July31,201510:20am

Dabbawalas:Mumbaislunchboxcarriers
DavidPillingandAvantikaChilkoti

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Everyday,anarmyofdabbawalasdelivers130,000lunchestoMumbaisofficeworkers.What
canthismealsonwheelsmodelteachbigbusinessandcanitsurviveinthedigitalage?

NishantShukla

DabbawalaswaitwithtiffintinsontheplatformatMumbaisSantacruzstation.Theyrelyontrains,bicycles,cartsand
motorbikestomaketheirdeliveriesacrossthecongestedcity

A midthepressofpeoplehuffingupthesteepstonestepsofMumbaisSantacruzrailwaystationintherisingmorningheat,
onlyDashratKedarihasa7ftlongwoodencratewobblingprecariouslyonhishead.Thatsnottheextentofhisexertion.
Ontheluridredcrate,fencedinbyametalrim,are30orsosilvertins,sidesdentedandlidsclatteringunderthestrainofthe
ascent.

DressedinastarchedwhiteGandhicap,cottonshirt,lightweighttrousersandleathersandals,Kedariisoneofanarmyof
5,000lunchboxcarrierswhokeeptheofficeworkersofIndiasMaximumCitysuppliedwithhomecookedfood.Knownas
dabbawalas,afterthe130,000dabbasormetaltiffinboxesthattheylugbetweenhomeandofficeeachday,Kedariand
hisfellowportershavebeenpartofthefabricofthisfrenzied,grimeriddenmetropolisofdreamsfor125years.

Kedari,now47,hasbeenadabbawalaformorethanthreedecades.Manyofthechildrenfromhisvillage,aboutfourhours
drivefromMumbai,becomedabbawalas,especiallythosewithlimitededucation.Forwhatisessentiallymenialwork,the
dabbawalasearn,byIndianstandards,adecentwageofsomeRs12,000,or$200,amonth.Organisedinacooperative,they
enjoyjobsecurityandcommandrespectinthistoughestofIndiancities.

Kedaristartedskippingschoolbeforehewas10.SometimesIdgoandsometimesIwouldnt,hesays,matteroffactly.
Mostly,heplayedaroundinthefieldswherehisparentscultivatedasubsistencesizedplotofrice,milletandonions.
Occasionally,hedmakeatriptothebrightlightsofMumbaitofollowhiselderbrotheronhisdabbawalaround.Helearntto
rideabike,thestockintradeofthedabbawala.IusedtohangoutwithhiminChurchgate,MarineLines,Kedarisays,
referringtotheglamorousareasinthewealthysouthofthecity.Mybrotherdidit,thatswhyIdidit,headdsofhiseventual
graduation,aged16,totheprofession.Thisjobmakesmefeelgood.Feedingpeopleisaworthwhileoccupation.

Studiedbyconsultantsandbusinessschoolsforthesecretsoftheirproclaimednearflawlessefficiency,thedabbawalashave
beenfetedbyBritishroyals(PrinceCharles)andtitansofindustry(RichardBranson)alike.EvenFedEx,whichsupposedly
knowssomethingaboutlogistics,haspaidthemavisit.In2010,theHarvardBusinessReviewpublishedastudyofthe
dabbawalasystementitledOnTimeDelivery,EveryTime.Init,theauthorsassertedthatthedabbawalasoperatetoSix
Sigmastandardseventhoughtheyhavefewspecialskills,chargeaminimalfee(around$10$13amonth)andusenoIT.

SixSigma,ameasurementstandarddevelopedbyMotorolainthe1980sandnowusedby,amongotherorganisations,General
ElectricandtheBritishdefencecontractorBAESystems,isdefinedas3.4defectiveparts(errors)permillionopportunities.
Thedabbawalasconductsome260,000transactionsdaily130,000boxesaredeliveredtoofficeseverymorningand130,000
arereturnedhomeeveryafternoonsixdaysaweek,51weeksayear.Thatsnearly80millionannualdeliveries.TomeetSix
Sigmasexactingstandards,thatmeansfewerthan300dabbasmustgoastrayeachyear.Amongtheexplanationsforsuch
supposedaccuracy,theHarvardBusinessReviewhonedinonfour:organisationprocessworkerempowerment(the
dabbawalassettheirownpricesandfindtheirowncustomers)andculture(theyhailfromthesameclusterofvillagesand
haveasharedreligionandlanguage).

Thedabbawalasevenfeaturedina2013film,TheLunchbox,whoselovestoryhingesonsomethingtheentiredabbawala
systemisdesignedtoavoid:amistake.Kedarihadaminorroleinasceneinwhichthedabbawalaschantareligioussong.Yet
thefocusonanerrorhasnotendearedthefilmtoitsprotagonists.Kedarihasntbotheredtoseeit.RaghunathMedge,
presidentoftheNutanMumbaiTiffinBoxSuppliersAssociation,dismissesitasamasalamovie,aspicedupBollywood
invention.

NishantShukla

DashratKedaricarriestiffinboxesdownthestairsatSantacruzstation

...

Thismorning,asonmostdays,Kedaristartedat8am,whenhelefthisoneroomhomesharedwithhiswifeandtwo
childreninthesprawlingworkingclassdistrictofJogeshwari.Anhourlater,hehadbegunhisregularroute,pickingup
boxesfrommiddleclassresidentsinAndheriWest,readyforlunchtimedeliverytotheofficeblocksthatseemtospringup
dailyinthisferventlycommercialcityof20millionpeople.Themorningroundishectic.Pickupsateachresidencearelimited
to30seconds,aminutetops.IfKedariarriveslate,orifthedabbaisnotreadyforcollection,thewholetimetablecancareen
intochaos.Ateachdoor,heringsthebelland,afterabriefpause,someoneemergeswithatiffinboxpackedwithahome
cookedlunchreadyforcollectiontheboxhasseveralstackedmetalcompartmentstokeeptheflavoursseparate.

Mostofthefamilieswhousethedabbawalaservicehaveparticulardietaryrequirements.Parsis,descendantsofZoroastrians
fromIran,andGujaratisfromthestatethatneighboursMaharashtra,ofwhichMumbaiisthecapital,havedistinctivecuisines.
ThereareHinduswhodonteatbeef,andMuslimswhodonttouchpork.Therearethosewhodonteatmeat(veg)andthose
whodo(nonveg).Onereasonforthedabbawalaslegendaryaccuracymaybethehighcostintermsofreligiousand
culturaloffencethatmixinguporderswouldentail.SeveralofKedariscustomersareJains,whosestrictdietevenexcludes
onions,potatoesandgarlic.(SomeJainswearamasktoensuretheydontswallowinsectsbymistake.)Wearepure,pure
vegetarian,saysasmilingladyatthedoorofherapartment,handingoveratiffin.Thelunchboxshehaspreparedcontains
curriedvegetables,dal,riceandfreshlymadechapattis.
 NishantShukla

Kedariandfellowdabbawalastakeafewmomentsrestintheluggagecompartmentofatrain

Dabbassafelycollected,Kedarilashesthemtothebackofhismotorbike.Thereareabout30inall.Thearrangementlooks
morethanalittleprecarious.Thelidofeachismarkedwithacodecombiningnumbers,lettersandcolours,asystemfor
identifyingthedeliveryaddressthathasevolvedbecausemanyofthedabbawalascantread.Itsajobfortheilliterate,says
Medge.Itsalotofhardwork.Theliteratearenouseinthisindustry.

Kedariisunusualinhavingamotorbike.Mostdabbawalashavestucktocartsorpushbikes,whichareeasytomanoeuvre
throughthenarrowlanesandcloggedtraffic.HesoonreachesAndherirailwaystation,whereotherdabbawalashavegathered.
Eachhasbroughttwodozenormoretiffinboxes,manyofthemwrappedinheatpreservingcovers,fromtheAndheri
neighbourhood.Thesearenowarranged,seeminglyhaphazardly,onthepavementoppositethestation.Allaroundisthe
tootingofmotorisedrickshawsandtheconfusionofcommuters.Thedabbawalasbusilysortthetinsintobatchesaccordingto
theircodes.Fewtiffinsarepickedupanddispatchedbyonedabbawalalikemanybiglogisticscompanies,thedabbawalas
operateahubandspokesystem.Mosttiffinsreachtheirdestinationviaseveralpairsofhands.

Bynow,Kedarihasarrangedhiscrate,whichwillgotoLowerParelfurtherdowntheline.
Tiffintinsrattlingonhishead,hemakesfortheplatformandboardsthetrainfor
Santacruz,whereheneedstochangeontoanotherline.Kedarihaulshisloadtothetopof
thestairsandroundsthecornerontoawalkwayrunningacrossthetracks.Inthebusy
thrumofanIndianstation,fewgivethesightofthedabbawalaandhiscareeringtiffin
boxesasecondglance.Halfwayalongthewalkway,tiledinblackandwhitesquaresand
blotchedwithredbetelnutspitlikeabloodsplatteredchessboard,Kedariheadsback
downastairwayontoanotherplatform.Hemarchespurposefullyalonguntilhereaches
anunmarkedspotintheglaringsun.Sweatslidesdownthebackofhisneck,thoughhe NishantShukla

professesnottofeeltheheat.WiththeaidofhiscompanionGaneshwhohassuddenly Tiffintins,or'dabbas'
appearedheheavesthegroaningcratetotheground.

Atrainshuntsintothestation.Passengersinthecrowdedcompartmentsleanoutofthedoorsevenbeforeitstops.Asithisses
toahalt,thesmallcarriagereservedforluggagestopsexactlyatthespotwhereKedarihassetdownhistiffinsontheplatform.
ThedabbawalasystemcouldnotfunctionifMumbaisextensivetrainnetworkdidnotwork,asitdoes,toahighlevelof
efficiency.Medgesaysthat,oftheSixSigmas,heawardstwotohisownorganisation,twotothebicycleandtwotothetrain.

Intheluggagecompartment,dabbawalassitcrossleggedonthefloor,tiffinboxespiledaroundthem.KedariandGaneshpull
theircrateintothecompartmentandsquatontheirhaunchesagainstatinnybluewall.Fanssitmotionlessinthestiltedair,
theirprotectivegrillsthickwithyearsofgrime.Crowscawnoisilyoutside.

Kedarisuddenlyleapstohisfeet.Pickingupasingletiffin,hepassesitthroughthe
windowtoadabbawalainanadjacenttrain.Laterheexplainsthathehas
calculatedthetiffinwillarriveatitsdestinationearlierbythisalternativeroute.
Althoughthedabbawalasworkinunitsofabout20,theyregularlyshuffleboxes
betweenteamsand,ratherlikeToyotaslegendaryassemblylineworkers,are
empoweredtotweakthingsintheinterestsofefficiency.Wedoiteveryday,
Kedariexplains.Werecogniseeachotherandknowwhereeachofusisheading.

Thetrainjerksfromtheplatform.Thecarriagesrattlepastthickvegetationand
higgledypiggledyhousescrammedupagainstthetracks.Alittlewaydownthe
line,thosewhoarenotinuredtoitsmellMahimCreekbeforetheyseeit.Ablack,
opensewer,chokedwithmangrovesandpoisonedbyindustrialeffluent,itis
teemingwithslumlife.

ThetrainpullsintoLowerParel,aformercottonmillcentrethatisnowhometo
manyofMumbaisnewestofficeblocks.KedariandGaneshmuscletheircrateoff
thetrain,alongtheplatform,upthestepsandoutontoabusyflyover.Thetiffins
areunloadedontopushbikes,whicharewaitingforthem,unattendedand
seeminglysafefromtheftthedabbawalassaytheirsystemreliesonthetrustand
respectofMumbaisresidents.TheyrelytoooncloseconnectionswithShivSena,a
proMarathiHindunationalistpartythathasdominatedMumbaipoliticsfortwo NishantShukla

decades.Ifthereisanyfightoranyproblemsayaparkingfineorastolen Deliveringbybike

bicycleShivSenaisinvariablyhelpful,explainsMedge.Inreturn,the
dabbawalasprovidealoyalvotingbloc.

...

NishantShukla

Kedaripusheshiscartagainstthetraffic

ThedabbawalashavealsobecomethesubjectofIndianacademicinquiry.DrPawanGAgrawalisnotamedicalpractitioner.
HeowestheDrinfrontofhisnametothePhDheearnedstudyinghowthedabbawalasoperate.(Bothhisfatherand
grandfatherweredabbawalasbutAgrawalhasmadeanicheforhimselfasadabbawalatheoretician.)His2010thesis,
supervisedbytheYashwantraoChavanMaharashtraOpenUniversity,isentitledAStudyofLogisticsandSupplyChain
ManagementofDabbawalainMumbai.AlthoughdabbawalasareuniquetoMumbaienabledbothbytheexcellenttrain
systemandbythecityslinearlayoutAgrawalsaystheyhavemuchtoteachotherbusinesses.WithaTEDtalktohisname,
Agrawalisnowaregularonthelecturecircuit,coachingmultinationalsinthetheoryandpracticeofdabbawalalogistics.Sir,
youtellmethenamethatcompanywehavespokento,hesays,reelingoffalistfromMicrosoftandTataConsultancyto
Capgemini.ItwasAgrawalwhointroducedthedabbawalastoVirginsboss,SirRichard.Iwastwodayswithhim.Hetravelled
withusintheluggagecompartment.

AgrawalholdsforthfromhisofficesattheAgrawalInstituteofManagement&Technology,thesmartestbuildingonthe
unpavedstreetinVikhroli,aresidentialsuburbtotheeastofthecity.Outsideonthestreet,boysareplayingcricket.Inside,the
officeissofiercelyairconditionedthattheheavilysugaredchaibroughttoguestsiscoldbythetimeitarrives.Agrawalsits
behindhisdesk,armsoutstretchedinawelcominggesture.Hehandsoverhiscard,whichlists,inadditiontohisPhD,somany
qualificationsandawardsthatitisconcertinaedintothreesectionstoaccommodatethemall.Ashelfbehindhimiscrammed
withplaques.

Agrawalhasaneat,pencilthinmoustache,aroundfaceandaninfectioussmile.ThereissomethingofaDickensiancharacter
abouthim.Askedtoexplaintheessenceofthedabbawalasystem,heslipsintoa20minutemonologue,brokenonlywhenhe
standsupfirsttoputonaGandhicap(bywayofaprop)andlatertoslamtwotiffintinsonthetable(ditto).Numberone.
Whatcanwelearnfromthem?heasks,asifaddressingalargeaudience.(Hisnumberingsystemiseccentrictosaytheleast,
andnumbertwoismentionedatleasthalfadozentimes.)Passion.Commitment.Dedication.Accuracy.Timemanagement.
Andveryimportant:customersatisfaction,hedeclares.Theybelieveworkisworship.Andnumbertwo,thecustomerisgod,
hesays,drawingoutthefinalwordasthoughlettingairfromaballoon.Supposeevenmyfatherisdying,hesayssuddenly,
bywayofexample.Iamworking.Iamdelivering.Igetthemessagemyfatherisdying.Iwillnotimmediatelyrushout.Iwill
adjustmyjob,adjustmytiffin.
Inhisbook,MastersofSupplyChainManagement,Agrawalsaysthedabbawalaservicebeganin1890whenaParsibanker
employedayoungmanfromnearPunetodeliveralunchboxfromhishometohisMumbaioffice.Slowlytheserviceexpanded
andmoredabbawalaswererecruitedfromvillagesnearPune.Thedabbawalastracedtheirancestrytosoldierswhofought
alongsidethe17thcenturywarriorkingChhatrapatiShivajiMaharaj,founderoftheMarathaempire.Formanyinmodernday
Maharashtra,ShivajiisstillrememberedasadefenderofHinduismagainstMughalinvasion,alegacythatresonatesinthe
religiouslychargedandsometimesviolentpoliticsofMumbai.ThatisonereasonthedabbawalassupportShivSena,aparty
thatbacksMarathirightsagainstwhattheypresentastheonslaughtofmigrantsfromotherpartsofIndia.ShivSenadoalot
fordabbawalas.Theystickupforus,saysKedari.

Forthedabbawalas,Shivajiisasourceofpridebutalsoareminderofhowfartheyhavefallen.AgrawalquotesShriSopan
Mare,presidentoftheTiffinBoxSuppliersAssociation,assaying,Todaywe,thedescendantsofsuchgreatwarriors,run
aroundwiththeloadof2530tiffinsonourheads.OureldersusedtocarryswordsinthenameofShivaji.

...

Customersofthedabbawalasalmostuniversallypraisetheservice.Buttheirtestimony
doesntquitegelwiththeideaofonlyafewerrorspermillion.ReemaKothari,whohas
useddabbawalastodeliveralunchboxtoherfinancierhusbandfor20years,saysher
tiffinwentmissingonce.Oncein20yearsisfine,thoughthedabbawalagotagood
scoldingfromus,shesays.Pressed,sheraisesherestimateofstraytiffinstoonceor
twicein20yearsandthenagaintoonceortwiceayear.Evenoncein20yearswould
beoneerrorperroughly12,250deliveries.UnlessKothariisjustunlucky,thatsafarcry
from3.4mistakespermillion.Agrawalisunmoved.Heevenupstheantebyquotinga
differentfigure:onemistakeper16million,andthenreacheshisdefinitiveconclusion.
Webelievethereisnotonemistake,hesaysemphatically.Theresnoerror.Because
errorishorror.

Hepausestolethiswordshoverintheair.Numbertwo.Thesepeopledonotknow
whethertheyareSixSigmaor10Sigma,hesaysofthedabbawalas.Thesepeopleare
workingforcustomersatisfaction.Theirserviceissorespected,hesays,thatmany NishantShukla

customersentrusttheirsalarytothetiffinboxratherthanriskthedangerofcarryingit DabawallasunloadabicycleatSantacruzstation
homeonthetrainthemselves.

LiketheHarvardBusinessReview,Agrawalemphasisescommunity.Ifthepeoplearenotgood,thesystemcancollapse.So
peopleareimportant.Becausetheyarefromthesamecommunity,thisisgood.Oneofthesystemspurportedstrengthsisthat
itismoreorlessaclosedshop.Manychildrenofdabbawalasfollowtheirparentsintothebusiness,makingitsomethingofa
professionalcaste.Thatgivespeoplefromoutsidethedabbawalacommunitiesalmostnochanceofbreakingin.Muslims,
Gujaratis,Parsis.Wellcarrydabbasforthem,saysKedari.Buttheycantdoourwork.

Agrawaldeniesdiscriminationbutsaysthedabbawalasowetheirsuccesstofactthattheyareatightknitcommunityoflike
mindedpeople.Haveyouheardthattherewasabombinthetiffin?heasksdramatically.No!Then,Haveyouheardthat
therewassomesmugglinginthetiffin?No!Why?Becausetheycare.Becausetheyare100percentdedicated.Iamnotagainst
Muslimsbutwearethesepeople,hesays,fingeringastringofwoodenbeadswornbyHindusaroundhisneck.Myfatherwas
adabbawala.Heworethischain.Andthepersonwhowearsthischainneverdrinks,heneversmokes,henevereatsnonveg,
healwaysobeysourelders.

Onequestionthedabbawalasstrugglewithiswhethertheirbusinesscansurvivethe
onslaughtofmodernity.Indiaisanationinflux,socially,culturallyandtechnologically.
Morewomenworkandsoarenotathometopreparefoodfortheirhusbands.Peopleeat
outmore.Theemergingmiddleclassesordertakeaway.Thedabbawalashavemostly
stuckresolutelytotheir125yearoldmodel.Newtechnologyisfortheliterate,says
Medge.Wedabbawalasdontknowmuchabouttechnology.

RishiKhiani,aserialentrepreneur,speaksadifferentlanguage.HisofficeisallnewIndia
swipecardsattheentrance,brightyoungthingsatopenplandesksandgreenteafor
guests.KhianihasrecentlyacquiredacompanycalledMealsonWheels,whichhehas
jazzedupwiththenameScootsyandkittedoutwithbrightlycolouredmotorbikes.His
deliverymen,whowillearnslightlymorethandabbawalas,arearmedwithAndroid
devicesandanappthatallowscustomerstofollowtheirordersontheirsmartphones.
TheyregivinguspingsbackonourCRM,saysKhiani,usingtheacronymforcustomer
relationshipmanagementtoolasheflipsthroughhisPowerPointpresentation.That
tellsuswhereanypersonisatanygiventime.Scootsywontjustdelivertakeawaysfrom
QSRs,hesays,meaningquickservicerestaurants.Itwillsoonbranchoutintoother NishantShukla

categoriesgroceries,flowers,electronicgoods.Itsmasspirational,hesays.Were Kedari,abouttostarthisreturnjourneywithempty
lunchboxes
goingtobetheUberforeverything.
Perhapssurprisingly,Khianireckonsthatthedabbawalas,foralltheirsuspicionofnewfangledways,canadaptandsurvive.
Theyareintrinsictothewaythiscityoperates,andtheonethingyourealwaysgoingtoneedisfood,hesays.Andwhatthe
dabbawalasprovideisaverycosteffectivewaytogetfoodoutthere.Indeed,socosteffectivethat,althoughKhianiis
launchingarival(ifmuchsmaller)deliveryservice,hisbusinesswillusethedabbawalasnetwork.OneofhisstartupsisRaw
Pressery,whichdeliversjuicecleanserstoitshealthconsciouscustomersthroughthedabbawalasystem.Thesameappliesto
anotherofhisservices,RevoFit,inwhichanutritionistcustomdesignslunchesforfinickyclients.Icanthaveareallyhigh
pricepoint,whichmeansthatrelyingonmyownlogisticsisntfeasible.

...

Thedabbawalashavetriedtoadaptinotherwaystoo.Theysometimesdeliverfliersorsamplesforcompanies,including
multinationalssuchasPepsiCo.InApril,Flipkart,IndiasAmazonequivalent,announcedatieupwiththedabbawalasforthe
deliveryofbooks,toysandotheritems.

AsmitaParelkar

KedariwithhisparentsattheirhousenearPune,Maharashtra

Suchattemptstomodernisenotwithstanding,thedabbawalascustomerbaseisstaticatbest.Longgonearethedayswhen
theydelivereddinneraswellasluncharoundthecity.Youngpeopleeatoutmore,sniffsMedge.Theyeatpizzaandburgers.
Nor,saysKedari,doesthedabbawalaprofessionholdthesameappealitoncedid.Factoriesareopeningupnearthe
dabbawalasvillages,givingyoungstersnewoptionsasloadersorsecurityguards.Weneverlearnttoreadandwritebutour
kidshavelearnt,sotheycanbesomethingmorethanjustadabbawala.

BynowKedariisonthefinalstretchofhismorningdelivery.Hesetsoff,cyclingfirsttotheLodhaBuilding,animposingoffice
blocknotfarfromthestation.Thereheuntiesafewoftheboxesandcarriesthemthroughthegrandishentrance.Dabbawalas
aresuchafamiliarsightthatthesecurityguarddoesntevenbothertolookupasKedarisidestepsthemetaldetector.Hegoes
uptothethirdflooranddropsoffsomeboxes,andthenuptotheseventh,wherehedeliversonemore.

FromthereitsontotheStarTVBuilding.Thelobby,allliquidcrystalscreensandstarsontheceiling,looksmorelikethe
entrancetoanightclubthananoffice.ThesearesomeofthebestaddressesinMumbai,yetKedaristrollsthroughthemasifhe
ownstheplace,deliveringthedabbasrighttothesecretarysdesk,orleavingthemoutsideinthecorridor.Inall,hemakes
aboutadozenstops.

Afewhourslater,hewillreturntopickuptheemptydabbasreadyforthereturnjourney.Ataround3pm,hefinallyhasthe
chancetoeathisowntiffin,preparedbyhiswifethatmorning.

BythetimeIgetmine,hesayswithashrug,itscold.

DavidPillingistheFTsAsiaeditorAvantikaChilkotiistheFTsIndonesiacorrespondent

Photographs:NishantShuklaAsmitaParelkar

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