many beaded and Swarovski crystal Lariat
Necklaces, so when I literally dreamed one up of my own, I could hardly wait to get my hands
on the beads and crystals and start beading away.

I had seen something in a magazine similar to it and had passed it over, since it was a basic
chain and plain jump ring design. I thought it was interesting, but could not see it in beads, so
I left it in the magazine stack next to the recycle bin.

Early the next morning, when I should have been sleeping in, I awoke from a dream. In that
dream, I saw a beautiful, graceful beaded necklace made from size 15/0 beads, with a loop on
one end and a couple of bugle beads on the other, with some detail in between. It was a
beautiful piece. And I knew where I had seen it before, or at least seen the inspiration for it.

Naturally, I came leaping out of bed, and, without even coffee to sustain me, went on a mad
search through the recycle pile. Thankfully, I found it. Here's what you'll need to make one
for yourself:

2-3 yards Nymo "B", white

314 Matte Black size 14/0 Czech seed beads

111 Antique Silver size 14/0 Czech seed beads

2 - 5mm Bugle beads in black

2 - 3mm Swarovski Crystal - Diamond shape

1 - 7.5 x 5 mm Olive shaped clear Swarovski crystal

Beaded with a Crystal Accent

 Step 1: Start by threading a #13 beading needle with 2
yards of prepared Nymo. I prepare thread by stretching it
and then passing it over Thread Heaven.

Step 2: Make a single overhand knot in the thread.

Don't worry about how it looks, it will not be in the
finished product.

Step 3: String on 3 black size 14/0 beads, and then a

silver size 14/0 bead. Repeat four more times, until you
have a set of 5, beginning and ending with a set of black
beads.

Step 4: Push the beads up the thread about 3 inches, and pass your
needle back through all of the beads to make a circle. Look at the
close up picture above to see how it should look.

Step 5: Pull the circle tight and cut the knot off of the end of the thread. Tie an
overhand knot with the threads, then make two separate knots using the two loose
threads around the intact two threads. Secure this knot with a drop of clear nail polish.

Step 6: Make the length of the necklace using the same pattern, this time starting with
a silver bead, then the three black beads. The final length of the necklace should be
about 18 inches, so stop adding at about 16 or 17 inches.

Step 7: Once all the length is added, make your end "fob" piece. After the last silver
14/0 beads, string a black bugle bead, a 3mm clear crystal, a silver 14/0, a black 6mm
crystal, a silver 14/0, the olive shaped crystal, a silver 14/0, a black 6mm crystal, a
silver 14/0, a 3mm clear crystal, a silver 14/0 and a black bugle bead.

Step 8: Add one 14/0 silver, a black 14/0, a silver 14/0 and then pass the thread back
up through the black bugle, the clear crystal, the black crystal, the olive crystal, and so
on until you exit at the top of the first bugle bead.

Step 9: Tie the threads off around the main thread, making several small knots and
securing them with clear nail polish.

Step 10: Wear your necklace by placing it around your neck with the loop in front,
passing the "fob" end through the loop, tightening it up a little bit and letting it hang. As
you can see in the close up on the right, above, the "fob" end will have enough weight to
keep itself down through the loop, and will keep the necklace from coming undone.

Enjoy this "rescued" necklace. It will make a delicate and pretty addition to your beady
wardrobe!

Largely Leftovers
The Multi Strand Menu

This beaded necklace pattern is another type of freeform, one that utilizes a wide variety
of beads and works them into a cohesive piece. Making beaded jewelry in this manner
helps expand our perceptions of shape and texture compatibility in finished projects.
I am one of those people who cannot throw anything away. Over time I, like most
beaders, have amassed a huge collection of just one or two of many different beads. I
had decided to work up this project, but was having problems organizing it. I was mulling
it over one evening while fixing dinner, and suddenly remembered my mother's method
of preparing and serving leftovers. The light bulb went on!

Mom would place whatever she had leftover into the cups of a muffin tin to reheat then
(this was way before microwaves) and serve it to us buffet style. This was a great way to
enchant five kids into eating leftovers, by the way! I decided that since my beads were
leftovers, this method would work for them, too!

I placed the few beads of each color/shape/size/material in to its own paper muffin cup,
set them all on my workbench, and simply reached out and drew a bead or two at
random. I stopped my work and moved the cups around from time to time, so that my
hands would not get into the habit of falling to the same cups over and over. I made up
some rules, such as adding 3 of the same seed bead if that's what I drew, and putting
the bead back if I accidentally drew from the same cup twice. I could not see into the
cups, so it made the selection really random.

Like most projects of the freeform type, the instructions are pretty basic. Here's what
you need to get started:

Spool of Soft-Flex or Beadalon wire

Crimp Beads, two for each strand, plus four more

Bead Caps, to fit over as many strands as you use. I used the Cone #1, item #COB001,
from General Bead.

Lobster Claw and Split Ring As many different bead types and shades, in a similar color
family, as you want to use. Don't worry about exact quantities. In this piece I used
round, chip and oval crystals, freshwater pearls in two colors, size 11/0 seed beads in
several colors and finishes, glass pony beads, bugles, silver bugles, round silver beads
and more.

1. Start by stringing your first strand onto the wire, while it remains on the spool. When
you have reached the length you want, add a crimp and pass the wire back through,
leaving a 2mm loop. Close the crimp bead.

2. Turn the wire and cut it from the spool. Add a crimp bead and pass the cut end back
through the crimp, again leaving a 2 mm loop. Close the crimp bead.

3. Continue making strands until you have as many as you want, or you run out of
beads, whichever comes first! This necklace used nine strands.

4. Using the wire on the spool, place a crimp bead on it and pass it through all of the
loops on one end of the strands. Pass the end throught the crimp bead again, and pull it
down, so that it gathers all of the strands together. remove the wire from the spool.
leaving about 8 inches. Close the crimp bead.

4. Repeat Step 4 on the other end of the strands.

5. Place an end cap onto each single wire piece. Add a few beads, then place a crimp
bead onto the wire. Pass the wire through the loop on the Lobster claw and back through
the crimp. Close the crimp bead. 6. Repeat on the other side, using a split loop in place
of the lobster claw. The fun of this necklace is in the construction of the individual
strands. Don't try to keep the strands the exact same length, but let them vary a bit. Let
yourself go a bit, do as many or as few strands as you like. Have fun, and take your time
making this. If you spend too much time playing with beads and forget to fix dinner,
don't worry, serve leftovers tonight!

The Winter Storm Necklace

Free Bead Necklace Pattern
I adore pearls and semi-precious stones and design lots of different pieces with them. This
pattern is one of my favorite Wintertime necklaces. It reminds me of a stormy day and a sky
full of different clouds. The play of light in the labradorites always makes me think of the
colors of rain and the light on the bottom of rainclouds.

This necklace is easy to make and I get compliments from both rain lovers (like me) and sun
worshippers, alike.

Here's what you'll need to make your own:

22 5mm Labradorites (these are faceted, but the rondell-shaped ones work well, too)

23 5mm (approx.) Potato shaped (side drilled) Freshwater Pearls

46 2mm (approx - the really tiny ones) Freshwater Pearls

96 1mm Sterling Silver round beads

24 inches Beading Wire. Soft Flex is a good choice, as is C-Flex from Caravan Beads and
AccuFlex from Fire Mountain Gems)

1 Sterling Silver (optional) 2 part Clasp (like the one used for traditional pearl strands)

Crimping Tool and silver Crimp Beads

Step 1: I like to bead my pieces right on to the spool of wire, and

then do my cutting when I'm done. I find that by doing this, I end
up wasting less wire than if I cut it when I start. Start by stringing
on 3 1mm sterling silver beads.

Step 2: Add a 2mm pearl, followed by another 1mm round

sterling silver bead. Follow this with a 5mm pearl, a silver bead, a
2mm pearl, and a silver bead, then a labradorite. The pearl
pattern begins again after the addition of the labradorite.

The pattern is this: silver, small pearl, silver, large pearl, silver,
small pearl, silver, labradorite, silver small pear, etc. Continue in
this pattern until all beads are used.

Step 3: When you complete the pattern, double check the strand
to make sure there are no pattern errors. Make any adjustments,
as necessary.

Step 4: You are ready to add your clasp. Do not cut your wire
yet. At the free end of the wire, add a crimp bead, one side of your
clasp, and then pass the wire end back through the crimp and the
three silver beads. Pull the wire through, leaving a small loop at
the end holding the clasp. Close the crimp bead using the inside
jaw of your crimp pliers to bend the crimp bead, then use the
outside jaw to squash it together, making a small and smooth
crimp.

Step 5: Now you are ready to close the other end. Check your
clasps BEFORE you put them on the necklace (trust me - do as I
say, not as I have done) to make sure they open and close
properly. Cut the wire, leaving a tail of about 3 to 5 inches to work
with. Carefully pick the strand up by the cut end of wire, making
sure that the beads all slide down to the crimped end. Make sure
the wire that you trimmed is tucked in to the beads at the other
end. Make any adjustments as necessary. Repeat the steps for
adding a clasp to this end of the work. Make sure that the tension
is snug, but not too tight, on the strand before you close the
crimp, or you may have will gaps or puckers in your finished piece.

Enjoy your beautiful Winter Storm necklace. I bet you'll get many
compliments on it!

Elegant Netted Bead Collar

Beaded with size 11/0 Beads
This content created by Emily Hackbarth

This complex looking, elegant netted bead collar uses size 11/0 seed beads and is
actually quite easy to make. It's really just a matter of counting, and once you get going,
you don't have to count any higher than 22! (g) Can't you just see it adorning the neck
of your favorite little (or big!) girl's velvet Christmas dress?

To begin, pick up 60 size 11 beads in a color of your choice. I used AB transparent teal in
the necklace pictured. Counting from the end, go back up through the 29th and 30th
beads. They are marked on the diagram in pink.

Now pick up ten, skip ten, and go through the 11th and 12th.

Then pick up 8 and skip 8. Go through the 9th and 10th.

Pick up 6, skip 6, and go through the last two.

Now we are going to change directions. Pick up 6. Skip four beads from where your
thread is coming out and go through the 5th and 6th.
Pick up 6, skip 6 and go through the next two.

Skip 10, pick up 10, go through the next two.

Same as the last step. Skip 10, pick up 10, go through the next two.

Pick up 22 and go up through the 5th and 6th of the beads you added in the previous
step.

Beginning with the step just completed, the sequence of stitches repeats. Going left, the
sequence is 22 (just completed), 10, 8, 6. Going right, it's 6, 6, 10, 10. Simply continue
going back and forth adding rows until it's big enough.

This pattern can be used to make a necklace or a collar. For a necklace, simply add a
clasp. For a collar, you could either sew the work directly to a garment, or add a series of
hooks and eyes to both the collar and the garment. That way you could wash the
garment separately from the beadwork.
A neat variation would be to fade from one color to another from top to bottom. I would
go from light to dark, but it's up to you! I'm sure you can come up with some other great
variations. I'd love to hear about them if you do. Have fun!

Bead A Simple Flat Herringbone Choker

by Emily Hackbarth

I think this bead necklace has kind of an Egyptian ethnic/elegant feel to it. It works up
quickly and I think you will be pleased with the results. The flat herringbone weave gives
it a different (and I think more interesting) texture than you usually see in necklaces of
this type.

What You'll Need

Seed beads in matte black and bronze lined clear. I used the new small cube
shaped beads. I don't know what they are calling these size-wise, but they are not
much bigger than a regular size 11 Japanese seed bead. Feel free to use regular
seed beads instead.
Black size A Nymo or equivalent.
One string of black dagger beads.
One package of tiny teardrops in red with gold lustre (these can be tiny tims,
magatamas, etc.)
Clasp of your choice.
Size 12 or 13 beading needle.

To begin, pick up 3 black beads and tie them in a circle. Go through the first bead in the
circle and pick up two more black beads. Orient you work so that your thread is pointing
down. Go down through the bead your thread is coming out of and up through the first
bead you added.

Now pick up two more black beads and go up through the bead your thread is coming
out of and down through the second bead you added. The idea here is to create a base
row much like that of brick stitch but with a picot bead above the spot where each set of
two beads meets. If you like you can use a bronze bead for every fifth picot. Continue
adding beads to this base until you reach a length that is comfortable for you. Make sure
to end with an even number of beads in the base row.
Add one side of your clasp to the last bead in the row, secure and snip your thread and
begin a new one. The new thread should be coming out of the bottom of the last non-
picot bead in the base row. Pick up two bronze beads and go up through the next bead to
the left in the base row. Now thread down through the bead next door to get your thread
into position for the next stitch. Each stitch is done the same way, pick up two beads, go
up through the next bead in the base row and down through the bead next to that.
Continue adding beads in this manner until you reach the end of the row.

To begin the second row, go down through the last bead you added. Pick up two bronze
beads and go up through the second bead in the previous row and down through the
third. This is the same as the row before.

If you were to continue adding rows in the manner described above you would be doing
my version of flat herringbone weave. For this row though we are going to do something
a little different. The first step is the same, go down through the last bead you added.
Pick up two beads and go up through the second bead in the previous row and the bead
directly above it. This is the part that's different, for normal herringbone, you would only
go up through the first bead in the second column not both but we want the columns to
separate a little bit. Now go down through the two bronze beads in the third column.
Continue stitching in this manner until you reach the end of the row. When you get to the
last stitch continue up through the black bead at the top of the column.
Now we need to add the drops. Skip the black bead your thread is coming out of and go
down through the 3 bronze beads below. Pick up a tiny teardrop and go up through the
second column of three bronze beads. Go down through the third column and pick up a
dagger. Now go up through the fourth column of 3 bronze beads. Continue adding drops
this way alternating a tiny tim with a dagger until you reach the end of the row. Secure
your thread, snip, and you are done! :-)

Sleek and Sophisticated

Wrapped Loops Necklace

Wrapped loops are the secret to making this simple and stunning beaded necklace.

This is a very elegant necklace. A friend of mine once said of this piece "you must feel
like you're wearing the moon around your neck"! It is lovely, and it does have that feel to
it. They are simple glass beads, with an opalescent quality to them, a kind of cloudy milk
glass. This design will lend itself well to any interesting bead that will hold its own,
without other embellishment. Here's what you need to make your own:

Approx. 60" Sterling Silver wire, or silver colored wire 23 10mm Glass Beads 8mm Split
Ring 10mm Lobster Claw clasp 1. Cut a piece of wire approx. 3 1/2 inches long. Using
the How To Instructions, make one side of the wire a wrapped loop, placing the split ring
onto the loop before closing it.

2. Add the 10mm glass bead, and wrap a loop at the other end.

3. Continue making wrapped loops, but be sure to slip the wire through one loop on the
previous link, before twisting it closed.

4. When completed, add the lobster claw to the final wrapped loop.

Now you can make wrapped loops with just about any kind of bead! Longer beads, larger
beads and even seed beads work very well with this technique. It is also great for making
a simple pair of earrings. Just make the wrapped loop on a head pin, and attach it to an
ear wire. Enjoy this fast and easy method of beadwork.
Square Stitch Tube Necklace
Great Use for Leftover Seed Beads

This necklace is a great way to use up small amounts of leftover beads. My secret shame
is a zip-lock baggie full of mixed up seed beads that I'm too lazy to separate. I had to
use them for something or be forever guilty. Of course once the necklace was finished
the bag was almost as full as it was before! Oh well, at least I got a great necklace out of
it. I get tons of compliments on it every time I wear it. It's easy to make, if a little time
consuming. Best of all, this necklace is perfectly suitable for either a man or a woman.

What you'll need:

Size 12 beading needle

Size 0 Nymo beading thread
Lobster claw clasp
Beeswax or Thread Heaven
A small amount of as many colors as you want to use. The fewer colors
you use, the more of each you'll need.

I don't know if you can tell from the picture or not, but the sequence of colors repeats.
This isn't absolutely necessary, but I think it gives the necklace at least a semblance of
order. One thing I've noticed is that if you're going for a funky colorful look, you need to
use plenty of red. I know this sounds strange, but it's true, trust me. I also used two
rows of each color at a time. I wanted to give each color a chance to show clearly. I like
to use a thin thread and double it for strength.

To start, pick up ten blue beads. Tie a square knot to form a circle. Thread your needle
through the first bead in the direction your thread is going. This is semi-important
because forcing your thread to go backwards can leave a little loop behind. It's always
good to go with the flow unless you have a good reason not to.

Pick up a yellow bead to start your second row. As I mentioned, I used two rows of each
color before going on to a new color. In the diagram I used a second color for the second
row in order to make it easier to explain. Thread your needle through the back of the
blue bead your thread is coming out of and continue through the next two blue beads in
the base row.

Pick up another yellow bead and repeat four times. Essentially you are adding a yellow
bead on top of every other blue bead in the base row. When you add the fifth yellow
bead only thread through the first bead following it so that your thread is coming out of
the blue bead next to where you added the first yellow bead. Bring your needle up and
go through the first yellow bead you added.

Now you are ready to fill in the spaces in the second row. Pick up a yellow bead and
thread your needle though the next yellow bead in the row. Continue around the circle
filling in each space until your thread is once again coming out of the first yellow bead.
Pull your thread taught so that the second row is standing up straight on top of the first
row.

Keen, huh? Each subsequent row is built in the same manner as the second row.
Continue adding rows until the necklace fits comfortably around your neck. (This could
take a while. :-) I made mine long enough to hang down several inches, but I think it
would also make a rather nice choker. I finished each end with one full row of black and
one half row. Meaning I threaded through the five beads of the second black row without
filling in the spaces. This tapers the ends and closes off the holes. To add a clasp, pick up
three beads, the claw half of your clasp, and 3 more beads. Go through the bead directly
across from the bead you came out of and go back through the beads and clasp. Repeat
until you can't get the needle through again and weave back into the necklace to secure
it. Do the same thing with a jump ring on the other end, and you're done!

Vivid Neckpiece

Dateline: 07/13/99

Print Page
This necklace is a real headturner! Of course some of the head turners might be thinking, "My
god that's loud!" lol but I am a loud sort of gal so I don't mind. :-) As always you may feel
free to change the colors if they don't suit you. As pictured this piece is not a pouch, it's a
single piece of flat peyote with a strap and fringe. If you like you can double the pattern and
make a tubular peyote pouch out of it but since I never seem to actually put anything in my
pouches anyway it sometimes feels right to go with a flat piece instead. You can find
instructions for flat odd-count peyote here.

Click on the thumbnail to find a large printable version of the pattern for this piece.

Here is a list of the colors I used:

opaque red
opaque red-orange
opaque black
opaque blue
opaque yellow-orange
opaque yellow
silver-lined green
turquoise-lined clear
All beads are size 11 seed beads.

The strap is a variation on the 8 bead daisy chain. To begin weave in a thread so that it is
coming out of the left side of the second bead at the top left of the peyote piece. Pick up 2
black beads and go through the 3rd and 2nd beads in the piece from right to left. Then go
through the two black beads again from left to right.

Now pick up 6 black beads and go through the first of two beads you added originally again
from left to right. This should make a small circle of beads.

Now pick up one black bead and go through the bead at the top right of the circle from left to
right. You should now have one all black daisy.

Now pick up 14 more black beads and go through the two top beads of the daisy from left to
right.
Thread through the first 8 of the 14 beads you added to position your thread to make the
second daisy. The second daisy is made the same way as the first except it starts from the
opposite side. Pick up six black beads, go through the bead at the top right of the loop below
from right to left. Then pick up one bead and go through the top left bead of the daisy from
right to left. Keep alternating daisies and big loops until the strap is a long as you want it
ending with a daisy. Connect it to the other side of the peyote piece by looping through the
two turquoise beads and the bottom two beads of the last daisy then through the 2 turquoise
beads again. Weave your thread into the piece to secure it.

To add the fringe weave a thread in so that it is coming out of the right side of the first bead
on the bottom left of the piece. String on ten black beads, 3 red-orange, 3 blue, 3 yellow-
orange, 3 yellow and 3 green. Then skip the 3 green beads and go back up through the rest.
Re-enter the bead you left from left to right and continue through the next bead to the right.
Repeat this sequence for each bead along the bottom edge of the piece except for the 5 beads
in the center of the pattern. The 5 fringes in the center are made the same way but with
different colors. Continue the first vertical red stripe with a fringe of 22 red beads and 3
turquoise. Then do one of 22 turquoise beads and 3 red. For the center fringe use 1 turquoise,
20 black, 1 turquoise, 3 black. Then do another turquoise fringe, then a red one. Then go back
to the regular sequence. Have fun!
If you have any questions or comments about this feature, please post them on
my bulletin board so everyone can benefit from the answers, thanks!

Mandala Stitch

Dateline: 06/22/98

Mandala stitch, or what I sometimes call "complex netting" is one of my favorite ways to
work. I call it complex not because it is difficult to do, but because its thread path is ever
changing and infinitely flexible. The purpose of this project is to give you a chance to explore
some of the possible thread paths and get an idea of the possibilities inherent in this wonderful
technique.

The doily that these instructions make is quite small and probably not terribly useful, it's
intended mostly as a learning experience. Feel free to expand or alter it in any way you
choose. You can use this stitch to make doilies, table cloths, ornaments, earrings, and intricate
wraps for just about anything. It doesn't have to be round, try a square and make an amulet
bag out of it (you might want to line it with silk or something similar.)
As you work, pay attention to how changes in the direction of the thread path alter the shapes
created.

In this little doily I used copper-lined clear, silver-lined fuchsia, ab blue charlottes, ab pink,
size 14 clear yellow, and silver-lined ab teal seed beads.

Start by tying 16 copper beads in a circle. Go through the bead just ahead of the knot. Pick up
3 fuchsia beads and go through the back of the copper bead your thread is coming out of to
make a little triangle. Continue forward through the next 4 copper beads and add another
triangle of fuchsia beads. Continue around the circle adding two more triangles in the same
manner.

After you complete the 4th triangle, continue through the next two copper beads after the one
you attached your 4th triangle to. Pick up 10 copper beads and go back through the 4th from
the end. Look at this as the left side and top of your first point. Pick up 6 more copper beads
and go through the fourth bead over in the ring from the bead you left to begin the point. Now
go back up through the 6th bead.

Before we continue, please examine your point. Note that there are 6 beads in each side and 4
beads that form the diamond shaped tip at the top. The key to understanding this particular
kind of point is to realize that once you have completed the first point, you have all the
information you need to complete the round. Each additional step is a matter of noting what
parts of the point you are about to create are already in place, and which need to be added to
complete the section of the point you are working on. Each point is made in two parts, the left
side and point, and then the right side.

To begin the second point, note that the bead you just went up through is shared between the
first and second points, thus the first bead in your second point is already in place. So count
the remaining beads in the left side and tip of the first point (you should come up with 9). Go
back through the 4th from the end to form the tip. Now count the beads in the right side of the
point (still 6! (g)). So pick up 6 and count the beads in the ring between the two side of the
point. Three, right? So skip 3 and go through the fourth bead in the ring from the bead the left
side is attached to. Go up through the last bead you added and continue from there.

One more tricky part. When you get to the last point you have to connect it to the first point,
right? So don't forget about the shared bead between the last point and the first one when
counting how many beads to add.
After you've come up through the first bead in the first point, continue up through the next
three beads in the right side of the last point. Pick up 4 blue beads, one fuchsia, and one more
blue. Go back through the 4th bead from the end to form the tip. Then pick up two more blue
beads to match the two on the left side. Now go down through the bead in the left side of the
first copper point that corresponds to the bead you left in the last point. Continue down
through the side and re-enter the ring through the back of the ring bead that you originally
left. Your goal is to keep the thread path symmetrical. Complete the round by adding a blue
point between each set of copper points for a total of four.

Now let's add some daisies! :-) When you complete your final blue point, thread through the
ring to the right and up through the right side of the copper point, around the tip and out
through the right side of the top bead. Pick up 2 green "stem" beads, 4 pink petal beads and
one yellow center bead. Go back through the first pink bead and pull tight.

Pick up two more pink petal beads and go through the fourth pink bead you added in the
previous step to complete the daisy. Then pick up two more green stem beads and go through
the fuchsia bead at the top of the blue point to the right. Continue around the circle adding a
daisy between each set of points.
After you've added the last daisy, continue through the two green beads to the right of the tip
bead you entered. Pick up 10 green beads and go back through the second to the last. Pick up
8 more green beads to match the first side. Re-enter through the left side of the first of the two
green beads you added at the end of your last daisy. Continue through the next four beads and
the first pink petal bead of the next daisy.

Pick up one green bead, one dagger and another green seed. Go forward through the third
petal bead and continue through the 2 green beads next to it, the tip bead of the point below
and the next two green beads to get into position to add the next big green point as described
in the previous paragraph. Complete the round (and the project) by alternating between
daggers and points for a total of 8 each.

I hope that this project has given you enough information to begin experimenting with this
stitch. Add and remove beads to change the shape of points, make up new thread paths, go
wild! No need to plan the next row until you get to it, just improvise as you go along.
Examine the shape of the spaces you've created and elaborate on them. Make sure you begin
with an even number of beads in your base ring, other than that, there are no rules! :-)

A New Leaf? My Foot!

Dateline: 05/07/00

I love Daisy Chains, but I always felt that they looked a little bare. I thought they would look
pretty cool with a little leaf on the stem. I tried a few things, such as branched fringe and
loops made of beads, but nothing really worked. Then it came to me! DAGGER BEADS!!!
But, most of the ones I saw were too big, and overwhelmed the design. So, when I found
these little dagger beads at a recent Gem Faire, I just about jumped for joy!! I had finaly found
my little leaves! I think you'll agree that this little anklet is just as cute as can be! Here's what
you'll need to make one of your own:

10 - 10mm long Transparent Green Dagger Beads

60 - Size 6/0 White Beads

10 - Size 6/0 Orange with Red Stripe Beads

60 - Size 8/0 Transparent Green Beads

#12 Beading needle

White Nymo D Thread

2 - Gold colored Clamshell knot covers

1 - Gold colored Lobster Claw

1 - Gold colored Split Ring

527 brand or E6000 brand Adhesive

Beeswax Chainnose Pliers

Before beginning, please note that this will make a very long (10 inch) anklet. Each set of
daisy and stem equal about 1 inch, so you can shorten or lengthen it by adding or subtracting
one set of daisy/stem for each inch.
1. Begin by threading your beading needle with about 4 feet of Nymo D thread. We will be
working with a doubled thread, so this will be a bit easier to manange than it sounds. Stretch
the thread well and pss it over the beeswax.

2. Knot the end of the thread and place one of the clamshells on the needle, shell opening out,
away from the needle. Place it over the knot and add a dab of glue. Close the clamshell with
the chainnose pliers.

3. Add 4 transparent green beads to the thread, then add 1 transparent green Dagger bead, and
2 more transparent green beads.

4. Add 4 white beads, and 1 orange/red stripe bead. Pass the thread through the first white
bead closest to the last green bead strung, pointing the needle back in the direction from
which it came. Pull snug.

5. Add 2 white beads to the thread, and pass the needle through the 4th white bead added in
Step 4. This will be the bead closest to the red/orange bead.

6. Repeat from Step 3 until your chain reaches the length desired.

7. Add the other clamshell to the end of the thread, shell opening toward the needle.

8. Make a large knot very close to the clamshell, so that the thread holds tight and add a drop
of 527 glue. Alternately, if you have trouble getting the knot close enough to the clamshell,
cut the thread off of the needle, add a single size 11/0 bead to one of the threads, and tie
several overhand knots around the Size 11/0 bead. Add glue to the knot and the Size 11/0
bead.

9. Close the clamshell with your chainnose pliers and trim the threads.

10. Add the Lobster Claw to one clamshell end, and the Split Ring to the other.

Enjoy your "New Leaf" Daisy Chain anklet. Try using yellow beads for the flower petals with
a dark brown center bead, to make a sunflower. Or a dark purple center with light blue petals
for a Morning Glory vine! Make them a bit shorter for wear as a bracelet! Pretty cute